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adventure<br />

where actions speak louder than words<br />

where actions speak louder than words<br />

ISSUE 236<br />

FEB/MAR 2023<br />

NZ $10.90 incl. GST<br />

NEW CALEDONIA,<br />

RAROTONGA,<br />

CANADA,<br />

ICELAND<br />

SPAIN,<br />

TAHITI,<br />

NIUE,<br />

USA<br />

TRAVEL<br />

ISSUE


TRAVEL<br />

ISSUE<br />

<strong>#236</strong><br />

the human touch<br />

It's all about the people you meet - <strong>Adventure</strong> Magazine's<br />

"away team" in Tahiti<br />

I have been fortunate enough to have<br />

travelled my whole life, with my family<br />

as a child and as an adult. It has always<br />

been a significant part of my work, firstly<br />

surfing, then diving, then photography,<br />

then a mixture of all of that was simply an<br />

adventure.<br />

People often ask ‘what is the best, the<br />

most beautiful place you have ever been?’<br />

There is an extensive list of amazing and<br />

unique places that this job has taken us<br />

to. Right now, as I am writing this, I am in<br />

Rarotonga on the foreshore under a palm<br />

tree; the sky is blue and clear, the trade<br />

winds warm around 15 knots, and here<br />

the reef edge is close to the beach, so we<br />

have crashing waves, it’s impressive.<br />

But there are a lot of equally beautiful<br />

places in the world, all very different;<br />

some hot, some cold, some green, some<br />

desolate, but what is it that makes them<br />

unique? The simple answer is ‘people’.<br />

I have stayed at some stunning resorts<br />

and could not wait to leave because the<br />

people were just not …. Well, not nice.<br />

And I have stayed at resorts like Friendly<br />

Bungalows on Tanna in Vanuatu, where<br />

the lady who met us had no teeth but a<br />

very gummy smile, the rooms were made<br />

entirely of natural materials, and the only<br />

manufactured addition was the toilet.<br />

As we arrived at our room, our toothless<br />

guide stamped on the veranda floor, and<br />

we heard scuttling, and she smiled and<br />

whispered, ‘Micky Mouse’. She asked us<br />

if we would like crayfish for dinner, and<br />

of course, we did. We sat on handmade<br />

chairs at a handmade table eating freshly<br />

caught crayfish, which had been cooked<br />

to perfection, but had been cut up into<br />

tiny little pieces, as had all the vegetables<br />

(remember, the lady had no teeth!)<br />

While we were at dinner, a family of four<br />

adults arrived from France, obviously<br />

upset and demanding to be taken to<br />

another resort as this was not up to<br />

their standard. If they had given it just<br />

a few moments, they would have seen<br />

how utterly remarkable and unique the<br />

place was; the people, the setting, the<br />

jungle, and the black sand beach, all in<br />

the shadow of Yasur volcano. The rooms<br />

were comfortable and clean, the food –<br />

(although cut up small) was delicious,<br />

and the people could not have been more<br />

friendly and welcoming.<br />

That is what makes somewhere special;<br />

not the five stars on the review, not the<br />

fluffy towels, or Sky TV, or a well-stocked<br />

mini-bar (but that can help.) What makes<br />

any destination, any resort, and any<br />

holiday special is the people.<br />

It’s less about the white sand beach and<br />

more about the smiling face, it is less<br />

about the scenery but more about those<br />

you meet. A memorable travel experience<br />

is one with that human touch, that<br />

interaction.<br />

Lastly, travel is a two-way street. As we<br />

branch out around the world and we meet<br />

people who are caring and welcoming,<br />

we, too, have a responsibility to be<br />

welcoming. As the world shares its magic<br />

with us as we travel, so we need to be as<br />

enthusiastic and welcoming to those who<br />

arrive on our shores.<br />

We live in a fantastic country, and it is no<br />

wonder so many people want to come<br />

here and experience what we have, but<br />

remember, it’s the people that make it<br />

unique, and that’s where we can all play<br />

our own small part!<br />

Steve Dickinson - Editor<br />

your <strong>Adventure</strong> starts with Us<br />

ZERO ALCOHOL.<br />

ZERO BULLSH*T<br />

DCBREWING.CO.NZ<br />

23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz


Images by Mike Dawson<br />

YOUNG NEW ZEALAND AND NORWEGIAN EXPLORERS COMPLETE EPIC JOURNEY TO THE SOUTH POLE<br />

They've endured waves of ice, high altitudes, extreme<br />

winds and punishing sub-zero temperatures and late<br />

yesterday the Antarctic Heritage Trust’s Inspiring Explorers<br />

ExpeditionTM team have reached the South Pole.<br />

The expedition set off from Ronne Ice Shelf on 18<br />

November. Each member skied almost 1,000km journey<br />

towing their equipment on a sledge behind them.The<br />

Inspiring ExplorersTM team was Auckland firefighter and<br />

medical first responder Laura Andrews (28); two-time<br />

Olympian and coach of the New Zealand canoe slalom<br />

team, Mike Dawson (35); and Norwegian intelligence<br />

analyst Marthe Brendefur (31).<br />

A typical routine was skiing for an hour at a time for up to 12<br />

hours a day, camping on the ice overnight. Mike Dawson,<br />

both exhausted and beaming with pride could hardly put his<br />

feelings into words.<br />

“It’s overwhelming to be here. It was a surreal feeling seeing<br />

the South Pole marker after such a long journey. Compared<br />

with my white water adventures, this was a long slow burn,<br />

every day walking towards that goal for 50 days.”<br />

Guided by Norwegian polar guide Bengt Rotmo from<br />

Ousland Explorers and led by Antarctic Heritage Trust<br />

Executive Director Nigel Watson, the 50 day expedition<br />

followed the Messner Route from the Ronne Ice Shelf, on<br />

the Weddell Sea side of Antarctica, to the South Pole.<br />

Full story next issue...<br />

EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />

Steve Dickinson<br />

Mob: 027 577 5014<br />

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

ART DIRECTOR<br />

Lynne Dickinson<br />

design@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES<br />

subscribe at www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz<br />

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www.skiandsnow.co.nz<br />

@adventurevanlifenz<br />

PUBLISHERS<br />

Pacific Media Ltd,<br />

11a Swann Beach Road<br />

Stanmore Bay, Whangaparaoa, New Zealand<br />

Ph: 0275775014 / Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

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Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped self-addressed envelope. Photographic material should be on slide,<br />

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our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all<br />

reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does not assume any<br />

responsibility or liability for loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of information contained herein<br />

and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of the material contained herein.<br />

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Available now from Rab specialist stores throughout NZ.<br />

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equipoutdoors.co.nz, gearshop.co.nz, outfittersstore.nz<br />

Distributed by Outfitters 0800021732 www.outfitters.net.nz


PAGE<br />

6<br />

CONTENTS:TRAVEL ISSUE <strong>#236</strong><br />

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74<br />

SAMOA<br />

NIUE<br />

RAROTONGA<br />

FRENCH POLYENSIA<br />

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88<br />

PAGE<br />

34<br />

PAGE<br />

84<br />

PAGE<br />

20<br />

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80<br />

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28<br />

FOLLOW US ON www.facebook.com/adventuremagnz adventuremagazine www.adventuremagazine.co.nz Nzadventuremag JOIN THE CONVERSATION #ADVENTUREMAGAZINE


ADVENTURE<br />

CLIMBING<br />

IN SPAIN<br />

THE ROAD<br />

LESS<br />

TRAVELLED<br />

Words and photos by Derek Cheng<br />

I winced in agony. I’d tumbled down a part of the<br />

trail that was, embarrassingly, not difficult. In my<br />

haste to rush towards a tantalisingly delicious<br />

300m-wall of orange-streaked limestone, I’d<br />

rolled my ankle—badly. As I waited for the pain to<br />

subside enough to stop clenching my eyes shut,<br />

I knew it was probably best to head back to camp<br />

and rest.<br />

But we were on the road, in a remote part of<br />

Spain, for the first time since the world was<br />

gripped in the Covid pandemic. We had driven a<br />

day to arrive at Mont-Rebei, a dramatic canyon<br />

with imposing 300m walls of limestone rising up<br />

on both sides of a river. And we were time-limited,<br />

having to return our rental car to Barcelona in a<br />

couple of days.<br />

In other words, it was a ‘carpe diem’ scenario.<br />

Having had my share of unexpected accidents, I<br />

was prepared for such scenarios, and was soon<br />

swallowing ibuprofen and tramadol pills. It was<br />

another half hour to the base of the cliff, and<br />

by the time we arrived, there were already six<br />

climbers ahead of us. We weren’t very prepared<br />

for this, having been told that Mont-Rebei was a<br />

‘no picnic’ climbing destination, and would likely<br />

be deserted. (We later learned that we’d arrived in<br />

the middle of a national four-day holiday weekend,<br />

hence the crowd.)<br />

Luckily, the last climber in the conga line gave us<br />

a map for a nearby route - called Delfos - which<br />

we humbly accepted. We scrambled higher to<br />

arrive at the base, my ankle by now having burst<br />

from the swell-gate. But with tramadol vibes<br />

humming through my veins, we started up the<br />

wall.<br />

It was soon obvious that this was ‘adventure<br />

climbing’, a euphemism for climbing loads and<br />

loads of fragile rock. Climbers tend to prefer solid<br />

rock, given that the last thing they want is to pull<br />

off a handhold and be airborne, with nothing but<br />

the rope to prevent them from free-falling to the<br />

ground. We were happy to quickly pass the only<br />

other party on the route, thankful they hadn’t<br />

accidentally thrown any rocks on us from above.<br />

The limestone cliffs of Siurana are known for<br />

6//WHERE ACTIONS demanding SPEAK technical LOUDER climbing THAN on tiny WORDS/<strong>#236</strong> holds


"There’s enough rock in Spain to<br />

last a lifetime. There’s actually<br />

enough in Catalonia alone, in<br />

northeast Spain, with famous sites<br />

Siurana and Margalef."<br />

The route traverses some tricky terrain<br />

where you don’t want to touch any<br />

part of the cliff that doesn’t have chalk<br />

on it; this at least indicates handholds<br />

that have been used and are yet to<br />

be pulled from the cliff. It culminates<br />

in two beautiful corners - where you<br />

literally have to climb through a tree or<br />

two - before topping out onto a glorious<br />

summit ridge.<br />

By then my ankle was well fat, with my<br />

limp becoming increasingly pronounced<br />

during the 90-minute descent. But it<br />

was worth it, so worth it, in fact, that<br />

I repeated the ankle punishment the<br />

following day when we climbed Diedre<br />

Gris, the route we'd wanted to do on day<br />

one. ‘Diedre’ means corner and, after<br />

an airy and exposed traverse, the route<br />

basically follows an enormous corner<br />

for hundreds of metres. Again, the rock<br />

was of ‘adventurous’ quality, but the<br />

movement was thrilling. At one point, we<br />

had to negotiate a giant flake of rock by<br />

following its edge, hand over hand, as<br />

tierra firma growled hungrily from below.<br />

Having successfully seized the days, we<br />

left Mont-Rebei the following day - but<br />

not without a particular kind of mishap<br />

that threatens any adventurous travel<br />

story. The first indication I was facing a<br />

poo-tastrophe was when I emerged from<br />

the tent that morning; somehow lying in<br />

a sleeping bag keeps the poo-situation<br />

under control. I’d already let my partner<br />

Rachel take the bog-roll that morning,<br />

telling her that I needed to go too but<br />

she could go first.<br />

I started packing up our things inside<br />

the tent - sleeping bag, sleeping mat,<br />

pillows. As soon as I stood up, my<br />

situation declared itself far more urgent<br />

than I’d realised. ‘I should busy myself,’<br />

I thought to myself. Bowels are easily<br />

distracted, aren’t they? I collapsed<br />

the tent, collected the pegs, rolled<br />

everything up. She’s been at least 10<br />

minutes, and she knows I have to go.<br />

Where is she?<br />

8//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong><br />

I thought to myself, ‘I could just go<br />

somewhere, dig a hole in the dirt and<br />

do my business, and then wait for her<br />

to return and hand me some bog-roll<br />

while I'm still squatting.’ But what an<br />

undignified start to the day! No. I am not<br />

a passive player in this. I have agency.<br />

I’ll take a load to the car, collect another<br />

bog-roll, and do my business.<br />

It’s amazing how much more urgent the<br />

poo-situation became in the few minutes<br />

it took to walk through the forest to our<br />

car, parked by a dirt road. I’d already<br />

pulled my long-johns to my knees, in<br />

case I was about to be ambushed, by<br />

the time I reached the road. I popped<br />

the trunk, found some toilet paper,<br />

shuffled quickly a few metres from<br />

the car, and unloaded. It couldn’t wait<br />

another second. I hated such scars on<br />

the roadside, though, so mid-unloading,<br />

I hobbled - my long-johns still hugging<br />

my calf muscles - to the other side of the<br />

road. (Please let no cars drive by at this<br />

moment.) I ambled clumsily up a small<br />

rise to find somewhere more suitable for<br />

my deposit.<br />

It was then, squatting in my new<br />

position, that I saw it: The Horror.<br />

I’d pooped on myself. The evidence<br />

was plainly seen between my sock<br />

and my flip-flop. Actually, there was<br />

a shitty stain on my long-johns, too.<br />

Something repugnant of my own making<br />

had dropped onto my calf and then<br />

somehow squished itself between my<br />

heel and jandal.<br />

At this point, I heard Rachel near the car<br />

and called out a warning to her. ‘There’s<br />

poo near the car!' When I’d cleaned<br />

myself up as best I could, I joined her<br />

and explained what had happened,<br />

and my gross underestimation of how<br />

desperate the situation was. It was<br />

hilarious, in hindsight, to picture her<br />

all this time relaxing on the hillside,<br />

transfixed at the reddening horizon as<br />

the day dawned, inhaling the splendour<br />

of the outdoors with no worries - or<br />

haste - to consider.<br />

Such was the frenzied urgency gripping<br />

me that I’d dropped my first bomb right<br />

by the car’s trunk without even realising.<br />

Before we drove off, I made sure to grab<br />

a stick and flick it from the roadside, lest<br />

anyone stand on it.<br />

—-<br />

Like everyone else, I’d put all travel<br />

plans on hold while the pandemic<br />

gripped the world and borders were shut<br />

down. As they opened up again, I was<br />

itching to resume my old dirtbag life,<br />

and Europe was top of the list. After a<br />

summer in Chamonix, France, sampling<br />

the magnificent granite towers of the<br />

alps, Rachel and I headed to Spain, a<br />

country famous for its sport climbing.<br />

There’s enough rock in Spain to last<br />

a lifetime. There’s actually enough in<br />

Catalonia alone, in northeast Spain, with<br />

famous sites Siurana and Margalef. The<br />

former is a series of orange and grey<br />

limestone cliffs weaving up a valley to<br />

the top, where the remains of an 11th<br />

century Arabic castle sits. The climbing<br />

is technical, steep, and typically with tiny<br />

holds to wrap your fingertips around. The<br />

latter is pocketed conglomerate, often on<br />

extremely steep terrain where sometimes<br />

you’re using the tip of a digit or two to<br />

lift most of your body weight. But these<br />

sites, deserving as they are of their<br />

reputations, were expectedly crowded.<br />

Thankfully, a Catalonian friend in<br />

Chamonix had provided us with an<br />

east-to-west road trip to less frequented<br />

spots, the first of which was Montgrony,<br />

at the foothills of the Pyrenees. An<br />

ancient site with a religious sanctuary<br />

literally carved into the side of the<br />

limestone cliff, this was a gorgeous<br />

setting to test our tufa-climbing prowess.<br />

The walls are decorated with curved<br />

columns that often have to be pinched,<br />

lobster-style, a kind of climbing of which<br />

New Zealand has little. We stayed in an<br />

old refugio nearby, a massive cottage<br />

with a stone floor and a fireplace - a<br />

perfect, and free, base.<br />

Some of the hardest climbs in the world are in Margalef, with its steep walls of pocketed conglomerate<br />

Montgrony offers tufa-blessed limestone, a nearby stone cottage to hang out in,<br />

and a religious sanctuary literally carved into the cliff


Above: The ruins of an ancient Arabic castle sit stop the<br />

limestone cliffs of the Siurana valley.<br />

Next on the list was Coll de Nargo, a small<br />

mountain hamlet to the north of its more<br />

famous neighbour Oliana, which is home<br />

to some of the world’s hardest climbs. The<br />

countryside around Nargo is littered with<br />

limestone crags. We sampled a couple, and<br />

then headed to a cliff-line called Perles, where<br />

we found some bolted multipitch lines of<br />

excellent quality, as well as some single pitch<br />

climbs under an enormous rock arch.<br />

Spain is not known as an international<br />

destination for multipitch climbing, but it has<br />

an abundance. Our next stop, Roca dels Arcs,<br />

near the small town of Villanova de Meia, is<br />

a cliff of limestone 250m high and several<br />

kilometres across. The route we climbed, El<br />

Senor de los Bordillos (translation: the guy<br />

in the kerb), turned out to be deceptively<br />

difficult, weaving through a roof and then up<br />

vertical terrain with nothing but razor-edge<br />

holds to cling to. At the base of the cliff, after<br />

descending, some French climbers directed<br />

us to a nearby monastery at the top of a hill,<br />

a perfect place to pitch a tent and wander<br />

through some ancient ruins.<br />

The next valley over contains the Terradets<br />

canyon - again, a lifetime of climbing here -<br />

and from there we headed to Mont-Rebei, a<br />

place so alluring that we returned once we’d<br />

driven to Barcelona and grabbed another<br />

rental car. (For some reason, it’s cheaper to<br />

rent for 30 days than for 60, so we drove back<br />

and swapped cars after 30.) In the spirit of our<br />

Spanish travels so far, we slept in an old stone<br />

cottage under Cap de Ras, the eastern part of<br />

the same cliff line, and finished our multipitch<br />

adventures on a climb called El Tercer Hombre<br />

(translation: the third man). The climb has the<br />

luxury of being fully bolted, and finishes on a<br />

difficult, vertical face with long moves between<br />

tiny holds.<br />

At the summit, we surveyed the arid, orangespeckled<br />

beauty in all directions. A few ancient<br />

towers could be seen in distant hilltops, where<br />

tiny mountain hamlets survive on goat farming<br />

and tourist visitors. The pace of Spanish life<br />

had been far less frenzied - poo-trastophe<br />

aside - than the mountains around Chamonix.<br />

But, as we discovered, that doesn’t mean<br />

there isn’t much multipitching adventures to be<br />

had: several lifetimes’ worth, in fact, if we only<br />

had several lifetimes at our disposal.<br />

10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong><br />

Main image: Chris Baker stretches while climbing ‘The<br />

death of the sponsor’ (7b+, 26) in Siurana


DISCOVERING<br />

SUN PEAKS<br />

A LEGENDARY<br />

BIKE PARK<br />

Words by Jenny Hodder<br />

Big Risk Equals Big Reward, Right?<br />

I was not raised to embody the “big risk equals big<br />

reward” mindset, but it’s a way of living I’ve adopted<br />

as I’ve aged– for better or for worse (depends on<br />

who you ask). Over the course of my early 20’s, I<br />

embarked on a turbulent journey of trial and error,<br />

testing the reliability of this philosophy, however<br />

frivolous the “testing” might’ve been. It’s worked both<br />

in my favour and against me. Each time it’s worked<br />

in my favour, I’ve experienced richness I wouldn’t<br />

have without the risk and stacked another brick on the<br />

stature of my self-trust. Each time it’s worked against<br />

me, I uncovered lessons that were crucial to the<br />

journey and laughed at my misguided mistakes.<br />

This philosophy goes alongside my foremost agenda<br />

of “figure out what makes me happy and just do it.”<br />

One risk led me across Canada, 7 000 kilometers<br />

away from my network of friends, my family, and my<br />

home near the ocean. I left the people, life, and culture<br />

that was familiar to me for a community I had no idea<br />

how to be a part of and a life among mountains I had<br />

no idea how to live. The reward: the life I wanted to<br />

live (in Sun Peaks, British Columbia).<br />

Mahalo My Dude rider getting air on Sundance Mountain, summer 2022<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//13


