Illustrated Breed Standard

ASCA
ILLUSTRATED BREED
STANDARD
for the
Australian Shepherd
Drawings by
Shelly Hollen, Senior Breeder Judge
Text by
Gail Karamalegos, Senior Breeder Judge

“INTRODUCTION: First and foremost, the Australian Shepherd is a
true working stockdog, and anything that detracts from his usefulness
as such is undesirable. The most important breed characteristics are
overall moderation in size and bone, balance with correct proportions,
and sound movement.”
The first sections are perhaps the most important part of the standard, because they identify
the historic function and purpose of the breed. The emphasis here is on a functional, athletic,
medium-sized dog. Collectively, “medium/moderate” appear in the standard 14 times, so their
importance in describing and understanding the ideal Australian Shepherd ranks very high.
“Medium,” in this context, is defined as: 1. a middle state or condition. 2. something
intermediate in nature or degree. And “moderate” is defined as: 1. kept or keeping within
reasonable or proper limits; not extreme, excessive, or intense. 2. of medium quantity, extent,
or amount.

“GENERAL APPEARANCE: The Australian Shepherd is a wellbalanced
dog of medium size and bone. He is attentive and animated,
showing strength and stamina combined with unusual agility. Slightly
longer than tall, he has a coat of moderate length and coarseness with
coloring that offers variety and individuality in each specimen. An
identifying characteristic is his natural or docked bobtail. In each sex,
masculinity or femininity is well defined.”
Male
Female
“CHARACTER: The Australian Shepherd is primarily a working dog of
strong herding and guardian instincts. He is an intelligent, exceptional
companion. He is versatile and easily trained: performing his assigned
tasks with great style and enthusiasm. He is reserved with strangers
but does not exhibit shyness. This unusually versatile stockdog works
with the power and quickness to control difficult cattle as well as the
ability to move sheep without unnecessary roughness. Although an
aggressive, authoritative worker, viciousness toward people or
animals is intolerable.”
A dog whose purpose is to work a variety of livestock, needs to be as sound as possible--
mentally and physically. Moderate coat length allows for variance from a shorter summer coat
to a fuller winter coat, however an extremely short coat (with the exception of bitches losing
coat after puppies have been weaned) or long coat is not typical. This breed was developed
in the western and southwestern parts of the U.S., and the moderate, medium-textured coat is
one that protects and insulates best in a varied climate. The dictionary defines “reserved” as:
“having a tendency to emotional restraint and so appearing reticent or composed.” A reserved
dog is self-assured and restrained in its behavior around strangers. An intelligent dog of
strong guardian instincts is going to be naturally aloof with strangers. It is important to note

that this reserve is normal and appropriate for the breed. Breed Standards are written to
describe the overall ideal dog, and not just how a dog should appear and be judged in the
conformation ring.
“HEAD: The head is clean-cut, strong, dry, and in proportion to the
body. The topskull is flat to slightly rounded; its length and width each
equal to the length of the muzzle. The muzzle is of medium width and
depth and tapers gradually to a rounded tip, without appearing heavy
or snipey. Lips are close fitting, meeting at the mouthline. The toplines
of the muzzle and topskull appear close to parallel. The stop is
moderate but well defined.”
Head landmarks
Male head
Male head
Female head

Clean-cut, strong, and dry means without sharp angles, loose skin, heaviness, or a fragile
appearance. A strong muzzle will tolerate injuries better, and protects the teeth. Loose
lips/flews are also more prone to injury. The Australian Shepherd’s head needs to have a
bone structure that is conducive to deflecting a hoof, hence the need for a moderate stop.
This breed’s working heritage necessitates a clean cut head that has the appearance of
smooth transition from one part to another, with no harsh angles or heaviness. This is a
functional head which allows the dog to avoid injury when working. Flying hooves tend to
glance off a clean-cut head, rather than catching on prominent bony structures. Dogs with
heavier bone structure also tend toward heavier muscle and more skin. This is highly visible
in the head, as the muzzle will often have flews rather than the nice, tightly fitted lips that an
Aussie should have.
Figure A
Figure B
Dog A's muzzle is somewhat snipey, whereas dog B is completely lacking in breed type, with
multiple head faults-- extreme stop, loose flews/lips, oversized ears with low ear set on the
skull, muzzle too short, open haws (drooping lower eyelid), loose skin, round topskull, and
generalized coarseness.
“TEETH: A full complement of strong white teeth meet in a scissors
bite. A level bite is a fault. Teeth broken or missing by accident are not
penalized. All other missing teeth should be faulted to the degree that
they deviate from a full complement of 42 teeth.
Disqualifications: Undershot bite, Overshot bite, Wry Mouth”

Scissor bite with full dentition is the strongest bite for gripping and which
protects the jaws and prevents wear on the teeth.

