British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter2024

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AUTUMN ON TRESCO 

Time to be tranquil. In mindful meanders amongst rust-toned bracken 

and deserted sandy shores. In thoughtful creativity inspired by the 

seasonal shift. In the seamless cycle of clouds, showers, sunshine, 

and the unique quality of light. In the year’s golden hour... 

TRESCO.CO.UK/AUTUMN 

Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.


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Welcome 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

— 

EDITORIAL 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

PROOFREADER Karyn Noble 

COPYWRITER Natalie Millar-Partridge 

DESIGN & DIGITAL 

HEAD OF DESIGN Daisy May 

HEAD OF DIGITAL Adrian Wilkinson 

ILLUSTRATOR Karen Katon-Oprey 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Amy Bonifas, Sophie Farrah, Emma 

Henderson, Gina Jackson, Jane Knight, Natalie 

Millar-Partridge, Adrian Mourby, Natalie Paris, 

Danielle Schofield, Jessica Way 

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The Newt, Somerset 

Discover more in our features this edition: Sink your 

teeth into Somerset, p82 and The Great Indoors, p38 

Published by 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

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Southampton, SO40 2RW 

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original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without 

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken 

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd 

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by 

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher. 

Autumn couldn’t be a more inviting time of year for 

travel, encouraging us to embrace a slower pace 

and lean into cosy elements of a luxury getaway – 

from new openings with cutting-edge design and 

properties drenched in history to some much-lauded foodie 

spots and one-of-a-kind experiences. 

Our features take us on an exciting geographical journey 

across the British Isles, exploring some of the most intriguing 

destinations, from Mayfair (p32) to Northumberland (p94) 

and Scotland’s Ardnamurchan Peninsula (p26) to the Dee 

Valley of Wales (p66). 

We take a deep dive into Britain’s charming wild isles, 

home to some of the most unique diving in the world (p60) 

and journey to Somerset (p82) to discover this renowned 

foodie destination – from artisan cheese and cider to 

exceptional seasonal produce, we delve into the region’s 

teeming larder. 

As the days shorten and the nights draw in, The Great 

Indoors (p38) shines a spotlight on those design-centric 

properties that leave us longing to stay inside. We also 

celebrate the beauty of Exeter (p70), a city designed for 

roaming with stunning Georgian architecture. 

Lastly, don’t miss our exclusive competition (p74) for the 

chance to win £250 of PoB Hotels gift vouchers. 

We hope this edition of British Travel Journal ignites your 

sense of adventure, inspiring you to discover the beauty of 

the British Isles, perhaps taking you somewhere entirely new. 

Safe travels, and don’t forget to put your clocks back! 

@BritishTravelJournal 

Jessica x 

JESSICA WAY 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

– 

@BritishTravelJournal 

@BTravelJournal 

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

Leighton House 

16 November 2024 - 27 April 2025 

Included in admission ticket 

rbkc.gov.uk/museums

CONTENTS 

AUTUMN/WINTER 2024 | ISSUE 19 

26 

38 

LEFT TO RIGHT THE GLASS BARN, ISLE OF MULL; HOLM, SOMERSET 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

From a new flint-cobbled hotel on the Norfolk 

coast and the latest Pig and Village Pub to London’s first 

Virgin Hotel, a tripod hideaway and the beautiful Trebah 

Lodge in Cornwall, we have you covered. 

22 

REACHING NEW HEIGHTS 

Aerial photographer and videographer Lee 

Rowland captures the depth and beauty of unique places 

through different perspectives – from sparkling city 

skylines to beautifully remote scenes, we delve into the 

narratives behind his shots. 

26 

FOOD FOR FORT 

British Travel Journal visit Scotland’s 

Ardnamurchan Peninusla – mainland Britain’s most 

westerly point – home of the once-fought-over, 13thcentury 

Mingary Castle, to to discover it’s no ordinary 

medieval pile. 

32 

MAYFAIR MAGIC 

One of London’s most impressive postcodes, 

Mayfair exudes glitz and glamour – from an artsy 

lunch to an afternoon tea, Michelin-starred dining, 

spa treatments and exquisite shopping, we share 

those experiences not to be missed. 

38 

THE GREAT INDOORS 

Who doesn’t love a design-centric hotel 

with stunning interiors? As the days shorten and 

the nights draw in, our handpicked selection of 

properties is guaranteed to leave you longing to stay 

cosy indoors. 

48 

MEET THE MAKER 

British Travel Journal meets founder of 

Bramley, Chloë Luxton, to talk about her love of 

nature, life in the Wiltshire countryside, sustainability 

practices and the secrets to her success. 



Scan here to enter · britishtraveljournal.com · 


£6.95 

ABOVE THE FARM AT AVEBURY, WILTSHIRE 

76 

52 

UNIQUE LUXURY STAYS 

Indulge in a luxury break this season; from a 

vineyard stay at Devon’s Lympstone Manor to a wellness 

escape in Cornwall, gourmet dining at the Grove of 

Narberth in Wales and a dog-friendly adventure in 

Scotland. 

60 

DIVE BENEATH BRITAIN’S WAVES 

Take a deep dive into Britain’s flourishing 

wild isles, where with nearly 20,000 miles of diverse 

coastline, the waters teem with wildlife, offering some of 

the most unique diving in the world. 

66 

SPOTLIGHT ON PALÉ HALL: 

REDISCOVERING OPULENCE 

British Travel Journal heads to the picturesque Dee Valley 

of Wales and steps back in time at the opulent Palé Hall 

– an immaculate restored estate with a breathtaking 

backdrop, designed for fairy-tale weekends. 

70 

ROMAN GETAWAY 

A city designed for roaming, British Travel 

Journal visits Exeter – a Roman city with Georgian 

architecture, drenched in history and surrounded with 

flourishing countryside, just a short drive from the coast. 

76 

ONE HUNDRED HARVESTS 

This autumn sees The Farm at Avebury 

celebrate its hundredth harvest. We take a trip to 

Wiltshire to learn about the farm’s diversification, with 

contemporary accommodation, creative workshops and 

seasonal produce. 

82 

SINK YOUR TEETH INTO 

SOMERSET 

A foodie’s haven, Somerset is brimming with artisan 

cheese, cider and seasonal produce. British Travel Journal 

takes a culinary tour of this abundant county, seeking 

out where to eat, drink and stay. 

94 

UNPLUGGING IN THE WILDS OF 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

Head to The Lord Crewe Arms in Northumberland to 

disconnect under the vast dark skies; the perfect spot to 

stargaze and explore the history and nature of one of 

the least-populated regions of the UK. 

98 

CLUES AND REVIEWS 

As the days shorten, make the most 

of cosy evenings indoors with our latest book 

recommendations, puzzles and crosswords. 

Subscribe to British Travel Journal with a gift · 

Captivating 

Win a £250 Gift Voucher 

British Travel Journal has teamed 

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the chance to win a £250 gift 

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of your choice. See page 74. 


JOURNAL 

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IMAGES © VISITSCOTLAND / KENNY LAM / DAVE WATTS 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

Find your special place 

From luxury contemporary barn conversions to charming 

thatched cottages, we’ve hand-picked the very best to bring 

you holiday memories to treasure. 

Olive Tree House, Sussex 

A portfolio of 

over 800 luxury 

self-catering 

holiday properties 

across the UK 

01386 897 959 

ruralretreats.co.uk

Made by nature, crafted by Bramley 

bramleyproducts.com

Autumn /Winter 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Whether you’re looking for a city or country escape or just want to know the 

latest spa experiences (moon bathing, anyone?) we know where to find them 

Text by Jane Knight 

HOTEL NEWS 

WELLNESS 

SELF-CATERING 

EXPERIENCES 

from page 10 from page 14 

from page 16 from page 20 

Pictured anticlockwise from top: The Roundhouse, Herefordshire; The Reeds at South Lodge, Sussex; Outdoor spa at the Barnsdale, Rutland; 

The Roundhouse, Herefordshire; Antony Gormley at Houghton Hall, Norfolk

Hotel News 

NORTH YORKSHIRE 

Saltmoore 

Named after its position between the sea and 

the moon, this brace of two hotels and spa is 

due to open near Whitby in October. Couples 

might opt for historic Saltmoore House; its 

43 rooms feature painted panelling, oceaninspired 

fabrics and perhaps a four-poster 

bed and a roll-top bath. More family friendly, 

the 29-room Beach House has a laid-back 

vibe; it also accepts dogs. As well as a spa 

with a cryotherapy chamber, Saltmoore will 

offer wellness activities, including yoga on 

the beach, surfing, sound-bath sessions and 

kitchen-garden workshops. ◆ 

Rooms from £300, with breakfast; 

saltmoore.co.uk 

LINCOLN 

White Hart Hotel 

If you’re planning an elegant city break in Lincoln, with its cathedral, 

castle and historic Bailgate, the White Hart Hotel is looking good 

following a 12-month refurbishment. It’s also just opened a fullyserviced 

Georgian townhouse at No 7 Castle Hill, with two king-size 

bedrooms, a kitchen and a private cinema room so you can enjoy your 

own space while also taking advantage of the hotel facilities. ◆ 

Doubles from £129, with breakfast; townhouse from £299, 

self-catering; whitehart-lincoln.co.uk 

LONDON 

IMAGE © ANDY STAGG-VIEW / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO 

10 BritishTravelJournal.com 

Virgin Hotel 

Almost a decade after Virgin opened its first hotel in Chicago, it now 

has a London property, in the heart of hip and happening Shoreditch. 

With plenty of exposed brick, steel-framed windows and neutral 

tones in the bedrooms, it’s more warehouse chic than Virgin bright 

and brash. There’s a basement tapas bar, a rooftop pool and a 

Mediterranean restaurant. ◆ 

Rooms from £240; virginhotels.com

ISLE OF WIGHT 

The Albion Hotel 

Making the most of the coast, this hotel on Freshwater Bay has 

Channel and beach views from 36 of its 40 rooms, and serves the 

freshest of seafood in its restaurant, which also looks out to sea. 

It has just reopened after a £6 million refurbishment. 

Rooms from £234, with breakfast; albionhotel.co.uk 

IMAGE © ROBERT LONGFORD 

NORFOLK 

The Maltings 

Foodies, families and four-legged friends should 

make a beeline to this flint-cobbled hotel, 

which opened its doors in Weybourne by the 

North Norfolk coast in August. Set in an old 

malt house, it has an impressive double-height 

restaurant with exposed brick and beams, where 

you can feast on lobster platters and Cromer 

crab gnocchi as well as delicacies from the 

land. The 28 stylish rooms are spread across 

the main house and the old stable blocks. Some 

will sleep a family, and dogs get their own bed 

and biscuits. The pebble beach is less than a 

10-minute walk away. ◆ 

Rooms from £200 per night, with breakfast; 

themaltingsweybourne.com 

Editor loves 

IMAGE © DAVID LOFTU 

THE COTSWOLDS 

The Pig and Village Pub 

The latest piggy joins the litter on 8 September in the 

former Barnsley House, following the opening of 

The Village Pub in June. Book the latter for a cosy retreat 

featuring pub grub (such as jugged beef and carrot, and 

pork pies) and the Pig proper for larger rooms, Rosemary 

Verey designed gardens, and a boutique spa. ◆ 

Rooms from £250 in the Pig and £215 in the pub, with 

breakfast; thepighotel.com, thevillagepub.co.uk 


SCOTLAND 

IMAGE © KRAYA STUDIO 

The Alyth Hotel 

Interior designer Hazel Lightbody and her hotelier husband 

Alasdair have worked their magic on this 14-room former 

coaching inn, which opened over the summer. The stylish 

rooms make a great base from which to go walking, cycling, 

fishing or whisky tasting. Both the cosy bar and lounge feature 

log burning stoves, perfect for those chilly Autumn nights. 

Doubles from £145, with breakfast; alythhotel.co.uk 

WEST SUSSEX 

The Reeds at South Lodge 

You can gaze out onto water lilies supplied 

by Monet’s garden in Giverny, France, when 

you stay at one of these super-sleek lakeside 

ecolodges. With plenty of wood and floorto-ceiling 

windows, the light-filled spaces are 

double height, with sundecks overlooking 

the water’s edge. Six are ideal for a family; 

while another two are for couples only, with 

a bed on the upper floor, an infrared sauna, 

a steam shower and an outdoor whirlpool 

bath. Guests can use the hotel’s spa as well 

as eat in its three restaurants. There’s guided 

wild swimming in the lake too. ◆ 

Lodges for six from £1,200; 

exclusive.co.uk 

NORTH YORKSHIRE 

Hotel Victoria 

The spectacular views over Robin Hood’s Bay are the same, 

but this hotel has a new look now it’s been taken over by The 

Loxley Collection, which also owns Cornwall’s Polurrian on the 

Lizard. Expect coastal-chic bedrooms, Mediterranean and British 

classics in the revamped Osborne’s restaurant and the perfect 

place to down a Yorkshire pint in the hotel’s Loxley pub. ◆ 

Rooms from £109, with breakfast; 

victoriarhb.com 


The Alyth Hotel is a stylish and cosy former coaching inn, situated at the heart of the market town of Alyth. It provides the perfect 

base from which to explore Perthshire, Tayside and the Highlands. Escape the everyday while being within easy reach of the best that 

Scotland has to offer. Come here to lose yourself, or find yourself, and discover this hidden gem in the heart of Scotland. 

www.alythhotel.co.uk 

Stay, Eat & Celebrate in the heart of historic Uphill Lincoln. 

whitehart-lincoln.co.uk

Wellness 

STAFFORDSHIRE 

Spa Terrace at 

Hoar Cross Hall 

The subterranean spa at this hotel has already 

carved out a name for itself and has now added 

an impressive £3 million Spa Terrace, with three 

outdoor hydrotherapy pools heated to a toasty 

38°C. Alternate a warm wallow with a bracing dip 

in the cold tubs, which come in the form of aged 

whisky barrels; there is also a sauna overlooking 

the pools and firepits where you can cosy up with 

a blanket on cooler nights. Head back inside for a 

treatment and to try everything from a starlit salt 

cave to a saltwater pool. ◆ 

From £279 per person for a night’s stay, three meals 

and a 60-minute spa treatment; baronseden.com 

NORFOLK 

Beer spa at The Norfolk Mead 

If you’re fond of a pint or six, consider pulling one from your private 

beer tap as you lie back in a wooden bath filled with vitamin-rich malt 

and hops, which are known for their antioxidant properties. Four 

people can share the beer spa, part of the Georgian hotel’s new spa 

offering, which includes steam, sauna and mud chambers. ◆ 

45 minutes in beer spa £68pp; norfolkmead.co.uk 

IMAGE © SIMON WATSON 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

Female-focused retreats at The Tempus 

The first of a series of quarterly rural recharge retreats for women 

is scheduled for 20–22 September at this quirky boutique hotel on 

a 700-acre estate. Activities include spinning, paddle boarding 

and meditation, with yoga and Pilates classes powered by yoga 

and activewear brand lululemon. Everyone will receive a lululemon 

T-shirt, with spot prizes and giveaways throughout the weekend. ◆ 

From £647pp for two nights, including food; thetempus.co.uk 


EAST SUSSEX 

Wine therapy at Relais Cooden Beach 

Wine spa treatments by Pelegrims, a local vineyard-to-skin spa 

brand, are on offer at this beachside hotel. The newly opened 

spa is a great place to visit after a walk on the beach and before 

tucking into the restaurant’s famous fish ‘n’ chips. 

Rooms from £170, with breakfast; therelaiscoodenbeach.com 

RUTLAND 

Outdoor spa at the 

Barnsdale 

Should we be lucky enough to have an Indian 

summer, the new outdoor Signet Spa at this 46- 

room hotel near Rutland Water will really come 

into its own. This isn’t the kind of place where you 

get lost amid windowless corridors: you can fully 

immerse yourself in nature in the heated outdoor 

pool and woodfire hot tubs. There’s a sauna pod 

and treatment rooms where you can indulge 

in massages or facials using Gaia products; a 

clubhouse is due to open soon. Stay the night in one 

of the contemporary rooms to get the best rates. ◆ 

Rooms from £208 with breakfast, spa access 

and one 60-minute treatment; 

barnsdalerutland.com 

THE LAKE DISTRICT 

Moon- and star-bathing at 

Armathwaite Hall 

For meditation that is truly out-of-this-world, try moon- and 

star-bathing – gazing at the naturally lit heavens while a 

guide leads you through the mind-cleansing process. Framed 

by the dramatic Skiddaw Mountain and Lake District Fells, 

Armathwaite has some of the darkest night skies in the UK. 

