GG_N56_FRA_COMPLET

LANGUEDOC
GUILHEM VIAU, BERGERIE DU CAPUCIN:
“I WANT TO OFFER VISITORS AN INTRODUCTORY,
ASPIRATIONAL EXPERIENCE”
Guilhem Viau has owned
this winery in AOP
Pic Saint-Loup since 2008
SUMMER 2024
L 19045 - 56 - F: 7,95 € - RD
PAGES 119-130
OUR SUMMER SELECTIONS:
CHAMPAGNE, LANGUEDOC, PROVENCE,
HUNGARY, ITALY, SLOVENIA, SOUTH AFRICA

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS
COLUMNS / REPORTS
10
44
54
8
News
10
Travel
Touring the vineyards
of Languedoc
24
Wine tour
On the Champagne
wine trail
34
Export
Spain confirms its
hunger for exports
44
Sparklings
Discovering the
elegance of South
African Cap Classique
54
Region
The incredible diversity
of Provence rosé
appellations
64
Terroir
Pinot Grigio, the Italian
crowd-pleaser
74
Ranking
2025 Crus Bourgeois
classification: how the
review is dividing the
Médoc
80
Discovery
Hungary – a new, old
world wine country
88
Discovery
Chile, or how ‘crazy
geography’ produces
diverse wines
98
Discovery
Slovenia: a land of
artisan wine
107
Focus
Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo,
a Portuguese success story
111
Focus
Montefalco shines the spotlight
on Umbria
116
Stars & wine
Chris Hemsworth: “For me, wine
is synonymous with time shared
with family and friends”
118
Contact details
119
2024 Summer selections
Champagne, Languedoc,
Provence, Hungary, Italy,
Slovenia, South Africa
Subscription form
Find out more about our
subscription offers on page 23
COVERS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES -
© MICK CREATIVE
Gilbert & Gaillard next issue:
Autumn 2024
80
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
3

EDITORIAL
FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
PINOT GRIGIO,
ITALY’S HUGE SUCCESS STORY
Pinot Grigio originally comes from Burgundy, where
it is known as Pinot Gris. The Italian word ‘grigio’ or
grey refers to the unusual blush-pink tinge of its grapes.
But the varietal’s true defining feature is its versatility
and its ability to mirror the subtle nuances of its vineyard
sites. Its site-expressiveness enables it to deliver a broad
array of flavours, including citrus fruit, white-fleshed
fruits, fresh almond, floral and mineral notes. It has long
spread across a large chunk of Europe’s wine regions,
travelling to Austria, Germany, Slovenia and Switzerland.
Its history took a major turn though when it arrived in
Italy, settling first in the Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region and
Veneto. Here, the climate and soils allow it to thrive and
produce wines displaying captivating freshness. Building
on its success in these two regions, it went on to appeal to
both winegrowers and consumers over most of Italy. It is
not uncommon to find it in Lombardy, Lazio, Sardinia
and even Sicily.
Even the wine industry crisis has not put a dent in its
success due to a number of factors. White wines have
been less impacted by the drop in consumption in recent
months. Also, the wines are very approachable, both in
terms of price and accessibility. And more importantly,
the Pinot Grigio duo has become a brand with countless
iterations and a magnet for consumers looking for a
distinctive taste, texture and identity. Our feature report
on page 64 and our selection of wines on page 126 aim to
convey all of these aspects to you. Happy reading!
4 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL
PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
CAP CLASSIQUE IS SETTING
SOUTH AFRICA ON FIRE!
To set the stage, a little history is needed. Frans Malan
at Simonsig in Stellenbosch produced the first
sparkling wine using the traditional method, mostly from
Chenin Blanc, in 1971. He then transitioned to the unique
blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in
order to emulate the traditional ‘formula’ of Champagne.
Innovation came when Graham Beck created a winery in
Robertson, where specific sites with clay-rich soils were
hived off to grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, marking
the birth of Methode Cap Classique, now shortened to
Cap Classique. The association created in 1992 with 14
members, now boasts over 50 and sales of 10.5 million
bottles last year.
To establish its success, Cap Classique has taken a big
leaf out of Champagne’s book, drawing on its sibling’s
varietal range and winemaking methods. The only
thing it is not allowed to do, obviously, is use the name
Champagne which is protected globally by Champagne
trade bodies, a fact that has been fully taken on board by
South African producers. Sparkling wines are enjoying
increased success within the country. The wines are made
from French grape varieties and follow the traditional
method with a secondary fermentation in the bottle.
Over 10,000 kilometres from the French city of Reims, in
Champagne, in a small upmarket town in Western South
Africa – Stellenbosch to be specific – the weekend’s about
to start. In the pavement cafés, one particular bottle
steals the show, and it’s not Champagne but Cap Classique.
Here is one example where you can be a prophet
in your own country!
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
5

EDITORIAL
SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF
PROVENCE ROSÉS
MAKE A CASE FOR DIVERSITY
Since 1990, consumption of rosé wine has been
constantly headed north. In fact, over a twentyfive
year period it has even trebled, so that one in every
three bottles of wine now sold is rosé*. Also, according
to people questioned, Provence rosés have an excellent
image with “a very enjoyable taste”, designed to “please
everyone”, they are “fashionable”, “terroir-driven”,
“refreshing, fruity and aromatic”.
Rosé aligns perfectly with changing consumer trends
and lifestyles where people eat less structured meals and
simple, approachable food, where they want to explore
new flavours and indulge in some conviviality and instant
gratification. It conveys a different image of wine, one
that is more accessible, and is directly linked to freedom.
But even more importantly, it is about diversity. Although
the climate across Provence is mainly hot and dry, its
extensive footprint and landforms, particularly inland,
lead to noticeable differences from one appellation to
another, or even from one valley to the next. From elevation
and wind to aspect, density and maritime influence,
numerous aspects factor into the equation and inevitably
shape the character of the end wine, starting with
the grape varieties. There is no comparing a rosé from
Flayosc – near Draguignan – which is made mainly from
Cinsault with a Bandol from the coast whose structure is
instilled by Mourvèdre. And that has to be rosé’s greatest
asset, allowing it to meet the needs of modernity whilst
fulfilling the essential criteria of identity stemming from
the terroir.
* CIVP data based on IRI Symphony.
6 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

|
© Romain Jolly - Domaine du Grand Moulin | © OT Sud Val de Loire
Sud Val de Loire
HEAVEN FOR ALL GOURMET
FOOD AND WINE LOVERS
Touraine wines|Vins de Loire|
AOC Touraine-Chenonceaux
sudvaldeloire.fr
FOUR
WINEMAKERS
FOR SUMMER
2024
DOMAINE
DU TARIQUET
Les premières grives
2023
CÔTES DE GASCOGNE
€ 10.75
GUILLAUME COURTET
CAVAVIN ARCACHON
36 COURS LAMARQUE DE PLAISANCE
33120 ARCACHON
+33 5 56 66 00 74
arcachon@cavavin.fr
CHÂTEAU DU COING
DE SAINT-FIACRE
Come de Saint-Hubert
2020
MUSCADET SÈVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE
€ 12.50
PHILIPPE BEZANNIER-ESNAULT
CAVAVIN ORLEANS
31B, RUE DU FAUBOURG MADELEINE
45000 ORLEANS
+33 2 38 70 78 14
orleans@cavavin.fr
CHÂTEAU
D’OLLIÈRES
Classique 2023
COTEAUX VAROIS EN PROVENCE
€ 11.40
ROMARIC LEGRAND
CAVAVIN DINARD
34 RUE LEVAVASSEUR
35800 DINARD
+33 2 99 46 92 04
dinard@cavavin.fr
DOMAINE
DES RAYNIÈRES
Vintage 2023
SAUMUR
€ 5,95
JEAN CLAUDE ROUSSEL
CAVAVIN CHANTILLY
3 PLACE OMER VALLON
60500 CHANTILLY
+33 3 44 58 18 62
chantilly@cavavin.fr
lacavedeconde@outlook.fr
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
7

NEWS
WEDNESDAYS AND FRIDAYS WITH THE WINEGROWERS
OF SAINT-ESTÈPHE
The third event of its kind kicked off on July 10 and will continue through to August 23.
Hosted by the Saint-Estèphe wine centre, it is free with no booking
required. These informal occasions offer visitors a special opportunity
to meet and engage with winegrowers and talk to them about
their expertise and the character and typicity of Saint-Estèphe wines.
The winegrowers take turns to come and present their wines every
Wednesday and Friday from 2pm to 6pm based on a pre-defined schedule.
Located on the historic village square, the Saint-Estèphe wine
centre is the ideal venue for wine enthusiasts looking for information
and a chance to connect with winegrowers.
+33 (0)5 56 59 30 59 - www.saint-estephe.fr
GLOBALLY ACCLAIMED RED WINES
7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France - Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88
Editorial Directors:
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Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard
Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe
Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout,
Olivier Delorme, Gonzalo Fernandez, Matthieu
Gaillard, Géraldine Spencer, James Turnbull
Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard
Contributors to this issue: Camille Bernard,
Jean-Paul Burias, Isabelle Escande, Mauricio Llaver,
Ágnes Németh, Sylvain Patard, Ožbej Peterle,
Francesco Saverio Russo, Samarie Smith-Meletiou
DipWSET, Frank Rousseau
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8 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

NEWS
HOW GASTRONOMY AND TOURAINE-CHENONCEAUX
GO HAND IN HAND
Two-star Michelin chef Christophe Hay puts local wines centre stage in his Fleur de Loire restaurant in Blois.
To coincide with the launch of our book titled ‘Touraine-Chenonceaux, the Loire gem in the Cher Valley’,
to which he contributed brilliantly, he agreed to share his life as a chef with us, with the Loir et Cher area always close to his heart.
In 2014, he moved back to the region after spending time in Florida and Paris. He
rekindled his relationship with Loir et Cher in Montlivault by opening La Maison
d’à Côté. It wasn’t long before the guide books placed their trust in him, recognising
the hard work put in by his staff. One year after his restaurant opened, in 2015, he was
awarded his first star by the Michelin Guide, then a second one in 2019.
In June 2022, he decided to build up an entire ecosystem, in harmony with the environment
and nature, along the banks of the Loire, in Blois. At the heart of the project
is the Christophe Hay gourmet restaurant with two red stars and one green star in the
Michelin Guide. Here, he serves the outstanding produce that shapes the character and
unique identity of the Loire Valley – its fish, fruit and vegetables and game for instance.
His ambition is to craft authentic memories for his patrons with his citrus greenhouse,
his herd of Wagyu cattle and the truffles foraged in his own field.
HUGO VASSEUR, THE HEAD SOMMELIER AT FLEUR DE
LOIRE AND CHEF CHRISTOPHE HAY
As genuine treasures grown in this beautiful department and Indre et Loire, the wineries
in the Touraine-Chenonceaux appellation form in his opinion an incredible bridge between the land, the terroir, Loire craftsmanship
and his dishes. And by way of a poignant conclusion, he says: “The story of the region’s gastronomy is written, developed and brought to
life, on a daily basis, by these talented winegrowers”. We need to thank him for his commitment.
https://fleurdeloire.com/fr/
MUSCADET HEADS TOWARDS A CHANGE IN PRODUCTION
SPECIFICATIONS
Among the extensive range of measures tabled, we noted in particular the request
to lower the maximum planting density from 6,500 to 5,000 vines per hectare for
AOC Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire, Sèvre et Maine and Côtes de Grandlieu, viewed as
a possible response to climate change; the proposal to introduce a measure to control
plant growth, either sown or self-seeding, between all rows of vines, using either
mechanical or physical methods; a ban on any substantial change to the morphology
of the sub-soil, the topsoil or aspects that guarantee the integrity and sustainability of
soils in a vineyard block selected to produce an appellation, with the exception of classic
soil breaking. From a more educational perspective, the producers’ organisation is also
suggesting that the ‘sur lie’ statement be complemented by an optional indication of
the maturation time, ‘matured for 12 months’ or ‘matured for 18 months’ for the three
sub-regional Muscadet appellations.
The regional committee of INAO has issued a favourable opinion on the project put
forward. The next step is to commission an enquiry board to validate these choices permanently. Watch this space…
https://www.vigneronduvaldeloire.fr/
THE VINEYARDS OF MONNIÈRES BASK IN BEAUTIFUL LIGHT
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
9

TOURING THE VINEYARDS
OF LANGUEDOC
BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS - PHOTOGRAPHS:
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES
© SYNDICAT DES VIGNERONS DU PIC SAINT LOUP
As France’s largest wine region, Languedoc is home to a unique collection
of wines spanning all three colours. Boasting myriad vineyard sites, grape
varieties and spectacular scenery, the region allows visitors to take a deep and
breath-taking dive into an endless world of flavours and beauty.
PARTY TIME AT BERGERIE DU CAPUCIN
10 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

LANGUEDOC
TRAVEL
ANAEL PAYROU, DIRECTOR OF CELLIER DES
DEMOISELLES
FRANCK PICARD, ONE OF THE WINEGROWERS
AT CELLIER DES DEMOISELLES
There is a wide range of pleasures, all of them taking on an amazing new dimension in Languedoc. France’s
largest wine region excels for its diversity, hosting 20 appellations and 13 regional or complementary
designations. Stretching from the foothills of the Massif Central and the Pyrenees to the Mediterranean Sea,
the plateaux and hillsides invariably bask in sunshine and multiple micro-climates shaped by the wind. They
roll out a substantial variety of soil types that help lend the wines their character. These are wines that over the
past forty years or so have experienced an incredible quality revolution. As an unspoilt region that has become
a favourite destination for holidaymakers, Languedoc offers plenty to discover and an unrivalled journey into
the land of great appellations, at very reasonable prices.
CELLIER DES DEMOISELLES: A RANGE OF VILLAGES AND VINEYARD SITES
In the heart of the Corbières, along the Cathar chateau route, this winery made a pledge to produce quality
wines as early as 1914. Its name pays tribute to the young women in the village who, during the First World
War, not only replaced the men who went off to fight but also made a lasting impression on local history. The
Cellier des Demoiselle’s 400 hectares under vine are located between 100 and 400 metres above sea level,
across several villages and sites. The co-operative brings together around fifteen large families who can either
develop their wines individually or collectively under the Cellier des Demoiselles banner. “We have an extensive
range of grape varieties, some of which are native to the region like our old Carignan vines with an average
age of 70”, explains the winery’s director Anaël Payrou. “But we also have more under-the-radar varieties like
Bourboulenc and Caladoc. We have introduced wine tourism activities, mostly focused on the summer season,
with a trail through the village, along the river and the vineyards, followed by a visit to our winery and a wine
tasting”. The cellar door shop is open all year round and direct-to-consumer sales account for 15% of revenue.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
11

LANGUEDOC
TRAVEL
CHÂTEAU DU GRAND CAUMONT:
FROM VINEYARDS TO GARRIGUE
PATRICK BLANCHARD, THE CELLAR MASTER AT CHÂTEAU DU GRAND CAUMONT
AND LAURENCE RIGAL
AN OVERVIEW OF CHÂTEAU DU GRAND CAUMONT
Nearby Carcassonne with its world-famous mediaeval
walled city and castle, along with the beaches lining the
Mediterranean, provide a superb opportunity for visitors
to enjoy an amazing get-away at this beautiful Corbières
estate. Vine growing, which is ubiquitous here, dates back
to the 2 nd century BC and has expanded since Roman
Times. Château du Grand Caumont, named after the
garrigue-dominant surroundings, boasts 105 hectares
under vine and produces stellar aromatic, inviting wines
with passion and the utmost concern for preserving the
environment. In 1906, Louis Rigal, the founder of Roquefort
Rigal cheese, bought the property and grew vines until
he passed the business on to his son – also called Louis –
in 1945. Subsequently, Louis’ wife Françoise took over in
1980, then her daughter Laurence Rigal joined her in 2003
after working in marketing and communications in Paris
for fifteen years. Drawing on her previous experience,
Laurence helped craft distinctive, elegant and perfumed
wines. “The vineyards grow on clay-limestone terraced
soils and gravel with excellent drainage. The climate is hot,
dry and windy which promotes very ripe fruit, harvested
through to mid-October”, she explains. “Fermentation of
whole clusters, our location along the Corbières valley floor
and gentle, restrained macerations produce rich, round,
fruity Mediterranean-style wines that are supple and
elegant. They are at the other end of the spectrum from
the extremely concentrated, harsh wines – they are a great
match for current consumer expectations and appeal to
enthusiasts, irrespective of the country they come from”.
Visitors can expect a warm, bespoke welcome and can
explore the 15th-century tower and ancient tools with
gorgeous views over the vineyards and the garrigue in
the backdrop.
CHÂTEAU PECH-LATT:
UNSPOILT SURROUNDINGS
Set in a natural amphitheatre surrounded by hillsides
and garrigue, this jewel in the Corbières crown means
‘the top of a wide hill’ in Occitan, alluding to the extensive
rolling hills where the winery is located. Situated
150 metres above sea level at the foot of Mount Alaric,
12 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

LANGUEDOC
TRAVEL
Château Pech-Latt’s vineyards are entirely harvested by
hand. They cover soils of limestone and red marl and
bask in outstanding weather conditions with a prevailing
Mediterranean climate. “The estate was the first one to
be certified organic in 1995”, stresses export sales representative
Mélody Royer. “As the vineyards extend over
160 hectares, this implies significant effort by all the staff.
This is a unique, unspoilt location revealed through outstanding
micro-terroirs”. Since the turn of the century, it
has been owned by the Subotic family who have made a
major pledge as custodians of this singular natural gem,
restoring the chateau’s historic heritage and its winery.
As a token of this new impetus, reward has come in the
form of numerous accolades.
WORK AT CHÂTEAU PECH-LATT
DOMAINE LA CROIX BELLE: CÔTES
DE THONGUE IN ALL THEIR GLORY
Nestled in the namesake river basin, Côtes de Thongue
epitomise a unique, elegant vision of Languedoc. The
landscape is very open and defined by ’puechs’. These
bucolic hills cover a range of soil types depending on
their setting, from sandy marl to stony terraces and more
subtle clay – Domaine La Croix Belle is home to these three
soils. Owned by the Boyer family since the 18 th century,
the property’s surroundings are dotted with a rich built
heritage including numerous 19 th -century ’châteaux
pinardiers’, built from the proceeds of the booming wine
industry in the Béziers plains. “Our soils and sub-soils are
varied and complementary, guaranteeing complex, elegant
wines”, says Françoise Boyer, the winery’s owner. “Diversity
is greatly enhanced by the vineyard sites and grape
varieties”. The property is committed to farming quality
wines using environmentally-friendly techniques. Certified
organic, it has greatly reduced the amount of spraying
and promotes the use of ozonated water to protect the
vineyards. “Our extensive varietal range favours typical
regional cultivars”, adds Jacques Boyer. “This allows us to
get creative and to benefit from a measure of freedom in
our blends, which is our speciality – we have a wide variety
of blends across all three colours”. Exports account for a
significant chunk of sales with 50% of output bound for
long-standing markets like Germany, the Netherlands,
Belgium, and more recently, the United States, Canada,
Japan and Australia.
FRANÇOISE BOYER, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE LA CROIX BELLE
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
13

HARVESTING AT
CHÂTEAU PECH-LATT
14 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

LANGUEDOC
TRAVEL
LAURENT BOUIGES, THE MANAGING DIRECTOR, AND PIERRE-LOUIS FARGES, THE CHAIRMAN OF SIEUR D’ARQUES
SIEUR D’ARQUES: ANCIENT TECHNIQUES
Since 1990, Sieur d’Arques has staged Toques et Clochers, a major festive event that has
since then become one of France’s most popular. Every year a village is selected to host
the festival which attracts 30,000 people to taste wines and celebrate the renovation of
its church. The programme includes a charity auction with some of the proceeds used
to renovate the 42 bell towers within the Limoux appellation area, helping to preserve
local heritage and architecture. Since 1946, the excellent Sieur d’Arques winery has established
a reputation as an unrivalled wine creator, combining expertise, techniques and
tradition across its 1,500 hectares of single-vineyard selections. “Our situation benefits
from unique weather patterns”, explains marketing manager Laurence Rouanet. “Atlantic
breezes meet the Mediterranean heat, creating a micro-climate that is ideal for growing
vines. The Limoux wine region is renowned for its long-standing expertise in sparkling
wines – Blanquette and Crémant de Limoux – as well as its Chardonnays that show
remarkable freshness and minerality. Mauzac, a rare native grape variety, and Pinot noir
also feature among the noteworthy grape varieties in our wine region”. Over 7% of the
co-operative winery’s revenue comes from direct-to-consumer sales, both at the cellar
door facilities and through distance selling, buoyed by visits and tastings. Its ancient
techniques and perfect control over the production process in compliance with the most
stringent standards and certifications have acted as a magnet for a demanding consumer
audience in 46 countries that remain loyal to the winery.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
15

VINEYARD MANAGEMENT AT MAS DU NOVI
A DRONE VIEW OF THE CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU DU DONJON
THIERRY THOMAS, THE DIRECTOR OF MAS DU NOVI
MAS DU NOVI: AUTHENTICALLY ARTISANAL
Right off the bat, Mas du Novi leaves a lasting impression for its beautiful vineyards and arid
garrigue land, buffeted by the Tramontane wind and sea mist. Facing the Mediterranean Sea,
at an elevation of 150 metres, this 50-hectare, organically-farmed winery is a benchmark in
this beautiful area. “Due to our location and the sea mist, we can craft signature Mediterranean
wines showing perfect balance with fruit and spice notes”, explains its director Thierry
Thomas, whose main mission is to grow vines. “This outstanding historic site was chosen by
the Romans then by Cistercian monks. Now, it is farmed authentically by artisans who craft
contemporary wines”. The range displays remarkable character and identity, yet at the same
time remains very palatable.
CHÂTEAU DU DONJON:
TRADEMARK MINERVOIS AND CABARDÈS
Originally owned by monks from Caunes-Minervois abbey, this property is named after
Château de Bagnoles and its picturesque 13 th -century keep which rises up from the middle of
the cellar. The vineyards showcase the Minervois and Cabardès appellations in an area where
the Mediterranean climate starts to transition and which is home to clay-limestone hills and
16 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

JEAN-FRANÇOIS OURADOU,
OWNER OF CHÂTEAU DE DURFORT
AND THE PROPERTY’S EWES
JEAN PANIS WITH HIS DAUGHTER
CAMILLE AND WIFE CAROLINE
THE BOYER FAMILY
IN THEIR VINEYARD
SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
17

LANGUEDOC
TRAVEL
GRAHAM NUTTER, THE OWNER OF CHÂTEAU SAINT JACQUES D’ALBAS
gravelly terraces. Since the 15 th century, the Panis-
Mialhe family has combined a respect for traditional
values with modernity. In 1996, Jean Panis, the current
owner, produced his first vintage. “Our range runs the
gamut from fruity, easy-drinking wines to structured,
delicate and elegant offerings”, he explains. “We use
short pruning and are strict about soil management,
using natural fertilisation. We only harvest the grapes
when they are perfectly ripe. And because the best
advertisement is an open bottle, we host tastings in
the keep, located in the middle of the winery”. The
chateau sells 50% of its wines overseas, mainly in
Europe with consignments now shipped to the United
States and China.
CHÂTEAU SAINT JACQUES
D’ALBAS: WHERE VARIETY
REIGNS SUPREME
THE WINDMILL AT CHÂTEAU SAINT JACQUES D’ALBAS
Château Saint Jacques d’Albas is perfectly situated
in the Minervois area between the Black Mountains
and the Canal du Midi. It boasts numerous assets for
crafting high-end wines. Its 60 hectares of woodland
act as a shelter for its 26-hectare vineyard. The chateau
still has all the charm of an historic building with a
lovely 11 th -century chapel. Since 2001, the team led
by Graham Nutter, the winery’s owner, has made the
wines on site in order to improve control over them.
It also favours quality by reining in yields and takes a
long-term vision of soil management. “This is a smallscale
organic property with a lot of natural spaces
and flora that can add aromatics to a broad range of
wines with very reasonable prices”, stresses Graham
Nutter. “We welcome tourists from around the world
with three gîtes, a swimming pool and tennis court.
The setting is ideal for some peaceful relaxation or
to go exploring the many tourist sites whilst at the
same time sharing our passion for wine”. The chateau
produces red, rosé and white organic Minervois
appellation wines and PGI Pays d’Oc from an extensive
varietal range: Syrah, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre,
Carignan, Cinsault, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier,
Grenache Gris and Blanc, Vermentino or Rolle and
Petit Manseng, in blocks where vine age, soils and
aspects differ, lending the wines huge aromatic variety.
18 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

LANGUEDOC
TRAVEL
CHÂTEAU LA VILLATADE:
MODERN WINES IN ANCIENT
VINEYARD SITES
PANORAMIC VIEWS OF CHÂTEAU LA VILLATADE
Set in the foothills of the Black Mountains north
of Carcassonne, Château La Villatade is home to a
beautiful Occitan manor house built in the middle
of the 17 th century. With a large square courtyard as
its focal point, it is surrounded by 16 hectares of vines
and 130 hectares of unspoilt countryside unfurling
over rolling hills clad with olive and pine groves and
garrigue. After spending thirty years working in new
technologies, Richard Andreelli and his wife Sophie
decided to sell their business and take over the estate
in 2016, applying biodynamic principles and sustainable
winegrowing that is clean and mindful of the
environment. They have invested significantly in
renovating the existing buildings for agri-tourism and
wine tourism activities, and have also fully renovated
the winery. “The vineyards are farmed in compliance
with High Environmental Value standards (HVE)”,
points out Richard Andreelli. “We make quality wines
from low-cropping vines producing 25 hectolitres per
hectare in order to instil the fruit with rich aromatics
and greater concentration. Blended from Syrah and
Grenache, our reds are silky and fruity and driven by
aromas of blackcurrant and blackberry with a menthol
edge coupled with spices showing varying degrees of
pepper”. The rosés are fruity, energetic and juicy with
a light, bright pink hue and great exuberance on the
palate driven by delicate aromatics. The white Minervois
is dry but not overly so with appetising, harmonious
flavours. It delivers great mineral freshness
revolving around fruit notes.
BENJAMIN BAUDRY, DIRECTOR OF DOMAINE DE BELLE MARE
DOMAINE DE BELLE MARE: WINES
WITH A SOUTHERN ACCENT
Domaine de Belle Mare is a must-visit for all those
aiming to discover the appealing aromatic world
of Pays d’Oc and the Picpoul de Pinet appellation.
The visit has a decidedly Mediterranean, maritime
tone along the shores of Thau lagoon, the largest
and deepest in the region. For over two decades, the
Lapoulvailarie family has bridged the gap between
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
19

RICHARD AND SOPHIE
ANDREELLI
BORDEAUX
TRAVEL
SÉBASTIEN CANUT,
THE GENERAL SECRETARY
AT SIEUR D’ARQUES
HARVEST TIME AT DOMAINE
LES GRANDES COSTES
20 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

GUILHEM VIAU IN THE CELLAR AT BERGERIE DU CAPUCIN
GUILHEM VIAU, THE OWNER AND FOUNDER OF BERGERIE DU CAPUCIN
Man and Land in these unspoilt surroundings. Boasting seven red grape varieties
– Syrah, Grenache, Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Cinsault, Pinot Noir and Alicante
Bouschet – and seven whites – Picpoul, Vermentino, Viognier, Sauvignon, Chardonnay,
Roussanne and Muscat à Petits Grains – this iconic location produces generous, enjoyable
wines. “The vineyard is one of the closest to Thau lagoon with its specific maritime
site and breath-taking views over Mont Saint-Clair and the oyster beds”, says winery
manager Benjamin Baudry. “Our wines are lively and fresh with great accessibility, which
sets them apart from sites farther inland. The fine, mineral Picpoul de Pinet appellation
is extremely popular and the only single varietal Picpoul”. It opens doors to every market,
ushering in the range of PGI Pays d’Oc which account for 90% of production.
BERGERIE DU CAPUCIN: FINESSE AND ELEGANCE
Set at the foot of Hortus plateau, Bergerie du Capacin offers stunning views. Surrounded
by garrigue, the typical Pic Saint Loup soils and climate shape the outstanding character
of Languedoc’s most northerly appellation. “We produce clean, precise wines”, stresses
Guilhem Viau, who has owned the winery since 2008. “The Syrah shows full-on expression
with finesse, elegance, volume and length along with fine, elegant tannins”.
Emphasis is placed on hospitality with a tour of the new winery and maturation cellar
and tastings. “I want to offer visitors an introductory, aspirational experience showcasing
the vineyards and my work”, adds Guilhem Viau. “I am also going to develop rental solutions
for the winery and the rooftop terrace for people looking for a private events space”.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
21

JEAN-CHRISTOPHE GRANIER, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE
LES GRANDES COSTES
THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE LES GRANDES COSTES
DOMAINE LES GRANDES COSTES: MEDITERRANEAN TRADITIONS
Set in the foothills of the Cevennes mountains and steeped in Mediterranean traditions, Domaine
Les Grandes Costes combines exciting wines and a personable spirit with the traditional grape
varieties Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan and Syrah, all of which are low-cropped. “Our identity has
been established through characterful wines, mostly red, with supple tannins, black fruit flavours
and persistent freshness”, comments Jean-Christophe Granier, who took over the estate from his
grandfather in 1998. “Our yields are low, with an average of 35 hl/ha, preserving the character and
identity of our vineyard sites and offering substantial ageability”. The winery is set in the heart of
a tourist hot spot and receives regular visits from enthusiasts keen to explore wine and give their
senses a wake-up call with the colours, textures and balance that define the Pic Saint-Loup and
Languedoc appellations and PGI Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert.
A WINE REGION STILL IN ITS YOUTH
Languedoc is home to incredible variety and still offers wines at relatively moderate prices
compared with other prestigious appellations. Its Mediterranean climate and beautiful scenery
make it a destination in a league of its own. Its winegrowers who were disparaged in the 1950s
for their mass-produced wines have successfully grasped the nettle and turned the tide. For over
forty years, the entire region rallied behind this very ambitious project with the first appellations
emerging in 1982 then Vins de Pays d’Oc in 1987. The relevance of this expertise set Languedoc on
the right track and enabled it to encapsulate the region’s inherent qualities. The metrics speak
volumes about the success of this endeavour – five bottles of Languedoc appellation wine are
sold every second worldwide, three of them in France. The range of wines combines complexity,
balance and freshness against a magnificent natural backdrop. It is a fusion of unique typicities
and has that extremely rare quality of allowing each winegrower to aim for a reputation on a par
with that of the highest quality wines through hard work. This incredible vitality and drive become
even more tangible when you travel along its wine routes, with heady garrigue aromas of fig and
blackberry pinpointing the powerfulness and variety of its vineyard sites. That, in essence, is what
we have tried to convey in this feature report.
22 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

