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Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 28

Modern Sewing Starts Here is a digital publication which features articles, reviews and handy tips for anyone with an interest in contemporary sewing. In this edition ... Pick Of The Patterns … see the latest apparel pattern releases Making the Santa Rosa Top from Liesl + Co … Jacqui Smith makes this semi-sheer shirt for summer. Sheers …  Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages discusses the best ways to sewing these summer fabrics. Arm Candy ... We talk to Anna Graham from Noodlehead about bag making. Summer Travel ... 5 bag styles that will have your holiday sorted! Trend Setter ... Asymmetric styling! Focus On Fabrics ...  + More ...

Modern Sewing Starts Here is a digital publication which features articles, reviews and handy tips for anyone with an interest in contemporary sewing.

In this edition ...
Pick Of The Patterns … see the latest apparel pattern releases

Making the Santa Rosa Top from Liesl + Co … Jacqui Smith makes this semi-sheer shirt for summer.

Sheers …  Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages discusses the best ways to sewing these summer fabrics.

Arm Candy ... We talk to Anna Graham from Noodlehead about bag making.

Summer Travel ... 5 bag styles that will have your holiday sorted!

Trend Setter ... Asymmetric styling!

Focus On Fabrics ... 

+ More ...

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<strong>Modern</strong><br />

sewing<br />

starts here..<br />

<strong>Edition</strong> <strong>28</strong> – June 2023<br />

Pick<br />

of the<br />

patterns<br />

New pattern releases!<br />

BAG<br />

MAKING<br />

Anna Graham from<br />

Noodlehead talks about<br />

her designs plus 5 bag<br />

styles for holiday<br />

FABRICS<br />

FOR<br />

SUMMER<br />

SEWING<br />

ASYMMETRICAL<br />

STYLING<br />

Patterns and fabrics to make the look<br />

ALL ABOUT<br />

SHEER FABRICS<br />

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk


Pattern Finder<br />

www.hantex.co.uk/patternfinder<br />

Find the perfect pattern for your next project …<br />

search by brand, garment type, fabric type, skill level or even season<br />

Pattern Finder<br />

Use the find a stockist facility to support independent retailers and designers


Editor’s Letter<br />

Don’t you agree that summer is probably the most productive<br />

time of the year for sewing? The lovely prints of summer fabrics<br />

are definitely inspiring us when it comes to making gorgeous<br />

things!<br />

In this edition, we talk about working with the lighter sheer<br />

fabrics and Jacqui Smith plays with the new Dobby Voile from<br />

Modelo Fabrics and makes an oversized shirt.<br />

Bag making is as popular as ever and we’re delighted to chat<br />

with bag maker, Anna Graham from Noodlehead and why she<br />

loves making bags so much! We also round-up five bag styles that<br />

will have your holiday sorted and look at patterns and fabrics to<br />

create the asymmetrical style.<br />

The edition is, of course also, jam-packed with the latest sewing<br />

and quilting patterns, and the best fabrics for your next sewing<br />

project!<br />

Happy sewing!<br />

Hantex Team<br />

www.hantex.co.uk<br />

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk<br />

Subscribe and never miss the latest copy of <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>Starts</strong> <strong>Here</strong> - click here<br />