Take time to bath in the infinity-edge spa pool. ◆ 

A night’s stay including dinner and 90-minute moon- and 

star-bathing £250pp; armathwaite-hall.com 

IMAGE © ALAN GRAHAM 


Self-Catering 

MANCHESTER 

Station Agent’s House 

Just the ticket for train lovers, this Grade I listed 

house was the home of the station agent for 

what is now the world’s oldest railway station. 

Liverpool Road Station was built in 1830; it 

closed in 1975, after which the house was used 

as offices by the Science and Industry Museum. 

Now the Landmark Trust has restored it, with 

furnishings reminiscent of the 1930s, the golden 

age of steam. It’s certainly first-class, with the 

four bedrooms sharing four bathrooms and 

shower rooms, one of which is huge, with a 

standalone bath. ◆ 

Four nights for eight from £780; 

landmarktrust.org.uk 

WALES 

The Tri-Pod 

This stylish metal pod with a king-size bed on the mezzanine and its 

own hot tub makes a great hideaway near the Cardigan coastline. 

Rent it à deux or get friends to book the boathouse and the piglet pod, 

so up to six can stay together on the same farm. Alpacas roam freely 

around the properties. ◆ 

Three nights for two from £669; sykescottages.co.uk 

NORFOLK 

Goose Cottage 

Self-catering for wheelchair users doesn’t have to mean clinical. 

This smart cottage has a wet room with remote-control loo, lowered 

handbasin and a planetarium-themed ceiling. The kitchen has a 

lowered hob for wheelchair access and there are electric beds and 

riser recliner chairs. The owner can even help hire a hoist locally. ◆ 

Three nights for two from £551; crabpotcottages.co.uk 


NORTHERN IRELAND 

Barneys Ruins 

The perfect romantic escape, this contemporary ‘cottage’ on 

a converted farm has an upstairs bedroom with wood burner 

and twin bathtubs outside on the deck. It’s very minimalistic 

but if you want something a bit more rustic, there’s a 

converted barn on the farm too. 

A night for two from £90; kiphideaways.com 

HEREFORDSHIRE 

The Roundhouse 

The word ‘unusual’ doesn’t begin to describe 

this bolthole for two in Ross-on-Wye. The 

modern roundhouse with floor-to-ceiling 

curved windows holds a monsoon shower and 

sauna, and has seats so you can gaze out at 

the natural swimming pond with waterfall. 

You can bathe there or in the open-air copper 

bathtub. Beneath it all are the open-plan 

modern living quarters, with a contemporary 

four-poster, a grand piano and a separate 

kitchen. It’s a great base from which to explore 

the Wye Valley, with sweeping river views from 

the terrace of the tiered Japanese garden. ◆ 

Two nights for two from £395; 

the-nant.co.uk 

DEVON 

Triton at Bull Point Lighthouse 

Stay in one of a quartet of former lighthouse keepers’ 

cottages on a dramatic promontory with spectacular 

sea views. Among more than 100 cottages from new 

collection Devon Hideaways, Triton sleeps four in one 

double room and two singles; two of the bedrooms are 

sea facing. Woolacombe and Croyde beaches are nearby. 

Make sure you pack your binoculars. ◆ 

Three nights for four from £545; 

devonhideaways.co.uk 


CORNWALL 

Trebah Lodge 

Enjoy out-of-hours access to the 26 acres of subtropical 

gardens at Trebah, on the Helford River, when you stay at 

this newly renovated gatehouse lodge. It has two en-suite 

rooms and its own garden area, though you’re unlikely to 

need it in this ultimate getaway for gardeners. 

From £110 a night for four; cornishholidaycottages.com 

ISLE OF WIGHT 

Carnivale 

Don’t want to fly to Ibiza but still fancy a bit 

of festival spirit? Take the ferry to Yarmouth 

on the Isle of Wight instead, where the 

exterior of this white-brick property belies its 

psychedelic interiors rammed full of unusual 

artefacts. From the creators of the Bestival 

festival, it includes a crocheted peace sign 

salvaged from the main stage, a yoga studio 

with drum kit, the front part of a tuk-tuk and 

Rajasthani doorframes. Outside is just as 

special, with a skate ramp as well as a pool, 

a hot tub and a sauna. ◆ 

A week for 10 in five rooms from 

£8,495; uniquehomestays.com 

WEST SUSSEX 

The Farmhouse 

A countryside retreat with spectacular views, this 

single-storey flint building with stylish interiors and 

Crittall doors has half of its six bedrooms in the main 

house, the other half in the barn. The open-plan 

living room is cleverly divided into three areas: the 

main lounge, a study and a snug. Perfect for large 

family groups, there's even a croquet lawn and a 

Mediterranean-inspired central courtyard. ◆ 

From £965 a night for 12; luxuryboltholes.com 


Taking a fresh view on holiday homes, our hand-picked collection offers 

unique, design-led properties and a tailor-made service 

luxuryboltholes.com 

@luxuryboltholes 

+44 (0)1243 630100 

enquiries@luxuryboltholes.com 

LUXURY RETREATS IN THE UK’S DREAMIEST LOCATIONS 

From cosying up fireside in a country cottage, to stargazing from a 

dreamy hot tub at your clifftop hideaway, escape the everyday and 

seek the magic of a staycation with Boutique Retreats. With over 

280 luxury abodes to choose from, uncover our curated collection 

of luxury retreats, set in unique locations across the UK. 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 

+44 (0)1872 553 491 

enquiries@boutique-retreats.co.uk

Experiences 

EDINBURGH 

Lost Shore Surf Resort 

Surfing in Scotland? This is not on the coast but 

in what is being billed as Europe’s largest inland 

surfing facility, set to open in October, 

15 minutes from Edinburgh. Central to the 

60-acre country park is a 160m wave garden 

capable of generating 1,000 waves an hour. The 

idea is that it’s easier for novices and provides 

more consistent waves for experienced surfers. 

Lessons and sessions will be available, with 

wetsuit and board included. If you want to make 

more than a day of it, there are pods and lodges 

on-site sleeping between two and eight people. ◆ 

Prices and opening date yet to be set; 

lostshore.com 

NORFOLK 

IMAGE © PETE HUGGINS 

Antony Gormley at Houghton Hall 

Take in 100 life-size iron sculptures at Antony Gormley’s Time Horizon 

installation surrounding the former home of Sir Robert Walpole. The 

sculptures are dotted around the 300-acre estate, many of them partially 

buried in the ground. The exhibition is on until the end of October; book 

two nights at Congham Hall nearby in September for free entry. ◆ 

Exhibition £22; houghtonhall.com 

KENT 

Dover Castle Under Siege 

Explore both the medieval and Georgian tunnels that have just 

opened to visitors beneath this Norman castle as part of its latest 

attraction. The castle’s labyrinthine tunnels were used during the 

Barons’ War in the 13th century; they were expanded because of the 

threat of a Napoleonic invasion, and were later employed during the 

Second World War. ◆ 

Entry £20.90; englishheritage.org.uk 

IMAGE © JIM HOLDEN / ENGLISH HERITAGE 


LONDON 

Leighton and Landscape: Impressions from Nature 

Discover the en plein air paintings of leading Victorian artist 

Frederic, Lord Leighton, at his former studio-house in Holland 

Park from 16 November to 27 April 2025. This major Leighton 

House exhibition displays over 60 of Leighton’s remarkable 

creations, including Bay of Cádiz and A Street in Damascus, 

alongside several other paintings on loan from private collections, 

each returning ‘home’ for the first time in over 120 years. 

Admission ticket, from £14; rbkc.gov.uk/museums 

ISLE OF SKYE 

Pol Roger weekend at 

Kinloch Lodge 

Winston Churchill is said to have drunk 42,000 

bottles of Pol Roger during his lifetime. You won’t 

come close to that, but you will be able to drink 

plenty during this weekend to celebrate the 150th 

anniversary of his birth. Friday night dinner starts 

with Champagne and canapés. On Saturday, 

after a breakfast with Pol Roger Buck's Fizz, guests 

hike to the ruins of Dunscaith Castle for a picnic 

and Champagne cocktails. On your return, you 

can find out more about the Champagne from 

Pol Roger’s George Prideaux before a five-course 

tasting menu paired with fizz. ◆ 

From £750pp; kinloch-lodge.co.uk 

DORSET 

A Jurassic Coast Jolly 

Walking Tour 

Discover the 95-mile coastline from Studland Bay to Lyme 

Regis, featuring dramatic coastal features, fossils, and a 

history of smuggling in hidden coves. One of a collection of 

tailored walking and cycling tours by The Carter Company, 

the experience includes flexible walking distances, steam 

train rides, subtropical gardens, wild swimming and stays in 

charming inns and boutique hotels along the way. ◆ 

A week from £1,475 per person; the-carter-company.com 


REACHING 

new heights 

British Travel Journal takes to the sky with aerial 

photographer and videographer, Lee Rowland 

Text by Sophie Farrah 

CAPTURED MOMENTS 

Different perspectives are what keeps life 

interesting, and someone who appreciates 

this more than most is aerial photographer 

and videographer Lee Rowland, who 

specialises in capturing breathtaking views of Britain 

from above. 

Once a keen scuba diver, Lee’s previous passion 

was for photographing life deep under the sea, but a 

very different angle recently captured his imagination. 

Now a CAA (Civil Aviation Authority)-certified 

remote-drone pilot, Lee spends his time on dry land 

instead, shooting incredible images from high up in 

the air. 

“I’m definitely drawn to more unusual hobbies, 

but it’s photography that I am truly passionate about,” 

he explains. 

“I love the whole process – planning a shot, 

executing it and coming home and editing. I can 

spend three or four hours editing one image and I 

don’t actually do that much with it – I don’t add or take 

anything away. All I want to do is make the most of the 

details that I know were there and ensure that the image 

is exactly what I saw through my own eyes on the day. 

“I like to capture places that are unique, so I do 

a lot of location scouting. Once I’ve chosen what it is 

I want to shoot, it can sometimes keep me awake at 

night. I already know how I want it to look. Planning 

is important. It has to be sunrise or sunset, the light 

during the daytime is too harsh. Weather obviously 

plays a huge part too – generally I don’t like a plain 

blue sky. I like contrast,” he says. 

“We’re so spoiled in the UK – we have stunning 

countryside and dramatic cityscapes. It has so 

much to offer and so much diversity. I can’t think of 

anywhere else I’d rather be,” he says. 

“I spend a lot of time on Angelsey in Wales, but 

I’ve got so many places on my list – I want to get 

back to London, and I want to spend some time in 

the Scottish Highlands too. I love shooting beautiful 

things and the idea of someone visiting a place 

because they’ve seen a picture of mine.” 

From sparkling city skylines to beautifully remote 

scenes, there’s no doubt that Lee has a knack for 

capturing drama, depth and beauty. Here, he takes 

British Travel Journal through some of his favourite 

images and reveals the narrative behind them.

THE STORY 

BEHIND THE SHOTS 

1 

ST CWYFAN’S CHURCH, ANGLESEY 

Reached via the tube or National Rail from London, 

“Every time I look at this image it makes me smile. It has 

so much depth it seems to go on forever. I visited there 

three or four times, but it was always too busy – it’s not that 

people would have ruined the shot, I just wouldn’t want to 

affect the enjoyment of anyone’s day by buzzing around 

with a drone. I wanted a sunset image, so I kept visiting but it 

never looked right. One day there was a storm in the night, it 

cleared up at around 4.30am so I headed down there. The 

sky was perfect, the tide was in. It was one of those very rare 

occasions where everything worked out perfectly.”

2 

BEAUMARIS, WALES 

“I took this on a Bank Holiday weekend, and it was totally 

spontaneous. I didn’t have any plans to shoot – it was meant 

to be a weekend of relaxing with my family. My youngest 

son, Samuel, who’s 13, had started to take an interest in my work and 

coming out with me when I fly – his role is to keep an eye on the drone! 

I noticed that the sky was looking moody, so I suggested that we went 

out together, and this was the result. It was quiet, there was a beautiful 

sunset, and we sat there together and chatted. This image is a very 

happy memory for me.” 

3 

TOWER BRIDGE, LONDON 

“I am very proud to be British and nothing makes me prouder 

than London, I absolutely love it. Anyone that flies a drone 

wants this shot. A group of us spent the day in London shooting 

different places. I planned to get to Tower Bridge when it was dark, so I 

was careful to save enough battery. I had an idea of what I wanted in my 

head – Tower Bridge had to be lit up and I wanted to be able to see the 

Shard too. I waited for an hour for the light to be right, and it was worth 

it – I am made up with the result.” 

4 

THE SPINNAKER TOWER, PORTSMOUTH 

“I’d wanted to shoot The Spinnaker Tower for ages, and I 

wanted to shoot it at night. I was in Portsmouth for an event 

with a drone retailer, so that evening I ended up going to The 

Spinnaker with a few other drone photographers who wanted to learn 

more about shooting at night. There was around six of us in the end. I 

said to tthem, ‘Let me just get this shot I’ve got in my mind, otherwise I 

won’t be able to sleep at night!’, so I took it and landed, and then one 

by one I helped them with their settings, etc. It was nice being able to 

share that knowledge.” 

For more on Lee and his photography visit viewabovebritain.co.uk. 

You can also follow him on Instagram at @view_above_britain 


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FOOD for FORT 

Mainland Britain’s most westerly point is a place of rugged 

beauty, interesting wildlife, and a boutique restaurant with rooms 

in 13th-century Mingary Castle, once fought over by rival clans 

Text by Jane Knight 

pak choi, confit leek and fennel veloute. And yes, it tastes as 

good as it smells. 

Clearly, 13th-century Mingary Castle on Scotland’s 

Ardnamurchan Peninsula is no ordinary medieval pile. In fact, it 

is quite probably Britain’s smallest castle restaurant with rooms; 

it has just four suites within its 14-metre hexagonal walls. 

While it’s by no means easy to reach, my goodness it's 

worth making a culinary pilgrimage to this place where your 

meals come with a side serving of history. Getting there 

involves either a two-hour drive from Fort William, where the 

overnight Caledonian Sleeper rolls up, or a four-hour drive 

from Glasgow airport; the route taken by my friend Suzanne 

and me. 

They conquer you through your stomach at this 

castle. All afternoon, nose-twitching odours have 

been wafting up the stairs, drifting deliciously 

round my bedroom, at the very top of the building, 

encased within the thickest of walls. By dinner time, I can’t 

wait to see what smells so good. 

Chef patron Colin Nicholson’s eight-course tasting menu, 

served in the light oak dining room, doesn’t disappoint. From 

the very first bite of his sourdough, I know it’s going to be 

special. 

The procession of courses that makes its way to our table 

includes hand-dived scallop, Valrhona chocolate cremeux 

with blackberry compote, and that dish with the amazing 

aroma I’d been anticipating for hours – spiced monkfish tail, 


‘ 

Clearly, 13th-century Mingary Castle on Scotland’s Ardnamurchan 

Peninsula is no ordinary medieval pile. In fact, it is quite probably 

Britain’s smallest castle restaurant with rooms. 

’ 

Though we left our Essex homes at the crack of dawn, 

by the time we arrive at Mingary through sheep-filled fields 

on the 30,000 acre Ardnamurchan estate, the weather is 

coming down over the hills; winter, too, is preparing to lay 

down its dark early-evening cloak. 

It’s not an easy drive, but it’s a splendidly scenic one, and 

sees us skirting the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, taking 

the Corran ferry across Loch Linnhe, and following the most 

sinuous of singletrack roads along Loch Sunart, where the 

conifer-rich countryside appears to be a doppelganger for 

some of Canada’s vast, wild terrain. 


Before it does, there’s just time to take in the view from 

the private ramparts belonging to our two-roomed suite. 

Grey fingers of rock reach out into the Sound of Mull, across 

which the ferry chugs to Tobermory on Mull itself. Horned 

cattle graze in fields by the water, which laps hungrily at the 

castle’s base. 

It's not until the next morning when we can see the 

castle from the shore at low tide that we fully understand its 

strategic vantage point. Rising almost seamlessly from the 

sill of volcanic rock beneath, and almost blending in with the 

drably beautiful colours of the hill rising behind it, Mingary 

has a clear command of the coast. 