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ON THE CHAMPAGNE WINE
TRAIL
BY CAMILLE BERNARD – PHOTOGRAPHS:
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES
From the ‘most drinkable address in the world’ – as Winston Churchill described
Avenue de Champagne in Épernay – to the lush green hills of the Côte des Bar,
follow our trail through the vineyards of Champagne.
MAISON CANARD-DUCHÊNE’S WORKSHOPS RANGE FROM PAIRING CHAMPAGNE AND CHEESE TO AN INTRODUCTION TO OPENING CHAMPAGNE WITH A SABRE
24 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

CHAMPAGNE
WINE TOUR
THE VINEYARDS BELONGING TO PATRICK BOIVIN UNFURL OVER THE HILLSIDES OF ÉPERNAY
It’s an open secret that Champagne is a very popular destination. Wine tourism, bolstered
by the Unesco world heritage listing of Champagne’s Hillsides, Houses and Cellars,
has become a major activity, morphing from a cottage industry in the 19 th century to a
more structured business since the mid-20 th century. Now, as wine tourism diversifies,
Champagne has risen to the challenge of hosting up to five million visitors a year. From
the family-run houses to the more prominent companies, we meet some passionate winegrowers
whose primary mission is to act as ambassadors for their unique wine region.
THE JAGGED HILLSIDES OF THE MARNE VALLEY
Any self-respecting visitor along the (wine) tourism route in the Marne Valley has to start in
Epernay, the historic capital of Champagne with its famous ‘Avenue de Champagne’ which
is home to the internationally renowned houses, but also other wineries.
CHAMPAGNE PATRICK BOIVIN:
SHARING THE SECRET OF WINE
With vineyards across the hillsides of Epernay, Patrick Boivin is one of those winegrowers
whose passion is contagious. As he beats the bounds of his 6-hectare vineyard – as he has
done for the past 40 years – he admits: “Champagne is a single, indivisible region and its
good fortune stems from its vineyard sites and people. To share this, we have to get people
to understand the magic of our profession”.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
25

THE THREE GENERATIONS OF THE BOIVIN FAMILY IN THEIR
VINEYARDS IN ÉPERNAY
THE LES 3 DOMAINES STORE IS IDEALLY LOCATED AT THE
ENTRANCE TO THE FAMOUS AVENUE DE CHAMPAGNE IN ÉPERNAY
The magic has now been passed on to his two daughters, Céline and Baptistine, to whom he and his wife
Marie-Madeleine are gradually passing the winery over.
Sharing the Champagne that defines him is a mission that means a lot to Patrick Boivin. Consequently,
with the firm intention of “positioning grower Champagne in the big league”, he enterprisingly launched a
collaborative project with two other Epernay winegrowers. Their store, named Les 3 Domaines, introduces
visitors to Champagnes by Patrick Boivin, Vincent Testulat and Janisson-Baradon.
Strategically located at number 1 on the famous Avenue de Champagne in Épernay, the store allows visitors
to begin their visit with a tasting of grower Champagnes before continuing to the big household names
located along the avenue. “This is where we share the secret of Champagne”, explains Patrick Boivin.
CHAMPAGNE ANTHONY BETOUZET:
THE AUTHENTICITY OF UNSPOILT VINEYARD SITES
West of Epernay, where vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see over the jagged hillsides of the Marne
Valley, Champagne Anthony Betouzet encapsulates traditional winegrowing expertise with a dash of entrepreneurship
under the enthusiastic guidance of Anthony and Emilie Betouzet.
“The 7.5-hectare vineyard, mainly located in Dormans and the surrounding villages, has been certified
organic since 2023”, explains Emilie.
Planted to a majority share of Meunier (66%), which enjoys ideal conditions to thrive in the Marne Valley,
“the vineyards are also home to Pinot noir and Chardonnay, allowing us to produce blends that echo our
terroir”, she adds.
26 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

CHAMPAGNE
WINE TOUR
In 2020, after a modern winery was built, the
property notched up another milestone by welcoming
visitors to the estate. “Having everything in
the same place meant we could introduce visits
and tastings”.
The winery also offers an introductory visit which
includes a tour of the vineyards, the press, the vat
house and the cellar, and finishes with a tasting
of three Champagnes. In addition to this, the
gourmet visit includes an aroma game and a food
and Champagne tasting. “In this way, we can introduce
people to our profession and to Champagne
in general. I see it as a way of sharing what we do”,
feels Emilie.
ANTHONY BETOUZET AND HIS WIFE EMILIE HAVE POURED PASSION AND
ENTREPRENEURSHIP INTO THE FAMILY’S VINEYARDS SINCE THEY TOOK OVER
THE CÔTE DES BLANCS, AN IDYLLIC
SETTING FOR CHARDONNAY
EACH VISIT ENDS WITH A TASTING OF ANTHONY BETOUZET CHAMPAGNES
South of Épernay, the vineyards of the Côte des
Blancs fan out over hillsides with ubiquitous chalky
outcrops. But make no mistake, this unique geology
is not why the Côte des Blancs got its name. The
moniker in fact comes from the grape variety that
reigns supreme here – Chardonnay – and achieves
unrivalled expression on these limestone soils.
CHAMPAGNE PIERRE MONCUIT:
KEEPING IT IN THE FAMILY IN THE
CÔTE DES BLANCS
In the heart of the iconic village of Le Mesnil-sur-
Oger, Champagne Pierre Moncuit is inseparable
from Chardonnay, which is the predominant cultivar
in the 20-hectare vineyard belonging to this venerable
family-run company. Founded over 130 years
ago by Pierre Moncuit himself, the company is now
in the hands of Valérie Charpentier, his granddaughter,
who is carrying on the family tradition
with renewed elegance. She recounts: “In the 1980s,
my mother Nicole and my uncle Yves took over from
my grandfather. My mother handled the production
side and crafted the company’s wines, whilst my
uncle was in charge of sales. Under their guidance,
the property experienced a new lease of life”.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
27

CHAMPAGNE
WINE TOUR
VALÉRIE CHARPENTIER AND HER MOTHER NICOLE MONCUIT, WHO
PASSED ON THE DELICATE ART OF CHAMPAGNE TO HER
It’s now Valérie’s turn to look after the family farm
whose vineyards produce age-worthy Champagnes
with complex aromatics as their signature style.
Experiencing a tour of the cellars at Champagne
Pierre Moncuit therefore offers the promise of exploring
the unsuspected subtleties of Chardonnay.
When visitors cross the threshold of the family-run
company, they step into a world where time and
terroir mesh. “We are mindful to explain our work
to our visitors. It was my grand-mother who first
made a pledge towards transparency and passion
and we perpetuate it to this day”, points out Valérie.
In fact, because Champagne Pierre Moncuit is still
a family affair, hospitality is handled by Nicole who
has passed over the reins to her daughter, but is never
far away.
THE MONTAGNE DE REIMS
On the Montagne de Reims, where Pinot noir undeniably
expresses its full potential, nature and winegrowing
expertise meld to craft outstanding Champagnes.
The region, defined by its steep hillsides
and dense woodland – its green lung – embodies
quintessential Champagne terroir features. This is
where vineyards produce Champagnes that beguile
and inspire imbibers the world over.
IN VALÉRIE’S GRANDMOTHER’S ERA, THE FAMILY-RUN COMPANY WAS ALREADY
WELCOMING GUESTS
CHAMPAGNE GUY CHARBAUT:
A SENSE OF HOSPITALITY
AND SHARING
In Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Maison Guy Charbaut stems from
a family tradition that started in 1936 with André
Charbaut. “Under the guidance of his son Guy, with
the valuable support of his wife Simonne and their
children Brigitte and Xavier, the family-run winery
expanded and was named in 1995”, explains Nathalie
Charbaut, Xavier’s wife. The couple are now at the
company’s helm.
The 14-hectare vineyard, where the three Champagne
grape varieties that are Pinot noir, Pinot meunier and
Chardonnay thrive side by side, produces nine different
labels, all of which epitomise the winery’s ethos
28 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

MAISON GUY CHARBAUT STEMS FROM
THE PASSION OF ONE FAMILY DOWN
THROUGH THE GENERATIONS
of extended maturation designed to ensure the complexity and optimum maturity of
each Champagne before it is released for sale.
But Champagne Guy Charbaut does not just craft stellar Champagne – it inspires a
sense of hospitality and sharing among all those who visit the property.
That’s because here, hospitality is a tradition that dates back to the first guest
rooms opened in 1997. “The initiative came from my father-in-law who loved to
welcome people to the property and share some unique moments with his guests”,
recalls Nathalie. “Guy was a bone fide Champagne ambassador and loved to serve it
throughout the entire meal”. Now, this tradition of table d’hôte and Champagne and
food pairings continues in the property’s former cellar.
The owners also invite visitors to explore the winery’s historic cellars, hewn out of the
chalk 25 metres below ground at the turn of the 19 th century. They house a rotunda that
is the only one of its kind in Champagne. The visit ends with a tasting in a recently
restored room.
CHAMPAGNE CANARD-DUCHÊNE:
UNEXPECTED NATURAL SURROUNDINGS
The number of Champagne houses that boast such an idyllic natural setting as the
one at Canard-Duchêne are few and far between. Located on the northern side of
the Montagne de Reims, in the charming village of Ludes, the company is home to
gorgeous leafy grounds surrounded by vines and a forest boasting rare species.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
29

CHAMPAGNE
WINE TOUR
CELLAR MASTER LAURENT FÉDOU ALSO CURATES MASTERCLASSES
“Maison Canard-Duchêne nurtures its inspirational
relationship with nature which it encapsulates in
each of its Champagnes. The many examples of environmentally-friendly
initiatives are a testament to
its involvement in preserving its site”, explains the
company’s hospitality manager, Florence Giron.
“And yet, up until the end of the 2010s, we only
conducted tours of the winery”, she recalls. On the
edge of the grounds, the majestic red-brick building
does indeed hide a treasure: four levels of historic
cellars hewn out of the chalk by the company’s founders,
Victor Canard and Léonie Duchêne, in the
19 th century.
Florence readily admits that “The pandemic
marked a turning point in terms of showcasing
the company’s unique heritage. We realised
the importance of taking advantage of our
natural surroundings”.
The property has thus considerably diversified
its choice of wine tourism offerings, now hosting
Champagne and cheese workshops, introductions
to opening Champagne with a sabre and even yoga
courses in the vineyards!
In addition to these activities, the company hosts
special events all year round, including tastings of
vintage Champagnes and brunches in the grounds.
CHAMPAGNE JEAN VESSELLE:
NOT JUST A VISIT, A NARRATIVE
BROUGHT TO LIFE
THE GROUNDS AT MAISON CANARD-DUCHÊNE INVITE
VISITORS TO STAY
In Bouzy, Champagne Jean Vesselle illustrates the
determination with which Delphine Vesselle skilfully
took over the reins of the family-run company
in 1993. Since then, with the help of her husband
David, she has doubled the size of the property to
17 hectares divided between Bouzy, Chouilly and
Loches. The company is now preparing for another
significant milestone – its transition to organic certification
for the 2024 harvest of Chouilly and Bouzy
Crus and 2025 for Loches. “We aim to seek out the
unique typicity of our vineyard sites and the aroma
and flavour qualities of our fruit”, explains Delphine.
This constant quest for excellence is reflected in the
estate’s extensive range of Champagnes which are
30 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

CHAMPAGNE
WINE TOUR
DELPHINE VESSELLE WELCOMES VISITORS
AND SHARES THE HISTORY OF
HER CHAMPAGNES WITH THEM
DELPHINE VESSELLE AND HER HUSBAND
DAVID IN THEIR BOUZY VINEYARDS
designed to be drunk with the entire meal, from the appetisers through to dessert.
“Travelling and tasting our Champagnes abroad made us realise that they have the
ability to mesh with a variety of gourmet food cultures. I am proud that our Champagne
has carved out a place for itself at the table”, she adds.
Each Champagne stamped Jean Vesselle thus tells a story, often inspired by an
encounter or an experience. Delphine is genuinely passionate about this and by
welcoming visitors to the property, she can pass on this narrative. “We have always
made a point of welcoming guests and I can even remember my parents receiving
visits in our home on Saturdays and Sundays”.
“Now we offer a complete visit that starts with explanations about work in the
vineyard through information panels, continues with a visit of the press, the winery,
the cellars and the labelling area and ends with a tasting of our wines”.
THE SUBTLE CHARM OF THE CÔTE DES BAR
Although the Côte des Bar suffers unfairly from the distance that separates it from
its illustrious neighbours, it is nonetheless home to a profusion of leafy valleys where
nature takes on a whole new appearance. It offers an incredible opportunity for Pinot
noir, in particular, to demonstrate its broad-ranging persona and yield light wines that
are highly valued by the major houses.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
31

CHAMPAGNE DEVAUX HOSTS
CHAMPAGNE AND CHOCOLATE
WORKSHOPS
32 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

CHAMPAGNE
WINE TOUR
THE CHAMPAGNE DEVAUX BRAND IS SET IN THE HEART OF THE LUSH CÔTE DES BAR AREA
CHAMPAGNE DEVAUX:
A PROUD AMBASSADOR OF THE CÔTE DES BARS
Established in Épernay in 1846, the Champagne Devaux brand has been based in Bar-sur-
Seine since the late 1980s in majestic facilities commensurate with its ambitions.
The 18 th -century manor house, which has been open to the public since 2011, illustrates this
grandeur. “A former paper factory, the location is ideally situated at the confluence of the rivers
Seine and Ource, thus offering our estate a remarkable setting”, explains Cathy Mathieu, head
of wine tourism at Champagne Devaux.
Confronted with the challenge of securing visibility outside the Côte des Bars, which does
not draw in as many tourists as Reims or Epernay, Elodie Chevriot, Marketing and Communications
Development Director at the Société Distribution Union Auboise (SDUA), stresses
the importance of offering visitors a customised hospitality experience. “Our aim has always
been to develop awareness of the brand and attract tourists here where we offer bespoke
experiences that are different to the standardised visits”.
In addition to the various tasting workshops hosted by the company, Champagne Devaux also
organises a range of activities skilfully revolving around the four elements. Water is explored
during a canoe trip; air through sightseeing flights offering spectacular views over the vineyards
of Champagne; earth through an electric scooter tour; and fire through relaxed evening
events around a fire pit in the grounds.
Not far away, in the McArthurGlen outlet centre in Troyes, “the Devaux Champagne Bar is a
place for relaxing and tasting where Julien introduces patrons to our house”, concludes Emilie.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
33

SPAIN CONFIRMS ITS HUNGER
FOR EXPORTS
BY ISABELLE ESCANDE – PHOTOGRAPHS:
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES
A silent revolution has been in the making over the past few years in the Spanish
wine industry. An expert in bulk wine sales – it is the world’s leading exporter
country by volume – Spain is now aiming to improve its image and promote its
quality wines internationally in a bid to move upmarket. We met four Spanish
bodegas who explained how they have risen to the challenge.
CUATRO RAYAS BOASTS SOME HUNDRED-YEAR-OLD, BUSH-TRAINED VINES THAT ARE MOSTLY PRE-PHYLLOXERA
34 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

SPAIN
EXPORT
LOCATED IN GALICIA, IN NORTH-EASTERN SPAIN, BODEGAS GALLEGAS GROWS VINES IN THREE APPELLATIONS IN THE REGION (RÍAS
BAIXAS, RIBEIRA SACRA AND RIBEIRO)
T
he figures speak for themselves. With 931,562 hectares under vine, Spain has
the most extensive vineyard area in the world. 15% of vineyards are now farmed
organically, placing the country at the top of the global rankings. The industry is
changing and seems to be intent on showing it. Although Spain has a clutch of
internationally acclaimed appellations like Rioja and Priorat, it is still struggling to
establish a reputation for itself as a quality benchmark. Its neighbours have much
better-rehearsed narratives.
But times are changing. Since the 2000s, the number of Spanish bodegas that
export has increased three-fold. Although the industry remains very concentrated
with large companies cornering a significant chunk of export revenue, the number
of wineries drawn to the international market, with a particular focus on quality
exports, continues to rise, as does their efficacy. It has to be said that tapping into
uber-competitive international markets is no easy task if you have no real defining
features. Fortunately, in this regard Spain does have its own attributes, including
many appellations, native grape varieties and myriad outstanding vineyard sites.
One advantage its wines undeniably boast is their excellent value for money, and
that is a powerful selling point.
In recent years, another aspect has been factored into the equation – marketing. As
Esther Muñoz Iniesta from Bodega Barahonda stresses, its role has become pivotal
in “finding one’s place in a constantly changing marketplace”, prompting exporting
wineries to review their sales strategy. Some now excel at it, thereby demonstrating
the formidable ability of the Spanish wine industry to adapt.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
35

LÉGENDES
THE FOUNDER’S GREAT-
GRANDCHILDREN, ANTONIO AND
ALFREDO, HAVE RUN BODEGA
BARAHONDA SINCE 1999
BARAHONDA, THE CHARM
OF A SMALL APPELLATION
Yecla, where Bodega Barahonda is located, is an appellation with just 6,500
hectares of vineyards in the Murcia region which has begun to attract attention
over the past few years. Its footprint may be small, but it certainly does
not lack character. In fact, it boasts a number of specific attributes that make
its wines unique. First of all is the climate, which experiences major temperature
variations, from sweltering summers to winters when the mercury
can plummet to -6°C. Then there is its native grape variety, Monastrell, which
covers a dominant 85% of vineyard acreage and thrives around the Mediterranean
rim. Another specific feature of the region is that it was mostly spared
from phylloxera in the 19th century – it is therefore not uncommon to find
own-rooted vines.
Yecla has a distinctive identity that is certainly worthwhile in an era where
intense competition in foreign markets makes it essential to stand out from
the crowd. Despite “an extensive choice of products”, particularly in Europe,
Barahonda has unique selling points, explains the company’s marketing
manager Esther Muñoz Iniesta. And these are all the more persuasive considering
Barahonda’s target audience of consumers that show increased interest
in under-the-radar, exclusive appellations.
With 90% of the winery’s products shipped abroad, this is an absolute blessing.
Although the share of exports has not changed over the past few years
due to its already high level, export volumes have risen. Traditional markets
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SPAIN
EXPORT
like the United States have been joined by new import markets like Asia. The winery’s
efforts to attend the main industry exhibitions and fairs across the globe, and trade
missions organised both abroad and at the winery, have reaped rewards. It’s now a
well-oiled process.
Barahonda wines have garnered appeal in international markets because they
offer “excellent value for money”, points out Iniesta. Despite this, the red, white
and rosé wines are crafted with utmost care. In recent years, the team has focused
its attention on the sustainability of the business, introducing bio-control methods
in the vineyards – with pheromones for example – to avoid using pesticides and
other chemicals. The winery combines innovation and modernity with tradition to
continue along its successful path.
AGUSTÍN CARRIÓN, THE WINEMAKER AT BARAHONDA
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37

SPAIN
EXPORT
BODEGA CUATRO RAYAS,
VALUES AND INNOVATION
THE TWO WINEMAKERS AT BODEGA CUATRO RAYAS, ELENA M. OYAGÜE
AND ROBERTO L. TELLO
BODEGA CUATRO RAYAS WAS FOUNDED IN 1935
With its annual production of 15 million bottles
distributed to over 40 countries, Bodega Cuatro
Rayas is a co-operative to be reckoned with in
DO Rueda, the cradle of Verdejo. In fact, 95% of
the winery’s wines are made from this famous
native variety which produces very fresh white
wines showing vibrant acidity. This style of wine
is an absolute winner with international consumers.
Sara Manzanas, from the communications
department, explains that within the company’s
extensive product portfolio – spanning white, red,
rosé, sweet and sparkling wine and vermouth – the
young, fresh, very fruity and un-oaked bottlings
are the most successful. White wines are enjoyed
across the generations, “even though they are most
popular with young people, and their consumption
has risen virtually worldwide”. This is borne out
by the co-operative’s export sales – accounting for
around 15% of the total – which have doubled over
the past ten years.
With its skilful choice of production methods,
quality wines, modern designs and determination
to innovate, the winery has successfully adapted to
a range of international consumer expectations.
And this “is no easy task”, admits Manzanas. “It
requires in-depth knowledge of markets, companies
and intermediaries which only comes with
experience. There is no silver bullet for entering
a specific market or relationship that guarantees
successful transactions”. The co-operative does,
however, have a few cards up its sleeve that make a
difference – its strongly rooted values have garnered
it several accolades.
One of Bodega Cuatro Rayas’ defining features is
its strong commitment to sustainability, both environmental
and social. “We describe this specific
philosophy with two words – green & social. We
take a proactive approach to improving the quality
of life of our employees and people that live near
our company”. The winery was recently singled out
for distinction for its efforts to promote equality in
the workplace for men and women. “We encourage
generational turnover in the wine industry and
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THE MONASTRELL VINES AT
BARAHONDA ARE TRAINED
AS BUSH VINES AND HARVESTED
BY HAND
BODEGA CUATRO RAYAS’
LONG-STANDING MARKETS
ARE THE UNITED KINGDOM,
HOLLAND, BELGIUM
AND GERMANY
THE STAR GRAPE VARIETY IN
DO RÍAS BAIXAS, WHICH ENJOYS
THE INFLUENCE OF THE ATLANTIC,
ALBARIÑO DISPLAYS HALLMARK
ACIDITY, COMPLEXITY
AND AGEABILITY
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SPAIN
EXPORT
place sustainable farming centre stage. A sizeable
share of our vineyards are certified organic”. The
winery’s commitments certainly command respect.
BODEGAS GALLEGAS,
THE TASTE OF TRADITION
AND VALUE FOR MONEY
OLGA VERDE, THE WINEMAKER AT BODEGAS GALLEGAS
BODEGAS GALLEGAS FOCUSES ON SHOWCASING THE REGION’S NATIVE
GRAPE VARIETIES, PRIMARILY ALBARIÑO AND GODELLO, WHICH ARE
HIGHLY PRIZED
“Associating a brand with values that make the wine
more recognisable for consumers can be a decisive
purchasing cue”, stresses Eva Rodríguez, export
sales executive at Bodegas Gallegas. “Also, the ability
to tell a story and the ‘way things are done’ for every
bottle of wine is a significant differentiator”. In
terms of experience, the winery certainly has a rich
narrative. From a modest family trading company
founded by Manuel Vázquez, aka ‘Manolo Arnoya’,
over sixty years ago in Arnoia, a small village in the
heart of Ribeiro, the winery has become a renowned
company with a presence in over 50 countries and a
booming business in just a few decades.
In 2023, exports accounted for 48% of volume sales
and the trend over the past ten years has been positive.
The original range of import countries, like the
United Kingdom, United States, Cameroon, Russia,
Poland, Belgium, Korea, Japan, China, Australia,
Sweden, Brazil and even the Dominican Republic,
has now been joined by new destinations including
Turkey, Ukraine, Mauritius, Italy, Azerbaijan
and Georgia.
The time when Manuel Vázquez travelled personally
by horse and cart to sell his products is now long
gone. Nowadays, to consolidate its export sales,
the winery takes part in trade missions to potential
markets every year, organises visits to its clients’
and participates in exhibitions and international
competitions. It is not shy in recruiting the help of
public organisations to facilitate initial contacts in
new markets, either. “We benefit from the help of
the chambers of commerce and appellation councils
which work as intermediaries”, explains Rodríguez.
“We feel that our wines’ value for money is our
main competitive advantage. For appellation
wines, we have focused our efforts on crafting very
high quality wines with outstanding aroma and
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SPAIN
EXPORT
flavour profiles, whilst also placing emphasis on
sustainable vineyard management and stringent
fruit selection. Combined, this produces premium
wines at highly competitive prices. For the entrylevel
table wines, we offer both very reasonable
prices and top quality, which facilitates exports
and wholesale distribution. Even when you add
transport costs or special taxes at destination, as
with Asian or American markets, the end price for
consumers remains extremely attractive considering
the high quality we offer them”.
The winery can also draw on its history and traditions
as magnets for consumers. Its Ribeira Sacra
wines, for example, are grown in one of the four
European regions certified by the endorsement
‘heroic winegrowing’, which refers to vine growing
in extremely challenging conditions. The company’s
vines are located 500 metres above sea level on steep
slopes with a gradient of around 40%. In addition
to this, the system of terraced vineyards, locally
known as ‘socalcos’ – surrounded by dry-stone
walls made of schist – makes harvesting even more
difficult. And that’s just one of the many distinctive
features that make this winery unique.
NICHOLAS HAMMEKEN AND MARCELO MORALES IN CHARGE OF THE WINEMAKING TEAM
THE NEW FINCA LAS PIÑAS WINERY WHICH ASPIRES TO BECOMING
SELF-SUFFICIENT IN THE NEAR FUTURE
HAMMEKEN CELLARS, THE KINGS
OF EXPORT
With overseas sales last year of 16,000,000 litres
and 90% of its wines shipped abroad, there is no
denying this company’s export expertise. In fact, in
2022, it was even voted the “best export company”.
Its aim, which is to “raise the prestige of Spanish
wines worldwide by exceeding the expectations
of our customers and surprising consumers with
our quality, our designs and our commitment”,
seems to have hit the right spot. And actually, one
of its defining features is its ability to adapt to
market demand.
Its extensive brand portfolio has developed based
on industry requirements and trends. As an
example, the company recently launched My Zero,
its first alcohol-free wine made from top quality
fruit fermented in stainless steel tanks. The juice
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41

NICHOLAS HAMMEKEN,
DIRECTOR OF
HAMMEKEN CELLARS
BORDEAUX
TRAVEL
42 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

MARCELO MORALES, WINEMAKER
PATRICIA LOZANO AND HEAD OF
QUALITY, CARLOS ORGILÉS
HAMMEKEN CELLARS COLLABORATES
WITH TREES FOR THE FUTURE FOR ITS
I’M YOUR ORGANIC LINE, WHERE FOR EVERY
BOTTLE SOLD A TREE IS PLANTED
IN DEFORESTED AREAS IN AFRICA
then undergoes high-tech de-alcoholisation, preserving both freshness and
aroma. The firm also markets natural wines – Nanit – orange wine (Nanit Orange
Wine) and wines with a social commitment like its I’m Your Organic organic
and vegan line. For each of the wines it sells, a tree is planted as a way of actively
participating in reducing CO2 emissions.
Hammeken Cellars wines come from twenty-one Spanish appellations, including
Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Priorat and Rías Baixas, allowing the company to provide
a tailored response to consumer demand across the spectrum. Although the firm
works in collaboration with several wineries including co-operatives across
Spain, it recently acquired its own winery in DO Jumilla, Finca las Piñas, which
will soon operate entirely with renewable energies. The aim is to “fuse wine traditions
with new technology” and show unwavering respect for the environment,
explains the company’s marketing manager David Añó. With this in mind, it has
just launched a new AOC-certified bag-in-box format. “We have become experts
in this type of container. Since 2010, we have been exporting boxes globally and
our volume totals 2,000,000 units a year”. With its combination of innovation,
quality and commitment, Hammeken Cellars has undeniably found the winning
formula for success.
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43

