Adventure #238

adventure
where actions speak louder than words
where actions speak louder than words
ISSUE 238
JUN/JUL 2023
NZ $11.90 incl. GST
WINTER

The new
Heli R
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Lighter. More packable.
Same cosy warmth.
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Ruapehu - is it the end of an era
There has been a lot of talk in the media
about Ruapehu and skiing on its slopes this
season, or any season, in fact. Many of us
grew up skiing those windblown, icy slopes,
yet, on reflection, we recount days of
perfect uncrowded snow, of sunshine and
fun. But this year, 2023, as we go to print,
there is still a cloud of uncertainty hanging
over the North Island winter ski season.
Like looking up from the Desert Road to
the mighty Maunga, a shroud of cloud is
hanging over the very existence of what we
know as Whakapapa and Turoa.
Sure, there are groups of those willing
to accept the challenge of running the
ski fields; there are overseas investors,
private buyers, community groups, and
even government buyouts, but all that
possibility seems to be only fed by rumours
and speculation. But the simple truth is
there is a lack of clarification, will there be
a ski season in 2023 in the North Island, or
will this be the year the mountain closes,
possibly the more significant question will it
ever re-open?
What happens to a community that
has a strong foundation in snow sport
tourism; accommodation, stores, cafes,
and restaurants? It would be like telling
Whangamata you can no longer swim in
the sea, or telling Kaikoura the whales
are not to be watched. Sure, the Central
Plateau has a huge amount to offer apart
from skiing, but there is a lot built around
the activity. Regardless of the issues that
RAL (Ruapehu Alpine Lifts) faces, whether
internal or external, there is no denying
the impact of covid, tourism (or lack of
it), climate change, DoC and Iwi, each of
these factors weigh in on the possibility
of its continuance of Ruapehu as a ski
destination.
Over the last three years of constant
worldwide effects and what seems like
constant change outside of our control, the
concept of no more skiing on Ruapehu now
seems a possibility, it’s not likely, but it is
possible.
We need to enjoy every moment of what
we have when we have it. Do not waste a
moment, for tomorrow it may be gone or at
best, be in jeopardy.
For those of us who complained about the
difficult car parking at Ruapehu, or the price
of pies, or the 20-minute queue times, oh
how we now long for those snow beers in
the sun, in the car park, after a good day
skiing, looking up at those slopes in the
afternoon light, knowing we can do it all
again tomorrow. But maybe, just maybe,
those days are gone.
So, make the most out of this winter
wherever you are, whatever your activity,
enjoy every second, and when the wind is
a little strong, or the temperature a little too
cold, the queue a little longer or the car park
a little full, remember how quickly things
can change.
Steve Dickinson - Editor
Longing for those snow beers
your Adventure starts with Us
23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

BEHIND THE COVER
Elke Braun-Elwert is the Assistant Director at Alpine Recreation
in Lake Tekapo. She explains the background to the photo on the
cover of this issue of Adventure...
"This photo was taken by my father, Gottlieb Braun-Elwert on
a snowshoeing trip to Caroline Hut on the 15th August 2007
(coincidentally this was almost exactly a year to the day before he
passed away suddenly in 2008). Pictured are René Aukens and
Graham Jackson (both former hiking guides of ours - Graham is
the bearded one). They are snowshoeing along Ball Ridge in front
of the Caroline Face of Aoraki Mount Cook.
Getting to Caroline Hut in winter is a serious expedition and would
probably best be described as “snowshoe mountaineering”. For
beginner snowshoers or an easier option which doesn’t require
the use of crampons or ice axe, we recommend 3-5 days of
snowshoe hikes at our Rex Simpson Hut in the Two Thumb
Range or our heli-assisted snowshoe hikes based from our
Edelweiss Lodge in Lake Tekapo - these are both family-friendly
options and can also be suitable for mixed groups where some
members wish to ski.
Gottlieb would’ve been so stoked to land a cover picture I’m sure."
EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER
Steve Dickinson
Mob: 027 577 5014
steve@pacificmedia.co.nz
ART DIRECTOR
Lynne Dickinson
design@pacificmedia.co.nz
SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES
subscribe at www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz
DISTRIBUTION
ARE, Ph (09) 979 3000
Photographer,
outdoor legend
and adventurer,
Gottlieb
Braun-Elwer,
took the cover
shot a year
before he passed
away
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Earning your turns;
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4//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

HARI
BUDHA
MAGAR
SUMMITS
EVEREST
43-year-old Hari Budha Magar has stood
victorious atop the world’s tallest mountain,
He is now the first ever double above the knee
amputee to scale Everest.
Through his climb, Hari aims to change
perceptions on disability and inspire people
to climb their own ‘mountains’ no matter the
adversity that stands in their way.
Having grown up in the Nepalese mountains
before serving 15 years as a Corporal with the
Ghurkha Regiment of the British Army, scaling
Everest was a boyhood dream for Hari.
Devastatingly an IED in Afghanistan took both his
legs in 2010 - an event he thought would shatter
his lifelong dream.
Thirteen years later, having overturned a law
banning disabled climbers from the mountain,
Hari has achieved what many thought impossible,
proving disability is no barrier to reaching the 8,849
metre peak.
Hari summitted at around 3pm on May 19th.
Hari’s climb was made possible by a world class
team of Nepalese climbers, led by Expedition
Leader Krish Thapa, of HST Adventures, who
served at the SAS’s Mountain Troop Leader during
a 24-year British Forces career that started like
Hari as a Gurkha before 18 years in the SAS.
At the top, Hari shouted “We did it!”, a reference
to, and in recognition of, the team effort that it
possible.
Over a satellite phone call, made possible by
NSSL Global, to his team, he added; “That was
tough. Harder than I could have ever imagined. We
just had to carry on and push for the top, no matter
how much it hurt or how long it took.
“If I can climb to the top of the world then anyone,
regardless of their disability, can achieve their
dream.
“When things got really tough it was the thought
of my amazing family and everyone who's helped
me get onto the mountain that pushed me to the
top. Without the support of so many this expedition
simply wouldn't have been possible.”

Hari on the summit of Everest - Image by Shantanepali Productions Jeet Bahadur Tamang 2
"When things got really tough
it was the thought of my
amazing family and everyone
who's helped me get onto the
mountain that pushed me to
the top."
With half of the team back at Basecamp, and others climbing
down from camp two – the climb team will be resting before
Hari departs back for the UK.
Hari and his climb team summitted Everest 70 years after
Edmund Hillary and sherpa Tenzing Norgay became the first
people to stand atop the world's highest peak in May 1953.
“I first planned this expedition back in 2018, but it feels a little
more special to celebrate the 70th anniversary of Everest's
first summit, with another world first,” says Hari.
“My big goals where simply to change perceptions on
disability and to inspire other people to climb their own
mountains. No matter how big your dreams, no matter how
challenging your disability, with the right mindset anything is
possible.”
Hari is urging supporters from around the world to dig deep
as he raises money for five veteran charities including Team
Forces, the Gurkha Welfare Trust, Pilgrim Bandits, Blesma,
and On Course Foundation, with the aim of raising over
£884,900, the height of Everest plus two zeros.
To support Hari’s Everest appeal, visit
www.crowdfunder.co.uk/p/harieverestappeal
To make this climb happen, Hari has been supported by
over 30 organisations including Team Forces, Barratt
Developments, Branding Science Group, Ottobock,
Therabody, the Oriental Club and over 600 individuals.
Support for which he is immensely grateful and without
which the attempt would not have happened, and the chance
to inspire others and change perceptions.
Just as we were going to print we received this update
from Hari himself...
“It took 25 hours climbing from camp 4 to the summit and then
back to camp 4. We started 21:50 and arrived back 23:00 next
day.
“The journey wasn’t easy, we had to make some tough
decisions along the way, but we made it.
“The climb didn’t go entirely to plan because of weather
conditions. We were supposed to put Camp 5 at Balcony, but
we didn’t because the weather made it too dangerous.
“The first summit push climb from Camp 4 was horrible. It was
so bad that when we returned from the Balcony, one team
member suggested that we finish, and go down.
“As we went back up to the summit, we had to go so slow and
hunker down at times and wait for weather to improve. This
meant oxygen supplies ran low and some people had to turn
back for their and teams’ overall safety.
“I also wanted to give up at least 3 times when half of team
had gone. The Sherpas, which included my brother, reassured
me we could make it and the oxygen will last but even they
could not predict how long conditions would delay and supplies
would run low.
“As a team we pushed hard and five us made it to the summit.
My brother, Nanda Bahadur Budha Magar, Mingma Sharpa,
Pasang Sherpa, Jit Bahadur Tamang and I did it!
“We reached the top of the world!
“But then we had to get back down with little oxygen, very late
in the day for an Everest summit with an ice storm coming in.
“Two Sherpa’s were nearly finished their oxygen at Hillary Step
on way down, so they left the me and last other team members
to rightly preserve their lives. My oxygen was about to finish on
South Summit, I was never scared my life like that before even
when I was injured and crashed my car.
“Once my oxygen finished, one Sherpa gave me his oxygen
and went back down. Now, I and my brother left with very little
oxygen enough for 30-45 minutes but we had to go long way
down. I felt like here is some oxygen take it and die when it
finishes. We looked for some of the oxygen bottles left on
mountain, but they were all empty.
“I told my brother who was with me to go, I just went down
on my bum down all the way to wall of Camp 4. We had no
radios, but we had satphone, so able to call base camp and
relay messages to camp 4. Finally, a sherpa from camp 4
came up with oxygen and hot water and met us below the
balcony and saved us! Later two other Sherpas come for
assistance and took us to Camp 4.
“The immediate danger then passed. Over the coming two
days the team and I went down to camp 3, then 2 and back to
base camp.
“The team and I are now back at base camp with some having
moved off the mountain to receive treatment from injuries on
the mountain, like my brother who got hit by rocks.
“This experience has really hit home for me that if we are
passionate, disciplined, work hard and believe in ourselves,
nothing can stop us from achieving our dream. We proved that
- nothing is Impossible.”
6//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//7

Kiwis in Canada accompanied by a local - Never ending Rockies - Born to Run, our favourite!
Right: Big White's world-renowned snow ghosts - Image by Janine Fisher
ROAD TRIPPIN
KIWIS IN CANADA
What’s better than a road trip? A road
trip to go skiing. And what’s better than
a road trip to go skiing? A road trip with
around 12 inches of fresh snow!
As we flew across the Rockies from
Vancouver, the expansive mountain
range covered in snow was breathtaking,
it simply just goes on and on in every
direction and is as wide as it is deep. We
have great mountains in New Zealand
but nothing on this type of immense
scale.
We flew to Canada with Fiji Airways,
and after a quick stop off in the tropics,
we landed in Vancouver. A short internal
flight took us to Kelowna, where the fun
and the runs began. We had planned
to pick up a car from Kelowna drive
to Calgary, stopping off at Big White,
Silverstar, Revelstoke and Panorama ski
resorts along the way.
BIG WHITE
Big White Ski Resort is aptly named
and we couldn’t have asked for a better
reintroduction to skiing in Canada. It
is a picturesque place (as are all the
Canadian Ski fields) and it was just
made all the more perfect by the snow
falling steadily as we arrived early in the
evening.
The following day, due to an arctic blast
blowing through central BC, we were
greeted with a very cold -18 degrees.
The upside of the arctic blast was a
dumping of fresh snow and clear blue
skies. Big White and the resort area
covers a huge 7,355 acres. It is big, so
with only two days to spare we did our
best effort to cover as much as we could.
Snow hosts were available to give you
complimentary Mountain tours, but we
were lucky enough to have our nephew
working there so he took a couple of
days off to show us around.
With such a large terrain, the scenery
and snow conditions changed depending
on where we were skiing, from wide
open runs to tree clad glades and high
alpine slopes covered in alien-like mini
snow ghosts. We originally thought that
the trees had been stunted due to the
high altitude but later discovered it was
just the tops sticking out from under the
huge depths of snow.
Despite the fact that it was the weekend
and the sun was shining we felt like
we had the mountain to ourselves. Big
White, as the name suggests, is a big
mountain and has a lot to offer, not just
for the hardcore skier or snowboarder
but for families and beginners. The
mountain seems like a maze of runs and
connecting paths but they have been
cleverly devised so that the beginner can
take a green run, intermediate a blue and
the more extreme a black and in most
cases all meet up back at the same spot.
Big White Ski Resort prides itself on
being a family friendly village, but that
doesn’t mean that’s their only focus.
The restaurants and bars were alive
with people of all ages and stages of life
who regularly return to Big White year
after year. There were plenty of activities
outside of skiing; tubing, dogsledding
etc, but with only a few days to spare
we spent the weekend exploring the
expanse of the mountain.
8//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

SILVERSTAR
Just a few hours driving, our next stop was SilverStar Mountain Resort.
Walking through SilverStar village feels like you are on the set of an old
western movie. Modelled from the time when the mountain was home to
the old silver mines, they have managed to keep the mountain feeling
really authentic and the village is charming.
The first morning we headed out with one of the mountain hosts, Roy,
something I would thoroughly recommend anyone to do who is new to
the mountain. The hosts meet each morning at the village centre and
take people out to explore the mountain (all free of charge). It was a
great way to reacquaint ourselves with what SilverStar had to offer and
allowed us to get our bearings and learn more about where we were.
The frontside of the mountain offers something for everyone, with all
runs leading back eventually to the main village. However, what I’d
remembered most about SilverStar was the backside, sometimes
referred to as “the dark side” due to its deep powder and numerous
black and double black runs. When we had visited SilverStar many
years ago it had been opening day at Putman Creek (the backside) and
we had waited at the arches that lead to that side with the excited crew
of skiers and boarders all itching to get a taste of the untouched runs.
So after a quick tour of the frontside of the mountain, Roy took us back
to Putnam Creek. Snow had been gently falling most of the night and
had dusted the mountain with a few centimeters of fresh snow. Nothing
by Canadian standards, but enough to keep these two Kiwis’ happy.
SilverStar's stunning village
10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238
By day two we were skiing in 6cm of fresh snow which meant we could
pretty much ski anywhere. One of the things I loved about SilverStar
were the woods and glades. With no trees on our mountains back
home, they create a unique experience and once amongst the trees you
feel like you are really exploring. If you are a tree lover, head to either
Deer Park or Silver Woods Express Chair, you can pretty much take
any line and you’ll find yourself at the bottom of a chair.

