FURTHER

autumn/winter 2022
shopping in brooklyn w/
BEABADOOBE
your personal guide to
SECOND HAND
SEPTEMBER
how to elevate your
DEPOP SHOP

Front inside cover

IN THIS ISSUE...
34
22
40
42 18
18
40
22
34
42
Convo with Amanda
Second-hand Sept!!
Shopping with BEA
Make your own ‘fits
Hello to Daintknity
AUTUMN/WINTER | 3

Letter from our Editor
HEYYY, YOU
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WITH LUV,
4 | FURTHER

Editor
Creative Drirector
Jamie Burnett
Patrick Mitchell
EDITORIAL
Features Editor
Managing Editor
Senior Editor
Online Editor
Research Editor
Assosite Editor
Staff Writer
Assistant Managing Editor
Associate Online Editor
Online Editorial Asssistant
Jolyon Lelterman
Jeniffer Johnson
Paul Kix
Amy Traverso
Reed Baker
Rachel Baker
Francis Schwartz
Brittany Mill
Jamie Colbo
David Mashburn
DESIGN
Associate Art Director
Senior Designer
Designer
Special Projects
Excectutive Editor
Senior Editores
Writer/Researcher
Susannah Haesche
Heather Burke
Besty Halsey
Special Projects
Sascha Garlough
Donna Suratt
Brigid Sweeny
RESEARCH & COPY
Associate Reseach Editor
Researcher
Copy Editor
Rebecca Dorr
Travis Dagenis
Hilary Corbet
AUTUMN/WINTER | 5

PIXIES BITE
Eyeelike Match Girl Crop Top $55 Eyeelike Embroidered Heart Skirt $59
6 | FURTHER

Eyeelike Patch Detail Strap Top $55 Eyeelike Raw Edge Maxi Skirt $59
AUTUMN/WINTER | 7

FUNKY
PATTERNS
ANGEL BLUE KNIT TOP
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fugia si namusda ndebis
LIZ LISA BEAR SCARF
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UNIF HEART HEART TOP
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conestinture plitae liqui doles asimet fugia
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AUTUMN/WINTER | 9

CONVERSE KEITH HI-TOPS
Nequi tendesc imolorem diciis denet eaquas
vitatia conestinture plitae liqui doles asimet
fugia si namusda ndebis
POPPY BLUE MESH TEE
Nequi tendesc imolorem diciis denet eaquas vitatia
conestinture plitae liqui doles asimet fugia
UNIF ZEBRA BOOTCUT JEANS
Nequi tendesc imolorem diciis denet eaquas vitatia
conestinture plitae liqui doles asimet fugia
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CONVERSE ORANGE SOLE HI-TOPS
Nequi tendesc imolorem diciis denet eaquas
vitatia conestinture plitae liqui doles asimet
fugia si namusda ndebis
UNIF WHITE MESH OVERLAY
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LAZY OAF MINT MINI
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conestinture plitae liqui doles asimet fugia
AUTUMN/WINTER | 11

UNIF FAUX OXFORDS WW COLORBLOCK BABY TEE BRANDY BROWN KNEE CARGOS
12 | FURTHER

BERHSKA MILITARY SKIRT MINI BERSHKA BABY TEE UNIF FAUX OXFORDS
AUTUMN/WINTER | 13

ALL
ABOUT
OUTFIT
14 | FURTHER
REPEATING

we’re taught
that rewearing is
fashion faux pas
It’s time to ditch
the unhealthy idea
In a culture shaped by fast fashion, one of the biggest modern-day sins
you can commit is to wear the same outfit on TikTok or Instagram more
than once. Whilst you’d have thought that clothes were purchased to be
worn again and again, in the world of online content creation, your wardrobe’s
purpose is to warrant a break in scrolling and incite the all-important
“like” from a follower. Even sustainable and slow fashion influencers
rarely rewear their looks in their quest for constantly updated content.
The stigma around rewearing clothes is deeply ingrained. Research
shows that 61% of Brits wouldn’t rewear their Christmas party outfit 12
months later, and a survey of 2,700 people saw 49% of respondents
report that they have felt self-conscious about repeating outfits at work.
In 2019, the Business of Fashion reported that one in three British women
consider garments to be old when they have been worn just once or twice.
When did this stigma around rewearing clothes become so prevalent?
News sources have long been gleefully reporting whenever they
have “caught” celebrities including Helen Mirren, Mindy Kaling, or Kate
Middleton repeating their outfits. And with our own fashion choices regularly
showcased online in recent years, it’s unsurprising that the desire
for ever-updated looks has translated into our wardrobes.
When we succumb to this pressure to maintain a constantly updated
wardrobe, the fashion industry achieves its aim of selling us more products
and making a greater profit. On average, items of clothing are worn
just seven times before they’re discarded. Embracing outfit repeating
is a great way to resist the capitalist ideology that new is always better.
AUTUMN/WINTER | 15

Outfit repeating is caring
Outfit repeating is caring
Outfit repeating is caring
How can we challenge the idea that rewearing
your clothes is a fashion faux pas? We might
start by noting that rewearing and outfit repeating
does not mean you have to look the same
every single day, though that could be a cool
flex if you do it right.
Here are five tips to
reframe how you think
about your wardrobe
and outfit repeat endlessly
without sacrificing
your love of clothes.
Being confident in your repetitive outfits when
everyone around you is desperately trying to
switch up their clothes at the cost of the planet
is one small action you can take to counter the
tides of fast fashion.
1. Use accessories to your advantage
No outfit truly is the same when you bring
accessories into the mix. Changing up the details
can bring new energy to what you wore
yesterday and maybe the day before.
Firstly, try mixing up the jewellery you style
your outfit with — earrings, rings, bracelets, and
necklaces can all make a statement or add a subtle
sheen to your look. When it comes to your hair,
using a scrunchie or silk scarf to accessorise can
add drama. The add ons that make you excited
about that same jumper-and-jeans combination
could be a stylish belt or patterned socks.
Consider where the focus of your outfit is —
maybe your scene-stealing oversized hoops are
hogging the limelight today. Next week, it could
be a silk scarf worn as a necktie. The key here is
to focus on what accessories you already have
in your wardrobe: let them do the talking while
you reach for base layers time and time again
2. Reject the notion that clothes only have one
purpose
The whole fashion industry thrives off the
16 | FURTHER