DISCOVERING THE ELEGANCE
OF SOUTH AFRICAN CAP CLASSIQUE
BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU DIPWSET
PHOTOGRAPHS : COURTESY OF
THE ESTATES
The first encounter with an exceptional South African Cap Classique is
often revelatory, heightening the appreciation of its quality. While these
sophisticated sparkling wines are crafted using the traditional method, they
don’t aim to mimic renowned sparkling wines. Instead, they strive to carve
out a unique identity on the world’s sparkling stage. Perhaps they already
have - subtly, sublimely.
WHAT MAKES KRONE SPECIAL IS THAT THEY ONLY RELEASE VINTAGE CAP CLASSIQUE
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SPARKLINGS
CHARLES FOX FOCUS ON THE THREE TRADITIONAL CHAMPAGNE VARIETIES
Celebrating its 50 th milestone in 2021, Cap Classique - formerly Méthode Cap Classique - rebranded
to align with global naming conventions for traditional method sparkling wines. This change
mirrors the succinctness of terms like Champagne in France, Cava in Spain, and Franciacorta in Italy,
enhancing clarity, legal standing, and market positioning for South African Cap Classique. Like Champagne,
the Cap Classique designation is earned through adherence to stringent production methods,
including the crucial second fermentation in bottle, which imparts the distinctive characteristics beloved
by sparkling wine enthusiasts.
While a broader array of grape varieties is permissible, exemplary Cap Classiques predominantly feature
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with Pinot Meunier to a lesser extent. A recent amendment to South African
legislation, effective from the 2023 vintage, mandates a minimum of 12 months spent on the lees, underscoring
the commitment to quality. Additionally, the Cap Classique Producers Association (CCPA) has
partnered with the Cape Wine Academy to establish the Cap Classique Academy, an educational initiative
to foster a deeper understanding and appreciation of the category’s diversity and complexity.
As South Africans celebrate Cap Classique Day on September 1st, iconic producers like Simonsig Wine
Estate, where Cap Classique was born, have played pivotal roles in shaping the category’s success. From
market leaders like Graham Beck, who focuses exclusively on Cap Classique, to boutique producers like
Charles Fox, the burgeoning reputation of Cap Classique has also attracted unexpected contenders,
achieving remarkable success.
A TOUCH OF FR☺ENCH FLAIR
It is fitting that the beautiful winelands town Franschhoek (French corner) has become a flagbearer for
Cap Classique. The French Huguenots sought refuge here in 1694, laying the foundation of its heritage.
Today, the town boasts its own Cap Classique route and hosts the annual Cap Classique & Champagne
Festival in December.
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SOUTH AFRICA
SPARKLINGS
RICKETY BRIDGE WINEMAKER DONOVAN ACKERMANN AND MARI KOTZE,
WINEMAKER, WELCOMING GUESTS AT THEIR TASTING ROOM
KLEIN ROOSBOOM WINEMAKER PITI COETZEE
It is also home to stellar Cap Classique brands, of
which the L’Ormarins Private Cuvee 2015 from Antonij
Rupert Wyne has garnered 93 points from Gilbert &
Gaillard. Haute Cabrière, too, has a rich history with
Cap Classique in Franschhoek. Its founder, Achim
von Arnim, was the second in 1983 to produce Cap
Classique in South Africa - Pierre Jourdan, named
after the French Huguenot who first owned the land,
honouring the town’s French heritage.
Cellar master Tim Hoek proudly shares Von Arnim
was the first to truly focus on the noble Champagne
varieties, and the Pierre Jourdan Blanc de Blancs 2018
duly impressed the tasting panel with 94 points.
“Today we work with suppliers from Robertson and
the Breedekloof while the vineyard block for the
Blanc de Blancs, planted in 2003, is situated here
in Franschhoek, showcasing the valley’s remarkable
capabilities.”
They aim to produce fruit-driven wines with Chardonnay
as the star and Pinot Noir to flesh out the
palate. “While Champagne serves as an inspiration,
Cap Classique is showing steady growth thanks to the
great work done by Pieter Ferreira and the CCPA. As
Pieter always says, you must taste the sunshine.”
The Blanc de Blancs is left on the lees for five years to
emphasise its ageability, and Hoek believes they are
only now getting a solid understanding of lees time
and the impeccable planning required to create a
top-end Cap Classique.
Rickety Bridge cellar master Donovan Ackermann is
driven by a passion for innovation, a trait shared by
many in Franschhoek’s Cap Classique community.
They pride themselves on the mosaic of building
blocks sourced from different clones, soil types, and
microclimates in Franschhoek. This year, they are
expanding their vineyard holdings with four hectares
of Chardonnay, a promising sign of the forthcoming
creations destined for their Cap Classique.
“We are certainly on top of things in South Africa, and
the CCPA keeps us abreast of cutting-edge trends and
technologies, hosting workshops that provide invaluable
camaraderie and idea-sharing among fellow
winemakers.”
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SPARKLINGS
DE VILLIERS FAMILY FROM KLEIN ROOSBOOM
COOL AND CAPTIVATING
Winning the Best in Class with their Marné Brut NV at the 2019 Amorim Cap Classique Challenge gave
the Klein Roosboom team the affirmation they needed to strive for excellence in the Durbanville Wine
Valley. The name Klein Roosboom (Little Rose Tree) pays homage to the two original farms that now
form the estate. At the same time, owner Karin De Villiers honours her own family tree by naming the
wines after her late husband, their children, and grandchildren, with each back label featuring an open
letter to these beloved individuals.
“I always had the dream of making my own Cap Classique,” she shares, her eyes lighting up as she adjusts
her signature bandana. A formidable woman, De Villiers has bravely built on Jéan’s legacy by taking
over as sole proprietor. Today her children are involved in the business, and even their winemaker, Piti
Coetzee, is a family friend who has lived nearby all his life.
A remarkable phenomenon at Klein Roosboom is that 90% of their wine is sold directly at the cellar door.
The jovial family atmosphere, the beautiful farm restaurant Jéan, and the unique wine-tasting nooks
in cement fermenters that were opened and decorated add to the wine tourism appeal. Although Cap
Classique is still produced in small quantities, the team has big ambitions to put Cap Classique on the
map for a valley nudging Cape Town.
Coetzee is very excited about the Cap Classique they produce. “It’s like wrapping up a Christmas gift only
to unwrap its magic two years later,” he says. “The Durbanville valley, with its undulating hills, creates cool
microclimates. One can see the mist draping the hills in the morning, ensuring a slow ripening period
that ensures finesse in the wines.”
The Klein Roosboom My Way Brut 2020 (91) and Rosé (93) carry their fruit on bright acidities and a refined
mineral structure, culminating into a chalky, lingering finish. The Brut, reminiscent of green apple and pear,
is toned by rich pastry nuances from 32 months on the lees, while the Rosé exudes pomegranate, florals, and
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47

GRAHAM BECK IN ROBERTSON IS
RENOWNED FOR THEIR SIGNIFICANT
CONTRIBUTION TO THE FINEST CAP
CLASSIQUE
BORDEAUX
TRAVEL
THE KLEIN ROOSBOOM MARNÉ
BRUT MCC IS NAMED AFTER
THE OWNERS DAUGHTER
STEPHAN DE BEER - CELLAR
MASTER AT KRONE
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SOUTH AFRICA
SPARKLINGS
nectarine aromas with the same attractive biscuity note.
“The aim is to build a house for Cap Classique - a culture
intertwined with people, good food, and great wine,”
adds Marné, Karin’s daughter and brand manager. “We
offer an intimate glimpse of who we are and what we
love to do. My mom learned through trial and error,
guarding the tanks from her yoga mat in the wee hours
of the morning, and now we host events that bring
people back, making them feel like family too.”
CHARLES FOX - BUSINESSMAN TURNED WINE FARMER IN ELGIN
A SINGLE-MINDED FOCUS ON CAP
CLASSIQUE
Charles Fox hails from another cool wine-producing
area - Elgin - uniquely set in a basin surrounded by
mountains. Noted for its slow growing season between
September and February, Elgin is significantly cooler
than other viticultural areas. It bestows their grapes
with long hanging periods to become phenolically
ripe while attaining delicate flavours. This boutique
winery only produces Cap Classique from estate-grown
grapes and has learned to embrace the valley’s weather
whims, establishing an identity that soars to the top in
Cap Classique conversations. Charles Fox, initially a
businessman specialising in fashion and his wife Zelda
chose Elgin as their retreat from the stressful corporate
environment. They bought a fruit farm and slowly
converted it into a wine farm in 2005.
“Being thorough and frugal, we started our wine
journey in 2007 by planting our first vineyards on fallow
land, aiming to make top-quality Cap Classique.”
Thus, the Charles Fox brand was born, focusing on
traditional Champagne varieties grown on different
slope directions and soils to ensure its hallmark qualities
and identities.
“Even though the sea is only 7 km away, we have a
mountain between us, so we do not have the temperature
moderation typical of most coastal regions.
Like most wineries, they are conscious of climate
change, although the mean temperature in Elgin has
become cooler over the last forty years. This may be due
to the topography and cloud cover, but they still don’t
take it for granted, Zelda affirms.
“Charles’ daughter, Sarah Birch, has a Master’s in Environmental
Studies and has worked on climate change
ZELDA AND CHARLES FOX CONVERTED A FRUIT FARM INTO A WINE FARM
TO FOCUS ON CAP CLASSIQUE ONLY
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49

KRONE VINEYARDS IN TULBAGH ENJOYS
WARM DAYS AND COOL NIGHTS DUE TO
THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS
for the U.N. in several African countries, the Western Cape Government, and is currently working in the
United Kingdom on climate change. She keeps us on our toes about renewables, recyclables, and repurposing!”
Planting cover crops and moving to dry land farming in 2014 have resulted in slightly lower yields, yet
excellent quality, with greater concentration and flavour. They are also moving to cane pruning instead of
spur pruning on their new vineyards, which has shown excellent results.
Their commitment to maintaining consistent top quality was affirmed with a hat trick in the Gilbert & Gaillard
tasting, awarding three of their Cap Classiques 90+ points. The Charles Fox Reserve Brut NV (90), the
Blanc de Blancs 2017 (91), and the Vintage Brut 2017 (92) all underscore the elegance produced here, reflected
in their refined mousse, fruit, and savoury balance, with bright persistence adding to their elegance.
TEMPTING TERROIR
Cap Classique showcases how the South African wine industry pursues terroir and elevates the importance
of vintage variation. The 300-year-old Twee Jonge Gezellen Estate in Tulbagh, the historic home of Krone,
produces a collection of vintage-only, terroir-driven Cap Classiques. Although the estate became wine-producing
in the 20 th century and pioneered cold fermentation in the 1950s, a devastating earthquake in 1969
delayed the introduction of Krone Cap Classique by 20 years. The first Krone Borealis 1987 was released in
1991, marking the birth of a new generation of Cap Classique.
Head winemaker Stephan De Beer, who grew up in the mountainous valley, shares that due to power cuts,
South African wine producers are forced to be radically self-reliant, with 30% of their energy now produced
by solar. Despite such challenges, a global shortage of Champagne has seen Cap Classique rise as a superb
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SPARKLINGS
alternative, leading to Krone Brut Rosé and Amphora
being listed by Massimo Bottura (voted best chef in the
world) at his Gucci Osteria in Italy.
Krone has set itself apart by exclusively crafting vintage
Cap Classique and being the first to make a single
vineyard site-specific Cap Classique range, which stood
out in the Gilbert & Gaillard tasting. The trio includes the
Twee Jonge Gezellen Blanc de Blancs (93), crafted from
a specific block of Chardonnay on the farm; the Kaaimansgat
Blanc de Blancs (91), sourced from one of the
oldest Chardonnay blocks in the Elandskloof ward; and
the Koelfontein Blanc de Blancs (91) from a block in the
Ceres Plateau area.
“We bottle each vintage separately and don’t blend away
the beautiful story of each vintage,” says De Beer. He
emphasises that meticulous winemaking and attention
to detail from vineyard to cellar set them up for any
challenge. “We rise to the challenges. It comes down to
respect for what we do, our community, the planet, and
ultimately, what goes into the bottle.”
THE LABORIE TEAM KOBUS VAN DER MERWE (CHIEF WINEMAKER)
AND SACHA MULLER (WINEMAKER)
LEGENDARY LUMINARIES
OF CAP CLASSIQUE
The Cap Classique story is one of indomitable personalities.
In Paarl, the resilience of the French Huguenots
helped shape South Africa’s wine industry. Laborie,
granted to French Huguenot Isaac Taillefert in 1691,
witnessed the efforts of Taillefert and his son Jean’s
efforts to clear the land and plant vines. They soon
produced wines that garnered the affection of one
Leguat, a Frenchman visiting the Cape in 1698, calling
it “the best in the colony and similar to our small wines
of Champagne”.
LABORIE ESTATE IS A HISTORIC, WORKING FARM AT THE FOOTHILLS
OF PAARL MOUNTAIN, LESS THAN AN HOUR’S DRIVE FROM CAPE TOWN
At present, winemaker Kobus van der Merwe, has led
the brand to numerous victories. In the 2023 Amorim
Cap Classique Challenge, Laborie emerged as the overall
winner, the Laborie Blanc de Blancs 2017, securing the
trophy for the best in its category, followed by Gilbert
& Galliard adorning the 2018 vintage with 92 points.
According to van der Merwe, maintaining brand equity
is crucial in shaping Cap Classique’s reception, achieved
through consistent quality each year. While Paarl forms
the base of most blends, regions like Wellington,
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SOUTH AFRICA
SPARKLINGS
A PORTRAIT OF THE LEGENDARY DESIDERIUS PONGRÁCZ
Robertson, and Stellenbosch each lend their unique
styles to Laborie’s range.
“Cap Classique is one of the fastest-growing categories
in our industry and a major focus for Laborie, especially
in premiumisation. Thus, a premium look and feel is
key to identifying the five styles in our range, catering
to various palates.”
Pongrácz is another name synonymous with elegance
in the realm of Cap Classique, steeped in the tale of
Desiderius Pongrácz. A figure of aristocratic lineage
and unconventional spirit, Pongrácz embarked on a
journey from Hungarian aristocracy to the vineyards
of South Africa.
He defied convention by embracing a career in viticulture,
forsaking the traditions of his aristocratic lineage.
Despite the upheavals of World War II, Pongrácz found
his way to South Africa, where his tenure as Chief Viticultural
Adviser at Distillers Corporation ushered in
an era of innovation for the wine industry, challenging
prevailing norms. Beyond his scholarly contributions,
Pongrácz’s legacy inspired the eponymous wine. It is a
Cap Classique with a great trajectory, and its distinctive
shape is that of an institution on many dinner tables.
A DEDICATION TO EXCEL☺LENCE
CELLAR MASTER PIERRE DE KLERK UNDER PUPITRE
The journey of Graham Beck underscores the profound
transformation of a category deserving of recognition.
It was founded by Graham Beck himself, whose initial
indifference to wine shifted upon discovering the potential
of the Robertson Valley for crafting exceptional
sparkling wines, shares cellar master Pierre de Klerk.
“Today, the limestone soils of this area are sought
after by many, and in 2015, the company focused all its
energy solely on Cap Classique, which has been the case
ever since the 2017 harvest.”
Their dedication to excellence permeates every
aspect of their operation, from night harvesting to a
steadfast commitment to conservation and sustainability.
Of course, this will make a consumer feel good
about investing in quality, knowing their favourite
Graham Beck Cap Classique is part of conserving a
significant area of land for every hectare utilised and
exploring eco-friendly packaging alternatives.
Embracing the diverse terroirs, Graham Beck
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SOUTH AFRICA
SPARKLINGS
GRAHAM BECK CELLAR MASTER PIERRE DE KLERK AND COO PIETER FERREIRA
collaborates with various producers to select parcels that impart unique characteristics to their
Cap Classique’s. Leveraging the climatic nuances in Robertson, including diurnal temperature
shifts, they optimise harvesting practices to preserve the grapes’ freshness and integrity.
About the future, De Klerk articulates: “We aspire to grow our Vintage Collection, showcasing the
immense quality of Cap Classique aged on lees for long periods (minimum 4 years in our case).
Our newly-added Artisan Collection tier also allows us to release and showcase small-batch Cap
Classiques of particular interest to the curious and discerning consumers.”
A ☺SPARKLING FUTURE
For Cap Classique producers, it remains crucial to illustrate the value of Cap Classique. While
Brut is a burgeoning category, introducing “Nectar” (Demi-sec style) to Cap Classique has
significantly increased its consumption. This style appeals to consumers who prefer sweeter
sparkling wines and now favour the quality difference and sophistication they find in sweeter
Cap Classique. Perceptions are certainly changing, and the confidence of Cap Classique producers
is growing as they stand firm in their ability to produce exceptional sparkling wines in the
southern hemisphere. Great care is taken in protecting grapes, using technology to monitor
vineyard stress levels and closely monitoring ripening to commit to minimal intervention in
the cellar that embraces a sense of place while maintaining a consistent house style. While
earlier harvesting periods indicate seasonal shifts, prompting producers to increase harvest
capacity to ensure they can harvest quicker while maintaining quality, the bigger hurdle remains
price point, as quality has now broken the price ceiling, which hinders growth. Cap Classique
producers over-deliver on quality, far surpassing expectations for the current price, creating an
opportunity for growth and broader recognition.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
53

THE INCREDIBLE DIVERSITY OF
PROVENCE ROSÉ APPELLATIONS
BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS
PHOTOGRAPHS:
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES
Provence rosés are the stars of summer but they also bring joy all year round.
Grown in a magnificent region in the South of France, they offer outstanding
variety and are worth rediscovering for their joyful character and their
wellness-inducing aromatic spectrum.
CHÂTEAU COUSSIN IN TRETS
LÉGENDES
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PROVENCE
REGION
Some images flirt with perfection. The vineyards
in the South of France shine for their unrivalled
natural environment. Vines share the landscape with
unforgettable hillsides and mountains, maquis on
crystalline soils and garrigue on limestone. In this
near-idyllic setting, the Mediterranean climate is
just as felicitous – with its sunny, dry, hot weather, it
offers vines 2,800 hours of sunshine a year. Buoyed
by these natural assets, positive momentum and a
global market in growth mode, Provence’s winegrowers
showcase their proficiency by crafting
balanced and distinctive quality rosés. A remarkable
array of grape varieties features Grenache, Syrah,
Mourvèdre, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Carignan,
Cinsault and Tibouren, a long-standing cultivar
along the Mediterranean rim with a hallmark pale
salmon colour. The region produces 87% rosés, 9%
reds and 4% whites over a total vineyard area of
27,000 hectares. It accounts for 40% of France’s
domestic rosé production, spanning three major
appellations – Côtes-de-Provence, Coteaux d’Aix and
Coteaux Varois – which supply around 5.6% of the
global market. Five village-designated appellations
– Cassis, Bandol, Palette, Les Baux-de-Provence and
Bellet – complete the roster with their own specific
personalities and characterful, high-end rosés. This
expertise allows the region to play a pivotal role in
a booming industry with an international focus,
aligning with the needs and desires of consumers.
A WINEGROWER IN ACTION AT DOMAINE DES BERGERIES
DE HAUTE PROVENCE
JEAN-LUC MONTEIL AND ÉLOÏSE MASSOT WITH THEIR FAMILY
DOMAINE DES BERGERIES
DE HAUTE PROVENCE:
TERROIR-DRIVEN ROSÉS
Nestled amidst the national parks of the Luberon and
the Verdon, Domaine des Bergeries de Haute-Provence
has established a reputation as one of the
region’s finest wine tourism sites. Its restored sheep
barns and recreational areas offer an energising
cocooning atmosphere. At its helm, Jean-Luc Monteil
and Éloïse Massot produced their first vintage in
2020. The vines are farmed organically and biodynamically
and the grapes are picked by hand. The
eleven-strong varietal range is grown on soils that
see no chemical inputs. “Our rosés show distinctive
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
55

LÉGENDES
LÉGENDES
DOMAINE DE L’OLIVETTE WITH THE BEC DE L’AIGLE IN THE BACKGROUND
WHICH PEAKS AT 155 METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
JEAN-LUC DUMOUTIER, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE
DE L’OLIVETTE
freshness due to the vineyard sites 600 metres above sea level”, says Massot. “The wines are fermented using natural
yeasts and our Terracotta label, for instance, is matured for six months in amphorae”. In an era of climate change,
these medium-elevation sites are demonstrating their efficiency in producing naturally fresh, balanced wines. “We
want to produce fine, delicate, terroir-driven rosés for pleasure”, adds Monteil. “We have focused on re-launching
a rosé made virtually entirely from Syrah in a crisp, appetising style with a deeper colour that can take people by
surprise”. Although exports only account for a small share of sales – 20% - they offer some promising markets in
Northern Europe and the West Indies.
DOMAINE DE L’OLIVETTE: THE ART OF CHARACTER
In a stunning natural amphitheatre, the majestic landscape offers a breathtaking contrast with the Mediterranean
Sea. Domaine de l’Olivette has been in the same family since the 18 th century and has been gradually built up over the
generations to its present-day 55 hectares planted on the hillsides of Le Castellet. Set in the heart of the Bandol appellation,
vine growing is traditional here. Judicious intervention to manage soil fertility using only natural amendments
precludes the use of chemical weedkillers and insecticides. The tenth-generation incumbent, Jean-Luc Dumoutier
and his wife Élisabeth have undertaken extensive modernisation work in the winery which now boasts high-performance
equipment. “Our characterful rosés make a great partner for tapas as an aperitif, but even more so for a meal
of spicy dishes, grilled meats, baked fish and Mediterranean salads”, explains Dumoutier. “Bandol wines are blends
that reveal stellar complexity. Mourvèdre fully instils typicity with its structure and spice notes”. The clay-limestone
soils and cluster thinning help reduce yields and promote concentration in the wines. Consistently high standards
produce a structured, fine range where aromatic complexity meshes perfectly with the flavour of food.
ESTANDON COOPÉRATIVE EN PROVENCE: COMMUNITY SPIRIT☺
For over half a century, the 300 wine growers at Estandon have pooled their knowledge of their vineyard sites to fully
express a sense of Provence. This co-operative spirit is encapsulated in wines which encourage sharing and convi-
56 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

CLÉMENCE, A GRAPE
GROWER FOR ESTANDON
IN LE THORONET
LÉGENDES
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
57

PROVENCE
REGION
GUY, A GRAPE GROWER FOR ESTANDON IN BRIGNOLES
viality. The winery’s 20 million bottles – 90% of them
rosé – are grown over 2,500 hectares of vineyards. It
accounts for as much as 10% of Provence’s total production
and 20% of its bulk wine sales. The wines reflect a
commitment by its winegrowers to protect the environment
– with 30% of the crop certified, Estandon is
Provence’s leading organic co-operative. The company
has also made a pledge to use environmentally-friendly
packaging – its new organic range features lighter
bottles, bio-based capsules and labels with reduced
paper weight. “Our rosés echo the appellation”, explains
marketing director Gaétan Hawadier. “They stem from
a long-standing history, unrivalled soils and a distinctive
climate. They reflect team work and a profound respect
for the land and humanity”. The vineyard blocks entwine
harmoniously with almond trees, olive groves, truffle
oaks, lavender fields and umbrella pines, creating unique
and varied landscapes. The co-operative sells wines in
more than 40 countries and is extremely successful in
the Netherlands, Great Britain and the United States.
YANN JOUËT, THE MANAGING DIRECTOR OF CHÂTEAU MARGÜI
CHÂTEAU MARGÜI:
A UNIQUE ENVIRONMENT
Château Margüi ranks among the major Provence
estates and offers an outstanding immersion into a
unique natural environment. Built in 1784, the chateau
displays all the features of the country manor houses of
the time – with its 600 m 2 footprint over three floors, it
overlooks the formal gardens joined by an impressive
staircase. This peaceful location suffused with the scent
of lavender is surrounded by ancient oak trees and olive
groves that come alive in summer to the sound of the
cicadas. It has three natural springs that are used for
the vineyards and offer nourishment for the fertile
land farmed by passionate winegrowers. They produce
aromatic, complex Coteaux Varois wines showing
great freshness. “The contrast between day and night
time temperatures has an influence on the ripening
process of the fruit, producing good phenolic ripeness”,
comments director Yann Jouët. “The diverse range of
grape varieties in our 28 blocks allows us to adapt to
each vintage and produce very elegant wines with lovely
fruitiness and floral notes with no overpowering citrus
and lovely sourness on the finish”.
58 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

THE CELLAR AND ITS BARRELS AT
CHÂTEAU MARGÜI
GHISLAINE AND ALAIN SARRAN AT
LA BASTIDE DES TERRES BLANCHES
LA BASTIDE DES TERRES BLANCHES: THE QUALITIES OF CINSAULT
Located 300 metres above sea level, the village of Flayosc is home to a sublime setting of hills and olive groves set
between the sea and the mountains. In 2018, Alain Sarran and his wife Ghislaine bought La Bastide des Terres
Blanches surrounded by woodland with 150 olive trees and truffle oaks. The soils here are clay-limestone and the
estate has eight hectares, two of which are home to bearing vineyards. “Our vision focuses on farming organically
with vineyards certified High Environmental Value”, explains Alain Sarran. “This commitment implies favouring
low yields but high quality. Our rosés are made primarily from Cinsault which produces a clear, light wine with
low acidity and fruitiness. It is enjoyable from the aperitif through to dessert”. In just six years and armed with
genuine talent, the couple has successfully met increased consumer demand whilst continuing to align with the
high quality standards of the appellation.
CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE: SITE-EXPRESSIVE CÔTES-DE-PROVENCE
For 72 years now, the history of Château Paquette has been inseparable from that of a long-standing family
of winegrowers. Nestled amidst pine groves, the estate looks as if it is perched on the volcanic rocks of the
Estérel mountain range, with the sea mist setting the tempo. Here, the winery has kept its original identity
as a symbol of winegrowing expertise passed down through three generations. “We value the terroir and its
unique geological origins”, stresses Jérôme Paquette. “The specific weather patterns benefit from a unique
wind regime combining the Mistral and the Génois, sea breezes and wind hailing from the lower foothills of
the Alps by night”. Grape varieties like Tibouren show concentrated site-expressiveness. The varietal’s fine spice
characters are entwined with the delicate white fruit from the Grenache and the structure of Mourvèdre. “The
winemaking process is as hands-off as possible”, adds Paquette. “I do not use sulphite during the process or
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
59

HARVESTING GRAPES AT
ESTANDON
BORDEAUX
TRAVEL
A GRAPE PICKER AT
BASTIDE DES TERRES
BLANCHES
ROBERT GHIGO TASTING
HIS WINES
60 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

THE TEAM AT CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE WITH JÉRÔME PAQUETTE
ON THE RIGHT
CAMILLE GHIGO, THE DAUGHTER OF ROBERT GHIGO
WHO BOUGHT DOMAINE DE CHÂTEAU VERT IN 2010
any artificial techniques like adding inert gas. The Tibouren and Grenache grapes are soaked for
two to three hours depending on the vintage. Usually, the Mourvèdre goes direct-to-press”. The
results are impressive with wines that are very complex aromatically but are not overpowering and
show great volume and perfect texture on the palate.
VIGNOBLES GHIGO, DOMAINE DE CHÂTEAU VERT:
HITTING ALL THE RIGHT NOTES
Set between the Maures mountain range and the Mediterranean, the vineyards here bask in a
very propitious maritime micro-climate. Low rainfall combines with generous sunshine and fairly
strong winds. Domaine de Château Vert has featured on land registry records since the 17 th century
and lives up to the colour in its name with its typical regional pine grove covering several hectares.
Purchased by Robert Ghigo in 2010, it embraces 40 hectares including 30 of organically-farmed
vineyards. Its coastal location is fairly unusual and now actually in town due to urban sprawl.
“Everything has an impact, from the soil type to the nearby sea whose spray lends the wines their
distinctive features such as their salty edge and great acidity”, comments Camille Ghigo, Robert
Ghigo’s daughter. “On top of this is love and the attention we pay to every stage of production”. The
range runs from PGI Var – with the user-friendly, enjoyable Sabine label – to Côtes de Provence
rosé which is more complex with pronounced citrus notes, and the Séduction label with great
complexity that makes it perfect for food. “Each wine is impacted by the grape varieties used and
the age of the vines”, adds Camille Ghigo. “It reflects the single-vineyard selection with different
types of soil, which is quite sandy for the PGI and clay-schist for the other appellations”.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
61

PROVENCE
REGION
CHÂTEAU COUSSIN:
A STORY OF ROOTS
SOPHIE SUMEIRE DENANTE AND HER BROTHER OLIVIER SUMEIRE
Genealogy records attest to the presence of the Sumeire
family in the village of Trets as early as 1238. Sophie
Sumeire-Denante and her brother Olivier Sumeire
are now at the helm of this unique property located
on the southern slopes of Mount Sainte-Victoire,
where the clay-limestone soils coupled with a continental
micro-climate lend their stamp to refined rosés.
“The land where we have our roots is considered to be
among the most unspoilt in France. It has very specific
geo-climatic characteristics with mostly limestone and
clayey-sandstone soils strewn with stones”, explains
Sophie Sumeire-Denante. “The soils are poor with good
drainage at a moderate elevation making them conducive
to growing vines. By focusing on selection out in
the field then in the winery, we do our utmost to craft
balanced, elegant, fine wines”. One of the main objectives
at Coussin is to preserve the typical freshness of
the Sainte-Victoire mountain and to combine it with the
traditional family craftsmanship passed down through
eight generations of winegrowers with a firm rooting in
Trets in Provence.
OLIVIER SUMEIRE IN HIS VINEYARD
CHÂTEAU DE BEAUPRÉ:
PRIORITISING NATURE
The impressive story of this family estate began in 1855
in the heart of the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence region
when Emile Double bought Beaupré. The site offered
a charming stop-over for his family and coaching inn
for his horses on his trips out. Over the years, the winegrowing
aspect developed amidst the unspoilt, bountiful
surroundings home to vines, ancient plane trees
and natural springs. However, it was not until 1971 that
Christian Double, a young engineer, and his wife Marie-
Jeanne took over at the winery’s helm and expanded the
wine business. The dynamic, inventive Double reverted
to ancient winemaking techniques, allowing the fruit
to express its finest aromas and tannins. At the turn of
the 21st century, his daughter, Phanette Double, joined
him. After taking over the winery in 2003, she converted
the vineyards over to organic in 2013. This year, she is
celebrating her 20 years of winemaking with a new label
62 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

BEAUPRÉ-RENAUD ALOUCHE : MARIE-JEANNE AND CHRISTIAN DOUBLE, WITH PHANETTE DOUBLE,
THE MANAGER OF CHÂTEAU BEAUPRÉ, IN THE MIDDLE
PHANETTE DOUBLE IN HER VINEYARDS WITH HER DOG
that is both free-spirited and spontaneous. “Our rosés show distinctive palate weight
and ripeness”, she comments. “The clay-limestone soils produce great freshness and
the climate allows our grapes to ripen beautifully. We choose to work with Grenache
and Cinsault for their finesse. When Syrah goes direct-to-press, it reveals wonderful
spicy notes”.
PROVENCE, THE NATURAL LEADER
Undeniably, the winegrowers of Provence have successfully extended their product range.
Both the vineyard sites and wine styles show variety. In addition to a choice of pleasant
and very affordable entry-level wines are some real terroir-driven gems – these come
from low-cropped vines and are skilfully produced using properly harnessed winemaking
techniques. Also, their colour sets them apart and gives them their hallmark identity.
These jewels in Provence’s crown display a distinctive bright, light colour, symbolising
transparency and clarity. Although not a decisive buying cue, it offers an easily identifiable
point of reference for consumers, particularly with regard to other French or overseas
wine regions where the colour of rosé wines is darker. Covid may well have had an
impact for a while, but this growth category is spearheaded by Provence rosés and offers
a gateway to the world. The wines make the perfect match for Thai, Japanese, Indian or
even North African cuisine, providing almost universal pleasure which is likely to grow
in markets like Asia where consumption remains currently low.
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
63

