Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 6

Modern Sewing Starts Here is the digital publication which features articles, reviews and handy tips for anyone with an interest in contemporary sewing This month we bring you: Pick of the latest sewing patterns Dress Code ... 4 knit/jersey dress patterns that transcend the season Trendsetter - add style to your creations Jennifer Moore from Monaluna Fabrics talks about sustainable fabrics Christmas wearables - fun to make & wear? ... you decide Christmas decorations with Cloud9 Fabrics Tinsel range Secret Stitching + much more ...

Modern Sewing Starts Here is the digital publication which features articles, reviews and handy tips for anyone with an interest in contemporary sewing
This month we bring you:

Pick of the latest sewing patterns
Dress Code ... 4 knit/jersey dress patterns that transcend the season
Trendsetter - add style to your creations
Jennifer Moore from Monaluna Fabrics talks about sustainable fabrics
Christmas wearables - fun to make & wear? ... you decide
Christmas decorations with Cloud9 Fabrics Tinsel range
Secret Stitching
+ much more ...


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<strong>Edition</strong> 6 – September 2019<br />

<strong>Modern</strong><br />

sewing<br />

starts here...<br />

New season....<br />

new things<br />

to sew<br />

Layering<br />

Making this style work<br />

for your home-sewn<br />

autumn wardrobe<br />

The latest fabric collections<br />

from Art Gallery Fabrics<br />

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk<br />

Hamburger Liebe’s new Park Lane<br />

capsule fabric collection full of<br />

coordinating stunning substrates<br />

www.hantex.co.uk 1

The Wilder Gown ... a loose, flowy,<br />

tiered dress that can be sewn up in<br />

a range of different styles!<br />

With raglan sleeves and tie-up<br />

neck, it’s perfect for drapey woven<br />

fabrics and super-easy to sew.<br />

Choose from 100’s of patterns<br />

by the best indie designers<br />

and then find a stockist

Editor’s Letter<br />

Hello<br />

As the children settle back at school, September is all about fresh beginnings. For<br />

stitchers this is no exception, so read on as we help you start new sewing projects for<br />

the last few months of the year.<br />

If you like making your own clothes, then this edition is packed full of things to<br />

sew for your autumn wardrobe and make it work for you. Rachel Pinheiro has been<br />

sewing with Modelo’s new melange rib knit fabric to make a gorgeous Nikko maxi<br />

dress from True Bias. While we look at the best sewing patterns to layer up for<br />

transcending the seasons!<br />

We hate to mention the ‘C’ word, but Christmas will be upon us before you<br />

know it so Sarah Ashford shares some super suggestions for working with the<br />

new fabric collection, Tinsel from Cloud9. We’re so excited to share the new<br />

fabric collection releases from Art Gallery Fabrics that will be in the shops<br />

very soon! With environmental issues at the forefront, we chat with Jennifer<br />

