ESTETICA Magazine USA (3/2023)
Estetica Magazine is the world's leading hairdressing magazine. Founded in Italy in 1946 and published today in over 60 countries around the world, it is a global reference point for professionals working in the hair and beauty industry. Techniques, fashion, education and trends are at the core of every issue of Estetica Magazine. Further information about both the printed and digital versions of the magazine is available at magazines.esteticanetwork.com
Estetica Magazine is the world's leading hairdressing magazine. Founded in Italy in 1946 and published today in over 60 countries around the world, it is a global reference point for professionals working in the hair and beauty industry. Techniques, fashion, education and trends are at the core of every issue of Estetica Magazine. Further information about both the printed and digital versions of the magazine is available at magazines.esteticanetwork.com
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<strong>USA</strong> EDITION<br />
FIERY PALETTES<br />
Turning up the<br />
heat for this fall<br />
POP & NOT<br />
From Barbie<br />
to business<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Scalp care, tools,<br />
and treatments
INNOVATIVE. POWERFUL.<br />
RESPONSIBLE.<br />
THE NEW TOPCHIC ZERO.<br />
Goldwell introduces the incredibly caring, ammonia-free addition to Topchic.<br />
Topchic Zero stays true to its iconic heritage while giving you more options for<br />
your color services. The vegan formula* offers incredibly natural, reliable grey<br />
coverage – up to 100% – while providing natural looking, even color results with<br />
up to 2x more shine**. Discover more at goldwell.com<br />
* Free from animal-derived ingredients.<br />
** Vs untreated hair.<br />
Scan to learn more<br />
about Topchic Zero.<br />
#TOPCHICZERO #GOGOLDWELL
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ORGANISER – COSMOPROF ASIA LTD<br />
A NEW WORLD FOR BEAUTY BOLOGNA, HONG KONG, LAS VEGAS, MUMBAI, BANGKOK, MIAMI
haireditorial<br />
Keeping up... in an industry that<br />
never sleeps!<br />
It’s true. If hairdressing were a city, it would be New York, New York. And<br />
it can truly be exhausting! It seems like every few minutes trendsetting<br />
creatives in the world continue to publish new collections. Established<br />
brands are constantly coming up with new products for coloring,<br />
styling, or care. Researchers are developing new ingredients –<br />
chemical, natural and botanicals – and testing their effectiveness.<br />
Engineers are working on how to apply new electronic and smart<br />
technologies to tools with a view to facilitating the hairdresser’s work,<br />
Marie Scarano<br />
Editor-in-Chief<br />
safeguarding their health, and saving time while guaranteeing topnotch<br />
results. Entrepreneurs are opening new salons or businesses.<br />
After all, those sitting in the chair demand to be more than just satisfied.<br />
Clients today want to be wowed and everyone in the hair industry seems<br />
determined to succeed in doing so. That’s why this fall edition of<br />
Estetica<strong>USA</strong> presents so many features. Like others in the industry, at the<br />
cost of sleeping very little, we are determined to cover what is happening<br />
in this wonderful world of creatives, technicians, entrepreneurs, and<br />
businesses who apparently need very little sleep. Feel free to count on<br />
Estetica as your one-stop, worldwide publication to help you keep up with<br />
the latest trends, products, tools, events, and news!<br />
05E
SAVE THE DATE<br />
SEPT 9-11 <strong>2023</strong><br />
PRESENTS<br />
HAIRWORLD<br />
WORLD CUP<br />
SEPT. 9-11 PARIS <strong>2023</strong><br />
OMC PLATINUM SPONSORS<br />
www.omchairworld.com<br />
HAIRWORLD<br />
WORLD CUP
In this issue:<br />
HAIR editorial Keeping up... In an industry that never sleeps! 05<br />
<strong>ESTETICA</strong><br />
THE HAIR MAGAZINE<br />
esteticamagazine.com<br />
N. 149<br />
03/<strong>2023</strong><br />
photoshoot Cover story 08<br />
direction Fiery palette 10<br />
collection Digital vintage 18<br />
icon Barbie couture 20<br />
treatments The best you can be 22<br />
Rich Goldwell Topchic Zero<br />
for our Fall cover by:<br />
Hair: Angelo Seminara<br />
Color: Agnes Westerman &<br />
William Wilson<br />
Photo: Ralph Mecke<br />
Make-up: Jochen Pahs<br />
Styling: Ingo Nahrwold<br />
trends The best of international hair looks 25<br />
PRO special scalp care Scalp care advice 74<br />
interview Peter F. Pfister 78<br />
tools Building your toolbox 80<br />
business Taking a leap of faith 82<br />
education A meeting of minds 84<br />
brands Products 86<br />
web choice Tips & trends 88<br />
$<br />
CONTACTS<br />
Nives Carena<br />
Estetica - Via Cavour, 50<br />
10023 Torino (Italy)<br />
nivescarena@estetica.it<br />
Marlena DuRon<br />
1564 Seabridge Lane,<br />
Oxnard, CA 93035 (<strong>USA</strong>)<br />
Tel. + 1 3104153360<br />
marlenaduron@gmail.com<br />
à<br />
SUBSCRIPTIONS<br />
e-mail: customercare@estetica.it<br />
www.esteticamagazine.com<br />
PUBLISHER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR<br />
Roberto Pissimiglia<br />
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF<br />
Marie Scarano - esteticausa@estetica.it<br />
GLOBAL EDITORIAL AMBASSADOR<br />
Sergi Bancells - sergi@esteticamagazine.com<br />
INTERNATIONAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF<br />
Laura Castelli - l.castelli@estetica.it<br />
INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISING COORDINATOR<br />
Monica Tessari - m.tessari@estetica.it<br />
INTERNATIONAL COORDINATOR<br />
Emanuela Vaser - e.vaser@estetica.it<br />
LAYOUT<br />
Manuela Artosi, Davide Cardente<br />
ADVERTISING & P.R.<br />
Nives Carena - nivescarena@estetica.it<br />
ESPAÑA<br />
Elisabet Parra<br />
DEUTSCHE AUSGABE<br />
Michaela Dee<br />
FRANCE<br />
Marie Coccoluto<br />
UK<br />
Gary Kelly<br />
ITALIA<br />
Lucia Preziosi, Glorianna Vaschetto<br />
DIGITAL<br />
Erica Balduini, Giorgia Ludovico,<br />
Stefania Rao
hairmanchette<br />
hairPhotoshoot<br />
COVER<br />
STORY<br />
GOLDWELL INTRODUCES TOPCHIC ZERO: THE MINDFUL<br />
CHOICE TO COLORING HAIR THAT IS ENVIRONMENTALLY<br />
FRIENDLY FROM THE INSIDE OUT.<br />
<strong>USA</strong> EDITION<br />
FIERY PALETTES<br />
Turning up the<br />
heat for this fall<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Scalp care, tools,<br />
and treatments<br />
POP & NOT<br />
From Barbie<br />
to business<br />
Hair: Angelo Seminara<br />
Color: Agnes Westerman & William Wilson<br />
Photo: Ralph Mecke<br />
Make-up: Jochen Pahs<br />
Styling: Ingo Nahrwold<br />
Goldwell, a global leader in hair color<br />
innovation, introduces Topchic Zero, to the<br />
iconic Topchic line of permanent in-salon<br />
color. With this new ammonia-free and<br />
responsibly-developed formula, stylists and<br />
consumers can feel good about superb color<br />
results and more. Developed by color experts<br />
for color experts, Topchic Zero is the highperformance*<br />
responsible color that delivers<br />
natural, reliable grey coverage with 27 versatile<br />
shades that allow the utmost creativity while<br />
keeping hair healthy. Acai Extract helps<br />
prevent hair breakage, while White Tea<br />
Essence intensifies conditioning and natural<br />
moisture. Hair is also protected by patented<br />
IntraLipid and BondPro+ Technology.**<br />
The drain-safe formula is up to 98%<br />
biodegradable*** and packaging consists of up<br />
to 100% responsibly-sourced recycled and<br />
recyclable materials, making Topchic Zero the<br />
responsible choice for salon hair color.<br />
*Based on overall performance (grey coverage, conditioning<br />
and shine) vs leading competitors.<br />
**Included in Goldwell System Developer Lotion.<br />
*** Biodegradable<br />
E06 E08
more<br />
TOPCHIC Zero<br />
Innovative. Powerful, Responsible.<br />
Radiant color without ammonia<br />
Zero compromises... Beautiful resultsmore<br />
09E
hairdirection<br />
Hair: Karla “KC” Witkamp / Colour: Eufora Color<br />
■<br />
FIERY<br />
PALETTE<br />
E10
THIS SEASON<br />
EVOKES A RETURN<br />
TO RUSSET BROWNS,<br />
COPPERS, TITIANS,<br />
AUBURNS AND, OF<br />
COURSE, EVERY<br />
SHADE OF RED!<br />
WE ASKED SOME<br />
TOP INTERNATIONAL<br />
STYLISTS TO<br />
SHOWCASE THEIR<br />
FAVOURITE<br />
AUTUMNAL LOOKS.<br />
Gary Kelly & Marie Scarano<br />
■ DRAMATIC AUTUMNAL BLENDS. “This<br />
year, I envisioned celebrating the autumn<br />
with dramatic face framing highlights of<br />
rich warm bright copper, blended with<br />
unexpected pops of cool rich red<br />
lowlights emerging from mahogany<br />
darkness at the base. A bold colour<br />
statement that can instantly transform a<br />
bikini clad sun goddess into a selfconfident<br />
siren embracing fall fashion.”<br />
Karla “KC” Witkamp (<strong>USA</strong>)<br />
▲ PETAL CHARMS. This beautiful<br />
redhead is from Anne Veck’s recent bridal<br />
collection, Petal Charms. The shoot<br />
features jewelry accessories by her talented<br />
