TravelWorld International Magazine Fall 2024
This magazine is written and photographed by North American Travel Journalist Association (NATJA) members.
This magazine is written and photographed by North American Travel Journalist Association (NATJA) members.
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Umbrella Alley, Quebec<br />
FALL <strong>2024</strong><br />
travelworld<br />
INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE<br />
The <strong>Magazine</strong> Written and Photographed by North American Travel Journalists Association Members
Letter from the Editor<br />
<strong>TravelWorld</strong> <strong>International</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
is the only magazine that showcases<br />
the member talents of the<br />
North American<br />
Travel Journalists Association<br />
FALL<br />
<strong>2024</strong><br />
travelworld<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
MAGAZINE<br />
Lobster, Lighthouses, & Luxury on Holland America Sharael Kolberg 6<br />
Much of the <strong>Fall</strong> Issue of <strong>TravelWorld</strong> <strong>International</strong><br />
<strong>Magazine</strong> is about people enjoying themselves.<br />
Whether traveling in luxury in America's<br />
northeastern waterways, or fulfilling a bucket list<br />
wish to see Africa, or just relaxing on beaches at<br />
Group Publisher:<br />
Publishers:<br />
VP Operations:<br />
Editor in Chief:<br />
Copy Editor:<br />
NATJA Publications<br />
Helen Hernandez &<br />
Bennett W. Root, Jr.<br />
Yanira Leon<br />
Joy Bushmeyer<br />
Omar Rodriguez<br />
Trail of Monsters in Sacro Bosco, Italy Jane Canapini 13<br />
BANFF: Indigenous History, Hot Springs & Cuisine VIDEO Dennis Cieri 18<br />
A Dream Vacatiopn to Tanzania & Zanzibar Cassandra Washington 22<br />
Îles de la Madeleine, Quebec Rosalind Stefanac 30<br />
luxury resorts (we've indluded some Spooky cocktails<br />
and recipes from the Jekyll Island Club in Georgia),<br />
NATJA travel writers are sharing their adventures<br />
and pleasures with you! From unexpected<br />
discoveries in Sacro Bosco, Italy to unique adventures<br />
in Florida, wonderful wines and cuisine in<br />
Colorado and California, plus the exceptional video<br />
presentation of the indigeneous history and modern<br />
development of Banff, we have a full composite of<br />
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS:<br />
Jane Canapini<br />
Dennis Cieri<br />
lauralee Dobbins<br />
Sharael Kolberg<br />
Nicole Leonetti<br />
Portia Olaughlin<br />
Janice Sakata-Schultze<br />
Rosalind Stefanac<br />
Kathryn Wagner<br />
Cassandra Washington<br />
6<br />
13<br />
interesting material for everyone! Sit back, read,<br />
enjoy, learn some things, and pehaps find inspiration<br />
for your next adventure!<br />
DMO CONTRIBUTOR:<br />
Visit Indiana<br />
18<br />
Joy Bushmeyer,<br />
Editor in Chief<br />
Editorial /Advertising Offices:<br />
<strong>TravelWorld</strong> <strong>International</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
3579 E. Foothill Blvd., #744<br />
Pasadena, CA 91107<br />
Phone: (626) 376-9754 Fax: (626) 628-1854<br />
www.travelworldmagazine.com<br />
2<br />
Cover Photo<br />
Cover photo provided by Sharael Kolberg<br />
Sharael Kolberg enjoyed an all encompassing tour<br />
from Boston to Quebec on Holland America, basking<br />
in luxury as she traveled to Bar Harbor, Maine, Novia<br />
Scotia, Prince Edward Island, the Gulf of St. Lawerence,<br />
and ultimately Quebec, where she happened across this<br />
charming and picturesque little alley of umbrellas!<br />
Volume <strong>2024</strong>.03 <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2024</strong>. Copyright ©<strong>2024</strong> by<br />
NATJA Publications, Inc. All rights reserved.<br />
Reproduction in whole or in part without written<br />
permission is prohibited. Advertising rates and<br />
information sent upon request. Acceptance of<br />
advertising in <strong>TravelWorld</strong> <strong>International</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
in no way constitutes approval or endorsement by<br />
NATJA Publications, Inc., nor do products or services<br />
advertised. NATJA Publications and <strong>TravelWorld</strong><br />
<strong>International</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> reserve the right to reject<br />
any advertising. Opinions expressed by authors<br />
are their own and not necessarily those of Travel<br />
World <strong>International</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> or NATJA<br />
Publications. <strong>TravelWorld</strong> <strong>International</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
reserves the right to edit all contributions for clarity<br />
and length, as well as to reject any material submitted,<br />
and is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts.<br />
This periodical’s name and logo along with the<br />
various titles and headings therein, are trademarks<br />
of NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.<br />
22 30<br />
3
FALL<br />
<strong>2024</strong><br />
travelworld<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
MAGAZINE<br />
My Perfect Weekend in Cambria Nicole Leonetti 34<br />
Family Selection at Grand Palladium Kantenah Resort Janice Sakata-Schultze 38<br />
