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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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conjecture that natto came from Java.<br />

However the incorrect theory actually turned out to have<br />

powerful predictive value, especially as close relatives <strong>of</strong><br />

natto were discovered in northeast India by Tamang <strong>and</strong> coworkers<br />

starting in 1988, more than 15 years after the “natto<br />

triangle” hypothesis was proposed.<br />

603. National Food Research Institute. 1972. National Food<br />

Research Institute [Japan]. NFRI, Ministry <strong>of</strong> Agriculture<br />

<strong>and</strong> Forestry, Shiohama-cho 1-4-12, Koto-ku, Tokyo. 27 p.<br />

[144 ref. Eng]<br />

• Summary: Contents: Brief history. Budget <strong>and</strong> personnel.<br />

Organization. General survey <strong>of</strong> the Institute. Major research<br />

area. Facilities <strong>and</strong> pilot plants. Reports <strong>and</strong> patents.<br />

Publications. Scholarship. Location.<br />

In 1934, the Rice Utilization Research Laboratory was<br />

established by the national government. The fi rst building<br />

<strong>of</strong> about 330 square meters was completed in 1935 at the<br />

present site. In 1944 the title <strong>of</strong> the Laboratory was changed<br />

to the Research Institute <strong>of</strong> the Bureau <strong>of</strong> Staple Food<br />

Administration, <strong>and</strong> investigations were directed toward the<br />

processing <strong>and</strong> utilization <strong>of</strong> unconventional food resources.<br />

“Owing to the change in the food situation in Japan<br />

during World War II, the Institute carried out extensive<br />

research on the most effi cient utilization <strong>of</strong> the nutrients in<br />

various foodstuffs, <strong>and</strong> on fi nding new food sources among<br />

various agricultural products, so as to meet the serious food<br />

shortage. This trend continued through the post-war period as<br />

the nation struggled with an even more acute food shortage<br />

problem. Fats <strong>and</strong> oils, fruits <strong>and</strong> vegetables, <strong>and</strong> fermented<br />

soybean products miso <strong>and</strong> soybean sauce were added as<br />

subjects <strong>of</strong> research.<br />

“The Institute again changed its name to the Food<br />

Research Institute in 1947, <strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong>fi cial analysis <strong>and</strong><br />

st<strong>and</strong>ardization <strong>of</strong> food commodities were included in<br />

its activities... The Institute came to belong to the Food<br />

Agency in 1949 <strong>and</strong> later, in 1961, as a result <strong>of</strong> the reform<br />

in agricultural research administration, it was brought under<br />

the administration <strong>of</strong> the Agriculture, Forestry, <strong>and</strong> Fisheries<br />

Research Council together with other agricultural research<br />

establishments.” The name was changed for a third time to<br />

the National Food Research Institute in 1970.<br />

T. Watanabe is the Director <strong>of</strong> the organization. The<br />

fermentation research division is headed by H. Ebine,<br />

<strong>and</strong> consists <strong>of</strong> the following laboratories: Fermentation<br />

microbiology (M. Matsuno), fermentation chemistry (T.<br />

Ohta), industrial fermentation (H. Ito), mycotoxin (H.<br />

Ebine), resources utilization (N. Tsumura). The nutrition<br />

research division is headed by S. Kimura.<br />

Note: This institute moved from Tokyo to Tsukuba<br />

in Feb. 1979. Address: Shokuhin Sogo Kenkyujo, Tokyo,<br />

Japan.<br />

604. Sakaguchi, Kinichiro. 1972. Development <strong>of</strong> industrial<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 208<br />

microbiology in Japan. In: Proceedings <strong>of</strong> the [Sixth]<br />

International Symposium on Conversion <strong>and</strong> Manufacture<br />

<strong>of</strong> Foodstuffs by Microorganisms. Tokyo: Saikon Publishing<br />

Co. viii + 297 p. See p. 7-10. Held 5-9 Dec. 1971 at Kyoto,<br />

Japan. [Eng]<br />

• Summary: Japan has made many important contributions<br />

to the development <strong>of</strong> industrial microbiology, especially<br />

industrial mycology, because <strong>of</strong> the widespread use <strong>of</strong> koji<br />

molds (Aspergillus oryzae). Foods made from this one mold<br />

(including sake, miso, <strong>and</strong> soy sauce) accounted for about<br />

1.5% <strong>of</strong> the Japanese gross national product, or ¥75,000<br />

billion, in 1970.<br />

Early documents show that molds were being used to<br />

make foods as early as 1,000 B.C. in China <strong>and</strong> as far back<br />

as the 6th century [A.D.] in Japan. In Japan, the use <strong>of</strong> lactic<br />

acid fermentation in the pure culture <strong>of</strong> yeast is already<br />

mentioned in “the diary <strong>of</strong> sake” [Goshu no Nikki] written<br />

in 1355, however the technology <strong>of</strong> adding koji starter [tané<br />

koji or “seed koji”] is even 400 years earlier [i.e., ca 955].<br />

Moreover, an unmistakable description <strong>of</strong> low temperature<br />

pasteurization (hiire) appears in the Tamon-in Diary (1539-<br />

1596), “which was written about 300 years prior to Pasteur’s<br />

famous invention.”<br />

When Japan began to introduce European scientifi c<br />

techniques during the Meiji period (Sept. 1868 to July<br />

1912), the fi rst subject <strong>of</strong> scientifi c research in Japan was<br />

the unique koji mold. One <strong>of</strong> the fi rst major discoveries<br />

was the invention <strong>of</strong> Takadiastase [an enzyme] by Jokichi<br />

Takamine. This enzyme has a great infl uence on biological<br />

chemistry, enzyme chemistry, <strong>and</strong> various enzymes using<br />

microorganisms worldwide.<br />

Soon the physiology <strong>of</strong> the koji mold <strong>and</strong> its<br />

fermentation products (especially organic acids) was studied<br />

by Japanese scientists. The determination <strong>of</strong> kojic acid by<br />

Yabuta was a major discovery. The Rhyzopus [Rhizopus]<br />

mold was also investigated; this led to the development <strong>of</strong><br />

producing organic acids fumaric acid, citric acid, isocitric<br />

acid, itaconic acid, gluconic acid <strong>and</strong> others.<br />

Two outst<strong>and</strong>ing discoveries have recently been made<br />

in Japan: (1) The technology for making L-glutamic acid,<br />

lysine, <strong>and</strong> other amino acids; (2) The microbial technology<br />

for making fl avor-enhancing nucleotides such as inosinic<br />

acid <strong>and</strong> guanylitic acid.<br />

Japanese scientists <strong>and</strong> industries soon realized that<br />

instead <strong>of</strong> using microorganisms, the enzymes isolated from<br />

them could be used (in whole or in part) with no reduction<br />

in yield or quality. In the case <strong>of</strong> Aspergillus oryzae, which<br />

produces various enzymes (amylase, lipase, protease, etc.)<br />

this idea has been applied to the manufacture <strong>of</strong> alcohol,<br />

sake, mirin, miso, <strong>and</strong> soy sauce.<br />

The classifi cation <strong>and</strong> taxonomy by Jun Hanzawa <strong>of</strong><br />

microorganisms used in the manufacture <strong>of</strong> natto (fermented<br />

soybean) <strong>and</strong> other popular Japanese fermented foods was <strong>of</strong><br />

major importance.

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