Steep terrain is a big part of Revelstokes
reputation - images courtesy BC Tourism
Picturesque in the evening snow
So much to explore at Revelstoke
REVELSTOKE
Next on our journey was Revelstoke which offers a unique
experience compared to the other fields we visited. Unlike many
other destinations, Revelstoke Mountain Resort only offers one
ski-in/ski-out option. Most of the accommodation can be found
in town, which is only a short 8-minute drive away, so they are
almost one and the same. This time we opted for a couple of
nights in the town of Revelstoke. It had that old school vibe,
somewhat reminiscent of Wanaka before it became a higher-end
destination.
The day we arrived the snow was falling, creating a picturesque
bustling town full of restaurants, bars, shops, and all the
essentials for day-to-day life. The overnight snow deposited 12cm
of fresh powder on the slopes which created a buzz with locals
and visitors alike. It was here we witnessed our first crowds, a rare
occurrence, even in Revelstoke, but still nothing by NZ standards.
When researching the fast facts, I thought I’d got them wrong as
it was hard to believe their stats. Revelstoke is a big and steep
mountain, boasting a vertical drop that is 1000m greater than
almost all the other ski fields we visited. The gondola ride to the
top was a bit intimidating (watch for the infamous Kill The Banker
Run on your way up), but it provided a stunning view of the terrain
and some of the most extreme skiing we’ve seen so far. But don’t
let that deter you, there are plenty of slopes for intermediate
skiers too.
We met passionate locals who had a deep attachment and
love for Revelstoke. It was heartwarming to see their sense of
community and pride in their mountain.
Overall, Revelstoke provided us with a unique experience that
we thoroughly enjoyed, and we would recommend it to anyone
looking for a ski resort with a small-town charm and a big
mountain feel.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//11

Happy road-trippers
PANORAMA
Our next stop was Panorama Mountain Resort. The 3.5
hour drive took us through Glacier National Park and
Rogers Pass, the high mountain pass through the Selkirk
Mountains, and along the valley between the Kootenay
Mountain and the Purcell Mountain Ranges. The scenery
along the way was simply stunning.
Panorama did not disappoint. I think it really helps when
you know a mountain well, you are able to ski with ease,
knowing what’s around the next bend or behind the next
tree. The first day we experienced some firmer conditions
as we re-explored the mountain; the locals were eagerly
awaiting some fresh snow, which fortunately for us arrived
that night.
Panorama offers quite a variety of trails from perfectly
groomed, super wide runs with hardly anyone on them,
through to the glades and bowls of Sun Bowl, to the double
blacks of Taynton Bowl. We spent a lot of time in Sun Bowl
but were fortunate enough to experience Taynton Bowl
with a little help from the Monster X passenger snowcat.
Although the double black terrain was outside of our
skiable ability, we caught the Monster X cat up to the
top of the “Monster” terrain. We lucked on a calm clear
day where just being there was an experience in itself.
Although feeling slightly fraudulent being out in double
black terrain without the credentials to get ourselves safely
out, we soaked up everything about the experience before
skiing back in the tree line next to the cat track.
Panorama is situated in the Purcell Mountains and really
is embraced by them. Unlike some of the other resorts
where you look out and see mountains in the distance,
at Panorama you are the mountains, that’s all you can
see. There’s a run from the very top called “View of 1000
Peaks” and no lie, that’s what you can see on a clear day.
Since we were last in Panorama a few things had
changed; there had been major upgrades to the Alto
Restaurant and a huge development of the Nordic Centre
with the inclusion of fat bike hire and multi use Nordic trails
so we decided to head into the trails on the fat bikes. I had
always thought Kiwis’ were pretty active people but nothing
seems to compare with the Canadians who chose to live
in the mountains. When they are not downhill skiing, you’ll
find them snow shoeing, cross country skiing or fat biking.
We headed onto the Creek Trail on the advice of a local
cross country skier, and biked alongside Toby Creek that
runs through Panorama, another memorable experience.
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

Our road trip ended in Calgary and
the beauty of having a car meant we
could explore along the way. Banff and
Canmore were magical and on the road
we found some unique bars, a wolf
park, frozen vineyards, glaciers, out of
the way restaurants and plenty of big
horned sheep. The old adage could never
ring truer, "a great trip is less about the
destination and more about the journey."
WHY ROAD TRIP, A FEW TIPS?
• Make sure your car comes with snow
tyres, most rental cars do but it pays to ask
in advance.
• Book way in advance, you will find
that it is about half the price plus you’re
guaranteed a vehicle.
• If taking your own skis, bear in mind how
much room, you will need.
• Insurance – some generic travel
insurance you buy does cover car
insurance as well pays to check – it can be
a big saving.
• You don’t need to hire a GPS you have
your phone.
• Before you leave take a video of all of the
outside of the vehicle - just in case.
• Buy a stuffed kiwi or an NZ flag from the
2 dollar shop and leave it in the window of
the car – you will make lots of new friends.
• Drive slow – Canadians are used to
driving in the snow, you are not – be
prepared to hold up traffic.
• Stop a lot, it is easy to pass by lookouts
and places of interest that are amazing.
www.HelloBC.com/ski www.fijiairways.com
backcountrycuisine.co.nz
CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF KEEPING YOU FED IN THE OUTDOORS

Same-Day Snow
Be on the slopes of some of British Columbia’s
world-class ski fields on the day you arrive.
Air Canada is offering non-stop B787 Dreamliner flights between
Auckland and Vancouver from October 2023 to March 2024,
with passengers enjoying an award-winning three-cabin service.
Sun Peaks / Sam Egan
Panorama
Revelstoke / Ian Houghton
Whistler Blackcomb / Tourism Whistler
Call a Ski Travel Expert to book your ski/board holiday to Canada
0800 555 035

SilverStar snowshoe trails
SNOW SHOEING
THE ART OF DUCK WALKING
Words by Steve Dickinson - Images by Steve and other ducks
Ya look like a duck…Not a cool duck
floating on the water ducking its wee
head to chew weeds. Nore a duck flying
gracefully south for the winter. But a duck
on dry land, where its feet are too big
and it has to walk bow-legged and overexaggerated
just to get around. That’s
what I thought snowshoeing was like.
Basically, a ‘snow duck’ walking, and about
as cool as a duck on concrete.
I was wrong.
We met Kim and Lilly outside the activity
office at Silver Star Resort, I knew
straight away we were in trouble. Both
women were so enthusiastic, like really
enthusiastic, so animated and so keen,
they laughed more than they smiled,
and they smiled a lot. I was pretty much
exhausted and needed a lay down by the
end of the introductions.
Snowshoes on, poles in hand, (thank
goodness, poles are vital) we headed off
to the edge of the track. Here we were
shown the simple way to put your shoes
on, what buckles go where, what straps
need to be tight and what goes on what
foot. Shoes on, we were given the walking
demonstration, and I was right, it was
basically a duck walk. ‘Don’t step on your
own feet’, they advised; that was easier
said than done; ‘lean forward going up
slippery slopes,’ again easier said than
done! And lastly and even more in jest
‘let the crampons grab and when going
downhill use your poles’. Sounds simple
and it was... well, most of the time.
As the only male in the group, the only
thing that hurt more than my ego because
of the constant falls, was my ears from
the endless and relentless chatter, well
more of a torrent of laughter and chat, a
veritable cascading waterfall of words,
not just amongst ourselves but nearly
everyone we met on the track. There were
introductions and handshakes and kisses
goodbye, recipes shared and rendezvous
organised. Add that to a wealth of
information about the snow, the trees, the
area, the track we were on, the footprints
of the ‘snowshoe hare’ (which was very
cool) it was no wonder we got a little
distracted. Now don’t get me wrong, this
avalanche of constant chatter was all part
of the experience, it was a delight, it was
as entertaining as it was distracting.
We scooted along a path between snowcovered
trees, that you would not have
been able to walk through without the
snowshoes on due to the depth of the
snow. It felt like we were in the wilderness,
but we were not far away from anywhere,
occasionally we crossed what seemed like
a road but were advised it was a crosscountry
ski track and on occasion, we met
someone scooting along with a smile.
We eventually made it to Mountain View
Cabin and took in the views across the
valley to the ski fields in the distance.
Hot chocolate was dug out from a small
backpack, and Lily asked if we would
like to try her brownie. A lightbulb went
off, and now I considered the basis of all
the enthusiasm, based on the brownie
offer (bearing in mind the substance
is not illegal in Canada). But no, these
brownies were little more than black
beans and chocolate, all mushed up, and
marijuana free! Lily and Kim’s energy
was based purely on their enthusiasm to
be in the wild on the snow (and possibly
a touch of ADHD). Their passion was so
overwhelmingly contagious you could do
nothing but have a great time.
Brownie consumed, hot chocolate downed,
we headed back. 3 hours had gone by in
what seemed a moment, and there was
a little less slipping and falling. However,
confidence (pride) does come before a
fall, and there were still plenty of those.
We arrived back at Silver Star township
as the sun was setting. In the twilight and
softly falling snow, I reflected on the trip
that I first considered would be somewhat
boring, but was so much fun. And as with
so many adventure activities, it is often
less about what you do and more about
those you are with.
Maybe that’s why ducks fly in flocks south
for that winter – it’s less about where you
are going and more about who you are
with.
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Left to right, top to bottom: Not laughing at you, but laughing with you / Never look back / Brownies and hot chocolate / Lots of
things have changed but snow shoeing has been around for ever / Mountain View Cabin / Sliding down hill is half the fun / SilverStar
Village
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//17

SNOW SHOEING
LAKE TEKAPO
A KIWI OPTION
Images and text supplied by Alpine Recreation
High above Lake Tekapo in the Two Thumb Range, part of the Te Kahui Kaupeka Conservation Park, lies a cosy
mountain hut at 1300m, just above the snowline in the winter months July-September. Since 1985 this Alpine
Recreation hut has proved to be an ideal and increasingly popular base for snowshoeing and backcountry skiing.
Snowshoes allow keen hikers to easily access these Southern Alps foothills after a creamy coating of snow. 2-5 days
are ideal to explore these winter wonderlands - from fascinating ice designs in mountain streams to pavlova-whipped
curves on long ridges.
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Snowshoers near Ball Glacier, overlooking the upper Tasman Valley
Snowshoers near Rex Simpson Hut in the Two Thumb Range
Alpine Trekking guides give advice re best snowshoeing
technique for varying slope angles. Without tree roots or
rocks to negotiate like on a summer track you can look up
and take in the scenery instead of looking to see where
you're going to place your foot next. And that scenery is
pretty impressive - the main spine of the Southern Alps,
including Mounts Cook and Tasman and wide sweeps
across the Mackenzie Basin and its turquoise glacier lakes.
Go with a guide, who will lead you along ridges, up peaks
for grand views and along babbling mountain streams.
Each day the refreshment of the exercise is capped off with
relaxation beside a warm fire in a cosy mountain hut, with
meals cooked for you. No need to carry a sleeping bag and
only a small amount of fresh food in your pack as far as the
hut.
Added bonus: crisp clean mountain air helps avoid cold
bugs! And it's even more fun if you can grab a group of
your friends and team up for a holiday with a difference,
experiencing the magic of winter.
Snowshoers on Ball Ridge in front of the Caroline Face of
Aoraki Mount Cook
Contact: www.alpinerecreation.com

Rich Turner traversing the ridge above Te Puoho cirque in the
Central Darrans, northern Fiordland
OBVIOUS IN HINDSIGHT
A FIRST-ASCENT MISSION
IN FIORDLAND
Words and photos by Derek Cheng
It's obvious in hindsight, but bragging about a rope
that'd never had to catch a fall was always going to
doom it to be fallen on.
The fall that was always going to happen took
place on Statue Wall, a 300m-high cliff that
connects Te Wera and Karetai in the Central
Darrans, Fiordland, where the rope's services had
been in use for several seasons.
The day had started with a survey of the left side
of the wall for a new line. Having chosen one,
Wellington-based climber Richard Thomson
climbed up a slabby, serpentine rib. Golden Baybased
Richard Turner then led through a cruxy roof
to a ledge system.
I started pitch three up a gentle dihedral, which,
given how gentle it was, was unsurprisingly strewn
with debris. With my ropes and belayers well to my
left, I started hurling loose rocks down the wall to
my right.
A few moves higher, though, and I came to
something that demanded extra care: a death block
the length of my arm and shaped like an elaborate
lamp. I gathered its cumbersome heft in both hands
and, shifting my weight from left to right, unleashed
my turbo-throw.
All of a sudden, to my horror and confusion, I was
airborne. To my even greater horror, the bulky rock
dropped between me and the ropes. I fell some
15 metres, my left butt cheek colliding with a slab,
before a certain rope took its first catch.
The climbing gear that caught the fall—along with
the rope—was a Black Diamond Camelot placed
several metres below me in a crack. It was the
latest addition to the gear stash at the bivvy cave
known as Turner’s Eyrie. Thomson had showcased
its shiny newness before taking it up to replace a
brontosaurus-era cam that'd been lost the previous
season. It’s obvious in hindsight, but this was
always going to mean it was about to be fallen on.
But this also meant it was a good way to fall—on a
new piece of gear and a previously fall-free rope.
I uncrumpled myself from the slab, scrambled
to a stance, and proclaimed my excellence in
preparedness. Having been hurt once or twice
in remote places, I’d started carrying ibuprofen,
paracetamol and tramadol in my chalk bag, which I
now eagerly reached for.
Rich Turner descending gingerly after completing a first ascent
on the Statue Wall above Lake Turner, northern Fiordland.
20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//21

After topping out the Statue Wall, Rich Turner and Richard Thomson relax on the ridge amid the peaks above Te Puoho glacier.
I climbed back up to where a scar on the rock betrayed
what had happened: my right foothold had sheared off
as I’d transferred my weight onto it. All the excitement
had flashed by in a hurry. Only now did I understand
how easily the death block could have sheared through
my ropes, which would have seen me plummet all the
way down. Instead all I had to contend with was a dull
ache in my butt cheek, and a bruised ego.
I continued up the corner to a spectacular overhang,
which, thanks to some joyfully enormous holds, was
easily overcome. Thomson then led the fourth pitch up
a steep corner to a large slab, which was so luxuriously
roomy that I promptly lay down for a tramadol-induced
siesta.
Turner took the ropes to the spectacular views at the
top of the face: the Lake Turner basin to the west,
bordered by the undulating ridgeline from Mt Patuki in
the south to Mt Madeline to the north; the Te Puoho
cirque to the east, with granite giant Mt Taiaroa
dwarfing the glacial lake below, and, in the distance,
the meandering Hollyford River.
We took our time. It was still early afternoon and,
though clouds were hovering, there seemed to be no
need to rush down from the exquisite solitude and
natural beauty encompassing us. These mountains,
never crowded, are as enchanting and majestic as
any in the country, and they should always be inhaled
slowly.
Eventually, we traversed carefully and delicately along
the ridge to the north, towards Te Wera, and then down
a low-angled slope to the base of the wall where we
gathered our packs before returning to Turner’s Eyrie.
It’s always a unique blend of feelings after succeeding
at a first ascent. Until that day, no one had touched
the rock on that part of the wall, and trying to climb it
is shrouded in nervous uncertainty about whether it is
22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

possible, and, if so, how risky it might be; there are
no bolts, and we have to place our own gear into the
wall’s cracks and crevices to protect ourselves from
any potential fall. Whether there will be placements,
and if so, how many, are questions that hover over
every move.
So there’s the elation at having summited, but also
relief for having not crushed anyone beneath me while
throwing down loose rocks, contented fatigue from the
day's mental and physical exertion, and gratitude for
the adventure in a part of the country as remote as it
is beautiful.
Not that it was free of near-misses, after which
I always try and consider what I should've done
differently. The lesson from the previous season,to
carry some pills in my chalk bag, had followed a
ground fall while first-ascenting on a nearby face,
having left my first aid kit behind at our bivvy spot.
This time, like last time, there was a clear lesson that I
already knew but had neglected: to keep any potential
fall to a minimum, place a piece of protective gear
before trying to throw a wrecking ball of rock from your
perch. It was a lesson that, thankfully, hadn’t come at
a high price.
I’d faced a similar scenario a few weeks earlier, but
I hadn’t learnt anything as there’d been no price
to pay. I was on a craggy cliff below Mt Syme, in a
neighbouring cirque, and leading up a long crack
system that would eventually become a new threepitch
route.
My friend Nick Flyvbjerg had climbed the first pitch,
starting up a two-crack system that eventually
petered out and demanded a committing move above
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//23

