SPRING 2023

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The
Good Life France
ISSUE Nọ 33
ISSN 2754-6799
VA VA VOOM
to Vaucluse
Nature holds a party in
picturesque Provence
Slow travel in the
south of France
Discover sun-kissed
gems – by barge!
A palace built
of pebbles
One of the most extraordinary
buildings in France
Magazine
LYON’S world
beating grub
And heavenly wines
Alsace,
Normandy,
Brittany,
Charente
and more…
Guides, tips and gorgeous
photos Riviera
Delicious recipes
to bring a taste of
France to your home
128 pages
of inspirational
features and
gorgeous photos

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Bonjour and bienvenue to The Good Life France Magazine
Spring 2023 issue.
This issue is simply sizzling! As always, it’s chock full of fabulous
features and fantastic photos.
It never ceases to amaze me just how rich the history of
France is – and even more so, just how many traces of the
past remain, preserved in the many historic buildings in every
town and village. In this issue we’ll delve into the past of some
of the great chateaux of the Loire Valley – unbelievably pretty
Ussé (think Sleeping Beauty), Villandry, and the royal castles
of Loches and Chinon where Joan of Arc changed the course
of France’s destiny. We’ll also plunge into Plantagenet history,
and we’ll explore the extraordinary story of a postman who
built a palace from pebbles with his bare hands.
France also has an incredibly diverse landscape – we head
south and explore beauties like gorgeous Sète, Aigues Mortes,
Arles and more. Then north to follow the historic wine route of
Alsace, back to the south to fall in love with glorious Vaucluse
in Provence, where nature has a party in the spring. And we
check out picturesque Perche in Normandy, explore Lyon and
its surroundings, beautiful Brittany and charming les Charentes
– Charente and Charente-Maritime.
Foodies will love the history of St Honoré – the patron saint of
bakers – and also a scrumptious cake. And we’re sharing some
absolutely mouth-watering recipes so you can enjoy a taste of
France at home.
And there’s heaps more – from useful guides to top tours and
what’s new in France.
So, dive into this issue, and don’t forget to subscribe if you’re
not already. The magazine is free (see page 4 to subscribe) so
please share this issue with your friends – that’s free too!
I wish you a very happy spring.
Bisous from my little corner of France
Janine
Janine Marsh
Editor
Follow us on Twitter,
Instagram & Facebook
The Good Life France | 3

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Contributors
24
CONTENTS
The Good Life France Magazine
No. 33 Spring 2023
ISSN 2754-6799
ON THE COVER
8 Oh la Loire!
Fairy tale castles, glorious
vineyards and mouth-watering
gastronomy.
16 Slow Travel in the south of
France
Exploring the most beautiful
villages and towns via the
lagoons and canals of southern
France
Gillian Thornton is an
award-winning travel
writer and member
of the British Guild
of Travel Writers,
specialising in French
destinations and
lifestyle. Her favourite
place? ‘Usually where I
have just been!’
Ally Mitchell is a
blogger and freelance
writer, specialising in
food and recipes. Ally
left the UK to live in
Toulouse in 2021 and
now writes about her
new life in France on
her food blog
NigellaEatsEverything
Jeremy Flint is
an award-winning
photographer
(Association of
Photographers
Discovery Award
Winner, National
Geographic Traveller
Grand Prize Winner,
five-times finalist
Travel Photographer
of the Year) and writer
specialising in travel,
landscape and location
photography.
Natasha Blair is
a member of the
British Guild of Travel
Writers. She became
a Francophile after
studying French
Civilisation for
Foreigners at the
Sorbonne University in
Paris. When possible,
she loves to travel
with her pet passport
carrying dog, Poppy, a
Coton du Tuleur.
Marianne Furnes is a
photographer who lives
in Kristiansand, Norway
where she works as a
patient coordinator at a
Childrens Hospital. Her
stunning photos can be
found on her Instagram
page My French Map
48
16
24 Va va voom to Vaucluse in the
spring
Discover an intoxicating land
of extravagant beauty where
nature holds a party in the
spring.
42 Lyon’s world beating grub
and heavenly wines
Gillian Thornton combines town
and country on a short break to
Lyon and the Beaujolais.
The Good Life France Magazine
Front Cover: Villefranche-sur-Mer by our guest photographer
Marianne Furnes, Instagram
Editor-in-chief: Janine Marsh
Editorial assistant: Trudy Watkins
Press enquiries: editor (at) the Good Life France.com
Advertising: sales (at) the Good Life France.com
Digital support: websitesthatwork.com
Layout design: Philippa French littlefrogdesign.co.uk
ISSN 2754-6799 Issue 33 Spring 2023, released March 2023
48 Hidden Gem: A perfectly
ideal Palace
A palace built by a postman
from stones collected on
his rounds, one of the most
extraordinary buildings in
France.
DISCOVER
30 Pottering around the Perche
Nestled in Normandy’s deep
south, the Perche Regional
Nature Park offers tranquil
forests and tiny hamlets.
4 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 5

36
36 Fairy tale pretty Alsace
A guide to the best villages,
vineyards and castles of Alsace
by award winning photographer
Jeremy Flint.
60 Taste of France: St Honoré
Ally Mitchell investigates the
legend of Saint Honoré and his
importance to the bakers of
France…
65 The spiritual side of the south
of France
A tour that explores the sacred
side of southern France.
70 Plunge into Plantagenet
history
Gillian Thornton follows the
English kings through Anjou and
Normandy.
76 Adventure Sailing holiday
in France
QBE Adventure sailing holidays
for teenagers around the coast
of Brittany aren’t ordinary – they
are life changing experiences…
80 Spotlight on L’Étang de Thau
Natasha Blair explores the pretty
villages strung around a lagoon in
the south of France.
PHOTO SPECIALS
54 Southern France – a land of
enchantment
Photographer Marianne Furnes
captures the magic of Provence.
86 Your photos
Featuring the most beautiful
photos shared on our
Facebook page.
106
92 Tours de France
The very best of France for your
tours and holidays.
123 A sip of Alsace
Wine expert Laurent Yung
explores the home of the oldest
wine route in France.
126 Last word
Life in rural France.
GUIDES
98 French property and
lifestyle show
A must for anyone dreaming or
planning to buy a property in, or
move to, France. .
102 Brittany – Little Britain
Joanna Leggett explores the
culture, history and lifestyle of
Brittany.
106 The laid-back charms of
Les Charentes
Discover a land of endless
beaches and glorious countryside
in southwest France.
BON APPÉTIT
115 Pears in puff pastry
An easy to make but with plenty
of wow factor dessert.
116 Frosted pistachio cake
Deliciously sweet and oh so
pretty, by Héloïse Brion,
Miss Maggie’s Kitchen.
118 Jacques's beef bourguignon
Rich and robust beef stew by
Héloïse Brion, Miss Maggie’s
Kitchen.
120 Braised Ham
Recipe for honey-glazed ham by
Ferrandi Paris.
54
REGULARS
88 What’s New
All the news and events you need
for your next trip to France.
116
4 Subscribe to The Good Life
France Magazine
Everything you want to know
about France and more.
6 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 7

Janine Marsh visits two great Loire Valley cities, home to royal fortresses – Loches
and Chinon, stopping off en route to discover fairy tale castles and indulge in the
gargantuan gastronomic riches of the region…
Oh la
LOIRE
2
There is an area of the Loire Valley known as
Touraine, one of the traditional provinces of
France whose capital was Tours. During the
political reorganization of French territory
in 1790, Touraine was divided between the
departments of Indre-et-Loire, Loir-et-Cher,
Indre and Vienne. It’s a land of castles,
picturesque villages, historic towns and a
tapestry-like landscape of vineyards, forests,
apple and pear orchards and fields of flowers.
Touraine is home to the royal castles of
Chinon and Loches. An hour apart by
car on a road that was commissioned by
Napoleon Bonaparte, the route between
them is peppered with chateaux and
detour-worthy sites…
Chinon
Chinon has been fought over, conquered and
besieged. Its hilltop fortress has been lived in by
Kings and queens through the ages including
Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine, the Elizabeth
Taylor and Richard Burton of the 12th century –
great when in love with each other, destructive
when not. They spent Christmas 1172 there with
their son Richard the Lionheart before it all
went very wrong for this rather dysfunctional
family and they fell out and went to war with
each other. Then Henry imprisoned Eleanor
in Chinon. They never made up and had one
of the messiest separations in history. Henry II
died at Chinon in 1189.
240 years later in February 1429, a 17-yearold
peasant girl called Joan from Lorraine in
northeast France, arrived at the great castle
of Chinon and changed the course of French
history. The Dauphin (son of the deceased
King) was staying there, out of the way of
the English who had taken much of France
including nearby Orléans. Joan persuaded him
to let her lead the French army against the foe
and her victory then led her to Loches which
we’ll come to in a minute.
Chinon
Chinon © Peter Jones
Loches Castle
8 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 9

Chinon Castle
Chinon’s castle is powerful looking, built for
defence, long before the days when the Loire
Valley became the playground of the royals
and castles were built for beauty and comfort.
The castle is so high up that you can actually
take a lift to the top.
The history of this grand castle, though it is
now a great sprawling ruin, is palpable even
though all that remains of the great hall where
Joan of Arc made her fiery speech is the
fireplace. The rest of the room was dismantled
alongside much of the castle by Cardinal
Richelieu in the 17th century. He had the stone
transported to create the town of Richelieu
20km away.
The cobbled streets are lined with ancient
houses. This is where the great monk,
philosopher, physician, and writer Rabelais
lived, born it is said on the road just outside
Chinon. He wrote coarse, satirical novels,
his most famous being about two giants with
huge appetites Gargantua (from which we get
the word gargantuan) and Pantagruel, whose
character enjoys wine in Chinon’s former
Roman stone quarries turned cellars.
Place Jeanne d’Arc hosts a twice weekly
market (Thursday/Sunday) and is one of
the best in the region, with stalls brimming
with local produce. It’s the perfect place to
taste the local goat cheese Sainte-Maure de
Touraine, made nearby in the village of the
Chateau d'Usse © Jean-Christophe Coutand
same name. Don’t miss Rue Voltaire which has
the prettiest houses, and pop into the plentiful
boutiques and gourmet shops to stock up on
specialities like marmalade of Touraine, wine
and red wine jam.
Dine at: Les Années 30 in an old mansion
house, 78 rue Haute-Saint-Maurice.
Three must-see castles between Chinon and Loches
Chateau of Azay-le-Rideau © Carmen Pippenger
Château d’Ussé: A stone’s throw from
the river Indre, sitting atop a ridge, this
unbelievably pretty castle is part renaissance,
part Gothic – totally fairy tale. Teeming
with towers and turrets of white tufa stone,
spanning architectural styles from the 1400s
to the 1600s, view it from the bridge across
the river and you’ll think you’ve dreamed
yourself straight into a Sleeping Beauty scene.
So it may come as no surprise to discover
that Charles Perrault (1628-1703), the great
French writer of fairy tales, used this castle as
the setting for his tale la Belle au bois dormant
– Sleeping Beauty.
The 17th century Mansard staircase is
stunning and the rooms are beautifully
decorated including a ‘royal’ bedroom.
Prepared for King Louis XVI it is dominated
by a voluptuous 4-poster bed though alas –
the King never arrived.
Head up into the attic for a raft of rooms
presenting a sleeping beauty scenario
featuring the Wicked Queen, Aurora, her
prince and a whole host of animated fairy
tale favourites. From the top of the castle
the views over the beautiful terraced gardens
below are outstanding.
The Château of Azay-le-Rideau is a little
gem of a castle. I’ve been to a lot of castles,
many are majestic and magnificent but cold
and draughty, and you certainly wouldn’t want
to be lumbered with heating them, but this is a
castle you can imagine living in. Human-sized,
charming and enchanting. Read more about
Azay-le-Rideau here.
A stone’s throw from Azay is the town of
Saché, where the great French writer Balzac,
who was born in Tours, lived in a chateau
belonging to his mother’s lover which is now
a museum. Several of his novels are set in the
Loire Valley “I love it,” he wrote of Touraine,
“not as one loves the cradle of his childhood,
nor as one loves an oasis in the desert; I love it
as an artist loves art.”
Dine at: Follow in Balzac’s footsteps and have
dinner at his favourite restaurant L’Auberge du
12ème Siècle. If only the walls could talk…
1 Rue du Château
Stay at: The utterly charming Hotel de
Biencourt in Azay-le-Rideau
Chateau de Villandry
10 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 11

workshops and wine caves, and in the village
of Rivarennes you can taste the famous
local Poire tapée – dried and flattened pear.
In spring don’t miss the beautiful village
of Crissay-sur-Manse and the Vallée de la
Manse, famous for its host of golden daffodils.
This area is so rich in history you come across
one gem after another.
to go to Reims to be crowned King Charles
VII, a defining moment in French history. His
mistress, the beautiful Agnes Sorel died at
Loches aged just 28, and her alabaster tomb
in the castle is exquisite.
At Loches the nasty King Louis XI, son of
Charles VII, hung small iron cages from the
ceiling which he would lock up for years those
who displeased him. The overflow of prisoners
ended up in the dungeons including Ludovica
Sforza, Duke of Milan and one time patron of
Leonardo da Vinci, who lived the last years
of his life not far away in Amboise, a guest of
Francois 1er.
Montrésor © Leonard-de-Serres
Château de Villandry has gorgeous gardens
that are guaranteed to give you garden
envy. Explore a living tapestry of plants and
flowers, but don’t miss a visit inside the castle
which is also utterly glorious. Still lived in,
it’s sumptuously furnished and beautifully
decorated. The castle shop is brilliant, full
of superb souvenirs and packets of seeds
grown on site so that you can take a little of
Villandry’s magic home with you.
Top tip: Lunch at EmmaGine, in nearby
Berthenay which serves local and seasonal
dishes, flavoured with edible aromatic plants
– the food is heavenly. Take aways, lunch,
dinner, events, a lovely restaurant and pretty
terrace garden.
Eemagine-leboutdeumonde.fr
What to see and do nearby:
Have a picnic in the forest of Chinon or
wander the pretty village of Saint-Benoît-la-
Forêt where Louis XI kept his falcons.
Take a detour along the route de Trogladytes.
The tufa stone that was dug out to create
castles, abbeys and mansions left behind a
labyrinth of underground passages, some
of them have been turned into homes,
Beaulieu-sur-Loches
Loches
Strangely, the Royal City of Loches which
sits on the bank of the River Indre, isn’t at
the top of Loire Valley must-sees – and
yet it is utterly enchanting. Most people
are swept off their feet by the Renaissance
glories that pepper the Loire Valley such as
Chambord and Chenonceau, so the older
Chinon and Loches tend to be overlooked.
Loches Hotel de la Ville
Montrésor
An imposing 1000-year-old castle is perched
atop a hill dominating the pale stone medieval
town spread at its feet. There are no modern
buildings here, it really is pickled in the past,
even the town hall is in a 500-year-old
building that looks like a castle.
It was here, in the great hall of Loches Castle,
that, after her victory against the English at
Orleans, Joan of Arc persuaded the Dauphin
The upper town is reached by a chestthumping
walk up a hill but it’s worth it. It’s
a town for wandering, with sloping cobbled
streets, walled gateways and elegant squares.
Wednesdays and Saturdays are market days.
Don’t miss: The Lansyer Museum, former
home of artist Emmanuel Lansyer (1835-1893,
considered to be one of the best landscape
painters of his time. The museum feels as
though he still lives there, and presents many
of his paintings. There are great views over
the city and the Royal Gate Terrace from the
romantic gardens.
What to see nearby: Nip to neighbouring
Beaulieu-les-Loches to explore the tiny town
which was once more important than Loches.
Home to the 11th century Holy Trinity Abbey,
now the town hall. You can reach the village
by bike or on foot, via the Prairies du Roy
(King’s meadow), an eco-tourism site. It’s an
enchanting village where you’ll spot Maison
Agnes Sorel and the gorgeous allotment
gardens kept by the locals.
Vineyards are being reintroduced to the area
around Loches - at Montrésor for instance,
a plus beaux village de France. This little
gem has an ivy-covered castle with gorgeous
gardens. In July and August as dusk falls,
wander along the river to enjoy the free light
show – the Nuits Solaires.
Smell the roses at the lovely village of
Chedigny near Loches, famous for its display.
12 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 13

