Jeweller - August 2024

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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY AUGUST 2024 

Shining Stars 

DOES CELEBRITY ENDORSEMENT 

IMPACT WATCH SALES? 

Show & Tell 

DISCOVER THE LATEST PRODUCTS 

AHEAD OF THE SYDNEY FAIR 

Hall of Fame 

LEARN ABOUT THE WORLD'S 

MOST FAMOUS DIAMONDS

Helping you shine 

yesterday, today 

& tomorrow. 

Proudly serving the Australian & New Zealand 

jewellery industry for 28 years 

worldshiner.com

Sapphire Dreams was born out of a deep admiration for the 

natural beauty of Australian sapphires, celebrating exceptional 

workmanship and contemporary jewellery designs. Each collection 

showcases a unique array of jewellery pieces, crafted in 9ct or 18ct 

gold, adorned with Australian sapphires in a myriad of vibrant 

colours. As a tribute to first-class craftsmanship, every piece of 

jewellery is a distinct work of art, with Australian Sapphires the 

perfect centrepiece for these beautiful designs. 

Become a stockist today 

02 9290 2199 SapphireDreams.com.au

Pink Kimberley showcases luxurious Argyle pink diamonds in elegant, unique designs. All Pink 

Kimberley jewellery is crafted in 18 carat gold, embellished with rare, sparkling Australian pink 

and white diamonds. Each individual stone has been carefully chosen and intricately arranged in 

an expression of creativity, influenced by Australian nature and landscapes. 

PinkKimberley.com.au 

Become a stockist today 02 9290 2199

THE 

GOLDEN 

SERIES 

To schedule an appointment, please contact us: 

L. J. WEST DIAMONDS INC. | 589 5th Ave, Suite 1102 | New York, NY 10017, U.S.A. | T +1 212 997 0940 

L. J. WEST AU PTY LTD | Level 9, 225 St Georges Terrace | Perth, WA 6000, Australia | T +61 40 997 6981 

THE 

GOLDEN 

Info@LJWestDiamonds.com | www.LJWestDiamonds.com | www.ScottWestDiamonds.com

DOES CELEBRITY ENDORSEMENT 

IMPACT WATCH SALES? 

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY AUGUST 2024 

DISCOVER THE LATEST PRODUCTS 

AHEAD OF THE SYDNEY FAIR 

LEARN ABOUT THE WORLD'S 

MOST FAMOUS DIAMONDS 

DESIGN 


Regions: 


Designer: 


Colors used: 



Part Number: 




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AUGUST 2024 

Contents 

This Month 

Industry Facets 

11 Editorial 

12 Upfront 

14 News 

28 

31 

110 

10 YEARS AGO 

Time Machine: August 2014 

LEARN ABOUT GEMS 

Game-changing Gemmologists: XII 

MY BENCH 

Tammy Keers 

32 ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION 

Identity evolution 

Discover the fascinating history of Timex, a 

watch brand with more than 170 years of heritage. 

59 Show & Tell 

112 

Features 

32 

35 

WATCHMAKING LEGACY 

Reflecting on 170 years of Timex 

INVESTIGATING INFLUENCE 

SOAPBOX 

Stefanie Wernekinck 

How much impact does star power have on watch sales? 

47 

53 

56 

59 

94 

WORLD FAMOUS DIAMONDS 

Legendary stones up-close and personal 

ROMANCING THE STONE CUTTERS 

The evolution of diamond cutting across history 

BRANDED JEWELLERY REVOLUTION 

Thomas Sabo celebrates special anniversary 

SHOW & TELL 

The newest products ahead of the Sydney Fair 

MODERN VALUES MEETS TRADITION 

What did we learn from Hong Kong? 

59 SHOW & TELL 

It's nearly showtime! 

Learn about the latest new products available 

ahead of the International Jewellery Fair. 

99 

Better Your Business 

104 

106 

BLUE CHEESE & BLUE SAPPHIRES 

Discover an extraordinary community in France 

BUSINESS STRATEGY 

DAVID BROWN discusses the power of psychology. 

SELLING 

ALEX FETANAT outlines the importance of email marketing. 

107 

108 

109 

MANAGEMENT 

SHEP HYKEN makes difficult tasks seem easy. 

MARKETING & PR 

RICH KIZER AND GEORGANNE BENDER continues the makeover. 

LOGGED ON 

JEANNIE WALTERS details the impact of Artificial Intelligence. 

47 UP CLOSE & PERSONAL 

World's Most 

Famous Diamonds 

Learn about the rich history behind the world's 

most famous diamonds, and get face-to-face with 

the most accurate recreations of the stones that 

rocked the world. 

FRONT COVER 

In 1854, TIMEX combined European 

clockmaking and American ingenuity to take 

clocks from the living room mantels of the 

one per cent and introduce them to the world. 

Fast-forward to today and TIMEX continues 

to innovate to deliver high-quality, accessible 

timepieces for everyday consumers. Learn more: 

designaaccessories.com.au/brands/timex/ 

Shining Stars 

Show & Tell 

Hall of Fame 

August 2024 | 9

EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND BY 

AU +61 2 8543 4600 NZ +64 9 480 2211 | designaaccessories.com.au 

(03) 9663 2321 

INFO@ATHAN.COM.AU 

WWW.ATHAN.COM.AU 

602/220 COLLINS ST, MELBOURNE VIC 3000

Editor’s Desk 

Dark art of language: How words cast spells of deception 

The magic of the tongue is the most dangerous of all spells. 

SAMUEL ORD discusses the deceptive influence of language in the jewellery industry. 

For those hoping to mislead or deceive 

consumers, language is a formidable 

weapon not dissimilar to a magic spell 

or incantation. 

Have you ever noticed that all the qualities 

we attribute to magic equally apply to 

language? They both possess the ability 

to reshape our perception of reality. 

Language converts thoughts into words, 

facilitating communication and the 

exchange of ideas. 

Similarly, magic transforms ordinary 

objects and situations into extraordinary 

things, challenging our perception of 

what is real and what is not. 

In books and films, nefarious wizards 

and witches speak words that animate 

the dead or transform people into animals. 

In our world, cunning marketing campaigns 

use and abuse language to mislead and 

deceive consumers. 

If you haven’t noticed by now, language is 

an important topic at Jeweller. Adhering to 

strict definitions establishes a framework 

for accuracy in any discussion. Studying 

language might be tedious for many; 

however, it can uncover hidden truths 

and reveal deception. 

A few months ago, I had an interesting 

conversation with an industry member 

who had something he wanted to get 

off his chest. 

He detests the term ‘recycled gold.’ 

I asked him why, and he explained the 

many issues with the term. 

Given the importance of language in the 

jewellery industry, I was surprised to 

learn that no standard definition exists. 

I was reminded of this conversation when 

a major US jewellery retailer recently 

announced that it would no longer use the 

term ‘recycled gold’ in relation to 

gold jewellery. 

A spokesperson for the retailer said that 

the term had too many issues. 

In particular, the word ‘recycled’ should only 

refer to products intentionally diverted from 

a waste stream. 

The logic behind the decision is easy to 

follow; gold is never wasted! 

It is one of the most valuable materials on 

the planet and is a store of value. The fact 

that great lengths are taken to salvage gold 

should be evidence enough that it can’t 

rightfully be referred to as ‘waste’. 

According to the World Gold Council, 

recycled gold accounted for around 

30 per cent of total supply over the 

past 20 years – the vast majority of 

which supposedly comes from jewellery. 

The issue becomes even more complicated 

when you consider the purpose of recycling. 

The general idea is to decrease demand for 

materials, which, in turn, reduces their use 

in production. This leads to a decline in the 

environmental impact of production. 

Does this description match the practice of 

recycling gold? Absolutely not! 

To the best of my knowledge, attempts 

to ‘recycle’ gold have had no discernible 

impact on the high demand for gold, 

which continues to rise because of its 

immense value. 

The practice of ‘recycling’ scrapped gold 

jewellery also involves using toxic chemicals 

in refining, just as they are used when ‘new’ 

gold is created. 

I'm not suggesting there's anything innately 

wrong with recycled gold. It serves an 

important purpose. 

With that said, if the term ‘recycled gold’ is 

so problematic, why is its use 

so widespread? 

I can think of two possible answers. 

The first is the generous reading of the 

situation: it is merely the imprecise use of 

language, with the word ‘recycled’ used 

because a more fitting term was lacking. 

The US retailer I mentioned has determined 

that ‘repurposed gold’ is more appropriate. 

Another explanation is that this is another 

example of an industry attempting to 

portray its product as having a positive 

environmental impact with deceptive 

marketing designed to mislead consumers. 

By presenting the gold as ‘recycled’, the 

industry is obfuscating the reality of the 

issue and falsely easing any concerns 

consumers may have about gold’s 

environmental impact. 

Simple words 

can blind us to 

apparent truths 

and manipulate 

us into making 

decisions we 

otherwise would 

not have. 

The practice has not reduced the global 

demand for gold, which, as mentioned, 

is the stated aim of recycling. 

This issue becomes even easier to 

understand with a comparison between 

the sale of recycled gold jewellery and 

other products made from recycled material. 

When a consumer heads to a supermarket 

to purchase tissues, the environmentally 

friendly recycled option might be attractive; 

however, it doesn’t provoke the consumer to 

make a purchase they otherwise wouldn’t. 

In other words, the consumer was always 

going to purchase tissues as a necessity, 

and just because they’re marketed as 

recycled, that doesn’t mean the consumer 

will purchase an extra box. 

The same can’t be said for recycled gold 

jewellery because it is a luxury purchase and 

not a necessity. The fact that the jewellery is 

‘environmentally friendly’ could be enough 

to trigger an impulse purchase. It has the 

potential to be a powerful additional selling 

point and tip the consumer in favour 

of making a purchase for which they may 

have not. 

Given the issues surrounding ‘recycled 

gold’ as a concept, it’s easy to see how this 

language could be viewed as a deliberate 

attempt to manipulate consumers into 

making a purchase they otherwise 

would not have made. 

It’s a timely reminder that language is the 

closest parallel we have to magic in the 

‘real world’. It can transform our perception 

of the world and manipulate us into 

believing that ordinary objects are 

anything other than what they truly are. 

As consumers, we can even be fooled into 

believing that a precious metal mined from 

miles beneath the surface and transformed 

into jewellery using toxic chemicals is 

somehow good for the environment. 

Language is fact-creating, and how we use it 

shapes our perception of the world. Simple 

words can blind us to apparent truths and 

manipulate us into making decisions we 

otherwise would not have. 

So, with that in mind, always choose your 

words carefully and keep your wits about you 

- because it's easy to become spellbound. 

SAMUEL ORD 

EDITOR 


Upfront 

Stranger Things 

Weird, wacky and wonderful 

jewellery news from around the world 

Freaky Friday 

Police in India are investigating an 

alleged 'diamond switch' where a 

10-carat natural diamond, valued at 

$USD545,000, was swapped with a 

nearly identical lab-created replica. The 

incident unfolded when the accused 

examined the heart-shaped stone, along 

with its GIA certificate, and made a 

$12,000 down payment. Upon leaving to 

withdraw money, the buyer disappeared. 

The business owner later discovered 

he had been duped with a lab-created 

replica with identical shape, colour, and 

weight. Authorities are investigating. 

From disaster to dial 

Salvage crews spent weeks extracting 

steel from the collapsed Francis Scott 

Key Bridge. Now, Alan Tsao, founder of 

Tsao Baltimore Watch Company, plans 

to incorporate some of this metal into 

new watches. These watches, distinct 

from his existing collection, will honour 

the bridge’s legacy as a Baltimore 

icon. A friend involved in the salvage 

obtained small sections of truss metal. 

Tsao’s designs have previously featured 

Baltimore themes and landmarks. 

Proceeds will support the Key Bridge 

Emergency Response Fund. 

Rewind: Best Bench Tip 

APRIL 2016 

“Watch out for new 

designs and trends 

in techniques.” 

OK JIN JANG 

JANG’S JEWELLERY 

HISTORIC GEMSTONE 

Nur-Al-Ain 

The Nur-Al-Ain 

originated from a fragment 

of the shattered Great 

Table, and is one of the 

largest pink diamonds 

in the world and the 

centrepiece of the tiara 

of the same name. The 

diamond is believed to have 

been recovered from the 

mines of Golconda, Hyderabad, in India. Since direct measurements 

are unavailable, its weight and dimensions can only be estimated. 

In 1958, Harry Winston set the stone into a tiara for Empress Farah 

Pahlavi. While it is assumed that the diamond was weighed and 

measured during this process, Winston chose not any specifics. 

Timeless Trends 

Engraving holds the power to 

transform a piece of jewellery into 

a deeply personal and cherished 

keepsake. Whether a customer is 

purchasing it for themselves or gifting 

it, the addition of engraved initials, 

a significant date, or a message 

adds a layer of sentimentality that 

transcends the beauty of the piece. 

Image: Thomas Sabo 

Image: Louis Vuitton 

Farmer’s miracle recovery 

A farmer who believed a cow had 

eaten his treasured timepiece has been 

reunited with the wristwatch more 

than 50 years later. James Steele, 95, 

of Shropshire in the west midlands of 

England, believed the watch was lost 

forever after the bracelet broke in the 

early 1970s. The watch in question 

is a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air King 

— a sporty luxury watch featuring 

the signature Rolex Oyster case and 

bracelet, which ensure durability and 

water resistance. 

Artificial Intelligence (AI) has 

become an increasingly hot talking 

point among jewellery retailers; 

however, an Australian lawyer is 

encouraging business owners to 

think twice before implementing 

it. In a recent interview, Bartier 

Perry commercial partner Rebecca 

Hegarty said that many retailers 

aren't adequately prepared for the 

potential issues raised by AI. She 

said that retailers must understand 

the risks involved and which legal 

protections are in place in the event of 

an issue, emphasising that this is not 

'set and forget' technology. 

Campaign Watch 

Leading luxury brand Louis 

Vuitton has released a new jewellery 

collection, showcased by a marketing 

campaign featuring actress Ana de 

Armas. The collection — Awakened 

Hands, Awakened Minds — was 

designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof 

and inspired by 19th-century France. 

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY 

Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd 

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com 

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Editor Samuel Ord samuel.ord@jewellermagazine.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com 

Production Prince Bisenio art@befindanmedia.com • Digital Coordinator Riza Buliag riza@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com 

Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd 

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information 

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to 

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities 

arising from the published material.

INTERCHANGEABLE 

IJF STAND 

D01 

p +61 (0)8 8221 5580 

sales@timesupply.com.au | timesupply.com.au 

exclusive distributor AU & NZ 

IJF STAND 

D01

International 

Jewellery Fair 2024 

An Inside Look: A Preview of Events 

$5,000 prize on offer for 

jewellery retailers 

Visitors at the upcoming Sydney Fair will have the chance 

to win a consultancy package that may transform their 

business. 

The International Jewellery Fair will take place at the 

International Convention and Exhibition Centre in Darling 

Harbour on 17-19 August. 

Retail Edge Consultants will be one of more than 140 

exhibitors at the event. 

As part of a promotion, the company is offering one lucky 

visitor a four-month consulting package valued at $5,000. 

General manager Leon van Megen said the company 

was experiencing significant changes, with a renewed 

emphasis on hands-on business guidance. 

“The Sydney Fair is a really important opportunity for 

us every year. It’s really exciting to get the chance to 

reconnect with so many of our clients face-to-face,” he 

told Jeweller. 

“We’re going to be providing some fascinating snippets of 

the new software products we plan to launch in 2025. 

"When it comes to our Business Consulting programme, 

we’ve taken on a lot of new and exciting clients lately, and 

it’s a good chance for us to share the recent changes at 

our company with visitors.” 

The Business Consulting promotion addresses five critical 

areas within jewellery retail: financial management, 

inventory, staffing, business growth opportunities, and 

leadership and self-management. 

Retail Edge publishes an aggregated analysis of sales and 

inventory data collected from more than 400 independent 

jewellery stores each month. 

The latest report detailed a notable decline in sales in June 

and van Megen said visitors should be well prepared for an 

event like the Sydney Fair to make the most of the second 

half of year – including the all-important holiday period. 

“In my experience, far too many retailers head to the fair 

without a clear plan. Visitors are either ‘guns blazing’ or too 

cautious because they haven’t planned in advance,” he said. 

“That comes down to studying your financials thoroughly 

so you’re aware of how the core categories within your 

business are performing." 

He continued: “When you’ve got that knowledge on hand, 

you’re able to make informed and effective decisions and 

eliminate any confusion surrounding the direction of your 

business.” 

Entering the competition is simple – retailers can visit 

the Retail Edge Consultants stand at the Sydney Fair in 

person to register, or email kim@retailedgeconsultants. 

com in advance. 

Can’t make it to the fair? Retailers can book an online 

meeting. 

European watch brand ready for Australian stores 

The Sydney Fair is just weeks away, and 

one exhibitor is expecting that an emerging 

European watch brand will resonate particularly 

strongly with visitors. 

In March, German Cuckoo Clock Nest (GCCN) 

announced the acquisition of exclusive 

distribution rights for Pierre Lannier watches 

in Australia. The brand was founded in 1977 

in France and offers watches in a range of 

styles, from minimalist designs to eye-catching 

statement pieces. 

Managing director Stefanie Wernekinck said 

many Australians often have a soft spot for 

brands with an international reputation and a 

storied history. 

“Their elegant designs, which blend classic 

and modern styles, are a big hit with Aussies 

who appreciate sophisticated fashion. The 

high-quality craftsmanship and use of 

premium materials also align perfectly with 

the Australian emphasis on durability and 

reliability,” she told Jeweller. 

“It’s about striking a great balance between 

luxury and affordability. They offer stylish, 

well-made watches at accessible prices, which 

appeals to value-conscious Australians. 

"The brand's versatility in design means there's 

something for everyone, whether it's a casual 

day out or a formal event.” 

New retailers placing an initial order of 24 

watches will receive a complimentary Pierre 

Lannier watch gift set valued at $339. The 

set will also include a retail watch display, 

packaging, free business support, including 

marketing assets and after-sales support. 

Wernekinck said she was looking forward 

to the Sydney Fair because of the valuable 

opportunities in-person networking presents 

business partnerships. 

“One major aim is strengthening our 

relationships with existing clients and 

partners. We believe that face-to-face 

interactions help build trust and foster 

deeper connections," she explained. 

"We are aiming to enhance our brand visibility 

and reputation in the Australian market." 

“Another ambition is to gather valuable 

feedback from attendees. Understanding 

their preferences and needs can guide our 

product development and marketing strategies." 

Based in Queensland, GCCN distributes a 

range of European clock brands to retail 

partners nationwide through its network. 

These include Hermle, Engstler, Trenkle, 

Hekas, Comitti, Kieninger, and AMS. 

Nationwide Jewellers announces release of new book 

Nationwide Jewellers has announced the release 

of its updated Repair Price Book. 

For more than 20 years, members have used 

the Repair Price Book to fine-tune their 

business. 

The guide provides structured pricing for the most 

common jewellery and watch repairs, calculated 

based on materials and precise labour time. 

By monitoring changes in metal and labour 

costs, jewellery retailers can protect and 

enhance margins. 

Managing director Colin Pocklington said that, 

with the precious metals market significantly 

changing over the past 12 months, retailers that 

don’t update their pricing strategy risk losing 

significant revenue. 

"Keeping repair prices current is more critical 

than ever, particularly with metal prices having 

soared by over 40 per cent since the previous 

edition in early 2023," he told Jeweller. 

"Repairs constitute a substantial portion of 

most jewellery stores' overall sales. Failing to 

price these services correctly means leaving 

significant revenue on the table. 

“There’s simply too much at stake.” 

This is the 15th edition of the book that the 

buying group has published. Pre-orders are now 

open for members ahead of the Sydney Fair. 

14 | August 2024

Where Brilliance Connects 

$30,000: Gerrim celebrates anniversary with 

colour gemstone jewellery competition in Sydney 

Sydney Fair prepares 

for 38 very special guests 

One lucky visitor will leave the Sydney Fair 

having won a collection of jewellery valued 

at $30,000 courtesy of Gerrim International, 

which is celebrating its 30th anniversary 

this year. 

Gerri Maunder’s decision to launch Gerrim 

International three decades ago was a leap 

of faith, famously beginning with six rings, 

a borrowed roll of gold chain, and a range 

of padlocks. 

Over the coming years, she steadily expanded 

the colour gemstone jewellery business by 

forging relationships with retailers, buying 

groups, and other suppliers. 

She said that the giveaway was an 

opportunity to highlight her gratitude for the 

industry surrounding the business in light of 

the anniversary. 

“We’re excited to give something back to the 

jewellery industry as a way to say thank you 

for the past 30 years, and we thought the 

Sydney Fair was a great opportunity to do 

exactly that,” she told Jeweller. 

“What we’ve achieved over the past three 

decades wouldn’t have been possible without 

the jewellery industry, and that’s the message 

we’d really like to get across. 

“We’re proud to work so closely with the 

buying groups, particularly. 

"We think they do a wonderful job of 

supporting retailers and keeping them 

engaged and abreast of important changes in 

the industry.” 

In terms of major milestones, Maunder said 

that welcoming her children — Rachel and 

Samantha — to the business was a moment 

that remained firmly in her mind. She also 

discussed her passion for trade shows 

and jewellery fairs, which offer a unique 

opportunity to expand one’s knowledge and 

understanding of the market. 

“Many of the hard yards are completed in 

private at these events. I’m one of those 

people who can’t help themselves with 

jewellery; whether I’m on holiday or at a fair, I 

love to wander around and look at everything 

on offer,” she said. 

“It’s always important to watch for what’s 

grabbing people’s attention. We’re always on 

the lookout for something new, exciting, and 

different. It’s important to keep searching for 

that perfect piece of jewellery or gemstone 

that will appeal to Aussies.” 

Gerrim also recently released its new retail 

catalogue. 

Expertise Events has arranged for the World 

Famous Diamonds replica collection to 

return to the International Jewellery Fair. 

The collection, created by well-known US 

gemstone cutter Scott Sucher, first toured 

Australia in 2008 with 26 perfect replicas, 

including the Hope Diamond, Tiffany Yellow, 

Cullinan, Dresden Green and, the most famous 

diamond of all, the Koh-I-Noor. 

Sucher’s collection has now extended to 38 stones, 

including the Orlov, Jubilee and Beau Sancy. 

It’s important to note that the World Famous 

Diamonds replicas are not mere representations 

or imitations. This distinction is vital; while a 

representation is a ‘stand-in’ for its authentic 

counterpart, it is not necessarily accurate or exacting. 

“A replica re-creates the size, shape and colour 

of the original precisely – something that is 

especially relevant to diamonds such as these 

because so few people are familiar with the 

originals,” Sucher explained. 

And while the replicas have been re-created 

in cubic zirconia, the stone’s full beauty, 

magnificence, and uniqueness can still be 

appreciated – they are as near as possible to the 

original stone. For example, the most famous 

diamond in the collection, the Koh-i-Noor, has 

been replicated from a plaster model made in 

1851 before the original gem was cut into its 

current form. 

In 2006, after lengthy negotiation, Sucher obtained 

permission from the Natural History Museum 

of London to have one of the two original 1850 

plaster casts of the Koh-i-Noor shipped to 

Antwerp to be X-rayed and laser scanned to 

produce a perfect replica. Sucher spent 18 months 

modelling and nearly 100 hours precisely cutting 

two replicas of the Koh-i-Noor: one is now on 

display at the Natural History Museum of London, 

and the other he kept for his collection. 

To provide insight into the painstaking work of 

creating exact replicas, Sucher worked with 

the Discovery Channel when it was producing 

the documentary Unsolved History: The Hope 

Diamond, which aired in February 2005. 

The 38-stone World Famous Diamonds collection 

will be featured in a special-purpose display at the 

upcoming International Jewellery Fair. 

In addition to speaking about the collection and 

other related gemstone topics at the show, Sucher 

will be available to answer questions on gemstone 

cutting. He said he was particularly eager to 

discuss his favourite gemstone: Australian opal. 


News 

T H E W A T E R C H A M P I O N 

Forged from the same rugged 

DNA as its predecessor, the 

new Neptunian Grande Réserve 

features a scratch-resistant 

ceramic bezel and sapphire 

crystal. At the heart of this 

new Neptunian lies the new 

calibre 808, which boasts 

a generous 68-hour power 

reserve (réserve de marche in 

French). With this remarkable 

improvement, the Neptunian 

Grande Réserve is tailored to 

excel both in and out of the water. 

Room for improvement: Latest Australian 

jewellery sales trends under the microscope 

Recent sales analysis has highlighted some critical areas for 

improvement for Australia’s independent jewellery stores. 

According to the latest research from Retail Edge Consultants, 

sales in June declined by 10 per cent on a year-on-year 

comparison. This follows a 1.3 per cent decline in May. 

Unit sales in June decreased by seven per cent by the same metric, 

while the average retail sale price was $239, a five per cent decline 

from the previous year. 

Earlier this year, the average retail sale price had increased month 

-by-month; however, that was not the case in June. 

Diamond jewellery was once again identified as an area of concern, 

decreasing by 30 per cent on a year-on-year comparison and 13 per 

cent when compared with 2022. 

General manager Leon van Megen said jewellery retailers must 

prioritise inventory management to address this issue. 

“This decline in the largest jewellery category and continues to impact 

the total performance of jewellery businesses,” van Megen said. 

“Managing diamond inventory remains critical to managing your 

total inventory, which continues to be the single biggest driver of the 

accumulation of aged stock.” 

Colour gemstone jewellery increased by 13 per cent, while silver 

and alternative metal jewellery narrowly (1.3 per cent) decreased. 

Precious metal jewellery without a gemstone or diamond increased 

by 4.4 per cent. 

Services, such as repairs, were also an area highlighted by the 

research, decreasing by 31 per cent in dollar terms between new 

orders and pickups and/or cancellations. 