Nick Flyvbjerg belaying as Rachel Knott heads up pitch three of a new route
on a crag below Mount Syme, in northern Fiordland.
questionable gear. He committed, latched a hold, and
continued up to a perch at the base of a corner, which
I then climbed into a crack and chimney feature. But it
was, unsurprisingly, clogged with debris—not unusual for
terrain that climbers have yet to sample.
With my belayers around a corner and well out of the
line of fire, I was carefully discarding loose rocks to the
abyss below. Most were no larger than my fist, but near
the top of the pitch, I encountered a block the size of a
50-litre pack. It wobbled alarmingly when I reached up
and touched it. A metallic, echoey sound followed, familiar
to anyone who has witnessed massive blocks of rock
moving against each other.
It’s terrifying to be on the sharp end when you know a
fall will have serious consequences, but at least you
only have yourself to blame for being in that position. It’s
even more terrifying to be an inch from dropping a death
block on someone below you, knowing that anything that
happens will be triggered by your own hand.
The dilemma: leave the block as is, and hope my climbing
partners will climb up without any harm coming to anyone;
or dislodge it myself, and hope it doesn’t obliterate my
ropes, which would leave me stranded in the middle
of the mountain. One of these options was more in my
control than the other, so I opted for the latter.
The block was sitting on a flat ledge, spacious enough
for me to straddle it, facing out. I grabbed its lower love
handles, braced myself, and then gripped and trundled
for all I was worth. It was, of course, a heavy bastard, and
almost totally immune to my efforts. It barely scraped over
the edge before hitting something on the way down, and
exploding into a zillion pieces.
Dust rose up in the aftermath, as if a bomb had exploded.
When it cleared, I could see that the ropes I was leading
on seemed unscathed, thankfully. I also managed to keep
my stance, well above my last piece of protective gear.
Who knows what fate would have befallen me had I lost
my footing, having not placed a fresh piece of gear—as
would happen a few weeks later on Statue Wall.
The third in our climbing team trio, Rachel Knott, took the
ropes to the top of the wall via a series of cracks without
any further drama. From there, we descended the snow
slope back to our bags, and then hiked back to our bivvy
spot, taking our time with a dip in some natural pools on
the way.
Lying in the sun to dry off, I thought about all the elements
that have to come together to pull off a first ascent:
choose a line, hope it has enough gear placements to
keep you within an acceptable safety margin, deal with
any loose rocks without unduly endangering yourself or
your climbing partners, do the actual climbing that the
route demands, and hopefully get everyone up—and
down—safely before the weather turns to custard.
And just as importantly, learn any lessons in the aftermath
so you're better prepared for next time.
Nick Flyvbjerg venturing into virgin terrain on the first pitch of a new climb.
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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//25

AFTER DARK
THE ART OF WINTER FISHING
Words and images by Ben Henton
It’s early May. Icey mornings, days are short. The sun
seems to rise just in time to set. By early afternoon
your breath is again visible as it hangs in the air like a
momentary fog. The familiar smell of fires burning in
homes across New Zealand fills the air, all in preparation
for the cold night ahead. The sky has opened, and rain
is coming down in sheets, hitting the roof of the car with
such force that you need to raise your voice to be heard.
While most will be tucked inside by the fire tonight, you’ll
find me gearing up and heading out into the darkness.
The winter shoreline fishing season is upon us, and for
me, this deluge is cause for celebration.
I’ve always had a passion for fishing. I would go so far as
to say it’s an obsession. My parents love to tell the story
of using a picture of a fish to calm me down as a baby if
I was ever upset (which I’m sure was hardly ever). As a
young fella, I would be out in my grandparent’s garden for
hours trying to catch their goldfish with a stick and some
twine.
Once I mastered walking, I graduated from the goldfish
pond to my first proper spinning rod. My dad is a keen fly
fisherman, so I would tag along with him any chance I got.
Unfortunately for me, some of his favourite haunts were
fly fishing only, so I’d have to watch with bated breath from
the shore, rugged up in warm clothes and gum boots on,
as a handful of anglers would roll the dice for a monster.
But in no time, the light would fade, and I’d have to try
and make sense of the distant noises: the elegant sound
of a line being cast, the noise of a reel peeling into its
backing, the splash of a trout breaking the surface. On a
good night, dad would be in a few times every hour with
some monster trout, then eventually, once he had a bin
full, would take a break to warm up with a hot cuppa and
try to get the feeling back in his fingers. I’d sit in awe as he
recounted every minute detail of how he landed each fish.
This was more than just a hobby; this was an art form. On
a bad night, we’d head back to the car at midnight, emptyhanded,
hoping to catch a few hours sleep before we
kicked off again at 5am. The thrill of it all was intoxicating,
and over time my hunger for fly fishing grew. By the age of
10, I finally converted. From that night on I never looked
back - it was fly or die. This is why night fishing holds such
a special place in my heart. This is where my fly-fishing
journey first began. Night time.
Here in New Zealand, and in particular, where I live In the
Bay Of Plenty, we’re absolutely spoiled for choice when
it comes to fishing. An hour in any direction will land you
in the heart of world-class trout fishing all year round.
While overseas anglers might be hanging up their gear
for the winter, for us this is prime time. Our winter fishery
transforms, as all the elusive large rainbow trout that
usually hide out in the depths, finally leave the abyss and
make their way to a stream, river or sandy gravel shore to
spawn. Schools of massive trout line the shoreline, driven
by instinct to carry on their lineage, besieged by a handful
of anglers crazy enough to brave the elements in the hope
of bagging a trophy, dinner, or sometimes just anything.
Day or night, winter shoreline fishing is second to none.
Starting your fly-fishing journey at nighttime has its
disadvantages. You can’t really see what you’re doing,
so learning to cast can be difficult. I would spend hours
practising my cast after school and on weekends in the
paddock across the road from my house. Aiming for
different patches of dirt with each flick, desperately trying
to improve my accuracy and distance, or at the very
least to not blind one of the resident cattle looking on
from the side. Somehow, I got a hold of a pair of secondhand
waders. Way too big, leaky, but surely better than
the shorts I had been wearing. I eventually resorted to
tying bread bags to my feet to keep my socks dry, which
seemed to help a bit but didn’t do much for the cold.
Big rainbows like this are a common sight for those willing to brave the elements and head out into the night!
26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

"For me, the
excitement
of fishing
after dark
is second to
none."
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//27

Top left to right: I watched this fish eat my fly in knee deep crystal clear water! Sight fishing the shorelines in winter fishing can be exhilarating. / A local lake of mine that offers stunning
scenery and fishing all year round with no closure.Bottom left to right: Heading up a favourite river full of fish that have started migrating up from a lake to spawn. In competition mode!
Netting a fish on a training weekend with the Sports fly fishing New Zealand development squad.
If you have any questions or need some advice, Ben is happy to help out. You can contact him on @hentonguiding
Leaky waders and no idea what I was doing in sub-zero
temperatures, but absolutely driven to land some of the
monsters I’d seen dad bringing in night after night. It took
about two winters and many hours on the water before I finally
landed my first fish on the fly. A moment I’ll never forget. I was
hooked. Pretty soon, I was saving every dollar I could scrape
together for my first fly rod, the Kilwell innovation, a rod I still
use to this day, 23 years later.
For me the excitement of fishing after dark is second to none.
Your senses completely change when you can no longer
rely on sight. In the dead of night, touch and sound are all
you have to figure out where to aim, your rhythm, and when
to strike. I can often tell who’s fishing next to me just by the
sound of their cast, and when the line goes tight, the chance of
it being an 8lb plus fish is common.
Night fishing is also one of the rare times I’ll catch for the
table. Fish and Game do a great job managing the fishery and
ensure a healthy stocking of fish every year. A fish will grow to
about 8lb in just three years. Any wild fish or double digits that
meet the end of my line will be returned to the water, in order
to carry on its good genetics, but I’ll make an exception for
one, a fish of a lifetime. A trophy that I’ll know when I see it, but
I haven’t seen it yet.
I came close not long ago. It was me, my dad and two
other mates. The fishing was hard but in perfect conditions.
Torrential downpours and no wind. We were fishing a favourite
bush-clad local lake, the two mates had finally had enough and
pulled the pin early. Just me and dad left to battle it out, the
whole place to ourselves. Suddenly like a switch, the fishing
was on! Multiple fish came to shore, including a trophy most
people dream of catching - a beautiful 11.5lb rainbow jack. I
took a few photos and let him go. He wasn’t destined for the
wall, but what a moment to share with my old man. One we’ll
never forget.
In recent years my focus has been on competitive fly fishing. I
started with the goal to represent New Zealand and test myself
against the best in the game. What I didn’t realise was the
sheer skill needed to compete, and the benefit to my fishing
that would come from battling it out, weekend after weekend,
with some incredible anglers. Skills I now bring to night fishing.
Though it’s a slower pace, night fishing feels like home. It’s far
more relaxed than comp fishing and reminds me why I love
this sport so much. It’s just me and my mate out there, losing
track of time into the wee hours. Talking rubbish over a brew,
unlike competition fly fishing which takes complete focus,
endless work and constant refining the process. There are no
medals in night fishing, just camaraderie and a box of beers at
the end of the season for the mate who landed the biggest fish
- it’s good for the soul!
With the arrival of my son a few years ago, the memories of
night fishing with my dad come flooding back. Thankfully the
young fella is pretty partial to a fish himself and often heads
out with me in the backpack for a cheeky flick after work.
Hopefully, with any luck in years to come, he’ll catch the
bug, and be out fishing the night away, maybe even with his
grandad too. I’ll just make sure he only needs a bread bag
on one side for leaks - he can’t have it too easy. For those
who aren’t mad, and prepared to get wet socks, todays gear
is out of this world. I’m using the Orvis Pro jacket, which has
stood up to some of the most torrential downpours you could
imagine. Staying warm, dry and comfortable means I can focus
on my fishing and stay out for longer. The guys at Killwell carry
a good range of Orvis gear to cover all your bases and have
the expert local knowledge to point you in the right direction. If
you’ve ever wondered whether to give winter fishing a chance,
I’d encourage it! Come out and join me in the picket line. Make
sure you say ‘g-day’ when I’m having that half-time cuppa, I’m
more than happy for a yarn or to offer some friendly advice.
Most people call me crazy when I tell them I love winter, but
for me nothing beats the hunt. Standing out in the lake, rain
falling, just you and your mates. Even better when everything
goes your way, for me, the long nights are when time is
inconsequential and nothing else matters.
This is my happy place.
28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

WADING SYSTEM
DESIGNED FOR ANGLERS
BUILT FOR
ATHLETES
ROCK STEADY
43% BETTER WET RUBBER TRACTION
For more information visit www.kilwell.co.nz

All-inclusive
package from
$440 per person
(twin share)
Package includes:
• Track transfers
• Coffee and cake on arrival at
On the Track Lodge
• 2 nights in comfortable chalet
accommodation*
• All meals (Day 1 dinner & dessert,
Day 2 breakfast, packed lunch & dinner
& dessert, Day 3 breakfast & packed
lunch). Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free
meals available)
• Use of On the Track Lodge kayaks
and all other amenities, including a
hot-tub.
*Upgrade to stay in the newly
renovated vintage train carriages
(with private bathroom).
Discover the hidden wonders of the Nydia Track, it is not as well known or
busy as the Queen Charlotte Track but just as beautiful.
The track takes you through coastal forest (rimu, nikau and beech) with
superb views and is suitable for people with a reasonable level of fitness,
boots are recommended and some of the streams are not bridged.
• Start from Havelock and take a shuttle to historic Kaiuma Bay, (4-5 hours).
• Dine then stay at On the Track Lodge in a comfortable chalet
or train carriage accommodation.
• Spend the next day relaxing at the lodge, kayaking or taking some shorter walks.
• The next day complete the rest of the tramp (carrying your freshly
prepared packed lunch) to Duncan Bay in time for another shuttle ride back to Havelock.
On The Track Lodge
Nydia Track, Marlborough Sounds
+643 579 8411 | stay@onthetracklodge.nz
www.onthetracklodge.nz

CONQUERING THE
WAIAU PASS
PRISTINE WATERS, GRUELLING CLIMB,
AND A TRAGIC PAST
Words and images by Eric Skilling
Sceptical. That was my first reaction when
hearing the claim about the Blue Lake
having the clearest waters in the world.
It was just a bit unbelievable. Firstly,
how could “clearest” be measured, and
secondly if it were true then why wasn’t it
world famous - search ‘Blue Lake NZ’ and
you will end up just outside Rotorua in the
North Island?
Science easily confirms the accuracy of
the first question. As for the lack of fame
– undoubtably because the South Island
Lake is a nine-hour walk with an overnight
stay in the wilderness; while at the other
‘Northern One’ you can tow your boat to
the water’s edge, go water-skiing and
then walk across the road and get an ice
cream.
We found that the further we travelled up
the valley, the more spectacular the terrain
became. Lake Constance - an hour’s walk
from the unique Blue Lake - is a spectacle
on its own. Personally, my main goal
was to take on the punishing climb to the
Waiau Pass, with its unique views to the
ranges of the Spenser Mountains.
Bird life is prolific thanks to some intense
pest control by “Friends of Lake Rotoiti”.
The beech forest is full of the calls of
bellbirds, tui, and the diminutive rifleman.
It’s a pleasure to pitch tent and enjoy their
calls as you drop off to sleep at night, and
again when you wake in the morning.
Perhaps it’s a little disturbing to learn
the track is now part of the Te Araroa
trail. There is absolutely no debate that
the track should be part of the trail. The
disturbing bit is that more foreigners
are getting to appreciate the beauty
and challenges of the area than New
Zealanders. During the five-days we spent
travelling the valley, we finished each
day chatting with Germans, Canadians,
English, Israelis, Australians and Czechs
and the odd kiwi. Almost all raved about
their experiences traversing the nearby
Richmond range, but they were all in awe
of what they had seen so far in the Nelson
Lakes National Park.
Choosing to spend a night at West
Sabine, and two nights at Blue Lake, gave
us time to enjoy the lake, and achieve the
goal of making it to the head of the valley
and reach Waiau Pass.
First Day: Lake Rotoroa at 400m to
West Sabine Hut at 800m elevation (5
hours) Thankfully Donald, a local, chose
to begin our trip with the half hour water
taxi across the glassy-calm waters of Lake
Rotoroa to the jetty at Sabine Hut. It is
possible to walk in via Speargrass Hut or
over the Travers Saddle, but this was a far
more sensible approach.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//31

Donald negotiating one of the many slips on the trail
Walking through South Island Beech
Forest- the floor dappled with spots of
sunlight - is an incomparable way to chill
out and reprioritise. The noisy Sabine
River track was a constant companion,
either close alongside the trail or within
hearing distance.
The impact of last year’s heavy rains in
the region everywhere. The trail often
diverted away from the river through to
freshly cut paths around fresh slips and
collapsed riverbanks. Mostly the track
followed the narrow space between the
steep valley river, often meandering
through grassy flats or loose slips, and
crossing small tributaries where we
refilled water bottles.
Within the first hour we reached a bridge
across a small and narrow but deep
gorge. Below us we got a glimpse of the
crystal-clear waters flowing from the Blue
Lake. Some logs lying on the riverbed
could be seen as clear as if they were
millimetres below the water surface.
Perfectly sited to pick up the sun,
West Sabine hut must be a warm spot
on a cold day. During our visit it was
impersonating a sauna. Fortunately, there
are plenty of superb camping spots set
amongst the trees and close to the river,
so I braved the sandflies while Donald
chose the sweatbox.
My reward was the company of two
natives – a very curious and cheeky
Robin and a daring weka. And I woke
to the inimitable sounds of a multi-piece
orchestra of native bird calls. Donald’s
reward was – well, I don’t really know.
Second Day: West Sabine to Blue
Lake Hut 1200m (3 hours) We took
longer than three hours. It was sunny
and hot. Mountain beech becomes more
prominent along this stretch. There are
short stretches across scree slopes, and
a more rugged section alongside some
spectacular rapids with glistening spray
as water cascaded over the boulders.
On these sections we got full views of
the rocky peaks soaring steeply above
us, looking all that more ominous with
numerous scree slopes.
Stopping for a very brief but very cooling
swim, with complimentary ice-cream
headache, was well worth the pain before
we tackled the final steep and broken
stretch to the hut.
Blue Lake Hut, a stone’s throw from the
lake, is placed in one of the last clumps
of forest before the smaller sub-alpine
shrubs and tussocks dominate.
Words failed us as we wandered around
the edge of the lake. We kept staring
into the bright blue water. It seemed
to get clearer and deeper as we made
our way around to the southern end. A
shallow stream fed icy-cold (5 degrees
centigrade) perfectly filtered water from
Lake Constance – out of sight above us.
Roughly kidney shaped and probably 250
metres long, the outflow to the north is
through a small cluster of rocks ranging
up to the size of a small truck. It was
no surprise when Marko, the local DOC
volunteer hut warden recommended we
drink water from the outflow of the lake in
preference to the roof-fed tank water at
the hut. To keep the waters pristine the
rule is ‘Don’t Touch!’
Blue Lake Hut to Waiau Pass 1870m
(7 hours return). Getting to top of Waiau
Pass is high on the list of the most
challenging sections of the entire 3,000
km Te Araroa Trail. We set off early,
feeling inspired by the light daypacks and
a near perfect day.
A wide field of broken boulders meets you
after the steep climb up the slip to Lake
Constance. The precipitous, slip-strewn
ridges of Mt Franklin line the eastern side
of the lake. A small ridge on the western
edge hides the distant top of the lake. It
was sobering to consider the ridge was
the scene of a tragedy in 2013 when Te
Araroa walker Andy Wyatt wandered off
the path and slid to his death.
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Lone tramper heading dowm Waiau Pass towards lake Constance
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//33

