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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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There are presently an estimated 5,000 to 10,000 macrobiotic<br />

people in Croatia. The major activity is in Zagreb. Croatia<br />

has most <strong>of</strong> the money <strong>and</strong> industrial productivity in<br />

Yugoslavia <strong>and</strong> that is a major reason that Croatians want<br />

independence. The Serbians are a relatively poor majority.<br />

There are two commercial <strong>and</strong> at least three home-based<br />

soyfoods manufacturers in former Yugoslavia. The best<br />

contact is Ivan Jugovac (about 40 years old), owner <strong>of</strong> Anyo<br />

located at Skolska Ulica 43A, 51215 Kastav (near Rijeka),<br />

Croatia, Yugoslavia. Ivan knows the names <strong>of</strong> the other<br />

soyfoods companies in Yugoslavia <strong>and</strong> is part <strong>of</strong> a looselyknit<br />

soycrafters network there. Anyo, which started about 2-3<br />

years ago, makes 250-300 kg/week <strong>of</strong> t<strong>of</strong>u (100 kg/day in 4<br />

or 5 batches) <strong>and</strong> 150-200 kg/week <strong>of</strong> seitan. From the t<strong>of</strong>u<br />

they also make smoked t<strong>of</strong>u, grilled t<strong>of</strong>u, deep-fried t<strong>of</strong>u,<br />

<strong>and</strong> t<strong>of</strong>u spread (with okara). The t<strong>of</strong>u is made in a 100-liter<br />

steam jacketed kettle <strong>and</strong> the nigari is imported from Japan.<br />

Their soybeans (which are not organically grown) come from<br />

Becej (pronounced BECH-ay) in Serbia, Yugoslavia. The<br />

business is doing well. Ivan makes natto for his personal use.<br />

He wants to start making miso <strong>and</strong> amazake commercially,<br />

<strong>and</strong> is looking for sources <strong>of</strong> koji <strong>and</strong> koji starter.<br />

A second soyfoods shop in Belgrade, Serbia (name,<br />

address, <strong>and</strong> contact person unknown) makes t<strong>of</strong>u, seitan,<br />

<strong>and</strong> tempeh on about the same scale as Anyo. It probably<br />

started at about the same time as Anyo. There are 1-2 small<br />

t<strong>of</strong>u shops in Zagreb, <strong>and</strong> one in Novi Sad, Serbia; in each,<br />

the t<strong>of</strong>u is made in a home kitchen. In Slovenia, a t<strong>of</strong>u<br />

company that will be the largest in Yugoslavia is nearly ready<br />

to begin operation in Slovenia, but the current civil war has<br />

delayed their opening. They plan to make 100 kg/day <strong>of</strong> t<strong>of</strong>u.<br />

The man who knows the most about soyfoods in<br />

Yugoslavia is Zlatko Pejic, a peace activist who is president<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Society for the Improvement <strong>of</strong> the Quality <strong>of</strong> Life <strong>and</strong><br />

head <strong>of</strong> the macrobiotic community in Zagreb. His wife is a<br />

cooking teacher. He invited Bill to Yugoslavia, has been to<br />

the USA, <strong>and</strong> lectures throughout Yugoslavia. He has visited<br />

most <strong>of</strong> the soyfoods companies in Yugoslavia, has a fax, <strong>and</strong><br />

like Ivan speaks pretty good English.<br />

Basically all <strong>of</strong> the interest in soyfoods in Yugoslavia<br />

grew out <strong>of</strong> macrobiotics. Several <strong>of</strong> the people who started<br />

companies attended the Kushi Institute in London. Two years<br />

ago, others attended the International Macrobiotic Institute<br />

in Kiental, Switzerl<strong>and</strong>. In both places there are classes in<br />

soyfoods production (miso, tempeh, t<strong>of</strong>u, etc.) taught by<br />

various macrobiotic teachers such as Roberto Marrocchesi.<br />

Most companies have some books from Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>.<br />

Bill is still actively affi liated with The Bridge in Connecticut<br />

<strong>and</strong> is a teacher <strong>of</strong> macrobiotics. Address: North Road,<br />

Bantam, Connecticut 06750. Phone: 203-567-0554.<br />

1382. SoyaScan Notes.1991. The concepts <strong>of</strong> alkaline<br />

(arukari-sei) <strong>and</strong> acidic (sansei) foods in Japan (Overview).<br />