It might look camouflaged now, but its light pink colour 

in the past was intended to be a beacon to those plying the 

waters in their boats, demonstrating the importance of its 

lords as well as their dominance over the northern part of the 

Sound of Mull and the entrance to Loch Sunart. 

This little corner of Scotland looks like the picture of 

serenity today, but in the past, the former Viking stronghold 

was the centre of bitter and bloody clan rivalry, with the 

castle besieged time and again as it passed through a 

confusing array of MacDougalls, MacDonalds, Maclains and 

Macleans. At one point, sailors from a Spanish armada ship 

anchored off Tobermory took part in one of the sieges. 


‘ 

It's not until the next morning when we can see the castle from the shore at low tide 

that we fully understand its strategic vantage point. Rising almost seamlessly from 

the sill of volcanic rock beneath... Mingary has a clear command of the coast. 

’ 

A more peaceful recent past was followed by abandonment 

in the mid 19th-century before estate owner Donald Houston 

formed the Mingary Castle Preservation and Restoration 

Trust in 2013 to restore the crumbling stone, rebuild collapsed 

roofs and unearth floors buried beneath the undergrowth. 

The hotel opened three years later. 

It’s a harmonious blend of medieval and modernity, with 

ramparts to walk along and details such as a sword hanging 

on the wall of the downstairs loo, alongside an inviting 

panelled sitting room with velvet sofas and an open fire and 

beautifully restored bedrooms. 

Named after those warring Scottish clans, the bedrooms 

come with four-posters antique furniture and intricate crewel 

embroidery fabric, which also covers the walls of two suites. 

One room features a bathroom in a secret chapel that was 

lost in the castle walls for centuries, while another is a selfcontained 

apartment in a courtyard building, with its own 

wood burner and a beautiful antique bed on the first floor. 

So far, so restored castle. But Mingary’s real strength 

came when business partners Colin Nicholson and Jessica 

Thompson took over the lease. Formerly working as chef and 

restaurant manager (respectively) at Inverlochy Castle, they 

moved with their two dogs, Hamish and Hector, and opened 

Mingary as a restaurant with rooms in mid 2021. 

“It was daunting, particularly given the timing with 

COVID, but we couldn’t say no to the opportunity,” says 

Jessica, who excels at making guests feel like they are 

indeed king of this castle. 

“Every chef wants to run their own restaurant… but they 

don’t expect it to be in a castle,” adds Colin. 

Thankfully, he has a modern kitchen to conjure up meals, 

with as much as possible made in-house, from the flavoured 


‘ 

Onward to Sanna Bay beach we go, driving across a circular plain that 

turns out to be an extinct volcanic crater surrounded by craggy peaks. 

’ 

We pass the market garden on our way to Ardnamurchan 

Lighthouse, a 20-minute drive away. Built in 1849 to a design 

by Robert Louis Stevenson’s uncle, Alan Stevenson, it towers 

over the rocks, the waves whacking the shore far below. It 

marks mainland Britain’s most westerly point on this rugged 

butters to the petits fours, by way of jams, chutneys and even 

sausages. Fish is delivered twice a week from Fort William, 

trout from Tobermory, and langoustine and lobster from the 

waters just in front of the castle. About three quarters of the 

vegetables, herbs and edible flowers that decorate the plates 

come from the nearby community garden. 


peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic; it’s even further west 

than Land’s End. 

The lighthouse isn’t open in winter, but it doesn’t matter 

– the drive alone makes it worth the trip, along a singletrack 

road snaking through this bleakly beautiful countryside that 

is browned by bracken. We are lucky enough to spot several 

herds of deer by the roadside. 

Onward to Sanna Bay beach we go, driving across a 

circular plain that turns out to be an extinct volcanic crater 

surrounded by craggy peaks. From the beach car park, a 

solitary dog-walker directs us over the dunes to what must 

surely be Scotland’s most scenic stretch of sand. It runs into 

little bays between the rocky outcrops, the water a distinct 

Caribbean tinge, despite the chill wind. 

Along the coast to the pretty village of Portuairk we 

walk, where we fall greedily on Colin’s tasty picnic with its 

sourdough sarnies of smoked fish or venison salami as we 

look out to sea from a perfectly positioned bench. 

Here, we warm up over a delicious hot chocolate in the 

Tobermory Chocolate shop (Edie McCredie’s garage in the 

kids' programme Balamory) before perusing the craft shops 

on the main drag. Here, too, is The Island Bakery – its divine 

biscuits are also on offer as in-room treats at the castle – 

and Tobermory Distillery. A short drive away is Isle of Mull 

Cheese, with its coffee shop, indoor vine and an enormous 

wall of a window looking out to sea. 

It’s not long before we’re out on that water again 

ourselves, returning to the castle for another fantastic meal, 

this time a shorter five-course affair. The wind is whipping up 

a storm outside but it’s cosy within the thick castle walls; the 

bedrooms so warm from the biomass heater that I fling the 

windows open. 

Tomorrow, the impossibly curvy singletrack road awaits 

as we return to Glasgow. But tonight I can snuggle down in 

my castle four-poster, replete from a meal fit for a king – food 

for fort indeed. 

Rooms at Mingary Castle cost from £300, B&B; 

mingarycastle.co.uk 

IMAGES © VISITSCOTLAND / KENNY LAM / PR IMAGING / PAUL TOMKINS 

Summer would bring a different vibe to these sands, 

along with activities on the peninsula ranging from kayaking 

to wildlife spotting; boat trips head out to the Treshnish Isles 

to see its puffins, with the possibility of spotting whales, 

dolphins, basking sharks and sea eagles. A day at sea 

culminates with a visit to the famous Fingal’s Cave on the 

island of Staffa. 

In winter, though, there’s still an interesting boat trip to 

take: from the little village of Kilchoan’s harbour, we board 

the ferry to Tobermory, at the northern end of Mull. The 

sea air is chilling despite the sunshine, but we can’t resist 

standing on deck for the superb castle views before switching 

sides to look instead at the row of colourfully painted houses 

by Tobermory’s harbour, which doubled as Balamory in the 

children’s TV programme. 


MAYFAIR 

magic 

Mayfair is easily one of London’s most exciting postcodes. We hope you enjoy 

our pick of some of the best places to eat, drink, sleep, and spa in this coveted 

corner of the capital, curated by a born and raised Londoner 

Text by Gina Jackson 

and wiggly red chairs. Guests feast on modern British fare 

while cocooned among artworks from a slew of famed artists, 

from Lucian Freud to Henri Matisse. Informed by produce 

sourced around the UK, the restaurant’s most popular dishes 

include its famous lobster Wellington for two, and creamy figleaf 

soft serve, all eaten while enjoying sweeping views over 

Mount Street below. 

Home to a smattering of lauded landmarks, and 

coined as a playground for the rich and famous, 

Mayfair has plenty to keep you occupied between 

the glitzy boutiques and swanky restaurants lining 

its streets. We’ve shared the must-do experiences and places 

to visit in the capital’s most exclusive postcode, from bedding 

down at five-star pads to wining and dining at the city’s most 

exquisite restaurants. 

Lunch among artworks at Mount Street Restaurant 

From the same minds behind The Fife Arms, this art lover’s 

hideaway is a veritable feast for the eyes as much as it is for 

the belly. Tucked above sister property Audley Public House, 

it has a dazzling mix of terrazzo surfaces, leather tabletops 


Drinks at The Red Room or The Connaught Bar 

For an evening cocktail, head over to Mayfair mainstay 

The Connaught, which has a number of sleek bars to hide 

away in. Make a beeline for The Red Room, concealed 

behind a draped curtain, where you’ll stumble across an 

impossibly chic space awash in tones of blush pink and 

cream, punctuated by pops of red. Red-themed artworks 

by a number of visionaries fill the space, along with a 

pleasing melange of pink onyx, Murano glassware, and 

Italian marble, all made to welcome guests into a space 

reminiscent of a collector’s living room. Meanwhile, 

martini loyalists should head over to award-winning The 

Connaught Bar (named the 5th best bar in the world by 

The World’s 50 Best Bars 2023), where you’ll find the most 

legendary martini in town – poured from the bar’s renowned 

martini trolley, and always stirred, never shaken. 

Stay at Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane 

Wedged between Green Park and Hyde Park and within 

a stone’s throw from some of London’s most recognisable 

landmarks, this luxury pad is the ultimate spot to bed down 

after a day spent exploring the neighbourhood. 

Sweeping suites are decked out with cream furnishings, 

glossy lacquer surfaces, and marble-clad bathrooms – many 

come with their own private terraces, offering prime views 

over the rooftops below. It might be tempting to hole up in 

your suite all day, but it’s worth venturing downstairs to dine 

on modern French fare at one-Michelin-starred Pavyllon, 

helmed by chef Yannick Alléno, or heading to the hotel’s 

serene spa for restorative treatments. 


Afternoon Tea at Sketch 

Afternoon tea is a British staple, and if you know your Matisse 

from your Picasso, or generally have a keen eye for art, look 

no further than Sketch. This wildly creative, three-storey 

townhouse with four restaurants, one with three Michelin 

stars, is akin to an Alice in Wonderland of culinary adventure. 

The Gallery Room, where afternoon tea is hosted, is adorned 

with a millennial-pink backdrop created by designer India 

Mahdavi. It has hosted work by a range of artists, including 

Tracey Emin and David Shrigley, and is the perfect place to 

sink into the comfort of the sumptuous scallop-shaped seats, 

while snapping photos for your Instagram. A French spin 

on the British tradition, its afternoon-tea offerings, which 

could include bergamot macarons or truffle brioche bun 

sandwiches, will entice your taste buds. 

Sample street food at Mercato Mayfair 

It can be somewhat of a mission to find a tasty, cheap eat in 

the heart of Mayfair, but Mercato Mayfair is the ultimate pit 

stop for street food at a reasonable price. Housed in a former 

church on North Audley Street, it's where you can sample a 

mouthwatering variety of dishes – from spicy Taiwanese bao 

to freshly churned gelato – all just a stone’s throw from Oxford 

Street and Marble Arch. 

Spa treatments at the Aman Spa 

Looking to pamper yourself? The Connaught’s Aman Spa 

is the ultimate retreat, offering a series of holistic, resultsdriven 

treatments for face and body. Choose from full-body 

massages to alleviate stress, to facials that expertly blend 

Japanese ingredients and cutting-edge technology to provide 

hydration or tackle signs of aging. Spa guests will also have 

access to a tranquil swimming pool with a gently cascading 

waterfall, and can expect to leave feeling utterly restored 

from top to toe. 

Sunday roast at The Twenty Two 

This private members’ club and hotel welcomes all guests 

into its namesake restaurant: an elegant, blue-panelled 

dining room on the border of Grosvenor Square. While a 

delicious everyday menu is served from breakfast through to 

dinner, it’s the weekly Sunday roast that has quickly amassed 

cult status among those in the know. Choose your meat, and 

watch while the table is laden with all of the trimmings you 

could possibly imagine, all served in chic pewter dishes. Wash 

it down with a zingy Bloody Mary. 


Michelin-Starred Dining in Mayfair 

For the ultimate indulgence, Mayfair has plenty of Michelinstarred 

dining to choose from. In addition to the restaurants 

already featured in this article, there's Gymkhana serving 

elevated Indian fare; or ascend the sweeping staircase at 

HIDE to sample Ollie Dabbous’ theatrical British-European 

dishes, from candy stripe beetroot to Zerbinati melon. 

Gourmets can also go all out at three-Michelin starred 

Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, where the exquisite 

tasting menu changes with the seasons. Or head to the 

renowned one-Michelin star restaurant; Murano, where 

Angela Hartnett leads the way in serving humble yet exquisite 

Italian cuisine, drawing inspiration from three generations of 

authentic Italian family cooking. 

Discover exhibitions and refuel at Claridge's ArtSpace 

ArtSpace museum and cafe is hidden underneath Claridge's 

Hotel, with its own dedicated entrance on the newly restored 

‘ 

For the ultimate indulgence... ascend the sweeping staircase at HIDE 

to sample Ollie Dabbous’ theatrical British-European dishes, from candy 

stripe beetroot to Zerbinati melon. 

’ 


‘ 

If you are marking a special occasion, consider reserving the exclusive Renoir 

Room... a dining ambiance that seamlessly marries opulence with art. ’ 

Claridge’s facade on Brook’s Mews, bedecked with awning and 

flag. Previous exhibitions have included Les Lalanne, Damien 

Hirst, and more. Pop in for a coffee and an exquisite slice 

of cake at the gallery-like patisserie counter and visit before 

24 October 2024 to see Drip Drip Point Warp Spin Buckle 

Rot exhibition by Daria Blum, the winner of the inaugural 

Claridge’s Royal Academy Schools Art Prize. 

Enjoy exquisite dining at the world-renowned seafood 

restaurant Scott’s Mayfair 

If you are marking a special occasion, consider reserving the 

exclusive Renoir Room, an intimate space designed for up to 

eight guests, at Scott's Mayfair. Encased in verre églomisé and 

featuring a radiant green agate floor, the walls of this remarkable 

private dining area showcase masterpieces by celebrated 

artists such as Renoir, Miró, and Chagall. Immerse yourself in a 

dining ambiance that seamlessly marries opulence with art. 

Visit the prestigious shopping institutions 

If you're a fan of high-end shopping, Mayfair offers an array 

of luxury shopping destinations. Savile Row, renowned for its 

bespoke tailoring, is the perfect place to find a custom-made 

suit or tailored shirts. Head to Burlington Arcade, with 

its elegant glass roof and exclusive boutiques, for unique 

jewellery, accessories, and exquisite gifts. Don't miss The 

Royal Arcade, exuding old-world charm and home to a 

variety of luxury brands and independent shops. Plus, there's 

the renowned Fortnum & Mason store, which, along with 

Harrods, Liberty of London, and Selfridges, is a celebrated 

London institution – one that has been part of the Mayfair 

community for over 300 years. 

IMAGES © JEREMY FLINT / HELEN CATHCART / HASSELBLAD H3D / DAMIAN RUSSEL 

/ JUSTINE TRICKETT / CHRISTOPHER LAWRENCE 


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THE 

GREAT 

indoors 

Discover rich history at 

BOYS HALL, KENT 

This lovingly restored 17th-century Jacobean manor 

sits right on the edge of 'The Garden of England' 

in Ashford, Kent. Originally built in 1616 and Grade 

II listed, Boys Hall has been painstakingly restored 

by husband-and-wife team, Bradley and Kristie, 

with the help of family, friends and a variety of 

local specialists. The house now has nine unique 

en-suite bedrooms decorated in a sophisticated 

combination of Farrow & Ball hues, bold fabrics 

and an array of vintage furniture and eclectic finds. 

There are stunning original features throughout, 

such as in the Bishop's Quarter Suite, which is 

home to ornate 16th-century panelling from 

Windsor Castle – a gift from King Charles I, who 

is reputed to have stayed in the house during his 

flight from parliamentarian forces. The spacious 

bathroom is also fit for royalty, with checkerboard 

marble flooring and an opulent gold roll-top 

tub. Downstairs, guests can unwind in two snug 

reception rooms, enjoy a drink in the cosy woodclad 

pub, and have dinner next to a lovely open 

fireplace in the new beamed dining room. 

From £160 per night, including breakfast (Bishop’s 

Quarter from £350); boys-hall.com 

Craving a cosy break? As the 

temperature drops and we move 

indoors, British Travel Journal 

handpicks a selection of 

design-centric hotels with 

stunning interiors guaranteed 

to make you swoon 



Serenity in the city at 

NO 1 YORK, BY GUESTHOUSE, 

YORK 

The historic city of York is a great choice for a cosy 

city break, and interiors lovers should make No 1 

York their base. Hip hotel group GuestHouse has 

breathed new life into this handsome, historic 

building just moments from the Minster. Huge, 

dreamy sash windows, high ceilings, and a 

sweeping central staircase envelop guests with awe 

at their instant glamour. British designer Martin 

Hulbert has taken inspiration from the city via 

locally sourced antiques and art mixed with curios 

that pay tribute to York’s stories and literary gems. 

The 39 bedrooms are light and airy, with fireplaces 

in many and a hint of grandeur to them all. There 

are four-poster beds, luxurious draped curtains, 

dollhouses that double as coffee cabinets, and 

small white roses carved delicately into the walls – 

an artistic nod to the symbol of the city. 