daughter, Chloe. “I designed this<br />
collection because I wanted to create<br />
something for the slightly more rock ‘n’<br />
roll, alternative bride, who still wanted<br />
those elegant traditional vibes.”<br />
Anne Veck for Anne Veck Education<br />
(UK)<br />
◆ COLOUR CONFIDENCE. “Drawing<br />
inspiration from the vibrant Y2K trend,<br />
we’re excited to explore even more<br />
thrilling <strong>2023</strong> ideas. Using GOLDWELL<br />
Color Topchic, we’ve created four unique<br />
looks, each with its own style. With<br />
vibrant colors, layers, and curls, hair<br />
embodies each look’s personality. ”<br />
Vanness, Ivan, Aris, Mila @ In Percent<br />
Hair Salon (TAIWAN)<br />
● DIMENSIONAL CURLS. “I especially love<br />
red hair paired with curls – I love the<br />
contrast of the two together - the<br />
dimensional curls and the bold red hair<br />
hue that allows the hair look to further<br />
stand out and make a statement. For this<br />
look I paired the gorgeous bold hair color<br />
with simple styling and enhanced the hair<br />
curls to ensure all eyes really are on the<br />
hair. This fiery orange/red shade is one of<br />
my favorites. The beauty of red hair is that<br />
there’s a tone to suit everyone’s skin tone<br />
and personality.” Suzie McGill, Artistic<br />
Director at Rainbow Room<br />
International (UK)<br />
▲<br />
Hair: Anne Veck for Anne Veck Education / Photo: Joel O’Neil / Make-up: Scarlette<br />
Cedano / Stylist/Jewellery Designer: Chloe Mellen for Dirty French Girl Bijoux<br />
Hair: Vanness, Ivan, Aris, Mila @ IN PERCENT HAIR SALON / Make-up: @yafan888 / Clothes /<br />
Styling: Blanc @blancyuan<br />
Hair: Rainbow Room International Uddingston / Photo: Laurence Conway / Styling:<br />
Rainbow Room International Uddingston<br />
◆<br />
●<br />
11E
hairdirection<br />
■<br />
Hair: George Blanco @GeorgeeBlancoo, PRAVANA Senior Artistic Educator (<strong>USA</strong>)<br />
Hair: Melissa Timperley / Photo: Michael Young / Make-up: Faye HJ Cumberbatch<br />
Stylist: Rubina Vita Marchiori<br />
■ COLOR MAGIC. “Despite being an<br />
adult, I still believe that magic is real.<br />
I sometimes feel that in my own way,<br />
I still perform my own special kind of<br />
magic! I do the by transforming my<br />
clients and crafting up ‘potions’ that can<br />
physically alter their appearance before<br />
their very eyes. On this occasion, fiery<br />
red passion magically fills my heart and<br />
always shines bright!” George Blanco<br />
(<strong>USA</strong>)<br />
▲ DESERT HUES. “Inspired by the<br />
scorching beauty of the Kalahari desert,<br />
this image encapsulates the allure of<br />
white sands, burnt ember hues, and deep<br />
red sunsets swirling together like a<br />
sandstorm of warmth. The beautifully<br />
soft yet meticulous haircut frames the<br />
face perfectly and still lets the gorgeous<br />
color do all the talking.” Melissa<br />
Timperley, owner of Melissa<br />
Timperley Manchester (UK)<br />
◆ COMPLEMENTARY COPPER. “The<br />
‘before’ image was of hair which was<br />
slightly faded and dull. When my client<br />
came to see me for her appointment, I<br />
chose a complementary shade of copper<br />
that brought out the vibrancy and<br />
uniqueness of her overall look. Copper<br />
hair can be inspired by the beautiful<br />
hues of autumn leaves and sunsets.”<br />
Stephanie Brown (<strong>USA</strong>)<br />
Colour: Stephanie Brown @stephaniebcolor / Cut & Style: Ryan<br />
Austin @ryanaustinhair<br />
◆<br />
▲<br />
● COLOR FLUIDITY. “I wanted the color<br />
palette to feel like an illumination of<br />
shimmering and matte tones. Flickery<br />
pops of papaya, champagne, peach,<br />
spice, and burnt sienna create a fluid yet<br />
contrasting color scheme. This combo<br />
was strategically placed to enhance the<br />
textured feel of this haircut.” Manda<br />
Ziegelman, Sam Villa Ambassador<br />
(<strong>USA</strong>)
Hair: Manda Ziegelman, Sam Villa Ambassador / Model: Julia Railey / Creative Director: Teresa Romero / Photo: Nico Nordström/Obsidian and Blush / Make-: Letica Tapia and Delia Deleon / Wardrobe: Michi Lafary/Obsidian and Blush<br />
●<br />
13E
hairdirection<br />
Hair: ROAR Hair & Beauty Team / Make-up: Amy Hendry Hughes / Photo: Aga Urbansk<br />
●
● 1970S INSPIRED. “For this hair look<br />
I took inspiration from 70s trends and<br />
paired 70s inspired shapes and styling<br />
with modern but nostalgic hair color.<br />
I wanted to infuse two red shades in this<br />
look - a gorgeous bold copper and a<br />
darker, more crimson red. By placing<br />
the lighter color on top of the darker<br />
to give it a multi-tonal appearance,<br />
added definition and a more vibrant<br />
and interesting finish.” Brian Leo<br />
McCallum, Owner of ROAR Hair<br />
& Beauty Salons (UK)<br />
■ SNAKE MOTIF. “Inspiration for this<br />
snake look came from traditional<br />
tattooing. I wanted something bold,<br />
but that would also flow with the shape<br />
of the head. I used Wella Blondor for<br />
lift, then red by Color Fresh Create,<br />
which was perfect for this look.<br />
Jess Switzer (<strong>USA</strong>)<br />
▲ AUBURN MYSTIQUE. I find the beauty of<br />
redheads truly captivating.<br />
Their unique looks possess a natural<br />
allure that sets them apart. There is an<br />
undeniable mystique surrounding<br />
redheads, evoking a sense of individuality,<br />
confidence, and timeless beauty that<br />
continues to fascinate regardless of the<br />
trends. For this image I used RP Nutri<br />
filter copper to enhance the vibrancy<br />
and shine and get the hair ready for a<br />
killer shot! Danilo Giangreco, Danilo<br />
Giangreco Salon (UK)<br />
◆ RED NUANCES. “Red hair is back and in<br />
a very big way and I love the richness and<br />
shine that is reflected in all sorts of red<br />
tones. The shape of the haircut is a<br />
double cut working with blunt fringe,<br />
and a blunt border underlining, the<br />
cheekbones, and the length of carving<br />
around the neck, almost like a military<br />
helmet. The nuances of color we have<br />
chosen are of Tudor red, Regal, bold and<br />
vibrant, with a dusty, chalky finish.”<br />
Leonardo Rizzo, Sanrizz (UK)<br />
Hair: Danilo Giangreco / Photo: Jack Eames / Make-up: Megumi Matsuno Hair: Jess Switzer @theharlotsalon / Photo: Nick Berardi / Make-up: Nicole Servin / Model: Reanna Aliza<br />
■<br />
▲<br />
◆<br />
Hair: Leonardo Rizzo @ Sanrizz / Photo: Andres Reynaga / Make-up: John Christopher / Styling: Darren Knight<br />
15E
WELLA<br />
COLOR<br />
BLOCKING<br />
with<br />
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ADD SHINE AND TONE IN JUST 5 MINUTES<br />
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010/0 010/6 010/8<br />
SCAN FOR<br />
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THAT LAST UP TO 8 WEEKS *<br />
1<br />
3<br />
NEW<br />
44/02 4/82 5/82<br />
SCAN FOR<br />
EDUCATION<br />
*PROVIDED HAIR IS WASHED 3X/WEEK, INSTRUMENTAL TESTING<br />
1<br />
DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED FOR SKIN IRRITATION – AN ALLERGIC REACTION MAY<br />
STILL OCCUR – ALWAYS PERFORM AN ALLERGY ALERT TEST 2 EXCLUDING SPECIAL BLONDE<br />
3<br />
WELLA COMPANY IS A MEMBER OF THE INTERNATIONAL COLLABORATION ON COSMETICS SAFETY
haircollection<br />
DIGITAL<br />
VINTAGE<br />
HAIRSTYLIST MONTSE MORELLA TOGETHER WITH PHOTOGRAPHER<br />
& DIGITAL CREATOR, DAVID ARNAL, PRESENT A FABULOUS<br />
VINTAGE-INSPIRED COLLECTION USING ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE.<br />
Sergi Bancells<br />
MONTSE MORELLA’S, innovative<br />
‘Bit’ collection takes us back to<br />
the black & white films of the Golden<br />
Age of cinema, when women were<br />
portrayed either as the victim or the<br />
femme-fatale. Here, however, the rules<br />
are changed, as protagonists are<br />
empowered thanks to impactful<br />
close-ups and rebellious expressions.<br />
Direct and confident, this is how<br />
women are interpreted in ‘Bit’ - a<br />
utopian vision made possible by<br />
Artificial Intelligence together with<br />
the talents of the well-known photog<br />
and digital creator, David Arnal. Each<br />
protagonist’s total look makes a<br />
massive impact in everything from the<br />
attitude to the clothes design, through<br />
to the exquisite hairstyles. Perfectly<br />
defined hair evokes classic hairdressing<br />
techniques – curls, waves, ringlets,<br />
backcombing and bouffants – each<br />
resulting in a truly sublime finished<br />
look.<br />
video<br />
video<br />
Scan the QR Code<br />
to experience the<br />
complete collection!<br />
E18
19E
hairicon<br />
BARBIE<br />
COUTURE<br />
WORLD FAMOUS FASHION DOLL BARBIE COULD BE GIRLIE,<br />
GEEKY, GORGEOUS, AND MORE – BUT SHE COULD ALSO BE A HAUTE<br />
COUTURE FASHIONISTA!<br />
Marie Scarano<br />
BARBIE is often associated with<br />
her bubble-gum pink wardrobe,<br />
Dream House, and sporty convertible.<br />
But during her long career she<br />
became much more sophisticated,<br />
even collaborating with top hautecouture<br />