“
Loving your clothes
deeply is a great way to
inspire yourself to wear
them to literal pieces.
Maybe you inherited an
item from a friend or
family member, and it
holds special meaning.
It makes rewearing a
no-brainer.
categorisation of clothes, but a lot of it is fiction
to simply sell you more clothes. By telling us that
these are work trousers and those are casual
pants, they double their profits. One way to
challenge that late capitalist lie is by rejecting
those boundaries. If you overlook these often-redundant
categories, you’ll discover endless opportunities
for rewearing the same items without
getting bored.
For a day at the office, you could reach for a
velvet shirt but layer it over a polo neck — or
choose a summer vest underneath an unbuttoned
blouse. You could even try a night-out
silk slip dress worn over a long-sleeved t-shirt.
When it comes to party outfits, your everyday
wardrobe can work wonders if you reconsider
its uses. Bralettes may be just as skin-covering
as your regular going-out tops, so why not wear
lingerie to the club with some high waisted jeans?
If you’re going for a fancy dinner date, your silk
pyjama top may not look out of place as your
outfit’s main course.
Catherine Jia is a slow fashion influencer
whose page @project.catherine promotes rewearing
your favourite clothes. She recommends
disregarding the season when creating your
next look.
“Try to style clothing pieces that are specifically
intended for the opposite season you’re
currently in,” she says. “You could wear a bikini
top underneath a coat to spice up your outfits
in winter or try knee-high boots with a pair of
shorts in summer.” Jia recommends learning
different ways to tie a t-shirt as an easy starting
point to come up with fresh and versatile looks
with one basic piece. Here’s ten different ways
to wear one top.
Discover the lost art of sewing your own clothes
Sewing your own clothes is a time-consuming
process—but investing hours into creating an
item guarantees you’ll have far more of a connection
with it. When I go on a night out, I often
wear the same white velvet top I sewed myself
because I created it with parties in mind. My
friends may have seen the same look multiple
times, but they’ll indulge me with compliments
over and over again.
Miranda Griffith is a blogger who shares her
sewing projects, tips, and inspiration on @mirry_maker,
also discussing why rewearing her
home-sewn garments brings her so much joy.
Her dungarees have become staples.”I sewed
them a few years ago, and I’ve only had to make
one minor repair so far,” she says. “Best believe
I’ll wear these until they are threadbare or can
no longer be mended.”
The skills you learn sewing your own outfits
means you’ll be able to make quick repairs, too.
Miranda believes that “the care and time spent
sewing a timeless piece of clothing plus being
able to repair it when needed means that your
handmade wardrobe could last decades.”
Build a long-term relationship with your closet
and you won’t want to break up
Victoria Frausin, a coordinator at Sewing Café
Lancaster and a textile activist, advises us to
“notice, connect, and appreciate what you have
in your wardrobe. How did that yellow top get
there in the first place? Was it a present from
someone you love? When was the last time
you wore it? Maybe for that scary exam where
you ended up doing so well?” When it comes
to our clothes wearing away, Victoria advises
finding beauty in the rips in our favourite items:
“Mending is a way of documenting as well. A
hole in a pair of trousers that was made when
hiking with friends on a glorious sunny day—or
a mismatched button that had to be replaced
because the original one got lost at a festival.”
Loving your clothes deeply is a great way to
inspire yourself to wear them to literal pieces.
Maybe you inherited an item from a friend or
family member, and it holds special meaning.
If you buy less often and wear more regularly,
you’ll find yourself developing relationships that
go beyond seven wears. Paying gratitude to the
journeys our clothes have been on with us (or
maybe even their previous lives in the case of
pre-loved fashion) helps foster that connection
and makes rewearing a no-brainer.
Think of the future of your clothes
When you’re tempted to throw away or donate
an item of clothing you’re getting bored with,
consider where it will actually end up. It may be
popular belief that charity shop donations will
quickly find a new home, but most donations
end up in the trash, too. About 85% of unwanted
textiles in North America end up in landfills. The
problem, of course, is not thrift stores, which
are the most sustainable way to shop. The issue
is when fast fashion brands sell us on this
idea that donating or reselling our clothes is an
excuse to buy more. No amount of purchasing
and donating can ever solve our fashion crisis.
We must transform our relationship with our
clothes for the planet to survive. Amidst a sea
of constantly updated fast fashion, rewearing
the same items time and time again is one of
the most revolutionary actions you can take.
AUTUMN/WINTER | 17

A CONVERSATION WITH AMANDA QUACH
Amanda Quach, AKA @virghoe_xoxo, is the big
sister we all need. At just 19 years old, Amanda
seems to have already mastered the art of being
unapologetically herself and looking absolutely
fabulous while doing it. Miss Virghoe
has expanded her following significantly, while
making her own jewelry, thrifting, filming aesthetically
pleasing TikToks and so much more.
In Sheesh Mag’s interview with Amanda, she
shares how she developed her own personal
style by thrifting pieces both in and out of her
comfort zone. She denies the existence of the
“fashion no-no”, as she herself is not afraid to
dabble in any print, color or aesthetic. Amanda
is here to give us all her best tips and tricks.
18 | FURTHER

Let’s hear about your love story with fashion!
Have you always had a passion for fashion or
is this a new love?
AMANDA QUACH: Freshman year of high
school is when I started to find my style and
participate in trends. I’ve always been that girl
that likes to just do her thing. So it’s less about
fashion itself and more just being able to wear
what I want. During quarantine, I saw that people
started making outfit videos and I was like, “the
fuck?” I can do the same thing. So, that’s how I
started. I didn’t imagine it becoming my job, but
I’m really happy that I’m able to do something
that I really enjoy while making money.
What does fashion mean to you? How do you
use it as a creative outlet?
AMANDA QUACH: In high school, I honestly
had a really rough time, especially towards
the second half of high school. I started literally
wearing the same exact thing. Every single day.
I was depressed and I didn’t care about what I
was wearing. After graduating, I started… to heal?
I started to wear what I wanted to wear. Fast
forward to today, I’ve gained quarantine weight,
but I haven’t let that hold me back. Being able
to dress the way I want to dress, and showcase
a funky, vibrant, kind of persona makes me ten
times more confident than if I were to wear a
T-shirt and jeans. Fashion makes me feel confident
and more myself.
Is there anything about fashion that frustrates
you? Is there anything you wish you could
change about the fashion industry?
can’t leave the house without?
AMANDA QUACH: Yes. I would say my green
Unif cardigans. I know green is super in right
now, but even then, I love them so much. I’ve
had my first Teddy Unif green cardigan for over
two years now, and I don’t ever see myself letting
it go. Those pieces are my absolute favorites,
as well as my accessories like chunky jewelry.
Where do you pull inspiration from? Biggest
style icons?
AMANDA QUACH: I know some YouTubers
like Lohanthony did get me into thrifting. Enya
also definitely played a part in my love for UNIF.
However, for the most part I go thrifting because
as a plus size person, I can’t participate in trends
as easily as everyone else does. Thrifting is a
little bit more accessible. I can find pieces I want
to wear from a selection that fits me. Sometimes
thrifting is not really trendy or in-style, but it still
makes me feel good. As long as it’s stuff that I
know will stay in my closet
Is there such a thing as a “fashion no-no”?
AMANDA QUACH: Honestly, I don’t think
there is. For instance, mixing patterns could be
considered a “fashion no-no”, but I love to mix
prints and colors. Mixing gold and silver is not
that big of a deal as people make it out to be. I
don’t think it ever looks flashy, but other people
might think so. I guess “fashion no-no’s” aren’t
really a thing for me. Why create barriers for
yourself? I have had moments where I do feel
like I need to follow all of these trends to stay
relevant. Recently, I’ve realized that I don’t need
to do that at all. I realized that not every trend
is going to be for me. It’s a waste of money to
completely revamp your wardrobe to follow a
trend that you might not like in a couple months.
There’s some trends I do like to participate in, like
AMANDA QUACH: When I first joined TikTok,
the “indie kid” aesthetic was a huge trend. I kind
of participated in it by titling some of my videos
as “indie”, but I never really resonated with it.
That was the start of me realizing that seeking a
certain aesthetic is a waste of money and time.
Why buy something for a particular aesthetic
when you can be every aesthetic? Find your
personal style and find what you actually want to
wear instead of just buying what everyone else
is buying. There’s this “crowd mentality,” where
people buy one thing because everyone else
is buying it. I think it creates an unhealthy habit
for everyone at least.
How would you describe your style?
AMANDA QUACH: I would just say the biggest
word to describe my style is funky. I like different
textures and patterns. Some days I want to be
retro, or other days I want to dress more 90s.
It’s mainly just funky and vibrant.
Do you have any signature items or pieces you
AUTUMN/WINTER | 19

