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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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The pH <strong>of</strong> kinema is distinctly alkaline (average 7.89),<br />

whereas the pH <strong>of</strong> raw soybeans is neutral to slightly acidic<br />

(average 6.75). The free fatty acid content <strong>of</strong> kinema was<br />

about 33 times higher than that <strong>of</strong> raw soybeans. “A total<br />

<strong>of</strong> 502 bacterial strains representing Bacillus subtilis <strong>and</strong><br />

Enterococcus facium <strong>and</strong> 198 yeast strains representing<br />

C<strong>and</strong>ida parapsilosis <strong>and</strong> Geotrichum c<strong>and</strong>idum were<br />

isolated from 50 samples <strong>of</strong> kinema.”<br />

Kinema is now popular among the Lepchas who call it<br />

satlyangser <strong>and</strong> among the Bhutias who call it bari.<br />

Note: This is the earliest document seen (Feb. <strong>2012</strong>)<br />

which states that “satlyangser” is the Lepcha name for<br />

Nepalese kinema, or that “bari” is the Bhutia name for<br />

Nepalese kinema, a close relative <strong>of</strong> Japanese natto. Address:<br />

1-2. Microbiology Lab., Centre for Life Science, Univ. <strong>of</strong><br />

North Bengal, Siluria 734 430, District <strong>of</strong> Darjeeling, West<br />

Bengal, India; 3-4. Food Microbial Interactions Lab., Dep.<br />

<strong>of</strong> Food Science <strong>and</strong> Technology, Univ. <strong>of</strong> Reading, P.O. Box<br />

226, Reading RG6 2AP, UK.<br />

1484. Sarkar, P.K.; Tamang, J.P. 1994. The infl uence <strong>of</strong><br />

process variables <strong>and</strong> inoculum composition on the sensory<br />

quality <strong>of</strong> kinema. Food Microbiology 11:317-25. [24 ref]<br />

• Summary: Kinema, a traditional fermented food, is made<br />

at home in a crude manner. The natural fermentation process<br />

usually results in an acceptable product, but inconsistencies<br />

<strong>and</strong> spoilage <strong>of</strong>ten occur. In order to st<strong>and</strong>ardize quality,<br />

the traditional process variables were optimized by sensory<br />

evaluation. Microorganisms: A pure culture <strong>of</strong> Bacillus<br />

subtilis. Wrapping material: A thinly perforated polyethylene<br />

bag. Cooking time <strong>and</strong> pressure: 10-15 minutes in 7 kg<br />

per square cm steam pressure. Fermentation time <strong>and</strong><br />

temperature: 48 hours at 37ºC.<br />

Preference trials by consumers showed that kinema<br />

produced under the above optimum conditions was more<br />

acceptable than market samples with the highest scores.<br />

Address: Microbiology Lab., Dep. <strong>of</strong> Botany, Univ. <strong>of</strong> North<br />

Bengal, Siliguri-734 430, Darjeeling District, West Bengal,<br />

India.<br />

1485. Karki, Tika. 1994. Food processing industries in<br />

Nepal. In: K. Komogata, T. Yoshida, T. Nakase, <strong>and</strong> H.<br />

Osada, eds. 1994. Proceedings <strong>of</strong> the International Workshop<br />

on Application <strong>and</strong> Control <strong>of</strong> Microorganisms in Asia.<br />

Japan: The Institute <strong>of</strong> Physical <strong>and</strong> Chemical Research,<br />

<strong>and</strong> Japan International Science <strong>and</strong> Technology Exchange<br />

Centre. See p. 71-81. *<br />

Address: Chief, Food Research Offi ce, CFRL, Kathm<strong>and</strong>u,<br />

Nepal.<br />

1486. Nagano Chushin Agricultural Experiment Station.<br />

1994. Summary <strong>of</strong> soybean breeding activities in Nagano.<br />

Nagano prefecture, Japan. 6 p. [Eng]<br />

• Summary: Page 3 contains an excellent map titled<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 457<br />