designers. Now, over 60<br />
years later, Mattel’s Barbie has<br />
empowered girls to imagine<br />
themselves in aspirational roles,<br />
ranging from a princess to president.<br />
1967 saw the launch of the first<br />
celebrity Barbie doll based on the<br />
British fashion model Twiggy,<br />
sporting a pixie hairstyle and a yellow,<br />
green, and blue vertical-striped mini<br />
dress and yellow boots. This was just<br />
the beginning! Oscar de la Renta<br />
was next on board in 1985. As of<br />
today, Barbie has collaborated with<br />
such designers as Bob Mackie,<br />
Karl Lagerfeld, Bill Blass, Giorgio<br />
Armani, Versace, Ralph Lauren and<br />
so many more!<br />
Find out more about<br />
Barbie and her long<br />
career by using the<br />
QR Code below.<br />
more<br />
more<br />
E20
All photos courtesy of Mattel, Inc.<br />
21E
hairtreatments<br />
THE BEST<br />
YOU CAN BE<br />
YOU THINK YOU LOOK GOOD NOW?<br />
WAIT TO SEE WHAT THESE<br />
TREATMENTS CAN DO FOR YOU!<br />
Marie Scarano<br />
YOU’VE GOT A GREAT CUT AND COLOR. . .<br />
Yet somehow something is just a little off, a little dull, a little<br />
frizzy. What’s a girl (or guy!) to do? Well actually, today<br />
there are solutions to help you add some oomph to your<br />
near-perfect look. There are color glazes, curl definers, and<br />
smoothing treatments, depending on what kind of texture<br />
and nuance you’re seeking. For example, the “glazed donut”<br />
trend has been taking the beauty world by storm- and<br />
“glazed donut hair” is the next iteration with 10M TikTok<br />
searches. Wella Professionals Brand Ambassador Dereq<br />
Clark recommends Wella Professionals’ Shinefinity Color<br />
Glaze to keep hair irresistibly smooth and feeling silky. IGK<br />
Hair co-founder and celebrity hairstylist, Aaron Grenia<br />
observes, “Depending on where you live, as well as that<br />
location’s humidity level, there are keratin and non-keratin<br />
smoothing treatments that are popular for those who want<br />
to air dry and keep some of their wave or curl, but mainly<br />
want to defrizz.” For curls and waves, there are now in-salon<br />
treatments that help to smooth without straightening.<br />
These are great for getting more definition - which also<br />
enhances your color nuances - and less frizz in any weather.<br />
As always, just ask your hairdresser!<br />
more<br />
more<br />
Scan here to find<br />
our more about specific<br />
in-salon treatments<br />
available.<br />
E22
Wella Professionals<br />
Curlisto<br />
Wella Professionals Wella Professionals<br />
23E
NEW IN 2024!<br />
THE B2B GATEWAY TO THE LATIN<br />
AMERICAN BEAUTY MARKETS<br />
MIAMI<br />
MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER<br />
JANUARY 23 – 25, 2024<br />
LEARN MORE<br />
SALES OFFICE THE AMERICAS<br />
<strong>USA</strong> Beauty LLC<br />
Orlando, FL, <strong>USA</strong><br />
P +1 800 335 7469<br />
cosmoprofsales@informa.com<br />
SALES OFFICE AFRICA, EUROPE,<br />
ISRAEL, LEBANON, TURKEY<br />
BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a.<br />
Milan, Italy<br />
P +39 02 796 420<br />
F +39 02 795 036<br />
international@cosmoprof.it<br />
SALES OFFICE ASIA, OCEANIA<br />
Cosmoprof Asia LTD<br />
Hong Kong<br />
P +852 3709 4988<br />
cosmoprofasia-hk@informa.com<br />
SALES OFFICE INDIA<br />
Cosmoprof India LTD<br />
Mumbai, India<br />
P +91 98 3389 8098<br />
F +91 22 6172 7273<br />
cosmoprof-india@informa.com<br />
ORGANIZER – <strong>USA</strong> BEAUTY LLC<br />
A NEW WORLD FOR BEAUTY BOLOGNA, HONG KONG, LAS VEGAS, MUMBAI, BANGKOK, MIAMI
HAIR<br />
TRENDS >>><br />
The best of international hair looks<br />
Il meglio della modacapelli internazionale<br />
Le meilleur des tendances coiffure internationales<br />
Die Top internationalen Hair Looks<br />
Lo mejor de la modacabello internacional
hairtrends<br />
video<br />
video
FORMULA 1 An outstanding compilation in terms of both hair<br />
finish and total look. The F1 Collection by Hooker & Young encapsulates<br />
the autonomous beauty of women, but with a added touch of eclectic individuality.<br />
Discover life in the fast lane!<br />
FORMULA 1 Una compilation d’eccezione in termini di styling e<br />
total look.. La collezione F1 di Hooker & Young racchiude la bellezza fiera<br />
delle donne, ma con un tocco in più di eclettica individualità. Assapora la<br />
vita in corsia di sorpasso!<br />
FORMULA 1 Compilation exceptionnelle en termes de style et de<br />
total look, la collection F1 de Hooker & Young incarne la beauté altière de la<br />
femme, avec une touche supplémentaire d’individualité éclectique. Goûtez<br />
à la vie sur la voie rapide !<br />
FORMEL 1 Absolut herausragend, sowohl was das Haarfinish<br />
als auch den Gesamtlook betrifft. Die F1-Kollektion von Hooker & Young<br />
verkörpert die Schönheit der Frau mit einem Hauch eklektischer Individualität.<br />
Leben auf der Überholspur!<br />
FORMULA 1 Una compilación excepcional en términos de estilo<br />
y apariencia total, la colección F1 de Hooker & Young encarna la orgullosa<br />
belleza de la mujer, pero con un toque extra de individualidad ecléctica.<br />
¡Saborea la vida en el carril rápido!<br />
Hair: Hooker&Young<br />
Photo: Michael Young<br />
Make-up: Kirsten Baillie<br />
Styling: Michael Young<br />
Images: FPA
hairtrends<br />
video<br />
Hair: Eric Zemmour<br />
for L’Oréal Professionnel<br />
Photo: Stéphane Gagnard<br />
Make-up: Angie<br />
Styling: Your’s Monaco<br />
video<br />
ERIC ZEMMOUR
Hair: Javier Ventoso<br />
Photo: Esteban Roca<br />
Make-up: Bea Torres & Odu Martínez<br />
Styling: Julia Asensio & Javier Ventoso
Art Direction: Hermiz Daniel<br />
for Amazing Hair Australia<br />
Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />
Make-up: Kylie O’Toole<br />
Styling: Ariana Mantzaris
hairtrends
URBAN HAIR:<br />
STYLE ON THE STREETS<br />
Urban chic is the last word in streetwise sophistication.<br />
Be yourself and make your mark!<br />
Urban chic è la parola d’ordine nello slang metropolitano.<br />
Sii te stessa e lascia il segno!<br />
Urban chic, un mot d’ordre dans l’argot métropolitain.<br />
Soyez vous-même et laissez votre marque !<br />
Urban Chic ist das Nonplusultra an Streetstyle-Raffinesse.<br />
Sei du selbst und setze ein Zeichen!<br />
Urban chic es la última palabra en sofisticación callejera.<br />
¡Sé tú misma y deja tu huella!<br />
Creative Hair Director: Nadia Ceccarelli<br />
Hairstylist: G. Proietto, F. Scarfalloto, A. Cegliese,<br />
G. Politi, F. Gorgone, S. Leonardi<br />
Photo: Antonio Di Maria and Lorenzo Panebianco<br />
Make-up: Alessia Grasso/Styling: Angela Marcato<br />
Products: Matrix and L’Oréal Professionnel<br />
video<br />
video<br />
URBAN CDB SALON<br />
BY COMPAGNIA DELLA BELLEZZA ACADEMY
hairtrends<br />
Art Direction: Justin Pace<br />
@Co and Pace Salons<br />
Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />
Make-up: Emma Chaisty<br />
Styling: Melissa Nixon
Hair: Geoffrey Tentillier,<br />
Alexandra Dieu@Vog Coiffure<br />
Photo: Weronika Kosinski<br />
Make-up: Martyna Molenda
hairtrends<br />
Art Direction: Justin Pace<br />
@Co and Pace Salons<br />
Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />
Make-up: Emma Chaisty<br />
Styling: Melissa Nixon
Hair & Styling: Alfredo Valero<br />
@Blades Hair Studio<br />
Photo: David Arnal<br />
Make-up: Blades Hair Studio Team
hairtrends
Explore the unique power of hair!<br />
Scopri il potere unico dei capelli!<br />
Découvrez le pouvoir unique de ta chevelure !<br />
Entdecke die einzigartige Macht der Haare!<br />
¡Explora el poder único del cabello!<br />
Hair: Emmanuel Esteban &<br />
Edoardo Colasanti@E’S Project<br />
Photo: William Henry Scott<br />
Make-up: Julia Leshanich<br />
Styling: Lu<br />
Products: Revlon Professional,<br />
Diva Pro Styling
hairtrends<br />
< ><br />
Hair & Colour: Dee Parker<br />
Attwood@Wieselmann Salon<br />
Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />
Make-up: Kylie O’Toole<br />
Styling: Ella Murphy
video<br />
video<br />
DEE PARKER ATTWOOD
hairtrends<br />
Hair:Angela Martin@Pelsynera<br />
Photo: Esteban Roca
Hair: Arjan Bevers@Avanti Kappers<br />
Photo: Ivo de Kok<br />
Make-up: Mireille Bevers Brunt<br />
Styling: Annet Veerbeek<br />
Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
hairtrends<br />
TRINITY HAIRCARE:<br />
THE MODERN MUSE<br />
Dare To Be Yourself - embracing the true power of<br />
individualism and being happy with who you are.<br />
Dare To Be Yourself - abbracciare il potere intimo<br />
dell’individualismo ed essere felici di ciò che si è.<br />
Dare To Be Yourself - embrassez le pouvoir intérieur de<br />
l’individualisme et soyez heureux avec ce que vous êtes.<br />
Dare To Be Yourself – die wahre Kraft des Ichs annehmen<br />
und glücklich sein, so wie man ist.<br />
Dare To Be Yourself: abraza el verdadero poder del<br />
individualismo y ¡sé feliz con quien eres!<br />
Hair: J. Schenke, S. Bolk, A. Verberk<br />
@Trinity European Artistic Team<br />
Photo: Johnny ten Have<br />
Make-up: Tamara Sauer<br />
Styling: Jolanda Schenke<br />
