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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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<strong>of</strong> the FAO/WHO/UNICEF/Protein-rich food program.<br />

“The First International Conference sponsored by FAO,<br />

WHO <strong>and</strong> Josiah Macy Jr. Foundation (New York) held<br />

in Jamaica in 1953, discussed the biological, technical<br />

<strong>and</strong> pathological aspects <strong>of</strong> protein malnutrition. The next<br />

Conference on ‘Human protein requirements <strong>and</strong> their<br />

fulfi llments in practice’ held in Princeton in 1955 under the<br />

same sponsorship, gave detailed consideration to the testing<br />

<strong>of</strong> new protein rich foods before their use in child feeding<br />

was recommended.<br />

“The Protein Advisory Group (PAG) was established<br />

by the Director-General <strong>of</strong> WHO in 1955 to ‘act on behalf<br />

<strong>of</strong> WHO in rendering advice to FAO <strong>and</strong> UNICEF on the<br />

safety <strong>and</strong> suitability for human consumption <strong>of</strong> proposed<br />

new protein-rich foods.’ The PAG... became a tripartite FAO/<br />

WHO/UNICEF Protein Advisory Group in 1961.”<br />

Soybean milk: “In 1939, K.S. Lo established a fi rm<br />

known as ‘Hong Kong Soyabean Products’ to produce<br />

sterilized bottled soya milk. The two plants <strong>of</strong> the fi rm in<br />

Hong Kong produce 12,000 cases (24 x 7-oz. bottles per<br />

case) a day.”<br />

Also discusses miso, natto, tempeh, full-fat soya fl our,<br />

soya presscake <strong>and</strong> meal, groundnut protein isolate. Address:<br />

Regional Offi ce for Asia <strong>and</strong> Far East, FAO, Bangkok,<br />

Thail<strong>and</strong>.<br />

486. Kamada, H.; Ebine, H.; Nakano, M. 1965. Nattô to miso<br />

genryo toshite no daizu hinshitsu no hantei-hô [Evaluation<br />

method <strong>of</strong> the quality <strong>of</strong> soybean employed for natto <strong>and</strong><br />

miso manufacturing]. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi (J. <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Society <strong>of</strong> Brewing, Japan) 60(7):620-23. July. [8 ref. Jap]<br />

Address: 1. Karepisu [Calpis] Shokuhin Kenkyujo.<br />

487. Shibamoto, G. 1965. [Experimental studies on the<br />

nutritive effect <strong>of</strong> natto. III]. Tokyo Ika Daigaku Zasshi (J. <strong>of</strong><br />

Tokyo Medical College) 23:367-70. [Jap]*<br />

488. Arimoto, Kinitaro; Sakurai, Yoshito. 1965. Food <strong>and</strong><br />

nutrition in Japan. In: Martin S. Peterson <strong>and</strong> Donald K.<br />

Tressler, eds. 1965. Food Technology the World Over. Vol. II.<br />

South America, Africa <strong>and</strong> the Middle East, Asia. Westport,<br />

Connecticut: AVI Publishing Co., Inc. ix + 414 p. See p. 359-<br />

94. Illust. Index. 24 cm. [13 ref]<br />

• Summary: This chapter, after the Introduction, is divided<br />

into two parts: 1, titled “Nutrition (p. 360-74)” by Arimoto,<br />

<strong>and</strong> 2, titled “Food technology” (p. 374-94)” by Yosito<br />

[Yoshito] Sakurai. In Part 1, table 110, “Food supply in<br />

Japan” includes average statistics on soybeans, miso, <strong>and</strong><br />

shoyu in kg/year <strong>and</strong> gm/day for 1944-1948, 1961, <strong>and</strong><br />

1961. in kg/year for the three periods: Soybeans: 3.5, 5.4,<br />

<strong>and</strong> 5.0. Miso: 10.6, 8.1, <strong>and</strong> 7.7. Shoyu: 15.9, 13.0, <strong>and</strong><br />

11.1. Source: Ministry <strong>of</strong> Agriculture <strong>and</strong> Forestry, Balance<br />

Sheets. Surprisingly, supplies were greater for each during<br />

<strong>and</strong> immediately after World War II than in the early 1960s.<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 170<br />