Steep sided Sabine Valley below Blue Lake Hut
The famous hamburger rock and the pristine waters of the Blue Lake
George and Katerina inspired me to reach the top of the Waiau Pass
Today, with hardly a breath of wind stirring
the water, the serenity was still tinged with
a little sadness.
My tramping buddy chose to spend more
time exploring the lake before making his
way back to the hut. I continued my way
up the scree slope to the top of the small
ridge and lingered for a few minutes out
of respect for Andy and pondered the
impact the tragedy would have had on his
friends and family.
Once off the very steep track back down
the lake, I had the good fortune to meet
Katerina and George from the Czech
Republic, resting after lugging their
full packs to this point. It was great to
share the experience with them before I
continued my way.
The valley leading up to Waiau Pass is
a photographer’s dream. Tussock and
other tall alpine grasses layered the
valley floor. Ahead the imposing slopes
of Mt Mahanga (2196m) blocked the way
ahead. I got so distracted by the stunning
scene that I accidently wandered off the
track but thankfully Katerina and George
caught me up and pointed me in the right
direction.
I have to confess that if it wasn’t for the
inspiration of my two new companions, I
might never have reached the pass. They
attacked the slope, leaning hard against
the weight of their packs.
I followed the most obvious of the many
zig zag paths across the scree and
eventually made it to the first of many
false tops. Ahead of me my companions
made it over the crest and disappeared.
Stopping at one stage I turned to take
in the absolute rugged grandeur of the
place, with the striking contrast of the
rocky mountains against the blue waters
of Lake Constance. Sometime later I
made my way - heart rate well about the
80% of max - to the small plateau before
the last 156 metre climb to the pass itself.
A thousand or so calories later I was
standing on the pass, staring across at
the St James Range and the source of
the Clarence River, feeling stoked.
Three thousand hikers were expected to
complete the Te Araroa trail from Cape
Reinga to Bluff over the 2022/23 season
and make it over this pass. It felt good
to have shared this place with those
adventurers.
34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238
Eric chooses to use Backcountry, Macpac, JetBoil and Keen products

NZ GREAT WALKS
AN APP-TITUDE FOR A SOLUTION
In May, 20,000 bunks on the
Milford Track were snapped
up in minutes, and it seems
many hut booking systems
suffers the same fate. It’s not
a question of being quick,
it simply boils down to luck.
However, a lot of those who do
manage to book, book multiple
options and cancel as they
don’t need them.
James Morgan said ‘enough is
enough’ and built an app that
tracks cancellations, telling
those people who missed out
if and when a bed becomes
available. Smart idea! We
caught up with James and dug
a little deeper.
Who is James Morgan? Well, I am a 29 year old Aucklander who
has a natural love for hiking and the outdoors. Particularly during the
Covid lockdowns we started ticking off every walk around Auckland and
ever since we have been trying to get out as much as possible on the
weekends to go hiking and explore NZ’s walks.
As a software developer – exactly what is it that you do when not
designing tramping apps? For work I lead the analytics team for the
advertising company called dentsu. We have data scientists, analysts
and engineers that work on a range of different things, but mostly we
aim to draw insights that help us to ensure that the media that dentsu
buys for its clients is as effective as possible.
Are you involved in the coding aspect or the concept and the
design or all three? I was involved across all three of these. I
have quite a bit of backend development experience which came in
particularly handy for designing and building the applications core
functionality. I then connected this up to a frontend template that I
found online and modified, which gives you the look and feel that you
can see today.
How did the idea of the app come about?
The idea came from my partner's parents who were trying to book the
Routeburn huts with no luck, so I built the first iteration of the tool which
purely looked for their walk dates and had no nice user interface to
use. After they managed to get 4 spots through using the tool, I figured
that booking huts on these trails is a common problem and lots of other
people would value a tool like this to help them to book as well.
Explain how it works? The application has two components, the
scanning component, and the alerts component. The scanning
component is constantly scanning for hut availability across all the
Great Walks for the current season. Then the alerts component tries
to match the scan with an alert that someone has set up. If there is a
match, then that person will receive an email notifying them that a spot
is available at their hut and that they should go ahead and book whilst
the spot is still available.
There are bots out there that prefill in booking forms and re-apply
– this is not that correct? Whilst these tools probably exist in the
world, DOC mentioned that “they had seen no evidence of “automatic”
generation or pre-filled forms being submitted by scripts. All the
bookings last year were connected to at least one real hiker”.
I also decided not to go down this route as DOC really does frown upon
these kinds of applications as well and I want to ensure I am working in
a way that they are comfortable with. There are also people looking for
the same spots as one another and I want to ensure that everyone has
a fair chance in securing their spot, so making the actual booking isn’t
really an option for my application.
Developer of NZ Great Walks Alert app, James Morgan
36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

Please explain exactly how it work
for the user? People can get use the
application to secure their spot in 3
simple steps;
1. Jump onto the website and enter
the details for the hut and date that
you are trying to book.
2. If there are spots available that
match the alert, then the application
will immediately send that person
an email to let them know that there
is an available alert.
3. That person can then follow the link
to the DOC booking system as soon
as the notification comes through to
secure their spot before it is taken.
Is there a cost? Not currently, the
application is free to everyone who is
wanting to use it.
Have you had any feedback from DoC
by way of support or at all? DOC said
that they are “neutral” on the use of such
apps, but they do “support initiatives that
help visitors”. They are however very
clear that they do condone the use of
bots to make the actual bookings.
Are these types of independent apps
available in other countries? My
application is available to anyone who
is wanting to use it, regardless of their
country. Anyone visiting New Zealand
can also book these huts so I see no
reason to limit its use.
Are you surprised – seeing this is a
‘service’ that DoC has not already
started a similar system? Yes, I am
surprised as the way that I see it is that
a notifications service these days is a
natural part of any bookings system. It
improves customer service / satisfaction
as well as helps to ensure that your
facilities are at maximum occupancy.
However, they mentioned that they have
no plan to set up their own waiting list or
notifications app.
A lot of countries have permit and
even ballot options simply to walk
in an area let alone stay – do you
think this this would be a solution
to overcrowding? That’s a good
question. I think that having some of the
availability on ballot might work, but the
nature of these bookings is that people
are also constantly changing their plans
and cancelling their spot, and I think a
purely balloted system might struggle
with this. I also feel that those people
who are willing to put in the effort to be
there ready for when the season opens
or jumping into the website when a spot
opens should also be rewarded.
Do you intend to expand the app?
Yes, there has been lots of demand for
this application to be extended to cover
some of the other high occupancy huts
that DOC has. I am currently working
to build this out as a new feature to be
released over the coming months.
Have you any more projects in the
wings that we should know about? I
always have lots of ideas for projects,
but for now my focus is on perfecting this
application and expanding it into some of
the other high occupancy huts.
38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//39

CRANKWORX
ROTORUA NEW ZEALAND
Crankworx Rotorua took flight in March
2015, becoming the first festival outside of
North America and Europe. Since then, it’s
played host to some of the most memorable
moments in Crankworx history and is now
referred to as “the soul of Crankworx” due
to its unique ability to combine riding with
culture. It is the most-watched mountain
bike event in the world. Rotorua, centrally
located in the North Island, has an enviable
backyard – otherworldly geothermal
landscapes, 18 crystal-clear lakes and
beautiful native forests.
It’s also the ultimate destination for
year-round mountain biking, with more
than 200 kilometres of world-renowned
mountain bike trails weaving through
Whakarewarewa Forest, plus Skyline
Rotorua’s all-downhill MTB Park. Add to
this the numerous tourism activities and
attractions. So add the perfect location,
the best mountain bikers in the world and
the most challenging event, and you have
the perfect ingredients to create a worldclass
event – here is this year’s rundown
provided by Crankworx.
The event kicked off with slopestyle
competition, Johansson kicked off his
Crankworx season the way he ended the
last, with yet another impressive victory.
However, it was far from easy for the
Swede who was pushed all the way by
Poland’s Dawid Godziek. Seeking a third
Triple Crown of Crankworx in three years,
Johansson showed no sign of rustiness as
he scored 93.75 with a hugely technical
run that included a 360 barspin to double
downside whips both ways and a new flat
drop flip x-up. That left him top of the table
after his first run, ahead of Godziek on
91.5 and the UK's Tom Isted on 88. The
Brit then failed to improve on his first run
score, while Godziek raised the bar with a
second run full of hammers – including a
cashroll barspin on the stepdown, and a
twister no hander.
However, the Polish rider could only
secure a 93.5 and Johansson could
relax during his second run, safe in the
knowledge he had already secured a 10th
victory on the tour.Johansson, 23, said:
“We are all competing because we like to
push ourselves, and it makes us grow. We
push each other by pushing ourselves. It’s
sick to be part of it and to play a part in the
progression. Everyone is evolving all the
time and that’s what keeps competitions
fun and interesting.”
Sunday also saw the Dual Slalom take
place and in the women’s event it was
Aussie rider Burbidge-Smith against the
UK's Martha Gil in an explosive final.
After Burbidge-Smith had edged the first
run, in a first for Crankworx, both riders
were disqualified for missing a gate in the
second run and, after a lengthy review, the
win was awarded to the Australian.
Burbidge-Smith, 26, said: “I had to be
cleared to race today because I hit my
head pretty hard during Speed & Style
yesterday. I had a good time in the first
run, which was lucky as we both missed
flags in the second run.”
In the men’s final, last year’s winner
Jackson Frew attempted to defend his title
against local favourite Tuhoto-Ariki Pene.
The Kiwi grabbed the early advantage,
crossing the line with a narrow lead on
the first run. However, he couldn't hold
on and slid out at the bottom of the final
run, handing the gold medal to Australian
Frew.
Earlier in the week, five-time world
champion Bruni was able to keep his
composure through the challenging
conditions with the fastest downhill time of
3:00.348, which just edged out Sweden's
Oliver Zwar (3:00.692) with American
Neko Mulally third in a time of 3:01.287.
Nice native Bruni, 28, said: "My run was
pretty late in the day, so it was tough to
stay in the headspace especially with it
getting darker in the woods. I did pretty
good on the top sections, but I couldn't
really adapt to the track. I did a few small
mistakes, but I was feeling fast by the time
I reached the bottom. Feeling like I am
starting the season in the best way, so I
am feeling stoked."
In the women's downhill final, Blewitt
won her first World Tour gold medal, after
winning the junior category in 2020, with
compatriots Jenna Hastings second and
Shania Rawson third.
Blewitt, 20, said: "My run went to plan.
My plan being to keep it rubber side down
and that worked. I had got a little bit loose
in a few spots, but overall pretty happy.
Rotorua is a hard track in that you don't
know how much you can really push, but I
think it was a smart race run."
Elsewhere during the week, competitors
participating in the Pump Track Challenge
were treated to a freshly reshaped, tight
and technical course.
In the women’s final, Caroline Buchanan
got the better of Kalani Hines to make
it back-to-back victories at the New
Zealand venue, while the bronze medal
match-up saw two home favourites battle
it out as Jessie Smith narrowly edged
out compatriot Shania Rawson. There
was also a home hope in the men’s final
as Kiwi rider Tuhoto-Ariki Pene took on
current UCI Pump Track World Champion
Niels Bensink from the Netherlands.
Pene delighted his home crowd as he
went all out in the second of two runs
to overcome Bensink's first run time
advantage and claim the title. Third place
went to Australia’s Jayce Cunning who
defeated Bas van Steenbergen.
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In the Speed & Style event – which combines elements of Dual
Slalom and Slopestyle – there was yet more home success as
New Zealand’s Robin Goomes overcame Australia’s Caroline
Buchanan in the final.The Kiwi rider put together a stylish run as
she combined plenty of speed with some huge backflips to take
the win. Britain’s Martha Gill claimed bronze after overcoming
New Zealand’s Jenna Hastings.
Maxxis Slopestyle winner, Emil Johansson
In the men’s event, Australia’s Mike Ross edged out British rider
Kade Edwards in a thrilling final that saw Ross pull off some
trademark tricks including a huge cash roll on the first jump. In
an equally enthralling bronze medal match, Frenchman Tomas
Lemoine overcame American rider Garret Mechem to claim third
place
Results – RockShox Taniwha Downhill
1) Loic Bruni (FRA) 3:00.348 // Jess Blewitt (NZL) 3:35.792
2) Oliver Zwar (SWE) 3:00.692 // Jenna Hastings (NZL) 3:42.234
3) Neko Mulally (USA) 3:01.287 // Shania Rawson (NZL)
3:45.540
Tuhoto-Ariki Pene and Jackson Frew
Pump Track Challenge presented by Torpedo7
1) Tuhoto-Ariki Pene (NZL) // Caroline Buchanan (AUS)
2) Niels Bensink (NED) // Kalani Hines (USA)
3) Jayce Cunning (AUS) // Jessie Smith (NZL)
Speed & Style Rotorua
1) Mike Ross (AUS) // Robin Goomes (NZL)
2) Kade Edwards (GBR) // Caroline Buchanan (AUS)
3) Tomas Lemoine (FRA) // Martha Gill (GBR)
Maxxis Slopestyle in Memory of McGazza
1) Emil Johansson (SWE)
2) Dawid Godziek (POL)
3) Tom Isted (GBR)
Dual Slalom Rotorua
1) Jackson Frew (AUS) // Harriet Burbidge-Smith (AUS)
2) Tuhoto-Ariki Pene (NZL) // Martha Gil (GBR)
3) Bas van Steenbergen (CAN) // Jenna Hastings (NZL)
For upcoming events keep tuned at:
www.crankworx.com/festival/rotorua/
Harriet Burbidge-Smith
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//41

#theshackletonwhisky

Ben Harrington at World Champs - Image by FIS Freestyle / Chad Buchholz
SNOWSPORTS NZ
A SEASON RECAP
Worsd by Britt Hawes - Images as stated
Kiwi snow sports athletes have
continued their momentum from
their phenomenal 2022 season,
continuing to put New Zealand on
the global snow sports map across
multiple disciplines.
Kiwis had considerable success at
the top levels of the sport, while also
producing incredible results at North
American Cup and European Cup
level, showing just how deep the
talent runs in Kiwi snow sports.
Check out some of the epic results
below!
Freeskiing
18-year-old freeskier Ruby Star
Andrews burst onto the World Cup
Slopestyle scene this year, claiming
the first World Cup podium of her
career. Ruby finished in third place
at the FIS Slopestyle World Cup
held at Mammoth Mountain. She
also achieved a career best result
at the FIS Park and Pipe World
Championships, finishing in 6th
place in the Freeski Slopestyle.
Luca Harrington had a breakthrough
season, claiming career best World
Cup and World Championships
results. Luca finished in fourth place
at the heavily stacked FIS Freeski
Slopestyle World Cup in Silvaplana
and in fifth place in Big Air at the FIS
Park & Pipe World Championships
held in Georgia.
Luca's older brother Ben Harrington
also achieved a career best World
Champs finish, with a fifth place
in the Freeski Halfpipe as well as
finishing in fifth place at the invite
only Dew Tour the week prior.
In the Freeski Development space,
Fin Melville Ives (16) and Gustav
Legnavsky (17) both had career
best Halfpipe World Cup finishes,
with two sixth place finishes for
Fin and a seventh place finish for
Gustav.
14-year-old Luke Harrold had
a fantastic season at the North
American Cup and European Cup
level, claiming the win at both the
Freeski Halfpipe European Cup
Premium in LAAX and Aspen Open
Freeski Halfpipe competitions.
Para Alpine Ski Racing
Adam Hall had yet another
successful season on the Para
Alpine World Cup circuit, with his
top result a third-place finish at the
FIS Para Alpine Slalom World Cup
held in St. Moritz.
Adam also secured podium finishes
at the Slalom European Cup Finals
in Fageralm Forstau (2nd place)
and the Slalom European Cup in
Wildschoenau (3rd place).
The Para Alpine Development
team had a successful season, with
podiums achieved across Slalom,
Giant Slalom and Super G at
Nationals and FIS level races.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//43