5 Unique Florida <strong>Fall</strong> Adventures Portia Olaughlin 42<br />
Sipping the Sun in Colorado's Wine Country Kathryn Wagner 46<br />
Gilded Age Luxury at the Jekyll Island Club Lauralee Dobbins 50<br />
34<br />
38<br />
46<br />
42<br />
50<br />
4<br />
5
Day 1: Departure from Boston<br />
Lobster, Lighthouses<br />
After boarding the Holland America ship in Boston, I settled into my<br />
stateroom with a private veranda and separate seating area. The room<br />
was designed for comfort and relaxation, featuring modern amenities,<br />
elegant decor, and breathtaking ocean views. The cabin was the perfect<br />
size, with just enough space for my husband and me.<br />
and Luxury on<br />
Holland America<br />
from<br />
Boston to Quebec<br />
Story and Photos by Sharael Kolberg<br />
Fairmont Copley Plaza in Boston<br />
Pre-Cruise Luxury Stay:<br />
Fairmont Copley Plaza, Boston<br />
Arriving in Boston the night before my<br />
cruise departure, I stayed at the iconic<br />
Fairmont Copley Plaza, conveniently<br />
located near the Boston cruise terminal.<br />
This exquisite hotel, situated in the heart of<br />
Boston, provided the perfect blend of luxury,<br />
comfort, and historic charm to kickstart my<br />
cruise adventure. The seamless transition<br />
from the hotel to the ship ensured that my<br />
vacation began with ease and elegance.<br />
Holland America Line guest room with balcony<br />
On-Board Activities<br />
As the ship set sail, I dove into the wide array of activities offered on board.<br />
Holland America provided opportunities for enrichment and relaxation. I<br />
attended educational workshops, explored art exhibitions, unwound in the<br />
spa, and worked up a sweat in the fitness center. The spa offered a variety of<br />
rejuvenating treatments, from massages to facials, allowing me to unwind<br />
while onboard. Some of my favorite activities were playing board games and<br />
taking in the views from the Crow's Nest or reading a book in the library.<br />
6<br />
Cruising is one of my favorite ways to explore the world, blending relaxation, adventure, and<br />
discovery into one seamless experience. My 7-day cruise with Holland America from Boston to<br />
Quebec offered an unforgettable journey through the picturesque landscapes of the northeastern<br />
United States and eastern Canada. This journey was filled with fascinating ports, a plethora of<br />
onboard activities, exquisite dining options, and top-notch entertainment.<br />
View of the Holland America Line Zuiderdam ship<br />
Breakfast at Oak Long Bar + Kitchen<br />
at Fairmont Copley Plaza in Boston<br />
Sharael dressing up for dinner<br />
aboard the Zuiderdam<br />
ON-BOARD DINING<br />
Throughout the cruise, I<br />
indulged in exquisite dining<br />
experiences. Holland America<br />
is renowned for its exceptional<br />
culinary offerings. The main<br />
dining room served a diverse<br />
menu, featuring both traditional<br />
favorites and international<br />
cuisine. Specialty dining venues<br />
included Italian, steakhouse,<br />
and Asian fusion restaurants,<br />
each offering a unique culinary<br />
experience. I particularly<br />
enjoyed dining at the Pinnacle<br />
Grill and the Canaletto. The<br />
food and ambiance were<br />
impressive.<br />
7
Day 2: Bar Harbor, Maine<br />
The first port of call was the charming town of<br />
Bar Harbor, Maine, on Mount Desert Island. This<br />
destination is a delight for nature enthusiasts and<br />
those seeking a laid-back coastal experience.<br />
Shore Excursion:<br />
Acadia National Park &<br />
Panoramic Bar Harbor<br />
I chose the “Acadia National Park & Panoramic Bar<br />
Harbor” excursion which was perfect for immersing<br />
myself in the park's breathtaking landscapes,<br />
including a visit to Cadillac Mountain where we<br />
stopped for a short hike. We then took a scenic drive<br />
along the Park Loop Road to admire the stunning<br />
coastline and take in the breathtaking views of the<br />
Atlantic Ocean.<br />
Sharael and her husband Jeff hiking in Acadia National Park<br />
Hop on/Hop off bus tour in Halifax<br />
Sharael with volunteer reinactment<br />
guards at Halifax Citadel National<br />
Historic Site<br />
Day 3: Halifax, Nova Scotia<br />
The next port stop was in Halifax, Nova Scotia, a vibrant city with a rich maritime history. Its charming waterfront offers a<br />
blend of historical sites and modern attractions.<br />
Peggy's Cove and Double-Decker Hop-On, Hop-Off<br />
Eateries along Halifax Waterfront<br />
Shore excursion options included city tours, coastal hikes, and visits to the Fairview Lawn Cemetery, where many Titanic<br />
victims are buried. I chose the "Peggy's Cove and Double-Decker Hop-On, Hop-Off." A visit to the iconic Peggy's Cove, famous<br />
for its picturesque lighthouse perched on a rugged granite shoreline, was a highlight. Afterward, the bus was a convenient<br />
way to explore the city, allowing me to hop on and off at leisure to explore historic sites and local attractions, such as the<br />
Halifax Citadel National Historic Site, and wandering around the Queen's Marque downtown, with shops, upscale waterfront<br />
restaurants, and public art.<br />
Sharael hiking in Acadia National Park<br />
View of Acadia National Park<br />
View of Peggy's Cove shoreline<br />
Peggy's Cove lighthouse<br />
Day 4: Sydney, Nova Scotia<br />