Loire Brakes
Loire Brakes
Slow Down And Enjoy The View
Tour the beautiful Loire Valley at your own pace with a guided e-bike holiday
loirebrakes.com
Read more about it.
Dine out: Arbores et Sens. Pass through a
bijou terrace with a magnificent wisteria
canopy to a stunning restaurant with
a tree in the middle. As you listen to
birdsong, feast on tiny amuse bouches
like works of art, and seriously, I mean
seriously, delicious food. Refined but not
stuffy, very talented chef and local boy
Clément Dumont was awarded a Michelin
Star in March 2023.
Locals love: Restaurant Les Racines dans
les assiettes, this is where the locals go
if they want a slap-up meal and a good
glass of wine. 12 Place de l’Hotel de Ville.
Aperitifs at: Terrace bar of the Best
Western Hotel, the former Palais de
Justice, from where you have a stunning
view over the royal city.
INFO
Loches can be reached by train from Tours
(one hour). Chinon can be reached from
Tours by train in around 50 minutes. Tours
is easily reached from Paris by train (from
one hour).
Take a guided tour of the area by e-bike
with Loire Valley Brakes to discover off the
beaten track gems and have a slow travel
experience that takes you to the heart of the
Loire. Loirebrakes.com
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14 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 15

SLOW TRAVEL
at its very best in the
south of France
Janine Marsh explores lagoons and
canals and falls head over heels for
barge travel…
The French have a word for those who like to
stroll without a goal other than to enjoy the
adventure and unexpected joys and beauty
encountered en route – to flâner. I’m not sure
there is a word for wandering by barge, but I
can tell you that the experience of travelling
slowly on the Rhone Canal in the sun-kissed
south of France is one you’ll never forget
During my trip I would step back in time
some 2,500 years, encounter extraordinary
wildlife, visit some of the most beautiful
towns and villages I’ve ever seen, make
new friends and explore the heritage,
culture, gastronomy and wine of southern
France. And I, like the rest of the guests on
CroisiEurope’s MS Anne Marie barge, would
be thoroughly spoiled, utterly pampered and
totally enthralled by the entire experience.
Barging on an
extraordinary waterway
Sète was the starting point for our journey
– a sunny, vibrant city that sits between the
Mediterranean Sea and the Etang de Thau,
a biodiverse saltwater lagoon (you can read
more about Sète and the local area on page
80). Fresh fish is sold along the quays and
oyster tasting is de rigeur – washed down with
a glass of local Picpoul, a very old French
wine, made in the Languedoc for at least 400
years. There’s even a museum dedicated to
oysters and those who fish for them, reached
by a mulberry tree lined avenue that’s
brimming with cafes and bistros, overlooking
the sparkling, azure blue lagoon.
By the end of the first night on board, all the
guests were chatting as if friends, rather than
strangers who met just a few hours before. A
mix of Swiss, American, British, Norwegian,
Belgian and French, though everyone spoke
English including the staff who are brilliant,
Sète
consummate professionals. The bedrooms are
comfy, charming and air conditioned, the food
and wine is amazing, bikes are provided and
there’s a hot tub on deck.
Our journey from Sète to Arles took us along
the famous Canal du Rhône – a perfectly
tranquil waterway that runs through the
middle of a lagoon, it looks like a channel
carved from the sea. It’s extraordinary,
beautiful, otherworldly even. At times we
were followed by shoals of fish sparkling in the
crystal clear blue green water and watched by
flocks of pale pink flamingos. Cyclists passed
by on the paths that run alongside the canal
peppered with herbs and plants that thrive
in the salty sea air and hot sun whose scent
16 | The Good Life France Pink sea Aigues Mortes
The Good Life France | 17

carries onto the deck. Oysters cling to the
walls and seabirds float on the calm surface
waiting for fish to pop up. Relaxing on deck
with a book, watching the wildlife, listening
to the gentle lapping of the water in between
stopping at some of the most beautiful and
fascinating places in southern France – well it
doesn’t get much better.
Brutal but brilliant
At Palavas-les-Flots we joined holiday makers
and locals for a dip in the Med. It’s an unusual
town, established as a customs fort and a
fishing village late in the 18th century. Its
fortunes changed in the 1950s when President
Charles de Gaulle decreed holidays should
be available for all people in France and had
several purpose-built resorts created along the
south coast – including here.
Arles Roman Arena
Stes Maries
“Brutalism” is what they call the architectural
style of the concrete apartment blocks that
were rather hurriedly slung up. But no one
cares, you don’t come here to sit indoors,
the silk soft sandy beaches are endless, and
the water is warm. A woman walked along
the beach selling sticky, sweet donuts like
something out of a 1960s French film and I
half expected Brigitte Bardot to come trotting
along. Sunbathers were stretched out in rows,
and one of the Norwegian ladies from the
barge whispered to me “I’m an undertaker and
looking at all these bodies lying on the beach
makes me want to tie a label to their toes”
which made all of us laugh out loud. Old folk
were sat sensibly under colourful parasols, the
sea was full of people swimming and splashing,
seagulls hovered overhead ready to swoop on
anything that looked like it might taste good,
little kids made sandcastles, it was easy to see
why this place is popular despite the brutalist
blocks.
The Camargue
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is the capital of the
Camargue. It’s the highest point in the area
Palavas les Flots
at just 3m above sea level. 80% of the land
is less than 1m above sea level and so lots of
dikes and dams have been built to prevent
flooding and the salt water of the Rhône
flows into the canals that cross the land. It’s a
fertile area, rice is grown in the marshy lands
which helps to combat the salinity in the soil
which in turn helps the vineyards to flourish.
Everywhere there are vast fields of sunflowers,
grain and vegetables.
Arles
The town of Saintes-Maries is all about the
yellow-stone church in the centre in which
resides a famous statue. Legend has it that
some disciples of Jesus, including Mary
Jacobi and Mary Salome and a servant
called Sarah, fled Palestine in a boat and
landed on the beach here. They are said to
have been buried in the crypt and the town
has become a place of pilgrimage for gypsies
whose patron saint is Sarah. The statue of her
Arles
in the crypt is covered in sparkly cloaks placed
there by worshippers. It’s a festive and very
colourful place.
We stopped off at a ranch nearby to meet
some of the famous black bulls and white
horses of the Camargue and the guardians,
like French cowboys and cowgirls, who herd
them. Read more about the Camargue
here. We stopped off at a ranch nearby to
18 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 19

Aigues Morte
meet some of the famous black bulls and
white horses of the Camargue and the
guardians, like French cowboys and cowgirls,
who herd them.
It was built in 1240 on the orders of Louis IX, a
strange choice you might think since its name
literally translates to “dead waters”, derived
from the tidal salt flats on which the town sits.
But it was an ideal position for trade in the south
of France. It’s a perfectly preserved, pickled in
the past Provençal town, with 10 gates and 14
towers, and in its heyday, it was a major port,
though it’s now marooned three miles from
the sea. The flower-filled streets spread out
around a central plane tree filled square in the
middle of which is a statue of King Louis atop
a fountain in which children play. Not only is it
a beautiful little town, it’s on the edge of the
famous pink salt lakes which feature the largest
colony of flamingos in Europe.
We hopped aboard a little tourist train for a
guided tour of the lakes and the salt museum.
The sight of miles and miles of pink sea and in
the background, shimmering like a mirage, the
walled town of Aigues Mortes is astounding.
You almost feel as if you’re on another planet.
Mountains of salt are harvested here, just as it
has been since the days of antiquity.
It’s a tall order to live up to that visit but Saint-
Guilhem-le-Desert, another bucket lister for
A bucket list of southern
France
This trip ticked off several bucket list
destinations for me – the first being Aigues-
Mortes. We moored up under the shade
of a tree, a stone’s throw from the great
arched entrance to the walled city. Medieval
Aigues-Mortes is surrounded by 11m high
ramparts, dominated by the 33m high Tour
de Constance from which you can spot
Nimes – 40 km away and criss crossed by
winding cobbled streets lined with boutiques,
restaurants and ancient houses.
Canal du Rhone a Sète
20 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 21

UNIQUE FRENCH RIVER CRUISES
Europe’s largest river cruise operator,
successfully welcoming UK clients since 2003.
me, stepped up to the plate. Officially one of
the prettiest villages in France, it is tranquil
even in peak summer months as it’s rather
off the beaten track. Read more about Saint-
Guilhem-le-Desert here.
And finally, another bucket list destination
– Arles. The ancient city is nothing short
of magnificent. Romans remains, ancient
churches, winding cobbled streets, art
galleries, street theatre, incredible restaurants.
Van Gogh’s vision of Arles is evident, the
scenes he painted here including Café Terrace
at Night and Starry Night Over the Rhône, are
marked with information boards in the town.
And the hospital where he was admitted after
cutting off his ear is now a lively and bustling
cultural hub, lined with small boutiques and
restaurants set around a colourful inner
courtyard. I’d been told that everyone who
sees Arles falls in love with it – and I did too.
(Read more about Arles here)
On our last night, as the sun set over Arles,
its golden rays sparkling on the water, a
singer/guitarist arrived to perform for us on
deck. His voice carried across the water
and passers-by stopped to sit and listen to
the impromptu concert. I couldn’t st Guilhem help le Desert but
feel what a privilege it was to be there, it
was more than a holiday, I made friends,
explored the most beautiful corners of
France, and was thoroughly spoiled by
Hans, the super host, and his daily cocktails
and the chef’s fabulous meals.
Find out more and book your trip at:
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All prices and offers are based on two adults sharing a cabin, are correct at time of going to press, subject to availability, apply to new bookings only, cannot be applied retrospectively and can be withdrawn
at any time. Terms and conditions apply. All the flight-inclusive holidays are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you pay you will be supplied with an ATOL Certificate. Please ask for it and check
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All inclusive for drinks
onboard (1)
22 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 23

© Alain-Hocquel VPA
The Great outdoors
Spring in Provence brings the promise of warm,
sunny days and it’s the perfect time to get out
and about and enjoy the countryside. There
are two major nature parks - Mont Ventoux
Regional Park and the Luberon Regional
Natural Park which is spread over 185,000
hectares and includes 51 villages in Vaucluse.
Go cycling or hiking through the vineyards,
from the pebbly ground of Châteauneuf-du-
Pape to the limestone foothills of Ventoux and
the clay soil of the Luberon plain, to discover
the Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Clairette, and
Bourboulenc grapes that make the wine so
special here.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape was where the popes
who once lived in the historic city of Avignon in
the 14th century, spent their summer holidays.
They loved the wines grown here and today
some of the most renowned wines in the world
come from this little village and its surroundings.
Visitors are spoiled for wine tastings in
Chateauneuf-du-Pape including at the newly
opened Vinothèque, the official wine outlet
and showroom, and even at the Musée du Vin
Brotte where you can discover all about the
history of the wine. You can also try chocolate
VA VA VOOM to
Vaucluse in the spring…
When spring arrives, the villages and countryside of Vaucluse in Provence burst
into life. Fields of crimson poppies sit alongside orchards full of blossoming apricot,
cherry and olive trees. Head to one of the many beautiful villages to find your
perfect place to sit and watch the world go by from a terraced café. Visit colourful
markets brimming with fabulous local produce. Get up early to watch the sun rise
over the majestic Palace of the Popes in Avignon, and sip aperitifs under the stars.
Vaucluse is an intoxicating land of extravagant natural beauty and in the spring,
nature has a party on its lands!
Flassan © A Hocquel, VPA
24 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 25

Dreamy photogenic landscape scenery is
not rare in Vaucluse, but I guarantee that
the dazzling sight of the soft sun lighting
up a carpet of crimson poppies in April and
May will make you gasp. One of the prettiest
places for poppy-watching is at the village of
Lacoste which looks out towards Bonnieux
and the Luberon Valley or near Carpentras,
between the fortified village of Caromb and
Le Barroux, one of the most beautiful villages
in Provence. Also, the poppy fields are glorious
between Bedoin and Crillon-le-Brave - where
you can indulge in what has to be one of the
best Sunday brunches in France at the 5-star
Hotel Crillon-le-Brave.
Chateauneuf-du-pape
As wild birds trill out their welcome to spring
and blossom scents the air, you feel the
countryside bursting into vibrant life all around
you and as feel-good factors go, this is pretty
unbeatable and unbeatably pretty. (Outdoor
activities in Vaucluse)
Fontaine de Vaucluse © Julie Whitmarsh
and wine pairing at the Maison Bouachon, and
a tasting and informative session at Ecole des
Vins Mouriesse, a renowned wine school. And
if you happen to be there at the end of March
you can enjoy the largest Châteauneufdu-Pape
wine tasting event. The Printemps
de Châteauneuf-du-Pape features more
than 100 wine growers from the prestigious
appellation, and a Slow Food market is set up
outside for everyone to sit around large tables
with a glass of Châteauneuf and a bite to eat.
There’s no wine snobbery here, just passionate
wine makers, keen to share their passion for
the grape. (Vineyard visits in Vaucluse).
The vineyards sit alongside apricot and
cherry orchards that in early spring are
blossoming and by late spring are fruiting.
Enjoy a picnic with producers and stop off
at little hilltop villages for an al fresco break
at a welcoming café or restaurant. Spring
brings abundance and the markets are full
of fresh produce - luscious strawberries,
sweet cherries, juicy apricots, artichokes
and herbs, cheeses and brightly coloured
baskets. Every village has a market, and
they are the perfect place to taste
artisan chocolate, meet a goat’s cheese
maker, quaff local wines, and enjoy sweet
lavender honey and local olive oil made at
an authentic mill.
Why not take a cookery lesson using herbs
that you’ve picked, and produce you bought
at the market. And don’t forget to sit out
under the clear night skies and watch for
shooting stars as you enjoy a gourmet break.
The taste of Vaucluse is unforgettable…
Gorgeous spring Gardens
The Vaucluse is teeming with gorgeous
gardens you can visit. One of the most
beautiful is Le Pavillon de Galon on the edge
of Cucuron – if you’ve seen the film “A Good
Year”, you’ll recognise this village! With its
landscape lapping at the foot of the Luberon,
Le Pavillon de Galon is a magnificent
garden brimming with Mediterranean plants,
vineyards, fig and cherry trees, lavender,
an olive grove and more – it’s a snapshot
of Provence’s natural bounty. (Visit upon
reservation).
In Avignon the garden of the Palace of the
Popes is a secluded secret of the city. Fully
restored in 2020, there are deckchairs for
relaxing in the wonderfully landscaped areas
including the Benedict XII Garden and the
Papal Garden. The popes had direct access
to the gardens from their chambers and today
the gardens feature plants that were popular
at the time of the Popes as well as a replica of
an ancient fountain surrounded by flowering
meadows in the spring. One of the best ways
to visit is to get up early to watch the sun rise
over the Palace of the Popes, enjoy a leisurely
coffee and croissant as you watch the city
come to life, wander the Papal gardens, and
then go island hopping!
The Ile de la Barthelasse is the biggest river
island in France and is like a huge garden
in itself! Take a free, 5-minute ferry service
to the island from near the famous Pont
d’Avignon, a stone’s throw from the Papal
garden. From the island there are beautiful
26 | The Good Life France Villedieu © Erica de Roos
The Good Life France | 27

Palais des Papes
Pont d'Avignon looking over Ile de la Barthelasse
views of the famous bridge, the palace and
the city walls. You can buy local produce
at the Ferme de la Reboule and have lunch
beside the water at Le Bercail restaurant.
Wander or cycle the plane tree shaded paths
that wind between apple trees and cherry
orchards and stop at the Manguin Distillery
where they make pastis and pear brandy.
Don’t miss the Rose des Arts rose garden in
nearby Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. In May and June,
3,500 bushes of pink Centifolia Baptistine
roses burst into bloom and fill the air with
their perfume. In the 18th century this grand
rose became a favourite for use in the gloves
made for the rich and the royals of Europe
including Queen Marie Antoinette. The petals
in this gorgeous garden are harvested to make
perfume, rose coulis to add to Champagne,
rose flavoured chocolates and syrups.
One more unmissable garden is near the town
Pavillon de Gallon © Georges Levecque
of Orange which is famous for its incredible
Roman remains. Here you will find the Harmas
de Jean Henri Fabre garden. Fabre was a
multi-talented man – a scientist, collector,
painter and writer (1823-1915), as well as
passionate about nature. He deliberately left
his garden in Sérignan-du-Comtat as fallow
land to attract as many insects as possible.
Every spring the Festival of Rare Plants &
Natural Gardens is held in the town, with
nursery owners, landscape gardeners and
artisans from all over France taking part in this
event which is perfect for anyone interested in
nature and protecting it.
Spring in Provence is a little bit of
heaven on earth…
Find details of all the markets, gardens,
and gorgeous places to visit in Vaucluse at:
provenceguide.com
28 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 29
©LezBroz