#modernsewingstartshere


Named<br />

Clothing<br />

The Lexi Dress has the right balance of relaxed and fitted<br />

elements. This lined dress has a sleek A-line fit, set-in sleeves and<br />

a boat neck, and a dropped waistline. The skirt has small, subtle<br />

pleats at the front and back and a concealed zip fastening at the<br />

back. Make this dress in dress-weight woven fabric like rayon or<br />

Tencel. This sewing pattern comes in sizes 4-<strong>28</strong>.<br />

To find your nearest stockist of Named Clothing – click here<br />

The Austin Dress is a semifitted<br />

sleeveless dress with<br />

Grainline<br />

armhole darts and a keyhole Studio<br />

opening at the centre front.<br />

Customise it with your choice of a<br />

knee length A-line or midi-length<br />

gathered skirt. Add function with<br />

patch pockets and interest with<br />

topstitched seams and button band<br />

closures. This dress is ideal for light<br />

to medium weight woven fabrics<br />

like cotton poplin, chambray, denim,<br />

linen, linen blends, rayon, and rayon<br />

blends. The pattern comes in sizes<br />

0-18 and 14-30.<br />

To view this latest pattern and more<br />

from Grainline Studio - click here<br />

The Regalia Blouse ties at the back with a keyhole opening and<br />

has pretty gathers and puffy sleeves. It also features front and back<br />

yokes, stand-up collar and two lengths and sleeve designs that can<br />

be mix and matched. Choose between a loose and flowy cropped<br />

hem to wear with high waist trousers and skirts or a slightly longer<br />

tuck-in length blouse with an optional waist tie. This pattern looks<br />

best sewn in a light-weight, woven fabric such as cotton voile or lawn but<br />

it also looks lovely in linen. This pattern comes in sizes 0-20 and 16-34.<br />

To find your nearest stockist of Sew House Seven – click here<br />

Sew<br />

House<br />

Seven<br />

New apparel pattern releases to fill your wardrobe!<br />

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand<br />

or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk


Focus on<br />

FABRICS<br />

New collections from<br />

Art Gallery Fabrics<br />

Seeds Mauve<br />

Get ready for summer with these<br />

wonderful new fabric collections<br />

SEEDLING<br />

This range is bang on when it comes to the popular<br />

and delicate shades of mauve to deepest grey and<br />

steely blue. Add a dash of style with Seedling’s<br />

subtle blenders to your sewing. Effortlessly cool in<br />

mineral shades, and truly timeless.<br />

Seeds Huckleberry<br />

Seeds Sky<br />

Bag made using<br />

fabric designs from<br />

Mindscape and<br />

Seedling<br />

Blossoming<br />

Apricots<br />

Shown on the Kalle Shirt<br />

from Closet Core<br />

High Tide Day<br />

Abundance<br />

Cloud<br />

LULLABEE<br />

You can certainly tell from looking at the LullaBee<br />

fabric collection that it has been designed by<br />

surface pattern designer, Patty Basemi as it<br />

features all her favourite things! Magic is in the<br />

air with this whimsical colour-filled work in shades<br />

of daffodil, clover, marigold, pink and lavender.<br />

Find the music in your heart as magical bees sing<br />

enchanted lullabies to make their garden grow<br />

and thrive, and of course your sewing project will<br />

look beautiful!<br />

Bee You<br />

Fresh<br />

Rainbow<br />

Chords<br />

MINDSCAPE<br />

You can almost hear the sound of the waves and feel the sand<br />

beneath your toes as you escape the everyday with this new fabric<br />

collection, Mindscape. Inspired by Katarina’s Roccella’s treasured<br />

memories of days spent along the coast and heartfelt family<br />

traditions – it features soft greys, blues, beige, peaches and pinks.<br />

Bee<br />

Home<br />

Fluttering<br />

Lanes


HAVEN<br />

Amy Sinibaldi brings graceful flowers and beautiful blossoms<br />

to life and a sense of peace and harmony with this tranquil<br />

collection. Inky blue foliage and a soft palette of blush, cream<br />

and mint invite you to slow down and savour the wonders of<br />

the world around us. Let the beauty of nature inspire you to<br />

create your own Haven with pretty sewing projects.<br />

Brushed Leaves Gris<br />

Clayflower Sweet<br />

Seasons Bloom<br />

Berry Drizzle<br />

Floral Follies<br />

Boteh Flourish<br />

Deep Roots<br />

KINDRED<br />

Say hello to Kismet’s sister collection, Kindred by<br />

Sharon Holland. It’s global, flirty and full of charm<br />

in rich shades of russet, berry, ecru and bold navy.<br />

With hand-drawn florals and dashing geometrics this collection has its own eclectic and bohemian vibe that’s wonderful for summer.<br />

