Adventure Magazine

adventure
where actions speak louder than words
where actions speak louder than words
CELEBRATING
WOMEN
ISSUE 245
Aug/Sep 2024
NZ $11.90 incl. GST

An Annual Tradition
Celebrating Women in Adventure
Adventure Magazine is dedicated to the thrill-seekers, the
explorers, and the boundary-pushers who redefine what it
means to live life to the fullest.
Each year, we devote a special edition to celebrating
women in adventure. This tradition stems from a profound
commitment to highlight the remarkable achievements of
women in a field historically dominated by men, ensuring
their stories are heard and their contributions recognized.
Women have always been at the forefront of exploration and
adventure, yet their stories often go untold. By dedicating
an entire issue to women, we aim to correct this imbalance,
bringing their incredible feats to the limelight.
Moreover, featuring women adventurers inspires the next
generation. Young girls and women who read these stories see
role models they can relate to, fostering a sense of possibility and
ambition.
It’s not just about recognising past achievements but also about
inspiring future ones. Representation matters and showcasing
diverse voices in adventure can ignite the spark of exploration in
many who might otherwise feel excluded or overlooked.
Steve Dickinson
Editor
From mountaineers conquering the highest peaks to sailing
seas, women adventurers continuously push the boundaries
of human endurance and spirit. This issue is our tribute to
their tenacity, courage, and unyielding passion.
your Adventure starts with Us
22 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

BEHIND THE COVER (CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE)
Anna Pixner: The Downhill Dynamo
Anna isn't just a professional downhill skateboarder;
she's a force of nature. Hailing from Innsbruck, Austria,
Anna blazes a trail across the globe with a mission to
inspire. She wants you to pursue your dreams, embrace
movement, and protect the environment. (p.14)
Jane Kanizay: The Everest Educator
Jane is an adventurer, educator, activist, speaker, artist,
and mother of four. On May 14, 2022, she achieved
an extraordinary feat by successfully climbing Mount
Everest with her 19-year-old daughter. Jane's story
is a testament to resilience, determination, and the
unbreakable bond between mother and daughter (p.46)
Mariana "Maki" Shaw: The Captivating Lens
Originally from Argentina, Mariana "Maki" Shaw has
taken on the ambitious task of capturing the essence
of New Zealand through her unique photographic lens.
With a passion for the natural environment, Maki seizes
moments and shares them with the world, carving out
her place in outdoor photography. (p.24)
Karen Koens: The Pacific Pathfinder
Karen has been a friend of Adventure for as long as
we can remember. Karen's adventurous spirit knows
no bounds as she charts her own course across the
vast, blue expanse of the Pacific Ocean, relying on her
resourcefulness and a touch of digital navigation. (p.20)
Adventure Magazine's Women's Issue celebrates their
extraordinary journeys and the indomitable spirit that
drives them.
EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER
Steve Dickinson
Mob: 027 577 5014
steve@pacificmedia.co.nz
ART DIRECTOR
Lynne Dickinson
design@pacificmedia.co.nz
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BREAKING NEWS~KIWI’S SOPHIE HART AND NATHAN FA’AVAE TO
COMPETE IN YUKON1000
Adventure racing legends Sophie Hart and Nathan Fa’avae are
set to embark on an extraordinary journey as they compete in the
2024 Yukon1000, starting from Whitehorse, Canada, on July 12th.
Racing as Team Avaya, they will tackle one of the world’s toughest
endurance challenges, paddling 1000 miles along the Yukon River
to the finish in Alaska.
About the Yukon1000
“The Yukon1000 lives up to its name as a 1000-mile paddling race
starting in Whitehorse, Canada, and spanning the Yukon River
all the way to Alaska,” explains Fa’avae. “Participants must be
self-supported for up to 10 days, carrying all their food, gear, and
camping equipment since stopping for resupply is not allowed,
despite passing through a few towns along the route. The race
accommodates double kayaks and canoes. In 2024, over 6000
teams applied to compete, but only 30 were accepted, making our
spot in the race feel incredibly fortunate.”
Challenges Ahead
“Our biggest challenge is that neither of us has done this
race before. There’s always so much to learn from a first-time
experience. We’re approaching it with some uncertainty, but we’re
experienced in multi-day racing, so we shouldn’t encounter too
many surprises. Sophie and I make an exceptionally strong team,
so I’m confident we’ll handle any challenges effectively. As for
conditions, the water will be cold, but the summer air should be
warm, with almost 24 hours of daylight. The bugs on land, like flies,
mosquitoes, and midges, can be intense—I’ve raced in Canada
before and they’re on another level. They’ll definitely motivate us to
transition quickly from the kayak to the tent. Additionally, there’s a
risk of bear encounters, so we need to take sensible precautions.
Moose have also been known to cause issues for people in the
Yukon in the past. Being in the kayak for 18 hours a day will present
new challenges in terms of comfort and managing nutrition and
toileting. Navigation could also be tricky since we’re unfamiliar
with the river. There are areas where the river valley is 10 km
wide with multiple braids and channels. We have maps and
GPS, but having some prior knowledge would certainly help
with navigation.”
Expected Conditions
“The temperature should be quite pleasant, with daytime
highs around 22ºC and overnight lows dropping to about 8ºC.
Showers are expected each day, with frequent cloud cover.
No major rainfall is anticipated during this time of year. Based
on information available, it was a dry winter, resulting in less
snow in the mountains to melt. Parts of the Yukon River did
not freeze over, suggesting the river’s flow is likely to be lower
to normal.”
Keep up to date with their progress at
www.adventuremagazine.co.nz
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A year on from his historic climb, Hari
Budha Magar, the Guinness World Records
recognised world's first double above knee
amputee to summit Everest, launches his bid
to climb the highest peak on each continent.
The multi record breaking climber from
Canterbury, wanted to take his message
of "no legs, no limits" around the world,
inspiring people everywhere that a disability
and weakness shouldn't limit your ability to
achieve their dreams.
He aims to take this inspirational message
"on tour" by climbing the highest peak in all
seven continents.
About his next challenge, Hari said;
"Limitations are put on those with a disability
all the time. Yet most of the time a disability
is not life limiting, it shouldn't stop us from
chasing our dreams. It's all about adaptation.
"Through my challenges, I want to raise
awareness of disability and positively
change the way people with disabilities
are perceived and how they perceive
themselves.
"Having done this in Nepal and in the
UK where I live - I now want to take this
lifechanging message around the world. The
best way to do that is to take my story to
them. To climb the seven highest summits
on the seven continents."
Having already climbed three of the peaks
(Mt. Blanc (4,810m) in August 2019, Mt.
Kilimanjaro (5,895m) in January 2020 and
Mt. Everest (8,849m) in May 2023, Hari will
next tackle North America's highest peak
Denali (6,190m).
To complete the challenge, Hari plans
to then climb Puncak Jaya (4,884m) in
Oceania, Aconcagua (6,961m) in South
America and then finish with Mt. Vinson
(4,892m) in Antarctica. He hopes to
complete all seven peaks by early 2026.
Originally from Nepal, Hari served for 15
years in the British Army's Gurkha regiment,
before losing both of his legs to the an
improvised explosive device (IED) bomb in
Afghanistan in 2010.
His recovery was long and hard taking Hari
to the brink of mental and physical health. It
was to be a skydive, organised by veterans
charity Battle Back, that helped build his
confidence and set him on a journey to
recovery and inspiration to so many.
Hari has also set numerous world records
on other mountains, has kayaked around the
Isle of Wight, completed multiple skydives,
paraglided, bungee jumped and competed
internationally as a para-skier and golfer;
as well as also becoming the first person
to reach Everest base camp with prosthetic
legs (Genium X3s) in 2022.
In order to complete these challenges Hari
needs to raise additional sponsorship and
funding. He has launched an appeal at https://
www.crowdfunder.co.uk/p/hbm7summits to
raise funds to enable his upcoming climb and
the positive affects it will generate.
Hari is currently supported by Team
Forces, Ottobock, Barratt Developments
and Branding Science.During his climb,
Hari will be raising funds for the Gurkha
Welfare Trust, On Course Foundation,
Pilgrim Bandits, BLESMA and Team Forces
Foundation who have been instrumental in
helping Veterans in the UK.
To donate to his charitable appeal, visit
www.haribudhamagar.com.

BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA

Erica Gatland
The Climbing Trailblazer
by Derek Cheng
Pics by Derek Cheng and Derek Thatcher
There was a time when it was mainly
just Erica Gatland and the boulder
bros.
The Christchurch-based veterinarian
has been climbing since she was 9
years old, but her bouldering exploits
have put her head and shoulders
above all Kiwi women boulderers.
She's the first Kiwi woman to climb
V10, V11 and V12, grades staunch
enough to put her in an elite category
by the time she turned 20.
Most of her climbing days back then
were spent with the boys because there
was a dearth of other women willing or
wanting to try what she was trying. It's a
scenario that often left her near the top
of a high, scary boulder with arms too
short to span the holds.
"The boys are always trying big, hard,
scary rigs, and they just have no clue
of what it's like to be my size, and they
just can't fathom how I would do a
move," she says.
"The number of times I've been
sandbagged on a big, scary top-out
because the boys have said, 'Oh,
it's easy. It's all jugs.' And they're not
wrong, but they're just really far apart
and I can't reach them. That's quite
scary when you're five metres off the
deck."
But it also improved her climbing
because she had to rely on no one but
herself to work out what to do.
"Being able to figure out beta is a skill.
Not everyone has it. It definitely makes
you a better climber."
It also taught her to be less fearful
about failing in front of a crowd. The
alternative to trying was to sit on the
sidelines and twiddle her thumbs.
Back then there was about one woman
climber for every 10 guys, but she
reckons it's more like 40 per cent
women. Climbing has exploded in
popularity - it's now in the Olympics for
the second time this year - and a new
cohort of strong women are nipping at
Erica's heels.
Last year, Erica was even dethroned at
the National Indoor Bouldering Series
(NIBS) competition in Christchurch,
not that she feels threatened: "There
are way more women in the sport now,
which I think is awesome."
The 26-year-old was perhaps always
destined to pull on rock climbing
shoes. Her father Chris was president
of the Auckland Sport Climbing Club,
and she followed older brother Chase
- a strong climber in his own right -
into the sport, sparking some healthy
sibling rivalry.
She was part of the climbing club at
the local gym in Birkenhead, but it
wasn't until she climbed her first grade
26 sport climb, at Waipari crag near
Hamilton, that her brother goaded her
into taking the sport more seriously.
Erica Gatland on Mobius (V7) in Castle Hill Basin. Photo / Derek Thatcher
8//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

Erica Gatland won the Christchurch leg of the National Indoor Bouldering Series this year. Photo / Derek Thatcher
"He told me that climbing a 26 qualified
me for an 8a account (an online climbers'
database that ranks climbers), and that's
when I created an account and started
logging my climbs to get my points up."
It was around this time that she started
topping podiums at indoor climbing
competitions, including the under-18
female Oceania Championships in
2013, when she was only 14. She then
represented New Zealand in the World
Youth Championships in 2014 and 2015.
After finishing high school, though,
she took a different path: a year off to
travel and climb all over North America,
including the granite boulders and cliffs
in Canada's Squamish, and the famous
sandstone cracks of the desert in Utah.
This introduced her to dirtbag life, living
out of a van, stretching every dollar as far
as possible, and maximising climb-time.
It was also the first time she dabbled
in trad climbing, a particular discipline
where you carry all your protective gear
on your harness and place them in the
rockface as you climb. You have to trust
that your placements will hold because
you might end up falling on them.
"I learned to crack climb in Squamish. It
was painful, but I loved it," she says.
"Obviously it's pretty scary to trust your
gear, and the learning curve was quite
steep. But I got really excited because I
was learning a new skill and becoming
a beginner again. I went from climbing
grade 16 crack climbs to grade 24
within two weeks. It was fun to see the
progression."
The following year she had a taste of the
IFSC Climbing World Championships in
Innsbruck, Austria: "It was my first year of
vet school and I almost failed my exams."
Cue five years as a student, though she
unsurprisingly planned as many of her
work placements as possible to be near
climbing hotspots. Proximity to climbing
also played a role in her starting work as
a qualified vet in Christchurch, which is
near her favourite climbing place in the
world: Castle Hill Basin.
The limestone boulders often present
unique challenges: blank slabs of
dimpled rock between pockets or tiny
crimps in the stone where body position,
as much as strength, is the key to
success.
And it's often difficult just to reach the
first pocket, especially for the likes of
Erica, who is only 160cm tall and often
needs a creative solution to reach the
initial holds, such as standing on a
precariously-balanced deck chair.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//11

"It's pretty fun finding new things
and making them work. You don't
know beforehand if it's climbable. "
Many of the top-outs are famously -
or infamously - rounded and blank,
and climbers who don't know any
better end up rock-humping their
way higher.
"Whenever I do a humping top-out,
I usually get a bit disappointed
in myself because it means I've
climbed it poorly," she says.
"It's usually when the top is dusty
or slightly damp and you're a bit
scared, so you just try and get as
much surface area as possible on
the rock because you don't want to
slip off. It's desperate. You never
really feel good about it afterwards,
but it's pretty funny."
It was at Castle Hill, five years ago,
where she climbed her first V9, V10,
and the V12 problem called Moby
Dick in Flock Hill (one section of the
wider basin). The latter has been
unsuccessfully attempted by a bunch
of professional climbers including
Chris Sharma and Niky Ceria.
The problem felt impossible to her
to start with, and required such
flexibility in her hips that they were
sore for days after she climbed it.
Last year she added another V10 to
her climbing résumé, and this year
she is looking forward to seeing
what she can do, having had more
time to train than when she was
studying.
She regained the Christchurch NIBS
throne this year, and still wants to
climb V15 one day, a grade that
only seven women around the world
have ever climbed.
But she's also not so singularly
focused. Recently she's been
fascinated with the process of
putting up new boulder problems,
and has established several new
climbs at Castle Hill up to V6.
"It's pretty fun finding new things
and making them work. You don't
know beforehand if it's climbable.
It's often so blank and the holds are
not obvious," she says.
"It's actually a challenge figuring
out what to clean, where to put your
foot, which way your body position
should be on this move.
"And sometimes you'll clean
something and imagine you'll
climb it one way, and then you'll
do it completely differently. It's
also a nice feeling when people
enjoy climbing your new boulder
problem."
She's also become an advocate for
the sport, having been on the board
of the Aotearoa Climbing Access
Trust since its inception.
In 2022, with other leading women
climbers in Christchurch, she led
a "Ladies Crushing" weekend in
Castle Hill with a dozen participants
who spent the Matariki weekend
sharing beta and camaraderie in a
group free of any Y chromosome
energy. Similar weekends were
held last year and this year, and will
be held again next year.
"It's my way of trying to give back to
the community, sharing some of my
knowledge and my experience to
get more people psyched."
No other Kiwi women have climbed
V10 yet, but Erica says there are
many who are on the cusp.
"It's nice climbing with other
ladies who are a similar size. We
can share beta or actually figure
out beta together. There's a few
in Christchurch who are strong
crushers," she says.
"I'm just trying to encourage people
to give everything a go and push
themselves more. Maybe they think
something's too hard for them. Just
give it a go because you might
surprise yourself."
"The more I climb there, the more I
realise that the grades don't matter.
What matters is your experience on
the climb."
Erica Gatland in the Gertrude Valley, Fiordland. Photo / Derek Chengr
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//13

Skating Faster
Anna Pixner
Images by Rod Soares
Anna Pixner is not just a professional downhill
skateboarder; she's a force of nature. Originally
from Innsbruck, Austria, Anna travels the world on
a passionate mission to inspire others to pursue
their dreams, embrace movement, and protect the
environment. "I just can't stand being inside buildings
or sitting on chairs – so I decided to skate faster than
anyone else and turn that into my profession," she
explains with characteristic fervor.
While Sydney serves as her current homebase,
Innsbruck remains her spiritual anchor, where her
deep-rooted connection to family and the mountains
nurtured her unwavering drive to reach the pinnacle
of her pursuits. Beyond skating, Anna finds solace
and inspiration in the ocean's embrace, where she
indulges in surfing, swimming, and the meditative
tranquility of coastal living. Surrounded by creative
souls, she thrives in an environment that fosters both
artistic expression and personal growth.
Ask Anna's close friends, and they'd describe her
as relentlessly enthusiastic about life, especially
when immersed in the outdoors. They might even
affectionately label her as "crazy," a trait she shares
with her adventurous circle of friends.
Anna's achievements as the fastest downhill female
in Austria are not just about speed; they symbolize
breaking barriers and inspiring others, particularly
women, to overcome their fears and excel in their
own endeavors. Her hope is to ignite a fire in others,
encouraging them to push beyond limits and discover
their own paths to greatness.
"I really hope though, that what I’m
doing inspires a lot of other women
out there, to push beyond their fears
to a similar degree."
What does it mean you are the fastest downhill female in
Austria? I guess it means that I go faster on a skateboard,
than any other woman in my home country does. I really hope
though, that what I’m doing inspires a lot of other women out
there, to push beyond their fears to a similar degree.
What inspired you to start speed downhill skating, and
how did you get into the sport? I wanted to skate since
I was a child, but I was too shy to go to a skatepark. At the
age of 15 I bought myself a longboard and started using it
every day to skate to school. There was only one downhill
skateboarder in my hometown, who sometimes skated close
to my house. When I first saw that, it looked like a miracle
to me how someone could go that fast on a simple piece of
wood with wheels. I was very curious to find out how that
feels.
What is it that you do? Explain to someone who has no
idea? I do race sometimes, but my favourite way of skating is
to “freeride”. The difference is, that in racing we do everything
to go as fast as possible. Everyone is wearing a tight leather
suit to be aerodynamic, riding grippy wheels, and we race
each other down mountain roads in groups of 4 riders. In
“Freeriding” though, it’s more about skating the road in a
creative way, and about different techniques of sliding. Here
the challenge is to hold difficult slides - not putting hands
on the ground – which makes it a lot harder to balance. I
never cared too much to compete against other people, I
think I just don’t really have much of a drive to proof that I
can be better than someone else. I’m a humble person, but
really perfectionist. So I think my biggest drive comes from
competing against myself, constantly pushing my own limits
and proving to myself that I can do things, that seemed to be
impossible at first.
Can you describe the feeling of racing down a hill at top
speeds? It sounds crazy, but even though we are going at
high speeds, for me it’s like a meditation. I get so focused
when I skate at high speed, that there is no room for any
other thought. It’s intense, and before I start I’m still nervous
sometimes, but in the moment itself it’s a very relaxing feeling.
Vanlife in the Portuguese mountains
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

"I think the biggest challenge is to stay safe and
injury free. Since the roads we skate are usually
open to traffic as well, we have to organize
ourselves in groups, and communicate well."
What are some of the most challenging
aspects of speed-downhill skating?
I think the biggest challenge is to stay
safe and injury free. Since the roads we
skate are usually open to traffic as well,
we have to organize ourselves in groups,
and communicate well. On narrow roads
I always skate with Walkie Talkies, and I
only really push my limits when I know that
the road is clear.
To avoid getting injured I’m sticking to a
training plan and going to the gym 6/7
days per week. Still, there are always
unexpected things that could happen, but
I believe to be physically strong and to
practice meditation can at least prepare
the body and mind to react the best way
possible in dangerous situations.
How do you prepare mentally and
physically for a race or a shoot?
Whether it’s for a race or not, I always
give my best at the gym and try to reach
my top form physically. Also, by sticking to
a vegetarian diet, that is rich in vitamins,
iron and protein. Mentally, I prepare a lot
by visualizing. I watch videos of myself
and other people skating, I meditate for
a longer time than usual and I try to see
myself performing well, while I meditate.
What type of gear and equipment do
you use, and why is it essential for your
performance and safety? I’m lucky
to have access to the best material
on the market. As I am supported with
equipment from TSG, Powell Peralta,
Rayne Longboards and Valkyrie Trucks,
I definitely don’t have to worry about the
gear. And in a dangerous sport like this,
when you are aiming to push the limits
even more than others, it’s a must to be
able to trust in your gear. Also, talking
about safety – I couldn’t be more glad to
get the best and most recent protective
gear on the market. Especially after I had
a severe accident some years ago, I value
that more than anything.
What has been your most memorable
race or achievement in your skating
career? To be honest my most memorable
achievement was to come back 100%
after my worst accident. Nothing is as
rewarding as overcoming your own fears,
not even winning a World Championship.
What happens when it goes wrong
-Have you ever had any close calls or
accidents while skating, and how did
you handle them? Yes, this accident I
have mentioned just now was a crash into
a guardrail, in the middle of the Israeli
desert. I broke two vertebrae, 4 rips and
punctured my lung in that crash. I couldn’t
breathe, and couldn’t feel my legs for a
moment, which was for sure the most
scary thing I’ve ever experienced. Coming
back to skate was a tough journey, going
through panic attacks, a lot of physical
pain and self-doubts. One of my therapies
was writing about this experience, in an
article that got published in a German
book featuring female extreme sports
athletes, called “Aus Eigener Kraft-
Women Power”. But I also put in a lot of
work into physical and mental training,
and studying different methods of trauma
therapy, and I had amazing people helping
and supporting me in difficult times.
What goes through your mind as you're
about to start a descent? Usually I focus
my thoughts on the present moment. I
think about the road that I’m going to skate
and where I'm going to slide. I enjoy my
surroundings, and take a closer look at the
nature.
Is it harder for women to get into
downhill skating? I think it is, because
it’s not as inviting for most women, to start
a sport in men-only groups. And in a lot of
places, the community is still 100% male.
Anyways, for both men and women it’s
not an easy sport to start, because it’s
tricky to find a place to practice. It can be
dangerous, and also a bit embarrassing
at the start. You fall a lot, rip your pants,
and it mostly just looks funny when you
are learning how to slide. Doing that
as the only woman in a group of guys,
is definitely not the most comfortable
situation to put yourself in.
I had a lot of self-doubts in the beginning,
and was feeling shy to practice around
others. And I can see, that a lot of other
women are feeling self-conscious too
when they start.
Do you have role models or inspirations
within the skating community? To be
honest my inspiration comes a lot from
surfers and street skaters. I love watching
athletes who move in a unique way. But
one downhill skater who has been a role
model for me since a few years is my
friend Luis “Porkito”. He used to be a
professional bodyboarder, and was one of
the first guys who paddled out in Nazare’s
big waves. Skating downhill with him
pushes me a lot, because he just has such
a different perception of fear. It almost
feels like, being afraid is not an option for
him. Learning from that mindset - that you
can do anything if you are physically and
mentally strong enough - has given me a
lot of motivation.
What advice would you give women to
someone interested in starting speed
downhill skating? Just don’t care what
other people think of you. When learning
to skate downhill, you should do it just for
yourself, for the feeling and the fun. If you
care too much about how it looks or how
quickly you improve, it can be frustrating.
Just have fun, and take it as the best
lesson to free your mind.
What would Anna today tell younger
Ann just getting into the sport – what
advice would you give your younger
self? I would tell my younger self exactly
that – not to give a f*** what people think.
At the beginning I was so self-conscious,
that I got more nervous from practicing in
front of people, than from doing something
dangerous. That’s just unnecessary. Now
I know that it’s not important what others
think. There will always be people who
think what I do is crazy, but I have so
much fun in life that I simply don’t care
what they say.
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"I would tell my younger self exactly that –
not to give a f*** what people think. "
Right: Anna exploring new roads in Indonesia
Below: Anna during a film run - skating as close as possible in front of
a car, with several cameras mounted on the bonnet
Following page: Full focus during a descent in Australia
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//17

