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Beach House, Spring 2024

This special issue of the Provincetown Independent nudges us into spring on Outer Cape Cod — into the landscape of beach plums and bees; into ceramicists' studios and artists' interiors and gardens; and off on a quest for beach houses where sun and wind inform design.

This special issue of the Provincetown Independent nudges us into spring on Outer Cape Cod — into the landscape of beach plums and bees; into ceramicists' studios and artists' interiors and gardens; and off on a quest for beach houses where sun and wind inform design.

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<strong>Beach</strong> houses where<br />

the sun and wind<br />

inform the design page 5<br />

SPRING <strong>2024</strong>


2 | Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

<strong>Spring</strong> arrives slowly out here. Some year-round houses wake up bit by<br />

bit, nudging their owners outdoors with the promise of gardening. Other<br />

houses are yanked into life as they’re opened for the summer season<br />

after a long winter shutdown. This, our first-ever home and garden<br />

supplement, celebrates both with a distinct combination of modern and<br />

traditional design that makes the Outer Cape such a special place to live.<br />

We hope you enjoy it.<br />

Guest editor: Stephen Orr<br />

Contributors: Hannah Oakland, Teresa Parker,<br />

Kai Potter, Abraham Storer, Agata Storer<br />

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Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 3<br />

ON THE LANDSCAPE<br />

The Bee and the <strong>Beach</strong> Plum<br />

By Kai Potter<br />

The dunes of the Province Lands were in full<br />

bloom. It was May, and the tops of the sandy<br />

hills were crested pink with Rosa rugosa.<br />

<strong>Beach</strong> plum, covered in fluffy white blooms, settled<br />

in the dips and lowlands like snowdrifts left in the<br />

melting days after a blizzard. The air was buzzing<br />

with bees gathering nectar and pollen with absolute<br />

devotion in the warm, bountiful days of late<br />

spring.<br />

They weren’t all honeybees. Each morning of<br />

my week- long stay in Zara’s shack — one of the<br />

dune shacks cared for by the Peaked Hill Trust — I<br />

woke to the sounds of the carpenter bees emerging<br />

from the round holes they had drilled in the shack’s<br />

cedar trim. The sun would rise and warm the siding,<br />

telling the bees the day had begun,<br />

and they would go out into the<br />

world to be bees. I took my coffee out<br />

and sat in the cool sand by a large,<br />

dense grove of beach plums to watch<br />

the bees and to be human.<br />

Every spur of the purple stems<br />

of the beach plum closest to the<br />

house was crowned with delicate<br />

white and pink- tinged flowers. The<br />

bees — those living in the shack and<br />

others from the fields and woods of<br />

the dunes — swarmed the blossoms<br />

so that each branch was a vibrating,<br />

living thing of flower and bee.<br />

I watched one plump bee crawl<br />

through the branches. She moved<br />

efficiently, stopping at each flower<br />

to gather the sugar and protein<br />

it offered, thousands of years of<br />

experience in her legs. She paused<br />

for a moment to sip nectar and collect pollen, amassing it in gold nuggets on her<br />

body and hind legs. Once full, she flew away, her pollen- dusted body carried on<br />

mica and lace wings.<br />

When the bee does its work, it moves from flower to<br />

flower, gathering food for itself and, as it does, also collecting<br />

and spreading the genetic material of the beach<br />

plum in a wider range than wind alone might do.<br />

The flower wants the bee to visit as many other flowers<br />

as it can, so in each flower is just a tiny sip of nectar<br />

and a dash of pollen. The bee must visit many blooms —<br />

and often. For the bee, that’s all that matters today;<br />

meanwhile, the flower’s purpose is to spread its pollen<br />

through the dunes. Each is completely dedicated to its<br />

own pursuit. And each is appealing to the needs of the<br />

other to fulfill its own objective. What a funny trick they<br />

play on one another, I thought.<br />

As the bee flew off, my eye was drawn to the dunes<br />

beyond. I saw them filled with the flowers of the<br />

beach plums. So many for the bees to visit, and<br />

so many bees to visit them. Seeing this, my idea<br />

of the individual softened and a broader mutualistic<br />

system became clear. Both these organisms,<br />

the bee and the beach plum, are expressions of<br />

the same thing: a profound, balanced system of<br />

life.<br />

In the late summer, pollinated flowers will<br />

turn into sugar-filled plums, and this mutualistic<br />

balance will express itself again. Through its<br />

roots, the beach plum will draw water to fill the<br />

plums to ripeness. A bird, unrooted, will land on<br />

a purple stem and pluck a plum. It will eat, and it<br />

will fly; sugar given in exchange for wings. The<br />

seeds, those little embers of life, will pass though<br />

the bird and, somewhere along its flight, a nitrogen-rich<br />

deposit will be dropped, carrying the<br />

seeds to new dunes.<br />

Another beach plum will grow. It will flower.<br />

The bees will come in the spring with their vibrating<br />

wings and fuzzy bodies. They will gather<br />

and spread pollen. More plums will grow and<br />

again be carried by wings. And life will expand.<br />

Clockwise from top right: Dense stands of beach plum<br />

(Prunus maritima) in bloom on the dune below Zara’s<br />

shack. Rafts of beach plums cover the dunes in May.<br />

A Heliopsis or false sunflower. Wild asters. Some beach<br />

plum flowers are tinged pink rather than white. The<br />

stamens hold the pollen out from the blossom for the<br />

bee to brush against as it reaches the nectar. A bee<br />

nestled in a Rosa rugosa flower. (<strong>Beach</strong> plum photos<br />

by Kai Potter)