Sept. 20. Compiled by William Shurtleff <strong>of</strong> Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>.<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 427<br />

• Summary: It is common knowledge among most typical<br />

Japanese that foods can generally be classifi ed along a<br />

continuum that ranges from alkaline at one end to neutral<br />

(chusei) in the middle, to acidic at the other end. Alkaline<br />

foods (those with an alkaline ash) are generally considered<br />

to promote <strong>and</strong> protect health. It is widely believed that one<br />

should try to keep one’s blood a little on the alkaline side<br />

<strong>of</strong> neutral. According to E.C. Grey’s The Food <strong>of</strong> Japan<br />

(League <strong>of</strong> Nations, 1928) <strong>and</strong> Inshoku Jiten (Encyclopedia<br />

<strong>of</strong> food <strong>and</strong> drink; Motoyama 1958; see arukari) <strong>and</strong> to<br />

discussions with numerous Japanese, well-known alkaline<br />

foods are as follows. Each food is followed by an “alkaline<br />

value” in parentheses taken from Grey (1928, p. 56-111; the<br />

“alkalinity is due to lime <strong>and</strong> magnesia”): sea vegetables<br />

including kombu (88.9), wakame (55.8), nori (35.3); black<br />

soybeans (40.2), yellow soybeans (38.1), soyfoods (<strong>and</strong><br />

Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>) including yuba (25.6), kinako roasted soy<br />

fl our (25.2), Hamana natto (Hamanatto 24.8), natto (19.3),<br />

green soybeans (ao-daizu, dry; 17.8), Misozuke (vegetables<br />

preserved in miso, 16.3), shoyu (14.3); red miso (11.5), okara<br />

(9.0), white miso (8.1), edamamé (green vegetable soybeans,<br />

5.8), aburage deep-fried t<strong>of</strong>u pouched (6.7), soymilk (3.8),<br />

t<strong>of</strong>u (1.1), shiitake mushrooms (41.0), azuki beans (27.0),<br />

umeboshi salt plums (3.1), dried fruits including dried fi g<br />

(46.8), dried persimmon (21.3), raisins (15.3), cheese (18.0),<br />

most fresh fruits including yuzu (citron, 11.7), buckwheat<br />

(7.0), fi g (6.3), lemon (5.9), banana (4.6), mikan (m<strong>and</strong>arin<br />

orange, 4.0); root vegetables including potatoes (13.9),<br />

tororo imo (11.5), daikon radish (5.0); most green vegetables<br />

such as komatsuna cabbage (11.3), or daikon leaves (10.9),<br />

pickled vegetables such as takuan (14.6). Alkaline beverages<br />

or liquids include tea, c<strong>of</strong>fee, dairy milk (2.6), condensed<br />

milk (8.0), powdered milk (26.6), grape wines, <strong>and</strong> vinegar.<br />

Acidic foods, which the Japanese believe should be<br />

used in moderation, include: white sugar (0), mizuame [rice<br />

syrup] (0), chocolate (3.0) <strong>and</strong> other sweet foods, eggs (2.8),<br />

fl esh foods including chicken (5.2), pork (5.2), beef (5.1),<br />

fresh fi sh (avg. 5.3), alcoholic beverages including amazake<br />

(0), beer (0), sake (0); animal fats including butter (1.6),<br />

margarine (0.9).<br />

Many Japanese fi nd that acidic foods, when consumed in<br />

excess, give them acid indigestion. Neutral foods include rice<br />

(0.5-2.9), wheat (3.5-6.6), barley (2.7-4.6), <strong>and</strong> wheat gluten<br />

(1.0).<br />

Note that this classifi cation system is unrelated to the<br />

yin-yang continuum used by macrobiotics; most Japanese are<br />

unaware <strong>of</strong> macrobiotics. The latter, for example, considers<br />

meat to be yang (alkaline), whereas wines, fruits, <strong>and</strong> milk<br />

are yin (acidic).<br />

1383. Takahama, Akihiro; Kuze, Jiro; Okano, Satoko;<br />

Akiyama, Kyoko; Nakane, Toshio; Takahashi, Hiroshi;<br />

Kobayashi, Takeshi. 1991. [Production <strong>of</strong> lactosucrose<br />

by Bacillus natto levansucrase <strong>and</strong> some properties <strong>of</strong>

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