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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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Edensoy, Farm Foods, New Engl<strong>and</strong> Soy Dairy, <strong>and</strong> Nasoya<br />

(Leominster, Massachusetts). Legume (Gary & Ch<strong>and</strong>ri<br />

Barat, New York City), Lotos / Lotus Cafe (Greg Weaver,<br />

Rochester, New York).<br />

NRRL (Hesseltine <strong>and</strong> Wang, Peoria, Illinois): Their<br />

work is in mixed starter culture fermentation, vitamin B-12<br />

work. Japanese man from Tokyo to work one year on natto<br />

at NRRL, paid by Japanese government. B-12 can withst<strong>and</strong><br />

some heat during cooking <strong>and</strong> the percentage <strong>of</strong> B-12 lost<br />

depends on the initial percentage present. <strong>Natto</strong> research:<br />

examine all Japanese publications for review article.<br />

Experiment using U.S. soybeans to make natto since the<br />

Japanese buy Chinese beans for their thinner seed coat. See<br />

what happens to the oil to protein ratio during fermentation.<br />

<strong>Natto</strong> as such has no possibilities in the U.S. as it is a slimy<br />

food with a rotten smell; hard to tolerate. There might be<br />

vitamin B-12 in natto produced by Bacillus subtilis. Koreans<br />

have done lots <strong>of</strong> B-12 research with kimchee <strong>and</strong> other<br />

pickled vegetables. Earl Swain died this summer <strong>of</strong> a heart<br />

attack at age 36. <strong>Natto</strong> research will help U.S. soybean<br />

exports. USDA bureaucrats are making it diffi cult for Dr.<br />

Hesseltine to do natto research. They have 65 objectives,<br />

but Dr. Wang’s projects don’t fi t any <strong>of</strong> them clearly, so<br />

they won’t mention “food” in their research outlines, just<br />

fermentation methods. Secretary <strong>of</strong> Agriculture John Block<br />

[served 1981-86 under President Ronald Regan] says the<br />

U.S. needs more ag exports <strong>and</strong> more basic information<br />

about crops uses, so he is in support <strong>of</strong> this natto research.<br />

Out <strong>of</strong> business: Michiana Soyfoods, St. Ignatius shop,<br />

Sunshine Soy, Heartsong, probably Joy <strong>of</strong> Soy <strong>and</strong> a Korean<br />

shop in Salt Lake City, Utah.<br />

Concerning soymilk: 10. In Oak Park, Illinois, a natural<br />

foods retailer says Edensoy outsells San-J by two to one.<br />

(Note: San-J imports “To-Neu Natural Soy Beverage” made<br />

in Japan by Kibun). Teenagers buy the carob Edensoy along<br />

with popcorn in the store, <strong>and</strong> use it as a s<strong>of</strong>t drink. But most<br />

retailers say the Eden package [st<strong>and</strong>-up foil retort pouch]<br />

is a disaster; it is impossible to open without scissors, then<br />

if you squeeze, it sometimes spills out. San-J [in a Tetra<br />

Brik carton] is convenient but the taste is poor <strong>and</strong> the<br />

front graphics are confusing–too many words <strong>and</strong> images.<br />

According to Shurtleff, both are inferior products compared<br />

to Japan’s best.<br />

22. Concerning Edensoy at the NNFA show in Denver,<br />

Colorado: Mike Potter says “it went over great.” He sold two<br />

container loads right away. People liked the package <strong>and</strong> the<br />

taste. About 4,000 people sampled it <strong>and</strong> were “generally<br />

amazed.” The results were as good as they could want; it<br />

generated interest <strong>and</strong> excitement. Now they are setting up<br />

the distribution system. Address: 100 Heath Rd., Colrain,<br />

Massachusetts 01340. Phone: 413-624-5591.<br />

975. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1983. The book <strong>of</strong><br />

miso. 2nd ed. Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press. 278 p.<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 316<br />

Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. Sept. 28 cm. [223<br />

ref]<br />

• Summary: Contents: What is miso? Preface to the second<br />

edition. Preface to the fi rst edition. Acknowledgments.<br />

Part I. Miso: Savory, High Protein Seasoning. 1. Soybeans,<br />

protein <strong>and</strong> world hunger. 2. Miso as a food. 3. The miracle<br />

<strong>of</strong> fermentation. 4. The varieties <strong>of</strong> miso: Regular Miso:<br />

Rice miso (red / aka, light-yellow / shinshu, mellow red<br />

/ amakuchi akamiso, mellow beige / amakuchi tanshoku,<br />

mellow white / shiro koji, sweet red / edo or edo ama-miso,<br />

sweet white / Kyoto shiro miso), barley miso (karakuchi<br />

mugi, mellow barley / amakuchi mugi), soybean miso /<br />

mamé miso (Hatcho miso, soybean miso / mame miso,<br />

tamari miso). Special Miso: Finger lickin’ miso / Namemiso<br />

(Kinzanji miso, moromi miso, hishio, namémiso, natto miso,<br />

goto miso), sweet simmered miso / nerimiso. Modern Miso:<br />

Akadashi miso, dehydrated or freeze-dried miso, low-salt /<br />

high-protein miso.<br />

Part II. Cooking with Miso (400 recipes). 5. Getting<br />

started. 6. Recipes from East <strong>and</strong> West. Part III. The<br />

Preparation <strong>of</strong> Miso. 7. Making miso at home <strong>and</strong> in<br />

communities. 8. Japanese farmhouse miso. 9. The traditional<br />

miso shop. 10. The modern miso factory. Appendixes:<br />

A. A history <strong>of</strong> miso <strong>and</strong> soybean chiang. B. Other East<br />

Asian misos: Chinese chiang, Korean jang <strong>and</strong> Indonesian<br />

Taucho. C. The microbiology <strong>and</strong> biochemistry <strong>of</strong> miso<br />

fermentation. D. Miso manufacturers in the West. E. People<br />

<strong>and</strong> institutions connected with miso. F. Miso with seafoods,<br />

chicken, <strong>and</strong> meat. G. Measures, weights, <strong>and</strong> equivalents.<br />

H. So you want to study miso in Japan? I. Miso additives.<br />

Bibliography [223 references]. Glossary. About the authors<br />

(autobiographical). The Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>.<br />

In May 1993 a new printing <strong>of</strong> this book appeared,<br />

containing many small changes made by the authors.<br />

Address: Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette,<br />

California 94549. Phone: 415-283-2991.<br />

976. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1983. Appendix A: A<br />

history <strong>of</strong> miso <strong>and</strong> soybean chiang [jiang] (Document part).<br />

In: William Shurtleff <strong>and</strong> Akiko Aoyagi. 1983. The Book <strong>of</strong><br />

Miso. 2nd ed. Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press. 278 p.<br />

See p. 214-41. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi. [223 ref]<br />

• Summary: Contents: Introduction: Etymology. Soybean<br />

chiang in China: Early Chinese non-soybean chiang,<br />

600-1899. Soybean chiang in Korea <strong>and</strong> Southeast Asia:<br />

Dissemination <strong>of</strong> chiang from China, Korea, Indonesia,<br />

Vietnam, other Southeast Asia.<br />

<strong>History</strong> <strong>of</strong> miso in Japan: Introduction, early nonsoybean<br />

hishios (before AD 700), the Nara period (AD<br />

710-784), the Heian period (AD 794-1160), the Kamakura<br />

period (1185-1333). The Muromachi period (1336-1568), the<br />

Edo or Tokugawa period (1603-1867). A brief overview <strong>of</strong><br />

origins. the Meiji <strong>and</strong> pre-war periods (1867-1939), World<br />

War II <strong>and</strong> the postwar period: Modern times (1940-1983).

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