4 | Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

Five Perennials for Your Outer Cape<br />

Pollinator Garden<br />

Bee Balm<br />

Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)<br />

offers rounded clusters of small<br />

bright orange flowers that honeybees<br />

feast on in August. It is an important<br />

host plant for monarch butterflies.<br />

Unlike most milkweeds, its leaves<br />

are alternate, and it lacks the plant’s<br />

typical milky sap. Butterfly weed<br />

is rugged and will grow in<br />

dry, sandy soil. There<br />

are many types of<br />

milkweed but this<br />

one is not invasive<br />

like the common<br />

variety Asclepias<br />

syriaca.<br />

Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)<br />

has flower spikes that look like<br />

fuzzy upright caterpillars the color<br />

of lavender. It blooms at intervals<br />

throughout the summer. This is a<br />

member of the mint family, though<br />

it seems to be easier to contain<br />

than common culinary mints. It has<br />

square stems and licorice- scented<br />

foliage — something rabbits<br />

and deer don’t love. It<br />

thrives in heat and is<br />

tolerant of drought<br />

and poor soils.<br />

Anise<br />

Hyssop<br />

Bee Balm<br />

comes in many<br />

colors, but the<br />

shorter pink<br />

bradburiana or<br />

Eastern version is a<br />

boon for bees because<br />

it blooms earlier in summer.<br />

It’s also a clumping species so<br />

won’t send runners to fill a whole<br />

border the way the later- blooming<br />

scarlet ones (Monarda didyma) will.<br />

Once established, these don’t need<br />

much attention, but they’re not as<br />

drought- tolerant as other plants<br />

on this list. Give them space and<br />

morning sun because they’re also<br />

susceptible to powdery mildew. The<br />

bonus: they attract hummingbirds.<br />

Sweet<br />

Pepperbush<br />

Butterfly<br />

Weed<br />

Seaside Goldenrod<br />

Goldenrod sends up its luscious,<br />

deep yellow, arching clusters of<br />

flowers in late summer; it is a<br />

good supplier of pollen for bees<br />

provisioning their nests and nectar<br />

for butterflies preparing for their fall<br />

migrations. It’s adapted to drought<br />

and poor soils and is deer resistant.<br />

And contrary to popular belief, it<br />

do not cause hay fever: the culprit<br />

is common ragweed, Ambrosia<br />

artemisiifolia, which often grows<br />

near goldenrod. Clumping forms<br />

include Showy goldenrod (Solidago<br />

speciosa) and Seaside goldenrod<br />

(Solidago sempervirens).<br />

Sweet Pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia)<br />

is a suckering shrub you’ll come<br />

across in partly shaded wetlands<br />

here. Look on the wooded edges of<br />

ponds for swaths of their white spire<br />

blooms starting in mid- July to early<br />

August. If you have the right spot,<br />

they’ll reward you with their spicysweet<br />

perfume. They’ll reward your<br />

neighborhood’s honeybees, too.<br />

When their nectar flows, Wellfleet<br />

beekeeper John Portnoy says his<br />

apiary becomes a “honey factory.”<br />

His sweet pepperbush honey is<br />

harvested after the bees have feasted<br />

and put up sufficient fall supplies.<br />

— The Editors<br />

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Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 5<br />

The Nature of<br />

the <strong>Beach</strong> <strong>House</strong><br />

The impromptu quality of the modernists’ seaside getaways may be<br />

a thing of the past, but three architects say a connection with nature<br />

is still their primary pursuit<br />

Angles at the Round <strong>House</strong> in<br />

Wellfleet, architect Joy Cuming’s<br />

reinterpretation of a house<br />

designed in the 1970s by Charlie<br />

Zehnder. (Photo by Roe Osborn,<br />

courtesy Aline Architecture)<br />

By Teresa Parker<br />

<strong>Beach</strong> houses have evolved since<br />

the modernists built their getaways<br />

on Outer Cape Cod starting<br />

in the late 1930s. But their work<br />

is still present in the minds of today’s<br />

designers. We asked three architects<br />

working here — Paul Krueger, Joy<br />

Cuming, and Mark Hammer — to tell<br />

us what the words “beach house”<br />

mean to them.<br />

Krueger designed his first Outer<br />

Cape house in 1966 soon after he<br />

served, fresh out of school, as project<br />

manager on Harvard’s Carpenter<br />

Center — on which Le Corbusier<br />

teamed with Josep Lluis Sert. They<br />

were looking for someone “without<br />

preconceived notions of how things<br />

are done,” according to Peter Mc-<br />

Mahon and Christine Cipriani’s book<br />

Cape Cod Modern. Krueger’s Mark<br />

house in Truro is a reimagining of<br />

Provincetown’s fishermen’s shacks<br />

crossed with Le Corbusierian sculpturalism.<br />

Only 12 feet wide, floating<br />

above a moor on pilings, it is at once a<br />

rustic cabin and edgy artwork.<br />

Cuming has been designing and<br />

building houses on the Outer Cape<br />

for 30 years, starting out with the late<br />

Alan Dodge, who had worked with<br />

the self- taught midcentury modern<br />

builder Charlie Zehnder. Now she has<br />

her own firm, Aline Architects Studio<br />

in Orleans. “I don’t think so much<br />

about style as I do about what I’m<br />

relating to, what the site suggests,”<br />

says Cuming. “Modernism allows<br />

quite a lot of freedom to explore materials<br />

and the relationship of a building<br />

to its environment.”<br />

In his 20 years working here,<br />

Hammer says he has always felt a<br />

connection between contemporary<br />

design and the modernist experiments<br />

that dot our woods. “Our<br />

work is very much informed by<br />

our forebears who built the modern<br />

houses here,” he says of his<br />

Cambridge- based Hammer Architects.<br />

“We are connected by the desire<br />

to build a house that feels like it<br />

fits in, and where the sun and wind<br />

inform the design.”<br />

Q: Tell us about your own ideal<br />

“beach house.”<br />

The Mark <strong>House</strong>, built in Truro in 1966, was architect Paul Krueger’s first on the Outer Cape.<br />

Referencing both Provincetown fishermen’s shacks and Le Corbusier, it is only 12 feet wide.<br />