What kind of cross-training or other
sports do you engage in to complement
your skating? I train every day at the
gym, which is definitely the best way to
complement and stay injury free. But I also
surf a lot, go bouldering and rock-climbing,
skate bowl, slackline, and whenever I have
the chance to be in the snow I love to ski
and snowboard too. I also try to avoid using
cars as much as I can, and usually cycle
wherever I have to go.
What are your future goals and
aspirations within the sport? It would be
amazing to see the sport in the Olympics,
and to see it getting the media attention it
deserves. My personal goals in the sport, are
just to keep stepping up the game for as long
as I can. I don’t think there is an age limit
to this sport, even if it’s an extreme sport.
My future goal is to get even stronger, more
confident, and to keep doing things that blow
people’s minds for a long time.
How has speed downhill skating
influenced other aspects of your life?
It taught me to see fear from a different
perspective. I used to struggle a lot with
social anxieties, and learning how to
overcome simple fears in downhill skating,
also helped me a lot to develop strategies, to
overcome my fears in other aspects of life.
I learned that fear is just an indicator that
makes us more aware of danger. When we
listen, and develop more awareness of our
body and mind, it gets easier to assess our
fears, and to keep calm in scary situations.
Do you want to do a shout out to your
sponsors? I want to thank all the people
that supported me from the beginning until
now. My family, my partner, my friends,
my sponsors and the photographers and
filmmakers who took time to capture what
I do. Within my sponsors, I want to thank
especially the Austrian Federation “Rollsport
Austria”, who helped me to be the first
downhill skater in Austria to get support from
the government. I also want to say thank you
to TSG, for taking me into their Pro team this
year, and believing in my abilities to push this
sport for years already. And last but not least,
to my gym “Surfer’s Gym” and my trainer
Adam Komatsu, for providing an amazing
space to get stronger, and for constantly
adjusting my training plan to my needs.
Follow Anna on Instagram @annapixner
Follow Rod Soares Photographer
@rod_soares_ http://rodsoares.com/
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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//19

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Karen Koens
Learning on the fly!
We have known Karen Koens for as long as we can
remember; she has run her own successful diving business
in Fiji, she bikes, she hikes and she has travelled the world,
but when she said "I am buying a yacht and sailing the
Pacific using Google" we had a few questions!
At what point does a single female who has never sailed,
decide to buy a yacht and make it her home? We caught
up with Karen, now a seasoned sailor to see how this all
started...
Residing on the island of one of the most iconic anchorages
in the South Pacific, I had been on many sailboats (mostly for
sundowners). Occasionally I actually got to go sailing on them,
and quickly realised they offered adventures, a freedom, a home,
and a way to get to distant exotic places. Cruising life looked
fantastic, and I knew I needed to join those who raise their
anchor and sail off to the turquoise horizons.
So, I quietly started to look at the boats that came up for
sale, but mostly they were too big, too broken, too expensive!
Their owners, just about all male, seemed to be always fixing
something, or talking about fixing something, and the dream for
many to sail away into the blue, were hampered by constant
breakages and repairs. And I didn’t know squat about diesel
engines, let alone rigging and electronics. So I resigned to being
a land, well island..lubber, and just kept hitching rides.
From the 'maiden; voyage, hitting our speed record!
Then one day, a few years later.. 'Poppy'... my eventual boat,
sailed into Musket Cove Marina, with a Danish family of 6, who
just spent a year cruising the South Pacific. They needed to
quickly get the kids back to Denmark to start their school year,
and had 3 days to sell the boat, and move off her. I had seen
her come in, and I thought, “she's beautiful” and just the boat I
have been waiting for. All stars aligned and 3 days later I was the
ecstatic, albeit nervous, owner of a 45 ft Jeanneau Sun Odyssey
monohull sailboat.
And then you know that feeling after purchasing on impulse? What
the heck was I thinking? I had not sailed solo and she was a big
boat that needed some 'tweaking' after a year of cruising with 6.
But I moved aboard, slowly made her my own, got familiar with her
spaces and sounds, and pulled a few experts aboard.
And there she rested on her mooring for a month or so.
Then my 21yr old daughter, Estelle, arrived on the island for a
2 week vacation. I was proud to show her my new 'stationary'
home. But then she said 'Lets sail her up to the Yasawa Islands"
A full day's sail away!! "But I don't know how to sail her," I said.
"We will Google it" She said. So we did!
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//21

"Island living taught
me so much about ocean
weather, currents,
moon phases, reading
clouds, and navigation.
This has been invaluable
knowledge for crossing
the oceans later on
Poppy."
Left: Estelle and Karen under sail.
Right: Anchored in 3 meters, for lunch and snorkelling
Poppy has an in-mast furling mainsail
system, where the mainsail is pulled out of
the mast. This is run by some heavy duty
winches and if not handled properly while
furling and unfurling, the sail may bunch up
and jam inside the mast. This was on my
mind, whilst navigating the myriad of coral
reefs along our route.
However, with a bright young mind aboard,
and the help of Google, we had all the
sails out, and we were sailing towards the
beautiful tropical islands on the horizon.
That is until the wind and internet coverage
died, and the sails needed to come in. By
luck, a friend of mine was motoring towards
us at this time, and he recently humorously
recalled how I called out to him.."how do
we get these sails back in?" We made it
to the Yasawa Islands, and had a fabulous
week, swimming, diving and snorkelling
from Poppy, and immensely enjoying our
new floating abode. On our sail back to
Musket Cove, we actually hit the top speed
of 10.8kts under sail, a record that has
not been topped in her further 6000NM I
eventually sailed her. Quite a memorable
Maiden (2 girls) voyage.
At the point of purchasing Poppy, I had
been living, as a business owner, on the
Mamanuca Islands of Fiji for the past 16
years. In 2001, my husband Tony and I, very
randomly, decided to give up our successful
lives in Auckland, NZ, sell the beachfront
home, and move onto Beachcomber Island
Resort (it takes 4 minutes to walk around at
high tide, 6 mins at low).
Having never scuba dived before, we
naively, but enthusiastically, purchased
Fiji's largest scuba diving company, which
also provided Parasailing, Watersports and
Game Fishing. We also inherited 45 Fijian
staff, 7 dive centres and offered these
activities to 18 island resorts. And I started
homeschooling our 3 children, twin sons
Taylor & Harrsion, then 10 years old, and
Estelle, who was 6yrs. It was a busy time!
But island living taught me so much about
ocean weather, currents, moon phases,
reading clouds, and navigation. This has
been invaluable knowledge for crossing
the oceans later on Poppy.
We are fortunate to be sailing and cruising in
an era where we have access to advanced
Navigational equipment and weather APPS.
The use of paper charts still exists and are
strongly recommended to be used on an
ocean passage as a back-up for Navigation,
if the boat electrics fail. However, with
advancements such as Starlink, which now
allows us to Facetime and watch Netflix on
the high seas, the traditional methods are
quickly disappearing.
As Poppy had sailed across the Pacific,
she was well equipped with the full array
of Navigational equipment, such as an
electronic Chart plotter, GPS receiver Radar,
AIS, SSB Marine radio, compass and
depth and speed log. With the help of other
cruisers, I learnt to use these fairly easily.
Weather routing is perhaps the most
daunting aspect of departure planning on a
7 to 10 day passage (i.e. Fiji to NZ), as the
information we receive is only really valid
for 3 days out. The majority of sailors use
a very sophisticated weather APP called
PredictWind. With the use of a satellite
receiver and transmitter, we can download
up to date weather GRIB files as we voyage
along. All ocean cruisers become self-taught
meteorologist experts, and we all seem to
have a different outcome. Eventually, we
collectively agree that the weather 'window'
looks good to depart, and there is an exodus
of boats from our safe harbours. We can
keep in touch with each other enroute
through radios, and it's a comfort to know
others are out there if needed.
I completed my first ocean passage on
Poppy 14 months after owning her. It was
November 2020, and I was 'stuck' in Fiji. I
wanted to get back to NZ to see my family,
and there were no flights departing Fiji. So
there was no other option but to sail back!
But, I had no crew. Fiji had been closed
for 6 months, so available crew were nonexistent.
I gave up the idea of sailing back,
put Poppy in a safe marina, emptied her of
all supplies, and locked her up.
I went to join another sailboat sailing to NZ.
However, only 3 days before the scheduled
departure, Alex, an engineer aboard a
SuperYacht, sent out a message, asking
if any boats wanted crew. He also wanted
to get home for Christmas. We spoke,
and we both agreed that we were up for
it! We were to sail in 3 days, so there was
a lot to do to prepare Poppy for her 7 to
10 day voyage. After only meeting Alex
for 15 minutes, we threw the dock lines,
and pointed Poppy south for the 1200NM
journey home.
As we left the sheltered lagoon waters
behind us, and we entered the vast ocean,
with 30 knots of wind, 3 meter seas, and
night was only 3 hours away, the enormity
of the responsibility of being the Captain
on an ocean passage for the very first time
hit..hard! Alex was a respected engineer
but had actually done a little bit of coastal
sailing. We were strangers to each other,
but yet, our lives depended on each other.
We ended up having 3 days and nights
of very rough seas, but then the weather
settled, and we had a fabulous time
sailing towards New Zealand. We
enjoyed watching the migrationary birds
also returning home, being escorted by
dolphins, and taking in the wonder of the
stillness and beauty of the ocean. Sailing
into Opua, our home port, I felt a relief
to have arrived safely, but also a huge
accomplishment of achievement, as my
first ocean passage as a Captain.
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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//23

Capturing New Zealand
The journey of Maki Shaw
At 32, Mariana "Maki" Shaw, originally from
Argentina, has embarked on a mission
to capture New Zealand through her
unique photographic lens. Embracing the
natural environment, seizing moments,
and sharing them with the world, Maki
is carving out her place in the realm of
outdoor photography. Here’s her story.
A Quiet Presence in the Wilderness
Those who know Maki describe her as a
pleasant and introspective individual. “I’m
quite a pleasant person, I must say,” she
laughs. As an introvert, she finds solace
in the quiet moments of nature. Whether
hiking alone or with company, Maki values
the silent communion with the outdoors,
a trait many outdoor enthusiasts share.
“Even if we love having someone to share
the moment with, it’s also good to have
time and space to be present in your
experience.”
A Path to Photography
Maki’s journey into photography was a
natural progression from her love for the
outdoors. “I took up photography because
of the outdoors,” she explains. Inspired by
those who captured magnificent memories
on their adventures, Maki aspired
to become that person. She studied
photography and gained experience in
various fields, from product photography
to weddings. This diverse background
now enriches her outdoor photography,
allowing her to create compelling images
of gear, portraits, and landscapes.
Challenges as a Female Photographer
Maki acknowledges the challenges faced
by women in the outdoors. “We tend to be
more careful and treat things with more
respect, often due to a lack of confidence
in our skills.” This cautious approach
sometimes means slower progress or
avoiding unnecessary risks. Additionally,
her small stature means she carries a
proportionately heavier load, including her
camera gear. “Proportionally, I carry more
weight than any taller or bigger person,
which creates extra effort.”
Essential Gear for the Great Outdoors
For Maki, weight is crucial. She carries
two lenses: a versatile 24-70mm and
a long lens up to 300mm for dramatic
portraits and distant peaks. A small
Manfrotto tripod is essential for
astrophotography. A Peak Design clip
on her backpack allows her to shoot
on the go without the camera hanging
around her neck. Next on her gear list are
Vallerret photography gloves to keep her
hands warm in the mountains.
Memorable Moments in Nature
Among Maki’s many memorable
experiences, a standout is her time at
Caroline Hut with Alpine Recreation in
Aoraki Mt Cook National Park. “We had
the most beautiful stars and sunrises,” she
recalls. Learning mountaineering skills,
practicing avalanche awareness, and
encountering keas made the experience
unforgettable. The added challenge
of carrying her camera gear made the
adventure even more significant.
Favourite Locations
Choosing a favourite location is
challenging for Maki. “There are too many
locations I love in New Zealand,” she
says, listing Arthur’s Pass, Mt Aspiring,
Fiordland, and more. For her, the
Southern Alps feel like home. “Every time
the landscape closes in with peaks, I feel
at peace. It’s home.”
The Role of Post-Processing
Post-processing is a straightforward but
essential part of Maki’s work. Shooting
with the right settings is crucial, and once
the photos are downloaded, she focuses
on colour corrections and selecting the
best shots. Having developed her style
and presets, she ensures each photo
captures the essence of the moment.
Maki doing her thing at Wanaka Lookout (Rocky Mountain).
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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//25

A good 500m climb is worth celebrating! Top of Te Tapu-nui (Queenstown Hill), overlooking Lake Wakatipu.
Advice for Aspiring Female Photographers
Maki’s advice for young women interested in outdoor photography
revolves around training and exposure to bigger hikes.
Confidence gained from challenging hikes translates to better
portrait sessions. She follows a training schedule that includes
running, yoga, HIT, and indoor climbing, and hires guides for extra
outdoor skills. “Practice on friends. The more you hike with the
camera, the easier it becomes.”
Proud Projects and Future Aspirations
Launching Echo Photography, her outdoor photography
brand, is a point of pride for Maki. “It’s not only photography or
videography—it’s so much more,” she says, highlighting the skills
and marketing required. In the next five years, she envisions
collaborating with adventure magazines and documenting the
journeys of female backcountry explorers.
Connecting Through Social Media
Maki uses social media to share her journey, inspiration, and
work process. She aims to review trails and inspire other hikers,
particularly women. Social media has also connected her with
like-minded photographers worldwide, some of whom she has
met in person.
"In the next five
years, she envisions
collaborating with
adventure magazines
and documenting
the journeys of
female backcountry
explorers."
A Unique Perspective
What sets Maki apart is her focus on capturing memories for
others. “It’s the memory—you had that incredible view, that
otherworldly sunset, and all you have is a badly framed phone
photo. I aim to provide that great shot that represents you and
speaks about who you are.”
Maki Shaw’s journey is a testament to the beauty of New
Zealand’s landscapes and the power of perseverance. Through
her lens, she brings the majesty of the outdoors to life, one shot
at a time.
Follow Maki @echophotonz
www.echophotography.co.nz
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Now Listen
Abigail Hannah
What makes an Adventure Podcaster?
In a world where podcasts are becoming
as common as books there was always
going to be someone who captured the
Adventure ear – that someone is Abigail
Hannah. She is a 26 year old Aucklander,
who is reaching out audibly around the
world with her podcast about New Zealand
adventures and those that do them. This is
her story…… written down:
Is podcasting your full time job? No,
my day job is social media marketing for
travel and outdoor brands - I started my
own business doing this full-time last year,
after quitting my 9-5 urban planning job at
a large engineering consultancy!
How would someone who knows you
describe you? Driven, motivated and
confident. Not afraid of trying new things
or asking the question. Gets things done
and once she has an idea in her head, it’s
almost impossible to get it out… A good
listener and really easy to connect with.
Simply in your opinion what is a
podcast? It’s like your favourite radio
segment - but on-demand - you can listen
to it whenever and wherever you want!
Describe the timeline to where you are
today? I started getting outdoors around
the same time I picked up a camera. I went
outdoors to take awesome photos and
when I went outdoors, I would always take
my camera. I loved it, started sharing my
photos on Instagram and started to build
a community. I was drawn to the art of
composition, the challenge to chase good
lighting and the beautiful places that made
the best scenes and backdrops for my
photos. I’ve always been creative, I loved
the outdoors and exploring New Zealand.
I remember podcasts growing in popularity
and thinking to myself, “I could never…” I
had no desire to start a podcast - it wasn’t
my medium, it wasn’t my idea of fun.
In the summer of ‘21-’22 we spent 9 weeks
in the South Island living out of our 4WD
van. We met some awesome, awesome
people on the road and had such an
amazing time. I would be returning to AKL
to a new 9-5 job and knew how much I
would miss the road and the awesome
travel stories that we would exchange
along the way.
Podcasting then became an excuse for a
good yarn and to live vicariously through
other people’s adventures. I quickly fell
in love with podcasting because it’s longform
media. On Instagram or TikTok, you
have about x3 seconds to grab someone’s
attention and x15 seconds max to tell
a story. It’s impossible to tell a good
travel story or to share the challenges
and ecstasy of a trip in x15 seconds. A
podcast episode feels like sitting round the
campfire, hearing a good yarn, connecting
with a person on a deeper level.
I’m also the kind of person that has an
idea and I can’t get it out of my head until
I’ve acted on it. I said, “what if I started a
podcast…” and couldn’t shake it. I reached
out to my first few guests and told them
I wanted to interview them. Then I was
accountable to them to actually publish
those interviews - and I was accountable
to my Instagram audience to “start a
podcast”. It was about x2 months from
having the idea to hitting publish on my
first episode.
From there, I’ve shared weekly episodes
for over x2 years… now we’re about to
hit 100 episodes and I couldn’t be more
excited to see how the community has
grown.
What makes a good podcast?
The podcast landscape is so incredibly
diverse, and everyone will have a different
preference. Self-help, health, business
and finance podcasts are popular, so are
comedy and more casual entertaining
podcasts.
For a travel podcast, I think it’s really
important to provide valuable tips, advice
and key takeaways for listeners. They
need to be getting something of value out
of your episode if they are giving you 30-
45 mins of their day. I like to balance both
value and inspiration. Our conversations
are casual, hope to give you new ideas
for your next adventure, but with practical
takeaways.
I think successful podcasts have a wellestablished
niche, but broad enough that
you won’t run out of things to talk about
- for me that is New Zealand + Travel.
(Aotearoa + Adventures)
You have been very open about how
nature and being outdoors helped with
depression- can you talk to that – I am
sure there will be others who might
really benefit from your experience?
I was diagnosed with depression in 2018
and it was one of the darkest times of my
life. I felt so incredibly alone and when
I first felt the symptoms of depression,
I didn’t even know what it was. No one
in my family or circle of friends had ever
talked about mental illness before. I
thought I was completely broken, I had no
hope, I wanted to end my life. It was so, so
isolating.
My diagnosis was a relief. Sounds crazy,
but finally that ugly thing I was feeling
had a name and I felt an obligation to talk
about it and share my story. It was pretty
early on that I shared publicly on social
media that I was struggling with my mental
wellbeing. My main message was that
“hey, if you’re struggling too, that’s okay.
It’s part of being human, you’re not alone.”
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Winter sunrise in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park
Abigail and her husband, Isaac, spent nine weeks living out of their self-contained van in the South Island

"The outdoors has so many lessons
to teach us about the rhythms of
life, depression was a season, it too
would pass, and I would find spring,
then summer again."
I continued to share my journey on my
social platforms over the next two years.
Medication, therapy and the outdoors were
my three biggest healers. Connecting with
the outdoors helped me re-form an identity
and fall in love with Aotearoa.
The outdoors has so many lessons to teach
us about the rhythms of life, depression was
a season, it too would pass, and I would
find spring, then summer again.
Is there any benefit or negative being
a female podcaster? Perhaps if you
look at the statistics of men v women in
podcasting, you’ll find that it’s a maledominated
industry (only 21 of the top 100
podcasts on iTunes are hosted by women).
However, I don’t like to dwell on that. Some
of my favourite podcasters are women,
and I take inspiration from them and just
keep doing what I do. Personally, I haven’t
felt any benefits or negative effects being a
woman in podcasting.
How do you select the guests or topics
for your podcast? At first, I was reaching
out to friends in the outdoors, whose travel
stories I already knew. Then, it evolved
into reaching out to people who were
doing cool things or finding an expert on
a particular topic (e.g. alpining, kayaking).
Now, I have people reaching out to me with
their cool adventure stories and if it sounds
like a good fit that fills a gap in the show, I
get them on! It’s always awesome to have
listeners on the show as well.
How do you prepare for interviews with
your guests? Before the interview, I discuss
with my guest a central topic, destination or
trip that the majority of the episode will focus
on. I prepare a few questions around that
topic, as well as generic questions I like to
ask on each episode.
While I used to spend a lot of time preparing
for episodes at the start of my podcasting
journey, it’s become easier and more
natural. I don’t like to over prepare, because
sometimes awesome things come out in a
conversation, and we go on fun tangents!
What advice would you give to
someone who wants to start their own
podcast? Step one: start. Step two: don’t
stop. Consistency is probably the most
challenging part, it’s important to have
good time management and systems in
place. I like to have a few episodes in the
pipeline, so I’m not scrambling on a Weds/
Thurs to publish on a Friday. (I’ve been
there before and it’s not fun!)
It’s also a long game. It takes a while to
build up a community that love what you
do and are excited to tune in. The best part
is that episodes that you created weeks
or months ago will still get new listens for
years to come. Podcasts are ever-green
content, they don’t disappear in 24 hours
like social media content. Keep this in mind
- it’s a long game!
What advice would Abigail now give
Abigail 5 years ago? It’s all going to be
okay. Hold on, take it a day at a time, you’ll
be so surprised where you end up, but
you’ll be so incredibly proud. It’s going to be
fun, exciting, inspiring and bring you knew
energy every day. It’s worth waiting for!
How do you balance storytelling with
factual information in your episodes?
This is a really great question, and I would
say it differs between episodes. When
people are beginners, sharing their firsttime
experience, it tends to be a more
story-telling approach where guests talk
about their lived experience and lessons
learnt. When people are experts in their
sport or outdoor pursuit, I tend to ask them
for more advice, drawing on their factual
knowledge and experience.
Can you share a behind-the-scenes
moment that didn't make it into an
episode? Recording in a thunderstorm,
with lightning and loud thunder clapping
in the background. Or having a hailstorm
right after we finished recording. Phew!
Every episode has its bloopers - I forget
my questions all the time. We have
technical difficulties with the internet
cutting out, or mic/headphones not
working, batteries dying mid-interview. You
name it, it’s probably happened.
How do you engage and grow your
podcast audience? Something I love
about having an interview-style podcast
is that each of my guests get to talk
about episodes and share this with their
community and social audiences as well.
But growth is a slow journey.
In such a fast-paced world, not everyone
enjoys listening to podcasts - and that’s
okay. I do my best to talk about Aotearoa
Adventures often and I think that
consistency in posting each week draws in
an engaged community.
Once I accidentally published an episode
at 11pm - it had about 40 listens in the first
30 mins - I was like, “whoa, what are y’all
doing listening to this at 11pm ha-ha”.
What role does social media play in
promoting your podcast? Social media
is the main platform I use to promote the
podcast, and I rely on word-of-mouth a lot! I
share reels weekly to promote each episode
and encourage guests to do the same.
Have you collaborated with other
podcasters or content creators? If so,
how did it go? As a guest, I shared my
top tips for vanlife in New Zealand on the
Global Travel Planning Podcast, hosted by
my good friend Tracy.
30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

