Adventure Magazine

adventure 

where actions speak louder than words 

where actions speak louder than words 

ISSUE 237 

APR/MAY 2023 

NZ $11.90 incl. GST 

SURVIVAL

we ARE tramping 

SURVIVAL 

ISSUE 

#237 

Gaz Zeh Yaavor 

One of the slips at Muriwai after Cyclone Gabrielle left my son 

and his family home red stickered. 

Whether it’s a day trip with the family or a multi-day adventure deep into the wilderness, Bivouac has the best 

gear, from the top brands, to keep you safe, comfortable, warm and dry. Our friendly staff are happy to provide 

expert advice, ensuring you get the right equipment and the right fit. If you need it for tramping, we have it, 

because at Bivouac Outdoor we ARE tramping. 

Adelaide Tarn 

Kahurangi National Park 

Photo: Mark Watson 

Adventure Magazine has been creating 

the ‘survival issue’ for the last ten years; 

it’s a lot more than ‘everyone likes a 

good train wreck story’ – it’s an issue 

about willpower and determination, about 

commitment and resolve. It shows the 

best of people, sometimes in the worst 

situations. 

In January, on our way to Alaska, we 

stopped over in Fiji. On arrival, our phones 

lit up with texted questions, “Were we 

safe? Did we leave OK? How was the 

airport?” We then discovered that the 

airport had flooded as we took off through 

some heavy turbulence. The flooding was 

widespread throughout New Zealand, and 

being away and viewing it unfold was hard 

to watch as people lost their homes and 

their lives. 

Then a week or so later came the second 

blow, Cyclone Gabrielle, and with it, the 

making of a perfect storm. An already 

waterlogged country drowned again and 

was battered by the cyclone. The country 

was devastated. As we looked on from a 

distance, knowing there was nothing we 

could do, it made little difference to the 

degree of our concern. Then, like so many 

others, our family had their own survival 

story unfold. Some of our family live at 

Muriwai; as the water-sodden cliffs faced 

howling winds and more rain poured, the 

cliff turned into slips, and the rest was on 

the news; loss of life, hundreds of houses 

red stickered, evacuation and lives ruined. 

A whole community was ravished in one 

night simply by the weather. 

Time will tell how that story unravels, if 

Muriwai will be rebuilt. But that connection 

to a survival situation has made this 

Adventure issue more poignant. 

This issue is dedicated to all those 

who have gone through so much over 

the last few months, those who have 

lost loved ones and houses, income 

and communities. Those who feel lost, 

isolated, and confused. We want you to 

know that you are not forgotten, New 

Zealand as a community will help, and 

normality will return. 

There is an old Jewish fable that says 

“Gam Zeh Yaavor” which means ‘this 

too shall pass’. That all things, no matter 

how difficult, ‘will pass’, which as with all 

survival, is the key to success, whether 

that is lost on a mountain, faced with 

floods or weathering a storm – ‘it will pass’ 

Steve Dickinson - Editor 

your Adventure starts with Us 

The story - Gam Zeh Yaavor 

King Solomon could not banish his grief 

and sadness. No matter what he tried — 

the treatments prepared by his doctors, the 

guidance offered by his counsellors, he 

was just unhappy, depressed, becoming 

more despairing every day that passed. 

Messengers were sent throughout the 

kingdom with a promise of wealth and 

power to anyone who could help the king. 

The greatest experts, sorcerers, and 

doctors came to the palace and tried their 

best, but to no avail. 

After a while, a wizened-up old man 

dressed in ragged clothes arrived at the 

palace gate. “I am a farmer,” he said, “I 

study nature, every day. I have come to 

help the king.” 

King Solomon’s courtiers dismissed him. 

“I shall wait, then.” Said the old man and he 

sat down to wait till the king would see him. 

The king’s condition worsened. He felt sad 

and helpless, he was lost to his depression 

and suffering and saw no end in sight. 

Finally, when all hope was lost, the courtier 

let the old man in. Without speaking a word, 

the man approached the king, handed him 

a simple wooden ring, and with that he left. 

The king looked down at the ring, read the 

etched inscription, and slipped it on his 

finger. Then he smiled. 

“What does it say, Your Majesty?” asked the 

king’s courtiers. 

“Just four words,” said the king. 

“This, too, shall pass." 

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BEHIND THE COVER 

Earlier this year, Kiwi Mike Dawson joined the Antarctic Heritage Trust 

NZ's Inspiring Explorers Expedition to the South Pole to celebrate 

Roald Amundsen's 150th birthday. Here he explains when this photo 

was taken.... 

Image by Lizzy 

Eight year old Mick at the crater lake on Mount Ruapehu! 

YOU CAN DO A LOT IN AN ADVENTURE CAP! 

Last year it was Mt. Taranaki, this year it was Mt. Ruapehu for 

8 year old Mick Van de Zeeuw. The weather conditions were 

perfect for the climb, with sun and light winds forecasted. After 

his adventures on the Northern Circuit in the snow last spring, 

he was amazed with the bare landscape on the mountain in 

the summer, wearing his Adventure cap. Proud and excited 

to finally be there after so many adventures close by! As 

the clouds came in at the top, it was the “easy” track down 

jumping from rock to rock via Restful ridge towards Knoll 

Ridge before coming back at the SkyWaka. 

"Taken on New Year's Eve during a break on a freezing Antarctic day, 

as we traveled across the Polar Plateau towards the South Pole. It was 

one of the coldest days of the expedition, any exposed skin quickly 

became frost nipped and at this stage, we were 45 days into our 

Expedition. We were all tired but excited to celebrate the New Year in 

one of the most remote places on the planet." 

Full story on page 6. 

EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER 

Steve Dickinson 

Mob: 027 577 5014 

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz 

ART DIRECTOR 

Lynne Dickinson 

design@pacificmedia.co.nz 

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M 

MASTERCLASS 

WITH DENIS KLERO 

Pavel Alekhin performs in California, USA. 

The image is a composite and retouched in 

image editing software. 

Image by Denis Klero / Red Bull Content Pool 

4//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#237

SURVIVAL 

Inspiring 

kiwi Explorers 

Mike Dawson has been involved with Adventure Magazine for 

many years; kayaking, exploring, skiing and coaching. Now he can 

add polar-exploring to his resume after recently returning from an 

expedition to South Pole! 

50 

days 

to the 

South 

Pole 

Interview with 

Mike Dawson 

Images 

supplied by 

Mike Dawson 

To celebrate 150 years since the birth of legendary polar explorer 

Roald Amundsen, Antarctic Heritage Trust chose three Inspiring 

Explorers to undertake a guided traverse of close to 1000km from 

the Ronne Ice Shelf to the South Pole, a route inspired by Reinhold 

Messner and Arved Fuchs’ Antarctic crossing. Mike Dawson was 

one of them. 

Joining Mike was fellow Kiwi, Auckland firefighter Laura Andrews 

and Norwegian intelligence analyst Marthe Brendefur. They were 

guided by Norwegian polar guide Bengt Rotmo and led by Antarctic 

Heritage Trust executive director Nigel Watson. 

With temperatures ranging from -25°C to -40°C, the team faced all 

types of weather and reached elevations of 2,800m skiing for up to 

10 hours per day for 50 days, each pulling a 60-80kg sled. 

The trip was extremely strenuous; participants needed to ski, 

mountaineer, endure extremely cold weather and have the mental 

stamina to continue in extreme conditions when physically tried. On 

his return we caught up with Mike: 

Who is Mike Dawson? I'm currently living in Okere Falls. I’m 36 

years old and have represented New Zealand in the canoe slalom 

at the London and Rio Olympic Games. My passion was always 

getting out and exploring new rivers and new places around the 

planet, so I ended up doing a few extreme kayaking adventures 

around the world. 

Heading South. The team slowly climbs while navigating 

through a maze of Sastrugi upwards towards the Polar 

Plateau on a bluebird day towards the end of the expedition. 


Someone who knows you well how do you think that they 

would describe you.? This is from Laura Andrews: Mike is this 

incredible guy who’s got a contagious belief that everything is 

possible. Despite being a legend himself, he builds everyone else 

up around him, making them feel like Olympian’s and inspiring 

them to expand themselves. He’s sarcastic, jokey and positive. 

He’s incredibly humble, super switched on, and lives life well for 

every moment. Mikes is incredibly capable, he has a novel worth 

of crazy experiences behind him. The amazing thing is that he can 

do these adventures and capture it as the same time. The aweinspiring 

content inspires, educates and connects. 

"Mike is this 

incredible 

guy who’s 

got a 

contagious 

belief that 

everything is 

possible." 

How did you become part of this expedition? The expedition 

was put on by the Antarctic Heritage Trust — The trust is a New 

Zealand-based not-for-profit that cares for the expedition base 

huts and approx. 20,000 artefacts left behind by early Antarctic 

explorers including Captain Robert Scott, Sir Ernest Shackleton 

and Sir Edmund Hillary. The reason for this expedition is to 

celebrate 150 years since the birth, Roald Amundsen, who in 1911 

became the first person to reach the geographic South Pole. Our 

team was a joint New Zealand and Norwegian expedition with 

3 kiwis and 2 Norwegians. It's the trust's sixth major Inspiring 

Explorers Expedition following a crossing of South Georgia in 

2015, an ascent of Mount Scott in Antarctica in 2017, a successful 

crossing of the Greenland ice cap in 2018, and kayaking 

expeditions on the Antarctic Peninsula in 2019 and 2020. 

What training if any did you do and how much lead up time 

did you have? Skiing 1000km in Antarctica wasn’t something I 

knew a lot about and it was completely different from whitewater 

kayaking so the preparation was a huge task. I guess the easiest 

way to look at it was getting conditioned to be on your feet all 

day for 50 days towing a sled and the strain this would put on 

your body. I think [the sled] was about 85kgs at its peak. It was 

definitely heavy. 

To do this I was towing tires as much as possible around in the 

bush in New Zealand to try and replicate the drag on my muscles. 

Then obviously the gym and keeping fit. It's interesting doing 

something like this when you don't have a lot of experience or 

know what it's going to be like in terms of the environment or the 

toll on the body. It was a huge learning curve, just operating in 

that environment under that fatigue day in day out. The other side 

of preparation was trying to figure out the equipment, and how 

you're going to stay warm and access things on your sled during 

the day. If there's a big storm or it's really cold you can't take 

your gloves off so you need to learn how to do that with them on. 

Even thinking about stuff as simple as what kind of food to take 

because most things freeze — these are little bits you need to 

figure out before you get on the ice. 

Most of your successes have been sitting down how was 

the challenge of a walking/standing challenge? Whitewater 

kayaking is fast-paced. When you’re out on a kayak mission 

you’re constantly solving the puzzle of Whitewater in front of you. 

Scouting, setting safety, and then running rapids. It comes at 

you all day. Skiing across Antarctica is completely different. The 

pace on the snow is slow. Often we were moving around 2,5km 

per hour with our goal being prioritizing keeping the team healthy 

and in the best condition to continue moving for 50 days on end. 

There’s definitely a lot of risks operating in the polar environment, 

but it’s a slow burn and can be managed much easier than the 

dynamic environment of the river. 

The train never stops as Auckland firefighter Laura Andrews navigates the team away from the Ronne Ice 

shelf and into the interior of the continent, across yet another wide open plain of majestic Antarctic scenery. 

8//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#237 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//9

Spirits were high as the team celebrated a successful 

expedition through the remote and inhospitable 

regions of Antarctica. 

Describe the others in the group? The expedition 

was unique in the fact that we hadn’t spent a lot 

of time together prior to departing. The expedition 

was a joint New Zealand-Norwegian expedition, 

in partnership with Ousland Explorers, and, would 

be guided by Norwegian polar guide Bengt Rotmo 

who has completed countless expeditions in the 

colder parts of the world including crossing the 

North West Passage by ski. Our team was led by 

trust executive director Nigel Watson, who has 

been a member of all the (8) IEE Expeditions 

including Greenland crossing, South Georgia 

Crossing, Mt Scott etc. Marthe Brendefur, a cyber 

"Intelligence Analyst" and ex-Norwegian Armed 

Forces member from Norway who skied across 

the Greenland ice cap in 2019 and has traversed 

the scandinavian high plateau at Finnmarksvidda 

and Hardangervidda joined the team with a huge 

amount of experience in the polar regions. Making 

up the Kiwi contingent was 28-year-old Laura 

Andrews, a firefighter at Auckland Airport, who had 

completed heaps of incredible adventures around 

the world. 

"all were 

used to being 

out there on 

the mission, 

however 

our polar 

experience 

ranged from 

almost none 

to world 

leaders." 

So the team had a mix – all were used to being out 

there on the mission, however our polar experience 

ranged from almost none to world leaders. 

Pre the event were you scared? How many of 

the other explores some of which did not return 

did you read up before you left? I wouldn’t say 

I was scared. There were some nerves mostly 

around what it was going to be like operating in 

such a cold and desolate environment day after 

day. I constantly tried to find out – How was it going 

to be? Would I enjoy it? 

And then of course the team – most of us were 

meeting for the first time in Punta Arenas to head 

South. We had spoken on Zoom etc, but to be 

thrown into an undertaking like this with people you 

barely know in a place you no almost nothing about 

was daunting and I guess a huge risk factor for the 

success of the expedition. 

10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#237 

After 50 days on a blistery cold day, the expedition team arrives at 

the South Pole, with the Amundsen Scott South Pole station in the 

background. The flags in the foreground mark the South Pole and the 

point that Roald Amundsen reached over 100 years earlier.

The scale of the never-ending white landscape is mind-blowing. Endless horizons of snow and ice 

in every direction without any sign of civilization as we continued South, for days on end. 

"Best moment? 

The moment 

the plane left 

after being 

dropped on 

the edge of 

the Ronne Ice 

shelf, and 

just realizing 

the magnitude 

of the 

undertaking" 

It seems from what I have read so far there was a lot of reflection on 

those that had travelled to the pole before you - what part did that 

history play? Having Nigel Watson on the expedition meant we were 

able to draw on the endless Antarctic History. 

Best moment? The moment the plane left after being dropped on the 

edge of the Ronne Ice shelf, and just realizing the magnitude of the 

undertaking. Once the plane left it was eerily silent and we knew we 

were a long way from anywhere – this was it, the only way back was 

South to the pole. 

Worst moment? I’m not sure there was a specific moment. There were 

some hard days when you were tired physically and mentally. The sled 

in certain snow conditions would make it hard sometimes but despite 

how hard it was you know that if you get one ski in front of the other 

eventually we’ll make camp and rest. I guess just remembering to take it 

day by day, hour by hour, minute by minute. 

What was the coldest day? The temperature ranged over the trip, but 

one thing was constant and that was it never went above 0 degrees. 

I’d say over the entire expedition it would have averaged around -20 

degrees, without taking wind into account. Once we climbed up onto the 

Polar Plateau (2800m) it was really cold, getting closer to the -30 mark. 

Ever felt like giving up? Some days you’re broken and every step hurts 

and camp can’t come quick enough. I never felt like giving up, although 

at one point I had a realization of how far there was to go. We were 

3 weeks into the expedition, all tired and we were understanding our 

timeline to the pole and I realized we still had a month out there. It was a 

humbling moment of how far the team had to travel, and what laid ahead. 

Did you learn anything about yourself that you didn’t know before? 

The biggest learning for me was how much of a privilege it is to be out 

there in the environment, battling the elements with just the food and 

equipment you can carry, on a pretty massive undertaking. And how far 

you can get by breaking it down and focusing on the task in front of you 

— basically of taking it day by day, step by step. 

Affter having done the trip, what advice would you give yourself? I’d 

bring less stuff… Everything that goes in the sled has to be carried so a 

minimalistic approach is best. I’d pack more food — I dropped 12kgs in 

50days and when you’re only 83kgs at the start, that’s a lot. And that it’s 

not a race, take your time and enjoy the journey. 

Arriving by plane on the edge of the Ronne Ice shelf & the Antarctic continent was 

a daunting moment. 