PINOT GRIGIO, THE ITALIAN
CROWD-PLEASER
BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO
PHOTOGRAPHS:
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES
Pinot Grigio, one of the world’s most popular grape varieties, has found
an ideal home in Italy and become a symbol of the country’s winemaking
excellence. Originating in Burgundy, France, the variety crossed the Alps
into Italy in the 19 th century, where it has since thrived in several regions,
developing unique characteristics that set it apart from its French and New
World counterparts.
DACASTELLO VINI SUPPLIES OVER 100 TYPES OF WINE DEEPLY ROOTED IN ITALIAN REGIONALITY FROM THE VINEYARD UP
LÉGENDES
64 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

ITALY
TERROIR
FOR TWENTY YEARS, DACASTELLO VINI HAS BEEN ENHANCING THE ITALIAN WINE SCENE BY OFFERING A WIDE RANGE OF WINES DEEPLY ROOTED IN TERROIR
P
inot Grigio, also known as Pinot Gris in France, owes its name to the particular
coloring of its grapes, which varies from a bluish grey to a coppery pink. In Italy, it
thrives in the north-east of the country in the regions of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Trentino-Alto
Adige and Veneto, but it is also increasingly grown in other regions of Central
and Southern Italy. Italian Pinot Grigio is known for its freshness and lightness, with
an aromatic bouquet that can include notes of green apple, pear, citrus, and sometimes
white flowers. Its structure varies depending on its production location, with
wines from Trentino-Alto Adige showing higher acidity and those from Veneto being
softer and rounder. In terms of flavour profile, Pinot Grigio is generally dry, with a
clean and refreshing finish.
Drilling down deeper, the variety delivers many nuances depending on its production
area. In Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Pinot Grigio grapes produce complex, refined wines.
Many producers in this area experiment with advanced winemaking techniques such
as skin-contact maceration, which gives the wines greater body and depth. In Trentino-Alto
Adige, the Alpine climate, with its temperature variations, allows the grapes
to develop intense aromas and good structure, producing wines with lively acidity
and marked minerality. In Veneto, one of the largest Italian Pinot Grigio production
areas, the grapes produce fresher, more versatile wines.
In recent years, Italy has seen growing interest in sustainable and organic viticulture.
Many Pinot Grigio producers are adopting environmentally-friendly vineyard
management techniques and reducing the use of pesticides and chemical fertilisers.
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65

LÉGENDES
WITH ITS PROFESSIONAL
STAFF, DACASTELLO VINI
HAS BEEN ENHANCING THE
ITALIAN WINE SCENE FOR
TWENTY YEARS
In addition, winemakers are experimenting with new approaches such as
the use of indigenous yeasts and ageing in terracotta amphorae to enhance
site-expressiveness. Italian Pinot Grigio epitomises the perfect blend of tradition
and innovation. Its ability to reflect the unique characteristics of the
different production regions, combined with a strong focus on sustainable
and innovative techniques, make it one of the most appreciated white wines
both in Italy and around the world.
We have selected a number of wineries that have taken different approaches
to the variety in different areas.
DACASTELLO
For 20 years, Dacastello has been showcasing the best of Italian production
by offering a wide range of wines with strong local roots. The company’s
selection includes an assortment spanning more than one hundred types of
wine that represent the best combination of local character and winemaking
value. Within this vast assortment, Pinot Grigio undoubtedly represents one
of the most attractive wines for both the domestic and international markets.
Although Pinot Grigio is a very common European grape variety, it takes on
quite specific characteristics depending on the areas where it is grown. It
responds to both climate and vineyard location, generally favouring low-lying
land with fertile soils. Vineyard management must be supported by adequate
fertilisation and careful annual pruning.
66 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

STEFANO GIRELLI
AND PETER KOSTEN,
TWO ENTREPRENEURS WITH
MORE THAN 30 YEARS’
EXPERIENCE IN THE WORLD
OF WINE, JOINED FORCES
AT CASA GIRELLI TO OFFER
QUALITY WINES
Pinot Grigio Vicenza DOC has a straw-yellow colour with golden hues. The nose is
delicate and pleasant while the palate is dry, harmonious and velvety. The success of
Pinot Grigio undoubtedly derives from its international fame. It is one of the bestknown
varieties and has become a go-to grape for the general public. In addition,
the aromatic qualities of Pinot Grigio have the ability to win over a wide variety of
palates. It is a simple, accessible, fresh and balanced wine and this versatility allows
it to work well as a summer aperitif or to accompany a meal at any time of year.
THE WINE PEOPLE
Pinot Grigio is one of the most widely known and appreciated grape varieties globally
for still wines, renowned for its versatility. It is grown in Sicily by The Wine People
where it is used to produce wines characterised by freshness, balanced acidity and
citrus notes, making them very popular with consumers. Pinot Grigio was introduced
to Sicily about 20 years ago and has found a particularly interesting climate on
the island. The warm and sunny weather, together with the type of soil, has allowed
the variety to develop a different style than the versions produced in the northern
regions of Italy. In Sicily, Pinot Grigio stands out for its unique intensity and structure,
accompanied by citrus notes and lively freshness. The early harvesting of the
grapes, combined with non-invasive winemaking techniques, preserves the fresh
aromas and palatability.
In the Purato Catarratto Pinot Grigio Terre Siciliane PGI, the winery has combined
Pinot Grigio with the indigenous Catarratto grape variety to tap into the structure
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
67

AT DACASTELLO VINI, PINOT GRIGIO
IS SUPPORTED WITH ADEQUATE
FERTILISATION AND CONSISTENT,
CAREFUL PRUNING
BORDEAUX
TRAVEL
TWP OFFERS AN ALL-ROUND SERVICE
THAT REVOLVES ENTIRELY AROUND ITS
CUSTOMERS, FROM PRODUCT DESIGN,
PRODUCTION AND LOGISTICS TO
CUSTOMER SERVICE
VILLA LA FAVORITA, A PALLADIAN-STYLE
VENETIAN VILLA, WAS PURCHASED IN 2021
TO PRESERVE AND ENHANCE THE AREA’S
ARTISTIC HERITAGE
68 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

ITALY
TERROIR
of Catarratto and the freshness of Pinot Grigio and create a balanced and complex
wine. The choice of harvest time is a key factor in maintaining the freshness and
aromas of Pinot Grigio: harvesting early preserves the liveliness and natural acidity
of the grapes. Pinot Grigio is particularly popular for its easy-drinking style and its
ability to accompany a wide range of dishes such as seafood, white meats, salads
and fresh cheeses. This versatility makes it a wine of choice in restaurants and wine
shops around the world, even for aperitifs.
CIELO TERRA WINES
Cielo e Terra was founded in 1908 by the Cielo family and then merged in 1999 with
the winegrowers of the Colli Berici cellars, known today as the Collis Group. Pinot
Grigio and its pink version, alongside Prosecco, are their two key product lines with
approximately 6 million bottles produced out of a total of 35 million. The wines are
sold worldwide in both mature and emerging markets – the company is a market
leader in exporting Pinot Grigio to Turkey for instance. This particular Pinot Grigio
is locally sourced with controlled origins – it is supplied by winegrowers operating
in the area between Vicenza and Verona. With its Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, the
company joined the winetowater.org project supporting clean and healthy water
CIELO TERRA IS LOCATED IN A FERTILE AREA WITH A WEALTH OF BIODIVERSITY NEAR THE
SEA, SHELTERED BY THE LITTLE DOLOMITES
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
69

ITALY
TERROIR
THE VINEYARDS OF CIELO TERRA’S MEMBER GROWERS STRETCH BETWEEN THE PROVINCES
OF VICENZA AND VERONA, AN UNSPOILT LAND WITH VOLCANIC AND BASALT ORIGINS
projects during crises around the world such as the
war in Ukraine and the earthquake in Turkey. The
project also influenced the restyling of the Pinot
Grigio packaging.
Despite the challenging nature of the variety, this
location has offered Pinot Grigio the ideal environment
to show off its potential. The decision to stick
to the DOC regulations of the Venezie guarantees
low yields which are pivotal to the quality of the
wine, compared with other regulations that push
productivity to the detriment of quality. From a
winemaking perspective, classic methods are used
with fast, gentle pressing aimed at optimising the
colour, oxygenation of the must to avoid instability
in the wine further down the line and temperature-controlled
fermentation in stainless steel
tanks. The resultant wine displays a light-yellow
colour, a young, light bouquet with floral and pear
notes, medium acidity on the palate and a rounded,
well-structured body. Pinot Grigio has enjoyed
excellent global popularity for over 50 years: it is an
easy-drinking wine with the right balance of freshness,
acidity and fruitiness and has always offered
very good value for money, all of which is at the root
of its popularity.
SOLO ROBERTO WINES
THE WINES BY SOLO ROBERTO EPITOMISE THE GRAVE DEL FRIULI AREA, HOME TO SOILS
OF ALLUVIAL ORIGINS WHICH ARE PREDOMINANTLY STONY AND GRAVELLY
The ethos at Solo Roberto Vini is focused on the
production of extremely aromatic, fruity wines that
tantalise the nose and palate without compromising
on freshness and minerality. This is promoted by
the unusual local soils and climate in the Grave del
Friuli. The founder, Roberto D’Innocenzo, has been
in the wine business for more than 22 years and
started bottling under his own brand ‘Just Roberto’
10 years ago, taking advantage of his knowledge of
bulk brokers and his long-established relationships
with wineries. He offered them technical support
to make labels and tank blends with the quality
and taste required by the market. Four years ago,
the company invested in a 20-hectare winery in
Tauriano di Spilimbergo in the province of Pordenone,
where it produces around 80-100k bottles per
year, 30% of which is Pinot Grigio.
70 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

ROBERTO D’INNOCENZO SELECTS
FINE WINES DIRECTLY
FROM THE BEST VINEYARDS IN
FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA
The winery is located in the northern part of the Grave del Friuli DOC area facing
the Alps and close to the sea. It is located about 200 metres above sea level on a
terrace formed by pebbles and stones swept downstream by the river with strong
air currents. This unusual pedo-climate helps promote aromatics, minerality and
freshness in the wine. Also, the soil behaves almost hydroponically – among other
things, the clay beneath the pebbles favours the permeation of rainwater. The root
system is no more than half a metre deep, so the combination of these soils and
underground drip irrigation – which eliminates or reduces the need for treatments,
whereas sprinkler irrigation weakens the leaves and makes them more vulnerable
and in need of more treatments – leads to targeted stress in the plant. In non-fatty
and recently ploughed soil – causing the weeds to become humus – this gives the
soil and the vine greater aeration and maintains the microflora, including bacteria.
The same drip system is also used in the case of targeted mineral supply. No herbicides
are used but rather ‘agrophomical’ treatments are carried out with spray and
recovery panels that only go on the leaves, not on the ground, and therefore do
not enter the roots. Pruning is strictly by hand with early selection resulting in a
maximum of 2 clusters per plant. All this lends the wine an impressive and highly
sought-after aromatic, fruity character.
The Pinot Grigio from this area therefore tends to have very pronounced aromatic,
fruity notes that can cover those of the other ultimate aromatic wines such as
Traminer and Sauvignon. This is due to an extremely pleasant flavour profile with
notes of ripe fruit ranging from green apple to Williams pear, with a banana edge
and apricot-driven finish.
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71

DR FRANCESCO LIANTONIO,
CHAIRMAN OF THE TORREVENTO
WINERY, IS A MEMBER OF THE
FAMILY THAT FOUNDED THE
WINERY IN 1913
BORDEAUX
TRAVEL
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ITALY
TERROIR
TORREVENTO
THE TORREVENTO WINERY WAS ESTABLISHED IN AN ANCIENT STONE MONASTERY
DATING BACK TO THE 17 TH CENTURY
This winery, based in the Murgia hills at the foot
of Castel del Monte in northern Puglia, does not
produce Pinot Grigio directly as it is not a typical
Apulian grape. Torrevento has, however, decided
to produce certain wines from the variety to meet
demand in the German and American markets,
among others. Torrevento Winery has a strong
presence in Germany in both the on-trade and
large-scale distribution channels with typical
native Puglian varieties, mainly Nero di Troia,
Primitivo, Bombino Bianco and Bombino Nero.
The use of Pinot Grigio grapes – in response to the
varietal’s booming sales when it became almost a
fashionable symbol of ‘Italianness’ – was a portfolio
extension aimed at German supermarkets,
in contrast to the standard profile of Torrevento,
and was always blended with other typical grape
varieties grown in the estate’s own vineyards in
the northern part of Puglia such as Bombino
Bianco and Trebbiano.
Growing Pinot Grigio is particularly challenging
and requires special conditions and attention in
both the vineyards and the cellar. The variety needs
particular environmental conditions to develop,
with very cold climates and compatible soils. It is
particularly difficult to grow outside its native areas
and this is why the winery has decided to introduce
it only in specific products that reference its ideal
vineyard sites. Torrevento’s interpretations of the
wines it markets follow the classic white winemaking
method. The Pinot Grigio grapes are
bolstered by regional characteristics such as the
typical Puglian cultivars mentioned above, helping
it acquire a distinct personality and stronger identity.
For Torrevento, it was important to rise to this
challenge without compromising on identity.
Pinot Grigio is therefore the allochthonous/
international variety that has succeeded more
than the others in finding an all-Italian identity
and becoming a global reference point. This is a
special case that demonstrates how a non-’typical’
variety can successfully convey individual regional
identities with greater appeal and more direct
international recognition.
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73

2025 CRUS BOURGEOIS CLASSIFICATION:
HOW THE REVIEW IS DIVIDING THE MÉDOC
BY CAMILLE BERNARD
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY
OF THE ESTATES
You can feel the tension in the Bordeaux wine world in the run-up to the 2025
update of the Crus Bourgeois classification. The five-year review, managed
by the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois, raises questions among producers,
consumers and market players. The significance of the classification, the
benefits it offers and the recent controversies surrounding it are all topics that
need to be explored to gain a better understanding of the issues involved in
this wine industry tradition.
THE CRUS BOURGEOIS CLASSIFICATION DIVIDES THE MÉDOC
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BORDEAUX
RANKING
FRANÇOIS NONY, OWNER OF CHÂTEAU CARONNE AND CHÂTEAU LABAT
T
he Alliance des Crus Bourgeois holds a special place in the Médoc. It accounts
for 30% of production, a figure which should speak volumes about the classification’s
added value in the eyes of Médoc winegrowers. Despite this, and even
though the producers’ organisation seemed to have reached its cruising speed, the
classification’s 2025 review is already promising to be a roller coaster with rumours
of widespread withdrawals and other controversies calling into question the Crus
Bourgeois’ credibility.
Although the situation has similarities with the rift caused by the 2003 classification
– where punitive conditions for eligibility led to the declassification of several
properties – it in fact seems more akin to 2020. Then, some chateaux were exempted
from the tasting phase, undermining fair treatment among applicants and leading
to a general outcry. So much so, that with just under a year to go before the next fiveyear
review, many people are questioning the classification’s credibility. “Currently,
there are more good Crus Bourgeois wines outside the classification than in, making
it unintelligible and not representative for distributors who no longer acknowledge
it”, laments François Nony, owner of Château Caronne and Château Labat.
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BORDEAUX
RANKING
THE CRUS BOURGEOIS:
A BORDEAUX TRADITION
The Crus Bourgeois are a long-standing classification
in the Médoc wine region, encompassing the
chateaux that were not included in the 1855 Grands
Crus Classés classification yet produce superior
quality wines. Although the first ‘serious’ Crus
Bourgeois classification emerged in 1932, it wasn’t
until 1962 that the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois was
founded. The producers’ organisation now represents
approximately 250 chateaux, divided between
180 Crus Bourgeois, 56 Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs
and 14 Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels.
RUMOURS OF WITHDRAWALS ARE
BEING CONFIRMED
ALL THE CHATEAUX ARE REQUIRED TO SUBMIT THEIR VINTAGES FROM 2017
TO 2022 TO A BLIND TASTING
However, such is the loss of confidence that rumours
of widespread withdrawals are gaining steam and
tending to be confirmed, even though the Alliance
remains positive: “20% of vineyard acreage has
not been re-registered, which is nowhere near the
erosion we feared”, said Franck Bijon, the chairman
of the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois, last February.
The latest withdrawal is by Château Lilian-Ladouys,
despite the fact that it was promoted to the highest
tier in the classification in the 2020 selection,
namely Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnel. “The 2020
classification was released during the pandemic and
was not able to prove itself”, says Alliance director
Jennifer Mathieu by way of justification.
CONTROVERSIES
SURROUNDING THE FIVE-YEAR
REVIEW ARE BEING DIALLED UP
The problem is that, while the Alliance is paying a
heavy toll for its previous review, other controversies
around the 2025 iteration are now escalating.
Intensification of environmental criteria and a
mandatory blind tasting of vintages 2017 to 2022 for
all chateaux are at the root of the issue. “It makes
no sense at all”, said one female winegrower who
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BORDEAUX
RANKING
CHÂTEAU CARONNE STE GEMME HAS NOT BEEN A CRU BOURGEOIS SINCE 2011
preferred to remain anonymous. Her winery, which is certified HVE level 3 [Ed: the highest
level in the High Environmental Value certification scheme] must drop back to level 2 if it
wants to apply for the Crus Bourgeois classification, failing which it would be declassified.
When asked about the issue, Jennifer Mathieu explained: “Since the last classification in 2020,
the Alliance has re-established a coherent classification hierarchy with the three levels that
are Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. Hence, the
chateaux aiming for the Cru Bourgeois classification must be certified HVE level 2 and those
applying for the complementary statements must be certified HVE level 3”.
All this comes with a hefty price tag: applications cost €8,000 and an extra €4,000 to apply
for a complementary statement. On top of which is a lot of red tape before applicants can
hope to secure the ‘golden ticket’. “It’s unwieldy and overly complex”, lamented the same
anonymous winegrower.
Jennifer Mathieu is obviously fully aware of the issues and offers words of reassurance: “We
are concerned about the issue of cost and it is a point that we are fully focusing on for the 2030
classification. However, I would like to point out that this amount covers all the technical costs
involved in monitoring properties over five years, during which we guarantee their compliance
with the expected quality”.
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BORDEAUX
RANKING
THE WINE BY CHÂTEAU ROUSSEAU DE SIPIAN HAS BEEN CLASSIFIED AS A CRU BOURGEOIS SINCE 2008
A QUALITY RESOURCE THAT NEEDS GREATER AWARENESS
Quality is another divisive issue in the Crus Bourgeois space, due to the changes in eligibility
criteria to include the environmental considerations mentioned above. Starting in 2030,
HVE level 3 certification will be compulsory for all chateaux and the Alliance is considering
incorporating additional requirements to respond to increased societal demand for sustainability.
As Mathieu stresses: “The Alliance’s purpose is to improve, defend and promote the
interests of Crus Bourgeois du Médoc winegrowers”. The Alliance’s vice chair, Armelle Cruse
adds: “The classification compels all properties to take stock of their ambitions. For a long
time, we have said, “You are not born a Cru Bourgeois, you become one””. With a narrower
classification now its focus, the Alliance is advocating for “a quality resource that must now
secure greater awareness”.
CAN PROPERTIES DISPENSE WITH THE CLASSIFICATION?
Some producers have already left the Cru Bourgois ‘family’. A case in point is François
Nony, who explains: “Even in these challenging times, our Caronne Ste Gemme is still one
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BORDEAUX
RANKING
of the best-selling wines in its category, despite
the fact that it hasn’t been a Cru Bourgeois since
2011. Conversely, Château Labat is a Cru Bourgeois
Supérieur until the 2021 vintage included and has
in no way benefited from its ranking. For the past
18 months, the economic crisis has meant that sales
are the mark of a successful strategy at an individual
level and not, unfortunately, membership of
a group”.
His opinion is not shared by Jianqi Wu, deputy
managing director at Château Rousseau de Sipian,
whose wine has been classified as a Cru Bourgeois
since 2008. He explains: “The Cru Bourgeois statement
is a major advantage in international markets,
particularly in China which is where we export most
of our wines. The brand guarantees a high level of
quality for our wines”.
WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD
FOR CRUS BOURGEOIS?
If the Alliance is to uphold its credibility and the
appeal of its brand, it has to navigate a number of
challenges, including stricter eligibility criteria, the
controversy surrounding the previous classifications
and the negative climate weighing down on
the 2025 classification. Whilst some producers are
questioning its usefulness, Armelle Cruse – who is
not only the Alliance’s vice chair but also the owner
of Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel Château du Taillan
– disputes this: “The Alliance offers a guarantee of
quality and credibility in the domestic and international
marketplace”. Regarding the confirmed
withdrawal of a certain number of properties, she
seeks to reassure: “There is a sufficient number of us
for our group to be meaningful. And in a challenging
environment where our wines increasingly need to
secure visibility, the Alliance provides valuable distribution
support”.
Jennifer Mathieu is fully aware that the future
of Crus Bourgeois will depend on the Alliance’s
ability to adapt to new requirements but also retain
membership. She concludes: “We have ambitious
communications plans for 2025”. Watch this space…
THE ALLIANCE’S VICE CHAIR, ARMELLE CRUSE, ALSO OWNS CHÂTEAU
DU TAILLAN
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79

HUNGARY – A NEW, OLD WORLD
WINE COUNTRY
BY ÁGNES NÉMETH
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY
OF THE WINERIES
A small country with great pride, Hungary is home to 22 wine regions and
more than 200 grape varieties. While domestic consumption has significantly
dropped over the past two decades, producers are optimistic and seeking out
new markets. Seasoned wine connoisseurs will undoubtedly find exciting
wines by Hungarian winemakers, whether they are looking for indigenous
rarities or outstanding examples of international varieties.
THE GATEWAY TO THE VILLÁNY WINE REGION
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HUNGARY
DISCOVERY
SABAR WINE HOUSE IN THE MAGICAL VOLCANIC WINE REGION OF BADACSONY
CRYING WHILE FEASTING
There is a saying about the way Hungarian people celebrate: we like crying even when we feast.
Gloomy Sunday is one of the most well-known Hungarian songs, though it has a rather bad
reputation: when it hit the radio stations of the world in 1933, there were rumours that several people
committed suicide when listening to the song. Though these rumours have never been proven, the
‘crying while feasting’ mentality is true, and looking at the statistics, we have reasons to despair.
In the latest OIV annual report, Hungary is listed among the major wine producing countries of
the world – though in the very last position (25th), with vineyards shrinking in size. In 2018 there
were 69,000 hectares under vine, but by 2023 the figure had dropped to just 61,000. In terms of
per capita consumption, Hungary no longer features in prime position: 20 years ago Hungarians
consumed around 30 litres / year, but this amount has decreased dramatically – in 2023 it stood at
no more than 17.5 litres. A recent comparative study was carried out by Professor Gergely Szolnoky
(University of Geisenheim) to find the causes of this sizeable decrease, and according to his research
the most significant reason is the loss of tradition of drinking wine in families. While in the past
several families would have a tiny vineyard and making wine at home was a common hobby – just
like growing vegetables in a kitchen garden – nowadays both customs have disappeared. Grapevine
trellises and vegetable plots have been replaced by manicured lawns, and with the loss of gardens,
everyday wine has also disappeared from family tables. Present-day wine consumption is more and
more the privilege of the well-heeled, though the segment is showing a promising increase.
GOD SAVE THE KING!
Hungarian wine exports show a slow but steady increase. Even during Covid there was some
growth: the amount of wine exported in 2020 was 13% more than in the previous year, and was
worth 112.7 million euros. In the aggregate (including bag-in-box and bulk wine), Slovakia is the
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HUNGARY
DISCOVERY
CABERNET FRANC HAS ITS OWN APPELLATION IN VILLÁNY CALLED VILLÁNYI FRANC
LÉGENDES
leading importer country, but for bottled wines,
the United Kingdom imports the most, followed
by Slovakia’s neighbour, the Czech Republic, then
Germany and Poland. These are the most important
markets for Hungarian wines, accounting for
64% of total exports (with the UK alone representing
18%). The top five are followed by China, the USA,
Spain, France and Austria. Poland is only 5th in the
ranking and yet it has a special importance, since the
two countries have many common roots – the Polish
and Hungarians are said to be ‘two good friends’. In
Poland, wine consumption still lags behind beer and
spirits, but with wine becoming trendier, Hungary
will have more market potential there. In the large
UK market, several campaigns are helping to increase
sales, promoting Furmint, the flagship white variety
and also new ways of pairing food and Tokaji Aszú,
Hungary’s noble sweet wine.
22 WINE REGIONS, 6 BROADER REGIONS
HARSLEVELU GRAPES IN THE TOKAJ REGION
LÉGENDES
This small country covering less than 100,000 square
kilometres (93,030) has a population of 9.6 million
people. Hungary is smaller than Iceland, and more or
less the same size as Portugal, and just like Portugal,
there are probably too many wine regions – especially
for the size. However, both countries group
wine regions into larger regions to make the system
clearer. Contacting a representative of the official
wine marketing board of Hungary is challenging,
mainly because the authorities change far too often,
and occasionally duties are distributed among several
bodies, ministries and offices. As regards promoting
the six broader regions, most of the official marketing
representatives agree and this results in a better
understanding of the diverse world of Hungarian
wines. And undoubtedly, this diverse, colourful wine
scene is worth discovering. Also, wine travellers have
an easy job. Should they arrive by plane in the capital
or by car across the borders, they can visit cellars and
taste wines within less than an hour. Even the capital
boasts its own vineyards – in Budapest wine connoisseurs
can take a tram, and after a quick ride they can
enjoy still and sparkling wines in Budafok. Here is a
short introduction to the six broader wine regions.
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BEAUTIFUL VIEWS OUT
OVER LAKE BALATON
AND ITS VINEYARDS ON
BADACSONY HILL
“THE WINE OF KINGS, AND THE KING OF WINES”
Even though Tokaj is one of the 22 wine regions, due to its significance, it is one of the six broader wine
regions as well. Tokaj is like the footballer Puskás or the dish 'gulyás', it rings a bell when foreigners are
asked about it. The sweet wines of Tokaj have been exported for centuries, and their famous moniker comes
from Louis XIV, the 'Sun King', who was a devoted admirer of the rich, luscious Tokaji Aszú wines.
“The wine of kings, and the king of wines” is still quoted frequently, though the 21st century has brought
the dry wines of Tokaj into the limelight. Decreasing sweet wine sales around the world has led to the use
of the precious terroir of Tokaj for producing outstanding single vineyard wines mainly from Furmint
and Hárslevelű white grapes. As the head sommelier of a top London restaurant said, Furmint has an
answer for every guest’s needs. It has the potential to produce fresh, easy-drinking young wines; precise,
terroir-driven, mature single vineyard wines; bottle-aged sparkling wines; and of course late harvest
and Aszú wines. Tokaj lies on the far-eastern end of a large volcanic range spanning the entire country,
where the soil is rich in rhyolite, andesite tuff and loess. The climate is continental with cold winters and
hot summers, plus the long, sunny and foggy autumns let botrytis spread through the vineyards – and
thus the botrytised berries can be transformed into one of the miracles of the wine world, Tokaji Aszú.
THE 100-POINT-WINEMAKER
The pioneer of dry wines in Tokaj is István Szepsy, a true icon. He was followed by all the quality producers
and now each estate has several dry wines. Holdvölgy, Sauska, Zsirai, Balassa, Gizella are just some
of the most notable wineries. Foreign investment helped raise recognition of Tokaj with estates like
Oremus (owned by Vega Sicilia), Royal Tokaj (co-owned by Hugh Johnson) and Disznókő (AXA Millésime
group). Grand Tokaj is the only state-owned winery in Hungary (founded in 1948). It is the largest
winery with a total of 66 hectares, accounting for 35% of the region’s total. The company also purchases
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HUNGARY
DISCOVERY
grapes from over 1,200 small producers across some 1,050 hectares of land. The wines are made
under the supervision of Károly Áts – winner of the ‘Winemaker of the Year’ title in 2012. Károly
Áts is a world- famous winemaker, and is often dubbed ‘The 100-point-Karcsi Áts’, because he
made an exceptional Tokaji Esszencia 1999 at Hugh Johnson’s Royal Tokaji winery. The result
is legendary – America’s Wine & Spirits magazine awarded 100 points for the first time in its
history. Then he received 100 points from Robert Parker for another Tokaji Esszencia (2007).
He has been head winemaker at Grand Tokaj since 2013, and with him a new era began at the
largest winery in the Tokaj wine region, with a new spirit and new impetus.
KUNSÁG, AND THE FIRST FEMALE WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR
The Kunság, Csongrád and Hajós–Baja wine regions are grouped in the broader Duna wine
region, situated on the Great Hungarian Plain east of the river Danube. Csongrád is the lesser
known of the three, mainly with small cellars, many of which do not even bottle their wines.
Hajós–Baja is home to the spectacular ‘cellar village’ of Hajós, a must-visit spot with several
artisan winemakers. Koch Winery is the leading estate managed by Csaba Koch, the creator
of the ‘happy grape’ concept. Kunság is the largest wine region in Hungary, with mainly
sandy soils, aromatic grapes like Irsai Olivér and Cserszegi Fűszeres, and the unmissable
Frittmann Winery.
Gál Winery is another recommended producer led by Éva Gálné Dignisz, who was the first
female winemaker to receive the prestigious Winemaker of the Year award in 2013. Though
the estate is part of the Kunság wine region, it is located in its far western corner, on the island
of Csepel in the river Danube, just 25 kilometres from Budapest. Éva, the family estate’s winemaker,
met her husband – passionate viticulturist Csaba Gál – at university. The adorable
couple welcome thirsty wine travellers with warm hospitality and hearty platters of homemade
meat products and locally grown vegetables. The estate is famous for its crisp rosé wines,
but its fresh white wines from aromatic grapes are also significant.
ÉVA GÁLNÉ DIGNISZ, HUNGARY’S FIRST FEMALEWINEMAKER OF THE YEAR
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HUNGARY
DISCOVERY
EGER, THE TOP DESTINATION AMONG
WINE TRAVELLERS
THE GIANT GRAND TOKAJ BOTTLE IN THE VILLAGE OF SZEGI
The broad North-Pannon wine region includes the
Mátra, Bükk and Eger wine regions. Mátra is the
largest mountainous region with volcanic soil and
high-elevation vineyards producing aromatic and
some serious barrel-aged whites and increasingly
exciting, fruit-driven red wines. Dubicz Vineyard
and Winery, Dominium Winery and Centurio are
some of the names to remember. Bükk is a region
that is less known worldwide, and also in Hungary,
but there are several ambitious winemakers here
ready to break through. Zenit is an indigenous grape
they consider their flagship cultivar. Among winemakers
to watch are Roland Barta, Zsolt Sándor and
Roland Hajdú. Eger is the most popular wine destination
for domestic wine tourists. The historic town
is well known for its red blend called Egri Bikavér (also
known as Bull's Blood) and the white blend called Egri
Csillag (Star of Eger) is also up-and-coming. Many of
the estates have some tourist attractions as well, for
example Gál Tibor Winery serves meals at its Fúzió
restaurant, Kovács Nimród Winery offers a range of
wine cellar experiences and Tóth Ferenc Winery has
just opened its wine hotel near the Castle of Eger.
THE ESTATE BUILDING OF THE ICONIC A. GERE WINERY IN VILLÁNY
PANNONHALMA, A REGION TO WATCH
The large Upper Pannon wine region with a cooler
climate includes Sopron, Pannonhalma, Mór,
Neszmély and Etyek–Buda. Sopron, on the western
border, shares the same passion for Kékfrankos
/ Blaufranskish as Austria. Etyek is the Budapest
vineyard with more and more sparkling wines. Mór
is home to the indigenous Ezerjó grape. Neszmély
is the land of aromatic white wines, and Pannonhalma
produces outstanding wines from Rhine
Riesling – and also an increasing number of incredible
red wines. Pannonhalma is one of the smallest
of the 22 wine regions, and should undoubtedly be
on the radar of anyone keen to discover gems before
anyone else. Babarczi Vineyard and Winery is a family
property helmed by second-generation László and
Zsuzsanna Babarczi. During their father's era, the
focus was on bulk wine, but realising the potential
of their land, the young generation have decided to
concentrate on quality wines – and successfully so.
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HUNGARY
DISCOVERY
Their pure, crisp, balanced white wines – Sauvignon
Blanc, Irsai Olivér, Rhine Riesling – paved the way for
novel reds in recent vintages, including Marianum,
a multi award winning varietal Cabernet Franc. The
winery offers a whole range of wine tourist attractions
from cellar visits to fashion shows where designer
clothes are paired with wines.
ZSUZSANNA BABARCZI, THE MANAGER OF THE FAMILY WINERY
GÁBOR ÁDÁM, THE OWNER OF SABAR WINE HOUSE WITH A GASTRO MAP OF BALATON
BALATON, THE HOME OF OLASZRIZLING
The largest lake in Central Europe, Balaton is
surrounded by six regions: Somló, Badacsony, Balaton
Uplands, Zala, Balatonfüred–Csopak and Balatonboglár.
Olaszrizling (also known as Grasevina or
Welschriesling) is the most widely planted grape in
Balaton, and BalatonBor (BalatonWine) is a crisp,
fresh communal wine made from this variety by many
wineries around the lake.
Somló is the smallest of the 22 regions with volcanic
soil, distinctive character, and Juhfark vineyards, a
white grape only grown here. The other most important
and most volcanic region is Badacsony with its
iconic mountains and the exclusive indigenous grape
Kéknyelű – it is a rare variety which needs another
grape planted nearby to facilitate pollination. Sabar
Wine House is an example of an important trend of
Hungary where several businessmen are trying their
fortune (and spending one) in winemaking. Gábor
Ádám left his home in Budapest and moved to Sabar
hill in the Badacsony wine region. His accountancy
duties have been replaced by the everyday tasks of
a winery, and with his winemaker, Bálint Földi, he
has made the ‘small hill the hill of great wines’ with
his stunning Olaszrizling, Kéknyelű and Rhine
Riesling wines. His enthusiasm is tangible and he
has hundreds of like-minded followers, who visit his
blues festivals, wine trail experiences and tastings. As
he says, he created ‘Sabarism’, a community sharing
the same passion.
VILLÁNY, THE NEW HOME
OF CABERNET FRANC
The broad Pannon wine region includes Pécs, Tolna,
Szekszárd and Villány. Among the six broader wine
regions this is the most red-wine-focused part of
Hungary. The city of Pécs boasts Cirfandli, a local
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HUNGARY
DISCOVERY
MÓNIKA DEBRECZENI AND SÁNDOR TÓTH, THE ESTATE DIRECTOR AND WINEMAKER AT VYLYAN
grape; Tolna is a versatile region with the Tűzkő Estate owned by Tuscany’s Antinori and Mazzei families;
and Szekszárd is the home of the ‘other’ Bull's Blood, the Szekszárdi Bikavér – it is also the epicentre for
wines made from the thin-skinned, spicy black Kadarka grape. Villány, the southernmost wine region
in Hungary has a Mediterranean climate – the only one out of the 22 – and it is the home of our most
prestigious red wines. Cabernet Franc has a special importance: since the renowned wine writer Michael
Broadbent visited Villány and said “Cabernet Franc has found its new home in Villány”, the region has
placed special emphasis on the variety. A. Gere Winery is one of the icon estates in Villány and a true
pioneer along with Bock and Tiffán wineries. After the collapse of the Communist regime, Attila Gere
and his fellow winemakers went to see the world and learn from the most highly regarded estates in
Europe to start Hungarian winemaking again, almost from scratch, after the mass production of the
Soviet era. A. Gere Winery grows its vineyards organically with indigenous grapes like Kékfrankos and
the rare Fekete Járdovány. Its best known wines, though, are Solus (made from Merlot) and Kopar, a
Bordeaux blend. This glamorous estate also boasts a wine hotel and a restaurant.
Vylyan Vineyard and Winery is the second largest estate in Villány after Teleki (Csányi Winery), and it
is all about art and elegance. The estate’s first international success was a Decanter Trophy for its Pinot
Noir, but now, due to global warming, Pinot Noir has been replaced by other varieties. Csóka is a rarity
“resurrected from extinction”, while Kékfrankos is a grape with infinite potential according to Mónika
Debreczeni, the estate’s director. Her claims certainly seem to be founded: the winery’s Kékfrankos was
selected as the best Kékfrankos at the latest VinAgora international wine competition. The estate’s labels
are designed by an artist, inspired by poets and novelists, who themselves were inspired by Vylyan wines.
It may sound slightly complicated, but Vylyan likes things in a more sophisticated way...
The wines reviewed feature at the end of this issue
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87