From £164 per night, room only; 

guesthousehotels.co.uk/no-1-york 


IMAGES © DAVID CHESKIN / JAKE EASTHAM 

Gothic glamour at 

THE WITCHERY BY THE CASTLE, 

EDINBURGH 

Steeped in centuries of Scottish history, this awardwinning 

Edinburgh hotel is in now its fifth decade. 

Located just a few steps from the city’s famous 

Castle on the renowned Royal Mile, this one-ofa-kind 

collection of historic buildings ooze Gothic 

glamour and have an enchanting touch of Hogwarts 

about them. Designed and curated by owner James 

Thomson, the hotel's rich baroque surroundings 

feature original oak-panelling, sumptuous tapestries, 

opulent red leather upholstery, antique church 

candlesticks, hand-painted ceilings, and more. The 

theatrical theme continue in the nine wow- factor 

suites, which are lavishly decorated and irresistibly 

romantic. 

From £475 per night, including breakfast; 

thewitchery.com 

Laid-back luxury at 

THE PIG AT HARLYN BAY, 

CORNWALL 

With a luxurious litter that stretches across several 

counties, THE PIG hotels are well known for their 

sense of luxurious yet laid-back style, and it is 

co-founder Judy Hutson who is responsible for 

the eclectic yet deeply comfortable interiors. Not 

far from Padstow, THE PIG at Harlyn Bay – an 

atmospheric 15th-century country manor – is a 

prime example of Hutson’s skilled eye and attention 

to detail; rustic wooden furniture meets chic 

patterned fabrics intermingled with a moody colour 

palette, antique maps and maritime paintings, and 

handpicked one-off pieces. It’s deeply atmospheric 

and cosy. The 30 luxurious bedrooms, including 

four garden wagons, feel similarly sumptuous and 

full of cosy character. 


thepighotel.com/at-harlyn-bay 


Comfort in colour at 

THE ROSE, KENT 

In the charming seaside town of Deal in Kent, The 

Rose is a relaxed and friendly bar and restaurant 

with some lovely rooms upstairs. The interiors are a 

collaboration between interior-design pros Nicola 

Harding and Michelle Kelly, who have created a 

deeply stylish medley of bold colour, pattern and 

comfort. From top to bottom, The Rose has a 

romantic, boudoir style that is simultaneously chic, 

with fabrics such as velvet and corduroy pleasingly 

mixed with vibrant Liberty prints and eye-catching 

artwork. The eight unique bedrooms combine 

bold tones, luxurious beds and a mix of vintage 

furnishings, while pretty bathrooms feature vintage 

tubs. Stay at The Rose and you can't help but smile. 

From £125 per night, including breakfast, and 

afternoon tea, and cake; therosedeal.com 

Artistic flair at 

THE GUNTON ARMS, NORFOLK 

From the outside, this traditional flint-walled pub 

looks much as you’d expect; but inside, a world of 

modern art and extraordinary design awaits. This 

one-of-a-kind hideaway sits on a tranquil historic 

estate near Cromer in North Norfolk. Owned by 

art dealer Ivor Braka, it contains a staggering 

array of artwork by the likes Damien Hirst, Lucian 

Freud, Paula Rego, and many more. A captivating 

mix of old and new, the pub’s interiors and 16 

bedrooms were designed by celebrated interior 

designer and antique dealer Robert Kime. The 

antique marble in the bathrooms was found in 

Egypt by Kime himself, while cosy guest lounges 

are filled with paintings, antiques, and shabbychic 

leather sofas. In the restaurant, the pub’s own 

venison is cooked on a large indoor fire beneath 

10,000-year-old Irish elk antlers and an eyecatching 

neon by artist Tracey Emin. 


theguntonarms.co.uk 


Botanical beauty at 

THYME, COTSWOLDS 

Tasteful from top to toe, the interiors of the Thyme 

estate have been conceived by its founder, and 

creative director, Caryn Hibbert. Her inspiration 

stems from a deep-rooted love of nature and the 

desire to bring the beauty of the outside in. From 

the botanical names of the bedrooms to the use of 

green as a neutral foundation, the deeply serene 

interiors combine colour, texture and pattern in 

a most pleasing and elegant way. Caryn’s own 

watercolour botanical paintings feature throughout 

in the form of wallpaper, fabrics, and more, and 

among the elegance there is playfulness too. In the 

beautiful Baa Bar, some of the seating is inspired 

by the Welsh Mountain sheep that graze the estate 

pastures; grab a delicious garden-inspired cocktail 

and take a pew on one of the brilliant, one-of-akind 

woolly sheep seats. 


thyme.co.uk 


Regency splendour at 

HENRY’S TOWNHOUSE, LONDON 

Crossing the threshold of Henry’s Townhouse feels 

like stepping into an episode of Bridgerton. With 

hidden nooks and cosy crannies at every turn, the 

stunning interiors (designed by owners Steven 

and Jane Collins, alongside Russell Sage Studio) 

are inspired by Jane Austen’s brother, Henry, who 

lived in this handsome four-storey townhouse at 

the height of the Regency era. Upstairs, there are 

six extraordinary bedrooms that blend Georgian 

glamour with handpicked fabrics, curated artwork 

and period antiques. On the ground floor, guests 

can take afternoon tea or enjoy a glass of wine in 

Henry’s Drawing Room, while Jane’s Reading Room 

combines more formal seating finished in beautiful 

velvets and subtle prints, antiques, and a grand 

crystal chandelier that twinkles overhead. 


henrystownhouse.co.uk 


IMAGES © RAY MAIN / PAUL MASSEY 

Country house chic at 

HECKFIELD PLACE, HAMPSHIRE 

Heckfield Place is an imposing Grade II-listed 

manor in rural Hampshire that has been 

painstakingly restored and transformed into one 

of the most elegant country house hotels in the 

UK. A haven of serene modern design, each of the 

deeply luxurious 45 bedrooms are characterised by 

smooth natural materials, meticulous artisanship 

and a soothing colour palette. Enjoy a piece of 

cake in the bright and elegant drawing room, 

surrounded by contemporary art, comfortable 

furniture and fresh flowers from the garden, or sip 

a celestial-inspired cocktail in the dark, cocoonlike 

Moon Bar. The recently unveiled spa features 

further impressive interiors, with serene, minimalist 

design and plenty of clean lines. 


heckfieldplace.com 

English elegance at 

HOTEL ENDSLEIGH, DEVON 

Nested deep within the Tamar Valley, on the 

border between Devon and Cornwall, Hotel 

Endsleigh is owned and designed by hotelier and 

interior designer extraordinaire Olga Polizzi. 

She's celebrated for creating stylish and thougtful 

interiors that perfectly suit their location, and 

Endsleigh’s classically elegant English style is 

a perfect example of this. The ornate, historic 

features of this characterful building blend 

seamlessly with Polizzi’s choice of bold patterns, 

contemporary art and clever mix of old and new 

furniture. Each of the 21 deeply peaceful bedrooms 

have been individually designed and feature the 

likes of hand-painted wallpapers, book-lined 

shelves and roll-top bathtubs. Two new suites have 

been recently unveiled, one of which Polizzi is so 

proud of that it has been named ‘The Lady Olga’. 


thepolizzicollection.com/hotel-endsleigh 


Best of the rest 

THE FIFE ARMS, BRAEMAR 

This unique and fascinating five-star hotel is 

brimming with modern art and a sense of creativity. 


thefifearms.com 

GLENEAGLES TOWNHOUSE, 

EDINBURGH 

This former bank has been spectacularly reimagined, 

with sumptuous bedrooms fit for royalty and an 

array of magnificent original features. 


gleneagles.com/townhouse 

COWLEY MANOR EXPERIMENTAL, 

COTSWOLDS 

Experimental by name, experimental by 

nature. Transformed by the trendsetting 

Experimental Group, the innovative interiors 

of this grand county manor are beyond bold. 


cowleymanorexperimental.com 

IMAGES © MR TRIPPER / SIM CANETTY-CLARKE 

THE BULL AT CHARLBURY, 

OXFORDSHIRE 

Characterful original features, exquisite 

artisanship and pared-back style combine 

in this cosy Cotswolds pub. 


thebullcharlbury.com 


UNIVERSITY ARMS, CAMBRIDGE 

The interiors here are an ode to the world-famous 

university city in which the hotel sits. Each suite is 

complete with a private library, while bathrooms are 

located inside the building’s original domed turrets. 

From £204 per night, room only; universityarms.com 

THE ROOKERY, CLERKENWELL 

Established in 1764 and abundant in period 

charm, this cosy boutique hotel near St Paul's 

Cathedral has a warm, homely atmosphere and a 

palpable sense of history. 

Average room rate £369 per night, room only; 

rookeryhotel.com 

GLEBE HOUSE, DEVON 

This small, stylish guesthouse, restaurant and 

15-acre smallholding in East Devon is filled with colour, 

clashing prints and cosy, characterful bedrooms. 


glebehousedevon.co.uk 

BURGH ISLAND HOTEL, SOUTH 

DEVON 

This unique hotel sits on its own private island in 

South Devon and is renowned for its beautiful Art 

Deco interiors. 


burghisland.com 

As featured on our front cover... 

THE GRANARY AT THE NEWT 

IN SOMERSET 

Originally built to store grain, this charming 

Georgian granary has been cleverly converted 

into a deeply romantic and luxurious hideaway for 

two, with a king-size bed, exposed stone walls and 

a shower room concealed beneath the floor. 

Rates for The Granary are from £895 per 

night, including breakfast, cream tea, 12-month 

Newt Membership, and an in-room larder and bar; 

thenewtinsomerset.com 


Meet the 

Maker 

After moving to the Wiltshire countryside with her husband who took on 

The Beckford Arms, Chloë Luxton had a major tumbleweed moment. Inspired 

by her love of nature and desire to create a lasting impression on their guests, she 

founded her own company – Bramley. Here, she shares her secrets to success... 

Text by Amy Bonifas 

single-use plastic bottles filled with cheap, artificial products. 

“Naturally, I saw this as an opportunity to create my own 

brand – and Bramley was born. I have always been interested 

in beauty products from an early age. When I was little, I 

made ‘flower perfume’ – a mixture of rose petals from the 

garden and my mother’s perfume – and sold it from a stall 

outside our house for 10p. 

“Initially with Bramley, we created a collection of six 

products (minus the rose petals) and included everything 

our guests needed for a weekend away, from shampoo to 

body lotion.” Three children, (Otto, Monty and Inca), two 

dogs and five chickens later, Chloë has grown her renowned 

Wiltshire-born brand alongside The Beckford Group's 

thriving hospitality business. 

If you want something done, do it yourself, right? Never 

has this mantra been more true than for wellness brand 

founder Chloë Luxton. She built a business from scratch 

after seeing a huge gap in the market 15 years ago, and 

her collection of English countryside-inspired products are 

now stocked in 500+ hotels, pubs and restaurants – as well as 

retailers like Fortnum & Mason and John Lewis. 

“After marrying my husband Charlie in 2009, we moved 

out of London to take on the Beckford Arms – a beautiful 

country pub with eight bedrooms in Wiltshire,” says Chloë. 

“But, when searching for bath and body products to put in 

the rooms, I discovered everything on the market came in 


‘ 

Bramley is a real labour of love – I often call it my ‘firstborn,’... I’m so 

passionate about it and like to think that can be felt in our products. 

’ 

The Beckford Arms is now a destination pub with rooms 

set within the rolling grounds of the Fonthill Estate. And, 

they’ve opened five other gorgeous sites in the South West, 

to include The Talbot Inn in the historic village of Mells, The 

Bath Arms in the stunning Longleat Estate and The Lord 

Poulett Arms in the heart of the historic Somerset village of 

Hinton St George – each stocked, of course, with irresistible 

Bramley products. 

No stranger to the beauty industry, Chloë had previously 

worked at successful brands like Cowshed (where she met her 

husband) and Green & Spring. This experience and knowhow 

became the leverage she needed to keep Bramley head 

and shoulders above the rest. 

“One of the main lessons I took from my time at Cowshed 

was the power of getting your customers to experience the 

products for free – it really does encourage them to go on and 

make a purchase. 

“Since starting out, we’ve seen steady, organic growth 

– which has suited me because it worked around my young 

family,” says Chloë. 

Bramley continues to grow – there’s now Little B – a 

collection of gentle children’s bath-time products; and Digby 

– a selection of natural shampoos and balms for dogs; and 

following an exciting rebrand in 2023 comes Chloë’s latest 

brainchild, Bramley Skin. 

“I work closely with Caroline, our trained skin expert. 

She understands the body's physiology, having worked as 

a therapist for over 20 years. Everything in our collection 

has a clear function; for example, our Apple Peel AHA Face 

Exfoliator is filled with hydrating cucumber, papaya, and 

glycolic, lactic and malic acids.” 

This collaboration has also led to the brand’s newest 

venture – the Bramley Treatment Cabin. Nestled among 

the birds, bees, and beautiful gardens of The Bath Arms in 

Longleat, the cabin (on wheels!) recently flung its doors open 

to guests and visitors to indulge in bespoke Bramley facials 

and body massages. 

“Caroline and I devised the range of treatments. Each 

has a magical mix of botanicals blended with science-based 

natural ingredients to ensure they work hard for your skin.” 


That’ll be why the lavender and geranium Hand Cream 

leaves your hands buttery soft but absorbs quickly enough 

so you’re not left with slippery hands for hours, or why the 

Magnolia Soothing Bath, Body & Shower Oil is made with 

essential oils that nourish rather than strip your skin’s delicate 

moisture barrier. 

This slow and natural philosophy is always at the heart 

of Chloë’s vision for the brand, and product creation is a 

thoughtful process driven by an expert team. “Once we’ve 

thought of an idea, we work out which essential oils to use 

and how we want the customer to feel while using it, we then 

blend these oils with the bases. 

“This is when the magic happens. All our scents are 

uplifting and the unique blends of botanicals give you a 

moment to recharge.” 

Before each finished creation can be brought to market, 

new products undergo plenty of testing before it’s onto 

packaging. “Our new designs by artist Flora Wallace reflect 

the natural ingredients inside the bottles. Flora creates her 

inks from foraged botanicals, and we’ve worked hard to make 

our packaging as ecofriendly as possible.” 

Sustainability has been and always will be the top priority 

for the brand. Chloë has spoken out about too many brands 

using dishonest greenwashing tactics rather than making 

genuine efforts to make their products kinder to the planet. 

“In the beginning, we launched with 5-litre jerry cans of 

product and empty Bramley bottles that could be refilled and 

they’re still our biggest seller today. Last year, we launched 

our range of compostable refill pouches so customers can top 

up their bottles over and over again.” 

And Chloë’s ingenuity continues to flow. There’s plenty in 

the pipeline for the coming year, including a launch in the US 

and sharing Bramley Skin with more fantastic hotel and spa 

partners. 

“Bramley is a real labour of love – I often call it my 

‘firstborn,’” says Chloë. “I’m so passionate about it and like 

to think that can be felt in our products.” 

The only thing left to do is try a Bramley staple for 

yourself. Whether during a rejuvenating stay at one of the 

Beckford Hotels or while being pampered in the Bramley Spa 

Treatment Cabin, Chloë's heavenly beauty products have 

certainly made it much easier to relax and rejuvenate to the 

blissful scent of the countryside. 

Bramley products available at bramleyproducts.com. 

Rooms at The Bath Arms, Longleat from £130 a night with 

breakfast; treatments at The Bramley Cabin priced from £50 for 

a Mini Bramley Bespoke Facial or Back, Neck, Shoulder & Scalp 

Massage; batharmsinn.com 


Three must-visit places when staying at The Beckford 

Arms, Wiltshire 

1. Messums Gallery, Place Farm 

“This art gallery and creative community space is housed in the 

most glorious tithe barn. There’s a cafe for coffee and cake and 

plenty of nearby countryside walks.” 

2. Pythouse Kitchen Garden, West Hatch 

“Set in an 18th-century walled garden, this sustainable restaurant 

serves up the most delicious lunches. They also have outdoor 

cooking events and supper parties.” 

3. Bramley Treatment Cabin, Bath Arms 

“I’d of course book in for a new Bramley treatment at our sister 

pub, The Bath Arms. It’s worth the 30-minute drive over there!” 

Chloë’s top three ways to properly relax and 

unwind 

1. Go for a decompression walk 

“I love these longer, sunnier days and when I get home from work, 

I like taking the dog out for a walk (maybe with a child on a bike in 

tow) and decompressing in nature.” 