Moore from Monaluna about her beautiful organic fabrics.<br />

Happy stitching!<br />

Hantex<br />

www.hantex.co.uk<br />

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk<br />

Subscribe free to get your copy – click here<br />

WIN WIN WIN!<br />

We’ve three sets of the fabric and<br />

pattern used by Rachel Pinheiro<br />

in her feature on page 14 to give<br />

away. For a chance to win one of<br />

the sets up – click here<br />

Closing date is<br />

31st October 2019<br />


Park Lane by Hamburger Liebe<br />

brings you a concept fabric<br />

range featuring seven different<br />

substrates that all co-ordinate<br />

and are ready to go!<br />

The range includes exciting<br />

fabrics such as four softshells,<br />

four sweatshirts, four viscose<br />

jerseys, two rayons, four French<br />

Terry and six cotton fabrics. They<br />

all come in rich, autumnal colours<br />

that are perfect for jackets and<br />

snuggly tops, as well as much<br />

lighter garments.<br />

Susanne Firmenich, the<br />

designer behind Hamburger<br />

Liebe, is a surface pattern<br />

designer with a huge following<br />

in Germany that’s now spreading<br />

to the UK.<br />

To watch our video on the fabric collection – click here<br />

To the Hamburger Liebe’s Park Lane collection – click here<br />


Pick of the<br />


New sewing pattern releases that<br />

you’ll want to make<br />


Slacks are defined as trousers for casual wear,<br />

and while we don’t hear this term much<br />

these days – we think it’s time to embrace<br />

it again! The Free Range Slacks pattern is<br />

as easy to wear as its name because of the<br />

comfortable elastic high waist. Although<br />

the pattern is designed for linen, with<br />

two options to choose from, you’ll<br />

want to make them in lots of<br />

fabrics and wear them all-year<br />

long These slacks come in<br />

sizes 00-20.<br />

To find out more about<br />

this sewing pattern from<br />

Sew House Seven – click here<br />


The new Wilder Gown from Friday Pattern<br />

Company is a lovely loose, flowing tiered dress<br />

that can be sewn up in lots of different ways! Make<br />

it as a top or dress, long or short sleeved, and with<br />

one or two skirt tiers. The design is fairly modular<br />

so it’s simple to customise to your own personal<br />

style, and is also easy to make. It’s designed for<br />

drapey woven fabrics – make in rayon or silk to<br />

give it a more elegant dressy look, while sewing in<br />

a sturdy fabric like a linen will give you a structured<br />

everyday dress. The pattern comes is sizes XS-4X.<br />

To find out more about the Wilder Gown sewing<br />

pattern – click here<br />


True Bias has created another stunning pattern. The<br />

Calvin wrap dress and top features exposed bias binding<br />

that extends into long ties to close. It also features rings<br />

and sliders that create adjustable shoulder straps for<br />

perfectly fitting straps. Make in either a short top that sits<br />

approximately 2in below your natural waist or a straight<br />

dress that hits mid calf. Sew in light to medium weight<br />

woven fabrics that press well such as linen, chambray,<br />

rayon challis, silk crepe de chine, and cotton. This pattern<br />

has been designed for intermediate sewers and comes in<br />

sizes 0-18.<br />

To take a closer look at this True Bias sewing pattern –<br />

click here<br />

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand<br />

or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

CODE<br />

Four knit dress patterns that are perfect for transcending the season<br />

1The Ebony<br />

The Ebony Tee is a<br />

versatile wardrobe<br />

staple and is an elegant<br />

basic featuring a fluidly<br />

draped silhouette. Make<br />

a swingy knit dress or<br />

modern cropped top,<br />

with a choice of scoop or<br />

jewel neckline, and long<br />

or 3/4 sleeves. Choose<br />

knits with at least 30%<br />

crosswise stretch such<br />

as rayon, cotton, silk,<br />

merino and linen jerseys.<br />

To view more options<br />

from Closet Case –<br />

click here<br />

The Bristol<br />

This bell-shape, knee-length<br />

dress has a front and back yoke<br />

and long sleeves with cuffs. The<br />

front wraps to back and stitched<br />

to the inverted V-shape back<br />

panel. This pattern is ideal for<br />

two and four-way stretch knits<br />

The pattern makes a pretty neat<br />

top too!<br />

To find more patterns from The<br />

<strong>Sewing</strong> Workshop – click here<br />

2<br />

3<br />

The Turner<br />

Elegance meets comfort<br />

with this dress from<br />

Cashmerette. This<br />

beginner-friendly knit<br />

dress with a lined bodice<br />

curve friendly V-neck, softly<br />

flared skirt, and three sleeve<br />

lengths will become an everyday<br />

staple. Whether you make it in<br />

cosy merino jersey or lightweight<br />

rayon jersey, this dress will carry<br />

you through the seasons with<br />

style! This pattern is available in a<br />

wide range of sizes 16-32 as well<br />

as three bust cup sizes – C/D, E/F<br />

and G/H.<br />

To find out more about the<br />

Turner Dress pattern – click here<br />

The River<br />

This easy to<br />

4<br />

sew pattern<br />

features a<br />

reversible<br />

raglan dress<br />

(or top) that<br />

can be made in both<br />

woven or knit fabrics.<br />

The pattern features<br />

loose fit, optional<br />

pockets, waist tie, and<br />

can be made with the<br />

V-neck or the round neck<br />

at the front. Another great<br />

option for autumn and<br />

available in sizes XS – XL.<br />

To view this pattern from<br />

Megan Nielsen – click here


sustainable fabrics<br />

Jennifer Moore runs Monaluna – a small independent organic fabric<br />

company in Walnut Creek in Canada. We talk to her about her fabrics<br />

For anyone that’s not<br />

familiar with Monaluna<br />

fabrics – tell us about<br />

your company and how<br />

it all started?<br />

Monaluna is an organic fabric<br />

company that specialises in<br />

high-quality cotton fabrics<br />

printed with whimsical,<br />

modern designs. I started<br />

the company in 2010 at a<br />

time when there were far<br />

fewer options for organic<br />

cotton in the market. I had<br />

been licensing my artwork<br />

for fabric for about a year,<br />

but the more I learned about<br />

the environmental and health<br />

impacts of conventional<br />

cotton fabric production, the<br />

more committed I became<br />

to offering more sustainable<br />

fabric options.<br />

When I was unable to<br />

ensure that my licensed<br />

artwork would be printed on<br />

organic fabric, I decided to<br />

try to do it myself. I started<br />

with one collection that I<br />

had planned to sell over the<br />

course of a year, but it sold<br />

out in three months. I realised<br />

there was a real demand in<br />

the market, so I rushed to<br />

design the next collection, and<br />

a company was born! I had a<br />

newborn baby at the time too,<br />

so it was an exciting time!<br />

What do you see as the<br />

main benefits of using<br />

organic cotton?<br />

Although there are benefits<br />

to the end user, including the<br />

absence of residual toxins<br />

on the fabrics and an overall<br />

stronger and more absorbent<br />

fabric – the main benefits are<br />

more holistic. Organic cotton<br />

farming doesn’t rely on<br />

toxic pesticides or synthetic<br />

fertilisers, and the overall<br />

carbon footprint and water<br />

usage is much smaller, so it’s<br />

better for the environment<br />

and community, as well as<br />

the workers who are<br />

producing the crop.<br />

The production of the<br />

fabric is more eco-friendly<br />

too, using only low-impact<br />

dyes and no formaldehyde,<br />

chlorine bleach or other harsh<br />

chemicals in the processing.<br />

Our fabrics are all GOTScertified,<br />

which means that<br />

the fabrics meet the highest<br />

environmental, as well as<br />

social standards.