Nestled in Normandy’s deep south, the Perche Regional Nature Park offers tranquil
forests, bijou communities, and some seriously impressive horsepower. Gillian
Thornton steps down a gear.
Pottering
round the PERCHE
Ask me to describe my perfect destination
for a spot of rest and relaxation and I’ll
usually plump for rolling countryside, historic
villages, and cosy restaurants. Add in a few
independent shops or markets for some gentle
retail therapy and you’ve almost ticked all my
boxes. Only thing missing would be some kind
of animal content, preferably with an activity
attached.
So as I jolt happily down a woodland track in
a horse-drawn open carriage, I have to say
that the Perche Regional Natural Park (PNR)
offers everything I need for the perfect chillout
break. Located in the south-east corner
of Normandy, the Perche is just 140km from
Paris, making it a popular weekend destination
for city dwellers as well as for cross-Channel
visitors.
Most of the park lies within the department
of Orne, spilling over into the Centre region
east of Nogent-le-Rotrou, and its protected
status covers both natural scenery and built
landscape, heritage sites and rural traditions.
Amongst those traditions is the Percheron
heavy horse, believed to date back to the 11th
century when Rotrou, Count of the Perche,
brought Arabian stallions back from the First
Crusade and crossed them with local heavy
horses.
Usually grey, but occasionally black,
Percherons are good-natured, gentle, and
ideally suited to working the forests and small
hedge-lined fields or bocage of southern
Normandy. Once a common sight on farms
throughout the area, their numbers declined
sharply as agriculture became increasingly
mechanised between the wars. But now,
thanks to a group of dedicated enthusiasts,
breeding is steadily on the up.
Since the early 1990s, Percheron stallions
imported from America have been bred with
French mares to produce two main types – a
30 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 31
Photo by Dawne Polis, redbubble.com

draught horse used for farming and hauling
timber, and a lighter animal used for riding,
driving and competitions. As someone who
has ridden all my life but rarely experienced
carriage driving, I booked a two-hour
excursion from the Ferme de l’Absoudière in
Cordon for a taste of traditional horsepower.
And what power! Seated up beside the driver, I
watch two sets of powerful hindquarters sway
rhythmically to the sound of jangling harness
as we trot down country lanes and forest
tracks. It’s a magical if slightly bumpy way to
travel!
But horsepower is just one way to explore the
Perche. There’s a wealth of inspiration at the
Maison du Parc, administrative centre and
visitor facility for the Regional Nature Park
which stands in the grounds of the Manoir du
Courboyer, a 15th century turreted manor
house a short drive from Cordon at Nocé.
Meet other local livestock breeds, buy artisan
products, and sample regional farm produce
such as cider, honey and cheese.
This rural corner of Normandy is bisected by
the GR22 and GR35, two Grande Randonnée
long distance hiking trails, as well as the
Chemin de Chartres leading to Mont-Saint-
Michel. Or try the 220km Tour des Collines du
Perche which splits neatly into eight segments
for walkers and four for cycle tourists. Too
energetic? Then follow one of nine tranquil
driving routes that include Forests and Abbeys,
Chateaux and Lakes, and Valleys and Mills.
The Perche may be a rural area of farmland
and forest, but it also boasts a long industrial
heritage. The woods provided charcoal, the
rivers powered mills and foundries, and the
ground yielded raw materials of iron and clay.
Watch out for the label Savoir-faire du Parc
Naturel Régional du Perche to identify crafts
people still using local materials.
Nothing in the Perche proves to be much
more than an hour from my base at the
delightful Hôtel du Tribunal at Mortagne-au-
Perche, a buzzing market town of just 4,500
inhabitants that was once the administrative
centre for the Counts of Perche. Today the
Manoir Courboyer
Belleme in the Perche PNR
medieval rampart walls have mostly gone
but the historic streets are still dotted with
fine buildings, not to mention 27 sundials.
Follow the numbered panels on the Circuit du
Patrimoine and prepare for some surprises.
The modern medical facility, for instance,
has retained the exquisite cloister of a 16th
century convent. Take in the wooden roof
timbers shaped like an upturned boat before
heading inside the vast painted chapel. Enjoy
the panoramic countryside views from the
public gardens behind the Town Hall and
maybe sample the town’s signature foodie
treat – black pudding. Every producer has
his own secret recipe. The Saturday morning
market is also loaded with local foodie
temptation, an atmospheric way to absorb the
area’s gastronomic traditions.
The Perche forests are full of impressive
giant trees – particularly oak and beech - but
equally arresting are the lofty twin towers of
the Chappelle de Montligeon, built between
1896 and 1911 by parish priest Abbé Buguet.
His aim was to deliver souls left in purgatory
and promote social justice and whilst the
basilica is today a place of pilgrimage, it is
also a business centre based on the printing
works that he founded. Pop inside to admire
the stained-glass windows.
Local commerce is largely small scale.
Expect small, artisan businesses such as
antique dealers and galleries, bookshops,
woodworkers, and furniture restorers, not
to mention family-run restaurants and tea
rooms. Outside Mortagne-au-Perche, I find
Chez Nous Campagne, where Cécile Schmitt
combines a boutique selling interior décor
items with a tearoom and gîte business, all in
one tempting package.
And there is more retail temptation in
Bellême, former capital of the Perche, and in
nearby La Perrière. Both have been labelled
Petites Cités de Caractère by the Orne
department along with Longny-au-Perche.
Gifts to take home? Try La Savonnerie de La
Chappelle in Bellême for soaps, candles, and
a whole lot more, and don’t miss Chocolaterie
32 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 33

Basilica at Montligeon
Belleme
Bataille, where artisan chocolate-maker
Christophe Henninger creates seasonal
chocolates for every occasion. In La Perrière,
browse for local produce, antiques, and dried
flowers at Monteloup, a stylish boutique with
three chambre d’hôte bedrooms upstairs run by
antique dealer Jérôme and expert florist Gil.
Largest town in the Perche is Nogent-le-Rotrou,
just over the regional border in the department
of Eure-et-Loir. Classified amongst Michelin’s
100 Plus Beaux Détours de France, this historic
community of fewer than 10,000 people stands
in the Huisne valley, dominated by Saint-Jean
Castle which was once home to – you guessed
it – the Counts of Perche. Stroll through the
reconstructed medieval and Renaissance
gardens around the castle and Bellême’s Belle
Epoque public gardens, just two of many floral
plots that welcome visitors throughout the Perche.
Head east from Nogent to visit Thiron-
Gardais, home to Thiron Abbey. Founded in
the 12th century, the buildings were largely
destroyed after the Revolution but the abbey
itself still acts as the parish church and access
to the thematic gardens is free. Or head west,
back towards Bellême to visit the Ecomusée
du Perche within the ancient walls of the 11th
century priory of Sainte-Gauburge at Saint-
Cyr-la-Rosière.
Whichever way you turn, the Perche is a
delight for anyone who wants to step down a
gear and relax amongst tranquil countryside
and atmospheric villages. A breath of fresh air
whichever way you look at it!
Useful websites:
normandie-tourisme.fr
parc-naturel-perche.fr/en
ornetourisme.com
hotel-tribunal.fr
34 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 35

The north-eastern French region of Alsace
is a place of scenic splendour and historical
wonder with picturesque small towns, colourful
half-timbered houses and vineyards carpeting
the landscape. Away from the conventional
travel routes of Paris, Provence and the Côte
d’Azur, this cultural corner is less than 6
hour’s drive from Calais and one of the most
beautiful and undiscovered places in France.
Alsace borders Germany and Switzerland,
and lies on the west bank of the river Rhine,
between the rhine and the Vosges mountains
with Lorraine and Franche Comté to the west.
There are many wonderful locations to visit
in Alsace, this guide highlights the most
impressive sights to see and capture on camera
within the region.
Fairy-tale
pretty ALSACE
A guide to the best villages, vineyards and castles of Alsace by award winning
photographer Jeremy Flint.
Riquewihr
Strasbourg Cathedral
Alsace Wine Route
A tour along the Route des Vins d’Alsace
(Alsace wine route) that spans the wine
growing area over 170km and five regions
from near Strasbourg in the north to just south
of Colmar uncovers some of the best things
to discover in the area. This classic Alsatian
wine route is one of France’s oldest and most
popular drives that traverses the heart of the
region. The journey takes you through a multicoloured
landscape of luxurious green vines,
perched castles, pleasant mountains, and
attractive villages where you can savour, swirl
and purchase aromatic Alsace vintages at one
of the many roadside wine cellars.
Strasbourg
Alsace comprises a mix of French and
German heritage reflecting each country’s
control of the area over the centuries. The
wonderful blend of French and German
culture is evident in the fairy-tale towns and
villages that line the route with their halftimbered
houses and cobblestone streets. Set
on the Rhine, Strasbourg is one of the finest
medieval towns in Northeast France and one
of the most photogenic places you can visit
36 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 37

The highlight of Hunawihr is its fortified
church Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur which sits
amongst vineyards on a hillside at the edge
of the village. After witnessing this fantastic
sight, head into the walled hamlet to see the
Schickardt House, the Renaissance Town Hall
and the Fountain of St. Hune. Last but not
least, visit the cellars of this well-established
wine-producing village to sample the
exceptional liquor. Hunawihr is also home to a
stork re-introduction centre so keep your eyes
peeled and you will likely spot storks in nature.
Riquewihr
in Alsace. With its historical monuments and
striking architecture, the city’s finest building
Notre-Dame Cathedral should be top of your
list. Don’t miss Strasbourg’s historic centre
the Grande Île (large island), a UNESCO
World Heritage site where you can stroll
through atmospheric alleyways and admire
elegant buildings and historic churches before
enjoying the café-filled squares.
Riquewihr
with the region including the local Kirchberg
de Ribeauvillé, Osterberg and Geisberg.
Hunawihr
Whilst each village is full of unique and
colourful buildings combined with traditional
character, Hunawihr is no exception, situated
a mere 2km from Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr.
Château du Haut-
Koenigsbourg
An alternative castle worth visiting, located
in the Orschwiller commune, 10 minutes from
Ribeauvillé is the medieval Château du Haut-
Koenigsbourg that sits 757 metres above the
Alsace plains. You can explore the furnished
fortress and discover its medieval weapon
collections before scaling to the summit of
the bastion for fantastic views over the Vosges
mountains and the Black Forest beyond.
Ribeauvillé
South of Strasbourg, Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr
are two of the most beautiful villages in France
and are situated relatively close to each
other. Ribeauvillé is a Route des Vins must,
encompassed by vineyards and mountains.
Its impressive buildings and fortified castles
are the main draw including the 18th century
Hôtel de Ville (town hall) and its prestigious
collection of silver goblets besides the wellmaintained
Tour des Bouchers (Butchers’
tower). Perched high on a mountainside
overlooking the medieval village, Saint Ulrich
Castle stands proud as the oldest and bestpreserved
castle of its kind, surrounded by an
endless forested landscape.
Ribeauvillé Saint Ulrich Castle
Riquewihr
Taking a historic walk through the elegant
Medieval ramparts, hidden courtyards and
brightly coloured architecture is a great way
to explore the enchanting village of Riquewihr.
Venture onto the neighbouring hills to get a real
sense of Riquewihr’s chocolate box lid pretty
looks, and to appreciate its peaceful nature.
For centuries, the vineyards of Riquewihr and
Ribeauvillé have produced some of the most
incredible wines of Alsace and the world. Wine
lovers will adore the fresh and full-bodied
Grand Cru appellation varieties, synonymous
Hunawihr
38 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 39

Saint-Hippolyte
At the foot of the Haut Koenigsbourg, Saint-
Hippolyte is a wonderfully traditional village
with timbered houses and quintessential
Alsatian architecture. The 14th century
parish church was modified in the 15th
century by having a belltower added to it
in 1822, making it an extremely photogenic
church and an incredible piece of Italian
gothic architecture. Within the village’s old
medieval walls, you will see the Tour des
Cigognes (Stork’s tower) topped with nesting
stalks, the town hall and a fountain, dating
back to 1555, that adorns the square.
Massif des Vosges –
Vosges mountains
To the west of Colmar, the enchanting
forests and softly rounded pastures of
the Vosges Mountain range are often
cloaked in mist and make a great subject
for photography at any time of the year.
With secluded lakes and refreshing
views, the mountain range is a fantastic
adventure playground offering a great
base for walking adventures and mountainbiking
where you can experience varied
landscapes and summit nature trails.
Colmar
Colmar
The beautiful town of Colmar makes for a
great day trip along the Alsace wine route. It’s
well-preserved old town, plentiful architectural
landmarks and winding canals offer excellent
opportunities for photography. Take a stroll
along the Grand Rue (high street) for shots of
rainbow-coloured houses and explore Petite
Venise (the Little Venice quarter) on foot or by
rowing boat for its narrow street and charming
canal views.
Driving the Route des Crêtes, an 89 km
road in the Vosges Mountains that passes
through the Parc Naturel Régional des
Ballons des Vosges ensures idyllic views.
Hike up to the peak of Grand Ballon, the
highest point in the region at 1424 metres
for breath-taking panoramas.
Wherever you choose to visit in Alsace,
you will not be disappointed with its scenic
splendour, architectural delights, and
wonderful half-timbered houses.
40 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 41

Gillian Thornton combines town and country on a short break to Lyon and
the Beaujolais
‘Now stir the mushrooms into the spelt
mixture…’ Chef Sébastien Mathieu hands me
a bowl of fresh girolles, painstakingly diced
earlier by my own fair hand, and I add them to
the fragrant risotto. An irresistible aroma wafts
up from the simmering pan.
Magical things happen when you book a
cookery lesson at the Institut Paul Bocuse in
the heart of historic Lyon. Over the last two
hours, our little band of six eager students has
chopped vegetables, made garnishes, and
generally hung on to Sébastien’s every word as
we watch him prepare our dinner, all the time
passing on techniques perfected in some of
the world’s best kitchens.
WORLD BEATING
grub and
heavenly wines
France’s “capital of
gastronomy”
Lyon has long been acknowledged as the
capital of French gastronomy, largely thanks
to the presence of legendary chef Paul
Bocuse. The great man died in 2018 but his
influence lives on through his restaurants
and through the city’s indoor food market,
renamed the Halles Paul Bocuse in his honour.
Don’t miss the twin temptations of top quality
food stalls and informal eateries such as Les
Bouchons Lyonnais where locals love to shop
and eat.
Heritage fans have always loved this
UNESCO-listed city for the fabulous
Renaissance architecture of Vieux Lyon,
the wealth of first-class museums, and the
twin Roman theatres overlooking its two
rivers, the Rhône and Saône. But now there
are even more delicious reasons to visit this
atmospheric city.
Lyon lies at the heart of the Vallée de la
Gastronomie, a major tourism initiative that
promotes the huge range of regional wines,
produce and cuisine found between Dijon and
Dole in the north, and Marseille and Cassis on
Gillian works under Sebastien's watchful eye
Paul Bocuse mural outside Les Halles Paul Bocuse
42 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 43

the Mediterranean coast. Think picnics in the
vineyards or a visit to a truffle market; eating
at chef’s table or tasting with a wine producer.
The range of foodie activities on offer is
growing all the time and bookable via local
tourism websites.
morning, I strolled the picturesque streets of
Oingt in the ‘golden stones’ area of southern
Beaujolais. For panoramic views of the
vineyards and village, classified amongst the
Plus Beaux Villages de France, climb to the
flat roof of the bell tower before sitting down
to authentic local fare at La Table du Donjon.
The flavours of Beaujolais
I took a short break to combine the foodie
delights of Lyon with the liquid pleasures of
the Beaujolais, starting my adventure in the
vineyards of Château de Juliénas, around
an hour’s drive north of Lyon. Here Thierry
Condomine is the fifth generation of his
family to grow vines on these gentle slopes
and transform them into AOC Juliénas
within the 18th century stone buildings of his
atmospheric winery.
With so many different rocks influencing the
terroir and taste of the wines here, Beaujolais
is proud to be the first wine region awarded
Global Geopark status by UNESCO. Book a
two-hour tour on Thierry’s Wine Tasting Truck
and you get the unique experience of riding
in a 1964 VW Combi and tasting wines in
the exact spot where the grapes were grown,
accompanied by cheese and charcuterie.
Many a local dish is enhanced not just by
a glass of appropriate wine, but also by
the produce of the Huilerie Beaujolaise in
Beaujeu, medieval capital of the Beaujolais.
Sample their twelve virgin fruit oils and nine
fruit vinegars before making your choice from
their well-stocked shop.
Wine Tasting Truck in the Julienas vineyards
The golden stones of Oingt
Living it up in Lyon
Lunch over, I set off for Lyon, checking in at
the Hotel de Verdun, a surprisingly tranquil
small hotel between Perrache Station and
the vast square of Place Bellecour, home
to the Institut Paul Bocuse, location for the
evening cookery lesson. But first there was
time to explore the grand 19th century basilica
of Notre Dame de Fourvière, the adjacent
Roman theatres, and the narrow streets of
Vieux Lyon.
By the time I donned my navy monogrammed
apron at the Ecole de Cuisine Gourmets, I
had worked up an appetite. On our menu
was Braised Endives with sour carrot juice,
pomelos and hazelnut crumble, followed by
Veal Scallop with porcini mushrooms, spelt
risotto and siphon comté – a delicate foam
flavoured with comté cheese and applied
through a siphon. Who knew?
Happy to watch Sébastien tackle the tricky
bits, we merrily diced and decorated as
instructed before sitting down to share
the fruits of our labours, plus a delicious
dessert that our English-speaking Chef had
thoughtfully prepared earlier.
Some flavours are unmistakeable; others are
not as easy to discern as you might think. Test
your palate on the Sensory Wine Trail, a fun
activity at Chateau de Pizay, a 4-star hotel
and spa in the middle of its own vineyards at
Belleville-en-Beaujolais.
After all this hard work, I relaxed over local
food and wine at Hotel Villa Alexandre, a
delightful 18th century country house turned
boutique hotel at Régnie-Durette near
Beujeu. And after a blissful night’s sleep, next
Next day, I tackled a very different kind of
creative gastronomic experience, the chance
to blend my own bottle of wine at Chai Saint
Olive in the city centre, one of a growing
number of urban wineries around France.
Here I blended different proportions of local
grape varieties until I eventually arrived at
something pleasing to my palate, a bottle
I proudly labelled Clos de Gillian for a very
personal souvenir.
No food tour of Lyon would be complete
44 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 45