2. Try mindful cooking 

“I find the monotony of chopping vegetables surprisingly 

therapeutic! Sometimes, it’s a good idea to tune into a simple task 

and be present rather than always going on autopilot.” 

3. Swap your phone for a book before bed 

“I know it’s simple, but when I read my book in the evening instead 

of scrolling, I can switch off so much easier before bed.” 


UNIQUE 

LUXURY 

Stays 

As the days grow shorter, come in 

from the cold and indulge yourself 

on a luxurious break. Whether 

it’s a blustery beach walk or a 

gourmet dining experience you 

fancy, there is a hotel for every 

occasion this season 

Text by Natalie Paris 

1BEST FOR THE HARVEST 

Lympstone Manor, Devon 

For a luxurious stay that overlooks an award-winning 

vineyard, step forward Lympstone Manor, owned by 

Michelin-starred chef Michael Caines. Endless rows of vines 

spread out across the hotel grounds, from the doors down 

towards the boats that slip past on the Exe estuary. This 

is the UK’s only Michelin-starred hotel-restaurant to have 

its own vineyard, where guests can sit down to the chef’s 

impeccable food, and enjoy a wine-flight experience (with 

gin to follow) made exclusively from grapes grown on the 

lawn. Vinophiles can take a vineyard tour with a glass of 

Classic Cuvee, while those wanting to get their hands dirty 

should look out for the hotel’s community picking days at 

harvest time. 

Doubles from £347, including breakfast, 

lympstonemanor.co.uk 

IMAGE © MARK ASHBEE 


2BEST FOR WELLNESS 

St Moritz, Cornwall 

Ease yourself into winter as 

the nights grow darker at 

the St Moritz hotel, with the opening 

of its sleek new multimillion pound 

spa. This beacon of wellness and 

coastal living situated in Trebetherick, 

offers Cowshed spa packages (the 

only Cowshed Spa outside of Soho 

House properties – and the only 

coastal one in the UK) for the ultimate 

relaxation break. Fused with Miamiinspired, 

striped motifs the new spa 

includes an indoor pool, a swim-out 

hydro pool, a crystal steam room, 

a Nordic and traditional sauna, an 

elemental ice fountain, a drench 

bucket and experience showers to 

allow for hot- and cold-water therapy 

sessions. Packages include daily spa 

treatments, locally-sourced meals 

at the Shorecrest restaurant, allyou-can-devour 

breakfast and the 

chance to try surfing lessons or sea-life 

trips to view puffins, seals, dolphins, 

porpoises and whales. Guests can also 

charter a RIB themselves, for a private 

exploration of local bays. St Moritz is 

spread above Polzeath, offering 48 

rooms, self-catered coastal villas and 

apartments, with varying sea views. 

Double rooms from £150, including 

breakfast, stmoritzhotel.co.uk 


3BEST FOR FAMILIES 

Port Lympne, Kent 

Children can get into the 

Halloween spirit at Port 

Lympne, as the upmarket safari camp 

offers pumpkin-inspired fun during 

the October half-term. At any time, 

children can learn to be an animal 

keeper for the day or enjoy a behindthe-scenes 

animal encounter. They 

can help the keepers scatter treats 

for animals too. The park’s newest 

accommodation is The Lookout 

Bubble, close to the lion enclosure. 

Children will love stargazing through 

its transparent ceiling during dark 

winter nights. There are also boutique 

hotel rooms, treehouses and lodges to 

try. Christmas at Port Lympne involves 

songs from a choir, a visit from Father 

Christmas, festive films, food and 

exclusive safari access. 

Doubles from £269 a night, 

including breakfast, 

aspinallfoundation.org 

IMAGE © REBECCA DOUGLAS 


4BEST FOR AUTUMN FOLIAGE 

Storrs Hall, Windermere 

Sink into a cedarwood hot tub, 

positioned just above Windermere, 

for picture-perfect views of autumn’s changing 

colours. The lake’s shores are a blaze of auburn, 

russet and gold at this time of year, and the hot 

tubs – there is one outside each lodge – give 

guests the chance to admire them while enjoying 

an indulgent soak. The hotel has its own jetty, for 

leaf-peeping boat tours of the lake, and there are 

roaring fires in the hotel lounges to cosy up beside 

afterwards. Dine at the Lake Edge Restaurant 

before enjoying a nightcap in the atmospheric, 

mahogany Tower Bar. 

Doubles from £253, including breakfast, 

storrshall.com 

5BEST FOR SOLO TRAVELLERS 

Bovey Castle, Devon 

Pick up a new hobby at Bovey Castle, nestled among 

the forests of Dartmoor, where you could learn to drive 

a 4WD off-road, practise yoga, shoot an air rifle or even try 

your hand at beekeeping. Solo travellers are well looked after 

at the hotel, with a raft of activities for guests to enjoy as part 

of a group or alongside an instructor. Golfers can work on their 

stroke on the 18-hole championship course or there is an Elan 

spa to relax in. Best of all, there are bedrooms for singles that 

don’t involve paying a double-room supplement. Dine at a 

choice of two restaurants. 

Doubles from £149 a night, not including breakfast, 

boveycastle.com 


IMAGE © JUSTIN DE SOUZA 

6BEST FOR LARGE GROUPS 

Babington House, Somerset 

Before Soho Farmhouse there was Babington 

House, Soho House’s first rural outpost. Sitting 

between country lanes not far from the pretty village of Mells 

and the trendy town of Bruton, this fun-loving hotel is ideal 

for groups who are looking to celebrate. In the grounds 

of the Georgian honey-stone hotel are two lodges that 

accommodate groups of four or six. The Cabin is rustic chic 

and set beside a lake, while the Lodge is a two-storey cottage 

on the edge of the rambling estate. During winter, guests will 

appreciate the hotel’s blazing fires, the twinkly, well-stocked 

bar and the inviting Cowshed spa. Bath is half-an-hour’s 

drive away and has an atmospheric Christmas market, from 

28 November to 15 December. 

Doubles from £360 a night, not including breakfast, for 

nonmembers (plus a £100 ‘Friends of Soho House’ fee). 

sohohouse.com 

7BEST FOR GOURMET DINING 

Grove of Narberth, Wales 

This corner of Pembrokeshire is a natural larder, 

stocked with tempting food and drink at any time 

of year, but especially when the Narberth Food Festival 

comes to town. At the end of September, Welsh produce 

is celebrated over two days during the festival, which has 

run for 24 years and is just five minutes from The Grove of 

Narberth. The hotel has a boutique feel and a fine restaurant 

in The Fernery, which showcases quality, local ingredients in 

its seasonal dishes under executive chef Douglas Balish. A 

seven-course tasting menu is available. For more informal 

dining, try the charming Artisan Brasserie. Picnics and 

afternoon teas are also available for guests. 

Doubles from £220 a night, including breakfast, 

grovenarberth.co.uk 


8BEST FOR BRINGING 

THE DOG 

Loch Rannoch, Scotland 

Drink in autumn’s splendour 

in forested glens near Loch Rannoch 

with your best buddy. The Loch 

Rannoch Hotel and Spa invites dogs 

and their owners to come and explore 

the glorious Highlands – with views 

across to a golden-leaf-cloaked 

Munro. In autumn, stags will be 

roaring, so keep furry friends on 

a leash. Pooches are welcome to 

stay in certain Contemporary class 

rooms, where they are given a dog 

bed, towel, water bowl and treats 

(for a £20 charge). They are allowed 

in the Wild Brownie Bar but not in 

the drawing room or the hotel’s two 

smarter restaurants. Guests can relish 

the fresh air with kayaking trips, wild 

swims, or afternoons spent cycling or 

paddleboarding on the loch’s calm 

water. Treatments are by ESPA. 

Doubles from £118, including 

breakfast, lochrannochhotel.com 


10BEST FOR FORAGING 

WildLuing 

Autumn's food produce makes it a great 

season for foraging, and WildLuing is 

somewhere offering real immersion in the countryside. 

The low-key but luxurious development consists of eight 

individual suites embedded into a hillside on the remote 

island of Luing. Set between them is the Observatory, 

WildLuing's hub, with an open-plan kitchen-dining room 

and windows from which to spot otters in Torsa Bay below. 

In October, food and whisky enthusiasts can indulge 

in a curated weekend of feasting and whisky tasting with 

an expert from Nc'nean Distillery, who will talk about 

sustainable whisky production. A feast of Luing Beef and 

fresh seafood from Ballintaggart chefs follows, while in 

the morning, guests can join a masterclass in how to cook 

fish and local seafood. Foraging courses are possible at 

other times. 

Suites from £350 for two people, 4–6 October, not 

including feasting or classes; wildluing.com 

9BEST FOR A CULTURAL CITY BREAK 

The Corinthia, London 

As Christmas approaches, a city break 

in England’s capital is hard to beat. The 

Corinthia is a chic hotel that gets decked out beautifully 

for the festive season and has a rooftop terrace 

(complete with firepits) offering views of London 

twinkling merrily at night. Shoppers will have the city’s 

finest stores close to hand and will appreciate the 

high-quality service afforded to them by staff at this 

time. Although plans for winter 2024 have yet to be 

finalised, in the past this has included special concierge 

services and festive pop-up shops. Theatreland is also 

close by for guests with tickets to pantomimes or West 

End shows. 

Double rooms from £846 a night, including breakfast, 

corinthia.com 


Edinburgh’s Luxury Floating Hotel 

Step aboard Fingal, a hotel with all the glamour and style of a super yacht 

but with an old world elegance that is completely unique. 

TRIPADVISOR’S NO.1 UK LUXURY HOTEL & NO.1 UK SMALL & BOUTIQUE HOTEL. AA HOTEL OF THE YEAR SCOTLAND 

Cycling - Walking - Touring Holidays 

Tailormade for the discerning traveller 

of 

to 

For over 30 years The Carter Company has delivered authentic walking and cycling tours that uncover the hidden secrets, as 

well as the highlights, of historic Britain. All our tours are individually crafted and self-guided with flexible start dates so you 

can explore at your own pace. With local hosts to welcome you and hand-picked accommodation from traditional inns to 

luxury castles - we take care of every detail. 

Hadrian’s Wall … The English Lake District … Devon and Cornwall … The Cotswolds … The Yorkshire Dales … 

Dorset and The New Forest… The Thames … The Scottish Highlands and Islands … Wales Coasts and Mountains … Kent 

www.the-carter-company.com + 44 (0) 1296 631671 hello@the-carter-company.com

DIVE 

beneath 

BRITAIN’S WAVES

With nearly 20,000 miles of 

diverse coasts, our charming 

wild isles are teeming with 

natural beauty, maritime 

traditions and some of the most 

unique diving in the world 

Text by Danielle Schofield 

Scenic reefs and historic shipwrecks are havens for 

boundless shoals of fish and other British marine 

life, from seahorses, crustaceans and octopuses to 

dolphins, seals and basking sharks. 

Indulge your wellbeing and wanderlust with an 

escape into exclusive, unfiltered scuba experiences. With 

endless possibilities for aspiring and seasoned divers, 

these destinations connect the best of luxury travel with 

breathtaking underwater vistas. 

THE LIZARD PENINSULA, CORNWALL 

From secluded Porthkerris Cove, you can discover one of 

the UK’s prettiest beach dives, explore shallow shipwrecks 

and encounter cuttlefish, thornback rays and dolphins. The 

Manacles’ jewel-encrusted pinnacles and allegedly haunted 

SS Mohegan are an adventurers’ playground, while seasonal 

basking shark trips present a chance to snorkel with gentle 

giants. 

Dive with: Porthkerris Divers; porthkerris.com 

Stay at: The Polurrian, a contemporary clifftop retreat 

overlooking the Lizard’s dramatic coastline; 

polurrianhotel.com 


JURASSIC COAST, DORSET 

Remarkable geology is only a hint of this World Heritage 

Site’s allure. Chesil Beach and Swanage Pier are 

renowned shore dives where colourful critters enchant 

first-time divers and underwater photographers alike. 

The Dredger joins a catalogue of beginner-friendly 

shipwrecks, while advanced divers wax lyrical about the 

M2 submarine. 

Dive with: Old Harbour Dive Centre; 

oldharbourdivecentre.co.uk 

Stay at: The Pig on the Beach, where uninterrupted 

coastal panoramas meet locally sourced, kitchengarden 

cuisine; thepighotel.com/on-the-beach 

LUNDY, NORTH DEVON 

This remote island set in the Bristol Channel is a 

sanctuary for wildlife and National Heritage List wrecks. 

It’s also one of the premier dive sites for unforgettable 

encounters with grey seals; these curious pinnipeds 

won’t hesitate to give your fins a playful nibble. 

Dive with: Easy Divers; easydiversnorthdevon.co.uk 

Stay at: Watersmeet, where beachside rooms promise 

stunning sea views across to Lundy on the horizon; 

watersmeethotel.co.uk 


PLYMOUTH, DEVON 

With a rich naval backstory, Britain’s Ocean City is home 

to many unique dive sites, including ex-warship HMS 

Scylla, now a flourishing artificial reef, and the Eddystone 

Lighthouse. Accessible shore dives and shipwrecks 

alongside ample waterside amenities will satiate each step 

of your underwater journey. 

Dive with: Plymouth Diving Centre; 

plymouthdivingcentre.co.uk 

Stay at: Boringdon Hall, a quintessential Devonshire 

manor with Michelin-star dining and a wellness spa; 

boringdonhall.co.uk 

JERSEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS 

If you’re unsure about diving into cooler water, then step 

into Jersey’s inviting, glassy seas, which reach a balmy 

20°C. Competent divers can fly along with the island’s 

exhilarating currents, while plentiful sheltered bays and 

easily reached shipwrecks like La Mauve and MV Heron 

will welcome beginners. 

Dive with: Bouley Bay Dive Centre; scubadivingjersey.com 

Stay at: Longueville Manor, an underrated jewel in 

Jersey’s countryside, with refined gardens and enchanting 

woodland walks; longuevillemanor.com 

PEMBROKESHIRE, WALES 

Skomer Island is famed for puffins, dolphins and seals, 

but you’ll discover a myriad of flora and fauna below 

its protected shoreline. Hundreds of shipwrecks are 

scattered around this Welsh wonderland; the MV Lucy 

is a deep diver's favourite. On the mainland, St Brides 

and Martin’s Haven offer picturesque beach dives for 

every ability. 

Dive with: Haven Diving Services; 

havendivingservices.com 

Stay at: Grove of Narbeth, where rural Welsh tradition 

takes on a modern twist; grovenarberth.co.uk 

VOBSTER QUAY, SOMERSET 

Spread over 36 acres, this inland flooded quarry is 

an ideal training ground, designed with swimmers, 

snorkellers and divers in mind. Underwater attractions 

include a helicopter, quarry crushing works and 

freshwater fish aplenty, while seasonal activities range 

from Halloween night diving to Scuba Santas. 

Dive with: Vobster Quay; vobster.com 

Stay at: Number One Bruton, an elegant Georgian 

townhouse ideally situated for Vobster, Bath, and 

Somerset’s landmarks; numberonebruton.com 


OBAN, SCOTLAND 

A gateway to the beautiful Inner Hebrides, this 

undulating coastline hosts an abundance of delights for 

first-time and experienced divers. Explore the intact SS 

Breda and Rondo wrecks, behold fascinating creatures 

lurking in sea lochs and look out for visiting basking 

sharks in the summer. 

Dive with: Puffin Dive Centre; puffin.org.uk 

Stay at: No. 26 By The Sea exudes high-end, Highland 

style with picture-perfect ocean views; 

no26bythesea.com 

STONEY COVE, LEICESTERSHIRE 

An inland diving hub for over 60 years, this flooded 

quarry contains a series of platforms graded for novices 

and beyond, and a thriving population of freshwater 

crayfish. A 400-year-old Elizabethan shipwreck is a 

treat for underwater archaeologists, while qualified 

divers can visit a real diving bell in the deepest part. 

Dive with: Stoney Cove; stoneycove.com 

Stay at: Kilworth House, an exquisite Victorian estate 

where an open-air woodland theatre enhances the 

sense of occasion; kilworthhouse.co.uk 

ST ABBS, SCOTLAND 

In the Scottish Borders, rugged cliffs drop into crystalline 

waters where you’ll find some of the UK’s best shore 

diving and snorkelling. At the ethereal Cathedral Rock, 

sunlight dances through tunnels while craggy walls and 

crevices are blanketed with vibrant invertebrates. Lucky 

divers may even spot the elusive wolffish. 