Do you design all the<br />

fabric for Monaluna<br />

and what inspires<br />

your designs?<br />

I do! I always find plenty of<br />

inspiration – the hard part is<br />

choosing what themes and<br />

designs will make the best<br />

fabrics. I often find inspiration<br />

close to home such as in<br />

my garden, which is full<br />

of flowers and fruit trees,<br />

birds, butterflies and the<br />

occasional chicken, but also<br />

from my living room – one<br />

collection that I designed was<br />

influenced by my Chemex<br />

coffee pot, and the recent<br />

Saturday collection is loosely<br />

based on my cats sleeping<br />

and playing in my studio. A<br />

couple of the more recent<br />

collections, Magical Creatures<br />

and the new Festival<br />

collection are inspired by<br />

some of the stories I read to<br />

my daughter.<br />

Who do your fabrics<br />

appeal to?<br />

I think our fabrics have a<br />

pretty wide appeal, because<br />

while there are lots of playful<br />

and juvenile prints – we also<br />

do more sophisticated and<br />

adult ranges. The fact that it’s<br />

organic definitely speaks to<br />

a certain audience, but while<br />

most of our customers value<br />

that, they ultimately buy the<br />

fabrics because they love<br />

the prints.<br />

Our standard poplin base<br />

cloth is lovely for apparel,<br />

but also perfect for quilting,<br />

accessories and some décor<br />

projects, so it’s very versatile.<br />

We also carry cotton<br />

lawns, canvas, double gauze<br />

and knits, so there’s a little<br />

something for most sewists.<br />

Festival is one of<br />

your latest ranges, and<br />

is proving very popular –<br />

why do you think this is?<br />

Festival is a really playful<br />

collection, with rich colours<br />

and a happy vibe. Animal<br />

prints are always very<br />

popular, and I think tropical<br />

plants and flowers are having<br />

a moment right now. It’s one<br />

of my favourites because of<br />

all the colour and texture – I<br />

like how the Tassels print<br />

feels so saturated and warm,<br />

and I like the way it and the<br />

other geometric, The Keys,<br />

integrate with the other<br />

larger scale prints.<br />

How many fabric<br />

collections do you create<br />

every year?<br />

We usually ceate about four<br />

collections a year, but we’ve<br />

done as many as nine!<br />

Do you have any exciting<br />

news to share with us?<br />

We’re working on some<br />

exciting new products right<br />

now, including some kits, as<br />

well as digital formats for our<br />

sewing patterns. There are a<br />

lot of irons in the fire!<br />

To view all of the fabric<br />

ranges from Monaluna,<br />

and also find a stockist<br />

near you – click here

Festive<br />

FUN<br />

When is it cool to wear a<br />

Christmas outfit? You decide!<br />

Wearing Christmas designs is all part of<br />

the festive season fun. Start planning your<br />

office party or Christmas Day outfit now!<br />

These cute new designs from<br />

Modelo come in brushed French<br />

Terry and cotton jersey, and both<br />

are perfect for seasonal snuginess!<br />

Choose designs such as the red<br />

nose reindeer, quirky angels,<br />

Christmas sheep, reindeers<br />

and trees, and reindeers with a<br />

Scandinavian feel and who could<br />

resist the sweet pugs in Christmas<br />

jumpers and antlers!<br />

To view all the designs and<br />

pre-order – click here<br />


Since Art Gallery Fabrics prints are versatile and<br />

can often be grouped together to create a certain<br />

mood or theme for sewing projects, AGF has<br />

decided to start curating new groups that are<br />

truly a collective! This is the first collective fabric<br />

collection of cottons for a really wintery and cosy<br />

feel and includes curated whimsy prints from Amy<br />

Sinibaldi, Pat Bravo, Maureen Cracknell, Katarina<br />

Roccella, and Bonnie Christine and turned them<br />

into this holiday-inspired collection.<br />

Take a look at this collection from Art Gallery<br />

Fabrics – click here<br />

TINSEL<br />

Tinsel is the new collection from Cloud 9, and pairs<br />

beautiful bright Christmassy colours with traditional<br />

festive styling. This fabric collection is a beautiful<br />

medium-weight organic cotton that’s idea for all<br />

your Christmas projects.<br />

To find out more about this fun range – click here

Add a touch of<br />

TINSEL<br />

Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover<br />

shares her ideas for making for the festive season<br />

Steaming hot chocolate,<br />

stockings, gingerbread<br />

men, sprigs of holly, and of<br />

course Santa, are far from<br />

most people’s minds until the<br />

festive season arrives. But for<br />

us quilters and sewers, we<br />

need to plan ahead, and<br />

get thinking about our<br />

Christmas makes, weeks or<br />

even months in advance,<br />

especially if we want to avoid<br />

a last minute panic!<br />

heads, and the bejewelled<br />

seasonal ornaments really<br />

appear to glow against the<br />

dark background in the Shiny<br />

and Bright print. I also love<br />

the contrasting cool blue<br />

Wonderland print with its<br />

flurry of delicate snowflakes<br />

– it really does conjure up a<br />

feeling of crisp, cold winters.<br />

I love English Paper Piecing<br />

and hexagons, they are<br />

the traditional shape, so<br />

I’ve fussy cut some of my<br />

favourite prints (I just had to<br />

include the smiling Santas!)<br />

and I made some rosettes<br />

that would work beautifully<br />

incorporated into lots of<br />

small projects.<br />

There’s nothing I love more<br />

than a non-traditional<br />

Christmas collection, and<br />

Tinsel by Clarice Gifford for<br />

Cloud Nine fabrics is just<br />

that. With pinks, electric<br />

blues and oranges, this<br />

adorable collection has a<br />

lovely retro vibe and with<br />

so many gorgeous motifs,<br />

there’s lots of opportunity<br />

for fussy cutting and really<br />

making those Christmas<br />

characters shine! Just look<br />

at the sweet smiling Santas,<br />

balancing piles of beautifully<br />

wrapped presents on their<br />

Ideas for makes<br />

These rosettes would look<br />

great appliquéd to a set of<br />

festive stockings, perhaps<br />

made in a solid colour, or<br />

even felt to make the prints<br />

really pop. Or how about<br />

making a set of tablemats<br />

and a table runner to add<br />

that extra special touch for a<br />

handmade Christmas?<br />

Another personal favourite<br />

yuletide make is tea towels<br />

appliquéd with hexie motifs.<br />

Not only are these a lovely<br />

festive feature in your<br />

kitchen, they also make lovely<br />

gifts. Why not make some<br />

oven gloves as well! You<br />

could even go all the way<br />

and make a special Christmas<br />

apron to complete the set!<br />

Whatever you make, be<br />

sure to take time to enjoy the<br />

process and embrace this<br />

collection in all its pink and<br />

blue retro glory! Have some<br />

fun with your stitching and be<br />

organised in plenty of time<br />

for the festive season.<br />

Editor’s notes<br />

The fabric Sarah used<br />

was from the Tinsel fabric<br />

collection designed<br />

by Clairice Gifford for<br />

Cloud9. Made from<br />

100% organic quilters<br />

weight cotton. The range<br />

features seven lovely<br />

Christmassy designs.<br />

To view the full collection<br />

– click here

Focus on<br />


Feast your eyes on the latest<br />

fabrics for your autumn sewing<br />

Art Gallery Fabrics has just revealed its autumn/winter fabric<br />

collection so whether you’re looking for a traditional print<br />

or something more contemporary, there’s something for<br />

all stitchers. The ranges are always on-trend and the fabric<br />

works equally well for clothing, soft furnishings, as well as<br />

quilting and other sewing projects. In addition to its pima<br />

cotton, AGF now has a beautiful range of knitted jersey,<br />

rayon, canvas and denims. <strong>Here</strong> is the latest fabric collection<br />