without sampling the traditional fare of a
Lyonnais bouchon. Food can be hearty but I
enjoyed a light lunch of delicate fish quenelles
at Daniel & Denise Saint-Jean, awarded
Bib Gourmand status by Michelin. Foodies
should also explore the restaurants and bars
of the Hôtel-Dieu, a 17th century hospital
overlooking the Rhône, now repurposed as a
dining and entertainment complex. This elegant
building is also home to the newly revamped
Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie, an
interactive food discovery centre.
So, back home have I made the smooth carrot
sauce delicately flavoured with ginger? Or
the mushroom sabayon that added a definite
je-ne-sais-quoi to the spelt risotto? Well let’s
just say not yet. But I have perfected a neat
technique for slicing onions without crying,
and when I don that Paul Bocuse apron,
even my cheese on toast seems worthy of a
Michelin star!
Fact File
Lyon and the Beaujolais both lie within the
Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region
auvergnerhonealpes-tourisme.com.
Further inspiration from
valleedelagastronomie.com .
Beaujolais
Tourism: destination-beaujolais.com
Foodie activities: chateaudejulienas.com;
huilerie-beaujolaise.fr;
chateau-pizay.com
Eating out: latabledudonjon.fr
Sleeping over: hotelvilla-alexandre.fr
There’s a real buzz to Lyon by night, especially
on board the Wagon Bar, a bus turned mobile
restaurant where guests relax on the upper
deck over a 5-course gastronomic dinner as
they are driven over illuminated bridges and
past floodlit monuments, through buzzing
squares and past lavishly painted walls. A
fitting finale to any city break.
Fourviere basilica, Lyon
Lyon
Tourism: lyon-france.com
Foodie activities:
ecoledecuisine.institutpaulbocuse.com;
chaisaintolive.com;
lewagonbar.com
Eating out:
danieletdenise.fr;
garconsboucherslyon.com
Sleeping over: hoteldeverdun1882.com
46 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 47

© L Pascale, La Drome Tourisme
A PALACE
built from pebbles
by a postman
The Palais Ideale is one of the most extraordinary
buildings in France says Janine Marsh
Passing through a modern ticket office
building on an unassuming street in a tiny town
in a rather hidden part of southern France, I
came face to face with a dream.
Hauterives in the Drôme department,
Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes, is hardly known
outside of France. There are around 2000
inhabitants, served by a friendly bar and a
couple of restaurants, a cosy bakery, a few
shops, B&Bs and a camp site. It’s a typically
French country town – tranquil, sleepy even
for the most part. But Hauterives has an
extraordinary secret. Drive through the town
and you may miss it. Swerve to a side street
near the boulangerie, a stone’s throw from
the charming Le Relais hotel (which had
you passed you would be wondering why a
little town like this needed one) and you will
discover something quite extraordinary.
48 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 49

ecame an obsession. He took to wheeling a
wooden barrow on his rounds so that he could
collect larger stones and more of them.
At the age of 43, he started his project.
A palace, built by hand from pebbles collected
by a postman as he performed his delivery
rounds.
A man with a mission
Ferdinand Cheval was a man with a mission
though it didn’t come to him until quite late
in life.
Born in 1836 in Drôme, unlike many of his
contemporaries in this poor area of France, he
went to school and learned to read and write.
In 1830 the postal collection and delivery
system began in France and Cheval became
a postman. He had a long round which he
covered on foot – between 32-40km each day
(20-25 miles). As he walked, he daydreamed.
He had never travelled the world, but he
“saw” it through illustrated magazines that
were popular in those days. In the early 1870s
postcards became popular and Cheval would
deliver them, looking at the extraordinary
views from around the world – the pyramids of
Egypt, the Swiss Alps, Mosques and temples –
images of far-flung lands he could never hope
to see for himself, and they simply fuelled his
dream even more.
One day in 1879, Cheval tripped on a stone
while walking on his rounds. He popped it in
his pocket and took it home. He later said that
the thought occurred to him then “if nature
is the sculptor, I will be the architect.” The
pebble kickstarted a dream – he decided to
build his own palace, a fairy tale palace.
Soon he began filling his pockets with pebbles
as he walked his long rounds delivering post. It
Cheval's woodenbarrow in which he collected stones
He had no building experience. He had never
studied architecture. But for the next 33 years
he toiled and learned as he went. Mixing
limestone to bind the stones, sometimes
using pieces of iron to give strength to the
structure. His nephew who lived in Marseille
sent seashells that he collected – great bags
of shells posted to the postman. Cheval
worked them into his designs. He made many
drawings and though most have been lost,
some do remain and are shown in the museum
next to the palace.
He worked at night by candlelight after he’d
finished a day’s work.
And he built a palace.
33 years, 10,000 days, 93,000 hours – one
man. “I wanted to prove what the will can do”
he later said.
A palace like no other
It is an astounding example of naïve art
architecture. It features giants and animals,
fountains and strange figures, some parts look
almost Gothic cathedral, some parts resemble
Aztec temples. It is a mishmash of styles but
wholly unique. I climbed the different levels,
followed dark passages inside where every inch
is covered with sculptures, art and messages.
I walked around it several times, each time
noticing something I hadn’t seen before.
The local people thought him crazy, but nothing
deterred him. News of the postman’s palace
of pebbles spread and in 1905 he opened it to
the public. A few newspapers wrote about him
and his “ideale palais”. By 1907 visitors from
the USA were making the journey to Hauterives
to see for their own eyes what one man could
achieve with his bare hands and several tons of
pebbles. I wondered how a man with such an
obsession fared in his personal life. “He married
twice” said our guide, “widowed in 1873, his
© L Pascale, La Drome Tourisme
50 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 51

Cheval tomb
second wife was wealthy and helped to fund his
project. Both his wives were fully supportive of
his ambitions.”
Artists and celebrities visited and were
amazed by the sight of the emerging
architecture – naïve for sure, but astonishing
and unique. Picasso created 13 drawings as
a tribute and Salvador Dali was inspired to
create a pavilion in homage.
He became famous in his lifetime. Now he –
always looking proud – and his Ideal Palace
featured on the postcards he so loved. When
someone took photos of his creation to sell as
postcards without his permission, he took out
a court case and created the first copyright in
France.
Cheval became famous in his lifetime. Now he
– always looking proud - and his Ideal Palace
featured on the postcards he so loved. When
someone took photos of his creation to sell as
postcards without his permission, he took out
a court case and created the first copyright in
France.
26 metres long (85 feet) by 12 metres wide (40
feet), it was the culmination of a wild dream, an
obsession and a lifetime’s work by night.
The Palais Ideale of Postman Cheval is one of
the wonders of France.
With the job completed in 1912, Cheval, now
aged 76, started building his own tomb in the
local churchyard. He finished it aged 83, and
died the year after in 1924. Built in the same
style as his palace, and towering over the
cemetery, it is a fitting resting place for this
most remarkable artist.
© L Pascale, La Drome Tourisme
How to get there.
By car is easiest but if you go by public
transport, the nearest train stations are
in Romans-sur-Isère or Saint Vallier-sur-
Rhône. From both stations taxi services
are available as well as buses which take
around 30 minutes. Find more details of
how to visit, opening times etc:
www.facteurcheval.com
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52 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 53

Spotlight
on
southern
France
A land of
charm and
enchantment
Words by Janine Marsh;
Photos by Marianne Furnes
The south of France has long attracted artists
and visitors who fall in love with the incredible
light, the charm of the locals and their singing
accents, the culture and history of this
picturesque part of southern France, fields of
fragrant lavender and glorious countryside,
authentic and rustic seaside villages…
Villefranche-sur-Mer
‘When I see Villefranche, I see my youth
again. Pray Heaven it may never change’…
French poet Jean Cocteau on Villefranchesur-Mer
The 700-year-old traditional fishing village
is home to around 5000 inhabitants but
welcomes about a million tourists every
year (thanks to the large cruise ships which
drop anchor just at the entrance of the bay).
Nevertheless, the village has managed to
retain its authentic and charming nature,
winding medieval streets and ochre, pink
and yellow houses topped with orange tiled
roofs. From the hills, those who climb have a
splendid view of Cap-Ferrat, and from some
spots even the Cap de Nice.
Just as Picasso, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard
Burton and Henry Ford discovered, it is the
perfect place to have a drink at the end of a
beautiful day, while you soak up the view of
the stunning sunsets.
Nice
Words don’t do justice to the charms of Nice.
You have to see the palm trees gently swaying
from the light sea breeze under the azure sky
and taste the salt in the air. Walk down the
chequered paths of Place Masséna and along
the narrow wiggly streets of the old town, lined
with bright terracotta-coloured building.
Wander the Promenade des Anglais that
winds around the Bay of Angels, lapped by the
unbelievably turquoise sea, glittering from the
rays of the warm sun. Listen to the clanking
anchors of yachts in the harbour and explore
54 | The Good Life France Villefranche-sur-Mer
The Good Life France | 55

Nice
the Cours Saleya with its daily market and
stands selling local Socca and Pissaladière
and smell the olive oil, sea salt and smoke waft
around you. Nice is a city that assails your
senses and fills you with the joy of life.
Uzès
In Uzès, rich Mediterranean skies slowly bake
a rocky green landscape and olive trees
grasp the leafy fingers of the mulberry trees
to provide welcome shade in a medieval town
square. It’s a place where pale limestone
houses gently glow and where history and
ancient architecture walk hand in hand
under the watchful eye of three feudal towers
and the ancestral home and chateau of
the town’s Duke. Be lured into its narrow,
medieval streets, rest beneath its heavy
canopy of thick leaved plane trees and cool
stone arches, and be seduced by its charm
that leaves you breathless.
Antibes
Antibes is one of those places that you
stumble upon and realise that you’ve found a
sun-drenched French corner of paradise. Of
course, others have found this too, Picasso,
Scott Fitzgerald and Hemingway all fell in
love with its charms. They would probably
recognise its famous sites today, almost a
hundred years after they partied here in
Nice
the roaring twenties. Take a dip in the sea.
Wander the old district where the scent of
orange blossom, lavender and jasmine fills the
air. Narrow winding roads with ornamental
cobbles that lead you past tall old houses
dripping with bright pink bougainvillea. It is a
true treasure of the French Riviera.
Read more about Antibes
Aix-en-Provence
“When the Good Lord begins to doubt
the world, he remembers that he created
Provence” – Frederic Mistral
Aix will have you believing that dreams are
real – it really is that lovely. The hometown of
Paul Cézanne has some of the most glorious
architecture of southern France, wander
the Cours Mirabeau, shop at the market for
homemade jam, exotic spices, sunflowers,
organic honeys, juicy fruits, soothing
lavender and local arts & crafts – all of this
whilst gaping at the pastel-coloured buildings.
Aix will steal your heart.
Read more about Aix-en-Provence
Antibes
Saint-Remy-de-Provence
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, or as the locals say,
Saint-Rémy, is located at the base of very
long and jagged limestone deposits. With a bit
of imagination, they look like dragon teeth!
The town is laid out in a circle with plane tree
shaded squares with tinkling fountains and
cobbled streets lined with ancient buildings.
Just above the town centre is the perfect
viewpoint for lovers of Van Gogh’s paintings.
Many of his most well-known artworks were
created during the time he spent in the asylum
at Saint-Rémy. Have you ever noticed the
steeple in Starry Night? Remember his series
of olive trees and the jagged mountains in
the background? The sensory world of Van
Gogh surrounds you in this magical spot above
Saint-Rémy.
Sault, Vaucluse
There are few more breath-taking sights
than fields of lavender in bloom and from the
village of Sault, perched atop a rocky outcrop,
the views are marvellous. Situated between
Uzes
56 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 57

Menton
Sault
Menton
the mountains of Lure, Luberon and Mont
Ventoux – the area is famous for its picturepostcard-pretty
lavender fields, forests and
plains where goats and sheep wander. Visit
on a Wednesday morning for the vibrant
market and wander the pretty medieval
streets for an eyeful of charm.
Sault
Menton
Menton is said to be the warmest town on
the French Riviera with around 316 days of
sunshine a year! During the time of the Belle
Epoque, royals from around Europe flocked
to the town and luxury hotels and villas
were built in the magical setting. Stroll the
steep narrow streets which cascade down
to the sea. Sit in shaded squares and watch
the world go by, beguiled by this corner of
captivating charm.
58 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 59

Let Them EAT CAKE:
Celebrating
St Honoré
Ally Mitchell investigates the legend of
Saint Honoré and his importance to the
bakers of France…
As a Brit, my appreciation of saint days
extends to our patron saints of which there are
four, one for each country within the United
Kingdom. Beyond them and St Valentine,
however, there are few saints recorded on
my calendar. France, on the other hand, has
filled in the blanks – here, they have helpfully
pointed out there is a saint allocated to
every day of the year. Many slide right past
on the conveyer belt of days, yet some are
celebrated including St Catherine, the saint
of unmarried women, in November, and St
Honoré, the saint of bakers, in May, both
worthy of a good celebration (maybe they
should be combined? What a good kneesup
that would be). St Honoré even had a
spectacular cake made in his honour, one
which is now sold in boulangeries around
France. Pretty good going for a young
unassuming bishop from Amiens. So, to
celebrate St Honoré on the 16th May, here’s
his tale and how he became the saint of
boulangers, pâtissiers and meuniers, three
professions you might not expect would
require a patron.
Honoré was born in Port-le-Grand, Picardy,
in the sixth century to a noble family, yet
not a lot has been recorded about his life
until he was offered the role of the eighth
bishop of Amiens. Even though he resisted
the offer, believing himself to be unworthy,
according to legend, at that exact moment,
a ray a divine light shone down on him. His
beloved nursemaid didn’t believe he could
have been honoured with such a position. She
swore she would accept it only if her bread
peel grew roots and transformed into a tree.
Incidentally, she was baking bread at the
time, and placing the end of the peel on the
floor, it suddenly morphed into a mulberry
tree. Ten centuries later, the tree was still
standing and deemed miraculous.
This wasn’t the only miracle allegedly conjured
by Honoré, nor his only connection to bread
60 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 61

and baking. Natural disasters were somehow
avoided, saving the crops and consequently
the work of millers and bakers, and St Honoré
was credited with these miracles. After his
death in around 600AD, drought loomed and
his relics were appealed to, and even carried
in a procession around the city walls. Before
long, the rain swiftly came.
His post-humous reputation continued to grow
and in 1202, a baker wished to build a chapel
in his honour and donated some local land to
the city of Paris. This chapel was extended in
1579 and bequeathed its name to Rue Saint-
Honoré which extends to Rue Faubourg Saint-
Honoré from the 1st to the 8th arrondissement.
Streets aren’t the only locations bestowed with
his eponym as there is also the Saint-Honoré
market and the now missing Saint-Honoré
gate on the west of the city. The Saint-Honoré
chapel has since been replaced by the
departments of The Ministry of Culture.
In Paris in 1400, the guild of bakers was
established in the church of St Honoratus
and dedicated the day of his feast to the 16th
May. Even royalty jumped on board – in 1659,
Louis XIV decreed that the feast of St Honoré
must be observed by every baker annually and
donations must be given in his name. Both
financial and edible donations were accepted.
You may be wondering why bakers, pastry
makers and millers all needed a patron saint.
These professions have always been gruelling,
but none more so than during the medieval
times when the workers suffered from various
breathing and skin aliments due to the flour
particles filling their lungs and pores. They also
had bad reputations for selling under-weight
bread or using bad grain. For these practices,
they were punished with a contraption called
the ‘baker’s gallows’ where they’d be forced
into a basket, hoisted up to 40 feet in the air,
then dropped in mud.
And what about this cake? Even by the 19th
century, bakers and pastry chefs were still
honouring St Honoré and now they put their
professional skills into action by baking him
a showstopper of confectionary. In 1847, the
Chiboust boulangerie on – where else? – the
Rue Saint-Honoré, created a ring-shaped
brioche filled with a finicky filling of crème
patisserie lightened with Italian meringue.
This cream, which became known as crème
Chiboust and even has its own Facebook
page, is applied with a special St Honoré
nozzle to form the pastry’s iconic petals of
cream. Eventually, the brioche was replaced
with puff pastry and topped with a circle of
cream choux buns dipped in caramel. It’s no
wonder that this is the patisserie of choice
for St Honoré; all its elements demonstrate
essential baking and pâtissier skills.
Celebrate St Honoré on the 16th May at Les
Fetes du Pain where there will be competitions
(including the Best French Traditional
Baguette), demonstrations and tastings taking
place in front of Notre-Dame in Paris, or by
picking up a St Honoré cake from your local
boulangerie (or make one at home if you
have several hours to spare). Visit Amiens
Cathedral, a UNESCO heritage site, which
dates back to the 13th century - St Honoré is
tributed with the eponymous south portal.
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62 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 63