(Photo by Steve Rosenthal, courtesy Krueger Associates)<br />

“I would have to say my ideal is a<br />

tent,” says Paul Krueger from the<br />

Cambridge office of Krueger Associates.<br />

On trips to Wellfleet with his<br />

young family in the 1960s, “we always<br />

camped at the Audubon sanctuary. It<br />

was only gradually that we started to<br />

talk about wanting something a little<br />

sturdier than those canvas walls.”<br />

For him, what’s fundamental is that<br />

a beach house provides immediacy<br />

with nature.<br />

Joy Cuming also thinks of the<br />

seasons she spent living close to<br />

the elements — including on a boat<br />

in Provincetown Harbor. She has no<br />

single mental image of what a beach<br />

house should look like; it might be<br />

one in a row of little cottages or a<br />

freeform space under a curved roof<br />

that follows the undulations of the<br />

dunes. “Its forms and shapes emerge<br />

from the contours of the place,” she<br />

says. Whatever its shape, though,<br />

“a beach house should be a place<br />

where the materials feel at home on<br />

the site. The house needs to feel like<br />

it’s meant to be there. A house that<br />

touches down lightly would be my<br />

ideal.”<br />

“I think ‘beach house’ is kind<br />

of an odd term for the Outer Cape,<br />

since not many houses are right on<br />

the beach here,” says Mark Hammer:<br />

“ ‘Seaside’ is a better term.” His own<br />

house in Truro overlooks a valley, not<br />

the water, which, he says, is “everywhere<br />

close enough.” Although the<br />

houses he builds often include expanses<br />

of glass, he says he’s not always<br />

trying to capture views: “The<br />

ideal is about a connection to nature,<br />

and especially about being able to enjoy<br />

natural light.”<br />

Q. You’ve all been designing<br />

houses on the Outer Cape for<br />

many years. How have beach<br />

houses evolved?<br />

“There is a real change in the kinds<br />

of materials people are looking for,”<br />

says Cuming. “They are more aware<br />

of the scarcity of materials we once<br />

thought were in abundant supply.”<br />

The use of heat- treated wood, electric<br />

radiant heat, and all the technical<br />

details affect the way you build a<br />

house, she says.<br />

Kreuger has watched beach<br />

houses grow larger and in some ways<br />

more serious — the cost of materials<br />

is part of what has driven a desire for<br />

permanence, he says.<br />

Hammer agrees. “Twenty years<br />

ago we were able to build more<br />

continued on page 6


6 | Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

The Nature of<br />

the <strong>Beach</strong> <strong>House</strong><br />

continued from page 5<br />

economically, and many projects<br />

were simpler,” he says. “But as the<br />

cost of construction grew, people<br />

began to view building as a bigger<br />

project; houses are more solid now.”<br />

People expect to be more comfortable,<br />

even though that can be at odds<br />

with the beach house ideal, for instance<br />

when air conditioning replaces<br />

designs that catch prevailing breezes.<br />

Q: It sounds as if you all agree<br />

beach houses owe more to nature<br />

than to trends. But is there something<br />

emerging in beach house<br />

design that you especially like?<br />

“In some ways, people have a stronger<br />

sense of design than they did<br />

when I first started working,” says<br />

Cuming. “They often try to describe<br />

the way they want to feel in<br />

their beach house rather than starting<br />

with a list of room names” — a<br />

trend she finds both challenging and<br />

liberating.<br />

Kreuger sees an interest in<br />

groups of smaller structures, each<br />

one satisfying a different need. Instead<br />

of designing one big house, he’s<br />

found himself building collections of<br />

cottages that offer spaces for privacy<br />

and for gathering, for an artist’s<br />

studio, room for guests, a play house<br />

for children — “all while keeping to a<br />

humanistic scale.”<br />

Cuming says that the tiny-house<br />

movement has shaped that interest.<br />

“Everyone is fascinated by the<br />

tiny house, though most people<br />

don’t want to live in them exactly,”<br />

she says.<br />

“You think more now about<br />

Architect Mark Hammer designed the family room of his addition at the Pamet Bend <strong>House</strong> in Truro as a “Miesian box” — inspired by<br />

Mies van der Rohe — to place those in it directly amid nature. (Photo by Peter Vanderwarker, courtesy Hammer Architects)<br />

how you’re going to address environmental<br />

concerns,” says Hammer.<br />

He likes the design challenge<br />

of placing windows to maximizes<br />

light in winter combined with brise<br />

soleil systems. You’ll see in his recent<br />

work big, broad overhanging<br />

roofs that keep the sun off the glass<br />

in summer.<br />

Q: Is there an element of the ideal<br />

that should never be lost?<br />

“Natural light is the most important<br />

thing,” says Hammer. And a beach<br />

house “must be allowed to expand<br />

and contract with the seasons, with<br />

different orientations through the<br />

seasons and the light at different<br />

times of day.”<br />

Cuming takes a similar tack: “The<br />

wind and the dunes are so austere and<br />

also ever- changing here. It’s important<br />

that a beach house respond to<br />

that,” she says. “You can’t just orient<br />

the entire experience of a house<br />

straight out to the ocean. You need to<br />

find a good feeling in every direction<br />

and in the changing light and mood of<br />

the day.”<br />

Kreuger says for him a beach<br />

house should always be made of natural<br />

materials like weathered wood<br />

and cedar shingles. And alongside<br />

the modernist- inspired pursuit of<br />

openness and natural light, a beach<br />

house that’s right for Outer Cape Cod<br />

will also draw on historical forms like<br />

those of simple fish shacks that connect<br />

new designs with tradition.<br />

Cuming offers one more essential<br />

bit of advice rooted in tradition:<br />

“There have to be cozy spots and<br />

spaces where you can feel sheltered<br />

and protected from the vastness and<br />

elements.”<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY BY : DAN CUTRONA<br />