Snowboarding
Zoi Sadowski-Synnott continued her utter dominance
of women's snowboarding, once again finishing on the
podium at every event she dropped into this season.
Zoi won the LAAX Snowboard Slopestyle Open for the first
time in her decorated career, a dream of hers since she
first started competing.
The following week Zoi successfully defended her Aspen X
Games slopestyle gold medal, marking her fourth X Games
slopestyle gold medal and her eighth X Games medal, a
phenomenal achievement.
After taking the win at both scored events (Revelstoke
and Alaska) of the 2023 Natural Selection Tour, Zoi was
crowned the overall 2023 Natural Selection Tour Champion,
as well as the winner of each individual stop.
Zoi also claimed the snowboard slopestyle silver medal at
the FIS Park & Pipe World Championships, silver at the FIS
Snowboard Big Air World Cup in Kreischberg and silver in
Big Air at the Aspen X Games.
The future of New Zealand snowboarding continues to look
exceptionally bright, with junior athletes Cam Melville Ives,
Txema Mazet-Brown, Lucia Georgalli and Ava Beer all
securing podium finishes across European Cup events and
World Rookie Tour finals in Slopestyle, Big Air and Halfpipe.
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Zoi in action in Alaska - Image by Natural Selection Tour/Chad Chomlack
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//45

Alpine Ski Racing
Alice Robinson proved she is back on form with a string of top 10 finishes
at World Cup and World Championship events. Her top finish position was
seventh, which she achieved twice in Giant Slalom and once in Super G.
Kiwi speedskier Tawny Wagstaff, obliterated New Zealand's speed
skiing world record, clocking a phenomenal 248.610kph at the World
Championships held in France in March.
Tawny in fact broke the NZ record twice over four days, initially breaking
the twenty-year-old NZ record on the 20th of March with a speed of
233kph, then subsequently topping his own record with a speed of
248.610kph on the 22nd of March. Tawny is now the 11th fastest person in
the world of all time.
Finn Bilous doing what he does best
Freeride
Finn Bilous had an epic debut season on the Freeride World Tour, securing
both a fourth and fifth finish at the Kicking Horse and Ordino Arcalís stops
respectively. Despite all the Kiwis on Tour giving it everything they had, Finn
was the only athlete to make it through the cut to the final two stops on the
Tour this year.
A huge congratulations to Blake Marshall and Ben Richards, who due to
their fantastic results on the Freeride World Qualifier, have secured their
spots on the 2024 Freeride World Tour.
With Winter Games NZ delivering an extensive Park & Pipe, Alpine and
Freeride programme during the 2023 New Zealand winter we look forward to
watching the Kiwis in action on home snow!
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www.black-crows.nz

EXPERIENCING A GALE
AN AUDIO-VISUAL OVERLOAD
In the whirlwind of audio-visual overload, YouTube, Vimeo,
Netflix, Neon, Facebook, TikTok, Instagram – the list is never
ending. We are slammed with extreme video gigabytes of
incredible dopamine charging footage. But in contrast to this
overload of visual blitz, Gale films stopped and looked at the
real beauty behind snow sports, split-boarding in particular
and added music (sometimes live), poetry and stunning
artistic visuals. Is this a new era in our snowed based visual
experience?
A blank canvas with plenty of space for interpretation
Image of Levi - Image by S Rinkin

Images by P Butcher
Gale on track - Image by P Butcher
"The challenge was clearly to use the climbed
altitude as efficiently as possible and to be
videographer and rider on each descent."
Gale – the Project:
Gale is an audiovisual split board sensory experience
and leads through forests, faces in the Aletsch area and
follows a rope team up the Uri Traverse. Levi Lugged
and Gregor Betschon show the different sides of touring
using dynamic, artistic images and together with sound
artist Andreas Achermann paint a unique mountain
world. The British Joshua Truscott combines image and
sound with his lyrical texts so that the emotions and the
feeling of the mountains reach the audience. Immerse
yourself in this special atmosphere and let yourself drift.
Originally the plan was to document the UrnerTraverse,
a 4 day high tour through the Urner Alps and to present
it as a short film. This is a classic spring tour. With
meters of snow in Valais in January and more to come
we started trying out experimental filming. From then on
we worked as a team and with each snowfall produced
more footage. By the middle of the season it was
obvious we would make a short film about splitboarding
and put the traverse in it. With this we had the optimal
basis to show different facets of spitboarding in one film.
Gale's visual language is one as close to action as
possible. The follow shots are the main element and
the POV shots are complementary. We have been on
the road together and have thus filmed each other. The
challenge was clearly to use the climbed altitude as
efficiently as possible and to be videographer and rider
on each descent. The film is not a high-end produced
film but one with which you can identify.
Music:
The inspirations and ideas around the music and lyrics
came from the conversations during the filming. We
were looking for ways to retell our experiences in a
subtle form of film. We understand music in a film as
a hub for emotions. It is the carrier and transmitter
of feelings and allows us to perceive images more
intensely and subjectively. We wanted to share these
elements with the audience while watching “Gale” and
so it was clear that the live performance was the key to
a special experience.
With Andreas we found the musician who had excellent
musical skills, enough technical knowledge and
motivation for such a project. Since Andreas does the
soundtrack with his Synthesizer, the realization was also
realistic. In a long process over a year with re-edits, new
tracks, further cuts and a mastering, Gale has been able
to develop as a piece. After the first rough cut was done
and we found the music with Andreas, the film wasn’t
complete. It lacked a unifying element that made the film
accessible to less snow enthusiasts.
Follow me...Image by P Butcher
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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//51

Gregor - Image by S Ricklin
"We showed Josh the rough cut, to which he freely wrote and recorded poetry."
Poetry:
A classical narrator would have been out of the question for
us. We wanted the off voice to comment the film from his own
perspective instead of being given a text by us.
The poet should - if possible - never have stood on a snowboard
before and therefore create texts that can paint a mountain
world even for laymen. Andreas has worked with Joshua several
times before and thought he would be a perfect fit, as he is from
England and has never snowboarded before.
We showed Josh the rough cut, to which he freely wrote and
recorded poetry. That means we gave him absolute artistic
freedom and he didn't revise the texts anymore. So the narrative
perspective is the same as that of the audience. Through the
poems, images are stimulated in the viewers that are not even
visible on the screen. This makes "Gale" a real experience
Since 2021 Gale and Andreas Achermann performed fifteen
times as a Ciné Concert from Anncey to Andermatt, Munich to
Vienna. For a Ciné-Concert you need musicians who like to
take risks. Because in a classical concert, mistakes are not as
obvious as in a film music performance. Synchronizing image
and sound is demanding and always holds new challenges. The
musician is always on the side of the screen and the audience
can watch him making music during the whole film. Andreas
creates a discreet stage set with his instrument and it is an
incredible artistic achievement as he reshapes the sounds with
every performance.
The online version includes the music, but you can imagine the
impact with the live music, I guess like the rest of the product
that’s all we can do at present is imagine.
Splitboarding - Image by P Bucher
Riders: Levi Luggen, Gregor Betschon, Matthias
Schwestermann
Sponsors: K2 Snowboarding, doodah, Exped, Hä? Wear, Pow
Gloves
Filmmakers: Gregor Betschon, Levi Luggen,
Music: Andreas Achermann
Poems: Joshua Truscott,
Photo: Phil Bucher, Simon Ricklin
Colors: Oli Schmocker,
Special Thanks: Vera Rijks, David Bertschinger Karg, Kuno
Egli, Ahriel Povich, Thomas Landolt, Markus Stoffel
More Infos: www.galefilm.com
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THE POWER OF
HUKA FALLS
By Martin Grafetsberger
As a photographer, I get to live vicariously through the adventures of others.
Don’t get me wrong, over the years I’ve hung off the end of a top rope and
stood chest deep in an ice cold river, all in pursuit of that perfect shot. But when
it comes to kayaking, I’m well out of my depth, preferring to spend much of my
time as a mountain guide in and around Tongariro National Park.
Being a Taupo local, I don’t visit Huka Falls that much, but when a fellow guide
messaged me one morning to say that he and a few mates were going to run
the falls, there was no question, I had to be there. While my wife Debs (who’s
the better looking half of our photography business, Blurry Media) set herself up
on the bridge to capture the action in the gorge, I positioned myself at the lower
lookout to catch them going over the drop.
Now I have to admit that from the sidelines, these guys made it look easy, each
of them doing three back-to-back runs in quick succession which was great
for the crowds in the ‘grandstands’ and great for us taking photos. But don’t
be fooled, Huka can be a challenging run that changes radically at different
flows. On this particular day, the flow was at around 82 cumecs, well within the
supposed 50 to 120 cumecs ‘safe’ range. Just 24 hours prior to this however,
the river had been at 278 cumecs. Think about it, that’s around 280,000
litres per second, enough to fill a 50 metre Olympic pool every 9 seconds, all
pumping through a gorge that’s just a few metres wide.

Making The Weir look easy, enter centre and drive left.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//55

56//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

“It’s nothing to some,
everything to others.
It’s a deadly tourist
attraction and yet, an
easy ego boost. It can be
the pinnacle of kayaking
for some and an overhyped
playground for others.
It can be dangerous and
fun at the same time. It
can create its own aura,
myths and legends and
perhaps it shouldn't.
When you're in there,
you're surrounded by
tourists and cheering
friends yet completely
alone. You realise how
small you are within
the power of nature, and
yet, when you clear the
last drop, you feel like
you've just tamed the
beast, desperate to risk
it all again.”
Taranaki based kayaker, Jonny Kennedy
So what’s it like to run Huka at high flow? One person who knows
all too well is Greg Oke who, along with Nick Kerkham, made the
first descent back in 1981. I managed to catch up with Greg who
admits that even now, retelling the story some forty years later still
brings back the shakes. Such is the power of Huka Falls.
How did that first descent come about? Turns out that in
December of that year the guys had come up from Palmy to
spend a weekend playing at Fulljames/Nga Awa Purua Rapids.
Unfortunately their plans had been scuppered by an issue at the
control gates which were left wide open and couldn’t be shut for
some reason. As a result, flow was in the high 200s and Nga Awa
Purua was completely blown out.
Committed to the drop
Heading home from the weekend and with Nick feeling “antsy and
bored” they stopped in to have a look at Huka, something they’d
done countless times before without ever seriously considering
doing the run. Only this time was different as Nick looked at Greg
and said, “Should we do it?”

The perfect line
At that point it wasn’t about ego or box ticking. As Greg puts it,
it was simply “the right time, the right day and everything felt
right.” Once they committed, there was no room for thoughts
about a negative outcome. Trusting their skills (they were
both highly ranked NZ slalom paddlers at the time), and their
understanding of hydraulics, they picked what they thought
would be the best line and went for it.
In the end, they did two separate runs, choosing to be at the
bottom for each other. Greg’s lasting memory was the force of
the water blasting him in the face at the top of the drop before
he disappeared into the inky darkness of the boil. Sadly, Nick
passed away in a car accident quite a few years back so he’s
not around to share his experience first-hand.
But the story doesn’t end there. If it had been up to them,
the guys would have simply gotten into their car and quietly
disappeared with nothing more than a sense of personal
achievement, and an epic story to share with their mates. As
it turned out, the President of the NZ Canoeing Association at
the time happened to be at the falls taking photos, and when
he realised what they were about to do, he raced down to the
lower lookout to capture them going over the drop.
Unsurprisingly, these photos found their way to the press and
the guys ended up being featured in the Herald and on TV.
This gave them some notoriety as well as a bit of unwelcome
attention from the NZ Water Safety Council who weren’t happy
that “a couple of randoms” had done this irresponsible act. In
the end, the furore died down and Greg and Nick’s place in
New Zealand kayaking history was cemented.
Since that first descent, Huka Falls has been run many times
and in numerous ways from tandem to hand paddling and even
on a bodyboard. Obviously a lot has changed in the last four
decades in terms of gear and kayaks in particular, which are
now a far cry from the Olymp 6 fibreglass slalom kayaks the
guys used back then. To some extent, this has made runs like
Huka Falls a lot more accessible to more kayakers who want to
tick it off their bucket list. In this regard, Greg does have a few
words of caution.
“People need to respect any piece of water at any time. Be
honest about whether your skillset meets what you’re about
to do and never paddle a rapid just because your friends are
doing it. Trust your intuition on the day.”
And he’s talking from experience. Still on a high after running
Huka Falls, and feeling like he could conquer anything, Greg
started to chase after more first descents. Around 8 weeks after
Huka, he had a bad feeling about a particular run but, against
his better judgement, did it anyway because other guys were
doing it. In his words he “made a mess of it” (I got the sense
that it was probably a lot worse than he was letting on) and got
a good kick in the ego which he reckons he probably needed.
But he’s still here, still passionate about the sport and still
paddling at the very respectable age of 61. He only paddled
Huka Falls the one time and has never seriously considered
doing it again, but you only have to do it once to be the first.
58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

Tawny claims his New Zealand speed record
TAWNY WAGSTAFF
OBLITERATES NZ RECORD
New Zealand Speed Skier Tawny Wagstaff
(Methven, 44) has broken the twenty-yearold
NZ Speed Skiing record, clocking an
incredible 248.610kph at the Speed Skiing
World Championships held in Vars on the
22nd of March. Wagstaff in fact broke the NZ
record twice over the last four days, initially
breaking the twenty-year-old NZ record on
the 20th of March with a speed of 233kph,
then subsequently topping his own record
with a speed of 248.610kph on the 22nd of
March. Wagstaff is now the eleventh fastest
person in the world of all time.
Wagstaff said, “This speed is still sinking
in. Breaking the NZ record was a goal, but
I still want to get as fast as 250kph and
above. I love the intensity and the purity
of this sport, I am constantly refining my
equipment and working tirelessly to perfect
the tuck position. Technically speaking,
everyone can ski in a straight line, which is
why I love this sport.”
Speed Skiing is the fastest unpowered
sport on earth where the athletes remain
in contact with the ground. Wagstaff
has been competing in this high-speed
discipline since 2017. Prior to that he was
a youth Alpine Ski Racer competing in the
technical events but has now found a need
for speed.
The Vars track where Wagstaff broke the
NZ record starts at 2700m altitude, with
a vertical drop of 400m over just 800m of
track. There is a 400m long area at the
bottom for reducing speed and stopping
once they have crossed the finish line.
Speed Skiing is not a sport for the faint
hearted. Wagstaff explained that speed
skiing is not just physical, it has a huge
mental element where the higher you start,
the faster you go, requiring absolute poise
under pressure.
“To ski really fast and do it well is very
hard, and to ski really fast you have to
start high which brings its own mental
challenge. 30 seconds is all it takes to
complete a run. Dropping from the top of
the track in Vars is another world, no one
wants to fall at these high speeds. If you
are lucky enough to walk away from a
fall, at these speeds you will still destroy
your skis and outer shell of your helmet,
damage your suit and you will have burns
and bruising from the snow. On top of that
you then have your mind to deal with.”
Interview withTawny Wagstaff
Age: 44
From: Methven, New Zealand
Home mountain? Mt Hutt
Married? No
Kids? No kids, there is no way I could
afford to do this sport if I had kids.
What you do when you are not speed
skiing? I am a stone mason/bricklayer,
ski racing coach at Mt Hutt (again), and
mountain climber and study part-time both
sports coaching and astronomy.
Firstly, how did you get into speed
skiing? Had a small hiatus from ski
working life as a heli guide and coach and
decided to focus on studying and climbing,
when I came back to skiing I just did it for
my own pleasure, I have always enjoyed
and felt comfortable with going fast on
skis but during this year I just did this
more and more. Eventually, looking into a
potential ski holiday overseas, combining
it with some sort of speed competition, not
knowing at the time about the World Cup
circuit, but a quick search online was all
it took. I remember back to when I was
about 15 seeing an article in the skier
magazine about a world record around the
low 240 kph, might have been about Jeff
Hamilton and I was wondering how that
was possible and how insane that must be,
then forgot all about it after that.
How have you been involved and how
has the sport developed over that time?
I started speed skiing in 2017/18, and not
too much has changed since this time,
Covid was the biggest setback cancelling
many of the competitions, in particular the
main high speed events at Vars for both
2020 and 2021.
After the 2018 season, I had a knee injury
in NZ and missed the 2019 speed ski
season. I came to Europe to race in 2020
halfway through the season as I didn't really
have enough money saved to go earlier
and I was here 2 weeks getting ready to
race for the main event then covid shut us
down so I back home. I returned back for
2021 during covid, no guarantee that the 3
small competitions that were left in Sweden
would still go ahead, and not knowing if
I could even get into Europe or on the
plane in Auckland, let alone the quarantine
situation that I was going to have to go
through on returning to NZ. Uncertain times
but I was not going to miss another season.
60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