Level bite is acceptable, but “faulted because it is functional in terms of grip,
although weaker than the scissors bite. With the even bite, there is more
wear on the teeth as well as a tendency toward more breakage of the teeth.”
(Standard Annotations, 1975)
Level bite, front and side view

Dropped lower center incisors are relatively common in Australian
Shepherds, and while the loss of contact with the upper incisors is often
slight, it can worsen with age and can affect the health of the bite occlusion
in the front if those lower incisors drop lower and tip forward. The Breed
Standard does not address dropped incisors, but the condition is addressed
here due to its occurrence in the breed and frequent confusion with the level
or undershot bite.
Malocclusions (abnormal alignment of the teeth and/or jaws) such as the
following disqualifications are harmful to the health of the dog, and often
require veterinary dentistry.
Overshot

Undershot profile and front

Wry mouth can be difficult to see if it's not severe. It is a skeletal
malocclusion in which one side of the jaw grows differently from the other
side, and it is a serious inherited defect resulting in the midline of the upper
and lower jaws being off center. This defect can result in the misaligned
teeth causing damage to the soft tissues in the mouth, difficulty eating, and
pain.

“EYES: The eyes are very expressive, showing attentiveness and
intelligence. They are clear, almond-shaped, of moderate size, and set
a little obliquely, neither prominent nor sunken. The pupils are dark,
well-defined, and perfectly positioned. Eye color is brown, blue,
amber, or any variation or combination, including flecks and marbling.
All eye colors are acceptable in combination with all coat colors.
Faults: Any deviation from almond-shaped eyes.”
Almond eye
Round eyes are a fault that is not uncommon in this breed. This type of eye is more
prone to injury, rather than the almond eye that is protected by the bone surrounding
the eye socket. Pigmentation of the eye rims is also important in a breed which works
in the sun. A round eye is more prone to injury in dense cover and when a dog is
working livestock, due to the decreased protection resulting from the eyeball protruding
more from the skull. A medium-sized, almond shaped eye is set deeper in the skull, and
is therefore less likely to be damaged. Eyes set obliquely will give the dog a larger field
of vision than eyes set on the front of the skull.

Correct almond eye shape and position on the skull.
Round eyes
Drooping eyelids

“EARS: The ears are set high on the side of the head, are triangular, of
moderate size and slightly rounded at the tip. The tip of the ear
reaches to, but not further than, the inside corner of the nearest eye.
At full attention, the ears should lift from one-quarter (¼) to one-half
(½) above the base and break forward or slightly to the side.
Severe Faults: Prick ears; overly large ears; low set ears with no lift
from the base.”
“Set” pertains to where the base of the ear attaches to the skull, and not to where the ear
leather breaks or how the ears are carried. Working dogs need the advantage of being able
to have the best hearing possible. Correct, high ear set and type allows for good hearing,
prevents dirt and debris from getting into the ear canal, and imparts that wonderful “look of
eagles” that is so desirable in the expression. Large hanging ears severely detract from breed
type, are more prone to infections, and are frequently indicative of an overall coarse dog with
loose skin. Being a soft-eared breed, Aussies will often have what is commonly referred to as
a rose ear.

The following 4 examples are all correct, acceptable ears, with no preference
stated in the Breed Standard.
Ears breaking ½ above the base
Ears breaking ¼ above the base
Ears breaking to the side
Ears breaking unequally

Overly large, low set ears
Ears which are severe faults:
Prick ears
“NECK AND BODY: The neck is firm, clean, and in proportion to the
body. It is of medium length and slightly arched at the crest, setting
well into the shoulders. The body is firm and muscular. The topline
appears level at a natural four-square stance. The bottom line carries
well back with a moderate tuck-up. The chest is deep and strong with
ribs well sprung. The loin is strong and broad when viewed from the
top. The croup is moderately sloping. The Tail is straight, not to
exceed four (4) inches, natural bobtail or docked.”
Length of neck is somewhat dependent upon shoulder layback. Dogs with upright shoulder
blades will appear to be shorter in neck, and by the same token, dogs with good scapular
layback will have longer necks. The Australian Shepherd’s medium length neck is the most
functional for the breed’s purpose. It is long enough to provide flexibility and to assist with
turning the body quickly in any direction, yet strong enough to support the head for long hours
of work. When working or engaging in athletic activities, dogs “lead” with their heads, and
then the front assembly responds by pulling the dog in the direction that the head is leading.
Moderate slope to the croup is necessary as it allows for balanced forward reach of the
hindquarters to drive the dog forward when trotting and running.