8<br />
Stewman's Oceanfront Lobster Pound<br />
Restaurant in Bar Harbor<br />
Sharael with decorative buoys outside of Stewman's Oceanfront<br />
Lobster Pound Restaurant in Bar Harbor<br />
Wooden carving<br />
of fisherman at<br />
SouWester restaurant<br />
in Peggy's Cove<br />
St. Johns Anglican Church in<br />
Peggy's Cove<br />
The next port stop was in Sydney, Nova Scotia, a<br />
captivating port with a rich Celtic heritage, lively culture,<br />
and scenic beauty. Exploring the historic heart of Sydney<br />
and taking in the vibrant local music scene was delightful.<br />
A must-visit destination is the Cape Breton Highlands,<br />
renowned for its dramatic landscapes and the famous<br />
Cabot Trail. Sydney is home to the Alexander Graham Bell<br />
National Historic Site, as well as the world's largest fiddle.<br />
9
Cruising by a picturesque lighthouse on<br />
our way to Baddeck<br />
Baddeck on Your Own<br />
I attended the "Baddeck on Your Own" excursion, which provided the freedom<br />
to explore this charming town at my own pace. Baddeck is the gateway to the<br />
Cape Breton Highlands, and I enjoyed visiting local shops and museums and<br />
savoring delicious local cuisine. This excursion allowed me to immerse myself<br />
in the local culture and experience the warmth of the people in this region.<br />
Day 5: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island<br />
On-Board Entertainment<br />
Evenings on the ship were filled with entertainment<br />
options. I enjoyed live music performances, comedy<br />
shows, and Broadway-style productions in the ship's<br />
theater. The casino offered some gaming excitement,<br />
while the lounges provided a more relaxed atmosphere<br />
for sipping cocktails and socializing. I especially<br />
enjoyed dancing to the lively band at the Orange Party.<br />
Day 6: Cruising the Gulf of St. Lawrence<br />
On the sixth day, the ship cruised the Gulf of St. Lawrence, providing<br />
ample time to relax and take in the scenic views. Holland America<br />
offered a wide range of onboard activities to keep passengers<br />
entertained, from culinary workshops and wine tastings to live music<br />
performances and fitness classes. I also took advantage of the ship's<br />
many amenities, including the casino, onboard shops, and the library.<br />
The historic Baddeck Courthouse built in 1889<br />
Stopping in the port town of Charlottetown, the capital of Prince Edward<br />
Island, was charming. It is a place of historical significance and natural beauty.<br />
Known as the birthplace of Canada, I explored the city's rich history, visited the<br />
Anne of Green Gables Museum, and strolled along the picturesque waterfront.<br />
Shore Excursions<br />
Holland America offers a range of shore excursions, including visits to the<br />
Green Gables Heritage Place, exploring the island's stunning beaches, and<br />
culinary experiences that showcase Prince Edward Island's famous mussels<br />
and lobster. I did a private tour that included stops at Prince Edward Island<br />
Preserve Company (amazing homemade jams!), lunch at Fisherman’s Wharf<br />
Lobster Suppers, Green Gables Heritage Place walkthrough, Cavendish Scenic<br />
Look Out, and drinks and snacks at Fin Folk Food.<br />
Day 7: Quebec<br />
The journey concluded with our last port stop in the historic city of Quebec, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a treasure trove<br />
of Canadian history and culture. I explored the charming Old Town, walked along the romantic Dufferin Terrace Street, strolled<br />
through the National Battlefields Park and Plains of Abraham, shopped at the quaint shops along Grande-Allée and Le Quartier<br />
Petit-Champlain, took photos in front of the Hotel du Parliament, had the most epic views of the city for the Observatoire de la<br />
Capitale, and grabbed a cocktail in the Place Royale public square. If you're in Quebec in the evening, I highly recommend the<br />
Onhwa' lumina, an immersive sensory experience.<br />
Sharael with view of Baddeck Harbor Waterway<br />
Eateries on Prince Edward Island<br />
Colorful Quebec flags on<br />
Chez-soi la Chine restaurant<br />
Beautiful Notre-Dame de Québec<br />
Basilica-Cathedral in Quebec<br />
Umbrella Alley in Quebec<br />
Walking Tour of Old Quebec<br />
10<br />
Eating poutine on Prince Edward Island<br />
Historic home of the author of "Anne of Green Gables"<br />
While there, I took a “Walking Tour of Old Quebec,”<br />
which was the perfect way to immerse myself in the<br />
city's unique charm and learn the history from a<br />
local. My guide provided fascinating insights into the<br />
city’s rich history and culture as we explored iconic<br />
landmarks.<br />
Historic rampart walls in Quebec<br />
11
Afternoon Tea at<br />
Fairmont Le Château<br />
Frontenac<br />
On the Trail of Monsters and More in Italy<br />
Fairmont Le Château Frontenac hotel,<br />
Quebec<br />
Classic afternoon tea at the Fairmont<br />
Le Château Frontenac hotel, Quebec<br />
To make my visit to Quebec<br />
even more memorable,<br />
I indulged in a refined<br />
experience with afternoon<br />
tea at the iconic Fairmont Le<br />
Château Frontenac. This stately<br />
and historic hotel, perched atop<br />
the city’s Old Town, offered<br />
a picturesque setting for an<br />
afternoon of relaxation and<br />