Top to bottom: Bell Rock, Hawkes Bay
Wharariki Beach, Nelson Tasman
Queen Charlotte Sound, Marlborough
A lot of my episodes are with other
content creators and key influencers in
the NZ travel and outdoor space. It’s
always a joy to have these guests on the
show because everyone has a different
favourite location, or a different take on
the “best” way to explore NZ.
What's the most inspiring story of
perseverance you've shared on your
podcast? There are so many I could
pick from - cycling from Cape Reinga to
Bluff with saddle sores; walking Te Araroa
with vertigo and falling over and getting
up again time and time again; coming
back to white water kayaking after a neardrowning;
overcoming mental hurdles on
day 2 of a 85-day Southern Alps traverse;
committing to a 180 turned 432 day
nonstop solo kayak circumnavigation of
New Zealand; 10 great walks in 10 days;
using slow travel as therapy to heal an
anxiety disorder… I could go on!
What's next for your podcast? Any
upcoming adventures or new formats
you’re excited about?
We are celebrating 100 episodes in
August and I am incredibly excited for this
milestone! Over 100 guests, over 100 epic
stories - and it’s only the beginning.
With each episode, my bucket list gets
longer, and we’ve only just scratched the
surface. Aotearoa is filled with so many
incredible adventures to be had, I don’t
think we’ll ever run out of stories.
How can we follow you or hear your
podcasts? I’m on Instagram and
TikTok @abigailhannnah and Aotearoa
Adventures is available on all podcast
platforms. Subscribe on Spotify or Apple
so you never miss an episode. All other
resources on my website:
www.abigailhannah.nz.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//31

Women
Walking the Talk
In adventure sports, the tramping/
hiking community stands as a
vibrant tapestry woven with tales
of exploration, fun, resilience, and
triumph. However, one crucial thread
often overlooked is the pivotal role
women play in this community.
Highlighting women's contributions
is not merely about gender equality;
it’s about celebrating the diverse
narratives that enrich a shared
passion for the outdoors, inspiring us
with their resilience and triumphs.
Women have always been integral
to the tramping/hiking world, literally
and metaphorically blazing trails.
From historical figures like Emma
Gatewood, the first woman to solo
thru-hike the Appalachian Trail,
Their experiences bring unique
perspectives on overcoming
challenges, fostering community, and
paving the way for others to accept
those challenges.
We asked a diverse range of women
a series of questions on how, why,
and where in relation to tramping/
hiking; reading these responses,
stories, and challenges is thoughtprovoking,
inspiring, and, most of all,
motivating.
"Reach out to other
women who can offer
guidance, support
as we all had to start
somewhere. There
are women hiking
groups you can join
if going solo is not
something you are
comfortable with."
Aisling O'Riordan
Christchurch
In the serene landscapes of
Christchurch's Port Hills, Aisling
O'Riordan discovered her love for
tramping eight years ago. What began
as daily outings with her young son
evolved into extended forays into New
Zealand's backcountry post-2020
lockdown. For Aisling, tramping isn't
just about exploration; it's a vital escape
from urban clamor, offering mental
rejuvenation amidst nature's tranquil
embrace. Beyond solitude, tramping
fosters connections—both with fellow
adventurers and with her son, creating
cherished memories untethered from
modern distractions.
If there has been one amazing tramp
that stands out in your mind – can
you outline where it was and why it
was so memorable? One we will never
forget was our trip on the Paparoa last
year. My son who was 7 at the time,
slipped and fell whilst outside playing at
the hut and broke his elbow. We had to
be helicoptered out of Moonlight Tops hut
back to Greymouth. He had surgery the
next day back in Christchurch, 3 wires
into his elbow and a massive cast for a 6
week recovery. One week after his cast
was off though he was climbing his way
up to Mueller Hut so he recovered well.
Just goes to show that things can
This sunset was taken up on Mt Brown Hut on the West Coast
change in an instant and to be as
prepared as you can with a PLB if there
is no cell reception.
What advice do you have for women
new to hiking? Reach out to other
women who can offer guidance, support
as we all had to start somewhere. There
are women hiking groups you can join
if going solo is not something you are
comfortable with. Lots of people out
there with years of knowledge and
experience that are only too happy to
help, share and support.
Can you suggest any specific hiking
groups or communities to join for
support and companionship?
The Outdoorsy Mama is a wonderful
supportive group that not only supports
women in hiking but women getting
outdoors in general both solo and
with their families. Tramping in new
Zealand FB group has a huge amount of
knowledge and experienced people on
there that share lots of tips and tricks of
the trade.
There is also Wāhine hiking and
tramping NZ group and a more local one
for Christchurch too. Most towns/cities
also have various tramping groups that
you can join and go on their group trips.
#bustsawadventures
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Jade Downing
Colorado/Wanaka
Jade Downing, currently residing in
Wanaka but originally from Colorado,
USA, has immersed herself in tramping
for approximately 10 years. Introduced
to hiking during university, Jade was
captivated by the awe-inspiring views and
the profound sense of peace it brings.
For Jade, tramping is more than just
exploring trails—it's about finding solace
and happiness in nature's embrace. Her
favorite memories are intertwined with
hiking adventures and the connections
forged along the way. Trails serve as her
sanctuary, a place where she consistently
finds tranquility and joy amidst the beauty
of the outdoors.
If there has been one amazing tramp
that stands out in your mind? I love the
Huayhuash Circuit in Peru. I did it 2 years
ago with my husband independently.
The views from the alpine route were
incredible but what made it memorable
was the problem solving I had to do. My
husband got very sick on the second night
suddenly with fever and diarrhea. I got
him out of the mountains without calling
rescue and we went back and finished the
circuit after he was better.
Do you ever feel at risk or
disadvantaged being a woman
tramper? There have been times where
people told me I can't do it and was
discouraged from participating in serious
outdoor pursuits as an Asian woman. I
have been very disappointed with some
of the gear out there where the women's
versions were incredibly subpar in quality
and features compared to the men's
version of the same model. Or just the fact
of how difficult it is to be a woman in the
backcountry sometimes. Luckily, I have
never felt at risk as a woman tramper.
Looking back on your journey, what
advice would you give to yourself
when you first started tramping?
Probably to trust my own opinions. For
example I have over trusted my partner
for a long time. From gear choices to
abilities, my own partner had not believed
in me. But I ended up showing him that
my own opinions are valid and my gear
choices were sound. I also showed him
that I am highly capable of completing
technical hikes and lengthy backpacks on
my own. We live in a world where most
outdoor guides and gear reviews come
from men. So subconsciously, I have felt
that my opinions were lesser.
What advice do you have for women
new to hiking who might feel
intimidated? Set small goals. Work your
way up and don't go on that difficult hike
that you are not ready for just because you
saw it on instagram. Go with a few friends
on a small overnighter and treat yourself
to good foods, good company and a good
time. Then, try longer and longer trails.
Hiking and backpacking is for everyone.
You don't need expensive gear or outdoor
specific clothing. You can take a basic
backpack retired from carrying books
even and rent a sleeping bag from a local
outdoor's program. You don't even need a
stove to go on an overnight hut trip in New
Zealand. Pack some sandwiches and
have a grand time.
"There have been
times where people
told me I can't do it and
was discouraged from
participating in serious
outdoor pursuits as an
Asian woman."
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//33

Caroline Wills
Wellington
Caroline Wills, a dedicated principal
residing in Wellington, finds solace and
rejuvenation in tramping, a passion
she's cultivated over the past six years.
Initially driven by a desire to regain fitness
after having children, Caroline's journey
into tramping evolved from trail walking
and running into multi-day adventures.
Discovering a community of like-minded
friends further ignited her passion, leading
to explorations of New Zealand's diverse
terrains and its network of huts, each
steeped in its own charm and stories.
Beyond physical fitness, tramping serves
as Caroline's essential mental escape from
the demands of her role. As she navigates
lush forests, rugged mountains, and
wind-blown tussocks, tramping offers not
only physical challenge but also profound
moments of serenity and connection
with nature. It’s a journey marked by
camaraderie with fellow trampers, providing
a refreshing contrast to her structured
professional life as a school principal. For
Caroline, tramping isn't merely a hobby;
it's a vital pillar of balance and mental
wellbeing, essential for navigating life's
challenges and embracing the beauty of
New Zealand's landscapes.
If there has been one amazing tramp
that stands out in your mind? There
are too many favourites- so I will discuss
my most recent one. I loved the Tongariro
Crossing - for its vastly changing
environments and views - mindblowing!
Southern crossing, along the alpine tops
and Kime/Alpha huts is another firm
favourite which I have done a couple
of times. However, my recent trip to
Waitewaewae Hut with my daughter Felicity
stands out as a current favourite. We set
out expecting a relaxed riverside stroll
but were soon taken by surprise by the
technical challenges of the route. The trail
was dominated by intricate root systems
that made walking straightforwardly
impossible, fresh slips that demanded
careful navigation, and steep inclines and
declines that tested our endurance.
Wildlife added to the excitement, with
sightings of deer and boar, and a cheeky
fantail that accompanied us the entire way,
adding a whimsical touch to our journey.
Felicity’s energetic pace kept us moving
briskly, making the tramp physically
demanding but exhilarating.
Finally reaching Waitewaewae Hut, we
found it comfortable, despite the lack of
firewood and broken tap. We scavenged
for sticks, though they were damp, and
managed to get a fire going, which
became a focal point for camaraderie
among the hut’s occupants. This
adventure, with its unexpected difficulties
and memorable encounters, made it an
unforgettable experience.
Do you ever feel disadvantaged being
a woman tramper? As a woman tramper,
there are moments when I feel at a
disadvantage, though these experiences
have also encouraged my preparedness.
It has ensured I don’t go out alone (for
overnight/multi day tramps) and I always
have my dog with me when doing day or
solo tramps.
On less frequented paths, the solitude
can be both a blessing and a concern.
While it offers a peaceful connection with
nature, it also means help might be far
away if something goes wrong. Being
alone amplifies the feeling of vulnerability,
especially at night. My dog is a comfort
for me, as well as never leaving without
suitable clothing if the weather changes,
headlight handy, and my phone.
There are occasions where I’m acutely
aware of my surroundings, such as
when encountering unfamiliar people on
the trail. Ensuring personal safety while
enjoying the trek can sometimes feel like
a balancing act. As much as it is lovely
meeting new people, when out alone, I’m
always wary of who I encounter. These
reasons make me glad of my dog's
protection and warnings :)
Despite these challenges, I’ve learned
to embrace tramping with a sense
of empowerment. I always prepare
thoroughly, stay informed about the trails,
and ensure I have the right gear and
knowledge. The sense of accomplishment
and connection to nature far outweighs
the disadvantages, and each experience
builds confidence and resilience, making
every tramp a rewarding adventure.
What advice do you have for women
new to hiking who might feel
intimidated?
• Begin with well-travelled and shorter
trails. This helps you get accustomed to the
basics of tramping without the pressure of a
challenging route.
• Choose popular routes where you’re likely
to encounter other trampers, making the
experience feel safer and more sociable.
• Tramp with friends, family, or join a
tramping club. Group tramping provides
safety in numbers and allows you to learn
from more experienced trampers.
• Learn about the essential gear and
clothing needed for different types of
tramps. Good preparation can boost your
confidence and ensure your safety.
• Take a basic navigation course and
familiarise yourself with maps and
compasses. Understanding your route
reduces anxiety and empowers you.
• Always check the weather forecast and
trail conditions before heading out. Knowing
what to expect helps in planning and
reduces surprises.
• Carry a well-stocked first aid kit, adequate
food, water, and navigation tools.
• Inform someone reliable about your
tramping plans, including your route
and expected return time. This provides
an added layer of safety in case of
emergencies.
• Consider using a personal locator beacon
(PLB) for added security in remote areas.
• Embrace the adventure! Tramping offers
incredible views, a connection with nature,
and a sense of achievement that outweighs
initial fears. Celebrate your progress, no
matter how small. Each successful tramp
builds confidence and prepares you for
more ambitious adventures.
Can you suggest any specific hiking
groups or communities to join for
support and companionship? Tararua
Tramping Club, Facebook groups to follow
and see what people are doing - there will
often be people asking if anyone wants
to join them, or for advice etc. There are
women specific groups there too.
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"I have travelled to quite
a few gritty places around
the world and had a few
'what if' moments! I was
living in London for
September 11 and had
an extremely close call
timings wise at the Boston
bombings in 2013. You
can’t let fear stop you!"
Adventures with her bestie
Oanita Collins
Queenstown/Nelson Lakes
Oanita Collins, affectionately known as
Owie, is a passionate adventurer based
between Queenstown and the Nelson/
Tasman Region, with a penchant for
spontaneous road trips. Growing up on a
farm in the Waikato instilled in her a love
for exploration, transitioning from "why
walk when you can ride" to embracing the
joys of hiking and tramping about a decade
ago.
Her journey into tramping took on new
significance in 2017 when a routine
health check detected a life-threatening
condition early, prompting her to prioritize
open spaces and reconnect with nature
during her recovery. For Owie, tramping is
a vital outlet that soothes and energizes,
providing both physical challenge and
emotional rejuvenation.
Tramping offers Owie moments of peace
and joy, whether she's hiking solo, with
her dog, or alongside friends. It's a
transformative experience that pushes
her physically, mentally, and emotionally,
fostering connections with nature and
others along the way. Through her
adventures, she's been fortunate to learn
from mentors and share her experiences
within online communities, embodying a
spirit of positivity and resilience with every
step she takes.
If there has been one amazing tramp
that stands out in your mind? Scotland
– Ben Nevis that was an everything in one
day situation
Bullendale Hut Track – Queenstown – It
was a fun varied day!
Seven Sisters in the UK – It was in the
middle of a heat wave, so I got clear
weather! A miracle!
Milford Track – A magical mystical hike.
Nelson hikes and trails - they are super
close to town.
Do you ever feel at risk or
disadvantaged being a woman tramper?
I grew up feeling that it was not safe to
go out alone as a woman, especially for
overnight options. In recent years I have
talked myself around on this topic. It can’t
be any more dangerous than walking
around London or Auckland right? Plus I
have travelled to quite a few gritty places
around the world and had a few 'what
if' moments! I was living in London for
September 11 and had an extremely close
call timings wise at the Boston bombings in
2013. You can’t let fear stop you!
I have and I am still dabbling and gently
pushing myself! Next on the cards is the
Routeburn and a solo overnight tramp. I am
more worried about rodents and possums
than my own personal safety!
What advice do you have for women new
to hiking who might feel intimidated?
Start small, whether that is small around the
block walks, or hike a trail with a friend, then
return on your own. Find a local exercise
group or join a free challenge. If shyness
or confidence is holding you back, perhaps
join a weekly walking group or exercise
group to help build confidence towards
exercise and or people.
Even if you go once a week! Put yourself
first – it’s ok to prioritise you. It’s not
selfish, it's smart! Heck your journey might
encourage someone else to make a start.
Most of all, be kind to yourself!
Can you suggest any specific hiking
groups or communities to join for
support and companionship? Trailfit
Nelson – Jacqui Keay is an amazing lady
and facilitator. This is an awesome session
to learn new skills and push yourself! You
will get sweaty and dirty! Don’t be put off,
there are beginner options.
Hiking with dogs New Zealand is my go to
for hound friendly tracks to hit with brought
in lockdown doggo Reddington Steel.
Wahine tramping and hiking facebook
group is an epic source of info, tips and
inspiration. Also Tramping in New Zealand
facebook.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//35

"I still have the Facebook post
of me sitting having a rest on a
rock halfway up The Pinnacles
track in the Coromandel with
the caption: ‘What part of the
name The Pinnacles didn’t I
understand?’"
Claire McCall
Auckland
Left to right: All set with a 13kg
pack - ready for the biggest
adventure of her life - Claire McCall
gets ready to tackle the Hexatrek in
France.
Standing on the Rocher du Brotsch
with a view over the plains of the
Lorraine Plateau in the Vosges.
A week into the Hexatrek, my
shoulder was starting to stab with
pain and I worked out, only much
later, that it was the yellow water
bottle on one side of the pack that
was pulling me off balance.
Claire McCall, a passionate tramping
enthusiast from Auckland, has been
exploring New Zealand's trails since her
early 40s. Her journey began on The
Pinnacles track in the Coromandel, where
she discovered a love for the challenge
and freedom that hiking offers.
For Claire, tramping is not just about
physical exertion but also about exploring
remote landscapes and forging deep
connections. She hikes with a close-knit
group of girlfriends, having completed
all the Great Walks together. Beyond
companionship, hiking has connected
Claire with people globally, creating lasting
friendships that span continents.
Claire's hiking journey is a testament
to the transformative power of outdoor
adventure, enriching her life with
unforgettable experiences and meaningful
connections around the world.
If there has been one amazing tramp
that stands out in your mind? In 2022,
at the age of 55, along with my partner
James, we set off to tackle four stages of
the Hexatrek – a new long-distance route
in France that traverses the mountains of
the Vosges, the Jura, the Alps, the Ecrins
and the Pyrenees. I hadn’t done anything
longer than a Great Walk before, so it was
a huge challenge. We stayed in huts (both
non serviced and serviced), campsites,
wild camped and in hotels. I’m not going
to lie, there were tears and tantrums.
I discovered many fears, among them
falling, patou (the sheepdogs that live
with the flocks in the high mountains), and
cows! But I also discovered a resilience I
never knew I had.
Along the way, we got Covid and had to
stop for a few days; there was too much
snow, so we had to detour down to the
Camino where we camped at a trout farm;
we met two incredible Swiss women who
I played Scrabble with, in French; and
so many, many other stories. In 64 days,
we made it 1340km from Wissembourg
on the German border to Nice on the
Mediterranean and climbed seven times
the height of Everest!
As a professional journalist, I couldn’t
help myself: I came back and wrote a
book about it. It’s called Hiking the Hexa
(available at The Women’s Bookshop and
Unity Books in Auckland, on Amazon.
com or directly through the author on
clairemccall.net)
Looking back on your journey, what
advice would you give to yourself
when you first started tramping? Pace
yourself. Slow and steady wins the race.
It’s a lesson that was beautifully illustrated
at the Creux du Vin, in France, where
a wily old fella was walking slowly but
steadily up the 18-switchback path. We
and many day-trippers passed him en
route but, of course, we all ran out of puff
before the top and on he went, without
stopping. Wise. Also, invest in some good
gear. The first time I stayed overnight
in a DOC hut, I had a hopeless cheap
supermarket-brand sleeping bag – and
I feel the cold. I spent a miserable night,
tossing and turning, but next time round, I
was toasty warm (and the bag packed up
smaller and lighter than that original one).
What advice do you have for women
new to hiking who might feel
intimidated? Don’t look at Instagram!
Honestly, there are some accounts where
the women have skimpy outfits on, their
hair is immaculately tied back or brushed
and glossy, and I swear they even have
a hint of lippy on. The reality is you will
probably be looking ruddy faced, mud up
to your knees and hair like a rat’s nest.
But that’s what’s so great about hiking!
Also, start at your level. You wouldn’t do a
black ski run first off, so choose an easy
hike. One of the recent, easy hikes I did
was the Pahi Coastal Walk in Coromandel
(catered, and you only carry a daypack,
but it’s a good taster). Find a group of
girlfriends to go with. You’ll never look
back.
Can you suggest any specific hiking
groups or communities to join for
support and companionship? Try your
local tramping club (Auckland Tramping
Club or North Shore Tramping Club in
Auckland), look on Meet Up for hiking
groups specifically for women. Walking
Legends host guided hikes in the North
Island. Or just plan a hike yourself and
invite people along. Before you know it,
you’ll have your own little posse. I can’t
tell you how many groups of women we’ve
come across on our
travels through NZ and
overseas who now hike
together regularly.
To purchase the book
www.clairemccall.net
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Lydia
Manawatu-Whanganui
Left: Lydia on the Heaphy Track.
Above: Ruapehu Crater Lake with a group of women who Lydia met through
organising the trip through the Wahine Hiking Facebook group.
Lydia, a 22-year-old adventurer based
in Manawatu-Whanganui, has been
actively tramping since 2018, with regular
hikes starting from early 2022, totaling
about 2.5 years of experience. For Lydia,
tramping is a gateway to adventure and
personal growth, pushing her boundaries
and providing a constant challenge to
explore further, faster, and higher.
The allure of tramping lies not only in
physical exertion but also in the profound
peace and exhilaration found in nature's
beauty. Lydia finds deep satisfaction
in conquering tough trails, relishing
the sense of accomplishment that
follows. Moreover, tramping offers her
opportunities to discover new landscapes
and forge meaningful connections with
fellow hikers, enriching her experiences
with lasting friendships.
In essence, tramping embodies a
perfect blend of challenge, exploration,
and camaraderie for Lydia, making it a
fundamental part of her life and personal
journey of discovery.
If there has been one amazing tramp
that stands out in your mind? The
Heaphy track. It was my first solo multinight
tramp, and it was just amazing!
I was very nervous about doing it on
my own. The first day was a mental
challenge; I had just arrived in the South
Island alone and was about to head into
the bush for four days without any cell
phone reception. By the time I reached
the first hut, I felt ready to turn around
and head home. But I'm so glad I didn't.
I ended up forming an amazing group of
new friends and gained a lot of newfound
confidence for tramping solo. It really
made me realize that if you want to do
something, you can't let anything hold
you back.
Do you ever feel at risk or
disadvantaged being a woman
tramper? There have been a few times
where I’ve felt at risk or disadvantaged.
For example, hiking in remote areas
on my own, or encountering groups
of strangers has made me feel
vulnerable at times. Ensuring I have a
good understanding of and have done
thoroughly researching. Making sure to
understand all potential risks, weather
and otherwise makes me feel a lot more
comfortable. I also always take a PLB so
that if something does go wrong, help is
never too far away.
Looking back on your journey, what
advice would you give to yourself
when you first started tramping?
Just go for it! Don’t wait for other people
to do what you love. Life is way too short
to hold back because you're waiting
for others. Embrace the adventure,
trust yourself, and remember that the
most rewarding experiences come
from stepping out of your comfort zone.
Each tramp is a chance to discover
new strengths and make unforgettable
memories. So, dive in with confidence
and relish every moment of the journey
What advice do you have for
women new to hiking who might
feel intimidated? Start small. Don’t
try and jump into something too long
and technical which may rock your
confidence. It’s important to build your
confidence up on shorter and wellmarked
trails. Joining a group is also an excellent
way to get into hiking, and an awesome
way to meet new people. Everyone must
start somewhere, and you just have to
take one mountain at a time, literally!
Can you suggest any specific hiking
groups or communities to join for
support and companionship?
I’m part of many Facebook groups
including Tramping in New Zealand,
Wāhine Tramping and hiking NZ and
Hiking Manawatu. I’m often asking
questions about a variety of things in
these groups or organising tramps to
meet new people!
"Embrace the
adventure, trust
yourself, and
remember that the
most rewarding
experiences come
from stepping out of
your comfort zone."
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//37