SURVIVAL 

Cochamó 

the high and the wild & 

how to keep it that way 

Words and photos by Derek Cheng 

Place your foot on the blank rock-face. 

Ease your weight onto it as you hold 

your breath and squeeze your insides. 

Don’t think about how far you’d fall if 

your foot slips. 

This is slab climbing, moving up on 

a featureless part of a less-thanvertical 

wall. There are no holds, 

nothing to grab and pull yourself 

higher. It’s all balance and footwork. 

It feels impossible, or, at best, highly 

improbable. 

Your heart hangs in your mouth as you 

carefully weight your foot. This eases 

the pressure on your other foot, which 

may or may not upset the magical 

formula that is, for the moment, keeping 

you attached to the wall. 

If done well, it feels like levitating, 

but there’s a fine line between heartin-mouth 

terror and levitation, a 

line I became very familiar with in 

Cochamó, Chile. The granite cliffs of 

this mountain-filled valley in northern 

Patagonia, sometimes called the 

Yosemite of the south, are full of 

discontinuous cracks and corners that 

are linked via blank, steep slabs. 

I had an early taste of this on one of 

our first climbing days. We were on 

the first pitch of a route called Surfing 

For Stone, rated ‘R?’, indicating the 

potential for an ugly fall due to sparse 

gear protection. I had climbed through 

the wet chimney at the bottom, and 

was searching for somewhere to place 

said protection. One moment, my foot 

was smearing on the rock. The next, it 

slipped and sent me tumbling down into 

the chimney, my torso inverting after I 

tripped on the rope behind my leg. 

The rope eventually came tight, 

arresting my fall several metres below. 

I gathered myself, assessed the 

damage. Mostly scot-free, aside from 

a banged-up elbow. Up I continued, 

beyond the place where I'd fallen, 

and then up a hand-crack as the wall 

steepened. 

It started to drizzle as I started up 

another featureless section, my feet 

clinging to the blank wall, my heart in 

my mouth. Wet rock and friction are not 

natural bedfellows. My foot popped, 

spinning me sideways into a 10m bum- 

slide that ripped up my soft-shell 

pants, underwear and butt-cheek. 

With a bruised body and ego, my 

will to continue dissipated as the 

skies opened. Down I went, tail 

between my legs, leaving behind 

gear to be retrieved another day. 

"My foot 

popped, 

spinning me 

sideways 

into a 10m 

bum-slide 

that ripped 

up my softshell 

pants, 

underwear 

and buttcheek." 

Right: The climbing on the first pitch 

of Der Grantler, in Cochamó's Trinidad 

valley, is steep and demanding. 


It was an abrupt introduction to a 

unique place that appeals to those who 

love the high and the wild. Cochamó 

is not your everyday holiday climbing 

destination, where you clip some bolts 

on a nearby cliff and then stroll to 

the local for sunset beers. Here, the 

only weather updates come via radio. 

There’s no helicopter coming to rescue 

you if something goes wrong. And 

aside from occasional bread cooked at 

one of the campsites, the only food is 

what's carried in. 

Such an isolated place might seem like 

a deterrent, but there are undeniable 

benefits to unplugging. No faces glued 

to phones. A simplified life, a rewilding, 

connecting only with what’s in 

front of you and letting everything else 

fall away. 

Access starts at the end of a dirt road, 

where horses ferry up to 60kg of 

gear up a 12km trail to the campsites 

near the confluence of two rivers. 

These sites, where climbers set 

up basecamp, are surrounded by 

Above: Rachel Knott enjoys the view from The 

Penthouse bivvy in Cochamó's Anfiteatro, one of 

a number of valley's that are full of granite walls. 

"Such an isolated 

place might seem 

like a deterrent, 

but there are 

undeniable benefits 

to unplugging." 

impressive cirques of granite. There’s 

El Anfiteatro to the south, Trinidad 

to the south east, La Junta and La 

Paloma to the north, Arco Iris to the 

west—each sector with several peaks, 

rock-faces up to 1400m high, and 

a number of established routes, as 

well as innumerable ones yet to be 

developed. 

An abundance of classics awaits in 

Anfiteatro, where climbers sleep under 

an enormous boulder just above 

the treeline. The rock-walls seem to 

lean in and look down on you from 

every direction. There’s Luchando 

con Mariposas (translation: ‘Fighting 

with Butterflies’), which includes 

several slab pitches to test your gecko 

footwork; La Aleta de Triburón (‘The 

Shark’s Fin’), which has a stunning 

aréte with gulp-fuls of exposure; Al 

Centro y Adentro (‘To the centre, and 

inside’), which follows a crack system 

that eats your fingers, hands, fists and, 

at times, your whole body. The crux 

pitch of the latter, of course, tests your 

gecko abilities on featureless rock. 


"The bivvy boulder in Trinidad is in 

the forest, but no less magical." 

Right: Jordan Sterzinger reaches high in a crack on Al Centro y Adentro, a 

classic 12-pitch climb in Cochamó's Anfiteatro. 

The bivvy boulder in Trinidad is in the forest, but no 

less magical. Several mountains encircle, providing 

the day's adventure: a thin seam guards the top-out of 

No Hay Hoyes (‘There are no todays’); a long corner 

system demands all manner of grovelling on Homo 

Santa (‘the Santa species’); the overhanging fistcrack 

on Der Grantler (‘The Grumbler’) will leave you 

breathless and weary, as will the steep and enormous 

flake you have to traverse on Las Manos del Dia (‘The 

Hands of the Day’). 

It became a familiar routine to do battle with the climbs 

throughout the day and plod back to our bivvy spot 

by headtorch, fatigue seeping through every pore. 

We then collapsed in a happy daze by the campfire 

as someone passed around that evening’s shared 

dinner; rice and lentils one night, freshly-mashed garlic 

hummus with fresh, fire-baked bread the next. 

As nurturing as this was, Cochamó is rapidly changing 

as it becomes a household name among the 

international climbing community. Ten years ago there 

was no nearby township, and climbers arrived to a 

handful of farms in the countryside, knocking on locals’ 

doors to ask to buy food and for a ride to the trailhead. 

Only hundreds of people a day occupied two campsites 

during the summer months. Today there are still no 

cafes or power lines, but there's a small shop (selling 

exorbitantly-priced bananas and satellite internet) 

and five campsites, with daily visitor numbers in the 

thousands. 

And then there’s the constant fight to stave off industrial 

development. Much of the land east of the river, which 

includes Anfiteatro and Trinidad, is owned by Chilean 

businessman Roberto Hagemann. The company where 

he owns most of the shares, Mediteráneo SA, has 

tried to gain consent for a hydroelectric power-plant. 

Previous attempts to install dams have been similarly 

blocked, thanks to the diligent efforts of local and 

international NGOs. 

The good news is that, earlier this year, Cochamó 

was declared a nature sanctuary, protecting an 11,000 

hectare area of native forest. The designation is 

thought to make the area less vulnerable to real estate 

development, hydroelectric dams and uncontrolled 

tourism, but with two caveats: a management plan and 

governance model are yet to be developed, and the 

protected area does not include Hagemann’s land— 

which he is now trying to sell, for hundreds of millions of 

dollars—nor a vast chunk of the climbing area. 

The underlying question is this: how much development 

is too much, or, put another way, how wild do we 

want our wild places to remain? As soon as humans 

encroach on a new place, some of that wildness is 

lost. If we allow visitors, how do we interact with the 

land while also preserving its beauty? How many is too 

many, and if we restrict numbers, how can that be done 

equitably? 

The balancing act between conservation and tourism 

is also playing out in New Zealand, where the multibillion 

dollar tourism industry is trying to gain back 

what it lost in the Covid pandemic. Draft National Park 

management plans could open the door to a gondola 

in Franz Joseph, and a far greater number of flights 

in Aoraki / Mt Cook. The plans for those areas are 

currently being redrafted in light of the Supreme Court’s 

Ngāi Tai ki Tāmaki decision, in December 2018, which 

clarified the role of iwi in government conservation 

plans. The new draft plan for Aoraki / Mt Cook is due to 

be released later this year, while the new timeline for 

Westland Tai Poutini is yet to be announced. 

In the meantime, it seems like we should be exploring 

the high and wild while they remain relatively free of 

the masses. Cochamó is still such a place, with its skyscorching 

condors high above native alerce forests, 

pristine pools, rushing rivers, and walls of endless 

granite. 

One of my last climbs there was on a route called 

Gardens of the Galaxy, a 840m climb up the La Junta 

peak. The first pitch required some delicate climbing 

around a wet streak. The crux pitch demanded some 

forceful pulling on a thin flake, followed by some wishful 

stemming up a blank corner. Steep slab protected 

the higher portions of the climb, and my best gecko 

impressions were not enough to prevent the odd fall. 

We failed to top out, but that mattered little as the sun 

set, bathing the valley in alpenglow as we descended. 

The forest below was thriving with bird-song. Above, 

the clouds swept over the summits as snowmelt fed the 

river below. We were but tiny specks in this immense 

place, the only people on the mountain. It was as if this 

magical place existed for us—and us only. 


SURVIVAL 

an impossible 

task? 

Allie Pepper is an Australian 

mountaineer who believes the 

biggest challenges offer the greatest 

rewards. She has reached the 

summits of Mount Everest and also 

one of the world’s most dangerous 

mountains, Annapurna 1. She 

has now set what seems like an 

impossible task to climb to the true 

summits of all 14 of the worlds 

8000m peaks without additional 

oxygen, in the world's fastest time. 

We caught up with her to find out 

what makes her tick and what is 

behind the challenge. 

allie pepper, 

takes on 

14 of the 

worlds 

highest 

peaks 

Images supplied by Allie Pepper 

Hi Allie, tell us about yourself? 

I am a 47-year-old mountaineer from the Blue 

Mountains of Australia. I discovered climbing in 1999 

when I signed up to an Outdoor Recreation course 

at a local college. I grew up in Australia’s largest 

climbing area but had never rock climbed until then. 

With a low self-esteem and no clear direction in my 

life at the time I found a career that I enjoyed, and I 

was naturally good at. 

At the start of 2000, I joined a technical 

mountaineering course in New Zealand. That course 

changed my life as I finally found my passion. 

Later that year I finished my Outdoor Leadership 

Certificate. I then worked as an assistant guide on an 

expedition to Aconcagua in Argentina. It was the first 

time I had the taste of high altitude mountaineering, 

and I was addicted. I discovered that I was physically 

strong in the thin air and had the ability to look after 

others, not just myself. 

My mountaineering journey took me from the 

Southern Alps of New Zealand to the Andes of South 

America. After 3 seasons of climbing and guiding in 

the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, I decided I was ready 

to climb an 8000m mountain. In 2007 I went to Cho 

Oyu, in Tibet. My climbing partner suffered frostnip 

on his toes during our acclimatisation phase on 

the mountain. He stayed at the Base Camp while I 

headed to the summit alone - which I managed to 

achieve without the use of additional oxygen. 

At the time I had dreams to scale all 14 of the 8000m 

mountains however, I did not have the financial 

means to do so. I chose Everest to climb next 

because I believed if I summited Everest, it might 

satisfy me enough that I would not need to climb 

anymore 8000ers. It took me 3 years to save up for 

that goal. In that time, I did not go to altitude or even 

put on a pair of crampons. My dream was to summit 

without additional oxygen however I was too slow 

on the mountain from my time spent at low altitude. 

I spent so long saving up for the expedition, I didn’t 

want to waste my time and money. I made the summit 

using bottled oxygen and did not fulfil my entire goal. 

This only made me hunger more for thin air. 

I have been on six expeditions to 8000m peaks since 

I summited Everest in 2011. Most recently I climbed 

Annapurna 1 in April. After climbing Annapurna, I 

realised that high altitude is where my spirit is truly 

free, and I am exactly where I am meant to be. I feel 

I am at home in the mountains, and I am my true 

self. I am at a time in my life where I can give full 

commitment to my passion. I now have the desire 

and motivation to fulfil my dream and ambition which 

started in 2007 after my Cho Oyu expedition. 

I aim to summit all 14 peaks without the use of 

additional oxygen. I have been training physically, 

mentally, and spiritually for this project for years 

now. I have learned from my successes, and I have 

learned from my failures. Most importantly I have 

been honest with myself, and I know that I cannot 

reach my full potential in my sport without giving this 

a go. 

Whilst on the journey to complete my project, I aim 

to inspire others that they can dream big too and 

they are capable of more than they know. It’s never 

too late in life to follow your passion and achieve 

big things. The biggest challenges offer the greatest 

rewards. 

"I realised that 

high altitude 

is where my 

spirit is truly 

free, and I am 

exactly where 

I am meant to 

be. I feel I am 

at home in the 

mountains, and 

I am my true 

self." 


"My project 

is to scale 

all 14 of the 

world’s highest 

peaks without 

the use of 

supplemental 

oxygen.” 

Where are you now based? 

Hazelbrook NSW 

What is the pull of climbing? 

It is my passion. 

What do you get, what do you give up with climbing? 

A life fulfilled. Nothing. 

Let’s talk about this statement. 

“My project is to scale all 14 of the world’s highest peaks 

without the use of supplemental oxygen.” to the TRUE 

summits, in the world's fastest time. 

Why? When? How? 

My goal is to complete the summits of all 14 peaks over the next 

two and half years. Whilst on the journey to complete my project, 

I aim to inspire people of all ages and walks of life that they are 

capable of more. It is never too late to dream big and take steps 

towards our highest version of ourselves. We don’t know what our 

true potential is until we break out of our comfort zone. 

Have you given yourself a time frame? 

By the end of May 2023 

What’s the biggest challenge? 

The funding of the project as well as the documentary. 

What’s the biggest fear? 

I have trained my mindset to be fearless. I don't think into the 

future with fear, and I try to stay in the now. 

Explain the difference to the dumb, the difference between 

with and without oxygen. 

The easiest way I can explain is to talk about the difference when 

I started to use it on Annapurna last year at 7800m. I went from 

being frozen to my core, taking two steps and stopping to rest 

and speaking one word at a time. To; talking in full sentences, so 

warm I had to take off my mitts and a layer from under my down 

suit. I swapped my mitts for gloves and was able to walk at a 

constant pace without stopping. Basically, three times the speed 

as beforehand. I could easily make decisions and was way more 

coherent than without it. I felt like I was back at Base Camp in 

terms of the altitude. 


" I like to focus 

on the positives 

so I am not 

going say 'my 

worst' as you 

are what you 

speak." 

M I C R O L I G H T 

A L P I N E 

How does the ‘GoFundMe me’ page work? 

I have a GoFundMe for my project costs and one for 

the charity I support, The Juniper Fund. 

Updated with recycled fabrics, recycled down, zoned 

micro and nano baffle stitch-through construction. Our 

classic hooded down jacket is lightweight, packable 

and provides instant warmth when the temperature 

drops in the mountains. 

How would someone who knows you well 

describe you? 

Always positive and very motivated. 

What do you think your biggest attribute is, what 

is your worst? 

Wanting to expand my awareness and grow in 

myself. I like to focus on the positives so I am not 

going say 'my worst' as you are what you speak. 

If someone told you that they were thinking of 

doing what you hope to do – what would you say? 

Enjoy the journey! How can I help you? Can we do 

this together? 

Who are your sponsors helping you with this 

challenge? 

Petzl | Himali | Backcountry Cuisine | Seven Summits 

Treks | Global Rescue 

www.alliepepper.com 

www.instagram.com/alliepepperadventures 

Available now from Rab specialist stores throughout NZ. 

Hunting And Fishing New Zealand stores nationwide. Auckland: Living Simply, Tauranga: Hamills, Rotorua: Hamills, 

Taupo: Trev Marine, Waikato: Trek N Travel, Equip Outdoors, Otaki: Outdoors Unlimited, Wellington: Dwights Outdoors, 

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Distributed by Outfitters 0800021732 www.outfitters.net.nz 


SURVIVAL 

Journey 

to the 

Source 

Words and images by Eric Skilling 

Nobody wants to find themselves faced with making a 

decision to abandon a multi-day hike within a few hours 

of starting, but thanks to some serious dehydration 

suffered by one of our group, that is exactly where we 

found ourselves. 