statement piece necklaces and chunky jewelry.
As long as it’s stuff that I know will stay in my
closet for a good amount of time.
You radiate badass energy. Do you have any
tips on how to be unapologetically yourself?
How do you combat self-doubt?
AMANDA QUACH: I mean, the easiest thing
that I would say is don’t give a fuck about everyone
else. Recently, I went to my local movie
theater and literally, I don’t know why, but everyone
was looking at me. Maybe it’s because
people knew me, maybe it’s because people
thought I was fat, or didn’t like my outfit. But
what I did is I turned that attention from possibly
negative to positive. Everyone’s looking at me,
not anyone else. If you have negative thoughts,
you can give them a positive spin. Everyone says
if you have haters, you’re doing something right.
I totally agree with that. Regardless of the negative
comments I might get, I just keep moving.
I know that this makes me feel good, so I’m not
going to let them make me feel any different or
make me doubt myself. Some days I do have
issues with confidence but it’s not because of
comments like that. I still put on a cute outfit and
know that I’m doing something right.
Any tips for becoming more confident with
experimenting with your style?
get some crocs on. Platform Crocs. I love my
platform Crocs. They’re my favorite. You can
put funky jibbitz on them and customize them
how you like. I don’t know why they’re not a
trend… but you know what, good because they
are my thing!
Where do you hope your fashion takes you?
Dream opportunity? Anything you’re working
on?
AMANDA QUACH: I hope that I can still be
active on social media and continue to expand
my following. I’ve been thinking about starting
a clothing or jewelry line. I’ve been making jewelry
and I’m going to start making baby tees.
However, I do want to eventually have a stable
job and do social media marketing. But that’s
kind of my ultimate goal. To make a sustainable
clothing line. That’s just so far in the future but
it’s very much a dream of mine.
Follow Amanda on Instagram @virghoe_xoxo
and TikTok @virghoexoxo!
JEWELRY
AMANDA QUACH: If there’s a style or item that
you’re not comfortable with, I would definitely
pair it with something that you’re comfortable
with. That way, at least some part of your outfit
is something that you’re kind of familiar with.
One by one, you can build that confidence and
add more pieces out of your comfort zone over
time. There are going to be styles that might
not work for you, but by thrifting and trying on
clothes, you find out what your style is.
What impact do you hope to have on your audience?
How do you want your fashion to make
your following feel?
AMANDA QUACH: Well it definitely all started
with me doing my thing and my following expanded.
I’ve grown close to my followers and
I definitely feel like a big sister to them. I want
them to be as confident as I can be. I hate when I
get comments where people say “I want to wear
what you wear” or “I live vicariously through you.”
You can have this life ya know? You can go thrift
a cute, funky outfit too. It’s not unattainable at
all. People really underestimate themselves.
Favorite outfit of all time?
AMANDA QUACH: My favorite outfit would be
any of my miniskirts, a baby T and a UNIF cardigan.
It’s comfy, colorful, and it doesn’t make
you look lazy. So, you know, just throw that on,
20 | FURTHER

BOLD MAKEUP
ANIMAL PRINT
SUNNIES
AUTUMN/WINTER | 21

SHOPPING WITH
BEABADOOBEEEE
Bea Kristi’s mind is elsewhere. Specifically, the 22-year-old
better known as Beabadoobee is preoccupied with a dress in
the window of a vintage shop that she passed on her way from
the venue where she’ll perform tonight. The plan had been to
discuss her upcoming record, Beatopia, at a nearby wine bar,
but it’s hard to pass up an opportunity to go shopping with a
veritable style icon who’s appeared in Marc Jacobs campaigns.
Today, she’s wearing low-rise jeans that overflow onto her
sneakers, and a plain black halter top that reveals an assortment
of tattoos: a Peanuts panel on the inside of one arm, a
doodle of kitten face on her knuckle, a spindly pink butterfly
at the top of her sternum.
22 | FURTHER

AUTUMN/WINTER | 23

EABADOOBEEBEABADOOBEEBEABADOOBEE
EABADOOBEEBEABADOOBEEBEABADOOBEE
24 | FURTHER
EABADOOBEEBEABADOOBEEBEABADOOBEE

The singer-songwriter just completed a brief
run of North American shows alongside
PinkPantheress and Halsey, and arrived in
New York very late last night to play a show
around Governors Ball. She is visibly tired, but
becomes animated when describing the bizarre
conclusion to this mini-tour. “We didn’t actually
play the last show because of a tornado,” Kristi
explains. Scheduled to take place at Maryland’s
Merriweather Post Pavilion, the outdoor venue
got completely flooded by rain, forcing fans to
huddle for comfort in the stands; somewhere
along the way, a stagehand kicked a squirrel into
the water as if it were a furry football. An animal
lover with an Instagram account dedicated to
red pandas, Kristi looks legitimately horrified
as she rewatches a viral video of the incident.
The long road to Beatopia begins with the metaphorical
kicking of another small creature. After
Kristi’s family emigrated from the Philippines to
London when she was 3, she retreated into her
own imaginary world called Beatopia, including
a detailed alphabet and carefully named continents.
One day, she left a map of the realm at
her desk before heading to a violin lesson. When
she returned to the classroom, a teacher had
pinned her drawing to the wall. “He was like, ‘Do
you have anything to tell us, Bea?’” she recalls
with a grimace. “I was a little 7-year-old girl and
everyone started laughing at me.” Ashamed,
she pushed Beatopia to the back of her mind
for years.
That sense of alienation persisted through
adolescence, especially at the all-girls Catholic
school where she was one of the rare Southeast
Asian students. In 2017, after Kristi was kicked
out of high school due to a combination of bad
grades and behavior, her father bought her a
guitar in the hopes that songwriting would pull
her out of the doldrums. The first thing she ever
wrote, a two-chord love song called “Coffee,”
became an unexpected hit. The track’s intimate
sweetness appealed to the Canadian rapper
Powfu, who sampled the track on his viral breakthrough
“Death Bed (Coffee for Your Head),” and
Beabadoobee’s knack for sticky hooks landed
her with Dirty Hit, the London-based label behind
the 1975. After a handful of buzzy, fuzzy EPs, in
2020 she released her debut album, Fake It
Flowers, a collection of ’90s-inspired indie-pop
nostalgia.
For its follow-up, Kristi and guitarist Jacob
Budgen worked out of a little room attached to
the same London studio where they recorded
Fake It Flowers. The process of writing Beatopia
into existence served as an opportunity for Kristi
to accept and heal from childhood trauma. “I am
finally at a place where I can speak about things
in a much more positive light and not dwell on
the past as negatively as I had,” she says. The
recording process also pushed Beabadoobee
out of her comfort zone regarding collaborations.
She admits she used to be a “very closed” musician,
but her friends in the 1975 have helped
with that after they worked together on a 2021
EP. On Beatopia, Matty Healy and George Daniel
worked on several songs, with Healy contributing
writing to the moody devotional “Pictures of Us.”
Kristi often sings from a place of solitude,
even when she’s singing with others. The
dreamy PinkPantheress team-up “Tinkerbell Is
Overrated,” where she befriends the spiders
living in her attic bedroom, was written during a
particularly stir-crazy moment in quarantine. “At
one point I joked that this album might as well
be called weed and shrooms,” Kristi says with a
laugh. “I was the biggest stoner I had ever been
in my life at that point.” There’s something a little
resiny about the entire album, which sounds like
a shoegaze sensory bath, but the most obvious
evidence of this is opener “Beatopia Cultsong,”
a burst of easygoing psychedelia born from a
late night studio hang featuring some pals and
a bongo or two.
By now, we have arrived at The Dress, a cream
frock that a modern version of Degas’ ballet
dancers might rock on a night out. After checking
the price tag and then her bank account, Kristi
considers the store’s other options, all of which
AUTUMN/WINTER | 25