Dive with: Deep Blue Scuba; deepbluescuba.co.uk 

Stay at: Fingal, a floating hotel which blends a luxury 

Edinburgh city break with the spirit of the sea; 

fingal.co.uk 

CAUSEWAY COAST, NORTHERN IRELAND 

Although there’s no diving at Giant’s Causeway, the 

33-mile coastline neighbouring this UNESCO-listed 

site is characterised by striking scenery and dives to 

suit all skills. Try scuba by the Carrick-a-Rede bridge, 

play hide-and-seek with seals in kelp forests or traverse 

Rathlin Island and the HMS Drake wreck. 

Dive with: Aquaholics; aquaholics.co.uk 

Stay at: The Bushmills Inn, a quietly luxurious Causeway 

Coast hotel that’s enriched with Irish heritage; 

bushmillsinn.com 

64 BritishTravelJournal.com 

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IMAGES © GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO / SIMON BROWN / PAWEL PAJOR PHOTOGRAPHY / LEWIS M JEFFERIES / IAN AT VISUAL REEF

ORKNEY ISLANDS, SCOTLAND 

Steeped in wartime history, Scapa Flow is one of the world’s 

finest wreck-diving destinations. Exploring the scuttled WWI 

German High Seas Fleet, particularly its three leviathan 

battleships, is humbling. It’s not just for technical divers, 

though; the Churchill Barriers and surrounding reefs make an 

unparalleled backdrop for scuba tasters. 

Dive with: Kraken Diving; krakendiving.co.uk 

Stay at: The Kirkwall Hotel, where authentic harbourside 

slumbers are a stone’s throw from Scapa; 

kirkwallhotel.com 

FARNE ISLANDS, NORTHUMBERLAND 

This small archipelago near Bamburgh has spectacular 

reefs and wrecks galore for every interest. Even so, the star 

attraction is its infamous colony of around 5,000 grey seals. 

Certified divers can enrich their experience by taking a Grey 

Seal Awareness course to learn more about these frolicsome 

mammals. 

Dive with: Aquanorth Diving Centre; aquanorth.co.uk 

Stay at: The Tempus, a stylish boutique hotel close to 

Northumberland Coast's Area of Outstanding Natural 

Beauty; thetempus.co.uk 


Spotlight ON 

PALÉ HALL: 

REDISCOVERING 

OPULENCE 

Embark on a remarkable journey back in time and experience the opulent 

grandeur of Palé Hall, a true gem nestled in the serene Dee Valley of Wales. 

British Travel Journal visits for a fairy-tale weekend and meets the new 

owners who have some significant plans in the pipeline 

Text by Jessica Way

‘ 

Set against the breathtaking backdrop of Snowdonia, Palé Hall is an idyllic 

and immaculately restored estate amid the picturesque Welsh countryside. 

’ 

enhancements introduced by new owners Anthony and 

Donna Barney, whose exciting visions and aspirations for the 

future will continue its legacy, and there’s perhaps never been 

a better time to visit. 

We stayed in Harper’s Barn, an impressive two-bedroom 

double-storey conversion with a kitchen and dining area big 

enough for entertaining a gathering of at least a dozen or 

so friends, an enormous primary bedroom with an en-suite 

bathroom and luxurious roll-top bath, and a stunning openplan 

living area with striking full-height exposed beams. 

Grade II-listed Victorian country house Palé 

Hall is Wales’ most sought-after staycation 

destination. It exudes a timeless allure that 

seamlessly intertwines modern luxury with a 

wealth of original features from when it was a family home 

back in the 1870s. Set against the breathtaking backdrop of 

Snowdonia, Palé Hall is an idyllic and immaculately restored 

50-acre estate amid the picturesque Welsh countryside. Add 

to this, the property’s deep-rooted history and numerous 


‘ 

On the ground floor sundeck is a hot tub ideal for stargazing or relaxing 

the muscles after a long hike; for us, it was the perfect reward after reaching 

the summit and defeating Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon). 

’ 

used during her visit, still fit for royalty. Other garden suites 

include Hillside Cottage, the Fern Suite, and the Bracken 

Suite, each beautifully restored from Palé Hall’s original 

Victorian Coach House. 

Shortly after checking in, we met General Manager Debbie 

Cappadona, who oversees the running of the 5-star hotel. 

Debbie has been instrumental in the hotel’s previous expansion 

and Michelin awards and now shares the bold ambitions of the 

hotel’s new owners for future developments. 

Further expansion plans include launching a new 

restaurant, adding a new multisensory immersive spa with an 

Light floods through the floor-to-ceiling glass, and 

stepping out onto the balcony terrace there are views of the 

garden and surrounding hills. On the ground floor sundeck is 

a hot tub ideal for stargazing or relaxing the muscles after a 

long hike, for us; it was the perfect reward after reaching the 

summit and defeating Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon). 

Inside the illustrious country house there are 22 more 

rooms, each uniquely designed with distinctive charm. The 

Victoria Room, aptly named after the Queen who once 

stayed there, features the original bath and antique bed 


organic dining area, a sculpture trail, Chauffer-driven Rolls 

Royce guided tours, and in time, increasing the number of 

hotel bedrooms and introducing garden suites. 

We were fortunate enough to enjoy a coffee with Tony 

and Donna in the exquisite Four Seasons room, just two 

weeks after they had acquired Palé Hall. Their passion for 

their acquisition was infectious; they aim for big things in the 

coming years. In the brief period since buying the hotel, Tony 

and Donna have wasted no time renewing the property with 

fresh paint, hanging up new chandeliers, and adorning the 

walls with artwork from talented French and African artists 

discovered during their world travels. Most recently they have 

purchased a neighbouring olde worlde country pub, The 

Bryntirion Inn, situated at the bottom of the hotel’s drive, 

and once sympathetically refurbished, will add to their estate 

offering, and with locals in mind. 

Tony shared a fascinating story about the hidden 

Victorian railway located at the bottom of the hotel's 

woodland garden, running alongside the river. He recently 

acquired a train from Marwell Zoo and is excited about the 

prospect of restoring the railway to working order for the 

enjoyment of future hotel guests. 

It was a delightful surprise to discover that Tony grew up 

in the same village we live in. When he displayed a photo of 

the train on his phone our daughters immediately recognised 

it – they had enjoyed riding it numerous times when they 

were young. We had many enjoyable conversations, sharing 

our local knowledge and fondness for both Hampshire and 

Gwynedd. We could have easily chatted with Donna and 

Tony all afternoon; however, we had our own train to catch! 

Situated within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, 

Llangollen Railway is a 10-mile Heritage Railway Line from 

Llangollen to Corwen, passing through the picturesque Dee 

Valley. The line features five stations, each offering charming 

walks with stunning scenery. You can Dine on the Line, 

indulging in a delightful afternoon tea against a backdrop 

of breathtaking views, and as the sun sets, there are evening 

trains with distinctive themed including the Real Ale Train 

and The Gin Train. 

For a unique railway experience closer to the hotel, the 

Bala Lake Railway operates narrow-gauge steam trains that 

were originally slate quarry locomotives. The 4.5-mile track 

runs alongside the picturesque lakeshore, leading to the 

delightful period station at Llanuwchllyn. It's a truly relaxing 

way to enjoy the beauty of Bala Lake. 

There are many surrounding walking routes too, nestled 

among deeply wooded valleys, with river walks and 

spectacular waterfalls. Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park 

offers over 800 square miles of diverse landscapes and 

is not only home to Wales’ highest mountain, Yr Wyddfa 

(Snowdon), but also to many stunning lakes, such as 

Llyn Padarn in Llanberis; and beautiful villages, including 

Beddgelert and Betws-y-Coed; not to mention the canals; 

and the Slate Trail, which recently became a UNESCO World 

Heritage Site. 

It is not far to visit the UK’s quirkiest village either: 

Portmeirion in Gwynedd, known for its charming and 

colourful architecture. For adventure seekers, the nearby 

Zip World offers the world's fastest zipline, Europe's longest 

zipline, and the UK's only alpine coaster through the trees. 

Our final evening was spent indulging in gastronomic 

delights in the renowned Michelin Green Star Henry 

Robertson restaurant, where Head Chef Sam Griffiths 

(Welsh chef of the year) has elevated the dining experience to 

unparalleled heights. 

With its fresh perspectives and plans in the pipeline, 

commitment to sustainability and a rich tapestry of history 

and modernity, Palé Hall promises an enchanting sojourn 

that transcends the ordinary. 

Prices from £320 for an overnight stay based on two sharing a 

Classic Room, including breakfast; palehall.co.uk, pobhotels.com 


ROMAN 

gateway 

British Travel Journal explores 

city roaming in Exeter, a 

Roman city with Georgian 

architecture, surrounded by the 

lush countryside of Devon 

Text by Adrian Mourby 

Illustrations by Karen Katon-Oprey 

Exeter is the gateway to two of Britain’s favourite 

counties, Devon and Cornwall. The M5 ends 

here. From now on, holidaymakers and their 

surfboards are on their own, trundling down ever 

narrower A-roads and getting stuck in hedges when a car 

is coming in the other direction. 

But Exeter is a city well worth visiting in its own right. 

It was founded by the Romans on a cliff above the River 

Exe and its medieval cathedral was built on the site of 

a long-abandoned legionary fortress that had its own 

luxury bathhouses. The line of Roman walls can still be 

traced today with around 70% of the walls still standing. 

Start this walk outside Wynyard’s Almshouses, 

opposite the Hotel du Vin on Magdalen Street. 

William Wynard was a wealthy Exeter citizen who 

founded this quadrangle of houses in 1435 to provide 

homes for 12 infirm paupers and priests. These sandstone 

buildings suffered much damage in the Civil War (1642– 

51) as they lay outside the city walls that were besieged by 

Royalist forces. The houses were extensively restored in a 

historic style during the 1860s. 

Now head west on Magdalen Street and then turn 

right on to Southernhay, one of the most attractive 18thcentury 

streets in Exeter, just beyond the old city walls. 

Even the new-build Mercure Southgate Hotel matches its 

historic style. 

Head north past the old Royal Devon and Exeter 

Hospital, which was founded in 1741 and built in a grand 

combination of red brick and white quoins. A group of 

local gentlemen funded the project and in 1899 the Duke 

of York, our future George V, visited and bestowed its 

royal title. Since 1974 the hospital has relocated outside 

the old city but this palatial building remains as offices, 

and also houses the fabulous Cosy Club – open for 

breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving delicious food and 

top-notch cocktails with a touch of timeless glamour. 


‘ 

Princesshay is also home to Exeter's Underground Passages attraction, 

giving visitors a guided tour of the 14th-century subterranean passageways 

that used to transport water under the city centre. 

’ 

Now follow signs to the Cathedral, turning left under the 

Burnet-Patch Bridge. This wrought-iron structure (the first 

pedestrian bridge in Exeter) was built in 1814 and covers a gap in 

the city walls that was created in 1753 when a crumbling 13thcentury 

tower was demolished. The lack of a tower made access 

to the cathedral easier, but it also meant that whenever the 

mayor of Exeter did his annual procession around the city walls 

at Michaelmas, he had to clamber down the wall and then up 

again. In 1814, Mayor Burnet-Patch commissioned this innovatory 

, delicate bridge to span the gap. 


A few yards later, the Cathedral Church of St Peter 

comes into view, an impressive sight because the buildings 

that once leaned against it have been cleared, leaving just 

lawns. 

The first Norman-style cathedral on this site was 

constructed on the remains of a Roman fortress in 1050 

but it was significantly rebuilt around 1400. The cathedral 

now has the longest uninterrupted medieval vaulted 

ceiling in the world. It also has an astronomical clock and 

a rare minstrels’ gallery. The overall style would be classed 

as Decorated Gothic (seamlessly restored after the bomb 

blasts of World War II) but with two huge Romanesque 

towers that survived from the Norman period. 

Leaving the Cathedral Yard by Broadgate, turn right 

into High Street. Much of Exeter was badly bombed in the 

first of Hitler’s 'Baedeker' Raids. These attacks attempted 

to break British morale by targeting cities of great historical 

and cultural, rather than strategic, importance. (Oxford 

was spared because Hitler wanted it for his new British 

capital.) Exeter’s new High Street shows how much of the 

medieval city had to be rebuilt, but its historic Guildhall, 

supported by four sturdy granite columns, remains, as does 

the Turk’s Head Inn next door. 

The Turk’s Head is recognised as one of the oldest 

pubs in Exeter and there is every reason to believe that 

originally it had the decapitated head of a Turkish warrior 

from the crusades hanging outside. But the current 

building is mid-Victorian and is said to have provided a 

place of inspiration and creativity for Charles Dickens 

who frequented the pub when he took his reading tours 

on the road, and even had his own corner where he would 

pen his timeless novels. 

Continue north east up High Street to Castle Street 

and then turn right at the Roman East Gate, now just a 

ruin but an indication of how condensed was the Roman 

WHERE TO STAY 

– 

Hotel Du Vin Exeter 

Above the Exe Valley sits this old Victorian eye 

hospital converted by the ever-imaginative 

Hotel du Vin group into an imposing place to 

stay. It’s also a popular wedding venue with a 

bright, tropical-style, new-build dining room 

and circular lawn. 

hotelduvin.com 

– 

The Turks Head 

Be welcomed with a Malfy Rosa & Tonic at 

The Turks Head – one of the region's oldest 

pubs and a favourite watering hole of Charles 

Dickens – or so we believe. Recently restored 

to its former glory, this traditional pub with 

rooms has over 700 years of history and is 

located in the heart of the city. 

turksheadexeter.com 

– 

Hotel Indigo Exeter 

Lovingly restored and converted from the 

former House of Fraser department store, this 

104-bedroom hotel has been designed around 

three themes reflecting the vibrance and style 

of Exeter's historic neighbourhood – The House 

That Moved, Colson's Department Store and 

Cathedral Heritage. There's a rooftop bar with 

views of Exeter Cathedral, a spa and even a nail 

bar and lounge serving Champagne. 

exeter.hotelindigo.com 


PLACES TO VISIT 

– 

Quay Climbing Centre 

Located in Exeter’s historic Quayside Quarter, 

the Quay Climbing Centre is the South West’s 

largest indoor climbing centre, with two boulder 

caves, 81 roped walls, and expert coaches. 

quayclimbingcentre.co.uk 

– 

Double Locks 

This traditional country pub is located on the 

banks of the 16th-century Ship Canal with the 

biggest beer garden in Exeter. You can’t beat 

the location and walk-ins are always welcome. 

doublelocks.com 

– 

The House that Moved 

In 1961 a medieval timber-framed house was 

prised up by its foundations and carefully 

moved out of the way of a new bypass. This 

event inspired the 1978 Puffin Books classic 

by David Rees called The House that 

Moved. It is now a bridal shop. 

pirouettethecollection.com 

city of Isca Dumnoniorum. 

From here, turn south down Eastgate and then right 

into Princesshay, with its famous statue of the Blue Boy. 

This statue's origins date back to 1733. It was modelled 

on George Wall, an ex-student of St John’s Hospital School 

that used to be based on the High Street. The original stone 

statue was based on the 'bluecoat' uniform worn by pupils 

to indicate their charitable status. 

St John's Hospital School was demolished in 1880 

to make way for a post office, but a Blueboy statue was 

rescued when the post office was destroyed during the Blitz 

in 1942. In 1949 Princess Elizabeth unveiled a brand-new 

shopping centre on this site, which was named Princesshay 

in her honour and a Blueboy was reinstated. 

Princesshay is also home to Exeter's Underground 

Passages attraction, giving visitors a guided tour of 

the 14-century subterranean passageways that used to 

transport water under the city centre – these are the only 

passages of this kind open to the public in Britain! 

At the end of Princesshay turn left into Bedford Street, 

which takes you to Roman Walk, a route along the old city 

walls that returns you to South Gate and Magdalen Street. 