“Once the fear<br />

dissolves, the stoke<br />

of feeling weightless<br />

takes over and you<br />

question why you<br />

didn’t start biking<br />

sooner,”<br />

Mahalo My Dude rider getting air on Sundance Mountain, summer 2022.<br />

This summer, I translated “big risk<br />

equals big reward” to mountain biking in<br />

the Sun Peaks Bike Park. Here’s what<br />

I learned:<br />

• Always evaluate the risk and<br />

determine the impact of the<br />

reward.<br />

• The reward does not always<br />

balance the risk.<br />

• If the risk is riding a trail you’re not<br />

ready for and the reward is your<br />

own satisfaction or a fist bump,<br />

you’ll probably discover what it<br />

feels like to go OTB (over the<br />

handlebars).<br />

• “I’m just going to send it,” isn’t<br />

viable reasoning for a risk on your<br />

bike.<br />

• Lastly, the voice of your risk will<br />

often be your ego telling you you’re<br />

better than you are, don’t listen to it.<br />

Sweat, Callouses, and Fatigue.<br />

Late July sun melts over the soft, inviting<br />

mountains that encircle Sun Peaks. It<br />

trickles through thick greenery lining the<br />

trail beneath my bike and dyes the air<br />

gold. Laughing and eccentric chaos fill<br />

the plumes of golden air. I narrow my<br />

field of vision so the only thing within it<br />

is the soil laden surface of my favourite<br />

flow trail, Stella Blue. Mindfully inhaling<br />

and exhaling, I breathe with the smooth<br />

transition of each jump and berm.<br />

Clouds of earthy dust gather in my wake,<br />

a layer of buttery sunshine spreads over<br />

my goggles, and I gulp down traces of<br />

wildflowers in the air. The world feels<br />

suspended in a moment – the kind I’ve<br />

been chasing for my whole life, but<br />

never knew how to create. Turns out I<br />

needed to buy a bike and ride the Sun<br />

Peaks Bike Park.<br />

Pools of sweat soak the inner padding<br />

of my helmet, my calloused hands are<br />

cramping with fatigue. If you’ve never<br />

biked before, I’m sure it all sounds<br />

exhausting and intimidating, and<br />

honestly it is; but I’ve never felt so close<br />

to flying. Once the fear dissolves, the<br />

stoke of feeling weightless takes over<br />

and you question why you didn’t start<br />

biking sooner.<br />

“In Sun Peaks,<br />

we’re passionate<br />

about mountain<br />

biking.”<br />

North of 20 years ago, Sun Peaks OGs<br />

and core mountain bikers initiated the<br />

beginnings of a legendary bike park.<br />

Scraping trails into Tod Mountain by<br />

hand, they didn’t realize they were<br />

foraging the path to a world-class<br />

downhill biking experience.<br />

Rider Jenny Hodder on Canada Line,<br />

summer 2022.<br />

14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


“No matter where I<br />

go, a fraction of my<br />

heart will always<br />

lay among the soil<br />

on Stella Blue in<br />

the Sun Peaks Bike<br />

Park.”<br />

Lacee Smith whizzing through wildflowers on<br />

Tod Mountain, summer 2022.<br />

Photo: Dylan Sherrard.<br />

16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong><br />

Rider Jenny Hodder on Canada Line, summer 2022.<br />

In its beginning era, the bike park<br />

reflected the heart and soul of what<br />

mountain biking was at the time –<br />

gnarly and rowdy. Legendary trails<br />

like Steam Shovel, Gnar-Boom, and<br />

Insanity One are notoriously known in<br />

Sun Peaks for their calibre of difficulty<br />

and are trails that attract riders who<br />

push their limits. Years unfolded and<br />

with each one, the Sun Peaks Bike<br />

Park evolved. In the time leading up to<br />

this summer, the bike park experienced<br />

significant growth and the approach<br />

became “come one, come all.”<br />

The staff and riders behind each<br />

chapter of the bike park’s development<br />

were fueled by their insatiable passion<br />

for riding. They laid blueprints and dug<br />

trails with a vision to elevate riding<br />

and make Sun Peaks the best place<br />

to do it. Fast forward to June, 2022.<br />

The Sun Peaks Bike Park is now “built<br />

for progression” and the diversity of<br />

terrain is dialed for both beginners<br />

and pros. After a $1.5M investment,<br />

the bike park expanded onto an<br />

entirely separate mountain, opened a<br />

second summer chairlift, and added 19<br />

kilometers of new downhill terrain.<br />

Riders now have the freedom to<br />

explore all three mountains in Sun<br />

Peaks on their bikes. As I rode the<br />

new trails on Sundance Mountain this<br />

summer, it was common to overhear<br />

remarks like, “That was the best blue<br />

flow trail I’ve ever ridden” (referencing<br />

the oh so magnificent Stella Blue).<br />

The Risk That Wasn’t a Risk at All.<br />

The ambiguity of the unknown is<br />

unsettling; it is for me at least. As much<br />

as I seek spontaneity, I struggle with<br />

lack of structure and the element of<br />

not knowing. Prior to moving to Sun<br />

Peaks, there was little about my life<br />

that was unpredictable. I worked,<br />

went to the same local pubs, and<br />

consistently saw the same people.<br />

Leaving that predictability behind<br />

for something so foreign felt like a<br />

significant risk. Now, I watch the sun<br />

sink behind the mountains after a day<br />

in the bike park. I ride the chairlift to<br />

embark on an alpine hike after work.<br />

I’ve discovered skills and passions<br />

etched into mountain culture that<br />

have become integral to my quality of<br />

life. I’ve experienced the support of<br />

community.<br />

The “big risk” of moving to Sun Peaks,<br />

wasn’t really a risk at all – it brought to<br />

light a piece of my identity that I didn’t<br />

know I was missing. No matter where<br />

I go, a fraction of my heart will always<br />

lay among the soil on Stella Blue in the<br />

Sun Peaks Bike Park.<br />

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First hike in the Dolomites, Italy, to Refugio re Alberto<br />