CHILE, OR HOW ‘CRAZY GEOGRAPHY’
PRODUCES DIVERSE WINES
BY MAURICIO LLAVER
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY
OF THE ESTATES
Due to its variety of climates, the influence of its valleys and the proximity of
the Pacific Ocean, Chile has the ability to grow a wide range of varietals. Not
only has it been doing so for two centuries, but now climate change is opening
up the possibility of exploring new soils for its wines.
CASA SILVA’S VINEYARDS ARE A METAPHOR FOR CHILEAN GEOGRAPHY: THEY STRETCH FROM THE ANDES MOUNTAINS TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN
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DISCOVERY
VIÑA UNDURRAGA IS ONE OF CHILE’S MOST TRADITIONAL BRANDS AND BOASTS A STRONG PRESENCE
IN THE DOMESTIC MARKET
C
hilean writer Benjamín Subercaseaux defined his native land
as “the country of crazy geography”, and he couldn’t have
been more right. Chile is a strip of land 6,339 kilometres long,
sandwiched between the Andes Mountains and the Pacific Ocean.
It is home to arid, mountainous and maritime climates, ranging
from the Atacama Desert in the north to the vast, ecosystem-rich
Patagonia in the south.
This geography is an immense opportunity to grow a wide variety
of grapes and produce wines showing great diversity, and that is
what Chilean wineries have been doing since the 19th century.
Most of them were historically concentrated in the central part of
the country, but new geographical possibilities, climate change
and creative curiosity are extending the limits to the north and
south. Consequently, Chile aims to ramp up production of high
quality wines over the coming decades.
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89

RAFAEL URREJOLA,
HEAD WINEMAKER
AT VIÑA UNDURRAGA
VIÑA UNDURRAGA,
A LONG HISTORY AND AN EXTENSIVE RANGE
Viña Undurraga was founded in 1885 by Francisco Undurraga Vicuña and is
one of Chile’s longest-established wine companies. The winery and facilities
are located in the Maipo Valley, about 45 minutes from Santiago de Chile,
the country’s capital. It boasts a total of 1,200 hectares under vine and its
main varieties in terms of acreage are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and
Cabernet Sauvignon.
One of the outstanding features of Viña Undurraga is its strong positioning
in the domestic market – approximately 40% of its production reaches
Chilean consumers through various marketing channels. For tourists visiting
Chile, it is one of the most recognised brands in restaurants, supermarkets
and botillerías, the name by which the brand is popularly known in beverage
stores.
The remaining 60% of production is exported to more than 70 countries.
“One of our defining features is our broad range, which seeks to satisfy the
different needs of consumers. We have both varietals and blends, with a
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CHILE
DISCOVERY
predominance of blends. The main varietals we
use are Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Merlot,
Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon
Blanc”, explains Rafael Urrejola, head winemaker
at Viña Undurraga.
Viña Urrejola has received great recognition
worldwide, including that of ‘Red Winemaker
of the Year’ award from the International Wine
Challenge. The philosophy is to develop wines
that faithfully reflect their origin, and one of the
best examples is the T.H. Terroir Hunter line,
which has 19 labels across different geographical
origins, from the Limarí Valley to the Araucanía
region.
“We believe that Chile, given its geography, has a
broad potential for different varietals thanks to
its topography, with a variety of climates, which
is a great advantage over other producer countries”,
says Urrejola. But he stresses that “despite
having such an extensive range of possibilities,
Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon has gained
worldwide recognition for its quality and consistency
over time”.
Generally speaking, Viña Undurraga seeks to
produce fresh wines, where the potential of
site-expressiveness meshes with fruit and freshness
to maximise enjoyment, requiring careful
use of oak barrels for the maturation process. The
company also successfully develops wine tourism
and is the second most visited winery in Chile. It
receives about 60,000 tourists a year from across
the globe, though mainly from Brazil.
VIÑA UNDURRAGA WAS FOUNDED IN 1885 AND IS LOCATED IN THE MAIPO VALLEY
MARIO SILVA
VIÑA CASA SILVA, FRENCH
PIONEERS IN COLCHAGUA
Viña Casa Silva is located in the heart of the
Colchagua Valley and is in the hands of a family
of French winemakers who originally arrived in
Chile at the end of the 19th century. The ancestors
of the Silva family arrived bearing vines
from Bordeaux and established vineyards in
Angostura, where they settled in 1887. Today,
they are recognised as the pioneers of the
Colchagua Valley.
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91

MARIO PABLO SILVA,
THE CEO AND OWNER
OF CASA SILVA
BORDEAUX
TRAVEL
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CHILE
DISCOVERY
For many years, the vineyards were divided
among several owners, but in 1978, fourth-generation
family member Mario Silva gradually
began to buy them back and modernise the old
family winery. He restored the original vineyards
dating back to 1912, and became one of the most
sought-after producers of high quality bulk
wines. In early 1997 Mario Pablo Silva, Mario’s
eldest son, suggested to his father that they
create a new vision for the business: to bottle
their own wines under the family name.
“We stand out in the world for the quality of our
Carménère, in addition to other varieties such
as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot
Noir, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Romano, Sauvignon
Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Gris, Riesling,
Semillon, Viognier and Gewürztraminer”, says
Mario Pablo Silva, the CEO and current owner
of the company. “We can also consider white
varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc or Sauvignon
Gris as representative of Chile, which in our case
originate on the coasts of the Colchagua Valley,
in our Paredones vineyard, where the terroir is
rich in minerals and there is significant maritime
influence, as reflected in our whites”.
The high-end label is Altura (Carménère,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot), and in the
same range the company also produces Quinta
Generación Red Blend (Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carménère, Petit Verdot, Syrah) and Quinta
Generación White Blend (Chardonnay, Sauvignon
Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier).
Casa Silva’s vineyards are a metaphor for Chilean
geography: they stretch from the Andes to
the Pacific Ocean in the Colchagua Valley (Los
Lingues, Angostura, Lolol and Paredones). The
company also owns the Futrono vineyard in the
Los Ríos Region of Patagonia.
Silva explains that “both in Chile and in other
countries we have a strong market presence.
We export mainly to Brazil, the United States,
Canada, and other South American countries
such as Uruguay, Colombia and Peru. In Europe
our main destinations are Belgium, the Netherlands
and the United Kingdom, and in Asia we
have a presence in Japan and China”.
JUAN FRANCISCO CALDERÓN, THE HEAD WINEMAKER AT CASA SILVA
CASA SILVA, A PIONEER IN THE COLCHAGUA VALLEY SINCE 1887
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93

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DISCOVERY
VIÑA FALERNIA, CHILEAN WINES
INSPIRED BY ITALY
ALDO OLIVIER GRAMOLA AND GIORGIO FLESSATI, THE FOUNDERS OF VIÑA FALERNIA
FALERNIA VINEYARD, NEAR THE PUCLARO RESERVOIR
“My style and inspiration for winemaking comes
from the old continent”, insists Giorgio Flessati,
the general manager and winemaker at Viña
Falernia. With his cousin Aldo Olivier Gramola,
he founded the company in 1998. Originally from
Trentino, Italy, Flessati was one of the pioneers in
the production of sparkling wines in the region,
thanks to numerous trips he made to France from
an early age. There, he also specialised in growing
cool-climate Syrah in the Rhone Valley.
Viña Falernia is located in northern Chile, on the
edge of the Atacama Desert, in the Elqui River
Valley, Coquimbo Region. It is a valley with an
arid climate, but Gramola saw its potential to
produce high quality wines despite the apparent
hostility of the landscape, and brought Flessati on
board for the project.
Viña Falernia owns four vineyards, totalling
320 hectares. The first is called Fundo Titón and is
located 350 metres above sea level, 18 kilometres
from the Pacific Ocean. The second is situated
near the Puclaro Reservoir, around the Falernia
winery. The third is Pedregal, near the city of
Vicuña, and the fourth is Huanta, positioned at
an altitude of between 1,700 and 2,070 metres,
which is considered to be “one of the highest
vineyards in the world”.
According to Flessati, “in the Elqui Valley there is
a very good opportunity to play with different soil
and climate conditions, as well as different grape
varieties. I love to show the real character of the
terroir and along with it the Italian winemaking
style”. His winery produces Chardonnay, Pedro
Ximénez, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Carménère,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese,
Merlot, Syrah and Malbec, although according to
Flessati, “Syrah, Carménère and Pinot Noir truly
epitomise the company and the region”.
Some of the blends at the high-end of the range
are Falernia Gran Reserva (Carménère 60%
Syrah 40%); Number One (Cabernet Sauvignon
50% Carménère 25%, Syrah 25%) and the Pedro
Ximénez-Chardonnay blend (60%/40%). Like
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CHILE
DISCOVERY
many Chilean wineries, Viña Falernia is largely focused on export markets, where
it ships 98% of its wines. It exports to Brazil, Costa Rica, Panama, the United
States, Canada, Italy, England, Finland, Holland, Sweden, Japan, China, Hong
Kong, Korea, Australia, Switzerland and Germany.
As for the diversity that Chile offers, Flessati concludes that “without a doubt all the
varieties have different characteristics and qualities of their own, and all of them
have the ability to deliver unique personas that cannot be compared with one other”.
VIÑA DEL PEDREGAL,
A TRADITION SPANNING ALMOST TWO CENTURIES
Viña del Pedregal encapsulates a tradition spanning almost 200 years, which
began with the journey by Carlos Adolfo del Pedregal from Spain’s Asturias to
the Loncomilla Valley, in Chile’s Maule Region. The high quality of the region’s
soils and ideal weather conditions he found there in 1825 allowed del Pedregal
to become one of the forerunners in introducing French grape varieties from
Bordeaux, namely Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cot.
THE VARIABILITY OF SOIL AND CLIMATE CONTRIBUTES TO THE DIVERSITY AND
COMPLEXITY OF VIÑA DEL PEDREGAL’S FRUIT
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95

ROSARIO DOMÍNGUEZ,
THE WINEMAKER AT VIÑA
DEL PEDREGAL
BORDEAUX
TRAVEL
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LÉGENDES
VIÑA DEL PEDREGAL HAS BEEN IN THE HANDS OF THE SAME FAMILY FOR NINE
GENERATIONS SINCE CARLOS ADOLFO DEL PEDREGAL ARRIVED IN CHILE
THE LOS CERRILLOS VINEYARD BELONGING TO VIÑA DEL PEDREGAL,
LOCATED IN THE LONCOMILLA VALLEY, MAULE REGION
Boasting almost 200 years of history and nine generations of the family at the
company’s helm, its icon label is Since 1825, an assemblage of grapes from
outstanding parcels in a vineyard located in the Cerrillos area, where terroir
characters and experience accrued over almost two centuries stand out.
José Manuel del Pedregal, the company’s current CEO, says that “our vineyards
extend from the foot of the Andes Mountains in the east, along the banks of the
Loncomilla River, to near the coastal mountain range in the west. Because of
this layout, they have a variability of soil and climate that promotes diversity
and complexity in our wines”.
Viña del Pedregal has a total of 700 hectares planted with Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carménère, Syrah, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Carignan,
Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Viognier, among others. According to del
Pedregal, “Cabernet Sauvignon has historically been able to represent Chile
because of its exceptional quality, although Carménère has its own special place
because this is practically the last corner of the world where it is produced,
and with excellent results. We also have other lesser-known varieties, such as
Carignan from Maule, which are capable of illustrating an important part of
Chile’s winemaking history”.
With the input of winemaker Rosario Domínguez, Viña del Pedregal wines
are characterised by a fresh, elegant style that seeks to show sense of place,
with fruit as the protagonist and typicity as a guide. It exports 99% of its
wines, primarily to Japan, Korea, Brazil, the United States, the Netherlands
and China. “Our 200 years of history have allowed us to find our own path,
and we feel very comfortable with who we are today”, reflects José Manuel del
Pedregal. “Today, nine generations of the family have contributed with their
own talent and vision, learning that a legacy is kept alive only when it is kept
young at heart”.
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97

SLOVENIA: A LAND OF
ARTISAN WINE
BY OŽBEJ PETERLE
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES -
© ANJA ROJ - © ANDREJ TARFILA - © MICHAEL
MATTI - © MARCO COPPO - © PETRA MOLAN -
© VID ROTAR - © BOŠTJAN SELINŠEK
If you are reading this article, the chances are you are either a
wine professional or a wine enthusiast. However, let me ask you a
simple question: have you ever tried wine from Slovenia? Without
wishing to be disparaging, there is a high probability that you
haven’t. Well, that is about to change soon…
EDI SIMČIČ: JURE AND JAKOB SIMČIČ IN THEIR VINEYARD
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SLOVENIA
DISCOVERY
Slovenia, with its 20,256 square kilometers, is a small
Central European country. Its regional climate is
mainly defined by its proximity to the eastern end of
the Alps, the Adriatic Sea, the Pannonian Basin and the
Dinaric Mountain range.
Wine has been produced in Slovenia for more than two
millennia, playing a significant role in Slovenian identity
as well as in everyday life. With a total of less than
15,000 hectares under vine, like Switzerland or approximately
one third of Austria's vineyard area, between
80 and 90 million liters of wine are produced annually.
Seventy percent of this is white, and thirty percent red.
Although Slovenia is geographically small, the diversity of
soils and climate allows sixty different grape varieties to
be grown and a wide range of wine styles to be produced,
from sparkling and crisp whites to full-bodied reds.
There is a saying in Slovenia that you either produce
wine or you know someone who does, since most of the
26,000 grape growers also produce wine for domestic
consumption. It’s worth mentioning that 91% of all
grape growers own less than 1 hectare of vines. There
are 2,700 registered commercial wine producers.
Most notably, eleven wine cellars produce more than
500,000 liters of wine annually. Exports do not exceed ten
percent of production, with Germany, the USA, Croatia,
and Holland being the most important markets.
THE LEGENDARY ŠPIĆNIK VINEYARD
THE OLD VINE IN THE CITY OF MARIBOR IS THE OLDEST IN THE WORLD
THE SLOVENIAN WINE REGIONS
Slovenia is divided into three wine regions, and each
region is further divided into districts according to their
distinct location, topography and climate. Ninety percent
of area under vine is located on slopes and terraces. Irrigation
is virtually nonexistent, and the vast majority of
grapes are hand-picked.
THE PODRAVJE WINE REGION
In north-eastern Slovenia lies Podravje, named after the
river Drava. The region is divided into two wine districts
– Prekmurje and Štajerska. Prekmurje is located on
the border with Hungary and is the second smallest
wine district in Slovenia with 452 hectares under vine.
Geographically, it is already part of the Pannonian
Basin, however the majority of vineyards are planted
on hilly slopes. It is famous for its white wine produced
from Welschriesling and Chardonnay, and it offers one
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SLOVENIA
DISCOVERY
THE VINEYARDS OF BIZELJSKO IN THE POSAVJE WINE REGION
of the best examples of Blaufränkisch. Štajerska
Slovenija lies in the northeast and its name literally
means 'Slovenian Styria’. The other part of Styria
(Steiermark) lies in Austria. Štajerska Slovenija is the
biggest wine district with 5,473 hectares of vineyards.
The district gets its cooling influence from Alps in
the west. The cooler continental climate promotes
production of some of the most aromatic and
crisp Slovenian whites: Sauvignon Blanc, Furmint,
Riesling, Chardonnay, Welschriesling, Traminec and
Muscat. Some world-class sweet wine can be found in
Štajerska, although due to climate change, it has been
more than a decade since conditions were suitable for
the production of ice wine. Pinot noir is the flagship
red grape variety, but lately Blaufränkisch has also
been garnering greater recognition.
THE OLD VINE – STARA TRTA
LÉGENDES
The Štajerska district is home to one of the treasures
of world wine heritage. On the banks of the Drava
River in Slovenia's second-largest city, Maribor, is
a vine that was planted towards the end of the 16 th
century. According to the Guinness Book of Records,
it is the oldest vine in the world. Over its 450-year
history, it has survived everything from Turkish
rebellions and phylloxera to two World Wars and at
least five recorded fires. The vine still yields between
35 and 55 kilograms of grapes, and the wine is usually
reserved for ceremonial purposes.
A ten-minute drive from the old town of Maribor, on
the hills overlooking the city, you will find a family-run
winery: Joannes Protner, which has been producing
wine for more than 200 years. Over its 18 hectares, 6
of which are farmed organically, it primarily produces
crisp whites, with Riesling, Boštjan Protner's favorite
grape variety, in the spotlight. The Pinot noir and
skin-contact (orange) Natura are also amazing.
THE POSAVJE WINE REGION
Posavje, named after the Sava River, is the smallest
Slovenian wine region, covering 2,400 hectares.
Here, family winemaking runs deep in the
local culture. The average vineyard size is only
0.25 hectares, which means the majority of wine is
consumed domestically. The locals are always kind
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THE SMALLEST WINE
DISTRICT IN SLOVENIA
and open-hearted, so be sure not to miss the opportunity if they invite you in for a glass of wine
and some cold cuts at their ‘zidanica’, the wooden or stone-built cottages where they produce
wine. Posavje is divided into three wine districts.
THE BIZELJSKO-SREMIČ DISTRICT
The Bizeljsko-Sremič district (706 hectares) is named after its two most important wine villages.
The climate is sub-Pannonian continental, with cool winters and warm to hot summers. The most
common wines are the white and red blends known as Bizeljčan PTP (Recognized Traditional Wine
Style), made from local grape varieties. The red grape variety Blaufränkisch is showing increasing
promise. A specialty here is Rumeni Plavec, an indigenous white grape with high acidity that has
recently been used as a great component for sparkling wines, adding local character and distinction.
THE BELA KRAJINA DISTRICT
Bela Krajina is the country’s smallest wine district (315 hectares), located in southeastern Slovenia,
bordering Croatia. It is the warmest district in the Posavje wine region, benefiting from warm
southern winds off the Adriatic Sea. Bela Krajina produces varietal whites from Welschriesling,
Muscat, Sauvignon and Chardonnay, and continental reds from Blaufränkisch and Pinot Noir. You
can also find some world-class dessert wines in the region.
THE DOLENJSKA DISTRICT
The Dolenjska district (1,379 ha) is closer to the Alps than the Bizeljsko-Sremič and Bela Krajina
districts and is thus a cooler area. As the climate is cool continental, the best vineyards here are on
steep, south-facing sites. The low-alcohol, fresh, pale ruby Cviček PTP is by far the most popular wine
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SLOVENIA
DISCOVERY
EDI SIMIČ: JAKOB SIMČIČ HOLDING THE FAMOUS OPOKA SOIL
here, but it is primarily consumed locally. Recently,
wine producers have been focusing more on varietal
white wines. However, the most important development
is the production of sparkling wine, thanks to
the excellent conditions afforded by the cool climate.
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are usually the backbone
of the blend, but you should look for blends with local
grape varieties such as Žametna Črnina, Kraljevina,
or Rumeni Plavac. The best red wines in the district
are made from Blaufränkisch.
Among the rolling hills of Dolenjska lies the wine
producer Albiana, which produced its first vintage
in 2018. The winery crafts elegant, crisp whites from
Sylvaner and Welschriesling, as well as an oak-aged
line called Alto, with Chardonnay the stand-out label.
However, the main reason for visiting the winery is
its sparkling wine made from Chardonnay, Pinot
Noir, and the local Kraljevina grape variety. The Brut
Rosé, made from the indigenous Žametna Črnina, is
a must-try.
THE PRIMORSKA WINE REGION
Primorska is the coastal region in the southwest of
Slovenia. It is the warmest and largest wine region,
with 6,332 hectares of vineyards. Most of the area
enjoys a sub-Mediterranean climate. The region is
also known for the famous northerly Burja (Bora)
wind, which can occasionally reach speeds of over 150
kilometers per hour. Primorska is divided into four
wine districts: Goriška Brda, Kras, Slovenska Istra and
Vipavska Dolina.
THE VIPAVSKA DOLINA DISTRICT
Vipavska Dolina (Vipava Valley) is the largest district
in the Primorska region, covering 2,107 hectares. This
area is where sub-Mediterranean and continental
climates meet, resulting in frequent strong winds
and irregular heavy rainfall.
International grape varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot
Noir have a strong presence in the valley, offering
excellent examples and expressions of these famous
grapes. However, the main reason for visiting the
valley is its local and indigenous grape varieties. The
unique Zelen and elegant Pinela (white grapes) are
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DISCOVERY
grown exclusively here and represent the soul of the
valley. Rebula and Malvazija Istarska also showcase
their own characters through fresh, skin-contact or
oak-aged styles.
The best way to explore the Vipava Valley is by bicycle.
Its breathtaking landscape and proximity to wine
producers offer an unforgettable experience. Start
your cycling trip at the beginning of the valley with
the biodynamic producer Pasji Rep, named after
a famous vineyard mentioned as far back as the
17th century in the book ‘The Glory of the Duchy of
Carniola’ by Janez Vajkard Valvasor. Its white blend
Moser (Rebula, Welschriesling, Malvazija, and Zelen)
is one of the best examples of a local blend, and its
Pinot Noir will sweep you off your feet too.
A few kilometers further downhill, you'll reach the
village of Podraga. You might get lost in the lovely
village but be sure to visit the Mitja Lavrenčič –
Sutor winery. Mitja Lavrenčič is a producer known
for precision, elegance and high quality. The best
versions of international grape varieties in the valley,
such as Chardonnay, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc,
can be found in his cellar.
Next, head to Vipava, a picturesque town with a
recently renovated main square, to visit the Poljšak
winery. This family-run winery started producing
wine in 1830 and is now managed by the fifth generation.
Its Zelen and Pinela are very good, but the
Merlot Selekcija is one of the best in the region.
It's a small climb to Planina, but the hard work will
be greatly rewarded. The location of the biodynamic
producer Guerila offers some of the most ‘Instagrammable’
views over the Vipava Valley. However, the
biggest surprise awaits in the cellar. The Zelen and
Pinela have been benchmarks for years, and the
Rebula Extreme (skin contact) is intriguing. Additionally,
the winery produces full-bodied reds made
from Barbera and Cabernet Franc.
POLJŠAK: WINE AND MUSIC ARE CLOSELY CONNECTED IN THE POLJŠAK FAMILY
BRDA HOME OF REBULA
THE GORIŠKA BRDA DISTRICT
The Goriška Brda wine district has 1,824 hectares
of vineyards and lies on the border with Italy. The
vineyards, planted at elevations ranging from 80 to
400 meters above sea level, benefit from the influence
of the Adriatic Sea, which is just 20 kilometers away,
and the Alps, from where a cold breeze cools down the
vineyards on hot summer days. Layers of clay, marl,
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SLOVENIA
DISCOVERY
GUERILA: HARVESTING AT BIODYNAMIC PRODUCER GUERILA IN THE VIPAVA VALLEY
SLOVENIAN TUSCANY
limestone, and sandstone, known as flysch or 'opoka',
provide perfect drainage and promote freshness and
balanced acidity in the wines.
Goriška Brda, often called the Tuscany of Slovenia,
is the most prestigious wine district in the country
due to its high number of world-class producers.
Brda is also the home of Rebula, the grape focused
on the most. There are many iterations of this variety
– fresh, oaked, skin-contact, sparkling and passito-style
– and it is always delightful to discover them.
In recent years, Sauvignonasse (formerly Tokaj Friulano)
and Malvazija Istarska have been receiving more
attention. You'll also find many skin-contact whites
that could blow your mind. International grape varieties
such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot
Gris, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon have found a
home here as well. Particularly, the Chardonnays and
Merlot-based Bordeaux blends are outstanding.
If you are driving from the Soča Valley to Goriška
Brda, you'll pass through the little village of Kojsko,
where you'll find a family-run winery called Ferdinand
nearby. It showcases Rebula in all possible versions
– stainless steel, oak-aged (Epoca), skin-contact
(Brutus), and also sparkling with a special project
called Sinefinis. If you have lost faith in Pinot Gris due
to overproduction and its universal presence, well,
Ferdinand's Pinot Gris Epoca will reignite the spark.
The family-run winery Zanut is probably the westernmost
winery in Slovenia. With an average production
of 50,000 liters, it crafts an amazingly fresh style of
Sauvignonasse (which it calls Zakaj) and Pinot Gris, as
well as a charismatic Sauvignon Blanc, which shows
unique characters in Brda. However, the oak-aged line
is what the winery is most famous for, especially the
single vineyard Merlot Brjač and Jama (skin-contact
Sauvignonasse).
Located in the town of Dobrovo, Klet Brda is the
largest wine cellar in Slovenia, with an annual
production of more than 5 million liters. It operates
as a co-operative with 400 families of grape growers,
farming grapes across 1,000 hectares. Klet Brda is
the leading co-operative in Slovenia and serves as an
example of good practice. Numerous international
awards prove that it is on the right track. While the
Quercus and Bagueri lines have consistently offered
the best price-performance ratio, those eager to experience
the high-end offerings should visit the new
Baguer cellar located in Dobrovo Castle.
Almost on the border with Italy, in the village of
Vipolže, you will find the recently renovated wine
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SLOVENIA
DISCOVERY
cellar of Edi Simčič. Today, his son Aleks runs the
cellar, while his sons Jakob and Jure are already
making their mark. Consistency, high quality and
the pursuit of perfection define this cellar. Its single
vineyard wines, such as Rebula, Chardonnay, and
Sauvignon Blanc from the Fojana and Kozana
vineyards, are truly remarkable. If you want to
impress at a blind wine tasting of Grand Cru Classés
from Bordeaux, bring along its Merlot Kozana – you'll
understand why.
FERDINAND: JASMINA AND MATJAŽ ČETRTIČ ARE THE DRIVING FORCE BEHIND
THE FAMILY-RUN FERDINAND WINERY
THE KRAS DISTRICT
Kras (or Karst) is the smallest district in Primorska,
covering 564 hectares. It lies on the limestone plateau
between the Vipava Valley to the north and the Gulf of
Trieste to the southwest. The mountain range creates
a natural barrier toward the sea, resulting in a predominantly
continental climate in the Karst region. The
wind known as Burja (Bora) expresses its full force in
this part of Slovenia. Karst is renowned for its ‘terra
rossa’ soil, characterized by its bright red color and
rich iron oxide content, formed by the weathering of
limestone.
Teran PTP is the most important wine in the Karst
district. It is made from Refošk (the Refosco grape
variety), which covers three-quarters of vineyard
area. The wine has a deep ruby color, medium body,
low to medium alcohol, red fruit-driven characters
and crisp acidity. It makes the perfect match for the
local prosciutto. Among white grape varieties, the
native Vitovska Grganja has been attracting more
attention in recent years and is available in a variety
of styles.
The Vinakras Co-operative, located in Sežana, is the
largest producer in the district. Teran accounts for the
majority of production and comes in various forms,
from young, fruit-driven styles aged solely in stainless
steel to full-bodied, oak-aged wines. The cellar's
best pours include the single vineyard La Marie line,
which showcases the finest expression of what the
local Vitovska and Teran can offer.
VINAKRAS: TERAN AND PROSCIUTTO ARE THE PERFECT MATCH
IN THE KARST WINE DISTRICT
THE ISTRA DISTRICT
Slovenska Istra lies in the southwest of Slovenia, and
it is the only district with direct access to the sea.
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WHERE VINEYARDS
MEET THE SEA
Here, 1,837 hectares are planted to vines. Istria is the largest peninsula in the Adriatic Sea, shared
between Slovenia and Croatia. It is the warmest wine district in Slovenia and it has a Mediterranean
climate with hot summers and mild winters. The climate is particularly favorable for late-ripening
grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, which sometimes struggle to fully ripen in
other districts of Primorska. Two grape varieties are predominant in Slovenska Istra, with Refošk
(Refosco) reigning as ‘the king of Istra’, covering almost half of all vineyards, and Malvazija Istarska as
‘the queen’, cornering more than 30% of vineyard area. Refošk is typically bottled as a single variety,
although blending with international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah
is also common. In the heart of Slovenska Istra, in the lovely village of Korte, lies the biodynamic
producer Korenika & Moškon. With only 25 hectares of vineyards, the winery produces between
50,000 and 60,000 liters of wine. Its philosophy includes low intervention winemaking, indigenous
yeast, spontaneous fermentation and minimal use of sulfur. While the fresh line forms the backbone
of production, the Cru line – wines from single vineyards – show the best this terroir has to offer.
The Glavina family has played a pivotal role in the village of Šmarje since its establishment. Sixth-generation
Nika is now running the Santomas winery. It focuses primarily on full-bodied reds made
from the local Refošk variety, as well as blends with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. When
it first submitted its wines to be rated by Robert Parker, all of them received 90 or more points. Its
Grand Cuvee, made from the Refošk grape, received an impressive 95 points.
MORE THAN JUST WINE
Slovenia is a boutique wine country where artisan wines are produced. This is where tradition meets
innovation, and where passion and devotion to winemaking are passed down from generation to
generation. It is a small country showing versatility in terms of wine styles, grape varieties, and
philosophies of wine producers. Most producers are family-run operations with small-scale production,
dedication to precision and quality, and a strong commitment to sustainability.
To form your own opinions, visit picture-postcard Ljubljana with its vibrant wine bar scene. From
there, you can reach all three wine regions within an hour's drive – each in its own special way has
so much to offer. The quality of both wine and gastronomy has come along in leaps and bounds over
the last twenty years, pleasantly surprising anyone who visits this hidden gem. Ultimately, a visit to
Slovenia is not just about the wine; it is also about the picturesque, unspoilt scenery, the amazing
food, vibrant cities, historical sites and hospitable people. After all, wine is all about people.
106 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