FLOWER BLOOM<br />

Swing into this season with<br />

bold florals and groovy prints<br />

with warm saturated yellows,<br />

moss greens and energetic<br />

pinks – this collection is<br />

blooming with spectacular<br />

colour. Express your inner<br />

flower child with vintage<br />

inspired prints and playful<br />

designs. We love it!<br />

Sun Bound<br />

Flower Power<br />

Flowering Waves<br />

All AGF collections contain 100% premium cottons but many also have rayon, flannel, knit and canvas options<br />

To view all the current Art Gallery Fabrics collection - click here


The latest<br />

fabric ranges from<br />

Modelo<br />

COTTON VOILE DOBBY<br />

Dobby is a woven fabric made on a dobby loom, and characterised by small geometric patterns usually dots, which also adds<br />

extra texture in the fabric. The Kaibo collection is a light and floaty 100% cotton fabric that’s ideal for summer garments and<br />

comes in seven pretty muted shades of old rose, denim, grey blue, fern green, pale green, cream and white. It’s lovely both to<br />

sew and wear!<br />

Rose Musk<br />

FLORAL<br />

SEERSUCKER<br />

Plain seersucker is a popular<br />

choice on the high street,<br />

and with sewists at the<br />

moment. The new Kaitia<br />

range from Modelo is a<br />

little special as it comes in<br />

a gorgeous floral design<br />

and three colourways – light<br />

blue, lavender and navy.<br />

Make your favourite dress<br />

or top sewing pattern in this<br />

charming fabric.<br />

Soft Green<br />

Grey<br />

Navy<br />

Lavender<br />

Navy Tile<br />

Lavender<br />

Navy<br />

BENGALINE<br />

This luxurious rayon-based<br />

woven fabric has a high-level of<br />

stretch (up to 50%) from selvedge<br />

to selvedge. It’s popular with<br />

high-end ready-to-wear brands<br />

because it’s hardwearing but very<br />

comfortable. It’s a great fabric for<br />

trousers and skirts where stretch<br />

recovery is needed.There are two<br />

collections - the Murra collection<br />

contains seven plain solid colours<br />

while the Tiaret collection features<br />

two geometric pattern designs in<br />

black and navy.<br />

Light Blue<br />

RIBBED<br />

KNITS<br />

Modelo has just<br />

brought out a summerinspired,<br />

lighter weight<br />

rib knit viscose jersey<br />

with 6% elastane for<br />

stretch. The Zaria<br />

collection comes in<br />

nine colours and is<br />

perfect for summer<br />

tops and dresses.<br />

To view all the current collections from Modelo - click here


MAKING THE<br />

Santa Rosa Sheer Shirt from Liesl + Co<br />

By Jacqui Smith<br />

I love the idea of a semi-sheer shirt for the summer! It can elevate simple trousers and vests to<br />

a complete outfit. It’s also great for packing on holiday as it can be worn as a swimsuit cover up,<br />

light jacket, and a top with a skirt or trousers for the evening. Just wear a simple camisole or<br />

vest underneath!<br />

My pattern choice<br />

I wanted to make a slightly oversized shirt with dropped sleeves,<br />

but with all the other features you’d expect from a classic shirt,<br />

such as a yoke, proper shirt cuffs and collar. I decided to use<br />

the new Santa Rosa Top + Dress Pattern by Liesl + Co as this<br />

pattern had the right basic shape.<br />

However, I wanted a full button opening down the front with<br />

a shirttail hem. To achieve this, I had to make a few adjustments<br />

to the original pattern.<br />

Firstly, I wanted to make my shirt mid length, so I used the<br />

dress length pattern and shortened this by 20cm. This meant<br />

that I could have the shirttail hem rather than a straight hem.<br />

The second change was to have a traditional, button up finish<br />

rather than a popover style. To achieve this, I added 6cm to<br />

each side of the front edge, rather than cut it on the fold. I then<br />

cut two long pieces of interfacing 3cm wide. This was fused<br />

along the front edge on the wrong side, then turned in twice.<br />

I then topstitched along the outer edge and the 3cm edge, to<br />

give a neat finish to the button bands. You do need to shape<br />

the top of the 6cm extension a little to mirror the neck edge.<br />

The collar from this pattern fitted perfectly so no changes were<br />

needed.<br />

My fabric choice<br />

The fabric that I chose was a fine cotton voile with intricate<br />

rows of sheer detail and also dobby spots, which gives a lot of<br />

textural interest in the finished garment. It’s plain in colour, but<br />

with plenty of other surface interest, and being cotton, it will<br />

be lovely and cool for the summer. This fabric is available in a<br />

range of subtle muted colours.