On world-class winning wave at Nias, Indonesia<br />

Image by WSL<br />

PAIGE<br />

HAREB<br />

HAVE BLOG...<br />

WILL TRAVEL<br />

Words by Paige Hareb, Images by Lauren Murray<br />

I’ve been a pro-surfer, and a<br />

self-proclaimed pro-traveller for<br />

over 14 years now. Sitting here<br />

reflecting on the last six months<br />

of my travel, I’m feeling a lot of<br />

gratitude. After semi-deciding and<br />

semi-being forced to stay in NZ<br />

for two whole years because of<br />

the pandemic, I felt it was time to<br />

make the most of travelling again.<br />

Ironically, the week before<br />

I started my first adventure<br />

overseas, I got Covid for my<br />

birthday, June 6. My week of<br />

isolation just finished in time for<br />

me to fly out to Indonesia for two<br />

surf competitions.<br />

I had contests at Krui and Nias,<br />

which were amazing! The finals<br />

day at Nias has been a real<br />

standout moment for me this<br />

year, the waves were absolutely<br />

pumping, the best I’ve ever had<br />

for a contest! The win there<br />

made it that much sweeter too.<br />

My travel agent was telling me<br />

not to do it before South Africa<br />

because she didn’t think I would<br />

get my boards in time. I’d always<br />

wanted to go there so I just<br />

ignored her and risked it. I’m so<br />

happy I went, it paid off. It was<br />

the very first time I’d travelled<br />

alone to an event and stayed by<br />

myself, maybe I should try doing<br />

that more. All I wanted to do was<br />

keep getting through more heats<br />

just to surf perfect waves with no<br />

one out. Two weeks in Indo and<br />

I was already head over heels<br />

in love with travelling again.<br />

Next stop the United States of<br />

America baby!<br />

"I didn't<br />

realise how<br />

much I missed<br />

travelling"<br />

I didn’t realise how much I<br />

missed travelling. I was in<br />

California for the US Open at<br />

Huntington Beach, but I stayed<br />

on for a few months with my<br />

girlfriend and pro-photographer,<br />

Lauren Murray, exploring<br />

the area, and hiking through<br />

Big Pine Creek, the Grand<br />

Canyon, Yosemite, Joshua Tree,<br />

Colorado and Big Sur. America is<br />

such a big country with so much<br />

to do, I think it will always be in<br />

the top 10-holiday list for me.<br />

Next we headed to Italy, I had<br />

never been there before so<br />

wanted to do the classic tourist<br />

thing and visit Venice before<br />

we headed to the Dolomites in<br />

Northern Italy. We did several<br />

hikes here as well as one just<br />

across the border in Austria. The<br />

hiking ‘Huttes’ in Italy and Austria<br />

were very impressive, positioned<br />

in some crazy, amazing spots in<br />

the mountains.<br />

After a quick competition Near<br />

Lisboa, Portugal and an even<br />

quicker road/surf trip South to<br />

Algarve, a place that seemed a<br />

bit like a Bali destination for the<br />

UK and other Europeans.<br />

With a quick overnight in<br />

Denmark (another new fav city<br />

of mine), we then headed to the<br />

Faroe Islands. A self-governing<br />

archipelago, part of the Kingdom<br />

of Denmark, that I had only just<br />

heard of and had no idea where<br />

it was or what to expect. I felt<br />

lucky to be there because not<br />

many people get to go there.<br />

The landscape was amazing,<br />

waterfalls everywhere and huge,<br />

steep cliffs dropping straight into<br />

the wild sea. I managed to fit a<br />

surf in there too, it was small but<br />

Right: A grand view in the Grand Canyon.<br />

20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//21


Iceland, cool and cool.<br />

"It felt a little scary<br />

being the out in such a<br />

huge bay."<br />

it’s definitely got a lot of potential, and I left there<br />

already wanting to go back and explore more. It<br />

reminded me a lot of New Zealand.<br />

As if I didn’t think our trip could get any cooler (pun<br />

intended), we headed to Iceland. It’s always been a<br />

country on my bucket list so I could barely contain<br />

my excitement about going there. We were lucky<br />

enough for Happy Campers to give us their latest<br />

4WD camper van for 10 days. It wasn’t their winter<br />

yet, but it sure felt and looked a lot like winter still.<br />

We pretty much drove around the whole country,<br />

exploring waterfalls, hikes, the f-roads, thermal<br />

pools and of course the beaches. I had always<br />

wanted to surf the famous right-hander there,<br />

surrounded by the snow-covered mountains.<br />

I was warm in the water with all the right gear. The<br />

wave was small but so perfect and fun. It felt so<br />

surreal and a little bit scary being the only one out<br />

in a huge bay, the snow all around was amazing. It<br />

was such a unique experience I will never forget.<br />

We were lucky enough to see some of the Northern<br />

lights too. I would definitely recommend a trip to<br />

Iceland, I promise you I will be going back there.<br />

I then spent a week in Anglet, France visiting my<br />

French brother and sister, who stayed with my<br />

family throughout the first lockdown in NZ. France<br />

is always a good place to visit, one of my alltime<br />

favourite countries. Possibly one of the only<br />

countries I would consider living in. I love their food<br />

and way of life in the South of France.<br />

Right: Lago di Sorapis, another hike in Northern Italy.<br />

22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//23


Clockwise from top left: A quick but beautiful hike up from a family<br />

cabin in Colorado, USA. / Chasing waterfalls in Iceland. / Stayed the<br />

night up by this swing bridge in Austria, first day was all rocky, next<br />

day was covered in snow.<br />

I then headed back to Brazil for another competition. I<br />

always moan about flying all the way to Brazil, but once<br />

I’m there, I do enjoy it, it’s one of those countries that have<br />

seemed to slowly grow on me over the years.<br />

A new contest then came up in Taiwan. I had never been<br />

before, this year felt like it was my year to go to as many<br />

new countries as possible, so the decision to fly straight<br />

there from Brazil was pretty easy, even though it took 50+<br />

hours. I didn’t really know what to expect there, but I was<br />

very impressed. The water and weather were very tropical,<br />

the waves were very consistent and fun, oh and how good<br />

was the food! I think it could be my new destination instead<br />

of Bali. A lot of similarities but a lot fewer people in the water<br />

when surfing.<br />

Last but not least, to finish the six months of travel, Hawaii.<br />

I was meant to have my last competition there but with<br />

the horrible exchange rate USD to NZD and the high<br />

accommodation rates there, it just wasn’t feasible to stay for<br />

so long. However, we did still manage to fit in a few days on<br />

Kauai island, an island I hadn’t been to before. It was small<br />

to drive around with huge Jurassic park-like scenery but I<br />

think I still prefer either Maui or Oahu. It was nice to finish<br />

the six months of travel in somewhere that was tropical and<br />

actually felt like a holiday and slightly closer to home, which<br />

we were nearly ready for.<br />

Follow Paige on:<br />

instagram.com/paigehareb<br />

facebook.com/paige.hareb<br />

twitter.com/paigehareb<br />

24//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong><br />

BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA


M<br />

MASTERCLASS<br />

WITH CHRIS MCLENNAN<br />

This image of an Eagle Hunter in action was taken in<br />

the remote Altai mountains of Mongolia whilst running<br />

one of my photography expedition workshops. For<br />

this image I lay flat on the ground to get the lowest<br />

possible angle. This gives the feel of extra power to<br />

the horse galloping directly towards the camera as it<br />

dominates from above. The low angle also allowed me<br />

to show less of the ground directly in front of and behind<br />

the horse which in turn gives the perception of even<br />

shallower depth of field helping to isolate the horse, rider<br />

and eagle from the backdrop.<br />

Careful choice of camera settings were in play here. I<br />

needed high enough ISO to ensure a fast shutter speed.<br />

I shot relatively wide f stop which gave shallow depth<br />

of field but also allowed a bit of a buffer for focus and<br />

the different elements in the image to be sharp. I use<br />

continuous focus and locked onto the eye of the rider. It<br />

was a real bonus to have a catchlight in the eagle's eye<br />

and the horses hooves off the ground throwing dust and<br />

stones around for a bit of added drama.<br />

Nikon Z9, Nikkor 180-400mm lens at 390mm<br />

ISO 800. f 6.3 for 1/2500 second<br />

Chris can help you to perfect your photographic skills<br />

whilst seeing some of the most spectacular subjects on<br />

the planet. Chris McLennan leads photo expeditions in<br />

Mongolia as well as Africa, Alaska, Svalbard and Papua<br />

New Guinea.<br />

www.chrismclennanphotography.com/photo-expeditions<br />

FB: facebook.com/Chris.McLennan.Photography<br />

IG: chris_mclennan1<br />

26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


GUTSING IT OUT ON<br />

THE MOTATAPU TRAIL<br />

AVOIDING NOVEMBER SNOW IN<br />

CENTRAL OTAGO<br />

Words and images by Eric Skilling<br />

“Who would choose to walk this<br />

trail?”, I found myself asking out loud<br />

even though there was nobody within<br />

earshot. Perhaps if you were a multiday<br />

adventure-racer, training for one of<br />

those endurance events. Perhaps if you<br />

really liked walking alongside exposed<br />

tussock - lots and lots of tussock. Or<br />

perhaps you had just had a knee or hip<br />

reconstruction and felt a need to test<br />

the success of the operation.<br />

Okay, maybe I was still grumpy after<br />

the disappointment of cancelling a third<br />

attempt to tackle Gillespie Pass and<br />

get my first look at Lake Crucible. In<br />

the face of a rapidly worsening weather<br />

forecast we had sought the advice of<br />

the charming and informative folk at<br />

the DOC centre in Wanaka the day<br />

before we were to set out to Makarora.<br />

“I wouldn’t go there! You need to<br />

stay east of the divide” was the very<br />

disheartening but very prudent advice.<br />

Motatapu is not an easy tramp. It<br />

doesn’t promise close-up views of<br />

alpine peaks or glacial lakes, or mile<br />

after mile of tranquil beech forest.<br />

Walking alongside fence lines and the<br />

odour of fresh livestock dung has a way<br />

of taking away that wilderness feel but<br />

nevertheless this trail is a challenge<br />

worth accepting. Where else can you<br />

climb well over 3,000 metres in 3 days,<br />

only lose it all again without the reward<br />

of reaching a single peak.<br />

By the time we reached around 1,100<br />

metres on the first day, almost 200<br />

metres short of Jack’s saddle at 1,275<br />

metres, my enthusiasm had reached<br />

a low ebb. It was uncomfortably hot,<br />

which made me doubt the accuracy of<br />

the weather forecast that had got us<br />

here in the first place. Our group of 5<br />

was stretched out along the exposed<br />

track as it meandered around steep<br />

ridges and dived into damp gullies, but<br />

always it went up again - a long way up.<br />

To make matters worse, we knew we<br />

would lose 500 metres before reaching<br />

that day’s destination. This was a slog.<br />

But it got better, a lot better. Later that<br />

day five sweaty trampers would round<br />

the final ridge and the longed-for sight<br />

of the Highland hut. The effort involved<br />

in reaching that point would have<br />

made the most dilapidated shelter look<br />

magnificent, but this hut must rate as<br />

one of the most amazing settings for a<br />

night’s stop.<br />

Andrew searching his way through the tussock on the lightly formed track<br />

Sited on a sloping basin, with its<br />

back to an amphitheatre of towering<br />

mountains, it faces northwards, giving<br />

views down the rugged V-shaped river<br />

valley of the Highland creek to snowtopped<br />

peaks of the Harris Mountain<br />

range. Providing shelter for many<br />

adventurers since 2008, including a<br />

steady stream of Te Araroa trekkers,<br />

the cabin was in great condition. It<br />

has been well designed with plenty of<br />

space to accommodate the 12 people it<br />

was intended to lodge.<br />

It wasn’t long before all those things<br />

that makes tramping so enjoyable<br />

had begun clicking into place. After a<br />

quick unpack and wash, a few of us<br />

had gathered on the deck replete with<br />

hot coffee and chocolate to watch the<br />

valley darken and the snow on the<br />

faraway peaks turn pink. That was one<br />

of those priceless moments that makes<br />

you forget the efforts of the day.<br />

"Motatapu is not<br />

an easy tramp. It<br />

doesn’t promise<br />

close-up views of<br />

alpine peaks or<br />

glacial lakes, or<br />

mile after mile<br />

of tranquil beech<br />

forest."<br />

28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//29


Shane on the steep and narrow descent to Highland Hut<br />

Banter with a few mates over dinner,<br />

making friends with travellers from<br />

around the world, and then venturing<br />

outside to enjoy a sparkling night sky<br />

framed by the soaring peaks around us,<br />

before heading back inside for the night.<br />

Once out on the track again the next<br />

day, I had begun to look at the terrain as<br />

a challenge and not some masochistic<br />

trail-blazers idea of a wake-up call for<br />

the unfit, unprepared, or over-packed. I<br />

began to appreciate the determination<br />

involved in designing, developing,<br />

and maintaining the track. Those<br />

atmosphere-killing fences became<br />

symbols of the resolve and endurance of<br />

high-country farmers. Respect.<br />

This is big country, big like Texas. In<br />

the words of Geoff Chapple, founder<br />

of the Te Araroa track “within the trail’s<br />

wider landscapes, [you] may see it’s<br />

human figures diminished by scale<br />

and distance, yet in that reduction,<br />

enhanced.” Each of the next 4 saddles<br />

we crested became a stunning view into<br />

a vast countryside with a thousand folds<br />

and creases. Huge weather-beaten<br />

boulders stuck out on the skyline<br />

like ancient, ruined temples, or hung<br />

precariously from the sides of the steep<br />

ridges. Faraway peaks seemed to be<br />

laid in a deceptively smooth looking<br />

carpet of tussock. Streams snaked<br />

across the gently sloping valley floor.<br />

Energy sapping drops into gullies<br />

became welcome sources of cool, clear<br />

refreshing water.<br />

Over the course of the 3-days we<br />

kept reminding ourselves this route<br />

is graded “advanced”, and there was<br />

plenty of debate about what defined<br />

that term. It made sense that the track<br />

would require a decent amount of<br />

sweat. Expect plenty of scrambling on<br />

the steep sections. The track ranges<br />

from narrow to very narrow (or, as the<br />

guide states – is “lightly formed”) and<br />

occasionally disappears into foliage or<br />

eroded away in many small slips. Some<br />

hair-raising drop-offs will reawaken<br />

the lapsing concentration, especially<br />

on some downward ridges. There are<br />

plenty of streams to cross and rivercrossings<br />

to evaluate.<br />

All three huts - Fern Burn, Highland<br />

and Roses were clean, well-insulated,<br />

spacious, and well placed. Successful<br />

predator management in the forested<br />

sections must be congratulated, but<br />

don’t expect many bird calls near the<br />

huts or the open parts of the trail.<br />

Be wary of the Spaniards –<br />

appropriately named aciphylla horrida,<br />

hiding in the huge tussock stacks along<br />

"This is big country,<br />

big like Texas. In<br />

the words of Geoff<br />

Chapple, founder of<br />

the Te Araroa track<br />

“within the trail’s<br />

wider landscapes,<br />

[you] may see it’s<br />

human figures<br />

diminished by scale<br />

and distance, yet<br />

in that reduction,<br />

enhanced.”"<br />

Highland Hut with the snow-topped Harris Mountains in the distance<br />

30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//31


John making his way off the last ridge on the way to Arrow River Valley and Macetown<br />

Fresh faced Steve and John in the forest on day 1<br />

"Motatapu is<br />

to quote, “an<br />

extraordinary gift<br />

to the nation”.<br />

Unashamedly and<br />

unapologetically<br />

demanding,"<br />

Shane feeling the heat on the way to Jacks Saddle<br />

the traverse between Highland and<br />

Roses hut. We must have endured<br />

more stabbings from these unwelcome<br />

native shrubs on that stretch than<br />

the English in 1588. Matagouri are<br />

flourishing alongside and in some<br />

cases, on, the challenging segment<br />

between Roses saddle and Macetown,<br />

ready to snag any uncovered skin,<br />

coats and packs.<br />

All this was anticipated. The trail could<br />

do with some TLC in places. There were<br />

plenty of fallen trees to negotiate in the<br />

few forested areas and a fair bit of bushbashing<br />

around some eroded sections.<br />

We all felt sympathy for the Te Araroa<br />

folk who get to face these obstacles<br />

with their heavier packs, often in poor<br />

weather conditions, making for several<br />

successive days of tough tramping.<br />

Don’t plan to wimp out of the last<br />

day from Roses hut or overcome<br />

the logistical issues by crossing the<br />

private station back to the Glendu Bay<br />

car park. There is very clear signage<br />

explaining that if you dare to cross into<br />

the Station, you will be retracing your<br />

steps back to the trail.<br />

Weather forecasts for mountainous<br />

regions are understandably unreliable,<br />

but the general gist of the forecast<br />

during our stay was for snow to 1600<br />

metres, the height of Gillespie Pass<br />

on our second day (in late-November),<br />

which turned out to be accurate.<br />

The long-range forecast was for<br />

deteriorating conditions and the snow<br />

level lowering to 1100 metres, which<br />

also turned out to be accurate. The<br />

blessing of heading east of the divide<br />

was most of the foul weather only<br />

reached us after nightfall, except for<br />

the last day when we spent many hours<br />

trudging in cold rain.<br />

the final 10km stretch from Roses hut<br />

with its 500 metres of climb over the<br />

saddle and down again to Macetown,<br />

followed by 15km of four-wheel track<br />

across and alongside the river.<br />

This turned out to be a very wise<br />

decision. The stormy weather that had<br />

dumped snow on Gillespie pass had<br />

finally made its way off the mountain<br />

range to unleash on us by the time we<br />

reached Macetown. I believe a few<br />

friendships would have been written<br />

off had we pitched tents in the misty<br />

rain, and then endured a night camping<br />

out on sodden ground exposed to the<br />

wind as it raged down the narrow Arrow<br />

River valley. The historic significance<br />

of this settlement will have to wait until<br />

another visit.<br />

Our feet were numb with cold before<br />

we had even managed less than 10<br />

of the 23 river crossings between<br />

Macetown and Arrowtown, with the river<br />

rising each time we stepped into the<br />

fast-flowing waters. Luckily for us we<br />

reached the mountain bike track and its<br />

bridges at that stage which saved us a<br />

night camping out.<br />

Arrowtown - what a wonderful place<br />

to finish a trail. With the benefit<br />

of hindsight this is a great spot to<br />

celebrate and spend the night. The<br />

logistical arrangements were already<br />

difficult enough, so the option of an<br />

overnight stop in Arrowtown never got<br />

to be discussed anyway.<br />

Motatapu is to quote, “an extraordinary<br />

gift to the nation”. Unashamedly and<br />

unapologetically demanding, it provided<br />

us with a very different experience<br />

to the nearby sub-alpine and higher<br />

journeys, and one we will all reminisce<br />

about for some time to come.<br />

All-inclusive<br />

package from<br />

$440 per person<br />

(twin share)<br />

Package includes:<br />

• Track transfers<br />

• Coffee and cake on arrival at<br />

On the Track Lodge<br />

• 2 nights in comfortable chalet<br />

accommodation*<br />

• All meals (Day 1 dinner & dessert,<br />

Day 2 breakfast, packed lunch & dinner<br />

& dessert, Day 3 breakfast & packed<br />

lunch). Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free<br />

meals available)<br />

• Use of On the Track Lodge kayaks<br />

and all other amenities, including a<br />

hot-tub.<br />

*Upgrade to stay in the newly<br />

renovated vintage train carriages<br />

(with private bathroom).<br />

Discover the hidden wonders of the Nydia Track, it is not as well known or<br />

busy as the Queen Charlotte Track but just as beautiful.<br />

The track takes you through coastal forest (rimu, nikau and beech) with<br />

superb views and is suitable for people with a reasonable level of fitness,<br />

boots are recommended and some of the streams are not bridged.<br />

• Start from Havelock and take a shuttle to historic Kaiuma Bay, (4-5 hours).<br />

• Dine then stay at On the Track Lodge in a comfortable chalet<br />

or train carriage accommodation.<br />

• Spend the next day relaxing at the lodge, kayaking or taking some shorter walks.<br />

• The next day complete the rest of the tramp (carrying your freshly<br />

prepared packed lunch) to Duncan Bay in time for another shuttle ride back to Havelock.<br />

On The Track Lodge<br />

Nydia Track, Marlborough Sounds<br />

+643 579 8411 | stay@onthetracklodge.nz<br />

www.onthetracklodge.nz<br />

The steep and narrow descent<br />

Fortuitously we had planned to avoid<br />

spending a third night camping at<br />

Macetown. We had chosen to complete<br />

I choose to use Jetboil, Macpac,<br />

Backcountry Cuisine and Keen.


SLACKLINING<br />

IN KAZAKSTAN<br />

Words and images compliments of Red Bull<br />

500m at 200m high in windy 50°C weather.<br />

With the backdrop of the picturesque landscapes of Kazakstan,<br />

Estonian Jaan Roose became the first person to cross the iconic<br />

“fangs” on a slackline, limestone pillars that make up the Bozzhyra<br />

tract, also known as the 'Sugar Castles' and were crafted by the<br />

ancient Tethys Ocean, millions of years ago.<br />

34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


we ARE climbing<br />

Jaan Roose - Red Bull Content Pool<br />

Roose took up slacklining 12 years ago and is well known for being the<br />

first and only athlete to do a double backflip (legs) while, in 2019, he<br />

won the World Slackline Masters in Munich, Germany.<br />

The three-time world champion, who has also worked as a stuntman<br />

in Hollywood movies like Assassin's Creed and taken part in a concert<br />

tour with Madonna, is a world-record holder in many unusual locations.<br />

After navigating a 28m line between Sarajevo skyscrapers last year,<br />

Roose headed next to Kazakhstan where he made a difficult 500m<br />

crossing at a height of 200 metres in 50°C with a strong wind.<br />

The 30-year-old revealed: "Bozzhyra is a challenge and is one of<br />

the most difficult, but at the same time, beautiful projects I have<br />

ever undertaken. When I saw photos of Bozzhyra I was impressed,<br />

but when I got here, I was blown away by the unearthly beauty of<br />

the place. The fact there used to be an ocean here really fuels the<br />

imagination."<br />

Many years ago, the Great Silk Road used to cross the Mangistau<br />

desert region and one of the ledges, which resembles a fortress, is<br />

even depicted on Kazakhstan's 1,000 tenge banknote.<br />

Roose added: "It's just a fantastic place. I'm glad I visited it and saw<br />

this unique location with my own eyes and was also able to combine<br />

physical ability with the beauty of nature."<br />

One of the group's main goals was to treat the unique nature of the<br />

area with care, making sure they observed all ecological requirements<br />

in the real historical location as the camera team spent five days in<br />

Mangistau Region at the site to film their piece and open this unique<br />

location.<br />

John Palmer at Sunnyside, Wanaka<br />

Photo: Tom Hoyle<br />

For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to providing<br />

you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear we literally stake our<br />

lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.<br />

Talgat Amanbayev, Board Chairman of NC Kazakh Tourism JSC, said:<br />

"Today, Mangistau Region is a priority tourist destination in Kazakhstan<br />

and one of the top five in terms of overseas visitors for the year.<br />

Mangistau is capable of becoming a real film-tourism centre, and as<br />

such, we are always ready to support initiatives that give exposure to<br />

its phenomenal beauty. At the same time, we will make sure it is treated<br />

with the care and attention it deserves to help preserve it."<br />

Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage<br />

STORES NATIONWIDE<br />

www.bivouac.co.nz<br />

36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


Above Left: Camping out at Joshua Tree National Park<br />

YOSEMITE<br />

*<br />

*<br />

JOSHUA<br />

TREE<br />

ZION<br />

**<br />

BRYCE<br />

CANYON<br />

*PAGE<br />

PARK<br />

*ESTES<br />

*OKEFENOKEE<br />

#VANLIFE<br />

THE BEST OF<br />

THE USOFA<br />

Before the world was in a semi-permanent state of<br />

lockdown, we used to satisfy our #vanlife each year<br />

exploring the States in our Roadbear RV. Over the<br />

years we have covered some fairly extensive miles and<br />

here’s our pick of the top places to go for an adventure.<br />

Above: No hiding the joy of that first glimps of Yosemite<br />

JOSHUA TREE<br />

YOSEMITE<br />

Joshua Tree National Park is in southern California (not far<br />

from Coachella Valley) and named for the twisted, bristled<br />

Joshua trees that litter the park.<br />

Climate: Joshua Tree is located in a sub-tropical desert so<br />

the winters are mild and the summers scorching hot with<br />

temperatures reaching mid-late 30’s throughout the summer<br />

months.<br />

Must do: Some of the best short hikes (around 1.5km) are<br />

Hidden Valley, Barker Dam, Arch Rock, and the Discovery<br />

Trail, all are very scenic.<br />

Best time to visit: As this is desert country, the best time to<br />

visit is during spring or autumn, when the temperatures are<br />

more tolerable (they still range between 21-29 degrees C).<br />

Why we loved it: The park was beautifully maintained and<br />

the campsites truly unique. Parked beneath rugged rock<br />

formations and Joshua trees, listening to wolves (might<br />

have been coyotes) while watching the dark night sky was a<br />

truly special experience.<br />

“There can be nothing in<br />

the world more beautiful<br />

than the Yosemite, and<br />

our people should see<br />

to it that they are<br />

preserved for their<br />

children and their<br />

children’s children<br />

forever, with their<br />

majestic beauty all<br />

unmarred.”<br />

~ Theodore Roosevelt<br />

Taken straight from their website, Yosemite is descirbed<br />

as “Not just a great valley, but a shrine to human<br />

foresight, the strength of granite, the power of glaciers,<br />

the persistence of life, and the tranquility of the High<br />

Sierra.” Couldn’t have put it better myself…<br />

The park is best known for it’s waterfalls and climbing<br />

walls but with nearly 1,200 square miles there is so<br />

much more to see from deep valleys, vast meadows,<br />

giant sequoias and a vast wilderness area.<br />

Climate: Yosemite experiences highs in summer up to<br />

30 degrees celsius and in winter of 8 with temperature<br />

dropping to 14 degrees in summer and into the minus<br />

during winter. Most of Yosemite is covered in snow<br />

between November and May.<br />

Best time to visit: Anytime between May and<br />

September means you will avoid 95% of the areas rain.<br />

However, as with all USA’s national parks, the peak of<br />

summer is always super busy so spring and autumn<br />

make for an ideal time.<br />

Above: Waking up to snowfall in Tioga Pass, Yosemite<br />

Must do: Visiting Yosemite Valley goes without saying, but<br />

if you have time, drive over Tioga pass (not open during<br />

winter). You get another perspective of the area and the<br />

scenery is just as impressive. We drove the pass during<br />

September and woke up the following morning to snow<br />

covered surrounds.<br />

Why we loved it: The grandeur. It’s hard to describe but<br />

driving into Yosemite Valley was awe inspiring. The granite<br />

walls have to be stood beside for you to really appreciate<br />

their size.<br />

38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//39


Above: Cliff-nicking in Estes Park, Colorado<br />

ESTES PARK, COLORADO<br />

Estes Park in northern Colorado, is considered “basecamp” for<br />

the Rocky Mountain National Park and the adventure capital of<br />

the region. There is every outdoor activity available from hiking,<br />

mountain climbing, mountain biking, rafting, fishing and skiing.<br />

Climate: During the summer temperatures range from highs<br />

around 23 degrees C and lows of 10 degrees. In the winter<br />

temperatures range from 2 degrees to as low as -10.<br />

PAGE & SURROUNDING AREA<br />

Page is a city in Arizona close to some<br />

spectacular scenic attractions: Lake<br />

Powell, Glen Canyon Dam, Horseshoe<br />

Bend, Antelope Canyon.<br />

Lake Powell straddles both Utah and<br />

Arizona and is a major vacation spot for<br />

boaties and fishermen. Although Lake<br />

Powell is officially an artificial reservoir<br />

do not let that put you off. Lake Powell is<br />

one of the most picturesque and intriguing<br />

places we have visited.<br />

Lake Powell’s main body stretches up<br />

the Glen Canyon but has also filled over<br />

90 side canyons. It also weaves its way<br />

up the Escalante River and San Juan<br />

River and merges with the Colorado<br />

River providing access to many natural<br />

geographic features, including Glen<br />

Canyon Dam and Rainbow Bridge, (one of<br />

the world’s largest natural bridges). Hire a<br />

houseboat for a few days, it’s a great way<br />

immerse yourself in the environment.<br />

Climate: Lake Powell area has extremes<br />

in temperature, dropping to a high of 8 o C<br />

in January to a scorching 37 o C in July.<br />

Must see:<br />

Horseshoe Bend: Just a short drive from<br />

Antelope Canyon is Horseshoe Bend. It<br />

is a part of the Colorado River that has<br />

naturally created a horseshoe bend,<br />

creating one of the most spectacular<br />

landscapes in Arizona. Horseshoe Bend<br />

is visible from high above the river bed,<br />

just pay for parking and walk to the most<br />

incredible viewing area. When we last<br />

visited in 2016 there were no railings<br />

and although it made for some incredible<br />

photos they have since installed a barrier<br />

at the main viewpoint. As of 2023, at least<br />

17 confirmed deaths have happened<br />

on the Angels Landing hike, and some<br />

sources put that figure closer to 20. Most<br />

of these were falls from steep cliffs.<br />

The best time to photograph Horseshoe<br />

Bend is either early morning or late<br />

afternoon due to the angle of the sun.<br />

Antelope Canyon: Known for its narrow<br />

rock walls, smoothed by water and wind,<br />

can be visited not far from Lake Powell but<br />

you have to take a guided tour. Well worth<br />

the money.<br />

Above: Horseshoe Bend, Arizona<br />

Above: Cliff jumping in Lake Powell<br />

Why we loved it: Lake Powell and the surrounding area<br />

is unique and incredibly different from anything we have in<br />

New Zealand. The canyon walls are a vibrant salmon colour<br />

and contrast against the green of the water. We spent a day<br />

on the lake fishing for bass and exploring the canyon walls,<br />

which also make for great jumping platforms.<br />

Must do: This area is a climbers paradise but if you want to<br />

experience the thrill of climbing without having the technical<br />

knowledge, then via ferrata is an excellent option. Set up and<br />

guided by Kent Mountain <strong>Adventure</strong> Center, the Estes Park Via<br />

