History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

Asana is the 9th generation yuba maker. “Yubahan started
making yuba in 1716, but all family records were destroyed
in the huge fi re of 1864 that destroyed much of the city.”
Takasebune (p. 98-100) specializes in tempura, with a
tempura dinner (tenpura teishoku) including a “generous
bowl of miso soup.”
Tamatomi (p. 116-17) offers teppin-age (a fry it yourself
tempura meal) and oden stew (with tofu).
Okutan (p. 120-23), inside the north gate of famous
Nanzen-ji temple, is famous for its tofu cookery. It has
served yudofu (fresh tofu simmered in a big ceramic pot
over a charcoal fi re, with a shoyu dipping sauce) for 12
generations and 300 years. Side dishes include vegetable
tempura and tofu dengaku.
Nakamura-ro (p. 136-38) is famous for its tofu dengaku
(with miso).
Bunnosuke-jaya (p. 142-44) specializes in amazake.
Ikkyû-an (Ikkyu-an, p. 145-47) serves fucha ryori
(Chinese-style vegetarian temple food, including sesame
tofu, tofu dengaku. It is named after the famous Zen monk
and priest Ikkyû Sôjun {Ikkyu Sojun}).
Takocho (p. 158), 100 years old with 15 seats at the
counter, features oden stew with tofu.
Ichiwa (p. 178-80) which makes rice cakes (mochi) and
abura mochi (cakes of glutinous rice fl our dough that are
charcoal grilled on green bamboo skewers then dipped into a
sweet miso sauce).
Isoda (p. 181-83, 41 Shimomonzen-cho, Murasakino,
Kita-ku, southeast of Daitoku-ji. Phone: 075-491-7617) is
said to be the best and oldest maker of Daitokuji natto in
Kyoto; their fermented black soybeans are sold in a small
wooden box. After Daitoku-ji “was destroyed in the Onin
Wars (1467-77), an eccentric Zen priest named Ikkyû
supervised the reconstruction of the temple and became its
47th (and most celebrated) abbot. According to legend it
was Ikkyu who introduced the Chinese Buddhist recipe for
this compact, high-protein treat” for mendicant Zen monks.
The original recipe, which is still used at Isoda, is described.
Because warm weather and natural sunlight are necessary,
Daitoku-ji natto can only be made during the summer
months, most often in August after the rainy season has
abated. Even Sen no Rikyu, the famous Japanese tea master,
is said to have been an ardent fan of the salty morsels–which
are still served with ceremonial tea. Chûgo Isoda, the present
owner, is a 17th generation maker of Daitokuji natto. He
and his wife work together during the hot summer making
the fermented black soybeans. A full-page photo shows Mr.
Isoda mixing a shallow tub of the dark fermenting beans.
Daitoku-ji natto are also mentioned on page 49.
Nishiki (p. 197-99) is famous for its kaiseki ryori.
“Every month the ingredients are completely changed to
match the season.” One dish is karashi-dôfu (“mustard
tofu”).
Sagano (p. 201-02) serves simmering tofu (yudôfu) in
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 374
the bamboo forest just south of Tenryu-ji temple.
The excellent “Glossary” (p. 230-32) includes entries
for: Amazake, fu (wheat gluten), kaiseki, miso, mochi, nattô
(fermented soybeans), oden, o-hagi, shôjin ryôri, sukiyaki,
tofu, yuba, yûdofu. Address: Kyoto, Japan.
1190. Hesseltine, C.W.; Wang, H.L. 1986. Indigenous
fermented foods of non-Western origin. Mycologia Memoir
No. 11. 351 p. Berlin and Stuttgart: J. Cramer. Published for
the New York Botanical Garden in Collaboration with The
Mycological Society of America. Illust. Index. 24 cm.
• Summary: Contains 18 chapters by various authors. Each
chapter that mentions soy is cited separately. Address:
NRRC, Peoria, Illinois.
1191. Hesseltine, C.W. 1986. Microorganisms involved
in food fermentations in tropical Asia. In: Susono Saono
and F.G. Winarno, eds. 1986. Proceedings of International
Symposium on Microbiological Aspects of Food Storage,
Processing and Fermentation in Tropical Asia. x + 344 p.
See p. 189-204. Held 10-13 Dec. 1979 at Cisaru, Bogor,
Indonesia. Illust. 24 cm. [18 ref]
• Summary: Three pioneers of the taxonomy of molds
used in fermented foods were Drs. R. Nakazawa, K.
Saito, and C. Thom. Fermentations can be classifi ed as
Homofermentations (only one species of microorganism
is necessary to produce the product; e.g. natto, onchom,
tempeh, fermented tofu), Heterofermentations (more
than one is required; e.g. Chinese yeast, or ragi),
Homomultifermentations (two or more strains of the same
species are used together; e.g. miso, shoyu, soy yogurt).
Tables show: (1) Representative strains of cultures
in Oriental food fermentations: Miso–Aspergillus oryzae,
A. sojae, Saccharomyces rouxii, Pediococcus halophilus.
Tempeh–Rhizopus oligosporus. Sufu–Actinomucor elegans,
Mucor dispersus. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois.
1192. Hesseltine, C.W.; Wang, Hwa L. 1986. Food
fermentation research and development. Mycologia Memoir
No. 11. p. 9-22. Chap. 1. (C.W. Hesseltine and Hwa L. Wang,
eds. Indigenous Fermented Food of Non-Western Origin.
Berlin & Stuttgart: J. Cramer). [13 ref]
• Summary: The following fermented soyfoods are
discussed: Miso, shoyu, natto, hamanatto, sufu, tamari,
ontjom, tempeh. Address: USDA/NRRC, 1815 N. University
St., Peoria, Illinois 61604.
1193. Kondo, Sonoko; Stoumen, Lou. 1986. The poetical
pursuit of food: Japanese recipes for American cooks. New
York, NY: Clarkson N. Potter. 296 p. Illust. by Etienne
Delessert. Index. 25 cm.
• Summary: A very artistic, attractive, and authentic book
with superb (imaginative and lyrical) illustrations. The
section titled “Staple foods you will need” (p. 17-20)