Planning for this trip began over six months ago, which 

made it even harder to face the prospect of having 

to turn around and go home. Generally, and I stress 

generally, I find the further south you venture in New 

Zealand, the more spectacular the wilderness. The 

5-day Rees Dart Circuit in the south-western corner of 

Otago in the South Island promised some of the best in 

New Zealand alpine country. 

Less than three hours into the trip and we were 

gathered around a member of our party as she sat pale 

and glassy-eyed, leaning heavily on one arm, clearly 

distressed. It would have made a bizarre scene had 

there been any witnesses, but we were alone. Six of 

us gathered on a small mound amid an expanse of 

grassland. Nearby the Rees River snaked its way down 

the gently sloping valley. Above us the sky was a sheet 

of deep blue, without a single cloud or jetstream in 

sight. It was hot with only the gentlest of breezes. 

Such a peaceful scene that gave no hint of the drama 

taking place in our little group. 

Dehydration 

in the 

Unforgiving 

Southern 

Alps 

Karen (not her real name) had been lagging whenever 

the track wandered off the valley floor and up the 

gentlest of climbs. She had mentioned feeling 

lightheaded, which she blamed on the pollen-filled 

air. After another short bush-bash over a small ridge, 

she emerged onto the small grassy mound, muttered 

“I need to sit down”, dropped her pack and crumpled 

down beside it. 

My first thought was Covid. Two of our party were still 

suffering the longer-term effects of infection and let us 

face it, it’s still at the forefront of most of our minds. 

How wrong I was. I gazed down at Karen and assessed 

our options – continue and risk the symptoms becoming 

debilitating, maybe even forcing a clumsy evacuation. 

Alternatively, and more appropriately, set up camp 

where we were gathered, and if Karen recovered, we 

faced eleven hours of hiking the next day. 

Fortunately, we were dealing with a highly experienced 

tramper. Slowly Karen became more animated, and 

her eyes began to focus. She reached for her pack, 

rummaged around, pulled out a packet of electrolytes 

which she added to a full water bottle. She must have 

downed nearly 400ml in her first drink. 

Jan reflecting early morning Dart Valley 


"Ironically the crisis was 

partly caused by the superb 

weather that greeted us 

when we arrived in late 

December." 

I was still dubious even as the colour 

slowly returned to her face. She 

wet a cloth and wiped her arms and 

neck. Ten minutes later she was a 

different person – a bit unsteady but 

determined to continue. 

She reluctantly handed me her tent 

to carry, and we walked the few 

hundred metres to the swing bridge 

at 25-mile creek. By the time we had 

all taken our turn to cross, Karen 

had enjoyed another long drink and 

her sense of humour had returned. 

Ironically the crisis was partly 

caused by the superb weather that 

greeted us when we arrived in late 

December. We had underestimated 

the effect of the long days travel 

to reach the start. It was after 3pm 

before we had hefted packs onto our 

backs, and it was blatantly clear we 

had all become dehydrated to some 

extent during the long drive. 

The sun had begun to slide behind 

the jagged peaks of the Forbes 

range that loomed above us and a 

shadow was creeping across the 

valley towards us. Within an hour 

we were pitching tents in an almost 

perfect spot for a night’s camp on 

the edge of the forest, close to fresh 

water. The stark-white glacier on Mt 

Earnslaw shone brightly overhead, 

nearly 2,200 metres above us. It 

felt pretty good to be enjoying an 

evening meal together, and later 

succumbing to sleep while listening 

to the gentle sounds of the river 

nearby. 

Next morning’s dawn chorus was, to 

quote another member of the party, 

“just glorious”. 

Fearing we might underestimate the 

effects of the previous day’s dramas, 

we set a goal to reach Shelter Rock 

hut, yesterday’s official goal, by 

midday. If we failed to meet that 

deadline the hut would become our 

shelter for the night, and we would 

cancel the side trip to Cascade 

Saddle we had originally planned for 

the following day. 

We made Shelter Rock hut by 

11am! Karen seemed to be back to 

her normal self, sharing her wealth 

of botanical knowledge as she is 

inclined to do, pointing out various 

obscure but beautiful flora along the 

way. What a team. 

Shortly after midday we had made 

it past the source of the Rees and 

were celebrating on the crest of 

the saddle at 1471 metres – a 

celebration made that much sweeter 

knowing how close we had come to 

ditching the venture. 

Mt Aspiring is such an apt right 

name for a National Park that offers 

many great wilderness experiences 

for avid and ambitious adventurers. 

Tramping to the source of both the 

Rees and Te Awa Whakatipu/Dart 

rivers left me in awe of these huge 

glacial valleys towered over by 

rugged snow-topped peaks. 

At times we wandered over wide 

open grassy flats, creased by the 

many tributaries that guide melting 

snow and ice from the peaks up to 

two thousand metres above us. In 

other places the trail winds through 

fern and moss layered beech forest, 

and thanks to some great pest 

control, we got to enjoy the calls of 

many native birds. Close encounters 

(yes, plural) with curious robin are a 

certainty, and we were lucky enough 

to pique the interest of a young kea 

who danced to within a few feet in a 

vain attempt to garner some morsel. 

Each of the three main huts are 

unique. Shelter Rock hut sited in 

a grassy flat surrounded by subalpine 

plants and steep valley walls. 

Daleys Flat hut sits above the lower 

reaches of the Dart River. Dart Hut 

must however, rate as one the best 

in New Zealand. Built alongside an 

energetic Snowy Creek and filled 

with the sound of water crashing 

its way over some huge boulders 

nearby. It also offers superb tent 

sites. 

Tanya and Kate above an ice strewn valley floor and imposing cliff faces of te Awa Whakatipu valley. 

Emerging onto Slip Flats on the way to Rees Saddle. 


Eric in sight of the source of Te Awa Whakatipu. 

"The melting ice is leaving behind a brutally scarred 

landscape, yet to be softened by the smoothing effect 

of water erosion or any significant plant life." 

Dawn mist on the way to Sandy Point 

Amber approaching Rees Saddle with the imposing 

Mt Clarke in the distance 

Approaching Dart Hut with ice shrouded peak 

of a distant Mt Edward. 

Group photo just before reaching Daleys Flat Hut 

Allowing for an extra night at 

Dart Hut allows time to take the 

day trip to the source of Te Awa 

Whakatipu/Dart River with a view 

of the Dart Glacier. Well worth 

the planning and effort. Less than 

20,000 years ago this region 

was part of a network of massive 

glaciers that gouged out the valley 

now filled by the waters of Lake 

Whakatipu, continuing all that 

way to where Kingston now sits. 

Today, the lower regions of the 

valley walls, while still impressive, 

have had time to erode, and for 

alpine plants and beech forests 

to establish themselves, slightly 

lessening their precipitous sides. 

Geologically the last section of the 

Dart River as you head towards 

Cascade Saddle is a landscape 

still in its infancy. Here you get an 

insight into what this whole region 

looked like thousands of years 

ago before the glaciers retreated. 

The melting ice is leaving behind 

a brutally scarred landscape, yet 

to be softened by the smoothing 

effect of water erosion or any 

significant plant life. 

The day I ventured into the valley 

was overcast with plenty of low 

and damp looking cloud. I was on 

my own with most of the group 

enjoying an easy day at Dart hut. 

The air sliding off the glacier was 

cold. Vegetation at the entrance 

to the valley is sparse and limited 

to stunted new generation plants. 

Mostly the land is nothing but bare 

moraine and crystal-clear streams 

of water. Valley walls along the 

western side are cracked, broken 

shist cliffs, capped by thick ice 

sheets riddled with threatening 

looking ice-cliffs. Many streams 

of melting ice freefall several 

hundred meters down from the 

clifftop to join the river below, 

their silver colour contrasting 

starkly against the blacks of the 

precipitous faces. At the base of 

one of the larger waterfalls smaller 

chunks of ice have formed a wide 

triangular fan. 

Closer to the glacier at the upper 

reaches of the valley, large 

mounds of ice lie on the valley 

floor, covered in a layer of small 

rocks and moraine dust from the 

ice cliffs above or perhaps left 

behind by the retreating glacier. 

The glacier itself might be a mere 

thumbnail of ice compared to 

its former glories, but it remains 

impressive. Get out there before it 

retreats into history. 

Many other highlights made 

this a memorable visit - various 

rock bivs give an insight into the 

resilience of earlier inhabitants 

who mined, hunted and gathered 

in the region, and the bush is full 

of stunning flowering plants to 

mention just a few. 

And we nearly missed out on 

almost all of it. 


BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA

SURVIVAL 

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(twin share) 

Package includes: 

• Track transfers 

• Coffee and cake on arrival at 

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• 2 nights in comfortable chalet 

accommodation* 

• All meals (Day 1 dinner & dessert, 

Day 2 breakfast, packed lunch & dinner 

& dessert, Day 3 breakfast & packed 

lunch). Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free 

meals available) 

• Use of On the Track Lodge kayaks 

and all other amenities, including a 

hot-tub. 

*Upgrade to stay in the newly 

renovated vintage train carriages 

(with private bathroom). 

Discover the hidden wonders of the Nydia Track, it is not as well known or 

busy as the Queen Charlotte Track but just as beautiful. 

The track takes you through coastal forest (rimu, nikau and beech) with 

superb views and is suitable for people with a reasonable level of fitness, 

boots are recommended and some of the streams are not bridged. 

• Start from Havelock and take a shuttle to historic Kaiuma Bay, (4-5 hours). 

• Dine then stay at On the Track Lodge in a comfortable chalet 

or train carriage accommodation. 

• Spend the next day relaxing at the lodge, kayaking or taking some shorter walks. 

• The next day complete the rest of the tramp (carrying your freshly 

prepared packed lunch) to Duncan Bay in time for another shuttle ride back to Havelock. 

On The Track Lodge 

Nydia Track, Marlborough Sounds 

+643 579 8411 | stay@onthetracklodge.nz 

www.onthetracklodge.nz 

multi day hiking 

suRvival guide 

Once again the silence was disturbed by the 

rustling of plastic and the shuffling of feet. I 

rolled over and tried to shut out the noise. 

I’d been in bed for a few hours but everytime 

someone entered the hut the same thing 

happened; they would first try to find their 

torch, then rummage through their packs 

looking for their sleeping bags and toiletries 

and finally they would settle, only for this 

process to be repeated by the next ten people 

as they slowly trickled off to bed. 

Yep, we were staying in a hut, and I had 

prepared myself for a disturbed night sleep, 

however, I foolishly believed that people would 

show some degree of hut etiquette. How 

wrong I was… 

We learnt a few things on our recent trip to 

the Routeburn that we thought we’d share so 

you too can survive (and enjoy) your overnight 

hiking experience. 

The hike: 

Take poles: They protect your knees, 

especially on the downhills, improve your 

power and endurance on the uphills and 

provide balance on uneven trails. 

Hikers Wool: Great for those niggling sore 

spots in your feet. 

Preventative medicine: Be prepared with 

voltaren, etc and use early if you suffer from 

any ailments such as sore knees. 

Pack Cover: Don't forget a cover for your 

pack incase of rain. 

Pack Liner: Also remember to line your pack 

with a waterproof liner. 

Wet weather gear: Doesn't work unless you 

put it on! 

tips and 

etiquette 

Food: 

Salami not Tuna: If you are taking a filling 

for a wrap, consider the smell and mess. 

Remember you have to carry it out after 

you've eaten it. 

Seal: Make sure all your food and tea bags 

etc are in sealed containers or bags. 

Treats: Cheese and crackers and a glass of 

wine at the end of the day is worth the extra 

weight. Take the bladder out of a casked wine 

and carry that! 

Sleeping: 

Pillow: If you have room to carry a pillow, 

great, otherwise take a pillowcase to stuff your 

clothes into. 

Packing cells: If you pack your gear into 

separate packing cells it makes it easy to sort 

at the end of the day. 

Prepare for bed: Do this before the end of 

the day by laying out your sleeping bag and 

gear before you go to bed and have your head 

torch handy. 

Leaving early? Pack your gear outside, not in 

the sleeping hut. 

Hut Life: 

Cooking areas: Keep clean and clear so 

others can use. 

Carry a cooker: Although the Great Walks 

have cookers it's always good to carry your 

own so you can enjoy the great outdoors. 

Take a newspaper for the DOC ranger, they 

will be eternally grateful. 

Walking poles help 

alleviate any extra 

stress on your body 

At the start of the Routeburn 

Having our own cookers meant 

we could make the most of the 

beautiful day outside 

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//33

SURVIVAL 

surviving 

the 

forces 

of 

nature 

It seems as if neither a cyclone nor an 

earthquake can stop her and her ambition is 

limitless: In her third attempt, extreme swimmer 

Nathalie Pohl has successfully managed to 

cross New Zealand’s Cook Strait as the first 

German woman and the fastest European 

woman to do so. With an exceptional time of 

06:33:00 hours, the 28-year-old reached the 

finish line on Ohau Bay at 4.30 p. m. local time 

(UTC+13) on 1 March. 

A very hazardous channel 

The passage between Ohau Bay on New 

Zealand’s North Island and Arapawa Island 

on its South Island is considered particularly 

dangerous. Only 130 extreme swimmers 

worldwide have ever successfully made the 

crossing. In addition to being a busy shipping 

lane, there are often sharks to contend with and 

significant seismic shifts on the seabed, which 

can cause dangerous currents. The Cook 

Strait is also known for its rough seas. Strong 

currents can add many hours to the swim. As 

Nathalie Pohl has experienced twice before, 

New Zealand’s forces of nature are something 

to be reckoned with. She had to abort her 

attempts in 2019 and 2020 after struggling 

against the current for hours, sometimes even 

swimming “backwards”. 

Crossing was on the back burner due to 

floods, cyclone and earthquake 

The motivation was all the greater this year. 

But the extreme swimmer had to worry 

about the crossing for a long time. Extensive 

rainfall caused flooding in New Zealand. Then 

cyclone Gabrielle and an earthquake made 

the start almost impossible. For more than 

three weeks, Nathalie Pohl waited for better 

weather. Meanwhile, she continued to train 

in a disciplined manner, but the uncertainty 

was not an easy situation, especially mentally. 

"New Zealand did not make it easy for me. It 

wasn't sure until the end whether I would be 

able to compete at all. Staying focused over 

Nathalie 

Pohl: the 

first German 

woman to 

cross Cook 

Strait 

such a long period of time was a real challenge. Even during the swim, 

the conditions were far from ideal. The weather suddenly changed again. 

I am just happy that I made it after all," explains the 28-year-old. But she 

didn’t allow herself to be daunted. After all, Nathalie Pohl is characterised 

in particular by her iron will. “In open-water swimming, the most important 

thing is your mental strength. No matter how well you have prepared, 

there will always be a residual risk. Mastering such a challenge with 

nothing but the strength of your own body results in such an adrenaline 

rush for me,” she says. 

Intensive preparations are the key 

Her success was preceded by months of preparations. To get ready for 

the crossings, Nathalie Pohl completed extremely intensive training that 

went far beyond just the swimming itself. In addition to hundreds of hours 

in the water, she also engaged in special strength training and exercises 

to prepare her for the cold and darkness. Her trainer Joshua Neuloh 

explains: “In December, we prepared for the Cook Strait in Portugal. We 

were in the Atlantic, facing two-metre waves, a water temperature of 16 

degrees and bad storms. There were no boats out. Even the Portuguese 

navy had kept its fleet in port. But Nathalie was out there, training hard.” 

Finally, food is a major topic. In the water, Nathalie has to eat every 30 

minutes due to the enormous exertion. With such high waves as those 

she experienced in New Zealand, even just being able to eat something 

is a major challenge. 

Within reach: The first German woman to complete the “Ocean’s Seven” 

Nathalie has once again shown that all these deprivations and years 

of training have paid off. The Cook Strait crossing marks Nathalie’s 

successful completion of the sixth of seven stages on her way to attaining the 

“Ocean’s Seven” – the world’s toughest long-distance open-water swimming 

challenge. The seventh stage in the icy North Channel between Ireland and 

Scotland is planned for September. If it all goes to plan, Nathalie Pohl can 

crown herself Queen of the Seas. She would be the 23rd person in the world, 

as well as the first German woman and youngest swimmer, to complete this 

challenge. 

