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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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cancer. Miso aging (from Miso Daigaku). (7) The varieties<br />

<strong>of</strong> miso <strong>and</strong> their characteristics (full-page table). (8) The<br />

percentage <strong>of</strong> salt in different miso varieties. (9a) Map <strong>of</strong><br />

Japan shows where the different types <strong>of</strong> miso originate.<br />

(9b) Map <strong>of</strong> Japan showing geographical miso preferences.<br />

A head <strong>of</strong> rice. (10) Famous sub-varieties <strong>of</strong> salty rice<br />

miso. Two heads <strong>of</strong> barley. Table about two types <strong>of</strong> barley<br />

miso. Two sets <strong>of</strong> soybean leaves with pods. Table about<br />

three types <strong>of</strong> soybean miso. The Japanese characters for<br />

Hatcho Miso. (11) A wooden sign in a Hatcho miso <strong>of</strong>fi ce:<br />

“Supplier to the Imperial Household.” (12) Two crosssection<br />

views <strong>of</strong> a tamari miso vat. A small pottery crock<br />

<strong>of</strong> sweet simmered miso (Nerimiso). Packages <strong>of</strong> different<br />

types <strong>of</strong> modern miso: Peanut miso, akadashi miso, low-salt,<br />

high protein miso, Instant miso soup with dried frozen t<strong>of</strong>u,<br />

leeks, wakame. (14) Different types <strong>of</strong> miso packaging, both<br />

traditional <strong>and</strong> modern. A sample miso label. (13) Varieties<br />

<strong>of</strong> miso available in the West, plus characteristics <strong>of</strong> each.<br />

Squeezing a bean <strong>of</strong> miso out <strong>of</strong> the cut corner <strong>of</strong> a plastic<br />

bag. Three different shoyu containers. Six different types <strong>of</strong><br />

t<strong>of</strong>u on a cutting board. (15) Oriental kitchen tools (utensils;<br />

full page). A small crock <strong>of</strong> salt with a wooden spoon in it.<br />

Suribachi <strong>and</strong> modern sesame seed grinder. T<strong>of</strong>u preparatory<br />

techniques. Broiling t<strong>of</strong>u with chopsticks on a broiling<br />

screen. Four forms <strong>of</strong> kombu. Two stylized crossed sheaves<br />

<strong>of</strong> rice. A traditional farmhouse kamado (raised earthenware<br />

cooking area). Pottery crock. Black <strong>and</strong> white sesame seeds<br />

<strong>and</strong> plant. Yuzu. Sprig <strong>of</strong> kinome. Head <strong>of</strong> garlic. Two<br />

burdock roots. Two leeks (negi). Making broiled miso. Hoba<br />

miso. Kaiyaki miso. Yubeshi miso. Wakame plant. A bowl<br />

<strong>of</strong> miso soup. A woman drinking hot miso soup next to a<br />

vending machine. Vegetables cut for miso soup (mi or gu).<br />

Table <strong>of</strong> the most popular ingredients in miso soup. How<br />

to make miso soup at home (4 views). Miso-koshi (woven<br />

bamboo strainer). Mad monks grinding miso. (19) Fullpage<br />

table <strong>of</strong> miso soup throughout the four seasons. Shiso<br />

/ beefsteak leaves. Kabocha. Daikon. Irori <strong>and</strong> jizai kagi<br />

(sunken farmhouse fi replace <strong>and</strong> overhead hanging hook).<br />

Woman serving miso by a sunken / open hearth fi replace.<br />

Woman kneeling, grinding miso with a pestle (suri kogi) in a<br />

suribachi (serrated earthenware mortar / mixing bowl). (20)<br />

Rice patties with nori (o-musubi, o-nigiri). Bamboo noodle<br />

tongs. Homemade noodles in a pot. (21) Broiled mochi<br />

wrapped with nori. (22) Steamed t<strong>of</strong>u. A Chinese cleaver,<br />

with its tip stuck into a chopping block. Cultivated shiitake<br />

mushrooms growing on a log. Kabocha. Daikon. (23) Miso<br />

oden. Doténabé [Dotenabe]. Konnyaku twists. Dengaku<br />

Hoshi. T<strong>of</strong>u dengaku (2 pieces, skewered; 3 pieces skewered<br />

in a box). Japanese eggplant (nasu) scored <strong>and</strong> Shigiyaki.<br />

Deep-frying with a wok. Lotus root stuffed with miso. (24)<br />

Deep-fried s<strong>and</strong>wiches. (25) Gashouse eggs. (26) Layered<br />

omelets. Japanese bamboo steamer. Kashiwa mochi. Selling<br />

miso pickles. Two pickling containers. (27) Salt-pressing.<br />

Air-drying daikon <strong>and</strong> turnips (kabu). Miso pickles with tea<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 234<br />