NICHOLAEFF ARCHITECTURE + DESIGN • 508-420-5298 • www.nicholaeff.com


Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 7<br />

Interior Landscapes in Dialogue<br />

With Light<br />

For observational artists, the idea of turning one’s attention<br />

to the indoors might seem counterintuitive in a place like<br />

Cape Cod. But for a few, domestic landscapes still inspire.<br />

By Abraham Storer<br />

Love Shack II by Karen Cappotto. (Photo courtesy Karen Cappotto)<br />

KAREN CAPPOTTO has found herself recently fascinated<br />

with the interiors of quintessential Provincetown structures,<br />

including the dune shacks and the Mary Heaton Vorse house. She<br />

made one of her first interior paintings nearly 10 years ago after<br />

helping a friend move out of a summer cottage on Creek Road. “It<br />

was one of those moments where I knew my experience in Provincetown<br />

would change,” she says. “I knew our bohemian lifestyle<br />

was forever gone.” She memorialized the experience in a 17-foot<br />

painting. In Bath Time, a more recent painting of one of the improvisational<br />

homes on Tasha Hill, she strikes a tone that is both elegiac<br />

and matter of fact in its bare-bones depiction of a bathroom<br />

with funky windows. “I’m focused on places that I feel are precariously<br />

close to not being around for very long,” Cappotto says.<br />

Bath Time by Karen Cappotto. (Photo courtesy Karen Cappotto)<br />

BOB HENRY paints all sorts of things but periodically<br />

he sets up his easel and paints the rooms<br />

he lives in. In these paintings, a few of which are<br />

currently on view at Wellfleet Preservation Hall, he<br />

explores the dialogue between an inner space and<br />

the outside. Often the landscape of Wellfleet’s Duck<br />

Creek peeks through the windows in his interior<br />

paintings.<br />

In Wellfleet, Third Floor he makes a painting of<br />

his sitting room, but the real subject here is light<br />

breaking through the stormy clouds outside the<br />

window and filtering through the room, illuminating<br />

ledges and table tops and bouncing across the<br />

walls. The burdensome and banal objects of daily<br />

life — a pile of papers, a shopping bag, old chairs —<br />

are heightened by the transformative experience of<br />

light and color.<br />

continued on page 9<br />

Wellfleet, Third Floor, oil on canvas by Bob Henry. (Photo by Abraham Storer)


8 | Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

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Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 9<br />

Interior Landscapes in Dialogue With Light<br />

continued from page 7<br />

Klee’s Child With Mine, mixed media on paper by Erika Wastrom. (Photo courtesy Erika Wastrom)<br />

Yesterday’s Dishes, mixed media on paper by Erika Wastrom. (Photo courtesy<br />

Erika Wastrom)<br />

ERIKA WASTROM, an artist who lives in Barnstable and shows in Provincetown’s Gaa Gallery,<br />

uses her paintings of interiors to impose order on a less-than-ordered domestic life. The mother<br />

of two boys, ages six and nine, she fantasizes about living in a perfectly curated home through her<br />

subscription to Homes & Gardens, the British decorating magazine. Her paintings are another form<br />

of escape. Mundane objects like a drying rack and more sentimental ones like a Paul Klee print purchased<br />

on her honeymoon are contained in controlled pictorial spaces defined by clean, flat planes of<br />

color and passages of expressive patterning.<br />

REBECCA BRUYN’S fascination with light comes<br />

through in a new body of work in which she photographs the<br />

interiors of old American houses and prints them on translucent<br />

vellum. “The light enhances the normal everyday things<br />

one might not look at when you’re in your home,” she says.<br />

In her photographs natural light animates overlooked details<br />

like architectural moldings, candle stubs, and curtains.<br />

A ghostly atmosphere infuses these pictures, alluding to the<br />

histories of the lives that once inhabited the rooms.<br />

Curtain by the Door, photograph on vellum by Rebecca Bruyn.<br />

Interior Light and Shadows, photograph on vellum by Rebecca Bruyn.


10 | Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

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12 | Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