Laybys declined by 5 per cent on a year-on-year comparison, and it was 

a similar story with special orders, which decreased by 4.5 per cent. 

(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au

Are you charging 

what you’re worth? 

Nationwide members do. 

• Professional repair pricing 

structure 

• Reflecting current metal 

and labour costs 

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News 

Drive to survive: Will LVMH oust Rolex? 

In recent weeks, rumours have circulated that Louis Vuitton Moët 

Hennessy (LVMH) is preparing a bid to become the official timekeeper 

for Formula 1. 

Coronet, a blog dedicated to Rolex news, has reported that ‘sources in 

Geneva’ revealed that LVMH will be the new official timekeeper as of 

2025, with an annual contract costing around $USD150 million. 

The report does not specify TAG Heuer as the brand leading the 

supposed partnership; however, given the brand’s previous associations 

with motor racing it would appear to be the most likely choice. 

Should this new partnership progress, it would abruptly end an 

11-year agreement between Rolex and Formula 1. 

“Rolex started its role as the global timekeeper of F1 back in 2013, not 

being the official sponsor of any one team and allowing other brands 

to be associated with them and their drivers, while Rolex branding 

stayed consistent across all racetracks,” writes Russell Sheldrake of 

Time & Tide. 

“According to Forbes, Rolex pays an estimated $USD50 million annually 

to be the official timepiece of the motor racing series, but the sport has 

seen a boom in popularity in the last couple of years. 

“The sport had an average of 70 million global viewers per Grand Prix last 

year, with an increase across the board from pre-pandemic numbers.” 

In February, a new analysis of the market capitalisation of the world’s 

leading luxury goods companies highlighted LVMH's dominance, while 

Rolex narrowly scraped into the top 20. 

In an interview with WatchPro, CEO of LVMH’s watch division, Frédéric 

Arnault, said that motorsports would be the company's keen focus over 

the coming decade. He attributed this interest to the expanding global 

audience of young consumers. 

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"Many watch brands are associated with Formula 1 teams and drivers 

— TAG Heuer, Richard Mille, Bremont [for now], Girard-Perregaux, IWC, 

H. Moser & Cie. and Tudor — but Rolex’s 13-year-long association is 

what 60-70 million racing fans worldwide see in almost every frame of 

television coverage," writes Rob Corder. 

"Few sports have that sort of reach, and that is before the perfect 

alignment with precision engineering, split-second timekeeping, 

sporting excellence and almost infinite opportunities for corporate 

hospitality are factored in." 

In July of the past year, LVMH was named a major sponsor of the 

upcoming Olympic Games in Paris.

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News 

Swiss luxury clock brand 

acquired by LVMH 

Ambitious plans: Watches of Switzerland dreaming big 

L’Epée 1839, a high-end clock manufacturer 

from Switzerland, has been purchased by luxury 

conglomerate Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy 

(LVMH). 

CEO Arnaud Nicolas will continue to lead 

the company, which will become part of 

LVMH’s watchmaking division, which is run 

by Frédéric Arnault. 

The company specialised in watch components 

and music boxes initially; however, it now 

primarily produces clocks. 

“L’Epée 1839 is a brand of mechanical objets 

d’art with an unrivalled and unique expertise,” 

Frédéric Arnault said. 

“I am excited by the untapped creative potential 

of the various LVMH Group maisons [brands] 

associated with this exceptional expertise.” 

In 2023, L’Epée 1839 worked with Tiffany & Co. to 

create a carriage clock in the shape of Formula 1 

cars from the 1950s. The collaboration coincided 

with the reopening of Tiffany’s New York City 

flagship store. 

The integration into LVMH’s watchmaking division 

will likely bring L’Epée 1839’s masterpieces 

to a broader audience, blending traditional 

craftsmanship with contemporary luxury. 

Watches of Switzerland CEO Brian Duffy 

has outlined plans to double profit and 

revenue by 2028. 

As of April, Watches of Switzerland has more 

than 220 showrooms across the UK, US and 

Europe, including dedicated brand-only stores 

in partnership with brands such as Rolex, 

Omega and TAG Heuer. 

The company recently reported a double-digit 

sales increase in the fourth quarter and a fullyear 

revenue rise of 6 per cent. It hasn’t been 

all smooth sailing; however, with a 40 per cent 

decline in pre-tax profit. 

Duffy said that despite the adverse economic 

climate, the company has continued to move 

from strength to strength over the past year. 

“We cemented our position as a leading 

international luxury watch and jewellery 

retailer and delivered further market share 

gains in both the UK and US, driven by our 

proven, differentiated business model,” he 

said. 

“In particular, our US business went from 

strength to strength, growing 11 per cent and 

will soon represent half of group sales. 

“The UK market is starting to show signs of 

stabilisation. In FY24, UK and Europe sales 

were down 5 per cent, impacted by significant 

price increases overall at a time of reduced 

consumer confidence influencing discretionary 

spending, and we see these pressures easing 

in FY25.” 

The company has maintained its guidance for 

the current financial year and described the 

outlook as 'cautiously optimistic'. 

Regarding long-range planning, Duffy said the 

mission is to double sales and profit by 2028. 

In May, Watches of Switzerland acquired 

distribution rights for jewellery brand Roberto 

Coin in the US. 

Swatch revenue decline highlights retail challenges in Asia 

The Swatch Group has reported a significant 

decline in revenue across the first six months 

of the financial year, which was attributed to 

economic challenges in Asia. 

Swatch, which oversees brands such as 

Blancpain, Harry Winston, Longines, 

Omega, and Tissot, reported a 10.7 per cent 

decline in revenue in the first half of the year. 

Comparatively, sales outside of China, Hong 

Kong, and Macau increased by 5.6 per cent 

between January and June on a two-year 

comparison. 

In a statement, the company said that the 

challenging economic climate particularly 

impacted luxury brands such as Blancpain 

and Omega. 

Conversely, the Swatch, Tissot, and Longines 

brands were resilient. The excitement around 

the latest addition to the MoonSwatch 

collection was also identified as a positive. 

“While the Greater Chinese market is set to 

remain challenging for luxury, Swatch Group 

felt the region’s potential ‘remains intact,’ with 

‘excellent opportunities for further growth 

and market share gains’ for its lower-priced 

brands,” writes Lily Templeton of WWD. 

“It deemed prospects in European 

countries ‘promising’ and predicted 

Omega would benefit from global media 

exposure as the official timekeeper of the 

2024 Paris Olympics.” 

She continued: “A cost-cutting program 

introduced in early 2024 was also expected 

to have a positive impact, particularly in the 

production segment.” 

The statement also highlighted the challenges 

of surpassing a record-breaking year in 2023. 


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News 

Diamond jewellery concerns 

for Brazil’s former president 

Former president of Brazil, Jair Bolsonaro, has 

been indicted for money laundering and criminal 

association in connection with undeclared 

diamond jewellery. 

In 2023, federal police investigated Bolsonaro and 

several military officials on suspicion of smuggling 

diamond jewellery into Brazil. 

The items in question, some of which were made by 

Chopard, included a diamond necklace, ring, watch, 

and earrings. 

These were given to Bolsonaro and former first lady 

Michelle Bolsonaro by the Saudi Arabian government. 

The diamond jewellery is estimated to be worth 

$USD3.2 million ($AUD4.75 million). 

“The indictment dramatically raises the stakes in 

a series of investigations into the divisive ex-leader 

applauded by his opponents but denounced as 

political persecution by his supporters,” writes 

Gabriela Sa Pessoa of the Sydney Morning Herald. 

“Bolsonaro and his lawyers have denied any 

wrongdoing related to the case, as well as the slew of 

investigations facing the former president.” 

Customs officials seized the items in October 2021 

when they were found in the luggage of a government 

aide returning from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. 

Brazil requires its citizens arriving by plane from 

abroad to declare goods worth more than $USD1,000 

and pay a tax equal to 50 per cent of their value on any 

amount above that exemption. 

The items would have been exempt from tax had 

they been a gift from Saudi Arabia to the people of 

Brazil; however, it’s alleged Bolsonaro intended to 

keep the jewellery. 

Federal police indicted Bolsonaro; however, Brazil's 

Supreme Court has yet to receive the police report. 

Prosecutor General Paulo Gonet Branco will analyse 

the document and decide whether to file charges and 

force Mr Bolsonaro to stand trial. 

Mystery surrounding Canadian gold heist continues 

There’s been another twist in the investigation 

of the heist of millions of dollars of gold from 

the Toronto Pearson Airport in April of the 

past year. 

Authorities now believe that the 6,600 gold bars 

- worth more than $CAN20 million ($AUD22.66 

million) – are likely overseas, potentially in 

Dubai or India. 

Lead investigator detective sergeant Mike 

Mavity said he believes the gold was melted 

down shortly after the heist. 

"We believe a large portion has gone overseas 

to markets that are flush with gold," he told 

CBC News. 

"That would be Dubai or India, where you 

can take gold with serial numbers on it, and 

they will still honour it and melt it down. And 

we believe that happened very shortly after 

the incident." 

Earlier this year, authorities charged nine 

people over the crime, which is the largest theft 

of gold in Canadian history. 

Investigators asserted that a truck driver 

arrived at the cargo warehouse with a 

fraudulent bill provided to an airline warehouse 

attendant. A bill collected the day before was 

used to claim the gold. 

Police previously attempted to connect the 

stolen gold and cross-border gun trafficking, 

making note of dozens of firearms seized from 

suspects in the investigation. 

Australia’s money laundering headache worsens 

Australia’s financial intelligence agency 

is increasingly concerned with the use of 

luxury jewellery and watches as a means for 

money laundering. 

The Australian Transaction Reports and 

Analysis Centre (AUSTRAC) monitors financial 

transactions to identify money laundering, 

organised crime, tax evasion, fraud and 

terrorism financing. 

In an interview, AUSTRAC chief executive 

Brendan Thomas said that criminals are 

increasingly turning to high-end watches and 

jewellery to launder money. 

“It’s a big problem,” he told The Australian 

Financial Review. 

“Luxury watches are a big source of people 

moving value around. 

"You can wear them, so you don’t have to worry 

about declaring carrying $10,000 worth of cash 

if you’re wearing $20,000 worth of diamonds on 

your wrist.” 

Authorities have given luxury goods, cash, and 

real estate the highest risk rating because they 

are highly effective for laundering money. 

In a highlighted example, a police raid in Sydney 

uncovered an extensive range of designer 

watches, including a diamond-studded 

timepiece valued at more than $1 million. 

Jeweller recently published a five-part series 

detailing proposed changes to Australia’s 

anti-money laundering and counter-terrorism 

financing regime, and the impact this reform 

would have on the jewellery industry. 

The Financial Action Task Force (FATF) 

recently slammed Australia with a scathing 

review, citing extensive non-compliance with 

international standards. 

Rachel Waldren, a financial crime partner at 

KordaMentha, said that with the following review 

expected in 2026, there would be little time to 

implement changes. 

“FATF will consider what has been implemented 

at the time they come and do their evaluation, 

which may give us a technical compliance but 

not effective compliance,” she said. 

“I think that exposes us to the grey listing.” 

A grey listing would place Australia in the same 

category as Haiti, Syria, South Sudan, and 

Yemen, among others. 


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News 

WA retailers benefit from 

new legal protection 

Western Australia has implemented new penalties 

for criminals targeting retailers. 

The laws were first proposed in February. A new 

‘assault retail workers’ offence will see criminals 

who attack retail staff facing up to seven years in 

prison or three years and a fine of $36,000. 

If an offender is armed or in the company of others, 

the penalty rises to 10 years imprisonment. 

“These tougher penalties send a strong message 

that violent behaviour towards staff simply doing 

their job won’t be tolerated," said WA Police 

Minister Paul Papalia. 

“WA Police do an incredible job tracking down 

shoplifters and holding them to account, but 

some serial offenders don’t get the message. 

Under these new laws, if shoplifters continue to 

disregard the law, they will go to prison.” 

Over the past 12 months, several brazen criminal 

acts targeting jewellery stores in WA have made 

national headlines. 

These include the daring daylight robbery of 

a Subiaco diamond jewellery store, a ramraid 

targeting a Prouds store in Kalgoorlie, and the 

robbery of more than 30 watches valued at $8,000 

by two teenage boys in Bunbury. 

Australian Retailers Association CEO Paul Zahra 

said retail employees deserve peace of mind. 

“All retail workers, whether they’re a casual in 

their first job or doing the night shift at the local 

convenience store, have a right to feel safe at 

work,” he said. 

“No one deserves to be spat on, threatened with 

weapons, intimidated or harassed for simply doing 

their job. People who engage in these types of 

behaviours are committing a crime – it’s as simple 

as that.” 

Under these new laws, repeat offenders charged 

with multiple low-level stealing offences also face 

potential jail time. 

The WA government has removed the ‘fine only’ 

penalty for those convicted of stealing or attempted 

stealing when they have two or more prior 

convictions for similar crimes in the past year. 

Serial thieves will instead face a maximum penalty 

of two years imprisonment and a $24,000 fine. 

Enough is enough: New Zealand retailers demand help 

The New Zealand government has announced 

upcoming reforms to address severe retail 

crime; however, industry representatives say it 

doesn’t go far enough. 

Justice Minister Paul Goldsmith has revealed 

a series of reforms to improve New Zealand’s 

criminal justice system's response to 

criminals targeting retailers. 

The reforms include the introduction of a new 

aggravating factor to address offences against 

workers whose homes and businesses are 

interconnected. 

“This announcement is just one part of the 

Government’s extensive action to restore law 

and order,” a statement reads. 

“We are delivering 500 additional Police and 

giving them more powers to go after criminal 

gangs, speeding up court processes, restoring 

Three Strikes legislation, establishing militarystyle 

academies and creating a Serious 

Young Offender category to make powerful 

interventions in the lives of young offenders.” 

Earlier this year, dramatic footage of a security 

guard helplessly watching on as criminals 

ransacked a Michael Hill store on New 

Zealand’s North Island made international 

headlines. 

Partridge Jewellers in Newmarket, an upscale 

retail district of Auckland, was also robbed 

twice in nine days in April. 

Retail NZ CEO Carolyn Young said that with 

crime affecting 92 per cent of retailers in 

New Zealand and annual costs exceeding 

$NZ2 billion, these changes aren’t enough. 

"This doesn't go far enough. Almost every 

retail worker has been affected by crime 

and aggression, whether they are sole 

charge or not," Young said in a statement. 

"On a daily basis, retailers of all sizes are 

dealing with threatening, violent, or simply 

unpleasant customers, who are trying to 

steal or damage their property." 

In June, a Papatoetoe jewellery store owner 

who was hit on the head with a hammer during 

a violent armed robbery suffered a fractured 

skull. 

A spokesperson for the family who owns the 

business said that it was a stark reminder that 

New Zealand is becoming a ‘very violent and 

dangerous society’, adding that crime was out 

of control and needed to be stopped. 

Changing faces: Major brands appoint new CEOs 

Richemont has appointed Louis Ferla as the 

new CEO of the Cartier jewellery brand. 

Ferla began his career at Richemont in 2001 

as a sales manager in Hong Kong. He joined 

Cartier in 2006 and held various roles in the 

Middle East, India, Africa, and China. 

In 2017, Ferla became CEO of the watch brand 

Vacheron Constantin. He will now succeed 

Cyrille Vigneron, who plans to retire on 1 

September after eight years in the role. 

“[Ferla] has earned the admiration and 

respect of his colleagues across the group, 

and of the industry at large for having so 

brilliantly positioned Vacheron Constantin 

at the pinnacle of haute horlogerie,” said 

Richemont chairman Johann Rupert. 

“His experience and leadership qualities 

will prove invaluable for Cartier’s longterm 

success.” 

Richemont has also appointed Catherine 

Rénier as CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, 

succeeding Nicolas Bos. In her new role, 

which begins on 1 September, Rénier will 

report to Bos, who is taking over as CEO of 

Richemont. 

“She brings the perfect mix of experience and 

leadership skills to the role, which, coupled 

with her deep knowledge of the maison 

[brand], will enable her to ensure Van Cleef & 

Arpels’s long-term success,” said Bos. 

Rénier joined the company in 1999, working as 

a director for Cartier in the US before joining 

Van Cleef & Arpels as a manager. In 2018, she 

worked for Jaeger-LeCoultre. 


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News 

Richemont revenue stable despite 

adverse economic climate 

Swiss luxury goods company Richemont has reported largely unchanged 

sales for the first quarter of the financial year. Sales increased by 1 per cent 

to €5.27 billion ($AUD9.35 billion) for the three months ending in June. 

Revenue increased by 10 per cent in the Americas and 5 per cent 

in Europe. Japan was the strongest improver, with sales rising by 

59 per cent. A notable decline in China offset these positive results. 

Sales among jewellery brands – including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, 

and Buccellati – increased by 4 per cent, while watch brands declined 

by 13 per cent. 

“All regions delivered growth except for Asia Pacific, where sales 

contracted by 18 per cent, as higher sales in South Korea and Malaysia 

only partially mitigated a 27 per cent decline in China, Hong Kong and 

Macau combined,” the company said in a statement. 

Richemont recently announced a significant management change, 

with Nicolas Bos appointed CEO. Louis Ferla is the new head of Cartier, 

while Catherine Rénier will succeed Bos at Van Cleef & Arpels. 

“Richemont gives its CEOs wide but not complete autonomy in how 

they run the brands under their charge with the idea that the group is 

there to take care of support systems and let its stars lead in terms of 

what the brands produce and how they sell the brand and the products,” 

writes James Gurney of WatchPro. 

“In practice, the group is an ever-present party to decisions, even down 

to peer review of product decisions.” 

He continued: “It’s this tendency, shared by LVMH and the Swatch Group, 

that’s often used to account for the gap in growth numbers that now exist 

between the groups and the big independents, the idea being that the 

laser-like focus towards a single purpose that the likes of Richard Mille 

can deploy sits in stark contrast to the unwieldy apparatus of a group.” 

Earlier this month, it was reported that LVMH owner Bernard Arnault 

has taken an equity stake in Richemont. 

Swarovski announces newly acquired 

high-profile brand ambassador 

Austria-based jewellery company 

Swarovski has named Ariana Grande 

as its new brand ambassador. The 

Grammy-winning singer and 

actress will star in the company’s 

upcoming holiday campaign. 

Grande’s partnership with Swarovski 

follows the release of her seventh 

studio album in March, and she said 

the brand’s emphasis on self-expression 

was admirable. 

Official Timing Partner 

Luminox Red Bull 

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“It’s an honour to represent a house that shares my passion for 

creativity, pushes the boundaries beyond the world of jewellery, and 

promotes values of unapologetic self-expression,” Grande said. 

“I cannot wait to embark on this journey and to inspire others to 

embrace their own unique sparkle.” 

The company reported a 4 per cent increase in sales over the past 

financial year, with a 6 per cent rise in jewellery sales specifically. 

Swarovski jewellery is retailed from 63 brand-only stores in Australia 

and via a range of stockists (independent jewellery stores). 

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News 

Rising revenue highlights memorable 

year for Michael Hill International 

Michael Hill International has announced a revenue increase across 

the second half of the financial year despite contrasting results 

across key markets. 

Sales in Australia improved by 12 per cent, countering declines in 

New Zealand (12 per cent) and Canada (1.6 per cent). Revenue in the 

second half ($AUD278.6 million) increased by 4.9 per cent. Full-year 

sales finished with a 3.8 per cent rise to $AUD641.4 million. 

CEO Daniel Bracken said these sales figures were pleasing due to 

difficult trading conditions. 

“While challenging economic conditions have persisted across 

all markets throughout the year, particularly in the fine jewellery 

segment, the group has continued to outperform the category, with a 

focus on retail fundamentals and execution of its clearly articulated 

strategies,” he said. 

Bracken noted the opening of a flagship store in Chadstone and the 

appointment of Miranda Kerr as brand ambassador as key highlights. 

The retailer also reported a double-digit increase in digital sales over 

the past year. Michael Hill operates more than 170 stores in Australia 

and around 300 worldwide. 

Jewellery retailer changes terminology 

US-based Signet Jewelers will now refer to previously used 

precious metals products as ‘repurposed’ rather than ‘recycled.’ 

This is a notable shift in terminology away from a common but 

controversial term. 

There is no commonly accepted definition for recycled gold, and its 

use has generated criticism in the past because of ambiguity. 

A spokesperson for Signet Jewelers told JCK Online that 

because gold is rarely a waste product, the word ‘recycled’ 

was deemed inappropriate. 

“Signet aligned on using repurposed as our terminology and not 

using recycled because recycled should really only apply to products 

intentionally diverted from a waste stream,” the spokesperson said. 

“And gold is rarely, if ever, part of a waste stream.” 

A statement from the Precious Metals Impact Forum, 

based in Switzerland, recently addressed the controversy 

surrounding the terminology. 

It outlined the issues with differing industry standards for the term, 

which generally relates to gold sourced from secondary materials 

such as industrial/electronic waste and jewellery scrap. 

“Establishing clear guidelines for recycled gold is crucial 

for distinguishing it from newly mined gold and ensuring its 

responsible sourcing,” it reads. 

“However, divergent interpretations and conflicting interests 

have fueled a contentious debate within the gold industry. 

Disagreements over what constitutes recycled gold have hindered 

progress towards implementing standardised practices and 

regulations and detract from addressing more pressing issues 

within the gold sector.” 

In a similar shift, Signet announced a change in approach to labcreated 

diamonds in June..

10 Years Ago 

Time Machine: August 2014 

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller. 

Historic Headlines 

Swarovski’s Lola and Grace lands in Oz 

Bevilles opens first new store since collapse 

Jewellery found by mountain treasure hunter 

De Beers increases accessibility to its rough diamond 

Coloured diamond dealer expands into jewellery 

World’s largest synthetic 

diamond created 

Pure Grown Diamonds, the US-based synthetic 

diamond company formerly known as Gemesis, 

claims it has broken the record for the world’s 

largest lab-created diamond. 

The company’s latest record-setter is a 3-carat, 

K coloured round brilliant-cut synthetic diamond, 

with SI1 clarity. 

This is not the first time Pure Grown Diamonds 

has stated that it has developed the world’s 

largest synthetic diamond. In April last year it was 

said to have created a 1.29-carat E coloured, VVS2 

emerald-cut diamond, which was then trumped 

by a 1.78-carat, G coloured, SI1 clarity princesscut 

stone in November. 

The company’s newly appointed president and 

CEO Lisa Bissell said, “We are ecstatic to once 

again celebrate technology and innovation in 

grown diamonds. It is very gratifying to break our 

own records and reach the 3-carat milestone.” 

JAA Code of Conduct 

complaints on the rise 

The Jewellers Association of Australia has 

released its annual Code of Conduct report, 

showing that there were three times as many 

complaints handled this year than in the previous 

corresponding period. 

In the year ended 30 June 2014, the Jewellers 

Association of Australia (JAA) Code committee 

dealt with 13 complaints, with seven relating 

to the conduct of JAA members and six referring 

to non-members. 

All of the complaints were from industry 

members – none were from consumers. 

The Code of Conduct (the Code) was developed 

during 2009 and 2010 and aims to provide the 

industry with guidance on how to comply with 

consumer and trade practice law. 

August 2014 

ON THE COVER Trollbeads 

Editor’s Desk 

Musings of an unlicensed publisher 

Many years ago I was given the task 

to redesign a magazine for another 

professional body. It was in dire need 

of a complete overhaul and the 

magazine’s reposition was part of 

the re-branding of the entire industry. 

Back then the particular profession was 

suffering from the same issues to which 

the jewellery industry suffers today. You 

see, believe it or not, you don’t need to be 

licensed to call yourself an accountant – 

anyone can start an accounting business! 

Soapbox 

Give a jewellery apprentice a go 

I know there are some jewellers who 

haven’t contemplated taking on an 

apprentice and to them I can only say that 

it’s been really beneficial for my business, 

something I believe is key to securing our 

industry’s future. The trade is changing 

but our ability to design and make 

jewellery within a timely manner that 

suits the tastes of local consumers will 

be our saviour from overseas competition, 

and it’s not just storeowners who have 

the ability to support young jewellers. 

Stephen Dibb 

Stephen Dibb Jewellery 

STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON 

“Selling jewellery these days takes a lot 

more than a pretty face. In an era where 

social media reigns supreme, the job of a 

brand ambassador is far more complex 

than simply looking good.” 

READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON 

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM 

Diamond dealer Storch & 

Co placed in administration 

In another blow to the local jewellery industry, 

Sydney-based diamond dealer Storch & Co has 

entered voluntary administration. 

The news comes just two weeks after the 

surprise announcement that Miller Diamonds 

was placed in liquidation and has since closed. 

Adam Shepard, from specialist insolvency firm 

Farnsworth Shepard, was appointed official 

administrator on Thursday 31 July. 

Shepard told Jeweller that, “At the moment it’s 

business as usual. Storch & Co is still trading 

and a creditors’ meeting is scheduled for 

Tuesday 12 July.” 

Pandora jewellery sued for 

stock losses 

A group of Pandora shareholders is suing 

the Danish jewellery company for losses they 

claim to have experienced as a result of a late 

profit warning. 

Deminor, the Belgium-based legal consultancy 

that is representing the group of 36 investors, 

stated in a press release that the lawsuit referred 

to the profit warning released by Pandora on 2 

August 2011 when the company “significantly 

downgraded” its 2011 margins guidance for 

revenue and earnings before interest, taxes, 

depreciation and amortisation (EBITDA). 

Pandora had originally expected a sales rise of at 

least 30 per cent and an EBITDA margin of at least 

40 per cent; in its profit warning this was revised 

to a zero increase and an EBITDA margin of 31 per 

cent to 34 per cent. 

According to the Deminor release, Pandora 

investors were seeking compensation due to the 

fact that following the profit warning, “the stock 

price of Pandora lost 65.35 per cent in a single 

trading day, which resulted in the destruction of 

DKK 12.5 billion (AU$2.4 b) of market value”. 