More information available at: www.nathaliepohl.de 

About the Cook Strait: 

• The Cook Strait separates New Zealand’s North and South Islands 

• It was named after the British captain, explorer and seafarer James 

Cook 

• It is 26 kilometres wide (although the distance swum is always longer 

due to the currents) 

• Some specific challenges for extreme swimmers include strong currents, 

storms and sharks 

• There are only around ten attempts to cross it every year 

• The water temperature is a mere 15 to 18 degrees 

• To date, 130 swimmers have completed the crossing 

• It is one of the seven stages in the “Ocean’s Seven” 

• Side note: The “Ocean’s Seven” involves swimming across seven sea 

channels on five different continents. It is important that the athlete 

starts and finishes on land and does not touch the support boat or wear 

a neoprene wetsuit. Only 22 swimmers in the world have achieved this 

feat. Nathalie Pohl would be the first German woman to do so. 

" In addition to 

being a busy 

shipping lane, there 

are often sharks 

to contend with 

and significant 

seismic shifts 

on the seabed, 

which can cause 

dangerous 

currents. " 


SURVIVAL 

when 

things go 

wrong in the 

backcountry 

Expecting 

the - 

By Matt Butler 

It was a day I will never forget, and one that I look back on with 

a degree of trepidation. This is the story of the day when things 

could have gone so wrong, but luck meant we made it home 

alive. It is a moment that changed my view on rivers and made 

me second guess every time I crossed one from that point 

onwards. 

I had been a fly-fishing guide for a couple of years by the time 

of the incident. Almost every day during the summer was spent 

exploring valleys and traversing waterways in search of that 

elusive trout. Clients paid me good money to get them to places 

where they could have the experience of a lifetime, but this time 

it was our lives that were on the line. 

A friend reached out to me several months before a planned trip 

from the USA. He only had one day to spare, which is usually a 

tough ask when fishing our waters. But as I knew he was quite 

an experienced angler, the possibility of going heli-fishing in the 

New Zealand backcountry had him frothing. The key benefit 

of using helicopter transport is being able to access remote 

sections of a river that would usually take days to walk into. This 

usually means less pressure, no people, but also no information 

on the river conditions. 

As a guide, weather is the highest priority when planning a trip— 

not only what it will be like on the day but what it was like several 

days prior. The heavens can truly open up in the Southern Alps 

and, within hours, turn tranquil flowing rivers into raging torrents. 

This was one of those days. 

The night prior, there had been a lot of rain, and I mean a lot. I 

woke up to check the flow rates on the larger metered rivers to 

see that they were very high and still rising. Although the front 

had moved on and the rain had stopped, I decided then and 

there that it was clearly a no-go for heli-fishing. The only problem 

was, my mate was on his way down the west coast, and with 

only one day to spare, it was unlikely we could fish further afield 

where the rains had less effect. 

I rang him to have a frank and honest conversation, but it 

was obvious he was still keen to at least try to explore in the 

helicopter in case we found fishable water. After spending a few 

years exploring the West Coast by both land and air, I knew 

there were several "backup" water options, such as the spring 

creeks that boil out of the ground and meander their way to feed 

the main rivers. These almost never flood in rain and are often 

used as a refuge for trout escaping the floodwaters, so I knew 

that in the worst-case scenario, we could explore one of these. 

As the weather was clearing, I knew flying would be no issue, so 

I reluctantly agreed to meet him on the coast and see what we 

could find. 

unexpected 


"Taking a closer look at the proposed 

crossing, the water appeared no deeper 

than usual, and although the smooth 

surface showed movement, the volume 

of water was difficult to predict. " 

On the drive over, it quickly became evident 

that the rivers were in a bad state. Every 

bridge crossed was like driving over a 

river of chocolate milkshake. The rivers 

weren’t overly high, but they were dirty, 

usually a sign of short, but isolated, heavy 

downpours. The further I drove, the more 

I began to worry that this was just going to 

be a scenic flight rather than a 'once-in-alifetime' 

fly fishing trip. 

As I started driving down the coast to 

where the rivers entered the ocean, I 

crossed the river that we had planned to 

fish that day. I expected it to be just another 

raging torrent, but to my surprise, it wasn't 

at all. Although it was higher than usual for 

that time of year, the water was visibly clear 

and fishable. To say I was delighted is an 

understatement. 

I carried on further south to meet my mate 

at the helipad, and upon arrival, told him 

of my discovery. He was excited, and 

although I told him it’s still an 'unknown' of 

what it’s like in the headwaters, we both 

became quietly hopeful. The helicopter 

roared into life, and we began to climb into 

the mountains, crossing several swollen 

brown river snakes along the way. I still 

didn’t know what to expect, but as we came 

up over the ridge, the valley opened up in 

front of us to show off a crystal blue, clear 

river that was truly a sight for sore eyes. 

The odd thing about rivers is that they look 

deceptively smaller from the air. It’s very 

difficult to gauge water depth and volume, 

and the clear water can make even the 

biggest rivers look easily passable. We flew 

low over the river, spotting a few trout as 

we buzzed on by, and eventually came to 

a nice flat landing spot on the grassy bank. 

It was clear we had now made the decision 

to fish here for the day, and the helicopter 

would be leaving us alone in the valley until 

our designated pickup time of 5 pm. 

As the machine lifted and took off back 

down the valley until it was no more than a 

speck in the distance, silence enveloped us 

as we stood there in an ambiance of light 

drizzle and towering peaks. The overnight 

rain had made the towering waterfalls 

pound down the cliffs, shooting water 

fountains out from the rock like a firehose. 

We were content, to say the least. 

After a quick moment to gear up, we 

made our way over to the river. As I had 

been here several times before, it was 

immediately obvious that although the 

water was clear, it was high and pushing 

down some serious volume. It wasn’t an 

immediate concern; however, as the high 

flow often pushes the brown trout to the 

edges, where they are easily targeted, so 

we just launched into hunting down our first 

target. 

It wasn’t long until we found our first fish, 

cruising around a backwater in an effort to 

make life easy on itself. We managed to 

tempt it with a big juicy dry fly, and we were 

on the board for the day. As we released 

the 5 lb brown trout back to the water, a 

wave of relief washed over both of us. 

Whatever happened from now on, the day 

was a success. 

We pushed on up the river, sticking to 

the side where we had landed and were 

rewarded with several more fish caught in 

the net. The section we were fishing began 

with open grassy flats before ascending 

into a tighter valley carved by a glacier. 

As we made our way upstream, around 

midday we encountered our first hurdle 

- a high bank pool flanked by thick forest 

on one side and a nice open gravel bank 

on the other. Unfortunately, we found 

ourselves on the side with the bush. After 

a quick assessment, it became clear that 

crossing was not an option unless we 

backtracked a fair distance to where the 

river spread out. However, we spotted 

another gravelly corner above the forested 

section, which meant that we only needed 

to traverse a short section of bush to reach 

fishable water again. We broke down the 

rod, put our heads down, and pushed 

through the bush, making the more difficult 

but correct decision. 

We eventually emerged back into the open 

and resumed our search for trout. By this 

point, it was only 1 pm, and we had climbed 

high into the valley where the river started 

to terrace between huge, slow-moving 

pools and steep, powerful rapids. Standing 

at the end of one of these enormous, ginclear 

pools, we looked up the river and 

saw a towering rock wall on our side, with 

the river flowing hard against it. On the 

opposite side, there were open gravel and 

grassy banks stretching as far as we could 

see. It was evident that if we wanted to 

continue, we would have to cross. 

I had crossed the tail of this pool several 

times in the past, and although it was 

usually around waist-deep, the crossing 

was never difficult. Taking a closer look at 

the proposed crossing, the water appeared 

no deeper than usual, and although the 

smooth surface showed movement, the 

volume of water was difficult to predict. 

Normally, in these situations, I would wade 

in to about thigh depth to test if the crossing 

was possible, but on this day, I did not. 

As the water was clearly going to be 

swift, my mate and I stood side by side 

and crossed our arms behind each 

other's backs in a brace position. In these 

situations, four legs are better than two. 

We were crossing at the tailout of the 

pool where it would be the most shallow 

and started to make our way across. As 

we reached waist-deep, the power of the 

water became more apparent, although our 

waterproof waders gave us a false sense of 

confidence. 

Then suddenly, everything went wrong. 

We took one more step, and the river 

suddenly got much deeper. In a panic to 

regain control, my mate lost his footing, and 

the water lifted him off the bottom. I tried 

desperately to maintain my stance, but our 

close brace meant that he also pulled me 

off my feet. This was bad. 

We instinctively let go of each other as 

we began to get sucked downstream, and 

our waders began to fill with water. Just 

20 meters downstream from us was a 

thunderous rapid that, if we entered, would 

surely lead to our demise. As we were only 

4-5 meters from the other side of the river, 

there was no going back. So I screamed, 

"Swim!" and we both frantically swung 

our arms towards the shore. What felt like 

an eternity must have only been a few 

seconds, as we managed to grab the rocky 

bank on the other side, clambering up to 

safety. 

Panicked, drenched, and exhausted, I 

looked back at the river to get my bearings 

and noticed we had been pushed far down 

the river, only metres from going off the 

edge of the tailout into the rapids. Realizing 

we were just moments from death, we lay 

back onto the grass, equally overwhelmed 

and relieved. 

The feeling didn't last long, though, as 

we came to the realization that we were 

both drenched and freezing. Supposedly 

our waders had kept our legs dry, but our 

torsos were wet through, and with the 

drizzle still coming down, it was time to act. 


" If the weather had 

turned...we would have 

had no choice but to 

try and make use of the 

resources we had." 

walk to the helicopter landing site, and although we quickly 

warmed up, we were far from comfortable. 

We made it with about an hour to spare and took shelter among 

the forest canopy, shivering and counting down the minutes. 

We listened intently for any sound of a helicopter, but in such a 

steep valley with gushing water, it was hard to pinpoint a noise. 

Then all of a sudden, the machine burst out above us over the 

trees, turned to face us, and touched down. We were safe, 

alive, and would soon be warm. 

As a guide, it was usually my responsibility to be prepared 

for such a situation, and luckily I still had all my gear in my 

pack. So I quickly dug into my backpack to find my survival kit. 

We both stripped off our top layers of clothing and wrapped 

ourselves in emergency mylar blankets before checking our 

bags for dry clothes. Luckily, our bags had stayed mostly 

above the waterline, so we both had relatively dry jackets. 

We sat there to calm our nerves and slowly warm up, grateful 

that we were still breathing. We weighed our options and 

decided to start moving towards our designated pickup spot. 

I had a lighter ready, but as the surrounding foliage was 

drenched from the night's rain, it would have taken more 

energy to start a fire than it was worth, so we just packed up 

and got moving. 

The walk was punishing. We started to realize that the water 

that had made it into our waders had seeped down to our feet, 

and we heard the slosh with every step. It was around a 3km 

We were lucky that day, no doubt about it. If the weather had 

turned and the helicopter been delayed, or if the event had 

occurred earlier in the day, we would have had no choice but 

to try and make use of the resources we had. From that day 

on, it changed my view on what gear I carry and how I carry it. 

That's why I eventually created my own brand of survival kits 

and outdoor gear to help us better prepare for our adventures. 

Our flagship "KEA KIT" products take all the guesswork out 

of creating your own survival kit, and with version 2 launching 

soon, we're looking to take this ethos to the next level. 

You can see more at www.keaoutdoors.com 

The things we did wrong that day were numerous but 

inconspicuous. This, coupled with my familiarity with the 

weather and location, allowed some complacency to creep in. 

Since then, I can say that I am more cautious than ever and 

only cross rivers that I am comfortable with. The key is to be 

aware of your limits, know when the risk is too great, and take 

care, no matter what adventure you are on. Stay safe out there! 

DESIGNED FOR ANGLERS 

BUILT FOR 

ATHLETES 

For more information visit www.kilwell.co.nz

under thick ice 

wakboarding 

in the arctic 

German wakeboarder Felix Georgii is known for his 

creativity when it comes to unlocking new spots and 

trick variations therefore, it came as no surprise that the 

2018 X Games gold medallist chose a Swedish frozen 

lake north of the Arctic Circle as the perfect location to 

invite his friends, two-time World Champion Gührs and 

six-time Austrian Champion Dominik Hernler. 

The trio created an obstacle course by cutting out lines 

in the 80cm thick ice surface and shaping the ice blocks 

into a kicker, boxes and even a five-metre-wide igloo to 

jump over and ride through. 

Aerial view of Dominik Dernler in action - Image by Lorenz Holder/ Red Bull Content Pool 


Dominik Dernler in action - Image by Lorenz Holder/ Red Bull Content Pool 

"Creativity is super important for me; thus we are 

working with a completely new material. With ice, 

we can create obstacles that you can't do in a 

regular wake park on plastic obstacles." 

#theshackletonwhisky 

Despite temperatures dropping down 

to minus 18 degrees Celsius - that had 

seen men and equipment being frozen 

over - the trio swiftly broke the ice 

and demonstrated their creative trick 

repertoire. 

Georgii said: "Creativity is super important 

for me; thus we are working with a 

completely new material. With ice, we can 

create obstacles that you can't do in a 

regular wake park on plastic obstacles." 

As wakeboarders normally flock to warmer 

destinations to ride in board shorts, this 

time the three athletes suited up in 6mm 

thick wetsuits to remain warm for over 

an hour in 1° degree-cold waters before 

landing their trick and heading back 

indoors to warm up. The 29-year-old 

added: "We have to get our hands on the 

best neoprene equipment there is." 

Gührs, 32, explained: "After two days it got 

really cold, it was minus 10 degrees and 

then I started to freeze up, my jacket was 

all frozen, my boots were frozen up and 

I just felt like a proper ice man. I couldn't 

move anymore and in the end it was 

actually pretty extreme." 

After learning how to stay calm while being 

pulled upside down under the ice, Georgii 

connected with two-time Red Bull Illume 

Overall-winning photographer Lorenz 

Holder to create the perfect shot. 

German Holder placed his flashes facing 

down on the ice surface and used the ice 

body as an amplifier to shine light through 

the dark waters, freezing Georgii in the 

perfect moment while being pulled from 

one side of the ice opening under the 

surface to the exit. 

Georgii enthused: "Under water it's just 

black everywhere, but you can feel the ice 

sliding along the board and that's a super 

awesome feeling." 

Throughout the 11-days build, the 

crew and machinery had to withstand 

temperatures of down to -32° degrees 

Celsius, resulting in frozen beards, 

chainsaws and pools, that were reopened 

and cleared every morning. In total 518 

tons of ice were lifted out of the lake from 

which roughly 10 tons were used to create 

the obstacles on three distinctive lines. 

The 110 metre-long feature line pushed 

the riders to deliver big airs and technical 

slides; a natural line demanded quick feet 

to jump from pool to pool and a creative 

line meant the wakeboarders could slide 

over a long slab of ice equipped with ice 

walls. 

Hernler, 31, declared: "My highlight was 

definitely the riding, sliding around on ice 

obstacles was something new I've never 

done before." 


"After learning how to stay 

calm while being pulled upside 

down under the ice, Georgii 

connected with two-time Red 

Bull Illume Overall-winning 

photographer Lorenz Holder 

to create the perfect shot." 

Felix Georgii under the ice - Image by Lorenz Holder/ Red Bull Content Pool

time to 

paint 

a new 

picture 

Words by Lynne Dickinson 

Images as stated 

alaska 

We’ve always wanted to visit Alaska. 

The picture we had was painted 

by years of Warren Miller movies, 

reading “Into the Wild '' and 

watching numerous clips of huge 

cliff jumps and heliskiing in Valdez, 

we had created a collage of a 

wild, extreme, hostile and remote 

destination. 

So with travel restrictions finally 

lifted we started to plan our 

adventure and were surprised how 

easy it was to reach Alaska, and 

how accessible it was to experience 

the vast range of outdoor 

adventures that has made Alaska 

such a sought after destination. 