more<br />
more<br />
TRINITY HAIRCARE
hairtrends<br />
Hair: Javier Ventoso<br />
Photo: Esteban Roca<br />
Make-up: Bea Torres<br />
Styling: J. Asensio & J.Ventoso
Hair: Vitali Fischer<br />
Photo: Pavlov Pasha<br />
Make-up: Karina Grigoriants<br />
Styling: Bitte Ruhe
hairtrends<br />
Reflections of personality and mood<br />
Bagliori di personalità e stile<br />
Flashs de personnalité et de style<br />
Reflexion von Persönlichkeit und Stimmung<br />
Reflejos de personalidad y estilo<br />
Art Direction: Eric Zemmour<br />
@Shampoo Expert<br />
Photo: Maciej Swistek<br />
Make-up: Maja Blawuciak<br />
Styling: Nana Chomik
hairtrends<br />
Hair: Geoffrey Tentillier,<br />
Alexandra Dieu@Vog Coiffure<br />
Photo: Weronika Kosinski<br />
Make-up: Martyna Molenda
Art Direction: Fabien Provost<br />
@Jean Louis David<br />
Photo: Matteo Verzini<br />
Make-up: Stephanie Jacquet<br />
Styling: Chloé Para
hairtrends<br />
< ><br />
Art Direction: Fabien Provost<br />
@L’Atelier Intermède<br />
Photo: Kenza Le Bas<br />
Make-up: Odile Jimenez<br />
Styling: Fleur Huynh Evans
hairtrends<br />
< ><br />
Art Direction: Mia Carol<br />
@Carol Bruguera<br />
Hair: N. Codina, S. León,<br />
Q. Martínez, A. Moreno & G. Rivera<br />
Photo: Ivan Raga<br />
Make-up: Aina Aranda<br />
Video: Natx Creacions<br />
Audiovisuals
video<br />
video<br />
CAROL BRUGUERA
hairtrends
PURE VELVET: PERFECT STYLE,<br />
OUTSTANDING FINISH<br />
Perfectly crafted shapes and textures for<br />
an unmistakably beautiful finish<br />
Forme e texture perfettamente lavorate per<br />
un finish di eleganza consapevole<br />
Formes et textures parfaitement travaillées pour<br />
une finition d’une élégance consciente<br />
Perfekte Formen und Texturen für ein<br />
unverwechselbar schönes Finish<br />
Formas y texturas perfectamente elaboradas para<br />
un acabado inconfundiblemente hermoso<br />
Vision Hair Design: Salvo Filetti<br />
Global Creative Team: R. Napoli, A. Reitano, N. Ceccarelli, P. Piscitello, C. Sinopoli<br />
Team Academy: P. Napoli, G. Politi, F. Scarfalloto,<br />
A. Cegliese, S. Leonardi, F. Gorgone<br />
Photo: Antonio Di Maria/Make-up: Alessia Grasso/Styling: Angela Marcato<br />
Products: L’Oréal Professionnel<br />
video<br />
video<br />
COMPAGNIA DELLA BELLEZZA
hairtrends
Hair & Styling: Domi Pinalli<br />
Photo: Bill Tsiknaris<br />
Make-up: Brooke Stanley
hairtrends
Esteban<br />
< ><br />
Hair: X-presion<br />
Production: Live Production + X-presion<br />
Photo: Vishal Baharani<br />
Art & Video: Gumidafe Gutier<br />
Make-up: Yely Rodriguez<br />
Clothing: Leandro Cano<br />
video<br />
video<br />
X-PRESION
hairtrends<br />
Hair & Styling: Alfredo Valero<br />
@Blades Hair Studio<br />
Photo: David Arnal<br />
Make-up: Blades Hair Studio Team
Hair: Kerrie Di Mattia<br />
Photo: Amber Toms<br />
Make-up: Bill Fitzpatrick<br />
Styling: Candice Battersby<br />
Products: Joico,<br />
White Sands Australia
hairtrends<br />
< ><br />
Hair: Manuel Mon<br />
Photo: Bernardo Baragaño<br />
Make-up: María Montes<br />
Styling: Ana González<br />
Products: Revlon Professional
Light & shadow on polished hair<br />
Luci e ombre animano texture lucide<br />
Ombres et lumières illuminent les textures<br />
Spiel aus Licht und Schatten<br />
Juego de luces y sombras
hairtrends<br />
Hair: Geoffrey Tentillier,<br />
Alexandra Dieu@Vog Coiffure<br />
Photo: Weronika Kosinski<br />
Make-up: Martyna Molenda
Art Direction: Justin Pace<br />
@Co and Pace Salons<br />
Photo: Andrew O’Toole<br />
Make-up: Kylie O’Toole<br />
Styling: Lucy Webb
hairtrends<br />
Hair: La Biosthétique
Hair: G. Tentillier, F. Debruxelles,<br />
A. Dieu@Mon Coiffeur Exclusif<br />
Photo: Maciej Swistek<br />
Make-up: Martyna Molenda
hairtrends<br />
Hair: Arjan Bevers@Avanti Kappers<br />
Photo: Ivo de Kok<br />
Make-up: Mireille Bevers Brunt<br />
Styling: Annet Veerbeek<br />
Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
Art Direction: Fabien Provost<br />
@L’Atelier Intermède<br />
Hair: M. Jauneau, A. Pinto &<br />
J. Sureau-Parreiral<br />
Photo: Kenza Le Bas<br />
Make-up: Odile Jimenez<br />
Styling: Fleur Huynh Evans
hairtrends<br />
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prospecial scalp care<br />
SCALP<br />
CARE<br />
Marie Scarano<br />
ADVICE<br />
Recently more attention is being paid to<br />
“cultivating” hair health from the bottom up,<br />
starting at the scalp, where it all begins.<br />
Photo: kei907/stock.adobe.com<br />
E74
When we think of our hair, we tend to think of<br />
cutting, coloring, and styling. Often products<br />
- from shampoo to styling mousse - promise<br />
soft and shiny hair that is touchable. Until<br />
recently, little attention has been paid where<br />
our hair starts to grow: the scalp, the roots<br />
and the follicles. Sure, maybe some concern<br />
about dandruff, but not much else.<br />
YUME<br />
Takara Belmont’s luxury<br />
wash unit makes it possible<br />
to offer extended spa<br />
services for hair treatment<br />
while the customer relaxes<br />
in the lounge chair with<br />
their head ergonomically<br />
supported.<br />
THE “SKINIFICATION” OF THE SCALP<br />
While we often take care of our skin - our faces, hands, body,<br />
even feet - with specific day and night creams, sun screens,<br />
and cleansers, few of us ever took into consideration that,<br />
technically speaking, our scalp is also skin.<br />
“In recent years, it’s become clear that the skin on your scalp<br />
and the skin on your face are susceptible to the same<br />
aggressors. Sun, pollution, heat, and chemical exposure all<br />
play a role in the health of your scalp, and it turns out, your<br />
scalp can age just like the skin on your face. Scalp aging can<br />
lead to follicle damage, dehydration, and an overall less<br />
lustrous hair,” explains Adam Federico, R+Co Vice<br />
President of Technical Education.<br />
“A healthy scalp leads to healthy hair, and this unique skin is<br />
finally getting the attention it deserves,” says Harvard-trained<br />
dermatologist, Dr. Iris Rubin, founder of SEEN. There are<br />
even specific products for any particular issue a client may be<br />
having.<br />
YUME shampooing<br />
75E
prospecial scalp care<br />
COMMON PROBLEMS<br />
The most common scalp problems include<br />
itchy scalp, dry scalp, flaky scalp, and oily<br />
scalp. Then of course there is the question of<br />
hair loss, in both men and women of all ages.<br />
Remember that the scalp has a lower barrier<br />
function, and so is more susceptible to skin<br />
problems as it lacks protection from<br />
environmental agents. It also has more and<br />
larger hair follicles and more sebaceous<br />
glands. When the scalp produces excess<br />
sebum or when too much sebum<br />
accumulates from improper cleansing, it can<br />
clog hair follicles, leading to increased hair<br />
thinning and loss. Another common result of<br />
an imbalanced scalp microbiome is<br />
inflammation. Such factors as poor diet,<br />
medical conditions, and even improper<br />
cleansing habits can trigger this problem,<br />
damaging hair follicles and interfering with<br />
hair growth.<br />
“Even hair care products can contribute to<br />
hair shedding by clogging the hair follicle, or<br />
due to the irritating and allergenic<br />
ingredients they contain. [...] ,” says Dr.<br />
Maryanne Senna, Director, Lahey Hair<br />
Loss Center of Excellence and Research<br />
Unit at Beth Israel Lahey Health. Indeed,<br />
The American Academy of Dermatology<br />
(AAD) states that hair products can cause<br />
acne and breakouts and recommends hair<br />
products that are non-comedogenic (won’t<br />
clog pores). There are also seasonal factors<br />
to take into consideration. “Summer<br />
introduces a lot of stressors to the hair and<br />
scalp: increased sun exposure, which leads<br />
to UV damage, dehydration, flaking and<br />
irritation,” says Adam Federico. “So focus<br />
on recovery so your scalp can prepare itself<br />
for the winter weather! I recommend using<br />
Crystal Halo Balancing Scalp Scrub +<br />
Shampoo once weekly and implementing a<br />
mask, too, like the R+Co BLEU Sleep<br />
Masque Night Repair Serum.<br />
HEAD MASSAGES HELP<br />
Like for our body, massages can improve circulation and reduce<br />
stress, both of which are important for a healthy scalp. Nioxin<br />
ultimate power serum with Sandalore and Caffeine is a<br />
leave-on scalp treatment, clinically proven to thicken hair from<br />
the first use and increase hair anchorage with visible results in<br />
only 8 weeks. Joon Sumac Scrub and Saffron Hair Elixir Oil<br />
are also perfect for anyone seeking to enhance hair and scalp<br />
health. The revitalizing formula is safe for all hair types,including<br />
extensions, chemically-treated hair, colored hair, and keratin.<br />
Joon Hair Oil<br />
E76
Scalp care is an<br />
important first step to<br />
guarantee hair health<br />
and beauty<br />
SCRUBS, SERUMS, BOTANICALS<br />
The skin’s microbiome is the sum of all the<br />
micro-organisms, including bacteria, viruses<br />