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SCAN FOR INFO 

Gem-Ed Australia 

ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY 

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts 

and consumers about gemstones

REVIEW 

Gems 

Gemmologists who changed the game: 

Bill Hicks 

William H (Bill) Hicks was a formidable 

driving force behind the publication and 

success of The Australian Gemmologist. 

Hicks was a gemmologist who, after completing 

his studies with the Gemmological Association 

of Australia (GAA), dedicated over a decade of 

his life to the development of The Australian 

Gemmologist. 

His professional background in the publishing 

industry, as a part of the third-generation 

publishing firm Hicks Smith & Son, made him 

an incredible asset to the editorial team. He 

was officially appointed editor of the publication 

in August of 1981 by the Melbourne-based 

editorial committee. 

"As our association is run on a voluntary basis, 

The Australian Gemmologist was indeed 

fortunate to be able to attract an experienced 

publisher of the calibre of Bill Hicks to act as 

its Editor", reflected Grahame Brown in the 

November 1993 edition of the publication. 

Hicks worked diligently over the next 12 years 

editing, re-writing papers by hand and preparing 

layouts. This was no small feat in a time before 

widespread computer processing, with the 

re-writing and editing of documents being 

completed by Hicks on his typewriter. 

In 1982, Hicks introduced selected colour 

printing throughout the publication as visual 

aids to support relevant articles. Previously, 

colour printing had been reserved solely for 

the cover. 

Hicks was dedicated to the improvement of 

the journal while also being pragmatic about 

decreasing the rising costs of publishing a 

comprehensive, quality journal. Under Hicks' 

guidance, by 1983, The Australian Gemmologist 

reported readership across 30 countries. 

Brown, who worked alongside Hicks, 

explained, “He unobtrusively yet positively 

guided our quarterly journal to its current 

status as a refereed scientific journal of 

gemmology of world standard.” 

His dedication to the journal was made 

possible by his wife, Rose Hicks, who 

assisted as secretary. 

Accounts of Bill Hicks preparing the journal for publishing from Athens and Florence is a testament to his unwavering 

dedication to The Australian Gemmologist. 

The couple loved to travel, though they never let 

this get in the way of publishing the journal. 

Accounts of Hicks preparing the journal for 

publishing from Athens and Florence is a 

testament to his unwavering dedication to 

the publication. 

Through his role as editor and involvement 

with the GAA, he made many friends in the 

field of gemmology, including Richard W 

Hughes and Eduard Gübelin, whom he met 

during his travels. 

After a brave battle with leukemia, Hicks 

died in November 1993, leaving behind 

his wife Rose and son Doug. A dedication 

from Brown was published in the May 1994 

edition of The Australian Gemmologist. 

“It is my belief that all members of the 

Gemmological Association of Australia owe 

Rose, and the late Bill Hicks, thanks (quite 

inadequate recognition) for the hours, days, 

weeks, and years of unselfish work, under 

mostly inconvenient conditions, they devoted 

to editing and publishing our journal; as well 

as raising the quality of its content to that of a 

journal of world standing”. 

In 1991, the GAA made Hicks an honorary 

life member in recognition of his significant 

contribution to the association and The 

Australian Gemmologist. 

After his death, the W.H. Hicks Prize was 

founded in his honour. 

The GAA Federal Council may award this prize 

annually or biennially to an author in Australia 

for the best paper published in The Australian 

Gemmologist. 

Voting for the award takes place by an 

independent selection panel appointed 

by the editor and editorial committee. 

It is due to the extraordinary efforts of Hicks 

that The Australian Gemmologist has become 

an internationally recognised gemmological 

publication of the highest standard. 

Teaghan Hall is a fine art graduate with a 

specialised interest in antique jewellery. She works 

in the antique jewellery trade and has written for 

various industry publications while studying with 

the Gemmological Association of Australia. 

For more information on gems and gemmology, 

visit www.gem.org.au 


DESIGN 


Regions: 


Designer: 


Colors used: 



Part Number: 




Design Notes: 

PRODUCTION 








ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION 

A Time to Thrive 

Watchmaking is an industry that prides itself on heritage and 

tradition. SAMUEL ORD takes a closer look at a watch brand 

with a remarkable history. 

In a business as fiercely competitive 

as watchmaking, identity and brand 

perception are crucial to success. 

Consumers are searching for reliability. Timepieces 

are typically a significant investment, and consumers 

will happily spend more in exchange for the 

knowledge that this money has been well-spent. 

A clear identity affords consumers this confidence. 

It sets expectations so consumers know what 

products and services they are paying for. A 

compelling identity drives customer loyalty, 

encouraging repeat purchases and brand advocacy. 

These are important principles in the world of luxury 

watches and a reflection on the fascinating history 

of Timex highlights the many changes in identity a 

brand may experience. 

It's also important to note that just as many people 

experience an ‘identity crisis’ at one stage or another, 

so do brands. 

Sometimes, it’s a matter of trying to be ‘everything 

to everyone’. Pursuing new audiences and target 

markets is always admirable; however, the result 

is often mixed messaging. The worst-case scenario 

is that a new approach fails to capture the attention 

of new consumers while simultaneously alienating 

once-loyal fans. 

Other brands become too attached to fleeting 

trends, committing to a new value or style based 

on the latest flavour of the month. When the tide 

turns, as is so often the case in today’s digital age, 

these brands find themselves out of favour. 

The pitfalls of mixed messaging for brands are 

easy to understand. Looking at this topic from 

another angle, how does a brand find its identity? 

There are many factors to consider; however, what 

matters most are the traits that characterise the 

brand and its products and the factors that set it 

apart from competitors. 

Understanding who the 

brand serves guides 

messaging and product 

offerings, and reinforcing 

the brand’s history, values, and 

experiences forges an emotional 

connection with consumers. 

In other words, it’s a matter of identifying the 

brand’s unique characteristics and building around 

them. Finding the strengths — what truly attracts 

customers to these products — and making them 

the focal point. 

History and craftsmanship are often key ingredients 

in watch brands. Heritage creates a sense of prestige 

and authority that resonates with consumers. 

This year marks the 170th anniversary of Timex, 

and it’s a brand with a powerful story to tell. 

Good things take time 

Timex began in Connecticut in 1854 as the Waterbury 

Clock Company. Along with other manufacturers in 

the river valley, it produced inexpensive watches 

that could compete with luxury European models of 

the era. 

One of the company's significant early achievements 

was the introduction of the Yankee Pocket Watch, 

which sold for just $1 in 1901. 

The company solidified its position as the budgetfriendly 

option for timepieces, and it was often 

jokingly said that this was the “pocket watch that 

made the dollar famous.” 

These events shaped the company’s initial identity 

– affordable and high-quality watches for everyday 

men and women. 

In 1914, the First World War broke out in Europe, 

and wristwatches became an intriguing proposition. 

Before the early 1900s, wristwatches were viewed as 

jewellery and considered feminine – so they weren’t 

commonly worn by men. 

This perception changed because of the conflict. 

When a soldier needed to know the time, digging for 

a pocket watch was inconvenient. A women’s watch 

made by Ingersoll and Waterbury was modified to 

meet this sudden spike in demand. 

In 1933, Waterbury announced a new deal with 

Disney to produce Mickey Mouse watches and 

clocks. This quickly became the company’s first 

million-dollar line. Once again, the company’s 

identity was significantly altered. 

The company was renamed The United States 

Time Corporation in 1944. During the Second World 

War, it supplied precision timers for bomb fuses. 

During this era, the first limited run of the Timex 

label was used; however, it wouldn’t become a wellknown 

brand until 1950. 

During the 1950s, the brand renewed its focus 

on affordability. It was determined to be the 

cheapest watch on the market, supported by clever 

manufacturing techniques spurred on by wartime 

necessity. 

Timex became known as the “watch that takes 

a licking and keeps on ticking.” Marketing 

campaigns showed the watches being submitted to 

‘torture tests’ to highlight the product's durability. 

These campaigns were a success, and in the early 

1960s, it was said that every third watch sold in the 

US was a Timex. In 1969, the company officially 

changed its name to the Timex Corporation. 

These glory days would not last forever; however, the 

brand soon faced renewed challenges to its identity 

and public perception. 

Established as the 

Waterbury Clock 

Company 

First Dollar Pocket 

Watch 

First Wrist Watch 

Marlin Watch Survices 

the Lobster Test 

Made for Her 

Introducing Quartz 

Movement 


In the early 1970s, the ‘Quartz Crisis’ revolutionised 

the watch industry. The arrival of inexpensive 

mechanical watches from Asia was a blow to Timex. 

After spending decades cementing a reputation for 

affordability, the brand was devastated by cheaper 

models with more reliable technology. 

With its identity undermined by overseas competitors, 

Timex eventually laid off thousands of employees. In 

search of a resurgence, the brand pivoted again — 

this time to sports. 

The release of the Ironman Triathlon watch 

was popular because it was innovative, reliable, 

and inexpensive. 

Over the coming decades, Timex would continue to 

innovate, developing proprietary technology such as 

Indiglo which was introduced into their timepieces in 

1992, and introduced the first smartwatch, the 

Timex Datalink in 1994 - paving the way for a 

whole new category of watches. 

Welcome to Australia 

Timex has been distributed in Australia by Designa 

Accessories for more than 20 years. It was already 

in the Australian market at this time, and with an 

expanding array of international brands to choose 

from, the charm of ‘affordability’ had been erased 

and replaced with harsher connotations. 

Many consumers viewed Timex products as the type 

of watch that belonged on the shelf of a discount 

chemist. It was a far cry from the prestige a brand 

with more than 170 years of history should demand. 

Designa Accessories general manager Ivan Meys 

says that he knew his work was cut out for him 

when the partnership began. 

“When we took on the brand, we knew that we 

were facing an uphill battle to change the brand's 

perception in the local market,” Meys reveals. 

“The first thing we focused on was elevating 

distribution. We wanted the right people to see the 

brand in the right places, so we focused on moving it 

into department stores and mainstream jewellers.” 

As mentioned, the brand had previously found 

success with the Ironman Triathalon watch, and 

in the years that followed, the focus remained on 

producing these athletic, sports-driven products. 

In the 2000s, that identity would once again 

be challenged, this time by the emergence 

of products such as Fitbit, Garmin, and other 

smartwatch options. Consumers were increasingly 

demanding more features in a small space, and 

Timex struggled to compete. 

“It was around that time that the decision was 

made to lead aggressively into the heritage 

side of the brand,” Meys says. 

“It took a few years to change course, and many 

difficult decisions had to be made. We needed to 

cease offering many of our best sellers because they 

weren’t offering consistent brand messaging. 

"This was difficult for many people 

to accept.” 

He continues: “Timex started to look 

back at their archives and retrieve 

some best-selling historical styles. 

It was about turning the 

focus to the kind of time-keeping 

and watchmaking expertise that 

has served the brand well for more 

than 150 years.” 

Back to the future 

For Timex, the mission was to identify 

the styles of yesterday that would 

define the products of tomorrow. 

These watches would secure the 

brand’s relevance because they 

had previously shown that they 

were capable of withstanding the 

test of time. Iconic franchises such 

as the Waterbury, Marlin, Q Timex, and Expedition 

North quickly became focal points of this new 

strategy because of their crucial roles in the 

brand’s history. 

The original Marlin watches first appeared in 

the 1950s and became a centrepiece of Timex’s 

collection during the 1960s. It’s common for most 

watch brands to change a few specific retails during 

a rerelease to appease the market's prevailing 

sentiments. Timex didn’t do this with the Marlin. 

“When discussing the brand's repositioning, it’s 

tough to look past the instrumental influence 

of the Marlin,” Meys explains. 

“It’s a 1960s archive re-release that has evolved 

into a product pillar for the brand. It’s got a 

remarkable vintage aesthetic, and it bridges the 

gap between the ultra-premium positioning that 

Timex is capable of and that commercial 

affordability that the business is renowned for.” 

The other model of particular interest was the 

Q Timex, which has many stylistic features 

reminiscent of the late 1970s and early 1980s. 

The product was named to signify the end of 

mechanical movement and the brand’s embrace 

of quartz. The reissue is a faithful rendition, 

maintaining the 'Q' below the 12 o'clock position, 

with an era-appropriate stainless-steel bracelet. 

It's an eye-catching piece with a diver-inspired style. 

“The Q Timex re-release is a very true representation 

of the original product, right down to the battery 

hatch of the back,” Meys says. 

“It’s got the aluminium bezel and the navy blue dial 

paired with a stainless steel bracelet and case, and it 

was successful right out of the gate. 

“It’s another example of how the style and design 

of these products has evolved to become a pillar of 

the brand.” 

Best is yet to come 

Over the past 170 years, Timex's brand identity 

has evolved to reflect the world around it. Now that 

the brand has settled on an image that reflects its 

colourful and extensive legacy of watchmaking, 

Meys is confident that Timex's resurgence in 

popularity is here to stay. 

“I really do think we’re at the tip of the iceberg for 

Timex,” Meys says. 

“With the correct segmentation and channel 

strategy, I’m confident we can offer an even 

broader collection than we do today. 

“The most important thing, in my opinion, 

is making sure that we have the right 

communication strategy and that we are 

telling the story of the brand effectively. 

"We need to be careful and not try to be 

everything to everyone all in one place.” 

The story began with the pocket watch, which 

brought ‘democracy to time’. 

During the First and Second World Wars, it was a 

reliable way for soldiers to tell the time in a pinch. 

As the global economy recovered during 

the post-war boom in the 1950s, Timex 

successfully reinvented itself as the world’s 

most affordable timepiece. 

These advances were erased during the 1970s 

and 1980s, with the Quartz Crisis forcing the 

company to reinvent itself again. 

Now, with smartwatches dominating that market, 

Timex has finally settled on a truly unique identity – 

a brand not defined by external forces but by its 

own 170 years of history. 

It’s an important reminder that in a world where 

you can be anything, you should always choose to 

be yourself. 

First Sport Watch 

Made Time Glow in 

the Dark 

Shot into Space Designed in Milan Brought Watchmaking 

Back Home 

Entered the Metaverse 

First Circular Watch 

Program 


BALLET 


jewellery and watch brands. (02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au

MARKETING FEATURE 

Watching the Stars 

RICHARD MILLE 

RAFAEL NADAL 

How much influence do trendsetters have on consumer purchasing patterns 

regarding jewellery and watches? SAMUEL ORD explores the effectiveness 

of watch brand marketing using celebrities.



AU +61 2 8543 4600 NZ +64 9 480 2211 | designaaccessories.com.au

FEATURE | WATCH SALES & STAR POWER 

I 

t’s easy to understand why consumer 

brands use celebrity endorsement as a 

marketing strategy. 

While it’s nothing new, jewellery and watch 

brands are increasingly pursuing collaborations 

with famous people. 

Celebrities and trendsetters – whether they 

be actors, musicians, athletes or otherwise 

– often had a far-reaching fan base and 

established media presence. 

By associating a particular jewellery or watch 

brand with that celebrity, the hope is that 

increased exposure and visibility among those 

fans or followers will translate to sales. 

An association with a respected or admired 

trendsetter can elevate a brand’s value and 

desirability among consumers. It’s an implicit 

endorsement and a promise to the consumer. 

They are told that because a person they 

admire trusts this brand’s quality, style, and 

craftsmanship, so should the consumer. 

Arguably, the most critical factor in these 

partnerships is the penetration of new markets. 

Celebrities with global appeal and fans from 

diverse corners can introduce previously 

unknown brands to a worldwide audience of 

potential consumers. 

With that said, does celebrity endorsement 

always work and is it wise? 

Jeweller set out to answer this question by 

asking jewellery retailers and designers if 

they feel that these endorsements impact the 

purchasing habits of their customers. 

ROLEX 

PAUL NEWMAN 

Unsurprisingly, the results were as fascinating 

as they were mixed. 

Many jewellers passionately argued in favour 

of this marketing strategy, suggesting they 

tapped into consumers' innate desire to 

follow in the footsteps of those they admire. 

" Celebrities with global appeal 

and fans from diverse corners can 

introduce previously unknown 

brands to a worldwide audience of 

potential consumers. With that said, 

does celebrity endorsement always 

work and is it wise? " 

Others were less accepting of convention and 

felt that serious questions had to be asked 

about the effectiveness of this approach. 

Many contributors felt that modern consumers 

have such a refined sense of self and personal 

taste that they are simply less susceptible to this 

method of advertising. 

While they may ‘borrow’ looks here and there 

from certain trendsetters, at the end of the day, 

they still want to look unique. 

Personalisation is, of course, a common talking 

point in the jewellery industry today. Another 

issue raised was the gulf between ‘red carpet’ 

jewellery and those sold in Australian stores. 

Namely, while consumers may admire these 

figures and wish to emulate their appearance, 

the jewellery celebrities wear is often worth 

thousands, if not millions, of dollars. 

Said another way, consumers may desire 

this jewellery; however, they can’t afford it. 

This raises an intriguing question: Do the 

same arguments arise concerning celebrity 

endorsements of watch brands? 

Pillar of the industry 

TAG HEUER 

STEVE MCQUEEN 

The watch industry has been blessed with many 

iconic partnerships between famous figures and 

brands throughout history. 

The relationship between Paul Newman and 

Rolex requires little explanation. The Rolex 

Daytona ‘Paul Newman’ is one of the most 

iconic and sought watches, named after the 

legendary actor and racer. 

Newman, an actor and racing car enthusiast, 

was gifted a Rolex Daytona reference 6239 by 

his wife, Joanne Woodward, in the late 1960s. 

This model had a distinctive dial design. 

The Rolex Daytona gained immense popularity 

among collectors due to Newman wearing 

it regularly on and off the silver screen. 

His association with the watch contributed 

significantly to its iconic status. 

Steve McQueen has also been instrumental in 

promoting the watch industry. 

TAG Heuer's Monaco watch gained fame after 

Steve McQueen wore it in the 1971 film Le Mans, 

leading to a lasting association. 



WORDPLAY 

Definition Rundown 

» Celebrity Endorsement: A marketing 

strategy that uses a celebrity's fame and 

image to promote a brand or product. 

» Brand Collaboration: A mutually beneficial 

partnership between two or more businesses 

that work together to create an experience, 

product or service to achieve a common goal. 

» Brand Ambassador: A person who represents 

and advertises a company, supports its offers 

and acts as the embodiment of the company's 

corporate identity through words and actions. 

» Influencer: Someone who works with a 

brand short-term and may not have used a 

brand's products prior to marketing them. 

» Key Distinctions: Brand Ambassadors have 

established relationships with the brand or 

business they are promoting. Influencers are 

chosen for their direct audience reach. 

OMEGA 

DANIEL CRAIG 

The distinctive square-shaped case and 

blue dial of the Monaco became instantly 

recognisable, in large part due to its appearance 

on McQueen's wrist. 

Even after McQueen's passing in 1980, the 

popularity of the TAG Heuer Monaco has 

continued. TAG Heuer frequently celebrates 

this association through special editions and 

campaigns that pay tribute to McQueen and 

the Monaco. 

Few watch brands can say they’re the official 

timepiece of the world’s most famous spy. 

Omega has been able to make this bold claim 

since 1995, when Pierce Brosnan, playing James 

Bond in Goldeneye, wore the Omega Seamaster 

Professional Diver 300M. 

Following the film's success, Omega and the 

James Bond franchise established a partnership. 

The brand became the official watch of James 

Bond films. 

It’s difficult to question the success of these 

campaigns; however, have contemporary 

variations of these projects been a triumph? 

Reaching consumers through the media, 

global audiences have been bombarded with 

celebrity endorsements in recent years. Have 

they been effective? 

Industry analyst Jamie Weiss of Time and Time 

says that the specifics of the product and target 

audience are crucial. 

“It depends on the brand and it depends on the 

influencer. There’s no doubt in my mind that 

some watch brands have benefitted massively 

from savvy relationships - Tudor and David 

Beckham or IWC with Lewis Hamilton spring to 

mind,” Weiss explains. 

“Celebrities have influenced the watch world 

for a long time. The reason the now-iconic ‘Paul 

Newman’ Daytona is so expensive at auction is 

because of its connection to someone famous, 

not the craft or level of watchmaking involved in 

its production.” 

" Some customers view celebrity 

endorsements as inauthentic 

because it’s clear the trendsetter 

is paid to support the brand. This 

financial motivation calls into 

question how much the person 

genuinely likes them. " 

That said, Weiss says that it’s not a simple 

process for watch brands. In other words, 

celebrities aren’t a shortcut to credibility with 

consumers. 

Some customers view celebrity endorsements 

as inauthentic because it’s clear the trendsetter 

is being paid to support the brand. This 

financial motivation to support the products 

calls into question how much the person 

genuinely likes them. 

Others have concerns about overcommercialisation. 

When celebrities endorse too many brands and 

products, it can dilute the impact of their voice. 

If the ambassador’s image or behaviour 

conflicts with the brand's supposed identity 

or the consumer's values, it can create a 

negative perception. 

Finally, some consumers value independent 

decision-making and don’t want to feel like 

they’re being herded to products like sheep, 

with the trendsetter playing the role of a 

well-fed farm dog. 

“Some enthusiasts are extremely turned off by 

overt celebrity or influencer endorsements,” 

Weiss explains. 

“It’s a classic marketing conundrum: influencers 

might help attract a new audience to watches; 

however, they also alienate established 

enthusiasts.” 

Change in the air 

Over the past decade, endorsements 

between celebrities and watch brands 

appear to have increased. 

Notable examples include the collaboration 

between Omega and actor George Clooney, who 

has worn the brand publicly for many years. 

Tennis legend Roger Federer collaborated with 

Rolex to create special editions, while rival 

Rafael Nadal has endorsed Richard Mille. 


BALLET 

Since 1962, Duraflex Group Australia have been proudly 

distributing international jewellery and watch brands. 

Since 1962, 

(02) 

Duraflex 

9417 

Group 

0177 | 

Australia 

www.dgau.com.au 

have been proudly distributing international 



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IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN 

BRADLEY COOPER 

While the association between watch brands and 

tennis is long-standing, these companies have 

also branched out and forged connections in 

new markets. 

Hublot, a luxury Swiss watchmaker, has a notable 

partnership with Usain Bolt, the legendary 

Jamaican sprinter. NBA icon LeBron James 

partnered with Audemars Piguet in 2011. 

In terms of actors, Bradley Cooper is associated 

with IWC Schaffhausen and is often seen wearing 

the brand at significant events. TAG Heuer 

partnered with Cara Delevingne and Bulgari 

with Bella Hadid. 

Frank Geelen of Monochrome Watches says that 

the success of each project in raising the profile 

of these brands should be judged on a case-bycase 

basis. 

“While watch collaborations ‘can’ from time to 

time create more visibility for brands, reaching 

an audience surrounding the personality 

collaborating with them,” he tells Jeweller. 

“With that said, these brands remain interesting 

to an audience that is [already] interested in 

watches to start with. I don’t think collaborations 

with influencers and celebrities are able to 

properly attract people that have no experience 

with or interest in watches to start with.” 

Geelen predicts that watch brands will move 

away from this strategy moving forward. 

“In 2023, we've seen a lot of different 

collaborations, both with celebrities as well 

as with influencers or media, and I think 

that collaborations with influencers and 

media will slow down.” 

Nick Hall of Man of Many was interested in this 

topic. 

He suggests that these collaborations say more 

about modern consumers than they do about the 

direction of watch brands. 

“In my opinion, collaborations with influencers 

probably say less about watch brands and more 

about the evolution of celebrity in the age of 

social media,” he explains. 

“We're certainly seeing more watch brands 

collaborate with influencers on bespoke pieces 

in recent years, similar to how sneaker brands 

leverage celebrity appeal; however, it's yet to 

fully take hold. 

“Most collaborative releases have been wellthought 

and implemented by people who really 

know and appreciate the art of watchmaking.” 

Dreams of the yesterday’s glory 

The legacy status of Rolex and TAG Heuer, 

aided by Newman and McQueen, is 

undoubtedly the envy of the watch world. 

It’s almost like the ‘passive income’ of the 

marketing discipline. Interest and consumer 

excitement continue to flood in for products 

based on an initial investment decades ago 

– with little acceleration required outside of 

the occasional special release or promotional 

campaign. 

That said, achieving that ‘legendary’ status 

of these brands and products is appearing 

increasingly unattainable in a retail market 

driven by consumers with decreasing attention 

spans. 


MGDL is a leading Australian watch distributor proudly representing 

some of the most recognised brands in the fashion watch market 

including international brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Hugo Boss, 

Coach, Lacoste, MVMT, Olivia Burton and Calvin Klein. 

P: +61 3 9372 1122 | info@mgdl.com.au | mgdldistribution.com.au


HUBLOT 

USAIN BOLT 

It’s long been argued that the modern world is increasingly ‘fleeting’. 

The rapid evolution of trends, the lightning-fast ‘coming and going’ 

or what’s hot and what’s not, makes it difficult for watch brands to 

ascertain the ‘legacy’ status that the likes of Rolex and TAG Heuer 

have long enjoyed. 

“I'm not sure which influencers are being used to push these 

collaborations, as I generally avoid social media like that. What I 

can say is this sort of promotion is as fleeting as the fame of the 

respective influencers,” argues Shane Griffin of Worn and Wound. 

“Modern watches can't achieve the status of a Newman Daytona or 

a Steve McQueen Monaco. This is because the nature of ‘celebrity’ 

today is vastly different from the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s and 

because modern mechanical watches are purely luxury items now. 

“It's just not the same.” 

Griffin suggests that Newman and McQueen wore those specific 

products because they were practical while performing the types 

of stunts and scenes for which those actors are well-known. 

In other words, the types of watches available to Newman and 

McQueen for these scenes were limited at the time. Today, practical 

‘all-terrain’ watches are widely available and thus 

lack a unique appeal. 

“They needed the best tools available. If G-Shocks or Suuntos were 

around back then, I'd imagine they'd have worn them instead,” he jokes. 

