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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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There are probably very few U.S. soyfood<br />

manufacturers that have enough volume that they need to<br />

contract directly with farmers. But those that are big or have<br />

a large need for organic soybeans must contract directly with<br />

farmers to assure themselves an adequate supply <strong>of</strong> the type<br />

<strong>of</strong> soybeans they want.<br />

Ron would be very interested to know more about how<br />

the composition <strong>of</strong> a soybean affects its fl avor. He has a good<br />

deal <strong>of</strong> respect for Pioneer Hi-Bred Seed Co. He thinks they<br />

have good seeds, a good staff <strong>and</strong> research department, <strong>and</strong><br />

a good distribution system. And they have generally ben<br />

reliable. They have helped Ron fi nd soybeans for certain<br />

growing areas that they sell. He likes the fact that they are<br />

national, spanning the breadth <strong>and</strong> width <strong>of</strong> the U.S. soybean<br />

growing area, <strong>and</strong> selling all maturity groups. However,<br />

3-4 years ago, Pioneer Seed Co. got into the cultivation,<br />

cleaning, bagging, <strong>and</strong> export <strong>of</strong> organic soybeans–with their<br />

Better Life program (no pesticides or herbicides, but they<br />

can use chemical fertilizers). So they began to compete with<br />

Ron for organic farmers to grow their seeds, <strong>and</strong> they pay the<br />

farmers more than Ron does.<br />

Pioneer has a pretty extensive base <strong>of</strong> soybean<br />

customers in Japan for regular soybeans, Better Life<br />

soybeans, natto beans, large-seeded soybeans, <strong>and</strong> organic<br />

soybeans. Their Specialty Crops Division has penetrated<br />

the Japanese market in many areas. Their employees travel<br />

frequently to Japan, they speak Japanese, they have an <strong>of</strong>fi ce<br />

there, <strong>and</strong> they’re plugged in. They study those industries in<br />

Japan, fi nd out what they want, then they come back <strong>and</strong> try<br />

to breed that into a soybean. As far as Ron can tell, Pioneer<br />

is the leader in breeding soybeans for food uses in terms <strong>of</strong><br />

both volume <strong>and</strong> specifi c varieties.<br />

Another company doing research in this area is Jacob<br />

Hartz Seed Co. in Arkansas. They are working on some<br />

large-seeded soybeans but they are having a lot <strong>of</strong> trouble.<br />

Ron has a low opinion <strong>of</strong> the soybeans Hartz breeds for<br />

making natto; he studied that market intensively.<br />

There has been a dem<strong>and</strong> from Japan to supply some<br />

organic beans, so many <strong>of</strong> the U.S. companies that supply<br />

soybeans to Japan have begun small organic programs<br />

(not because they want to–they hate it), just to satisfy their<br />

Japanese customers. Even though Mitsui or Mitsubishi or<br />

Marubeni don’t want a lot <strong>of</strong> organic soybeans, they want<br />

enough in a tight market to drive the price way up. It was<br />

because <strong>of</strong> the Japanese dem<strong>and</strong> plus a small soybean crop<br />

that organic soybean prices were so high in 1994. Country<br />

Life went out <strong>of</strong> business, with unpaid debts <strong>of</strong> $400,000<br />

to $500,000. Some <strong>of</strong> the farmers formed cooperative<br />

marketing groups; they grow varieties desired by the<br />

Japanese, <strong>and</strong> pool their resources in cleaning <strong>and</strong> bagging,<br />

so they can export containers to Japan <strong>and</strong> eliminate U.S.<br />

middlemen or soybean brokers. Ron feels the price for<br />

organic soybeans will stabilize at about $10-$12 per bushel.<br />

If Ron worked closely with a soybean breeder <strong>and</strong><br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 456<br />

seed company, he would want the right for the farmers with<br />

whom he contracts to be able to buy the seed from the seed<br />

company. His company is unique in having a large number<br />

<strong>of</strong> cooperating organic growers, <strong>and</strong> that gives ASP the<br />

lowest price <strong>and</strong> highest quality. If Ron contacts the growers<br />

early <strong>and</strong> tells them what ASP will pay per bushel <strong>of</strong> organic<br />

beans, that becomes the st<strong>and</strong>ard base contract price for<br />

other companies too. Word travels fast. Nichii buys directly<br />

from soybean farmers, but Ron thinks Vitasoy buys from a<br />

middleman (a soybean broker or trading company such as<br />

Pacifi c Soybean <strong>and</strong> Grain). Some soyfoods manufacturers<br />

buy through soybean brokers–the biggest <strong>of</strong> which are<br />

Pacifi c Soybean <strong>and</strong> Grain, American Health <strong>and</strong> Nutrition,<br />

<strong>and</strong> Purity Foods. Domestic soyfoods manufacturers get<br />

deluged with calls from farmers who want to grow soybeans<br />

just for them at a premium price <strong>and</strong> sell direct without a<br />

middleman. The middlemen or soybean brokers tend to<br />

survive on export business.<br />

This is a very complicated issue–particularly seen from<br />

the viewpoint <strong>of</strong> a seed company that wants to breed better<br />

soybeans for food uses. Address: President, American Soy<br />

Products, 1474 N. Woodl<strong>and</strong> Dr., Saline, Michigan 48176.<br />

Phone: 313-429-2310.<br />

1481. Davi, K. Kundala; Devi, G. Ibemhal; Singh, -.<br />

1994. 10. Bacterial fl ora in hawaijar (Fermented soybean).<br />

Proceedings <strong>of</strong> the Indian Science Congress 81(Part IV):69.<br />

*<br />

• Summary: “Hawaijar, the fermented form <strong>of</strong> soybean is<br />

a favourite <strong>and</strong> popular food item in Manipur.” Address: 1.<br />

Aerobiology, Microbiology <strong>and</strong> Plant Pathology Lab., Dep.<br />

<strong>of</strong> Life Sciences, Manipur Univ., Canchipur 795 003, India.<br />

1482. Esaki, H.; Onozaki, H.; Osawa, T. 1994. Antioxidative<br />

activity <strong>of</strong> fermented soybean products. In: M.T. Huang,<br />

ed. 1994. Food Phytochemicals for Cancer Prevention I,<br />

Fruits <strong>and</strong> Vegetables. Washington, DC: American Chemical<br />

Society. SCS Symposium series 546-547. See p. 353-60.<br />

Index. 24 cm. [Jap]*<br />

• Summary: “Developed from a symposium sponsored<br />

by the Division <strong>of</strong> Agricultural <strong>and</strong> Food Chemistry at the<br />

204th National Meeting <strong>of</strong> the American Chemical Society,<br />

Washington, D.C., August 23-28, 1992.” Two volumes.<br />

1483. Sarkar, P.K.; Tamang, J.P.; Cook, P.E.; Owens, J.D.<br />

1994. Kinema–a traditional soybean fermented food:<br />

Proximate composition <strong>and</strong> micr<strong>of</strong>l ora. Food Microbiology<br />

11:47-55. [31 ref]<br />

• Summary: Kinema (the name is Nepali) serves as a<br />

meat substitute for the majority <strong>of</strong> people in the eastern<br />

Himalayas. The average moisture content <strong>of</strong> kinema was<br />

62%. On a dry weight basis, kinema contained about 48%<br />

protein, 28% carbohydrate, 17% fat, <strong>and</strong> 7% ash. The energy<br />

value <strong>of</strong> 2.0 MJ/100 gm (MJ = mega-joules).

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