Body outline inside coat outline

“FOREQUARTERS: The shoulder blades (scapula) are well laid back,
with the upper arm (humerus) slightly longer than the shoulder blade.
Both the upper arm and shoulder blade are well muscled. The forelegs
are straight and strong, perpendicular to the ground, with moderate
bone. The point of the elbow is set under the withers and is
equidistant from the withers to the ground. Pasterns are short, thick,
and strong, but still flexible, showing a slight angle when viewed from
the side. Feet are oval shaped, compact, with close knit, well-arched
toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails short and strong. Dewclaws
may be removed.”
Well-laid back shoulders are approximately 30-35 degrees from vertical, or 55-60 degrees
from horizontal. Steep shoulders generally cause a lack of reach, rolling across the withers,
and less ability of the front assembly to absorb shock. A 30-degree (from vertical) slope to the
pastern is found to be the strongest and yet still allow for flexibility and tolerance of hard
surface work. Without the shock absorption of flexible pasterns, gait is typically choppy and
lacks the effortlessness that's important in a working dog. It's also to prevent injury to the
pastern which can occur when a dog knuckles over on impact.

Front pasterns absorbing shock by flexing when landing a jump.
Other foot types that should be faulted are round cat feet, splayed feet, and hare feet. As an
all-round working dog, Aussies must have good, strong, tight, oval feet. The Aussie is an
upright breed when working, which essentially means that the position of comfort is going to
be with the head up, level with or slightly above the topline, rarely dropping below the topline
for sustained periods. The front assembly is responsible for supporting the front half of the
dog, which is roughly 60% of the dog's body weight, and for pulling the dog in whichever
direction he wants to go. Legs should be straight, with no turning in or out, as a straight
column of support is the strongest and less prone to injury.
Round foot
Flat/hare foot

Structural faults in the front:
Elbowing out/legs turning in
Elbowing in/narrow front/
legs turning out
Fiddle front/weak pasterns
Wide front

“HINDQUARTERS: Width of hindquarters is approximately equal to the width of
the forequarters at the shoulder. The angulation of the pelvis and upper thigh
(femur) corresponds to the angulation of the shoulder blade and upper arm. The
upper and lower thigh are well muscled. Stifles are clearly defined; hock joints
moderately bent. The metatarsi are short, perpendicular to the ground, and
parallel to each other when viewed from the rear. Feet are oval shaped, compact,
with close-knit, well-arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails short and
strong. Rear dewclaws are removed.”
Too much or too little angulation in the rear affects movement, speed, agility, power, and
overall balance. The Aussie is primarily an upright working dog, therefore angulation should
be moderate, which allows for overall agility and quickness. When viewed from the rear, the
legs should drop straight down from the hip joints, so as to provide the soundest support and
to decrease the potential for injury to the hock joints. The rear assembly is the drive train for
propelling the dog forward.

Examples of hindquarter faults:
Barrel/open hocks Cow hocks Narrow rear
COAT: The coat is of medium length and texture, straight to slightly wavy, and
weather resistant. The undercoat varies in quantity with climate. Hair is short
and smooth on the head, outside of ears, front of forelegs, and below the hocks.
Backs of forelegs are moderately feathered and breeches are moderately full.
There is a moderate mane, more pronounced in dogs than bitches. The
Australian Shepherd is a working dog and is to be shown with a natural coat.
Severe Faults: Non-typical coats such as excessively long;
overabundant/profuse; wiry; or curly.
The Aussie is a double-coated breed. An overly soft, silky, or cottony coat is less weatherresistant
and is difficult to care for, with a tendency to hold water and to mat and collect
debris. An excessively long coat is very incorrect, and trimming it off for the show ring doesn’t
make it correct. The Australian Shepherd is a working dog intended to work under a variety of
weather and terrain conditions which requires enough coat to provide protection but not so
long or soft to hamper the dog in the brush or the heat. Reflecting the rugged working nature
of the breed, trimming beyond cleaning and a general neatening is discouraged.