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France has a long and rich history with a
past that is full of legends and tales, some
so old and lost in the mists of time that it’s
often impossible to confirm fact from fiction.
One of the most enduring tales of southern
France involves the story of Mary Magdalene,
a disciple of Jesus who it is said took refuge
in France after his death. A new tour seeks
to discover more about the saint whilst
also discovering the most beautiful parts of
southern France…
Long, long ago stories began to circulate in
France and beyond that following the death
of Jesus, his disciples dispersed, and some
said that France became a haven for some
of them. The details have been lost in time,
but generally the legend is that three women
named Mary, or sometimes two women
named Mary, along with Martha, Lazarus and
a servant named Sarah had been set adrift
in an open boat from Palestine after Christ’s
death. They arrived in the south of France and
landed either at Marseille or Saintes-Mariesde-la-Mer.
The Marys were said to be Mary
Magdalene, Mary Salome and Mary Jacobi.
The Divine Destination Collection
tours aim to create life-changing travel
adventures, combined with wellness, luxury
accommodation, great food and wine,
plus uncover the magic and spirituality of
a destination. They run tours all over the
world and in June 2023 they will head to the
south of France to follow the path of Mary
Magdalene’s journey. She became a muchrevered
saint in France with many churches
dedicated to her. The unique trip isn’t about
64 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 65

Vineyard near Carcassonne © J-Laurens
views, it’s a goosebump, memorable moment
as you learn about the mysteries and history of
this ancient place.
Carcassonne is surrounded by beautiful
villages and tiny hamlets like Rennes-le-
Chateau and Alet-les-Bains, Rennes-les-
Baines and Cathar Castles. So many of the
local sites are off the beaten track, authentic
and missed by most visitors. You’ll visit
private gardens, enjoy a live piano recital at
a castle and get to learn more about Mary
Magdalene and her journey in the area.
Carcassonne
Mary Magdalene as a religious figure but as
an archetype of the divine feminine. And as
you explore her story, you’ll also be immersed
in the beauty of France.
Carcassonne
The journey starts in UNESCO-listed
Carcassonne where you’ll stay at the famed
Hotel de la Cité. The ground floor of the
hotel is a listed historic monument and if you
leaf through the guest book you’ll find the
signatures of Winston Churchill, Princess Grace
of Monaco and Colette, the great French
writer. The hotel is seriously special and very
luxurious. As you sip the local sparkling wine on
the terrace of the hotel and watch the sun set
over the citadel while soaking up the stunning
66 | The Good Life France Carcassonne
The Good Life France | 67

Aix-en-Provence
Aix, as the locals call it, is one of those places
that steals your heart. It is an elegantly
cultured city, mellow and laid back, sunkissed
and sensuous. One of its most beautiful
hotels is the 18th century mansion, 5* Le
Pigonnet which has gorgeous gardens with
20 fountains, a grand pool, and glorious
rooms – fit for nobility, and your second
home on this tour. It’s a stone’s throw from
the famous and picturesque Cours Mirabeau
main thoroughfare which splits the city
into two halves, the Renaissance side and
the Medieval side, the Champs-Elysées of
southern France, lined with glorious mansions,
café terraces, galleries and boutiques. On
Saturdays a lively market spreads along its
cobbles tempting you to fill your case with
souvenirs. This is the former home of artist
Cézanne and traces of him are everywhere, in
the museums, and at his former atelier a short
walk from the city centre. Smocks, hats and
still-life props, recognisable from his paintings,
clutter the place where Cézanne captured his
obsession with Mont Sainte-Victoire
mountain on canvas, and completed his last
Grandes Baigneuses.
From Aix it’s a short journey to Saint-Maximinla-Sainte-Baume
and the Basilica of Saint
Mary Magdalene. It’s said that she was buried
here in the 1st century though the earliest
part of the church, the crypt, dates to the 4th
century and is famous for being said to hold
the skull of Mary. A grotto nearby is where the
saint is said to have meditated. Surrounded by
glorious countryside, castles, monasteries and
vineyards, this is a very special, not well-known
part of southern France.
Along the route you’ll have the chance to
meet “Mary experts”, trace the path of Mary
Magdalene or simply relax and enjoy this
luxurious adventure.
From the ancient marble-paved streets
of the Bastide of Saint-Louis, the lower
town of Carcassonne, and the upper towns
cobbled streets, to the winding lanes of
Aix, the countryside of southern France,
Cezanne
Carcassonne
its monuments, castles and churches, and
its spiritual places, this is a unique tour that
reveals a little-known and extraordinary side
to France. This small group tour (limited to
22 maximum) will be hosted by Deb Niven
and Allison Frame who have decades of travel
industry experience between them. You’ll
enjoy fine dining, private unique venues, visits
to wineries and the finest hotels.
Find out more about this unique and seriously
special tour (suitable for couples, friends, solo)
at: divinedestinationcollection.com
The Sacred South of France
June 5-12, 2023
DISCOVER THE LORE OF MARY MAGDALENE’S JOURNEY
AND IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE BEAUTY, ELEGANCE AND
GASTRONOMY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE
Magical, immersive and uncommon moments...
where luxury, adventure and spirituality meet
www.divinedestinationcollection.com
68 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 69

Tracking the
PLANTAGENETS
Page 78
Le Mans
cathedral
Alone with the
Plantagenets
Cite Plantagenet,
Le Mans
Gillian Thornton follows the English kings
through Anjou and Normandy
Royal dynasties are often complicated, but
none more so than the early Plantagenet kings
who dominated France and England in the
12th and 13th centuries. Arranged marriages
here. Betrayals and treachery there. This was
the soap opera that just kept on giving.
It all began in Le Mans with Geoffrey, Count
of Anjou and Maine, who tucked a sprig of
broom, or genet, in his hat after hunting,
thus earning himself the name of Geoffrey
Plantagenet. In 1128, he married Matilda -
granddaughter of William the Conqueror,
Duke of Normandy and King of England – who
gave Geoffrey the Duchy of Normandy as her
dowry. But it was his son Henry and grandsons
Richard and John who really put the family on
the political map.
I love discovering the shared history of
England and France but especially since my
husband discovered a distant Plantagenet
connection in his family tree. You don’t need
any royal relatives, however, to enjoy visiting
heritage sites associated with this colourful
cast of characters.
The Angevin heartland
Best place to start any Plantagenet tour is in
the historic province of Anjou, today part of
Pays de la Loire. Geoffrey was born in
Le Mans in 1113, baptised in its soaring Gothic
cathedral, and married to Matilda in the
Palace of the Counts of Maine, now the city’s
Town Hall.
The cathedral itself is a stunner, standing
at the heart of the historic quarter or Cité
Plantagenet. Wander the cobbled streets
today past colourful half-timbered facades
and it’s easy to imagine life in the Plantagenet
era; harder though to grasp that the
substantial Roman ramparts were already
800 years old when Geoffrey lived here and
are largely still standing.
lemans-tourisme.com
70 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 71

Abbaye de l'Epau
Despite fighting for his wife’s right to the
English throne, Geoffrey never gained a
crown for himself. But his first son Henry, born
in 1133, would become Henry II of England
and add vast lands to the family portfolio by
marrying Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152, former
Queen of France from her dissolved marriage
to Louis VI.
You can spend hours in Le Mans but do take in
the Royal Abbey of Epau just outside the city,
https://frenchcountryadventures.com/
to discover the story of Bérengère de Navarre
who married Henry II’s son Richard, known as
the Lionheart or Coeur de Lion, in 1191. Largely
forgotten after Richard’s death in 1199, the
widowed Queen of England returned to the
family palace in Le Mans before founding
Epau Abbey in 1229 as her last resting place.
Today, Epau is both a heritage site and
a cultural centre for the department of
Sarthe with an extensive permaculture
vegetable garden that supplies the abbey
café. Berengère died in 1230 but lives on
here through a recumbent stone effigy. The
whereabouts of her bones however is still
under investigation; read the fascinating
archaeological story on panels beside her
likeness. sarthetourism.com
Whilst Richard’s widow rests in royal solitude
at Epau, her parents in law are elsewhere.
Henry II and his feisty wife Eleanor fell out
big time when she sided with sons Richard
and John against him over division of the
Plantagenet lands. Henry had her imprisoned
Chinon castle
for 16 years and after his death, Eleanor
retired to the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud
close to Saumur in the Loire Valley. Here she
commissioned painted stone effigies not just
of herself, but also Henry and her favourite
son Richard who both predeceased her.
She certainly had the last laugh, ordering that
her own likeness stand higher than the others
and be depicted with a book as a blatant
symbol of her superior intellect. The figures
were moved in times of religious unrest but
today stand in splendid isolation beneath
the lofty roof timbers of the main abbey
church. Completing the quartet is Isabelle
of Angoulême, wife of Eleanor’s younger son
John. As King John – of Magna Carta fame
– he chose Worcester Cathedral in England
for his last resting place, but his son Henry III
brought Isabelle to the Plantagenet necropolis
in 1254.
Fontevraud’s extensive walled complex was
converted to a prison under Napoleon, but
has been sympathetically transformed into
the Regional Arts and Culture Centre for Pays
de la Loire. Wander the historic buildings,
visit the Museum of Modern Art, and enjoy
eclectic outdoor art installations. Best of all,
stay overnight at Fontevraud l’Hôtel and you
can explore freely after dark and enjoy the
Chinon
spotlit Plantagenets and illuminated buildings
in solitude. An unforgettable experience.
Advance bookings are strongly recommended
for the Michelin-starred restaurant in the hotel
cloister. fontevraud.fr
From Touraine to
Normandy
Henry II of England spent much of his time on
the road across his vast Plantagenet Empire
which stretched from the Scottish Borders
down the length of western France to the
Pyrenees and across the Auvergne. In 1189
Henry died from an infection at the Château
de Chinon which today is part of the Loire
Valley’s Touraine region and whilst much of
this strategic hilltop fortress is in ruins, the
exhibition in the former Plantagenet Hall
includes a handy silent film that neatly wraps
up the family squabbles. forteressechinon.fr
From Chinon, I headed north into Normandy,
a region also rich in Plantagenet sites.
Richard the Lionheart spent much of his reign
fighting the crusades in the Middle East,
but the border with France was a constant
worry too. Ruins don’t come much more
atmospheric than the Château-Gaillard at
72 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 73

The Seine from Chateau Gaillard
Les Andeleys, commissioned by Richard on
a rocky promontory high above the Seine
east of Rouen. Wear flat, non-slip shoes to
climb the uneven path to the inner courtyard
for sweeping views over river cliffs and plain.
nouvelle-normandie-tourisme.com
Richard’s death in 1199 was something of an
anti-climax for such a seasoned fighter, the
result of an infected arrow wound in southwest
France. But whilst his body was buried at
Fontrevraud, his heart lies in Rouen Cathedral,
a common practice in the Middle Ages to
spread the opportunities for local income from
pilgrims. An effigy of the warrior king lies in
the spectacular Gothic cathedral, famously
painted by Claude Monet more than 30 times.
visiterouen.com
Less obvious but equally interesting for a
Plantagenet hunter is Avranches, close to the
Normandy coast. Excommunicated by the
Pope for instigating the murder of Thomas
Becket in Canterbury Cathedral, Henry II
met here in 1172 with delegates of the Pope
to seek absolution. The crumbling cathedral
was demolished in 1794, but the site of the
meeting is now a hilltop green space with
distant views of Mont St Michel, the place of
penance marked by a stone pillar and plaque.
Just ask any local for directions to Place
Becket. normandie-tourisme.fr
King John died in 1216, but the Plantagenet
Rouen Cathedral through 'Monet's window'
Chateau Gaillard
dynasty was to carry on for another 300
years until Richard III died on Bosworth Field
in 1485, overthrown by the next dysfunctional
dynasty, the Tudors. But none of the
Plantagenets who followed John would have
the same influence across two countries as
those first three kings.
Henry II had built up the empire; Richard
fought hard to maintain it; and John –
nicknamed Lackland or Jean sans Terre –
managed to lose most of the French lands
to Philip II of France. But their ambition
and animosity have ensured that 900 years
later, we are still fascinated by those early
Plantagenet monarchs and the sites they left
behind - quite some legacy!
Exceptional arts and
crafts made in Provence
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laugusteprovence.com
74 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 75

Adventure Sailing in
Brittany for Teens
QBE adventure sailing holidays for teenagers along the Breton coast aren’t ordinary
– they are life-changing experiences…
Jessica Anderson and her husband are both healthcare professionals who live in Montana
(USA), near Yellowstone National Park. Nichola Waygood is an artist in Edinburgh. And
Francesco Stella is a successful businessman in Milan. Different countries, different vocations,
different circumstances. But they all share one thing in common: in 2022 they all elected to
send their teenage son or daughter sailing with Will Sutherland in Brittany, one of France’s
premiere sailing areas and a world away from home.
The Captain and his crew
QBE director Will Sutherland is an experienced
sailor and inspiring mentor who has taught
outdoor and life skills his entire professional
life. QBE, the company he founded more
than 30 years ago, stands for “Qualified By
Experience,” and that is the philosophy at the
heart of his singular maritime expeditions.
These are no ordinary holidays – they are
extraordinary adventures on the waves, where
friendships are formed and lives are changed
as sailors are made, with or without any
previous yachting experience.
It’s an opportunity for teenagers to expand
their horizons while interacting with a team of
peers to undertake challenging tasks in a safe
but unfamiliar environment. And it all takes
place on two gaff-rig sailing vessels that are
based in the historic port of Saint-Malo.
Crews live aboard for two to three weeks and
sail the boats for up to 1,000 nautical miles,
visiting the Channel Islands and journeying
around the Breton peninsula. Learning to sail
is the main aim, but it’s much more than just a
sailing course. All the teamwork skills learned
by living and working together – leadership,
decision-making, personal communication,
confrontation management, planning and
managing – are transferable ashore.
“The transformations in self-confidence and
self-knowledge are often remarkable. Quite
often it can be a bit of a culture shock being
in France, on a traditionally rigged boat and
in charge of their own destinies,” says Will.
“But at the same time, the kids are having a
lot of fun on a memorable holiday. They make
friends for life over a few weeks, and they
go home knowing that they have achieved
something to be proud of.”
Sailing since he was six years old, British-born
Will taught yachting in Antibes, spent seven
years coaching a high school J24 racing
team at Cowes Week and taught at the Royal
Yachting Association Sea Schools in the UK.
He was also a teacher and expeditions master
at Aiglon College, in Switzerland, famous
76 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 77

for its ambitious expeditionary-learning
programme. That extensive experience makes
him uniquely qualified to lead QBE’s sailing
holidays. He and his professional team teach
the student crews to do everything (instruction
is primarily in English, though the team also
speak French). They take most of the decisions
whilst ensuring safety at all times and giving
the teenagers every opportunity to tackle
the responsibilities entailed in sailing 46-foot
yachts. The sailing school has been going for
more than 30 years, and QBE’s team have
enjoyed tremendous success in teaching,
coaching and mentoring.
“Mixed crews work best for getting the most
out of the experience,” says Will. “Every
individual counts, everyone is a significant
participant. If the crews don’t manage to
work together, the boats do not sail well. And
because we have identical boats, there is
always a bit of competition and a desire to be
out in front.”
The boats
The yachts are head-turning replicas of
Alouette, a 19th-century French pilot cutter.
The crew must take on board that these
classic yachts require teamwork and effort
to sail, and from that comes a sense of
achievement. In fact, they’re the perfect boats
to teach teens the skill and art of sailing – big
enough to be very seaworthy but small enough
for novice sailors to learn the ropes quickly.
It’s fun
A QBE expedition is a fantastically fun
holiday: Crew members not only enjoy the
thrill of coastal sailing, but they also get to
observe millions of stars visible in clear night
skies and discover a surprising variety of
wildlife, including bottlenose dolphins, seals,
and a vast number of seabirds. The boats
routinely call at little-known ports that are
steeped in history and regional culture. There
are also visits to historic sites, museums, and
cultural events. And everyone enjoys sampling
the local taste sensations, including Brittany’s
favourite – crêpes.
This is an exceptional adventure where those
who sail these extraordinary boats create
memories that last a lifetime.
Jessica Anderson’s son was so taken with
his QBE experience that he’s coming back
again this season – in both July and August!
“It was more than an amazing adventure,” he
enthuses, “it was a life-changing experience.”
Find out more about QBE’s
holidays for teenagers in June, July,
and August, and also for adults (on
application), at elsleaders.com
78 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 79