offerings designed by AGF’s talented designers:<br />


Dew + Moss<br />

Dew + Moss is perfect for brightening up a child’s room with<br />

its meadow theme designs in shades of orange and green.<br />

With mushroom houses, snails, fireflies and jars of bugs,<br />

meadow plants and physiognomies – it’s a really colourful<br />

and happy collection.<br />

To see all the fabrics within this collection – click here<br />


Floralish<br />

Inspired by a summer’s day that’s<br />

filled with delectable fruits and<br />

stunning flora, Katarina has<br />

created Floralish so that the fresh<br />

and sweet tones of the blossoms<br />

fuse with her watercolour designs<br />

and textures.<br />

To see more of the bright<br />

designs from this range<br />

– click here<br />


Meriwether<br />

Meaning happy weather in middle<br />

English, Meriwether celebrates<br />

enchanting flora and fauna that<br />

comes out when the sun is<br />

shining. Inspired by folkloric<br />

and stitching motifs, you’ll<br />

discover colourful blooms,<br />

curious rabbits, and<br />

dancing June bugs in this<br />

whimsical collection.<br />

To view this cheerful<br />

collection – click here<br />


Nunica<br />

Memories of an inspiring motherdaughter<br />

relationship, stories<br />

from a kitchen in Buenos Aires,<br />

Argentina, and a mutual love of<br />

flowers create Nuncia. Named<br />

after Pat’s mother in a tribute to her<br />

life and the amazing lessons she left<br />

for her two daughters.<br />

To take a closer look at this<br />

beautiful fabric collection –<br />

click here


Maara<br />

Let this collection take you on<br />

a tour to Africa. While touring<br />

the African Savanna in Kenya,<br />

Alexandra captured the wildlife<br />

on her own camera and decided<br />

to translate these photos into<br />

prints. She has brought to life a<br />

collection that shares a glimpse of<br />

everyday life on the enchanting<br />

grassland, there’s so many<br />

lovely designs it will be<br />

difficult to choose!<br />

To take a closer look<br />

at this beautiful fabric<br />

collection – click here<br />


Knits Spotted<br />

Spotted fabrics remain a popular choice<br />

to mix and match. This new knit spot collection allows you<br />

to choose from small and large dots that are ideal for colour<br />

blocking and great for projects that require a little stretch<br />

such as T-shirts, tank tops, dresses and leggings. This range<br />

has a four-way stretch so is incredibly comfortable and also<br />

super soft. You can successfully sew them with your sewing<br />

machine so an overlocker is not needed, and if you’re a<br />

beginner the fabric is also very forgiving.<br />

To see more from this spotty range – click here<br />


Enchanted Voyage<br />

Set sail on a whimsical journey<br />

with this beautiful ocean-inspired<br />

collection. Illuminated with seainspired<br />

illustrations, you’ll want<br />

to listen to the waves, count the<br />

stars and greet majestic whales<br />

on this nautical adventure.<br />

To see more of Enchanted<br />

Voyage – click here<br />


Selva<br />

Earth inspires us with its playful creatures and extensive<br />

foliage. From lush jungles in Central America to the fierce<br />

fauna in the African Savannah, the Selva collection is<br />

nourished by the bright colours, creatures, and plants found<br />

in the planet’s on-land iconic ecosystems.<br />

To find out more about this beautiful fabric – click here<br />


Kushukuru<br />

After the passing of her husband,<br />

Jessica received an overwhelming<br />

amount of love that inspired her<br />

to create fabrics that celebrated<br />

life, compassion, family and<br />

community. In Swahili,<br />

kushukuru means<br />

gratitude, which<br />

became the heart<br />

of this collection.<br />

To view more from<br />

this collection –<br />

click here<br />

The illustrations are from the popular Lark Tee and Alder shirtdress sewing patterns from Grainline<br />

and Free Range Slacks from Sew House Seven are to showcase the fabrics and are not to scale

Other new fabric colletion releases<br />

to look out for this season:<br />

RIB KNIT<br />

Modelo<br />

Modelo’s melange rib sweater knit is perfect for<br />

garments which need stretch such as tops and dresses.<br />

It comes in 10 great muted tones, which are ideal for<br />

your autumn/winter wardrobe.<br />

To discover more colours for your sweaters –<br />

click here<br />


This is a selection of favourite designs from Ed Emberley, and<br />

contains repetitive animal prints and scribbles that are great<br />

for fun soft furnishing and other sewing projects.<br />

To find more designs fom this collection – click here<br />

TINSEL<br />

Cloud9 is already for the festive season with this quilter’s<br />

weight cotton created by Clarice Gifford, and has come up<br />

with this gorgeous collection of Christmas fabrics called<br />

Tinsel. Think snowflakes, gingerbread men, baubles, and of<br />

course pressies!<br />

To find out more about this festive line – click here<br />


This linen cotton base fabric collection designed by<br />

Meena Patel puts the fun back into fabric design with<br />

her cute faces on plants.<br />

To find more Plant Peeps designs – click here

SECRET<br />


Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages explains about three stitches that<br />