indulgence. With breathtaking<br />
views of the St. Lawrence River<br />
and an ambiance that exudes<br />
timeless elegance, Fairmont Le<br />
Château Frontenac provided<br />
the perfect backdrop for my tea<br />
experience.<br />
Story and Photos by Jane Canapini<br />
In travel, as in life, serendipity is a wonderful thing. What may start out as one adventure to explore<br />
a specific destination or attraction can lead to a completely different and unexpected discovery. This<br />
is exactly what happened on a day trip to visit one of Italy’s mysterious hidden gems, Sacro Bosco, an<br />
enigmatic 16th-century garden of monumental stone sculptures located about an hour outside of Rome.<br />
The garden was a delight to explore, but it was after speaking with a local that our road trip took an<br />
unplanned turn and led us to a completely unexpected surprise nearby.<br />
Extended Stay at<br />
Auberge St-Antoine<br />
Relais & Châteaux<br />
12<br />
Sunflowers at Isle de Bacchus<br />
Winery on the Île d'Orléans<br />
(Island of Orleans) in Quebec<br />
View of Quebec from the ship<br />
Visit to Ile d'Orléans<br />
One of my favorite parts of the trip<br />
was a private tour of Ile d'Orléans, a<br />
small island off Quebec City. While<br />
on the island, we visited Cassis Mona<br />
& Filles’ beautiful vineyard and tasted<br />
their artisanal blackcurrant vanilla soft<br />
serve. We also stopped at Tigidou Jam<br />
Factory, known for its innovative jam<br />
combinations, such as strawberry basil,<br />
and explored the St-Pierre vineyard.<br />
I extended my time in Quebec<br />
with an overnight stay at the<br />
luxurious Auberge St-Antoine<br />
Relais & Châteaux. This<br />
exquisite boutique hotel is<br />
renowned for its impeccable<br />
service, attention to detail,<br />
and distinctive charm.<br />
Located in the heart of Old<br />
Quebec, this historic property<br />
seamlessly blends modern<br />
comforts with the character<br />
of a bygone era. Each room<br />
is uniquely designed and<br />
showcases a collection of<br />
artifacts and treasures from<br />
Quebec’s rich history. The hotel<br />
is partially a museum with<br />
artifacts displayed throughout.<br />
Brunch at Chez Muffy was so<br />
impressive. Not only was the<br />
farm-to-fork food delicious,<br />
but the restaurant is in a<br />
beautifully restored historic<br />
maritime warehouse.<br />
Bomarzo is a charming hilltop village in Lazio about an hour from Rome<br />
13 13
SACRO BOSCO,<br />
THE ‘SACRED WOOD’<br />
What could be more intriguing than<br />
a one-of-a-kind Renaissance Garden<br />
set in a forest and filled with giant<br />
mythological gods and monsters<br />
carved from the very rock of the<br />
landscape itself? Add in the fact that<br />
these woods and their creatures lay<br />
hidden for almost 400 years before<br />
being rediscovered in the 1940s, and<br />
the story behind the Sacro Bosco<br />
garden has all the makings of an<br />
Indiana Jones film.<br />
BOMARZO<br />
Sacro Bosco is located at the foot of<br />
Bomarzo, a charming hilltop village<br />
about an hour’s drive from Rome.<br />
Like so many of these villages that<br />
seem to sprout atop the volcanic rock<br />
outcroppings so common in this part<br />
of Italy, Bomarzo is a hodge-podge<br />
of hilly cobblestone streets and little<br />
nooks and crannies tucked between<br />
characteristic stone buildings. One of<br />
the largest buildings here is a grand<br />
palazzo that was home to Duke Pier<br />
Francesco Orsini, an eccentric 16thcentury<br />
prince and ex-soldier who<br />
made this place a refuge from the<br />
horrors of war he had experienced<br />
in the papal armies. This emotional<br />
fallout may also have been the initial<br />
inspiration for his garden: a way to<br />
escape the darkness and trauma of<br />
battle by creating a mystical world<br />
populated with allegorical figures and<br />
imaginative sculptures.<br />
A temple built to honour Orsini’s wife now functions as a<br />
mausoleum for Giovanni Bettini and his wife<br />
The monumental Proteus Glaucus, a<br />
fisherman transformed into a sea god in<br />
the “Park of the Monsters”<br />
A massive stone dragon fights off two lions<br />
A larger-than-life stone<br />
Hercules rips apart Cacus the<br />
fire-breathing giant<br />
Satyrs and goddesses line the<br />
forested paths of Sacro Bosco<br />
But it was after Orsini’s beautiful wife<br />
Giulia Farnese died prematurely in<br />
1560 that Sacro Bosco became an<br />
expression of his profound grief as<br />
well, and a way for Orsini to honor<br />
his wife while exorcising his other<br />
demons.<br />
Bomarzo’s character-filled cobblestone streets<br />
Furia the she-viper, one of Sacro Bosco’s<br />
Orcus, God of the underworld, lures visitors inside<br />
mythological creatures<br />
under its ‘Ogni Pensiero Vola’ inscription<br />
1416<br />
15
MONSTERS, MYTHOLOGY, AND<br />
MORE<br />
Sacro Bosco is unlike any other Italian Renaissance<br />
Garden of its time. Here there are no formal hedges or<br />
borders, no pruned plantings, structured walkways, or<br />
classical symmetry. Visitors follow a path that seems<br />
to meander between naturally forested grottoes and<br />
open spaces, following the topography of the land. And<br />
