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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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<strong>of</strong> cases, viz., <strong>of</strong> marasmus <strong>and</strong> malnutrition, as a substitute<br />

for milk in diarrhea, <strong>and</strong> in intestinal <strong>and</strong> stomach disorders,<br />

<strong>and</strong> in diabetes mellitus.”<br />

Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (July 2008)<br />

that suggests the use <strong>of</strong> a soybean preparation as a milk<br />

substitute for infants.”<br />

Note 3. This is the earliest document seen (Aug. 2003)<br />

concerning the actual feeding <strong>of</strong> soymilk to infants or<br />

children, or concerning a soy-based infant formula. The<br />

author was the world’s fi rst pediatrician to use soybeans in<br />

infant feeding, <strong>and</strong> did the fi rst U.S. studies with soyfoods<br />

<strong>and</strong> human nutrition.<br />

Note 4. This is the earliest English-language document<br />

seen (Oct. 2003) that uses the term “substitute for milk” to<br />

refer to soymilk. Note 5. This is the earliest English-language<br />

document seen (Nov. 2002) that uses the word “malnutrition”<br />

in connection with soyfoods.<br />

The writer had hoped to conduct experiments <strong>and</strong> make<br />

a more complete clinical report but several misfortunes<br />

attended his efforts to secure the beans. “My fi rst crop was<br />

eaten by rats, my second moulded in the pods owing to some<br />

unusually damp weather, <strong>and</strong> insects ate about two-thirds <strong>of</strong><br />

my last crop. Fortunately, the beans may now be obtained<br />

from Messrs. T.W. Wood & Son, Richmond, Virginia.<br />

“So far the gruel has been prepared by soaking the beans<br />

over night, stirring to remove the envelope surrounding<br />

the bean. Three times the amount <strong>of</strong> water is added to the<br />

beans <strong>and</strong> they are boiled until a smooth gruel results. This<br />

is strained if necessary [to make real soymilk]. This has the<br />

odor <strong>and</strong> taste <strong>of</strong> malt, but with the addition <strong>of</strong> a little salt is<br />

well taken, especially after the fi rst bottle or two. The gruel<br />

is retained unusually well <strong>and</strong> seems to be easily digested.<br />

The stools are not more frequent than with other foods. The<br />

stools are light brown in color like those from malted milk.<br />

This soy bean gruel has nearly the same food value as milk<br />

<strong>and</strong> for certain children may need further dilution. About<br />

the same size feedings should be used as if milk were being<br />

given. Five percent sugar may be added to increase the fuel<br />

value.<br />

“I have not used the beans in a suffi ciently large number<br />

<strong>of</strong> cases nor over suffi cient periods <strong>of</strong> time to justify any<br />

further statements at this time, but I do feel that properly<br />

used they will be a most valuable addition to the dietary <strong>of</strong><br />

the sick infant. Grinding them to a bean meal would simplify<br />

matters very much, <strong>and</strong>, if success attends their use, a soy<br />

bean meal could easily be prepared.<br />

“I hope to be able to make a second report at the next<br />

meeting <strong>and</strong> have called your attention to the bean in hope<br />

that other members may try them <strong>and</strong> report at the same<br />

time.”<br />

Note 6. Pediatrician Herman F. Meyer (1960, p. x)<br />

published a long poem by Dr. John Ruhräh titled “A Simple<br />

Saga <strong>of</strong> Infant Feeding,” which described the history <strong>and</strong><br />

present status <strong>of</strong> infant feeding. Meyer described Ruhräh as a<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 57<br />

“philosopher, teacher, poet, pediatrist [pediatrician] <strong>and</strong> able<br />

historian.”<br />

Note 7. This is the earliest English-language document<br />

seen (Oct. 2001) that uses the term “soy bean fl our.”<br />

The following photo <strong>of</strong> Dr. John Ruhräh (1872-1935)<br />

was taken in about 1914. Born in Chillicothe, Ohio, he<br />

was a graduate <strong>of</strong> the College <strong>of</strong> Physicians <strong>and</strong> Surgeons<br />