At Home on Pochet Island<br />

Hidden in the folding shores of<br />

East Orleans’s Little Pleasant Bay is<br />

a true rarity — a privately owned<br />

but publicly accessible island within<br />

the boundaries of the Cape Cod<br />

National Seashore.<br />

By Stephen Orr<br />

Nancy Barrington can’t remember<br />

the first time she<br />

visited Pochet Island. “I’m<br />

sure Mom and Dad brought me<br />

when I was just a few weeks old,”<br />

she says, “and it’s been home ever<br />

since.” Barrington’s ancestor Gilbert<br />

Russell Payson Sr. purchased<br />

the 150-acre island, which is pronounced<br />

“poachy,” not “poachet,”<br />

in 1886. He also bought two other<br />

neighboring estuarine islands, Hog<br />

and Sampson, both uninhabited<br />

(the latter not to be confused with<br />

the Sampsons Island bird sanctuary<br />

near Cotuit). Wealthy from cotton<br />

mills he owned in New Hampshire,<br />

Payson wanted the islands as his<br />

private duck hunting grounds.<br />

That same year, Payson contracted<br />

a local shipbuilder to construct<br />

a large main house, the<br />

building materials brought over at<br />

low tide on horse-drawn buckboard<br />

from the outer beach at Nauset. It<br />

was called the New <strong>House</strong>, to distinguish<br />

it from an older structure,<br />

a full Cape now called the Old<br />

<strong>House</strong>, that was brought to the island<br />

in the early 1800s. These and<br />

three cottages built later are now<br />

used by his descendants.<br />

According to family lore,<br />

Payson was faced with tremendous<br />

debt after being swindled by a business<br />

partner and was forced to sell<br />

his properties in Watertown and<br />

Brookline. “But nobody wanted to<br />

buy three islands on Cape Cod at the<br />

time,” says Barrington, “so they<br />

stayed in the family.” After Payson<br />

died in 1891, ownership went to his<br />

children, whose descendants, now<br />

numbering in the hundreds, still<br />

manage the island as a trust.<br />

Barrington says the island’s<br />

name derives from a Wampa noag<br />

word that means “the dividing<br />

place” because it was an in-between<br />

meeting location for members of<br />

the Monomoyick and Nauset tribes.<br />

By the time her ancestor purchased<br />

the land, it was a sheep farm and<br />

barren of all trees and large shrubs.<br />

Later the family would plant hardwood<br />

trees and do controlled burns<br />

to keep the meadows intact. But after<br />

a fire nearly took out the New<br />

<strong>House</strong>, that practice was stopped in<br />

the early 20th century, and over the<br />

decades thick copses of pine, oak,<br />

holly, poison ivy, and bittersweet<br />

grew to cover much of the island.<br />

When the National Seashore<br />

proposed to take over the family’s<br />

land in 1961 to guard against future<br />

resort development, the descendants<br />

made the case that the<br />

islands are difficult to access and<br />

an awful lot of work to maintain.<br />

The officials agreed, and the land<br />

was put into a perpetual conservation<br />

easement owned by the family,<br />

who promised never to develop the<br />

islands and never to build another<br />

structure or even replace one if<br />

it burns or is destroyed in a storm.<br />

In return, the family maintains the<br />

paths and meadows against the<br />

rampant growth of invasive plants<br />

while welcoming the public to walk<br />

the trails.<br />

“Keeping Pochet going is still<br />

very much a Payson family project,”<br />

says Barrington. “There are<br />

four miles of trails to tend and some<br />

40 acres of meadows; each acre<br />

takes a day to mow by my brothers<br />

and cousins.”<br />

With hundreds of bird species<br />

on the island, Pochet is a favorite, if<br />

remote, destination for birdwatch-


Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 13<br />

ers. “It’s a fall hot spot for migrating birds,” says<br />

Mark Faherty, Mass Audubon’s science coordinator<br />

for Cape Cod. “But the mile-plus-long hike along the<br />

sand from Nauset <strong>Beach</strong> parking lot keeps less hardy<br />

birders from visiting.”<br />

Though family members can row their guests<br />

over from Barley Neck, public visitors must hike over<br />

from the southern part of Nauset <strong>Beach</strong>, or they can<br />

approach by water in kayaks or canoes. “We just ask<br />

that they not use our family dock because it’s small<br />

and rickety,” says Barrington.<br />

Hikers must pay careful attention to tide charts<br />

since the marsh paths and small bridge are usable<br />

only at low tide, with many of the trails becoming<br />

deeply mucky in wet weather. Barrington recounts<br />

how she was trapped for eight hours on the island<br />

recently when she lost track of time and couldn’t get<br />

back over the bridge due to unusually high tides. As<br />

the dunes succumb to storms and erosion, the marsh<br />

has become even more prone to flooding.<br />

Among the houses, which remain private, the<br />

three-story New <strong>House</strong>, which Barrington shares<br />

with her two brothers and their families, is the architectural<br />

centerpiece of the island. Constructed primarily<br />

with wooden pegs, it seems frozen in time in<br />

charming and idiosyncratic ways. Height marks on a<br />

kitchen wall date back over a century. A hand-painted<br />

mural of a sailboat and other artworks hang among<br />

heirloom furniture and photographs of ancestors and<br />

the island still in its barren state.<br />

Modern conveniences barely exist. There’s no<br />

indoor plumbing, only a two-seater outhouse and<br />

composting toilet. Until recently there was no electricity,<br />

though now a generator and solar panels power<br />

two outlets and heat water for one faucet. After the<br />

hand-cranked well pump gave out, the family put in a<br />

new electric model. “You can’t get a pump for a well<br />

that’s not electric anymore,” says<br />

Barrington.<br />

“We don’t consider ourselves<br />

the owners of this place,” she says.<br />

“We’re just the stewards.” Barrington,<br />

a former computer programmer,<br />

learned so much about<br />

restoring the original windows in<br />

her house that she started her own<br />

business, Window Restoration Cape<br />

Cod, in 2015. “There’s nothing I<br />

like more than just sitting on the<br />

porch and looking over the meadow<br />

to the beach,” she says. “I was<br />

always a type A personality. I was<br />

always busy. Now I’ve learned to<br />

stop, because every day is different.<br />

At night it’s really dark; it’s quiet.<br />

You can hear the ocean and not<br />

anything else — except for the coyotes,<br />

of course.”<br />

For more information search “Pochet Island” on<br />

alltrails.com. Several local walking clubs and the Orleans<br />

Conservation Trust lead guided walks in the summer.<br />

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: An imposing brick and stone fireplace<br />

decorated with over a century of family memorabilia anchors the New <strong>House</strong> built<br />

in 1886. Nancy Barrington, her daughter Carol Crewdson, and a friend walk Pochet<br />

Island’s salt marsh trails at low tide. The three-story staircase in the house was<br />

made by a shipbuilder with pegs instead of nails. “Makes sense because of rust<br />

problems from the salt air,” explains Barrington. A painting of Baba, Barrington’s<br />

great-grandmother. Antiques, historic photographs, and family artwork fill the rooms.<br />

Chase Crewdson, Barrington’s son, rows guests over from Barley Neck.<br />

This page, clockwise from top: The New <strong>House</strong> sits in a broad meadow maintained by<br />

the family to fend off the establishment of invasive plants and trees. An artsy corner<br />

of Barrington’s house features painting supplies and photographs of her ancestors.<br />

Nancy, Chase, and Airy, the German shepherd, relax on the front steps. Heirlooms<br />

like a taxidermy owl and various binoculars and telescopes (to take advantage of the<br />

island’s dark night skies) sit on top of the piano. (Photos by Stephen Orr)