SPOTLIGHT ON
L’Étang de Thau
Sete at sunset
Water jousting sete
The Archipel de Thau lagoon is a bit of a
secret place in southern France. Around
20km long, and separated from the
Mediterranean by a sandbank, the L’Étang
de Thau as it’s also called, is the largest salt
lake in the Occitanie region, and a breeding
ground for oysters and mussels. Bordering the
lake are pretty villages surrounded by lush
vineyards. From the commune of Agde to the
town of Sète, on the Mediterranean side there
are miles and miles of wide sandy beaches
known as Marseillan Plage.
Rising out of the sea, and the dominant
landmark of the lagoon, is the hill of Mont
Saint-Clair with, at its base, Sète, known as
the Venice of the region thanks to its canals
and busy port. This lively town has a plethora
of restaurants all around the port and almost
all serve freshly caught fish. Dishes reflect a
strong Italian influence due to the immigrant
workers who helped create the canals in the
17th century.
Sète is a cruise destination as well as
France’s leading port for blue fish, sardines,
anchovies and tuna. During the summer
months, the banks of the main canal are
filled with spectators watching water
jousting, a form of entertainment dating
back to the town’s inception in 1666.
Teams dressed in white, board long boats
and compete against each other to topple
their adversary’s jouster with a 2.8m
long wooden lance! In July, the open-air
theatre with its enchanting backdrop of the
Mediterranean, hosts a Jazz Festival that
attracts top name artists.
Natasha Blair explores the pretty villages strung around a lagoon
in the south of France
80 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 81

Abbey of Valmagne
The Good Life France podcast
Everything you want to know about
France and more...
thegoodlifefrance.com
Around the lagoon are little villages, each with its own charms.
Pretty villages
At Balaruc-les-Bains the Antique
Mediterranean Garden is well worth a visit,
laid out as it would have been in Roman times.
Discover the agriculture and horticulture
of the Mediterranean, and the diverse use
of flowers and plants in medicine, cooking,
and cosmetics. The village is known for its
therapeutic thermal waters.
At Bouzigues the secrets of the fishermen
of L’Etang as well as oyster cultivation are
explained at the Museum of Ethnographique.
And at the 12th century Abbey of Valmagne
you can take a wine tasting. Its architecture
is based on the great cathedrals of Northern
France. Original paintings are displayed on
the stone walls of the cloisters, and there are
regular exhibitions. Converted into a wine
storehouse after the French Revolution, and
thanks to its vineyards, it is known as the
wine cathedral.
Marseillan
Make your way to Marseillan and en route you
may spot pink flamingos in the shallow waters
of the lagoon. Marseillan Port is a preserved
heritage site with pretty cafés bordering the
inlet. The town is the home of Noilly Prat
vermouth, a favourite ingredient of James
Bond for his famous “shaken not stirred” Dry
Martini! Its history can be traced back to
1813, and a visit to the Noilly Prat museum will
reveal many secrets including the spices and
herbs in the ingredients list. Tours end with a
tasting – perfect.
82 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 83

'Real' South of France Tours
EXPERIENCE THE
AMAZING CULTURE,
HISTORY, FOOD
AND WINE IN
THE REAL SOUTH OF FRANCE
realsouthoffrancetours.fr
Marseillan
Étang de Thau with its delicious Tarboureich oysters © Cheryl Avery
Marseillan’s market takes place on Tuesday morning and its arrival turns the village from a quiet,
sleepy town into a vibrant place. In a row of shacks where the boats come to off-load their
catch from the Etang, you’ll find La Cabane Brasucade, a tiny family run eaterie facing onto
the lagoon. Here, they marinate the oysters and mussels which are grown just offshore - you
can’t miss the sight of row upon row of what look like huts on stilts in the lagoon. The freshly
harvested, marinated molluscs are cooked over an open fire. Served with the local wine, such as
Picpoul de Pinet, this is one of life’s finest pleasures!
There are numerous water sports including kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, sailing and
kitesurfing. Bicycle paths are everywhere, including the 18 miles of Marseillan Plage. Beaches
offer somewhere to relax, play and eat with numerous restaurants and bars.
There are also many walking paths in the area, some circumnavigating vineyards where you
can enjoy tastings. This is an area of small, independent wine growers and often, it’s a matter of
ringing a bell at the front door to access the tasting room.
This little part of paradise is authentic and irresistibly pretty, a well-kept secret to fall
in love with.
archipel-thau.com
84 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 85

Your Photos
Vaison-la-Romaine, lies at
the foot of the Denetelles
de Montmirail mountains in
Provence. An ancient town once
inhabited by the Romans, it was
called Vaison until 1924 when it
was renamed. The La Romaine
part of the name is in homage
to the number of Roman ruins
uncovered in the early 20th
century.
Photo: Vok Stan
Find out more: Vaison-la-Romaine
Every weekend we invite
you to share your photos on
Facebook and Twitter – it’s
a great way for everyone
to “see” real France and be
inspired by real travellers
snapping pics as they
go. Every week there are
utterly gorgeous photos
being shared, and here we
showcase just a few of the
most popular. Share your
favourite photos with us and
the most ‘liked’ will appear
in the next issue of The Good
Life France Magazine
Rue Mouffetard, Paris
Saint-Malo, Brittany
Photo: Nick Hall Fine Arts photographer
Find out more about: Saint-Malo
Join us on Facebook and
Twitter to like and share
your favourite photos of
France...
86 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 87

What’s
ON?Spring 2023
National Events
There’s plenty going
on throughout
Spring in France –
here’s our pick of
some of the best
and new events this
season…
Les Journées Européennes des Métiers d’Art
European Days of Crafts: 22 March – 7 April, a
chance for the public to meet artisans as 5000
events take place across France. Workshops,
exhibitions and demonstrations of skill plus
tours. institut-metiersdart.org/
Chartres en Lumières
April 2023 to January 2024, the city of
Chartres (Eure-et-Loire) puts on the most
amazing light show with its annual festival of
light. Take a guided visit, or simply wander
this ancient city on foot. Make sure you visit
the famous Cathedral while you’re there.
chartresenlumieres.com/fr/
Poisson d’Avril
1st April is le poisson d’avril in France, (April
Fish Day). You’ll see fish-shaped chocolates
and pastries in shops across France. It’s
traditional to stick paper cut-out fish onto
people’s backs and not let them know. The
idea is for them to walk around unaware all
day, entertaining onlookers. The origins of le
poisson d’avril are not clear but it’s believed to
go back to a tradition of giving fish as a gift to
celebrate the beginning of Easter and the
end of Lent.
European Museum Night – May 13
Museums and monuments all over France
will be open free of charge for most of the
evening and many offer workshops, guided
tours, musical performances and more. Not
to be missed!
nuitdesmusees.culture.gouv.fr/en/
Major Events
Mont-Saint-Michel Normandy celebrates its
1000th anniversary in 2023. Construction of
the Romanesque nave of the Mont-St-Michel
Abbey began in 1023. We’ll be bringing you
more on this UNESCO-listed wonder of the
world in the summer issue of the magazine.
The Palace of Versailles celebrates its 400th
Anniversary this year. Wishing to show all of
Europe the magnificence of his reign, in 1661
Louis XIV transformed his father’s modest
castle into one of the most beautiful buildings
in the world. He installed the Court there in
1682 and his successors lived there until the
French Revolution. It became a museum in
1837. There will be several exhibitions through
the year to celebrate this important milestone.
Le Mans celebrates its 100th anniversary of
the 24 Hours endurance race. The origins of
the 24 Hours of Le Mans go back to 1906,
when the Sarthe region won a public bid from
the Automobile Club de France (ACF) to
organize a Grand Prix. It was a huge success
and sparked off the idea to hold an annual
race. On May 26, 1923, 33 cars took to the
track for the first edition of the 24-hour Speed
and Endurance Grand Prix/Rudge-Withworth
Cup. Since then, it has attracted daredevil
racers from around the world including
Hollywood legends Steve McQueen and Paul
Newman.
Bayonne/Nouvelle Aquitaine:
The Bayonne Ham Fair –
April 6-9
Bayonne Ham Fair
is one of Bayonne’s
smaller festivals
and brings together
more than 200,000
people, mainly young
and old, around
the river Nive, the
Market and the
quays of Bayonne.
foireaujambon.fr/
88 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 89

Dordogne/Nouvelle Aquitaine – Dordogne’s
“Chateau en Fête” – 15 April – 1 May
Sumptuous castles, manors and manor houses
open their doors and present exhibitions,
shows, sound and light shows, concerts,
banquets, candlelit dinners and guided tours
by the owner. chateauxenfete.com
Across France – Rendez-Vous aux
Jardins garden festival – June 2-4
Each year, more than 2,200 parks and
gardens - both public and private open their
doors and offer activities and meetings
with owners and professionals (botanists,
gardeners, landscapers) plus guided tours,
sensory or naturalistic walks, demonstrations
of know-how, garden tours, musical walks,
games/competitions, theatrical events, etc.
Theme for 2023: “Music in the Garden”
rendezvousauxjardins.culture.gouv.fr/en
Rouen/Normandie – Armada of Tall Ships –
June 8-18
Fifty
magnificent
tall ships, the
world’s largest
gathering,
along with
military boats
and submarines
from all over
the world, manned by 7000 French and
foreign sailors, will line Rouen’s quaysides for
ten days of celebrations. The event finishes
with a superb parade along the River Seine,
towards the estuary between Honfleur and Le
Havre. The Rouen Armada is the only event of
its kind in France and is held every four years.
armada.org/
Across France – Fête de la Musique –
June 21
June 21, the day of the summer solstice
is Fête de la musique day, a major free
festival celebrating music in all its forms
in streets across France. Thousands of
concerts featuring bands, harmonies, choirs,
orchestras, “big band” or rock groups.
fetedelamusique.culture.gouv.fr
Vienne/Auvergne-Rhone-Alps – Jazz à
Viennes – 28 June 28 - 12July
Created 40 years ago, the Festival Jazz
à Vienne is held during the first two weeks
of July. Every year over 200,000 festivalgoers
flock to see more than 100 artists.
jazzavienne.com/en
Across France – Tour de France – July 1-23
The world’s largest bike race covers a
whopping 3,500km through the most
beautiful landscapes of France. This year
kicks off in Bilbao in the Basque Country and
finishes on the Champs-Elysées in Paris.
Azincourt1415.com
24 Rue Charles VI
62310 Azincourt
Step back in time
and discover the past at
Azincourt 1415 historic centre
90 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 91

INSPIRATION for your TRAVELS to France
in Spring and Summer 2023
If you’re planning a visit to France
– we’ve handpicked the best tours
and the best places to stay…
THE BEST TOURS
‘Real’ South of France Tours
Occitanie – formerly Languedoc-Roussillon and Midi-Pyrenees – is to many the real south of
France. It’s a land of hidden gems and historic giants like Carcassonne, and of lush vineyards
where some of the very best wines in France are produced. Take a 7-day small group guided
tour, or a bespoke tour that suits your wish list, and to discover the heart of this area and its
innermost, delicious and fascinating secrets. Discover real France with ‘Real’ South of
France Tours… realsouthoffrancetours.fr
Day trips and tour packages all over France, plus brilliant shore excursions
Ophorus Tours are a French family run business with a huge choice of tours from fun and
informative guided walking city tours to very carefully crafted multi regional packages, wine
tasting, cycling and themed tours all over France as well as day trips from Paris. Their aim
is to show you France as they believe it should be shown – authentic, colourful and friendly.
ophorus.com
92 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 93

Battlefield tours and historical travel
experiences
Tailor-made historical travel experiences
by a family-run specialist tour operator
creates exceptional WWI and WWII
battlefields tours across France, Belgium
and the Netherlands. Sophie will research
the history and background of soldiers so
that each battlefield tour is a personal
historical experience. Add on experiences
to suit you such as chateau visits in the
Loire, Champagne tastings in Champagne
or a classic car tour in Provence. Every
itinerary is created to be perfect – for you.
sophiesgreatwartours.com
Tours for those who love the authentic
Discover southern France - from captivating
Carcassonne to magical Montpellier, or the
best of Provence and the lavender fields,
Normandy, Bordeaux and Dordogne. On
these luxury, small group tours you’ll get to
be a temporary local and indulge in the best
gastronomy, discover the beauty and culture
of France... tripusafrance.com
CroisiEurope – the very best cruises
in France
CroisiEurope are the largest cruise operator
in France, and their tours are unbeatable.
Sail France’s rivers and canals and the
Mediterranean Sea. Discover the culture,
gastronomy and cultural wealth of France.
Enjoy all-inclusive life onboard with the
finest food and wines and fabulous tours that
take you to the heart of each destination.
No stressing, no driving, no wondering how
to fit in all the glorious must-see places or
how to reach the off the beaten track gems,
CroisiEurope’s cruises and excursions take
you to the very heart of France – in style.
If you’re in Paris, there are a fabulous range
of cruises (from 2 days to 7 days) which
depart from Paris (near the Eiffel Tower)
and take in the city sights, plus Seine River
beauties in Normandy including Honfleur,
Rouen and Giverny where you’ll visit Claude
Monet’s house and garden, plus there is
a fabulous French Impressionism cruise
taking in the artists’ favourite haunts, visiting
castles, authentic little villages, historic sites
and fabulous museums. Utterly irresistible…
croisieurope.co.uk
Immersive French courses in France
10-day French immersion stays in Burgundy
that will have you learning French in a
fabulous and fun way. Stay in a gorgeous
luxury chateau, experience the real French
way of life, culture and gastronomy. Cooking
lessons, wine tasting and guided tours by
experts alongside lessons tailored to your
level with friendly, qualified teachers make
this a truly outstanding experience.
lapont.com
Year round themed and bespoke small
group tours of Provence
Small group tours and customized travelling
to give you memories to last a lifetime.
Discover the best of Provence: Lavender tours
(there’s still room on the lavender and culture
tour), truffle, grape harvest, and bespoke
tours as well as chauffeur services for day
trips or a lot longer. Emily Durand’s Private
Provence tours are unique, exclusive and truly
fabulous. yourprivateprovence.com
Gascony, the Basque country, Provence
and southern France
Nourish your soul and unleash your spirit of
adventure on tours that feature the famous
food, wine and Armagnac of Gascony, and
discover where to find the best antique
shops and flea markets, the most beautiful
villages and magnificent chateaux. From
one day to week-long tours that are
customised for you. Plus tours of Provence,
southern France and the Basque country.
frenchcountryadventures.com
94 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 95