For this semi-sheer fabric, I used a fine sewing thread and needle on my machine and trimmed my<br />

seam allowances neatly on the yoke, collar and cuffs. As the fabric is semi-sheer not totally sheer<br />

I used a very fine fusible interfacing on the cuffs, collar and button bands.<br />

All internal seams, I finished with French seams. The seam allowance on this pattern is ½in or<br />

approx 13mm. I used my ¼in foot to sew the first seam and then trimmed this carefully, after<br />

folding right sides out I then did another ¼in seam to finish it. The result is a very neat, narrow<br />

french seam.<br />

EDITORS NOTES<br />

THE PATTERN:<br />

This is an all-season style that will be extremely<br />

versatile in your wardrobe. Make an effortless top<br />

or dress with a band collar, popover button placket,<br />

and dolman sleeves. It’s cut loose with dropped<br />

shoulders and a box pleat at the centre back. Make<br />

with cut-on dolman short sleeves, or a self tie,<br />

curved shirttail hem, and long sleeves with classic<br />

cuffs for the dress. This pattern comes in sizes 0-20.<br />

To view this pattern and others from Liesl + Co –<br />

click here<br />

THE FABRIC:<br />

Jacqui chose to make her sheer<br />

shirt in Cream Dobby Voile<br />

from the Kaibo collection from<br />

Modelo. Which is ideal for<br />

lightweight blouses and tops,<br />

dresses and skirts. It’s made<br />

from 100% cotton and comes<br />

in seven pretty muted pastel<br />

shades.<br />

To view the full range of Dobby<br />

Voile from Modelo – click here


SHEERS<br />

Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages shares her<br />

tips for sewing with these summer fabrics<br />

What is a sheer fabric?<br />

A sheer fabric is a fabric that’s either see-through<br />

or slightly transparent. Sheer fabrics come in<br />

different weights and degrees of transparency.<br />

Really-sheer fabrics don’t hide what’s underneath<br />

including the garment’s construction.<br />

Some are made from natural fibres like cotton<br />

and silk, while others are made from synthetic<br />

fibres like polyester and nylon or a mix of both!<br />

Those made from natural fibres are usually more<br />

expensive and look and feel more luxurious.<br />

These are also softer, floatier, more absorbent<br />

and breathable. While synthetic ones can look<br />

cheaper in comparison and feel rougher against<br />

the skin and more rigid.<br />

The main sheer fabrics:<br />

The Wilder Gown from Friday Pattern Company<br />

BATISTE<br />

LACE<br />

ORGANZA<br />

CHIFFON<br />

LAWN<br />

TAFFETA<br />

EYELET<br />

MUSLIN<br />

TULLE<br />

GAUZE<br />

NETTING<br />

VOILE<br />

GEORGETTE<br />

ORGANDIE


Sheer fabrics can also present<br />

the sewer with some additional<br />

challenges. <strong>Here</strong>’s some tips for<br />

successfully working with them:<br />

Montrose Top from<br />

Cashmerette<br />

Pattern Choice<br />

You’ll need to choose your sewing pattern wisely as any seams,<br />

darts or hemlines will be visible – avoid garments with zips,<br />

large darts, and facings as these can look ugly.<br />

Cutting<br />

Sheers have a tendency to shift around especially chiffon,<br />

organza and tulle so you need to be careful when cutting out.<br />

Always cut the sheer fabrics in single layers. I find that<br />

pinning a layer of tissue paper to the sheer fabric to cut out<br />

helps. Also using pattern weights and sharp rotary cutter work<br />

well. When the seam has been sewn you can easily tear away<br />

any stabilising layers.<br />

Test the fabric<br />

Make sure you use the correct needle (a fine sharp needle) and<br />

the correct thread for your fabric. Practise the tension, different<br />

stitches and seam finishes that you’re going to use on scraps of<br />

the fabric.<br />

TOP TIP: Use a looser tension with a shorter stitch<br />

Special finishes<br />

<strong>Sewing</strong><br />

Sheer fabrics do tend to bunch up and shift during sewing.<br />

Try to keep your sewing taut especially on long seams. With<br />

both hands, hold your fabric firmly behind and in front of<br />

the presser foot as you sew. Don’t pull it but let your sewing<br />

machine’s feed dogs feed the fabric under the presser foot.<br />

Every so often, with the needle down stop sewing, lift the<br />

presser foot to release the tension in the fabric. This will help<br />

reduce any puckering in the seams. Avoid backstitching at the<br />