and fungi, that inhabit the scalp and the rest<br />
of the human body. When microbiomes are<br />
in a balanced state, skin and scalp are both<br />
healthy. When the microbiomes are in an<br />
unbalanced environment, scalp concerns<br />
such as dandruff, itchiness, dryness and<br />
even hair loss can occur. With this<br />
knowledge in mind, Schwarzkopf<br />
Professional Scalp Clinix helps to<br />
support the scalp’s microbiome balance with<br />
a fully customisable regime that can cater<br />
all different scalp needs.<br />
When it comes to hair loss, there are also<br />
products that help to improve appearance<br />
and increase the appearance of hair density.<br />
For example, Vegamour GRO Hair Serum<br />
uses a combination of clinically-tested,<br />
vegan phyto-actives that work in tandem to<br />
help support a healthy and balanced<br />
follicular ecosystem while soothing the<br />
scalp and revitalizing hair roots. Men can try<br />
Hair Prescriptives® Men’s Hair Care<br />
System with the Ekakshi Oil Complex® that<br />
nourishes and strengthens the follicle at the<br />
core, giving the hair cortex and cuticles<br />
optimum vitality, elasticity, and durability.<br />
Perfect for salon add-on services and home<br />
follow-up!<br />
77E
prointerview<br />
PETER F.<br />
PFISTER:<br />
Intercoiffure Mondial represents<br />
hairstylists who live and breathe<br />
authenticity, identity, international flair<br />
and individuality. 42 nations have<br />
committed to the same values and<br />
created regional structures around the<br />
international exchange between Europe,<br />
Asia, North & Latin America, Nordic and<br />
Oceania. The future of beauty, fashion<br />
and hairstyling is in diversity.<br />
You have been President of<br />
Intercoiffure Mondial for 2 years<br />
now. What legacy was passed down<br />
to you from its long and prestigious<br />
story?<br />
PRESIDENT OF INTERCOIFFURE MONDIAL<br />
Estetica’s International<br />
Publisher, Roberto Pissimiglia,<br />
in an exclusive interview<br />
with Intercoiffure Mondial<br />
President, Mr. Peter F. Pfister,<br />
at the Intercoiffure<br />
Mondial Annual Event in<br />
Saint-Tropez during the first<br />
weekend of July.<br />
Intercoiffure Mondial<br />
approaches its 100th<br />
anniversary in the safe<br />
hands of President Mr.<br />
Peter F. Pfister and his<br />
outstanding team.<br />
Having been a member for 39 years, I<br />
was already aware of how creatively<br />
inspirational Intercoiffure Mondial is and<br />
how inclusive it is of hairdressers from all<br />
over the world. I would say its enduring<br />
E78
legacy since its foundation in 1925 is the<br />
way it can overcome difficulties in a spirit<br />
of togetherness. This is especially true in<br />
testing times such as those we’re living<br />
through at the moment and we’ve<br />
endured during recent years.<br />
Tell us something about Intercoiffure<br />
Mondial as it stands today.<br />
We have nearly 2,000 members across<br />
the world. We lost a few during the<br />
pandemic, but they are now re-joining.<br />
We are also seeing some new countries<br />
joining, such as Peru and Vietnam. We<br />
now count 42 countries in total. To<br />
support me in my role as President, I have<br />
a 3 excellent Vice-Presidents: Junji<br />
Yamano, Frank Gambuzza and Markus<br />
Herrmann, plus an outstanding team of<br />
professionals supporting us.<br />
What would you say to someone who<br />
wants to join Intercoiffure Mondial?<br />
I would say that although we’re not<br />
essential to the current success of your<br />
actual business, an organization like ours<br />
provides you with a window on what’s<br />
happening in the hairdressing world on a<br />
global scale, at the highest level. It also<br />
helps put you on the map internationally,<br />
opening up opportunities to network and<br />
exchange views and ideas with<br />
likeminded professionals.<br />
Training and education are also<br />
continuing to grow in importance as<br />
an aspect of the organization...<br />
Yes definitely. I helped launch our<br />
Intercoiffure WorldAcademy 7 years ago,<br />
before I became President. This was to<br />
provide educational opportunities to our<br />
members. Nowadays, we not only have<br />
some of the best trainers in the world,<br />
but I believe we have more of the best<br />
than anyone else. We also have an<br />
outstanding online program of<br />
educational seminars, which we first<br />
launched during lockdown. It now<br />
includes an App, which enables students<br />
to engage directly with trainers and<br />
provide their own feedback.<br />
Thinking to the future and leading up<br />
to your centennial celebrations in<br />
2025, what events are you planning<br />
over the next 2 years?<br />
Well, it’s all beginning this weekend at<br />
Intercoiffure Mondial Annual Event here<br />
in Saint-Tropez. We’re now working on<br />
The next 2 Congresses are in Barcelona<br />
(Spain) in 2024 and Hamburg (Germany)<br />
in the 2025 centennial year. Below: Peter<br />
F. Pfister with Estetica Publisher,<br />
Roberto Pissimiglia (right).<br />
several important events around the<br />
world, including next year’s Intercoiffure<br />
Mondial Annual Event, which is to be<br />
held in Barcelona, Spain on 25 – 26 May<br />
2024. Then, in 2025, we’ll hold our 100<br />
years’ World Congress event in Hamburg,<br />
Germany.<br />
What is your big dream for Hamburg?<br />
I think the dream is to have a full house,<br />
which would be 1,300 – 1,400 attendees!<br />
This would be a record for us, but as<br />
more and more new members are joining,<br />
I feel it’s possible. The reason we’re in<br />
Hamburg is because it’s our founding city.<br />
We’ll be in the superb Elbphilharmonie<br />
Concert Hall, a truly wonderful venue<br />
where there’ll be a program of<br />
outstanding hair shows.<br />
Scan the QR Code to<br />
read our full interview with Mr.<br />
Peter F. Pfister<br />
more<br />
more<br />
79E
protools<br />
Building<br />
your<br />
In the beauty industry there is now a<br />
plethora of tools to choose from, but<br />
choosing the best one for you and your<br />
clients is a decision not to be taken<br />
lightly. There are several factors to take<br />
into consideration before investing in<br />
that tools that can enable you to make<br />
that quantum leap in your own results.<br />
“A good tool improves the way you work. A great<br />
tool improves the way you think,” said Jeff<br />
Duntemann. This is especially true in hairdressing.<br />
Toolbox<br />
Marie Scarano<br />
Marie Scarano<br />
E80
Denman<br />
HI-TECH TOOLS<br />
A hairdresser will always start with basic good-quality combs<br />
and brushes. But when it comes to hot styling tools – like<br />
blow-dryers, styling irons and wands – there are now some<br />
incrediblly “smart” options available, thanks to advances in<br />
digital and electronic technologies. For example, the ghd<br />
unplugged pink limited edition styler features a unique<br />
combination of bespoke Dual-zone heaters with advanced<br />
lithium batteries ensuring up to 20 minutes of continuous<br />
performance at the consistent temperature of 365°F. While<br />
many devices now have automatic shut-offs to help save<br />
energy, there are others, like the T3 Curlwrap that can even<br />
give Sensory Feedback to guide your styling with gentle<br />
sounds and vibrations. Last use memory retention maintains<br />
your favorite settings between one client and another on the<br />
new O2AMP Hypersonic Hairdryer. There is even an<br />
auto-reverse self-cleaning filter to keep it working optimally.<br />
Another option are ionising hairdryers that can also help keep<br />
hair healthy. When these negative ions hit your hair, any water<br />
molecules are broken down into smaller particles and<br />
distribute evenly through the hair to coat each follicle,<br />
shortening drying time by half. An ionic hair dryer will calm<br />
frizz and promote lasting shine and offer the softest texture by<br />
sealing strands.<br />
Investing in quality<br />
tools means investing<br />
in yourself.<br />
MATERIALS AND STYLE<br />
Incredible progress has also been made in materials<br />
engineering. In hairdressing, this means mostly hi-tech<br />
ceramic materials that are used for the plates in styling irons.<br />
Ceramic heater technology ensures even heat, free of hot<br />
spots, for one-pass styling and lasting results. Many tools are<br />
now also available in a variety of colors to add pizzazz to your<br />
salon decor. Most of all, never neglect your own comfort while<br />
working long hours behind the chair. A good tool has taken<br />
ergonomics into consideration, like weight and manageability,<br />
including cordless options to keep you moving freely.<br />
ghd<br />
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Find the tools<br />
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00E
probusiness<br />
Taking<br />
a<br />
leap of faith<br />
Marie Scarano<br />
more<br />