Culture & cookery tours in Provence
Cooking classes with chefs in their homes
where you’ll cook authentic French dishes.
Shop at the enchanting street markets with
chefs and dine at the most scrumptious
restaurants in beautiful towns of Provence on
this fully escorted delicious and cultural trip of
a lifetime. goutetvoyage.com
on two wheels… Loire Brakes guided tours
are relaxing (e-bikes provided), you’ll stay in
a fabulously renovated comfortable and cosy
farmhouse and visit the very best of the Loire
Valley with local guides Denise and Kevin. A
superb slow travel experience for those who
like to discover real France and enjoy the most
fabulous food and wines… loirebrakes.com
Tailor made tours and itineraries to suit you
Bespoke itineraries for visits all over France
including Normandy, Paris, the French
Riviera and Bordeaux. Your route is planned
based on what you want to see and do, with
recommendations (confirmed bookings if
you prefer) for your dream hotel, apartment,
villa as well as restaurants, guided tours and
attractions. All the hard work and uncertainty
of where to go and where to stay is removed.
You just have to relax and enjoy the trip of a
lifetime. RNItravel.com
Cognac No. 22
SUPERB STAYS
Cognac no. 22 – luxury farmhouse in
Charente-Maritime
In a charming village, surrounded by fields
of golden sunflowers, lush green vineyards
and truffle forests, Gite No. 22, a beautifully
restored 19th century traditional farmhouse
with a luxurious heated pool, is utterly
lovely. Ideally situated for the historic towns
of Cognac, St Jean d 'Angely, Saintes,
Angoulême and the Atlantic Coast beaches
– if you can tear yourself away from the
Moulin sur Célé
irresistible local delights. Quintessentially
French markets, traffic free cycle routes
(with bikes provided for guests), cosy cafés,
delicious bistros, distillery visits (this is Cognac
country after all), glorious countryside – what
are you waiting for… Cognac-no22.com
The ultimate getaway in the most beautiful
part of France
In the Lot region, southwest France you will
find a magical place – the Moulin sur Célé,
a spectacularly restored 14th century water
Champagne House, Gers
mill in 25 acres of glorious countryside in the
Célé Valley, one of the most beautiful parts of
France. The restored Miller’s House and The
Tower, with gorgeous gardens and pool offer
luxurious relaxation at its best. Surrounded
by landscapes of hypnotic beauty, activities
galore, pickled in the past postcard-pretty
villages and close to historic Cahors, famous
for its marvellous Malbec wine and world class
gastronomy. France at its very best and most
authentic. Lemoulinsurcele.com
Pinch-yourself-pretty luxury boutique
B&B in the Gers
We love this stunningly restored mansion
house, now a Champagne themed elegant
luxury boutique B&B, or full house rental in
the heart of historic Condom in glorious Gers.
Champagne House also hosts writing and
photography retreats plus themed stays. This
is the perfect base for touring the area with
its endless sunflower meadows, vineyards,
chateaux and magnificent fortified towns. And
of course, a glass of bubbly will be served with
a warm welcome. Champagnehouse.fr
Loire Valley Tours – the very best way
to travel
Surely the best way to visit the castles,
vineyards, pretty little villages, historic towns
and gorgeous gardens of the Loire Valley is
Gorgeous chalets, villas and apartments in
the Alps and beyond
The French Alps are a fabulous place to visit
outside year-round. Unbelievably beautiful,
a rich natural playground with flower-filled
meadows in spring and summer with a
backdrop of snow-tipped mountains. OVO
Network’s exclusive, handpicked and frankly
gorgeous chalets, villas and apartments in
stunning locations turn a holiday into a dream
– you won’t want to leave… ovonetwork.com
Sweet gite in a wine making village
in Burgundy
La Maison des Chaumes is a charming gite
in the winemaking village of Villers-la-Faye
in the Côte de Nuits. It’s minutes away from
Burgundy’s crown jewel - historic Beaune,
and just up the hill from the famed vineyards
of Nuits-Saint-Georges and Aloxe-Corton.
lamaisondeschaumes.com
Majestic B&B near Bergerac,
Chateau Masburel
With honey-toned stone walls and sagegreen
shutters, the 18th century Chateau de
Masburel wine domain and award-winning
B&B, and gorgeous gite opening this year, has
a timeless, unhurried feel to it. It’s a working
winery producing award winning wines. Close
to Bergerac, Saint-Emilion and ten minutes
from the bastide town of Sainte-Foy-la-
Grande on the banks of the River Dordogne
in the Gironde. it’s the perfect base to explore
the area and enjoy a delicious and relaxing
break. Chateau-masburel.com
96 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 97

French property and
lifestyle show 2023
The Good Life France is proud to be a partner
along with some of the most trusted names
in French property and lifestyle services –
Currencies Direct, Prestige Property Services,
Northern Cross Wealth Management and LBS
French administration specialists.
On hand will be specialists in French property
and lifestyle, it’s the perfect place to meet
the experts in one place – at the Radisson Blu
Hotel, Derby on 29 and 30 April 2023.
Meet the experts
Longing for a dose of southern French
sunshine, a more laid-back way of life,
a holiday home, a new life or a relaxed
retirement? Then come and explore the
possibilities of moving to France and get
expert help and advice. Property agents
BUYER’S AGENT FRANCE
LUXURY FRENCH REAL ESTATE
Prestige French
Property and
Lifestyle Show 2023
Don’t miss the French property and lifestyles show in the north of England. Taking
place over the weekend of 29 and 30 April it is an absolute must-do for anyone
dreaming or planning to buy a property in France or move to France.
And we’ve got 300 tickets to give away for free – click here to get your free ticket.
AN EXCLUSIVE & CONFIDENTIAL BUYING SERVICE TO ACQUIRE YOUR LUXURY FRENCH PROPERTY
BUYER’S AGENT FRANCE is a bespoke concept, created to meet the specific needs
of the discerning international buyer wishing to acquire luxury French property
buyersagentfrance.com
98 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 99

Prestige French Property
& Lifestyle Show 2023
French Properties for sale
Holiday rentals throughout France
Employment opportunities
Visa requirements
Currency exchange
300
FREE tickets
give away
Free buyers pack for buying in France
Other professional services
(Banking, insurance, Investments etc)
are on hand to inspire with a huge range
of properties available from chateaux
(aren’t we all just dreaming of escaping to
the chateau?!), gorgeous village houses,
properties with land, and bargain doer-uppers
for those keen diy-ers.
French property is surprisingly affordable,
we’ve even seen properties that cost less than
a year’s rent for a 3-bed house in Nottingham.
Post-Brexit, it’s absolutely doable to
move to France, albeit with a few more
administrative requirements. You’ll find all
the experts you need at the French Property
and Lifestyle show to help you negotiate
the buying process, paperwork, and visas.
Yes, you do need a visa now to go to France
for longer than three months out of six, but
once you know how it all works, you’ll find
it’s an administrative process – and there’s
plenty of support and help on hand. And
for those looking to work in France, experts
will be available to talk about employment
opportunities. With optic fibre roll out right
across France – working from home on the
internet has never been easier!
If you’re dreaming of buying a property or
moving to France don’t miss this show.
And if you’re longing for a holiday in France or
want to rent while you search or wait to move
into your dream home – that’s taken care of
too, with holiday rentals throughout France
being showcased at the show.
Walking to the boulangerie for your early
morning coffee, shopping at the market for
local seasonal produce, sitting at a café
watching the world go by – it’s a way of life in
France, and it could be your life.
Get your free tickets exclusively from The Good
Life France: click here, choose date and when
you get to the ticket section- choose the option
The Good Life France to get your free tickets.
Find out more at
prestigepropertynetwork.com
Find out more at
prestigepropertynetwork.com
WHERE
Radisson Blu Derby DE74 2TZ
WHEN
29th & 30th April 2023 10am – 5pm
REGISTER NOW
authorised financial servcies provider
100 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 101 Chamonix

Ille-et-Vilaine, and Morbihan. But they all
share common traits – access to the coast as
well as to the countryside, plus a laid-back
lifestyle.
BRITTANY:
Little Britain
You're never far from the sea in Brittany in
the west of France. Small bays, inlets, rocky
outcrops and sandy beaches surround this
luscious and beautiful country which has
inspired generations of artists.
This ancient land boasts menhirs and all sorts
of pre-historic remains, their meanings lost in
the mists of time. As with any ancient land
imbued with myths and legends, it boasts its
own language. Breton (Brezhoneg) is related
closely to Cornish and more distantly Welsh.
Brittany is made up of four quite distinct
departments: Côtes-d'Armor, Finistère,
A potted history of
Brittany
Once called Armorica, following the fall of the
Roman Empire it was peopled by migrating
waves of Britons in the 4th and 5th centuries.
They gave this beautiful land the name 'Little
Britain.’ Later the Duchy of Brittany had its
embassy in London on Little Britain street! In
time it became known simply as Brittany.
Those early Bretons brought with them their
own customs, language and knowledge
of seafaring. And though the tribes were
many, and divided, they had a common
enemy – France! Several battles resolved
the issue and the French king, Charles the
Bald recognised independent Brittany as
a Duchy. Brittany governed itself for the
next 600 years – it took a marriage for it to
become part of France. Anne of Brittany was
the last independent ruler. She was married
to Charles VIII of France (not willingly) and
when he died (childless) in 1498, she married
his successor Louis XII, in 1499. They had
two daughters and under the terms of their
marriage contract when her daughter Claude
married Francis of Angoulême – who became
Francis I – Brittany was eventually subsumed
into greater France in 1532, though the
Bretons still maintained some autonomy. It
took the French Revolution to finally change
this by abolishing feudal privilege.
Brittany has a unique
culture
The Breton language is making a resurgence
and cultural activities abound throughout the
region with all sorts of festivals year-round
to celebrate Breton culture. The Festival of
Brittany showcases Breton culture with more
102 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 103

Our latest properties for sale in Brittany
chalet villa château farmhouse apartment vineyard gîte cottage coast country city
Kerlouan
EXCLUSIVE
Country Living
Finistère €179,280
Ref: A18521 - A delightful 3 bedroom
home 10 min from Carhaix-Plouguer.
8% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Morbihan €318,000
Ref: A15720 - Beautiful 3 bedroom
restored farmhouse, in a quiet hamlet.
6% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
EXCLUSIVE
Income Potential
Côtes-d’Armor €128,620
Ref: A18133 - 2 Bedroom village house,
close to amenities in Mael Carhaix.
9% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Locronan
than 300 events. The black and white striped
Breton flag flies proudly at these events and
throughout the region.
Brittany has its own delicious gastronomy –
galettes (buckwheat pancakes) and Breton
desserts. Fleur de sel harvested below the
ancient walled town of Guérande is used to
flavour everything. Surely Brittany has the best
seafood in all France with briny oysters, fleshy
lobsters and St Jacques scallops. Local tipples
include pommeau and cider, and a mead type
apéritif called chouchen, there’s even whisky
made from buckwheat!
Property in Brittany
When it comes to property searches in
Brittany, the closer you are to the sea means
the bigger the budget required. Head inland
for captivating countryside and plenty of
properties for sale at affordable prices.
Breton villages tend to be small, stone houses
featuring whitewashed walls, glittering granite
and marine blue shutters, are typical of the
region. Fishing ports tend to be small and
picturesque with white-washed granite houses.
Finistère the furthest west department of
104 | The Good Life France
Brittany is slightly cooler than Morbihan in
the south which is noticeably warmer with
lovely warm summers due to its Atlantic
microclimate. Ille-et-Villaine is home to
Brittany’s capital, Rennes and is more
urbanised than the other departments, while
Côtes-d'Armor is more rugged.
Off the rocky coastline are many islands.
The Golfe de Morbihan is said to have an
island for every day of the year. Belle-Île, the
largest island in Brittany, boasts its own microclimate,
and property here is much soughtafter
– and pricey!
Brittany has great transport options – several
easy to access ferry ports and airports in
St Malo, Brest and Rennes.
Brittany has its own distinctive character
– beautiful historic small cities with halftimbered
properties, charming small villages
and magnificent coastline with numerous
sandy beaches, and a great variety of places
to live.
Joanna Leggett is marketing director at
Leggett Immobilier – you can view their full
portfolio of properties for sale in France at
leggettfrance.com
EXCLUSIVE
Stone Longère
Morbihan €125,000
Ref: A04769 - Attractive 3 bedroom
longère with garden and a gîte to renovate.
9% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
EXCLUSIVE
River Cottage
Ille-et-Vilaine €145,000
Ref: A14680 - Detached 2 bedroom
cottage with river pontoon and mooring!
9% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Finistère €402,800
Ref: A18367 - Imposing 6 bedroom house
a stone’s throw from the beach.
6% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Finistère €246,100
Ref: A16647 - 4 Bedroom property on
the banks of the Nantes/Brest Canal.
7% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
EXCLUSIVE
Historic Home
Morbihan €418,700
Ref: A16085 - Stunning 14th century 5
bedroom manoir with gîte potential.
6% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
EXCLUSIVE
Close to the coast
Côtes-d’Armor €246,100
Ref: A17007 - 5 Bedroom property with a
huge workshop for professional use.
7% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Start your property search today!
+33 (0)5 53 60 84 88 · leggettfrance.com · info@leggett.fr
Information on the risks to which these properties are exposed is available on the Geohazards website:
www.georisques .gouv.fr
The Good Life France | 105

This sunny part of southwestern France is a land of endless beaches and glorious
countryside. Janine Marsh explores what life is like in the two departments of
Les Charentes – Charente-Maritime and Charente…
Cognac, Monica Moriyasu
Charente-Maritime
In Charente-Maritime there are 18 famous
seaside resorts including lively Les Sables
d’Olonne and family-friendly Saint-Jeande-Monts.
When you’re not enjoying a
dip in the gulf-streamed warm sea there’s
plenty to do from cycling to hanging out at
the eye-poppingly excellent multi award
winning Puy du Fou theme park with shows
featuring historic periods of France including
the Romans and Vikings. You can go island
hopping, slurp on the freshest mussels and
sea food washed down with scrumptious
local wines, and enjoy a laidback lifestyle.
With access to three airports, and fast TGV
trains to Paris, the department is popular for
its fine sandy beaches, beautiful countryside,
slow pace of life, year-round mild climate
and superb gastronomy including locally
grown oysters.
The capital of the department is La Rochelle,
a bustling coastal town and centre of marine
commerce. It has beaches, a pretty harbour
surrounded by cafés and stalls, medieval
covered arcades and cobbled narrow streets.
Most of the available property tends to be
apartment style new builds.
Picturesque Ile de Ré just off La Rochelle,
adored by Parisians, and reached via a toll
bridge, is so in demand that new builds are
all but banned and property costs more than
twice the price of mainland property.
If you yearn for seaside living but don’t fancy
forking out a fortune on the Ile de Ré, try Ile
d’Oléron, France’s second largest island after
Corsica but strangely, little known to overseas
The laid back charms of
LES CHARENTES
Ile De Re © Fred Tassart
106 | The Good Life France La Rochelle
The Good Life France | 107

A FEW BOXES OR
A WHOLE HOUSE FULL
Door-to-door moving
between the UK and France
Saintes
enquiries@provencemovers.com • www.provencemovers.com
visitors. Up and coming, charming and
uncommercial, Oléron is not that much further
from La Rochelle than the swanky Ile de Ré,
but it’s a lot less crowded and the bridge that
connects it to the mainland is toll free.
Head 30-40 minutes inland or round the
coast and you’ll find your budget will go much
further. Fouras, overlooking Fort Boyard, is a
charming coastal town with sandy beaches,
a castle, super covered market and a bustling
little town. Beach lovers will enjoy Point
d’Espagnole on the Côte Sauvage, south of
Rochefort. La Tremblade is a well-kept secret
with great beaches backed by sand dunes and
pine forests. Rochefort is a lively town with
beautiful buildings, a great range of shops and
restaurants and plenty going on year-round.
Purpose built in the 17th century to house
military dockyards, the town’s Corderie Royale
(royal rope factory) is famous. Further inland,
Port d’Envaux, once a strategic commercial
port, is now a vibrant village on the banks of
the River Charente with a river beach and
water activities galore.
Ile d'Oleron © Alison BOISSARD
Moving to France
Financial Planning for Expats
Planning a U.S. Return
Financial planning services
for US expats in France,
wherever you are on your
international journey…
sanderlingexpat.com
108 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 109

fabulously easy.
On the Ile de Ré the donkeys wear trousers! A tradition that goes back to the
days when the island was plagued by insects. Though not a problem now, the
trousers remain!
Insurance services for English speakers in France
If you seek city life within easy distance of
the sea, Saint Jean-d’Angély, named after
Jean the Baptist, legend has it his skull was
once kept in the abbey, is a quintessential
French town. And historic Saintes, a Ville
d’Art et Histoire, boasts some of the finest
Roman ruins in France and is on the pilgrim
Route de Santiago de Compostela. It’s
famous in France for its annual classical
music festival held at the monumental 11th
century Abbey aux Dames. Saintes has
excellent facilities, is surrounded by glorious
countryside and is less than an hour from
the coast.
With around 470 communes – including
cities, villages and seaside Charente-
Maritime has lots to offer.
Charente
Charente, named after the Charente River, is
a place of forests and hills and lush vineyards
where Cognac is produced, the department’s
most famous product.
Charente is served by excellent motorways
with easy access from the ports of Brittany
and Normandy and around 7 hours’ drive
from the port of Calais. Closest airport
Angouleme
La Rochelle offers flights to the UK and
Europe, as do Bordeaux-Merignac and
Poitiers airports a little further afield. From
Angoulême you can reach Paris by train in
just 1.5 hours.
Vineyards are sprinkled across the region
with the most prestigious being in Grand
Champagne (no relation to Champagne
further north), a member of the European
Cittaslow movement where quality of
life takes precedence. Though not as
celebrated as Bordeaux, Charente’s vines
produce fine wines and local favourite,
Pineau des Charentes, a fortified wine
drunk as an aperitif.
There’s a good choice of both town and
country living with three main districts.
The biggest is Angoulême, the capital
(population circa 42,000) which borders
Dordogne and is famous for its International
Comics Festival. It’s easy to get around and
has a great range of shops, restaurants and
bars, as well as cultural venues.
The second biggest district – Cognac, is
popular with tourists due to the famous
drink. But there’s more to it than eau-devie,
with a thriving centre and plenty of
shops and restaurants.
Speak to a dedicated English-speaking Broker who’s
also a French native speaker so to avoid the pitfalls and
headaches of the French system.
Medical Insurance
Home Insurance
Car Insurance
Visa Insurance
and more
We work with more than 30 insurers and many more
providers so we are always able to find the best and most
affordable solution for your situation.
We’ve got you covered.
33 (0)5 35 65 50 50
hello@fabfrenchinsurance.com
www.fabfrenchinsurance.com
110 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 111