<strong>and</strong> chopsticks. Amazaké at the Nakamura-ro restaurant.<br />

How to make miso at home: Utensils, ingredients, <strong>and</strong><br />

process (7 fi gures). (29) Miso fermentation crocks. Corona<br />

h<strong>and</strong>-mill. S<strong>of</strong>t mat koji. (30) Proportions by weight <strong>of</strong> basic<br />

ingredients for various homemade misos; full-page table.<br />

(32) Utensils for homemade koji <strong>and</strong> koji starter. (33) Miso<br />

fl ow chart. (34) Composition <strong>of</strong> nutrients in 100 gm <strong>of</strong> basic<br />

miso ingredients. (35) Process for homemade rice koji (9<br />

fi gures). (36) Graph <strong>of</strong> changes in koji temperatures. Woman<br />

leaning over miso vat.<br />

Japanese farmhouse miso: Traditional country<br />

farmhouses (2 views). Raised farmhouse kitchen hearth,<br />

caldrons <strong>and</strong> earthenware dais (kamado). (38) Farmhouse<br />

fl oor plan. A kura (family treasury <strong>and</strong> storehouse). Two<br />

bamboo col<strong>and</strong>ers. Pounding miso at Suwanose. Making<br />

miso in a traditional farmhouse (9 fi gures). Farmhouse<br />

soybean miso made with miso-dama (miso balls) (5 fi gures).<br />

The traditional miso shop: (39) A 17th century<br />

workplace (2 fi gures). (40) Tsujita shop fl oor plan. Koji<br />

trays. (41) Insulated fermentation box. (42) The small tools<br />

(full-page). (43) Shop with 2 cauldrons. (44) Steamer <strong>and</strong><br />

cauldron. (45) A fermentation vat. (46) Shop fl oor at vat’s<br />

rim. Preparing traditional rice miso (31 fi gures). Making koji<br />

using natural mold spores. Stacked koji trays. Making miso<br />

in a semi-traditional shop (5 fi gures). Hatcho miso; company<br />

<strong>and</strong> vats (2 views).<br />

The modern factory (2 fi gures).<br />

A brief history <strong>of</strong> chiang, miso, <strong>and</strong> shoyu (incl.<br />

evolution <strong>of</strong> Chinese characters). Hideyoshi Toyotomi <strong>and</strong><br />

a robber on the bridge (Hatcho miso history). Making misodamari.<br />

Inside a Kikkoman shoyu factory around 1900.<br />

Traditional shoyu seller.<br />

Chinese chiang in earthenware jars in a courtyard.<br />

Korean jang; selling it <strong>and</strong> making at home. (48) The<br />

interaction <strong>of</strong> basic miso components during fermentation.<br />

(49) Temperature control curves for four quick misos. Edo<br />

period shoyu production. Women cutting t<strong>of</strong>u for dengaku<br />

<strong>and</strong> busy making dengaku, both from the book T<strong>of</strong>u Hyaku<br />

Chin. Cartoon <strong>of</strong> a man pouring himself sake, thinking <strong>of</strong><br />

miso soup. Ebisu with fi shing rod <strong>and</strong> big fi sh under left<br />

arm. Tamari shoyu pouring out <strong>of</strong> spigot at base <strong>of</strong> miso<br />

vat. Traditional Japanese kitchen utensils. Sunken fi replace<br />

(irori) with huge carved wooden overhead hook hanging<br />

from braided rice straw rope. Photo (in Nerima-ku, Tokyo)<br />

with brief biography <strong>of</strong> William Shurtleff <strong>and</strong> Akiko Aoyagi.<br />

Address: 790 Los Palos Dr., Lafayette, California 94549.<br />

681. Ishiwata, Hajimu. 1976. [Studies on in vivo formation<br />

<strong>of</strong> nitroso compounds. VII: In vitro formation <strong>of</strong> nitrite by<br />

mixing different kinds <strong>of</strong> foods]. Shokuhin Eiseigaku Zasshi<br />

(J. <strong>of</strong> the Food Hygienic Society <strong>of</strong> Japan) 17(5):369-73.<br />

Oct. (Chem. Abst. 86:70351). [7 ref. Eng]<br />

Address: National Inst. <strong>of</strong> Hygienic Sciences, 18-1,<br />

Kamiyoga 1-chome, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo, Japan.

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