Ferrata climbs roughly 600 vertical feet and includes a traverse<br />

with incredible views.<br />

Cliff camping: If you want to take your experience a step further,<br />

cliff camping is an option (but not for the faint hearted). Strapped<br />

to a harness your rappel down to a small portaledge secured<br />

to the cliff face where you will spend the night. An incredible<br />

experience!<br />

Best time to visit: The park is a year round destination, however<br />

to experience the most the area has to offer, June to September is<br />

your best option.<br />

Why we loved it: Although busy during the summer months, this<br />

town still holds a quaint feeling. It was also a great place to base<br />

ourselves while exploring the Rocky Mountain National Park.<br />

40//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//41


The hoodoos of Bryce Canyon<br />

Image by Ellis Dieperink<br />

BRYCE CANYON<br />

Not far from Zion is Bryce Canyon National<br />

Park. The limestone rock formations, created<br />

by erosion and rain, create an otherworldly<br />

landscape, completely different to it’s<br />

neighbouring Zion National Park. The tall<br />

skinny spires of limestone are called hoodos<br />

and Bryce Canyon boast more hoodoos than<br />

any other place in the world.<br />

Climate: Due of its high elevation, the<br />

weather at Bryce Canyon through autumn,<br />

winter, and spring can be highly variable,<br />

snowstorms in October are not unusual.<br />

From October to May, temperatures fall below<br />

zero at night with the coldest period being<br />

between December and February. Summer<br />

temperatures reach the early to mid 20’s.<br />

Must do: There are numerous hiking trails<br />

in the canyon, and you can find something<br />

to suit any level. We chose to explore the<br />

canyon on horseback. Not only did that give<br />

us a different perspective, it also allowed us<br />

to cover a larger area of the canyon that we<br />

could have achieved on foot alone.<br />

Stargaze - Due to the limited light pollution<br />

in Bryce Canyon, it is the perfect place for<br />

stargazing. In 2019, the International Dark-<br />

Sky Association designated Bryce Canyon<br />

and International Dark Sky Park. Although<br />

you can stargaze on your own, the park also<br />

offers several ranger programs offering 20<br />

minute constellation tours.<br />

Best time to visit: Although the summer<br />

months offer the warmest weather, Bryce<br />

Canyon is pretty spectacular to see during<br />

the winter months too. But if you want to<br />

participate in the ranger activities then you’ll<br />

need to visit between May and September.<br />

Why we loved it: It was like nothing we<br />

had seen before and as we explored on<br />

horseback all the was missing was John<br />

Wayne and a few Indians and we could have<br />

been on the set of any cowboy movie.<br />

On horseback is a great way to explore Bryce Canyon<br />

Image by Danika Perkinson<br />

ZION NATIONAL PARK<br />

Zion National Park is located in the<br />

South East corner of Utah, a state<br />

known for its rich reddish and tancoloured<br />

Navajo Sandstone that have<br />

been eroded by the Virgin River.<br />

Horse Ranch Mountain is the highest<br />

point in the park at 2,660m, and Coal<br />

Pits Wash is the lowest at 1,117m.<br />

Climate: In the summer months (July-<br />

September) temperatures average<br />

around 30 0 C. Due to the nature of the<br />

park, evening temperatures do drop<br />

considerable even in summer (down<br />

to 12 0 C). Winter months have higher<br />

levels of rainfall (and snow). Spring<br />

and autumn temps average around<br />

20 0 C.<br />

Must do: There are numerous hikes<br />

in the area, the most famous are<br />

the Narrows which is accessible to<br />

everyone but as a result can get very<br />

crowded, and Angels Landing.<br />

The Narrows is an 8-15km round<br />

trip, depending on how far you want<br />

to walk, and you will be walking in the<br />

water for most of the day. Good hiking<br />

shoes are recommended<br />

Right: The Narrows,<br />

Zion National Park<br />

Image by Karan Chawla<br />

Angels Landing is a 8.6km roundtrip,<br />

not for the faint of heart. It’s a<br />

spectacular return hike and scramble<br />

to the summit of Angels Landing, do<br />

not go if you have a fear of heights.<br />

It is considered one of the most<br />

spectacular day hikes in the world.<br />

The hike climbs up roughly 1,500<br />

vertical feet along the narrow fin of<br />

stone that reaches a top elevation<br />

of 5,790 feet. There have been 13<br />

known deaths from falls at Angels<br />

Landing since 2000, so yes, this is a<br />

hike to take seriously.<br />

Best time to visit: To avoid<br />

the crowds and the scorching<br />

temperatures, visit in March, April,<br />

October, or November. The busiest<br />

time in the park is June and July with<br />

over 500,000 monthly visitors.<br />

Why we loved it: Walking in the<br />

valleys of the rich red canyons of Zion<br />

is a feeling I will never forget. It was<br />

the first time that I really felt the power<br />

and wonder of nature.<br />

Both Zion and Bryce canyon offer great outdoor activities for all ages. For<br />

canyoneering and rappelling, Zion beats Bryce. You'll find world-class hiking<br />

in either Park, but in Zion you can find yourself hiking through streams or on<br />

sandstone ledges, like Angels Landing – one of the scariest hikes in the world!<br />

42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


Okefenokee is a haven for alligators and they seem to be everywhere! Above, the view from our punt...<br />

"It’s a world<br />

wonder — this wild<br />

botanical garden<br />

serves as a haven<br />

for alligators<br />

and black bears,<br />

woodpeckers and<br />

ibises, bitterns and<br />

cranes."<br />

~ Janisse Ray<br />

OKEFENOKEE SWAMP<br />

The swamp straddles the Georgia-<br />

Florida line, however access to<br />

the swamp is from Georgia. The<br />

Okefenokee Swamp is a shallow<br />

wetland and is considered one of the<br />

seven natural wonders of Georgia.<br />

There are a few access points to the<br />

swamp, we visited from Stephen Foster<br />

State Park entrance where we hired a<br />

small<br />

Climate: This is a semi-tropical climate<br />

zone with hot and humid summer<br />

temperatures and winter temperature<br />

drops to around 11 degrees C.<br />

Must do: Hire one of the punts from<br />

the visitor centre and explore the<br />

swamp. You get given a map and then<br />

self drive around the swamp. There are<br />

so many alligators to see but also keep<br />

an eye out for the other wild life in the<br />

area; racoons, boars, otters and more.<br />

Best time to visit: Between late spring<br />

and early summer the weather is at its<br />

best and plants are in bloom making<br />

it a colourful and beautiful place. Also<br />

the animals are more active this time of<br />

year. To see the wildlife, early mornings<br />

and late evenings are the best time.<br />

Why we loved it: I have never seen so<br />

many alligators in my life. They were<br />

everywhere, they were massive, and<br />

they were just swimming in the water<br />

beside our small punt.<br />

44//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong><br />

Part of the thl global travel system


TROUT<br />

FISHING<br />

FUELLED BY<br />

NATURE<br />

Words and images by Dion James<br />

Phrases that are used to describe trout fishing in<br />

Aotearoa are; adventure, peace, and tranquillity,<br />

but not always in that order.<br />

Walking along the quiet riverbank, you can<br />

hear the subtle sounds of a trout feeding on the<br />

surface. Your eyes now peer across the crystalclear<br />

water for any sign of that wild, unsuspecting<br />

trout. Yet it is easy to be distracted by the calm<br />

whispers of the wind, bird songs and the subtle<br />

noises found only in New Zealand's untouched<br />

environment miles from nowhere. Even the snowcapped<br />

mountains add to the distraction and make<br />

up a stunning backdrop, yet you are focused on<br />

the trout.<br />

After finally ensuring where the trout lies, you<br />

make that cast and hold your breath. As you watch<br />

a big trout rise to your floating fly, breaking the<br />

surface water, mouth wide, all that serenity, in an<br />

instant, turns to action!<br />

Just as easily, you could find yourself on a calm<br />

still-water lake surrounded by lush native forests.<br />

The silence is deafening, and then across the oillike<br />

water comes small bow waves towards your<br />

fly as you slowly retrieve. Suddenly, the serenity<br />

vanishes as quickly as your line tightens, the water<br />

erupts as a trout breaks the surface, peeling the<br />

line from the grasp of your hands, and the contest<br />

begins. Trout fishing is that juncture position of<br />

moments, sometimes hours of quiet serenity<br />

impacted by moments of complete drama.<br />

What I personally enjoy the most about hunting<br />

trout is the challenge. Seeing a massive fish and<br />

then planning, which could take half an hour or<br />

so before I move in. Stalking in on it like a tiger<br />

to a deer, getting into a position close enough to<br />

get a cast and then delivering it. Sometimes you<br />

only get one shot, and the cast must be pinpoint<br />

perfect. Then once that is achieved, if you are<br />

lucky enough for the fish to eat your fly, it all turns<br />

to chaos. The fish thrashes around, and they will<br />

take you for a wade and run down the river. Here,<br />

it requires a lot of skill, experience and, as with<br />

all fishing, a certain amount of luck. Eventually, if<br />

you get the trout under some control and it makes<br />

it to your net after the contest of the fight. Then<br />

there is a moment of pure joy and satisfaction that<br />

your planning, practice, skill and some luck came<br />

together, which is absolute fishing gold!<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//47


Clockwise from top left: A back country rainbow trout taken in a prestine environment. / A tailing brown trout working the top for food<br />

on a stillwater lake / A typical sight of a Rainbow trout as it rises to the surface for insects floating down stream./ My Great Uncle<br />

Hoka Downs pictured with Zane Grey from the Book "Tales from an Anglers Eldorado"<br />

These are just a few draw cards on the<br />

sport of trout fishing and why I love it,<br />

mainly the places it takes you and the<br />

people you meet. Plus the skills it requires<br />

and the challenges.<br />

Plus, it is also a way of coming together;<br />

fishing with buddies on annual trips is a<br />

way of getting together with like-minded<br />

mates. We also fish as a family, my wife<br />

and children have caught trout fly fishing,<br />

and my son Reign caught his first at 4<br />

years old! It is not just the fishing but<br />

sharing the environment and the beauty<br />

of the places trout fishing can take you.<br />

Plus, there is the bonus that trout is also<br />

a culinary delicacy; you can't buy it here<br />

in New Zealand. You have to catch it, and<br />

on occasion, I’ll take some for the whanau<br />

who enjoy it.<br />

I was raised in a small forestry town east<br />

of Rotorua, which was surrounded by<br />

rivers and lakes. As a young fella, my<br />

father used to take me out hunting deer<br />

on the weekends. Then during the day<br />

after school, I would bike down to the local<br />

river searching for trout. My passion grew<br />

each time I went out on an adventure<br />

and even biked to locations nearly 30 km<br />

away. We are fortunate here in Aotearoa<br />

48//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong><br />

to be surrounded by stunning freshwater<br />

fisheries. It’s no wonder New Zealand is<br />

regarded as one of the top trout fishing<br />

destinations in the world.<br />

Trout fishing has been in my heritage for<br />

well over a century. My great grandfather,<br />

Morehu and my great uncle Hoka Downs<br />

were once pioneers for guiding for trout.<br />

They set up a business near Turangi,<br />

where my mum’s indigenous side is from.<br />

They started on family-owned land called<br />

the Kowhai flats, perched on the mighty<br />

Tongariro River banks. It is here they<br />

guided the likes of the Duke and Duchess<br />

of Wales and a famous American fishing<br />

writer named Zane Grey, who mentions<br />

my great ancestor Hoka Downs in his book<br />

“Tales of an anglers Eldorado”. This book<br />

is instrumental in putting the Tongariro<br />

River on the world map as a mecca for<br />

overseas fishermen to visit.<br />

This fishing linage from my forebears led<br />

me to be a trout fishing guide myself. I<br />

was based out of Rotorua and did it for a<br />

few years. I have helped tourists and kiwis<br />

alike have an experience they will never<br />

forget, from catching their first-ever trout to<br />

catching their biggest. The joy of guiding<br />

is not about catching fish (that does help),<br />

but it is witnessing the pure joy and delight<br />

from clients who were so thrilled to be<br />

in that location and to catch their first or<br />

biggest fish. That is something to cherish,<br />

and I will have those memories forever.<br />

Over the years of fishing and guiding, I<br />

have formed some great relationships with<br />

people who are now lifelong friends and<br />

also a few top tackle companies. I became<br />

a sponsored ambassador for a New<br />

Zealand based family fishing company<br />

called Kilwell Sports, which distributes<br />

Orvis Fly Fishing rods and Scientific<br />

Anglers fly lines. I am lucky enough to<br />

test some of the very best fishing gear on<br />

the planet, which in turn has helped me<br />

significantly with my catch rates.<br />

If you want to see more of what I capture<br />

on my adventures from around the<br />

country, you can find me on Facebook and<br />

Instagram titled ‘Fueled by nature’.<br />

Dion uses:<br />

www.kilwell.co.nz<br />

www.scientificanglers.com<br />

www.orvis.com


M<br />

MASTERCLASS<br />

WITH SEAN DAVEY<br />

This is ex-world champion big wave surfer; Jamie<br />

Sterling surfing at huge perfect Pipe.<br />

"I’ve always preferred to “shoot differently” so I shot<br />

this picture on a 600mm lens at just 1/8th of a second<br />

at f32. It takes a highly steady hand to pan with the<br />

action at such a slow shutter speed. Considering<br />

that most photographers are shooting this at around<br />

1/000th of a second, this exposure captures 30 times<br />

more time and movement. Thus, it looks like he is<br />

going so incredibly fast."<br />

Instagram@seandaveyphotography<br />

www.seandavey.com<br />

50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


usiness<br />

Go against the flow.<br />

inspire & enable<br />

Since it’s humble beginnings,<br />

paddleboarding has grown to great levels<br />

and is enjoyed by everyone of any age<br />

and ability in just about every corner of<br />

the globe, presenting an opportunity to<br />

make it more accessible, more fun and<br />

more inclusive than ever before. The aim<br />

is simple. To help customers get out there<br />

and do more of what they love, for longer.<br />

Red Paddle Co’s mission is to inspire<br />

and enable adventure through innovative,<br />

environmentally responsible products<br />

that never compromise on performance,<br />

safety and reliability. Red carries out<br />

extensive due diligence on all suppliers<br />

to ensure quality and ethics go hand in<br />

hand, ensuring products are responsibly<br />

sourced.<br />

The Red range consists of 28 models of<br />

inflatable paddleboards covering surfing,<br />

touring, white water, travel, adventure and<br />

family fun. It’s about making so many of<br />

our lakes, rivers and beaches accessible.<br />

Boards are designed for disassembly<br />

for ongoing maintenance and hence,<br />

longevity of your board. Red Paddle<br />

Co have a customer experience team<br />

dedicated to providing the best advice,<br />

recommendations and solutions to help<br />

keep your gear in tip-top condition.<br />

Red have spent over 14 years learning,<br />

refining and testing new techniques to<br />

tailor precise performance and consistent<br />

characteristics into their boards. Their<br />

strategy is to always improve and better<br />

the products, problem solve and overcome<br />

barriers, test all products before launch,<br />

never compromise on design which means<br />

it must be the best.<br />

Red Paddle Co boards are now sold<br />

in over 60 countries worldwide and<br />

their design approach ensures that the<br />

boards are built to last and on average,<br />

take 72 hours to build each and every<br />

board. Award winning and patented<br />

technology offers unrivalled performance<br />

and stiffness, which is backed by<br />

their worldwide 5-year warranty when<br />

registered online.<br />

“You haven’t tried paddleboarding until you<br />

have tried a Red”<br />

Available throughout NZ from certified Red<br />

Paddle Co retailers.<br />

www.red.equipment/pages/find-a-shop<br />

Our amphibious outcast is water friendly and friendly to water.<br />

Transforming polluted water and air with BLOOM EVA,<br />

a performance foam that uses 10% recycled algae biomass.<br />

Available in many colours for Men, Women and Kid’s.<br />

merrell.co.nz<br />

52//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


ironskinn Surf Pants AU$850.00<br />

Get out on the water and live to tell the tale.<br />

ironskinn makes world-leading ocean armor that is<br />

tough, light-weight and flexible. Built to protect you.<br />

Shark-bite, Foil and Reef Resistant Ocean Armor.<br />

WWW.IRONSKINN.COM<br />

Merrell Hydro Moc $109.99<br />

Built with the outdoors in mind, the Hydro<br />

Moc has taken the world by storm. This<br />

amphibious outcast is water friendly and<br />

friendly to water. Transforming polluted<br />

water and air with BLOOM performance<br />

EVA. Made using advanced construction<br />

techniques, this easy on / easy off shoe is<br />

more durable than others of its kind.<br />

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ<br />

Red Paddle Co Sport Range $2,199.95 - $2,499.95<br />

For paddlers who are looking for speed and<br />

performance, the Sport Inflatable SUP Range offers a<br />

step up from the Ride family - available in a choice of<br />

colours….purple or classic blue. Imagine how excited<br />

you'll feel unrolling your new board in anticipation of<br />

enjoying the open water.<br />

WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT<br />

Red Waterproof Cool Bag 18 & 30L<br />

from $329.95<br />

With thermal lock insulation and Armour<br />

Tech fabric, drinks stay colder for longer,<br />

keeps water out, ice frozen for up to 72<br />

hours and a tension system secures the<br />

bag to your board.<br />

WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT<br />

Red Pro Change Robe Evo $349.95<br />

Uniquely breathable with the softest lining,<br />

moisture wicking and super warm yet<br />

lightweight providing maximum warmth<br />

whilst outdoors, this premium robe<br />

ensures users stay dry and warm.<br />

WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT<br />

This is UNLTD.<br />

• FULL FLAVOURED NON-ALCOHOLIC IPA<br />

• 13 calories per bottle/can, one of the<br />

lowest-calorie beers on the market.<br />

• low in carbs, rich in vitamin b12, vegan<br />

friendly and low gluten<br />

• brewed with a special brewing technique<br />

that restricts the alcohol to a tiny 0.5%<br />

ABV, but keeps the flavour at 100% proof.<br />

54//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong><br />

Red Waterproof Kit Bag 40 & 60L<br />

from $249.95<br />

A waterproof duffel and backpack,<br />

with stitched and taped seams,<br />

heavy-duty straps and pockets<br />

made from strong rip stock material<br />

that is abrasion resistant.<br />

WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT<br />

New Zealand’s first online store solely dedicated to<br />

Non -Alcoholic adult drinks. No matter your reason...we’ve got you covered:<br />