end and tie off longer tails of thread with a knot.<br />

TOP TIP: Sew slowly as unpicking really isn’t an<br />

option on most sheer fabrics!<br />

As already mentioned seams on the inside of<br />

the garment will be visible. French and fell<br />

seams work well. Use a rolled hem foot to<br />

create a narrow rolled hem that looks very neat.<br />

Closures and fastenings<br />

Use lightweight closures for sheer fabrics like small buttons<br />

and hook and eyes. Use little pieces of fusible interlining to<br />

strengthen sheer fabric when sewing your buttonholes.<br />

Pressing seams<br />

Use a presser cloth with a low heat. Sheer fabrics especially<br />

synthetic ones don’t like heat and can scorch easily.


ARM<br />

CANDY<br />

We talk to Anna Graham<br />

from Noodlehead about<br />

bag making<br />

Haralson Belt Bag<br />

Firefly Tote<br />

Tell us a little bit about your background and<br />

when you decided you wanted to design bag<br />

patterns for a living?<br />

I have an art degree with a focus on graphic design. My first<br />

job after college was a marketing position for a local general<br />

commercial/industrial contractor. I worked there for almost<br />

10 years, and had started my sewing blog in my free time<br />

during the last few years of working full-time. I needed a way<br />

to channel my creativity while feeling like I accomplished<br />

something. It took a few years of sewing before I really found<br />

my focus and love of bag making.<br />

I grew up sewing garments with my mom, and started quilting<br />

when my oldest daughter was just a baby (she’s 17 now). Bag<br />

making for me is very satisfying because it gives me a chance to<br />

be creative and have something that I can use everyday!<br />

How did the name Noodlehead come about?<br />

Noodlehead was named after my oldest daughter, her hair was<br />

curly when she was little and Noodlehead was her nickname! I<br />

definitely didn’t plan to start a business, but it is a pretty special<br />

sentiment to look back and see how it all progressed - silly<br />

name and all.


Poolside Tote<br />

Compass Bag<br />

What do you love the most about making bags?<br />

I love that each project is different. I’m always interested in<br />

learning different techniques and trying new things. I like that<br />

each step is different and it keeps me excited about the next<br />

step. It’s like putting together a puzzle and in the end you get<br />

a usable object!<br />

Where does your inspiration come from for<br />

new patterns?<br />

Details! I love looking at little details of things like garments and<br />

shoes. I’m drawn to those types of objects.<br />

I also get inspired when testing out prototypes. Sometimes a<br />

‘failed’ prototype ends up spurring along another idea. Problem<br />

solving during prototyping is challenging and so rewarding<br />

when things finally click into place.<br />

What are your best-selling bag patterns and do<br />

you have a favourite?<br />

Well, it always seems like the newest pattern is the best-seller!<br />

But I have patterns from 10 years ago that are still top sellers,<br />

too! I think a favourite for me is always the newest one.<br />

What advice would you give anyone who thinks<br />

making bags is too fiddly?<br />

It’s all what your mindset is, if you go into it thinking that way, it’ll<br />

probably end up being true!<br />

If bag making seems too daunting, always start with simpler<br />

projects and build on from there. I always recommend a simple<br />

zippered pouch. I have a ton of free projects to sew on my<br />

website, www.noodlehead.com. They’re great for beginners<br />

and trying new techniques. It’s all about building your knowledge<br />

and skills.<br />

It’s also about managing expectations. Anyone thinking a bag<br />

only takes a few hours will probably end up pretty frustrated! I<br />

highly recommend separating the different steps into different<br />

sewing sessions. I like to cut my fabrics and fuse interfacings in<br />

one session, and then break the sewing into one to two more<br />

sessions. I’ve had many failed projects over the years, so don’t<br />

feel bad when something doesn’t work out how you envisioned it.<br />

Pick something else and try again! <strong>Sewing</strong> is about enjoying the<br />

process.<br />

To find your local stockist and view more bag patterns from Noodlehead - click here