"The World record is now
255.500kph set at vars
2023 World championships.
The world record before
this was set by Italian
Ivan Origone in 2016
at vars at a speed of
254.958kph. The NZ
record now that I hold
is 248.610kph during the
World championships at
vars 2023."
Tawny in action in Vars, France

“The sound of the air pushing up against me gets louder and louder,
and towards the bottom will start to feel the compressions wanting
to pull my body down and then usually bounce it back up again so we
have to work hard to maintain the body in the tight position."
My efforts worked out well and finished
with 3 top 5 positions. The speed ski track
in Sweden is only a 180kph track max, we
love the track, but we really don’t consider
this real speed skiing as such.
The Covid situation made a lot more
paperwork, cost a lot more, and regular
tests having crap shoved up our noses
at 6am before a race...not cool, still could
never get used to it. But I was not going to
let the covid stop me from what I have to
do, I’m older so I don’t have a time to wait
and at the time we had no idea how long
they would keep Covid going.
Where did it start? For me the speed ski
started at Mt Hutt, it has the steepest and
widest groomed runs in NZ. It was only a
matter of time I think, before someone was
going to race speed, it was lucky enough
to be me, or unlucky depending on how
you look at it, haha. It’s not a sport that
many people want to do and I have the
experience to understand why. Even just
6 years ago it was a bit different skiing in
NZ, there was not so many back then so it
was safer to ski fast. In NZ it is harder and
harder to ski fast due to safety concerns. I
have always been very careful when skiing
fast, it's important not to be reckless and
hurt other people.
Tell us about the gear? Our suits are
made to be air tight, the only protection we
have is a back protector. We wear spoilers
behind our boots which reduce drag. These
are hand made out of hard foam and have
to adhere to FIS regulations, length, weight
and construction. Our helmets are wide so
we can cover our shoulders also adhering
to FIS rules of weight and size. Skis are
240cm maximum length with a side cut
of 96 meters, and slightly wider then an
alpine racing ski, heavy to help hold us to
the ground. Shortened poles to 1 meter
in length with extreme bends to fit tightly
around the body.
How do you go about training for this
discipline? We need to do the runs
around the 180 and above to train for the
high speed, it’s a very hard sport to train
for as we don’t ski the really high speeds
very often. The best we can do around
this is to prepare our bodies at the gym,
mental training also plays a big part.
General skiing is helpful.
Talk us through a normal successful
run? It starts a few hours before the run
with making sure the gear is all put on
correctly, it takes about 40 minutes to gear
up, and usually an hour or two to prepare
the skis with various waxes the night
before. Then we have to carry the skis and
helmet usually across a sketchy traverse
to get to the lower starts wearing non slip
clothing over top of our race suit, a helper
will then take our access skis and clothes
down to the bottom of the track. Prior to
starting the run we take off the nonslip
clothing above a net, usually its steep and
the area sometimes covered in chopped
up powder making it more awkward.
OK so once its our turn we traverse onto
the track, we ready ourselves to jump
the 240cm long skis around. We have 1
minute to start our run. The starter will give
us the OK and then for me I run my eyes
down the line then I go, jumping into the
air and when my skis land I fold up into
my position like a bird going into a dive.
When I’m in position I take another look
forward to check that I’m on line then its
head down all the way, really only seeing
about 10metres ahead at the most. I keep
my eyes mostly on the groomer lines
underneath me which start to become
more blurry as the speed increases. The
dye lines on the sides help give me an idea
also of where I am mainly from peripheral
vision, or if you notice they are under you
then its time to do something steering
wise. There's 1 to 2 key points that I focus
on down the run, I wont go into detail
here but its what I focus on for safety and
speed. The sound of the air pushing up
against me gets louder and louder, and
towards the bottom will start to feel the
compressions wanting to pull my body
down and then usually bounce it back up
again so we have to work hard to maintain
the body in the tight position.
We don’t get long, 15 seconds and the run
is all over, we go through the 100m timing
trap in just over a second and once we
see the red line pass underneath its time
to stand up but not too quickly as suddenly
standing up at 240 will blow you off your
feet. The runout is a decent length but
feels short at these speeds.
Once we have stabilised ourselves in a
standing position we make ourselves as
large as possible to catch as much air but
only for a for seconds, by this stage our
speed has dropped to about 180 and we
then make our first turn being very careful,
and using as mush of the width of the
runout as possible but also allowing some
room for redundancy if something were to
go wrong. By the time we finish the first
turn the speed drops to just above a 100,
then we make the 2nd turn which will finish
us up right towards the end of the runout.
It all has to be well timed and care taken.
The slowing down process is a big deal.
Going from those speeds and slowing up
safely with only a set of skis as breaks
takes a bit of getting use to. But I would
rather have the skis to slow me down then
being on my ass.
The runs that we consider stable and nice
usually are the slower ones, the ones
where we are more uncontrolled usually
turn out to be faster...Like with many
sports, we have to put ourselves out of the
comfort zone if we want to do well.
What speeds do you get up to? During the
Would cup circuit speeds are limited to about
230kph (vars), although most of the time the
tracks at other locations are below 200kph.
So anywhere between 160-230kph...
The World record is now 255.500kph set
at vars 2023 World championships. The
world record before this was set by Italian
Ivan Origone set in 2016 at vars at a speed
of 254.958kph. The NZ record now that
I hold is 248.610kph during the World
championships at vars 2023.
The NZ record before this was 232kph held
by Chris Gebbie set at a different location
back in 2005, at the time the current world
record was 250.7kph (maybe don’t put that
in but you can see the difference of where
the kiwis once stood amongst the top guys)
The current world record for women was
set in 2016 by Italian Valentina Greggio at
247.083kph. There was no world record
from the women this year. The best speed
62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

from the ladies this year was 244kph by
Swedish Britta Buckland which was enough
to give her the Swedish ladies speed record
and Valentina finished with a speed of
244kph. It's interesting that the women were
a little off the WR this year compared to the
men, I think this may have been because
of the snow condition. The best conditions
is well transformed snow, that is old snow,
and this year the conditions were not quite
there, There is a lot more competition
amongst the men also so this constant
pushing between the athletes has also
increased the speed difference between the
men and the ladies.
What happens when it goes wrong?
If you are lucky not to break anything in
your body you will still have friction burns
and bruising...Most people will hurt their
shoulders or knees. Your skis usually
explode when they hit the snow from end
to end, your suit can get ripped, the outer
shell of the helmet detaches from the inner
protective helmet, usually also cracks and
needs work to fix. Also poles tend to break
as well, sometimes damage to the fairings
we wear underneath the suit behind our
boots. Then you will have your mind to
deal with. Some people will take weeks,
months to recover, some people never do.
Then there is the odd animal that will get
back up and be on his feet ready to go the
next day
Have you had any major accidents?
I have not crashed in speed skiing yet.
I know its coming for me at some point.
The closer you want to get to the leader
the tighter the tuck has to be, the tighter
the tuck the less travel the legs will have
meaning less ability to absorb the hollow
and bumps. The way I play it is 2 steps
forward one back. But there will come a
time, but not today.
I have had two previous knee injuries both
from skiing. A knee basically means 1.5 to
2 years off from being back in form.
How does New Zealand rank in the
world? In the past not so great, I don’t
mean to offend anyone that has speed
skied from NZ before me (maybe don’t
put that down) . When I started, due to my
racing background in alpine and my skill
with my hands I was able to build up some
really nice gear as aerodynamics is so
important. We can easily look at a speed
skier and tell from what they are wearing
if they are fast or not. I still have a lot of
work to do to catch the very top guys but
from my entry into the speed ski game I
have produced some good results for NZ.
Some notable results below
• 2018, 4th and 2 x 5th place in Canada
World Cup
• 2021, 4th and 2 x 5th place in Sweden
World Cup
• 2022, 4th place at Sweden World Cup
• 2023, 6th at the World
Championships, and 4th in the World
Cup, both at vars
• 2023, broke the NZ record 4 times in
a row, something that will never ever
happen again in the future of speed
skiing.
NZ is now ranked 6th fastest country in the
world ever. In order...France, Italy, Austria,
Switzerland, Finland then NZ.
I am the 11th fastest person in the history
of speed skiing ever and the fastest
person outside of Europe just beating the
Unites states and Sweden to name a few.
Previous to this season I was the 158th
fastest at a speed of 219.646kph
Is the world racing circuit a close-knit
group or are there major rivalries?
Mostly tight knit, we all know the risks so
we are always happy for each when we
have good clean runs and stoked when
someone pulls off a near crash. There
is usually a crash at each event but not
always, it can happen anytime so I think it
keeps us humble and respectful. There is
a bit of rivalry between some of the French
team for various reasons, its a good thing
my French kind of sucks as it keeps me
out of it as I spend a lot time training with
the rouge French skier Simon Billy, the
current record holder. There's the usual
Italian rivalry, not the most out going types
along with the Austrians, you have to earn
there respect.
Will speed skiing ever be an Olympic
event?Yes I believe it will be its just a
matter of when. At the moment there
is a chance you may see it in the 2026
Olympics, watch this space.
Someone who knows you well – how
would they describe you? Driven, I don’t
tend to ask to much more haha. Maybe a
bit stubborn, love sleeping.
If you knew then what you know now
what would you tell your younger self?
To start speed skiing in my 20's and
believe in yourself more than ever and
make the most of your time with a type of
urgency, make it happen, dream bigger.
Aim for the stars and you may just land on
the moon.
Best place in the world to speed ski.
Why? Vars, It’s the only current Speed
ski track that is over 200kph, it’s the track
I call home. Simon’s dad (Phillipe Billy)
made this track, and has kept it going for
many years. He made a world record here
in 1993, and now the World record is back
home, like father like son.
What does the future hold? I will
continue speed skiing for at least another
3-5 years, chasing the now current world
record of 255.500 kph. In the process I will
break the NZ record a few more times. As
for the World Cup circuit goes, I will get
onto that podium and perhaps fly the NZ
flag at the opening ceremony of the 2026
Olympics. Also making it into space one
day, low earth orbit will be fine, but the
moon will be better.
A question we get a lot about extreme
sports...As the sport evolves and the
speed gets faster and faster and the
risks become greater will there comes a
point where riders say that enough, the
risks are too high or will it naturally find
its own level? What we have with speed
skiing is we need higher and longer tracks
to go faster. At this stage there really is no
limit to speed skiing, we will risk everything
to go faster.
As with all sports I am sure sponsors
play a major part are there any you
would like to thank. I have no sponsors,
but I would like to give many thanks to the
Billy's for if it was not for this family, I would
not be skiing at 248kph.
“NZ is now ranked 6th fastest country in the world ever. I am the
11th fastest person in the history of speed skiing ever and the
fastest person outside of Europe just beating the Unites States
and Sweden to name a few. Previous to this season I was the 158th
fastest at a speed of 219.646kph"
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//63

Jess Blewitt races at Red Bull Fox Hunt 2023 in Wanaka, New Zealand on February 11, 2023 // Henry Jaine / Red Bull Content Pool
FOXHUNT
WANAKA, NZ
Downhill mountain bike event Red Bull
Foxhunt took place for the first time in
New Zealand at Cardrona, Wanaka on
Saturday, 11 February this year with 100
riders coming together for the mass-start
enduro race.
The internationally renowned race saw
Red Bull athletes and world-leading
mountain bikers Brook 'The Bulldog'
Macdonald, Jess Blewitt and Remy Morton
challenge 100 riders from across Aotearoa
to a downhill race like no other where they
came in as 'the foxes' to chase their ‘prey’
to the finish line.
The race kicked off at 4.30 pm on a 9.5km
course, with the riders lined up at the top of
Cardrona for the mass start while the foxes
were set several metres back to chase the
riders in a downhill cross-country MTB race.
In an impressive 13 minutes and 8
seconds, Sean McCarroll was first to the
finish line, taking out first place and was
followed by Gareth Burgees and Sam
Blenkinsop – each beating foxes Brook
Macdonald and Remy Morton.
While the foxes were overtaken, Brook
Macdonald was buzzing after the race:
‘’Red Bull Foxhunt was epic. It was
awesome to go head-to-head against
some of New Zealand’s best and the
atmosphere was next-level. Next year I’ll
be gunning to take first place.’’
64//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

equip
yourself!
With a strong line-up of female riders, Louise
Ferguson led the pack coming in at 14
minutes and 30 seconds followed by Lynette
Deacon and Emma Olofsson.
Red Bull Foxhunt fox and 20-year-old New
Zealand Downhill Champion Jess Blewitt
was the second woman to cross the finish
line and was thrilled to get amongst.
‘’That was pretty wild. There are some
talented riders in there, and that course was
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intense – Louise did an impressive job with
that finish time. The energy throughout the
whole day and race was insane!’’ Jess said.
The 100 riders that took part in Red Bull
Foxhunt showcased the talent and energy
in New Zealand’s mountain bike scene and
was a day of carnage, excitement and fun.
To celebrate the race, an open-door
afterparty took place at Yonder, Queenstown
with performances by PDiggs and Sambora.
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fabric and insulation, perfect for any adventure.
WWW.OUTFITTERSSTORE.NZ
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//67

outdoor research Carbide Jacket $499.99
Winner of SKI Magazine’s Gear of the
Year Award, this ride and ski jacket was
built to adapt anywhere. This Pertex®
waterproof shell is ideal for backcountry.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
rab Valiance Waterproof Down Jacket $699.95
However wild the weather gets the Valiance Jacket
keeps you warm and dry. Updated with 100%
recycled down, it’s engineered for everyday use
throughout the coldest months. .
WWW.OUTFITTERSSTORE.NZ
kathmandu Heli R Down Jacket $219.98
Your best mate outdoors, we've recreated
the Heli R Down Jacket to lessen its impact
on the environment. With recycled materials
throughout, this outer layer delivers all the
warm fuzzies, at a fraction of the waste.
WWW.KATHMANDU.CO.NZ
Co-Z High Pile Pullover $199.98
A heritage fleece with a
uniquely fresh design, the
Co-Z High Pile Pullover fuses a
look back with a peek into the
future. It offers cosy warmth for
those colder outside moments
– and the main fabric is made
with recycled materials.
WWW.KATHMANDU.CO.NZ
outdoor research snowcrew
pants $349.99
Fully seam-taped waterproof,
stretchy snow and ski pants
built with environmentallyfriendly
VerticalX ECO
insulation.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238
outdoor research Archangel Bibs
$1,199.99
3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro and
full mobility with 3-layer GORE-
TEX® Pro Stretch panels where
you need them - on the knees,
lower back and crotch gusset.
Features include top to bottom
zips, adjustable venting and cuff
size adjustments to fit climbing or
ski touring boots.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
outdoor research Carbide Bibs $499.99
Winner of SKI Magazine’s Gear
of the Year Award. Balancing
protection and weight, this
Pertex® waterproof shell is ideal
for backcountry versatility; easy
layering for cold backcountry
tours and warm spring skiing.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ

Crocs Classic Clog $89.99
It’s the iconic clog that started a comfort
revolution around the world! Crocs
Classic Clogs offer lightweight Iconic
Crocs Comfort, a color for every personality,
and an ongoing invitation to be
comfortable in your own shoes.
WWW.CROCS.CO.NZ
Crocs Classic All-Terrain Clog $109.99
Comfort For The Adventures near
and far. The Classic All-Terrain Clog
is ready for it all, even in the harshest
environments. With a more rugged
outsole and an adjustable turbo strap,
the ground beneath your feet has never
felt more surmountable.
WWW.CROCS.CO.NZ
GLERUPS The Boot Honey Rubber $199.00
Made from 100% high-quality wool that provides
exceptional comfort & warmth. glerups boots are
soft and cosy, allowing you to rejuvenate your
tired feet after a long day.
glerups boots provide comfort, durability, grip,
and breathability, making them an excellent
choice for your outdoor adventures.
Go with natural this season, go with glerups.
WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ
SALEWA PEDROC POWERTEX $399.90
Designed as a lightweight, versatile,
yet protective technical shoe with an
eco-friendly Powertex® membrane
for waterproof protection, and good
breathability. The strong ripstop mesh
upper and TPU rand offer high abrasion
resistance. The EVA midsole delivers
optimal rebound, and the Pomoca
Speed Hiker Pro outsole works well on
mud, grass and rock.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 345 g (W)
260 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA PEDROC PRO MID POWERTEX $449.90
Our SALEWA® 3F system and Ankle
Protector system provide additional
support and stability, while an abrasionresistant
double ripstop upper with
TPU rand provide enhanced protection.
Weather protection and breathability are
provided by our sustainable Powertex®
PFC-free waterproof membrane. The
EVA midsole delivers optimal rebound,
and the Pomoca Speed Hiker Pro
outsole works well on mud, grass and
rock.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 390 g
(pictured) (W) 290 g
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA ORTLES ASCENT MID GORE-TEX® $799.90
Featuring a suede leather upper,
SALEWA® 3F system with steel
cables and reinforced TPU rand
make it exceptionally robust and
durable. The waterproof GORE-TEX®
Comfort membrane has an integrated
insulation layer. There’s a stiff carbonloaded
nylon fibreglass insole and
dual density expanded polyurethane
midsole. The semi-auto crampon
compatible Vibram® Alpine Guide
sole unit is engineered for traction,
durability and reliability on difficult
terrain.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 850 g
(W) 660 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 MID GORE-TEX® $599.90
Introducing the next generation of our
bestselling, robust and reliable alpine trekking
boot. This hard-wearing suede leather classic
with a 360° full protective rubber rand is
even lighter and more flexible. Equipped
with a waterproof, breathable GORE-TEX®
Performance Comfort membrane, a dual
density expanded PU midsole, and the
self-cleaning Vibram® WTC 2 outsole is
engineered for improved grip and traction in a
wide range of conditions.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 600 g (pictured)
(W) 470 g
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
MOUNTAIN ALP MATE MID WATERPROOF $359.90
Built for comfort, this boot features our
SALEWA® 3F system for excellent flexibility,
heel support and protection. The high-quality
suede upper backed with our PFC free
waterproof and breathable membrane keeps
bad weather out. The rubber toe cap and heel
stabilizer provide a further level of protection
and stability, while the POMOCA® outsole
ensures stability, grip and traction.
Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 530 g (W) 466 g
(pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
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Merino made
for more time
on the mountain
www.smartwool.co.nz

Chickfly Bamboo Leggings High Rise
or Low Rise (USD $119.00)
Chickfly leggings are made
with soft, strong, stretchy
and sustainable bamboo
fabric, coloured with organic
dyes. Our patented fly is held
together by tension, creating
a seamless, flattering, soft,
and easy-to-use feature in the
most comfortable and stylish
black legging that every
woman needs not only for
style but for convenience and
functionality.
WWW.CHICKFLY.COM
bear cottage Possum Fur Merino Wool
Knitwear Gloves $29.00
A unique and luxurious blend
of NZ possum fur and pure NZ
merino lambswool. 35% Possum
Fur, 55% Merino Lambswool,
10% Mulberry Silk.
WWW.BEARCOTTAGE.CO.NZ
outdoor research Arete II GORE-TEX
Gloves $189.99
Modular insulated GORE-TEX® protection with
warm and wicking removable merino wool liners.
Updated with a leather palm, and complete with
a waterproof insert.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
smartwool Kids Winter Sport
Full Cushion Ski Day $40.00
Merino socks featuring
fill cushion and a flat knit
toe seam for additional
comfort. Keeping your
little ones warm all day.
WWW.SMARTWOOL.CO.NZ
bear cottage Possum Merino Wool
Trekking Socks $38.00
50% Merino Wool, 40% Possum
Fur, 10% Nylon/Lycra Short calf
length | Energy bands. Terry loop
pile foot to catch and retain the
body heat escaping from your
body.Specially designed heel and
toe, eliminating any bulky fabric
around the toe and heel areas.
WWW.BEARCOTTAGE.CO.NZ
smartwool Women’s SKI Full
Cushion $60.00
Natural comfort and
performance of Merino
wool. Prioritising
breathability, durability
and fit.
WWW.SMARTWOOL.CO.NZ
smartwool Women’s
Snowboard Targeted Cushion
$55.00
Featuring our most
advanced Indestructawool
technology for enhanced
durability and 4 Degree
elite fit system for an
unmatched performance fit.
WWW.SMARTWOOL.CO.NZ
smartwool Kids Ski Light
Cushion $40.00
Keep your little ones warm
and cosy all day on the
slops. With the warmth
of Merino wool, even the
smallest skiers can go far
and feel good.
WWW.SMARTWOOL.CO.NZ
smartwool Mens Ski Zero
Cushion $55.00
No cushion. All performance.
Our thinnest Merino socks.
Offering you the all day
comfort you need to stay out
longer.
WWW.SMARTWOOL.CO.NZ
smartwool Mens Ski Targeted
Cushion $55.00
Targeted cushioning and
mesh zones placed for
maximum comfort and
breathability in any boot.
Natural performance of
Merino wool.
WWW.SMARTWOOL.CO.NZ
smartwool Mens Ski Full
Cushion $60.00
For maximum cushioning
this pair of Merino wool
socks help keep things
warm, but breathable.
WWW.SMARTWOOL.CO.NZ
smartwool Women’s Ski Zero
Cushion Print $55.00
The perfect mix of design
and performance. Featuring
our most advanced
Indestructawool technology
for enhanced durability.
WWW.SMARTWOOL.CO.NZ
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Unmatched
quality & design
100% pure, natural wool
indoor and outdoor slippers
Ultimate comfort since 1993
glerups.co.nz
Find us online and at a stockist near you

kathmandu Valorous Pack – 38L
$299.98
Rejuvenate in the outdoors
with a modern hiking pack.
Our versatile 38 litre Valorous
Pack is designed to support
you on multiday rambles and
city escapes. The Crossflow
AirXF harness sits slightly off
your back, so expect comfy
cushioning and cooling air flow.
WWW.KATHMANDU.CO.NZ
kathmandu Hybrid Trolley v5 - 50L
$349.98
Travel can be unpredictable,
so we've updated our Hybrid
Trolley range to make sure
your luggage isn't. This 50-litre
rolled bag v5 is lighter than ever
and converts into a backpack
via a stashable harness. The
telescopic mono-handle is
easy to slide in and out while
the lockable zips keep your
valuables safe.
WWW.KATHMANDU.CO.NZ
Kiwi Camping Boost LED Light with
Power Bank $89.99
Bright LED light with power
bank to illuminate your tent
and charge devices on the
go. Features 11 light modes
including SOS signal, built-in
magnets and hanging hook.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
kiwi camping Mamaku Pro -5
°C Sleeping Bag t $129.00
Experience ultimate
warmth in cold temps
with the Mamaku Pro
-5°C. Lightweight,
compact design with
silvertherm lining for
enhanced heat retention.
Perfect for outdoor
adventures.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.
CO.NZ
Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove
& Pot Set $149.00
For quick boiling when
you need it! A super
lightweight aluminium
stove with quick boil
technology, piezo ignition
and accessories all
packaged in a handy
mesh carry bag.
WWW.GASMATE.CO.NZ
Gasmate Portable Diesel
Heater $899.00
Never be cold camping
again with Gasmate's
Portable Diesel Heater.
Stay warm on-the-go with
remote control operation,
compact design, and
adjustable temperature
settings for your outdoor
adventures
WWW.GASMATE.CO.NZ
Kiwi Camping Weka 2 Hiker Tent $339.00
Kiwi Camping's most popular hiker
tent with double-sided entry, sturdy
vestibules, and a user-friendly design.
With a fly that handles rain and
snow, the Weka 2 is perfect for hiking
adventures.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Kiwi camping Tuatara Soft Shell Compact Rooftop Tent $1999.00
Discover New Zealand's original BLACKOUT rooftop
tent, weighing only 49.5kgs. Compact and quick to set
up in under 2 minutes. Explore more at Kiwi Camping
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
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escueme PLB1 $589.98
Wherever you are, at sea, on land,
the rescueME PLB1 provides the
reassurance that global emergency
services can be alerted by the press of
a button.
The rescueMe PLB1 can be operated
with a single hand in even the most
challenging situations. A simple springloaded
flap covers the activation button
preventing inadvertent use. rescueME
PLB1 works with the only officially
recognised worldwide dedicated search
and rescue satellite network (operated
by Cospas Sarsat). As this is funded by
governments there are NO CHARGES
to use this service.
Available through all leading sports and
recreation retailers and online.
WWW.RESCUEME.CO.NZ
KEA STASH $60.00 (GO) - $80.00 (XL)
KEA STASH is the Leak free,
smell free, trash compacting bag.
Available in 2 sizes “GO” & “XL”
so you can say goodbye to messy,
bulky trash wherever you are.
WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.CO.NZ
PROVEN
TO SAVE LIVES
PLB1
Personal
Locator
Beacon
The World’s
smallest PLB
30% (typ) smaller 7 year battery life
KEA lumen $100.00
KEA LUMEN is the powerful,
durable & versatile flashlight
to ensure that you’re never
left in the dark.
WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.CO.NZ
local dehy hummus $8.00
Sundried Tomato and Red
Pepper, also available in
Beetroot and Zesty Lemon.
Perfect for lunches on the trail.
Freeze dried. Vegan. Home
compostable packaging.
WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ
JÄGERMEISTER COLD BREW COFFEE
Inspired by the innovative,
everchanging drinks scene,
we instinctively knew how a
drop of Jägermeister and a
backbeat of cold brew coffee
could transform any night. The
enviable result? A brand-new
mix. JÄGERMEISTER COLD
BREW COFFEE. A unique
fusion of JÄGERMEISTER’s 56
botanicals and intense cold brew
coffee.
WWW.LIQUORLAND.CO.NZ
LOCAL DEHY CAJUN JAMBALAYA $17.50
A punchy peppery vegan
twist on a Southern American
classic! Refuel after a day's
adventuring. Vegan, totally
delicious, in home compostable
packaging.
WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ
66 channel GPS
– Fast accurate positioning
EPIRB1
Essential
for safe
boating
The World’s Most
Compact Emergency
Position Indicating
Radio Beacon
30% (typ) smaller 10 year battery life
Shackleton Blended Malt Scotch
Born from Adventure: Shackleton
Blended Malt Scotch is based on
the spirit supplied to the 1907 British
Antarctic Expedition, expertly crafted
using a selection of the finest Highland
Single Malt Scotch Whiskies. Available
at various Liquor Retailers .
WWW.GLENGARRYWINES.CO.NZ
5 year warranty 406-link via
satellite to
Emergency Services
LAB0684
www.rescueme.co.nz

FEED YOUR ADDICTION
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and
development in online stores over the past 5 years.
We are dedicating these pages to our client’s online stores; some
you will be able to buy from, some you will be able drool over. Buy,
compare, research and prepare, these online stores are a great way to
feed your adventure addiction.
Never have a dead phone
again! Because now you can
charge straight from the Sun
with SunSaver. Perfect for
that week-long hike, day at
the beach, or back-up for any
emergency. Check us out at:
www.sunsaver.co.nz
Building versatile and reliable gear so you
can adventure with purpose.
www.keaoutdoors.com
Temerature. Taste. Transport.
Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle.
www.hydroflask.co.nz
The place to go for all the gear you need whether you're skiing,
snowboarding, hiking, biking or just exploring.
www.thealpinecentre.co.nz
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.
www.patagonia.co.nz
Stocking an extensive range
of global outdoor adventure
brands for your next big
adventure. See them for travel,
tramping, trekking, alpine and
lifestyle clothing and gear.
www.outfittersstore.nz
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz
Marine and industrial supply story
www.lusty-blundell.co.nz
Our very own online store where
you will find hard goods to keep you
equipped for any adventure.
www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz

Waterfront accommodation on Nydia Track, Marlborough, NZ
www.onthetracklodge.nz
Meals bursting with flavour, combined with home compostable
packaging, means you really can have it all in the mountains.
Designed by ‘foodies’ for maximum plant-based deliciousness
and wrapped in earth positive, lightweight, packable pouches.
www.localdehy.co.nz
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best
brands across New Zealand & the globe.
www.bivouac.co.nz
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.
www.merrell.co.nz
Kathmandu offers a premium range of outdoor
clothing, footwear, accessories and gear for men,
women and kids.
www.kathmandu.co.nz
This small, friendly family-run company is based in Lake
Tekapo, New Zealand, specializing in guided outdoor
adventures throughout New Zealand's Southern Alps.
www.alpinerecreation.com
www.glerups.co.nz
glerups shoes, slippers
and boots are known for
their exceptional comfort
and unique design.
Over the years we have
perfected the wool mix
by blending Gotland
wool with quality wool
from New Zealand
farmers.
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Your adventure travel specialists, with over 20 years
experience! They live what they sell.
www.madabouttravel.co.nz
Supplying tents and
camping gear to Kiwis
for over 30 years, Kiwi
Camping are proud to
be recognised as one of
the most trusted outdoor
brands in New Zealand.
www.kiwicamping.co.nz
NZ world class climbing centre.
Your climbing experience is at
the heart of what they do. They
provide trained and competent
professionals that are psyched
on climbing and passionate
about supporting others.
www.northenrocks.co.nz
Adventure comes in layers, and Smartwool have your
every adventure covered with their range of Merino wool
clothing, designed to keep you comfortable and confident
when heading outdoors.
www.smartwool.nz

u t a h
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DISCOVERING UTAH
By Phil Clark - Mad about Travel
Mention Utah and images of mountains, prairies
and snow come to mind but we discovered it is
so much more!
Yes, Salt Lake City has the majestic Salt Lake
Temple and 15 awesome ski resorts, but the
state also offers incredible scenery, diverse
history, fantastic food and some of the most
epic landscapes I’ve ever experienced.
Our trip commenced in late March at the end of
the ski season and we planned some mountain
biking, hiking as well as a bit of skiing (if we
were lucky to get enough snow).
It turned out to be one of the best snow years in
history, so we made the most of the conditions
by heading up to Park City for our first day.
Formerly two separate ski resorts (Park City
Mountain and The Canyons) which were
linked by a gondola in 2015 making the largest
resort in The USA at 2954 hectares. Park City
Mountain has a mix of long cruisers on the Park
City Village side and steep fall line skiing on
The Canyons Village side. Stunning chalets and
mountain mansions line the sides of the runs
giving us a clue of where the beautiful people
live. The resorts are well laid out and navigation
around this huge resort is incredibly intuitive
At the end of the day, we headed off on the
three hour drive down to Bryce Canyon. This
geological marvel is the start of a series of
giant steps which trail from Bryce Canyon to
the Grand Canyon and encompass, several
National parks including Bryce Canyon, The
Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
and Zion. We spent a week exploring the
national parks in this area.
On the morning of day two of our trip we woke
up to fresh pristine snow. As we drove into
Bryce Canyon, we were wondering what this
staircase thing was all about. Then it hit us, as
we walked up to the edge of the first precipice
the earth dropped away from us in a series of
pink pinnacles and spires. Like a cathedral the
snow-covered landscape had a quiet grandeur.