can improve the overall look of your garments<br />


What is it?<br />

Stay stitch is a straight stitch<br />

sewn around curves where a<br />

curve cuts across a stretchiest<br />

part of the fabric such as<br />

necklines, sleeve heads and<br />

facings a single fabric piece.<br />

It prevents the fabric from<br />

becoming distorted and<br />

stabilises it before sewing<br />

together. I’d recommend<br />

using the directional stitching<br />

method as it helps maintain<br />

the original shape of the<br />

pieces anad is always done<br />

from upper edge towards the<br />

centre (see diagram below).<br />

How to stay stich<br />

• Set your stitch length to 1.5<br />

• Sew ⅛in from the sewing<br />

line, so if your seam<br />

allowance is ⅛in then stitch<br />

½in away from the raw edge.<br />

• Stay stitch as soon as you<br />

can after cutting your<br />

fabric out to prevent any<br />

curves stretching before<br />

you start sewing.<br />

• For necklines, stitch from<br />

the one shoulder and stitch<br />

to the centre front and then<br />

sew from the other shoulder<br />

to the centre front.<br />


What is it?<br />

This is a stitching line close<br />

to the edge of a facing to<br />

stop it from rolling toward<br />

the outside of the garment,<br />

and being seen. It comes in<br />

handy when sewing around a<br />

neckline and keeps the facing<br />

firmly on the inside of your<br />

garment and attached to the<br />

seam allowance as shown<br />

here on my Odgen Camisole<br />

from Closet Case Patterns.<br />

How to under stitch<br />

• Start by pressing the seam<br />

allowance towards the facing<br />

or lining. You may want to<br />

clip or notch any curves so<br />

they lay flat.<br />

• Stitch between ⅛ in to ¼in<br />

from the seam line (easier to<br />

do with an edge stitch foot).<br />

• Press the facing towards the<br />

inside of the garment so that<br />

the facing now lays flat with a<br />

crisp edge, preventing it from<br />

rolling out of place.<br />

TIP: Sometimes it’s not<br />

possible to under stitch hard<br />

to reach areas, so just stitch<br />

as close as you can.<br />


What is it?<br />

Actually this stitch is not<br />

hidden but equally as<br />

important for the look of<br />

your garment. If you haven’t<br />

topstitched before avoid<br />

using a contrasting thread<br />

colour and opt for a subtle<br />

colour until you’ve mastered<br />

this technique.<br />

But once you’ve got to grips<br />

with this stitch, you can use it<br />

to style up your garment with<br />

contrasting topstitching. Use<br />

it for pockets and reinforcing<br />

seams on denim.<br />

How to topstitch<br />

• Match the thread weight to<br />

the weight of your fabric<br />

• Always use all-purpose<br />

thread in the bobbin.<br />

• Adjust your tension<br />

setting when working with<br />

topstitching thread - low<br />

tension can cause a loose<br />

stitching on the wrong side<br />

of your fabric, while a high<br />

tension can cause the bobbin<br />

thread to be visible from the<br />

right side of the fabric.<br />

• Use the appropriate needle<br />

like a Microtex needle for an<br />

extra sharp tip that will create<br />

precise stitches.<br />

• On heavy weight fabrics,<br />

choose a speciality needle<br />

has a longer eye to<br />

accommodate thicker thread<br />

and use a slightly longer<br />

stitch length of 3.5–4 stitch<br />

length. On medium-weight<br />

fabrics select a stitch length<br />

of 3.<br />

Editor’s notes<br />

Topstitching shown on<br />

the Fiona sundress from<br />

Closet Case Patterns.<br />

To take a look at this<br />

pattern – click here<br />

To view the Prym Microtex<br />

needles – click here

Drawstring bag<br />

& keyring<br />

This purse is perfect for make-up but would work<br />

equally as well as an evening bag!<br />

Designed by Jacqui Smith<br />

“If you read the last<br />

edition, you’ll recall my<br />

slouchy bag project that<br />

I made from Modelo faux<br />

leather. It got such a good<br />

response that I decided to<br />

use up the leftover fabric<br />

to make this matching<br />

purse and keyring.”<br />

<strong>Sewing</strong> with faux leather<br />

The Modelo faux leather used<br />

comes in a wide range of colours<br />

including metallic and pearl<br />

finishes. It has a woven fabric<br />

backing that sews really well with<br />

a normal machine foot.<br />

To see all the rich zingy colours<br />

available – click here<br />