Beers - Wines - Spirits - RTD’s - Ciders - All delivered to your door.<br />

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz


PROVEN<br />

TO SAVE LIVES<br />

cotopaxi Travel Cube Bundle – Del Día $99.99<br />

Made with repurposed materials, these<br />

simple organisers store clothes, toiletries,<br />

and other must-have items. Receive all<br />

three travel cube sizes in one colourful<br />

bundle.<br />

WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ<br />

sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar power bank $129.00<br />

Built tough for the outdoors and with a massive<br />

battery capacity you can keep all your devices<br />

charged no matter where your adventure<br />

takes you.<br />

WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ<br />

PLB1<br />

Personal<br />

Locator<br />

Beacon<br />

The World’s<br />

smallest PLB<br />

30% (typ) smaller 7 year battery life<br />

cotopaxi Bataan 3L Hip Pack – Del Día $69.99<br />

Travel easy this summer & keep your<br />

necessities secure and close at hand.<br />

Made from 100% repurposed fabric,<br />

each Bataan is sustainably designed.<br />

WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ<br />

exped Centrum 30 Pack $169.99<br />

Sleek, minimalistic pack designed<br />

for urban commuting. Ergonomically<br />

padded shoulder straps and a fine<br />

thermo-molded back for comfort.<br />

Features include a top zip that<br />

opens to two spacious mesh<br />

pockets and a laptop sleeve sized<br />

for 15" notebooks.<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />

Crocs Classic Realtree $99.99<br />

Wildly comfortable clog offering<br />

the signature comfort of Croslite<br />

material with the rugged style of an<br />

authentic camouflage print. Wide,<br />

roomy footbeds with heel-hugging<br />

straps. Croslite material for<br />

maximum lightweight cushioning.<br />

WWW.CROCS.CO.NZ<br />

Crocs Classic All Terrain Clog $109.99<br />

Rugged lug outsoles with enhanced<br />

tread for increased traction and support.<br />

Adjustable turbo heel straps for a<br />

snug, accommodating fit. Easy to clean<br />

Croslite foam material and quick to<br />

dry. Available in more colours.<br />

WWW.CROCS.CO.NZ<br />

66 channel GPS<br />

– Fast accurate positioning<br />

EPIRB1<br />

Essential<br />

for safe<br />

boating<br />

The World’s Most<br />

Compact Emergency<br />

Position Indicating<br />

Radio Beacon<br />

RAB escape kit bags 50, 70 and 90 litres $169.95-$199.95<br />

Focusing on lightweight durability, the Escape Kit Bags are durable, have a<br />

water repellent outer, a tough Ballistic base to withstand the rigours of travel<br />

and feature a handle that converts to a harness for easy haulage.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERSSTORE.NZ<br />

osprey Ultralight Packing Cube Set $59.99<br />

Make it easier to organize and pack<br />

your gear when travelling so that you<br />

can spend more time enjoying your<br />

experience.<br />

• Convenient grab handle<br />

• Zipper secures contents<br />

• Set includes a small, a medium and a<br />

large cell<br />

• Available in two colours<br />

Find a Stockist:<br />

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />

osprey Arcane Card Wallet $49.99<br />

Our Arcane Card Wallet, with six<br />

dedicated card slots and a central<br />

slot for folded bills, features the same<br />

beautifully sustainable and durable<br />

fabrics our Arcane Family is renowned<br />

for. Its thin design keeps a low profile,<br />

so you can ditch any bulky wallet that's<br />

been weighing you down. Constructed<br />

with a recycled polyester fabric that<br />

is refined to the touch yet durable for<br />

everyday wear.<br />

Find a Stockist:<br />

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />

osprey Ultralight Roll Organizer $49.99<br />

Whether you’re outdoors for an<br />

afternoon hill walking or on a monthlong<br />

expedition to the far-flung<br />

reaches of Nepal ensuring your kit is<br />

organized and protected is essential.<br />

Find a Stockist:<br />

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />

LAB0684<br />

30% (typ) smaller 10 year battery life<br />

5 year warranty 406-link via<br />

satellite to<br />

Emergency Services<br />

www.rescueme.co.nz<br />

Lowe alpine Escape Tour Bag 55 + 15L<br />

$459.95<br />

The Escape Tour is a rear-access,<br />

loaded with features 55-litre<br />

backpack and detachable 15-litre<br />

daypack, offering volume and<br />

flexibility making adventure fun,<br />

safe and simple. Unisex options<br />

available.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERSSTORE.NZ<br />

Chickfly Bamboo Leggings High Rise<br />

or Low Rise (USD $119.00)<br />

Chickfly leggings are made<br />

with soft, strong, stretchy<br />

and sustainable bamboo<br />

fabric, coloured with organic<br />

dyes. Our patented fly is held<br />

together by tension, creating<br />

a seamless, flattering, soft,<br />

and easy-to-use feature in the<br />

most comfortable and stylish<br />

black legging that every<br />

woman needs not only for<br />

style but for convenience and<br />

functionality.<br />

WWW.CHICKFLY.COM<br />

rescueme PLB1 $589.98<br />

Wherever you are, at sea, on land,<br />

the rescueME PLB1 provides the<br />

reassurance that global emergency<br />

services can be alerted by the press of<br />

a button.<br />

The rescueMe PLB1 can be operated<br />

with a single hand in even the most<br />

challenging situations. A simple springloaded<br />

flap covers the activation button<br />

preventing inadvertent use. rescueME<br />

PLB1 works with the only officially<br />

recognised worldwide dedicated search<br />

and rescue satellite network (operated<br />

by Cospas Sarsat). As this is funded by<br />

governments there are NO CHARGES<br />

to use this service.<br />

Available through all leading sports and<br />

recreation retailers and online.<br />

WWW.RESCUEME.CO.NZ<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//57


kiwi camping Mamaku Trek 0°C Sleeping Bag $119.00<br />

The Mamaku Trek sleeping bag is ideal<br />

for trekking or camping adventures. The<br />

semi-tapered design features a drawstringadjustable<br />

contoured hood that packs down<br />

into the handy compression bag for easy<br />

pack and carry.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />

kiwi camping Rover Lite 3cm Self-Inflating Mat $109.00<br />

Compact to pack and carry, the Rover Lite selfinflates<br />

in minutes. The tapered design can fit in<br />

a sleeping bag, 1830mm long and 550mm wide.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />

sea to summit Aeros Ultralight Pillow $59.99<br />

The Aeros Ultralight pillow has been<br />

refined from three design principles to<br />

be light, compact, and comfortable.<br />

• Curved internal baffles create<br />

contours that cradle your head<br />

• Inflate pillow in a couple of breaths<br />

with the multi-function valve<br />

• Easily secured to any Sea to Summit<br />

sleeping mat through the Pillow Lock<br />

System<br />

Find a Stockist:<br />

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />

Klymit Insulated Static V $259.95<br />

A comfortable backcountry pad<br />

providing winter insulation and allseason<br />

comfort, the Insulated Static V<br />

packs light and small, and delivers an<br />

R-value of 4.4.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

exped ULTRA 7R Mummy Sleeping Mat $369.99<br />

Insulated with responsibly-sourced down<br />

for comfort on your adventures yeararound.<br />

Lightweight, compact packed<br />

size, a recycled 20D ripstop face fabric<br />

and 9cm-thick chambers. Certified carbon<br />

neutral by myclimate 183cm long.<br />

R-value 7.1. 620g<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />

Kiwi Camping Pukeko Hiker Tent $249.00<br />

A spacious hiker tent that’s easy to pitch and<br />

keeps you warm and dry even in the worst<br />

conditions. Featuring dual pitch design, 4000mm<br />

aqua rating and tri pegs.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />

Kiwi Camping Weka 2 Hiker Tent $339.00<br />

Kiwi Camping's most popular hiker tent with double-sided entry, sturdy<br />

vestibules, and a user-friendly design. With a fly that handles rain and<br />

snow, the Weka 2 is perfect for hiking adventures.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />

58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


exped Trekkinglite -5 Down Sleeping Bag $549.99<br />

Excellent warmth-to-weight ratio and<br />

a minimal packed size for extended<br />

adventures from spring through to autumn<br />

and an excellent choice for cold sleepers<br />

in summer. Supple, durable shell, a<br />

next-to-skin comfortable lining and 580g<br />

of 700-fill, high-quality European duck<br />

down insulation. Proportional differential<br />

cut, multi-chambered footbox, and plush,<br />

adjustable draft collar. 1150g<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />

sea to summit Expander Liner $59.99<br />

The Expander liner is made from a<br />

premium stretch knit poly-cotton, making<br />

it super stretchy and even warmer than a<br />

standard cotton weave liner.<br />

• Premium stretch knit fabric that can<br />

expand twice its width.<br />

• Luxuriously comfortable to sleep in.<br />

• Extends the life of a sleeping bag by<br />

keeping it clean<br />

• Anti-Microbial protection keeps liner<br />

fresh, hygienic and odour-free<br />

• Double folded and reinforced seams<br />

• Easy care, machine washable<br />

• Standard rectangular shape<br />

Find a Stockist:<br />

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />

kiwi camping boost lED light with Powerbank $89.99<br />

Bright LED light with power bank to illuminate<br />

your tent and charge devices on the go.<br />

Features 11 light modes including SOS<br />

signal, built-in magnets and hanging hook.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />

Klymit pillow x $59.95<br />

A supportive, ultralight and<br />

comfortable camping pillow,<br />

featuring the self-centering<br />

X design which positions<br />

and cradles your head for<br />

supportive, stable comfort.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

GLERUPS HONEY RUBBER AND BLACK RUBBER SHOE $189.00<br />

When you are camping, you need a shoe that is<br />

good on all surfaces including inside the tent or<br />

the hut. Made from 100% natural wool, glerups<br />

provides an instant comfy at home feeling. They<br />

are light, versatile, and well worth the space in<br />

your backpack. Get natural, get cosy and get<br />

yourself some glerups.<br />

WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ<br />

Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove & Pot Set<br />

$149.00<br />

For quick boiling when you need<br />

it! A super lightweight aluminium<br />

stove with quick boil technology,<br />

piezo ignition and accessories<br />

all packaged in a handy mesh<br />

carry bag.<br />

WWW.GASMATE.CO.NZ<br />

Vango Krypton UL2 Tent $999.99<br />

2-person tent for extreme adventures,<br />

suitable for the harshest of conditions.<br />

Free-standing, strong geodesic<br />

construction. Offset height allows room<br />

for sitting and streamlined, wind-shielding<br />

shape. Twin doors. Packaged weight 2.1kg<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />

60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


merrell Moab 3 $229.00<br />

For over a 15 years, the Merrell® Moab has been the choice of hikers when a<br />

choice needs to be made. Famous for its out-of-the-box comfort, durability and<br />

all-purpose versatility. The new Moab 3 features a new more supportive insole,<br />

a softer more cushioned midsole, and a best-in-class Vibram® outsole. This<br />

newest generation is the most environmen-tally friendly Moab ever, utilising<br />

recycled materials in construction.<br />

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ<br />

merrell Bravada 2 Eco $239.00<br />

This women-specific hiking favourite is made even more eco-friendly<br />

with added recycled content throughout. Treat your feet to a trail-ready<br />

versatile hiking sneaker that hugs the ankle. Made with a sticky rubber<br />

sole and rock plate, it provides underfoot confidence and safety on all<br />

types of hiking terrain.<br />

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ<br />

SALEWA WILDFIRE CANVAS $279.90<br />

The breathable recycled cotton and hemp canvas upper is protected<br />

by a full 360° TPU rand. Our 3F system with nylon-coated Kevlar®<br />

cables provides additional support and greater stability at the heel, while<br />

ensuring a precise fit. The dual density eco Ortholite® footbed promotes<br />

superior cushioning, and the Pomoca outsole offers secure grip during<br />

light hiking approach activities.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 305 g (pictured) (W) 256 g<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 GTX $369.90<br />

The Alp Trainer 2 GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric upper<br />

with a protective rubber rand for protection against rock, scree and<br />

debris. Featuring a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort lining for optimal<br />

waterproofing and breathability. The EVA midsole provides superior<br />

cushioning and excellent comfort for a technical shoe. Climbing Lacing<br />

right to the toe allows for a more precise fit, while the Vibram® Alpine<br />

Hiking outsole covers a wide spectrum of mountain terrain.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 470 g (pictured) (W) 370 g<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

SALEWA WILDFIRE 2 $329.90<br />

Engineered for technical terrain, the Wildfire 2 is a lightweight, agile and<br />

precise tech approach shoe with a breathable recycled synthetic mesh<br />

upper, and a 360° protective rand. It’s equipped with climbing lacing for<br />

fine adjustment in the toe-area and a lateral net system with Kevlar®<br />

cables for better overall performance and sensitivity. The POMOCA®<br />

outsole with Butylic compound rubber is designed for precision and<br />

sensitivity in mixed mountain terrain and ensures good grip on rock in<br />

both dry and wet conditions.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 355 g (W) 305 g (pictured)<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX® $329.90<br />

Made for alpine hiking and long backpacking routes – our lightweight,<br />

comfortable and supportive mid-cut boot performs well on rock and<br />

technical terrain. The waterproof, breathable GORE-TEX® lining makes it<br />

ideal for 3-season use, from higher activity levels in summer, to rain, mud<br />

or lingering snow.<br />

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 565 g (W) 465 g (pictured)<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

SALEWA RAPACE GTX $579.90<br />

The Rapace GTX is a lightweight mountaineering boot with a hard-wearing<br />

nubuck upper with waterproof breathable GORE-TEX® protection. The<br />

3F System provides ankle support, flexibility and a perfect fit. Our Bilight<br />

TPU technology and Nylon + 27% Fiberglass in the midsole ensures an<br />

ergonomic hold and allows the use of semi-automatic crampons. There’s<br />

a full rubber rand for protection against rock and scree, and the Vibram<br />

WTC outsole has an aggressive tread pattern that gives good traction yet<br />

provides a natural feel and secure grip on mixed terrain.<br />

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 740 g (pictured) (W) 615 g<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


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wwwwwwwww...ccoootooopaxi...ccooo...nz<br />

Seeeeeeeek<br />

Adveeeentureeee.<br />

Exppppppllloooooooorrrrrrrreeeeeeee fuuuuuuurrrrrrrrtttttttthhhhheeeeeeeerrrrrrrr tttttttthhhhhiiiiiiiisssssss sssssssuuuuuuummmmmmmmmmeeeeeeeerrrrrrrr wiiiiiiiitttttttthhhhh oooooooouuuuuuurrrrrrrr<br />

eeethiiccaaalllly ddeeesssiiggneeedd Paaaccksss & Baaaggsss..<br />

Outdoor Research Women’s Echo Printed<br />

Hoody $119.99<br />

Slim-fit, made with moisture-wicking,<br />

breathable, quick-drying recycled<br />

fabric and features long sleeves and<br />

hood, with pony port. Odour control<br />

technology, anti-chafe flat seam<br />

construction and a UPF 20<br />

sun protection rating.<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />

cotopaxi Do Good 5-Panel Hat $49.99<br />

A classic five-panel hat made from 100% cotton. It shares<br />

our Do Good mission to make an impact, and inspires<br />

others to do the same.<br />

WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ<br />

MERRELL Tencel Long Sleeve Tee $99.00<br />

Your anything but basic, basic long<br />

sleeved tee made from plant-based<br />

Tencel fibers for a super soft luxurious<br />

feel, moisture wicking, anti odour and with<br />

UPF protection to keep you outside or<br />

moving for longer.<br />

WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ<br />

Patagonia PFC-Free Torrentshell Jacket $249.99<br />

Simple and unpretentious, Patagonia's trusted<br />

Torrentshell 3L Jacket uses 3-layer H2No®<br />

Performance Standard technology for exceptional<br />

waterproof/breathable performance, all-day comfort<br />

and long-lasting waterproof durability. What's<br />

more, this season, all Torrentshell products have<br />

been redesigned to be fully PFC-free. Fair Trade<br />

Certified sewn, this travel staple is available in W's<br />

and M's styles in a wide range of colours.<br />

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ<br />

RAB Arc Eco Jacket $469.95<br />

The waterproof and breathable Arc Eco Jacket is made with recycled<br />

Pertex® Shield Revolve and featuring an adjustable mountain hood,<br />

drawcord hem, A-line chest pockets.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

64//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong><br />

RAB Nexus Pull-on $139.95<br />

The Nexus Pull-on is a staple go-to,<br />

lightweight technical mid-layer made with<br />

Thermic stretch fleece for mobility and<br />

comfort with a YKK® chest zip and pocket.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ


ONE FOR THE ROAD - proceed with caution amber<br />

ale $7.95<br />

This all season medium-bodied lager<br />

showcases both malt and hops. It follows<br />

with a toasty malt character with only a<br />

subtle hop bitterness.