Summer Travel<br />

5 bag styles that will have your holiday sorted!<br />

The Town Bag<br />

The Haralson Crossbody Belt Bag<br />

About<br />

Town<br />

Hands<br />

Free<br />

Weekend<br />

Away<br />

Tidy<br />

Travel<br />

Get Out of Town Duffle Bag<br />

Day<br />

Trips<br />

The Travel Essentials Bag<br />

The Haralson<br />

Crossbody Belt Bag<br />

from Noodlehead is<br />

perfect for days out and<br />

keeping your valuables<br />

close. Its compact and<br />

easy to wear across<br />

your front or back, and<br />

there’s lots of zippered<br />

pockets to hold your<br />

phone, passport and<br />

other items you need<br />

to hand.<br />

The Town Bag from<br />

Grainline Studio<br />

is a great everyday<br />

bag for taking with<br />

you wherever you<br />

go but also perfect<br />

for carrying your<br />

unfinished projects.<br />

It has the same<br />

drawstring closure,<br />

tote-style handles and<br />

features external front<br />

and back pockets.<br />

Practical yet stylish, the sturdy<br />

Get Out of Town Duffle Bag<br />

from ByAnnie is perfect for a<br />

weekend trip. It easily fits in<br />

the overhead storage or under<br />

the seat to jet away. and the<br />

full-zippered top makes it easy<br />

to access the contents. It has a<br />

padded adjustable strap that’s<br />

comfortable on your shoulder<br />

while the quick-grab side<br />

handles make it convenient to<br />

pick up and go!<br />

The Dainty Daytripper<br />

from Mrs H is a multipurpose<br />

bag designed for<br />

getting out and about! Wear<br />

it as a backpack or lengthen<br />

the straps and use as a<br />

crossbody or shoulder bag.<br />

It’s the perfect bag to make<br />

your own with diamond<br />

strap anchors and rivets,<br />

and the front pocket is great<br />

to show off fabric panels or<br />

add embroidery.<br />

To view the full range of bag sewing patterns available – click here<br />

The Travel Essentials<br />

Bag from ByAnnie<br />

will carry all your<br />

essentials in style<br />

and includes a handy<br />

fold-up organiser and<br />

a bonus hot tools<br />

sleeve. The organiser<br />

has mesh and vinyl<br />

pockets and the handy<br />

hanging strap means<br />

you can hang it up<br />

wherever you are!


TRENDSETTER<br />

Asymmetric<br />

THE TREND<br />

They say opposites attract! Asymmetrical styling creates a lovely contrast between<br />

the left and right side or the back and front, and adds a stylish edge to your garment!<br />