Louise
Dunedin/Northland
Meuller Hut Track
Louise, currently residing in Northland
after previously living in Dunedin, has
been tramping for about five years. For
her, tramping offers a profound escape
from the complexities of daily life.
Overnight hikes, in particular, strip away the
usual stresses and responsibilities, leaving
her with the simplest necessities: water,
food, shelter, and the journey from point A
to point B. This minimalist approach allows
her to disconnect from everyday tasks like
emails, chores, and appointments, offering
a refreshing break.
Beyond the mental escape, Louise is
captivated by the breathtaking landscapes
tramping provides access to. She marvels
at the extensive network of tracks and
huts maintained by organizations like the
Department of Conservation, which allow
her to explore and appreciate parts of
New Zealand she otherwise wouldn't see.
The endless possibilities for exploration
both excite and humble her, highlighting
the privilege of experiencing such natural
beauty.
While Louise has only just moved to
Northland, her tramping experiences in the
South Island, particularly on unforgettable
trails, have solidified her love for hiking
and the serenity it brings amidst stunning
scenery.
If there has been one amazing tramp
that stands out in your mind? I’ll
mention two that each had something
special that make them memorable.
My first solo overnight hike, in the
Silverpeaks. It was a simple track that
I’d done many times before, but I was
just stoked with myself for going solo.
Admittedly as soon as the sun set I
realised that I find being alone in the dark
quite scary still (even as a 30-something
year old), but I got into my tent, read
my book, and all was well. The sense of
accomplishment far outweighed any sense
of fear.
The Dingleburn track, from the Ahuriri
Valley over to Lake Hāwea. At the time this
hike was really at the limit of my abilities,
but I was with a group I knew I’d be safe
with. We pushed ourselves quite hard
– the days were long, the temperatures
were below freezing at night, and the last
day required lots of river crossings. The
sense of achievement at the end was
really something.
Most memorable though were the lessons
I learnt the hard way. I think people
sometimes presume you must have
everything figured out before you start,
but I have learnt many important lessons
along the way through making mistakes.
On that hike we ended up walking in the
dark on day two and I didn’t own a head
torch; all I had was my phone.
I had also scrimped on a cheap water
bladder, which broke, and soaked my
sleeping bag, which wasn’t in a waterproof
bag. There were several items added to
my shopping list after that hike.
Any times you’ve felt disadvantaged
by being a woman tramper? One
thing I have come up against on several
occasions however (and I’m unsure if I’d
refer to this as a ‘disadvantage’, maybe
just a frustration), is the unsubstantiated
assumption made by people I meet along
the trail that I am probably inexperienced
and out of my depth, particularly when
hiking alone or with other women.
Apparently, there’s still something about
a young woman alone up a mountain with
a big camera around her neck that makes
people think she probably doesn’t know
what she’s doing.
As an example, a female friend and I
were stopped during a day hike in the
Silverpeaks, outside Dunedin. The person
who stopped us launched immediately
into a passionate lecture about how
“irresponsible you girls are being, coming
up here dressed like that, do you not
know the dangers of hiking in this area”,
and suggested we “go back and do
38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

"The person
who stopped
us launched
immediately
into a passionate
lecture about how
“irresponsible
you girls are
being, coming up
here dressed like
that, do you not
know the dangers
of hiking in this
area”,"
A group of us heading up the Macaulay Valley, to Macaulay Hut.
some homework”. For context, we were
wearing shorts, t- shirt, and trail shoes,
and were carrying a small day pack with
an extra layer, water, and snacks. We’d
checked the forecast before leaving and
it was settled for several days. The track
was one we had both done countless
times, was well marked, well within our
capabilities, and has phone service the
entire way and we'd each told someone
our plans.
What disappointed us most about this
interaction was that the person who
stopped us was an older woman, and
it just felt like she was being a real
‘gatekeeper’. If she was genuinely
concerned then there were many other,
more constructive, encouraging ways she
could have approached that conversation.
Fortunately, we were both confident that
we’d prepared adequately, but if that had
been one of our first forays into hiking
then it would have been really off-putting.
Looking back on your journey, what
advice would you give to yourself
when you first started tramping? It’s
not necessarily advice for the start of my
hiking journey, but a lesson that I learnt
part way through.
When I first arrived in Dunedin I was
fortunate to find myself living with a group
of people who were keen, experienced
hikers. I later met my then-boyfriend, and
he started hiking with us too. I was never
much of a leader and tended to let others
in the group take charge of logistics,
food planning, route finding, etc., and
I followed along. Gradually, however,
our group began to break up as people
moved out of town and out of the country,
and a while later my boyfriend and I broke
up too.
I remember thinking at that time, “hiking
is one of the things I enjoy most, and now
I can’t go because I don’t have anyone to
take me”. But, in the process of picking
myself up from that breakup, I had a
lightbulb-like moment where I thought,
“no, f*ck that, I’m not going to sit around
at home on the weekends and wait for a
guy to take me hiking. I’ll do it myself.”
So, over a couple months, I gathered all
the things I would need to go solo (PBL,
stove, cooking pots, etc., as until then I’d
shared other people’s gear). I started by
choosing a track that was close to home
and that I was familiar with, and I went
for my first solo overnight hike. A year on,
I drive hours across the country to do 3-
and 4-day hikes.
So, I suppose my advice would be; if you
want to do it, then go and do it, don’t feel
like you have to wait for someone to do it
with you.
equip
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Silver Linings
Brain trauma to thriving business
"Life is short - do cool shit!"
In 2015, while riding her mountain bike in
a friend’s backyard, Debs had a mishap.
It wasn’t a dramatic crash, but she hit the
ground hard and the bike struck the back of
her head, helmet on. Initially cleared by a
GP despite seeing stars, it was a specialist
recommended by her job at Cycling New
Zealand who detected potential issues.
Although an MRI didn’t reveal a brain bleed,
there was significant bruising.
Recovery was a gruelling journey. The
first few months confined her to a dark
room with debilitating headaches. One
breakthrough came with an occupational
therapist’s suggestion of children's Lego
and colouring books, which unexpectedly
brought immense joy and a pivotal
moment of clarity although with is some
moments of frustration.
“I experienced the wildest of headaches
and was allowed no stimulation other
than kids Lego… for 5 year olds…with
instructions. My partner Gaz, came home
one day to find me bawling my eyes out.
Mum had just left so I wasn’t alone but I
was crying because I was missing a piece
of lego and couldn’t finish. Gary fixed it and
I went from uncontrollable sobbing to happy
as, just a like a 5 year old.”
Yet, the path to recovery was littered with
emotional challenges. She penned a note
in her diary, not a suicide letter, but a cry
for understanding amid the turmoil of her
altered state. Moments like getting lost
after grocery shopping underscored her
struggle for independence and normalcy.
“One day I was colouring in a kids book
and I lost my shit because some of the
things were already coloured in and
secondly because the chickens were
coloured purple. I was distraught.”
Living with an invisible injury strained
relationships, as her altered behaviour and
loss of filter bewildered those close to her. It
wasn’t until finding a new neurologist that her
pain was managed, marking a turning point.
“That’s the thing about a brain Injury. From
the outside you look the same. It’s not like a
broken wrist where you are visibly hurt. But
I wasn’t fine. And this caused breakdowns
in relationships with some family and
friends. I was saying hurtful and very unlike
Deb's things. I lost ALL of my filters (I'm
usually a compassionate person, but during
a lot of this I was a total b*tch. But I looked
the same and people didn’t understand it or
have sympathy for it.”
Returning to work after a year and a
half, she realized her dream job was no
longer fulfilling. This prompted a deep
re-evaluation of priorities and led her to
pursue passions that truly ignited her spirit.
“This tiny crash had huge consequences
on my life and really forced me to think
about what I wanted. If I didn’t get
tomorrow, am I doing epic shit today that
truly sets my heart on fire.”
Embracing a new motto—life is short, do
cool shit—she came up with the idea of
STOKEDNZ, crafting high-quality towels.
“I had always had a towel poncho for these
things, but it was just a bit shit. Didn’t dry
you. So, I was like, how hard can it be? I’ll
make some. I hadn’t sewn since school,
(who know pattern paper was a thing).”
Starting small, the business quickly grew,
supported by a loyal customer base and
partnerships with global retailers.
“Lots of buddies wanted them too. So, we
made more. We launched in November
2017 (via a Facebook post) while I was
in Colombia at a World Cup. The support
blew my mind. 4 months in we got a
wholesale order for 1000 towelies so I
booked tickets to Turkey and flew over. I
wanted Turkish cotton because It’s quick
drying, packs up tiny and is the best towel
I’ve owned! I'd spent months researching
and having yarns, so off I went.”
Navigating setbacks, including supply
chain disruptions and natural disasters,
tested her resilience. Yet, she and Gaz
persevered, expanding their product line
and philanthropic efforts.
“Now we’re stocked in more than 80 shops,
our coolest being Scott base in Antarctica.
We ship globally daily and have the most
loyal customers, who’ve come back 40+
times as a Towelie is their go to gift…
And we’ve grown our range to include
homewares and sell to heaps of boutique
40//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

"Everyone will
have their opinion
and if they’re not
living the life, you
aspire too, don’t
take their opinion
onboard. We’re all
on our own path."
hotels, private hospitals and Airbnb’s.
A brain injury will shift your perspective and
I mentioned my new motto became; life is
short, do cool shit.
To me, that meant being able to work
anywhere in the world from my van, an
Airbnb, or a boat in Tahiti. But at the very
beginning of STOKEDNZ we lived in a tiny
house off grid for two years so we could
reinvest everything back into STOKEDNZ.
We literally ran stoked from a storage unit.
Being really clear on your why helps when
times get tough, like they did this past year.
We had none, literally none of our
containers arrive for last summer, then
we had floods, a cyclone, all of our
summer events cancelled… FYI – we’re a
predominantly summer brand. We make
more than 65% of our revenue in summer,
so to have no stock arrive for Christmas
was the biggest of fuck ups (all due to port
congestion worldwide) and this impacted
us hugely… But Gaz and I have huge
personal and business goals.
So, while maybe most “normal” people
would think, that’s enough towelies now,
Gaz and I backed ourselves and continued
producing more for this summer. So not
only did we not pause it, but we upped it.
I’m thankful for our self-belief and Gary’s
unwavering support. But I’m proud of us.
I’m glad we backed (and continue to back)
ourselves and we are super passionate
about going all in on our dreams.
Debs journey taught her profound
lessons: the importance of self-belief,
clarity of purpose, and resilience in the
face of adversity. Today, Debs remains
dedicated to living a life filled with passion,
adventure, and meaningful impact.
Debs’ life lessons
• I make a vision board every single
year. I kid you not, a shop in the
Coromandel & a trip to Tahiti was
on it… Both have happened despite
having zero plans for in Jan this year
when I made it.
• Writing a letter to yourself, or a friend
if you feel weird writing it to yourself
as if it’s already happened. So, mine
would go something like this… Oh hey
Faye (I always write mine to by buddy
Faye), you wouldn’t believe it mate,
2024 has been our best year yet… We
bought our dream lifestyle block with
a banging vege garden, amotocross
track for Gaz, a small off grid house…
it’s soooo cool. We also had 6 weeks
in Canada snowboarding, went back
to Turkey to see our makers… Etc.
• There’s a bunch of psychology around
what happens to your body when
you write this and truly believe it…
you feel it. I guarantee, write a letter
yourself and I bet you get full body
goosebumps…
• Simon Sinek also wrote a book, "Start
with why." Which I 10/10 recommend!
And has helped me the last 6 years in
business. because opportunities come
at you, and they can sound too good
to be true… One did… But we gave
it a trial, quickly learnt that we were
misaligned (we wanted very different
things from life… it almost ruined our
business financially). But we crawled
out of that hole and learnt maybe my
biggest lesson yet… No one cares
about your dreams as much as you do.
• Everyone will have their opinion and
if they’re not living the life, you aspire
too, don’t take their opinion onboard.
We’re all on our own path.
• Look for inspiration but never
compare. Everyone’s path is different.
And comparing to their highlight reel
is naive.
• There are no shortcuts. You’ve got to
show up and do the work.
• Invest in yourself - I have spent
thousands on mentors and coaches.
• Back yourself.
• Life is short, so cool shit!
For more: www.stokednz.co.nz
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//41

Absolute power
Corrupts absolutely
If absolute power corrupts absolutely
– does "absolute fame" do the same?
Sexual inequality and harassment have
deep roots in every sporting discipline, and
the outdoor industry is not excluded, some
of which we have witnessed ourselves.
Starting in 2005, alongside Adventure
Magazine, Pacific Media also produced
a women’s surf magazine called Curl for
over ten years. Throughout that journey,
we were to experience what women have
had to endure in male-dominated sports
for decades. There are so many examples.
Early in Curl’s history, during a National
Surfing New Zealand competition, the
sponsor paid more money to the bikini
contest winner ($1000) than it did to the
female who won the surf competition!
The female outrage, and there was a lot,
barely made a ripple; in fact, people, males
mostly, just laughed it off.
In that same period, as we travelled the
world photographing the top female surfers
worldwide, we were told, in writing, by the
top surf brands of the time, not to submit
images of the women in shorts and t-shirts
as they would not use them. Bikinis were
mandatory.
In a shared photoshoot in Tahiti with one
of the surf brands full-time photographers,
we were exhausted by the constant
suggestion of images that had nothing
to do with being a female sportsperson
and more to do with being a bikini model.
When the photographer asked if we could
‘get the two girl surfers to hold hands while
riding the wave?’ our response was, ‘If you
can get two male surfers to hold hands on
a wave, we’ll ask them’. That was the final
straw. We dropped him off on the shore.
What makes these people behave in such
a manner, what makes them believe that
women are there to be exploited? Some
can be “explained” by the era, although
not that long ago women were not given
the same respect in sporting scenes and
it’s good to be able to say that a lot of that
has changed with women now gaining
equal pay and equal respect for their
sporting prowess rather than their visual
image. However, we still have a long way
to go. Is it power or fame that allows such
behaviours to prevail?
The outdoor industry has very much
avoided the spotlight of the ‘Me Too’
movement, but recently, on the heels of
the life sentence handed down to famed
Yosemite climber Charles Barrett, worldrenowned
mountaineer Nirmal ’Nimsdai’
Puria has come under the glaring spotlight
of the New York Times accused of sexual
harassment.
In May 31, an article by Anna Callaghan
and Jenny Vrentas of The New York Times
outlined that some female climbers have
accused renowned mountaineer Nirmal
'Nimsdai' Purja of sexual misconduct.
The article, titled "For Female Climbers,
Dangers Go Beyond Avalanches and
Storms," presents allegations from two
women who claim Purja made aggressive
advances or touched them sexually
against their wishes.
Before we start, The New York Times is not
some clickbait newspaper rag; this feature
will have been well documented, well
researched and backed by a legal team
second to none, but it is only an accusation.
In the article Finnish mountaineer Lotta
Hintsa, recounted an incident in March
2023, where Purja allegedly led her to his
hotel room in Kathmandu, undressed her
without consent, and masturbated next
to her. Similarly, American doctor April
Leonardo, who was on an expedition with
Purja's company Elite Exped in June 2022,
accused him of forcibly kissing her and
attempting to initiate sex in her tent at K2
base camp.
Both women felt powerless and uncertain
about reporting the incidents, which
occurred outside of their own countries.
Neither contacted the police.
Outdoor adventure harassment is
somewhat more insidious in that the
perpetrators are also in charge of your
safety, similar to an employer who controls
your employment pathway; calling them to
account puts you in jeopardy.
So, the issue of power and those who
control your safety (or careers) are often
prerequisites for harassment. But what of
‘fame’, we have seen on the big screen,
TV, and in politics where fame gives the
preparatory a feeling of being untouchable,
above the law, a personal right to do as
they please.
42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

Image courtesy of Red Bull

"As adventure
sports step
more into the
spotlight, that
recognition, that
fame is becoming
substantial and
as absolute power
can corrupt
absolutely, so can
fame."
As adventure sports step more into the spotlight,
that recognition, that fame is becoming substantial
and as "absolute power can corrupt absolutely", so
can fame.
To be 100% clear Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja has not
been found guilty, this is not trial by media, it is at
this stage an accusation. In response to the article,
Purja’s public relations team denied the allegations
in a statement on Instagram, calling them
"defamatory and false." Purja declined interview
requests, providing a written statement through his
lawyer denying any wrongdoing.
The accusations sparked a conversation in the
comments section of a post by AWE Expeditions
(https://awexpeditions.org/) @awexpeditions,
a female-operated guiding company, which
expressed deep concern over the allegations.
Following the post, Osprey, one of Purja’s
sponsors, announced they had severed ties with
him. Osprey said it had cut ties with Purja. “Osprey
is aware of the recent allegations made against
mountaineer Nirmal Purja. He is no longer an
Osprey ambassador.”
Purja, who gained ‘fame’ from the Netflix
documentary "14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible,"
owns the 'Nimsdai' brand and co-founded Elite
Exped. He has collaborated with brands like Red
Bull, Nike, Grivel, Scarpa, and Osprey. In 2018,
he received an MBE for his mountaineering
achievements and an honorary doctorate from
Loughborough University in December 2023.
The New York Times also mentioned the conviction
of US climber Charles Barrett for sexual abuse in
2016 (as we have mentioned) and highlighted a
2018 survey by the US initiative 'SafeOutside,'
(#SafeOutside is an independent grassroots
initiative designed to combat sexual harassment
and sexual assault (SHSA). Organisations
worldwide have joined forces from climbing
and outdoor communities to collect data, drive
conversation, share best practices, provide press
coverage, and address the issues.)
SafeOutside revealed that 47% of women and
16% of men reported unwanted sexual behaviour
while climbing. The women who spoke with the
New Your Times, Hintsa and Leonardo, hope
their stories will raise awareness and improve
safety for women in the male-dominated sport of
mountaineering.
Following the publication, several female climbers,
including Alison Levine @levine_alison and
Melissa Arnot Reid, @melissaarnot voiced their
support. Arnot Reid encouraged women to share
their stories, stating that she had "been waiting for
over a year for this story to break."
On June 5, Purja issued further statements on
his personal Instagram, Elite Exped account, and
Nimsdai Foundation page, continuing to deny the
allegations.
Watch this space!
44//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

Images courtesy of Instagram
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//45