FEED YOUR ADDICTION<br />

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and<br />

development in online stores over the past 5 years.<br />

We are dedicating these pages to our client’s online stores; some<br />

you will be able to buy from, some you will be able drool over. Buy,<br />

compare, research and prepare, these online stores are a great way to<br />

feed your adventure addiction.<br />

Waterfront accommodation on Nydia Track, Marlborough, NZ<br />

www.onthetracklodge.nz<br />

Meals bursting with flavour, combined with home compostable<br />

packaging, means you really can have it all in the mountains.<br />

Designed by ‘foodies’ for maximum plant-based deliciousness<br />

and wrapped in earth positive, lightweight, packable pouches.<br />

www.localdehy.co.nz<br />

Never have a dead phone<br />

again! Because now you can<br />

charge straight from the Sun<br />

with SunSaver. Perfect for<br />

that week-long hike, day at<br />

the beach, or back-up for any<br />

emergency. Check us out at:<br />

www.sunsaver.co.nz<br />

Building versatile and reliable gear so you<br />

can adventure with purpose.<br />

www.keaoutdoors.com<br />

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor<br />

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best<br />

brands across New Zealand & the globe.<br />

www.bivouac.co.nz<br />

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel<br />

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &<br />

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.<br />

www.merrell.co.nz<br />

Temerature. Taste. Transport.<br />

Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle.<br />

www.hydroflask.co.nz<br />

Norsk designs and builds ice coolers that without fail,<br />

will not fail. Perfect for your hard out adventures.<br />

Free shipping within New Zealand.<br />

www.norsk.co.nz<br />

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment<br />

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place<br />

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents,<br />

outdoor clothing and more.<br />

www.livingsimply.co.nz<br />

Our mission is to produce<br />

the best quality beers<br />

possible across a range of<br />

flavours and styles and to<br />

have fun doing it!<br />

www.dcbrewing.co.nz<br />

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional<br />

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.<br />

www.patagonia.co.nz<br />

www.glerups.co.nz<br />

glerups shoes, slippers<br />

and boots are known for<br />

their exceptional comfort<br />

and unique design.<br />

Over the years we have<br />

perfected the wool mix<br />

by blending Gotland<br />

wool with quality wool<br />

from New Zealand<br />

farmers.<br />

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.<br />

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

Stocking an extensive range<br />

of global outdoor adventure<br />

brands for your next big<br />

adventure. See them for travel,<br />

tramping, trekking, alpine and<br />

lifestyle clothing and gear.<br />

www.outfittersstore.nz<br />

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,<br />

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, <strong>Adventure</strong> Tents,<br />

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.<br />

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />

Sustainably designed outdoor gear that fuels both<br />

adventure and global change, by dedicating a<br />

percentage of revenues to nonprofits working to improve<br />

the human condition. www.cotopaxi.com<br />

Supplying tents and<br />

camping gear to Kiwis<br />

for over 30 years, Kiwi<br />

Camping are proud to<br />

be recognised as one of<br />

the most trusted outdoor<br />

brands in New Zealand.<br />

www.kiwicamping.co.nz<br />

Our very own online store where<br />

you will find hard goods to keep you<br />

equipped for any adventure.<br />

www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz<br />

With stores in Clyde and<br />

Cromwell, Bike it Now! is<br />

your access point to the<br />

Central Otago Bike trials: T<br />

> Lake Dunstan Trail<br />

> Otago Central Rail Trail<br />

> Roxbourgh Gorge<br />

and more...<br />

New Zealand’s first online<br />

store solely dedicated to<br />

Non Alcoholic adult drinks.<br />

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz<br />

www.ironskinn.com<br />

www.bikeitnow.co.nz


t r a v e l<br />

LIVEABOARD DIVING:<br />

A GREAT WAY TO SEE THE WORLD<br />

Do you LOVE waking up on the water?<br />

Want to see a different place every day<br />

on your holiday? Want to spend a week<br />

with a group of like-minded individuals?<br />

As a diver do you want uncrowded,<br />

pristine dive sites?<br />

Sounds like liveaboard diving is the<br />

way to go for your next dive holiday.<br />

Liveaboard diving (where you live<br />

on the boat you dive from) offers the<br />

ultimate dive experience, with up to 5<br />

or 6 dives per day including night dives.<br />

In general the boats have a range of<br />

double or twin share accommodation,<br />

full dive facilities, nitrox and are the way<br />

forward for real dive enthusiasts!<br />

The best way to try liveaboard diving is<br />

to try a shorter trip somewhere like the<br />

Great Barrier reef in Australia. There<br />

are 4, 5 and 8 day itineraries on various<br />

boats from Cairns and Port Douglas.<br />

These trips explore dive sites further off<br />

the beaten track like The Cod Hole and<br />

the renowned Ribbon Reef and will give<br />

you a taste of what liveaboard diving is<br />

all about.<br />

Mantas Shrimp<br />

Sa Pa - Image by Aaron Joel Santos<br />

Once you have whetted your interest<br />

with one of these closer trips it may<br />

be time to explore further afield.<br />

Most liveaboards are between 7 – 10<br />

nights and there is a huge variety of<br />

destinations and boats!<br />

Where you choose to head all<br />

depends on what kind of diving you’re<br />

interested in, below is a summary of<br />

the best sites around the world:<br />

Wreck diving – Truk Lagoon, The<br />

Thorfinn is a legendary boat based<br />

in Truk lagoon. Truk is where a huge<br />

Japanese fleet was ambushed in<br />

WW2 and has an incredible range of<br />

wreck dives.<br />

The Solomon Islands has Bilikiki<br />

liveaboard and the Solomons Master,<br />

both of which are based out of<br />

Honiara. The diving is a mix of coral<br />

gardens, remote dive sites and WW2<br />

wrecks. Once again there is a vast<br />

range of wreck diving opportunities<br />

including Kennedy’s PT boat, aircraft<br />

wrecks and both shallow and deep<br />

shipwrecks.<br />

What better way to explore the ocean than on a<br />

liveaboard boat - Image by Marcelo Ogato<br />

Muck diving, small creatures, coral gardens<br />

–Micronesia which is close to the equator,<br />

doesn’t get the big storms like much of the<br />

South Pacific, so the dive sites are incredible.<br />

Indonesia offers Komodo, The Forgotten<br />

islands and Raja Ampat which all have remote<br />

dive sites with extraordinary nudibranch action,<br />

beautiful coral gardens and unique wildlife.<br />

Big Pelagic fish and open water diving – the<br />

legendary Galapagos has a mind blowing<br />

range of species to be seen on one dive<br />

trip. There are many boats operating out of<br />

Galapagos, so you just need to find one which<br />

will suit your budget and time frame. Palau is<br />

also well known for sharks, mantas, turtles and<br />

large fish.<br />

Remote dive sites – If you really want to<br />

get off the beaten path French Polynesia has<br />

some incredible experiences. Generally with<br />

smaller ships and sailing catamarans these<br />

expedition style craft offer itineraries from<br />

Tahiti to Rangiroa, the Tuamotos’s and the<br />

Society islands. There is also diving available<br />

in Antarctica for the really intrepid diver. The<br />

Hondius has itineraries which offer hiking,<br />

sea kayaking and diving on their Antarctic<br />

journeys.<br />

Papua New Guinea is another serious<br />

destination where I wouldn’t want to be living<br />

ashore, but a dive boat is perfect and Febrina<br />

and Oceania are two liveaboards which have<br />

almost cult status in the dive fraternity. These<br />

boats have a range of itineraries which make<br />

the most of the local weather conditions.<br />

So if you wish at add a little adventure to your<br />

diving, if the call of a more dive lifestyle holiday<br />

appeals to your sense of <strong>Adventure</strong>. The a live<br />

about could be right for you.<br />

If the idea of a before breakfast dive, or a late<br />

night after dinner dive appeals a liveaboard<br />

might be for you!<br />

bugdreamer.com | Marcelo Johan Ogata<br />

Experts at adventure travel since 2000<br />

Your dive travel specialists, with over 20 years<br />

experience ensures you have a fantastic<br />

trip, crafted by people who really care.<br />

New Zealand owned and operated<br />

"We live what we sell"<br />

0800 623 872<br />

info@madabouttravel.co.nz<br />

madabouttravel.co.nz<br />

70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


v i e t n a m<br />

VIETNAM:<br />

STHEAST ASIA<br />

9,158KMS<br />

Distance from New Zealand<br />

18HOURS<br />

By air from Auckland<br />

14.0583"N.<br />

108.2772"E.<br />

GPS Location<br />

96 MILLION<br />

Population<br />

Vietnam Fishing Boat<br />

Image by Aaron Joel Santos<br />

Kayaking Trang An Ninh Binh<br />

Image by Christian Berg<br />

Georgraphic Location:<br />

Socialist Republic of Vietnam is a<br />

country in Southeast Asia, at the<br />

eastern edge of mainland Southeast<br />

Asia, Vietnam borders China to the<br />

north, and Laos and Cambodia to the<br />

west. It shares maritime borders with<br />

Thailand through the Gulf of Thailand,<br />

and the Philippines, Indonesia, and<br />

Malaysia through the South China Sea.<br />

Climate:<br />

Vietnam’s location and topography<br />

create a tropical monsoon climate.<br />

The country’s climate is variable.<br />

The north has quite a severe winter,<br />

with a pleasant spring, and hot,<br />

rainy summers and autumns. In the<br />

highlands, the climate is extreme, with<br />

very hot summers and occasional<br />

snow in the winter. In central Vietnam,<br />

Rebecca Rusch & Huyen Nguyen on the Ho Chi Minh<br />

Trail - Image by Josh Letchworth/Red Bull Content Pool<br />

Sa Pa - Image by Aaron Joel Santos<br />

summers are typically hot and sunny.<br />

Lăng Cô in the north is hotter in<br />

summer and cooler in winter, while Da<br />

Nang and southern cities have milder<br />

conditions. The southern climate is<br />

hot and sunny, with frequent rains in<br />

June and July, and a cool, dry season<br />

from December to February.<br />

ADVENTURE ACTIVITIES<br />

• Cultural activities<br />

• Caving<br />

• Diving<br />

• Rock climbing<br />

• White water rafting<br />

• War tours (surprisingly<br />

active)<br />

• Boating<br />

• Biking<br />

• Hiking<br />

Best time of year to travel<br />

Vietnam is suitable for travel throughout the<br />

year, however the best time is during their<br />

winter (December to March). While in summer<br />

(June to September), which is the rainy<br />

season, there are often thunderstorms, but the<br />

price will be cheaper. So, the best time really<br />

depends on your needs.<br />

Accommodation:<br />

Accommodation is diverse, with a wide<br />

range of options - hotels, resorts, hostels,<br />

and homestays. There are luxury hotels and<br />

unique homestays specifically near key tourist<br />

attractions which are rally popular<br />

Locals tips:<br />

• There are a lot of scams in Vietnam<br />

so book any tours in advance or with a<br />

reputable supplier.<br />

• Although you won’t have to worry about<br />

malaria in the major tourist areas of<br />

Vietnam, Dengue fever and the Zika virus<br />

aren’t uncommon. Make sure to use good<br />

bug spray every day.<br />

• If purchasing be prepared to haggle its all<br />

part of the cultural process<br />

• Do not drink the tap water and keep your<br />

mouth shut in the shower and use bottled<br />

water when brushing your teeth.<br />

• You need to be aware, carrying large<br />

sums of money is not a good idea, be<br />

aware of scams, don’t put yourself at risk.<br />

• Similar to the other Southeast Asian<br />

countries, local merchants in Vietnam<br />

are more willing to accept cash, since<br />

credit cards are more likely to be stolen<br />

and swiped in this region. The USD is<br />

the most popular and the most readily<br />

convertible currency in Vietnam, and the<br />

exchange rate is one of the best.<br />

Home to a tiny island<br />

community of 212 people<br />

72//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong><br />

jurawhisky.com


v a n u a t u<br />

VANUATU:<br />

TAKE THE LEAP<br />

INTO PENTACOST<br />

2938KMS<br />

Distance from New Zealand<br />

3HOURS 15MIN<br />

By air from Auckland<br />

15.4493"S.<br />

167.5954"W.<br />

GPS Location<br />

319,000<br />

Population<br />

Pentecost Island in Vanuatu is<br />

known around the world for Naghol,<br />

a land-diving ritual conducted by<br />

the men of the island and open for<br />

visitors to see between April and<br />

June. There are three key sites<br />

where this takes place, and the tour<br />

you take will impact which site you<br />

visit (though similar rites, each site<br />

is slightly different in its setting). It’s<br />

what the popular activity of bungee<br />

jumping is based on, and brings<br />

people to witness it year after year.<br />

Beyond Naghol, Pentecost has<br />

much to offer year-round, from<br />

cascading waterfalls and rich<br />

cultural diversity. You’ll be exposed<br />

to the traditional way of life, from<br />

kava tastings to experiencing the<br />

warm hospitality of locals in village<br />

guesthouses that are scattered<br />

along the island’s coastline.<br />

How to experience Naghol<br />

Naghol, otherwise known as land<br />

diving, is a rite of passage for the<br />

men of Pentecost Island. It's the<br />

inspiration for modern-day bungee<br />

jumping and is what Pentecost<br />

is famous for. We’ve compiled a<br />

quick cheat sheet to help you with<br />

planning your trip, whether it be as a<br />

day trip or multi-day visit.<br />

Naghol, or land diving, Pentacost Island<br />

Vanuatu is a country in<br />

the southwestern Pacific<br />

Ocean, consisting of a<br />

chain of 13 principal and<br />

many smaller islands.<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> activities:<br />

• Cultural activities<br />

• Exploring<br />

• Diving<br />

• Fishing<br />

• Surfing<br />

• Sailing<br />

• All water-based sport<br />

• Biking<br />

• Hiking<br />

Best time to visit:<br />

Vanuatu weather is<br />

typically great all year<br />

round however conditions<br />

are generally at their best<br />

from April to October when<br />

the weather is fine and<br />

temperatures are warm<br />

yet comfortable, averaging<br />

between 18 degrees<br />

Celsius and 28 degrees<br />

Celsius.<br />

10.00am Pentecost Island<br />

What is Naghol, and when is it?<br />

Locals say that Naghol started from<br />

a time when a woman was running<br />

from her husband and was chased<br />

to the top of a coconut tree. She<br />

jumped off (with vines attached<br />

to her legs) and survived and he<br />

followed, yet did not survive. Naghol<br />

marks the start of the yam harvest<br />

season, with the better jumping<br />

resulting in better yams. It's not<br />

specifically a ceremony that occurs<br />

for tourists, though it draws visitors<br />

from around the world to witness the<br />

marvel that is Naghol.<br />

Tours to Pentecost Island to<br />

experience Naghol take place on<br />

Saturdays in the months of April<br />

to June. These day tours coincide<br />

with the rite of passage taking place<br />

(because the vines are strong for the<br />

ceremony to take place after the wet<br />

season).<br />

Why take a tour?<br />

A tour will make your Naghol<br />

experience far smoother. Tours will<br />

depart in the early morning from<br />

Port Vila (some also depart from<br />

Luganville) to fly you to Pentecost,<br />

where you'll then be driven to one<br />

of the sites for the land diving.<br />

Many tours will also include lunch.<br />

The tours will also ensure that<br />

appropriate fees are paid by a 'fixer'<br />

from your tour company to the<br />

traditional land owners where you<br />

are observing Naghol.<br />

Check out Vanuatu Eco Tours who operate a fantastic 3 day/2 night tour to the Naghol:<br />

www.vanuatuecotours.com/tours/pentecost-vanuatu-land-diving/<br />

Day Trips are operated by: www.airtaxivanuatu.com and www.unity-airlines.com<br />