If you missed the Slouch Bag<br />

project last time, don’t worry just<br />

– click here

Requirements:<br />

Leftover fabric from<br />

Slouchy Bag project<br />

pattern OR<br />

1 fat quarter of cotton<br />

fabric<br />

10in x 12in scrap of<br />

faux leather<br />

1 Prym key ring finding<br />

1m narrow ribbon<br />

or cord<br />

Matching thread and<br />

contrasting thread for<br />

topstitching<br />

Tacky glue<br />

For the drawstring<br />

pouch:<br />

Cut 4 x 8½in x 8in<br />

pieces from the main<br />

cotton fabric<br />

Cut 2 x 8½in x 4½in<br />

and 2 x 1in x ½in pieces<br />

from the faux leather<br />

To sew the pouch:<br />

Seam allowance throughout<br />

is ¼in.<br />

1. Take two pieces of the<br />

main fabric and and draw a<br />

line 4in up across on the right<br />

side of the longer side. This<br />

is a guideline for placing the<br />

faux leather. On both pieces,<br />

place the faux leather right<br />

sides together with the main<br />

fabric along this line and<br />

stitch together.<br />

2. With right sides out, fold<br />

the faux leather down so<br />

that the raw seam edges are<br />

hidden and topstitch in place.<br />

3. Place main pieces right<br />

sides together lining up the<br />

faux leather at the sides.<br />

Stitch both side seams and<br />

bottom seam.<br />

4. Using a small quilter’s ruler,<br />

mark a 1in square in both<br />

of the bottom corners. Cut<br />

along both lines to remove<br />

the square.<br />

5. Fold the corners so that<br />

the bottom seam match the<br />

side seam to make a triangle<br />

shape. Make sure that the<br />

side seam is open before<br />

stitching. Stitch across the cut<br />

edge to make a flat base for<br />

the bag and repeat for the<br />

other side.<br />

6. To sew the lining pieces<br />

together, pin the lining fabric<br />

right sides together and sew<br />

the side and bottom seams,<br />

leaving a gap in the bottom<br />

seam to turn the bag.<br />

7. Repeat steps 4 and 5<br />

to make the flat base for<br />

the lining.<br />

8. With lining right sides out<br />

and the main bag inside out,<br />

place the lining inside the<br />

main bag piece matching top<br />

and side seams, right sides<br />

together. Sew around the top.<br />

9. Turn the bag right sides out<br />

through the hole in the lining<br />

seam and topstitch the top of<br />

the bag. Stitch a second row<br />

of topstitching approx ½in<br />

down to form a channel for the<br />

drawstring (this will depend on<br />

the ribbon’s width you choose).<br />

10. Using an unpicker, carefully<br />

unpick a few stitches in the side<br />

seams between the two rows<br />

of topstitching. Cut the cord/<br />

ribbon into two equal lengths<br />

and using a safety pin pass it<br />

through one seam hole to the<br />

other side and back around<br />

the bag top. Take the second<br />

ribbon/cord and do the same<br />

from the opposite side.<br />

11. Cut the ribbon to your<br />

preferred length and match the<br />

ends together. Using a suitable<br />

glue, place it on the wrong<br />

side of the small faux leather<br />

squares and fold over each end<br />

of the ribbon/cord to neaten.<br />

12. Finally handstitch the<br />

gap in the bottom lining seam<br />

to close.<br />

Tips for sewing<br />

You may find it easier to<br />

sew the faux leather with a<br />

teflon foot or walking foot<br />

(although the Modelo is<br />

easy to sew with so I didn’t<br />

need either) and increase<br />

your stitch length a little<br />

to around 2.4 to avoid<br />

stressing the faux leather<br />

at the seams.<br />

For the keyring:<br />

Cut a strip of printed<br />

cotton - 2in x 8in<br />

Cut a strip of faux<br />

leather - 3in x 8in<br />

Mark a line down the<br />

centre of the faux leather<br />

8in piece on the wrong side.<br />

Put small dots of the glue<br />

along the faux leather edge<br />

on the wrong side and fold<br />

the edges to the line so that<br />

they meet in the middle. I<br />

found it useful to use some<br />

quilters clips to hold this while<br />

it dried.<br />

With worng sides together,<br />

fold the cotton strip in half<br />

lengthwise and sew. Press<br />

with the seam allowance<br />

underneath so that it’s hidden<br />

(no need to turn it as the<br />

seam will be hidden when it’s<br />

attached).<br />

Using the glue and clips,<br />

stick the fabric strip over<br />

the centre of the leather<br />

strip to hide both the seam<br />