“All of that is to say, no, I don't think the popularity of a watch is 

greatly impacted by influencers.” 

Making the right decision 

Ariel Adams of ABlogToWatch introduced an interesting alternative 

perspective to this discussion. He suggested that these marketing 

exercises keep watch brands grounded and connected with the market. 



LAB 

DIAMONDS 

BY DGA 


(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au jewellery and watch brands. (02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


WHEN A 

CLASSIC 

MEETS A 

CLASSIC 

AUDEMARS PIGUET 

LEBRON JAMES 

Well-established watch brands are notoriously resistant to change, 

and he argues that working on these types of projects helps these 

brands create products consumers desire. 

"Collaborations are popular because, when done well, they result in 

a watch at least one actual person wants,” he says. 

“When one person really wants it, usually others do as well. This is 

in contrast to watches designed by committee - that no single real 

person actually wants. Collaborations are really just what a watch 

design should be.” 

Neo 

For retailers considering a new watch brand for their store, evaluating 

an endorsement's ‘authenticity’ is complicated but crucial. 

As mentioned, customers are sensitive to celebrity endorsements 

and can view them as insincere or driven by financial gain rather 

than genuine enthusiasm for the product. This perception can erode 

the celebrity and brand's trust and credibility. 

" Well-established watch brands are 

notoriously resistant to change." 

Endorsements may also overshadow the quality and features of the 

product. Customers might focus more on the celebrity's image than 

the product's benefits, leading to scepticism about its value. 

Finally, retailers should be cautious of any brand that is endorsed 

by a 'controversial' public figure. If a trendsetter becomes engulfed 

by negative publicity, it can reflect poorly on the brands they’ve 

supported. 

For an example, look no further than the relationship between 

Kanye West and Adidas. 

The musician worked closely with the brand for nearly a decade; 

however, after several bitter public disagreements, the relationship 

turned sour. 

(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au


TAG HEUER 

CARA DELEVINGNE 

In a matter of weeks, West went from an ardent supporter of 

Adidas to a vocal opponent – and he had a global audience of 

millions hearing his every complaint. 

This can lead to a loss of trust and credibility among consumers 

who associate the brand with the celebrity. 

“It might sound trite, but for it to work properly, the influencer or 

celebrity needs to genuinely care about the product,” suggests Weiss. 

“For instance, Ryan Gosling has been an effective ambassador for 

TAG Heuer as he’s a genuine watch lover who’s angled to get TAG 

Heuers on screen with him in novel ways. 

“This includes him triple-flexing vintage TAG Heuers as Ken in Barbie.” 

Indeed, marketing projects between celebrities and watch 

brands begin with lofty ambitions. It’s a plan to capitalise on 

the expansive reach and cultural impact of these figures to 

elevate the desirability of a brand among consumers. 

The effectiveness of these projects remains up for debate. 

While some will happily argue that brand recognition increases 

following celebrity endorsement, others suggest that perceived 

insincerity and over-commercialisation have the opposite impact. 

Modern consumers say they value independent decision-making 

and personalisation; however, contradictions between stated 

beliefs and purchasing decisions are as common as the sun's 

rising and setting. 

The evolving landscape of influencer marketing in the watch industry 

requires a nuanced approach, and retailers must follow suit. 

Authenticity and brand alignment are crucial to gaining and 

maintaining consumer trust. 

The success of future collaborations rests on their ability to 

resonate with global audiences while navigating the complexity 

surrounding celebrity culture in the modern age. 



FAMOUS DIAMONDS FEATURE 

Stones that Rocked the World 

M 

any legendary diamonds have 

become lost to history, either by 

being re-cut or, in some cases, 

simply disappearing without a trace. 

Even though many of these famous diamonds 

no longer exist, sufficient detailed technical 

and scientific data was produced at the time 

to allow accurate assessments of each stone. 

These detailed records enable experts to 

conduct precise evaluations of each 

diamond, assessing unique characteristics, 

such as cut, colour, and clarity. 

This trove of data provides a window into 

the historical context and significance of 

these stones, offering insight into their 

origins, ownership, and cultural impact 

over centuries. 

These stories have continued to captivate 

the imagination of collectors and historians 

alike, creating an enduring legacy in 

the world of jewellery and beyond. 

Among those enamoured with these stones 

is Scott Sucher, who first became fascinated 

with diamonds at 14. 

Sucher, a retired US Air Force pilot, has 

continued his research on the world’s 

most iconic diamonds to the extent that 

he has created a collection of near-perfect 

replicas. He points out that his replicas 

are not mere representations or imitations! 

This distinction is crucial; while a representation 

is a ‘stand-in’ for its authentic counterpart, 

it is not necessarily accurate. 

A replica precisely recreates the size, shape, 

and colour of the original. 

This is something especially relevant to 

diamonds such as these because so few 

people are familiar with the originals. 

Koh-i-Noor & The Hope Diamond 

While the replicas have been recreated 

in cubic zirconia, the stone’s full beauty, 

magnificence, and uniqueness can still be 

appreciated as they are as close as possible 

to the original stone. 

For example, the most famous diamond 

in the collection, the Koh-i-Noor, has been 

replicated from a plaster model made 

in 1851 before the original stone was cut 

into its current form. 

And that’s where this story gets an 

important connection with Australia, 

beginning with a local jewellery retailer. 

The Koh-i-Noor is not only famous because 

of its size but also because of its history. 

Tens of thousands of people died fighting for 

the 189-carat diamond before it was eventually 

handed to the Queen of England in 1850. 

There, it was immediately cast in plaster twice, 

and just as well; the diamond was re-cut soon 

afterwards. 

In 2006, after lengthy negotiation, Sucher 

obtained permission from the Natural History 

Museum of London to have one of the two 

original 1850 plaster casts of the Koh-i-Noor 

shipped to Antwerp to be scanned to produce 

a perfect replica. 

The scanner, essentially a black-and-white 

camera with a parallel light source, captures 

hundreds of rotating images. These images 

are then used to construct a 3D .stl model, 

providing a comprehensive view of the object. 

More than 700 photographs were taken 

before the plaster model was shipped 

to Belgium to be X-rayed and laser-scanned 

so that replicas of both Koh-i-Noor’s original 

and modern forms could be produced. 

After the plaster mould was delicately 

scanned in Antwerp, the computer data 

had to be ‘converted’ to a usable format 

to re-create the stone. 

At this point, Melbourne jewellery retailer and 

diamond expert Garry Holloway then worked 

closely with Sucher using diamond-cutting 

software that could accurately position the 

facets on a 3D model of the Koh-i-Noor. 

This process alone took Holloway, a self-confessed 

‘diamond cut nut’, four months to complete to 

provide Sucher with the accurate data needed. 

Sucher then spent nearly 100 hours precisely 

cutting two replicas of the Koh-i-Noor: one is 

now on display at the Natural History Museum of 

London, and the other he kept for his collection. 


FEATURE | The World's Most Famous Diamonds 

CULLINAN I 

THE HOPE DIAMOND 

KOH-I-NOOR 

Colourless 530-carat diamond 

discovered in the Premier 

Mine, South Africa in 1905. 

A 45-carat fancy dark 

grey-blue diamond cut 

in the early 1800s. 

Colourless diamond cut from 

189 carats to 108. Discovered 

in India, as early as the 1300s. 

Because of this scientific and detailed work, 

the collection can be described as replicas 

rather than imitations. They mirror the original 

stone in every way possible. 

Sucher’s replica of The Hope Diamond is the 

result of research undertaken alongside the 

Discovery Channel, when it produced the 

documentary Unsolved History: The Hope 

Diamond, which aired in February 2005. 

To assist, the Smithsonian Institute granted 

direct access to the unset diamond so that 

more than 150 photographs could be taken 

and analysed to reproduce the stone. 

The documentary gave Sucher a chance 

to handle The Hope Diamond, as well 

as the 31-carat Blue Heart diamond and 

a 234-diamond necklace that Napoleon 

gave to his second wife, Marie-Louise. 

Dresden Green 

For those interested in diamonds with colour, 

the Dresden Green, of mysterious origin, 

is of particular note. 

It gained historical prominence when its 

remarkable emerald green colour captured the 

attention of King George I. 

Originally likely more than 100 carats in 

rough form, it is a unique diamond due to 

its rare green hue, which is caused by 

natural exposure to radioactive elements. 

Acquired in 1741 by Frederick Augustus II 

of Saxony, the diamond was set into the 

Decoration of the Golden Fleece and later 

reworked into various pieces of jewellery 

over the centuries. 

Safeguarded during the Seven Years War 

and World War II, it survived Allied bombings 

and a temporary relocation to Moscow before 

returning to Dresden in 1958. 

Named after Dresden, which has been 

prominently displayed at the Green Vault 

in the Albertinium Museum for much of 

the past two centuries, this rare diamond 

has also travelled to the Soviet Union 

post-World War II and briefly to the 

Smithsonian Institution in 2000. 

The Gemological Institute of America 

examined the Dresden Green in 1988. 

It confirmed it to be a high-quality Type IIa 

diamond with exceptional clarity and polish 

— a rarity for diamonds cut before 1741. 

Its historical significance have positioned the 

Dresden Green alongside the famous Hope 

Diamond, both notable for their size, 

intense colour, and cultural impact. 

TAVERNIER BLUE 

Blue diamond weighing 115 carats 

unearthed in India in 1610. 

Tiffany Yellow 

In the rough, the Tiffany Yellow was a 

canary-yellow octahedron weighing 

287.42 carats found at either the De Beers 

or Kimberly mines in South Africa in 1877. 

The origins of the diamond remain a mystery, 

though one account suggests it was discovered 

in the mines of the Compagnie Français de 

Diamant du Cap, known as the French Company. 

It was sent to Paris, where it underwent a year 

of study before being meticulously cut in 1878 

by George F. Kunz into a 128.54-carat 

cushion-cut brilliant stone. 

Acquired by Tiffany and Co. in 1879 for $18,000, 

the diamond initially received little fanfare 

until Chinese Viceroy Li Hung-Chang 

requested a viewing in New York in 1896. 

It has since been exhibited extensively, 

including at the Chicago Columbian Exposition 

(1893) and the World's Fair (1939) and was 

worn publicly at the Tiffany Ball in 1957. 

Offered for sale twice, the Tiffany Yellow 

caused controversy among company board 

members in 1951 and was later advertised 

for $5 million in 1972. 

Its unique cut, featuring 90 facets and 

a stepped crown, remains a subject of 

intrigue and debate among gemmologists. 

The diamond has never been formally 

examined by a gemmological organisation, 

leaving questions about its precise clarity 

and unique features unanswered. 

Black Orlov 

The myths surrounding many of these stones 

attracted great interest. According to legend, the 

67.50-carat, cushion-cut Black Orlov is said to 

have taken its name from a Russian Princess. 


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FEATURE | The World's Most Famous Diamonds 

TIFFANY YELLOW 

DRESDEN GREEN 

BLACK ORLOV 

A canary yellow diamond 

weighing 128 carats sourced 

from South Africa in 1878. 

A green diamond weighing 

40 carats, discovered in 

the early 1700s. 

Black diamond weighing 67 

carats discovered in India in 

the early 1800s. 

Unfortunately, this story appears to be fictional 

because of a lack of historical evidence of 

a Russian princess named Nadia Vyegin-Orlov, 

or the existence of notable black diamonds 

originating from India. 

Often described as a deep gunmetal hue rather 

than true black, the diamond has remained 

cloaked in mystery throughout its history. 

It’s been suggested that the Black Orlov 

was once known as the Eye of Brahma, a 

195-carat uncut stone set in a Hindu idol in 

Pondicherry, India, before being stolen. 

While the use of a black diamond in a Hindu 

idol has been questioned due to its association 

with bad luck, idols traditionally feature eyes 

symbolising the sun and moon, which lends 

some credence to the tale. 

What is known is that the Black Orlov came 

into the possession of Charles F. Winson, 

a dealer in New York City, who valued it at 

$150,000 in the early 1950s.He showcased 

it at the State Fair of Texas in 1964 before 

selling it for $300,000 in 1969. 

Subsequently, the diamond changed hands 

again in 1990 for $99,000 and was later 

auctioned by Christie's in October 2006, 

where it was incorporated into a diamond 

and platinum necklace and sold for $352,000. 

The Great Mogul 

According to French diamond merchant and 

explorer Jean Baptiste Tavernier, The Great Mogul 

was discovered around 1550 in the Gani mine 

(India) and weighed 780 carats in the rough. 

Tavernier, the first European to lay eyes on 

The Great Mogul and the imperial treasury, 

noted Emperor Aurangzeb's possession 

of the diamond during Louis XIV's era. 

Aurangzeb sent the stone to Venice for cutting 

by Hortensio Borgis, resulting in a final shape 

described by Tavernier as resembling 

"an egg cut in half." It boasts nearly 300 

facets and weighs approximately 280 carats. 

Historians speculate that this diamond later 

became the Orlov diamond, currently 

housed in the Russian Diamond Fund. 

The transformation from its original 780-carat 

rough form, marred by flaws, to its reduced size 

displeased the emperor. 

Refusing payment, Emperor Aurangzeb had the 

cutter severely punished, leading to his ruin. 

Tavernier's account in the mid-1600s stands as the 

primary historical record of this extraordinary gem. 

Although The Great Mogul diamond likely 

disappeared from history following the sack of 

Delhi in 1739, it continues to intrigue scholars. 

THE GREAT MOGUL 

The striking resemblance of the Orlov diamond, 

also featuring the 'egg cut in half' shape and 

weighing around 190 carats, suggests a connection 

between these two diamonds, reflecting a shared 

history and unique cut. 

Opportunity not to be missed 

Through exhaustive research of historical 

records and the participation of organisations 

such as the Smithsonian Institute, the Royal 

Ontario Museum, the Natural History Museum 

and Tower of London, and the Coster and 

Asscher diamond houses in Amsterdam, many 

of these stones have been retrieved from the 

dustbin of history and immortalised as highquality, 

historically accurate replicas. 

The small town of Tijeras, New Mexico – with 

a population of around 500 – is not where you 

would expect some of the world’s most important 

diamond research to have been completed. 

Sucher continues his work on a 15-acre property 

- complete with mountain lions, wild bears and 

coyotes - in partnership with many other experts 

and museums in the field. 

The 40-stone collection of the World Famous 

Diamonds is being brought to Australia by 

Expertise Events. It will feature in a specialpurpose 

display at the upcoming International 

Jewellery Fair in Sydney on 17–19 August. 

At the show, Sucher will also speak about the 

World Famous Diamonds and other related 

gemstone topics. 

SCAN TO READ MORE 

ABOUT EACH OF THE 

FAMOUS DIAMONDS 

THAT WILL BE ON DISPLAY 


DGA are proud to partner with some 

of the world’s top diamond jewellery 

manufacturers to bring you high quality 

finished diamond jewellery 

at exceptional price points. 


(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au jewellery and watch brands. (02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au 


We Are Here For You

FEATURE 

History of Diamond Cutting 

Skills, practices, and traditions can be pushed aside and even forgotten as 

technology changes every aspect of our daily lives. SCOTT SUCHER says to 

spare a thought for the first diamond cutters who created an entire industry. 

Diamonds have been known to 

man for at least 3000 years 

and possibly longer. 

For hundreds of years, the stone’s hardness and 

rarity made it challenging to use in anything other 

than its natural form, as pulled from river gravels. 

It wasn’t until the 1200s that diamonds began 

to be cut using diamond dust, oil, and a steel 

plate. Stones could then have a more finished 

appearance; however, they still lacked the 

brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation 

we know today. 

Over the following 700 years, technology, 

optics, and trade-affected diamond cutting 

became more complex. 

In the early 1900s, Marcel Tolkowsky quantified 

how diamonds should be cut mathematically 

and the proper proportions that would 

feature a stone’s maximum brilliance. 

It is now commonplace for diamonds to be cut 

using the latest computer-controlled, 

fully automated machinery. 

They can be graded using equipment that 

evaluates the perfection of the cut, from 

‘Hearts and Arrows’ to the latest laser 

scanners that show angles and index settings. 

Today, even the grading criteria have been 

developed to unheard of levels even 

a few years ago. 

Modern cut diamonds are evaluated using 

these new technologies to benefit the 

modern consumer. 

With that said, what can we make of a chance 

encounter with a historic point-cut diamond 

or any of the other cuts leading up to the 

round brilliant? 

Would you be the type to evaluate an ‘old cut’ 

diamond against modern criteria, dismissing 

it as a poorly cut stone and only worthy 

of re-cutting? 

Alternatively, would you be able to appreciate 

the efforts of an artisan and his assistants, 

toiling for years over a small rotating wheel 

in a dimly lit workshop, attempting to create 

an object of beauty out of an extraordinary 

piece of river gravel? 

Only by understanding the evolution of the 

different diamond cuts and the challenges 

and difficulties others had in creating these 

old stones can their true beauty and worth 

be realised. 

The journey begins 

The first industrial use of diamonds was 

recorded by the discovery of a sapphire bead 

accurately dating back to 1000 B.C. 

This would have been created using a diamond 

drill, where two small diamonds were attached 

to a wooden rod, probably using pitch or resin, 

then rotated using a string bow and pressed 

against the bead blank. 

Diamonds were first mentioned in historical 

texts as early as around 400 B.C.; however, 

some scholars think it was much earlier. 

Regardless of written texts, the earliest 

piece of diamond jewellery that still exists 

is a small octahedral crystal set in a 

first-century Roman ring. 

The first historical diamond deposits were located 

in India. Stones larger than 10 carats or a perfect 

crystal of any size were considered the property 

of the local Maharajah. 

It was rare for any diamond to make it into the 

local market, and even if they did, they were 

probably smuggled and too small for 

the Maharajah to be concerned with. 

It is recorded that when caught, violators 

were put to death by being tied to a stake 

and attacked by large half-starved dogs. 

Diamonds were known to the Romans; 

however, as gemstones, they were so rare 

that they couldn’t develop much of a 

following throughout most of Europe. 

There wasn’t a sufficient enough supply to 

make them that well-known or treasured. 

Not only were diamonds scarce, they were 

also so hard that they couldn’t easily be 

shaped. This gave them a mythical 

property of being indestructible. 

Imagine a person from that era observing 

a small octahedral crystal, flawlessly shaped 

and naturally polished, radiantly beautiful 

as it catches the light in a mesmerising 

manner, aware that its form cannot be altered. 

No wonder they were held in such high esteem! 

First Cuts: Crucial Discovery 

Early European writings alluding to diamonds 

were inventories created in the early 1200s. 

They described diamonds as found in their 

natural shape and placed in a setting; the art 

and science of diamond cutting had yet to be 

developed. 

Unlike other gemstones, it was too hard to 

fashion, as nothing could be used to grind, 

shape, and polish it. 

Somewhere between 1280 and 1310, inventories 

showed diamonds that were ‘made’ or altered 

from their original crystal form instead of 

‘unmade’ stones in their natural state. 

This indicates that someone finally discovered 

that the only way to grind a diamond was with 

another diamond. 


Romancing the Stone Cutters | FEATURE 

TIMELINE OF CUTTING 

The History 

of Stonecutting 

3000 B.C. 

India 

The first historical 

diamond deposits 

were located in India. 

200 B.C. 

Rome 

Earliest piece of 

diamond jewellery is 

an octahedral crystal 

set in a first-century 

Roman ring. 

1200 A.D. 

Northern 

Europe 

Early European 

writings alluding 

to diamonds were 

inventories created 

in the early 1200s. 

1275 A.D. 

Point Cut 

Use of natural crystal 

faces - changing 

angles slightly - 

polishing the surface. 

1350 A.D. 

Table Cut 

Creation of table 

and introduction of 

culet facet. 

1375 A.D. 

Single Cut 

Additional facets to 

add brilliance. 

These early stones were primarily fashioned from 

crystal octahedrons, resulting in the pointcut. 

These ‘made’ stones mimicked the octahedral shape, 

taking advantage of the decreasing softness as the 

grinding angle deviated away from the 

hardest surfaces (the crystal faces). 

These planes lie at an angle of 54.74° from 

the base of the pyramid in an octahedron and the 

early point cuts had angles ranging from 45°–60°. 

Changing the octahedral angles slightly 

required the least time and effort, so this 

was the first identified cut for jewellery. 

New Cuts: Expanding Practices 

The table cut first appeared around the 

mid-1300s. It was a point cut; however, 

one of the pyramid points was ground away. 

This also increased the light entering the stone, 

so table cut diamonds were more brilliant 

than point cut stones. 

However, both the table and point cuts had 

pavilions far too deep to take advantage 

of the optical properties of a diamond. 

Even with a pseudo-table facet, table cut 

stones still appeared quite dark. 

There are also table cuts in which a part of 

the point is ground opposite the table facet, 

resulting in a small culet facet. 

This may have originally occurred if a damaged 

octahedron was purchased, and the point 

had to be ground to remove the flaw. 

There are two schools of thought concerning 

the purpose of the culet facet. 

The first is that it forms a dark spot in the centre 

of the stone, giving the eye something on which 

to focus so that the surrounding brilliance can 

be better admired. 

The second purpose is to act as a mirror, 

capturing some of the stray light rays that 

would typically escape, and reflecting them 

to the eye for increased brilliance. 

One thing to remember is that no mechanised 

equipment was used to grind down diamonds 

at that time. 

Some writings mention cutters rubbing rough 

on a hard piece of wood with a diamond as 

the abrasive. 

Later writings describe a rotating metal wheel 

powered by a foot treadle. 

Either way, using these tools, it is easy to imagine 

the amount of labour and time required to place 

a small culet facet, let alone a large table facet, 

on an octahedron. 

Consider, then, a gemstone cutter holding 

the rough by hand over a wheel powered by 

a treadle, with an assistant dribbling oil on it 

to make the grit adhere to the wheel and 

another assistant applying the diamond dust. 

To get the grit for grinding, one would have 

to find a non-gemstone-quality diamond, 

grind it to dust, and then sift and sort it. 

It was only then that it could be applied to the wheel. 

Scott Sucher created the World Famous Diamond replica collection. 

It’s no wonder that only royalty possessed 

diamonds, as the hidden costs of production 

were far out of reach of any commoner. 

Around the 1300s, once diamond cutting was 

discovered, diamonds began to travel overland to 

Europe along northern trade routes or by ship across 

the Indian Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. 

Venice and Lisbon became diamond trading 

centres in the 1300s. These two locations parsed 

out diamonds to the rest of Europe, with one of the 

earliest cutting centres starting in Antwerp. 

A guild of diamond cutters was also formed 

in Nürnberg, Germany, in 1375. 

As an aside, it is estimated that more than 

$USD16 billion in diamonds are traded 

through Antwerp today. 

The single cut was developed in the late 1300s, 

which added more facets along the sides to improve 

light return; however, stones were still dark due 

to the high pavilion angles. 

From the cuts so far, it is apparent that artisans 

were beginning to discover that diamonds had optical 

properties that could be harnessed to turn a piece 

of river gravel into a prized treasure. 

It must be remembered that in the 1300s, the science 

of optics had yet to be invented and wouldn’t be 

discovered for another 400 years. 

There was no scientific understanding of the 

properties of light yet; however, by advancing 

cuts through trial and error, it is apparent that 

artisans were aware of brilliance and scintillation. 

The cutter’s interest in bringing out the 

maximum beauty of a piece of rough could 

have significantly impacted the understanding 

of the concept of light and how to use it. 

Striking Symmetry: Pendeloque and Rose Cuts 

The development of the pendeloque cut 

emerged in the early 1400s. 

This was a rather flat, pear-shaped cut used for 

unusually shaped, thin rough. 

It was not brilliant due to its flatness; however, 

the concept of symmetry became increasingly 

important, as was the technology to create it. 


FEATURE | Romancing the Stone Cutters 

The rose cut was developed in the latter part 

of the 1400s and certainly no later than the 

early 1500s. It has primarily triangular-shaped 

facets. If the back side of the stone was flat, 

it was considered a single cut rose. 

If the top and bottom were both cut and facetted, 

then it was a double cut rose. Stretching out a 

double cut rose resulted in a briolette. 

Diamonds became increasingly popular 

in Europe when the Portuguese conquered 

the Indian port of Goa in 1510 and 

established a trading centre. 

More formal commercial traffic was implemented, 

and diamonds became increasingly available to 

European cutters, confirmed by historical 

paintings of this period. 

Whereas paintings of royals from the 1400s 

showed at most two or three diamonds, paintings 

of the 1500s show royal clothing bedecked with 

diamonds on the bodice, sleeves, and lapels. 

Rising Complexity: Light on the horizon 

As can be seen, cuts became more complex 

as the nature of light and optical properties 

were explored. 

The Mazarin and Peruzzi cuts – more styles 

than specific cuts - were developed by the early 

1600s, with 17 and 33 crown facets, respectively. 

This additional complexity increased brilliance 

and scintillation. The process of bruting had 

yet to be developed, so stones were still 

primarily square or octagonal outlines, 

sometimes with rounded corners. 

The old mine cut was developed in the early 

1700s and is considered the first of the brilliant 

cuts. It is characterised by a high crown, 

a large table, and a large culet facet. 

In the 1800s, the bruting machine was developed, 

and circular diamonds could now be created. 

The old European cut, characterised by a tall 

crown, a small table, and a tall pavilion, was 

developed. This was the beginning of the true 

brilliant cut, which possessed 58 facets 

and was circular. However, due to the steep 

crown and pavilion angles, brilliance, dispersion, 

and scintillation still suffered. 

The invention of the light bulb in 1879 radically 

changed how diamonds appeared. Before this, 

diamonds were owned by the wealthy and worn in 

posh surroundings, typically lit by candlelight. 

Hundreds of candles could illuminate a single room 

with softly flickering flames with a spectrum very 

heavy in the reds. Candlelight was replaced by a 

light bulb – a single point of steady light with an 

entirely different spectrum. 