are black, navy, and off-white. Although she has
dyed her hair a number of loud shades over
the years—she memorialized her “blue-haired
phase” in “I Wish I Was Stephen Malkmus” — she
prefers a darker aesthetic. “Muted is the way to
go,” she declares, before darting over to a pair
of Mary Jane platforms that are far too large
for her size-5 feet. She pops into a dressing
room with several variations of black miniskirts
and emerges in a textured number that bubbles
around the hem. “I’m so indecisive, it’s the Gemini
in me,” she says. She ends up wearing the skirt
onstage that night.
On the way to our next destination, the NYC
thrifting institution Beacon’s Closet, Kristi gushes
over the eternal hotness of Nelly Furtado, whose
pre-Timbaland work inspired the track “Sunny
Day.” Inside, as Kristi begins to sift through the
rack of skirts, several employees come to pay
their respects; neither bangs nor a blue medical
mask can disguise the trademark smattering of
freckles that cover the bridge of her nose. One
offers to retrieve a few options from the back,
and promptly returns with a plaid micro mini
and a knee-length black silk slip that Kristi buys.
THRIFTING
IN
Golden hour has arrived in full force, and
seemingly every Y2K revivalist in the tri-state
area has descended on the neighborhood in
anticipation of the Beabadoobee show. Kristi
is stopped at every corner by surprised fans
dressed like disciples of the late Japanese streetstyle
publication FRUiTS — fishnet arm warmers,
color dipped pigtails, chunky shoes — and
patiently takes pictures with each person who
asks. “I have a tooth gem too,” one exclaims with
a wide smile, in reference to the tiny rock that
studs Kristi’s right incisor.
Later that evening, Kristi performs to an audience
full of those same fashionable fans. They’ve
tossed up a red panda with a Filipino flag tied
around its neck, as well as their cellphones in
hopes of a selfie. (For her part, Kristi would never
turn her iPhone into a projectile — “but I would
throw my bra at Jeff Buckley if he were alive,”
she joked.) Near the end of her set, she launches
into “10:36,” a sugar rush featuring a mumbled
confession: “I have this thing where I can’t really
be by myself.” While Budgen tears into a guitar
solo, Kristi gestures for the audience to divide
in half. As the band hits the gas on the explosive
final chorus, Kristi picks up her guitar, and
the audience smashes together like magnets,
a joyous mass of togetherness.
DOWNTOWN
26 | FURTHER
CHICAGO

AUTUMN/WINTER | 27

AS
EXPLA
28 | FURTHER

AST
HION
INED
AUTUMN/WINTER | 29

While the demand for
fast fashion hasn’t
completely dissipated,
it’s clear that retailers
need to adapt.
If you’ve bought clothes in the past decade,
odds are that at least one item came from a fast
fashion brand. Stores like Zara and H&M, two
of the largest retailers in the world, still hold a
stronghold over most people’s shopping habits,
even with the rise of online shopping brands.
These big, brightly lit stores seemed to pop up
in malls overnight sometime in the late 2000s,
carrying everything from skinny jeans to work
blouses to cocktail dresses, often for significantly
less money than stores like Gap or Nordstrom.
Still, these shopping behemoths aren’t without
controversy. Their speedy supply chains rely
on outsourced and often underpaid labor from
factory workers overseas. The process is also environmentally
damaging and resource-intensive,
and to top it off, it’s hard to definitively quantify
the industry’s impact.
More broadly, the blindingly fast pace at which
clothes are now manufactured, worn, and discarded
means that they’ve become more disposable,
more commodities than keepsakes,
and that shoppers are essentially conditioned
to expect a constant stream of new items.
Meanwhile, most people aren’t always aware
of fast fashion’s ongoing problems until a big
news story breaks. With Forever 21 declaring
bankruptcy in September 2019, some fashion
experts say the industry has reached a “tipping
point.” Data shows that customers are also increasingly
driven to buy sustainable products.
While the demand for fast fashion hasn’t completely
dissipated, it’s clear that retailers need
to adapt.
This raises some questions: How did fast
fashion get so popular, and, as the industry is
confronted with changes, what direction will it
move in?
How fast fashion became the new normal
“It’s not just about clothing, it’s about a disposable
society,” Michael Solomon, a consumer
behavior expert, told Vox. According to Solomon,
fast fashion’s development falls in line with globalization
and the logistical efficiency of the 21st
century. “Companies weren’t able to have such
a quick turnaround time, and now with artificial
intelligence, they can be even more efficient.”
In the 1950s, if a woman wanted to purchase
a ready-made dress, she could spend about $9
(or $72 in today’s dollars) to order an item from a
Sears catalog. Today, a shopper could walk into
Forever 21 and buy a simple dress for about $12.
The price of an article of clothing today — along
with the cost of material, labor, and supply chain
logistics required for its creation — is cheap, but
it’s likely not made to last.
“IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT CLOTHING, IT’S
ABOUT A DISPOSABLE SOCIETY”
Zara, which has been credited as having the
first successful fast fashion business model, has
a design-to-retail style of about five weeks and
introduces more than 20 different collections
a year.
Online retailers, which have been dubbed
“ultra-fast fashion,” are even speedier: A report
by Coresight Research found that the site
Missguided releases about 1,000 new products
monthly, and Fashion Nova’s CEO has said that
it launches about 600 to 900 new styles every
week. The rapid rate at which new capsule collections
and trendy designs are being released
only feeds into shoppers’ desire to buy more.
Furthermore, because of social media, the
average person can now publicly document their
life in outfits. The rise of influencer culture and
marketing has opened up a niche for fast fashion
brands, specifically online retailers, to flourish.
30 | FURTHER