at every turn, there is a fantastical figure or structure<br />
carved from the volcanic stone (‘tufo’) found in this<br />
region of Italy.<br />
Sphinxes and satyrs flank the paths, and grotesque shevipers<br />
with snake-like appendages recline under trees. A<br />
pair of mythological titans wrestle in a violent struggle<br />
at the foot of a stone staircase, while nearby a giant<br />
dragon fends off an attack by lions. A rearing Pegasus<br />
tops the center of a long-dead fountain, beside a grotto<br />
where a sea creature opens its huge jaws to swallow a<br />
tortoise ridden by a winged Nike.<br />
The most impressive of all these sculptures is the giant<br />
face of Orcus, the god of the underworld, whose gaping<br />
maw is both menacing and mesmerizing, tempting the<br />
visitor to enter and see what lies within its depths. It’s<br />
no wonder many refer to this garden as the Park of the<br />
Monsters.<br />
What Orsini hoped to communicate with Sacro Bosco<br />
is as enigmatic as the message carved above the mouth<br />
of Orcus: “Ogni Pensiero Vola” or "Every thought flies".<br />
Is this Duke Orsini’s caution that thoughts spoken aloud<br />
here will echo for all to hear? Or is it an invitation to<br />
each visitor to free their mind and simply interpret the<br />
garden the way they see fit? No one will ever know,<br />
because there are no written records left behind by<br />
Orsini to explain his vision.<br />
A GARDEN THAT LAY<br />
HIDDEN FOR 400 YEARS<br />
The pagan and demonic nature of some of Sacro<br />
Bosco’s carved figures would not have sat well with the<br />
Vatican in the late 1500s. This was probably part of the<br />
reason why after Orsini’s death in 1583, his garden was<br />
abandoned and taken over by the woods in which it lay,<br />
where it would remain hidden for almost 400 years.<br />
The moss-covered god Neptune lounges in the<br />
woods of Sacro Bosco<br />
A giant sculpted face lies along the paths of Sacro Bosco<br />
The author caught in the jaws of Orcus<br />
SALVADOR DALI REVEALS<br />
A SURREAL GEM<br />
Sacro Bosco only came to light in<br />
modern times thanks to a high-profile<br />
visit by surrealist Salvador Dali,<br />
who visited the site in 1938, posing<br />
with these giant carvings on a wellpublicized<br />
newsreel. The surreal nature<br />
of the garden obviously appealed to the<br />
artist, and after Dali’s visit, a real estate<br />
entrepreneur (Giovanni Bettini) saw<br />
the opportunity for tourism, and he and<br />
his wife began an extensive, 20-year<br />
restoration of the 7-acre grounds.<br />
Decades later, Sacro Bosco is still a<br />
privately run, well-organized tourist<br />
attraction. Yet this unusual destination<br />
remains largely unknown and off the<br />
radar of most visitors and even many<br />
Italians, a rare treat in a country that<br />
attracts tens of millions of visitors every<br />
year.<br />
A SERENDIPITOUS LUNCH<br />
CONVERSATION<br />
Sacro Bosco may have been what<br />
brought us to Bomarzo, but it turned<br />
out there was another surprise in store<br />
for us nearby, which we heard about by<br />
chance after returning to the village for<br />
lunch and chatting with Roberto Re, the<br />
owner of a local restaurant.<br />
Re is a transplant from Rome, and after<br />
relocating to Bomarzo, he dove into the<br />
local history and lore, including a story<br />
he shared with us about an unusual<br />
artifact located in a nearby town: a<br />
Moai, one of the monolithic human<br />
figures famously found on Easter Island.<br />
“A Moai? Here, in Italy?” I asked,<br />
not sure whether my understanding<br />
of Italian was as good as I thought.<br />
“Absolutely!” was Roberto’s response,<br />
and he went on to explain.<br />
A MADE-FOR-ITALY MOAI<br />
In the late 1980s, an Italian journalist<br />
named Mino D’Amato was working on<br />
a television program entitled ‘In Search<br />
of the Ark’ that focused on the need for<br />
restoration of the Easter Island Moai.<br />
He was searching for a type of local<br />
stone with a composition like those of<br />
the statues on Easter Island, in order to<br />
demonstrate how the original statues<br />
were carved. The volcanic tufo that<br />
formed the foundations of the town<br />
of Vittorchiano, a hilltop town not far<br />
from Bomarzo, was a close match.<br />
A huge chunk of the material was<br />
sourced from the area and sculpting<br />
of a 6-metre-high Moai began. The<br />
work was executed by 11 members<br />
of the Atan family, originally from<br />
Rapa Nui, some of whom could<br />
trace their ancestry back fourteen<br />
generations. These artists used the<br />
same construction techniques and<br />
Maori tools as their ancestors, creating<br />
a faithful reproduction of the originals,<br />
with stylized, elongated facial features,<br />
exaggerated earlobes, and hands folded<br />
over the torso. For four weeks, Italian<br />
television covered their progress until<br />
the statue was complete when it was<br />
raised in Vittorchiano as part of a<br />
sacred “Kuranto” ceremony.<br />
A MUST-DO DETOUR<br />
Once we learned that Vittorchiano was<br />
only 10 minutes away from Bomarzo,<br />
we knew we had to add this to our road<br />
trip itinerary before heading back to<br />
Rome.<br />
Arriving in Vittorchiano at the<br />