This changed everything! Diamonds now appeared 

far duller. The light bulb, therefore, changed the 

way diamonds would be cut. 

Around 1860, jeweller Henry Dutton Morse opened 

the first American diamond-cutting factory in 

Boston. He challenged tradition and went against 

the dogma of conserving diamond weight at all 

costs, focusing instead on brilliance. 

His angles and proportions went on to be used by 

Tiffany & Co., among other high-end jewellers. 

Diamond cutting was now beginning to be a more 

scientific process to maximise brilliance. 

Modern World: A Legend Emerges 

In the 1900s, Marcel Tolkowsky, a legend of the art 

of modern diamond cutting, conducted an in-depth 

study of optics and its relationship to diamonds. 

His work was published in 1919: Diamond Design, 

A Study of the Reflection and Refraction of Light 

in a Diamond. 

It has been considered by some to be the definitive 

work on the art and science of diamond cutting. 

It spelled out the scientific logic for the brilliant 

cut as we know it today. However, it was different 

from the American cut by only a fraction of a degree 

in pavilion and crown angles. In fact, a GemRay 

analysis shows that the American cut returns about 

3 per cent more brilliance than the brilliant cut. 

Although Tolkowskyis credited with developing 

the brilliant cut, Morse actually beat him to it 

by several decades. This oversight is due to a lack 

of communication between European and US 

cutters and the industry's belief that Europeans, 

who developed diamond cutting in the first place, 

had more knowledge and, therefore, 

more expertise in the art. 

The 1900s ended with the process of mining, 

grading, evaluating, and cutting diamonds, 

all of which became mechanised and 

computer-controlled. 

Today, there is little reason for a human to 

actually touch a diamond. As a result, 

the romance of a diamond cutter struggling 

to make an existence by spending years 

cutting a single stone is disappearing. 

The Old World was forced to yield to the 

Computer Age. A diamond may be forever; 

however, romancing the stone is now gone. 

Scott Sucher is a world-renowned gemstone 

cutter. He developed a keen interest in 

diamonds and the misinformation and historical 

inaccuracies surrounding many famous 

diamonds. He created a collection of the World’s 

Most Famous Diamonds, perfectly replicates of 

around 40 iconic stones. 

1475 A.D. 

Symmetry 

Introduced 

The concept of 

symmetry became 

increasingly 

important. 

1550 A.D. 

Rose Cut 

Additional 

facets added to 

accommodate flat, 

irregular rough. 

1650 A.D. 

Mazarin Style 

Additional facets to 

increase brillance. 

1675 A.D. 

Peruzzi Style 

Modified Mazarin. 

1725 A.D. 

Old Mine Cut 

Tall crown, small table, 

and large culet. 

1850 A.D. 

Old European 

Cut 

Bruting, small table, 

very tall crown, and 

deep stone. 

1900 A.D. 

Brilliant 

In-depth 

understanding of 

optics and angular 

relationships. 


ANNIVERSARY REFLECTION 

Experiment & Evolve 

Staying ahead of the curve is difficult in a conservative industry based on tradition. 

Reflecting on four decades of innovation and endurance with Thomas Sabo. 

C 

elebrating anniversaries and 

acknowledging significant 

milestones in any industry is 

essential, especially one steeped in tradition. 

It’s an opportunity to reflect on the road travelled, 

whether defined by success or adversity and plan 

for the future. 

This year marks an important milestone for 

jewellery brand Thomas Sabo. It’s been 40 

years since the company’s humble beginnings 

in Bavaria, Germany, in 1984. 

At the time, founder Thomas Sabo was a young 

entrepreneur with ambitious plans for the silver 

jewellery market. Starting with his own designs, 

the jewellery was manufactured in Asia and sold 

to select retailers at trade shows. 

His sterling silver jewellery was a steady success, 

gathering a following among retailers with each 

passing show. 

Sabo wasn’t satisfied, however, because he felt a 

crucial concept was missing - it wasn’t branded. 

A typical jewellery store window would feature 

watches — which have long benefited from 

branding associations — and unbranded gold, 

diamond, and colour gemstone jewellery. 

Branding was thought impractical because of 

the intricate and often small nature of jewellery. 

Conversely, the watch features the brand name 

or logo on the face. 

It was an understandable stance for jewellery 

designers; however, it left too many advantages 

on the table. 

Strong branding helps consumers easily recognise 

products and fosters trust and familiarity. 

Consumers are more likely to purchase jewellery 

from a brand they are confident in. 

Effective branding encourages repeat business and 

customer loyalty. It distinguishes an individual brand 

from competitors and highlights unique values and 

characteristics. 

Gamble & Glory 

While Thomas Sabo was launched as a brand in the 

late 1980s, it wasn’t until designer Susanne Kölbli 

joined the company as creative director in the early 

1990s that a critical partnership would be formed. 

In 1998, the company made another significant 

step forward – opening its first brand-only store in 

Frankfurt. Stores in Europe, Asia, and the US would 

soon follow. 

Nearly a decade later, the brand began exploring the 

opportunity to expand into Australia. A distribution 

partnership was secured with Duraflex Group 

Australia, and Thomas Sabo was launched at the 

International Jewellery Fair in 2006. 

It was a significant gamble for Duraflex. While the 

branded jewellery phenomenon was beginning 

courtesy of Pandora, a clear distinction between 

fine and fashion jewellery was ever-present in the 

minds of retailers. 

Jewellers were wary of silver and viewed it as 

‘merely’ fashion jewellery and trade for the brand 

was slow in Australia for the first two years. 

It’s not uncommon for brands and distributors to 

e ‘spooked’ by a lack of initial support in a market 

such as Australia; however, Thomas Sabo and 

Duraflex were resilient. 

Popularity spiked in 2007 when the Charm Club 

Collection was launched. It had evolved into a 

perfect recipe for appeal for consumers and 

retailers — personalised and collectible jewellery 

with an established international presence that 

didn’t break the bank. 

This move would result in the product being held 

by more than 300 stockists across Australia and 

New Zealand within seven years. 

This expansion would prove crucial for 

Duraflex, evolving the company into a multibranded 

distributor for branded jewellery 

as an emerging category. 

Reflecting on the evolution of this relationship over 

the past two decades, Edwards says that consistent 

willingness to innovate and adapt has been critical 

to the brand’s success. 

“We are extremely proud of our very strong 

partnership with the brand Thomas Sabo and 

specifically our direct personal connection with 

the owner, Mr Sabo,” he tells Jeweller. 

“It has evolved by continuing to strengthen and 

build on our very strong foundation and constant 

connection with the head office team in Germany. 


There are more than 60 pieces, including newly 

designed crosses and silver chains, chokers, 

earrings, bracelets, and rings with tarnished 

silver and elaborate facet-cut gemstones. 

Sabo says every piece of jewellery from the 

collection is designed to tell a personal story and 

create an emotional connection with consumers. 

“It reflects true connection and embodies the 

DNA of our 

Rebel At Heart line,” he explains. 

“Designs such as crosses, dragons, snakes, 

hearts and floral design codes are faithful 

companions in the history of our brand.” 

With persistent concerns about cost-of-living 

pressures, inflation, and reduced discretionary 

spending causing headaches for Australian 

retailers, expanding the market presence of a 

jewellery brand in 2024 is daunting. 

That said, Edwards says Thomas Sabo has shown 

no signs of slowing down and remains committed 

to the benefits of design experimentation's trialand-error 

nature. 

“It is a true partnership in every sense of the 

word and will continue to be so for many more 

years to come.” 

Experiment & Evolve 

The success of the Charm Club Collection was 

undoubtedly a turning point, vindicating the longheld 

belief that branded jewellery was a successful 

proposition. 

With that said, Thomas Sabo did not rest on its 

laurels. The brand expanded into its first line of 

watches in 2009, featuring distinctive designs 

such as skulls and snakes. 

In 2014, the first line of fine jewellery was launched 

and has continued to experiment in the years since. 

THOMAS SABO x HARIBO was recently launched 

– a new jewellery collection showcasing the iconic 

‘Goldbears’ fruit gummies in colourful designs. 

It’s a collaboration between two well-known 

German companies, with HARIBO beginning in 

1920. Crafted from lightly frosted crystal glass 

that mimics the characteristics of confectionery, 

these creations are available in red, yellow, 

green, orange, white, and blue. 

This willingness to adapt to changing market trends 

has led to an evolving target audience for the brand. 

“The consumer demographic for Thomas Sabo 

has indeed significantly expanded over the years,” 

Edwards explains. 

“While now a very broad audience, the brand 

continues gathering younger customers while 

retaining the original core customer. The key to 

the success of this strategy is product design, 

development and collaboration. 

“The iconic and historic designs are reinterpreted 

seasonally but still remain true to the brand DNA.” 

The Rebellious Glam Collection was recently unveiled 

to mark the brand's 40th anniversary. Select design 

codes represent significant milestones. 

"Strong branding helps consumers 

easily recognise products and fosters 

trust and familiarity. Consumers are 

more likely to purchase jewellery 

from a brand they are confident in." 

“Consumer purchasing trends are constantly 

evolving, now more than ever, and the brand is well 

aware it needs to evolve with them,” he explains. 

“As is the case for many brands, growth strategy is 

a challenge partly because of the current economic 

conditions. This highlights the need to modify and 

diversify our distribution continually.” 

Past & Present 

The meteoric rise of branded jewellery as a new 

category led to the launch of many other brands; 

however, most failed for various reasons and/or 

have left Australia. 

The international brands that have remained in 

windows, shelves, and display cases – such as 

Thomas Sabo - have proven that they are in it 

for the long run. 

“Since Thomas Sabo first launched into the 

Australian market, we have seen many other 

jewellery brands come and go,” Edwards recalls. 

“We have navigated the highs and lows in the 

category over many years; the key to navigating 

this is to provide stability with constant evolution 

and being nimble while adaptive to change.” 

It’s no secret that since the COVID-19 pandemic, 

the broader retail industry is facing challenges. 

As documented in Jeweller’s 2024 State of the 

Industry Report, Australia's number of jewellery 

stores fell from 4,225 in 2010 to 3,500 by 

December 2023. 

Despite the decline in overall stores, 33 per cent 

of independent jewellery retailers report that their 

business is more profitable today than before the 

pandemic, painting an optimistic outlook for those 

who remain. 

Despite this decline in total stores, Edwards 

says the brand remains secure because of its 

established relationship with Australian consumers. 

“With the brand's life cycle, our distribution 

has reduced and been refined, and our current 

position in the market is very stable,” he says. 

“We have strong relationships with our valued 

retail partners, and while there simply are not as 

many jewellery and watch stores open today as 

there once were, we continue to have strong 

representation across all states and territories.” 

Indeed, Thomas Sabo's success over the past four 

decades has been due to seemingly opposing factors. 

The company has demonstrated a willingness to 

adapt to rapidly changing consumer trends. 

In a competitive landscape, brands must innovate 

to differentiate. Flexibility allows brands to 

respond effectively to changes in the market. 

At the same time, strong brands constantly evolve and 

benefit from long-term relationships with consumers 

as a matter of heritage. Personalised and collectible 

branded jewellery fosters loyalty among consumers. 

It’s a recipe for success that Thomas Sabo has 

carefully crafted over the past four decades. 


BUYING GUIDE 

Show & Tell 

Looking for something new and exciting to stock in your jewellery store? You've 

come to the right place. Jeweller presents a Buying Guide packed with the latest 

products ahead of the annual International Jewellery Fair in Sydney.

SHOW & TELL | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2024 

STAND 

F13 

Adidas Originals 

DESIGNA ACCESSORIES 

designaaccessories.com.au 

Adidas Originals is a lifestyle and 

fashion label with an athletic 

edge. Drawing on Adidas’ rich 

sporting history, Adidas Originals 

reinterprets the brand’s timeless 

designs with modern flair and street 

culture style to inspire all in their 

everyday lives. 

STAND 

G09 

Autore Pearls 

autorepearls.com.au 

Autore Pearls is a dynamic, advanced, and 

vertically integrated pearling group. The 

company's pearls are sourced directly from 

their South Sea pearl farms, owning and 

operating 10 sites. 

STAND 

A05 & A07 

Ania Haie 

DURAFLEX GROUP AUSTRALIA 

dgau.com.au 

With a passion for quality jewellery beset 

with style and a clear understanding that 

fashion-focused women don't want to 

compromise on quality, Ania Hae was born - 

jewellery that focuses on stacking and layering 

to embrace individuality. 

STAND 

F13 

August Berg 



STAND 

A05 & A07 

Baume & Mercier 


dgau.com.au 

August Berg is based on the 

inspiring thought of reframing 

the watch from a passive 

counter of time lost, to actively 

inspiring you to spend time on 

the things that baring purpose, 

meaning and joy to your life. 

With a rich legacy spanning 

almost two centuries, Baume 

& Mercier pride themselves on 

their precise watchmaking that 

produces pieces of the highest 

quality. The Riviera collection - 

first released in 1973 and recently 

reinterpreted - expresses the 

brand’s design expertise and its 

exquisite use of materials. 


E13 

STAND 

IJF 

3 

1/2 PAGE HORIZONTAL 

ADVERTISEMENT 

PEARL & OPAL JEWELLERY STYLED BY NATURE 

wholesale.ikecho.com.au | 02 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au


STAND 

C40 

Bespoke Jewels 

bespokejewels.com.au 

STAND 

E13 

Bracelets 

IKECHO AUSTRALIA 

ikecho.com.au 

Family-owned Bespoke Jewels 

takes pride in manufacturing 

one-of-a-kind timeless jewellery. 

Bespoke Jewels carry an exclusive 

ready-to-ship fine jewellery 

collection, featuring 18-carat 

and 14-carat gold with natural 

diamonds, gemstones, and labcreated 

diamonds. Each jewellery 

item comes with IGI certification. 

Enrich your style with Ikecho's exquisite bracelet 

collection. Discover these stunning bracelets for 

every occasion, adding a touch of elegance to 

your look with these beautiful designs. 

STAND 

E45 

Blumoon Diamond 

blumoon.com.au 

Blumoon Diamond is an Australianowned 

diamond wholesaler company 

providing a range of polished 

diamonds of all shapes and sizes. 

The company takes pride in its ability 

to source the best diamond for each 

customer's requirement. 

STAND 

A05 & A07 

STAND 

F18 

Blush Pink Diamonds 

SAMS GROUP AUSTRALIA 

pinkkimberley.com.au 

Bronzallure 


dgau.com.au 

Designs blend knowledge and skills with a clear 

concept and authentic Italian jewellery making. 

Meticulous attention to detail and a shade that is easy 

to wear, match, and combine: Bronzallure’s concept is 

100 per cent designed and made in Italy. 

The Blush Pink Diamond collection 

from Pink Kimberley boasts a 

beautiful array of wearable, stylish 

and unique designs. The range was 

created based on the principle that 

jewellery with natural pink Argyle 

diamonds should be affordable to 

women from all walks of life. 



STAND 

F10 

Bubbles Ring 

NINA'S JEWELLERY 

ninasjewellery.com.au 

Over the past twenty years, the 

Bubbles Ring has been made in 

countless variations, including 

Argyle pink, champagne, and 

yellow fancy-colour diamonds. 

The most recent rainbow 

version is already turning 

heads and was snapped up by a 

customer within days. 

STAND 

A25 

Burgundy Diamonds 

burgundydiamonds.com 

Burgundy Diamond Mines is a global 

company focused on the mining, production, 

cutting, polishing, grading and sales of 

diamonds. Burgundy operates its own 

diamond cutting, polishing, grading and sales 

facility in Perth, where sales of polished 

diamonds to jewellers and manufacturers 

around the world are completed. 

STAND 

C09 

Australia’s Longest 

Operating Watch Brand 

ClassiqueWatches.com 

Centrestone 

Jewellery Insurance 

centrestone.com.au 

Centrestone Jewellery 

Insurance is Australia's 

premier Jewellery Insurance 

specialist. More than 1,000 

jewellers throughout the 

country now work with 

Centrestone Jewellery 

Insurance for their customers. 

Become a stockist today 02 9290 2199


(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au jewellery and watch brands. (02) 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


STAND 

D17 

Chemgold 

chemgold.com 

For more than 35 years, Chemgold 

has been supplying jewellery 

retailers and manufacturers across 

Australia and New Zealand. The 

range of products and services 

includes casting, refining, 

fabricated alloys, findings, bullion, 

mounts, laser engraving, and a 

comprehensive catalogue of more 

than 10,000 designs. 

STAND 

E01 

Classics 

BECKS GROUP AUSTRALIA 

becksgroup.au 

BECKS provides the Australian 

jewellery industry with the world's 

finest precious metals and jewellery 

products, all proudly crafted in the 

South Australian studio. For both 

customers and clients, the company 

stands by three powerful words. 

Long live love. 

STAND 

A29 

Christian Marolho 

christianmarolho.com 

Established in 2021, Christian 

Marolho offers fine jewellery 

designed with a blend of nostalgia 

and sophistication. These distinctive 

collections feature unique designs 

that artfully combine materials to 

deliver outstanding pieces. 

STAND 

F18 

Classique 


classiquewatches.com 

Classique Watches is 

Australia’s longestoperating 

watch company, 

founded in 1967. Classique 

boasts an extensive array 

of designs ranging from 

bracelets and leather 

wristwatches to unique and 

classic pocket watches. 

STAND 

B39 

STAND 

A24 

Classic Grown 

Diamonds 

classicgrowndiamonds.com 

Classic Grown Diamonds 

is one of the largest 

manufacturers of lab-created 

diamonds and high-quality 

finished jewellery. It offers 

more than 20,000 GIA and IGI 

certified diamonds between 

0.3 carats and 15 carats. 

Clear Neutral 

clearneutral.org 

Clear Neutral is a highly sought-after 

carbon-neutral certification service for 

lab-created diamonds. It allow you to 

source diamonds from any supplier you 

like, and certify them when the sale is 

made while supporting environmental 

and social projects plus giving your 

customers what they want. 


Perfect picks 

for your customers 

this Christmas! 

Visit our website for the full range 

of trade show and Christmas specials. 

Create your account and place your order now! 

Come and say hi to us at the Sydney trade show! 

IJF Stand: F10 

wholesale@ninas.co 

ninasjewellerywholesale.com.au 


Available now. 

Trade-show prices 

(Limited time only!) 

Bunchberry 

White diamond necklace in 9k yellow 

gold (270349) 

$909 $727 

Flight necklace 

White diamond necklace in 

9k white gold (280521) 

$950 $760 

Xanthi 

Orange diamond necklace in 9k yellow 

gold (270348) 

$1150 $920 

Most 

loved 

Flight earrings 

White diamond earrings 

in 9k white gold (310480) 

$869 $695 

Flight ring 

Flight white diamond ring 


$849 $679 

Flight bracelet 

White diamond bracelet 

in sterling silver (1800147) 

$255 $204 

Bengal 

Champagne diamond ring 

in 9k yellow gold (260730) 

$519 $415 

Bengal 

White diamond ring 


$5399 $431 

Bengal 

Orange diamond ring 

in 9k rose gold (260731) 

$589 $471 

ninasjewellerywholesale.com.au 


#ONEFORMEONEFORYOU 

p +61 (0)8 8221 5580 

sales@timesupply.com.au | timesupply.com.au 

exclusive distributor AU & NZ 

IJF STAND 

D01


STAND 

D35 

Cultured Jewellery Designs 

culturedjewellerydesigns.com 

Cultured Jewellery Designs is led by Lisa Berghofer with more 

than two decades of experience in the industry. Offers include 

a necklace and bracelet matching set with silver rose goldplated 

magnetic clasp and pink freshwater pearl. Earrings with 

nine-carat yellow gold, with a faceted Carnelian drop design. 

STAND 

D01 

Coeur de Lion 

TIME SUPPLY 

timesupply.com.au 

In the modern world, where there are so many 

must-haves, it is reassuring to know that some 

things are above these ever-changing trends. 

Handmade jewellery from Coeur de Lion is 

timeless. These creations marry clear, minimalist 

designs with unusual colour combinations, 

making them both elegant and unconventional. 

STAND 

A05 & A07 

Daniel Wellington 


dgau.com.au 

Daniel Wellington watches are 

defined by their clean, minimalistic 

designs, with a timeless versatility 

that makes them the perfect 

watches for any occasion. 

STAND 

F11 

Couture Kingdom 

couturekingdom.com 

Couture Kingdom brings licensed 

collections of vibrant and unique 

pop-culture jewellery in collaboration 

with some of the world’s most 

recognised and iconic brands. 

The company offers jewellery and 

accessories inspired by classic 

Disney animation and films, 

including Marvel and Star Wars. 

STAND 

A12 

Desert Rose 

ELLENDALE DIAMONDS 

ellendalediamonds.com.au 

As a reputable Australian family business with a 

rich history and 57 years of continuous growth and 

expertise, Ellendale Diamonds is a wholesaler of 

fancy colour diamonds and a jewellery manufacturer. 

Desert Rose rings reflect an endless circle with 

no beginning and no end, with an open centre to 

represent the life a couple has ahead of them. 



STAND 

A05 & A07 

Diamonds By DGA 


dgau.com.au 

Featuring a beautiful selection of 

jewellery finished to the highest 

quality, the Diamonds by DGA range 

features nine-carat and 18-carat 

gold diamond earrings, bracelets, 

rings, and pendants. These natural 

diamonds are high-quality 

in both colour and clarity. 

STAND 

A05 & A07 

Edox 


dgau.com.au 

t 

For more than 140 years, Edox 

watches have combined ultimate 

precision with ingenious solutions 

– even for the most demanding 

activities: be it above or below the 

water surface, in the eternal ice or 

even on glowing desert sand.

SEE US AT THE 

SYDNEY IJF 

STAND E12 

GET READY! 

OUR EXCITING 

NEW WEBSITE 

IS LAUNCHING 

SOON! 

Phone: +613 9338 0091 Email: sales@worthdouglas.com.au worthdouglas.com


STAND 

E01 

Eternities 


becksgroup.au 

BECKS remains committed to 

creating world-class wedding 

rings and jewellery products 

using only the finest precious 

metals, diamonds, and 

manufacturing techniques. 

STAND 

F13 

Furla 



Furla provides quality timepieces 

with strong detailing, which play 

upon mixtures of materials and 

finishes and reflect the signature 

elements of Furla design. 

STAND 

B10 

Gents 

PATERSON FINE JEWELLERY 

pfj.com.au 

STAND 

D25 

Eugene's Jewellery 

eugenesjewellery.com.au 

Established in 1935, Paterson Fine 

Jewellery stands as one of Australia 

and New Zealand's oldest and most 

esteemed jewellery wholesalers. As 

both supplier and manufacturer, the 

company offers a diverse selection of 

premium jewellery at competitive prices, 

complemented by efficient service. 

Eugene’s Jewellery is a Melbourne based family 

business that’s been operating since 1995. Gold 

bracelets, chains, bangles and earrings in 9-carat, 

10-carat and 18-carat yellow, rose, and white gold are 

available, as well as a range of bolt rings and padlocks 

in gold and sterling silver. 

STAND 

B10 

Firegem 

PATERSON FINE JEWELLERY 

pfj.com.au 

Firegem opal jewellery offer organic, unconventional 

shapes and striking colours, presenting individuals with an 

incredible opportunity to express their eclectic, bold and 

creative sense of style. 

STAND 

D10 

Georgini 

WEST END COLLECTION 

westendcollection.com.au 

Transforming traditional fine 

jewellery design with a contemporary 

flair, Georgini produces affordable 

luxury pieces that empower 

customers to exude elegance during 

their special moments. 





STAND 

B13 

Gerrim International 

gerrim.com 

Gerrim International is an 

Australian manufacturer 

specialising in creating jewellery 

that combines timeless elegance 

with contemporary design. The 

range of includes rings, necklaces, 

bracelets, earrings, and pearls. 

STAND 

F13 

Guess 



GUESS offers a wide range of styles 

and colours for both men and 

women. Pieces for women feature 

styles ranging from trendy-casual 

to sophisticated-chic. The collection 

for men encompasses the best of 

masculine design, materials, and 

technology.

launching at the 

International Jewellery Fair 

17-19 August • Stand A29 

nostalgic & 

sophisticated 

collections for 

a modern style 

christianmarolho.com 

christian@christianmarolho.com 

+61 482 725 014

SHOW & TELL | 

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2024 

STAND 

A05 & A07 

JAG 


dgau.com.au 

JAG embodies the effortless 

sophistication of the Australian 

lifestyle, offering a versatile range of 

timepieces that are inspired by the 

country’s captivating landscapes. 

STAND 

C19 

Heart & Grace 

heartandgrace.com.au 

Fashion-forward, on-trend, ready-to-wear 

jewellery and watches from Heart & Grace. 

Whether it’s a statement piece or something to 

treasure every day, these brands will have you 

covered. Sterling silver, gold-plated jewellery and 

stainless steel watches all at affordable prices. 

STAND 

A06 

JS Landau Diamonds 

jslandaudiamonds.com 

STAND 

A12 

Icon & Diva 

ELLENDALE DIAMONDS 

ellendalediamonds.com.au 

JS Landau Diamonds is a longestablished 

and respected company 

that has been in business since 

1938. It proudly presents exclusive 

European and Antique-Style 

designs of the highest quality at 

a reasonable price. Specialises in 

precious colour gemstones and 

diamond jewellery. 

Ellendale Diamonds specialises 

in traceable and ethically sourced 

natural diamonds from the 

Argyle and Ellendale mines in 

the Kimberley region of Western 

Australia, renowned for producing 

the finest quality stones. 

STAND 

E13 

Kimberley Pendant 

IKECHO AUSTRALIA 

ikecho.com.au 

Ikecho is a prominent Australian 

wholesaler specialising in 

distributing high-quality pearls. 

The company distinguishes itself 

by crafting innovative and modern 

pearl designs that align with global 

trends and fashion movements. 


All the support you need 

as an independent jeweller. 