Thanks to social media’s constantly changing,
visually-driven nature, brands have developed
a symbiotic relationship with popular celebrities
and influencers, like the Kardashians, who have
the ability to turn whatever they wear into an
instant trend.
These influencers, in turn, drive the fast fashion
economy and affect how normal people think
about their own clothing choices. “When I’m
dressing to go out, I’m dressing to be seen, which
is weird to say because we’re not influencers,” a
20-year-old college student told the New York
Times in a story about Gen Z shopping habits.
Through visual platforms like Instagram,
anyone’s sartorial choices can be scrutinized.
Wearing the same outfit twice then starts to seem
taboo. According to a 2017 survey commissioned
by the London sustainability firm Hubbub, 41
percent of 18- to 25-year-olds feel pressured to
wear a different outfit every time they go out.
Another survey, commissioned by the Barnado’s
charity in 2019, found that British people will
spend up to 2.7 billion pounds on clothes during
the summer that’ll only be worn once.
Fast fashion, then, appears to be the simple
solution to appease our desire for novelty. It’s
much easier to avoid outfit repetition when
clothes only cost $20.
Why it’s been easy for consumers to turn a
blind eye to the costs of fast fashion
Fast fashion has democratized luxury trends
for everyday shoppers (who now have the option
to dress like their favorite influencers), but
it comes at a cost not reflected in its price tag.
In December, the New York Times published a
report on Fashion Nova, the flashy online retailer
of the Instagram age, revealing that factories that
were making Fashion Nova garments were under
investigation by the US Labor Department for
underpaying workers and owing them millions
in back wages.
That revelation is hardly surprising, given how
the brand releases hundreds of styles a week
at ridiculously low prices. Fashion Nova — and
the collective fast fashion ecosystem — was
condemned and criticized online, but the report
seemed to create no significant shockwaves.
Celebrities and influencers — like Cardi B, Amber
Rose, Janet Guzman, and other high-profile
“Nova ambassadors” — who helped build the
retailer’s reputation still endorse it, and people
continue to shop from the brand.
These revelations don’t seem to make much
of a difference to a majority of shoppers, likely
because they have few other affordable options
and the fashion industry at large outsources
clothing production to keep prices low.
In fact, it’s rare for a fashion retailer to lose
a large portion of its customer base over poor
labor practices, although public attention can
pressure it to improve. Most customers have a
selective memory when it comes to buying from
exploitative companies: Research has shown
that most either forget or misremember products
that are unethically made. People also tend to
prioritize ease of purchase and price of an item
over sustainability, according to a 2018 report
that surveyed nearly 700 shoppers ages 18 to 37.
Clothing retailers also can shirk responsibility
through the nature of their production cycles:
They often rely on middleman factories (both
overseas and domestic) to produce clothes,
which allows them to conveniently distance
their brand from wrongdoing. It’s a distinction
fast fashion companies are quick to emphasize,
especially when criticized for perpetuating poor
labor conditions.
For example, in 2017, the Los Angeles Times
These influencers,
in turn, drive the fast
fashion economy and
affect how normal
people think about their
own clothing choices.
AUTUMN/WINTER | 31

reported that underpaid factory workers in Los
Angeles successfully filed wage claims to receive
back pay for their work. Most were producing
clothes for Forever 21, but the company managed
to avoid paying the claims, thanks to a state law
that places the burden on middleman companies.
The Times’ report on Fashion Nova revealed similar
complaints from workers, but the company
has denied the claims as “categorically false.”
These cases are a step forward for underpaid
American workers, but in reality, they make up a
small percentage of laborers who will get properly
compensated for their work. Since the collapse
of Rana Plaza in Bangladesh— an accident that
killed more than 1,100 people, most of whom
were garment workers — apparel retailers have
pledged to ensure safer labor conditions for supply
chain workers. Still, retailers continue to outsource
some of their clothing production to firms
in countries like India, Ethiopia, or Bangladesh
that have lax labor laws, where wages can be
low and working overtime (without additional
pay) is common.
Modern-day consumers are also steps removed
from the labor that’s poured into their
clothes. “We always knew someone who was
in the garment industry ... so you had a person
related to what you were wearing, and you
thought about them,” Dana Thomas, journalist
and author of Fashionopolis: The Prices of Fast
Fashion and the Future of Clothes previously
told The Goods. “Once we removed that emotional
investment from the equation, we cared
less about our clothes. And so then we started
treating them like fast food.”
A move toward sustainability
The rate at which we’re producing apparel is
not sustainable for the environment. While there
is no official research fully encompassing fashion’s
environmental impact, the industry is one
of the world’s most resource-intensive industries.
The production of polyester textiles alone emits
about 706 million tons of greenhouse gases a
32 | FURTHER

year, and hundreds of gallons of water go into
making a cotton garment.
Within the past decade, changing consumer
attitudes, particularly toward sustainability and
corporate transparency, have pushed companies
to reevaluate their labor practices and environmental
impacts. A 2015 Nielsen survey found that
66 percent of shoppers worldwide say they are
willing to pay extra for products or services from
companies with social or environmental impact
commitments. Yet there still is, as the Harvard
Business Review coined it, an “intention-action
gap” between what consumers say and what
they purchase.
Experts think fast fashion doesn’t hold the
same appeal to shoppers as it once did. A 2019
McKinsey report suggests that there’s greater
interest in rental and secondhand clothing, and
that the resale market has the potential to be
bigger than fast fashion in 10 years.
Solomon, the consumer behavior expert,
thinks the time is ripe for what he calls “a green
revolution” among shoppers. The last time that
happened was in 2007, he said, but when the
Great Recession hit, people started to care more
about their pocketbooks than the environment.
“Right now, the fast fashion companies I know
are very worried about this, and they’re making
changes,” Solomon said. “If you even look at
Macy’s, a traditional retailer, they’re now selling
used clothing in stores. That’s a huge change.”
While even the biggest fast fashion brands
are moving the needle towards sustainability,
shifting customer opinions have yet to pressure
them to completely change their ways, said Kate
Nightingale, founder of the fashion consulting
firm Style Psychology.
According to Nightingale, research shows that
customers are not likely to change their shopping
habits out of concern for the environment: “We
don’t have much of a choice in being environmentally
friendly in our purchases. We are almost
conditioned by the fashion industry to keep
buying and buying new things every season.”
“WE ARE ALMOST CONDITIONED BY THE
FASHION INDUSTRY TO KEEP BUYING AND
BUYING NEW THINGS EVERY SEASON.”
Through annual reports, H&M has shown notable
improvements in the material it sources,
renewable electricity used in stores, and the
expansion of its clothing recycling program.
However, the Swedish retailer still struggles with
excess inventory — the retailer was accused of
burning tons of unsold clothes in 2017 — and the
environmental impacts of its production process.
(In fact, it’s common for fashion retailers across
the price spectrum, from Louis Vuitton to Urban
Outfitters, to destroy their inventory, a practice
that’s been heavily criticized by shoppers.)
In July 2019, Zara’s parent company, Inditex,
pledged that it will only use sustainable, organic,
or recycled material in all of its clothing by 2025.
Some people were skeptical of the plan’s impact
and saw it as an example of greenwashing, since
Zara didn’t promise to produce less clothing or
slow down its manufacturing process.
Zara has pledged to make all their fabrics
sustainable by 2025. Whoop-de-fuckin-doo. If
you’re still making 500 garments per a minute
and tearing the earth apart to make your millions
of garments a day, no one cares about your
“sustainable” fabric. Also 2025? Weak sauce.
— Aja Barber (@AjaSaysHello) July 29, 2019
It’s clear that retailers can no longer avoid
addressing questions about their environmental
efforts, but their motives are typically received
with a healthy dose of skepticism.
“Depending on who you talk to, the definition
of what sustainable means will vary,” Mark
Sumner of the University of Leeds told NPR.
“Sometimes you can reduce one particular
environmental impact and, at the same time,
by the actions you’ve taken, you’re actually
increasing the impact somewhere else.”
As green buzzwords and sustainability pledges
grow more common, consumers and critics
need more convincing — especially from fast
fashion brands, whose business model centers
on speedy production. The pace at which these
companies are improving is not enough to alter
the DNA of the fast fashion economy, said
Nightingale, the fashion consultant.
The fashion industry is changing. But is it
changing fast enough? The 2020 McKinsey
report on the state of fashion predicts that revenue
growth will slow and that sustainability will
continue to be a hot topic. It’s no longer enough
for even the largest fast fashion retailers to idly
exist without a sustainable mission statement.
Whether that mission carries any weight to consumers
could determine the brand’s future. Now
that sustainability is at the forefront of many
people’s minds, it’s easier than ever to sniff out
an inauthentic pledge.
“Brands need to realize the impacts they have
on people’s lives and behaviors,” Nightingale
said. “If brands commit to doing business differently,
people will start changing how often
they buy. They just need to be given a good
enough reason to participate.”
AUTUMN/WINTER | 33