We had googled the ‘best things to 

do’ in Alaska during winter, which 

of course included skiing, moose 

spotting, fat biking, snowmobiling, 

snowshoeing and viewing the 

Northern Lights and planned our trip 

accordingly. 

Centre Ridge - Image by Ralph Kristopher 


"Fat biking was 

a great way 

to get around 

and familiarize 

ourselves with 

the area and it 

was fantastic 

having our own 

personal guide 

in Dusty." 

The town of Anchorage is dwarfed by the majestic Chugach Mountains in the background - Image by Lynne Dickinson 

Above: Dustin and Steve 

on the Tony Knowles 

Coastal Trail 

Left: The illusive Winter 

Bull Moose - Image 

compliments Visit 

Anchorage 

We had left the heat of a NZ 

summer (well actually the middle 

of unprecedented floods) and after 

a short connecting flight arrived at 

Anchorage, a city blanketed in snow. 

Anchorage sits at the base of the 

Chugach Mountains with Cook Inlet 

at its feet. Six mountain ranges can 

be seen from Anchorage, including 

the Alaska Range in the north where 

you’ll see the infamous Denali on 

a clear day. There are another 200 

recognised mountains, 60 glaciers 

and 30 lakes and ponds in the 

Chugach National Forest and State 

Park, all within 80km of Anchorage. 

We arrived in the late evening and 

were met by Teri from Visit Anchorage 

who drove us straight to the Lakefront 

Anchorage, our accommodation for 

the night. We were greeted with a 

life-sized polar bear and bison in the 

lobby (both stuffed) along with nearly 

every other Alaskan animal hanging 

on the walls (well mainly their heads!) 

It was quintessential Alaska, where 

the urban meets the wild. 

Our first morning we were greeted 

with a picturesque white city, with 

deep snow everywhere. Dustin Eroh, 

co-owner of Alaska Bike Adventures, 

picked us up from our hotel to take us 

on our fat biking adventure. Fat biking 

is fairly new in New Zealand, however 

in climates such as Alaska, where the 

ground is covered in snow for half 

the year, fat biking has been around 

for a while. In fact, fat bikes were 

first seen in the 1900’s but it wasn’t 

until the 70’s that modern-looking fat 

bikes came to life with the help of bike 

frame builders from Alaska. 

Dustin took us out to the start of the 

Tony Knowles Coastal Trail which 

winds 17 km along the coast from 

downtown Anchorage to Kincaid Park. 

On paper, this looked like a fairly 

easy ride, however with the amount of 

snow we were soon breaking a sweat 

despite the cold. This was our first 

introduction to Anchorage and it did 

not disappoint. Biking along snow filled 

trails we could see numerous mountain 

ranges in the distance and an ice 

covered ocean moving eerily alongside 

the trail. 

Fat biking was a great way to get 

around and familiarize ourselves with 

the area and it was fantastic having 

our own personal guide in Dusty. 

His knowledge of the area and our 

surrounds were invaluable. At one point 

we left our bikes on the side of the trail 

and headed onto the foreshore, which 

was covered in ice bergs and snow. 

We walked to the edge and watched 

the change of tide move the icebergs 

along right in front of us 

Our next stop was Girdwood, a 

45 minute drive from downtown 

Anchorage for some skiing and 

snowmobiling and hopefully to catch 

a view of the Northern Lights. The sun 

was doing its best to break out from the 

clouds as we drove along Turnagain 

Arm towards Girdwood. We stopped 

numerous times to photograph, 

however, nothing can capture the 

grandeur of the scenery here and no 

photo could do it justice. 


Inserts top to bottom: Steve deep in fresh snow at Alyeska 

Alyeska Resort under the Northern Lights and Relaxation in the Alyeska Nordic Spa - Images compliments Visit Anchorage 

Girdwood is a small settlement founded 

in the 1890’s to supply miners during 

the Turnagain Arm gold rushes and 

home of the Alyeska Resort, which was 

our next stop. We were surprised at the 

magnitude of both the mountain and the 

resort itself. It is part of the Chugach 

mountain range and is the largest ski 

area in the state. With numerous places 

to eat at the hotel and a shuttle running 

regularly, it was a great base for our 

stay. 

The snow continued to fall and we 

woke to almost a foot of fresh snow. Not 

knowing the mountain we decided to 

work our way up from the bottom. The 

snow was perfect, it was super light and 

made for incredible skiing. At the top 

of Alyeska the runs drop into big bowls 

with few trees to be seen, a little more 

similar to home. The terrain is suitable 

for intermediate to advance skiers and 

on the north side you’ll find a host of 

double blacks including the longest 

double black in northern America. On a 

clear day you can see the ice covered 

Turnagain Arm, up to seven “hanging” 

glaciers and endless peaks deep into 

the Chugach Mountain range. 

With unusual daylight hours in this part 

of the world, the lifts don’t open until 

10.30am but continue until 5.30pm so 

we skied until dusk and then headed 

to the Nordic Spa right next door to our 

hotel. This adults only spa is nestled 

into the forest as you move between 

hot and cold pools and rest in saunas 

and steam rooms. With no cell phones 

allowed (and no kids) it created a serene 

place to unwind at the end of the day. 

Wrapped in the supplied bath robes we 

wandered between pools and saunas 

before heading back inside to their 

bar for a celebratory drink (still in our 

bathrobes). They also have a restaurant 

and massage services available. 

One of the draw cards for anyone 

coming to Alaska is the thought of 

seeing the Northern Lights and we 

were no different. We knew that 

Girdwood and Alyeska were prime 

viewing locations due to their lack of 

light pollution so we checked the skies 

before heading to bed. Unable to see 

the mountain due to the low cloud we 

settled in for a good night sleep. The 

following morning as we were on our way 

snowmobiling our host casually asked, 

“So did you see the Northern Lights last 

night?” You can imagine our horror to 

find out that we had missed them! 

We were joined on our snowmobile tour 

by two ‘good ol boys’ from Texas and 

their friend from Girdwood. They had 

also been touring around Alaska hoping 

to see the Northern Lights and some 

wildlife. Like us, they had missed the 

Northern Lights the night before but had 

Skiing in Alyeska on a clear day exposes incredible views - Image by Sagar Gondalia 

seen moose in the carpark at Walmart 

in Anchorage. Surely we would get a 

glimpse of a moose out in the back of 

Girdwood, but we had no such luck. 

Our guide, Erica was about 5ft nothing, 

had a constant smile and a flash of 

purple in her hair. Despite her small 

stature she was skillful at handling a 

snowmobile and super experienced in 

the outdoors. 

We had hoped to join the glacier tour, 

however the conditions did not allow it 

so we joined their scenic tour that took 

us through private trails in the Chugach 

Mountains. After an hour or so of riding 

around we stopped for some reindeer 

"the northern 

lights shone 

bright over 

alyeska 

resort - 

unfortunately 

we were 

asleep!" 


Glacier City Snowmobiles also run tours to the Glacier when the conditions are right - Image from Visit Anchorage 

hotdogs which we ate around an outside fire 

surrounded in snow. Snowmobiling is not 

something you do everyday, well not if you 

come from New Zealand (maybe if you live 

in Alaska), plowing through the 3 foot deep 

snow, surrounded by mountains and forests 

was a unique experience. 

Our last night at Anchorage we were 

determined not to miss the Northern Lights 

so we set our alarms for 1am. There is a 

nightly aurora forecast that shows when the 

lights will be most visible and the forecast was 

looking good. However, it also needs to align 

with a clear, cloudless night, and as we went 

to bed the clouds were beginning to form. 

Undeterred we got up at 1am and rushed to 

the window but saw nothing but clouds. So 

we reset the alarm for 2am, 3am, 4am, and 

eventually gave up at 5am. 

At 9am, slightly sleep deprived after our 

northern lights effort, Matt Worden, owner and 

guide of Go Hike Alaska picked us up from our 

Hotel Captain Cook in downtown Anchorage, 

(a real taste of home) and drove us out to 

Glen Alps in Chugach State Park. 

Our group of hikers consisted of four fellow 

travellers, one from Florida, two from Seattle 

and one from San Francisco and us from NZ. 

We chatted and bonded on our way out to 

the park before donning our snowshoes and 

following Matt onto the snow. We were looking 

forward to exploring the outdoors and keeping 

our fingers crossed that we’d get to see a few 

moose. Believe it or not, 1,500 moose live 

within Anchorage city limits and Glen Alps was 

considered one of the best viewing spots. 

Walking in snowshoes takes some getting 

used to but once you get in the rhythm it’s 

easy going. The snow was deep and fresh so 

it was a real exploratory experience. We felt 

like real pioneers trudging through the snow 

covered hemlocks and meadows surrounded 

by sheer mountains. As we moved across the 

snow, Matt pointed out where each mountain 

range was, where glaciers had been and due 

to the fact that we were walking on virgin snow 

it was easy to see that there were no other 

footprints around, which meant no moose. 

Two hours snowshoeing went too quickly. At 

one point one of our fellow trampers asked 

if we could stop and just listen to the quiet 

for a while. It was amazing how silent the 

snow covered landscape was, maybe even 

unsettling. There was not just ‘no noise’ but 

the snow seemed to suck the air out of the 

silence like a giant muffler. 

Our guide, Erica stoking the fire while the 

boys from Texas warm up with a hot drink 

Hiking in snowshoes, a super peaceful way to experience the outdoors 

Left to right" Matt Wordon leading our merry group / Dustin Eroh from Alaska Bike Adventure / 

Steve and I celebrating our first adventure in Anchorage 

Our short trip was almost over - Skiing, check! 

Fatbiking, check! Snowmobiling, check! 

Snowshoeing, check! Moose spotting, just… 

Teri couldn’t believe we had not seen a moose 

so on the way to the airport she took the long 

route searching for what had now become 

almost a mythical creature. As we were about 

to give up, one ran across the road and we 

caught a glimpse of its backside as it headed 

into the forest beside us. 

Northern Lights, maybe next time! 

One aspect that we all gained from our brief 

visit to Alaska, was knowing that there was 

still so much for us to explore. It was as if 

someone had passed a book off a shelf and 

we’d only just read the first sentence. There 

was a whole book of adventures waiting to 

happen with so many pages still to be turned. 

"There was 

a whole 

book of 

adventures 

waiting 

to happen 

with so 

many pages 

waiting to 

be turned." 

RECOMMENDATIONS: 

We flew to Vancouver via Fiji with Fiji Airways. 

Excellent service and price! 

www.fijiairways.com 

Places we stayed: 

Lakefront Anchorage: 

www.millenniumhotels.com 

Hotel Alyeska: www.alyeskaresort.com 

Hotel Captain Cook: www.captaincook.com 

Places we ate: 

Snow City Café: www.snowcitycafe.com 

Aurora Bar and Grill: www.alyeskaresort.com 

Forte Alaska: www.alyeskaresort.com 

Simon and Seaforts: 

www.simonandseaforts.com 

SPECIAL THANKS TO: 

Teri Hendricks for organising such a wonderful 

stay and being our personal tour guide 

throughout. 

Dustin Eroh from Alaska Bike Adventures 

for the introduction to Fat Biking and 

Anchorage. www.akbikeadvenutres.com 

Alyeska Nordic Spa, for the hydrotherapy 

session, thoroughly recommend. 

www.anordicspa.com 

Erica from Glacier City Snowmobile Scenic 

Mountain Tour. www.glaciercitytours.com 

Matt Worden, owner/guide, Go Hike Alaska 

www.gohikealaska.com 


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An ode to the 

prospectors 

Words and Images by Leon Butler 

www.visualyarn.com | Insta - Leon.butler1 

Christopher Reily drags himself out into the 

brisk kiwi morning, puts a pan of water in the 

fire and gets himself ready for the day. It’s 

1862 and he’s a little late to the Otago gold 

rush, but he sees what others don’t and is 

confident he can find his share of the spoils. 

“Today’s the day,” he proclaims aloud in a selfmotivating 

yell, “today is the day all this bloody 

effort pays off.” 

The past few days of breaking trail into his 

new-found stashes in the Dunstan area have 

taken their toll, but Reily wouldn’t have it any 

other way. His body hurts but every time he 

strikes gold that pain is washed away in the 

sluicing. There’s no better feeling than seeing 

results from a good day's graft. 

Reily was a visionary, a creative who was both 

tough and practical. Through stubbornness 

and experience, he found gold in the dirt 

of Central Otago at a time when the boom 

was thought to be over. He saw something 

different in Dunstan and he set the tone that 

started an influx of activity into the area of 

others looking to get rich off the harsh Otago 

terrain. He is a prime example of what can 

happen when determination and imagination 

combine with human endeavour. 

same dirt, 

different 

reward 

Pete riding his bike in the 

footsteps of Otago gold miners. 


"Just like a prospector surveying the land in front of 

them for dig sites, Pete looks at a chunk of inhospitable 

terrain and creatively figures out how to ride it. " 

The fabled route that now resembles 

the Dunstan Trail, was once an 

inhospitable and treacherous shortcut 

to the goldfields. People were met 

with treeless, brutal mountains and a 

scorching hot climate, but undeterred 

they forged on in the search of Reily’s 

riches. 

160 years later and the rugged rock 

of the area is still as harsh and wild as 

ever, but now there’s a different kind 

of intrepid explorer trying to find their 

own riches, this time, however, the 

gold IS the dirt. 

What those early prospectors did 

was lay the foundations of how we 

now interact with the mountains. 

The shanty towns that sprung up 

have stuck around, the work shifted 

from gold to fruit and farming and 

the mountains developed into a 

playground for those on two wheels 

looking to create their own slice of trail 

riding Valhalla. 

The skill of a miner was in their ability 

to read the land and find minerals 

in the earth through perseverance 

and resilience, the modern-day biker 

has adapted the same passion and 

sprinkled it with a little adrenaline in 

order to seek out the best trails in 

the same desolate landscape. The 

exploratory, goal-driven mindset is 

the same, just the reward is slightly 

different. 

Otago mountain biker Pete Miller and 

his mates are a modern-day tribute to 

those old timers. Whilst the extreme 

hardships aren’t on the same level, 

the willingness to push themselves 

to the max for the sake of some hero 

dirt harks back to the attitudes of Chis 

Reily and the trails that he put in all 

those years ago. 

Pete knows the area like the back 

of his hand after years of searching. 

It would be all too easy to go ride 

some perfectly sculpted berms and 

jumps, and so with a group of mates 

they have been exploring the Central 

Otago backcountry for years, getting 

their hands in the dirt and bikes on 

tussock, rock slab and anything 

else they can find in search of the 

region’s best terrain. And they’ve 

found it, away from the crowds these 

dedicated riders have taken on the 

Otago area as their own playground. 

Just like a prospector surveying the 

land in front of them for dig sites, 

Pete looks at a chunk of inhospitable 

terrain and creatively figures out how 

to ride it. Sometimes it’s through 

experience gained over the years, 

or maybe it’s a gut feeling and the 

‘knack’ of knowing where to go, either 

way it’s not done the easy way. One 

trait that will always continue, and 

Pete will be the first to agree, is that 

there’s no better feeling than cracking 

a beer at the end of the day and 

having a yarn after sweating it out 

on the trail, and I’m sure Reily would 

have been right there with him. 

Central Otago has a unique geology 

that my inner child is convinced fell 

straight from Mars, and a climate that 

goes from scorched desert to tropical 

lushness. Its rolling flat top mountains 

are mostly made up of loose schist 

covered in tussock and fragrant thyme 

that, conveniently, hides the smell of 

sweating bikers. Look close enough 

and a whole world of winding trails 

snake their way into the depth of the 

mountains where these hardy bikers 

are riding technical trails to the subtle 

tones of the setting sun over the Pisa 

range. 

According to Pete, the central 

goldfields make for amazingly unique 

riding due to the steep rock slabs 

and super technical sections that 

require maximum commitment to find 

and ride. He goes on to say that “it’s 

building trails with his mates in places 

that a lot of people wouldn't fathom a 

bike can be ridden that motivates us. 