overlook on Via della Teverina, it<br />
was more than a little surreal to see<br />
a Moai statue standing proudly here,<br />
14,500 kilometers [9,000 miles] away<br />
from Easter Island. When setting out<br />
that morning to explore a garden of<br />
500-year-old giant stone carvings, we<br />
would never have expected to find<br />
ourselves standing beside the only<br />
example of a Moai outside of Easter<br />
Island as well.<br />
Serendipity may have led us to this<br />
place, but perhaps the events that<br />
unfolded on this trip weren’t as<br />
disconnected as we thought: maybe<br />
following our noses from a mysterious<br />
Renaissance Garden to discover a Moai<br />
statue was the perfect manifestation<br />
of Sacro Bosco’s message of ‘Ogni<br />
Pensiero Vola’. By letting our thoughts<br />
and imagination ‘fly’, we had landed<br />
somewhere completely unexpected<br />
and discovered something wonderful<br />
and surprising in the process.<br />
I THINK ORSINI WOULD<br />
APPROVE.<br />
Vittorchiano is home to the only<br />
Moai outside of Easter Island<br />
(2 others are in the British Museum)<br />
16<br />
17
VISIT BANFF<br />
Explore 14,000 Years<br />
of Indigenous History,<br />
Hot Springs, and Hearty Cuisine<br />
The Sacred Bow Valley<br />
There is an Irish saying that goes Tir gan teanga, tir gan anam.<br />
That means a country without a language is a country without a<br />
soul. As you look at the mountains that surround the Bow Valley<br />
in the Canadian Rockies, you realize that these mountains have a<br />
soul. People who used to live where Banff is today spoke different<br />
languages--indigenous languages.<br />
The human history in this valley goes back some 14,000 years,<br />
during which five hundred generations of indigenous people used<br />
this valley. The Stoney Dakotas lived and traveled around this<br />
area for thousands of years before the first Europeans ever set foot<br />
here. Some did live here year-round but a lot of different groups<br />
of people would just travel in and out of the area. For them, many<br />
mountains were sacred—for example, the Minnie Fruin Mountain<br />
means the spiritual mountain or the sacred mountain. It is a<br />
spiritual mountain in part because of its hot springs. Hot springs<br />
are seen as a gift from the gods, and that's why it is known as the<br />
spiritual mountain. That’s why the natives believed Bow Valley was<br />
a spiritual, sacred place.<br />
In those early days, as anywhere in the world, natural springs were<br />
a potent part of nature, and those spots were healing spots. The<br />
Stoney Dakotas would come here in the summertime and would<br />
set up teepees in the area. The men would go into the hot springs<br />
cave using a rope made from deer hide. The men would perform a<br />
ceremony in the cave, while the women would harvest berries.<br />
Minnie Fruin Mountain - Minnie Fruin Mountain<br />
means spiritual mountain. There is a lot less<br />
snow on the mountain because that is where the<br />
hot springs are. If you live in a teepee and it is<br />
freezing a hot spring is a gift from the gods.<br />
People used to soak in the pool, it was<br />
considered spiritual and healing. It is no<br />
longer possible to soak in the pool.<br />
The area is beautiful and<br />
taking a walk with a guide is<br />
highly recommended, you<br />
will learn so much about the<br />
indigenous culture and the<br />
wonderous nature of this<br />
special part of the world.<br />
CLICK HERE<br />
FOR VIDEO<br />
Story, Photos, and Video by Dennis Cieri<br />
18 19
The Railroad<br />
Arrives<br />
In the 1800s different groups of<br />
Europeans started coming here. Some<br />
were simply exploring the continent,<br />
trying to find a passageway through<br />
these mountains to the Pacific coast.<br />
Others were interested in settling. Then<br />
in 1867, the northern colonies of Nova<br />
Scotia, New Brunswick, and Quebec<br />
joined together with Ontario to create<br />
Canada. Those colonies only represented<br />
about five percent of the land. Canada’s<br />
first prime minister Sir John McDonnell<br />
wanted to see the country expand its<br />
territory, building a larger Canada. He<br />
reached out to British Columbia and<br />
asked if they would like to join this new<br />
country. Anthony Musgrave, Governor of<br />
the United Colonies of Vancouver Island<br />
and British Columbia said yes but had<br />
a couple of conditions, which included<br />
a trans-continental railway had to be<br />
built. McDonnel agreed to that and work<br />
started on the trans-Canada railway.<br />
In 1883 the railway reached Bow Valley.<br />
Winter was coming, so work came to a<br />
stop. Most men went back home, but three<br />
railway workers decided they were going<br />
to spend the winter in Bow Valley. One<br />
cold morning the men saw steam rising<br />
from one of the mountains. They were<br />
curious they hadn't seen the steam before,<br />
so the men scrambled up and came to a<br />
vent. One of the men took a deep breath<br />
and described it as a chimney from hell.<br />
A quiet evening stroll through downtown Banff and<br />
the mountain air is the perfect way to end the day and<br />
unwind before curling up for a good night’s sleep.<br />
Walking down the streets of Banff is a refreshing escape from<br />