Table 116, “Intake <strong>of</strong> foods classifi ed into food groups<br />

<strong>and</strong> type <strong>of</strong> work (gm per capita per day), 1963” gives<br />

statistics for the entire nation, agricultural households, <strong>and</strong><br />

non-agricultural households, as follows: Soybeans: 1.3,<br />

1.7, 1.0. Miso: 25.1, 30.1, 22.5. Soybean products: 37.3,<br />

29.9, 41.5. Seaweeds: 4.6, 4.2, 4.7. Shoyu: 26.2, 30.0, 23.6.<br />

Soybean products as a source <strong>of</strong> high quality protein are<br />

discussed (p. 366).<br />

Part 2 begins with a section on “Rice” (p. 374-77) which<br />

notes that rice supplies half the calories in the Japanese diet.<br />

Japan produces all <strong>of</strong> the rice it needs–about 13 million tons.<br />

Imported rice (about 150,000 tons) is used only as a raw<br />

material in confections <strong>and</strong> miso. Japan imports most <strong>of</strong> its<br />

soybean from the USA <strong>and</strong> China, <strong>and</strong> these soybeans are<br />

processed by characteristically Japanese methods to make<br />

t<strong>of</strong>u, miso, <strong>and</strong> shoyu (p. 377).<br />

Animal husb<strong>and</strong>ry is not widely practiced in Japan,<br />

largely because the l<strong>and</strong> is hilly with few grazing l<strong>and</strong>s. Thus<br />

most beef, pork, <strong>and</strong> chicken are imported. The production<br />

<strong>of</strong> cow’s milk is gradually increasing; it is now 27 million<br />

hectoliters.<br />

Packaging <strong>of</strong> foods has changed greatly during the<br />

past decade. Packaged foods are now common. Shoyu <strong>and</strong><br />

miso, once sold by the measure, are now sold in bottles <strong>and</strong><br />

plastic bags, respectively. Table 128 (p. 378), titled “Supply<br />

<strong>of</strong> raw materials <strong>and</strong> food consumption <strong>of</strong> their products in<br />

1959 (Japan)” shows the following for soybeans (in metric<br />

tons = tonnes). Soybeans–Domestic supply: 410,000 tonnes.<br />

Imports: 1,000,000 tonnes. Miso consumption: 850,000<br />

tonnes. Shoyu: 1,280,000 tonnes. T<strong>of</strong>u: 640,000 tonnes.<br />

Aburaage 170,000 tonnes. <strong>Natto</strong> 60,000 tonnes. Meat<br />

330,000 tonnes. Fishery products: 6,170,000 tonnes.<br />

The section titled “Soybeans” (p. 380-86) has the<br />

following contents: Introduction. Miso, shoyu, natto, t<strong>of</strong>u,<br />

korit<strong>of</strong>u (dried t<strong>of</strong>u) [dried-frozen t<strong>of</strong>u], yuba. Photos show:<br />

(1) Shoyu brewing in tanks in a large factory. (2) Pressing<br />

<strong>and</strong> washing <strong>of</strong> t<strong>of</strong>u in korit<strong>of</strong>u manufacture in a large,<br />

modern factory. (3) Aerial view <strong>of</strong> a large, modern plant for<br />

korit<strong>of</strong>u production. (4) The thawing operation in making<br />

korit<strong>of</strong>u. (5) The drying operation in making korit<strong>of</strong>u.<br />

Address: 1. PhD, Director, National Inst. <strong>of</strong> Nutrition, Tokyo,<br />

Japan; 2. PhD, Pr<strong>of</strong>., Dep. <strong>of</strong> Agricultural Chemistry, Faculty<br />

<strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Tokyo Univ., Tokyo, Japan.<br />

489. Br<strong>and</strong>emuhl, William. 1965. Soybean utilization in<br />

Japan. San Francisco, California. xxii + 478 p. Unpublished<br />

manuscript. 28 cm. [189 ref]<br />

• Summary: A superb, in-depth, pioneering study, based<br />

on extensive original fi eld research in Japan. It is carefully<br />

documented with hundreds <strong>of</strong> original interviews <strong>and</strong><br />

published sources properly cited in two different lists <strong>of</strong><br />

sources (numerical <strong>and</strong> alphabetical) Contains 30 tables <strong>and</strong><br />

190 excellent photos–including 7 <strong>of</strong> the author.<br />

Table <strong>of</strong> contents: Preface. Notes. List <strong>of</strong> tables. List

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