Merchandise - Retail - Marketing 

Finance - Community 

Benefit from our wealth of knowledge and expertise essential for the 

modern independent jewellery retailer. We offer support services in 

marketing, finance, administration, retail, training and education. Our 

members also enjoy generous discounts from our diverse network 

of preferred suppliers. Join a community of like-minded peers to 

connect and grow together. 

To find out more, contact us today. 

Email: enquiries@showcasejewellersgroup.com 

Phone: (02) 8566 1800 

Visit: showcasejewellersbuyinggroup.com 

SHOWCASE 

JEWELLERS


STAND 

B37 

Kira Diam 

kiradiam.com 

Kira Diam is driven by more than 30 years of experience in crafting 

ethically sourced gemstones and fine jewellery. The company offers 

a diverse range of impeccably cut diamonds ranging from 0.15 to 10 

carats and timeless jewellery pieces that redefine luxury. 

STAND 

C20 

La Couronne Jewellery 

lacouronnejewellery.com.au 

For 40 years, La Couronne has been proudly supplying the Australian 

jewellery industry, with a comprehensive product range together with 

complete marketing materials proven for the current market. An 

extensive product range consists of the finest quality 9-carat gold, 

18-carat gold, sterling silver and stainless steel set with diamonds and 

colour gemstones. 

(02) 9417 0177 | dgau.com.au

STAND 

G30 

Lagani 

lagani.co.nz 

FINE JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS 

LAGANI is a brand of lab-created 

diamond jewellery from New 

Zealand known for its exquisite 

craftsmanship and ethical 

approach. It showcases a diverse 

range of stunning pieces that cater 

to a global clientele. 

STAND 

A05 & A07 

Luminox 


dgau.com.au 

Luminox (LUMI is Latin for light, 

while NOX is Latin for night) 

was created in 1989, driven by a 

commitment to offer cutting-edge 

luminescence and readability 

in its line of high-performance 

sports watches. 

STAND 

C46 

Madame TJ Juwel 

madametj.com 

At Madame TJ Juwel Co. each 

piece has its own unique style and 

is carefully crafted to embrace the 

individuality and grace found in the 

natural world. Designs inspired by 

nature incorporate the details and 

the beauty of the earth, empowering 

wearers to express unique 

personality and style with elegance 

and authenticity. 

NEW COLLECTION 

NOW AVAILABLE 

visit markmcaskill.com.au 

ADELAIDE | BANGKOK 

+61 8 8352 1400 

sales@markmcaskill.com.au


STAND 

C10 

Mark McAskill Jewellery 

markmcaskill.com.au 

Mark McAskill Jewellery is a manufacturer of fine quality 9-carat, 

18-carat gold and platinum jewellery. Established in 1989, the 

company offers a range consisting of rings, earrings and pendants 

featuring both colour gemstone and diamond designs in the Aura, 

Lux, Pink Caviar, Estelle and Modern Bridal collections. 

STAND 

D10 

Maserati 



Maserati is not just a brand but 

an attitude. It is a way of life 

that features a special passion 

for challenges, a completely 

unique experience of luxury, 

and an unmistakable style that 

emerges above all in the details, 

just as in its watches: the 

perfect way to keep time with 

elegance and determination. 

STAND 

A02 

Mats Jonasson 

matsjonasson.com.au 

Mats Jonasson, a Swedish 

sculptor is internationally 

recognised for its engraved 

crystal and handmade collectable 

works spanning wildlife, botanical 

and art motifs. The owl sculpture 

is part of the 2023 designs. This 

piece will position itself well 

among other jewellery products.

STAND 

D10 

Maurice Lacroix 



For more than 40 years, Maurice 

Lacroix watches have been 

manufactured in the company's 

own state-of-the-art workshops 

in Saignelegier, Switzerland. The 

company has won over a dozen 

major awards for its watches over 

the years, with industry panels 

recognising its design, ingenious 

creativity and craftsmanship. 

STAND 

F13 

Maxum 



Introduced in 1999, Maxum is 

designed in Australia. Offering 

quality 100m water-resistant 

watches and combining form, 

function and fashion, Maxum 

is engineered to embrace the 

Australian way of life.


STAND 

H18 

Opals by Emmanuel 

Christianos 

christianos.com 

STAND 

A05 & A07 

Mondaine 


dgau.com.au 

The simple design, the 

unmistakable easy-to-read face, 

distinctive hands and the famous 

red seconds hand have made 

Mondaine timepieces uniquely 

recognised the world over. Ingenuity 

and simplicity are the combined 

elements that distinguish and 

define a truly iconic design classic. 

Opals by Emmanuel Christianos 

carries on a business that began 

in the 1950s in Coober Pedy. The 

company have since moved to 

Lightning Ridge, where they drill, 

mine, consolidate (wholesale) 

and export fine Australian Opals, 

including incredible black and 

crystal opals. 

STAND 

F40 

Orange River Diamonds 

orangeriver.com.au 

Based in Brisbane, Orange River River 

offers bespoke and mass manufacturing 

of fine jewellery for retail jewellers at 

competitive rates. 

STAND 

D01 

Nomination 

TIME SUPPLY 


Nomination is a worldwide leader in the 

steel and gold jewellery market. Nomination 

produces fashion jewellery for men and 

women using materials of the highest 

quality: stainless steel, 18-carat gold, 

cubic zirconia, precious and semi-precious 

gemstones and natural diamonds. 

STAND 

E50 

Pierre Lannier 

GERMAN CUCKOO CLOCK NEST 

clocks.com.au 

Pierre Lannier, a renowned French 

watchmaker, brings its elegant 

timepieces to Australia through a 

dedicated distribution network. These 

collections include sophisticated 

styles for both men and women, 

featuring precision craftsmanship 

and premium materials. 


STAND 

F10 

Pink Diamonds 

NINA'S JEWELLERY 

ninasjewellery.com.au 

Since 1965, Nina's Jewellery, one 

of the first Argyle Pink Diamonds 

Select Ateliers, has been creating 

quality pieces that celebrate the 

brilliance of natural fancy colour 

diamonds and pearls from the 

South Seas. 

STAND 

F18 

Pink Kimberley 


pinkkimberley.com.au 

Pink Kimberley pieces display 

bright, vibrant Argyle pink 

diamonds, set in lavish, 

precious designs. These pieces 

are a true representation of 

luxury and prestige.


STAND 

A08 

Planet Almas 

planetalmas.com.au 

With more than 70 years of 

combined experience in the 

jewellery industry, Planet Almas 

presents pieces that are wellpriced, 

beautiful and possess a 

high-end finish. 

STAND 

A05 & A07 

Police 


dgau.com.au 

ENJOY 

TIME WITH 

QUALITY, 

PRECISION 

TIMEPIECES 

CLOCKS.COM.AU 

info@clocks.com.au 

07) 5545 3997 

Right from the start, Police has 

stood for defining your own style— 

one that lives and thrives away from 

the catwalks and transient trends. 

The brand has always spoken the 

language of freedom and rebellion. 

STAND 

D50 

Preyas Jewellery 

preyasjewellery.com.au 

Preyas Jewellery is a leading 

wholesaler offering one of the 

largest collections of gemstone 

jewellery in Australia. These highquality, 

unique gemstones are set 

in nickel-free sterling silver. Crisp 

designs with European elegance.

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 2024 | SHOW & TELL 

STAND 

D01 

STAND 

C37 

PSC WSC 

Insurance Brokers 

wscbrokers.com.au 

With an experienced team and 

specialist partners, PSC WSC 

Insurance Brokers subscribes to an 

adamant philosophy that providing 

sound advice and service and 

obtaining competitive premiums is 

the core value that a client places 

on their broker. 

Qudo 

TIME SUPPLY 


Since its creation in 2009, German brand Qudo’s philosophy 

has been to inspire and excite jewellery lovers with clever and 

innovative ideas. It offers all the beauty and elegance of fine, 

must-have jewellery without the huge cost of solid precious 

metals, making it far more collectable and everyday friendly. 

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AJG.com/au/jewellers 

www.bespokejewels.com.au 

Instagram: bespokejewels.au 

hello@bespokejewels.com.au


STAND 

F13 

Rosefield 



STAND 

E43 

Simple details and pure luxury. 

Rosefield watches are luxuryinspired, 

affordable timepieces 

crafted expertly using the 

highest quality materials. Classic 

yet modern, minimalist yet 

contemporary, the range exudes 

the refinement, confidence and 

optimism of women of today. 

Rapid Casting 

rapidprototype.com.au 

Rapid Casting turns hand sketches, 

magazine pictures, company logos, 

or combinations of these into 

3D digital models. The talented 

jewellery CAD artists will work with 

you to perfect your design concepts. 

STAND 

A42 

RR Diamonds Australia 

STAND 

E44 

Retail Edge 

Consultants 

retailedgeconsultants.com.au 

Supplying Australia since 1974, RR Diamonds 

Australia is a prestigious wholesale company 

that has spanned two generations. Renowned 

for specialisation in Argyle pink diamonds, the 

company also offers an impressive selection 

of important white diamonds up to 40 carats 

and beyond, as well as a variety of fancy 

colour diamonds and ready-made jewellery. 

Are you ready to improve your retail 

profits? Retail Edge Consultants 

can assist your business through 

our software offering and highly 

successful retail consulting 

program. The areas in focus 

include: improved financials, highperforming 

stock, strategic sales 

increases, supplier partnerships, 

staff performance and retention, 

point of sale and Edge Pulse. 

STAND 

B36 

RJ Scanlan & Co 

scanlanandco.com.au 

RJ Scanlan is a family-owned 

business with more than 40 years 

of experience as an Australian 

supplier of fine jewellery. The 

company specialises in the 

distribution of premium European 

jewellery to retail stores throughout 

Australia and New Zealand. 



STAND 

A05 & A07 

Sekonda 


dgau.com.au 

Featuring an affordable range of 

models to suit any style, Sekonda 

combines timelessness with 

fashion to create a selection that 

appeals to all. 

STAND 

F18 

Sapphire Dreams 


sapphiredreams.com.au 

Sapphire Dreams Australia 

showcases a range of earrings, 

bracelets, necklaces, and 

rings, capturing the allure and 

timeless elegance of sapphires. 

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FAX: (07) 33683100 

WWW.LABANDA.COM.AU


STAND 

D01 

Sif Jakobs 

TIME SUPPLY 


The Danish award-winning jewellery 

brand Sif Jakobs Jewellery, designs 

and produces sophisticated 

jewellery of the highest standard 

with a modern expression. Highquality 

construction using sterling 

silver 925, 18-carat gold and 

18-carat rose gold platings, AAAcertified 

cubic zirconias and 100 per 

cent nickel free. 

STAND 

A12 

Soklich & Co. 

soklichco.com 

Soklich & Co. Jewellers are a 

Western Australian manufacturing 

jeweller with more than 58 years 

of experience in the industry. The 

company offers a personalised 

service and works along with 

customers to create beautiful 

handmade bespoke designs. 

STAND 

E01 

Signets 


becksgroup.au 

BECKS signet rings are 

proudly made in the South 

Australian studio. Highlighted 

by bold and eye-catching 

designs, these rings make a 

serious statement. 

STAND 

F01 

Stones & Silver 

stonesandsilver.com.au 

STAND 

H22 

Smokeshield 

smokeshield.com.au 

 

With nearly two decades of 

experience in supplying quality 

.925 sterling silver and gemstone 

jewellery to retailers across 

Australia and New Zealand, 

Stones & Silver has earned its 

reputation as a trusted partner for 

businesses seeking exceptional 

products and services. 

Smokeshield offers innovation, 

attention to detail, and 

professionalism at the forefront of 

technical advancement. Whether 

you need a small servicing or a 

full turnkey solution, the company 

has a diverse range of specialised 

divisions and can take care of 

your needs. 



STAND 

B19 

STAND 

F13 

Ted Baker 



Celebrating British fashion 

and heritage since 1988, Ted 

Baker is globally recognised for 

its menswear, womenswear, 

accessories and lifestyle 

collections. Crafted with exquisite 

attention to detail to keep you 

running fashionably on time, the 

Ted Baker watches collection is 

a tailor-made mix of elegance, 

precision and London flair. 

The Battery Man 

thebatteryman.com.au 

The Battery Man has been a 

trusted supplier to the industry 

for nearly 40 years and is one 

of the largest suppliers of Seiko 

watch batteries in Australia. The 

company is family-owned and 

operated and provides fast and 

friendly service.


STAND 

A05 & A07 

Thomas Sabo 


dgau.com.au 

Thomas Sabo collections bear 

the unmistakable signature of the 

company founder: a unique mix of 

glamour and Rock ‘n’ Roll, nostalgia 

and the modern. Each collection 

showcases a sensitivity for trends, 

flawless attention to detail and a 

passion for jewellery. 

STAND 

D13 

Tutu Display 

tutudisplay.com.au 

Tutu Display is dedicated to 

providing high-quality store fixtures 

and services for customers, such 

as watch stores, jewellery stores, 

clothing stores, cosmetics stores, 

exhibition booths, and display props. 

STAND 

D01 

UNOde50 

TIME SUPPLY 


STAND 

F13 

Timex 



Spanish handmade brand 

UNOde50 offers a very bold 

style that offers iconic designs 

for those looking for a truly 

unique range. 

For generations, Timex has 

held itself to higher standards 

and created watches that can 

be worn and loved for years 

because of their timeless 

design and legendary quality. 

STAND 

A05 & A07 

WOLF 


dgau.com.au 

WOLF is a symbol of decades 

of innovation and the undying 

pursuit of perfection, creating 

quality products that raise the 

standards of design. 



STAND 

E12 

Worth & Douglas 

worthdouglas.com 

Worth & Douglas is a family business, 

established in 1953 with offices 

in Australia and New Zealand. 

Manufacturers and wholesalers of 

W&D wedding rings, ZiRO – The Black 

Ring, Memento Flora and Fauna lines, 

bangles, men's jewellery, engagement 

rings, rings of all kinds, earrings, 

pendants, sovereign coin jewellery 

and more. 

STAND 

G36 

World Shiner 

worldshiner.com 

Established in 1996, World Shiner is a wholesale company for 

diamonds and fine diamond jewellery. It carries an extensive 

range of diamonds in all sizes, shapes, clarity, and colours. 

Retailers are invited to view the extensive range of pink and 

white diamonds and 18-carat high-quality jewellery.

A SHOW TO REMEMBER 

Hong Kong 

In a congregation that offered 

valuable insights into the future of the 

trade, thousands of members of the 

international jewellery industry converged 

on Hong Kong for a bustling week of trade 

and exchange. 

Jewellery and Gem Asia Hong Kong (JGA) has 

come and gone for another year, concluding 

at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition 

Centre (HKCEC) on 23 June after four 

productive days of trade. 

This was the second show after a four-year 

hiatus due to the COVID-19 pandemic. 

While the previous fair was focused on 

‘rebounding and recovering’ amid an adverse 

economy, this meeting was fixated on planning 

for the future. 

As part of a new initiative, event organisers 

Informa Markets launched the Sustainability 

Awards 2024, with an expert panel from the 

jewellery and gemstone industry judging the 

efforts of businesses of all sizes. 

There are five categories: environmental 

stewardship, social empowerment, 

manufacturing innovation, community 

engagement and sustainability leadership. 

The finalists of each category were announced 

on the fair's opening day. The winners will be 

crowned in September at Jewellery and Gem 

World Hong Kong (JGW). 

As part of the announcement, senior vice president 

of Informa Markets, David Bondi, recalled some 

famous wisdom: that the best way to predict the 

future is to create it. 

“Sustainability is often discussed; however, seldom 

understood,” he said. 

“Purposeful sourcing is increasingly important in 

the jewellery industry. While it might involve extra 

effort, the satisfaction makes it all worth it.” 

Celine Lau, director of exhibitions at Informa 

Markets, echoed these sentiments. She said 

that sustainability is a ‘family affair’ and that it 

was important for each member of the jewellery 

industry to spread the word. 

“There are many companies that have been 

working hard behind the scenes over the past few 

years to improve their practices, and we believe it’s 

important to acknowledge them,” she said. 

“Indeed, everyone named as a finalist in these 

awards is a winner in their own right.” 

Let’s go for a walk 

Walking the floor of the jewellery fair for three 

days was an informative experience. The diamond 

section struggled to gain traction as overbearing 

concerns about the future of the trade took hold. 

Indeed, the broader jewellery industry has been 

buffeted by various issues. Among the more 

common issues raised by visitors and exhibitors 

were the record-high price of gold and the rising 

cost of silver. There were also concerns about 

consumer confidence and decreasing discretionary 

spending. 

Many raised the ongoing confusion consumers 

report about the rivalry between natural and 

lab-created diamonds. 

In short, learning about the differences and 

similarities between the two categories can 

be easy; however, consumers still find it hard 

to comprehend the sharp price difference for 

something chemically identical. 

Beyond those hot topics, visitors also expressed 

reservations about the ongoing impact of the 

war in Ukraine, the punitive sanctions placed 

against the Russian diamond industry, and the 

flow-on effect of these prohibitions on jewellery 

businesses. 

The two Informa Markets shows in Hong Kong 

contrast in terms of focus: the June show is 

focused on the Asian market, while the September 

show is global in nature. 

With that in mind, consumer spending on 

diamond jewellery in China was also a hot 

topic of discussion. 

Hong Kong retailer Luk Fook recently described 

the demand for diamond jewellery as ‘subdued’ 

in mainland China. 

It was a similar story for Chow Tai Fook, which 

despite reporting record revenue in the past year, 

announced a 13 per cent decline in sales 

of diamond and colour gemstone jewellery. 

When quizzed about this topic, Diamond 

Federation of Hong Kong chairman Victor Yiu 

made an interesting observation about China's 

expanding middle class. 


According to the Pew Research Centre, the 

share of China’s population in the middleincome 

group increased from 3.1 per cent in 

2000 to more than 50 per cent by 2018. 

Yiu said that with increased access to tertiary 

education and professional careers, young 

Chinese couples are delaying the ‘major 

moments’ of life – including marriage and 

children – and these milestones are often 

intricately connected with diamond jewellery. 

There’s considerable data to support this position. 

Statistics from China's Ministry of Civil Affairs 

released in 2023 revealed that in 2022, 6.83 million 

couples registered their marriages, down from 

7.63 million in 2021, a record low since 1986. 

Yiu said it was similar to what’s been witnessed 

in Western countries over the past two decades 

– and Australia is no exception. 

Recent research suggested that as many 

as one in seven Australian adults has a ‘de 

facto’ partner following a significant decline in 

marriage among those 35 and younger. 

As such, Yiu said there’s little reason to doubt 

that young consumers still have an emotional 

connection with diamond jewellery - it’s simply 

being realised later in life. 

Splash of colour 

Among the crowd of exhibitors was Kunming 

Diamonds, displaying a dazzling area of fancy 

colour diamonds. 

Marketing director Shubham Maheshwari said 

that because of the unique nature of the category, 

fancy colour diamonds have been somewhat 

sheltered from the broader challenges facing the 

diamond industry. 

“Market research has certainly been on the agenda 

of every visitor I’ve spoken to so far. Everyone is 

keen to see what’s available,” he explains. 

“Slow and steady has been the overwhelming 

sentiment as far as retailers are concerned. 

For our business, it’s a matter of relationship 

building. Connecting in person with partners 

and customers is invaluable.” 

Maheshwari said that recent high-profile auctions 

of fancy colour diamonds have kept the passion for 

these unique stones burning bright – and it’s hard 

to argue otherwise. 

Known as the Eden Rose, a ring featuring a 

10-carat fancy intense pink diamond was recently 

sold at Christie’s in New York. The pre-sale 

estimate at the 11 June auction was $USD9 million 

($AUD13.59 million).; however, the piece was sold 

for $USD13.3 million ($AUD20.08 million). 

At another auction in Geneva, a pink diamond 

was sold for $USD12 million ($AUD17.98 

million). The 6.21-carat fancy vivid pink type 

IIa diamond ring was the headline act of the 

13 May Geneva Jewels Auction. 

The Argyle Phoenix, a 1.56-carat fancy red 

diamond ring, also impressed buyers, returning 

close to triple its high estimate at $USD4.2 

million ($AUD6.29 million). 

“I think the fancy colour diamond market is very 

healthy, and in particular, we are experiencing 

a great deal of interest in fancy vivid yellows,” 

Maheshwari continues. 

“Auctions are still helping the industry significantly. 

They generate a lot of excitement and keep the 

enthusiasm for these pieces alive. 

“Fancy colour diamond collectors and customers 

are a unique type of consumer. 

"They’re very passionate and eager to learn all 

that they can. I think that it’s somewhat rare in the 

jewellery industry to have customers so devoted to 

researching the stones.” 

Strands of pearls 

As expected, the pearl section was a whirlpool of 

activity. Thousands of visitors piled into the pavilion 

each day to frantically negotiate prices over 

glowing strands of aquatic treasures. 

The fair offers a selection of pearls in various 

types, qualities, and prices. Suppliers of Akoya, 

South Sea, Tahitian, and freshwater pearls offer 

them in parcels, pairs, and strands. 

Designers and manufacturers showcase their 

newest collections of pearl jewellery, from 

larger-than-life statement pieces to stylish 

accessories ideal for everyday wear. 

It was a memorable trip to Hong Kong for Autore 

Pearls, as the company was named a finalist in 

the Environmental Stewardship category of the 

2024 Sustainability Awards. 

Sam Shelley said the company was proud to be 

recognised for its sustainability and regenerative 

farming efforts. 

“What many people don't understand is pearl 

farming benefits the environment,” he explained. 

“It doesn't leave a footprint. The act of growing 

oysters is beneficial to the ocean. Oysters filter 

the water, and they hang freely from the lines. 

They don't obstruct any wildlife or catch anything in 

the nets, and oysters are also food for the fish.” 

“We’ve been supporting local communities 

with our beach cleanup efforts and coral reef 

regeneration programs employ the indigenous 

people in Indonesia, providing school funding.” 


Autore's Enchantress necklace in 18-carat rose 

gold, adorned with 16 carats of pink diamonds 

and 23 carats of white diamonds, was proudly 

on display. 

A pear-shaped white diamond shines like a crown 

at the serpent's head, while the eyes and nostrils 

are embellished with rubies, black diamonds, 

and moonstones. The piece features 26 South 

Sea Keshi pearls collected over eight years. 

"In terms of jewellery, South Sea pearls are a 

major focus for us," Shelley continues. 

"The basics like studs and hooks will always be 

attractive to people, particularly because of the 

quality of the pearls. 

"We're seeing a move towards colour gemstones, 

which is interesting. We've been incorporating 

more and more colour gemstones into our new 

collections. People are chasing colour at the 

moment. 

Colours of the rainbow 

The fair offered opportunities to source the colour 

gemstone staples – ruby, sapphire, and emerald 

– alongside other eye-catching natural wonders 

such as tourmaline, spinel, tanzanite, alexandrite, 

morganite and more. 

Over the past four years, increasing prices for 

colour gemstones have been attributed to supply 

constraints, economic fluctuations, and rising 

consumer demand. 

Recent high prices at auctions are expected to 

impact market dynamics. 

With that said, despite the considerable rise in 

prices for colour gemstones in recent years, 

there remains a steady demand in the market. 

When on the hunt for an Australian presence 

at one of the largest jewellery fairs, opals 

stand out prominently. 

Opals have surged in popularity among Asian 

consumers in recent years, creating significant 

demand that challenges the supply chain. 

“Once upon a time, we had to rely on word-ofmouth 

to increase the popularity of opals and opal 

jewellery,” Tom King of Opal Pacific tells Jeweller. 

“Today, we are finding that interest in Australian 

opal is always rising. All varieties of opal are 

popular with Asian consumers; however, black 

opal is highly sought after.” 

Based in Auckland today, King says he still 

travels to the opal fields at least once a month. 

"We are really happy with the fair. Day one was 

busy enough to meet our budget, and it's been 

strong in the days that followed," he says. 

“I’ve found that Chinese markets tend to become 

knowledgeable and informed about trends very 

quickly, and I suppose it’s because of social media. 

Word about the beauty of Australian opal has 

certainly spread near and far.” 

Located nearby, the Red Radiance 2.0 – The 

Ruby’s Mine To Make Adventure attraction was 

a consistent hit with the visitors to the fair. 

An immersive experience, visitors were greeted 

by an in-person demonstration of ruby cutting by 

world-class artist Victor Tuzukov. 

Starting his career 24 years ago as a marine 

navigator and economist, Tuzlukov quickly 

became renowned for his mastery of gemstone 

cutting. 

He earned a graduate gemmology degree from GIA 

Moscow and gained international acclaim through 

numerous competition wins. 

In May 2020, his 3,051-carat kunzite, Fragility of 

the Eternal, set a Guinness World Record for the 

largest faceted spodumene, boasting 928 facets. 

His 116-carat tsavorite, Lion of Merelani, is 

housed in the Smithsonian and considered 

among the world's most significant gemstones. 

The exhibition included examples of various 

ruby specimens and remarkable jewellery 

and accessories crafted from ruby and gold. 

These include the Kleodora Queen Blue Clutch, 

made by ‘L’Aquart. 

The exhibition also included the chance to view 

ruby specimens through a microscope, with many 

visitors studying inclusions up close and personal 

for the first time. 

A special showroom was also established, 

allowing visitors to examine rubies with 

special ultraviolet torches. 

Wave of the future 

On 21 June, the JGA Spotlight: Meet the 

Future of Jewellery Design panel was hosted. 

The event featured Austy Lee of Austy Lee Art 

Jewellery, Sarah Zhuang of Sarah Zhuang Jewellery, 

and Vitoria Wu of Osi Vitoria Jewelry. It was hosted 

by Pinky Seung, chairperson of the International 

Jewellery Designers Association. 

A considerable amount of the discussion was 

dedicated to the future of the jewellery industry, 

with the panellists suggesting that it’s never been 

easier for individual designers to spread the word 

about their work. 