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Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 15<br />

From the Earth We’re Standing On<br />

Three ceramicists find inspiration in places as diverse as Grandma’s popcorn bowl,<br />

stacks of patterned fabrics, and the clay cliffs of a Wellfleet beach.<br />

By Abraham Storer<br />

The Outer Cape has provided the bedrock of inspiration for ceramicists<br />

Michael Ceraldi, Paul Wisotzky, and Isabel Souza. Ceraldi takes creative<br />

nourishment from this place most literally, gathering clay from local<br />

beaches to create plates for his Wellfleet restaurant. As young ceramicists,<br />

Souza and Wisotzky both nurtured their craft at Castle Hill, where Ceraldi currently<br />

creates and fires his work. They share a commitment to making functional<br />

objects, but that’s about where the similarities end. These three artists<br />

have forged different styles, revealing the malleability of the art form.<br />

Michael Ceraldi<br />

“I try to live from a creative, artistic place. That’s my home. I’ve always<br />

been working in food and making art. Rolling out clay with the<br />

slab roller and rolling out pasta with my pasta machine are pretty<br />

much the same thing.<br />

“When I started doing ceramics here, I heard about the clay deposits<br />

at the beach and I thought about how I could incorporate the<br />

actual earth we’re standing on into my work. I started harvesting<br />

about a half pound of clay at a time and turning that into a slip,<br />

which is like a thick, loose paint with which I’ll coat my plates. The<br />

local clay is a deep gray because of the iron it contains, but when it’s<br />

fired it turns an oxidized rusty color.<br />

“I like to keep the somewhat irregular characteristics of each<br />

piece I make, because that’s a good representation of the earth<br />

and where it comes from. I don’t want to take that away by trying<br />

to laboriously make every edge perfect. I’m inspired by Japanese<br />

ceramics that don’t try to hide what some people might consider<br />

mistakes.”<br />

“I was making a vase and tooling the bottom out and the bottom fell through,” says Michael<br />

Ceraldi. “I thought, ‘How can I utilize this cylinder? It’s kind of like the shape of a drum.’ So, from<br />

there, I started making drums.” (Photos by Agata Storer)<br />

Plates made by Michael Ceraldi with a blue salt glaze and clay from a Wellfleet beach.<br />

Paul Wisotzky<br />

“I started making pots when I was at Lexington High School. I had a<br />

great teacher. She was the first teacher who showed me that I could<br />

actually be good at something. My parents had a summer home in<br />

Truro, and I started taking classes at Castle Hill when I was a teenager.<br />

I did it in college a little bit, but I stopped, and I had another<br />

life for 20 or 25 years.<br />

“I always wanted to be a potter. I moved here in 2007. Now’s<br />

the time, I thought, and I did it.<br />

“I glaze my work in atmosphere kilns, which is where the atmosphere<br />

has an impact on the glaze surface and the clay surface.<br />

One of the things I love about atmospheric firing is that it gives the<br />

kiln the last say. I can’t control the atmosphere consistently, so it<br />

will impact the surface of the pot differently in each firing. Most of<br />

the time, it’s a good final say, but occasionally it’s not — that’s the<br />

beauty of it.<br />

“I have a specific decorating technique. I’m inspired by looking<br />

at patterns on fabric, in architecture, or in graphic design. I<br />

design sponge stamps on the computer and fabricate them with a<br />

laser cutter. I then use the sponge stamps to decorate my pottery<br />

through wax resist, kind of like batik.”<br />

Wisotzky decorates his ceramics with sponge stamps and a wax resistant technique.<br />

Paul Wisotzky in his Truro studio.


16 | Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

From the Earth<br />

We’re Standing On<br />

continued from page 15<br />

Isabel Souza<br />

“Ceramics was always a thing for me.<br />

I’ve never taken a break from it. I’ve<br />

always been determined to make this<br />

my full-time job.<br />

“I was in kindergarten when I<br />

took my first handbuilding clay class<br />

at Castle Hill, and then in fifth grade<br />

I took my first throwing class. I continued<br />

through high school and then<br />

college and now I’ve been selling my<br />

work for four years.<br />

“I have all these mugs that I’m<br />

working on for my shop that’s opening<br />

in Wellfleet in the spring. My<br />

goal is to make 1,500 mugs this year.<br />

I threw 80 mugs yesterday. When<br />

I’m making this many mugs it’s important<br />

for me to have a design that<br />

I know will turn out well. I have this<br />

blue-splatter design inspired by vintage<br />

enamelware. It’s a white opaque<br />

glaze with blue on top of it. My grandmother<br />

has a blue and white enamel<br />

bowl that we always used to eat<br />

popcorn out of, so it’s very nostalgic<br />

for me.<br />

“I’m inspired by Portuguese and<br />

Spanish pottery. I use a European<br />

technique called maiolica but apply it<br />

in a different style. The technique begins<br />

with a base glaze that’s a really<br />

opaque white, and then I paint pigments<br />

on top of it. If you’re just using<br />

normal glazes, it’s harder to get the<br />

same details. Maiolica lends itself to<br />

bright colors and imagery.”<br />

Souza in her studio in the runup to opening a shop in Wellfleet. “I threw 80 mugs yesterday,” she says. (Photos by Agata Storer)<br />

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Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 17<br />

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18 | Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

Bringing Light<br />

to a Basement<br />

Makeover<br />

By Hannah Oakland<br />

Cozy seating makes the lightest corner of the studio a focal point. (Photos by Hannah Oakland)<br />