Trying to find these creative sections 

amongst the challenging terrain is 

pure adrenaline fueled fun and is our 

way to doff the cap to the history of 

the region”. 

Bikes are more than metal and 

rubber; they are tools that connect us 

to the earth and allow exploration and 

fun to combine through expression. 

They bring people together, 

encourage escapism and will take you 

to places otherwise unreachable. 

To quote a storyteller from back in 

the day, “Nothing is impossible when 

it’s a matter of finding gold” and that 

determined attitude still lives on 

today through those who play in the 

mountains. 

Hayden slaying some central Otago slab 


There was a term used for miners who 

were struck by gold fever and couldn’t 

tear themselves away from prospecting 

in the mountains. Known as Hatters, they 

would spend a lifetime on the dirt road, 

drifting along in search of gold. In some 

way I feel that a lot of those who move to 

the mountains become Hatters, always 

looking for that next trail or place to explore, 

unwilling to leave the all-consuming beauty 

of the mountains. 

They were colourful characters whose efforts 

live on through their creative naming of 

areas such as the ‘Knobbies’ and ‘Raggedy 

Mountains’, not to mention Roaring Meg, 

so named after a fiery grogshop owner 

you didn’t want to get on the wrong side 

of. The mtb community honours this 

humorous legacy to this day with the equally 

imaginative names given to bike trails in the 

area….’ Angry possum’ and ‘Rockapotomus’ 

are a favourite of Pete’s. 

So, here’s to the pioneering adventurers like 

ol’ Chris Riley. These tough buggers not only 

laid the physical foundations for us to enjoy 

the mountains but also the mindset to push 

ourselves past what’s comfortable and seek 

out new challenges in the great outdoors in 

pursuit of progression. 

The miners have gone, but their spirit lives 

on through two-wheeled explorers such as 

Pete and his mates. 

The scars on the landscape of Otago are now being re-cycled by local riders 



SURVIVAL 

black diamond Trail Pro Trek Poles $239.99 

Combining the adjustment ease and 

security of our redesigned FlickLock 

Pro with the quick deployment and easy 

collapsibility of our new SmashLock 

technology, the Trail Pro offers reliable 

performance on day hikes or in the 

mountains. 

• Aluminum construction that’s lighter and 

easier to use 

• Updated soft-foam grip with solution 

strap 

• Women’s-specific version available 

Find a Stockist: 

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ 

sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar power bank $129.00 

Built tough for the outdoors and with a massive 

battery capacity you can keep all your devices 

charged no matter where your adventure 

takes you. 

WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ 

rescueme PLB1 $589.98 

Wherever you are, at sea, on land, 

the rescueME PLB1 provides the 

reassurance that global emergency 

services can be alerted by the press of 

a button. 

The rescueMe PLB1 can be operated 

with a single hand in even the most 

challenging situations. A simple springloaded 

flap covers the activation button 

preventing inadvertent use. rescueME 

PLB1 works with the only officially 

recognised worldwide dedicated search 

and rescue satellite network (operated 

by Cospas Sarsat). As this is funded by 

governments there are NO CHARGES 

to use this service. 

Available through all leading sports and 

recreation retailers and online. 

WWW.RESCUEME.CO.NZ 

PROVEN 

TO SAVE LIVES 

PLB1 

Personal 

Locator 

Beacon 

The World’s 

smallest PLB 

steripen Adventurer Opti $299.95 

The rugged, lightweight Adventurer Opti 

excels in the toughest mountains and 

rivers in the world, eliminating bacteria, 

protozoa and viruses. Perfect for those 

with no access to power for several 

days at a time. 

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ 

steripen classic 3 $249.95 

The Classic 3 Steripen with a pre-filter 

is perfect to pack when on adventures 

to keep you safely hydrated. Classic 3’s 

UV light kills over 99% of waterborne 

microorganisms that cause illness. 

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ 

KEA awa $50.00 

KEA AWA is the nano-filtration water 

straw that allows you to drink safely 

wherever you are. Filters 99.99% of all 

nasties from any water source. 

WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.CO.NZ 

KEA STASH $60.00 (GO) - $70.00 (XL) 

KEA STASH is the Leak free, smell 

free, trash compacting bag.Available 

in 2 sizes “GO” & “XL” so you can 

say goodbye to messy, bulky trash 

wherever you are. 


KEA lumen $100.00 

KEA LUMEN is the powerful, durable & 

versatile flashlight to ensure that you’re 

never left in the dark. 


Outdoor Research Helium Emergency Bivy $219.99 

Just like how you'd put a hard shell over 

your puffer jacket, this bivy was designed to 

protect your sleeping bag from the elements 

while trapping in warmth. Constructed with 

Helium fabric (Pertex® Shield 2.5L, 100% 

nylon, 30D ripstop) it uses a simple tube-like 

construction and cinch closure to seal out 

wetness and save on bulk. Packs down to 

the size of a beer can! 264g 

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ 

Kiwi Camping Boost LED Light with Power Bank $89.99 

Bright LED light with power bank to illuminate 

your tent and charge devices on the go. 

Features 11 light modes including SOS signal, 

built-in magnets and hanging hook. 

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ 

30% (typ) smaller 7 year battery life 

66 channel GPS 

– Fast accurate positioning 

EPIRB1 

Essential 

for safe 

boating 

The World’s Most 

Compact Emergency 

Position Indicating 

Radio Beacon 

exped Lyra III Tent $799.99 

2- to 3-person 3-season tent. Lightweight 

and freestanding with two doors and 

vestibules. You can pitch the canopy solo 

(optimist mode), or in stargazer, breeze-way 

or privacy modes depending on how you 

adjust the fly. Full, packaged weight 2.3kg 



Chickfly Bamboo Leggings High Rise 

or Low Rise (USD $119.00) 

Chickfly leggings are made 

with soft, strong, stretchy 

and sustainable bamboo 

fabric, coloured with organic 

dyes. Our patented fly is held 

together by tension, creating 

a seamless, flattering, soft, 

and easy-to-use feature in the 

most comfortable and stylish 

black legging that every 

woman needs not only for 

style but for convenience and 

functionality. 

WWW.CHICKFLY.COM 

Kiwi Camping Weka 2 Hiker Tent $339.00 

Kiwi Camping's most popular hiker tent with 

double-sided entry, sturdy vestibules, and a 

user-friendly design. With a fly that handles 

rain and snow, the Weka 2 is perfect for 

hiking adventures. 


$ 

399 99 5 year warranty 406-link via 

LAB0684 

30% (typ) smaller 10 year battery life 

satellite to 

Emergency Services 

www.rescueme.co.nz

Sea to Summit Etherlight XT Insulated Mat from $109.00 

Three-season warmth in a lightweight package. 

At four inches thick, Ether Light XT Air Sprung 

Cells provides a plush sleeping experience. 

• Lightweight and quieter than a traditional air 

pad. 

• Quick and easy inflation, deflation and 

adjustment 

• Anti-microbial 

• PillowLock system 

• A stuff sack that doubles as a pump, a repair 

kit and a spare valve insert included. 



sea to summit Aeros Ultralight Pillow $59.99 

The Aeros Ultralight pillow has been refined from 

three design principles to be light, compact, and 

comfortable. 

• Curved internal baffles create contours that cradle 

your head 

• Inflate pillow in a couple of breaths with the multifunction 

valve 

• Easily secured to any Sea to Summit sleeping mat 

through the Pillow Lock System 



SPARK ULTRALIGHT 

SLEEPING BAG SERIES 

ZIP 

KATHMANDU Icarus Hybrid Sleeping Bag 

$449.98 

If you often go camping in damp 

conditions, the Icarus Hybrid 

Sleeping Bag may be your best 

choice. It's made with a blend of 

synthetic and down fill, suitable 

for three seasons. The Icarus will 

prevent dampness around your 

feet while keeping your core body 

snug. For a warmer sleeping bag, 

go for the Icarus. 

WWW.KATHMANDU.CO.NZ 

exped Lite -5 Down Sleeping Bag $599.99 

Highly compressible bag made with lightweight 

and refined inner and outer fabrics that feel 

velvety soft. 540g of high-performance 800-loft 

European goose down fill for warmth. Rated 

minus 8°C (Lower Comfort Men, European 

Standard). 990g 


KATHMANDU Pegasus Hybrid Sleeping Bag 

$399.98 

Your next camping or backpacking 

trip will be more comfortable with 

our latest Pegasus Hybrid Sleeping 

Bag. Excellent throughout three 

seasons, the Pegasus has a blend 

of synthetic and down fill. It'll 

prevent moisture saturation around 

your feet and give your core body 

warmth - plus the adjustable hood 

will lock in heat when it's cold. 


ULTRALIGHT DOES NOT 

MEAN ULTRA-TIGHT 

The technical mummy shape provides adequate 

girth combined with excellent thermal efficiency. 

SUPERIOR WARMTH-TO-WEIGHT RATIO 

Ultralight 10D shell & 7D liner fabric are 

ultra-compressible materials for cutting-edge 

packability and warmth. 

BAFFLES DESIGNED FOR WARMTH 

Each Spark model features baffle construction 

fine-tuned to the temperature rating. 

ZIP 

WEIGHT SAVING #3 YKK ZIPPER 

Ultra-lightweight zippers in two lengths ideal 

for the conditions the bag will be used in. 

ULTRA-DRY Down TM 850+ 

Responsible Down Standard (RDS) Certified. Ultra-Dry 

Down treatment protects the high-lofting down from 

external moisture & internal condensation. 

Kiwi Camping Morepork 1 Deluxe Swag $529.00 

Sleep soundly under the stars with the Kiwi 

Camping Morepork 1 Deluxe swag. Durable, 

waterproof, and easy to set up, it's perfect for 

outdoor adventurers. 


Find a stockist: southernapproach.co.nz 

Engineered to keep you warm at the lightest 

weight and smallest compressed size. 

The Spark Ultralight Mummy Sleeping Bag Series spans everything from an ultralight down-filled 

liner, to a mid-winter fast-and-light sleeping bag. Each model uses premium materials and 

no-frills design to provide cutting-edge performance. 


southernapproachnz 

Find the right Spark Sleeping Bag for you

GLERUPS The Boot Honey Rubber $199.00 

Made from 100% high-quality wool that provides 

exceptional comfort & warmth. glerups boots are 

soft and cosy, allowing you to rejuvenate your 

tired feet after a long day. 

glerups boots provide comfort, durability, grip, 

and breathability, making them an excellent 

choice for your outdoor adventures. 

Go with natural this season, go with glerups. 

WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ 

Gasmate Cast Iron Single Ring Burner $79.99 

Experience powerful cooking on-thego 

with Gasmate's Cast Iron One Ring 

Burner. With 8,600 BTUs of cooking 

power, it's perfect for camping and 

heating up griddles. 

WWW.GASMATE.CO.NZ 

Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove 

& Pot Set $149.00 

For quick boiling when 

you need it! A super 

lightweight aluminium 

stove with quick boil 

technology, piezo ignition 

and accessories all 

packaged in a handy 

mesh carry bag. 


Gasmate 1 Burner Country Cooker $69.99 

Experience efficient outdoor cooking 

with Gasmate's Single Burner Country 

Cooker. Crafted from durable cast iron, 

it's perfect for camping and packs a 

powerful 11,800 BTU punch. 


KATHMANDU Valorous Unisex 58L Pack 

$449.98 

This versatile 58 litre Valorous 

Unisex Pack is designed to 

support you on multiday rambles 

and city escapes. The Crossflow 

AirXF+ harness suspends off 

your back, so expect comfy 

cushioning and cooling air flow. 

The Valorous’ ergonomic hip belt 

will naturally cup your hips while 

you enjoy peace-of-mind from 

the anti-tamper loops securing 

your stuff. The J-shaped side zip 

and wide U-shaped, two-way zip 

let you pack and access your 

gear easily. Get out there with 

the Valorous and restore your 

life balance. 


EXPED Lightning 60 Pack $349.99 

Comfortable, lightweight, 

roll-top backpack for fast-andlight 

multi-night adventures. 

Features include a lightweight 

suspension system that allows 

for micro adjustments for a 

custom fit, roll-top closure 

for added waterproofness 

and extra gear, zig-zag side 

compression and an over-thetop 

compression strap.1150g 



SALEWA WILDFIRE CANVAS $299.90 

The breathable recycled cotton and 

hemp canvas upper is protected by 

a full 360° TPU rand. Our 3F system 

with nylon-coated Kevlar® cables 

provides additional support and 

greater stability at the heel, while 

ensuring a precise fit. The dual density 

eco Ortholite® footbed promotes 

superior cushioning, and the Pomoca 

outsole offers secure grip during light 

hiking activities. 

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 305 g 

(W) 256 g (pictured) 

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA 

SALEWA WILDFIRE 2 $329.90 

The Wildfire 2 is a lightweight, agile 

and precise tech approach shoe with 

a breathable recycled synthetic mesh 

upper, and a 360° protective rand. 

Equipped with climbing lacing for 

fine adjustment in the toe-area and a 

lateral net system with Kevlar® cables 

for better overall performance and 

sensitivity. The POMOCA® outsole 

ensures good grip on rock in both dry 

and wet conditions. 

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 355 g (W) 

305 g (pictured) 


keen NEWPORT H2 $229.99 

Part water sandal, part hiker. The 

original hybrid sandal, 50 million 

adventures and counting. 

WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ 

Keen NXIS EVO Waterproof boot $349.99 

Meet the light & fast version of our iconic 

hiker. Room-for-your-toes comfort and toe 

protection, now with a running shoe feel in 

waterproof, engineered knit. 


keen RIDGE FLEX WATERPROOF BOOT $369.99 

What if every step could feel easier? We 

took the trusted fit of our iconic Targhee 

hiker and added KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX 

for easier days on the trail. 


KEEN TARGHEE III WATERPROOF BOOT $329.99 

We carried over the fit, durability, and 

performance of our award-winning Targhee 

waterproof boot and took its rugged looks 

to a new dimension. 


SALEWA ORTLES ASCENT MID GORE-TEX® $799.90 

Featuring a thick suede leather upper, 

SALEWA® 3F system with steel cables and 

reinforced TPU rand make it exceptionally 

robust and durable. The waterproof GORE- 

TEX® Insulated Comfort membrane has an 

integrated insulation layer. There’s a stiff 

carbon-loaded nylon fibreglass insole and 

dual density expanded polyurethane midsole. 

The semi-auto crampon compatible Vibram® 

Alpine Guide sole unit is engineered for 

traction, durability and reliability on difficult 

terrain. 

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 850 g (pictured) 

(W) 660 g 


SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 MID GORE-TEX® $599.90 

Introducing the next generation of our 

bestselling alpine trekking boot. This hardwearing 

suede leather classic with a 360° 

full protective rubber rand is even lighter and 

more flexible. Equipped with a waterproof, 

breathable GORE-TEX® Performance 

Comfort membrane, a dual density expanded 

PU midsole, and the self-cleaning Vibram® 

WTC 2 outsole. 

Fit: WIDE / Weight (M) 600 g (W) 470 g 

(pictured) 



outdoor research SuperStrand LT Hoody $399.99 

Ultralight and packable featuring VerticalX SuperStrand 

insulation that is just as soft, light and lofty as 700-800 fill 

power down. Ripstop nylon shell and lining for abrasion, 

water and wind resistance, stows in its own pocket. Great 

4-season performance. 


KATHMANDU Bealey Men’s GORE-TEX Jacket $399.98 

Get plenty of benefits at a great price with 

our latest Bealey Men's GORE-TEX Jacket. 

At home in the surrounding hills, the Bealey 

is your outdoor inspired jacket that's made 

from the world's most recognisable, high 

performance fabric. Get the protection 

against rain and wind that you deserve. 


Patagonia NetPlus® Down Sweater $459.99 

Patagonia's iconic Down Sweater is now 

warmer, softer, more durable, and the shell 

is made with 100% recycled fishing nets. 