FRESH DEVELOPMENTS 

– 

Exeter Quayside 

Make sure to visit the picturesque Exeter 

Quayside during your trip. This charming 

part of the city was granted Heritage 

Harbour status in 2021, making it a 

must-see destination for history and 

culture enthusiasts. With its stunning 

waterfront views, historic buildings, and 

vibrant atmosphere, a stroll along the 

Exeter Quayside offers a delightful blend 

of natural beauty and rich heritage 

visitexeter.com 

– 

Women’s Rugby World Cup 

Rugby fans, be sure to mark your 

calendars for the Women’s Rugby World 

Cup in 2025. This prestigious event will 

take place in Exeter, and the excitement 

will unfold at the renowned Sandy Park 

stadium. Don't miss this incredible 

opportunity to witness top-tier women's 

rugby action in the heart of the city. 

visitexeter.com 

– 

Quayside Distillery 

Craft your own personalised gin using 

innovative distilling methods. Then, to 

add to the charm, Quayside Distillery 

have recently introduced their very 

own floating pontoon on the canal, 

providing a picturesque setting to enjoy 

your handcrafted gin while taking in the 

waterside views. 

quaysidedistillery.co.uk 

– 

Zeal Hotel Exeter 

Set to open in January 2025 just outside 

Exeter, Zeal Hotel Exeter is anticipated to 

be a groundbreaking 142-bedroom netzero 

carbon hotel – the first to open under 

the banner of Zeal Hotels. Embracing 

an eco-conscious approach, Zeal Hotels 

aims to redefine hospitality with its focus 

on sustainability and environmental 

responsibility. Their promise is to offer 

guests a mindfully modern experience, 

combining luxury with a commitment to 

minimising carbon footprint. 

zealhotels.com 


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British Travel Journal has teamed up with PoB Hotels to 

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Over 18s only. 


ONE HUNDRED 

Harvests 

The Farm at Avebury celebrates a century in existence, continuing to 

produce its yield from the rich Wiltshire soil, diversifying with contemporary 

Stable accommodation, set at the heart of a thriving working environment 

Text by Natalie Millar-Partridge 

marshmallows, Ridgeway walks and far-reaching views. 

This is a base to explore the historic Avebury World Heritage 

Site, with a choice of wellness experiences and retreats held 

in the barn. It's also a place to celebrate, and a space to 

find calm and reconnect with nature. From the moment I 

arrived – greeted by the large neon-pink sign in the courtyard, 

reassuring me ‘This Must be The Place’– I felt a genuine 

sense of warmth and authenticity, with cut flowers and fresh 

farmhouse produce left in my cosy Stable room. 

The working farm, run by Alice and Rob Hues, is home 

to small herds of Aberdeen Angus cows, as well as Highlands 

and Belted Galloways. Then there are the adorable pigs – a 

glorious mix of OSB, Berkshire and Landrace Duroc – in the 

woods. There are also a handful of bottle-fed lambs who go 

After the brilliantly eye-opening reality TV show 

Clarkson’s Farm, we’re all more aware of the 

diversification needed for a working farm to 

survive. The UK has seen a huge transition over 

recent years, with field-to-fork dining as a concept increasing 

hugely in popularity, along with trend-driven farmhouse stays 

with design-led interiors having something of a moment. 

One such farmhouse stay can be found at The Farm 

at Avebury – a gorgeous dog- and child-friendly working 

farm – with a contemporary edge, set in the beautiful 

Wiltshire countryside. Cleverly combining stunning interiors 

and exquisite design within a rural setting, it’s a welcoming 

space – a peaceful spot to enjoy roaring fires, toasted 


on to graze in the Play Orchard; they're incredibly tame – I 

was smitten when they bounded up to me. Above all, I loved 

that the focus is on welfare and reducing food miles, rather 

than organic certification, with any supplement food coming 

from the butcher in Avebury. 

This year celebrates 100 years of the Hues Family farming 

the land in Avebury, where life on the farm is governed by the 

harvest, adapting and thriving over the century it has been 

Great Granny Sue living in the village, who at 96 remembers 

the house being bitterly cold without central heating – having 

to break ice in the jug before washing. Every July, her husband 

Roger used to go out into the fields, rub the crop between 

in existence. In a landscape where a lot of the history has 

remained unchanged for thousands of years, it is fascinating 

to think about how much has progressed since the Hues 

started farming in 1924. Alice and Rob are fortunate to have 

his palms and then bite a grain to see if it would crack and 

crunch – if it did, it’s time to harvest – you can still find Rob 

using the same technique. 

The last decade has seen a recognition of the value 

of soil as a store of carbon and nutrients; with this comes 

an increasing pressure to farm in a more environmentally 

sustainable way. With the world of farming evolving, Alice 

and Rob are working hard to build a diversified business 


‘ 

The colour and vibrancy surrounding 

the farm is reflected in the interiors – the 

brief being to have fun, go bold on colour 

and work in the character of the stable 

block, farmyard and natural landscape. 

’ 

that will survive and hopefully thrive in the next decade and 

beyond, allowing their children to feel connected to the land 

and inspired by the life that comes with farming. 

One of the ways in which the farm has diversified is 

through The Stables – used to house chickens before being 

repurposed – opening for guests in 2021. Though the 

structure of the walls remain, it was otherwise fully gutted 

and reroofed, with the original stable structure guiding the 

dimensions of the spaces. 

Now a place to soak up a fresh and contemporary take 

on farmhouse style, the six luxury self-catering stable homes 

– each beautifully and individually styled by interior designer 

Polly Ashman – cluster around a landscaped courtyard 

with pockets of seating discreetly nestled among the large 

corten-planters. Inside, the spaces are filled with characterful 

colour schemes, large oak beams, panelling, oak ladders to 

mezzanines, Ca’Pietra tiling and playful artwork by Georgie 

Weedon and Becky Borthwick. With its coir matting floor, 

the shared boot room between stables is the perfect space 

to hang wet gear, take off muddy boots and dry damp dogs 

after their walkies. 

The colour and vibrancy surrounding the farm is reflected 

in the interiors – the brief being to have fun, go bold on colour 

and work in the character of the stable block, farmyard and 

natural landscape. Quality secondhand and vintage furniture 

and accessories were sourced, along with hardwearing 

furnishings and fabrics able to withstand wear and tear of 

guests. Where possible, Alice sourced from local businesses 

and artisans, along with artwork and soft furnishings from 

Wiltshire-based artists and makers. 

I stayed in Long Barrow, a dreamy base, flooded with 

light, where a mezzanine level with huge exposed beams is 


‘ 

The Farm provides a peaceful and immersive environment to embrace rural 

life... inviting a slower pace to breathe in the fresh air and watch the 

landscape unfold with time to reflect and rebuild for busy lives back home. 

’ 

It was a joy to watch the days play out across the 

courtyard – the farm offering versatility in abundance, 

providing the perfect space for multigenerational families 

gathering, or even for participants in yoga retreats to reflect 

around a firepit. The Stables and communal areas were 

designed without compromise, welcoming couples retreating 

for the weekend, groups celebrating an occasion and families 

with four-legged friends into the same joyous spaces. 

perfectly balanced by a sumptuous living space – light and 

lofty with natural materials and lots of personal touches. The 

bathroom's aesthetic features a Victoria Plum sink and brass 

Art-Deco-inspired mirror, set against Farrow & Ball ‘Sulking 

Room Pink’ walls. Downstairs, eBay finds are fused with 

Pooky lampshades, chunky original beams, painted wood 

cladding and eye-grabbing prints from Graham & Green. 

Alice has an infectious enthusiasm for what she and 

her team have created, which is a zesty, warm and versatile 

farmhouse space with a home-from-home vibe. 


‘... I took part in a Wim Hof 

Method workshop in the renovated 

barn... not only for cold-water 

immersion, but also as a tool to 

bring into everyday life. 

’ 

During my stay, I took part in a Wim Hof Method 

workshop in the renovated barn, offering a deep dive into 

the profound use of breathwork, not only for cold-water 

immersion, but also as a tool to bring into everyday life. 

The insightful four-hour workshop took us on an 

awakening journey, practising breathing techniques 

designed to calm the nervous system. We then took the art of 

breathwork to the ice bath in the calming courtyard setting 

– after a two-minute immersion, I was astounded at how 

energised and invigorated I felt! 

Outside of the courtyard gates, fascinating Neolithic 

history surrounds the farm on its 800-acres of land, nestled 

beneath the North Downs within Avebury World Heritage 

Site – the West Kennet Long Barrow is a rare excavated 

example of a 5000-year-old burial site. Avebury Stone Circle 

itself – a lesser known cousin to Stonehenge – is set within a 

quintessentially English village, with a shop, a National Trust 

cafe and even a pub within the Circle. 

Whether celebrating the energy at solstice, or just 

enjoying the incredible stone structures, it’s an awe-inspiring 

place to visit. 

The Farm provides a peaceful and immersive environment 

to embrace rural life, with the considered surrounds of The 

Stables inviting a slower pace to breathe in the fresh air and 

watch the landscape unfold with time to reflect and rebuild 

for busy lives back home. Above all, it’s a place to celebrate 

nature and find some inner calm as we edge towards the slow 

days of winter. 

Prices for a night at The Stables at The Farm at Avebury 

start from £109 with a minimum two nights' stay. Dog-friendly 

rooms available and workshops are bookable via the website; 

thefarmatavebury.co.uk 

IMAGES © JEREMY FLINT / LAWRENCE SMITH / FARM AT AVEBURY 


SINK 

YOUR TEETH 

into Somerset

Abundant in natural beauty, this 

West Country county is a captivating 

collage of historic towns, lush 

countryside and ancient apple 

orchards. Brimming with artisan 

cheese, cider, and so much more, 

its teeming larder is reflected in a 

wealth of excellent places to eat, 

drink and be merry. British Travel 

Journal discovers where the foodies 

flock to in Somerset 


Our culinary caper begins in the picturesque 

Somerset village of South Petherton, not 

far from Yeovil. Having established several 

successful restaurants in London, Nicholas 

Balfe relocated here in 2021 and opened Holm in the 

imposing honey-coloured stone walls of a former bank. 

Driven by provenance, seasonality and sustainability, Balfe’s 

creative, thoughtful menu pays homage to the county’s 

natural bounty. The Westcombe Cheddar fries are famous 

for a reason (they’re absolutely delicious) and sit alongside 

the likes of delicate cured trout with peas and elderflower 

from Holm's pretty vegetable garden, and delicious desserts 

made using local ingredients such as milk, honey and 

rosemary. 

There is exquisite attention to detail throughout both 

the menu and the building itself. Guests can relax amid the 

contemporary artwork and pleasing plaster walls of the 

restaurant or grab a seat at the bar and watch the chefs at 

work in the open kitchen. There’s a well-curated wine list, and 

the team are incredibly welcoming too. 

Unveiled in 2023, Holm features seven stylish, spacious 

en-suite bedrooms above the restaurant; a collaboration 

between Balfe and interior designer Decca Lang. Named 

after British trees, these soothing, cosy spaces feature soft 


‘Somerset might not be the first place that springs to mind when it comes 

to vineyards, but it should be. The year 2024 marks the 50th anniversary 

of the vines at Wraxall Vineyard... one of the oldest in the county.’ 

Egyptian cotton sheets, bathroom products by Haeckels and 

well-stocked minibars. Before setting off, Holm’s bountiful, 

multicourse breakfast is an unforgettably delicious treat. 

Somerset might not be the first place that springs to mind 

when it comes to vineyards, but it should be. The year 2024 

marks the 50th anniversary of the vines at Wraxall Vineyard. 

This small 15-acre site near Shepton Mallet is one of the 

oldest in the county. It currently produces a small selection of 

sparkling and still wines, including the refreshing (and awardwinning) 

Bacchus Reserve 2022. 

The vineyard’s new and impressive architecturally designed 

bar and restaurant hosts tours and tastings and serves a 

tempting menu of wine, small plates, and local cheese and 

charcuterie, as well as hosting regular supper clubs and events. 

It’s a modern yet snug space with a lovely terrace and breathtaking 

views across the vines and rolling countryside beyond. 

There’s also a smattering of chic self-catering cottages. 

The spacious and supremely comfortable Vine Cottage 

sleeps eight, making it ideal for a group trip. For something 

smaller, it doesn’t get much more romantic than Old Winery 

Cottage No.1, where you can admire views of the vines from 

bed and relax in front of the wood-burning stove with a glass 

of Somerset sparkling in hand. 


screens displaying live train times are softened by original 

brickwork, colourful tiles and antique milk bottles. 

The building was once a cheese factory, and The Newt 

has reinstated its former purpose; behind glass walls, diners 

can watch cheesemakers at work as they create a range 

of traditional cheese and yoghurt using fresh milk from 

the estate’s herd of water buffalo. The tasty results can be 

sampled in dishes such as mozzarella with olive oil, lemon 

zest, and focaccia; mushrooms with garlic and parsley 

At nearby Castle Cary station, The Creamery is a brandnew 

trackside restaurant and dairy that sits right next to the 

platform. It’s the creation of the nearby Newt in Somerset, 

and is testament to the estate’s knack for storytelling, eye 

for design and acute attention to detail. Interiors are a chic 

and playful celebration of the golden age of rail travel; retro 

posters adorn the staircase and leather-clad booths are 

reminiscent of a vintage first-class carriage, while modern 


‘ 

In nearby Batcombe, The Three Horseshoes is a picture-perfect 17th-century 

inn with cosy, rustic interiors and an idyllic village setting... 

’ 

hangop (a type of yoghurt cheese); and a halloumi-style 

Sutton Brue burger. Desserts are excellent too, especially the 

fresh buffalo-milk gelato with apple caramel sauce. Local 

cyder comes from The Newt while wines hail from its South 

African sister property, Babylonstoren. 

Less than a 10-minute drive away, the estate’s stunning, 

sprawling gardens offer further opportunity for field-to-fork 

feasting, and once you’ve had your fill you can sleep it 

off in one of the deeply luxurious hotel bedrooms. 

In nearby Batcombe, The Three Horseshoes is a pictureperfect 

17th-century inn with cosy, rustic interiors and an 

idyllic village setting, but it’s the food that really gets hearts 

racing. At the helm is celebrated chef and cookery writer, 

Margot Henderson. The copatron of Rochelle Canteen 

(one of London’s finest) in Shoreditch, Henderson is a keen 

advocate of nose-to-tail cookery, and the menu here proves 

it. Hearty, hefty dishes like rabbit pie and mince on toast sit 

alongside sophisticated small plates, such as langoustines, 


and local asparagus gribiche. You’ll want to save some 

room for one of the satisfying puddings, and perhaps some 

local cheese. There are five farmhouse-style bedrooms on 

the first floor of the pub, each one individually designed and 

decorated with antique furniture and eye-catching art, while 

generous super-king-sized beds provide welcome relief after 

indulging downstairs. 

Likened to London's Notting Hill, the small, trendy 

market town of Bruton is dotted with an array of aesthetically 

pleasing restaurants, cafes and shops. 

The restaurant here – a magnificent vaulted former 

chapel – is breathtaking. With towering lancet windows and 

a vast light installation twinkling overhead, this beautiful, 

buzzy space works well for a long brunch or a laid-back 

lunch or dinner. The chefs work closely with local organic 

producers, biodynamic growers, farmers and cheesemakers, 

and the pizzas from the bakery’s wood-fired oven are 

flavoursome – get one to takeaway and walk up to the Bruton 

Dovecote, if the weather allows. 

At The Chapel is a destination for locals and visitors 

alike, namely because of its in-house bakery that produces 

an array of unimaginably delicious, heavenly scented treats 

(don’t miss the doughnuts). 

The entire building – which is Grade II listed and dates 

back to the 17th century – is a stunning mix of old and new. 

There are eight bedrooms and each one is a masterclass in 

minimalism, as leaded windows and rustic wooden beams 

blend seamlessly with light wooden furniture and sleek 

marble bathrooms. The icing on the cake/doughnut? Fresh, 

flaky croissants are delivered to the bedrooms from the 

bakery each morning. 


‘Artfarm... has recently reopened Roth Bar here – a new site-specific artwork 

that doubles up as a fully functioning bar... this unique, quirky spot consists 

of salvaged materials and objects from local reclamation yards, including old 

tools, paint cans, calculators, and more.’ 

Just outside Bruton lies Hauser & Wirth’s Somerset 

gallery, where you’ll not only find world-leading 

contemporary art but yet more terrific food and drink. 

Artfarm (which also owns The Fife Arms in Scotland and 

London’s Mount St. Restaurant) has recently reopened Roth 

Bar here – a new site-specific artwork that doubles up as a 

fully functioning bar. Inspired by the history of Durslade Farm 

(on which it sits), this unique, quirky spot consists of salvaged 

materials and objects from local reclamation yards, including 

old tools, paint cans, calculators, and more. 