modern life and a step into nature. You never know who you will<br />
meet walking down the street. Just don’t get too close.<br />
Waking up in the Royal Hotel means a short walk to the<br />
Brazen Restaurant and a sumptuous breakfast before<br />
venturing out to another day of adventure and fun.<br />
After a long day of exploring the woods around Banff enjoy a<br />
Hearty Meat and Potato meal in the Brazen Restaurant<br />
Don’t be afraid to try new things. The Chef at the<br />
Brazen gets creative with dishes, and they are<br />
delicious and a delight to the tongue.<br />
Banff Cuisine<br />
Located inside the historic Mount Royal<br />
Hotel downtown on Banff Avenue, the Brazen<br />
restaurant pays tribute to the mavericks and<br />
laborers who built this town. Honoring the<br />
spirit of Banff ’s mountaineers and explorers, it<br />
serves seasonal Canadian fare with a side of oldworld<br />
charm and contemporary cocktails. The<br />
Brazen’s head chef Dan Jiricka considers dining<br />
as an experience, where presentation counts<br />
as much as the taste. With its great food, lush<br />
nature, and enigmatic mystic, Banff is a perfect<br />
getaway all year round-- skiing in the winter<br />
and hiking in the summer.<br />
20<br />
Inside the cave, the average temperature<br />
is between 31 and 34 Celsius, so roughly<br />
87 to 95 Fahrenheit. During a harsh cold<br />
winter, this would be a paradise. In the<br />
cave and the adjacent hot springs, you<br />
can see algae and bacteria floating as well<br />
as snails. After a visit to the hot springs,<br />
exploring the caves is a good way to build<br />
an appetite leading to where to eat.<br />
The hole in the mountain that the original explorers found<br />
that led into the caves. The indigenous people used to lower<br />
themselves in the caves with ropes and perform ceremonies<br />
thanking the spirits for the warmth of the springs.<br />
The Brazen has delicious vegetarian options to keep<br />
everyone in your group happy.<br />
Stopped smoking don’t worry the Brazen<br />
is a smoke-free restaurant these cigarettes<br />
are sweet and the ashtray is edible.<br />
21
The Ngorongoro Crater is a World Heritage Site<br />
and seasonable home to over 25,000 animals.<br />
A Dream Vacation to<br />
Tanzania and Zanzibar<br />
Story and Photos by Cassandra Washington<br />
Baobab trees are spotted<br />
throughout the Tarangire<br />
savannah. The trees can<br />
live up to 1,000 to 3,000<br />
years.<br />
Asante Sana Tanzania and Zanzibar, thank you for a<br />
fantastic experience. The two countries have been on my<br />
bucket list. Years ago, I saw a photo of a woman walking<br />
along the shore of the Indian Ocean. The beautiful colors<br />
of her dress and head scarf and the turquoise water drew<br />
me in. The photo whetted my curiosity. Where is this, I<br />
wondered? Then I saw the word Zanzibar and immediately<br />
thought, "One day, I will visit this place."<br />
A jeep pulled up to the hotel.<br />
We met our guide, Jeremiah,<br />
and our safari mates, a<br />
newlywed couple from<br />
Switzerland. The size of our<br />
duffel bags was configured<br />
and loaded in the back of the<br />
jeep. Jeremiah took a photo<br />
of the duffel bag puzzle, so<br />
he knew how to reload after<br />
each lodging stop. Know how<br />
to pack light! We were on our<br />
way.<br />
Jeremiah drove us through Arusha and<br />
then to Tarangire National Park. After a<br />
two-hour drive, we saw a savanna filled<br />
with baobab trees and home to the largest<br />
elephant herds in northern Tanzania. We<br />
were excited to see wildlife up close and<br />
personal. We bounced around in the jeep<br />
because the park's roads were unpaved<br />
and bumpy. All of us were surprised—<br />
or maybe shocked—by the rough ride.<br />
Jeremiah laughed at us and said, "This<br />
is what you booked." We laughed and<br />
shook our heads in agreement.<br />
The dream vacation became a reality last summer.<br />
Safari and sand are a beautiful combination. After a<br />
long day of flying, we landed in Kilimanjaro and met<br />
our driver. He drove us to Arusha, where we spent<br />
one night. However, we were happy to take a long,<br />
hot shower and sit down for dinner. There was only<br />
time for breakfast the following day, and then we<br />
were off for the first safari adventure.<br />
Tarangire National Park<br />
During our rough ride, we spotted<br />
elephants, giraffes, buffalo, gazelles,<br />
and other antelopes. After seeing a<br />
warthog, we began naming different<br />
animals by the Lion King characters.<br />
Next, we found a quiet spot to eat<br />
lunch in the jeep. After lunch, we<br />
searched for as many Big Five as<br />
possible. Around 4:00 p.m., we left<br />
Tarangire National Park and headed<br />
to Lake Burunge Tented Lodge for a<br />
one-night stay.<br />
Herds of elephants are<br />
seen throughout Tarangire<br />
National Park. It has the<br />
largest population of<br />
elephants in Tanzania.<br />
22<br />
23
Day one of the safari was complete, and we spent the night at the Burunge<br />
Tented Lodge. The bungalows sit in the Tarangire savannah.<br />
Tarangire National Park is a<br />
great location to see giraffes,<br />
one of the Big 5 to look for<br />
during a safari.<br />
T<br />