ADEGA COOPERATIVA DO
CARTAXO, A PORTUGUESE
SUCCESS STORY
BY ISABELLE ESCANDE - PHOTOGRAPHS:
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES
Times have certainly changed since the Adega do Cartaxo co-operative winery,
which is celebrating its 70 th anniversary, was founded. From a business with
22 vine growers mainly selling its wines in bulk, it now boasts 168 partners
with revenue in the millions and wines that sell across the globe. We take a
look back over this Portuguese success story.
THE TEAM AT ADEGA DO CARTAXO
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PORTUGAL
FOCUS
FAUSTO SILVA, THE WINERY’S SALES DIRECTOR
The present-day Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo now covers 800 hectares located
in Tejo, one of Portugal’s oldest wine regions, 55 kilometres from Lisbon. The
vineyards are divided into two main areas, explains Pedro Gil, who has been the
company’s winemaker since 1998 – the ‘Campo’, home to alluvial soils offering good
drainage near the river Tejo where the climate is moderate, which is conducive to
producing white, rosé and sparkling wines; and the ‘Bairro’, a more complex area with
small vineyard blocks where the edaphoclimatic conditions are varied. In this zone
suitable for crafting red wines – which account for most of the winery’s output (80%
compared with 20% for the whites) – clay-limestone soils are the most widespread,
although there are small pockets of sandstone.
Twelve million kilos of grapes are harvested every year in this impressive vineyard
in the centre of Portugal. Pedro Gil’s technical staff are mindful to provide constant
support for the grape growers belonging to the co-operative, which produces ten
million litres of wine annually. Mirroring the company’s varietal range, its portfolio is
extensive, running the gamut from single-vineyard reds and single varietals to sweet
wines, late-harvest sparklings and limited editions. Native varieties like Fernão Pires
and Arinto (for the whites), Castelão and Trincadeira (for the reds), grow alongside
international cultivars like Chardonnay, Syrah and Merlot. Importantly, this noble
range of varieties did not happen by chance – around two decades ago, the co-operative
decided to replace the high-cropping hybrids that were ubiquitous in its vineyards
with varieties producing lower yields, but much higher quality.
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PORTUGAL
FOCUS
Due to their native vineyard sites, “our wines have
a very distinctive identity”, comments the co-operative’s
sales director, Fausto Silva. “We produce
balanced grapes boasting good acidity that yield
complex, fresh and harmonious wines on the palate
with a persistent finish. They are very pleasant to
drink and also offer excellent value for money”. It has
been twenty years or so since the winery first began
to renovate its facilities and since then it has invested
16 million euros in modernising them, at every stage
of production. New equipment and winemaking
procedures, for instance, have been introduced to
promote quality.
WINEMAKER PEDRO GIL
Today, “our white and rosé wines are all fermented
in open tanks”, explains Gil. “The fruit is completely
destemmed to avoid any bitterness, then delicately
crushed to release the juice and start maceration. The
grapes are then pressed using pneumatic presses,
with or without pre-fermentation skin contact
soaking, which allows us to control the colour of the
must and its flavours”. Next comes juice clarification
then fermentation at controlled temperatures
to prevent any deterioration and retain control over
optimal aroma development.
The red winemaking process also involves careful
monitoring of fermentation because the quality of
the wine is contingent upon controlling the temperature
of the tanks. Unlike the whites, however,
three different winemaking methods are used:
fermentation in mechanical tanks; classic soaking
with pumping over in closed tanks; and the Ganimede
method, a patented winemaking system that
leverages the natural potential of the carbon dioxide
released during alcoholic fermentation to optimise
consistent extraction of the compounds from the
pomace and craft a smoother wine.
WITH A CLIMATE THAT IS NEITHER TOO HOT NOR TOO OCEANIC,
THE CO-OPERATIVE’S GRAPES ARE PARTICULARLY WELL-BALANCED
The co-operative’s new approach, based on attention
to detail and modernisation of the facilities, is also
mirrored in the maturation phase of its wines. Over
the past few years, it has considerably ramped up
its investment in barrels – its cellar currently boasts
over 1,000 casks, virtually all of them made from
French oak.
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PORTUGAL
FOCUS
PEDRO GIL WAS RECENTLY VOTED 'WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR' AT THE VINHOS DO TEJO GALA EVENT
Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo focuses on quality, every step of the way. At international
level, in both traditional and emerging markets, it is now aiming to introduce
mid-range wines and high-end pours crafted in a modern, sophisticated style.
The winery has come a long way from its original production-driven strategy. Clearly,
its new growth strategy – based on quality, diversification and differentiation – is
reaping rewards as export sales have surged by 550% over the past fifteen years, stresses
Silva. “In 2008, exports accounted for approximately 7% of our turnover – now that has
risen to 26%”. It is a great example of the present-day success garnered by Portuguese
wines on the international stage. The co-operative’s wines can be found on several
continents and are exported primarily to France, Poland, China, the United States,
Brazil and Switzerland.
With its appealing image, dynamic PR strategy, site-expressive wines and wine
tourism activities, the co-operative has successfully established a place for itself, not
just for the quality of its wines but for its modern narrative and informed marketing
choices that align with current consumer demand and consumption patterns.
Its latest plans involve producing low-alcohol wines, organic bottlings and a high-end
label produced entirely from traditional regional grape varieties, explains Silva. Viewed
as one of the most significant producers in the Tejo region, the co-operative continues
along its successful path and judging by the countless medals it has been awarded
recently in international competitions, it is undeniably heading in the right direction.
110 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

MONTEFALCO SHINES THE
SPOTLIGHT ON UMBRIA
BY SYLVAIN PATARD
PHOTOGRAPHS: GILBERT & GAILLARD –
COURTESY OF ANTONELLI SAN MARCO
Some people constantly compare Umbria to Tuscany as both of them are
punctuated with hills dotted with cypress trees. Certainly, in terms of
landscapes, there are some similarities. But from a wine perspective, there
are countless differences and this province in the centre of Italy is far from
being a poor second to its prestigious neighbour. And that’s exactly what
you’re about to see!
ANTONELLI WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1881, MAKING IT ONE OF THE OLDEST WINERIES IN THE DOCG MONTEFALCO
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 111

OMERO WITH HIS WIFE SARAH MARI, THE EXPORT MANAGER,
IN FRONT OF THE RANGE OF WINES TASTED
CHIARA AND ALICE CESARINI IN THEIR VINEYARDS WITH SYLVAIN PATARD
I
n Umbria, many towns have kept their mediaeval appearances, with their walls and narrow doorways.
And at the top of the list is Montefalco. This fortified market town perched on its promontory overlooks
all of its namesake vineyards. It is both an anchorage point and a landmark, a beacon that lights up the
entire area with its aura. Montefalco is a landform, a climate – the Apennines are close by – and a grape
variety, Sagrantino. The varietal itself is like no other Italian cultivar, from Tuscany or any other region
for that matter. Sagrantino is a tannin beast which always remains civilised. It takes centre stage in its
Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG iteration, the star of local wines, requiring a minimum 30 months’
maturation including at least 12 in barrels. In its Montefalco Rosso or Montefalco Rosso Riserva versions,
it agrees to vie with Sangiovese for the limelight, and even with Merlot, which generally produces suppler,
earlier-drinking wines. We also tasted some Passito, the ultimate rendition of Sagrantino made from
grapes dried for at least two months to concentrate the sugars before fermentation.
The good news is that Umbria also produces beautifully crafted white wines, primarily from Trebbiano
Spoletino or Grechetto, which we also tried. But now the time has come to follow the routes through the
‘green heart of Italy’, the charming moniker for this agricultural province covered with vineyards and
olive groves.
The first stop in glorious sunshine is at Moretti Omero in Giano dell’Umbria. This young company (2001)
boasts 16 bearing hectares, entirely farmed organically, and its own olive oil. Its export and hospitality
manager, Sarah Mari, presented us a very consistent range of wines where one top Montefalco Sagrantino
clearly stood out – Vignalunga. This is a truly top flight, racy, intense wine with an oakiness that shows
great finesse.
Our second visit took us to the charming Cesarini sisters, Alice and Chiara, in Gualdo Cattaneo. The
ebullient siblings are full of innovative ideas and have completely redesigned their winery in order to steer
away from the use of synthetic chemicals in favour of intense manual work with the support of technology
– the aim is to leave nothing to chance, but to restore everything to nature. Comfortably seated on their
shady terrace, they introduced us to some stellar wines with the Montefalco Rosso, the Rosso Riserva and
the highly successful 2016 Passito as the high points of the range. All of them were expertly served with
food, setting a very pragmatic stage for the wines. To round off the experience, I cannot resist the pleasure
of telling you about the Rosso Bastardo, “the only bastard you can take home”, as their witty slogan says.
This rustic yet appealing IGT Umbria displays great character and is totally off the beaten track.
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ITALY
FOCUS
TENUTA DI SARAGANO,
ELEGANCE AND PANACHE
RICCARDO, GUGLIELMO HIS SON, IVAN AND HIS DAUGHTER
IN THE CELLARS AT TENUTA DI SARAGANO
To end the first day, we had a great visit punctuated
by an excellent dinner and tasting at Tenuta di Saragano
in Gualdo Cattaneo. Riccardo Pongelli-Benedettoni
and Ivan Vincareti are the partners at this
very charming property which boasts 15 hectares of
vines perched 500 metres above sea level. The vines
enjoy good air flow and exposure. They are planted
to high densities and cropped quite low. The result
is a winning combination as we were able to see in
our glasses throughout the meal. A great evening
was had, for the wines and the food – thank-you
Signora Pongelli! – along with the company. There
was a remarkable Trebbiano Spoletino and some
excellent Riserva and Sagrantino.
We began the second day with a must-visit winery
– Antonelli. One hundred and ninety hectares were
bought by the family in 1881, which makes this one
of the oldest wineries in the DOCG Montefalco.
In 2009, the vineyard was converted to organic.
The clayey, limestone-rich blocks have a range
of geological origins – some of them are deep
and others rockier, lending a variety of nuances
to the wines. The hills ringed by woodland enjoy
an ideal micro-climate for vineyards and olive
groves – there are over 50 hectares under vine and
ten hectares of olive trees. Basking in their south
and west-facing sites, the native grape varieties
Grechello and Trebbiano Spoletino for the whites
and Sangiovese and Sagrantino for the reds show
perfect site-expressiveness.
We had a wonderful tasting with a lunch designed
to pair with the wines curated by the company’s
manager Filippo Antonelli. The wines that deserve
a special mention are the white 2018 Trebium and
the magnum of 2009 Sagrantino, in absolute peak
condition.
The next visit was to the top-notch winery Lungarotti,
which I totally fell in love with four years ago. In
addition to its remarkable Montefalco Rosso Riserva
and Sagrantino – whose 2020 and 2019 vintages
once again fully lived up to expectations – I had the
pleasure of tasting the 2018 Vigna Monticchio again,
after first experiencing it at Prowein. As I told Chiara
that day, “this is only my opinion, but for me, this
is the best Italian wine in the world”. I won’t bend
the rules any more by not talking about Montefalco
FILIPPO ANTONELLI TOOK US ON A TOUR OF THE COMPANY’S CELLAR
CHIARA LUNGAROTTI AND SYLVAIN PATARD IN THE WINERY’S VINEYARDS
IN TURRITA, NEAR MONTEFALCO
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113

A SUBLIME WINE TASTING
WITH THE MANCINI FAMILY
AT THEIR TERRE DI SAN
FELICE WINERY
GIANLUCA PIERNERA ON THE TERRACE
OVERLOOKING HIS 3.5 HECTARES OF VINES
MATTEO MAZZONI AND SYLVAIN PATARD AFTER A TOP-FLIGHT TASTING AT
PERTICAÏA IN FRONT OF THE PLOUGH WHICH THE WINERY IS NAMED AFTER
– suffice it to say that this is a Torgiano Rosso Riserva, and it is always a sheer moment of pleasure!
Cantina Ninni is a young company – its first wine was produced in 2012 – located in Spoleto at an elevation
of 350 metres. Gianluca Piernera welcomed us, his impish smile and proud look in his eyes conveying his
sense of achievement and his respected belief in his vines. In his boutique vineyard – just 3.5 hectares in
size – the clay-dominant soils are home to natural grass cover and no weedkillers or fertilisation are used.
The vines are given a helping hand during the growth phase with natural products made from algae extracts
– there is no systemic spraying with pesticides. The organic wines – most of them white – display very
pure profiles. There is the excellent 2020 Trebbiano Spoletino and the 2021 Misluli labelled IGT Umbria.
Our next stop is in Castel Ritaldi at Terre di San Felice. This is another boutique vineyard covering just 3.5
hectares and is the joint venture of Carlo and Douchanka Mancini. The whites are refreshing and whet
the appetite, but the reds in particular draw your attention. They are mouth-caressing, full and aromatic,
combining density and finesse. The 2019 Sagrantino – a top vintage – deserves a special mention and
offers an extra touch of gorgeous flavours. This is a prime winery that should definitely be on anyone’s
tour itinerary.
PERTICAÏA AND ITS STRONG REGIONAL BOND
Perticaïa welcomed us in Casale, which is virtually at the foot of Montefalco. Matteo Mazzoni took us on
a tour of the property which belongs to the Becca family – these entrepreneurial expatriates were keen
to re-establish a connection with their home region. The bond is even reflected in the name which in
the ancient Umbrian language means ‘plough’, symbolising the deep-rooted links between man and the
land. The wines are of an excellent standard, particularly the red 2019 Montefalco Rosso Riserva and 2019
Sagrantino. These structured, full, elegant wines deliver very smooth tannins.
Back now to the foot of the ramparts of Montefalco to meet up with an old acquaintance – Colle Ciocco.
Silvia Spaccheti is gradually taking over from her dad Eliseo who still likes to greet visitors and introduce
them to his range of wines made from the 12-hectare vineyard, including 3 hectares of white varieties,
located in Montefalco. The range is extremely consistent in both colours though we had a slight preference
for the 2018 Sagrantino which is currently maturing with its very charming chocolate and liquorice
aromas. It is always a pleasure to visit this very endearing family.
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ITALY
FOCUS
The next stop in the north-east is at Benedetti &
Grigi where the winemaker Matteo Basili welcomed
us. This large property with 70 hectares of bearing
vines pulls out all the stops to ensure things are
done properly – grass cover is used between the
vines and grasses and legumes are sown to promote
biodiversity; no chemical herbicides are used and
plant protection products and fertilisers are kept to
a minimum. Inevitably, healthy plants and grapes
produce quality wines. A tasting reveals energetic,
refreshing whites and remarkable quality reds,
particularly the 2017 Sagrantino Dioniso which
shows great complexity.
It’s due south next for what, unfortunately, is the
last stop on our tour – Tenuta Alzatura, owned by
the Cecchi family who have been working in wine
for 130 years and invested here at the end of the
1990s. The family immediately identified the local
quality factors – the ‘sacred union’ of the Sagrantino
grape variety and this prime region; the unique
character of local wines; and the social and cultural
rooting of winegrowing in the area. In the glass,
the whites are of a very good standard and the reds
are high-end, including the 2015 Sagrantino and
the 2010, a notch above, which is enhanced by its
tertiary aromas of forest floor and mushroom. The
tasting was punctuated by a small selection of food
paired with the wines which would have convinced
even the most reluctant visitors.
SILVIA AND EISEO SPACCHETI WITH SANDRA SIRVENTE AFTER OUR TASTING
MATTEO BASILI MAKES WINES FROM THE 70 HECTARES OF BEARING
VINEYARDS AT BENEDETTI & GRIGI
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY
Unfortunately, the time has come to leave this
enchanting region which is not only home to
vineyards but to some real architectural and
historic treasures. This Italian province is not very
well-known – or at least by wine enthusiasts – and
my best advice to you is quite simply to go see
for yourself! Obviously, you can read our tasting
comments at https://www.gilbertgaillard.com/
en - you will already have realised that there are
countless good wines in the Montefalco region. But
if you add the incomparable pleasure of the journey
and discovering the region, your senses will experience
all the sensations that cannot be felt remotely.
And on top of this, you get the light, the blue
skies of Italy and the legendary cheerfulness of the
local people!
A MAGNIFICENT TASTING AT TENUTA ALZATURA HOSTED
BY ROSALBA PEPPE AND ALESSANDRO MARIANI
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115

CHRIS HEMSWORTH: “FOR ME, WINE
IS SYNONYMOUS WITH TIME SHARED
WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS”
BY FRANK ROUSSEAU,
OUR CORRESPONDENT IN LOS ANGELES
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
He made a name for himself as the hammer-wielding super
hero in the ‘Thor’ saga, or more recently by firing a machine
gun all over the place in ‘Mad Max Furiosa’. In real life, the
Australian film star seems to enjoy wielding a cork screw,
using it inevitably to uncork the amazing wines from the
Barossa Valley. It’s all about keeping it local!
How did you first become familiar with wine?
Before meeting my wife (Ed. the actress Elsa Pataky), who was
born in Spain, like most Australians I only drank beer. And then
one day Elsa told me this could not go on. She felt I needed to
educate my palate and that I should drink slightly more noble, or
even sophisticated drinks! Translation – wine! My wife is the one
who introduced me to it. As I was really wine illiterate, she started
by buying me some books. You know, like ‘Wine for Dummies’.
Also, the minute we got the chance we would go to exclusive bars
or good restaurants. I started off with a red Rioja. When the wine
waiter brought the bottle, he went back over the whole history
of this great wine. It was fascinating. I was already soaking in
his words!
You have travelled a lot, both promoting your films and personally.
Around the world, where is the place where you had your
best wine tasting experience?
At home in Australia, or to be more specific, in the Barossa Valley.
It’s one of the oldest wine regions in my country. It is located
around fifty kilometres north-east of Adelaide. Here, wine enthusiasts
from around the world enjoy our robust, fruity and elegant
wines. You get a warm welcome and unforgettable wine tourism
experiences. I would suggest you visit wineries like Penfolds,
Yalumba or Jacob’s Creek. In my opinion, the Barossa Valley is not
only an exceptional place for growing wines, it also symbolises the
excellence of Australian wine growing.
What are the local wines you recommend?
When we talk about the Barossa Valley, we immediately think of
Shiraz. It really is the region’s iconic grape variety. Shiraz wines
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STARS
& WINE
from the Barossa Valley are renowned for their depth, their richness and their complexity. They
often have aromas of black fruits, chocolate, spices and oak notes due to barrel ageing. They
are powerful, structured wines with remarkable ageability.
The region also produces outstanding Rieslings. These white wines are usually dry with aromas
of citrus fruits and white flowers and vibrant acidity. Barossa Riesling is enjoyed for its freshness
and its purity, and it is often compared to the finest Rieslings from Germany and Alsace.
We also have wines made from other grape varieties like Grenache, Mataro, Cabernet-Sauvignon
and Semillon.
How would describe the importance of wine in your everyday life?
For me, wine is synonymous with time shared with family and friends. It’s something that
brings people together, whether that’s a quiet dinner at home or a big party. I also value the
artistic aspect of winemaking and the hard work put into every bottle.
Do you have any advice for wine enthusiasts looking to expand their knowledge?
All I can say is, be inquisitive! Don’t restrict yourself to what you already know. Try wines from
different regions and grape varieties. And if you get the opportunity, visit vineyards and talk to
winegrowers. They often have fascinating stories and valuable knowledge to share.
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117