The drinks menu is similarly creative, using honey from 

the farm’s hives, flowers from the estate’s walled garden and 


seasonal foraged wild ingredients. If you’re feeling peckish, 

there are fresh pastries and sharing boards of local cheese 

and charcuterie on offer, as well as mouthwatering nibbles, 

such as buttermilk fried chicken, garden vegetable crudités 

and Cornish mussels. 

If you’re tempted to sample a few of the delectable Roth 

Bar cocktails or wines from Durslade Farm’s own vineyards, 

book Durslade Farmhouse; an extraordinary six-bedroom 

self-catering property just metres away, filled with 18thcentury 

charm and an array of modern art. Before heading 

off, pop into the impressive Farm Shop next door, where you 

can stock up on a few local treats and take a taste of this 

enticing county home with you. 

Or, for something more substantial, book a table at 

adjoining restaurant Da Costa – Artfarm’s brand-new Italian, 

which has an appetising menu of homemade pasta, risottos 

and daily specials cooked over fire in the centre of this stylish, 

rustic new space. 


stay explore experience 

Immerse yourself in Exeter’s 2,000 years of history making the most of your stay in 

this beautiful city. Indulge in the best of Devon’s food and drink and experience the 

city’s many unique highlights through its diverse and remarkable cultural scene. 

www.visitexeter.com 

Explore a historic village 

Visit Clovelly Court Gardens 

Eat and Stay at the Red Lion Hotel & Pub 

Meet the famous Clovelly donkeys 

Visit the Charles Kingsley Museum and Fisherman’s Cottage 

Watch a film on the history of the village 

Experience the working harbour and lifeboat station 

Take part in the Fun Trail (for your children) 

Aboard boat trips and explore glorious coastal walks 

See our great events online 2025 

Just off the A39 North Devon EX39 5TA Telephone: 01237 431781 E-mail: visitorcentre@clovelly.co.uk Book direct online at www.clovelly.co.uk

MORE SOMERSET SNACKS 

Teals 

Sat between Sparkford and Wincanton, Teals is a 

fantastic farm shop/food lover's paradise conveniently 

located on the A303. Stocked with all manner of 

delicious (mainly local and all responsibly sourced) treats, 

this stylish, carefully curated space houses an excellent 

cafe and restaurant (with a pretty outdoor courtyard), 

a brimming deli, a butchery, a lovely lifestyle store and 

more. Dont miss the tempting cheese counter. 

teals.co.uk 

Pip’s Railway Carriage 

Inspired by its own farm and produce, this friendly, quirky 

cafe serves excellent coffee, pleasing cakes and creative, 

flavour-filled small plates in a double-decker bus and 

marquee, and refurbished 1850s train-carriage booths. 

pipsrailwaycarriage.co.uk 

Horrell & Horrell 

Run by food and hospitality pros Jules and Steve, Horrell 

& Horrell’s dining experiences are Somerset’s hottest 

ticket. After an aperitif, an exquisite dinner is served 

on long, beautifully laid tables in a lovely barn. Expect 

a seasonal, mostly homegrown feast cooked over fire. 

Places are limited to 30 guests and sell out fast. 

horrellandhorrell.co.uk 

Mello View 

This stunning smallholding featured on Channel 4’s 

Grand Designs, host regular supper clubs in owners Ed 

and Vicky's beautiful barn with views across the kitchen 

garden and the Axe Valley beyond. Make a night of it and 

book their cosy cabin, The Gardener’s Shed. 

melloview.co.uk 

The Old Pharmacy 

This chic little wine bar, bistro and grocery store is housed 

in a 500-year-old building on Bruton High Street. A 

daily menu offers sharing plates made using homegrown 

ingredients, as well as organic wines and local cider. 

oldpharmacybruton.com 


Westcombe Dairy 

Somerset is home to many fantastic cheese producers, 

and Westcombe is one of the best. Pop into the dairy 

shop to pick up its full range of cheeses, plus charcuterie, 

beer, local cider, bread, flour and more. 

westcombedairy.com 

Beckford Canteen 

Set in a former Georgian greenhouse on bustling Bartlett 

Street, Beckford Canteen sits in one of the prettiest parts 

of Bath. Grab a sleek wooden seat in this lovely light 

and airy space and dig into sophisticated modern British 

dishes and great cocktails. 

beckfordcanteen.com 

A Rising Star! 

– 

Briar 

This September Great British Menu 2022 

finalist and former Head Chef at Glebe 

House in Devon, Sam Lomas, opens his first 

restaurant, Briar, on the former Osip site in 

Bruton. Connected to neighbouring Georgian 

townhouse hotel, Number One Bruton, Briar's 

menus and dishes feature hyperlocal produce 

from foraged ingredients and the growing 

seasons of the kitchen garden. 

numberonebruton.com/briar 

The Somerset Cider Brandy Company 

No visit to Somerset would be complete without a trip to 

Burrow Hill. Climb to the top for incredible 360-degree views 

before heading down to the characterful shop for a pint of 

cider and stroll among the orchards. 

somersetciderbrandy.com 

Osip 2.0 

This small, chic, Michelin-starred spot relocated in August 

to a 16th-century inn just outside Bruton. The new Osip 

restaurant elevates chef Merlin Labron-Johnson’s field-toplate 

philosophy and precise tasting menu experience – 

there are plans in the pipeline for four bedrooms too. 

osiprestaurant.com 

IMAGES © DAVE WATTS / ED SCHOFIELD / EMMA LEWIS / ED SCHOFIELD / ED REEVE / MAUREEN M EVANS / DAVID WATTS / JAKE EASTHAM 


RESTAURANT, FOOD-MARKET, BUTCHER, BAKERY, CHEESE COUNTER, 

BOTTLE-SHOP, GIFT SHOP, FOOD-TO-GO, DOG-JOG & B-CORP 

OPENING HOURS: 

8AM TILL 6PM. 

7 DAYS A WEEK. 

1 ORCHARD LANE, 

SOUTH CADBURY, 

YEOVIL, BA22 7FS 

WHAT’S ON 

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holburne.org 

holburne.

UNPLUGGING 

IN THE WILDS OF 

Northumberland 

British Travel Journal visits The Lord Crewe Arms. Located in a 

picturesque spot, featuring beautiful moorlands and vast dark skies, it's 

the ideal place to disconnect and learn more about this storied region 

Text by Amy Bonifas 

Nestled in the neat estate village of Blanchland, The Lord 

Crewe Arms is the ideal retreat if you’re craving true peace 

and quiet and want to explore the history and nature of this 

underrated area. 

Built in the 12th century, ‘The Crewe’ – as locals have 

affectionately named it – was once the abbot’s lodge and 

guesthouse for the monks of neighbouring Blanchland 

Abbey. The hotel’s gardens were the monks’ cloisters, and the 

ground-floor dining room was a great medieval feasting hall. 

That was until Henry VIII’s bold move to dissolve and close 

most of the monasteries across the country. 

The Bishop of Durham, Lord Crewe acquired the building 

in the 1700s before leaving his estates to the ‘Lord Crewe 

It’s not often you find a professional-grade telescope in 

your hotel room. But Northumberland is one of the leastpopulated 

regions of the UK – and also very low on light 

pollution – making it hands-down one of the best spots to 

stargaze the night away this autumn. 

The heather-strewn moors and fells of the North Pennines 

stretch beneath some of the darkest skies in the country, 

and lush pine forests thrive in the cleanest air. And if that 

isn’t reason enough to visit, it’s also home to one of the most 

unique and oldest hotels. 


Trustees’, and it became a place for local lead miners to enjoy 

a pint or two after a shift. 

Now, the flagstone floors and wrought-iron light fittings 

still create a monastic atmosphere, but our welcome is 

anything but.The bedrooms are cosy and stocked with 

homemade butter fudge, the jolly staff are poised with local 

recommendations, and there’s a roaring fire in just about 

every room. 

One of the key things that drew us here was the number 

of wild and wonderful experiences the hotel can arrange for 

you – from historic guided tours of nearby Hadrian’s Wall to 

stargazing evenings in the hotel’s garden. 

We opt for a local nature walk with ecologist and 

biology teacher Pippa Scott-Harden, who greets us 

glowingly in reception and whizzes us in her 4x4 across the 

moors – “There’s usually a roosting barn owl in one of our 

outbuildings. Let’s go check in.” 

The beauty of Blanchlands is undeniable. We venture 

deeper into the woodland and walk along the rushing River 

Derwent, where Pippa helps translate the array of morning 

birdsong. Her passion is infectious, and we stop to admire 

the rare and delicate wildflowers and the ancient native 

Scots pine trees – the only place in England you’ll find these 

towering red-tinged beauties. 

You can spot everything from roe deer to red squirrels here, 

but strangely, we’re most fascinated by the silvery, seaweedlike 

fronds clinging to some of the tree trunks. “I’m so glad you 

asked,” beams Pippa. “There are so many species of lichen 

here, and it’s only able to grow in places with low pollution.” 

She offers us a spyglass to take a closer look at a patch 

of bright-red lichen nicknamed ‘British Soldiers’ growing in a 

tiny gap within the dry stone wall. It feels like a long time since 

I’ve stopped to look this closely at nature and appreciate its 

minuscule beauty. 


We treat ourselves to a tea and fudge pitstop at the 

hotel. Our room is Penny Pie, in one of the newly revamped 

miners’ cottages. Decorated in rich, earthy tones with hints 

of tweed, the stone fireplace and a sumptuous roll-top bath 

will keep you toasty on chillier evenings. I love that the books 

are carefully curated, and we find everything from old-school 

ordinance maps to astrology guides. 

On our way to dinner, we stop to watch wagtails and 

sparrows hop around the garden as the light starts to fade. 

Already, I can see the stars peeking through. But first, we 

head to The Crypt. Unlike your average local, this pub is 

tucked away in a medieval vaulted chamber. The walls are 

lined with coat-of-arms shields and chalkboards offering 

chef’s snacks. Guests chatter away by candlelight, sipping 

on autumnal cocktails – the hotel even has its own ‘Crewe 

Brewe,’ a tasty golden bitter. 

You can eat in either The HiIyard Room, a flagstoned 

medieval hall adorned with old family oil portraits, or the 

refined Bishop’s Dining Room upstairs. We dress up a little 

for our first night and head up the stone staircase. North East 

native Chef Paul Johnson has worked alongside Michelinstarred 

chefs and once owned a pub in Northumberland, and 

the menu reflects this mix of high-end taste and humble, local 

ingredients. 

We try the North Sea torched mackerel with bitter 

watercress and zingy pickled fennel, and the Northumberland 

cheese soufflé – bubbling and golden. The venison haunch 

blushes pink on my plate, drizzled with red wine gravy and 

topped with blue cheese and hazelnuts. The wine list has 

some bold and unusual names, and we opt for a punchy 

Georgian red to pair with our rich choices. Afterwards, we 

peek into the cosy lounge next door and spot the original 

privy chamber hidden in the corner. 

One of the hotel staff reminds us to look up during 

the walk back, and we’re treated to countless stars and 

constellations shimmering against the blackest sky. We crane 

our necks to take it in – “So this is what the night sky actually 

looks like,” whispers my husband. 

For breakfast, it has to be the full Northumberland 

cooked breakfast with proper black pudding and a separate 

IMAGES © ADAM LYNK 


‘ 

We try the North Sea torched mackerel 

with bitter watercress and zingy pickled 

fennel, and the Northumberland cheese 

soufflé – bubbling and golden. 

’ 

bowl of beans (just how I like it). You can even order hot, 

buttered crumpets as a side – genius. It’s the perfect fuel for 

our 10km walk along Hadrian’s Wall, just a short drive away. 

We start at the Housesteads Roman Fort – the most complete 

of its kind in Britain – and follow in Roman footsteps to 

Sycamore Gap. We take a moment to imagine the great tree 

that once stood here. 

The satisfying ache in our legs is made all the sweeter 

knowing we can return to the hotel for dinner in the great 

hall. Our table is snuggled right next to the hearth, and 

we thaw out while tucking into pan-fried skate wing with 

lashings of brown butter and capers and a side of truffle 

Parmesan fries. We get chatting to fellow guests as their dogs 

nap happily on the stone floor. 

Before long, it’s time to check out, and it’s genuinely hard 

to say goodbye to this place. During our final walk, we visit 

Blanchland Abbey and head into the local craft shop to buy 

one of Pippa’s red squirrel lino prints (yes, she also happens 

to be a popular local artist). It’s possible to pack so much into 

a weekend here, and we return feeling recharged and freshly 

topped up with handy pub-quiz-friendly trivia. What more 

could you ask for? 

Rooms at the Lord Crewe Arms start from £164 per night 

on a B&B basis. Nature walks with Pippa Scott-Harden, 

stargazing evenings with a local expert and historic Hadrian’s 

Wall walks are available to book directly through the hotel; 

lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk 


CROSSWORD COMPETITION 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ACROSS 

1 Vehicles that keep moving (7,7) 

10 Czar's decree (5) 

11 North Welsh castle (9) 

12 Oberon's significant other (7) 

13 Fishermen's gear (7) 

14 They can be common or 

proper (5) 

16 Combined cycling, swimming, 

and running (9) 

19 Had a summit (9) 

20 Sail across the wind (5) 

22 With a twang (7) 

25 One who's not sure of the 

correct answer (7) 

27 Chew haricot in Westminster 

hotel (9) 

28 Insinuate (5) 

29 Wow! Let the fools sort out the 

undesirables (6,2,3,3) 

DOWN 

2 Painful sensation in the chest (9) 

3 Cinema chain (5) 

4 Rocky BOT? (9) 

5 South Cadbury diner (5) 

6 Carpet centre (9) 

7 Northumbrian islands (5) 

8 Begins knitting (5,2) 

9 The --- Arms, near Cromer (6) 

15 Boils (9) 

17 Huffy (9) 

18 Foreshadows (5,2,2) 

19 Distrustful and gloomy (7) 

21 Bay near Padstow hosting a 

porcine hotel (6) 

23 Scatter about (5) 

24 Brute in Gulliver's Travels (5) 

26 Buachaille --- Mòr, a Munro (5) 

 

Please enter your entries for a chance to win a Dorset Tea Discovery Box. 

Answers will be printed in the Spring 2025 Issue. 

Clues & Reviews 

FIRST THREE CORRECT ENTRIES WIN! 

Page-turners, puzzles and products we love 

FOR YOUR BEAUTY 

& BOOKSHELF 

1 Lochs & Legends – a Scotsman's Guide to the Heart of Scotland, by Andy McAlindon 

the Highlander, famous for playing John Grant in the TV series Outlander. From 

the majestic beauty of the wild Scottish landscape to the hidden traces of its 

history waiting to be uncovered in every town and village, Andy is enthralled by 

the country he is lucky enough to call home; harpercollins.co.uk 2 Bringing the 

luxury of a spa experience home to achieve radiant skin throughout the winter; 

Repair Night Progress Serum by Germaine de Capuccini, £135.95; germaine-decapuccini.co.uk 

3 Atomo is a striking handmade designer walnut-and-polishedbrass 

clock by Nomon, £119; thedesignchoice.com 

BE QUICK! FOR A DORSET TEA DISCOVERY BOX – The first three 

correct entrants received this issue will be gifted a Discovery Box 

worth over £15, including 40 teabags and seven different blends. 

FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN – Simply send a picture of your 

completed crossword, or email a list of the answers, to 

crossword@britishtraveljournal.com 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 18 | SUMMER 2024 

ACROSS 1 Mitre 4 Le manoir 10 Newbridge 11 Crewe 12 T-shirts 13 Al dente 

14 Squadron leader 18 Bearnaise sauce 22 On guard 24 Get warm 

26 On-off 27 Cleo laine 28 Deepness 29 Angel 

DOWN 1 Minutest 2 Townhouse 3 Error 5 Eyeball 6 Arcadians 7 Ocean 

8 Reeked 9 Adds to 15 Dorsal fin 16 Emulating 17 Germ cell 19 Abducts 

20 Signet 21 Lomond 23 Grove 25 Tulsa 


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THE HOME OF COUNTRY CLOTHING 

SCOTLAND AT ITS VERY BEST 

To request a copy of our Autumn/Winter catalogue please visit our website, 

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WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM

British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter2024

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