Social media was identified as the best way 

to achieve this, with the panellists agreeing to 

four crucial principles when it comes to digital 

marketing: consistency, creativity, personalisation, 

and research. 

The impact of Artificial Intelligence (AI) was also 

discussed at length, with these programs identified 

as helpful in assisting designers and jewellery 

manufacturers. With that said, it was agreed that 

they cannot replace or meet the needs of intricate 

human preferences. 

Action and excitement return to Hong Kong with 

Jewellery and Gem World Hong Kong (JGW) 

from September 16 to 22. As the ruby exhibition 

has concluded, visitors will be greeted next time 

by RIENT Odyssey: From Shell to Market: The 

Fascinating Life of Pearls. 

As mentioned, the winners of the 2024 Sustainability 

Awards will also be announced. Once again, the 

show will be held at the Hong Kong Convention and 

Exhibition Centre and the Asia World Expo. 


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The world’s No.1 jewellery event is 

happening this September in Hong Kong! 

Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong (JGW), the biggest B2B 

sourcing event of its kind, is offering an exceptional platform for 

the buying community to connect, forge partnerships and gain 

firsthand industry insights. 

Leveraging its “One Show, Two Venues” concept, JGW will 

host the jewellery materials section, featuring loose diamonds, 

coloured gemstones, pearls and other precious materials, at 

the AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) from 16 – 20 September, and will 

showcase finished jewellery, packaging solutions, and tools, 

equipment and technologies from 18 – 22 September at the Hong 

Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). 

Anticipated to host 3,300+ exhibitors from 40+ countries 

and regions, JGW will occupy more than 40 pavilions, including 

the renowned Fine Gem Pavilion (FGP), Fine Design Pavilion 

(FDP), International Premier Pavilion and CORE Pavilion – a 

section highlighting some of Hong Kong’s leading jewellery 

manufacturers. 

Edison Pearls, Hatta New World Co Ltd, Jewelmer, Paspaley and 

other key players in this sector. It is anticipated to highlight some 

of the most famous pearls in history, the latest advancements 

in modern pearl cultivation, testing and grading, and exceptional 

pearl collections, among others. 

Complementing the exhibition is a series of seminars on 

timely topics, further solidifying JGW’s position as the global 

meeting point for jewellery professionals. 

“Whether attendees are seeking to explore the latest trends 

or discover new designers and suppliers, they will find that 

JGW is an indispensable resource for staying ahead in the 

industry,” shared Celine Lau, Director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa 

Markets Jewellery. 

Online registration is open. 

New to JGW 

This year, JGW is raising the bar with the Sustainability 

Awards 2024 by JWA (Jewellery World Awards), a global initiative 

that honours outstanding sustainability efforts undertaken by 

businesses of all sizes in the fine jewellery, gemstone and 

related industries. The Award Recipients will receive recognition 

at the JGW Fair Reception on 18 September. Moreover, finalists 

and winners have been invited to share their inspiring journeys, 

challenges and successes at JGW’s Sustainability Heroes 

Panel Series. 

Also not to be missed is the brand-new Gold Jewellery 

Pavilion, a section dedicated to jewellery collections and 

accessories crafted from the precious metal. Here, buyers may 

immerse themselves in the offerings presented by China’s major 

gold jewellery manufacturers. 

Pearls, nature’s timeless wonders, are the stars of Orient 

Odyssey, a special showcase presented by Informa’s Jewellery & 

Gem Knowledge Community in collaboration with Autore Pearls, 

Visitor Enquiry 

T +852 3709 4992 

E visitjgf-hk@informa.com 

REGISTER

HISTORY LESSON 

Back in Time 

IN THE FRENCH JURA 

The Jura Mountains in France hide a surprising past. Cheesemaking 

and gemcutting once thrived in these villages, a unique blend 

unseen today. JUSTIN K PRIM explores this fascinating history 

of the gemcutting cheesemakers of Septmoncel.

A mid-20th century view of Septmoncel. 

T 

ucked away in eastern France, 

near the Swiss border, is the Jura, 

a forest-covered mountain range 

that harbours a rich, hidden history in 

its secluded villages. 

If you were to visit these villages today, a casual 

observer might not notice anything which would 

indicate this region’s combined importance in 

the trades of gemcutting and cheesemaking. 

The mountain range is extensive; however, 

the scattered villages around the city of Saint- 

Claude have an unexpectedly unique story. 

The Jura mountains, whose name is derived 

from the Celtic word for ‘forest,’ have had people 

living on them since at least the 13th century. 

It’s a beautiful place; however, it has proven to 

be a challenging locality for people to survive. 

Harsh winters and poor soil mean that vegetable 

farming rarely yields anything of interest. 

The people who decided to call the Jura home 

have historically needed to look for other ways 

to feed themselves and earn a living. Raising 

cattle for meat and milk has long been a 

necessary tradition in the Jura. 

The area has long since had a tradition of 

cheesemaking, and local legend tells us 

how the techniques for producing cheese 

came to the region. 

Tales of yesterday 

Once, a monk from Chézery recklessly ventured 

into the middle of the mountains during a violent 

snowstorm, intending to go to Saint-Claude. 

Lost in the forest after hours of walking, 

blinded by large snowflakes and surrounded 

by wolves waiting for prey, the exhausted old 

monk let himself fall into the snow. 

Soon, a rugged mountain man, capable of 

facing the storm, passed by. He noticed the 

man covered in snow and realised he was still 

alive. He put the monk over his shoulders and 

carried him home in an attempt to save him. 

Warm and well-cared for in the peasant’s poor 

home, the monk gradually regained strength. 

Alive and well, the monk wanted to thank the 

family he owed his life to. 

The best way he could think of was to gift 

him the secret cheese-making technique that 

only the Chézery monks knew. Thanks to this 

production, this modest mountain family has 

lived in great material comfort since then. 

The secret gradually reached the rest of the 

mountain, generating real prosperity. 

For half a millennium, the other primary 

industry in this part of the Jura has been 

gemcutting, and local legend also tells 

about the origins of that trade. 

The story says that a watchmaker from 

Geneva named Michaud introduced 

gemcutting techniques to the Jura in 1735. 

The farming villages dotted across the 

mountaintops eagerly took to the trade 

because it gave them winter work without 

agricultural income. 

The soil is poor quality in the higher mountain 

altitudes, so the farms were meager. This 

might explain why the lapidary and cheese trade 

excelled in these plateau villages and in the 

Valserine Valley. 

Cheesemaking centre 

Goats and sheep have long occupied the 

mountainous areas of southern Haut-Jura; 

however, some cows were present, especially 

in the valleys and the local cheeses were 

traditionally made from goat and cow milk. 

The significant implantation of cows dates 

only from the 18th century when the textile 

industry, relying on goats and sheep, turned to 

other localities. This new bovine breed made it 

possible to develop the manufacturing process 

for ‘chevret’ and ‘blue’ cheese. 

Strangely enough, the centre of both of these 

traditions, cheesemaking and gemcutting, lies 

in the town of Septmoncel, a small mountain 

village 12 kilometres outside the local capital 

city of Saint-Claude. 

Bleu de Septmoncel cheese on a traditional Jurassian 

gemcutting bench. 


HISTORY LESSON | Blue Sapphires & Blue Cheese 

Like Morbier, Bleu de Septmoncel was a 

women’s specialty. These two productions 

did not require, like Gruyère, the difficult 

manipulations of a well-muscled man. 

They were also relatively quick and required 

simpler hardware. As a result, the farmers 

had the opportunity to become the masters 

of these productions in their own homes. 

Bleu de Septmoncel has a delicate yellowish 

crust and is slightly floury under the finger. 

The ivory-white cheese is spotted with 

somewhat pale blue-green veins that give 

off a characteristic nutty flavour. 

A 20th century card depicting the products of the Jura including cheese from Septmoncel. 

Digging a little deeper, we can find factual 

accounts that help back up these anecdotal 

local legends. 

The origins of cheesemaking in the region 

seem to date back to the 12th century 

when monks from Dauphiné introduced the 

production technique to the monks in the 

abbey at Saint-Claude. 

Several documents, dating from around the 

beginning of the 19th century, shed light on 

the unique blue cheese that the residents of 

Septmoncel have since become known for. 

The lawyer and deputy Christin, Voltaire’s 

wrestling companion, presents in June of 1791 

a report defending the maintenance of the 

activities of the Salines de Montmorot, whose 

production is necessary for the manufacturers 

of the cheeses of ‘Gruyère’ and ‘Septmoncel’. 

In 1799, the Breton Lequinio, in his ‘Voyage 

Picturesque dans le Jura’, tells us, “To 

the south-east of Saint-Claude, and about 

two leagues from this town, you will find 

Septmoncel, a large village, and the capital 

of the district where the excellent cheeses 

that bear its name are made. 

“These are blue cheeses like those of Roquefort 

and which approach them in taste as much as 

in the appearance of the cut. It is one of the 

best types of cheese in France; and if it is not 

generally known there, it is because the district 

which supplies it is not large enough to produce 

a very considerable quantity of it.” 

A document from a little before 1800 indicates: 

“The so-called Septmoncel cheese is made 

exclusively in the communes of Septmoncel, 

Les Moussières, Bellecombe and Bouchoux; 

these last three do not even make any others. 

“Unlike Gruyère cheese, which is made with 

the help of a large number of cow owners 

mixing their milk to produce cheeses of 15, 

20 to 30 decimal pounds, these are made 

separately in each home. 

“Septmoncel cheese, having reached its point 

of maturity, is one of the best-known and has 

valuable properties for digestion. It would be 

better known if it could be transported further 

away. It goes to Lyon, Geneva, and Besançon, 

where it is very sought after; but only a small 

quantity is taken to Paris.” 

Also in 1799, François-Nicolas Eugène Droz, 

writes in a letter: “As for the Septmoncel 

cheese, after it has been purified, turned 

and returned in the mould, wiped on shelves 

placed around the wooden fireplace which is 

in the middle of the kitchen; it remains there 

for a few days… it ferments, then it is dried 

in the fireplace, and when it is completely 

dry, it is placed in the cellar from the field, 

safe from flies and mice; they then weigh 

15 to 20 pounds…” 

This cheese, he writes, is made by women. 

He explains; “The advantage of this production 

consists in the fact that … the whole thing costs 

nothing to manufacture, being done by women 

and children, while for the Gruyère, you need 

cheesemakers which cost [150 francs] for four 

months and which require good food; finally, 

Bleu de Septmoncel is usually sold in Lyon for 

five francs per quintal more than Gruyère.” 

A gemcutting workshop in Gex, early 20th century. 

It has a medium flavour that’s slightly fruity 

with hints of vanilla, spices, and mushrooms. 

Considerably larger than most blues, it is also 

recognisable thanks to its deep yellow inner 

paste and a high proportion of blue mould. 

It is firm and dense in texture, like a Stilton, 

but it tastes much spicier and less sweet. 

Gemcutting hub 

The story of Jurassian gemcutting is more 

complex than the origins of cheesemaking in 

the region. The part of the Jura that borders 

Geneva saw many population groups move 

back and forth over the years. 

With the rise of Calvinism in the 16th and 

17th centuries, many of nearby Geneva’s 

Catholic artisans from the watchmaking 

industry were pushed west across the 

French border due to religious persecution. 

At that time, Geneva was experiencing an 

exceptionally prosperous period with many 

wealthy merchants. 

When the extremist Calvinists rose to power, 

they pushed the merchants, watchmakers, 

jewellers, and their associated lapidaries 

out of the city. 


This brought many families and their trade 

secrets to the Jura region, and Saint-Claude 

became a kind of mountaintop sanctuary for 

Catholic pilgrims. 

The local pastime handicraft of producing 

small wooden religious items meant that the 

local Jurassians already had a meticulous 

skillset when the lapidary trade arrived, and it 

spread quickly. It seems that the first lapidaries 

were present in the Jura around 1550. 

In 1685, with the Revocation of the Edict 

of Nantes, Protestant jewellers from the 

diamond-cutting trade were pushed out of 

an increasingly Catholic France, and many 

took refuge in Geneva. This revitalised 

the Swiss watchmaking industry and, by 

association, boosted the lapidary activity 

in the Jura. 

For this reason, the famous Protestant explorer, 

gemstone merchant, and jeweller of King Louis 

XIV, Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, sold his chateau in 

Aubonne near the base of the Jura mountains 

and left for Russia and, hopefully, safer lands to 

settle in. 

In 1704, the use of ruby bearings in mechanical 

watches was developed.The demand for tiny 

custom-cut rubies increased exponentially, 

giving rise to many lapidary shops around the 

Jura in villages such as Septmoncel and Mijoux 

and, a bit further down the mountain, closer to 

Geneva, in Gex. 

By 1770, there were 600 lapidaries working on 

the plateau of the Jura. From there, the industry 

increases steadily. 

Lapidary families such as Gauthier-Clerc, 

Dalloz-Furet, Hugon, Roland, Fournier, and 

Chevassus-Berche started to show their 

products to jewellers in Paris, and some 

families became merchants, facilitating the 

transfer of cut gemstones between the Jura 

and Paris. 

By 1770, this relationship with France’s capital 

caused the Jura to experience an economic 

boom. The Jurassian women began to dress 

themselves in the latest Parisian fashions 

and the town of Septmoncel became known 

as ‘Little Paris.’ 

Jurassian Dairy Farmer, early 20th century. 


A gemcutting workshop in Septmoncel in the early 20th Century. 

Cheesemaking lapidaries 

Let's consider that most of the gemcutting work 

in the Jura was done at home by family groups, 

such as husband and wife or brother and 

brother. We can imagine how easily these family 

groups would have shifted modes between the 

winter and summer. 

When the weather was nice, it was time to tend 

to the cows and the milk and the cheese. When 

the weather turned cold and snowed you in, it 

was time to focus on gemcutting. 

In this way, the Jura families could survive for 

hundreds of years and increase their standard 

of living from simple peasants in the 16th and 

17th centuries to ‘Little Paris’ in the 18th, 19th, 

and 20th centuries. 

Not only did the lapidary farmers raise and 

milk cows, but they also possessed the secret 

of cheesemaking. As time passed, they 

developed specific techniques to make a kind of 

blue cheese that would become known as Bleu 

de Septmoncel, later known as Bleu de Gex. 

Like cheesemaking, gemcutting was also 

very much a women’s art. In surviving photos, 

we often see more women than men in French 

gemcutting factories and studios. 

In 1856, Alphonse Rousset, in the Dictionary 

of the Communes of Jura, wrote the following: 

“The main source of income for residents is 

cheese making. This production includes only 

the famous blue cheeses known as Septmoncel 

as well as Chevret, a sort of small squareshaped 

cheese with a soft consistency, which 

are not likely to be exported far away and are 

consumed almost exclusively in Franche- 

Comté; manufacturing has seven main cheese 

centres, each formed from the meeting of a 

certain number of owners or farmers who pool 

the daily product of their livestock and then 

share the sale price." 

He continued: “Independently of these 

associations, there are still a few individuals, 

but in very small numbers, who alone or with 

the help of one or two neighbours also engage 

in the same manufacturing.” 

Therefore, the transition from manufacturing to 

cheese production had already become a reality. 

“There are as many cheese factories as there 

are households. Each resident makes their 

own cheeses in their home. We make two kinds 

of it, one called Septmoncel, which is of the 

first quality, and the other called Gruyère. The 

production of blue cheese amounts to 40,000 

kilograms annually. It originated in this town.” 

In 1861, the Annuaire du Jura said explicitly: 

“This type of cheese is made in the cantons 

of Saint-Claude and Morez; There are no 

cheese companies for grey-blue cheeses; 

each cow owner makes and sells for his own 

account. Twenty-three municipalities were 

manufacturing them at the time.” 

It was likely that gemcutting men would tend 

to the fields and the cows while the gemcutting 

women would work on the production of the 

Bleu de Septmoncel when the weather warmed. 

Development of two industries 

Over the next 150 years, the lapidary trade 

in the Jura continued to increase. 

By 1920, it’s estimated that there were 

8,000 lapidaries in the Jura Mountains, 

with the significant gemcutting centre 

being Septmoncel. 

These cutters mainly were cattle farmers 

seeking employment in the winter months, 

though some families chose to cut all year. 

With Auguste Verneuil’s creation of the 

synthetic ruby, the Jura became proficient in 

producing faceted synthetic gemstones. After 

World War I, the lapidary activity in Jura peaked.

HISTORY LESSON | Blue Sapphires & Blue Cheese 

In the 1920s, there was an increased demand 

for square sapphires and baguettes with 

lozenge tables, which the US market was very 

fond of. 

These gemstones were sold in Paris, which 

had become an important gemstone and 

jewellery trading centre. 

The financial crisis of the 1930s hit the Jura 

cutting industry and destroyed many local 

lapidary businesses. 

In the 1950s, another wave of financial despair 

moved through the region and nearly wiped out 

all the at-home workshops. 

The home gemcutting business declined until 

1989 when the final home workshop closed. 

Fortunately, the blue cheese industry has 

survived better than the Jurassian lapidary 

industry. 

Director of the National Dairy School of Poligny, 

P. Sajous, noted in 1935: “Due to 

the difficulties of transporting milk for farms 

far from villages, farm manufacturing still 

has great importance.” 

By 1859, 23 municipalities in the borough of 

Saint Claude produced 253,000 kilograms of 

Bleu de Septmoncel. 

A card advertising Bleu de Septmoncel. 

Cows grazing in the green fields of the Jura, early 20th century. 

At the start of production, the peasants made 

cheese on the farms; however, progressive 

currents in the Saint Claude sector and 

economic prospects caused the birth of 

cooperative groups who produced the local 

cheeses, including Bleu de Septmoncel. 

By 1931, these cooperatives produced 560 

tonnes of the unique blue cheese compared 

with only 120 tonnes on isolated farms. 

In the middle of the 20th century, throughout 

the Haut Jura, there were more than 30 cheese 

production collectives of various importance, 

and the Municipality of Septmoncel had four 

of them, located in the hamlets of Vie Neuve, 

Montépile, Clavière and Manon. 

The success of the cheese and the 

manufacturing collectives led the Ministry 

of Culture, with the financial support of 

the General Council and the Chamber of 

Agriculture of the Jura, to create a mixed 

training school for cheese making in La Pesse 

in 1925. 

This training was led by teachers from L’E.N.I.L. 

in Poligny and operated each year over four 

winter-time months. 

In France, the appellation d’origine 

contrôlée (AOC) is a label that identifies 

products produced in a defined 

geographical area — the terroir —using 

recognised and traditional techniques. 

Bleu de Septmoncels cheese, also known as 

Bleu de Gex, was able to define its terroir and 

protect its heritage and name, being one of the 

first to receive the AOC label in 1935. 

Bleu de Gex (as it is mainly known today) also 

has a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). 

This European label guarantees consumers 

that all stages of production take place in the 

delimited geographical area of the Appellation 

— the Haut-Jura, straddling the departments 

of Ain and Jura. 

All manufacturing, from milk production to 

cheese maturing, takes place exclusively in 

this area. 

Today, two cooperative cheesemakers make 

Bleu de Gex, and only one farm workshop 

remains. 

On the cutting side, two small workshops 

remain in Saint-Claude and the surrounding 

region. 

Fortunately, it’s still possible to have gemstones 

cut in the centre that was once the biggest in 

the world, and it’s still possible to taste the 

unique flavour of Bleu de Septmoncel, the 

cheese that the gem-cutters of Septmoncel 

started making more than 200 years ago. 

JUSTIN K PRIM is an American gem-cutter. 

He has studied gem-cutting traditions worldwide 

and attended gemmology programs at GIA and 

AIGS.Prim taught gemmology and gemcutting 

at AIGS and IGT in Bangkok, and in 2021, he 

published his first book, The Secret Teachings 

of Gemcutting. He is the founder of Faceting 

Apprentice, an online gem-cutting school, and 

he also writes articles, produces videos and 

gives talks about gem-cutting history. Visit: 

www.justinkprim.com 


BUSINESS 

Strategy 

Lessons in psychology from 

Charlie Munger 

To fix an issue, we must understand how it occurred. 

DAVID BROWN explores the psychology behind decision-making. 

In November, the world lost one of the 

great investors. Charlie Munger was 

just five weeks shy of his 100th birthday 

- a man who'd learned two lifetimes of 

lessons in one. 

As Warren Buffett's right-hand man, 

Munger amassed a fortune as a 

shrewd investor. His understanding 

of human nature, as something of an 

amateur psychologist, prepared him 

well for this process. 

Ironically, in the end, he broke one of his 

own cardinal rules – know where you’re 

going to die, and make sure you never 

go there! 

Many of Munger’s observations of human 

nature in investing also apply equally 

to understanding staff and customer 

behaviour. Read the following observations 

closely, and remember them next time 

you’re managing your business. 

Reward and punishment: Human beings 

are often driven by the prospect of reward or 

the fear of punishment. 

Whether a customer seeks discounts or an 

employee strives for a promotion, the allure 

of rewards and the aversion to punishments 

shape decision-making processes. 

Like and love: People tend to overlook faults 

or favour individuals, products, or actions 

associated with the things they love. 

This bias can influence customer loyalty 

and employee commitment, as individuals 

gravitate towards what resonates with 

their emotions. 

The old saying that we ‘buy the people, not 

the product’ has never been more accurate. 

Dislike and hate: Conversely, the dislike and 

hate tendency drives individuals away from 

objects or people they harbour negative 

feelings towards. 

This aversion can lead to customer 

churn or workplace conflicts if not 

addressed effectively. 

Doubt avoidance: The rush to make quick 

decisions without all the facts stems from a 

doubt avoidance tendency. 

This may lead to impulsive purchases 

in customer service, while in staff 

management, it can result in hasty 

decisions without proper evaluation and 

consideration. 

Inconsistency and avoidance: Human 

beings are often reluctant to take the 

actions needed to change or eliminate 

bad habits. 

This tendency can hinder organisational 

improvement if employees resist adapting to 

new processes or technologies. Put simply, 

this tendency can be attributed to our 

inherent laziness. 

The simpler you make a task, the more 

likely it is to happen. 

Curiosity: Curiosity drives exploration 

and discovery, influencing customer 

engagement with new products or services 

and inspiring staff to seek innovative 

solutions to challenges. 

This can often appear in our desire to ‘see 

something new’, whether it is more product 

choices or a new staff training means. 

Fairness: The innate desire to do what is 

suitable for others guides customer service 

interactions and workplace dynamics, 

Human beings 

are often 

reluctant 

to take the 

actions needed 

to change or 

eliminate bad 

habits. 

fostering trust and cooperation. 

We inherently want to do what's right or 

what’s just in most circumstances. 

Envy and jealousy: Warren Buffett once 

remarked, "It's not greed that drives the 

world but envy." 

Envy can fuel consumer trends and 

workplace dynamics, influencing 

perceptions of fairness and equality. Envy 

between staff over their perceived equal 

treatment or customers over getting the 

same ‘good deal’ as someone else can 

motivate many adverse reactions. 

Reciprocation: The desire to reciprocate 

favours received influences customer 

loyalty programs and workplace 

camaraderie, creating mutually 

beneficial relationships. 

Association: The inclination to believe in 

social proof affects consumer purchasing 

decisions and employee perceptions of 

organisational culture. 

This phenomenon explains why ‘likes’ on 

social media and customer Google reviews 

have become such critical parts of the 

purchasing process. 

Most people would rather be wrong than 

go against the accepted group-think! 

Understanding these psychological 

tendencies is crucial for businesses 

aiming to optimise customer experiences 

and foster a positive work environment. 

By recognising and addressing these 

influences, organisations can better meet 

the needs of both customers and staff, 

ultimately driving success in an everevolving 

marketplace. 


Deeper down the rabbit hole 

In the intricate web of human behaviour, 

many psychological traits influence how 

we interact with each other and the world 

around us. 

From the desire for rewards to avoiding 

pain, these traits significantly shape 

customer and staff behaviour within 

various contexts. 

Let's delve further into the intricate nature 

of psychological tendencies and their 

impact on human actions. 

Pain avoidance denial: The reluctance 

to accept negative realities can lead 

to customer dissatisfaction or staff 

resistance to new initiatives and changes 

within the business. 

As humans, we don't like bad news and 

will do whatever it takes to avoid receiving 

it. For customers, this can be as simple as 

avoiding purchasing frictions, such as not 

accepting specific payment methods or 

restricted trading hours. 

Excessive self-regard: Overestimating 

one's abilities can impact customer service 

interactions and hinder collaboration 

among staff. 

Studies have discovered that 80 per cent of 

drivers consider themselves above average. 

That is a statistical impossibility! When 

dealing with staff performance in particular, 

it's important to keep this fact in mind. 

Over-optimism: Ambition can drive 

consumer spending and entrepreneurial 

endeavours; however, unchecked optimism 

may lead to unrealistic expectations and 

subsequent disappointments. 

Be careful not to overestimate the impact of 

your work. I once had a client who expected 

one in three customers to visit their store 

after receiving a marketing mailout. 

Given a healthy result would be one in 20, 

this was overoptimism at its finest! 

Displeasure: People often react 

more strongly to potential losses than 

equivalent gains. 

This influences consumer risk aversion 

and employee response to incentives. Even 

though the outcomes are identical, we will 

do more to avoid losing $1,000 than we will 

to gain $1,000. 

Social proof: The belief that something 

is right because others confirm it guides 

consumer behaviour and organisational 

decision-making processes. 

This is why celebrity endorsement is so 

successful - despite the celebrity's typical 

lack of expertise or knowledge of the field 

in question. 

Contrast misreaction: The tendency to 

emphasise differences disproportionately 

can influence consumer perceptions of 

product value and employee performance 

evaluations. 

A $500 savings on a $1,000 item will always 

be viewed as a better outcome than a $500 

savings on a $10,000 item. 

Availability: Giving undue importance to 

recent or easily accessible information can 

lead to biased decision-making in customer 

service and staff management. 