THE FABRIC<br />

Sew this pattern in light to medium weight dress or shirting<br />

fabrics like cotton, linen, chambray, rayon and silk, and knit<br />

fabrics can be used with the bonus knit options!<br />

GO FOR PLAIN, PRINT, CHECK OR STRIPE!<br />

Denim Blue - Yarn Dyed Wide<br />

Stripe Linen/Cotton Blend<br />

from Carbury by Modelo Fabrics<br />

To view - click here<br />

Grey/White - Yarn Dyed Small<br />

Gingham Check from Kobenz by<br />

Modelo Fabrics<br />

To view - click here<br />

THE PATTERN<br />

We love the Floreat! It’s an asymmetrical dress or<br />

top that can be made from woven or knit fabrics.<br />

The pattern has clean lines, woven and knit facing<br />

options, inseam pockets as well as multiple sleeve<br />

and hem lengths. Make sleeveless or with long or<br />

short sleeves. It’s the ideal pattern to embrace this<br />

trend! The pattern comes in sizes 0-20.<br />

Found Sprigs Cotton from<br />

Mindscape designed by Katarina<br />

Roccella from Art Gallery Fabrics<br />

To view - click here<br />

Bamboo/Cotton Everyday<br />

Chambray collection from<br />

Fableism comes in 17 beautiful<br />

pastel colours.<br />

To view - click here<br />

To see more from Megan Nielsen - click here


CONTINUOS<br />

Binding 101<br />

One of the most tedious steps in quilt making for many quilters is to<br />

make the binding! Pat Bravo shares the easiest method she has found!<br />

How many of you don’t enjoy the long process of making bias binding?<br />

But a quilt is not a quilt until its quilted and bound, right? Binding is very<br />

important because it ‘frames’ the quilt, and holds the ‘quilt sandwich’ (that’s<br />

composed of the top, batting and backing). In addition, the quilt becomes<br />

more resistant to the wear and tear of normal use.<br />

A good rule of thumb is:<br />

If you’re making a quilt and<br />

you plan to wash it frequently,<br />

use ‘double binding’. If it<br />

needs to be washed every<br />

once in a while, a ‘single<br />

binding’ will be enough…<br />

“There is a discrepancy in the<br />

quilting world about the width of<br />

the strips. Many quilters think a<br />

single binding is enough. While<br />

others, swear by the double binding<br />

(which takes a wider strip, which<br />

is folded double before applying it).<br />

They say it’s much stronger.”<br />

To do your binding the right way, you need to cut the fabric on bias.<br />

If you are new to quilting you might ask yourself, what is that? This is when you cut<br />

the fabric on a 45° angle. The problem is that to get long strips you need to open the<br />

fabric, cut the strips and then join them together.<br />

Wouldn’t you love to have one continuous strip instead of cutting and piecing strips<br />

one after the other? <strong>Here</strong>’s how…<br />

Step 1<br />

Step 2<br />

To start, have a ½yd. of the fabric you’ll use for the binding squared up.<br />

Fold the fabric in half, meeting selvedges and right sides together.<br />

TIP: If you want longer binding, just cut a larger piece of fabric.<br />

Sew around three sides of the fabric piece with a ¼in<br />

seam allowance.


Step 3<br />

Step 4<br />

Mark a line diagonally from corner to corner. Clip one corner crossing<br />

1/8in inwards from the corner’s seam allowance. Introduce the tip of<br />

the scissors and cut only the top layer of fabric on the marked line.<br />

When you get to the opposite end, clip the other corner.<br />

TIP: Be very careful to cut only the top layer!<br />

Flip over the entire piece of fabric to the other side,<br />

and repeat the previous step (mark, clip and cut) but<br />

now on the opposite two corners.<br />

Step 6<br />

Step 5<br />

Grab the fabric from the cut edges and open it up. You will get a<br />

tube of fabric. Press all seams open. Lay the tube on top of a cutting<br />

mat (positioning folds on top and bottom), and square up the edges<br />

with a ruler aligning the top edge with the fold of the fabric. Trim<br />

both edges with a rotary cutter.<br />

Position your ruler 1½in from the edge and cut the<br />

fabric (with the rotary cutter) up to 4in from the top<br />

fold. Keep cutting 1½in strips until you reach the<br />

opposite edge. You will finish with a piece of strips<br />

not totally separated.<br />

Step 8<br />

Step 7<br />

Lift the tube from the table. Inserting your hands in the tube and<br />

rotating it, lay it down on the table again, but this time with the<br />

sections that were ‘uncut’ centred.<br />

Using your ruler and a fabric marker, connect one<br />

edge of the strip with the next strip on the left. Do<br />

the same with all the other strips. Cut each line with<br />

scissors.<br />

Voila!! You now have yards and yards of continuous bias binding! This method is incredibly<br />

easy and accurate every time you do it! You’ll see slight kinks at regular intervals, but this<br />

shouldn’t be a problem since fabric is on bias and it is very manageable.<br />

Plan carefully - The amount of binding you’ll need measuring the four sides of the quilt and<br />

adding 15in extra for closing the ends.<br />

Look for more tutorials, patterns and ideas on Pat Bravo’s blog over at<br />

artgalleryfabrics.typepad.com<br />

I’ve calculated that with ½yd<br />

of fabric and cutting strips<br />

1½in wide, you will yield<br />

approximately 15-18 yards of<br />

binding. If you cut strips for<br />

double binding (that’s 2½in<br />

wide), you will get much less<br />

(approx. 7-10 yards).