more<br />
It took lots of planning, number-crunching and work to open<br />
the spiffy new Kismet Collective. Estetica asked the<br />
owners about the priorities established and challenges faced.<br />
THE KISMET COLLECTIVE was as sassy and<br />
spirited and the three owners: Roxanne<br />
Schreiber, Nicoletta Gauci, and Daisy Quimby.<br />
“Once upon a time Roxanne, Daisy<br />
and Nicoletta found themselves<br />
working together at a salon in<br />
Burbank, CA. But at a certain point all<br />
three agreed that they should set out<br />
on an adventure all their own. And so<br />
they did!” The story of the “Kismet<br />
Collective” should start like this because it<br />
really does sound a lot like a fairy tale!<br />
And just to switch things up a bit, there<br />
was even a Fairy Godfather who helped<br />
them to work the magic that would<br />
become a bright and spiffy salon all on a<br />
very tight budget and a dream!<br />
Estetica asked these three entrepreneurs<br />
about their objectives, the priorities they<br />
established, and the challenges they found<br />
themselves facing. Theoreticals first! What<br />
kind of business model would suit their<br />
vision? They opted for a collective, to avoid<br />
the traditional pyramid system.<br />
E82
“We wanted everyone to be on an even playing field. When everyone<br />
has a common invested interest, they put in more effort,” explained<br />
Nicoletta. “Their level of commitment establishes their ‘voting<br />
power’ at the salon quarterly meetings. When someone has a great<br />
idea it’s never a hard ‘no’, but instead a ‘lets bring it to the team’.”<br />
INSPIRATION ON A BUDGET<br />
Choosing the location was the easiest, as they already had an<br />
established clientele in the area, but they wanted curb appeal<br />
and something ever-so-slightly upscale. But because their LLC<br />
was brand new with no credit, it was unlikely that start ups<br />
could find financing. So they had to work with their existing<br />
budget for the build out: $30,000 including all equipment and<br />
furniture. “The challenge was that most of our inspo was<br />
insanely out of our budget, also because priority had to be<br />
given to plumbing, the electric system and lighting, and<br />
equipment (in that order). So we had to get resourceful,” she<br />
recalls. Initial inspiration stemmed from organic shaped wavy<br />
mirrors at each work station. Another certainty was a neutral<br />
palette - no black! Then it was a whirlwind of Pinterest posts<br />
and messages referencing Bergdorfs, Niemans, Saks Kids,<br />
Homary for chairs, mats, shelves, colors, sinks, stools, etc., not<br />
to mention hunting on apps and sites like OfferUp, Craigslist<br />
and Facebook Marketplace Everything had to have a touch of<br />
retro, a touch of class, and alot of functionality.<br />
Co-owner Roxanne Schreiber’s dad and retired set-designer,<br />
Richard, morphed into their Fairy Godfather, fielding all their<br />
ideas and setting out an organic plan that would meet their<br />
1-month turn-around time to stay within their budget. “He<br />
collaborated with Jamieson Winans at Global Entertainment<br />
Enterprises and together they created all of the amazing details<br />
you see at Kismet: from our drip shelves to our arched holographic<br />
doorways. He even upcycled our second-hand finds like the<br />
salvaged yellow entertainment center that became our color<br />
bar,” Nicoletta explains. Moreover, their tight budget also<br />
resulted in the salon being as sustainable as possible, thanks to<br />
the use of second-hand items or materials<br />
salvaged from the set design shop. Anything<br />
that had to be disposed of was done so<br />
through our local buy-nothing groups where<br />
people needed items for their own projects<br />
(including all of our many, many boxes) or was<br />
recycled. Today, Kismet is a place where art<br />
& heart became a successful salon business.<br />
“Using any and all resources, 3 spunky<br />
partners built Kismet with zero funding<br />
and on a one-month deadline.”<br />
83E
proeducation<br />
A MEETING<br />
OF<br />
MINDS<br />
When I saw Michael Haase's posts on<br />
Facebook, I new immediately that this<br />
would be a great story. Estetica has often<br />
featured Michael's spectacular work in<br />
our magazine. When we talked Michael<br />
said, "After half a century in hairdressing,<br />
of creating, participating and sharing my<br />
craft there is always something exciting<br />
Nicholas French and Michael Haase show how even<br />
two masters are always eager to learn something new.<br />
Take some cues from these two forever-young icons!<br />
Marie Scarano<br />
about travel, publishing, designing and, of<br />
course, pushing my curve in learning".<br />
Nicholas French needs no introduction.<br />
His brilliant career in hairdressing and of<br />
course his father's amazing contributions<br />
to the industry have confirmd that hairdressing<br />
is in his DNA, making him a true<br />
icon. "Nicholas and I would on occasion<br />
After their mutual<br />
mentoring experience,<br />
French and Haase are<br />
hoping to work together<br />
to develop a Masterclass<br />
in Los Angeles<br />
E84
give each other a nod at shows and events, so when I called him<br />
he seemed quite surprised that I was interested in taking his<br />
class," recalls Michael. "Instead, I find the industry lacking in<br />
hairdressers who research the history and works of the great<br />
ones who made hairdressing an art. In fact, we started out by<br />
bonding, discussing the past, the present, and of course the future<br />
beyond spending the days creating."<br />
Nicholas commented, "Of course Michael Haase's reputation<br />
precedes him as a great Visionary and Educator. I had always<br />
found his work very forward thinking. He was always seeking<br />
something that would stand alone and be original, which is what<br />
I've always believed in."<br />
MUTUAL ADMIRATION ASIDE...<br />
After breaking the ice, the two quickly ended up sharing stories<br />
and laughing about who they knew back in the day and how cool<br />
the craft is in general. But then it was time to create. As they<br />
started, they found many similarities on their vision of where to<br />
begin and evolve through the days ahead of them. Nicholas<br />
would show Michael a technique and then Michael would reciprocate<br />
by sharing his own version. And it was off to the races!<br />
"I could tell I was not the only one learning and we fed so well off<br />
each other," recalls Michael.<br />
Nicholas went into more detail, saying, "We had had a long<br />
conversation on the phone to understand the sensibility of what<br />
Michael was looking for. So we worked on different textures,<br />
different foundations and different silhouettes." The two set out<br />
to use different foundations, such as acetate, a combination of<br />
hand-laid hair, which creates a translucence and the ability to<br />
design out-of-this-world Avant Garde hair. "We also utilized a<br />
technique that was inspired by a carpet sample board using<br />
electric clippers to create different shapes and textures from<br />
synthetic hair, " Michael continued.<br />
"I don’t know any great artist who doesn’t have a collection of<br />
materials for the creative process in their basement, bat cave,<br />
or –in my case– I call it the dungeon, to<br />
expose art created in secret at a later date,<br />
an object of beauty," laughed Michael.<br />
"Working with the hair as fabric, we<br />
shared the world of balance and design,<br />
angles and shape. Then we decided how<br />
to shoot it and color it. It just kept evolving.<br />
It was easy to see we were both very excited<br />
to share these moments as artists."<br />
LIVING FOR LEARNING<br />
Both Nicholas and Michael agree that finding a mentor is the only<br />
way to truly hone your craft, be it cutting, color, styling, the world<br />
of competition or anything else. There is no substitute for working<br />
one-on-one with an artist who has seen it all, done it all and<br />
continues the search for the perfect shape and truly change.<br />
Michael observes, "Sadly, the craft is at a place where mentorship<br />
seems to be a thing of the past. The pleasure of both of us<br />
being mentors and sharing is not as much looked up to today. It<br />
seems that social media ends up<br />
Nicholas and I are<br />
getting up there in age,<br />
but we're nowhere near<br />
done learning!<br />
somehow shelving real education for<br />
that 10 second chance to be famous on<br />
the small screen." Nicholas concluded,<br />
"I have always had a very open mind<br />
and a freestyle method of teaching.<br />
Working with such a talented stylist as<br />
Michael one can create ideas together<br />
and develop original concepts."<br />
85E
probrands<br />
Here are just some of the latest highperformance<br />
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your scalp and hair healthy and happy.<br />
1. JOON<br />