An expanse of white subway tile adds light to a windowless kitchenette.<br />

When it comes to home renovation projects, sprucing up a basement falls<br />

low on most people’s priority lists. To some degree this makes sense:<br />

what could be more satisfying than having a long open room designated<br />

for hucking boxes into? And on Cape Cod, basement mustiness can be hard to<br />

banish. But so is that steady stream of summer visitors.<br />

Those who are lucky enough to have a walk-out basement here might be<br />

surprised by how livable even a small basement studio space can be — not just<br />

for your aunt’s best friend’s cousin but for you and yours. Creating a relaxing<br />

space for guests to have autonomy and privacy away from the rest of your<br />

household will get everyone through their vacation peaceably. If you can include<br />

even a simple, small kitchen and bathroom, you might even start to look forward<br />

to the season.<br />

The name of the game in a basement space is light. With windows at one<br />

end, this 350-square-foot space held promise. To make that light seem to reach<br />

farther into the rooms, a whitewashed vinyl plank floor with gray hues suggesting<br />

driftwood replaced old industrial carpeting, and a dilapidated drop ceiling<br />

was swapped out for a clean expanse of drywall.<br />

A bright shared entryway provides a welcoming spot for guests to drop their<br />

bags and not feel in the way as they settle in. Don’t be afraid to have fun with it,<br />

adding splashes of color and pattern. Here, the blue and tan are an unconventional<br />

way to adopt coastal hues.<br />

In the windowless kitchenette, white subway tile running all the way to the<br />

ceiling reflects light, while black grout pulls the eye in different directions, widening<br />

the view. For the opposite wall, an earthy green connects the room to the<br />

outdoors. Natural wood countertops enhance that organic feel.<br />

When you’re working with a modest makeover budget, a few splurges on<br />

higher-quality small but frequently used items, like the Stagg teapot and the<br />

mini-induction range, go a long way to adding a feeling of luxury.<br />

Space for lounging is tricky in a small studio like this. But offering two different<br />

spots for sitting is a good trick — and make them comfy. A padded bench<br />

at the foot of the bed provides a practical perch. The cozy oversize accent chair<br />

invites guests to make the most appealing, light-filled corner in the space their<br />

own — at least for a little while.<br />

The entryway is the place to have fun with colors and patterns.<br />

Opposite the tile, an earthy green connects<br />

the space to the outdoors.<br />

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Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong> | 21<br />

The Art of Blanche Lazzell’s Flowers<br />

One of Provincetown’s founding art colony painters fed both her spirit and her<br />

creativity in a tiny studio garden at the end of a rickety East End wharf<br />

By Stephen Orr<br />

“T<br />

he gaiety and brilliancy of the<br />

flowers surrounding the studio of<br />

Blanche Lazzell attract and hold<br />

our attention whether we glimpse it from<br />

the waterside or through its narrow approach<br />

down an unnamed alley. Gay as<br />

these surroundings are they find a rival<br />

in the fascinating interior of this former<br />

fish house, now one of the more attractive<br />

spots in Provincetown. It is here that<br />

more than a thousand visitors have this<br />

summer seen Miss Lazzell’s work: an<br />

exhibition of wood block prints, which<br />

would draw attention anywhere and in<br />

this town with its variety of production<br />

stands distinctive by reason of its honest<br />

strength and genuine character.”<br />

‘Care and proper soil make flowers almost talk.<br />

Mine have expression. They express God — if given the chance.’<br />

— Lazzell in a letter to her sister, April 27, 1937<br />

Clockwise from top: Blanche Lazzell waters the container garden at<br />

her East End pier studio in a 1942 photograph. (Photo West Virginia<br />

and Regional History Center)<br />

Always a master of economy, Lazzell tends the fishing nets she used<br />

as trellises in a photo from 1951. (Photo West Virginia and Regional<br />

History Center)<br />

Cubist abstractions inside her studio. (Photo courtesy Archives of<br />

American Art, Smithsonian Institution.)<br />

The artist paints surrounded by petunias on her studio porch c. 1932<br />

and sports the swim attire of the day, c. 1920. (Photos West Virginia<br />

and Regional History Center)<br />

A Lazzell white-line print created for the WPA that features her studio<br />

pier, 1937. (Photo courtesy Library of Congress)<br />

So reported the Provincetown Advocate<br />

in 1940. For much of the artist<br />

Blanche Lazzell’s life, Provincetown<br />

was her happy place, and, tucked<br />

within it, an even happier spot, her<br />

bayside studio garden of boldly colored<br />

annuals. There, in a former storage<br />

shack that had housed fishing<br />

supplies, she was her most creative<br />

and productive. She began painting,<br />

printmaking, hooking rugs, and decorating<br />

porcelain pieces as soon as<br />

she arrived in town in 1915 to study<br />

with Charles Hawthorne.<br />

“The sea is wonderful to paint,”<br />

she wrote to her sister in that first<br />

year. “But don’t think or let anyone<br />

think I am here on a pleasure trip. I<br />

am getting pleasure out of very hard<br />

work. I am getting very encouraging<br />

criticisms. Mr. Hawthorne says, ‘go<br />

right on painting that way.’ ”<br />

Despite her somewhat conservative<br />

nature and upper-middle-class<br />

upbringing in the coal country of<br />

West Virginia where she was born in<br />

1878, Lazzell was very independent<br />

for the time, and as an early cubist,<br />

drawn to the new and novel in art. She<br />

studied with Fernand Léger and others<br />

at the Académie Moderne in Paris,<br />

making new American friends there<br />

who enticed her to settle afterwards<br />

in the new Cape Cod art colony.<br />

Frequent letters to her sisters reveal<br />

a woman who relished a sense of<br />

freedom she found on the Outer Cape.<br />

The other, near constant topic in her<br />

letters was her studio flower garden,<br />

especially her petunias, which she<br />

doted on as if they were beloved pets.<br />

“It is a beautiful day,” she reported to<br />

her sister in 1932. “We had a hard rain<br />

and storm last Friday. It melted every<br />

petunia blossom, but they are out<br />

again now…. It spoiled the marigolds.<br />

I still have snapdragons. The garden<br />

has been heavenly this summer. The<br />

petunias seem to be so human.”<br />

Lazzell was from a family of<br />

means but she had to live frugally on<br />

a small stipend most of her life. So,<br />

hers was a garden of economy: salvaged<br />

wooden containers, barrels,<br />

and lard tubs, all swathed in string<br />

fishing nets that hid her homespun<br />

construction techniques while providing<br />

maritime-themed trellising<br />

for morning glories and vining petunias,<br />

which she reported to her sister<br />

reached six feet tall.<br />

In 1927, she wrote to her niece,<br />

Frances Reed, “I am now waiting for<br />

Mr. Atkins the plumber to come to<br />

fix a water line & faucet in the garden<br />

— going to have it piped around<br />

the chimney. And when I get my<br />

next check, I’ll order a soft hose. My<br />

continued on page 22


22 | Provincetown Independent | BEACH / HOUSE | <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2024</strong><br />