Quilt Pattern Packs<br />

Rope & Anchor Trading has several<br />

new quilt patterns that are perfect for<br />

beginners and those who love wildlife<br />

especially. Choose from a Stag or Sea<br />

Turtle, both patterns come with pattern<br />

illustrations, fabric requirements, cutting<br />

instructions and sewing instructions. Or<br />

why not try a more quirky quilt? Two<br />

other new patterns include the Big Heart<br />

Quilt and Sugar Skull Quilt.<br />

To find these quilt patterns and more<br />

from Rope & Anchor Trading - click here<br />

WHAT’S<br />

new<br />

To view the full<br />

collection of quilting<br />

patterns available –<br />

click here<br />

We keep you posted on the latest<br />

products<br />

Best Sewable & Iron-on Bond<br />

HeatnBond Lite is a paper-backed, ironon,<br />

sewable, double-sided adhesive for<br />

bonding fabric without any extra weight<br />

or stiffness that’s permanent. Use it in<br />

place of pinning or basting for appliqué<br />

shapes on quilts, wall hangings and<br />

garments. Draw or print directly on the<br />

paper backing to easily design appliqué<br />

pieces! It’s 17in wide and comes in a<br />

75yd display box and does not gum up<br />

your sewing needles!<br />

For this and more HeatnBond items -<br />

click here


New fabrics for this season<br />

Listen to the sound of the waves & feel the sand beneath your toes<br />

as you escape the everyday. Get swept away by a seascape of<br />

textural prints in shades of slate blue, parchment, apricot & tawny<br />

tan. Inspired by Katarina’s treasured memories of days spent along<br />

the coast & heartfelt family traditions.<br />

16 cottons | 1 Flannel | 1 Rayon | 1 Linen | 1 Canvas<br />

Full details & stockists


New fabrics for this season<br />

Graceful flowers & beautiful blossoms bring a sense of peace and<br />

harmony to this tranquil collection. Inky blue foliage and a soft palette<br />

of blush, cream and mint invite you to slow down and savour<br />

the wonder of the world around us. Let the beauty of nature inspire<br />

you to create your own Haven.<br />

14 cottons | 1 Flannel | 1 Rayon | 1 Canvas<br />

Full details & stockists


New fabrics for this season<br />

Say hello to Kismet’s sister collection- Kindred. Global, flirty and full<br />

of charm in rich shades of russet, berry, ecru and bold navy. Hand<br />

drawn florals and dashing geometrics give this collection its own<br />

eclectic and bohemian vibe..<br />

16 cottons | 2 Flannel | 1 Rayon | 1 Canvas<br />

Full details & stockists


New fabrics for this season<br />

Mystery At Moonstone Manor is a nod to the Nancy Drew books I’ve been collecting since I was a little girl. Diving into<br />

those mysteries was always just the escape I needed. This Halloween collection is for all the mystery lovers out there<br />

who love those eerie, moody vibes all year round. …. Click here for details<br />

44”-45” WIDE 100% CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON | MADE IN KOREA | MACHINE WASH COLD NON-CHLORINE BLEACH TUMBLE DRY LOW REMOVE PROMPTLY


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All Fableism Fabrics are<br />

100% cotton and perfect for<br />

use in quilts, home decor,<br />

and apparel. The earthy<br />

palette of nature-inspired<br />

colours will have you<br />

admiring your projects for<br />

many years to come.<br />

Credits:<br />

Felix Quilt pattern by @penelopehandmade<br />

Quilt made by @kimmvogel<br />

photographed by @olivia.grace.photo

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