The Saffron Rose Shampoo and Conditioner<br />
combine modern chemistry and Persian beauty<br />
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2. NIOXIN<br />
Ultimate Power Serum’s scent of Sandalore,<br />
in combination with caffeine, lauric acid, and<br />
niacinamide, results in a A leave-on scalp<br />
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anchorage.<br />
3. TAKARA BELMONT<br />
Yume can transform your shampoo bowl into<br />
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4. HAIR PRESCRIPTIVES<br />
Hair Prescriptives® Men’s Hair Care System<br />
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5. WELLA PROFESSIONALS<br />
SHINEFINITY Color Glaze is a zero lift, zero<br />
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6. KERATIN COMPLEX<br />
KCEXPRESS Blowout is the new name for the<br />
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7. R+CO BLEU<br />
This Sleep Mask Night Repair Serum is a<br />
luxurious overnight serum repairs parched,<br />
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8. LEAF&FLOWER<br />
CBD Pro Curl Defining Treatment is an insalon<br />
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Recommended by<br />
GHD’S TAKE CONTROL NOW<br />
CAMPAIGN<br />
ghd’s Take Control Now Campaign<br />
celebrates 20 years of<br />
supporting breast cancer charities.<br />
The company’s annual pink<br />
campaign has raised more than<br />
$23M for breast cancer charities<br />
and is coming on strong this<br />
year for Breast Cancer Awareness<br />
Month.<br />
9. IGK<br />
Extra Extra Biotin Gummies are vegan, hairboosting<br />
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10. CURLISTO<br />
Here is a complete line of care and styling<br />
products for all kinds of curly hair, from coils<br />
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Shampoo and Conditioner and choose the<br />
styling products that best suit your needs.<br />
11. EUFORA<br />
Triple Bond Repair treats, repairs, and<br />
strengthens hair after chemical services,<br />
harsh styling, and UV exposure. Quinoa, Pea,<br />
and Vegetable Polypeptide Proteins quickly<br />
penetrate into the hair strand to restore,<br />
replace, & revive broken and damaged bonds.<br />
Scan for more on ghd’s Take<br />
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E86
3<br />
1<br />
2<br />
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7<br />
8<br />
9<br />
10<br />
11<br />
87E
proweb choice<br />
esteticamagazine.us<br />
Tips & trends from the web<br />
We understand! You just can’t get enough news,<br />
trends, and products here in these pages. That’s<br />
why we add easy access to our website, where you<br />
can find more of what you crave!<br />
Marie Scarano<br />
BEAUTY WITH A PURPOSE<br />
A new event that offers<br />
motivation and inspiration<br />
A “Beauty Blueprint for Success” empowering<br />
beauty pros through a day of education.<br />
ECRU AT FASHION WEEK<br />
ECRU NY was the haircare<br />
sponsor of Nolcha Shows.<br />
The original creations were some of the<br />
season’s most wanted hair looks.<br />
E88
GHD & TAKE CONTROL NOW!<br />
20 years of supporting<br />
breast cancer charities.<br />
This year, the ghd Take Control Now Campaign<br />
celebrates 20 years of supporting breast cancer<br />
charities, raising more than $23 million for<br />
breast cancer charities around the world.<br />
SEX, DRUGS, & ROCK’N’ROLL<br />
Marylle Koken and her team<br />
do a “topless” shoot.<br />
Inspired by iconic 1970 rebellious rock stars<br />
like Mick Jagger and Joan Jett, this collection<br />
brings to life retro shags, defined by choppy<br />
ends and flowing textures.<br />
Foto brutte e in bassa risoluzione<br />
ORIBE AT NYFW S/S24<br />
Oribe artists coifed models<br />
for cutting edge designers<br />
The Oribe team flaunted their expert know-how<br />
and originality. All the styles were adapted to<br />
best enhance each model and the mood of<br />
each collection.<br />
NYC ELECTRIC<br />
Nick Pagano’s brilliant new<br />
color trend collection.<br />
NYC Electric is what we at Estetica have<br />
dubbed Nick Pagano’s brilliant new collection,<br />
inspired by the fluorescent colors and<br />
lifestyles of the Big Apple.<br />
89E
probusiness<br />
Focus on Sustainability<br />
with Salon Emotion<br />
L’Oréal Professionnel’s Sustainable Salon Emotion helped get Luke Huffstutter<br />
and his Annastasia Salon in Portland, Oregon on the right track.<br />
When Luke Huffstutter, the owner of<br />
Annastasia Salon in Portland, Oregon,<br />
already a Salon Emotion devotee,<br />
understood very well that the next logical<br />
step would have to be Sustainable Salon<br />
Emotion class to keep his salon on the<br />
track he wanted to take. There would be<br />
costs to face and changes to be made, but<br />
he spent little or no time in cost analyses.<br />
“This is something we have to do both<br />
morally and as expected by our clientele,”<br />
Luke declared.<br />
When it came to making room for sustainability,<br />
in the end it was less complicated<br />
than they might have anticipated. “As I<br />
said before, we had to think through where<br />
our recycling tools could best meet the<br />
needs of our team. So we installed a<br />
recycling center in each of our salons to<br />
best manage all the different items we<br />
want to recycle,” he explains.<br />
Maybe the easiest to organize was the<br />
recycling of plastic, glass, paper, and other<br />
materials. He was relieved to discover that<br />
Portland has an awesome recycling program.<br />
“We have a long outlook<br />
on sustainability.<br />
That means we will<br />
continue to set<br />
goals and improve<br />
as we grow,” says<br />
Luke Huffstutter.<br />
E90
”We are DIYing most things.<br />
After talking with the<br />
L’Oréal Sustainability Team<br />
we realized that a local<br />
solution is always the best.<br />
It reduces shipping items which<br />
has it’s own negative impact.”<br />
“The most important thing<br />
was to think about the staff<br />
work flow so that the right<br />
container is always at their<br />
finger tips,” he said, “For<br />
example, there is a plastic<br />
bin at the color bar and<br />
shampoo back bar, so when<br />
a bottle is empty they don’t have to walk anywhere to get it in<br />
the right spot!” Foils are collected and delivered to a local metal<br />
recycling company along with empty color tubes. Even hair itself<br />
is composted through their regular garbage collection company.<br />
CHALLENGES AND SOLUTIONS<br />
Of course, there had to be some challenges to overcome.<br />
Luckily, none were very serious and the best solutions soon<br />
presented themselves. “We had some challenges in energy<br />
savings because of the buildings we are in. But we gathered<br />
the low hanging fruit so to speak. We updated all our<br />
lightbulbs to low energy LED’s. We insulated walls that had<br />
none. We replaced some windows with high-performance<br />
glass. Thanks to these changes, our energy usage has declined<br />
but not as much as we would like,” admits Luke. But he refuses<br />
to be discouraged. “We have a long outlook on sustainability.<br />
That means we will continue to set goals and improve as we<br />
grow.” One example is their<br />
work with Millard Kwon<br />
Design. “We recently purchased<br />
our 3rd location and are<br />
currently in the design stages<br />
to remodel it. This gives us a<br />
big opportunity to purchase<br />
LEED fixtures and have<br />
sustainability as a core value in designing the next salon. We<br />
keep learning and applying those lessons as we grow.”<br />
Then there were other minor successes that in any case add to<br />
the sum total. For example, using shampoo sprayers that<br />
reduce water consumption. And the enlisting of Ridwell, a<br />
new and growing recycling company that helps with hard to<br />
recycle items like color tube caps, plastic film, batteries, light<br />
bulbs, electronics, clamshell containers, multi-layer plastic<br />
and more. Annastasia also found a priceless ally in Vish to<br />
optimize product usage and reduce waste. “We have seen a<br />
large reduction in color waste since implementing Vish. With<br />
the additional benefit of charging correctly for our color<br />
services, Vish has been a huge win/win.” Keeping a salon<br />
sustainable is an on-going challenge. Luke observes, “In salon<br />
we use our Inovshop monitors to show our commitment, but<br />
we have more work to do.”<br />
91E
probrandnews<br />
America’s<br />
Shining Star<br />
Jalia Pettis is Denman’s Stage Star <strong>USA</strong>. This talented beauty<br />
professional has a brilliant future ahead of her!<br />
Say hello to Arizona based educator, hair professional and<br />
make-up artist Jalia Pettis. Jalia has a string of accolades to<br />
her name including holding the current title of Denman<br />
Stage Star <strong>USA</strong>. Jalia’s win makes her a finalist for the<br />
Global Stage Star title and she will be taking the stage this<br />