34 | FURTHER

HOW TO BEGIN MAKING
YOUR OWN CLOTHES
Starting to make your own clothes can seem daunting at first so we spoke to one expert who’s
not only turned her skills into a digital project, but is now sharing them with other makers too.
It’s #MeMadeMay, a movement begun more than 10 years ago by Zoe Edwards.
Since then, it’s grown into a flourishing month-long celebration and challenge
among indepdent makers to share pieces of clothing they’ve made themselves,
and to push their sewing skills a little further each year.
Lydia Higginson began making her own clothes four years ago, documenting
her progress online through the project Made My Wardrobe. For Lydia,
making clothes is not just a hobby or a handy skill to have; it’s an art form,
a form of self-empowerment and an ever-evolving journey into new forms of
self expression. We caught up with her to find out more about her work, and
find out how we (as beginners!) can get started too.
How did you begin making your own clothes?
My mum taught me to sew when I was a little
girl but my project Made My Wardrobe really
kicked off in 2016. I decided I would take that
year to make my entire wardrobe from scratch
and give away all the clothes I had ever bought
from shops. By the end of the year I had made
over 70 garments. Since then I haven’t looked
back. I now can’t imagine going into a shop and
buying something. It would feel so weird.
What were the first few pieces you made,
and what resources did you have to hand?
When I started Made My Wardrobe, the first
items I made were a bra and pants. It felt logical
because underwear is the first thing you put on
in the morning. It was January so I then went
on to make a wool coat, tailored trousers and
a quilted jumper. At the time I was a member
of the Bristol Textile Quarter (a shared textile
studio in central Bristol) so I had access to an
overlocker and industrial sewing machine and
lots of space to cut out. I have always collected
fabric wherever I go, so I started by working my
way through my fabric stash.
You’ve said that, “the creative process of
gathering fabric, stitching it together and wearing
it, completely transformed the way I feel
about my body.” Why do you think that making
your own clothes can be so empowering?
Firstly, I had to really connect with the shape
and form of my body, not through measurements,
but through feeling every curve and muscle.
Then I had to connect with the way my body
moves through the day. My clothes need to allow
me to cycle to work, sweat, feel sexy, fill my
pockets, dance, bleed etc. Every single day when
I wake up and put on my own art I have to connect
with my inner artist which has completely
transformed the way I feel being in the world.
Has your relationship and the way you feel
towards the items you make changed over
the years?
Yes definitely! I do look back on some things
and think, what was I thinking! Surprisingly, it has
taken me a long time to learn to make basics
well. Just yesterday, I finally made the perfect
shaped tank top for yoga which I have been
meaning to make for ages!
AUTUMN/WINTER | 35

How would you encourage people to begin
making their own clothes?
I spent three years teaching beginners how
to make their own clothes before I released my
own range of patterns so I have tried to cram
the instructions full of helpful tips and tricks. I
think a great way to begin is by coming on one
of my workshops so that you can learn how to
trouble-shoot in a supportive environment. If you
are first starting out at home I recommend buying
one of my kits so that you know you have all the
right materials and haberdashery ready to go.
What would you say are the most common
hurdles and challenges people will come up
against as they learn?
Sometimes when you first start it feels like
your machine hates you, if it keeps getting in a
tangle or the tension goes wild. But once you
know how to love your machine things can really
start to flow. So many mistakes will be made
along the way but the worst that can happen is
you will need to unpick, so no stress.
In recent years your work has taken on
different aspects, like educational work and
theatrical performances. What do you see the
future of the project looking like?
“
So many
mistakes will
be made along
the way but
the worst that
can happen is
you will need to
unpick, so no
stress.
So many things I still want to do! I want to do
more work with teenage girls, teaching them to
sew and connect with their bodies in the process.
I also want to do a series of online workshops
for adults (this should be happening in the next
few months). I want to release a second round of
patterns, and I want to source more sustainable
fabrics to sell alongside the patterns.
As we look to build a more sustainable future
for fashion, do you think a renewed interest in
making our own clothes will be a part of this?
Or do you see this as something distinct from
the wider fashion industry?
I think making your own clothes is a hugely
valuable way of reevaluating your shopping habits.
The creative hit you get from sewing doesn’t
come close to buying something from a rail.
I’ve seen a huge increase in people wanting to
learn to sew. Pinterest has reported a 30% rise
in people searches for ‘how to make clothes.’
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You’ve also said that you want to ‘find accessible
ways of passing on what I learn’ –
what factors do you think play a part in this?
Where are the limitations in regards to clothes
making, and how do you think we can make it
more accessible?
The initial investment of buying a sewing machine
can be a financial hurdle. I would love to
see more open access shared sewing spaces
pop up, similar to what I have seen in the ceramics
industry with co-working studios and shared
kilns. I have run sewing studios like this in the
past and it is a wonderful community resource.
If anyone has a space they would like to give me
to do this again in London, please get in touch!
How do you recommend people source
fabric, if they’re considering working with
eco-friendly materials primarily?
I recommend going organic where possible.
Organic Textile Company (based in Wales) is
a great place to start. Otherwise, ex-designer
dead stock is another option *check out New
Craft House for this).
What are your top tips for people getting
started? And which of your patterns would
you recommend?
I would say the Amaya Shirt or Josie Bra
and Pants are my easiest patterns. But I have
also seen complete beginners make the Greta
Dungarees and Olivia Dress. You can do it! There
is no better time to start than now
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AD
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MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN
S E C O
1 2 3 4
N D
5 6 7 8 9 10 11
H
A N
D
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S E P T M B
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E R
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During the month of September, the
Secondhand September campaign puts preloved
clothing in the spotlight, as people
pledge to only buy secondhand clothing for
the duration of the month. The pledge was
started by Oxfam, who wanted people to rethink
the month that’s usually associated with
Fashion Week and encourage them to shop
second-hand rather than the latest trends for
the approaching Autumn/Winter season.
Shopping secondhand is a practice that has
been around for centuries; once confined to local
charity shops and resale merchants, thrifting
was practiced predominantly by lower-income
families who sourced good quality, low cost items
that would last. Over time, buying second-hand
clothing has gone in and out of style, with peaks
including the anti-fashion punk movement of
the 1970’s and the rise of alternative style in the
1990’s. Recently, pre-loved clothing has gained
popularity as people strive to consume more
consciously and embrace the slow fashion movement,
with e-commerce platforms like Depop,
Vinted and Ebay making it easier than ever to
find high quality pieces at a lower price point.
There are many benefits of shopping second-hand,
that are good for both your purse
and the planet. By resisting temptation to impulsively
stock up on new arrivals and instead
opting for pre-loved items, you are not only saving
money, but building a deeper relationship
with fashion. When you’re no longer chasing
the latest must-have items, you can break free
from the trend cycle and begin to cultivate your
own personal style, which is the key to reducing
overconsumption.
The end of throwaway fashion
Overproduction, overconsumption and waste
continues to be a growing challenge caused
by the fashion industry’s ‘take, make, dispose’
model where mostly non-renewable materials
are extracted, made into products, and ultimately
either sent to landfill or incinerated when no
longer used. While it is estimated that 100 billion
products are made each year, the 2022 Fashion
Transparency Index found that just 15% of brands
disclose data on the quantity of products made
annually, leaving us with no way of understanding
the scale of the situation, let alone how to
tackle it. And despite many brands championing
circular solutions and use of recycled materials,
40 | FURTHER