The Art of Blanche Lazzell’s Flowers<br />

continued from page 21<br />

elbows are not strong enough to carry<br />

water another summer. I think that<br />

excuse is enough to have that convenience,<br />

don’t you?”<br />

To promote the sale of her artwork,<br />

Lazzell held classes and intimate<br />

teas at her studio where she<br />

served sponge cake, cream cheese and<br />

pimento sandwiches, and saltines with<br />

homemade beach plum jelly. “I have<br />

had four teas since the first of Sept.,”<br />

Lazzell wrote in a 1932 letter. “You<br />

see my teas cost very little. My flower<br />

seeds more than paid for them.”<br />

She harvested her seeds for sale<br />

as a side gig, especially her petunias<br />

with their almost cubist stripes, rays,<br />

veins, and splotches. “People everywhere<br />

are after my petunia seeds,”<br />

she wrote. “I am selling them for 35<br />

cents a package” — around $7 today.<br />

Hers were worth it, she explained:<br />

“Of course the package is not big but<br />

mine are bigger than the ones from<br />

the regular florists. And my seeds<br />

are more rare for they are my own<br />

culture.”<br />

Alongside these practical preoccupations,<br />

there was something<br />

almost mystical about the garden<br />

for Lazzell. “You feel, or what Mr.<br />

Hofmann says, ‘you experience’ the<br />

flowers, then your subconscious mind<br />

does the arrangement,” she wrote to<br />

her sister. “We must know and experience,<br />

feel to the depths of our soul, the<br />

flower, then we have this inner power<br />

to do things with it … That is art.”<br />

She knew of her value, and perhaps<br />

even her future importance as<br />

one of the earliest American abstract<br />

artists, especially as a woman. When<br />

needing to pay a tax bill in 1932,<br />

Lazzell urged her sister to sell some<br />

of her prints back in West Virginia.<br />

“This is a fine investment for anyone<br />

who has the money to spare. For<br />

these prints will be worth more than<br />

a hundred dollars before you know it<br />

and especially when I no longer make<br />

them,” she wrote. “And they are admired<br />

by the leading modern painters<br />

in this country and abroad.”<br />

“She’s definitely at the top of<br />

the pyramid now,” says Jim Bakker<br />

of Bakker Gallery in Provincetown.<br />

“It seems to me that she has eclipsed<br />

many of the male Provincetown artists<br />

who were more famous than she<br />

was during her lifetime, especially at<br />

auctions today. When you look at the<br />

other people working in the whiteline<br />

printing style, she had a big influence<br />

over many people who came<br />

after her.”<br />

Always as independent as she<br />

could possibly be, Blanche Lazzell<br />

lived in Provincetown until her death<br />

at 77 in 1956. In her later years, the<br />

garden declined, and her beloved<br />

wharf studio at 351C Commercial St.,<br />

which tragically escaped the attention<br />

of local preservationists, was<br />

demolished during a renovation by<br />

the new owners in 2002. “People in<br />

town at the time felt like its destruction<br />

somehow slipped through and<br />

shouldn’t have happened,” Bakker<br />

remembers.<br />

Lazzell lived in Provincetown on<br />

her own terms. Even if it wasn’t always<br />

easy, it was worth it — a sentiment<br />

many residents today would<br />

echo. “The thing is to live as simply as<br />

possible and do our own work,” she<br />

wrote to her sister in 1932 at the age<br />

of 54. “That is what I have done all<br />

along & that is what hurts my knees.<br />

It felt so good when I came back to<br />

town. Two yachts are out there with<br />

tall sails. The water is always so beautiful,<br />

and my work goes on. I have my<br />

painting & I am well. That much to be<br />

thankful for. Love to all, Blanche.”<br />

Marigolds, 1938, a white-line wood block print on loan to the Provincetown<br />

Art Association and Museum. Lazzell’s homegrown flowers provided endless<br />

opportunities for her explorations in abstraction. (Photo courtesy PAAM)<br />

‘I bought a dozen lovely petunias last week and<br />

set them out, one in a keg instead of three as I<br />

used to. The woman in the shop started to give<br />

me directions & explain why they were cut back.<br />

In turn, I explained to her why they should not<br />

be cut back and let her know that I have had 25<br />

years’ experience with fluffy petunias.’<br />

— Lazzell in a letter to her sister, June 25, 1945<br />

Lazzell wrote that she loved to share her petunias, both in bouquets for friends<br />

and to take to patients in the hospital. (Photo courtesy Archives of American Art,<br />

Smithsonian Institution)<br />

Looking from the end of Lazzell’s studio pier, now demolished, toward 351 Commercial St.,<br />

which was formerly a fire house. (Photo courtesy Provincetown History Project)<br />

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compass.com<br />

Compass is a licensed real estate broker and Kinlin Grover Realty Group, LLC is a licensed real estate broker affiliated with Compass and each abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled<br />

from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale, or withdrawal without notice. Photos may be virtually staged or digitally enhanced and may not reflect actual property conditions.


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2548 Route 6<br />

Wellfleet, MA 02667<br />

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