“Soybean Research Network in Japan.” It lists <strong>and</strong> shows<br />

each <strong>of</strong> the 6 soybean breeding centers, the 7 experiment<br />

stations for testing specifi c characteristics, <strong>and</strong> the 15<br />

experiment stations for testing local adaptability. Graphs<br />

show precipitation <strong>and</strong> average air temperature year-round at<br />

5 <strong>of</strong> the main stations. The chief soybean breeder is Nobuo<br />

Takahashi. This station has developed <strong>and</strong> released 16<br />

registered <strong>and</strong> 6 non-registered soybean varieties between<br />

1962 <strong>and</strong> 1991; the most famous are Enrei (released in<br />

1971), Tanrei (1978), Tamahomare (1980), Tachinagaha<br />

(1986), Ootsuru (1988), Ayahikari (1991).<br />

Breeding objectives: 1. High yielding ability: more<br />

than 4.5 tonnes/ha in experimental fi elds. 2. Late planting<br />

adaptability: more than 3.0 tonnes/ha after winter wheat. 3.<br />

Suitability for mechanical harvesting: lodging resistance,<br />

non-shattering, lowest pod weight. 4. Resistance to diseases<br />

<strong>and</strong> nematodes: Soybean mosaic virus, soybean cyst<br />

nematode, black root rot, purple seed stain. 5. Seed quality:<br />

large seeds (more than 30 gm per 100 seeds), small seeds<br />

for natto (less than 10 gm per 100 seeds), appearance (hilum<br />

color, seed coat cracking, etc.), high protein (more than<br />

45%), suitability for food processing. 6. Soybean varieties<br />

for special [food] use: Black soybean for kuromame, green<br />

soybean for kinako, large <strong>and</strong> fl at soybean for hitashimame.<br />

Address: Shiojiri, Nagano prefecture, Japan.<br />

1487. Shannon, Dennis A.; Kalala, M. Mwamba. 1994.<br />

Adoption <strong>of</strong> soybean in sub-Saharan Africa: A comparative<br />

analysis <strong>of</strong> production <strong>and</strong> utilization in Zaire <strong>and</strong> Nigeria.<br />

Agricultural Systems 46(4):369-84. [18 ref]<br />

• Summary: A survey was conducted <strong>of</strong> soybean production<br />

<strong>and</strong> utilization among 115 soybean farmers in G<strong>and</strong>ajika,<br />

Eastern Kasai Region, Zaire. Average production per<br />

farmer in the previous season was 73 kg, which was either<br />

consumed within the household or sold. Much <strong>of</strong> the soybean<br />

production (42.6%) was consumed by humans, primarily<br />

as roasted whole soybeans (81%) [soynuts], or the full-fat<br />

fl our was used as an additive to a maize porridge (80%),<br />

or to nshima [pronounced “SHEE-muh, also called bidia;<br />

a popular thick non-fermented mush or paste made from<br />

maize <strong>and</strong> cassava fl our, that is <strong>of</strong>ten eaten with the fi ngers]<br />

(60%), or as a substitute for milk in tea or c<strong>of</strong>fee (35%), or<br />

mixed with the vegetable eaten with nshima. Farmers ranked<br />

soybean second among grain legumes in area cultivated <strong>and</strong><br />

fourth for total sales. Most farmers considered marketing the<br />

principal constraint to increased production.<br />

A bar chart (p. 372-73) shows that 3 <strong>of</strong> the farmers<br />

surveyed fi rst began cultivating soybeans during the 1950s.<br />

Most (72%) began growing soybeans between 1984 <strong>and</strong> the<br />

date <strong>of</strong> the survey, April 1987. The increase in new soybean<br />

farmers since 1984 seems to be related to increased seed<br />

multiplication at the agricultural experiment station. The<br />

increase in new soybean farmers in the late 1970s might be<br />

attributed to the release <strong>of</strong> variety SJ 127, which was adapted

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