This redesigned jacket is lightweight and 

windproof. The shell – NetPlus® 100% postconsumer 

recycled nylon ripstop – helps 

to reduce ocean plastic pollution. Plus it's 

insulated with warm 100% Responsible 

Down Standard certified down. Available in 

M's, W's and a range of colours. 

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ 

Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody $149.99 

A technical fit paired with a highly protective fabric, the Black 

Diamond Alpenglow Hoody offers coverage on multi-pitches, 

high-alpine approaches and hot crag sessions. 

• UPF 50+ sun protection 

• BD.cool—mineral-based in-fibre cooling technology 

• Underarm gussets for added range of motion 

• Under-the-helmet hood 

• Polygiene odour control treatment 

Men’s & Women’s styles available. 



Black Diamond Vision Hybrid Hoody $469.99 

Optimised for movement in the mountains, the Vision 

Hybrid Hoody is an active insulation layer that breathes 

and moves with you while keeping you warm. 

• Reinforced durability in high-abrasion areas 

• 60g PrimaLoft Cross Core Insulation 

• Two harness-compatible zipper hand pockets 

• Single pull, climbing helmet-compatible hood 

• Right-hand stow pocket; Zippered chest pocket 

• Single internal drop pocket 

• Integrated hem elastic draft gasket 

• Elastic cuffs 

Men’s & Women’s styles available. 



Chase the Light this autumn in 

Kathmandu’s new moleskin range. 

An OG fabric that’s tougher than flannel, versatile, 

comfortable and warm. 

Shop in-store and online at kathmandu.co.nz 

@kathmandugear #outthere 


Thomson and Scott - Noughty Sparkling 

Chardonnay $24.95 

Noughty non-alcoholic organic 

vegan gluten free sparkling 

Chardonnay. 2.9g of sugar per 

100ml, 14 calories per glass, less 

than 150mg per litre of sulphites. 

WWW.CLEARHEADDRINKS.CO.NZ 

BACK COUNTRY CUISINE: 

The first thing you’ll notice is that the front 

label on their pouches have changed for the 

better by adding Health Star Ratings and 

energy, protein, fat and carbs per pouch. They 

have also improved the readability of our back 

labels.Back Country Cuisine is available at 

leading retailers. For more information or to 

find your nearest stockist visit: 

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz 

Thomson and Scott - Noughty Sparkling 

Rose $24.95 

Noughty non-alcoholic organic 

vegan gluten free sparkling Rosé. 

4g of sugar per 100ml, 18 calories 

per glass, less than 150mg per 

litre of sulphites. 


Apple & Berry Crumble $13.99 

A sweet mix of freeze dried apples and 

berries topped with a delicious gluten 

free cookie crumb. 

3 Health Stars - Gluten Free 

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ 

Thomson and Scott - NOUGHTY – Rouge 

(Syrah) $24.95 

Noughty Rouge - less than 0.5% 

ABV. 14 calories per glass, 2.5g of 

sugar per 100ml, less than 150mg 

per litre of sulphites, gluten free. 


tasty chicken mash $9.99 - $14.99 

With smoky flavoured freeze dried chicken, 

cheese and vegetables. 

3.5 Health Stars - Gluten Free 

Available small serve (90g) or regular 

(175g) 


INSTANT PASTA $4.99 

Just add boiling water for perfectly cooked 

pasta. 

3.5 Health Stars 

Sizes – Family 120g 


equip 

yourself! 

Low Prices Everyday 

Low Prices Everyday 

backcountrycuisine.co.nz 

Shackleton Blended Malt Scotch 

Born from Adventure: Shackleton 

Blended Malt Scotch is based on 

the spirit supplied to the 1907 British 

Antarctic Expedition, expertly crafted 

using a selection of the finest Highland 

Single Malt Scotch Whiskies. Available 

at various Liquor Retailers . 

WWW.GLENGARRYWINES.CO.NZ 

JÄGERMEISTER COLD BREW COFFEE 

Inspired by the innovative, 

everchanging drinks scene, 

we instinctively knew how a 

drop of Jägermeister and a 

backbeat of cold brew coffee 

could transform any night. The 

enviable result? A brand-new 

mix. JÄGERMEISTER COLD 

BREW COFFEE. A unique 

fusion of JÄGERMEISTER’s 56 

botanicals and intense cold brew 

coffee. 

WWW.LIQUORLAND.CO.NZ 

LOCAL DEHY CAJUN JAMBALAYA $17.50 

A punchy peppery vegan 

twist on a Southern American 

classic! Refuel after a day's 

adventuring. Vegan, totally 

delicious, in home compostable 

packaging. 

WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ 

Free NZ Shipping on 

orders over $150 for 

members 

Members Earn Equip+ 

Loyalty Points 

local dehy hummus $8.00 

Sundried Tomato and Red 

Pepper, also available in 

Beetroot and Zesty Lemon. 

Perfect for lunches on the trail. 

Freeze dried. Vegan. Home 

compostable packaging. 

WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ 

Free NZ Shipping on 

orders over $150 for 

members 

Members Earn Equip+ 

Loyalty Points 

shop online or instore 

equipoutdoors.co.nz 

62 Killarney Road, 

Frankton, Hamilton, 

New Zealand 

P: 0800 22 67 68 

E: sales@equipoutdoors.co.nz

FEED YOUR ADDICTION 

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and 

development in online stores over the past 5 years. 

We are dedicating these pages to our client’s online stores; some 

you will be able to buy from, some you will be able drool over. Buy, 

compare, research and prepare, these online stores are a great way to 

feed your adventure addiction. 

Waterfront accommodation on Nydia Track, Marlborough, NZ 

www.onthetracklodge.nz 

Meals bursting with flavour, combined with home compostable 

packaging, means you really can have it all in the mountains. 

Designed by ‘foodies’ for maximum plant-based deliciousness 

and wrapped in earth positive, lightweight, packable pouches. 

www.localdehy.co.nz 

Never have a dead phone 

again! Because now you can 

charge straight from the Sun 

with SunSaver. Perfect for 

that week-long hike, day at 

the beach, or back-up for any 

emergency. Check us out at: 

www.sunsaver.co.nz 

Building versatile and reliable gear so you 

can adventure with purpose. 

www.keaoutdoors.com 

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor 

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best 

brands across New Zealand & the globe. 

www.bivouac.co.nz 

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel 

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals & 

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time. 

www.merrell.co.nz 

Temerature. Taste. Transport. 

Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle. 

www.hydroflask.co.nz 

Kathmandu offers a premium range of outdoor 

clothing, footwear, accessories and gear for men, 

women and kids. 

www.kathmandu.co.nz 

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment 

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place 

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, 

outdoor clothing and more. 

www.livingsimply.co.nz 

Our mission is to produce 

the best quality beers 

possible across a range of 

flavours and styles and to 

have fun doing it! 

www.dcbrewing.co.nz 

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional 

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping. 

www.patagonia.co.nz 

www.glerups.co.nz 

glerups shoes, slippers 

and boots are known for 

their exceptional comfort 

and unique design. 

Over the years we have 

perfected the wool mix 

by blending Gotland 

wool with quality wool 

from New Zealand 

farmers. 

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers. 

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz 

Stocking an extensive range 

of global outdoor adventure 

brands for your next big 

adventure. See them for travel, 

tramping, trekking, alpine and 

lifestyle clothing and gear. 

www.outfittersstore.nz 

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV, 

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents, 

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more. 

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz 

KEEN Footwear New Zealand delivers sustainable style and 

outdoor performance for outdoor, hiking or city streets. 

www.keenfootwear.co.nz 

Supplying tents and 

camping gear to Kiwis 

for over 30 years, Kiwi 

Camping are proud to 

be recognised as one of 

the most trusted outdoor 

brands in New Zealand. 

www.kiwicamping.co.nz 

Marine and industrial supply story 

www.lusty-blundell.co.nz 

Our very own online store where 

you will find hard goods to keep you 

equipped for any adventure. 

www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz 

With stores in Clyde and 

Cromwell, Bike it Now! is 

your access point to the 

Central Otago Bike trials: T 

> Lake Dunstan Trail 

> Otago Central Rail Trail 

> Roxbourgh Gorge 

and more... 

www.bikeitnow.co.nz 

New Zealand’s first online 

store solely dedicated to 

Non Alcoholic adult drinks. 

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz

c a n a d a 

WELCOME TO WHISTLER 

There are a few things that make up the 

best mountain biking in the world. Friends, 

terrain & town and Whistler has all of these 

in spades. In New Zealand our biking 

mecca is Rotorua, in Canada it’s Whistler! 

Whistler is one of the largest resorts in 

North America, with some of the best liftaccessed 

park riding with epic downhills 

and wicked cross country trails. Plus an 

abundance of lakes and parks where you 

can swim, hang out on a beach and hire 

kayaks or paddle boards. 

With two villages that give you the choice 

of Whistler’s bright lights or Creekside’s 

mellow pubs and cafes. Canadian 

hospitality means even if you’re there 

on your own it won’t be for long. We 

love staying at Creekside as it’s a bit 

quieter than Whistler Village, has a nice 

atmosphere, direct gondola to the top of the 

bike park and is close to 2 beautiful lakes. 

The terrain is huge with over 4900 vertical 

feet of lift-serviced trails separated into four 

main zones: 

Fitzsimmons Zone 

The original and the best, containing trails 

of all levels, the Fitz is where biking dreams 

become real. Home to Whistlers’ most 

famous lines, A line, B line, Dirt Merchant, 

Canadian Open DH and 5 skills centres this 

zone is a must ride. 

Garbanzo Zone 

Known as the big brother of Fitz, 

this zone is above the Fitz zone 

and caters to high-level riders with 

steeper technical terrain on trails 

like Goats Gully, as well as long flow 

trails with jump features like Blue 

Velvet. 

Creek Zone 

The newest zone is accessed 

directly from the Creekside Gondola 

and is recommended for advanced 

and expert riders. This zone can be 

used to ride back down to Creekside 

or access the Fitz or Garbanzo 

Peak Zone 

For advanced riders, requiring an 

extra lift and ticket. This is a must 

ride area for at least one day as 

it gives you 5,000 feet of vertical 

descent from the top of Whistler 

Peak. The Top of the World trail 

starts at 2182m and descends 

736m over 6km through Whistler’s 

stunning alpine environment. 

Another trail you can do is Top of 

the World to Khyber, Kashmir, Kush 

and Big Timber which is 16km’s, with 

1857m of descent from the top of 

Whistler to the Creekside base! Epic! 

Beyond Whistler Bike Park there 

is a maze of cross-country trails to 

explore. It’s best to hit up a local 

bike shop for the most up-to-date 

map or download Trail Forks on your 

phone so you don’t get lost. Local 

ratings do err on the hard side so if 

you’re riding blue’s expect them to 

feel like black trails. With 250km’s of 

trails, it’s easy to find something for 

everyone. 


Top of the World Trail, Whistler, BC, Canada

Experts at adventure travel since 2000 

Your mountain bike travel specialists, with over 

20 years experience ensures you have a fantastic 

trip, crafted by people who really care. 

Image by Greg Rosenke 

Above: A bonus to biking in Whistler are the incredible views / Inserts: Whistler Bike Park / Whistler Rock Drop 

Lost Lake Trails 

Just 5 minute’s ride from Whistler this area 

has some excellent trails which naturally join 

up to make a loop. Try Tin Pants, Fountain of 

Love, Pinocchio’s Furniture, Jelly Gum Drop 

Roll, Central Scrutinizer, Grand Wazoo and 

finish off at the lake for a swim. 

Westside 

Cascading down Sproatt Mountain, Whistlers 

westside includes classic single track like 

Danimal, Lord of the Squirrels and AC/DC. It 

is accessed by climbing Flank Trail from Lake 

Alta. 

Whistler North 

Starting just north of the village surrounding 

Green Lake this area is a mecca for tech, 

gnar, rock slabs, rock rolls and drops. With 

many of the trails pushing expert and above 

its an area where expert riders can test their 

technical skills. 

Blackcomb 

An area with rogue trails built by keen 

enthusiasts Whistler has adopted many of 

the trails and maintains them as part of its 

network. Long, fall-line, rooty single tracks 

are a feature of Blackcomb. The higher you 

climb the more challenging the trails, offering 

some fantastic tech. 

Cheakamus 

South of the village adjacent to the stunning blue, 

glacier fed river and lake which gives this area its 

name. This area’s easy accessibility has terrain 

for all rider levels. Trails such as Farside and 

See Colours & Puke, offer fast flow, berms and 

easy jumps. You can then advance to AM/PM 

and Duncans Trail for more advanced rock rolls, 

punchy pinch climbs and bigger jumps. 

Over the 40 years that I have been mountain 

biking I have seen the sport evolve from a leftfield 

pastime where enthusiasts hurtled down fire 

breaks on basic bikes, to a sport where expensive 

highly specialised bikes are used on groomed, 

formed trails in dedicated bike parks! 

The great thing about mountain biking is that it 

can be done anywhere, with just about any bike, 

all you need is a bunch of mates, good terrain 

and a place to drink beer and tell lies afterwards! 

Modern bikes mean you can do more! Bigger 

jumps, faster down hills, easier climbs and ride 

longer with a higher level of safety. The E Bike 

has opened mountain biking up to more people 

and also means you ride harder for longer. 

So if you love mountain biking and want 

to escape from cold muddy mountain bike 

destinations in the New Zealand winter, check out 

Whistler! 

New Zealand owned and operated 

"We live what we sell" 

0800 623 872 

info@madabouttravel.co.nz 

madabouttravel.co.nz 


v a n u a t u 

DIVING IN VANUATU 

Huge caverns and drop offs, abundant marine life, beautiful 

bright corals, giant sea fans and world-famous wrecks all 

contribute to Vanuatu’s reputation as a diving destination. 

It is also one of the best places for divers to see dugongs. 

The landscape beneath the water mirrors that found 

above: mountainous terrain with plunging cliffs, grottoes 

and overhangs, huge caves and intricate interconnecting 

underwater tunnels and chasms formed by frozen lava. 

Vanuatu's coral reefs offer spectacular diving options 

Diving Vanuatu’s Coral Reefs 

Vanuatu is an island archipelago consisting 

of approximately 82 relatively small islands. 

The main islands from largest to smallest 

are; Espiritu Santo, Malakula, Efate (home 

to the capital Port Vila), Erromango, Ambrym 

and Tanna. The islands are volcanic in origin 

and as a consequence, Vanuatu’s shoreline 

is mostly rocky with fringing reefs and little 

continental shelf, dropping rapidly into the 

ocean depths. This gives rise to some 

exciting diving on reefs and walls, as well 

as some excellent snorkelling opportunities, 

particularly on Tanna. 

Diving Vanuatu’s Wrecks 

Vanuatu became independent as recently 

as 1980, being jointly administered by 

France and Britain, and named the New 

Hebrides prior to that. Being an allied 

territory, it supported a large American 

base during WWII and we have them to 

thank for the wrecks of the SS President 

Coolidge, the USS Tucker and Million 

Dollar Point. 

Where to Dive… 

There are three main regions for diving in 

Vanuatu; Efate, Espiritu Santo and Tanna. 

Efate: Port Vila and Tranquillity Island 

The island of Efate is surrounded by very 

pretty fringing reef, a few wrecks and a 

stunning cavern called the Cathedral, 

with stand-out dive sites including Owen’s 

Reef on Tranquillity Island and West Side 

Story near Hideaway Island Resort. 

Diving Port Vila is easy, with a range of 

operators to choose from, each of which 

pick up and return divers to their hotels. 

Many of the best dive sites are only 

minutes away. Diving is well supervised 

and varied, with several wrecks, 

bommies, drop-offs and caverns in the 

protected waters of the bay. 

Espiritu Santo 

Diving Espiritu Santo is synonymous with 

diving the SS President Coolidge, but it’s 

not the only dive in town. Wreck diving 

options also include the infamous Million 

Dollar Beach and the USS Tucker, and 

for coral lovers, there’s plenty of fringing 

reefs, drop offs and coral gardens to 

explore. 

Tanna 

Diving Tanna is very different from 

diving Port Vila or Santo, as Tanna is a 

more remote volcanic island – with an 

active volcano. Diving Tanna, you will 

experience crystal clear water, colourful 

hard coral reefs and an amazing topology 

of swim throughs and blue holes. 