the Index found that only 4% of brands disclose
the percentage of products designed to enable
closed loop or textile to textile recycling.
Globally, an estimated 92 million tonnes of
textiles waste is created each year and, in the UK
alone, of the 300,000 tonnes of clothing donated
to charity annually, 80% goes to waste. The rise
of fast fashion has made overconsumption and
disposable clothing our new normal, but we as
consumers have the power to change this. By
extending the life of garments you can challenge
the idea of throwaway fashion, and save clothes
from landfill or incineration.
How to take part in Secondhand September
To take part in Secondhand September, first
you can pledge to not buy any new clothes for
the whole month; you can do this on social media
with #SecondhandSeptember and join a network
of conscious individuals, which will help keep you
inspired and motivated throughout the month.
Alternatively, you can write it down and keep it
somewhere you’ll see it; on your mirror, by your
bed, or even in your purse!
Once you have committed to the challenge
you can only buy items that are pre-loved, but
there is no shortage of beautiful, second-hand
items ready to be cherished. When you first start
shopping secondhand, it can be really overwhelming
and hard to know where to start. So
we’ve compiled a list of advice and tips that you
can refer back to this month:
By extending the life
of garments you can
challenge the idea of
throwaway fashion,
and save clothes
“
tips for shopping secondhand:
Find your
personal
style
Challange
Consumption
Loved
Clothes Last
So you’re not overwhelmed by options or
pick items randomly. Don’t just buy something
because it is cheap, actually consider if you really
love the item. Ask yourself questions: will
this item go with the rest of my wardrobe? Can
I imagine it with multiple outfits? Am I willing to
care for it properly? Get stuck in – one of the best
things about thrifting is rummaging through the
rails and discovering something really beautiful. If
you’d prefer to shop online, platforms like Depop,
Vinted and Ebay have thousands of pre-loved
clothes ready to find a new home – if you’re into
vintage, you can find items on sites like Etsy and
ASOS Marketplace
It’s important to remember, however, that
during Secondhand September, what we’re really
challenging is overconsumption. But there
are many ways you can take part that don’t
revolve around shopping. You could attend
or host a clothes swap, exchanging your old
clothes with your friends or your community
to refresh your wardrobes without spending
a penny. You can revisit your own wardrobe
and fall back in love with your existing pieces,
and rethink your personal style by reflecting
on your relationship with fashion and the trend
cycle. Remember, the most sustainable item of
clothing is the one already in your wardrobe.
Taking the time to learn about your clothes
Learn the symbols — on your clothes labels
mean and take the time to care for them like the
good friends they are
Air dry – not just good for the planet but good
for your clothes too! Studies show that tumble
drying can cause significant damage to clothing.
Wash less – our clothes don’t need to be
washed nearly as frequently. Wash an item if it
is visibly dirty and spot-clean it with stain remover
Brush up on your sewing skills – we’re not
expecting you to be able to create a new dress
from scratch, but basic repairs such as hemming,
darning, and replacing buttons.
If you’d like to find out more about caring
for your clothes, check out our Loved Clothes
Last zine through this QR code. We also have a
Pinterest board full of care tips, sewing tutorials,
and DIY inspiration for you to explore. Don’t
forget to share your thrift finds with us as well!
AUTUMN/WINTER | 41

Meet Rebecca, the mastermind behind
Instagram’s “Dainty Knit,” the Korean-based
custom crochet and knit label everyone’s
talking about. Born and raised in Liverpool
and currently situated in Seoul, South Korea,
Rebecca’s eye for the detailed, divine and
dainty have customers begging for more.
say hello to
daintyknit
42 | FURTHER

Rebecca has been a creative since forever, a
girl born to break boundaries. “When I was a
small child, I would always be doing something
creative like dressing up in costumes, drawing,
painting, and sewing outfits for my Bratz dolls.
All I wanted was to doodle and wear princess
dresses everywhere! I always thrived when I
could be creative.” But it wasn’t until 2017 that
her creativity turned into wearable crochet. “I
was studying art and fashion at college. My tutor
encouraged me to learn and showed me crochet
examples in some designer collections. Initially,
I found knitting too tricky, but then picked it up
again in 2021.”
And as it goes, it all began with a bikini. “The
first project I ever completed was a crochet bikini
top. I remember making it while binge-watching
the first Gilmore Girls series, and I finally
completed it after half of the season! Although
the result was a tangled, loose-tension mess.”
But it was from that tangled loose tension mess
that sparks flew. “Knitting is just so relaxing. It’s
a hobby that allows for multitasking, too; knitting
while watching TV or listening to a podcast is the
perfect night in. And it’s also a family hobby! I
learned a lot from my grandma, who learned from
her brothers. My mum and aunty also helped me
a lot with knitting and crochet when I first started.
Knitting has been passed down the generations
in my family, so it will always have a special place
in my heart. Furthermore, I love the community,
especially on Instagram. Everyone is so supportive
and encouraging of each other.”
Beyond the incredible crochet and knit community,
Dainty Knit itself, is a one-woman show.
“I do everything by myself. My work is influenced
by my own personal style and a love for adorable
1960s-2000s style. I always want to create something
new that can’t be found anywhere else.
A Dainty Knit signature is always cute, fun and
unique.” In the age of fast fashion where trends
change with a quick refresh on your FYP, to find
clothing like Dainty Knit, freehand sketched with
deep thought, carefully stitched with love on
cable needles and lovingly constructed with yarn
“
A Dainty Knit
signature is
always cute,
fun and unique.
AUTUMN/WINTER | 43

of care and cotton, is something so incredibly
special.
It’s this attention to detail that allows Rebecca’s
work to catch your eye, even amongst the notable
rise in crochet styles, specifically in this spring
fashion season. “It’s best to often do the opposite
of what everyone else is making,” says Rebecca.
“My designs are often very representative of my
own personal style. If I’m going to incorporate a
current trend into my design, I’m always thinking
of how I can elevate it and make it my own. My
hometown is a huge source of inspiration for me.
Liverpool is so full of different kinds of people
and cultures. Visiting art galleries and exhibitions
is always helpful too. I am very drawn to obscure
and unusual patterns or silhouettes that I have
seen in film costuming or art.”
Being the creative go-getter that she is,
Rebecca is overflowing with ambition, goals, and
wishes for the future of Dainty Knit. “I would love
to launch my own website, and getting more of
my work in print would also be a dream. I hope
to expand Dainty Knit enough to rely on knitting
as my only source of income.” If anyone can do
it, I’m confident that it’s Rebecca.
STAYC
AS SEEN ON
“
My designs are
often very
representative of
my own personal
style. If I’m going
to incorporate a
current trend
into my design,
I’m always
thinking of how I
can elevate it to
make it my own.
NMIXX
AS SEEN ON
To stay up to speed with all of Rebecca’s achievements
and accolades, follow @DaintyKnit on
Instagram (and dm for commissions).
44 | FURTHER
EMMA CHAMBERLAIN