and join. Use just enough<br />

glue to hold everything in<br />

place temporarily.<br />

Topstitch along the edges<br />

of the cotton strip.<br />

Fold in half with raw edges<br />

matching. Using pliers, fold<br />

the keyring finding around the<br />

end of the strip encasing the<br />

raw ends. Put a fabric scrap<br />

over the finding to avoid<br />

damaging it with the pliers.<br />

You have now finished your<br />

matching accessories!

Athleisure reworked<br />

Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro, shares<br />

her take on athleisure wear for the autumn<br />

Working with knit fabrics<br />

I like to talk fashion trends instead of<br />

just bringing you a product review but I<br />

couldn’t help to gush a little about this<br />

rib knit. This fabric is pure softness, and<br />

is warm but not bulky. It also sews really<br />

well, keeps it shape, and the colours<br />

selections are lovely. <strong>Sewing</strong> with this<br />

sort of fabric can seem a bit daunting<br />

so here are my tips on working with it:<br />

Two- or four-way stretch<br />

Two-way knits will stretch crosswise<br />

from selvedge to selvdge while fourway<br />

stretches crosswise and lengthwise.<br />

Use a stretch gauge<br />

Knit patterns including the Nikko dress<br />

will have a gauge to make sure the<br />

finished measurement will fit correctly.<br />

Fold the knit fabric crosswise and cut a<br />

10cm sample. I personally avoid using<br />

the edge as I’m not sure if it has been<br />

stretched or distorted out of shape. If<br />

you’ve never sewn with knits always<br />

follow the designer recommendation<br />

on the percentage of stretch.<br />

Choose the right stretch stitch<br />

Check your sewing manual to find<br />

all the different stretch stitches your<br />

machine can do, and swatch test them<br />

with the sewing gauge. You may need<br />

to adjust your sewing machine tension<br />

and the length of the stitches.<br />

As the weather starts to change and<br />

nights become longer, the colour<br />

palette of my wardrobe moves from<br />

bright and light to earthy deep tones.<br />

Autumn is my favourite season and isn’t<br />

a season I had experienced growing<br />

up. In Brazil, we have two defined<br />

seasons – rainy or not! The blue skies<br />

and the slight chill inspires me to make<br />

clothes that are cosy, easy to layer but<br />

that are still streamlined and elegant.<br />

Athleisure is one of the biggest<br />

recurrent trends over the last couple<br />

of years. It means wearing casual<br />

sports-like clothing outside a sporting<br />

occasion When looking for inspiration,<br />

my aim was to find something easy to<br />

wear yet also easy to care for, and quick<br />

to make with lots of styling possibilities.<br />

The Nikko dress from True Bias and<br />

Modelo’s sweater rib knit in brick red<br />

fitted the bill perfectly.<br />

Seam allowance<br />

Most knits designs have 1cm seam<br />

instead of the 2.5cm traditionally<br />

seen in woven. Don’t assume this. I<br />

personally like to have my seams cut to<br />

0.6cm, which I trim with an overlocker<br />

after using the correct stretch stitch<br />

but you don’t need to as knits don’t<br />

unravel. I actually stitched this dress on<br />

my sewing machine.<br />

Cut notches outward<br />

Select the correct notions and use<br />

a ballpoint needle, polyester or knit<br />

thread. Please don’t confuse with<br />

elastic used for shirring. The knit<br />

thread is wooly nylon.<br />

Don’t skip on the stabilisers<br />

Place elastic on the shoulder seam, and<br />

use knit hem tape for sharper edges.<br />

Pressing<br />

Unlike woven fabrics, stretch knit<br />

should only be pressed with a cool iron<br />

when finished. That is only after you<br />

have tested a sample.<br />

Editor’s notes<br />

Rachel has used Modelo’s new range of mélange rib sweater knit. Made from<br />

85% polyester, 10% viscose and 5% Lycra, this fabric is perfect for garments<br />

that need stretch. The range includes 10 rich muted tones that are great for<br />

autumn/winter but will work equally well all-year round.<br />

To view the full selection of colourways – click here<br />

To view the dress pattern featured (The Nikko from True Bias) - click here

Trendsetter<br />

Love layers<br />

If you’re not ready to let go of your summer wardrobe, the layered look is a perfect<br />

way to keep wearing summery garments for a bit longer, and also coping with<br />