3.30pm “SS President Coolidge – Santo” 

SS President Coolidge 


s a m o a 

ADVENTURE TO SAMOA 

Samoa offers so much more than 

the Pacific perfection of white sand 

and blue seas. You'll find a world of 

excitement and adventure, things to do 

and places to visit, natural wonders, a 

rich culture and history. Here are our 

top five picks are. 

Alofaaga blowholes 

The island of Savai’I is larger and less 

populated than the mainland and is 

home stunning natural attractions. Two 

ferries run between the main land and 

Savai’i to three times a day. There is a 

lot to explore Savai'i, but top of the list 

is seeing the Alofaaga blowholes on 

the southwest coast where the correct 

swell delivers a massive display of 

vertical fountains. 

Afu Aau Waterfall 

Samoa offers stunning white sand 

beaches and beautiful clear water but 

also some amazing natural features 

like waterfalls. Don't miss the breathtaking 

Afu Aau waterfall. Surrounded 

by lush rainforest, this water is in a 

stunning setting and easily accessible 

and a great place to swim and explore. 

To Sua Ocean Trench 

The To Sua Ocean Trench is one 

of the most well know attraction in 

the whole of Samoa. Basically two 

giant sinkholes connected by a lava 

tube, one without water, the other 

a 30m deep swimming hole. The 

swimming hole is accessible by a 

steep ladder - the descent can be a 

little nerve-wracking, but it leads to an 

unforgettable experience at this oneof-a-kind 

spot 

Falealupo Rainforest Canopy 

Suspended 40m above the canopy 

floor and stretching 30m across, the 

Falealupo Rainforest Walkway (also 

known as the Canopy Walk) is a 

suspension bridge leading to a tall 

Banyan tree, from here can look out 

over the top of the Rainforest. Within 

the Falealupo Rainforest Preserve 

you will find a canopy walkway. About 

10-meters above the canopy floor 

there is a bridge built between 2 large 

trees. You can also climb to a viewing 

platform in a 230-year old banyan 

tree. Included in admission is entry to 

nearby attractions Moso’s Footprint 

and the House of Rock. 

Afu Aau Waterfall 

Robert Louis Stevenson Museum 

Robert Louis Stevenson, the author of 

Treasure Island and Dr Jekyll and Mr 

Hyde, spent his final years in Samoa 

and there is a museum in the country’s 

capital of Apia dedicated to him. Due to 

his many positive interactions with the 

local community, Stevenson became 

very popular and also a well-respected 

figure to the local community. He passed 

away on December 3, 1894 at the age 

of 44. His colleagues and people that 

worked for him buried him on top of 

Mount Vaea (within Vailima) at a spot 

overlooking the sea. You can also visit 

his grave if you decide to hike up the 

picturesque Mt Vaea. 

Robert Louis Stevenson Museum 

To Sua Ocean Trench 

"Samoa is 

not only a 

beautiful 

place to 

visit but 

has many 

adventures to 

be found" 

Sale’aula Lava Fields 

Sale’aula Lava Fields 

Formed by molten lava following the 

eruption of Mt Matavanu between 1905- 

1911, the flow devastated five villages, 

A second eruption poured yet more lava 

onto the field, covering an area of over 

100 square kilometres (40 square miles). 

Five villages were buried, although like 

most things in Samoa the lava was 

slow-moving so there were few fatalities. 

This is one of the island’s most popular 

attractions and a unique natural wonder. 

Beautiful Samoa awaits you, and we are welcoming our international aiga 

with open arms! Experience Samoa’s untouched beauty, unique cultural 

experiences and rich heritage. Self drive, bike or stroll through the wonders 

that make this island life one to cherish just like the locals do. 

Contact Ross and Frances at: office@outdoor.co.nz to organise a custom tour or to join a group.www.outdoorsamoa.com 


n e w c a l e d o n i a 

c a l e d o n i a 

NEW CALEDONIA: 

AN OCEAN ADVENTURE 

Less than 3 hours from Auckland lies a unique island paradise that offers 

you the perfect ocean adventure experience. Nestled in the Pacific Ocean, 

New Caledonia is home to the world’s largest lagoon, crystal-clear water, 

and countless white, sandy beaches. But New Caledonia is so much more 

than a chill holiday destination, it’s also perfect for travellers wanting an 

ocean adventure. 

Within a single day, you can explore the UNESCO World Heritage-listed 

lagoon, meet rare sea creatures under the surface, glide over the ocean, 

and learn a thrilling new water sport. The diverse experiences on offer in 

New Caledonia make this amazing archipelago and holiday destination the 

ideal place to have your next ocean adventure. 

Sailing 

If you want to navigate a larger watercraft, 

sailing in New Caledonia is a must. Loved by 

locals and visitors, there’s a variety of sailing 

experiences to explore. From outings that 

last just a few hours to voyages lasting days, 

beginner and advanced sailors will be amazed 

at the countless ways to discover the ocean. For 

seasoned sailors, set out on a voyage around 

the Isle of Pines for an incredible journey that’ll 

enhance your appreciation for this corner of the 

globe. Beginners can spend the day cruising 

around the world’s largest lagoon on either a 

catamaran, yacht, canoe, or motorboat, enjoying 

the sights of colourful reef fish and marine 

animals as they sail past. In New Caledonia, 

you’re sure to find a sailing adventure that 

matches your interest and preferred pace. 

Snorkelling/diving 

Go below the surface in New Caledonia to 

discover the beauty of the country’s coral, 

animals, and marine life. New Caledonia is 

home to the second-largest coral reef in the 

world and a UNESCO Heritage-listed lagoon 

and home to a wide range of marine animals. 

The lagoon is a sanctuary for sharks, whales, 

and turtles and is home to the world’s thirdlargest 

population of dugong - so you can tick 

swimming with sea life off your ocean adventure 

bucket list. Navigate the reef with a snorkel or 

rent diving equipment for the ultimate thrill and 

be completely mesmerised by the exceptional 

biodiversity. Meet the most incredible marine life 

face-to-face as you glide through coral pinnacles 

sheltering tropical fish. 

Beach chilling 

For those after a more relaxing ocean 

adventure, look no further than New Caledonia’s 

endless beaches. The crystal white sand, 

dazzling sunshine, and azure blue sea make 

New Caledonia’s coastline among the most 

peaceful on Earth. Explore the country’s 

numerous hidden coves and have the beach 

all to yourself to enjoy. Go on an adventure 

into the mysterious west side of the island to 

find the small bays of Tortues (Turtles Bay) and 

Amoureux (Lovers’ Bay). In the east, the length 

of the Forgotten Coast is also accessible by 

boat where you can easily find small beaches 

hidden away from the main roads and crowds. 


Ocean Events Happening This Year 

With pristine water and consistent weather conditions, New 

Caledonia is a hotspot for water sports. Every year, the 

destination hosts a variety of watercraft races that are sure 

to get your blood pumping whether you’re a spectator or a 

participant. 

Airwaves Nouméa Dream Cup 14th – 18th November 

Every year, the PWA (Professional Windsurfing Association) 

hosts its annual finale, the Dream Cup, in Nouméa, New 

Caledonia. In the Dream Cup, the world’s top windsurfers 

compete over one week in the Caledonia lagoon across 

different disciplines including slalom, freestyle, and speed 

racing. www.pwaworldtour.com 

GET CLOSER TO 

adventure 

Sail in an Outrigger 

You cannot leave New Caledonia without sailing around Upi Bay 

in a traditional outrigger canoe. In this once-in-a-lifetime cultural 

experience, you will board a Melanesian outrigger to sail for 

one and a half hours across the spectacular Upi Bay. Follow the 

current to the stunning Isle of Pines, concealed between huge 

coral rocks that seem to float on the turquoise lagoon. Make sure 

you also keep a lookout for turtles, rays, and dolphins! 

Windsurfing 

Begin your adventure with the destination’s most popular sport – 

windsurfing! Boasting great conditions and spectacular scenery, 

New Caledonia windsurfing is ideal for beginners and experienced 

thrill-seekers alike. One of the world’s best windsurfing locations 

is Anse Vata Bay in Nouméa is renowned for its consistent winds 

and flat water, perfect for beginners. New Caledonia is filled with 

shallow, protected waters and endless, sandy beaches, offering 

you a chance to try your hand at this thrilling sport. 


Défi Wind Super Stars 20th – 23rd November 

The Défi Wind Super Stars event gives amateurs an 

opportunity to race against the pros, with the top performers 

able to proceed to the main event, the Défi Super Stars. 

Participants include Olympic champions, top PWA riders 

and new talents, so we guarantee the event will have your 

heart racing. www.pwaworldtour.com 

BlueScope Race 19th November 

Organised by the Association Nouméa Glisse (ANG), the 

Bluescope Race welcomes all water sports enthusiasts. 

Over 2 days, between the Water Sports Centre and 

Amédée Lighthouse, catamarans, dinghies, cruisers, 

kitesurfing, windsurfing, kayaks, and stand-up-paddle 

boards race along New Caledonia’s coast for pole position. 

This exhilarating race is a must-see in the New Caledonian 

sporting calendar. www.ang.nc 

Travellers’ one-stop shop for booking activities to explore 

the lagoon is the Maison du Lagon. You can hire scuba 

diving gear, rent a boat for a day, go whale watching, rent 

jet-skis or excursions to the islands around Noumea. And 

for more information about the destination: 

www.newcaledonia.travel 

newcaledonia.travel

NIUE: 

n i u e 

This is noughty 

Thomson and Scott 

Noughty Sparkling Chardonnay 

non-alcoholic organic vegan 

sparkling Chardonnay, 

dealcoholized to retain the 

rich flavour. Premium non-alcoholic 

sparkling wine Certified organic, 

vegan and halal. Low sugar, Low 

calorie, Gluten Free 

Niue could well be the adventure capital of the 

Pacific Islands? Niue has all bases covered 

for the adventure seeker, including some great 

events for those that want a tropical holiday with 

a twist. Located in the middle of Tonga, Samoa, 

and the Cooks, Niue is serviced by Air New 

Zealand via a short three and half hour flight from 

Auckland and uses the NZ dollar. 

Visitors have their choice of small private 

beaches, lagoons and swimming caves where the 

likelihood of someone disturbing you is almost 

nil. Experiences on offer include swimming with 

whales (July-September), Dolphins or there is 

world class fishing and spearfishing on offer. 

Massive cave systems and various walks are 

found all over the Island that can be explored 

with ease via well signposted tracks many with 

well maintained showers and toilets. There is also 

no sediment in the water because of the coral 

structure of this atoll so diving and snorkeling 

here is a staggering 80 metre visibility. 

The night life is limited but given Niue is also 

the world’s only Dark Sky Nation you can just 

watch the stars and enjoy the serenity. As they 

say you will arrive as a visitor and leave as a 

friend in this place having met your share of the 

1500 residents that live there by the end of your 

holiday. 

Niue Tourism and Wildside Travel are partnering 

again to bring you ‘Ride the Rock Week’ and 

‘Rockman – Adventure Races’. These are a 

social, fun week of organised events with plenty 

of leisure time as well to experience everything 

else Niue has to offer. 

Ride the Rock Week (June 2023 and 2024) 

will see pedal powered visitors compete for some 

great prizes and lots of laughs. After settling into 

your accommodation, you will have a welcome 

‘Island style’ BBQ dinner and get briefed for the 

week. A guided island tour will help you know 

what to expect and followed by a race around 

the island roads (60kms), another across the 

island bushtracks and a Rogaine / Treasure Hunt 

race all blended with plenty of leisure time to 

experience other activities and the culture at your 

own pace. 

Rockman Adventure Races 

(November 2023 and 2024) 

Following a similar format to Ride the Rock 

week this will have a variety of swim, bike, run 

combo events including a Round the Island ride, 

Orienteering Bush run, a Bike Rogaine-style race, 

an Ocean Swim and a swim-bike-Run adventure 

race. There is even an afternoon social nine-hole 

golf & bowls competition for a bit of variety. For 

both events modern mtb bikes are available for 

hire or bring your own. 

If travelling with a group or events isn’t your thing 

then just head to Niue for an adventure break 

ideal for the active relaxer or you can of course 

just sit back and soak in the sun! 

www.niueisland.com 

www.airnewzealand.co.nz 

www.wildsidetravel.nz 

New Zealand’s first online store solely dedicated to 

Non -Alcoholic adult drinks. No matter your reason...we’ve got you covered: 

Beers - Wines - Spirits - RTD’s - Ciders - All delivered to your door. 

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz 

RUN10023 

Arrive as a visitor and leave as a friend. No crime, 

no traffic and no queues. Relax or explore. Swim, 

fish and dive in the clearest waters in the pacific. 

The world’s only Dark Sky Nation welcomes you 

to the way life used to be; the way life should be. 

www.niueisland.com

Plateau Lodge 

A l p i n e R e s o r t 

Escape to the Wilderness 

Terrace Restaurant & Bar Open daily 

Tongariro Alpine Crossing Shuttles from the door 

Backpacker to Superior Family Accommodation 

Alpine Hiking Gear Hire on-site 

Skotel Alpine Resort | SkotelAlpineResort 

Ngauruhoe Place | Whakapapa Village, SH 48 

www.skotel.co.nz | info@skotel.co.nz 

+64 7 892 3719 | 0800 756 835 

Close access to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Whakapapa ski field 

and numerous cycle trails 

www.plateaulodge.co.nz | Tongariro National Park 

17 Carroll Street, National Park Village 

Ruapehu 

Ph: 07 892 2993 

Hike and Bike in The Tongariro 

Skibiz @ The Alpine Centre, National Park 

Boots 

Hiking Poles 

Packs 

Rainwear 

Sleeping Bags 

Whirlpool Suites | Double Spa Rooms | Queen & King Size Beds | 

2 x Conference Rooms | Breakfast Restaurant | Free Wireless 

Broadband | Air-Con/Heat Pumps in all Units | Gym 

All your hiking 

essentials 

available for hire! 

ebikes now available 

For local Mountains to Sea trails | 

Fishers Track | Marton Sash & Door and more… 

bookings and availability ph: 07 892 2717 

www.thealpinecentre.co.nz for online bookings

Feed your adventure! 

Vegan 

Sustainable 

Totally delicious 

Order online: www.localdehy.co.nz 

LOCAL DEHY 

FOOD FOR THE HILLS HILLS 

MOTHERS DAY ADVENT GIFT BOX 

RUN10023 

Arrive as a visitor and leave as a friend. No crime, 

no traffic and no queues. Relax or explore. Swim, 

fish and dive in the clearest waters in the pacific. 

The world’s only Dark Sky Nation welcomes you 

to the way life used to be; the way life should be. 

Contact: info@wildsidetravel.nz | 027 436 9025 

Keep powered on any adventure 

www.sunsaver.co.nz 

Filled with 14 individually wrapped products (worth $219) we’ve hand 

selected from small New Zealand businesses. This lets her open one new 

gift every day, from the 1st to 14th of May (or open them all at once) 

www.skyecandleandbodycare.co.nz

“Escape ordinary” 

Caring luxury | Local flavour | One of a kind 

Mountain bike clean up area and a secure mountain bike storage area available 

1191 Pukaki Street, Rotorua 

p: +64 7 348 4079 | w: regentrotorua.co.nz 

A digital currency 

designed for everyday 

payments 

qoin.world 

S.A Shuttles are a specialists when it comes to Auckland Airport shuttle 

services. We pick-up passengers from the Airport and deliver to; hotels, 

motels, CBD and the suburbs (door to door). This service is available to 

meet every flight arriving into Auckland Airport. 

• BOOKED shuttle services to meet flight 

• On demand shuttle services for group bookings 

• Direct shuttle for individual needs 

• Corporate Transfers for Business Client 

Available to download on 

We also do tours around the North Island | www.southaucklandshuttles.com | bookings@sashuttles.com | 0800 300 033 (Toll free)

FREEDOM IS ELECTRIC 

THE ALL-NEW 

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