Jane Kanizay
Teach Us Consent
A personal perspective:
Ridgeline : Image by Lhapka Sherpa
My introduction to mountaineering came
when my teenage daughter, expressed
her goal of one day summiting Mount
Everest. We began this journey while
she was still young; at 15 years old, we
trekked to Everest Base Camp. During
this trek, we started to investigate what
it would take to train and prepare for a
summit of the highest mountain on Earth.
Initially, it felt like an insurmountable task,
but as we gained more experience and
skills at greater altitudes, our belief in
ourselves solidified.
Our journey progressed with progressively
higher climbs, and our first 8000m summit
was on Cho Oyu in Tibet in September
2019. Gabby became the youngest
woman to summit at 16 years old, and it
was such a joy and privilege to be there
with her. Interestingly, this was when I first
met Nims as part of his 14 Peaks Project;
he set the lines on September 23 with
some of our Sherpa guides.
My three other children were always super
supportive, despite my long absences.
We lived at Everest Base Camp for four of
the six weeks of our expedition, climbing
partway up the face of Everest twice to
Camps 1, 2, and 3 for our acclimatization
rotations. This prepares the body for the
low-oxygen environment above Camp 4
South Col at 8000m, known as the death
zone, which has only 34% of the oxygen
at sea level. Our successful summit as
a mother-daughter duo was achieved at
4:30 am on May 14, 2022. Standing on
the summit was surreal, and my heart
absolutely burst to be there with Gabby.
The sound of the prayer flags in the wind
will stay with me forever as we gazed over
the Himalayas below us at sunrise.
Why Did I Pick Teach Us Consent?
I came to advocate for consent education
as a survivor. Sadly, too many women
are survivors of sexual misconduct,
sexual assault, domestic abuse, or men's
violence. For me, it was non-violent
domestic abuse, and I am constantly
threatened with defamation action
whenever I speak publicly, even with my
children or friends who share my stories
back to him. To him, he's "not that bad."
The language around sexual assault and
men's violence needs to be understood as
more than physical violence and rape.
Language matters. Teach Us Consent
provides a better understanding of rape
culture (particularly in Australia) and the
Pyramid of Abuse/Rape, which is held up
at the base by:
• Touching, groping, and unsolicited
sexual attention
• Catcalling and whistling
• Locker room banter and lack of respect
• Emotional and psychological abuse
• Cheating, lying, and gaslighting
• Financial abuse and even pet abuse
For too many women, leaving a
relationship can place them at their
greatest risk. Men need to understand that
any attention they would consider sexual in
nature if directed at them by another male
is the same for women. It has no bearing if
a woman is heterosexual or not; unsolicited
or unwanted sexualized behaviour and
patterns of behaviour are abuse.
For many women, there is a sense of
helplessness in voicing their experience
or reporting crimes against them. The first
retaliation by most men accused of sexual
assault, sexual harassment, or family
violence is to deny, deflect, and threaten
legal action for defamation. Women are
well aware that the likelihood of criminal
proceedings reaching a conviction is as low
as 2% to 6%, depending on their location.
Where does this leave women in terms
of reporting abuse, prosecuting abuse,
or receiving some acknowledgment of
what has been committed against them?
Research indicates that a man is 230
times more likely to be raped than to be
the victim of a false accusation of rape.
Yet, we still seem to prioritize men's
reputational damage over the real harm
perpetrated against women—their safety
and their bodies.
Why Has This Reached Prevalence
Recently?
We all deserve to be safe in all spaces.
What is exceedingly difficult within
mountaineering and other outdoor
extreme activities is that we are often
fully dependent on the team and leaders
around us. So when a male team
member or leader makes the choice to
place a woman in an unsafe situation—
psychologically, sexually, or violently—it
often leaves women reacting in the fourth
trauma response.
Most are aware of the three trauma
responses: fight, flight, and freeze. The
fourth, less known trauma response is
fawning, where the victim continues a
relationship with their perpetrator. The
safest way for this relationship to continue
is for the victim to show kindness, care,
friendship, or whatever is required to
feel and remain safe. To the outside
world, this appears as though no abuse
is occurring. This is another reason why
reporting abuse is so troublesome; to
the outside world, it can seem that the
victim and her perpetrator have a positive
relationship. Abuse often occurs where
there is an imbalance of power. Men are
predominantly more dominant physically
and often financially and in positions of
leadership, which creates an imbalance of
power. This is particularly so in the maledominated
world of mountaineering.
46//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

Jane on the summit : Image by Tendi Sherpa
"Why don’t we speak out?
Because the systems of justice
do not always defend us.
Too often, the perceived
reputation of a man is held
in higher regard than the
physical and psychological
safety and lives of women. "
The fact that a male body can be a
weapon is something that women grow up
being acutely aware of, and when male
bodies are used as a weapon, it can lead
to physical violence, rape, and death.
Thus, fawning is a survival response,
making it appear that everything is okay.
As you can imagine, in an extreme outdoor
environment, these risks are heightened.
Recently, a major name in mountaineering,
Nirmal Puja, who made headlines for
climbing the 14 highest peaks above
8000m in under six months in 2019,
has had claims of sexual harassment
levelled against him in a New York
Times article (June 1, 2024). Predatory
behaviour has been an open secret within
mountaineering for many years, with
many more women sharing experiences
via social media and private messages of
support. But without one woman coming
forward, no woman would.
We are often asked why these open
secrets continue for so long, and this
is clear in examples now in the public
sphere from other high-profile cases.
Every time legal actions defending male
violence and sexual abuse are successful,
it exacerbates the silencing of women.
When I climbed Everest with the message
and flag of Teach Us Consent, I never
imagined it would be needed on the face
of these mighty 8000m+ mountains.
Why don’t we speak out? Because the
systems of justice do not always defend
us. Too often, the perceived reputation of
a man is held in higher regard than the
physical and psychological safety and lives
of women. When will this change? How do
we get change?
How Do We Get Men to Support Us?
I have always been fortunate that all
my travels in the mountains have been
predominantly safe. Perhaps because
I have mainly travelled with my teen
daughter, we have afforded each other
the benefit of forever being chaperoned.
We have also been blessed with Sherpas,
guides, high-altitude workers, and
teammates who have been trustworthy
and full of integrity. Sadly this is not always
the case for all women. Sadly for me I was
never afforded this safety elsewhere.
This is why I advocate against male
violence against women. Women should
be safe everywhere and anywhere. In fact,
everyone should be safe, including men.
We should all be safe from male violence.
This violence stems from a position of
entitlement where men are either unable to
process their emotions, deal with rejection,
or lack empathy for the person they are
with, resulting in violence or sexual abuse
against other men, women, and/or children.
“Reporting an abuser doesn’t ruin their life.
They did that themselves. Reporting an
abuser doesn’t damage their reputation. It
makes it more accurate.” —@luciaoc
How do we get men to support us in
understanding this imbalance instead of
using it against us? How do we get men to
be allies and speak up for women? How
do we get men to call out the behaviour
of other men? It is difficult to call out the
behaviour of mates, but surely that is less
challenging than what women experience.
Perhaps because this is outside men’s
lived experience, they are unable to
process the challenges women face as
their everyday lived experience. They
often cannot view a mate who treats them
well as someone who could treat women
poorly. As a parent of two daughters and
two sons, I’m well aware there is little I
can do to protect my daughters, no matter
what they wear, how they act, or where
they are—home, work, on the streets, or in
the great outdoors. But I can influence my
sons. That’s where I see some of the most
vital work being done by campaigns such
as Teach Us Consent.
Cultural Perspectives
The stories I heard always came from
other Sherpas—the women I knew
who climbed with him didn’t share their
experiences with me as I didn’t know these
women well enough. It’s much harder
for women to break their silence. Sadly,
this behaviour was also not called out
by the men who were aware, perhaps to
protect their own jobs or their Nepalese
communities. Among all cultures, it is
unusual for men to be allies, call out
behaviour, and break the silence.
Microaggressions are the most insidious—
death by a thousand paper cuts. Women
experience this since childhood when
our bodies become fodder for the male
gaze, and we are all too well aware of how
our school dresses are sexualized. My
young workplace experiences included
a boss who would tap my ass goodbye
on Fridays, dirty jokes and banter, men
having Friday lunch at strip clubs, and
telling stories back in the office; I worked
in engineering in the 90s. As a young
woman, I either smiled politely or turned
the other way—they all knew I was
uncomfortable, but if I wanted to be in a
male environment, I had to be able to take
it. To them, it was not that bad.
Follow Jane Instagram @jane_kaniz | www.janekanizay.com
48//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//49

Lisa Blair
Record holder!
Australian solo sailing adventurer and
environmental campaigner Lisa Blair has
set a new mono hull solo sailing course
establishing the record for Auckland to
Auckland around New Zealand in 16 days
and 23 hrs in her yacht Climate Action Now.
She was greeted with a spectacular
sunrise and glistening moon disappearing
as she crossed the start/finish line off
Rangitoto Island by the Royal New
Zealand Yacht Squadron (RNZYS), who
will help adjudicate her new record.
“I'm so incredibly proud to have become
the first person to sail solo around NZ, I
faced all conditions and sailed through two
storms on my journey before finishing at in
Auckland Harbour.
“I really worked hard the whole way around
to set a time that I feel will be challenging
to break and now I have no doubt a Kiwi
will have a go soon,” Lisa said.
Her voyage has encountered orcas and
albatross along with monster waves and
storms, surfing a swell at a record 23 knots
for the trip, through to virtual becalmed
conditions as she pushed hard to establish
the new voyage time, a first for a solo
mono hull record.
She also encountered floating plastics
is pristine waters off the southern coast
of New Zealand, something she is
campaigning to raise awareness about the
destructive impact and extent of plastic
pollution in the far reaches of the ocean.
Her solo Antarctic sailing record surveyed
microplastic pollution in every part of the
Southern Ocean circumnavigation.
Lisa crossed the start line at 0757 (NZST)
Tuesday 7th May and finished at 7.30am
(NZST) on Friday 24th of May, sailing over
2,672 nm.
“I didn’t sleep last night at all, and after
micro 20 min sleeps the whole journey my
focus is now on a hot shower, a good meal
and very big sleep,” she said.
Only last month she set a fastest time
record for Sydney to Auckland as the first
woman and solo monohull record of 8
days, 3hrs and 19 minutes, taking over 4
days off the existing record, to be ratified
by World Sailing Speed Record Council
(WSSRC).
The record, to be adjudicated by the
RNZYS in collaboration (CYCA) and
WSSRC, required her course to enclose
the whole of New Zealand including all
rocks and islands lying within 8nm of the
mainland.
Lisa’s Climate Action Now campaign
started in 2015 collecting environmental
action post it note messages from the
public which adorn her yacht. Having
sailed remote seas around the globe
where she witnesses plastic pollution, Lisa
says her campaign is about spreading a
call to action.
“I'm sailing to save our oceans and to show
people that as an individual we all have the
power to create change, it just starts with
one action.
“I'm a firm believer that we can change and
so undertake these records to show that
together we can create a better future. It
just starts with one positive climate action.”
Lisa is the current world-record holder
for sailing solo, non-stop and unassisted
around Antarctica in 2022, breaking the
record by 10 days to add to her 4 previous
world records and now 2 new pending
Sydney to Auckland records.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//51

Nobody's Princess
Revolutionising women's snowgear
In the world of snow sports, one company
is making waves with its innovative
approach to women's gear. Nobody's
Princess, founded by Chief Pant Splitter
(her words) Maria Baker, is challenging
industry norms and empowering women
on the slopes.
Let's delve into the story behind this unique
brand and its mission – because if the name
didn’t grab your attention, then what she is
doing certainly will.
The Birth of a Brand: The name
"Nobody's Princess" encapsulates the
company's essence, blending personal
history with a powerful message. Maria
Baker, the founder and self-proclaimed
"chief pant splitter," explains the origin:
"Growing up, my mother always called
me her Princess, which is ironic given my
tomboy-like nature and passion for farm
life and cars. My partner often said I could
never be owned, likening me to a free bird.
These influences led to the concept of
being 'Nobody's Princess'."
The name resonated not only with Maria
but also with potential customers. When
put to a public vote in her local snow
community alongside 30 other options,
"Nobody's Princess" emerged as a top
contender, solidifying Maria's choice.
“I took it as a sign. I really loved that the
general public ultimately chose the name
that I was already in love with.”
An Unlikely Snow Enthusiast:
Interestingly, Maria wasn't always a
snow sports aficionado. Her first snow
experience came at the age of 30, shortly
after moving to Melbourne from Adelaide.
Despite being a self-proclaimed "beach
baby," something about that initial trip to
Mt Buller clicked, leading her to purchase
her first snowboard the following weekend.
Prior to founding Nobody's Princess, Maria's
background was in graphic design and art
direction, with 16 years of experience in
various industries. Her hobbies included
belly dancing, amateur AFL, and Brazilian
Jiu Jitsu– a far cry from the stereotypical
skier or snowboarder profile.
“In terms of fashion and garments – I
previously had nothing to do with it. My
hobbies never crossed into those that
a stereotypical skier/snowboard might
have – no mountain biking, no skating, no
surfing, no hiking.”
The Woman Behind the Brand: When
asked how others might describe her,
Maria candidly responds:
"I often describe myself as loud and
obnoxious, but that's just my warning that
I can be bubbly and easily excitable. I'm
bright and bubbly on the outside. I'd like to
think people see me as caring, dependable,
stubborn (or tenacious), someone who
doesn't put up with any nonsense,
spontaneous, and admittedly indecisive.”
More Than Just Clothing: Nobody's
Princess is about creating high-quality,
long-lasting gear that enhances women's
snow experiences. The brand was born
out of frustration with the existing options,
and aims to provide adjustable, flexible,
comfortable, and feature-packed clothing
that makes women feel at ease on the
slopes.
The company's ethos goes beyond mere
fashion. Maria explains:
"Nobody's Princess is about not needing
to rely on others to fit in, while still being
entitled to respect and enjoyment. It's
about being able to experience the snow
without needing a clique or a group and
being treated with respect and openness
regardless of your background, status,
upbringing, or hobbies. We want women to
remember that they deserve the best from
each other and the world, without sacrifice
or conditions."
And this is the same feeling Maria aims to
invoke when it comes to the snow apparel
buying experience, too.
Challenges and Triumphs:
The biggest challenge for Nobody's
Princess has been explaining how their
gear differs from conventional options.
Maria notes, "It's been hard to get past 'I
make women's snow gear' and have the
chance to explain that it's revolutionary."
Despite these challenges, Maria remains
positive about the impact of her business:
"The best thing about my business is the
gear we make, the impact we're having
on people's snow experiences, and the
feedback we receive. Seeing the smiles
and having conversations with customers,
knowing that we're making something that
isn't just fast fashion but has a purpose –
that's what drives me."
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"Nobody's Princess
is about not needing
to rely on others to fit
in, while still being
entitles to respect and
enjoyments. We want
women to remember
that they deserve the best
from each other and the
world without sacrifice or
conditions."
Gender in Business: Advantage or
Disadvantage?: When asked about being
a woman in business, Maria Baker offers
a balanced perspective:
"I don't believe my gender plays a
significant role. While it may help that I'm
a woman selling to other women, in terms
of day-to-day business operations, I'm
just as capable as anyone, regardless of
gender. The real challenges come from
difficult individuals in the industry—those
who are rude, misogynistic, are poor
communicators, or bullies—and I've
encountered such behaviour from both
men and women.”
"In my experience, amongst the
right people, women face neither
disadvantages nor advantages that
significantly impact business success.
People's strengths and weaknesses stem
from their personalities, life experiences,
and character—not their gender. My
main advantage is that I've experienced
the same issues with snow gear as
my customers, allowing me to better
understand and address their needs."
Navigating the Volatile Snow Industry:
Acknowledging the industry's reputation
for volatility, Maria remains optimistic:
"While the industry's volatility does affect
us to some degree, I maintain a positive
outlook. Seasons and demographics may
change, but there will always be potential
customers. Even if a poor snowfall
dampens success, the sheer number
of people and snow resorts worldwide
means that ultimately, my success
depends on my efforts.
"It's my responsibility to scale and grow
the business flexibly, making smart, riskaverse
plans. This approach ensures
we're not operating like every other brand,
but rather protecting our longevity and
avoiding the excuse of a poor season."
The Best and Worst Aspects: Maria
enthusiastically shares the most
rewarding aspects of her business:
"The best things about Nobody's Princess
is the gear we create, the positive impact
on people's snow experiences, and the
feedback we receive. Seeing customers
smile and engaging in conversations with
them is incredibly fulfilling. It's gratifying to
know we're making something purposeful,
not just fast fashion.”
"We're not constrained by 'years of
experience' or a traditional sales
approach. Instead, we have the freedom
to do things the way our customers want,
which sets us apart from other brands."
Maria shares through laughter her only
resentment: “It’s having to work in a cold
warehouse.”
Current Reach and Future Plans:
Nobody's Princess products are currently
available online and in multiple retail
stores across Australia, New Zealand, and
Japan. The brand has plans to expand
into US retailers and increase its product
line based on customer feedback.
A Message to Her Past Self: Reflecting
on her journey, Maria offers advice to her
younger self:
"I'd tell her that straying away from what's
expected of you and taking risks is totally
worth it – keep going with it. Use your
heart and your brain together because
they make a great team. And remember,
you don't need anyone's permission or
approval."
Web: nobodysprincess.com
Insta: instagram.com/nobodysprincessapparel
FB: facebook.com/nobodysprincessapparel
Tiktok: tiktok.com/@nobodysprincessapparel
Maria wants nothing more than to highlight and cater towards the diversity of women in snow sports, normalising the uniqueness in their
shapes, sizes, and heights. Photos: Cassie Goding Photography
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//53

Go You!
Women's only events
Katie and Nicki at the Waikawa womens regatta
By Phil Clark - Mad about Travel
Mudmaidens downhill event Skyline Rotorua
I’m a keen bloke, with a wife and a
daughter. We all love the outdoors - skiing,
mountain-biking and sailing.
I wish there didn’t have to be women’s only
activities but the truth is thank god there is!
Through these events and activities,
girls compete, learn and gain confidence
against people of similar strength, attitude
and size. It allows girls to flourish and
women to gain confidence and skills.
I’ve seen both my wife and daughter excel
in single sex events, supported, taught and
inspired by their peers.
Women’s only events encourage
participation!
In the last 10 years several women’s
sailing regattas have sprouted up in Picton,
Gulf Harbour, Auckland and other areas.
These have been well received, with ever
growing numbers of ladies competing.
Participation is encouraged and the
competition is fierce at the sharp end of
the fleet and at the blunt end the laughter
and comradery can be heard for miles.
As a result of these regattas more women
own, skipper and crew on yachts than ever
before. This is a great thing for a sport
which has had declining numbers in the
last few years.
Women learn differently than guys.
I’ve taught learn to sail for years and
although it’s a gross generalisation, I find
that females want to understand how
things work and what makes stuff happen.
Guys just want to try stuff, if it doesn’t work
they will try something else. This produces
people who technically understand what
they are doing and why, and it produces
awesome sailors. The same thing happens
with skiing, which is why good women
skiers are technically awesome.
Women have different motivations.
I’m involved with a youth mountainbike
club in Auckland (Jafakids). We have 150
kids whom we take mountain biking every
Wednesday night rain or shine, summer
and winter. Prior to 2012 it was dominated
by lads. Until a dad with two daughters
started a girls feeder group called
Bella’s on Bikes. This was to encourage
younger girls (under 11) to gain skills and
confidence on mountain bikes and then
join Jafakids when they came of age.
Bellas on Bikes run a fun, non-competitive
learning structure which is producing
amazing female mountain bikers.
As a result of Bellas, Jafakids now has
around 45% women in its ranks, and has
a number of female coaches. It’s fantastic
to see the girls shredding with the lads
and its fantastic for the sport. The girls are
motivated by learning skills, hanging out
with friends and enjoy the outdoors, the
lads want to go fast, jump high and test
themselves. When you mix the lads with the
girls something magic happens as the girls
discover they ARE just as good as the lads.
On the whole women’s only events,
competitions and pastimes are fantastic
for the participants, the sports and general
wellbeing of our society.
They make the world a better place in my
humble opinion.
54//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

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Your mountain bike travel specialists, with over
20 years experience ensures you have a fantastic
trip, crafted by people who really care.
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madabouttravel.co.nz

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The Joe River Expedition
Words by River Mutton images as credited
It had only been three days of trying
to walk kayaks into the Olivine
Wilderness area and our plans had
already gone down the drain. The
jagged edges of icy mountain caps
reared up sharply, blocking the sky
opposite where I sat. Snowmelt
cascaded down sheer rock faces
into the valley below, echoing in the
abundance of space. The Dart river
cut its way beneath the mountains and
wound out of sight. We had walked
this same route up from Glenorchy to
reach the foot of O’Leary’s pass.
We were determined to climb over
the Barrier Range and into the Joe
River on the other side. From there
we would paddle the Joe River out to
sea, down unknown whitewater never
before explored by kayak. The Joe
River is not unheard of to the kayaking
community, but it sits within a ‘no-fly
zone’ guarded by a steep scramble
some 1000 vertical metres down.
The only way to get a kayak in is to
carry it over the pass. This means
to paddle this river you have to go
mountaineering with your kayak and
enough gear for as long as it takes to
make it out. It's an estimated 52km of
portaging kayaks in total, with 40km
of whitewater kayaking to navigate
before the river flattens.
Most have brushed off the idea as
impossible but Mike Dawson saw
a challenge. George Snook and I
were easily taken by the possibility
of running a first-descent river in our
home country of New Zealand and
the opportunity to truly experience a
real wilderness area. A bit of research
proved that access over O Leary’s
pass had been possible for trampers
with packs. If it was possible with
packs, it's possible with kayaks and
a bit of rope work we thought. And
so the Joe River expedition was
born. The three of us received the
generous North Face Adventure
Grant 2024 providing the resources
for our planning to quickly become
real. Patrick de Jong joined us with
his strong outdoor skill set, and Ryan
Lucas completed the crew as our
cameraman. With our boats filled with
enough food and gear for 8 days in
the wilderness, we strapped them to
makeshift backpack carry systems
and set off from Glenorchy on what
would be Geo and I’s first kayaking
expedition.
Each of us packed the minimal amount
of gear possible but the loaded kayaks
still weighed around 40kg each. Mine
was a bit lighter thanks to my dad,
hand-making me a carbon footplate
to replace the plastic one inside my
boat, and not having to carry the tent.
The plan was three days in, three
days out. Yet here we were, nearing
the end of day 3 and barely above the
tree line. In fact, our boats were still in
the forest, ditched until further notice.
It had become clear that we weren’t
gonna be sticking to the time frame
when twenty minutes into the climb
up the hill the day before, we’d barely
moved from our starting point. We had
stored most of our food and sleeping
gear at the bottom to double back
for once we got the kayaks past the
trees. Even with empty kayaks though,
bush bashing with such large objects
proved too awkward, and the going
too steep. Still, we pushed on.
My ankles hurt, both of them past
their best-before date for the trip due
to more than one misstep on the first
day. I’d been stopping to rest my boat
on the ground every 5 minutes at
least when I heard the whistle from
Mike and Pat. Thinking they must
have made it to the top, I reluctantly
shouldered my boat and kept going up
the hill in their direction. Five minutes
and we were standing face to face.
Much to my surprise, they weren’t
even 100 metres ahead of us and
also hadn't breached the tree line. It
only got worse from there we were
informed. Thicker bush, more fallen
trees, and steeper banks. Ryan, who
was carrying a pack raft and moving
much faster, was nowhere to be seen.