Finally, Confolens, which borders Limousin,
is a sleepy medieval town in a largely rural
district, with a growing tourist market.
In Charente, you’re never far from the
countryside, and with 404 communes in
the department – there’s a lot of choice.
Charentaise style houses and traditional stone
properties are sought after.
Small towns such as Ruffec in the north of the
department are popular. The classic French
market town has a good choice of shops and
restaurants plus a train service to Bordeaux
and Paris. Aubeterre-sur-Dronne in the south
of the department is another favourite with
expats, officially one of the most beautiful
villages in France. The prices are slightly
higher here and if summer crowds are not your
thing, then this one probably isn’t for you.
Life in Charente is laid back and outdoorsy
thanks to the great weather. It’s an area
where you can enjoy a tranquil rural lifestyle
but with access to the facilities of a town,
year-round activities and close to the Atlantic
coast beaches.
Charente and Charente-Maritime have
become more popular with both French and
overseas buyers over the last few years, thanks
to wide-open spaces, a gentle pace of life,
great beaches and beautiful countryside,
lots of sunny days, excellent local produce,
proximity to Bordeaux and Dordogne plus
great transport links…
Aubeterre sur Dronne © Catherine Bon
112 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 113

Your one stop shop for the finest quality
food from Britain and Ireland.
Photography © Christophe Roué 2022
PEARS in
Puff Pastry
Serves 4
Active Time: 20–25 minutes
Cooking Time: 25 minutes
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INGREDIENTS
2 ripe but firm pears
1 tsp lemon juice
2 tsp brown sugar
Ground cinnamon (optional)
3 tbsp jam, such as apricot, fig, or
Mirabelle plum
1 sheet puff pastry, preferably all-butter
Granulated sugar (optional)
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C/
Gas Mark 5).
Wash the pears and cut them in half
lengthwise. Brush the cut sides with a little
lemon juice, then sprinkle with the brown sugar
and a little ground cinnamon, if you wish.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and
place the pears, cut side down, on it. Spoon a
little jam onto the rounded side of each pear.
Roll out the puff pastry to a thickness of about
¼ in. (5 mm) and lay it over the pear halves.
Using a sharp knife, cut the pastry around
each half, so it is completely covered with a
pastry shell. You can use the dough trimmings
to cut out fun shapes, such as small branches
and leaves, to decorate the shells. Brush the
shapes with a little water and press them
gently onto the pastry shells to attach them.
Cut 2 small slits in each pastry shell to let
steam escape. Sprinkle them with cinnamon
and granulated sugar, if you wish. Bake for
20–25 minutes, until the pastry is golden
brown.
Let cool for 1–2 minutes, then carefully turn
each pear half over. Serve warm or at room
temperature.
KITCHEN NOTES: The pears
can be served with a scoop of
ice cream, granola, or chocolate
chips.
You can also make this recipe
using other fruits, such as apples,
peaches, or apricots—the choice
is yours.
Extracted from My Art of Entertaining: Recipes and
Tips from Miss Maggie’s Kitchen by Héloïse Brion
(Flammarion, 2022).
114 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 115

Frosted
Pistachio Cake
Serves 10
Active Time: 25–30 minutes
Cooking Time: 40–45 minutes
Cooling Time: 25–30 minutes
Chilling Time: 15 minutes
INGREDIENTS
For the cake
Butter and flour, for greasing
2 cups (9 oz./250 g) shelled pistachios
2¼ cups (10 oz./280 g) all-purpose flour
1 scant tbsp (11 g) baking powder
2 pinches baking soda
1 generous pinch fleur de sel
1½ sticks (6 oz./180 g) unsalted butter, diced,
at room temperature
¾ cup (5 oz./150 g) superfine sugar
2⁄3 cup (5¼ oz./150 g) brown sugar
4 egg whites
½ cup (4¼ oz./120 g) crème fraîche
1 tsp bitter almond extract
Scant 1 cup (240 ml) low-fat milk
For the frosting and decoration
1 cup (9 oz./250 g) cream cheese, at room
temperature
7 tbsp (4 oz./110 g) unsalted butter, diced, at
room temperature
3 cups (14 oz./400 g) confectioners’ sugar
Shelled pistachios, roughly chopped
Assorted berries and fresh herbs
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas
Mark 4). Grease a 9½-in. (24-cm) springform
pan with butter and dust with flour.
Pulse the pistachios into fine crumbs using a
food processor. Place in a mixing bowl and stir
in the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and
fleur de sel until combined.
In a separate large bowl, beat together the
butter, superfine sugar, and brown sugar.
Using an electric beater, whisk in the egg
whites one at a time, then whisk at high speed
for 2–3 minutes until light and creamy. Stir
in the crème fraîche and almond extract.
Gradually fold in the dry ingredients. Stir in
the milk.
Transfer the batter to the pan. Bake for 40–45
minutes, or until the tip of a knife inserted
into the center comes out clean. Let cool for
about 10 minutes before removing from the
pan. Transfer to a serving plate and let cool for
15–20 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the frosting. Stir together
the cream cheese and butter until smooth,
then gradually stir in the confectioners’ sugar.
Chill for about 15 minutes.
Spread a thick layer of frosting over the top
of the cake and decorate as you wish with
pistachios, berries, and herbs.
Photography © Christophe Roué 2022
Extracted from My Art of Entertaining: Recipes and
Tips from Miss Maggie’s Kitchen by Héloïse Brion
(Flammarion, 2022).
116 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 117

JACQUES’S
Beef Bourguignon
Serves 6–8
Active Time: 25 minutes
Cooking Time: About 3½ hours
INGREDIENTS
4–5 tbsp canola oil
3 lb. (1.5 kg) stewing beef, cut into 2-in. (5-cm)
cubes
10½ oz. (300 g) smoked bacon, cut into
lardons
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 bottle red wine (Chianti or Bordeaux)
3 tbsp tomato paste
2 cups (500 ml) beef stock
2 bay leaves
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1½ tbsp unsalted butter, divided
14 oz. (400 g) pearl onions, peeled (and
halved, if large)
14 oz. (400 g) assorted mushrooms (button,
girolle, chanterelle, etc.)
3 carrots, peeled and sliced thinly crosswise
2 tbsp all-purpose flour (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/Gas
Mark 2). Place the covered pot in the oven
and cook for 2½ hours.
Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large
skillet, add the pearl onions, and sauté over
medium heat until browned. In a separate
skillet, melt the remaining butter, add the
mushrooms, and sauté over medium heat until
browned. Set aside.
Remove the pot from the oven and add the
sliced carrots, pearl onions, and mushrooms.
Let simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes,
until the beef and vegetables are tender. Taste
and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.
If you wish to thicken the sauce, place the
flour in a bowl and whisk in about 1 tablespoon
cold water using a fork until smooth. Gradually
whisk in 3 tablespoons of the sauce from the
pot, then pour this mixture into the pot and stir
until the sauce slowly thickens.
METHOD
Heat half the oil in a large Dutch oven (lidded
cooking pot) and sear the beef cubes in
batches over high heat, removing them as
they brown and adding more oil as necessary.
When all the meat has browned, place it all
back in the pot. Add the bacon and onion, and
cook for 3–4 minutes over medium heat. Stir
in the garlic, wine, tomato paste, beef stock,
bay leaves, and thyme and bring to a simmer,
scraping the bottom of the pot to incorporate
any meat juices sticking to it. Cover and let
simmer for 15 minutes.
Extracted from My Art of Entertaining: Recipes and
Tips from Miss Maggie’s Kitchen by Héloïse Brion
(Flammarion, 2022).
Photography © Christophe Roué 2022.
118 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 119

Braised Ham
JAMBON BRAISÉ
Serves 4
Active time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 3 hours 20 minutes
Storage: 4 days in the refrigerator
EQUIPMENT
Thin-bladed knife
INGREDIENTS
Braised ham
6½-lb. (3-kg) ham, preferably milk-fed
Coarse grey sea salt, as needed
Freshly ground pepper
Olive oil
Glaze
Scant ½ cup (5 oz./150 g) acacia honey
3 tbsp (1¾ oz./50 g) butter
2 tsp (10 ml) soy sauce
METHOD
Preparing the braised ham
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C/Gas
Mark 6). Using the thin-bladed knife, score the
ham skin in a criss-cross pattern, then pierce
all over. Rub the outside with coarse grey sea
salt, pressing it into the scored pattern. Season
with pepper and place in a baking dish. Drizzle
with a little olive oil and bake for 40 minutes,
then cover with aluminium foil and continue to
bake for 1 hour. Lower the oven temperature
to 290°F (145°C/Gas Mark 1) and bake for an
additional 1 hour.
Glazing the ham
Warm the honey, butter, and soy sauce
in a saucepan until liquefied. Remove the
ham from the oven and increase the oven
temperature to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4).
When the oven reaches this temperature,
brush the glaze over the ham and bake for 12
minutes. Repeat this process twice more until
the ham is glossy and golden brown, and the
meat comes away easily from the bone.
Extracted from My Art of Entertaining: Recipes and
Tips from Miss Maggie’s Kitchen by Héloïse Brion
(Flammarion, 2022).
Photography © Christophe Roué 2022.
120 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 121

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Alsace is home to the oldest tourist
wine route in France – testament to
the superb wines that have long been
produced here says Laurent Yung of
SomMailier French Wine Club…
Alsace, in north-eastern France on the border
with Germany, has a dual personality. It’s
resolutely French and yet the people speak
with a faint German accent. The names of
the villages are German in origin. And, the
food, whilst undeniably French, has a rather
Teutonic flavour, just think of choucroute
(sauerkraut) and those hearty, meaty stews.
This is because the area was fought over by
France and Germany for centuries, and it
switched its nationality 7 times! Germany
ceded the region to France after WWII and
the Treaty of Versailles.
122 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 123

The Wines of Alsace
The wines too are without doubt French but
have more than a touch of German influence
about them – noticeably the grape varieties
used and the ubiquitous Germanic script
on many of the labels. In addition, they use
the German way of naming and ranking
their wines and regions. Stylistically though,
they are very different from those of the
Rhine and Mosel, being weightier and more
concentrated.
The Alsace plain is a wide band of land on
either side of the Rhine river. Rich in alluvial
deposits, it was formed at least five million
years ago when the Vosges-Black Forest
Massif collapsed. Its vineyards are located on
the edge of the plain, along the Vosges fault.
The Romans planted vines here more than
2000 years ago.
Three main groups of terroirs live side by side.
The first – the most sloping – has soil that is
granitic and sandy, filtering and acidic. The
second boasts well-drained hills that are
calcareous or marly at altitudes of between
200 and 300m. This is where the Grands
Crus – of which there are 51 from 7 grape
varieties - are to be found, wines with amazing
personality. The third group is formed by big
alluvial terraces of pebbles, sand and gravel.
The special terroir of climate, slope and
soil combine to produce some of France’s
most aromatic white wines – Riesling,
Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat
are considered the finest grape varieties in
Alsace, and the superb sparkling Cremant
d’Alsace.
The Alsace wine route
Riquewihr
The Alsace wine route winds its way between
wonky half-timbered villages that look like
they’ve fallen out of a set of a grand German
opera or maybe a Walt Disney movie.
Picturesque villages full of lopsided buildings,
fairy tale castles and towers that look like
Rapunzel once lived there are plentiful along
the 170km historic wine route which runs
from Marlenheim in the north (20km from
Strasbourg) to Thann in the south. Vineyards
lap right up to the walls of castles and to the
edge of flowery villages, several of which are
classified ‘Plus Beaux Villages de France’ (the
most beautiful villages in France), as you pass
by the sunny hillsides.
In Eguisheim, officially one of the most
beautiful villages in France, the medieval
streets wind wing in a helter-skelter effect
around a castle. Bergheim, AKA ‘capital’ of
Gewurtztraminer is filled with half-timbered
15th century houses. Riquewihr where the
many vaulted cellars offer several varieties of
wine. The villages are surrounded by walking
trails, and you can crisscross the hills by bike,
as the cycle route of the Alsace vineyards runs
parallel with the road. And in Kaysersberg,
voted favourite village of the French in 2021,
explore the narrow, cobbled streets lined with
half-timbered buildings.
If you stand at the top of one of the Grand
Cru vineyards high up in the Vosges
mountains, you begin to get a clue as to
why this area is so very special. The view
across the Rhine Rift Valley into Germany
is magnificent on a clear day. The best
vineyards nestle high up, facing the sun and
protected from the westerly winds by the
Vosges. These mountains also create a rain
shadow effect which is why Colmar is the
driest town in France after Perpignan deep
down south near the Spanish border.
Along the way enjoy delicious wines and
wind down in a winstub, a traditional
style bistro and savour local dishes like
flammekueche (Alsatian pizza), coq au
Riesling, spaetzle, sauerkraut and Munster,
the king of Alsatian cheeses.
Enjoy the finest wines of France from
SomMailier.com USA and get 10% off
using the code TGLF2023
124 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 125

Last
Word
Seasons come and go, and each has its own charms, but spring has a special place
in my heart, especially here in the countryside of northern France where I notice the
seasonal changes a bit more than when I lived in a city.
My neighbours start to emerge from homes that have had shutters closed to keep
out the winter gales. The bare branches of trees start to turn green, gardens fill with
daffodils, then bluebells, tulips, and soon roses. Pierre the farmer’s dog Villaine, a
rather rotund Labrador, patrols the streets accompanied by Madame Bernadette’s
yappy Jack Russell D’Artagnan and on those spring days when the sun feels almost
summery, the pair of them lay on the boules pitch on the village green, lazily
watching tractors go by. And there are plenty of those!
This is farming country, and most of the people here work in the agricultural
industries. It’s not an easy life, nor well paid but farmers have a love and respect for
the soil and the land, terroir they call it, is in the soul of those who live here. I confess,
when I first arrived, I didn’t get it like I do now. I fell head over heels for a hovel of a
farmhouse. And sure, the countryside is glorious. But it’s much more than that. There
is a whole ecosystem in this little village, wild birds, moles, polecats, wild pigs, deer,
pheasant, bees, and so much diverse wildlife alongside meadows of wildflowers,
living hedges that co-exist with fields worked by farmers and pastures fall of cows
and goats not to mention the people that live here.
From day one after we made this little village our forever home, Jean-Claude
became my mentor, teaching me how to work with the weather and the land and
Claudette, his now 90-year-old mother-in-law, taught me how to cook what I grow
and work with what the seasons bring. I was a city slicker then, direct from London,
clueless. But living close to the land as we do here teaches you respect for what it
gives as well as for community, sharing and friendship.
And in spring, when we emerge, groundhog like from our homes to catch up with
each other, share seeds and recipes, help the farmers if they need it – those of us
who are young enough at least! – I know that I too have this place deeply embedded
in my soul.
As Claudette says, and she is the wisest woman in the village, spring is like nature’s
birthday party – and we’re all invited.
Happy spring!
Janine
Janine Marsh lives in France with her husband and around 60 animals. Her books My Good Life
in France, My Four Seasons in France and Toujours la France are available at Amazon and all
good book shops. Her new book How to be French will be published in September 2023.
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126 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 127

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