CONTACT
DETAILS
Languedoc - Pages 10-22
• Cellier des Demoiselles:
Tel. +33 4 68 44 02 73 - www.cellier-des-demoiselles.fr
• Château du Grand Caumont:
Tel. +33 4 68 27 10 82 - www.grandcaumont.com
• Château Pech-Latt:
Tel. +33 4 68 58 11 40 - www.pech-latt.com
• Domaine La Croix Belle:
Tel. +33 4 67 36 27 23 - www.croix-belle.com
• Sieur d’Arques:
Tel. +33 4 68 74 63 00 - www.sieurdarques.com
• Mas du Novi:
Tel. +33 4 67 24 07 32 - www.masdunovi.com
• Château du Donjon:
Tel. +33 4 68 77 18 33 - www.chateau-du-donjon.com
• Château Saint Jacques d’Albas:
Tel. +33 4 68 78 24 82 - www.chateaustjacques.com
• Château la Villatade:
Tel. +33 4 68 77 57 51 - www.villatade.fr
• Domaine de Belle Mare:
Tel. +33 4 67 43 17 68 - www.belle-mare.com
• Bergerie du Capucin:
Tel. +33 4 67 59 01 00 - www.bergerieducapucin.fr
• Domaine Les Grandes Costes:
Tel. +33 4 67 59 27 42 - www.grandes-costes.com
Champagne - Pages 24-33
• Champagne Patrick Boivin:
www.les3domaines-Épernay.com
• Champagne Anthony Betouzet:
www.champagne-ab.com
• Champagne Pierre Moncuit:
www.pierre-moncuit.fr
• Champagne Guy Charbaut:
www.champagne-guy-charbaut.com
• Champagne Canard-Duchêne:
www.canard-duchene.fr
• Champagne Jean Vesselle:
www.champagnejeanvesselle.com
• Champagne Devaux:
www.champagne-devaux.fr
Espagne - Pages 34-43
• Barahonda:
Tel. +34 968 71 86 96 - www.barahonda.com
• Bodega Cuatro Rayas:
Tel. +34 983 816 320 - https://cuatrorayas.es
• Bodegas Gallegas:
Tel. +34 988 384 200 - www.bodegasgallegas.com
• Hammeken Cellars:
Tel. 34 965 791 967 - hammekencellars.com
South Africa - Pages 44-53
• Krone:
Tel. +27 827 305 454 - https://krone.world/
• Rickety Bridge:
Tel. +27 21 876 2129 - https://ricketybridge.com
• Klein Roosboom:
Tel. +27 66 322 1564 - https://kleinroosboom.co.za
• Charles Fox:
Tel. +27824713444 - https://charlesfox.co.za
• Graham Beck: Tel. +27 (0)23 626 1214 -
https://grahambeck.com
• Haut Cabriere:
Tel. +27649281044 - https://cabriere.co.za
• KWV Laborie :
Tel. +27 21 807 3007/9 - https://kwv.co.za
• Pongrácz : Tel. +27 21 809 8280/1 -
https://www.pongracz.co.za/
Provence - Pages 54-63
• Domaine des Bergeries de Haute Provence :
Tel. +33 4 92 61 50 10 - www.domainedesbergeries.fr/
• Domaine de l’Olivette :
Tel. +33 4 94 98 58 85 - www.domaine-olivette.com
• Estandon Coopérative en Provence:
Tel. +33 4 94 37 21 00 - www.estandon.fr
• Château Margüi:
Tel. + 33 9 77 90 23 18 - www.chateaumargui.com
• La Bastide des Terres Blanches :
Tel. +33 7 89 87 54 06
• Château Paquette:
Tel. +33 4 94 40 87 90 - www.chateaupaquette.fr
• Vignobles Ghigo Domaine de Château Vert:
Tel. +33 4 94 93 60 02 - www.vignobles-ghigo.com
• Château Coussin:
Tel. + 33 4 42 61 20 00 - www.sumeire.com
• Château de Beaupré:
Tel. + 33 4 42 57 33 59 - www.beaupre.fr
Italy - Pages 64-73
• Dacastello:
Tel. +39 0173 509748 - www.dacastellovini.com
• The Wine People:
Tel. +39 0461 961010 - www.twpwines.com
• Cielo Terra Wines:
Tel. +39 0444 485211 - www.cieloterravini.com
• Torrevento:
Tel. +39 080 8980923 - www.torrevento.it
• Solo Roberto:
Tel. +39 0761 495086 - www.soloroberto.com
• Italian Wine Brands:
Tel. +39 02 30 516 516 - www.italianwinebrands.it
Bordeaux - Pages 74-79
• Château Rousseau de Sipian:
Tel. +33 5 56 41 54 92 - www.vin-du-medoc.fr
• Château Caronne Ste Gemme / Château Labat:
Tel. +33 5 57 87 56 81 - www.caronne-ste-gemme.com
• Alliance des Crus Bourgeois:
Tel. +33 5 56 79 04 11 - www.crus-bourgeois.com
• Château du Taillan:
Tel. +33 5 56 57 47 00 - www.chateaudutaillan.com
Hungary - Pages 80-87
• Grand Tokaj, Tokaj:
Tel. +36309531136 - www.grandtokaj.com
• Gál Winery, Kunság:
Tel. +36204832444 - www.galpinceszet.hu
• Sabar Wine House, Badacsony:
Tel. +36309846540 - www.sabar.hu
• Babarczi Vineyard and Winery, Pannonhalma:
Tel. +36304446929 - www.babarczipince.hu
• A. Gere Winery, Villány:
Tel. +36306202628 - www.gere.hu
• Vylyan Vineyard and Winery:
Tel. +36302496815 - www.vylyan.hu
Chile - Pages 88-97
• Viña Undurraga:
Tel. +56 9 64944781 - www.undurraga.cl
• Viña Casa Silva:
Tel. +56 9 68060417 - www.casasilva.cl
• Viña Falernia:
Tel. +56 9 94005982 - www.falernia.com
• Viña del Pedregal:
Tel. +56 9 97990022 - www.delpedregalwines.com
Slovenia - Pages 98-106
• Joannes Protner:
Tel. +386 41 654 305 - www.joannes.si
• Albiana: Tel. +386 31 652 343 - www.albiana.si
• Pasji rep: Tel. +386 40 423 282 - www.pasji-rep.si
• Sutor: Tel. +386 31 395 797 - www.sutor.si
• Poljšak: Tel. +386 41 441 001 - www.vinapoljsak.com
• Guerila: Tel. +386 41 616 091 - www.guerila.si
• Ferdinand: Tel. +386 41 510 636 - www.ferdinand.si
• Zanut: Tel. +386 05 395 94 94 - www.zanut.si
• Klet Brda: Tel. +386 05 331 01 41 - www.klet-brda.si
• Edi Simčič: Tel. +386 30 602 564 - www.edisimcic.si
• Vinakras: Tel. +386 05 73 13 444 - www.vinakras.si
• Korenika&Moškon: Tel. +386 41 607 465 -
www.korenikamoskon.si
• Santomas: Tel. +386 40 792 785 - www.santomas.si
Portugal - Pages 107-110
• Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo:
Tel. +351 243 770 987 - https://adegacartaxo.pt/en
Montefalco - Pages 111-115
• Moretti Omero:
Tel. +39 0742 90426 - http://www.morettiomero.it
• Cantina Cesarini Sartori (Rossobastardo):
Tel. +39 379 117 5439 -
https ://www.cesarinisartori.it/
• Tenuta di Saragano: Tel. +39 340 458 5356 -
http://www.tenutadisaragano.it
• Antonelli San Marco: Tel. +39 0742 379 158 -
http://www.antonellisanmarco.it
• Cantine Giorgio Lungarotti: Tel. +39 075 988 661 -
https://lungarotti.it/ita/montefalco-3/
• Cantina Ninni Spoleto: Tel. +39 335 545 0523 -
https://www.cantinaninnispoleto.com/
• Terre di San Felice:
Tel. +39 339 261 3776 - https://terredisanfelice.it/
• Perticaïa:
Tel. +39 0742 379014 - https://perticaia.it/en/home/
• Cantina Colle Ciocco - Agricola Spacchetti:
Tel. +39 0742 379859 - http://www.colleciocco.it
• Benedetti & Grigi: Tel. +39 075 8011560 -
http://www.benedettiegrigi.it/
• Tenuta Alzatura (Famiglia Cecchi):
Tel. +39 0742 399 435 -
https://www.tenuta-alzatura.it/
118 SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

PAGES 120 TO 130
TOP WINES
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
THE THIRD TASTING SESSION OF 2024 PROMISES TO BE TROUBLE-FREE
Our tastings have become increasingly eclectic, not only in terms of origins but also from a
style perspective. The traditional white, rosé, red and sparkling wines have long been joined by
orange wines, low-alcohol and alcohol-free wines and flavoured wines, not to mention drinks
that have enjoyed sustained success for several years now, like vermouth, beer, cider and gin.
This variety obviously mirrors market and consumer demand, and that can only be good news.
THE VINEYARDS AT KRONE IN TULBAGH ARE SURROUNDED BY STUNNING MOUNTAINS
THE BEST OF SUMMER 2024
Our selection, based solely on the comments and scores of our tasting panel as always, is presented on
pages 120 to 130. As is customary, we have chosen to present the wines by country (HUNGARY, ITALY,
SLOVENIA…) then by appellation for each region, with the name of the company or the chateau listed in
alphabetical and descending order depending on the scores. You will also find in this issue, our selection
of Champagne and Languedoc, a wide range of Provence rosés, Hungarian wines, Italian Pinot grigio,
remarkable Slovenian wines and an extensive array of sparkling South African wines labelled Cap Classique.
THE TASTING PANEL:
PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD
FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT - OLIVIER DELORME – GONZALO FERNANDEZ - MATTHIEU GAILLARD – GERALDINE SPENCER - JAMES TURNBULL
SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
119

PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_N°56_Mise en page 1 25/06/2024 13:32 Page
CHAMPAGNE
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
CHAMPAGNE GUY CHARBAUT
95/100
g BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 1ER CRU MEMORY
D Lovely light gold. Very open nose showing tones of
gingerbread, super ripe fruits and a subtle pastry touch.
The palate stays impressively fresh and delivers more of
the same chiselled aromas over substantial length. A
very fullling wine pairing with food. Price: € 60.30
CHAMPAGNE
To paraphrase Ernest Hemingway, you
could call Champagne “a moveable
feast”. In this report, we have taken
this literally, exploring the wine region
from the festive perspective of its wine
routes. You will find our selection of
winegrowers in the Montagne de Reims
area, along the hillsides of Epernay, in
the Côte des Blancs and the Côte des
Bar in Aube
CHAMPAGNE
CHAMPAGNE DEVAUX 93/100
CR D EXTRA BRUT ULTRA D : Very appealing
yellow-gold. Very charming, intense nose
recalling toast. The same seductive aromatics
dominate on the palate which also shows length.
This is a Champagne for food pairing with
shellfish.
http://www.champagne-devaux.fr Price: € 50.00
Champagne Devaux +33 3 25 38 30 65
CHAMPAGNE GUY CHARBAUT 93/100
CR D BRUT 1ER CRU 2012: Bright golden
colour. The delicate nose offers hints of pastry
and bread crust. Brighter fruit emerges in
the mouth, in a mellow style conferred by
age. Chiselled, elegant and lengthy finish. A
gastronomic cuvée.
http://www.champagne-guy-charbaut.com Price: € 33.10
Champagne Guy Charbaut +33 3 26 52 60 59
CHAMPAGNE JEAN VESSELLE 93/100
CONV D BRUT NATURE BLANC DE BLANCS
GRAND CRU BOUZY PUR B3 2015: Clear,
pale gold colour. Delicate nose of white fruit
and biscuit. On the palate, great delicacy, real
finesse of expression and remarkable length. An
accomplished vintage in top form.
http://www.champagnejeanvesselle.fr
Champagne Jean Vesselle +33 3 26 57 01 55
CHAMPAGNE CANARD-DUCHÊNE 92/100
D BRUT NATURE V 2012: Beautiful yellowgold.
Open nose showing fruit tones augmented
by pastry notes. The palate is very fresh right
from the attack with intense aromas in the same
appetising vein. A consummate Champagne for
sweetbreads.
http://www.canard-duchene.fr Price: € 75.00
Champagne Canard-Duchêne +33 3 26 61 11 60
CHAMPAGNE CHARLES COLLIN 92/100
CR D BRUT CUVÉE CHARLES : Very pretty
yellow-gold. Ripe fruit on the nose ushers in
a convincing, balanced and fruity palate with
a citrussy tone that adds a lot of drive. An
accomplished Champagne that works best with
food and pairs with fish.
http://www.champagne-devaux.fr Price: € 32.60
Champagne Devaux +33 3 25 38 30 65
PRESENTATION: Members of the Charbaut family
have been winegrowers from father to son for three
generations, and now from father to daughter for the
fourth generation. They have ensured the Champagne
house established in 1936 remains family-run so as to
perpetuate the prestige of their brand and quality of
their wines. Guy Charbaut’s son Xavier is now at the
company’s helm, with the support of his wife Nathalie
and their daughter Hélène, who has recently begun to
crat their wines. The company’s guiding principles are
epitomised by the ripe, articulate fruit aromatics and
clean, supple wines, some of which have spent over 160
months in its cellars.
Tel.: +33 3 26 52 60 59
E-mail: contact@champagne-guy-charbaut.com
Website: http://www.champagne-guy-charbaut.com
THE VINEYARDS AT MAISON GUY CHARBAUT ARE HOME TO THE THREE CHAMPAGNE VARIETIES.
120 SUMMER 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

CHAMPAGNE
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_N°56_Mise en page 1 27/06/2024 16:30 Page
CHAMPAGNE DEVAUX 92/100
ORG D BRUT COEUR DE NATURE - BIO
: Very pretty pink-gold. Delicate nose of super
ripe red berry fruits. The palate is fleshy and silky
with more of the same, very pure aromatics. This
is more of a food-friendly, chiselled Champagne
combining vinosity, elegance and length on the
palate.
http://www.champagne-devaux.fr Price: € 38.00
Champagne Devaux +33 3 25 38 30 65
CHAMPAGNE GUY CHARBAUT 92/100
CR D EXTRA BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS 1ER
CRU 2015: Delightful light gold colour. Delicate
nose combining notes of red berries with
biscuit tones. The mouth is rich, silky and very
expressive. The fruity notes linger a long while
on the finish. A racy Champagne for the table.
http://www.champagne-guy-charbaut.com Price: € 49.90
Champagne Guy Charbaut +33 3 26 52 60 59
CHAMPAGNE JEAN VESSELLE 92/100
CONV D BRUT NATURE BLANC DE
BLANCS GRAND CRU CHOUILLY PUR B2C
2015: Beautiful light gold colour. Expressive
nose of great purity with hints of ripe white
fruit. The mouth is equally seductive due to
its great maturity. Intense, persistent fruit in
perfect harmony with an ever-present sensation
of freshness.
http://www.champagnejeanvesselle.fr
Champagne Jean Vesselle +33 3 26 57 01 55
CHAMPAGNE CANARD-DUCHÊNE 91/100
D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRANDE
CUVÉE CHARLES VII : Glistening golden hue.
Delicate nose of dried fruits opening up after
airing. The palate is full and fleshy with very
pure aromatics. The finish is fresh, persistent
and harmonious. This is a Champagne showing
great breed.
http://www.canard-duchene.fr Price: € 45.00
Champagne Canard-Duchêne +33 3 26 61 11 60
CHAMPAGNE CANARD-DUCHÊNE 91/100
D BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS GRANDE CUVÉE
CHARLES VII : Appealing light gold. Delicate
nose of red berry fruits. The palate is racy and
reveals extremely precise aromatics supported
by creamy effervescence. A harmonious Blanc de
Noirs with nicely judged vinosity.
http://www.canard-duchene.fr Price: € 45.00
Champagne Canard-Duchêne +33 3 26 61 11 60
CHAMPAGNE CHARLES COLLIN 90/100
CR D BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS : Pale gold.
Very pure nose of red berry fruits. Beautiful
attack on the palate which is soft and fleshy with
more of the same precise, intense aromatics.
A very alluring Champagne with silky-soft,
persistent fruit.
http://www.champagne-devaux.fr Price: € 25.70
Champagne Devaux +33 3 25 38 30 65
CHAMPAGNE MARQUIS DE POMEREUIL 90/100
D BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS : Brilliant light
gold. Precise nose of red berry fruits, mainly
ripe cherry. Very perfumed, fleshy attack that
increases in intensity through to the finish.
A vinous Champagne showing distinctive,
persistent flavours. Works best with food.
http://www.champagne-devaux.fr Price: € 27.00
Champagne Devaux +33 3 25 38 30 65
CHAMPAGNE ANTHONY BETOUZET 89/100
CONV D TERRE DE GRÈS
https://www.champagne-ab.com/ Price: € 24.90
Champagne Anthony Betouzet
CHAMPAGNE PATRICK BOIVIN 89/100
CR D EXTRA BRUT LE CLOS 667 2011
https://champagne-patrickboivin.com/ Price: € 120.00
Champagne Patrick Boivin +33 9 65 33 76 29
CANARD-DUCHÊNE WELCOMES 10,000 VISITORS EACH YEAR.
CHAMPAGNE PATRICK BOIVIN
90/100
g BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 1ER CRU
D Beautiful clear yellow-gold. Ripe nose of white fruits
and dried fruits showing great freshness. The palate
reveals a consummate Champagne with very sot aromas
where the fruit is augmented by sweet spice notes. This is
a food-friendly Champagne for shellsh. Price: € 34
Champagne Boivin’s history began four generations
ago in the Premier Cru vineyards of Cumières near
Epernay and continued in 1978 when the Patrick Boivin
brand was founded. Marie-Madeleine, the granddaughter
of a winegrower, and Patrick, who grew up surrounded
by vineyards, partnered to shape their future together.
Their daughters now represent the new generation and
are rising to the challenge of broadening their
geographical horizons with new single-vineyard labels
imbued with a female touch!
The vineyards, aged around forty years old, cover 6
hectares of favourably exposed hillsides planted to 35%
Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 25% Pinot Noir.
These produce Champagnes where distinctive
minerality meshes with charming roundness. In
addition to this Premier Cru, discover the modern,
festive ‘Icône’ range, the fresh, mineral ‘Relets de nos
terroirs’ or the ‘Au l du temps’ label designed as an ode
to gastronomy. There’s also the unforgettable ‘Le Clos
667’, a very characterful single-vineyard offering.
Tel.: +33 3 26 56 25 06
E-mail: info@champagne-patrickboivin.com
Website: https://champagne-patrickboivin.com/
SUMMER 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
121

LANGUEDOC - CORBIÈRES
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
LANGUEDOC
We take a deep dive into the diversity
of Languedoc where you can go taste
wines by the winegrowers featured in
our road trip (pages 10 to 22). From
reds and whites to rosés, PGIs to AOPs
and from Pic Saint Loup right across to
the Corbières, discover what the region
does best, with very affordable price
tags.
LANGUEDOC
CORBIÈRES
CHÂTEAU PECH-LATT 90/100
ORG D GRAND VIN DU CHÂTEAU 2023:
Fine dark purple colour with purple reflections.
Pleasant nose of black fruit, redcurrant, fine
spices and a touch of garrigue. Well-crafted,
full-bodied and lively on the palate, with intense,
ardent southern aromas. A great success.
https://pech-latt.com/ Price: € 14.00
Château Pech-Latt +33 4 68 58 11 40
CHÂTEAU DU GRAND CAUMONT 88/100
CR D CUVÉE TRADITION 2023
http://www.grandcaumont.com Price: € 8.50
Château du Grand Caumont +33 4 68 27 10 82
CHÂTEAU DU GRAND CAUMONT 88/100
D CUVÉE TRADITION 2021
http://www.grandcaumont.com Price: € 8.50
Château du Grand Caumont +33 4 68 27 10 82
CÔTES DE THONGUE
DOMAINE LA CROIX BELLE 91/100
ORG D LE CHAMP DES LYS 2023
Beautiful, clear, pale yellow colour. Pleasant
nose combining notes of citrus and ripe fruit,
very inviting. On the palate, a very delicate
feel, breadth and ripe fruit. A velvety-textured
ensemble sure to complement roast meats.
http://www.croix-belle.com Price: € 11.90
Domaine La Croix Belle +33 4 67 36 27 23
DOMAINE LA CROIX BELLE 91/100
CONV D N°7 2020: Beautiful dark colour
with purple tints. Racy nose combining red fruit,
fine spices, tobacco, dried plants and discreet
oak. Ample, concentrated and powerful on the
palate, beginning to reveal superb complexity.
THIERRY THOMAS IN THE CELLAR AT MAS DU NOVI.
Saline, intense and persistent finish.
http://www.croix-belle.com Price: € 19.90
Domaine La Croix Belle +33 4 67 36 27 23
LANGUEDOC
CHÂTEAU LA VILLATADE 89/100
D SAKURA 2023
http://www.villatade.fr Price: € 12.00
Château la Villatade +33 4 68 77 57 51
LANGUEDOC GRÈS DE
MONTPELLIER
MAS DU NOVI 92/100
ORG D NOVI 2017: Fairly deep red with
garnet tints. Stewed nose with a mix of wild red
and black berries, aromatic plants, strong spices
and leather. Mature, easy-drinking palate where
great tannin intensity is supported by vibrant,
sun-ripened fruit. Ready to drink now.
http://www.masdunovi.com Price: € 25.00
Mas du Novi +33 4 67 24 07 32
MAS DU NOVI 91/100
ORG D PRESTIGI 2019: Fairly deep colour
tinged with ruby-brown. The nose is packed
with spices and jammy stone fruits. The palate
is brimming with fruit and spices, with heat and
tannins going hand in glove. Maturity, richness
and comfort. Full-flavoured cheeses are the
recommended pairing.
http://www.masdunovi.com Price: € 17.00
Mas du Novi +33 4 67 24 07 32
MINERVOIS
CHÂTEAU DU DONJON 90/100
D GRANDE TRADITION 2020: Bright,
young-looking red. Concentrated nose showing
tones of stone fruits. The palate is generous yet
still restrained and the fruit is augmented by
a pleasant peppery tone. A beautifully crafted
Minervois.
http://www.chateau-du-donjon.com Price: € 10.00
Château du Donjon +33 4 68 77 18 33
CHÂTEAU LA VILLATADE 90/100
D CÔTES NOIRES 2019: Deep, younglooking
red. Profound nose delivering a fusion
of ripe fruits, garrigue and a mineral touch.
Stellar entrance on the palate. A fine mouthfeel
and more of the same very precise aromatics are
coupled with a measure of fullness.
http://www.villatade.fr Price: € 18.00
Château la Villatade +33 4 68 77 57 51
122 SUMMER 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

LANGUEDOC - ST GUILHEM LE DÉSERT
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
LE PETIT ST JACQUES 90/100
ORG D VINTAGE 2022: Fairly deep colour
tinged with ruby. Nose of juicy red and black
berries with strong spice notes of pepper.
Powerful, full-bodied palate delivering lovely,
hallmark Mediterranean aromatic sensations
and mouth-coating tannins in this distinctive
Minervois.
http://www.chateaustjacques.com Price: € 8.50
Château Saint Jacques d’Albas +33 4 68 78 24 82
PAYS D’OC
CELLIER DES DEMOISELLES 88/100
D CALADOC 2023
http://www.cellier-des-demoiselles.fr Price: € 6.10
Cellier des Demoiselles +33 4 68 44 02 73
LE PETIT ST JACQUES 88/100
ORG D VINTAGE 2023
http://www.chateaustjacques.com Price: € 8.50
Château Saint Jacques d’Albas +33 4 68 78 24 82
CELLIER DES DEMOISELLES 87/100
D VIEUX CARIGNAN 2023
http://www.cellier-des-demoiselles.fr Price: € 6.10
Cellier des Demoiselles +33 4 68 44 02 73
DOMAINE DE BELLE MARE 87/100
CR D DUO 2022
http://www.belle-mare.com Price: € 6.50
Domaine de Belle Mare +33 4 67 43 17 68
DOMAINE DE BELLE MARE 86/100
CR D DUO 2022
http://www.belle-mare.com Price: € 6.50
Domaine de Belle Mare +33 4 67 43 17 68
PIC SAINT LOUP
BERGERIE DU CAPUCIN 91/100
CONV D LARMANELA 2020: Concentrated
ruby colour. Pronounced bouquet of ashy and
smoky aromas, hints of spices, ripe stone
fruit and garrigue. In the mouth, the aromatic
spontaneity captivates. A balance of aromas
and perfectly controlled ageing. A wine with
sheathed muscles.
http://www.bergerieducapucin.fr Price: € 28.00
Bergerie du Capucin +33 4 67 59 01 00
BERGERIE DU CAPUCIN 89/100
CONV D DAME JEANNE 2021
http://www.bergerieducapucin.fr Price: € 18.00
Bergerie du Capucin +33 4 67 59 01 00
ST GUILHEM LE DÉSERT
DOMAINE LES GRANDES COSTES 91/100
D L’HORT BLANC 2022: Hay-yellow. Nose of
juicy peaches and pears with sweet spices and
wild flowers completing the line-up. The palate
shows seductively fine sourness and a fruity feel
that adds a lot of depth, all of which is fuelled by
freshness. A rare, complex wine.
http://www.grandes-costes.com Price: € 17.50
Les Grandes Costes +33 4 67 59 27 42
DOMAINE LES GRANDES COSTES 89/100
D LE ROUGE CANAILLE 2022
http://www.grandes-costes.com Price: € 9.85
Les Grandes Costes +33 4 67 59 27 42
CAROLINE, CAMILLE AND JEAN PANIS IN THEIR VINEYARDS (CHÂTEAU DU DONJON).
SUMMER 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
123

PROVENCE - BANDOL
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
PROVENCE
We travelled the length and breadth
of Provence to bring you this unique
selection of rosés from the Var, Bouches
du Rhône and Alpes de Haute-Provence
areas. The region offers the perfect
illustration of the topic of our report –
the extensive range of origins and styles
of the star wines for summer
PROVENCE
BANDOL
DOMAINE DE L’OLIVETTE 90/100
HVE D VINTAGE 2022: Pale orangey hue.
Subtle citrus and gunflint notes adorn the nose.
The palate is more appealing due to its texture
and its elegance. The finish is mouth-filling with
citrus aromas masterfully taking centre stage.
http://www.domaine-olivette.com Price: € 16.90
Domaine de l’Olivette +33 4 94 98 58 86
COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE
LE CELLIER DE SAINT LOUIS 88/100
D X
http://www.cercle-provence.fr Price: € 40.00
Estandon Coopérative en Provence +33 4 94 37 21 00
COTEAUX VAROIS EN
PROVENCE
BASTIDE DE MARGÜI 92/100
ORG D VINTAGE 2022: Pale orangey-pink.
Elegant nose delivering a mix of sweet spices,
nuts and wild strawberries. The palate shows a
beautiful sparkle with brilliant, elegant flavours.
It shows a sappy fleshy feel, freshness and
unusually deep aromatics. A high-end rosé.
http://www.chateaumargui.com Price: € 29.00
Château Margüi +33 6 10 26 56 25
CHÂTEAU MARGÜI 90/100
ORG D VINTAGE 2022: Pale orangey hue.
Delicate fruity nose blending red berry fruits and
citrus aromas. The palate is very harmonious
right from the attack with clean fruit rapidly
flowing into mineral, gunflint tones. This is a
very charming rosé.
http://www.chateaumargui.com Price: € 17.50
Château Margüi +33 6 10 26 56 25
LUMIÈRE DE PROVENCE 88/100
D VINTAGE 2023
http://www.cercle-provence.fr
Estandon Coopérative en Provence +33 4 94 37 21 00
CÔTES DE PROVENCE
CELLIER MARIUS CAIUS 90/100
D 1912 2022: Appealing, clear pale pink.
Nose of red berry fruits coupled with a gunflint
tone. The attack on the palate is delicate with
chiselled aromas and sustained freshness in this
top-flight Côtes de Provence.
https://www.cellier-marius-caius.fr/ Price: € 7.30
Cave La Fraternelle - Marius Caius +33 4 98 05 12 05
CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE 89/100
ORG D VINTAGE 2022
https://www.chateaupaquette.fr/ Price: «€ 10
Château Paquette +33 4 94 40 87 90
CHÂTEAU RÉAL MARTIN 89/100
ORG D PERLE DE ROSÉ 2022
http://www.chateau-real-martin.com Price: € 12.00
Château Réal Martin +33 4 94 86 40 90
CHÂTEAU VERT 88/100
ORG D CHÂTEAU VERT 2022
https://chateau-vert.com/ Price: € 12.80
Domaine de Chateauvert - Robert Ghigo +33 4 94 66
80 59
FAGONE 88/100
ORG D VINTAGE 2022
https://domainefagone.com/ Price: € 8.90
La Bastide des Terres Blanches +33 7 89 87 54 06
FAGONE 88/100
ORG D VINTAGE 2022
https://domainefagone.com/ Price: € 8.90
La Bastide des Terres Blanches +33 7 89 87 54 06
CÔTES DE PROVENCE FRÉJUS
CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE 90/100
ORG D THÉMIS 2021: Beautiful brilliant,
light orangey hue. Mature fruity nose accented
by plums and apricots. The palate is soft and
offers up more of the same accomplished
flavours that remain fruit-dominant. Pleasant
tangy finish of apricots and figs.
https://www.chateaupaquette.fr/ Price: € 17.00
Château Paquette +33 4 94 40 87 90
CÔTES DE PROVENCE
LA LONDE
CHÂTEAU VERT 90/100
ORG D SÉDUCTION 2022: Salmon-blush
hue. Fine, fresh nose combining citrus fruits,
red berry fruits and floral undertones. The
palate is seductively mouth-filling and soft with
freshness and a fine texture. Great fruit presence
is underscored by spice in this beautiful rosé.
https://chateau-vert.com/ Price: € 14.50
Domaine de Chateauvert - Robert Ghigo +33 4 94 66 80 59
CÔTES DE PROVENCE SAINTE
VICTOIRE
CHÂTEAU COUSSIN 92/100
CR D CÉSAR À SUMEIRE 2022: Pale
orangey-blush hue. Inviting nose unfurling
floral and fruity notes with a trace of minerality
in the background. The palate is very wellbalanced,
tense and ample with precisely
judged proportions. A superbly delicate rosé for
gourmet food with lovely intensity on the finish.
http://www.sumeire.com Price: € 23.50
Famille Sumeire +33 4 42 61 20 00
CHÂTEAU COUSSIN 90/100
CR D VINTAGE 2022: Very pale colour
tinged with pink gold. Fruity nose showing lovely
intensity with subtle mineral undercurrents.
The palate displays a lovely delicate texture,
great balance and fruit flavours brimming with
freshness that become more powerful through
to the finish.
http://www.sumeire.com Price: € 14.90
Famille Sumeire +33 4 42 61 20 00
MÉDITERRANÉE
BEAUPRÉ 88/100
ORG D LA GRIFFE 2022
http://www.beaupre.fr Price: «€ 10.90
Château de Beaupré +33 4 42 57 33 59
VALMIN 87/100
D VINTAGE 2023
https://www.cellierdesignes.fr/
Cellier de Signes +33 6 60 23 04 34
124 SUMMER 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