October in London, England at Salon International. Jalia<br />
will be repping for the <strong>USA</strong> against<br />
fellow competitors from Japan, France<br />
and the UK.<br />
This multi-talented professional has<br />
strengths in both hair and make-up<br />
and a packed work schedule that spans<br />
film, editorial, television, creative<br />
direction and hair and beauty<br />
education. In addition, she has worked<br />
with a range of clients, from<br />
internationally recognized brands to<br />
musicians, celebrities and athletes. As<br />
an educator, her goal is to equip others<br />
with the tools and self-confidence to<br />
start their industry adventure.<br />
Securing the Denman Stage Star <strong>USA</strong><br />
title, won Jalia tools, opportunities,<br />
education $$$’s and the trip to<br />
London, England to compete for the<br />
global title. If she goes on to win<br />
Denman Global Stage Star <strong>2023</strong> then<br />
Jalia will enjoy an all-expenses paid<br />
professional photographic shoot and<br />
even more travel and opportunities.<br />
Jalia says “I almost talked myself out of applying when I<br />
heard about Stage Star. However, I allowed this to be a leap<br />
of faith, so I did not share with any friends or family that I<br />
even entered. When I was notified that I was a regional<br />
finalist for the <strong>USA</strong> I was elated and I am overjoyed to win<br />
the title for the <strong>USA</strong> and be able to move forward to<br />
showcase my skill as a hair stylist. It is<br />
confirmation that I am where I am<br />
supposed to be in my beauty journey!”<br />
Denman opens their new competition<br />
in Spring 2024.<br />
Follow IG @denmanpro for updates.<br />
Follow @jaliadp to see her Denman<br />
journey.<br />
To shop online go to<br />
www.denmanbrushus.com.<br />
Sign-up for a trade account<br />
for special discounted prices.<br />
E92
probrandnews<br />
James<br />
Earnshaw<br />
more<br />
more<br />
Scan here to read the<br />
full interview with<br />
James Earnshaw<br />
UK-based hair colorist and stylist James Earnshaw has been<br />
appointed Wella Professionals Global Ambassador.<br />
A highly admired and respected name in<br />
our industry, James Earnshaw is already<br />
a multi-award-winning hairdresser. As<br />
Wella Professionals’ Global Ambassador,<br />
he will also work exclusively with the<br />
as well as collaborating closely on core<br />
strategic areas, such as shaping innovation,<br />
new services, and the creation of new<br />
collections, showcasing Wella at global<br />
events and educating hairdressers around<br />
the world.<br />
TEN THINGS YOU NEVER KNEW ABOUT<br />
JAMES EARNSHAW<br />
In an exclusive interview, we asked<br />
James to give us a deeper insight into<br />
his work, career and, of course, his<br />
relationship with Wella Professionals.<br />
1 How my journey with Wella began:<br />
“I started at a salon when I was 15. It<br />
was actually a Wella salon so my first<br />
ever experience with color was using<br />
Wella.”<br />
2 My career mentors and positive<br />
influencers: “There are so many, but<br />
I think for me working with Michelle<br />
Thompson has been amazing. Also,<br />
Renya Xydis from Australia, whom I<br />
recently worked with on the brand new<br />
Wella Color Blocking campaign.”<br />
3 Education and training: “Doing<br />
Wella’s Master Color Expert was really<br />
pivotal to my professional growth. It<br />
helped me grasp such a strong knowledge<br />
of color. It helped make me the colorist I<br />
am and has given me such confidence.”<br />
4 My hero products: “Wella Shinefinity<br />
for sure: with zero lift & zero damage, it<br />
is my most used color product! The two<br />
shades I use the most are 08/98 & 09/05.”<br />
5 Cut, style, or color? “I love it all, I’m<br />
lucky that I do all three so I can really<br />
transform the model I’m working on<br />
from start to finish!”<br />
6 Product innovation, research and<br />
development: “It’s so interesting being<br />
part of this and something that I’m really<br />
looking forward to doing more of. We<br />
look for gaps in the industry and how can<br />
we make hairdressers lives easier.”<br />
7 My stage work: “When I first started<br />
I used to do looks that I thought people<br />
would like. Then, in 2016, I began<br />
doing hair that I wanted and thought<br />
was cool, my career has grown so much<br />
since then. If you stay true to the work<br />
you want to put out there, people can<br />
feel when you genuinely love it.”<br />
8 TrendVision and me: “It really<br />
opened my eyes on how to critique<br />
my work in a brand-new way. If you’re<br />
thinking of doing it, go for it!”<br />
9 Bringing Wella brands to life: I<br />
feel I have a deep understanding of<br />
Wella brands and how to bring its<br />
diverse product range to life. I have<br />
been privileged to educate in the US,<br />
Australia, as well as all over Europe. I have<br />
also worked with Wella on a number of<br />
standout campaigns including KP:ID<br />
and Shinefinity.”<br />
10 When I’m not doing hair: “I used<br />
to be a professional ice skater when I was<br />
younger!”<br />
93E
probrandnews<br />
Boost your client<br />
engagement<br />
With Fresha’s new campaign builder, you can create and launch<br />
end-to-end marketing campaigns from scratch.<br />
Running strong marketing campaigns is essential to keep<br />
clients engaged. Finding easy-to-use tools that help you<br />
achieve that while saving time and money can be a<br />
gamechanger. Introducing: Fresha’s campaign builder, the<br />
latest addition to its suite of marketing tools to help you<br />
effortlessly connect with your clients.<br />
With its simple drag-and-drop system, you can build<br />
content, segment your audience, schedule email sends, and<br />
reach out to your clients via text messages. You’ll be able to<br />
keep your clients up to date on your salon’s latest news and<br />
promotions, and do it all quickly, right from your phone or<br />
tablet.<br />
THE CAMPAIGN<br />
BUILDER INCLUDES:<br />
• an intuitive drag-and-drop<br />
email builder<br />
• a free template gallery<br />
so you can send messages<br />
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• emails and text messages<br />
to maximize how reach<br />
clients<br />
• reporting tools so you can<br />
evaluate your success<br />
As part of Fresha’s all-in-one salon management platform,<br />
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probrandnews<br />
America’s<br />
Beauty<br />
Show 2024<br />
An inspiring opportunity awaits you. America’s Beauty Show<br />
- What’s NEXT will be held April 20, 21 & 22, 2024.<br />
America’s Beauty Show - What’s NEXT is set to be held<br />
April 20, 21 & 22, 2024, at the illustrious Donald E.<br />
Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont, IL. Embark on<br />
this three-day journey brimming with education,<br />
celebration, and shopping, alongside countless likeminded,<br />
passionate, and original beauty professionals.<br />
There is so much to look forward to. Please save the date!<br />
WHAT’S NEXT AT ABS?<br />
To start, the ABS Global Image Awards are back and better<br />
than ever! The creative talents of the beauty industry will<br />
be showcased at this most popular Saturday evening<br />
entertainment, filled with music and robust artistry.<br />
As always, Skincare at America’s Beauty Show and The<br />
CIDESCO Skincare Academy will offer world-class<br />
education for estheticians. Traditional features that<br />
participants return for year after year include the ABS<br />
Runway, Beauty Innovation Stage, Barber Stage, Celebrity<br />
Educators, Social Media Influencer Panels, Nails, and<br />
Student Competitions.<br />
One of the innovations to the show this year will be the<br />
Health & Wellness Pavilion! Your health matters, and<br />
taking care of yourself is your first priority, so you can take<br />
care of others.<br />
America’s Beauty Show by Cosmetologists Chicago<br />
comprises a network of beauty pros who just get you. Come<br />
as you are to America’s Beauty Show where you will<br />
connect with inspiring people – just like you!<br />
Once you join Cosmetologists Chicago, your membership<br />
then includes access to year-round CEU education<br />
resources, legislative advocacy, networking opportunities,<br />
and a complimentary ticket to the most badass beauty show<br />
in the United States. We are here for you and we are in this<br />
together.<br />
Tickets to America’s Beauty Show - What’s NEXT April 20-22, 2024<br />
are now available at americasbeautyshow.com. We cannot wait so<br />
see you there!<br />
Photo Credit: Ulta Beauty Pro Team for America’s Beauty Show<br />
E96<br />
07E
<strong>USA</strong> EDITION<br />
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America's Beauty Show www.americasbeautyshow.com 96<br />
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Goldwell www.goldwell.com FC/01<br />
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