If the past two days of trading have been 

quiet, you are more likely to believe you are 

in a sales slump for the month than if the 

last two have been strong - even if you had 

achieved the same level of sales to date 

over the month. 

Use it or lose it: Skills that aren't 

CHARLIE 

MUNGER: 

FAST FACTS 

Life 

Born in January 

1924, died in 

November 2023 

Employment 

Vice chairman 

of Berkshire 

Hathaway 

Wealth 

Net worth of 

$USD2.6 billion 

Crowning 

achievement 

Described as 

an architect of 

modern business 

philosophy 

utilised diminish over time, impacting 

employee performance and 

organisational adaptability. 

We tend to do better at what we do more 

often. Therefore, it's essential to ensure 

your staff stays familiar with all product 

lines across the business. 

Authority: The inclination to follow 

authority blindly can lead to conformity in 

consumer behaviour and hinder innovation 

in the workplace. 

Creating a workplace where staff are 

fearful of questioning the status quo can be 

detrimental to the business long term. 

Respect and reason: Providing clear 

reasons for actions fosters customer trust 

and employee engagement, enhancing 

overall satisfaction and productivity. 

Staff, and even customers, will be more 

accepting of circumstances if they 

understand their reasoning. 

How many of these twenty psychological 

tendencies are a factor in your business? 

What do you notice within your staff, 

customers, or even yourself? How can 

you utilise your knowledge of these 

traits to increase sales or smooth the 

processes of human interaction with your 

staff and customers? 

The best time to implement an action 

plan using these insights into human 

behaviour was yesterday. The second best 

time is today! 

DAVID BROWN is co-founder 

and business mentor with Retail 

Edge Consultants. Learn more: 

retailedgeconsultants.com 


BUSINESS 

Selling 

Understanding the importance 

of email marketing in sales generation 

Looking for a new strategy to improve sales at your jewellery store? 

ALEX FETANAT outlines the value of email marketing campaigns. 

Email marketing is crucial in generating 

sales for your jewellery store. 

of emails are now being opened on 

mobile devices. 

It allows you to reach out directly to 

your target audience and engage with 

them personally. 

By sending well-crafted emails, you 

can capture the attention of potential 

customers and entice them to make a 

purchase, visit your store, or schedule 

an appointment. 

Use a responsive design and test your 

emails on different devices. This is 

important for ensuring a seamless user 

experience. 

In addition, optimise your email copy and 

call-to-action (CTA) buttons. Make your 

copy concise, persuasive, and actionoriented. 

With the rise of social media and other 

digital marketing channels, some 

may argue that email marketing is no 

longer effective. 

However, studies have shown that 

email remains one of the most effective 

ways to generate sales. According to 

a report by DMA, for every $1 spent on 

email marketing, the average return on 

investment is $42. 

This highlights the immense potential of 

email marketing in driving revenue for your 

jewellery store. 

That leaves us with an important question. 

How do we craft compelling email 

campaigns for maximum impact? 

To maximise the impact of your email 

marketing campaigns, you must create 

compelling emails that grab your 

recipients' attention. 

In this regard, it’s important to start by 

understanding your target audience 

and their preferences. This will help you 

tailor your emails to their specific needs 

and interests. 

When crafting your emails, make sure you 

focus on creating engaging and persuasive 

content. Use attention-grabbing subject 

lines, compelling visuals, and concise yet 

informative copy. 

Incorporate storytelling techniques to 

connect with your audience emotionally 

and showcase the unique value proposition 

of your jewellery store. 

Furthermore, consider utilising various 

types of emails, such as promotional 

emails, newsletters, and personalised 

recommendations. 

By diversifying your email campaigns, 

you can cater to different segments of 

your audience and increase the chances 

of conversion. 

Personalisation & Segmentation 

Personalisation and segmentation are 

powerful strategies that can significantly 

improve the effectiveness of your email 

marketing efforts. 

By personalising your emails based on the 

recipient's preferences, past purchases, 

or browsing history, you can create a more 

personalised and tailored experience for 

each individual. 

Segmentation involves dividing your 

email list into specific groups based on 

demographics, interests, or behaviours. 

This allows you to send targeted 

emails to different segments, 

increasing the relevance and 

engagement of your messages. 

For example, you can send a special 

discount offer to customers who have 

previously purchased jewellery from your 

store, rewarding them for their loyalty to 

your business. 

By utilising personalisation and 

segmentation, you can deliver highly 

relevant and targeted emails that resonate 

with your audience, leading to higher open 

rates, click-through rates, and, ultimately, 

more sales and appointments. 

Optimisation 

Optimising your email content is essential 

for achieving higher conversion rates. 

Start by ensuring that your emails are 

mobile-friendly, as a significant portion 

“Incorporate 

storytelling 

techniques to 

connect with 

your audience 

emotionally 

and showcase 

the unique 

value 

proposition of 

your jewellery 

store.” 

Clearly state the benefits of your products 

or services and provide a clear next step 

for the recipient to take. Using eyecatching 

and strategically placed CTAs will 

encourage clicks and conversions among 

your customers. 

Furthermore, consider implementing 

A/B testing to experiment with different 

elements of your emails, such as subject 

lines, visuals, and CTAs. 

This will help you identify what resonates 

best with your audience and optimise your 

email content accordingly. 

Measuring success 

Measuring the success of your email 

marketing campaigns is crucial for 

continuous improvement and further 

optimisation. 

Monitor key metrics such as open rates, 

click-through rates, conversion rates, 

and revenue generated from email 

campaigns. This will provide insights into 

the effectiveness of your strategies and 

help you identify areas for improvement. 

Based on the data and analytics, 

adjust your email marketing strategies 

accordingly. 

Don’t be afraid to experiment with 

different approaches, such as changing 

the frequency of emails, modifying the 

content, or targeting different segments. 

Continuously monitor the results and 

make data-driven decisions to optimise 

your campaigns for maximum impact. 

Good luck! 

ALEX FETANAT is founder and CEO of 

the GemFind Network, a US-based digital 

marketing firm for the jewellery industry. 

Visit: gemfind.com 


BUSINESS 

Management 

Finding something difficult? 

Search for simplicity! 

If you’re facing a complicated obstacle, the best move is to break the solution down into simple steps. 

SHEP HYKEN explains the value of simplifying complex tasks. 

Earlier this year, I wrote an article 

about the hard work required to make 

something look effortless. 

I quoted several people from sports, 

entertainment, and business. The gist of 

the article was that we work hard to make 

doing business with us easy. Consider the 

quote I used from Steve Jobs of Apple, who 

said, “It takes a lot of hard work to make 

something look simple.” 

This made me think further about how 

cars are maintained. It’s not much 

different from how you would want to run 


Reliability: Assuming you have a good 

product, you want to create processes 

that are customer and employee friendly. 

The experience must, at minimum, meet 

your customers’ expectations. That builds 

confidence and customer satisfaction. 

Notice that Jobs’ quote uses the word 

simple. Sometimes, people confuse simple 

with easy, and it’s essential to recognise 

the difference between the two words. 

So, let’s take this concept to the 

next level. It’s not only about making 

something look easy. It’s about 

simplifying the complicated. 

When I’m asked to give a customer 

experience keynote speech, one of the 

points I like to make is the importance of 


All my books are easy to read. Some say 

the concepts are simple, but the reality 

is that they are often not. They are just 

presented in a way that simplifies the 

concepts for the reader. And we must do 

the same in business. 

Customers don’t want or like 

complication, confusion, or friction. They 

want a customer-friendly experience, but 

they also want the overall experience to 

be convenient. 

My annual customer service and 

experience research includes some 

very compelling findings that will make 

you want to simplify your customers’ 

experience. 

For example, 94 per cent of the more 

than 1,000 consumers we surveyed said 

convenience is important, 87 per cent of 

customers will recommend a convenient 

company or brand, and 70 per cent will pay 

more for convenience. 

As important as convenience is to the 

customer experience, there is more to ‘decomplicating’ 

the overall experience. 

For example, how clear are your marketing 

messages and product descriptions? I’ve 

been to websites where, after reading 

everything on the company’s home page, 

I still don’t know exactly what they do! 

They’ve complicated their message. 

The concept of simplicity is financially 

powerful. Siegel+Gale is a consulting firm 

that specialises in making brands simple. 

Research shows a financial benefit to 

creating simplicity. In 2009, if you invested 

in a group of companies recognised for 

simplicity, you would have dramatically 

outperformed the stock market by a 

whopping 1,600 per cent - proving that 

simplicity delivers in return on investment. 

It’s important to remember that simple 

does not always mean easy. You can have a 

very complicated and technical product. 

My sister used to work with companies to 

rewrite complicated software manuals so 

that the average person could understand 

them. That’s a perfect example of 


Consider the following analogy to simplify 

a complex subject. 

I was talking to a friend the other day, 

and he purchased an expensive new car. 

Unfortunately, the car was a ‘lemon’. 

The car has spent more time at the 

mechanics than in his garage. If it were 

me, I’d ask the dealer to replace it. He has 

more patience than I and gave the dealer 

another chance to fix the car. 

It made me think that what looks good on 

the outside may be better on the inside. 

Unfortunately, some businesses fall 

into the same category as my friend’s 

automobile. They look good on the outside, 

with fantastic marketing and advertising, 

a fancy website, and a beautiful building; 

however, when it comes to caring for the 

customer, they fail. 

It’s not only 

about making 

something look 

easy. It’s about 

simplifying the 

complicated. 

Routine maintenance: You want to keep 

your car properly maintained with routine 

maintenance. In the customer service 

world, we could consider this ongoing 

training that keeps your employees sharp 

with the latest tools and technology. 

Alignment: I wrote about focusing on 

employees first a few years ago. My 

weekly cartoon included the caption, “If 

an employee’s experience isn’t at least as 

good as the customer’s, the customer’s 

experience can be shaky, and the entire 

company can suffer.” 

In other words, there needs to be 

alignment between the customer 

experience and the employee experience. 

Feedback: When we take our car to a 

dealer, a mechanic hooks a computer up to 

perform a diagnostic check. 

In the business world, this is akin to your 

customers' feedback. You must have a 

system that collects feedback and allows 

you to repair and maintain the experience 

so it continues to meet, if not exceed your 

customer’s expectations. 

Update: New vehicles offer an updated 

look in addition to updates under the 

hood, which could include more efficient 

engines, the latest technology, and more. 

Product improvements, new technology, 

new processes, and more can give your 

customers a fresh experience. 

Like maintaining a car, fine-tuning your 

customer service and experience ensures 

your business runs smoothly. 

SHEP HYKEN is a speaker and New 

York Times and Wall Street Journal 

best-selling author who works with 

companies to build loyal relationships 

with customers and employees. 

Visit: hyken.com 


BUSINESS 

Marketing & PR 

Your business is ready for a marketing 

makeover: Part II 

The time has come to embrace a new strategy. 

GEORGANNE BENDER and RICH KIZER continue the series on marketing makeovers. 

In the second chapter of this series on 

marketing strategy reinvention, we begin 

with further ideas for your sales floor. 

Answer your telephone within three 

rings. Choose how you want your phone 

answered and share it with all associates. 

Complete a 360-degree pass-by every 

morning before you open for business. 

Start at the front door and walk every aisle 

in the store, finish with a look at the service 

counter, cutting tables, and restrooms. 

Take note of areas that need attention 

before the store opens for the day. 

Encourage all your employees to make the 

same observations. 

Utilise a daily store opening checklist 

that lists the tasks to be completed the 

next day. 

A simple answer might be, “Thank you 

for calling X! This is X. How may I help 

you today?” 

Don't hide behind voice mail, and don't 

make staff tell customers about a sale, 

hours, or whatever is happening in the 

store that day before asking how they can 

help - this drives customers crazy! 

Manage your customer response times. 

Best practices recommend returning 

phone calls, responding to email requests 

within 24 hours, and replying to text 

messages within an hour. 

Set a daily sales goal and post it at the 

sales counter. Your staff will perform 

better when they know what’s expected of 

them each day. 

Hold a 10-minute‘jog your memory’ 

meeting each morning or at the start of 

each shift. 

Discuss products, policies, promotions – 

anything store staff need to know that day. 

Take time to visit other retail stores for 

ideas — not just stores similar to yours but 

all types of stores. 

Visit popular chain and indie retail 

websites and social media. With your 

creative mind, we guarantee you will come 

up with dozens of ideas you can tweak to 

use in your own store. 

At the counter 

The policy should be framed and displayed 

prominently at the counter. Your return and 

exchange policy should be comparable to 

that of other retailers in your area that sell 

what you sell. 

Try to eliminate the word ‘no’ and write 

your policies in a friendly voice. For 

example, “No refunds or exchanges 

without a receipt” becomes customerfriendly 

when changed to “We gladly 

accept returns and exchanges within X 

days. Your receipt guarantees it.” 

Place a variety of impulse items at 

the counter. 

High-margin, inexpensive items work 

best; you should give them a selection 

they can’t resist. 

Sell gift cards year-round at the 

counter. A small display is all you need. 

Remember that most gift card shoppers 

spend more than the face value of the 

card and require more than one trip to 

your store to spend it. 

That’s good news for you! 

Use the wall directly behind your 

counter to display products. You never 

want customers to stop thinking about 

products, even when checking out. 

Instead of notes taped to the wall and 

piles of merchandise, use that space to 

display featured items, new arrivals, and 

impulse products. 

Keep a stash of frequently forgotten items 

at the counter. When a customer says, “I 

forgot to get X, I’ll get it next time, “ you 

can reach under the counter, grab that 

item, and save the sale. 

Store operations 

Your store should be open when 

customers expect you to be open. 

There is no perfect answer to when you 

should be open because the answer 

depends on the time of year, your 

competition and what shoppers expect. 

It’s important to note that many retail 

sales happen after 7:00 pm, which 

explains why shopping centres and chain 

stores stay open until 9:00 pm. 

You should be open some evening hours 

and on Sundays as well. 

Place various 

impulse items 

at the counter. 

High-margin, 

inexpensive 

items work 

best, and 

you should 

give them a 

selection they 

can’t resist. 

Don’t hide behind an automatic reply 

unless it’s necessary. Not being 

responsive gives a wrong impression of 


Control your backstock. Before you 

reorder, ensure there are no additional 

quantities of that product in your 

storeroom. 

If you need a physical reminder, place 

a green dot sticker on the shelf or bin 

ticket indicating that there is more of this 

merchandise in the stock room. 

When there is no more of the item in 

the stock room, replace the green dot 

with a red dot indicating that it needs to 

be reordered. 

Add a black dot if the item is not to be 

reordered, or mark it down and move it to 

the clearance aisle. 

Don’t wait too long to take a markdown. 

Merchandise that isn’t selling doesn’t do 

you any good collecting dust on a shelf. 

It needs to free up cash to buy fresh, 

saleable products. 

Add a ‘sell by’ date to price tags and bin 

tickets, and mark down items as soon as 

sales slow down. Packing away products 

for next year is rarely a good idea. 

In the next issue of Jeweller, the marketing 

overhaul continues with part three. 

RICH KIZER and GEORGANNE BENDER 

are retail strategists, authors and 

consultants. Visit: kizerandbender.com 


BUSINESS 

Logged On 

Take customer experience to 

a new level: Part I 

Artificial Intelligence is reshaping retail. JEANNIE WALTERS explains how your 

business can benefit from AI programs. 

Artificial Intelligence (AI) is so 

ingrained in our daily lives that it’s now 

unavoidable — and evolving rapidly. 

Most businesses see AI's potential 

to enhance efficiency and streamline 

operations. 

As business owners, it’s our responsibility 

to learn how we can apply AI to transform 

our customer experiences. 

It’s time to test the limits of these 

programs and see what they excel at and 

where they fall short. 

I understand that you might not feel ready. 

The secret is that very few business 

owners do. Take it one step at a time, and 

don’t be afraid to try new things. 

Regarding customer experience, 

companies focus on providing customers 

with round-the-clock support, swift 

problem resolution, and tailored 

recommendations. 

Business owners and managers need 

to understand and strongly advocate for 

the best ways to leverage AI in customer 

experiences. 

Intelligent experience machines 

Of course, many of us are still early in our 

AI adoption journey, and we have many 

other priorities. 

AI strategy lies in developing intelligent 

ways to collect, react to, and use the right 

data at the right time. 

To succeed with AI, we need to know just 

enough about what’s happening, how to 

get the best results, and how to protect 

our customer relationships. 

To help you start or fine-tune your 

strategy, let’s explore the crucial facts 

business owners need to understand 

about AI. 

What’s the difference? 

AI is the ability of machines to exhibit 

human-like intelligence. It involves a 

few areas, such as machine learning, 

neural networks, and natural language 

processing. 

Those enable programs to analyse data 

sets, recognise patterns, and deliver 

outputs we can understand. 

AI is nothing new. The concept has existed 

since the 1950s, including a program that 

could play checkers. Modern AI is faster 

and more capable than before and skilled 

at more than just checkers. 

Generative AI builds on traditional AI to 

deliver outputs in many forms, including 

text, audio, video, and image. 

Unlike traditional AI, which excels 

at pattern recognition, generative AI 

excels at generating outputs from 

its source material. Generative AI 

can create summaries, transcripts, 

analyses, and more. 

AI will replace some work, primarily in 

fields that involve repetitive data entry 

tasks or large volumes of data analysis. 

However, AI output will continue to 

demand human oversight. In creative 

fields, AI is far from being able to replace 

writers who write well. 

I’m confident that customer experience 

managers will always be vital for 

championing their uniquely human needs. 

AI helps us do things faster and more 

accurately. Think of AI as a powerful tool 

that frees up your time so you can focus on 

where it matters. 

Ideally, businesses can create new jobs 

or support different areas thanks to the 

savings delivered by AI. 

Organisations can also invest in reskilling 

and upskilling so the workforce can adapt 

to new opportunities and potentials. 

Understanding AI is not just about 

keeping pace with technology; it’s about 

leading the charge in innovation and 

personalisation and advocating for 

customers simultaneously. 

There are many reasons why creating an 

AI strategy is essential. 

AI is nothing 

new. The 

concept has 

existed since 

the 1950s, 

including a 

program that 

could play 

checkers. 

Some more sophisticated systems will 

use AI to orchestrate high-quality, endto-end 

customer experiences powered by 

rich customer data. 

Eventually, the correct data combined 

with the right intelligence will be the 

backbone for delivering personalisation 

at an unprecedented scale, transforming 

the customer journey. 

Balancing self-service 

In our quest for convenience, we must 

balance AI-driven self-service and the 

irreplaceable value of human interaction. 

AI personalises the customer experience 

by creating proactive offers and 

predicting service needs, seamlessly 

connecting consumers with what they 

need and want through their preferred 

channels. 

Yet, unifying data across channels and 

systems still presents challenges. 

AI technologies are not mere tools; they 

are the dynamic architects of customer 

journeys, reshaping how we understand 

and respond to our customers’ needs. 

In the next issue of Jeweller, this 

series explaining the advantages of AI 

programs for your business continues 

with part two. 

Time for a human touch 

Strategic investment 

JEANNIE WALTERS is founder and 

It’s understandable if you feel concerned 

about AI replacing human jobs. 

Unfortunately, this is somewhat likely. 

Your business might consider it a 

high priority to integrate AI into its 

strategy today. 

CEO of Experience Investigators. 

Learn more: experienceinvestigators.com 


My Bench 

Tammy Keers 

Artisans Bespoke Jewellers 

AGE 46 • YEARS IN TRADE Almost 30 • TRAINING Bachelor of Jewellery Design UNI SA and Trade Apprenticeship 

SIGNATURE PIECE 

AMELIA 

Winner of Jeweller of the Year category and Diamond 

Category at the 2023 JAA Australasian Jewellery Design 

Awards. Handmade in 18-carat white gold, an Art Deco 

Wing Insignia characterises a unique tribute to Aviation 

Pioneer – Amelia Earhart, the first woman to fly non-stop 

solo across the Atlantic Ocean. More than 350 hours of 

traditional goldsmithing expertise provided an assurance of 

fine quality and longevity. 

FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Alexandrite, Tsavorite 

Garnet, and Sapphire. 

FAVOURITE METAL 18-carat gold. 

FAVOURITE TOOL Saw Frame and Rolling Mill. 

BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Magnifying Loupe – 

because I can’t see anymore! 

BEST PART OF THE JOB Creativity – designing 

and making unique family heirloom pieces is super 

rewarding. 

WORST PART OF THE JOB I started my career on 

the bench and, after 30 years, have expanded my 

business to the point where, unfortunately, I don’t 

get to spend as much time hand-making, which I 

miss. 

BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER You can always 

learn something. You never know it all in this trade. 

BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER There is always more 

than one way to make something. Work to your 

strengths when putting something together. 

BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH 

Losing my vision as I get older – it’s frustrating! 

LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE It’s rewarding 

making beautiful pieces with unlimited opportunities 

and working with mother nature’s finest! 



OPINION 

Soapbox 

From pixels to products: 

Rediscover the people behind your business 

In business, it’s important to spend your time wisely. 

STEFANIE WERNEKINCK encourages you to escape the grind for a few days. 

In today’s increasingly digital day and 

age, it’s important to remember that 

we’re still human – we haven’t turned 

into robots yet! 

The Sydney Fair is just a few short weeks 

away, and it’s an opportunity to remember 

that behind every business are people 

who think, feel, see and touch. 

It’s only when we step away from behind 

our desks and escape ‘the grind’ for a 

few days for an event like the Sydney Fair 

that we get a chance to activate all those 

senses and grow professionally. 

It’s a space where you can make informed 

decisions about the direction of your 

business, and if you’re fortunate, reflect 

on the bigger picture. 

What are you trying to achieve with your 

business? Is it about paying the bills and 

making ends meet, or is it something 

more than that? 

Jewellery fairs offer networking that is 

incredibly valuable for the knowledge and 

insight that guides your business. 

It’s a chance to learn from people facing 

the same issues and challenges you 

are, and from their experiences, you can 

navigate your business to calmer waters. 

The COVID-19 pandemic dramatically 

altered how businesses function, 

with an increased focus on digital 

communication. 

Conversations and conferences once held 

face-to-face were relegated to phone 

calls and Zoom meetings. 

Many businesses have maintained these 

practices despite the conclusion of the 

pandemic, often justifiably so. 

However, jewellery fairs are a timely 

reminder that you can accomplish so 

much when standing directly opposite 

another person. 

I’m sure many people reading this are 

familiar with the frustrations of digital 

communications. What should be a 

simple back-and-forth email turns into 

a week-long slog because even the most 

articulate people sometimes struggle to 

get the right point across via text. 

It’s an opportunity to speak directly 

because your conversations are reinforced 

with body language. 

You can ask a question in an email 

and even over the phone, and there’s 

always the chance it comes across the 

wrong way. 

When you’re sitting directly across the 

table from someone, those issues are 

minimised because the intention is 

easily understood. 

In the same regard, jewellery fairs 

are excellent opportunities for 

problem-solving. Retailers and 

suppliers can ask questions and 

receive immediate answers. 

Those sorts of ‘troubleshooting’ 

exercises quickly build rapport and 

are fantastic stepping stones in 

building any successful long-term 

business relationship. 

In the same regard, industry events are 

an opportunity to gauge the sincerity 

of the people you may or may not be 

working with. 

Attending an event like the Sydney Fair 

is an investment from suppliers and 

retailers, demonstrating commitment 

by volunteering their time and money to 

be there. 

Said another way, the people you’re 

dealing with believe in their business 

and want it to have a presence in the 

broader industry. 

From a retail perspective, visitors 

are searching for a high level of 

professionalism and service from 

exhibiting suppliers. 

Standing face-to-face with a company's 

CEO or managing director is a great way 

to measure sincerity, and you’ll find these 

people operating stands, ready for a chat. 

Just as jewellery fairs offer you a chance 

to ask yourself big questions about the 

direction of your business, you can ask 

these questions of suppliers. 

Finding out why they’re in the industry and 

what they’re passionate about can build 

irreplaceable trust and rapport. 

What are 

you trying to 

achieve with 

your business? 

Is it about 

paying the bills 

and making 

ends meet, or 

is it something 

more than that? 

Time is such a valuable commodity 

for business owners, and when you’re 

dealing with people face-to-face on a 

trade show floor, you can achieve so 

much in just a few short days. 

For retailers, planning for the busy period 

at the end of the year can be completed 

in a few short hours, with hundreds of 

products at your fingertips ready for 

careful consideration. 

Seeing everything on offer and leaving 

with a strategy for the most critical time 

of the year is a weight off your shoulders. 

When it comes to the products 

themselves, you can obtain a level of 

confidence that can’t be achieved through 

a computer screen. 

You can hold that watch or jewellery 

in your hand and truly appreciate 

its craftsmanship. 

Examining the colours, intricate details, 

and overall design allows you to make a 

first-hand assessment of the quality and 

appeal of the product. 

It’s an experience that provides crucial 

insights into your business that are 

impossible to replicate through photos 

and descriptions alone. 

So, for a few short days, close the 

computer, put down your phone, and step 

away from behind your desk! 

The value of human interaction is often 

overlooked in today’s digital age; however, 

it’s essential for improving relationships 

and developing a deeper understanding 

of your business. 

Instant communication with a few quick 

taps of a keyboard or phone is a great 

tool; however, it’s also fraught with 

misunderstanding and ineffectiveness 

and can’t replace the clarity you 

experience when you speak face-to-face 

with another person. 

Name: Stef Wernekinck 

Business: German Cuckoo Clock Nest 

Position: Managing Director 

Location: Queensland 

Years in the industry: 25 


DISCOVER MORE AT THE INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR 

• 140 exhibitors • 38 of the World Famous Diamonds • Everything under one roof! 

International 

Jewellery Fair 

Where Brilliance Connects 

REGISTER NOW! 

ijf.jewelleryfair.com.au 

AUGUST 17 – 19, 2024 

ICC SYDNEY DARLING HARBOUR 

Proudly supported by 

FREE REGISTRATION 

Organised by 


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Jeweller - August 2024

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