HUNGARY - TOKAJ
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
HUNGARY
This wine producing country may be
small in size but it is big in stature, as we
found out after tasting some amazing
wines. Hungary is not just about
the well-known Tokaj – appellations
like Villani, Badacsony, Kunsag and
Pannonhalma offer quintessential
Hungarian pours.
BALATON
BADACSONY
SABAR 92/100
D KÉKNYELÜ 2022: Golden yellow colour.
Rich nose of hazelnut, ripe lemon, apple, and a
pleasant mineral undertone. On the palate, a suave
texture coupled with very pure, very precise, very
fresh, saline aromas. Mineral elegance adds to the
pleasure. Superb.
http://www.sabar.hu Price: € 16.00
Sabar Borház +36 30 98 46 540
SABAR 91/100
D RAJNAI RIZLING HERCEGFÖLD 2022:
Golden yellow colour. On the nose, a mineral
character combined with lemony notes and dried
fruit. Comfortable mouthfeel, with suave, saline
fruit enhanced by an elegant body. Long, fresh
finish with plenty of energy. A refined Riesling.
http://www.sabar.hu Price: € 12.00
Sabar Borház +36 30 98 46 540
SABAR 90/100
D OLASZRIZLING SINGLE VINEYARD BÁCS-
HEGY 2022: Clear, golden yellow colour. Fresh,
predominantly floral nose with citrus fruit, apple
and a touch of minerality. Enterprising palate,
developing an almost mentholated freshness.
Lovely fruit, delicate touch, pleasant juice. A
generous wine.
http://www.sabar.hu Price: € 12.00
Sabar Borház +36 30 98 46 540
DUNNA
KUNSAG
GÁL 90/100
CR D OLASZ RIZLING 2023: Bright light yellow
colour with green reflections. Racy nose combining
grapefruit, nettle and mineral accents. Invigorating
mouthfeel, generously displaying a range of punchy
fruit flavours with delicious gourmet breadth. For
grilled fish.
https://galpinceszet.hu/ Price: € 9.50
Gál Pincészet +36 24 418 585
GÁL 90/100
CR D KÉKFRANKOS 2020: Clear garnet-red
colour. Expressive nose combining floral scents,
toasty and mineral notes, cut hay and red fruit
undertones. In the mouth, beautiful, vibrant,
intense fruit takes over in a lively, full-bodied
structure. Worth discovering.
https://galpinceszet.hu/ Price: € 11.90
Gál Pincészet +36 24 418 585
GÁL 89/100
CR D CSERSZEGI FUSZERES 2023:
https://galpinceszet.hu/ Price: € 9.50
Gál Pincészet +36 24 418 585
GÁL 88/100
CR D ROSÉ 2023:
https://galpinceszet.hu/ Price: € 9.50
Gál Pincészet +36 24 418 585
GÁL 88/100
CR D KÉKFRANKOS ROSÉ 2023:
https://galpinceszet.hu/ Price: € 19.90
Gál Pincészet +36 24 418 585
NORTH TRANSDANUBIA
PANNONHALMA
BABARCZI 88/100
D MARIANUM 2021:
http://babarczipince.hu/ Price: € 26.00
Babarczi +36 96 456 734
BABARCZI 86/100
D MERLOT 2021:
http://babarczipince.hu/ Price: € 18.00
Babarczi +36 96 456 734
PANNON
VILLANY
A. GERE 93/100
D SOLUS 2021: Dark colour with ruby
reflections. Complex nose of stone fruit, liquorice,
truffles, coffee and toasted oak. Full-bodied and
very fresh with the same bewitching aromas
repeated in a rather refined setting. A beautiful
sensation of naturalness. Superb.
http://www.gere.hu Price: € 55.00
A. Gere +36 20 386 1848
A. GERE 92/100
D CSILLAGVÖLGY FRANC 2020: Deep garnetred
colour. Racy nose combining red fruit, liquorice,
fine toasted notes and discreet oak. Elegant and
lively in the mouth, revealing greater complexity
(cocoa, minerality) as the wine reaches its peak.
Great mastery. Well done.
http://www.gere.hu Price: € 31.00
A. Gere +36 20 386 1848
VYLYAN 91/100
D DUENNIUM 2015: Beautiful, deep colour
with tile-red reflections. Nose of overripe fruit with
pleasant hints of cocoa. Very fine harmony on the
palate, with mellow tannins and flavours at their
best. The finish is persistent, spicy and liquoricelike.
http://www.vylyan.hu Price: € 36.19
Vylyan Pincészet +36 72/ 579 705
VYLYAN 90/100
D PILLANGÓ 2019: Beautiful, deep colour
with tile-red reflections. On the nose, jammy fruit
mingle with hints of liquorice. The powerful attack
leads to a tannic but relatively light-bodied wine.
Good balance, but needs to be enjoyed immediately.
http://www.vylyan.hu Price: € 25.66
Vylyan Pincészet +36 72/ 579 705
VYLYAN 88/100
D CSÓKASZOLO 2019:
http://www.vylyan.hu Price: € 12.82
Vylyan Pincészet +36 72/ 579 705
VYLYAN 87/100
D KÉKFRANKOS 2022:
http://www.vylyan.hu Price: € 6.91
Vylyan Pincészet +36 72/ 579 705
TOKAJ
GRAND TOKAJ 96/100
D SZARVAS 37.5 CL 2013: Orangy colour with
coppery reflections. Intense nose of quince fruit
jelly, hints of apricot and nutmeg. Concentrated and
fresh in the mouth, with the same delicious flavour.
A subtle wine to complement exceptional dishes.
http://grandtokaj.com Price: € 12.00
Grand Tokaj +36 30 229 7107
GRAND TOKAJ 95/100
D SZARVAS FURMINT 2021: Bright, clear, pale
gold colour. On the nose, very pure ageing aromas
dominate, with notes of oak, sweet spices and toast.
The mouth is exceptionally full and fresh, with an
aromatic expression that combines complexity and
persistence. Outstanding.
http://grandtokaj.com Price: € 12.00
Grand Tokaj +36 30 229 7107
GRAND TOJAJ 92/100
D MESZES FURMINT 2021: Beautiful, clear,
pale gold colour. Ripe, fruity nose with pleasant
dried fruit fragrances. Very elegant texture and
chiselled aromas on the palate, evolving towards
scents of toast and gingerbread. A bottle of the
highest quality.
http://grandtokaj.com Price: € 12.00
Grand Tokaj +36 30 229 7107
SUMMER 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
125

ITALY - DELLE VENEZIE D.O.C.
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
ITALY
Italian Pinot Grigio has enjoyed
popularity throughout the country and
is now grown from north to south and
from east to west. We have put together
an eclectic selection that can be viewed
below so that you can rediscover the
Italian version of a grape variety with
the ability to adapt to all circumstances.
FRIULI - VENEZIA GIULIA
DELLE VENEZIE D.O.C.
BLU GIOVELLO 88/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2023
http://www.pieramartellozzo.com Price: € 14.00
Gruppo Martellozzo +39 04 34 963 100
FRIULI D.O.C.
STRATO 91/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2023: Bright golden
yellow colour. Racy nose of yellow fruit, lime
and fine spices. Well-crafted, fleshy, ample and
fresh mouthfeel, bursting with lemony intensity.
A silky, fine wine offering a beautiful, lingering
expression. Well done.
https://www.straitalian.com/
StraItalian Winemakers
VENCHIAREZZA 88/100
ORG D PINOT GRIGIO 2023
https://www.venchiarezza.it/ Price: € 12.50
Azienda Agricola Venchiarezza +39 349 682 95 76
ISOLA AUGUSTA 87/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2022
http://www.isolaugusta.com Price: € 9.50
Azienda Agricola Isola Augusta di Massimo Bassani
+39 043 158 046
TERRE MAGRE 87/100
D PINOT GRIGIO - PIERA 2023
http://www.pieramartellozzo.com Price: € 12.90
Gruppo Martellozzo +39 04 34 963 100
EAST BY NORTH EAST 86/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2022
Price: € 22.99
Enevini +39 342 115 11 50
FRIULI GRAVE D.O.C.
SOLO ROBERTO 90/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2023: Pale yellow colour
with green reflections. Very fruity, engaging
nose, revealing hints of plum and apricot. The
palate is similarly crisp, with a seductive touch
of almond. A charming wine for an aperitif off
the beaten track.
Price: € 12.00
Roma Vini +39 076 149 50 86
LAZIO
LAZIO I.G.T.
SAN MARCO 86/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2023
http://www.sanmarcofrascati.it
San Marco Frascati +39 069 409 403
LOMBARDY
PROVINCIA DI PAVIA I.G.T.
AMICALE 85/100
ORG D PINOT GRIGIO 2023
http://www.schenkitalia.it/ Price: € 13.80
Schenk Italia +39 047 180 33 11
SICILIA
TERRE SICILIANE I.G.T.
COLPASSO 89/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2022
http://www.twpwines.com Price: € 9.93
The Wine People + 39 0461 96 10 10
TRENTINO
VALDADIGE D.O.C. O
ESCHTALER D.O.C.
CANTINE DE ORA 88/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2023
http://www.schenkitalia.it/ Price: € 9.00
Schenk Italia +39 047 180 33 11
VENETIAN
DELLE VENEZIE D.O.C.
I BALZI 92/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2023: Bright pale yellow
colour. Delicate nose of fresh grapes combined
with floral touches. Full, fleshy and flavoursome
on the palate, with a ripe, well-balanced finish.
All these qualities are affirmed by a lingering,
saline finish.
http://www.verga.it Price: € 4.00
Casa Vinicola Natale Verga +39 044 464 81 80
LA JARA 88/100
ORG D PINOT GRIGIO 202:
http://www.terredeibuth.it Price: € 7.90
Azienda Agricola La Jara +39 043 848 82 90
MILANI 87/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2023
http://www.roccavini.com Price: € 4.90
Rocca Vini +39 039 65 01 51
VENETO I.G.T.
LAGO ANTICO 88/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2023
https://www.vicampo.de/ Price: € 9.99
Vicampo +49 160 756 84 84
VENEZIA D.O.C.
LA CANTINA DEI FEUDI 88/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2023
http://www.cantinadeifeudi.it Price: € 3.00
La Cantina dei Feudi +39 069 409 403
SAN MARCO 87/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2023
http://www.sanmarcofrascati.it
San Marco Frascati +39 069 409 403
ARISTOCRATICO 86/100
D PINOT GRIGIO DELLE VENEZIE 2023
http://www.enoitalia.it
IWB Italia +39 045 887 62 00
LAGO VERO 86/100
D PINOT GRIGIO 2023
https://www.vicampo.de/ Price: € 9.99
Vicampo +49 160 756 84 84
CIELO E TERRA 85/100
ORG D PINOT GRIGIO 2023
http://www.cieloeterravini.com Price: € 2.50
Cielo e Terra S.p.A. +39 044 448 52 11
DACASTELLO 89/100
D MANDI’S PINOT GRIGIO 2023
http://www.dacastellovini.com Price: € 13.00
Dacastello +39 0173 509 748
126 SUMMER 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

SLOVENIA - GORIŠKA BRDA
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
SLOVENIA
It is a little-known fact but Slovenia
produces very interesting wines that can
be red, rosé or white, but also sparkling
– there are even a few orange wines. We
take a deep dive into the heart of this
exotic wine country, located between
Italy and Hungary.
PODRAVSKA
ŠTAJERSKA SLOVENIJA
DRUZOVIC 90/100
D SISI - RIESLING 2023: Crystalline pale
colour, green tints. Clean, irresistible nose
combining citrus fruit, exotic fruit and an
elegant vegetal note. Rich and lively in the
mouth, bursting with greedy fruity flavours,
evolving on citrus fruit, long spicy finish. A
success.
http://www.sisi.si Price: € 4.00
Druzovic Winery +386 41 985-945
JOANNES 90/100
ORG D NATURA 2019: Bright golden
yellow. Very promising nose combining overripe
orange, floral and balsamic aromas, with a stony
undertone. Well-balanced mouthfeel providing
an airy feel. Taut and flavoursome, still mineral,
pleasing the taste buds for a very long time.
http://www.joannes.si Price: € 27.00
Vino Joannes Protner +386 41 654-305
FLEISINGER 87/100
D SIVI PINOT
http://www.kmetija-fleisinger.si Price: € 5.00
Vina Fleisinger +386 31 612 721
DOLENJSKA
ALBIANA 88/100
CR D BRUT ROSÉ
https://albiana.si/en/ Price: € 17.00
Albiana winery +386 31 652 343
PRIMORSKA
GORIŠKA BRDA
EDI SIMCIC 92/100
CR D REBULA 2022: Light yellow colour.
Delicately toasty on the nose, with a very pure,
fruity structure (citrus fruit, white fruit, dates).
Broad and unctuous mouthfeel, combining
ageing and fruit aromas with elegance and
charisma. A vibrant, rich, gastronomic cuvée.
http://www.edisimcic.si Price: € 23.00
Edi Simcic Wine Estate +386 5 3959173
FERDINAND MATJAZ CETRTIC 92/100
CONV D BRUTUS 2018: Deep garnet-red
with discreet tile-red tints. Racy nose combining
dried fruit, liquorice, fine spices, menthol and
exotic wood. Full-bodied on the palate, at its
peak, both elegant and lively, with a fascinating,
evolved palette. Superb.
http://www.ferdinand.si Price: € 60.00
Ferdinand Matjaz Cetrtic +386 5 304 36 00
VICOMTE DE NOUE MARINIC 92/100
ORG D TEJCA VEDRIGNANO II CRU 2020:
Brilliant yellow-gold. Generous nose combining
gunflint, white-fleshed fruits and a spice note.
The palate is rounded and fleshy with bold
freshness enhancing the complex aromatics that
show lovely finesse, purity and intensity.
https://domaine-nouemarinic.com/ Price: € 85.00
Domaine Noue Marinic +39 340 583 85 51
ERIGONE 91/100
ORG D REFOSCO GAUGNAZ 1 CRU
CLASSIFICAZIONE 2020: Beautiful deep red
with purple-blue. Profound nose suffused with
ripe fruit aromas flowing into a meaty tone.
The palate is ample and full-bodied at point of
entry then shows racy aromas and a long finish
that stays fruit-forward. This is a wine in peak
condition.
https://domaine-nouemarinic.com/ Price: € 50.00
Domaine Noue Marinic +39 340 583 85 51
FERDINAND MATJAZ CETRTIC 91/100
CONV D EPOCA - PINOT GRIGIO 2021: Hay
yellow colour. Rich, lemony nose with notes of
vine peach, pear and white flowers (elderberry).
Opulent, linear in the mouth, with a delicate
hint of smoky reduction that blends perfectly
with the extremely precise fruity score. Suave
and full-bodied.
http://www.ferdinand.si Price: € 25.00
Ferdinand Matjaz Cetrtic +386 5 304 36 00
SINEFINIS 91/100
D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 2018: Light
yellow. Intense nose offering aromas of dried
fruit, white peach and floral infusions (lime
blossom, jasmine). The mouth is very ample,
generous, and full of flavours that invigorate the
palate. Plenty effervescence. For creamy white
meat dishes.
http://www.ferdinand.si Price: € 28.00
Ferdinand Matjaz Cetrtic +386 5 304 36 00
BAGUERI 90/100
CR D SUPERIOR - CHARDONNAY 2020:
Pale golden yellow colour. Pleasant nose
combining white fruit, lime blossom, floral and
stony notes. Rich and fleshy in the mouth, with
greedy aromas supported by a lovely freshness.
Spicy and buttery, with a mineral finish. A real
treat.
https://klet-brda.si/en/?v=ce774d9cab3a Price: € 18.00
Klet Brda +386 5 331 01 00
BAGUERI 90/100
CR D SUPERIOR - REBULA 2020: Pale golden
yellow colour with bright reflections. Pleasant
nose combining yellow and exotic fruit, toasty
notes and a touch of minerality. Full-bodied and
ripe with generous exotic flavours and a peppery
finish. Full of character. For tasty dishes.
https://klet-brda.si/en/?v=ce774d9cab3a Price: € 18.00
Klet Brda +386 5 331 01 00
MARE SANTO 90/100
D EXTRA DRY - CUVÉE PRESTIGE : Clear,
pale gold colour. Pleasing, very expressive nose,
with hints of toast. On the palate, this wine
combines roundness and complexity with a very
ripe expression. The finish is beautifully long,
with delicious fruity tones.
https://maresanto.com/ Price: € 150.00
Mare Santo +386 513 96 577
ZANUT 90/100
CR D JAMA 2020: Bright golden yellow
colour. Delicate nose combining white fruit,
floral notes and discreet toasty oak. Fresh, fullbodied
and creamy mouthfeel with saline and
spicy flavours. Still a little subdued but well born
overall. Patience.
http://www.zanut.si Price: € 40.00
Zanut Winery +386 41 773 803
FERDINAND MATJAZ CETRTIC 89/100
CONV D EPOCA - AMBER GRIS 2021
http://www.ferdinand.si Price: € 25.00
Ferdinand Matjaz Cetrtic +386 5 304 36 00
MARE SANTO 88/100
D BRUT ROSÉ
https://maresanto.com/ Price: € 150.00
Mare Santo +386 513 96 577
SUMMER 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
127

SLOVENIA - KRAS
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
GORIŠKA BRDA, OFTEN CALLED THE TUSCANY OF SLOVENIA
KRAS
VINAKRAS 93/100
D LA MARIE - VITOVSKA 2018: Golden
colour. Rich nose combining vanilla, caramel,
white liquorice, floral notes and stewed white
fruit. In the mouth, the aromatic purity is
illustrated by the great elegance of the fruit.
Velvety texture, integrated ageing. Complex and
refined.
https://vinakras.si/ Price: € 20.00
Vinakras z.o.o +386 5 73 13 471
VINAKRAS 91/100
D LA MARIE - IZBRANI TERAN 2021:
Concentrated red colour with ruby reflections.
Juicy red and black fruit on the nose,
complemented by spices and flowers. Elegant
vegetal structure and fine concentration with
present, fine tannins and a charming fruity
structure on the palate.
https://vinakras.si/ Price: € 20.00
Vinakras z.o.o +386 5 73 13 471
SLOVENSKA ISTRA
SANTOMAS 90/100
CR D MEZZO FORTE 2019: Fairly deep
red colour with ruby-brown reflections. The
nose displays a fine, toasty, smoky structure,
supported by jammy red berries. Structured on
the palate, combining tannic presence with a
clean, long, fruity palette. Subtle ageing. Dense
and fleshy.
https://www.santomas.si/en/ Price: € 15.00
Santomas Winery +386 5 639 26 51
KORTINCA 88/100
ORG D 2013
http://www.korenikamoskon.si Price: € 30.00
Eko Mit +386 5 6421 049
VIPAVSKA DOLINA
VINA POLJŠAK 91/100
CR D OPUS BELO 2020: Golden yellow
colour with shiny reflections. Crisp nose of fresh
fruit (peach, apple, citrus), with a hint of pastry.
Well-adjusted palate with a smooth fullness
revealing aromatic precision centred on young,
juicy fruit. A cuvée in fine form.
https://www.vinapoljsak.com/ Price: € 15.00
Vina Poljsak +386 41 441 001
GUERILA 90/100
ORG D RETRO SELECTION 2021: Deep
golden colour. Engaging nose combining
yellow plums and aromatic herbs. Fleshy and
concentrated in the mouth, revealing a fine
complexity (citrus fruits, ginger, mixed spices)
in a heady, opulent whole. Definitely off the
beaten track.
https://guerila.si/ Price: € 19.80
Guerila Winey +386 51 660 265
SUTOR 90/100
CONV D CHARDONNAY 2020: Bright gold
colour with green reflections. Enticing nose
revealing mango, white fruit and a hint of pastry.
Beautifully fleshy and rich in the mouth, with a
generous range of flavours underlined by a spicy
accent. Enough to delight a noble shellfish.
https://www.sutor.si/ Price: € 20.00
Sutor Winery +386 313 95 797
VINA POLJŠAK 89/100
CR D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022
https://www.vinapoljsak.com/ Price: € 9.00
Vina Poljsak +386 41 441 001
PASJI REP 88/100
ORG D MERLOT 2020
http://www.pasji-rep.si Price: € 30.00
Pasji Rep +386 40 423 282
VINA POLJŠAK 88/100
CR D HARMONIJA RDEČE 2020
https://www.vinapoljsak.com/ Price: € 15.00
Vina Poljsak +386 41 441 001
128 SUMMER 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

SOUTH AFRICA - ELGIN
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
SOUTH AFRICA
Cap Classique is to South Africa what
Champagne is to France. Needless to
say, we had to tell you about it. This
novel appellation from the Western
Cape, which complies with very strict
production methods, celebrated its 50th
anniversary in 2021. It will blow you
away with its freshness and aromatic
intensity. Cheers!
WESTERN CAPE
CERES
KRONE 92/100
D KOELFONTEIN BLANC DE BLANCS
2020: Yellow straw. Brioche and sourdough
and biscotti on the nose. Rich and developed
on the fine mousse palate with citrus peel and
marmelade on the aftertaste. Layered and
complex. Drink through 2028.
https://krone.world/ Price: R 600
Twee Jonge Gezellen +27 23 230 0680
WESTERN CAPE
GRAHAM BECK 93/100
D ULTRA BRUT 2017: Light straw. Apple,
stewed quince and yeasty notes. Crispy, fresh
and lively on the palate entry. Refreshing dryness
adds lingering to the palate with excellent
cleansing qualities. Superb now.
https://grahambeck.com/ Price: R 390
Graham Beck +27 236261214
GRAHAM BECK 93/100
D PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2018: Attractive onion
skin colour with pink hue. Floral and red fruit
nuances on the nose. A medley of fruit flavours
complimented by red grape-fruit bitterness on
entry. Balanced, complex with well integrated
palate. Enjoy now.
https://grahambeck.com/ Price: R 390
Graham Beck +27 236261214
KLEIN ROOSBOOM 93/100
D MY WAY BRUT ROSÉ 2020: Pale orange.
Sourdough nose with hints of citrus peel. Crisp
and tart on the vibrant palate with lemon lime
and marmalade following from the nose. Fine
mousse on the lengthy and integrated aftertaste.
Drink through 2030.
http://www.kleinroosboom.co.za Price: R 327
Klein Roosboom +27 60 877 2678
LABORIE 92/100
D BLANC DE BLANCS 2018: Light yellow
with green tint. A medley of yellow and orange
skin fruit flavours meet the bouquet. Ripe
nectarine adds to the vibrancy. More citrus
and stone fruit appears on the palate, adding a
pleasant bitterness. Excellent now.
http://www.kwv.com Price: R 189
KWV +27 21 807 3353
GRAHAM BECK 91/100
D CUVÉE CLIVE 2018: Light straw. Brioche,
yellow apple and berry compliment the citrus
undertone. Vibrant mousse, balanced ratio and
good length. Touch of citrus bitterness with a
refreshing lingering aftertaste. Great potential
for further ageing.
https://grahambeck.com/ Price: R 1250
Graham Beck +27 236261214
KLEIN ROOSBOOM 91/100
D MY WAY BRUT 2020: Light straw. Green
apple and quince on the fruit-forward palate.
Honey and sourdough follows on the palate with
a crisp acidity and well-integrated mousse. Pithy
and tart on the aftertaste. Drink through 2030.
http://www.kleinroosboom.co.za Price: R 327
Klein Roosboom +27 60 877 2678
GRAHAM BECK 90/100
D BLANC DE BLANCS 2018: Straw yellow.
Fine pearl. The perfect brioche for 5-years old
and complimented by notes of yellow apple.
Ratio of acid to sugar dosage is in balance.
Further integration with time and will benefit
from further cellaring.
https://grahambeck.com/ Price: R 390
Graham Beck +27 236261214
SIMONSIG 89/100
D KAAPSE VONKEL BRUT 2022
http://www.simonsig.co.za Price: R 205
Simonsig Estate Wine +27 218 884 900
GENEVIEVE METHODE CAP CLASSIQUE 88/100
D EXTRA BRUT BLANC DE BLANC 2013
https://www.genevievemcc.co.za/ Price: R 560
Genevieve MCC +27 083 302 6562
PONGRACZ 88/100
D BRUT NV
http://www.distell.co.za Price: R 195
Heineken Beverages +27 21 8865640
KLEIN ROOSBOOM 87/100
D MARNÉ BRUT 2022
http://www.kleinroosboom.co.za Price: R 230
Klein Roosboom +27 60 877 2678
PIERRE JOURDAN 87/100
D BRUT NV
https://www.cabriere.co.za/ Price: R 185
Haute Cabrière + 27 21 876 2630
PONGRACZ 87/100
D ROSÉ NV
http://www.distell.co.za Price: R 195
Heineken Beverages +27 21 8865640
VILLIERA 87/100
D TRADITION BRUT NV
http://www.villiera.com Price: R 190
Villiera Wines +27 21 865 2002
PIERRE JOURDAN 86/100
D BELLE ROSÉ NV
https://www.cabriere.co.za/ Price: R 185
Haute Cabrière + 27 21 876 2630
PIERRE JOURDAN 86/100
D BELLE NECTAR NV
https://www.cabriere.co.za/ Price: R 185
Haute Cabrière + 27 21 876 2630
PONGRACZ 86/100
D NOBLE NECTAR NV
http://www.distell.co.za Price: R 195
Heineken Beverages +27 21 8865640
WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE
RIVER VALLEY
ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE
PHILIP JONKER 89/100
D ENTHEOS NV
https://weltevrede.com/ Price: R 182
Weltevrede Estate +27 23 616 2141
WESTERN CAPE - CAPE
SOUTH COAST
ELGIN
CHARLES FOX 92/100
CR D VINTAGE BRUT 2017: Golden straw.
Developed nose with brown apple and dried
quince. Palate is matured and meaty with a
savoury nuttiness on the integrated aftertaste.
Refined and elegant. Drink through 2028.
https://charlesfox.co.za/ Price: R 315
Charles Fox +27 82 569 2965
SUMMER 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
129

SOUTH AFRICA - OVERBERG - ELANDSKLOOF
OUR SUMMER SELECTION
CHARLES FOX 91/100
CR D BLANC DE BLANCS 2017: Golden
yellow. Nutty nose with hints of citrus. Tangy
lemon lime on the palate with a hint of tart green
apple on the aftertaste. Refined and elegant.
Drink through 2028.
https://charlesfox.co.za/ Price: R 460
Charles Fox +27 82 569 2965
CHARLES FOX 90/100
CR D RESERVE BRUT NV: Golden straw. Ripe
apple and quince on the developed nose. Crisp
and tart on the palate with quince and apple core
following from the nose. A vibrant mousse with
a tangy aftertaste. Drink through 2028.
https://charlesfox.co.za/ Price: R 220
Charles Fox +27 82 569 2965
CHARLES FOX 90/100
CR D BLANC DE NOIR 2018: Light straw.
Toasty nose with hints of yellow apple. Green
apple and citrus on the very vibrant palate with
a fine mousse on the tart aftertaste. Pithy on the
lemon lime finish. Drink through 2028.
https://charlesfox.co.za/ Price: R 580
Charles Fox +27 82 569 2965
CHARLES FOX 89/100
CR D VINTAGE ROSÉ 2020
https://charlesfox.co.za/ Price: R 325
Charles Fox +27 82 569 2965
TOKARA 89/100
D CAP CLASSIQUE BLANC DE BLANCS
2017
http://www.tokara.com Price: R 725
Tokara +27 21 808 5913
CHARLES FOX 88/100
CR D RESERVE ROSÉ NV
https://charlesfox.co.za/ Price: R 230
Charles Fox +27 82 569 2965
OVERBERG - ELANDSKLOOF
KRONE 91/100
D KAAIMANSGAT BLANC DE BLANCS 2021:
Yellow straw. Biscotti and citrus nose. Developed
on the palate with a rich and creamy texture
on the aftertaste. Finely integrated mousse on
the toasty finish. Layered and complex. Drink
through 2028.
https://krone.world/ Price: R 600
Twee Jonge Gezellen +27 23 230 0680
WALKER BAY
ESC 87/100
CR D BRUT ROSÉ 2022
Price: R 195
Escape +27 836255714
WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL
REGION
COASTAL REGION
THE VINEYARD COLLECTION 87/100
D CAP CLASSIQUE PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2020
http://www.perdeberg.co.za Price: R 160
Perdeberg Wines (Pty) Ltd +27 21 869 8244
DURBANVILLE
KLEIN ROOSBOOM 89/100
D MARNÉ BRUT ROSÉ 2021:
http://www.kleinroosboom.co.za Price: R 230
Klein Roosboom +27 60 877 2678
FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY
PIERRE JOURDAN 94/100
D BLANC DE BLANC 2018: Light straw.
Vibrant nose with quince and apricot. Stone fruit
and guava follows on the nose with a distinct
note of quince on the fine mousse finish. Lemon
lime on the aftertaste. Drink through 2030.
https://www.cabriere.co.za/ Price: R 285
Haute Cabrière + 27 21 876 2630
ANTHONIJ RUPERT 93/100
D L’ORMARINS PRIVATE CUVÉE 2015: Light
yellow. Yellow fruit and stone fruit on the nose
with a hint of toast. Finely integrated acidity and
mousse on the palate with a lemon lime note on
the crisp aftertaste. Complex and layered. Drink
through 2028.
http://www.rupertwines.com Price: R 475
Anthonij Rupert Wyne +27 21 874 9026
RICKETY BRIDGE 88/100
D BLANC DE BLANC NV
http://www.ricketybridgewinery.com Price: R 255
Rickety Bridge Winery +27 21 8762-129
RICKETY BRIDGE 88/100
D BRUT ROSÉ NV
http://www.ricketybridgewinery.com Price: R 255
Rickety Bridge Winery +27 21 8762-129
PAARL - AGTER
THE VINEYARD COLLECTION 86/100
D CAP CLASSIQUE CHENIN BLANC 2020:
http://www.perdeberg.co.za Price: R 160
Perdeberg Wines (Pty) Ltd +27 21 869 8244
STELLENBOSCH
KRUGER FAMILY RESERVE 89/100
ORG D MARGUERITE BRUT 2019
LABORIE HAS PRODUCED A GREAT BLANC DE
BLANCS 2018
http:stellenviewwines.com Price: R 350
Stellenview Premium Wines (PTY) LTD +27 871 520 997
GRAND VIN DE STELLENBOSCH 88/100
D MCC BRUT 2021
http://www.originwine.co.za Price: R 300
Origin Wine +27 021 865 8100
SIMONSIG 88/100
D KAAPSE VONKEL BRUT ROSÉ 2022
http://www.simonsig.co.za Price: R 205
Simonsig Estate Wine +27 218 884 900
TULBAGH
TWEE JONGE GEZELLEN 93/100
D BLANC DE BLANCS 2021: Yellow straw.
Stone fruit nose with dried apricot. Palate is
rich and dry with dried fruit and brown apple
following the nose. Layered and complex. Drink
through 2028.
https://krone.world/ Price: R 600
Twee Jonge Gezellen +27 23 230 0680
KRONE 89/100
D ROSÉ VINTAGE CUVEE BRUT 2022
https://krone.world/ Price: R 180
Twee Jonge Gezellen +27 23 230 0680
KRONE 88/100
D BOREALIS VINTAGE CUVEE BRUT 2022
https://krone.world/ Price: R 180
Twee Jonge Gezellen +27 23 230 0680
130 SUMMER 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

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