(Baltimore, 1894), did post-graduate work at Johns Hopkins,<br />

the Pasteur Institute, Paris (1897), <strong>and</strong> in other European<br />

schools (1900-1901), <strong>and</strong> was quarantine physician <strong>of</strong> the<br />

port <strong>of</strong> Baltimore (1898-1900), where he became Pr<strong>of</strong>essor<br />

<strong>of</strong> pediatrics in the University <strong>of</strong> Maryl<strong>and</strong> Medical School<br />

<strong>and</strong> in the College <strong>of</strong> Physicians <strong>and</strong> Surgeons.<br />

His autograph is shown below. Address: M.D.,<br />

Baltimore, Maryl<strong>and</strong>.<br />

82. Carson, John M. 1909. Soya bean <strong>and</strong> products. Special<br />

Consular Report (U.S. Bureau <strong>of</strong> Manufactures, Department<br />

<strong>of</strong> Commerce <strong>and</strong> Labor) No. 41. Part 5. 35 p. Erroneously<br />

numbered Special Consular Reports, Vol. XL.<br />

• Summary: Contents: Introduction. I. Countries <strong>of</strong><br />

production. China: Newchang (Varieties <strong>of</strong> beans <strong>and</strong><br />

amount produced {in centals [hundredweights; 1 cental<br />

= 112 pounds]}, methods <strong>of</strong> cultivating <strong>and</strong> harvesting,<br />

prices <strong>and</strong> exports, shipments to Europe–use by natives),<br />

Dalny (Manufacture <strong>of</strong> bean cake <strong>and</strong> oil, preparing the<br />

cake, expressing the oil <strong>and</strong> wages paid, freight charges to<br />

Dalny, exports, stock on h<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> prices), Chefoo (Beans<br />

imported for cake manufacture, quantity <strong>and</strong> value <strong>of</strong> output,<br />

bean vermicelli made by a peculiar process [from the small<br />

green bean lü tou {mung bean}], preparation <strong>of</strong> beans,<br />

drying <strong>of</strong> product <strong>and</strong> prices [for vermicelli]), Shanghai<br />

(Extent <strong>of</strong> export trade in beans), Shantung (manufacture<br />

<strong>of</strong> bean oil <strong>and</strong> cake, harvesting <strong>and</strong> pressing, shipping <strong>and</strong><br />

prices), Swatow, Tientsin (Exports <strong>of</strong> raw beans, shipments<br />

<strong>of</strong> bean cake, extent <strong>of</strong> trade at Tientsin). Tables (p. 5)<br />

show prices <strong>and</strong> exports <strong>of</strong> soya beans, bean cake <strong>and</strong> bean<br />

oil at Newchang for the years 1905-1908. Japan: Cost <strong>of</strong><br />

production <strong>and</strong> prices (<strong>of</strong> soya beans, quite detailed), imports<br />

<strong>of</strong> beans <strong>and</strong> cakes, use <strong>of</strong> the bean as food (shoyu, miso,<br />

t<strong>of</strong>u, koya-t<strong>of</strong>u, natto, fl our), Kobe (Beans as human food<br />

{eaten boiled with a little soy [sauce], “made into bean curd,<br />

<strong>and</strong> a kind <strong>of</strong> sauce made <strong>of</strong> wheat, beans, <strong>and</strong> salt”}–small<br />

exports {“The total exports <strong>of</strong> beans, pease, <strong>and</strong> pulse [incl.<br />

soy] in 1908 were valued at $25,971, <strong>of</strong> which about $24,000<br />

worth went to Hawaii, the United States, <strong>and</strong> Canada for<br />

use by the Japanese residents in those countries as an article<br />

<strong>of</strong> food”}, manufacture <strong>of</strong> cake), Nagasaki (Production<br />

<strong>of</strong> beans, imports <strong>of</strong> beans–market prices). Shipments<br />

from Vladivostok * [Russia, <strong>of</strong> soybeans probably grown<br />

in Manchuria] (Fluctuations in prices, shipments during<br />

present season, immense shipments planned next season (by<br />

Mitsui)).<br />

“It is the intention <strong>of</strong> Mitsui Bussan Kaisha, the largest

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