AD
AUTUMN/WINTER | 45

OUR FAVE HANDMADE DEPOPS
OUR FAVE HANDMADE DEPOPS
OUR FAVE HANDMADE DEPOPS
46 | FURTHER

Depop is one of the most popular clothing
sales apps in the world, initially created for reselling
clothing that was no longer a part of your
forever home, it has now become an app for
creatives to self-start their own businesses as
well. Fashion designers from all over the world
have made Depop a safe space to share and sell
their designs that would typically be difficult to
get into retailers. Continue reading for a list of
three homemade Depop shops everyone needs
to follow for exclusive and unique one-of-a-kind
clothing to fill your closets.
Designed by Parsons student Shirley Tang,
Oriens is a handmade clothing line created to
embrace femininity and the power of sexuality.
Oriens “embodies these aspects: of new
horizons, constant evolution, dreams of the future,
fueled by visions behind closed lids and
in darkness.” Using soft colors and raw hems
Tang’s clothing speaks for itself, often making
use of corsets, soft lines, cutout details, and feminine
silhouettes.. With over 15,000 followers on
Depop Tang has caught the attention of many,
including fans at Vogue. She’s designed for huge
celebrities like Rico Nasty and SZA
@oriens_
As a verified Depop seller with over 11,000
followers, Mae Morris has a large audience that
shows her screenprinting business some love.
Screen printed out of Brighton, UK Morris creates
bright and colorful graphics to paint across baby
tees, tank tops, and more. Often printing designs
of iconic faces and funky text, Morris is one of
the coolest artists on Depop to follow.
@maemorris_
Lindsey Vrckovnik is a New York designer
with a booming Depop following. Made out of
Brooklyn, New York Vrkovnik has said to be inspired
by dancewear and intimates while she
is creating her famous knitwear, attempting to
bridge the gap between high fashion and playfulness
with her designs. Creating sweater vests,
cutout tops, lace overlays, and so much more,
her shop is certainly one worth following.
@verconiik
AUTUMN/WINTER | 47

GRANNY SQUARE
HEART
Rnd 1: ch3, 11dc in ring, sist in FL of third ch of
initial ch3. [12dc] All sts in this rnd are made in FLO
DAINTY HEART
Rnd 2: ch3, (tr, dc) in next st, 3dc in next st,
hdc in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st, sc in next st (sc,
ch, sc) in next st, sc in next st. (sc, hdc) in next
st, hdc in next st, 3dc in next st, (dc, tr) in next st,
ch2, sist in sist. [2tr, 8dc, 4hdc, 6sc, 1ch-3. 1ch-2]
Fasten off Colour 48.
SQUARE
Rnd 3: 2dc in each st to end of rnd, sist to
close rnd. [24dc]
Rnd 4: ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in next st,
(2hdc in next st, hdc in next st) 11 times, sist to
close md. [36hdc] Fasten off Colour 45. Join
Colour 19 in first st made in Rnd 4.
Rnd 5: “sc in st ch2, sk next st, (dc, ch2, dc)
in next st, ch2. sk next st**, rep from * to **8
times. [18dc, 9sc, 27ch-2] Fasten off Colour 19.
Join Colour 38 inch-2-sp from last (dc, ch2, dc)
made in Rnd 5.
Rnd 6: ch3, “popcorn in ch-2-sp. ch, sk next st
dc in next ch-2-sp. ch, dc in next st, ch, dc in next
ch-2-sp, ch, sk next st**, rep from to 8 times,
sist to close mnd. [27dc. 9 popcorns, 36ch-1]
Fasten off Colour 38
Join Colour 19 in the first ch-1-sp after any
popcorn in Rnd 6 with
a standing tr. This counts as first tr in Rnd 7. All
sts in this md are made in ch-sp only
Rnd 7 “(2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-sp. 2dc in next 3
ch-sp. (dc, hdc) in next ch-sp. (hdc. dc) in next
ch-sp. 2dc in next 3 ch-sp, rep from * to **3 times,
sist to close rnd. [16tr, 56dc, 8hdc, 4ch-2] Fasten
off Colour 19. Join Colour 48 in any ch-2-sp of
Rnd 7 with a standing hdc. This counts as first
hdc in Rnd 8.
Rnd 8: “(2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch-2- sp, hdc
in next 20 sts”, rep from *to** 3 times. [96hdc,
4ch-2] Fasten off Colour 48. Join Colour 45 in
any ch-2-sp Rnd 9: ch, “(sc, ch2, sc) in ch-2-sp,
sc in next 24 sts”, rep from * to 3 times. [104sc,
4ch-2] Fasten off Colour 45.
48 | FURTHER

S OF THE MONTH
FLOWER
Rnd 1: ch3, 11dc in ring, sist in FL of third ch of
initial ch3. [12dc] All sts in this rnd are made in FLO
Rnd 2: ch3, (tr, dc) in next st, 3dc in next st,
hdc in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st, sc in next st (sc,
ch, sc) in next st, sc in next st. (sc, hdc) in next
st, hdc in next st, 3dc in next st, (dc, tr) in next st,
ch2, sist in sist. [2tr, 8dc, 4hdc, 6sc, 1ch-3. 1ch-2]
Fasten off Colour 48.
SQUARE
Rnd 3: 2dc in each st to end of rnd, sist to
close rnd. [24dc]
Rnd 4: ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in next st,
(2hdc in next st, hdc in next st) 11 times, sist to
close md. [36hdc] Fasten off Colour 45. Join
Colour 19 in first st made in Rnd 4.
Rnd 5: “sc in st ch2, sk next st, (dc, ch2, dc)
in next st, ch2. sk next st**, rep from * to **8
times. [18dc, 9sc, 27ch-2] Fasten off Colour 19.
Join Colour 38 inch-2-sp from last (dc, ch2, dc)
made in Rnd 5.
Rnd 6: ch3, “popcorn in ch-2-sp. ch, sk next st
dc in next ch-2-sp. ch, dc in next st, ch, dc in next
ch-2-sp, ch, sk next st**, rep from to 8 times,
sist to close mnd. [27dc. 9 popcorns, 36ch-1]
Fasten off Colour 38
Join Colour 19 in the first ch-1-sp after any
popcorn in Rnd 6 with
a standing tr. This counts as first tr in Rnd 7. All
sts in this md are made in ch-sp only
Rnd 7 “(2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-sp. 2dc in next 3
ch-sp. (dc, hdc) in next ch-sp. (hdc. dc) in next
ch-sp. 2dc in next 3 ch-sp, rep from * to **3 times,
sist to close rnd. [16tr, 56dc, 8hdc, 4ch-2] Fasten
off Colour 19. Join Colour 48 in any ch-2-sp of
Rnd 7 with a standing hdc. This counts as first
hdc in Rnd 8.
Rnd 8: “(2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch-2- sp, hdc
in next 20 sts”, rep from *to** 3 times. [96hdc,
4ch-2] Fasten off Colour 48. Join Colour 45 in
any ch-2-sp Rnd 9: ch, “(sc, ch2, sc) in ch-2-sp,
sc in next 24 sts”, rep from * to 3 times. [104sc,
4ch-2] Fasten off Colour 45.
ROUND DAHLIA
AUTUMN/WINTER | 49

@bunnywhol
@kitsuknit
READER SPOTLIGHT
@hunnyglow
Make sure to tag us on instagram
or email us for a chance
to have your creations featured
in the next issue!
50 | FURTHER