Correct moderate coat
Slightly wavy coat-- also correct

Coat after seasonal or post-whelp shedding
Excessive, faulty coat

COLOR: All colors are strong, clear and rich. The recognized colors are blue
merle, red (liver) merle, solid black, and solid red (liver) all with or without white
markings and/or tan (copper) points with no order of preference. The blue merle
and black have black pigmentation on nose, lips and eye-rims. Reds and red
merles have liver pigmentation on nose, lips and eye rims. Butterfly nose should
not be faulted under one year of age. On all colors the areas surrounding the
ears and eyes are dominated by color other than white. The hairline of a white
collar does not exceed the point at the withers.
Disqualifications: Other than recognized colors. White body splashes. Dudley
nose.
Butterfly nose is defined as "a partially unpigmented nose; dark, spotted with flesh color."
Dudley nose is defined as a "flesh-colored nose," and as an "unpigmented nose." The
piebald spotting gene does occur in the Australian Shepherd, and can occur in solids as well
as merles. Due to the potentially unsound conditions (auditory and visual impairments) that
can occur in homozygous merles, it’s important to limit white in this breed. Nose pigment
tends to fill in as puppies mature, but sometimes incompletely. Full nose pigmentation is
desirable in mature dogs. Because of the merle coloration, dogs with pink spots on the nose
are fairly common, but this is not ideal. Lack of pigmentation results in sunburn, and a dog
that has to stay out of the sun is not a useful working dog OR companion.
Fully pigmented black and liver noses

Butterfly nose fault Dudley nose disqualification
The following photos show the variety of correct markings
and coat colors that occur in the breed:
Solid black
Black bicolor (no tan/copper)

Black tricolors with rich copper and acceptable white trim
Blue merle with minimal white and no copper/tan points

Blue merles with larger areas of black base color and copper/tan and white trim.
Blue merle with minimal solid patches
Blue merle with light tan trim

Red bi Red tri with minimal white
Red tri
Red bi with minimal white

Red merles with copper/tan and white trim
Red merle with white trim
Red merle with copper/tan and white trim

“GAIT: Smooth, free, and easy, exhibiting agility of movement with a wellbalanced
natural stride. As speed increases, both front and rear feet converge
equally toward the centerline of gravity beneath the body. The top line remains
firm and level. When viewed from the side the trot is effortless, exhibiting facility
of movement rather than a hard driving action. Exaggerated reach and drive at
the trot are not desirable. Gait faults shall be penalized according to the degree
of deviation from the ideal.”
Paramount to the movement of this breed is that it should be effortless and efficient, with no
wasted energy. Facility of movement is meant to be a fluid, smooth way of moving with
seemingly not much effort involved and not a great deal of speed-- just enough to do the job
of getting from point A to point B. This type of gait is enduring and allows for quick changes of
direction and speed when necessary. The reach of the front and drive of the rear should be in
balance to one another. Feet should be kept close to the ground, even at maximum
extension. Convergence going and coming should be equal, with the front and rear legs
straight, and with pasterns/feet turning neither in nor out. When viewed from the rear, you
should be able to see the pads of the feet when lifted off the ground, but the pads should not
be “looking at the sky”. Balanced foot-timing is highly desirable, and is the hallmark of a dog
that truly appears that he could go all day. They need to be able to do the job, be quick on
their feet, and perform the tasks at hand.
Correct, balanced sidegait and foot timing. This would be the maximum reach/drive to
be efficient-- less is acceptable and not to be faulted, as long as front/rear action is
balanced. A hard driving action is not desirable.

Correct convergence of front and rear when trotting, with legs in a straight line from
the shoulders and pelvis to the feet. Convergence is important as it allows the dog to
turn very quickly when working and moving.
Gait faults:
Overreaching, which is inefficient, and tiring to a working dog.

Unbalanced gait due to structural faults.
Pacing occurs when the front and rear legs on the same side move in unison, instead
of a reciprocal manner. It is not a fault, unless the dog paces excessively instead of
trotting. Many dogs will pace when fatigued.

“SIZE: Preferred height at the withers for males is 20 to 23 inches; that for
females is 18 to 21 inches, however, quality is not to be sacrificed in favor of
size.”
This section uses the term PREFERRED when describing the ideal height ranges. For the
type of work that this breed should be physically capable of performing, medium size is the
most functional. A 25-inch tall Aussie is not a medium-sized dog. This breed should be
compact and quick on its feet, and oversized dogs simply cannot move as quickly or turn as
sharply as a more moderate sized dog. Coarseness is also indicative of a dog that lacks
moderation.

Male and female size comparison