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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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Bacillus subtilis) to try to make soy tempeh at three different<br />

fermentation temperatures (29ºC, 34ºC, <strong>and</strong> 41ºC). At the<br />

lower two temperatures, the tempeh came out very nicely,<br />

but at the higher temperature the Bacillus predominated.<br />

Manfred has not yet measured the vitamin B-12 content<br />

<strong>of</strong> the three types <strong>of</strong> tempeh. One basic question arises: If<br />

such an inoculum is used <strong>and</strong> grown on tempeh at 32-34ºC,<br />

will the Bacillus eventually mutate so they grow well at the<br />

lower temperature <strong>and</strong> take over the fermentation, ruining<br />

the tempeh? For a case study <strong>of</strong> this type <strong>of</strong> problem, see<br />

the following article, which describes a terrible problem<br />

experienced by a tempeh manufacturer in 1982. Shurtleff,<br />

William; McBride, G.; Robertson, G.V.J.; Burgeson, T. 1982.<br />

“Dealing with tempeh contamination.” Soyfoods. Winter. p.<br />

29-32. Address: Pr<strong>of</strong>essor, Computer Sciences, 111 Overlook<br />

Dr., Santa Cruz, California 95060. Phone: 831-425-0461 or<br />

manfred@cs.ucsc.edu.<br />

1644. Iijima, Akihiko; Sasaki, Hitoshi; Wakamatsu,<br />

Hiroyuki; Watanabe, Sugio; Maeda, Yoshimi. 1999.<br />

[Microcalorimetric analysis <strong>of</strong> fermentation <strong>of</strong> natto, a<br />

traditional Japanese food]. Nippon Shokuhin Kagaku Kogaku<br />

Kaishi (J. <strong>of</strong> the Japanese Society for Food Science <strong>and</strong><br />

Technology) 46(5):279-84. [13 ref. Jap; eng]<br />

Address: 1-3, 5. Iwaki Meisei Univ., 5-5-1 Chuohdai-iino,<br />

Iwaki-shi, Fukushima 970-8551.<br />

1645. Matsumoto, Isao; Akimoto, Takashi; Imai, Seiichi.<br />

1999. [Effect <strong>of</strong> soybean cooking condition on the quality<br />

<strong>of</strong> natto]. Nippon Shokuhin Kagaku Kogaku Kaishi (J. <strong>of</strong><br />

the Japanese Society for Food Science <strong>and</strong> Technology)<br />

46(5):338-43. [19 ref. Jap; eng]<br />

• Summary: <strong>Natto</strong> was prepared from soybeans cooked<br />

under a steam pressure <strong>of</strong> 1.5 kg per square cm. for various<br />

time periods ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, <strong>and</strong> sensory<br />

evaluation, hardness, enzyme activities, components <strong>and</strong><br />

stringiness <strong>of</strong> viscous substances <strong>of</strong> natto samples were<br />

investigated. From the results <strong>of</strong> sensory evaluation <strong>of</strong> natto<br />

samples, it was concluded that the optimum cooking time<br />

under this condition was 30-40 minutes. Address: Niigata<br />

Food Research Institute, 2-25 Shinei-cho, Kamo-shi, Niigata<br />

959-13, Japan.<br />

1646. Schinner, Miyoko Nishimoto. 1999. Japanese cooking:<br />

Contemporary & traditional–Simple, delicious, <strong>and</strong> vegan.<br />

Summertown, Tennessee: Book Publishing Co. 176 p. Illust.<br />

Index. 21 cm.<br />

• Summary: Contents: Introduction (incl. Japanese attitudes<br />

towards nutrition, vegetarianism <strong>and</strong> animal rights, the<br />

recipes, the Japanese meal). Sample menus (by season).<br />

Glossary: Ingredients, kitchen concepts, <strong>and</strong> tools. Rice<br />

dishes. Soups <strong>and</strong> stews. Cooking with t<strong>of</strong>u. Fried dishes.<br />