Previous Page:
Mike Dawson carrying
his kayak full of gear up
the Dart River.
Clockwise from top left:
Team photo with loaded
kayaks before setting off
from Glenorchy, day 1.
Quick food break with a
decent view.
The final float home.
Above photos by Ryan
Lucas
Right:
Joe on a nice wee drop
on the Upper Dart river.
Photo by Mike Dawson.
Following page:
Setting safety for George
Snook finding the lines
down the Upper Dart.
Photo Mike Dawson.
We sat on a tree branch and contemplated
our options. I think it had been already
slowly dawning on us as we climbed that
we might not make it into the Joe this time
around. We marked our location on the
topo maps and left our kayaks to double
back for the rest of our gear. It was a stiff
climb back down and up again before we
finally broke the tree line. Beech trees
gave way to sharp alpine shrubs that
faded out to rusty tussocks. We pitched
our tent over one of the rolls and spent the
night overlooking the Dart.
The next morning I’d lost the ability to
walk. My ankles had worsened overnight.
The day’s plan was to take a small amount
of gear to the top of the pass and scout
the route down to the Joe to see if it was
actually possible. Ten minutes of me
hobbling up the tussock and Ryan shook
his head. I wasn’t gonna make it to the
top by the end of the day at this pace,
and climbing the snowy pass safely might
have been a bit too risky. Unfortunately,
that left me only able to wait where I was
for the others to scout and come back with
more info. My seven-hour silent retreat
was finally over once everyone arrived
safely back from the top. The recent cold
snap had left too much snow to cross over
safely with kayaks. It was confirmed that
we were not making it to the Joe River. We
sat discussing our next move. We still had
at least four days of food left and all of us
were extremely keen to kayak something
after carrying our boats all this way. The
upper Dart, rumoured to have potentially
never run whitewater, was quickly settled
on as our plan B.
Day Four dawned and I was crunching
sand in my teeth as I drank from the
cloudy waters of the Dart. We’d arrived
back in the valley and loaded our boats
again in preparation to walk another 10
km upstream to our designated put-on. I’d
swallowed painkillers and forced myself
to walk normally on my feet to warm my
ankles into moving again. 10 km sounded
pretty easy though.
It wasn’t easy. It was late in the day and
my boat felt heavier every step. Suddenly
Pat appeared walking towards us. He’d
already made it to the end and came
back to help us with some of our weight.
Feeling bad but grateful I gave him one of
my dry bags full of gear. Then he was off
again, disappearing down the track at a
speed walk. 1 hour max ’til the hut he said.
Just when I swore the track was endless,
I spotted Ryan grinning from behind a
camera. Behind him, the Dart River hut
stood in the clearing. It was full of Easter
weekend trampers and Mike had already
started setting up the tent.
Day 5 and finally we were gonna do some
paddling, but first more walking. A quick
drone scout of the first rapids showed
some very stout features flowing through
siphons. We decided to skip the first gorge
and put on for the second. We walked
back along the track for about 2 km to
the confluence with the Whitbourn and
followed the long-forgotten ruins of a trail
down into the gorge. A bit of rope work to
lower our boats in, and at last we were
kayaking.
The first rapids were small, weaving
through boulder gardens. We moved
cautiously, not knowing what was around
the corner. Despite being loaded with
gear, my boat felt light for the first time on
this trip. I was so happy to be on the water
that even the small ripples of waves were
so much fun. The river steepened and the
rocks turned to siphons. We navigated
what we could and portaged the rest. Fun,
but still no real rapids and despite the
easy moves, there was no room for error
in a river of such rocky character. Soon
the river was a mess of siphons unlike
any I’ve ever seen. Thick channels of
water hit solid rock slabs, feeding into tiny
crevasses until they split and fill with angry
boils of water. We were climbing around
boulders when suddenly the horizon
line dropped. In front of us was a perfect
20-footer with a rolling lip… straight
onto a rock. Disappointment was clear
on everyone’s faces. Below, the rocks
continued to get gnarlier. It was a massive
portage fest and we were not making
much progress. We were moving about
200-300 metres/ hour and the terrain
didn’t show any signs of getting easier.
We discovered one good boof. After so
much mank it felt awesome. The next
rapid was proper and easily runnable
but dropped straight into a nasty cavedin
siphon not even 30m below. No one
wanted that risk so we left it and decided
to hike out of the gorge before dark. It was
a big effort by the crew to haul boats out of
the gorge involving a lot of rope systems.
We made it back to the track and around
the remainder of the second gorge.
58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//59

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It had been dark for a while by the time we reached
our camp spot and we fell asleep with intentions of
an early start.
My head torch lit up the steam of my breath in front
of me when we put on the river in the morning. We
knew the next gorge was likely entirely unrunnable
so wore rain jackets instead of our drysuits to make
for a quick turnaround. It was only a short grade 3
section before the portage and we weren’t going to
get wet.
It was really cold on the river. Almost immediately I
got hit with a wave to the chest. I was soaked and
now so cold I was looking forward to walking. Once
off the water I quickly changed into dry clothes and
ran a few laps up and down the track to warm up
again. It wasn’t, however, until we were well into the
‘last’ portage that I felt warm again.
It was another scramble down into the last gorge
where we found another fun little drop almost
straightaway. Other than this the river was just too
slow going without anything runnable. We climbed
out of the gorge for one last time and hit the trail
until we reached the bridge below the last gorge.
From here the river is flat until our original starting
point.
We put on the water knowing we’d taken our last
steps of the mission and it was a float downstream
with the current.
For a first kayak expedition, the trip was a big
learning experience for the future. As far as bang
for buck goes in terms of whitewater kayaking
I’d say this trip was very minimal on the bang
side and steep on the buck. It was still a valuable
experience though and in retrospect, it wasnt that
bad. I enjoyed a lot of the experience and there's
definitely something to be said for the adventure of
sideways plans. Most missions are way easier than
this one so I'm told. Whether or not that's true, I'm
excited to keep exploring with my kayak.
As for the Joe River, we haven't given up. All going
well, we’ll be back for another attempt again late
this year. This time with pre-coordinated food drops
and a lot more time to kill.

Race Report by Nick Laurie
Hunua Ranges Xterra
Super Long (21k)
The Macpac Trail series headed to the
Hunua ranges for one of the most grueling
runs that I have done- so far. Ranked 9/10
for gnarl factor on their website, I was
not left wondering why, only why I would
choose to do this?
The Hunua Ranges are a 14,000-hectare
regional park at the Southeast border of
Auckland. One Hours drive from the CBD,
this park holds a myriad of trails for the trail
running enthusiast. The Auckland Council
began purchasing land in the 1940s to help
supply the city with water from 4 dams in
the area. 2,300mm of annual rainfall is
filtered by the bush so that Aucklanders
can quench their parched throats. Pine
forests have been gradually replaced with
natives as part of the largest scale revegetation
project in NZ.
This beautiful bush is home to Kokako
and the native Hochstetter’s Frog. I do
have vague memories of hearing the
beautiful Kokako bird song as I traversed
the Pukapuka Track. I didn’t see a frog,
as they are rarely sighted, due to them
being well camouflaged. I did see a North
American Grizzly, but this was just a
result of hallucinations associated with
relentless vert.
Upon arrival our shoes and cars were
inspected for dirt in order to ensure that
we weren’t bringing any Kauri dieback
with us from our local training grounds.
Total sport takes this very seriously with
cleaning mats part of the prestart ritual.
For this race we also required compulsory
gear in case something untoward
happened on the remote tracks.
A seam sealed raincoat, beanie, gloves,
thermal top and a survival blanket had
to be carried by every competitor. This fit
easily into my Camelbak Apex pro vest
along with a couple of drink bottles. I was
thankful for the coffee cart as well which
enabled a very efficient use of one of the
plentiful porta loos prestart.
I joined yet another sell out field (it pays
to sign up for the whole series) and set
off on a perfect, cloudy, but not too cold,
Sunday morning. We left Mangatawhiri
campsite in a large bunch. The first 800m
was on a gravel road that was great for
spreading the field out before we hit the
single mountain bike tracks. This was
great running through native bush with a
little bit of undulation. This turned out to
be my favourite part of the run and was
capped off by a shallow stream crossing.
We came out of the bush on to Workman
Drive and turned up for the steep ascent
up ARA drive. This was 2.5k of gravel
road straight up. I had been training
specifically for this bit and did manage
to run the first 800m followed by a power
walk which is universally acceptable in
this portion of the race. I would have
passed about 10 people but was passed
by a very fast walking woman. How is it
that females can walk faster than males?
I’ve tried to get my walking a bit more
efficient because I will be employing this
uphill tactic when I tackle the Taupo ultra
in October.
We climbed and then came to the
second aid station at the entrance of the
Pukapuka Track. This is 6k of hell. You
are going fast if you can do it in under
an hour. I was disappointed with my 80
mins. There is mud, roots and steep
undulations. I resorted to finding 2 sticks
to use as makeshift poles to help with
the slippery up and downhill sections.
Obviously, this slowed me up a bit. I have
been working on my dexterity through
Rooty surfaces. This is still a work in
progress! My Merrell Agility Peak 5 shoes
and ankle length socks were perfect for
the slippery, muddy conditions- so I can’t
blame the gear.
I made a mistake with my fueling strategy.
My intention was to have a sip of water
every 15 mins and a gel every 45 mins.
I was so frustrated in the rough section
that I didn’t have my 3rd gel and in
retrospect paid for it in the last part of
the track. At the 17.5k mark we then
had a glorious downhill run past the
picturesque Mangatawhiri Reservoir. I had
to concentrate hard on maintaining some
flow here because my lack of fuel was
causing a bit of cramp in my quads. The
views took my mind off it and I was also
able to grab back a few places that I had
lost while I had my pity party on the track.
The last 3 kilometers were downhill gravel
road and I ran them like a Kenyan. It was
great to let the legs sing like the sweet
sounding Kokako ( in my head anyway).
It was great to meet that lads at the
finish and share my tales over some free
hot chips and a Speights. I managed a
podium finish in my age group and that
will keep me going until we tackle the
Waitawa Trails in 2 weeks.
62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

"I would have passed about 10 people but was passed by a
very fast walking woman. How is it that females can walk
faster than males? "
Nick chooses Merrell, CamelBak and Gu
AN UNAPOLOGETICALLY TOUGH
ULTRAMARATHON, TRAIL MARATHON
& 22KM TRAIL RUN/WALK
SATURDAY 15 MARCH, 2025,
HUNUA RANGES, AUCKLAND, NZ
WWW.HUNUAHILLBILLY.CO.NZ
ENTRIES
NOW OPEN
10% off
HHBADVENTURE10

Paddle for Purpose
Mission Accomplished
On Sunday 19th of May 2024, we pulled
our kayaks out of the water for the last
time and set them down on the shingle
of Eastbourne beach, Wellington, to the
embrace of family and friends.
After two and a half months living on
and off the moana, we had completed
the 2000 km paddle from Cape Reinga
to Wellington along the east coast of the
North Island - and raised $17,000 for
the Mental Health Foundation and Live
Ocean in the process.
A gentle thrum of waiata welcomed us
onto the pebbled shore. The Muritai
School kapa haka group spearheaded a
large crowd of locals who had turned out
on an overcast but peaceful Wellington
day to welcome us in.
As the bows of our kayaks made contact
with land there was a bittersweet sense
of loss now that the journey was over.
This was soon overtaken by joy - we had
accomplished our goal.
The energy shifted as we relieved
ourselves of the mental burden that we
had carried for 75 days. We no longer
had to make decisions on where to land
or camp, there was no need to monitor
the weather. The four of us could now
truly rest.
Before launching at Tapotuputo Bay on
March 6th, none of us had any real idea
of what we were getting ourselves into. It
wasn’t until we had finished the first day,
heaving our kayaks up on the southern
side of North Cape, that we realised the
true magnitude of the trip. We had pulled
off an 11 hour day, paddling a total of 40
km - 10 km further than we intended -
and had barely made a dent in the total
distance. Communication, patience and
resilience were going to be key if we
wanted to make it to Wellington.
During our planning phase we had
spent some time together on the water
developing key safety procedures that
would guide our decision making, and a
leadership strategy where we’d all take
turns calling the shots.
We set out the values that would be the
foundation of our group dynamic, and
which we credit with the success of the
trip: Honesty, respect, gratitude and
enjoyment.
By living with those four core values close
to our hearts we were able to navigate
the deep mental lows, group rifts, tough
decisions, and the days that felt longer
than a watch could measure.
To travel solely by kayak is to be
vulnerable. At times, we were the most
miserable we’ve ever been. Caught in
relentless headwinds, soaked to the core,
questioning everything. Dead silence
over our porridge at 5am, donning wet
and frigid cold paddling gear trying to
muster the energy to paddle for the day,
compelled by the collective desire to
finish what we started. Travelling in this
way, you feel a place at its worst, just as
you feel it at its best.
And at its best it was brilliant. Days up in
the far North where the coastline changed
every few hours; camping on white sandy
beaches under the shelter of pohutukawa
trees; a pod of milling bottlenose dolphins
near Doubtless Bay; sailing across the
Hauraki Gulf; encountering huge churned
seas around East Cape and diving
Nor’westerly winds around Cape Palliser.
It was inbetween the bad and the good
where we found the time to reflect on our
64//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

message and build our mutual passion for the
journey. This happened during rest days on
secluded beaches, the slow mornings where
we had time to watch the sun rise and soak
up its warmth before we plunged into the
surf, or during the debriefs over the campfire.
Throughout these times our message became
stronger and our passion for sharing it grew.
The environment can have a huge positive
effect on our mental health. It is possible
to connect in such a way that the natural
world becomes a tool to manage our own
wellbeing. It doesn’t matter what taiao you
feel connected to - use that to strengthen your
mind, body and soul, and become kaitiaki
for these natural spaces so they’re there for
future generations to come.
If our expedition inspired one person to
make the decision to head into nature as a
way of connecting to their own mental health
then our journey was a success.
Like any good adventure, this one already
has and will undoubtedly influence the
course of our lives. There is so much to say
and, yet so much not to say - rather to just sit
with and continue to learn from.
We owe thanks to many people who helped
make this trip possible. We are especially
grateful to all those who made up our
support crew along the coast. They gave up
their own time to support us. We are super
appreciative to our sponsors; Chris West at
Kayak HQ, Celliers from CEKR, Sam Russek
at NMIT Adventure Tourism and Warren from
Bin Inn Wholefoods. They all trusted that we
could pull it off.
We also owe thanks to all the generous
hospitality we received along the coast,
so many wonderful names and faces that
offered us a shower, food, beer or even a
place to crash. You all made this trip that
much more special.
A final thank you to everyone who has
donated. Together you raised $17,000 to
be split evenly between the Mental Health
Foundation and Live Ocean. Two charities
that contribute towards a healthier future.
Your kindness is greatly appreciated.
Onto the next adventure.
"If our expedition
inspired one
person to make the
decision to head into
nature as a way of
connecting to their
own mental health
then our journey was
a success."
"Hoe ora, moana ora, tangata ora, mauri ora.
I te timatatanga
Ko te hiahia
Mai i te hiahia
Ko te mahara
Mai i te mahara
Ko te whakaaro
Ka puta te kaupapa e
In the beginning
There was a desire
From the desire
Comes awareness
From the awareness
Comes the thinking
Then the kaupapa is realised"

66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

posure
X
Captured on a trip to visit his son in Stratford, Peter
Davis photographed Mt Taranaki in all her glory.
"The weather forecast looked mint for Saturday, so
we decided to walk the circuit from the North Egmont
access in the clockwise direction via Razorback, Holly
Hut and the Ahukawakawa Swamp tracks, staying at
Pouakai Hut on Saturday night.
We were blessed with perfect weather all day, and after
settling into the hut, we ventured back onto the tops to
enjoy the sunset and stunningly beautiful reflections in
the Pouakai tarn."
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//67

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FOR
YOU
Black Diamond Distance Carbon Z
Trekking/ Running Poles RRP: $349.99
The Distance Carbon Z is our
lightest Z-Pole engineered for
those who travel fast. With 100%
carbon construction, the Distance
Carbon Z features a three-section
foldable design that allows for fastresponse
deployment.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
Exped Lightning 60 Lightweight Pack RRP $349.99
Comfortable, lightweight, roll-top
backpack for fast-and-light multi-night
adventures that allows freedom of
movement and load-bearing stability.
Suspension system that allows for
micro adjustments, zig-zag side
compression and an over-thetop
compression straps, stretch
side and hipbelt pockets to keep
essentials handy. Available in men’s
and women’s versions
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Chickfly Pants
Designed to empower
women in the outdoors
with greater bathroom
access using Zipperless
flys comprised of
two stretchy overlapping
panels that pull apart and
snap back in place after
being released.
WWW.CHICKFLY.COM
68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

Black Diamond Women’s Solution Harness
RRP: $169.99
Our purpose-built sport climber’s harness,
the Women's Solution provides unequaled
comfort for long days spent working
your project. Fusion Comfort Technology
introduces three separate strands of
low-profile webbing in both the fixed leg
loops and waist, to create superior load
distribution while reducing pressure on
sensitive points. A women's specific rise
and fit will form to your body maximising
freedom of movement and comfort, without
sacrificing performance.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
Outdoor Research SuperStrand LT Jacket
RRP $319.99
Ultralight and packable, featuring
VerticalX SuperStrand insulation that
is as soft, light and lofty as 700-800 fill
power down giving you the best of both
down and synthetic insulation. Ripstop
nylon shell and lining for abrasion,
water and wind resistance, a quilting
pattern that reduces stitching and
creates an uninterrupted flow of warmth
and it stows in its own pocket. Available
in men’s and women’s hoodie and
jacket versions. 272g (women’s med)
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Black Diamond Women’s Pursuit 15L
Backpack RRP: $269.99
Designed for tagging summits and
scrambling in the high alpine, the
Women’s Pursuit 15 Pack carries
everything you need for a day of
light and fast mountain travel.
Black Diamond Women’s Pursuit 30L
Backpack RRP: $329.99
Bagging more than one summit in
a day? The Women’s Pursuit 30
Pack will keep you moving light
and fast, peak after peak.
Pursuit Daypacks are built with a custom “BD Continuous Fit Harness” with a seamless
“wing” body construction that contours to the body for maximum comfort on the move. A
women’s specific fit in the shoulders, chest, and hips ensures all-day comfort.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
Anatom V2 Suilven Light Hiking Boots
RRP $279.99
Light, comfortable and supportive
boot for trekking and light hiking
adventures. The Vibram® outsole
and cushioned midsole provide
excellent traction, stability and shock
absorption and combine with a
waterproof, breathable membrane
system to keep your feet comfy and
dry. 800g (pair, size 38)
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Merrell Moab 3 Women's Hikers RRP $259.00
For over 15 years, the Merrell® Moab has
been the choice of hikers when a choice
needs to be made, making it the bestselling
hiker in the world. Famous for its out-ofthe-box
comfort, durability and all-purpose
versatility, its predecessors have enabled 25
million people to step further outdoors.
The all new Moab 3 features a new more
supportive insole, a softer more cushioned
midsole, and a best-in-class Vibram®
outsole. Our newest generation is the most
environmentally friendly Moab ever, utilizing
recycled materials in construction.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
SALEWA PEDROC PRO MID PTX RRP $459.90
The Pedroc Pro Mid PTX is a lightweight
technical shoe, with a mid-cut upper. The
SALEWA® 3F system and Ankle Protector
system provide additional support and
stability, while an abrasion-resistant double
ripstop upper with TPU rand provide
enhanced protection. Weather protection and
breathability are provided by our sustainable
Powertex® PFC-free waterproof membrane.
The EVA midsole delivers optimal rebound,
and the Pomoca Speed Hiker Pro outsole
has a multi-directional lug pattern that works
well on mud, grass and rock.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 390 g
(W) 290 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//69