Above: Monument Valley, Image by Phil Clark - Mad about Travel
Previous page: Bryce Canyon, image by Sean Lee
After a day of exploring the numerous
trails of Bryce Canyon National Park
it was still snowing and we decided to
move on to Zion National Park. The
prairie and farmland were studded with
canyons and the odd red rock mountain
and archway. Suddenly we arrived at
Zion and the landscape opened before
our eyes. It started with red rock, orange
hoodoo spires and white checker-board
mesa’s as we weaved our way into
the park. The highlight was exiting the
two-kilometer Zion - Mt Carmel Tunnel,
which took our breath away as we as
we gazed at the 2185m Sentinel and the
2350m East temple soaring above us.
The rest of the day was spent exploring
the visitors centre and the scenic drive
up to the Temple of Sinawava, taking
in the mountains with names like, The
Court of the Patriarchs, West Temple,
The Altar of Sacrifice, Mountain of
Mystery and the Great White Throne
climbing a thousand meters out of the
valley floor.
Completely buzzing from our experience
at Zion we headed to nearby Kanab to
fuel up at “Escobars” the local Mexican
restaurant to hunt out a chimichanga
and a Corona.
Day 4 of our trip started with another 10
cm of snow sitting on our car. Today we
were due to explore the pink and red
Peak A Boo Slot Canyon followed by a
drive out to the Coral Pink Sand Dunes
State Park where you can ride the
sand dunes on boogie boards. Neither
disappointed!
From Kanab we headed south to the
bottom of the Grand Staircase National
Monument. Crossing into Arizona we
stopped at the Wahweap Overlook and
took in the Grand Staircase to the north
and the 300km long Lake Powell to the
south, before driving across 220m high,
Glen Canyon dam. When they build stuff
in the USA they build it BIG!
From Arizona we crossed back into Utah
and headed for Monument Valley. This
area is the classic wild west landscape
of flat top mesa’s, dust devils, First
Nations people and red spires. As we
departed on our way to Moab, we drove
up the iconic Forrest Gump Highway
made famous by the classic movie
scene.
Halchita, Mexican Hat, Bluff, White
Mesa and Spanish Valley led us through
more epic scenery back up the staircase
to Moab as it started snowing again.
Moab is known as the mountain bike
capital of Utah and with bike racks
appearing on every other car we felt
right at home in this funky town.
Moab is amazing, bike shops outnumber
supermarkets and the trail heads are
well signposted with excellent map
stations and great facilities.
Trail heads like, Navajo Rocks, Dead
Horse Point, Horsethief, Klondike
Bluff and Klonzo all bring up images
of smooth pink, orange rock drops,
epic single track and long downhills.
Camping in sub-zero temperatures is
normal at Moab. Bike hire and shuttles
to the top of long downhills can be
easily arranged at one of the many well
equipped bike shops. Whether you like
Santa Cruz, Scott or Cannondale you
will find a shop which caters to your
taste in steed in Moab. Pre ride coffee at
Moab Coffee roasters was the best we
found in the USA and post ride you will
find margaritas and burritos at “Fiesta”
Mexican restaurant.
If you haven’t had your fill of canyons
and mountains yet, Arches National
Park is yet another beautiful park with
more hoodoo’s, spire and arches. Get
there early as there was a queue to
drive in even on a weekday.
Finally, it was time to head back to Salt
Lake City to drop the car and move
to the next part of our trip. Another
stunning drive led through the Price
Canyon along the Grand Army of the
Republic highway where wild deer could
be seen right on the side of the highway.
Utah truly has the most incredible mix of
scenery, activities, and culture to keep
anyone busy. We only discovered a
small part of this incredible state! But we
will be back!
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Experts at adventure travel since 2000
Your mountain bike travel specialists, with over
20 years experience ensures you have a fantastic
trip, crafted by people who really care.
Image by Greg Rosenke
New Zealand owned and operated
"We live what we sell"
0800 623 872
info@madabouttravel.co.nz
madabouttravel.co.nz

v a n u a t u
How To Get There
Fly into Port Vila from Auckland.
From Port Vila you can fly directly
to Ambrym. If you’re in Santo or
Craig Cove, there are flights leaving
for Ambrym from there as well. To
get the best up-to-date information,
check out the schedules on:
www.airvanuatu.com.
VANUATU AMBRYM ISLAND
What To Bring
• Hiking boots and walking poles:
the hike up Benbow is long, and you
want to be comfortable!
• Pack snacks! Especially for the
hike. If you’re a sugar fiend or rely on
morning and afternoon tea to get you
through the day, you’ll be grateful to
have a few goodies up your sleeve
during the long days of exploring.
• Cash to buy hand-carved goods
from the remote villages.
The volcanic island of Ambrym, with
its old lava flow, unfathomably deep
craters, and friendly dancers, will take
your breath away, right from when you
fly in over Benbow Volcano.
Vanuatu’s outer island Ambrym, located
in Malampa Province in the centre of the
Vanuatu archipelago, has a population
of just over 7,000 and speaks several
languages: North Ambrym language in
the north, Southeast Ambrym language
in the southeast, Daakaka in the south,
Lonwolwol in the west, and Port Vato
in the southwest. This island’s tropical
vegetation and black sand is iconic and
will be sure to delight as you explore
the landscape in the back of a Ute or by
foot.
Things to do and top attractions in Ambrym
Climb to the Rim of Benbow Volcano
The sea of black lava plains and jagged volcanic rocks that extend from the base of
Benbow volcano right to its rim, is the terrain that calls keen adventurers across the
world. Benbow was once famous for its bubbling lava lake and the deep red glow
visible after dark from grand distances. However, due to an earthquake in December
2018 which displaced hundreds of locals, the bubbling lake can no longer be seen.
But don’t let this stop you! We promise that the spectacular views from Benbow and
the neighbouring volcanoes will take your breath away. This two-day hike across
volcanic soil starts with a 3-4 hour climb up to the campsite, where you’ll dump your
bags, before the four hour round trip up the volcano. You’ll camp the night, and the
following day will make your way back down the mountain. Your walking poles will
come in handy as you’ll be feeling it in your knees!
Kayak across Lonwok Lake crater
The Lonwok Lake Crater is so deep you could put a cruise ship right in the middle
and it would float. After a volcanic eruption in 1913 that swallowed the local
Presbyterian hospital, this crater now serves as a place to swim and kayak. You’ll
have to jump on a short boat ride to get there and pay an entry fee (every piece of
land is owned by someone in Vanuatu!), but the landowner will welcome you with
open arms.
Drink at the local kava bar
Kava, a ceremonial drink is made from the root of the kava plant. Each island in
Vanuatu (and sometimes, each village!) has slightly different kastom practices when
it comes to consuming kava. Make sure you stop by the roadside kava bars (you’ll
recognise them by the little light on the roadside), have a couple of shells and ask
about how they prepare their kava. Be careful though, kava has soporific effects and
too much can leave you feeling hazy. Kava is generally served around sunset, and
it pays to go early to get freshly prepared kava. If you’re staying at the Ocean Blue
Bungalows on Ambrym, we recommend the kava bar just around the corner.
Experience the Fanla Rom dance and black magic tour
Take a short boat trip to Ranon on Pentecost Island to experience the sacred
Fanla Rom Dance and Black Magic Tour. The ‘Rom’, or ‘masked’ dance is known
for its detailed masks, elaborate costumes, and lively music. Performed by special
sorcerers, this dance gives you a unique insight into the magic that’s stitched into the
hands of local men.
For more information on an Ambryn Adventure contact the following reputable
operators or www.vanuatu.travel/nz/3-days-on-ambrym-island
Vanuatu Ecotours – www.vanuatuecotours.com
Wrecks to Rainforest – www.wreckstorainforest.com
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9.30am Mt Yasur on Tanna Island
Hiking Diving Culture
Volcanos
Go explore at vanuatu.travel

f i j i
FIJI
5 OCEAN ADVENTURES
YOU CAN’T MISS
Brimming with vibrant coral reefs and peaceful lagoons, Fiji is a dream destination for ocean
lovers. Whether you’re snorkelling with manta rays, surfing epic waves or setting off on a seakayaking
safari, there’s heaps of fun things to do both on and below the water.
Snorkelling
For an extra-special snorkelling experience, there’s swimming with reef sharks near Kuata
island in the Yasawa Island or gliding beside majestic manta rays during the season (May to
October) in Wakaya, Kadavu and the Yasawa Islands.
Scuba diving
If you’re eager to explore deeper, scuba diving is your ticket to adventure! Many resorts boast
on-site dive shops that offer discovery dives (ideal for newbies) and full dive courses for anyone
10 years and up – making it a fantastic family activity for older kids. Along with the colourful
coral, abundant sea life and great visibility, Fiji is the ultimate destination for scuba diving.
Surfing
With spots ranging from sheltered breaks for newbies through to world-class waves that pro
surfers plan entire trips around, Fiji is a true surf paradise. You’ll probably find seasoned surfers
daydreaming about Cloudbreak – a fearsome left reef break that comes alive with a big swell.
If you’re just starting out or want to hone your skills, surf schools like Fiji Surf Co will get you
gliding on beginner-friendly breaks in no time.
Fishing
There’s nothing quite like the thrill of reeling in a prize catch. If you want to try your luck at
hooking a big one, game fishing charters specialise in deep water fishing to find you fish like
marlin, sailfish, tuna, wahoo, giant trevally and mahimahi. Some fish are ‘catch and release’
only due to sustainable fishing regulations, and some you’ll be able to take back to your resort
to have cooked for your lunch or dinner. Start planning your dream fishing holiday with expert
anglers like Immersion Fiji (Savusavu) and Hidden Gem Fiji (Nadi/Mamanuca Islands)
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Sea kayaking
With 1129 kilometres of coastline, it’s no surprise that sea
kayaking is a popular way to explore the country. For a true offgrid
adventure, consider signing up for a sea kayaking safari,
where you’ll paddle between remote bays, visit authentic local
villages and discover secluded bays and hidden beaches. Check
out Southern Sea Ventures in the Yasawas for self-contained
camping sea kayak safaris or go with Tamarillo Active Travel in
Kadavu for epic island-hopping itineraries with a mixture of small
eco-resorts and village homestays.
.
Warning…with so many islands and options to explore, it might be
hard just picking one.
fiji.com.fj

Beautiful Samoa awaits you, and we are welcoming our international aiga
with open arms! Experience Samoa’s untouched beauty, unique cultural
experiences and rich heritage. Self drive, bike or stroll through the wonders
that make this island life one to cherish just like the locals do.
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n e w c a l e d o n i a
c a l e d o n i a
NEW CALEDONIA
ESCAPE THE
WINTER CHILL
The winter is well and truly here and while there are a lot
of fun activities to experience during the colder months
in New Zealand, sometimes all you want to do is to go
somewhere warm to keep the pulse pumping.
New Caledonia might seem like just another beach
holiday destination to the untrained eye. While the
destination is the perfect next-door option for a chill
holiday during the summer months, there are about
a million reasons why it’s the perfect active holiday
destination during the winter months, in particular
between June and September.
During these months, the temperature is still warm
but the humidity is much lower, which means you can
enjoy getting active and taking part in a variety of
outdoor activities more comfortably than at the height
of summer. The winter months, also known as the dry
season offer the ultimate climate for hiking, biking and
other on-land activities as it typically rains less and has
a milder temperature than during the wet seasons. The
temperatures during the winter range from the coldest of
17ºC to the highest of 30ºC.
Located less than 3 hours from Auckland, New
Caledonia offers a mix of ocean encounters in the world’s
largest lagoon, on-land activities and thrilling skyward
adventures.
Hiking
New Caledonia is a surprising playground for hikers as it’s home to
over 500 km of marked trails labelled by the French Federation of
Hiking (FFRP). The vast destination isn’t overloaded with tourists
meaning you can hike in large, open spaces away from the crowds.
It’s also one of the most biodiverse spots on the planet, with many
endemic plants and animals making it a great spot to discover
species you’ve never seen before. It has a variety of landscapes too,
ranging from a red earth desert in the south, to dense tropical forests
in the east, dry golden plains in the west and a mountain chain
running from north to south.
If you’re exploring the mountain range, make sure to pack some
warmer clothing as the temperatures can drop as low as zero at
night. Chilly nights apart, the cool season is the ideal period for
setting off to hike along the signposted trails that crisscross the vast
nature reserves in both the North and South Provinces of the Main
Island.
Check out trails such as the Mont Panie climb which will take you
through the northern province of the mainland, visiting tribal areas,
waterfalls and swimming holes. The end of the track is a hut at the
top of the 1,629m high mountain where you can rest overnight before
continuing on your journey. Closer to the capital there’s another great
mountain trek up Mont Dore which will treat trekkers with a beautiful
panoramic view of Noumea, the lagoon and the mountains of the
south.
Those wanting to challenge themselves have the opportunity to take
on the Grand Randonnée ® NC1 Nord and Sud trails which are an
extension of the French long distant trails. The Sud route will take
you through the contrasting landscapes of the Great South with its
red-earth deserts, lakes and rivers, through the Blue River Provincial
Park, a drowned forest and old mining trails. In contrast, the Nord
route will bring you close to the green wilderness of the east coast,
through the forests and many traditional Kanak villages where you
can try the traditional Bougna dish.
Sentier Boe Areredi - Bourail-© JC Robert
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//89

Bike trek-© Province Sud NCT
Biking
The lower temperature in the winter months makes New
Caledonia a great stop for experienced bikers to explore.
The 400km long main island, Grand Terre is divided by
a mountain range, making the differences between the
east and west parts of the island significantly different.
The east coast is lush and tropical with palm-lined
roads and gushing streams, while the west is covered in
grassy plains and a cinematic view of the lagoon. While
traversing the roads, cyclists can stop by villages and
roadside stalls where there’s an array of New Caledonian
local produce, pastries and cheeses to pick up along
the way. The tropical rainforest of Parc des Grandes
Fougères is a popular route for mountain biking.
Sports events to keep an eye out for in 2023
South Tourisme VTT Pro Tour - Mountain biking competition
Divided into three different stages, the VTT Pro Tour is taking
place in the tropical rainforest of Parc des Grandes Fougères
near Farino in the middle of the Grand Terre (Stage 1 / 4 June),
across the grassland tracks in Deva Domain on the West Coast
(Stage 2 / 16 July) and across the red-dirt tracks in the Blue River
Provincial Park in the Great South (Stage 3 / 1 Oct). Whatever
the goal you want to set for each stage, there is a distance that
corresponds to your level: 10 km, 25 km and 50 km.
https://www.protour.nc/
Shell Pacific MEGARANDO – 2 September
One of the biggest mountain biking events in New Caledonia
is returning for its 20th edition, bringing together hundreds of
amateur cyclists to this event in Bourail and the magnificent
Domaine de Deva.
https://www.megarando.nc/
Beach Party & Triathlon Lifou - 27 - 29 October
The Luengoni tribe invites both amateur and seasoned athletes
to its beautiful beach in the Loyalty Islands with this big festival
combined with a triathlon.
Les Terrasses de Shabadran-© Antoine Roulleau NCT
Coastal Festival & Maré Trail - 8-10 December
Every year, the tribe of Eni on the second-largest of the Loyalty
Islands, organises its big coastal festival. An event dedicated
to seafood, and it is also an opportunity for many sportsmen to
participate in the Air Calédonie de Maré trail.
90//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#238

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