Salads <strong>and</strong> cold vegetables. Noodles. Meals in a pot. Stewed<br />

<strong>and</strong> braised dishes. Meals in a bowl. Everyday favorites.<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 508<br />

Nouvelle Japanese cuisine.<br />

Terms in the Glossary include: Abura-age, agar agar,<br />

atsu-age, azuki, fu (made from wheat gluten), goma<br />

(sesame seeds), goma-d<strong>of</strong>u (a t<strong>of</strong>u-like cake made from<br />

sesame butter), hijiki, Inari-zushi (sushi), kanten, konbu,<br />

kuzu & kuzu-ko, miso, mochi, natto, nori, okara, sesame<br />

oil (goma abura), shoyu, soba, soy sauce, t<strong>of</strong>u (“Perhaps<br />

the most misunderstood food in Japan... Americans might<br />

call it bl<strong>and</strong>; the Japanese prefer to think <strong>of</strong> it as delicate in<br />

fl avor”), umeboshi, wakame, yaki-d<strong>of</strong>u, yuba.<br />

This vegan cookbook is fi lled with many soy-related<br />

recipes, both traditional <strong>and</strong> new. Examples <strong>of</strong> new: “Fishy<br />

Tempura Tempeh. Crispy Fried Tempeh (Kara-Age).<br />

“Trying to dine out in a strictly vegan fashion in Japan<br />

can present challenges. Although dairy products are not<br />

found in traditional Japanese cuisine, fi sh-based stocks<br />

appear in a range <strong>of</strong> dishes from appetizers to soups to<br />

entrees... My advice to vegan or vegetarian visitors to Japan:<br />

fi nd a temple or restaurant that serves traditional kaiseki-style<br />

shojin-ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cooking)–<strong>and</strong> splurge big<br />

time. You won’t regret it” (p. 10).<br />

On the rear cover is a biographical sketch <strong>of</strong> Miyoko.<br />

“She was born in Yokohama, Japan, <strong>and</strong> graduated from<br />

St. John’s college in Maryl<strong>and</strong>. Her bilingual bicultural<br />

background has endowed her with the creativity <strong>and</strong><br />

originality <strong>of</strong> the West <strong>and</strong> the aesthetic sense <strong>of</strong> the East.”<br />

She has been a vegetarian since age 12. Address: Owner,<br />

Now <strong>and</strong> Zen Bakery <strong>and</strong> Vegetarian Restaurant, San<br />

Francisco.<br />

1647. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1999. The book <strong>of</strong><br />

t<strong>of</strong>u. 2nd ed. Revised. Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press.<br />

336 p. May. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. 28 cm.<br />

[321 ref]<br />

• Summary: This edition contains a completely new<br />

“Appendix B–Directory <strong>of</strong> T<strong>of</strong>u Makers” (p. 313-316,<br />

updated to 1 Aug. 1998). The page “About the Authors”<br />

(autobiographical) has been updated, <strong>and</strong> the original<br />

photograph has been replaced with two more recent ones–<br />

refl ecting the fact that Bill <strong>and</strong> Akiko separated in Nov. 1993<br />

<strong>and</strong> their marriage ended in May 1995.<br />

After the fi rst printing in Oct. 1998, the Preface was<br />

quite extensively revised (but not updated) to include more<br />

about how this book came into being (early dates <strong>and</strong><br />

names), including the important contributions on Jeffrey <strong>and</strong><br />

Gretchen Broadbent, <strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> Nahum <strong>and</strong> Beverly Stiskin.<br />

These Preface changes fi rst appeared in the second printing<br />

<strong>of</strong> May 1999.<br />

On page 336 is “The Best <strong>of</strong> Vegetarian Cooking from<br />

Ten Speed Press” (descriptions <strong>of</strong> eight cookbooks, with<br />

price <strong>and</strong> ISBN). The inside rear cover has been updated,<br />

<strong>and</strong> now includes current information about SoyaScan, the<br />

unique computerized database produced by Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>.<br />

This database now contains more than 55,000 records from

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