RAB Microlight Alpine Down Jacket
RRP $399.95
Combining proven mountain
utility with refined styling and
feather-light packability, our
updated Women’s Microlight
Alpine Jacket is the perfect
down layer for quick-grab
mountain insulation.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.CO.NZ
RAB Xenair Alpine Light Jacket RRP $379.95
Adaptable, lightweight, and versatile,
the Xenair Alpine Light Hoody is
a dual weight, synthetic insulated
jacket that excels in mixed conditions
and start stop activities.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.CO.NZ
RAB Nexus Hoody RRP $179.95
A lightweight hooded slim fit
midlayer, the Nexus Hoody is
a versatile staple perfect for
keeping you warm on cool
hikes, climbs and scrambles.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.CO.NZ
RAB Namche GORE-TEX Jacket RRP $699.95
Ideal for navigating forest trails,
hillwalking, and mountain hikes,
it’s a versatile everyday waterproof
offering premium waterproof
performance and breathability.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.CO.NZ
Outdoor Research MicroGravity AscentShell
Jacket RRP $499.99
Lightweight, fully waterproof jacket built to
withstand the changing conditions in highalpine
terrain while also breathing when
you're working hard. Helmet-compatible
hood, Dynamic Reach underarm panels
and the ability to stow it in its own pocket.
An excellent choice for your trail, ski and
alpine and rock climbing adventures.
371g (women’s med)
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
cotopaxi Fuego Down Hooded Jacket RRP $499.99
Cotopaxi’s Fuego Down Jackets are versatile,
water-resistant, and lightweight. Not only will
Fuego keep you warm, it’s also made with
responsibly sourced, RDS-certified down.
WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ
Outdoor Research Helium Down Hoody
RRP $499.99
Lightweight, durable, abrasionresistant,
41%-recycled Pertex®
Quantum with Diamond Fuse
Technology that protects the 800+ fillpower
Responsibly Sourced Down. A
waterproof version of Pertex® Shield
fabric adds weather protection to
the adjustable hood and shoulders.
Internal stash pockets, stows into its
pocket. The jacket you want for alpine
adventures. 437g (women’s med)
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

mountain equipment Particle Hooded
Women's Jacket *RRP: $349.00
Warm, windproof jacket with recycled
insulation and a lightweight design,
perfect for hiking, climbing, or
everyday wear.
Available in a range of colours.
Mountain Equipment Garwhal GORE-TEX
Women's Jacket *RRP: $499.00
Packable GORE-TEX PACLITE®
jacket with waterproof, windproof,
and breathable construction for
lightweight protection on outdoor
adventures.
Available in a range of colours.
mountain equipment Super Alpine
Women's Glove *RRP $189.00
Pontetorto softshell gloves with
Pittards® Oiltac® leather palms
for exceptional grip in wet or
dry conditions, plus a warm
microfleece lining.
Mountain Equipment Nanda Devi Women's
GORE-TEX Jacket t *RRP: $649.00
Sustainable GORE-TEX jacket
with a recycled lining, PFC-free
DWR, and durable construction for
versatile mountain use.
Available in a range of colours.
Mountain Equipment Glacier 450
Women's Sleeping Bag
*RRP: $849.00
Lightweight, water-resistant
down sleeping bag with 700
fill power duck down and a
technical design for optimal
warmth and efficiency.
Xtrom 20W Fuel Series 5 Power Bank - 10.000mAh
*RRP: $79.95
Compact, airline-safe power bank with
10,000mAh capacity, fast-charging, and
multiple safety features for worry-free travel.
*prices are subject to change
Find the full product range online at www.outdooraction.co.nz
Follow us on Instagram and Facebook @outdooractionnz

CamelBak Women’s specific models
are tailored to fit female frames.
• S-curved shoulder harnesses
are specifically-contoured to fit a
woman's body for added comfort and
stability.
• The Air Support Back Panel
was designed with body-mapping
technology to identify and ventilate
the areas of the body that generate
the most heat.
• 3D Vent Mesh Harness is
lightweight and breathable -
designed for all-day comfort.
camelbak Circuit Run Vest RRP $179.99
The Women's Circuit Run Vest with
Crux® 1.5L reservoir gives you the
freedom to go farther.
This vest is the perfect companion to your
weekend adventures. It's lightweight,
stretchy, and breathable.
• Dual Adjustable Chest Straps for an
easily customizable fit
• Tube Trap for easy, on-the-go hydration
• Fuel and Gear Storage
• Trekking Pole Attachment.
• Secure Phone Pocket
• Highly visible points of reflectivity
• Safety Whistle
• Ultralight Materials
• Silver Sustainability: Made with
recycled materials and safer chemicals
camelbak Zephyr Pro Vest RRP $279.99
camelbak Trail Run Vest RRP $199.99
RUN
Taking running to new heights is what we live for,
so we built the Women's Zephyr Pro Vest with
Two 17oz Quick Stow Flasks.
Whether you're a hardcore ultra-marathoner,
weekend warrior, or testing your personal limits this
vest is engineered to maximize your comfort and
performance.
• Engineering Knit Mesh with Body Mapping
Technology
• Four-Point Compression to help the vest to fit
your body
• Dual Adjustable Chest Straps for an easily
customizable fit
• Stow-able and Fully Removable Trekking Pole
Quiver
• Secure easy-to-access phone pocket.
• Stretch Overflow Pockets for any extra gear
• Fuel and Gear Storage
• Highly visible points of reflectivity
• Safety Whistle
• Ultralight Materials
• Tube Trap: Allows the versatility of using a
reservoir
• Quick Stow Flasks: lightweight, collapsible
flasks fit easily into the pockets
• Silver Sustainability: Made with recycled
materials and safer chemicals
The Women's Trail Run Vest with Two 17oz
Quick Stow Flasks is built so you can explore
every corner, every peak and every valley.
When you're running toward a mountain peak, or
logging miles of trails, reaching your destination
means more than just getting to the top.
• 3D Vent Mesh: Engineered to maximize airflow
and comfort
• Dual Adjustable Chest Straps for an easily
customizable fit
• Secure easy-to-access phone pocket
• Stretch Overflow Pockets for any extra gear
• Fuel and Gear Storage
• Trekking Pole Attachment
• Highly visible points of reflectivity
• Safety Whistle
• Tube Trap
• Ultralight Materials
• Silver Sustainability: Made with recycled
materials and safer chemical
camelbak Rim Runner X20 RRP $199.99
Capacity and comfort combine in the new
Women's Rim Runner X20 hydration
backpack.
Fuel up for fun on the run with our 2.5L
Crux® Reservoir.
• Ventilated harness ensures lasting
breathability
• Air Support Back Panel
• Command Center Harness: Easy and
secure access to essentials
• Stretch Overflow Pocket: Quickly stash an
extra layer
• Load Bearing Hip Belt with Cargo:
Transfers weight to hips and and adds
storage
• Adjustable and removable Sternum Strap
for a custom fit and increased stability
• Essentials Organisation Pockets
• Side Stretch Pocket
• Repurpose Gold Sustainability Badge:
Made with recycled materials and safer
chemicals
HIKE
72//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

BIKE
camelbak M.U.L.E.® Pro 14 100 Oz RRP $279.99
Women's M.U.L.E.® Pro 14 will take you from one epic
ride to the next.
• Adjustable Sternum Strap for a custom fit and increased
stability
• Impact Protection Ready: Compatible with the CamelBak
Impact Protector (sold separately)
• 3L Crux® Reservoir
• Hip Belt With Cargo: Added stability and quick access to
essentials
• Helmet Carry
• Integrated Tool Roll
• E-Bike Battery Sleeve: Securely and safely ride with a
second e-bike battery for all-day adventures
• Stretch Overflow Pocket: Quickly stash an extra layer
• Cargo Compression
• Soft Lined Pocket for glasses or goggles
• Magnetic Tube Trap keeps your tube secure
• Reflectivity for low light safety
camelbak Chase Adventure 8 Hydration Vest
RRP $249.99
The Women’s Chase Adventure 8 Hydration
Vest with Crux® 2L Reservoir is built for long
days in the saddle exploring the unknown.
• Made from lightweight 420D recycled nylon, it's
rugged but stays breathable
• Stable, bounce-free design keeps your vest secure,
stable, and comfortable
• Dual Adjustable Sternum Straps for a custom fit and
increased stability
• Impact Protection Ready: Compatible with our
Impact Protector panel
• Command Centre Harness: Easy and secure
access to essentials
• Integrated Tool Organization
• Sits Above Jersey Pockets
• Reflectivity for low light safety
• Stretch Overflow Pocket: Quickly stash or shed an
extra layer
• Elastic Pump Loop
• GOLD: Made with recycled materials and safer
chemicals
camelbak Lobo 9 Hydration Pack 70 Oz
RRP $199.99
Let the Lobo redesign redefine
what it means for a woman's pack
to multitask, loaded with features
designed to fit MTB, hike, run and
bike lifestyles.
• Hands-free hydration from a 2L
Crux® Reservoir Quicklink System
• Magnetic Tube Trap
• Removable waist strap adds stability
when needed
• Ventilated harness ensures lasting
breathability
• Helmet Carry
• Integrated Carry Pockets: Keep your
tools and repair kit organized
• Repurpose Gold Sustainability
Badge: Made with recycled materials
and with safer chemicals
camelbak Chase Bike Vest $179.99
The Women’s Chase Bike Vest was
made for our fearless female riders.
For elite racers to the everyday
enthusiast, Chase has been redesigned
with lightweight, breathable materials
and a comfortable all-day fit.
• 3D Vent Mesh Harness: Lightweight
and breathable with added cargo
• Dual Adjustable Sternum Straps for
a custom fit and increased stability
• 1.5L Reservoir
• Integrated Tool Organization
• Easy Access Harness Pockets
• Sits Above Jersey Pockets
• Secure Zippered Pocket:
• Reflectivity for low light safety
• Stretch Overflow Pocket: Quickly
stash or shed an extra layer
camelbak M.U.L.E.® 12 Hydration Pack RRP $219.99
Our M.U.L.E.® 12 Hydration Backpacks are
already MTB’s best friend.
The updated classic go-to pack means you're never
left trailing behind. It's the perfect size, comes with
premium hydration and has all the features to make
every bike adventure awesome.
• 3L reservoir with Quicklink System delivers
easy-access hydration
• Magnetic Tube Trap
• Removable Waist Strap
• Helmet Carry
• Stretch Overflow Pocket: Quickly stash an extra
layer
• Integrated Carry Pockets: Keep your tools and
repair kit organized
• Repurpose Gold Sustainability Badge: Made with
recycled materials and with safer chemicals
camelbak Rogue Light RRP $149.99
The Women’s Rogue Light
is everything you crave for the
everyday trail: minimal, durable,
cool, and comfortable.
The sleek, lightweight design features
the Air Support Light Back Panel
and a ventilated harness for effective
cooling and ultimate breathability.
• 7-litre capacity includes a 2L Crux®
Reservoir with Quicklink disconnect.
• Stow and secure a light layer in the
stretch overflow pocket
• Reflective safety detailing
• Secured, zippered pocket
• Adjustable sternum straps for a
custom fit
• Helmet carry
camelbak Hydrobak Light
RRP $109.99
Take only what you
need with the Women's
Hydrobak Light.
This minimal carry pack
accommodates a 1.5L Crux®
Reservoir with Quicklink
disconnect, plus an extra
1L of cargo space for basic
essentials.
• Lightweight and durable
materials
• Adjustable sternum strap
• Helmet carry
• Light loop
• Reflective detailing
• Secure zippered pocket
• Tube Trap
Find a Stockist: southernapproach.co.nz
IG and FB @southernapproachnz

SALEWA PUEZ KNIT POWERTEX RRP $449.90
Designed for long-lasting comfort during
extended mountain hikes on rugged trails
and varied terrain – or for every day,
urban exploration. Featuring an abrasionresistant
knitted nylon upper, reinforced toe
cap, and all-round protective rubber rand.
Climate control is provided by our PFCfree
waterproof and breathable Powertex®
membrane. Underfoot is the new Salewa
Edging Plate II, a special thermoplastic
frame that runs the entire length of the shoe,
offering a combination of enhanced flex
and rebound for long-lasting comfort, and
the Pomoca Alpine Trekker outsole offers
excellent grip across varied terrain.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 470 g (pictured)
(W) 375 g
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 GTX RRP $399.90
The Alp Trainer 2 GTX has a suede
leather and stretch fabric upper with a
protective rubber rand for protection
against rock, scree and debris. Featuring
a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort
lining for optimal waterproofing and
breathability. The EVA midsole provides
superior cushioning and excellent
comfort for a technical shoe. Climbing
Lacing right to the toe allows for a more
precise fit, while the Vibram® Alpine
Hiking outsole covers a wide spectrum
of mixed mountain terrain.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 470 g
(pictured) (W) 370 g
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
Merrell Bravada 2 Thermo Mid Waterproof Women's
RRP $299.00
Winter-capable and weather-ready, the
Bravada 2 Thermo is a women’s specific
boot that fits like a sneaker and hugs the
ankle with added insulation to keep you warm
throughout winter.
Features include:
• Waterproof membrane seals out water and
lets moisture escape
• Waterproof nubuck and nylon upper
• 100% recycled laces and webbing
• Bellows tongue keeps out debris
• 100% recycled fleece lining
• 100 grams lightweight, low bulk insulation
for warmth and comfort
• 50% recycled removable EVA foam footbed
• 100% recycled fleece footbed cover
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
Merrell Moab Speed 2 RRP $289.00
The Moab Speed 2 GORE-TEX® is the
latest innovation in hiking from Merrell. This
new and improved generation of hiking
shoes pairs the knowledge and trail insights
from the best-selling hiking boot, the Moab,
with the latest innovations from athletic
hikers across the globe.
Made for trails with some obstacles and
moderate debris. Occasional speed,
direction, and vertical changes.
Features include:
• Padded collar
• Bellows tongue keeps out debris
• Protective and abrasion resistant synthetic
heel and toe cap
• Dual heel and tongue loops for ease of
entry as well as carabiner compatibility
• Cleansport NXT treated for natural odor
control
• Lightweight FlexPlate technology
provides torsional rigidity, lateral stability,
and forefoot flexibility.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 MID GTX RRP $649.90
The next generation of our bestselling, robust and
reliable alpine trekking boot is now lighter and
more flexible. It has a robust, hard-wearing suede
leather upper with a full 360° protective rubber
rand. Equipped with a GORE-TEX® Performance
Comfort membrane for weather protection and
optimized breathability. The dual density expanded
PU midsole offers a good balance of cushioning
and stiffness, and the self-cleaning Vibram® WTC
2 outsole is engineered for improved grip and
traction in a wide range of conditions.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 600 g (W) 470 g
(pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA ORTLES ASCENT MID GORE-TEX® RRP $799.90
Featuring a thick suede leather upper,
SALEWA® 3F system with steel cables
and reinforced TPU rand make this allmountain
boot exceptionally robust and
durable. The carbon-loaded nylon fibreglass
insole increases stability during activity,
and the engineered dual density expanded
polyurethane midsole with dedicated stiff
and cushioned zones ensures comfort and
precision. The waterproof, breathable GORE-
TEX® Performance Comfort membrane has
an integrated insulation layer. The Flex Collar
improves rear ankle flexion, and the semi-auto
crampon compatible Vibram® Alpine Guide
sole unit is engineered for traction, durability
and reliability on difficult terrain.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 850 g (pictured)
(W) 660 g
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 MID GTX RRP $479.90
The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a
suede leather and stretch fabric upper
with a protective rubber rand. Featuring
a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort
lining for optimal waterproofing and
breathability, and the customizable
Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with
interchangeable layers allows you to
adapt it to the unique shape of your
foot. Climbing Lacing right to the toe
allows for a more precise fit, while
the Vibram® Hike Approach outsole
performs across a wide spectrum of
mountain terrain.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g (W)
482 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

Better
views
comes
to
those
who
hike.
Women’s
All New: Moab Speed 2
The future of hiking.
merrell.co.nz

ZEROFIT Heatrub Ultimate $129.95(AUD)
Baselayer, Thermal
The award-winning Heatrub
Ultimate is best-in-class baselayer
that uses enhanced Heat Threads
inside the garment that are
activated through movement,
gently brushing against the skin to
generate positive warmth instantly.
WWW.ZEROFIT.COM.AU/PRODUCT/
HEATRUB-ULTIMATE-UNISEX/
ZEROFIT Heatrub move $109.95 (AUD)
Baselayer, Thermal
The Move features a 45%
polypropylene inner / hollow
polyester shell that work in
tandem to regulate body
temperature, so as you work
harder for longer, you don’t
overheat in the conditions.
WWW.ZEROFIT.COM.AU/
PRODUCT/HEATRUB-MOVE/
Outdoor Research Arete II
GORE-TEX Gloves $189.99
Modular insulated
GORE-TEX® protection
with warm and wicking
removable lightweight
merino wool liners.
Dextrous, waterproof
protection ideal for
adventures in the snow.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
ZEROFIT Heatrub neckwarmer
$49.95 (AUD)
Adventure Wear, Thermal
The Neck Warmer uses the
same ‘heat threads’ that
feature in the award-winning
Ultimate baselayer, which has
been independently proven to
be five times warmer than a
standard product.
WWW.ZEROFIT.COM.AU/
PRODUCT/HEATRUB-
NECKWARMER/
STOKEDNZ adventure Towelie (towel
poncho) rrp $114.00
Portable change room + towel
all in one! Get changed, dry,
cozy, anytime, anywhere inside
a towelie. Super absorbent,
lightweight, quick-drying 100%
Turkish Cotton.
Ethically made.
WWW.STOKEDNZ.CO.NZ
cotopaxi Travel Cube Bundle
RRP $109.99
Made with repurposed
materials, receive all three sizes
in one colourful bundle. Keep
all your essentials organised
with the Cotopaxi Del Día Travel
Cube Bundle.
WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ
That’s It first aid gel
RRP $24.50
Anti-bacterial & anti-fungal, made
with high-grade NZ Mānuka
Oil. Our First Aid Gel is built to
heal wounds and protect you
from infection. A 100% natural
antiseptic that is our go-to fix it gel
for all those cuts, burns, bites. Buy
online or find a retailer near you.
WWW.THATSIT.NZ
KEA kit $80.00 (GO) - $120.00 (XL)
KEA KIT GO & XL are Outdoor Survival
Systems to help pack essential safety gear.
GO for on the move and the XL for vehicle/
basecamp
WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.COM
bear cottage Possum Merino Wool
Ombre Throw $195.00
A unique and luxurious blend
of NZ possum fur and pure NZ
merino lambswool. A beautiful
luxurious Multi Tone Throw – so
versatile, so light and ever so
warm.
35% Possum Fur, 55% Merino
Lambswool, 10% Mulberry Silk.
Measurements approx: 1.24m x
1.71m
WWW.BEARCOTTAGE.CO.NZ
KEA SURVIVAL KIT GEAR PACKS $40.00- $50.00
KEA Gear Packs are built for purpose and contain all the
essential gear required to pack or refill your outdoor survival kit.
WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.COM
76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

THE WORLD’S
WARMEST BASELAYER ®
Now available in Australia and New Zealand, Japanese baselayer brand Zerofit has created a range of game-changing, best-in-class
products that allow skiers and snowboarders to stay warm on the slopes, even in the coldest of conditions.
Designed by a passionate team of innovators and baselayer specialists, the Zerofit Heatrub Ultimate is the most technically
advanced baselayer on the planet and completely different to any other product you’ve ever worn before.
WHAT MAKES IT SO GOOD?
1. It’s five times warmer than a
standard baselayer
That is quite a claim, but it’s a fact. Tested at the
iconic Boken Institute in Osaka, the Heatrub
Ultimate baselayer recorded a Heat Retention
Rating of 0.78; a standard product would have a
rating of between 0.1 to 0.14, while a jumper
would typically have a rating of 0.3. The Ultimate
performs best in a temperature range of -10°
Celsius thru 10° Celsius, making it an essential
piece of kit for the whole season.
3. Fewer layers, greater
warmth and freedom to move
The Ultimate is the ideal product for skiers
and snowboarders who dislike traditional
tight baselayers. Previously, you may have
‘layered up’ in order to combat the effects
of cold weather – however, bulky layers
can restrict your movements. This is where
we are changing the game. The Ultimate is
so good at keeping you warm, you won’t
need these multiple additional layers..
2. Instant warmth the moment 4. Heat Threads for top-totoe
warmth this winter
you put it on
A standard baselayer traps body heat between Innovative ‘Heat Threads’ positioned on
your skin and the material, so it takes a little time the inside of the garment gently rub
before you feel the benefits. With the Heatrub against your skin as you move, which
Ultimate, five separate fabrics, along with a creates positive warmth across your body.
patented knitting process, create instant warmth We also produce Heatrub Ultimate
as soon as you pull it on. While other brands rely Leggings and Socks that are made from
on compression for heat, our unique fabric mix the same material and work in exactly the
means you don’t need the tightness in order for it same way, so you can have top-to-toe
to work, making it super comfortable too. warmth with Zerofit.
Five times
warmer than
a standard
baselayer
No need for
multiple
additional
layers – a gamechanger
Instant heat
the minute you
put it on
Heating
from top
to toe
READER OFFER!
Buy any Zerofit baselayer and receive a
FREE THERMAL POM BEANIE
Worth $39.95 using code ADV001
at checkout
ADAPTABLE WARMTH THE HEATRUB
MOVE BASELAYER
The Ultimate baselayer is perfect for the
coldest of conditions, but it is
complemented by the Heatrub Move
($109.95), which is twice as warm as a
standard baselayer and ideal for more
active and accomplished skiers and
snowboarders who will build up a sweat.
The Move features a 45% polypropylene
construction on the inside of the
baselayer and a hollow polyester shell that
combine for this concept of ‘Adaptable
Warmth’, keeping you cosy when you’re at
a standstill yet regulating temperature
and ensuring you don’t overheat as the
day goes on. The construction removes
sweat from the skin and evaporates it off
the surface of the baselayer quickly, so
that nasty feeling of ‘cold sweat’ never
materialises, and the product has been
innovated to work best in a temperature
range of between -5° and 12° Celsius.
Zerofit Heatrub Ultimate baselayer (available in Black, Grey and Navy) – $129.95 ■ Zerofit Heatrub Ultimate leggings (available in Black) – $129.95
■ Zerofit Heatrub Ultimate socks (available in Black) - $49.95 ■ Zerofit Heatrub Move baselayer (available in Black, White and Titanium) - $109.95
FOLLOW US!
@zerofitaustralia FOR MORE DETAILS, PLEASE CONTACT zerofit@dynacast.com.au
SEE THE FULL RANGE AT WWW.ZEROFIT.COM.AU