For further information please visit: www.vanuatu.travel<br />

Enjoy the warm hospitality of<br />

the locals<br />

Hiking Diving Culture<br />

Volcanos<br />

Go explore at vanuatu.travel<br />

74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


s a m o a<br />

SAMOA:<br />

BUILDING AN<br />

ADVENTURE CAREER<br />

ebikes at Falealupo<br />

Don't spend your health on<br />

your career," we were advised<br />

at a lecture on health for<br />

CEOs. The final challenge<br />

was: “You can all write<br />

business plans. This time write<br />

a life plan."<br />

My response was my 50/50<br />

plan: spend 50% of my time<br />

running adventure tours<br />

around the world, 50% as a<br />

business and IT consultant<br />

with some additional time<br />

studying risk management.<br />

And to achieve this by the time<br />

Kayaking in Antarctica. amongst<br />

the brash ice.<br />

I was 50. I was then 49 and<br />

had became bored with the<br />

repeating cycle of challenges<br />

in winning and delivering<br />

complex IT projects.<br />

Our holidays had always<br />

involved cycling, tramping<br />

and rafting adventures. Now<br />

that the kids had left home, I<br />

had been forced to look wider<br />

for willing participants, and<br />

the trips had become more<br />

extreme. I enticed my running<br />

club mates into a month-long<br />

adventure in South America,<br />

By Ross Bidmead<br />

where we ran the Inca Trail,<br />

cycled into the Amazon and<br />

swam with the pink dolphins.<br />

The trip was extreme in<br />

terms of physical and mental<br />

effort, but also rewarding<br />

watching the group extended<br />

themselves and grow.<br />

Frances, my wife, was<br />

comfortable with the reduced<br />

income and pleased with the<br />

thought of a less stressed<br />

husband. However, she<br />

pointed out that this was 150%<br />

of my time commitment.<br />

2,887KMS<br />

Distance from New Zealand<br />

4HOURS 4OMIN<br />

By air from Auckland<br />

13° 45' 29.92"S.<br />

172° 06' 17.16"W.<br />

GPS Location<br />

192,001<br />

Population<br />

Our first commercial trip,<br />

chartering a yacht and sailing<br />

to Antarctica to explore with<br />

the kayak, was an exuberant<br />

introduction to the new<br />

lifestyle. The trip began with<br />

an extreme stress test. Our<br />

yacht, Spirit of Sydney, was<br />

knocked down by a wave on<br />

the preceding voyage. The<br />

damage, including a bent mast<br />

and destroyed electronics<br />

and heating systems, had<br />

necessitated a stay in the<br />

Falklands for repairs. Our<br />

group arrived in Ushuaia,<br />

Building our house and workshop<br />

was all hands on deck. Ross in<br />

yellow shirt.<br />

Argentina, to find the yacht was still<br />

a day away from limping into port.<br />

Decidedly concerned about the large<br />

amounts I had been paid by each trip<br />

member and what I would do if we<br />

couldn't sail, we improvised exploring<br />

the nearby National Park.<br />

Once Spirit arrived, the crew worked<br />

magic, provisioning the yacht, and<br />

replacing much of the electronics in two<br />

days. A stormy crossing of the Drake<br />

Passage bonded our group, and as the<br />

seas calmed, a cooking competition<br />

developed as we sought to bake the<br />

best bread and cook the best meals<br />

when our watches corresponded with<br />

galley duties. The Antarctic peninsula<br />

exceeded our expectations as we<br />

kayaked amongst whales and leopard<br />

seals, spent a day in a remote penguin<br />

colony and camped out on a glacier.<br />

The Antarctic trip occurred before I had<br />

found a CEO to replace me, but in 2008<br />

I handed over the reins. To celebrate,<br />

Frances and I chose a warmer<br />

destination and cycled independently<br />

around Savai'i, Samoa, on a journey<br />

of surprising discovery. My images of<br />

the Pacific Islands mainly had been<br />

formed by reading "Pacific <strong>Adventure</strong>"<br />

by Willard Price, and I imagined and<br />

hoped for pristine white sand beaches<br />

beside crystal clear lagoons fringed<br />

with palms and occasional simple<br />

native huts.<br />

Our trip to Samoa was the least planned<br />

and researched adventure we ever did,<br />

and initially, we paid the price. The plane<br />

landed at midnight at Faleolo Airport,<br />

an hour from Apia. My quick glance at<br />

a map before we left showed an airport<br />

in Apia, but Fagalii Airport in Apia was<br />

tiny, and all jets landed at Faleolo.<br />

Eventually, we found a bus that would<br />

take our bike boxes, and we made it to<br />

our backpacker’s hotel by 2 am.<br />

In the morning, we assembled our<br />

bikes and started cycling towards what<br />

we thought was the ferry terminal.<br />

But the road ran out at the end of the<br />

peninsula, and we sheepishly returned<br />

to town to hunt down a better map.<br />

Finally, on our way around noon, we<br />

cycled in the midday heat back out<br />

past the airport on the busiest road in<br />

Kayaking through the mangroves out to the<br />

turtle lagoon.<br />

Samoa to the ferry terminal. There<br />

were no beaches along the way and<br />

continuous villages on both sides. We<br />

were tired and sweaty and beginning<br />

to wonder if this was one of our better<br />

ideas.<br />

Eventually, after a short ferry<br />

crossing of the Apolima Strait, we<br />

arrived at a small resort in Salelologa<br />

on Savaii, just a kilometre from the<br />

ferry terminal. The bar was humming,<br />

serving unbelievably cheap drinks<br />

to a mostly younger and lightly clad<br />

clientele. After a long refreshing<br />

swim, we relaxed on the covered jetty<br />

as the sun set. It seemed perfect, but<br />

the best was still to come.<br />

Cycling out of Salelologa the next<br />

morning was completely different<br />

from the first day. There was very<br />

little traffic on the well-sealed road.<br />

We rode slowly in the morning<br />

cool, admiring the numerous family<br />

meeting fales [far-lays] set back<br />

from the road behind immaculately<br />

maintained gardens bursting with<br />

colour. The road soon joined the<br />

coast, and we cycled beside a<br />

sparkling lagoon.<br />

Descending Lemaire Island in<br />

Antarctica.<br />

The Beach Fales at Lano had a slightly<br />

abandoned look, with the dining fale<br />

undermined by a recent flood. As we<br />

wondered what to do, the proprietor<br />

appeared and welcomed us. We quickly<br />

unpacked and jumped into the warm<br />

sea, getting out only to grab our masks<br />

and snorkels to explore the numerous<br />

coral outcrops teeming with fish. It was the<br />

perfect place to gain confidence<br />

in snorkelling, and we swam for an hour and<br />

were lucky enough to spot a turtle.<br />

Beach Fales are Samoa’s equivalent of<br />

campgrounds. Located on village land and<br />

usually run by a family, the fales have a<br />

wooden sleeping platform, thatched or steel<br />

roof and matting sides. The sea breeze<br />

provides air conditioning and is far more<br />

comfortable than tents. They cost less than<br />

a basic campground cabin in New Zealand,<br />

but the rental includes dinner and breakfast.<br />

That night we were treated to a fiafia<br />

(traditional show). The traditional dances<br />

had similarities to kapa haka but somehow<br />

felt more personal, and we felt privileged<br />

to be allowed to participate. The fiafia<br />

culminated with a siva afi or fireknife dance<br />

where a traditional fighting axe with blazing<br />

petrol-soaked rags tied to the handle and<br />

blade was twirled at high speed. Drums<br />

beat out a fierce tattoo at an ever-increasing<br />

tempo, and the siva complexity grew with<br />

the dancers spinning a knife in each hand. It<br />

looked dangerous, and all the dancers had<br />

new knicks and burns.<br />

The rest of our cycle around Savaii<br />

continued in the same way, with each night<br />

at a stunning beach. We would cycle in<br />

the mornings and swim and snorkel every<br />

afternoon. The bikes also introduced us to<br />

the locals who were always interested in the<br />

bikes and where we were going.<br />

The mountain bike track we are building from our base<br />

76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//77


Captivated by Samoa, we<br />

immediately began offering guided<br />

cycle trips there. At first, these<br />

involved everyone bringing their<br />

bikes, but I got tired of packing<br />

them up at the end of each trip, and<br />

we bought a small fleet of rental<br />

bikes that we kept at a local motel.<br />

It became known that we had<br />

bikes, and requests for freedom<br />

rentals increased without any real<br />

intention or marketing. Before<br />

long, we found we had 35 bikes in<br />

Samoa and needed a better plan<br />

and maintenance system.<br />

Initially, we rented a motel unit for<br />

three months, planning to only stay<br />

for the peak season. But being<br />

based in Samoa meant more time<br />

to explore, and it wasn't long before<br />

I had convinced Frances that we<br />

should buy the local kayak tour<br />

business.<br />

The kayaks provided an opportunity<br />

to explore the coast better. We<br />

had some challenging adventures<br />

with friends and clients as we<br />

discovered turtle breeding grounds,<br />

offshore islands teaming with<br />

seabirds, uninhabited islands with<br />

palm-fringed lagoons and remnants<br />

of an old leper colony. We even had<br />

close encounters with whales.<br />

With the kayaks, we needed<br />

more storage space, so gradually<br />

expanded over the next few years.<br />

By 2019 we had 100 bikes, 25<br />

kayaks, and permanent residency<br />

in Samoa. Our part-time hobby<br />

business had become a full-time<br />

job for both of us.<br />

Our focus had gradually changed<br />

from running large, challenging<br />

guided trips in the Himalayas and<br />

South America to almost solely<br />

Samoa tours.<br />

Looking back over the last 16<br />

years, it has been a continuous<br />

adventure. Not just an adventure in<br />

the outdoors but in understanding<br />

a different culture and running a<br />

business in a developing country.<br />

Some events have been highly<br />

demanding at the time but more<br />

enjoyable on reflection. Building our<br />

house involved navigating a different<br />

building consent process, dealing<br />

with an often minimal and constantly<br />

changing range of building materials<br />

and learning to work alongside local<br />

builders. Desperately attempting to<br />

float off the concrete floor before it set<br />

under a baking sun on a 34-degree<br />

day was as tough as a typical<br />

adventure race day.<br />

The rewards have included listening<br />

to clients when they return from their<br />

trips, often lots of little things went<br />

wrong, as is inevitable in a developing<br />

nation, but so often we would be told:<br />

"it's the best holiday we have had".<br />

I still love watching people as they<br />

spot dozens of turtles or seeing them<br />

step out of their comfort zones and<br />

conquer their fears. Teaching one<br />

of our young guests to snorkel and<br />

watching her worry turn to amazement<br />

as we floated over coral gardens<br />

remains a cherished moment.<br />

Sunset at Falealupo Beach<br />

It has been satisfying to see our staff develop<br />

new skills as guides and bike mechanics<br />

while learning new ways to build, repair<br />

and cook with different and often limited<br />

resources. Although I still can't cook an umu<br />

or efficiently husk a coconut.<br />

The 50:50 Plan remains a goal. We expect a<br />

hectic year with the country fully open after<br />

Covid. Making time for new adventures will<br />

require some discipline, but there are many<br />

opportunities for new activities in Samoa and<br />

many places to explore in New Zealand.<br />

A perfect lunch swim spot<br />

"Looking back<br />

over the last<br />

16 years<br />

it's been a<br />

continuous<br />

adventure."<br />

Siva afi with two flaming knives while<br />

the support band beat out an ever<br />

increasing tempo.<br />

Beautiful Samoa awaits you, and we are welcoming our international aiga<br />

with open arms! Experience Samoa’s untouched beauty, unique cultural<br />

experiences and rich heritage. Self drive, bike or stroll through the wonders<br />

that make this island life one to cherish just like the locals do.<br />

Contact Ross and Frances at: office@outdoor.co.nz to organise a custom tour or to join a group.www.outdoorsamoa.com<br />

78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


n e w c a l e d o n i a<br />

c a l e d o n i a<br />

NEW CALEDONIA:<br />

ADRENALINE KICKS<br />

New Calendonia is a water lovers paradise<br />

For a destination offering a<br />

range of activities to kick your<br />

adrenaline into overdrive,<br />

look no further than the<br />

heart of the South Pacific,<br />

New Caledonia. As an active<br />

traveller in New Cal, you’ll<br />

have access to a range of<br />

activities, such as skydiving<br />

over the stunning lagoon,<br />

taking part in a series of water<br />

activities, or testing your limits<br />

on a strenuous hike, there is<br />

a hot pick for every type of<br />

adrenaline junkie.<br />

Exploring New Cal on foot<br />

New Caledonia is New<br />

Zealand’s closest neighbour<br />

and is accessible with a short<br />

3-hour flight from Auckland,<br />

making it the perfect<br />

destination for a short active<br />

holiday.<br />

Explore on foot<br />

While hiking may not be the<br />

first thing that comes to mind<br />

for some when considering<br />

New Cal for a holiday, the<br />

range of walking trails from<br />

beginner to expert will be<br />

sure to convince you. Take<br />

on the Mont-Dore trail that<br />

will have your heart racing as<br />

you traverse through a range<br />

of terrains and finish off with<br />

some of the best views of<br />

Noumea. If you want more<br />

of a challenge, tackle the 96<br />

km long GR® NC1 hiking trail<br />

that cuts across the southern<br />

tip of the Grand Terre.<br />

Divided into seven main<br />

stages is estimated to take<br />

a total of 6 days, and you’ll<br />

enjoy the beautiful nature<br />

2,388KMS<br />

Distance from New Zealand<br />

3HOURS<br />

By air from Auckland<br />

22°16'32.8836''S.<br />

166°27'28.7748''E.<br />

GPS Location<br />

285,000<br />

Population<br />

while you hike through the<br />

red landscapes of the Great<br />

South to the lush Dumbéa<br />

rainforest.<br />

Other hot trails include the<br />

mountain that overlooks<br />

Noumea, Pic Malaoui (or<br />

policeman’s hat) or if you’re<br />

looking for a more peaceful<br />

experience the Source trail in<br />

Yaté is another great pick for<br />

a shorter hike.<br />

New Cal surf<br />

Image by Oneye Production<br />

Across the dirt on two wheels<br />

The elevations across the main island<br />

mean that New Caledonia is becoming<br />

a top destination for biking enthusiasts.<br />

Your pulse will be rising as you jump on<br />

a mountain bike to take on the rough<br />

trails of the mainland, known as the<br />

Grand Terre. There are countless tracks<br />

to discover on the west coast, from<br />

Deva in Bourail to the paths traced in<br />

the land of Koné, such as the Grande<br />

Boucle of the Tango plateau.<br />

As with hiking, the Great South is an<br />

ideal spot for biking where there are<br />

7 different bike trails laid out, ranging<br />

from green pats under 5km to daunting<br />

red and black trails extending from 10<br />

to 33km.<br />

Touch the sky<br />

Not just your ordinary flight, the ultralight<br />

aeroplane (ULM) flight is perfect<br />

for those who want to taste the thrill and<br />

enjoy the scenery all wrapped up in one<br />

experience. Float above the heights of<br />

the mountain chains and ranges where<br />

you may even spot a bale of sea turtles<br />

or the jump of a dolphin. Our pick is to<br />

fly above the literal heart of the South<br />

Pacific, the famous naturally formed<br />

Heart of Voh on the North-West side<br />

as you are wowed by the beauty of the<br />

mangroves and the lagoon.<br />

Kayaking at Plage Ouvea<br />

Image by Escape Your Life<br />

Horseriding is a great way to<br />

explore the regions top attractions<br />

Image by JC Robert<br />

New Caledonia is a top location for biking<br />

enthusiasts<br />

A WATER LOVER’S PARADISE<br />

If extreme adrenaline is not<br />

quite your thing, then choose<br />

from the endless selection of<br />

water activities that are set<br />

to provide the rush you are<br />

longing for. New Caledonia<br />

boasts stunning scenery, great<br />

conditions, and an abundance<br />

of spots for water activities to<br />

take place. For beginners try out<br />

kayaking, not only will it get your<br />

heart rate pumping, but you will<br />

find yourself amongst the wild<br />

nature of the lagoons. If you<br />

want to kick things up a notch,<br />

then kitesurfing might be the<br />

activity to participate in. Not only<br />

are the waters ideal for wave<br />

riding but the opportunity to spot<br />

fish, dugongs and other marine<br />

species in the world’s largest<br />

lagoon cannot be missed.<br />

See New Cal on horseback<br />

For an adrenaline rush that isn’t quite the norm,<br />

partake in horseback riding. Horse riding in New<br />

Cal is a great way to explore the region’s top<br />

attractions that are more difficult to get to by car<br />

or foot. Choose from a range of tours to suit the<br />

adventure you would like to enjoy, whether it is<br />

to stride past the wide-open plains where you<br />

might also witness wild horses, gallop along<br />

the water's edge, or indulge in some good oldfashioned<br />

cowboy culture.<br />

Glide above the forest<br />

A top activity that is sure to raise the hairs on<br />

your skin is zipping through the tree line of New<br />

Cal, via a tree climb or zip line – the perfect<br />

opportunity to see the land from a different<br />

angle. Strap yourself in as you are catapulted<br />

through the air with only a harness to support<br />

you, the sense of freedom will be thrilling<br />

enough! Don’t forget to look out for the wildlife<br />

that can be spotted around you and in the lush<br />

greenery you are travelling through.<br />

Dive into your wild side<br />

Those who want to dive deeper and explore<br />

the depths of the lagoon will have an incredible<br />

opportunity in New Caledonia. With abundant<br />

wildlife on the reefs and a steady water<br />

temperature all year round, it is an experience<br />

like no other. A popular activity is free diving,<br />

with many local courses available in the safe<br />

and controlled environment of the Caledonian<br />

lagoon. If diving is a little beyond your limits,<br />

there’s an abundant number of locations that<br />

are ideal for snorkelling. Follow the underwater<br />

path at Ile aux Canards (Duck Island) or take a<br />

dip with the fishes in the natural pool in Oro Bay<br />

on the Ilse of Pines.<br />

Plongee sous-marine - Image by Alize Diving Satosha Masuda<br />

For more experiences to raise the pulse in New Caledonia visit: https://pulse.newcaledonia.travel/nz/top-experiences/<br />

80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//81


n i u e<br />

NIUE:<br />

THE ROCK<br />

2,828.6KMS<br />

Distance from New Zealand<br />

3.5HOURS<br />

By air from Auckland<br />

19°03'15.37"S.<br />

169°51'43.51"W.<br />

GPS Location<br />

1,620<br />

Population<br />

Georgraphic Location:<br />

Niue is an island country in the South<br />

Pacific Ocean, 2,400 kilometres<br />

(1,500 mi) northeast of New Zealand.<br />

Niue is located in a triangle between<br />

Tonga, Samoa, and the Cook<br />

Islands. It is 604 kilometres northeast<br />

of Tonga .<br />

Formed by volcanic upheavals,<br />

the island sits atop 100-foot cliffs<br />

rising straight out of deep ocean.<br />

All fourteen villages are situated<br />

on a narrow terrace that encircles<br />

the island. The interior consists of<br />

a central saucer-shaped plateau,<br />

-five meters higher than the terrace,<br />

covered in ferns, scrub, and secondgrowth<br />

trees.<br />

There is no surface water except in a<br />

few caves with small, brackish pools.<br />

There are no surrounding protective<br />

reefs or sheltered lagoons. Niue is<br />

very exposed!<br />

Scenic Matavai Resort Niue<br />

The fishing is first-class<br />

Climate:<br />

The climate of Niue is tropical, with<br />

a hot, muggy and rainy period from<br />

December to April and a cooler and<br />

drier period from June to October,<br />

during which the south-east trade<br />

winds prevail.<br />

ADVENTURE ACTIVITIES<br />

• Diving<br />

• Whale watching<br />

• Fishing<br />

• Biking<br />

• Hiking<br />

Niue's unique landscape creates some impressive<br />

swimming and diving holes<br />

Best time of year to travel<br />

The most popular time of the year to visit Niue<br />

is July to October, when the humpback whales<br />

are visiting. April, May and June are also a good<br />

pick, because temperatures are comfortable<br />

(average temperature 24°C).<br />

Accommodation:<br />

There is one main resort, The Scenic Matavia,<br />

and a few motels. guest houses and private villas<br />

– be prepared to book as there are not a huge<br />

number of rooms available.<br />

Locals tips:<br />

• This is an island of 1600 people everyone<br />

knows everyone, so it is relaxed, friendly<br />

and quiet.<br />

• The fishing in Niue is off the scale good<br />

and a half day charter is the best fishing<br />

experience you will ever get on the big blue<br />

wobbly stuff.<br />

• The water in Niue, because there is<br />

no runoff, is crystal clear and although<br />

there are very limited beaches there<br />

are some amazing swimming holes and<br />

chasms. The chasms are very tidal but<br />

there is a brochure you can get in your<br />

accommodation that tells you the best time<br />

to go and where, they are all different.<br />

• Because the water is very deep close to<br />

the island and no rain runoff diving in Niue<br />

is some of the best in the world.<br />

• You will not have access to roaming in<br />

Niue. We suggest booking into some<br />

accommodation with free Wi-Fi. If you will<br />

need a lot of data, it’s worth purchasing a<br />

data plan with Telecom Niue, Niue’s only<br />

phone network and fixed internet operator,<br />

some cafes and bars offer Wi-Fi as well.<br />

There is a free Wi-Fi hotspot in Alofi only<br />

allows you access to certain websites (so<br />

don’t get too excited).<br />

THE SCENIC MATAVAI RESORT<br />

Imagine sitting back and watching the<br />

incredible warming colours of a Pacific<br />

sun set, cocktail in hand, as you tell<br />

stories with friends about the day’s<br />

adventures of swimming crystal clear<br />

waters and exploring hidden caves<br />

and chasms… In the South Pacific<br />

hidden gem that is Niue, this dream<br />

soon becomes the daily routine.<br />

As the island’s only full service resort,<br />

the Scenic Matavai Resort offers<br />

the perfect place to unwind, with<br />

the stunning clifftop location offers<br />

uninterrupted views of a spectacular<br />

ocean scape and stunning sunsets.<br />

The Scenic Matavai Resort offers the<br />

perfect place to unwind<br />

Boasting a swim up pool bar, alfresco<br />

dining and a range of evening<br />

entertainment options, the resort is a<br />

popular place for hotel guests, other<br />

visitors and locals alike.<br />

The resort is perfectly positioned to be<br />

able to take in the myriad of activities<br />

on island, and is right next door to<br />

Niue Blue, one of the island’s premier<br />

diving operations. Various tours leave<br />

right from the resort door, and it is only<br />

a few minutes drive from the township<br />

and some of Niue’s most popular<br />

walks and swimming spots like the<br />

Limu Pools and Avatele Beach.<br />

Within the resort, guests can enjoy a<br />

range of settings from tropical gardens to<br />

poolside to the privacy of their own balcony<br />

with a view. Rooms are spacious, cool and<br />

well equipped to ensure that whether the<br />

day has been packed with adventure, or<br />

chilled by the pool, there is a comfortable<br />

place to rest your head and be ready for<br />

the next day in paradise.<br />

All of this relaxation is just a click away<br />

with Scenic Matavai Resort. It is quick and<br />

simple to book online… plus you receive<br />

an additional discount for booking direct<br />

and the opportunity to see exclusive offers,<br />

deals and the added reassurance for any<br />

changes or cancellations you may need to<br />

make should anything arise.<br />

If you are looking for the ultimate getaway<br />

to recharge mind, body and soul then look<br />

no further than to the tropical and tranquil<br />

surrounds of the island of Niue. Just over<br />

3 hours from Auckland and a world away<br />

from the hustle and bustle of city life.<br />

J U S T A C L I C K A W A Y<br />

scenicmatavairesort.com<br />

A room with a view<br />

82//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong>


a r o t o n g a<br />

t o n g a<br />

RAROTONGA:<br />

BIKING THE ISLAND<br />

Biking allows you to explore the many secluded beaches the island has to offer.<br />

