History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

considered to be of good quality when they are covered
with a sticky, viscous, colorless material accompanied by a
pungent odor of ammonia. The moisture level is typically
62%, the pH 8.4, and the number of bacteria per gram of
product 5,200 million. Raw thua-nao is then made into raw
thua-nao paste by mashing the former lightly to make a
paste then grinding in salt and, in most cases, other fl avoring
agents such as garlic, onion and red chilies.
To make cooked thau-nao paste, small portions of the
raw paste are wrapped in banana leaves and steamed at
atmospheric pressure or roasted over an open fi re for about
30 minutes. Containing an average of 52.5% moisture and
16.9% protein, the cooked paste will keep for 2 to 3 days.
For longer storage, raw thua-nao paste is formed into
small balls each 1 to 1½ inches in diameter, which are
pressed to form thin chips and then sun-dried. Containing
17.8% moisture and 36.8% protein, thua-nao chips will
keep for about 6 months. The spice and low moisture both
contribute to the better keeping quality.
Dr. Malee Sundhagul and colleagues at the Applied
Scientifi c Research Corporation in Bangkok, who have done
the pioneering research on thua-nao, have also developed a
modern method of preparation. Whole soybeans are soaked
overnight in water, drained, and steamed at atmospheric
pressure for 2 hours or at 15 pounds pressure for 40 minutes.
After being allowed to cool to below 122ºF (50ºC), they
are inoculated with a 1% water suspension of pure culture
Bacillus subtilis (10 million bacteria per gram of cooked
soybeans) or with 10 to 20% by weight of freshly fermented
thua-nao beans. Spread in 2-inch-deep-layers in wooden
or metal trays and loosely covered with a sheet of plastic,
they are incubated at room temperature (30ºC) for 36 to 40
hours, or at 35ºC for 24 hours, or (as for natto) at 40ºC for 20
hours. Finally the fermented beans, spread in thin layers, can
be dried at 65ºC (150ºF) for 24 hours, then ground to make
thua-nao powder (also called fermented soy meal) which
contains 43.9% protein (one third of which is soluble) and
19.2% fat on a dry weight basis. The production cost of this
powder is about one third that of fi sh meal, Thailand’s least
expensive animal food protein. The powder has been used
to make a low-cost, high-protein food called ‘ferm-soy mix’
which includes 60% thua-nao powder, 20% fi sh meal, 6%
iodized salt, 4% ground red chilies, 4% garlic powder, and
3% onion powder. The product can be eaten mixed directly
into rice or mixed with boiling water to make a sauce or
paste.
877. Greenwood, Rebecca. 1981. Irresistible soy cuisine:
Discover soy yogurt and prepare old favorites. East West
Journal. Oct. p. 64, 66-69.
• Summary: The author prefers fermented soyfoods,
fi nding them more digestible, and richer in enzymes and
vitamins. She describes how to prepare homemade soy viilia
(a yogurt-like product whose starter culture is available
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 284
from GEM Cultures in Fort Bragg, California), homemade
miso, homemade natto and natto condiment, tofu and natto
sandwich spread, an autumn meal with natto, amasake, and
a pecan pie sweetened with thick amasake. She predicts a
bright future for tempeh. Address: Colorado.
878. Wolf, Walter J. 1981. Foreign travel report. Peoria,
Illinois. 4 p. Dec. 18. Typed, with signature.
• Summary: “Country visited: Japan, Oct. 10-21, 1981.
Purpose of trip: (a) Participate in the U.S./Japan Cooperative
Program in Natural Resources (UJNR), Protein Resources
Panel Meeting; (b) participate in UJNR panel study tour; (c)
visit research institutes and industrial laboratories working
on soybean proteins; and (d) participate in symposium on
soy protein foods. Summary: The UJNR meeting in Tsukuba
included 10 presentations by seven Japanese research
workers from six different research institutes and three U.S.
scientists from three USDA regional research centers. Topics
discussed included... (f) single cell protein production from
soybean cooking waste waters; (g) soybean storage; (h)
food uses of soy protein; and (i) nutritional evaluation of
soy proteins. The study tour included a visit to a miso and
soy milk factory which was impressive and confi rms earlier
reports that soy milk has become very popular in Japan in
the past 5 years. Visits to industrial laboratories revealed that
soy proteins are now used in a large variety of foods. Flavor
is one of the last problems holding back development of soy
protein-based foods.”
The UJNR program, initiated in 1964, plays an
important role in implementing the policy of scientifi c
cooperation between the United States and Japan. The
protein panel was organized in 1968, and there are now 17
different panels in UJNR.
Dr. Ebine reported that about 790,000 metric tons (29
million bushels) of soybeans are used in traditional Japanese
foods–miso, natto, tofu. Organizations visited included
Okazaki Marusan Co. Ltd (makes miso, soy milk, and
soy yogurt), Research Institute for Food Science of Kyoto
University at Uji, Nisshin Oil Mills Ltd., Ajinomoto Co.,
Inc., Fujipurina Protein Ltd. (Fuji Oil Co. has a joint venture
with Ralston Purina Co.). Address: Leader, Meal Products
Research, Oilseed Crops Lab., Northern Regional Research
Center, Peoria, Illinois 61604.
879. Dronne, Yves. 1981. Le problème mondial du soja [The
problem of soybean worldwide]. Paris: Institute National de
la Recherche Agronomique. [Fre]*
• Summary: Gives details on Japanese consumption of
industrially processed plant proteins (tons/year of defatted
soybean meal equivalent): Unfermented: Tofu 84,200, Driedfrozen
tofu 22,400, Other products. including texturized
soy protein 87,800. Fermented: Soy sauce 173,000, miso
157,400, natto 55,200. Total: 580,000
Concerning Japanese consumption of new “purifi ed”