weather that’s warm one minute and chilly the next!<br />

Second skin<br />

Start with a thin layer. The<br />

Julia swing camisole with<br />

rounded V-neck and racer<br />

back is the ideal layer<br />

to wear next to your skin.<br />

Choose a knit with stretch in<br />

the length and width and a<br />

nice fluid drape, and why not<br />

try going for a bold design.<br />

To view this pattern from Jalie<br />

– click here<br />

To view the large selections of<br />

knits available – click here<br />

A must-have mac<br />

The Ulysses mixes relaxed fit<br />

trench styling with a modern look<br />

and features draped elements<br />

such as a shawl collar and<br />

curved back rain-guard overlay, shoulder<br />

epaulettes, angled patch pockets with an<br />

upper flap, centre-back vent, and a gently<br />

angled hemline at the front.<br />

The coat is unlined, making this cool<br />

styling coat for in-between seasons.<br />

To view this pattern from Victory Patterns<br />

– click here<br />

Staple shirt<br />

A classic shirt makes another<br />

great layer that’s both<br />

practical and easy to<br />

wear. The Kalle Shirt<br />

from Closet Case Patterns has a<br />

loose, body-skimming silhouette and<br />

interchangeable features including<br />

a standard or band collar, breast<br />

pocket, inverted or box pleat, and<br />

button, popover or hidden placket.<br />

To view the Kalle Shirt (and<br />

shirtdress) pattern – click here<br />

The humble cardi<br />

Whip up a cardigan for a versatile<br />

layering piece. This Aurelia<br />

Cardigan from Sew Liberated is<br />

as comfortable as it is stylish, and<br />

is perfect for making with a soft knit and a<br />

cotton voile underskirt and ruffle. Pair it with<br />

a long-sleeve tee or throw it over a camisole<br />

when the evenings get chilly.<br />

To see more about the Aurelia Cardigan –<br />

click here<br />

To find out more about this pattern from Megan<br />

Nielsen – click here<br />

To view the Wanderlust<br />

collection of jersey and<br />

accessories – click here<br />

Sassy sweatshirts<br />

A loose fit sweater can look stylish<br />

made in a modern sweat fabric. The<br />

Jarrah will turn a plain sweatshirt into<br />

something special. Make with a crew<br />

or funnel neckline, split sleeve hem<br />

and waist ties, cuffs or curved hemline.<br />

Or if you want to make a quick<br />

sweatshirt then opt for Albstoffe’s<br />

Wanderlust collection of jerseys and<br />

co-ordinating ribbed<br />

cuffs, trims and<br />

sweatshirt cords.



The Stash n Store<br />

organiser now comes in a<br />

cute new mini size! It’s the<br />

perfect organiser for even<br />

the tightest and smallest<br />

of spaces. With multiple<br />

pockets and centre divider,<br />

it will easily stow away<br />

sewing notions, marking<br />

tools and even small<br />

scissors and rulers. It’s the<br />

perfect pocket-sized travel<br />

companion for stitching on<br />

the go!<br />

The silicone pockets are<br />

smooth and offer a sturdy<br />

grip and it is also simple<br />

to clean. Available in nine<br />

funky colours for your<br />

sewing room and even<br />

your home office!<br />

To view the complete<br />

Oh Sew! storage<br />

collection– click here<br />


We’re just upped our game with lots more products<br />

from the reputable Prym brand from exciting<br />

storage solutions like this roomy trolley to make<br />

sure your sewing machine is transported safely to your<br />

next sewing class and plenty of space for your sewing<br />

options. Or if you are looking for a dress form, Prym’s range is<br />

impressive thanks to its premium, well-conceived designs with<br />

moving parts. These eight-piece rotatable dress forms can<br />

be flexibly adjusted to individual proportions. There is also a<br />

huge selection of sewing accessories from elastics and bag<br />

making components.<br />

To view the extensive Prym dress forms –<br />

click here<br />

To check out more storage ideas<br />

– click here<br />

WHATS<br />

NEW<br />

We keep you posted of the latest launches<br />



Exciting news, It’s Sew Emma<br />

brings you even more quilt<br />

blocks and projects for all<br />

Farm Girl Vintage fans to<br />

enjoy in this second book –<br />

Farm Girl Vintage 2. Lori Holt has rounded up 45<br />

one-of-a-kind 6in and 12in quilt blocks inspired by<br />

her rural roots.<br />

She has also designed 13 new projects for this book<br />

including quilts, pillows, pincushion, and of course a<br />

fantastic new sampler quilt! As always, quilters can<br />

mix and match quilt blocks from Lori’s previous books<br />

for endless piecing possibilities.<br />

This book is wonderful for classes, swaps, retreats,<br />

and quilt shops can also bundle them with Lori Holt’s<br />

other books like Farm Girl Vintage, Spelling Bee, and<br />

Vintage Christmas.<br />

To view this new Lori Holt book – click here<br />



New cross stitch patterns designed by the everpopular<br />

Lori Holt for It’s Sew Emma have a<br />

contemporary feel and are perfect for stitchers<br />

looking for a quick and easy make. With eight<br />

new designs, you’re bound to find one that you<br />

like. Choose from autumn- and Christmas-inspired<br />

samplers and other stylish designs such as Sew<br />

She Did and Eat, Sleep, Stitch Repeat.<br />

Those who like to make cards will love the<br />

Bee in My Bonnet Stitch Cards Set, that come<br />

with full-colour instructions, diagrams and<br />

supply list, including suggested DMC colours.<br />

Each set includes four stitch cards printed on<br />

durable cardstock.<br />

To take a look at the full collection – click here

Park Lane By Hamburger Liebe Distributed by Hantex Ltd (UK)

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