It’s hot, it’s sticky, it’s sunny, did I say it’s<br />

hot.<br />

“Let’s ride around the island” she said.<br />

She could see by the look on my face that<br />

all the planets were not aligned for a 35km<br />

bike ride.<br />

Trying to up its appeal, she added “we’ll get<br />

E-bikes”<br />

An hour later we are standing outside<br />

Ride Raro. Sandy, not the beach but the<br />

delightful in-store person, ran us through<br />

the ‘how too’. We have E-bikes and pretty<br />

much understand how they work but we<br />

listened intently to the briefing. Seats and<br />

helmet adjusted we peddled away not<br />

really knowing what to expect.<br />

As with most travel the closer you can get<br />

to the local community the more enriching<br />

it is.<br />

Did I say it was hot?<br />

It was hot, as the sun beat down, we<br />

started our trip to circumnavigate the island<br />

of Rarotonga.<br />

We started off at Ride Raro base just near<br />

the city market, the word CITY conjures<br />

up a range of metropolis images, but think<br />

in terms of a few cars, a few stressed<br />

chickens and a man with an arm full of<br />

coconuts biking up the middle of the road.<br />

I would not normally suggest anyone ride on<br />

the road, but in Rarotonga it’s like riding on<br />

the footpath, possibly a little bumpier in parts.<br />

The first thing that strikes you on a bike<br />

as opposed to car, a taxi, or a bus, is the<br />

smell, every second tree is a frangipani,<br />

there are pungent tropical scents from<br />

flowers to ripe mangos, lunches being<br />

cooked over BBQ’s and smoke for a<br />

hundred fires.<br />

DID I say it was Hot!<br />

Within half an hour we came to a public<br />

white sand beach. Across the road was<br />

a store selling beer, the sun beat down,<br />

the water called to us, and the beer tasted<br />

amazing. We rested the bikes against a<br />

banyan tree, laid on the white sand beach,<br />

swam in the sea and never saw another<br />

living soul.<br />

3,400KMS<br />

Distance from New Zealand<br />

4HOURS<br />

By air from Auckland<br />

21.2292°S.<br />

159.7763°W.<br />

GPS Location<br />

17,500<br />

Population<br />

Stopping at Club Raro on our way round<br />

the island for a wee cocktail!<br />

A bike gives you a degree of<br />

independence, and an E-bike makes<br />

it easy, it’s like a vesper with big<br />

wheels, you can go anywhere you<br />

want, and we did. We swam, laid in<br />

the sun then dried off and headed<br />

inland.<br />

There is a main road that runs<br />

around the island, but there is a<br />

secondary road behind it. It’s a<br />

little rough, but you get an insight<br />

into island life; people wave, dogs<br />

look – no one barks, chickens are<br />

everywhere, its lush and green and<br />

the air is thick, there is little breeze<br />

yet it’s still comfortable. Nothing<br />

is flash, some of the houses are<br />

ramshackle, but there is washing<br />

everywhere, and the garden and<br />

lawns are perfect.<br />

Every other house has its own<br />

cemetery, their own memorial, many<br />

are nicer than the homes, most are<br />

beautifully kept, whitewashed with<br />

beautiful gardens and fresh cut<br />

flower in vases.<br />

I think that self-biking is the best way<br />

to see Rarotonga, its flat, it safe,<br />

there are beaches, and markets and<br />

stores and restaurants and bars.<br />

As with all roads you need to be a<br />

little careful but the local are used to<br />

seeing tourists.<br />

We had only hired the bike for<br />

the day but we could have kept it<br />

overnight if needed. However, biking<br />

at night in Rarotonga is not highly<br />

recommended due to the lack of<br />

lights and footpaths.<br />

Exploring the inland trails<br />

Memorials to lost<br />

loveones graces many<br />

home<br />

Club Raro on the north-eastern<br />

shores of Rarotonga<br />

Paradise<br />

"“Kia Orana” is<br />

the greeting used<br />

to say “hello”.The<br />

literal translation<br />

is actually “May<br />

you live a long and<br />

fulfilling life.”<br />

COOK ISLANDS<br />

Rarotonga, is the largest island in the<br />

southern group of the Cook Islands.<br />

The island is volcanic in origin and<br />

has a rugged interior rising to 652<br />

metres at Te Manga (which you can<br />

walk up). Surrounding its mountainous<br />

core is a plain, a raised fringing coral<br />

reef covered with sediment. The<br />

island itself is fringed by a protective<br />

coral reef.<br />

Best time of year / seasons:<br />

Overall, the shoulder months of April, May,<br />

September, and October are a great time<br />

to visit as the weather in these months<br />

is usually the perfect balance of warm<br />

temperatures and dry skies. During July to<br />

October bring the humpback whales.<br />

Accommodation:<br />

Accommodation varies from 5 star hotels, to<br />

back-packers, homestays and everything in<br />

between. We based ourselves at Club Raro;<br />

with comfortable rooms, an amazing<br />

reef side setting, great service, an awesome<br />

restaurant and bar, close to everything and<br />

priced not to break your bank balance.<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> activities:<br />

• Diving<br />

• Fishing<br />

• Surfing<br />

• Any water-based sport<br />

• Boating<br />

• Biking<br />

• Hiking<br />

Locals Tip:<br />

• Eat and go shopping at Punanga Nui<br />

Market & Muri Night Markets<br />

• If you want to rent a car or a scooter you<br />

will have to purchase a local licence, but<br />

the local bus service is good.<br />

• Always eat the fresh fish.<br />

• Climb Te Rua Manga (The Needle)<br />

Biking the island allows you to find your own piece of paradise<br />

84//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//85


Ocean Front Villas open out onto a<br />

private deck, white sandy beach and<br />

uninterrupted views to the horizon<br />

Ocean View, two-story Villas are spacious and<br />

beautifully decorated, incorporating modern<br />

living and keeping he fresh ocean feel alive.<br />

While biking round the island we<br />

discovered Ocean Escape Resort & Spa,<br />

so we popped in and booked an afternoon<br />

massage for the following day.<br />

The new Eco-resort had come highly<br />

recommended from some locals, so<br />

we booked in for their 75-minute pure<br />

indulgence massage. One of the things<br />

that contributes to their unique massage<br />

experience is the use of bespoke100%<br />

Organic Essential Oils menu, the expertise<br />

of the therapists, but, also the environment,<br />

and Ocean Escape Resort & Spa scored<br />

highly on all fronts.<br />

As one of Rarotonga’s top spas, they<br />

offer a full range of pampering packages,<br />

which is outlined on their website,<br />

includes massages, facials, pedicure, and<br />

manicures.<br />

Ocean Escape Resort boasts a unique<br />

Ocean water swimming pool, with a<br />

coral reef (the only one of its kind on<br />

Rarotonga) This pool is replenished daily<br />

from the ocean tides, and it is chlorine and<br />

chemical-free, just like the ocean.<br />

The eco-friendly experience is at the core<br />

of the resort, from the sanitation and solar<br />

power to grey water keeping the gardens<br />

green. Even the drinking rainwater is safe<br />

and beautiful to drink, unlike much of<br />

Rarotonga.<br />

A phrase you will often hear linked to the<br />

resort is ‘sustainability and luxury all rolled<br />

into one.’ As the name suggests, Ocean<br />

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and everything about the resort reflects<br />

that, from the colours, the 12 villas and<br />

resort stylish layout.<br />

Each Villa has its own private balcony with<br />

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saltwater pool or the coastal beach.<br />

You can sleep to the sound of breaking<br />

waves and in season you can closely<br />

watch humpback whales migrating just<br />

a short distance from the sandy casual<br />

beach lounge area.<br />

Not far away is the renowned Muri Beach,<br />

where you can snorkel over the pristine<br />

coral reefs and interact with the marine life.<br />

Or you can explore the densely forested<br />

landscapes dotted with volcanic peaks.<br />

This eco-friendly, adults-only oasis (16+)<br />

is a haven for sun-soaked days, serenity,<br />

and is perfect for couples seeking a<br />

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BJ’s Tapas Bar will be opening soon,<br />

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frenchpolynesia<br />

polynesia<br />

TAHITI:<br />

AND HER ISLANDS<br />

4,095KMS<br />

Distance from New Zealand<br />

4.5HOURS<br />

By air from Auckland<br />

17.6509°S.<br />

149.4260°W.<br />

GPS Location<br />

282,534<br />

Population<br />

Georgraphic Location:<br />

Tahiti and The Islands of Tahiti, also<br />

known as the Society islands (of which<br />

there are 14 main islands) are in the<br />

southern part of the Pacific Ocean.<br />

Commonly referred to as The Islands of<br />

Tahiti, French Polynesia is a collection<br />

of 118 islands and atolls scattered<br />

across an impressive nautical surface<br />

area the size of Western Europe. Still,<br />

these tiny islands—many of which<br />

remain uninhabited—make up a total<br />

landmass of only 4,100 sq. km<br />

They are roughly the same distance<br />

from California as they are from<br />

Australia. Tahiti itself is the largest of<br />

the Society Islands of French Polynesia<br />

which has a population of 275,918<br />

inhabitants.<br />

The population of the islands is<br />

concentrated in the coastal regions and<br />

becomes increasingly sparse towards<br />

the mountainous centre of the islands.<br />

The main island of Tahiti (Iles du Vent),<br />

where 50% of the inhabitants live, is<br />

also home to the capital of French<br />

Polynesia, the city of Papeete.<br />

The Matavai Hotel, Niue<br />

The fishing is first-class<br />

Description:<br />

Tahiti, the main islands is often referred<br />

to as the Queen of the Pacific. A circle<br />

of majestic peaks crowns the island<br />

of Tahiti, towering over the ocean.<br />

The mountainous interior shelters<br />

deep valleys, clear streams, and high<br />

waterfalls. The flat coastal lands,<br />

edged with a rugged coastline, is<br />

home most of the island's population.<br />

Papeete, the capital city, and gateway<br />

to the region, boasts world-class<br />

resorts, spas, fine restaurants, and<br />

endless shopping at the markets,<br />

pearl shops, and boutiques. Each of<br />

the other outer islands has something<br />

unique to offer, Bora Bora with is<br />

stunning lagoon, Raetia, the birthplace<br />

of Polynesia has a rich culture, each<br />

island has something special, too long<br />

to list here.<br />

Best time of year to travel<br />

The best time to visit Tahiti is between May<br />

and October. Although the temperatures are<br />

pleasant year-round, Tahiti's winter season<br />

has less humidity. Tahiti only experiences<br />

two distinct seasons: Winter which brings<br />

less rain and pleasant temperatures while<br />

the summertime – November through April<br />

– can be quite hot and humid (especially<br />

December), and often rain.<br />

ADVENTURE ACTIVITIES<br />

• Cultural activities<br />

• Diving<br />

• Fishing<br />

• Surfing<br />

• Any sort of water activity<br />

• Boating<br />

• Biking<br />

• Hiking<br />

Accommodation:<br />

Accommodation in Tahiti is varied from some<br />

of the most amazing resorts and hotels in the<br />

world to pensions(homestays). Pensions are<br />

very family focused and you can be housed<br />

and fed and escorted or just left on your own.<br />

There are also air BnB type options and a<br />

variety of hotels and motels to fit every budget.<br />

Locals tips:<br />

• The best way to eat in Tahiti is not in your hotel but at<br />

the local Roulette, these are basically food carts that<br />

pop up at night at local carparks, shopping areas etc –<br />

just look around at night and you will find them or ask<br />

locals. They are inexpensive and the food is great, the<br />

way to pick the best one is to choose where the most<br />

locals are eating.<br />

• The local raw fish is always specular – try the local dish,<br />

poison cru (raw fish and coconut).<br />

• If you are lucky (or maybe not) try the fafaru – you<br />

can’t really buy it, but locals might share it with you.<br />

It is basically fresh fish served in a fermented sauce<br />

(fermented is a nice word for rotten) taste a lot better<br />

than it smells. You will get major kudos for eating it.<br />

• Bread (which is amazing) cheese, wine, beer is all<br />

inexpensive, buying readymade baguettes at the local<br />

store (they are everywhere) is a great inexpensive lunch<br />

option.<br />

• Don’t surf in Tahiti on the reef breaks unless you know<br />

what you are doing. There are a few beach breaks that<br />

are safe for everyone. If surfing for the first time in Tahiti<br />

it would pay to get a guide – with a boat.<br />

• There are a lot of tourist options in Tahiti, but anything to<br />

do with water is worth the experience. The diving is off<br />

the scale in terms of big fish, sharks, barracuda, manta<br />

rays etc. Even the snorkelling can be amazing.<br />

• Fishing is great close to the main city, on the island<br />

of Moorea, 30 mins by ferry from Papeete is Moorea<br />

Fishing <strong>Adventure</strong>s (www.mooreafishingadventures.<br />

com). Captain Matahi will show you an amazing day,<br />

they have great success and know how to catch fish, a<br />

great way to spend the day on.<br />

• Any of the island are worth a visit, but if you stay in<br />

Papeete it is only a short ferry ride to Moorea.<br />

• Further north, by plane Bora Bora is the quintessential<br />

tropical paradise and a visual experience to remember.<br />

• If you ever thought about getting a tattoo, get it in Tahiti<br />

– it is a huge part of their culture, and they have some<br />

of the best tattooist in the world – don’t ask for Donald<br />

Duck! But choosing from any of the cultural patterns or<br />

simply asking them to create will be a great memento<br />

for life.<br />

• Internet coverage is pretty much<br />

throughout Tahiti but can be patchy,<br />

some hotels and resorts have free<br />

Wi-Fi, but a better option is to get a<br />

portable router called Tahiti Wi-Fi. These<br />

can be booked in advance, picked<br />

up at the airport or delivered to your<br />

accommodation – these work great<br />

everywhere and are portable.<br />

Sailing<br />

A typical pension home accommodation<br />

Outrigging in the calm waters of the<br />

lagoon<br />

SPECIAL NOTE:<br />

Tahiti has the stereotype of being every<br />

expensive, which it can be as it has some<br />

of the most exclusive resorts in the world,<br />

whole islands in fact dedicated to one or<br />

two visitors. But as with all destination<br />

if you choose with care where you stay,<br />

how you travel and what you eat, it can<br />

be very cost effective. Be prepared, it is<br />

not Southeast Asia, but cost should not<br />

limit your decision to see one of the most<br />

beautiful places on earth.<br />

Tahiti is world famous for its surfing<br />

88//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#236</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//89


Tahitian <strong>Adventure</strong>s<br />

With 118 islands to explore, getting ‘lost’ in the<br />

Islands of Tahiti sounds like the perfect adventure.<br />

A l p i n e R e s o r t<br />

Terrace Restaurant & Bar Open daily<br />

Tongariro Alpine Crossing Shuttles from the door<br />

Backpacker to Superior Family Accommodation<br />

Alpine Hiking Gear Hire on-site<br />

Skotel Alpine Resort | SkotelAlpineResort<br />

Ngauruhoe Place | Whakapapa Village, SH 48<br />

www.skotel.co.nz | info@skotel.co.nz<br />

+64 7 892 3719 | 0800 756 835<br />

The Old Nurses hOme<br />

GuesThOuse<br />

Welcome to The Old Nurses Home Guesthouse<br />

© Grégoire Le Bacon<br />

This historic renovated building in Reefton allows you to enjoy the stunning<br />

Victoria Conservation Park with access to outstanding bush walks, historic<br />

mining sites, and withing walking distance to the famous Inangahua River and<br />

some of the best fishing for trout in NZ. White water raft or kayak the exciting<br />

rivers in the area. Reefton offers a perfect base for MTB riders to explore The<br />

Old Ghost Road from Lyell through the ranges to Seddonville on the West Coast.<br />

www.reeftonaccommodation.co.nz<br />

+6437328881<br />

info@reeftonaccommodation.co.nz


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