Reviews
Your Ultimate Lightweight Travel Companion
Cotopaxi’s Allpa 28L Del Día -
Short haul or going somewhere tropical, you don't want
a lot of baggage. Travelling light just got a lot easier with
the Allpa 28L Del Día—a more compact, agile version of
its older sibling, the Allpa 35L Del Día Travel Pack. Right
off the bat, you'll notice the thoughtful design to provide
comfort even when the pack is fully loaded.
The main standout (apart from the colour) is the interior
compartment of the Allpa 28L. It is a traveller's dream.
It has a suitcase-style, wrap-around zipper, so you can
effortlessly access and view your belongings; no more
pulling out half a backpack to get to something at the
bottom of your bag. Inside the mesh dividers, everything
stays in place during transit.
Everyone carries a laptop or a tablet these days, and the
padded laptop and tablet sleeves are easily accessible
via the exterior right-side zipper. There is also a divided
pocket on the top of the bag for a passport, wallet, etc. -
those small essentials. Cotopaxi seem to have thought of
everything under the side handles there is a small pocket
with a rain cover as well.
Another cool feature is the slotted back panel that neatly
houses the shoulder straps and hip belt, preventing them
from snagging in overhead bins or on the luggage conveyor
belt. With four reinforced grab handles, you have multiple
carry options when the shoulder straps are tucked away.
Cotopaxi has also added lash points so that you could
connect additional stuff to carry if needed.
The Allpa 28L Del Día is not just a backpack—it's a wellthought-out
travel companion designed to make your
journeys smoother and more enjoyable. Whether navigating
busy airports or embarking on a weekend adventure,
this pack has the features to keep you comfortable and
organised.
Not only is it a great travel pack, but as with all Cotopaxi
products, it is environmentally friendly.
www.cotopaxi.co.nz
More than just keeping dry
Timberlands Caps Ridge Waterproof Jacket
Timberland, the iconic brand that marries style with quality,
recently handed me their new Cap Ridge Waterproof Jacket for
a thorough review. I took it from the rugged alpine to the stormy
local streets, and even for a walk on a sunny yet cold windy
day. Let me tell you, this jacket is more than just a pretty face.
From the first wear, the Cap Ridge Waterproof Jacket shouts
both fashion and function. Crafted from 100% recycled
polyester, it doesn’t just perform well; it aligns perfectly with
eco-conscious values. Unlike many rain jackets that fit like a
wetsuit or ride up like a crop top, the Cap Ridge hits the sweet
spot with a centre-back length of 73.7 cm in a large size. It
offers just the right coverage, mobility, and water runoff.
The details here are what really shine. A snug zip collar closure
and neoprene chin guard fend off wind and rain like a pro.
The 3-layer waterproof fabric, with the membrane sandwiched
between the face fabric and a protective knit backing, keeps
you dry and comfortable. I faced a torrential downpour in alpine
conditions with fierce winds, and this jacket didn’t let a drop in.
Timberland nailed the balance between protection and comfort.
The adjustable hood with cord-lock, underarm vents, and cuff
adjusters ensures a perfect fit without the usual sticky feeling of
waterproof gear. The ergonomic sleeves allow for unrestricted
movement, and an internal strap lets you carry the jacket easily
when it's not needed.
Despite its toughness, the jacket is impressively lightweight
at just 155g/m2. I wore it through a wind-lashed, rainy alpine
hike, strolled city streets, and even walked the dog in every
imaginable weather. As winter looms, it will be my go-to
waterproof layer for skiing on warmer days.
The Men’s Caps Ridge Waterproof Jacket is a top-tier product
blending cutting-edge tech with classic design. Its sustainable
build and exceptional protection make it a standout. Whether
you're scaling peaks, exploring urban landscapes, or enjoying
a beach walk with the dog, this jacket keeps you stylishly dry.
And the colour? Absolutely love it!
www.timberland.co.nz
78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

FEED YOUR ADDICTION
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and
development in online stores over the past 5 years.
We are dedicating these pages to our client’s online stores; some
you will be able to buy from, some you will be able drool over. Buy,
compare, research and prepare, these online stores are a great way to
feed your adventure addiction.
The best outdoor equipment for all of your adventurous
antics. Outdoor Action has you sorted.
www.outdooraction.co.nz
Building versatile and reliable gear so you
can adventure with purpose.
www.keaoutdoors.com
Shop men's, women's, and kids' boots, shoes, and
clothing at Timberland NZ official online store.
www.timberland.co.nz
The place to go for all the gear you need whether you're skiing,
snowboarding, hiking, biking or just exploring.
www.thealpinecentre.co.nz
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.
www.patagonia.co.nz
Stocking an extensive range
of global outdoor adventure
brands for your next big
adventure. See them for travel,
tramping, trekking, alpine and
lifestyle clothing and gear.
www.outfittersstore.nz
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz
The only baselayer
you'll need. 5 x
warmer than a
traditional baselayer
www.zerofit.com.au
Bobo Products, a leading importer and distributor of snow
and outdoor products in New Zealand.
www.bobo.co.nz

Aspiring Guides offers specialised, innovative & personalised
mountain guiding services.
www.aspiringguides.com
Amazing holidays for active people and those who seek
‘travel less ordinary’. www.wildsidetravel.co.nz
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best
brands across New Zealand & the globe.
www.bivouac.co.nz
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.
www.merrell.co.nz
Top NZ made health supplements delivered straight
to your door, with same day dispatch.
www.supps.nz
This small, friendly family-run company is based in Lake
Tekapo, New Zealand, specializing in guided outdoor
adventures throughout New Zealand's Southern Alps.
www.alpinerecreation.com
With 22 locations around NZ
we’re one of the largest car
rental networks in the country.
www.rad.co.nz
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Your adventure travel specialists, with over 20 years
experience! They live what they sell.
www.madabouttravel.co.nz
Supplying tents and
camping gear to Kiwis
for over 30 years, Kiwi
Camping are proud to
be recognised as one of
the most trusted outdoor
brands in New Zealand.
www.kiwicamping.co.nz
NZ world class climbing centre.
Your climbing experience is at
the heart of what they do. They
provide trained and competent
professionals that are psyched
on climbing and passionate
about supporting others.
www.northenrocks.co.nz
Chickfly pants were created to solve the bathroom problem
that women (and others) face every day.
www.chickfly.com

Dreamlike Desertscapes
Chasing Solitude in the Andean Borderlands
By Steve Marks, aka the Malbec Pilgrim
I hadn’t often thought of breathing as
a labourious activity, but this didn’t feel
right. Walking sluggishly, I wheeled
my bike alongside me. The loose
gravel surface wasn't easy but was still
rideable, and the 7% gradient was tough
but certainly not beyond me. Neither
of those were my problem: my issue
was I simply had no puff, no energy,
and no confidence either was coming
back anytime soon. For the first time
in my South American bicycle tour, my
elevation not only pushed past 3500
metres but steepened quickly towards
a 4400 metre summit. Somewhere in
there, my lungs just gave up and my
headspace spun dizzyingly. Pedalling
became so stop/start it was easier to
get off and walk. Despite the struggle,
my surroundings were incredible - the
hypnotic morphing of mountains with
a stark and lifeless red-hued desert
resulted in a strange landscape I’d never
experienced before.
A few days prior I’d been in the dusty
Argentinian town of Villa Union, asking
myself the final hard question as to
whether I should undertake the path
that lay before me. A decade earlier
the legendary English couple Neil and
Harriet Pike (or “Pikes on Bikes”) had
popularised a difficult route between
Villa Union and Fiambala via two high
mountain passes on the Argentina/Chile
border - Paso Pircas Negras, and Paso
San Francisco. My previous personal
record for time between resupply points
was only 3 days, but now I was staring
down the barrel of nearly two weeks
riding among the high Andes just to get
between one small shop and the next.
At times the idea seemed exciting,
at others more intimidating. I had
wondered if I might stumble across other
cycle-tourists planning the same route,
but that never panned out and I even
briefly toyed with the idea of sacking it
all off completely. In the end I knuckled
under and decided to go alone.
Northern Argentina was in the grip of
a serious heatwave, and as I rolled
out of Villa Union there was no sign
of it letting up. The triple whammy
of a gradual uphill grind, the tarmac
collapsing into gravel, and the mercury
pushing towards 35C (95F) made for an
exhausting ride as the road twisted up a
desolate, rocky valley.
I got as far as Jague, a tiny groupscule
of simple houses but with no shops.
There was, however, a Posada (or
lodge), so I decided to hole up there
for the night and set out again early the
next morning to beat the heat.
“So you’re heading on the loop via
the Pircas Negras and San Francisco
passes alone?”, remarked Carlos, the
friendly manager. “I get a few cyclists
through here each summer, although it’s
almost always couples or small groups.
It’s not normal that someone comes
here alone”, he added hesitantly.
As I went to pay up in the morning,
Carlos refused any money – not only
had I had a bedroom with a private
bathroom for the night, I’d also had
dinner with a beer, breakfast, soft drinks,
and fruit. “It’s a challenging path you
have ahead of you, and you’re also
going alone. I’m quite happy making
my contribution to get you started right”,
he insisted. This was of course damn
nice of him, but it also stoked a little
paranoia as to what I was trying to do
here exactly that prompted a stranger to
suddenly be so generous.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//83

The next 60km climbed from 1900 meters
up to 3600 meters with a gradient that
started mellow and steepened as the day
wore on, and the scorching heat of the
sun followed a similar exponential curve.
Traffic was almost non-existent up the
rocky valley save for occasional 4WDs
shuttling tourists about to see some of
the mountain lagoons further ahead. The
“ripio” (gravel) became increasingly sandy,
and I was forced to dismount and walk
often.
Darkness settled as I arrived at Refugio El
Penon, one of a number of 19th-century
stone huts built with the original purpose
of providing shelter to “gauchos” (the Latin
American equivalent of cowboys) bringing
horses over the difficult mountain pass.
These days the refugios serve as curious
relics of history to passing tourists, but a
quirky and sheltered place to free-camp for
those who tackle the Andes by bicycle.
The next morning the road climbed sharply
from 3600 to 4400 metres, and the tough
gradient was exacerbated by a harrowing
headwind. A trickle of stream-water across
the road had frozen solid overnight and
crunched underneath my tyres. Despite
having slept at 3600 metres, my lungs still
hadn’t caught up with the rapid change
in altitude. I spent over half of the ascent
walking my bike in between pauses for
slow deep-breathing and trying to sort out
my foggy headspace.
In this part of the Andes, most of the rain
falls on the western face so rarely gets
through to the Argentinian side. Hence the
ascent towards Pircas Negras pass sits in
a “rain shadow” (ie. somewhere it almost
never rains), giving an other-worldly
ambience to this curious phenomenon of
a desert among the mountains. The result
is something akin to being on another
planet entirely. It was how I might imagine
a mountain range on Tattooine, the desert
planet home to Luke Skywalker. The
ethereally colourful mix-up of the sandy
surface exhibited mottled shades of brown,
red and yellow making it quite unlike any
mountain range I’d seen, before the road
topped out at 4400 metres around the
shores of a salty mountain lagoon named
Laguna Brava.
Around the back of the Laguna was
another 19th Century stone hut. Despite
having only cycled 38km, my general
fatigue and the extremity of the winds
made it a good place to call time. What
the refugio also had, curiously enough,
was a human skeleton. One of those
involved in building the many refugios
back around 1870 suffered severe burns
when he dropped a lantern, and died
from his injuries. His skeleton now rests
in a partly-exposed tomb built outside the
refugio walls, so at least I had company for
the night even if he didn’t say a lot.
"The aura of waking up to
a clear blue sky and next to
a high altitude mountain
lagoon was so captivating
I went on a meandering
walk along the shoreline.
Quiet. Still. Nobody. I was
beginning to learn that
this type of moment would
underline this excursion. "
Another 40km took me to the combined
Argentina/Chile Immigration Office which
had a free bunkhouse out back, although
the shower only gave half a minute of
luke-warm water before it ran icy cold.
Having not been able to shower for a few
days, according to all reliable intelligence
it would be another 8 days before the
opportunity would come up again. I
replenished my spirits by cooking up some
pasta in their kitchen and was cordially
invited to relax in the mess hall as the
affable staff whiled away their evening
watching some Adam Sandler movie
dubbed into Spanish.
Severe headwinds plagued my final
stretch towards the Pircas Negras pass
which demarcates the actual border
between the two countries. On occasions,
when the gusting really gave it one, I just
allowed myself to be blown to a complete
stop while burying my face towards
my chest waiting for the consequent
mini-sandstorms to roar through. My
speed was barely 4km per hour. The
challenging conditions felt exacerbated
by the remoteness of the red-hued desert
surroundings - during the whole day’s
riding, I saw just one car despite being
on officially marked (albeit lumpy gravel)
roads.
On the descent into Chile, I stumbled
across a complex of abandoned buildings
I soon realised was the old Chilean
Immigration post. It never used to be the
case that Argentina and Chile shared an
Immigration office; they previously each
had their own set back from the border.
But given the low volume of traffic through
Pircas Negras, a decision was made
to house them together and the former
Chilean outpost is now deserted and
derelict but I was content to make myself
at home for the evening. One room even
had an abandoned mattress; I just couldn’t
help myself stumbling across such a freecamping
luxury.
As I was sorting through my early morning
thoughts on a rocky valley downhill, I saw
something I wasn’t remotely expecting
to see: a puma, stalking a flock of birds
nesting on scraggy bushes. Now, it had
never occurred to me at any point in my
life as to what my reaction might be if
I ever stumbled across one of nature’s
great cats in the wild while tootling-about
by myself on a bicycle. Pumas aren’t
generally considered dangerous; in fact
they’re more famous for vanishing in an
instant when confronted by any human
presence. Still, I wasn’t taking any
chances that this puma wasn’t the starving
exception so I floored it on the downhill
with occasional glances back over my
shoulder…
In the mountains, there is usually only up
or down; the concept of “flat” barely exists.
After the long descent, 2000 metres of
climbing had me back above the 4000
metre mark again. I was given a brief
respite from cycling when I hit a 15km
stretch off-limits to cyclists, as it was the
site of a mining company hacking gold and
silver out of the rugged surroundings. I
had to load my bike on a pick-up and be
escorted through. Even motorists (not that
there are many) can’t drive through freely
and have to wait for an escort vehicle
to accompany them. One of the mining
office staff was determined to ride my bike
around but complained about how heavy it
felt, even though I’d already taken the front
panniers off.
I emerged into an area of two Andean
lagoons - first, the wild and windswept
Negra Francisco lagoon at 4100 metres
and then the sheltered and scenic Santa
Rosa lagoon at 3800 metres. The road
between the two was a true sandy hell
and cycling was simply impossible on
84//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

"What the refugio also had, curiously enough, was a human skeleton. One of those
involved in building the many refugios back around 1870 suffered severe burns when he
dropped a lantern, and died from his injuries. His skeleton now rests in a partly-exposed
tomb built outside the refugio walls."
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//85

45mm tyres, in fact even walking the bike
involved a lot of effort. On a pancake-flat
surface with no wind, I covered about
13km in 4 hours as the novelty wore off
pretty quickly, and petulant outbursts
erupted from my mouth even though
there was nobody to listen. Luckily some
Australians from a mining exploration
consultancy came past in a 4WD and I
had no qualms flagging them down to
transport me further ahead past the sand.
The millpond-flat Laguna Santa Rosa
was another iconic image of this trip,
with abundant Pink Flamingos resting
nonchalantly on its surface, and backed
by the dreamy snowy peaks of Tres
Cruces (Three Crosses). The only money
I spent in the nearly two weeks of this
story was here, as there was a National
Park entry fee to pay to CONAF (the
Chilean government conservation arm)
in order to get down to the lakeshore,
plus there was a small, staffed refugio
which offered the opportunity to score
a mattress on a floor inside and use a
kitchen for a change although there were
no showers - but by that point I couldn’t
even smell my own stink, so I didn’t
care. The refugio was administered by a
friendly Chilean called Patricio, or Patu as
he preferred to be called. He was fond of
playing tunes on his Charango, which is
similar to a ukulele but has 10 strings and
hails from Bolivia.
More sand roads slowly led to the Chilean
Immigration Office at the base of the San
Francisco pass, even though the border
itself was still 100km away. Another
bunkroom in another immigration office
provided another night's accommodation,
this time with two other cycle-tourists
heading in the opposite direction. The
route back towards Argentina climbed
steadily over several hours, surrounded
by stunning snow-clad volcanic cones. As
evening approached, a gravel track led
off the main road to a free refugio building
at the base of the tallest active volcano in
the world, Ojos de Salada (Salty Eyes),
which towers to 6900 meters. Its snow
covered slopes glistening under the
bright blue sky while surrounded by stark,
desert-like surroundings was one of the
defining views of the whole excursion.
The final climb up and over San Francisco
pass at 4700 metres had me stopping
often for deep breaths to suck up as
much oxygen as possible before I finally
rolled over the summit and the white line
demarcating the end of Chile and my reentry
into Argentina. The moment was
shared with a couple of roadworkers up
there doing some improvements who gave
me a round of applause from their grader.
The final 210km on to Fiambala only took
a little over a day, bombing down from
4700m to 1500m on smooth tarmac. The
speed and ease of the riding almost felt
surreal when contrasted with most of my
recent experience. At one point I clocked
40km in just over an hour, as my mind
cast back to the numerous recent days
where I was unable to go that far in an
entire day. My environment alternated
between colourful rocky valleys and huge
sweeping vistas before I finally rolled into
Fiambala, where I saw my first shop in 12
days. I’m not normally a fan of Argentina’s
main national lager, Quilmes, but that
bottle tasted divine.
And that is where the story of one of the
great routes along the Argentina/Chile
border almost comes to an end, with the
exception of one magnificent postscript.
A short trip out of town are the incredible
thermal pools of Fiambala. Over the
course of cycling nearly 10,000km
between Ushuaia and Lima, I’ve been
to a few different thermal pools along
the Andes but none of them compare
to those at Fiambala. Boiling hot water
gushes out of a spring high up in the
mountainous valley, and a series of fifteen
cascading pools tumble down after one
another ranging from 40 degrees Celsius
at the top pool down to 25 degrees at the
bottom. The site comes complete with a
restaurant and bar. If one of the ultimate
off-the-beaten-track missions in the
high Puna deserves one of the ultimate
locations for a rest day afterwards,
Fiambala’s incredible thermal pools come
across almost as a tailor-made finale.
About the Author: Steve Marks cycled
through this route as part of a wider
journey from Ushuaia (Argentina) up to
Lima (Peru) mainly via the Andes.
You can read more and keep up to date
with his continuing journeys via his
website at www.malbecpilgrim.com ,
his “Malbec Pilgrim” facebook blog
(www.facebook.com/malbecpilgrim),
or @malbecpilgrim on Instagram
(www.instagram.com/malbecpilgrim)
86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

"My environment alternated between colourful rocky valleys and huge sweeping vistas."
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//87

Diving in Rarotonga
Images supplied by Cook Island Tourism
Rarotonga, the largest of the Cook Islands, offers a unique blend of tropical charm and
underwater adventure, making it a premier destination for diving enthusiasts. With its
crystal-clear waters, vibrant coral reefs, and abundant marine life, Rarotonga promises an
unforgettable experience beneath the waves.
The Allure of Rarotonga's Waters
The allure of Rarotonga's waters lies in their clarity and warmth. With visibility often
exceeding 30 meters, divers can expect a clear view of the underwater wonders. The water
temperature ranges between 23°C and 28°C throughout the year, ensuring a comfortable
dive regardless of the season. These conditions create an inviting environment for divers of
all skill levels, from beginners to seasoned professionals.
Top Dive Sites
1. Mataora Wreck: One of the most popular dive sites in Rarotonga is the Mataora Wreck.
This ship was deliberately sunk in 1990 to create an artificial reef, and it has since become
a thriving marine habitat. The wreck sits at a depth of 18-20 meters, making it accessible to
intermediate divers. Exploring the wreck offers a glimpse into a bygone era, with the added
thrill of encountering schools of tropical fish, moray eels, and the occasional turtle.
"The allure of
Rarotonga's waters
lies in their clarity and
warmth. With visibility
often exceeding 30
meters, divers can
expect a clear view
of the underwater
wonders."
2. Edna's Anchor: Named after a large anchor found at the site, Edna's Anchor is a
captivating dive spot that features a series of lava tubes and caverns. This site, located at a
depth of 10-30 meters, is ideal for divers exploring underwater topography. The labyrinthine
structures are home to an array of marine life, including colourful nudibranchs, lionfish, and
reef sharks.
3. The Pinnacles: For advanced divers, The Pinnacles offers a more challenging
and rewarding experience. This site is known for its dramatic underwater landscape,
characterised by towering coral pinnacles rising from the ocean floor. Divers can expect to
see large pelagic species, such as barracuda and trevally, and a variety of reef fish. The
Pinnacles is also a hotspot for spotting manta rays and the elusive hammerhead shark.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//89

Above: The Humpback Whales
Inserts top to bottom: An abundance of fish can be seen from a glass bottom boat, Image by Ken (@ksole_)
Snorkelling, image by Laura Robin Kutekute www.cookislandspocketguide.com
Marine Life Galore
Rarotonga's reefs teem with marine life, offering divers a
kaleidoscope of colours and species. The island's coral gardens
are home to over 500 fish and 100 species of coral. Highlights
include the striking butterflyfish, the elusive angelfish, and the
vibrant parrotfish. Macro enthusiasts will be delighted by the
abundance of tiny critters, such as shrimp, crabs, and seahorses.
The island's conservation efforts play a significant role in
preserving this biodiversity. Local dive operators are committed
to sustainable practices, ensuring the marine environment
remains pristine for future generations. Initiatives such as reef
monitoring, waste reduction, and education programs help protect
Rarotonga's underwater treasures.
For those who cannot dive, there are numerous snorkelling
options, even a glass bottom boat, like Captain Tama’s Boat
Cruise is a great way to see fish, underwater coral gardens, and
even turtles (also an awesome day out).
Preparing for Your Dive Adventure
When planning a dive trip to Rarotonga, it's essential to consider
a few key factors. Firstly, ensure you have the appropriate dive
certification for the sites you wish to explore. While many sites
are suitable for beginners, others, like The Pinnacles, require
advanced skills and experience. There are several dive operators
on the island.
Although Rarotonga's diving conditions are excellent year-round,
the dry season from May to October offers the calmest seas
and most consistent visibility. However, the wet season, from
November to April, brings warmer waters and the chance to see
migratory species such as humpback whales.
90//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#245

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(& Waitomo GlowWorm Caves en route from Auckland)
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The Best way to see Rarotonga
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Book your next bike or e-bike adventure at www.riderarotonga.com
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Arrive as a visitor and leave as a friend. No crime,
Arrive no traffic as a and visitor no queues. and leave Relax as a or friend. explore. No Swim, crime,
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