he lodge, located in Tarangire, has ten<br />
bungalows and 30 tents. We stayed in<br />
a spacious cottage with a deck with<br />
a table and two chairs, a nice bathroom with a hot<br />
shower, and beds with mosquito nets. Staff always<br />
escorted us to and from the dining room. Remember,<br />
we were in the middle of a savannah. The grounds<br />
Wildebeast in the crater<br />
were lovely, with a swimming pool, dining space, and<br />
beautiful sunrises. During the night, we heard the sounds<br />
of a nearby lion.<br />
The following day, we ate breakfast, packed a lunch, and left<br />
the lodge for the next safari adventure.<br />
The Serengeti National Park<br />
We packed the jeep after leaving the Lake Burunge Tented<br />
Lodge and departed toward the Rift Valley. Our next stop was<br />
the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. We drove up a mountain,<br />
stopped at a viewpoint, and took photos of the crater. After<br />
taking some beautiful pictures, we left to continue our journey<br />
around the crater. We drove on bumpy roads and passed Maasai<br />
villages on our way to the Serengeti National Park.<br />
Soon, we saw the Serengeti National Park sign. I felt like that<br />
nerdy kid who watched all the nature shows on the National<br />
Geographic channel. It was a surreal feeling to finally see the<br />
Serengeti in person.<br />
Again, we hit dusty, rocky, and rough roads, but the sights and<br />
experiences were worth every moment. We saw Simba, Nala,<br />
Rafiki, Pumbaa, and Shenzi. For those who have never seen<br />
The Lion King, we saw lions, lionesses, baboons, warthogs,<br />
and hyenas. Other sightings included hippos, giraffes, impala,<br />
gazelles, water buffalos, wildebeest, ostrich, vultures, crocodiles,<br />
elephants, and birds. What a day and an experience!<br />
The jeep ride helps to make the safari experience<br />
authentic and fun at the same time.<br />
24<br />
25
26<br />
Our two-night stay at the Kati Kati Tented<br />
Lodge includes beautiful sunsets in the<br />
Serengeti and quick bucket showers.<br />
After a long day on the safari,<br />
it’s time for a beer, popcorn,<br />
and a beautiful sunset in the<br />
Serengeti.<br />
L<br />
ater, we drove to the Kati<br />
Kati Tented Camp for two<br />
nights. When we arrived,<br />
we were tired and dusty.<br />
It was dry season, so the<br />
roads in the park were dusty,<br />
too. The staff welcomed us with<br />
a cool drink and wet towel. It<br />
felt great to wipe my dusty face.<br />
While waiting to check in, the<br />
staff informed us of the camp's<br />
do's and don'ts. The base is in the<br />
wilderness, and animals roam<br />
close to the tents. One night,<br />
hyenas walked near our tents<br />
throughout the night.<br />
Before dinner, guests watch the<br />
sunset while sitting around the<br />
campfire. I'm not a camping girl,<br />
but the setting is lovely, and I<br />
marveled at nature. We could<br />
hear the same animals that we<br />
saw during the safari rides.<br />
One exciting thing about staying<br />
at the camp was the bucket<br />
shower. A better word to describe<br />
the bucket shower is 'interesting".<br />
Each guest could only use two<br />
buckets of water for their shower:<br />
one bucket to wet and soap their<br />
body and another to rinse off the<br />
soap. You will learn to be frugal<br />
and conserve!<br />
The following day, we headed<br />
back to the Serengeti National<br />
Park. We left the camp early<br />
because most of the big cats or<br />
predators were out during the<br />
morning. Our day was filled with<br />
more animal sightings. We saw<br />
all of the Big Five but the rhino.<br />
Our guide, Jeremiah, informed<br />
us that rhino sightings are rare<br />
because there are only about 150<br />
remaining due to poaching. Day<br />
Four ended, and we spent another<br />
night at the camp.<br />
Ngorongoro Farm House<br />
We left the Serengeti the following day and<br />
returned to the Ngorongoro Conservation area. We<br />
reached the crater's edge, and we were awestruck.<br />
The crater is a World Heritage Sight and seasonably<br />
home to over 25,000 animals, including birds,<br />
hyenas, and the Big Five. Out sightings included<br />
flamingos, lionesses, zebras, wildebeest, buffalos,<br />
hippos, and birds.<br />
The crater was such a peaceful scene, with all the<br />
animals in their habitat living as nature intended.<br />
The feeling is difficult to explain on paper because<br />
you must experience it.<br />
Sunset in the Serengeti.<br />
Afterward, we drove to Karutu in the Ngorongoro<br />
highlands to spend the night at TWC Ngorongoro<br />
Farm House. It was the last night in Tanzania. The<br />
setting was tranquil and natural. The grounds have a<br />
vegetable farm where coffee, bananas, green vegetables,<br />
tomatoes, and more are grown. The chef uses the<br />
harvest from the garden during breakfast and dinner.<br />
Guests stay in chalets. Each one has a lovely veranda<br />
for outdoor sitting and a fireplace in the room. The<br />
rooms are very comfortable. An outdoor swimming<br />
pool is available for guests. Our stay was for one night,<br />
but I wanted to stay longer.<br />
27
Stone Town, Zanzibar<br />
Beach and Relaxation<br />
During our walking tour,<br />
we enjoyed the view of<br />
the colorful rooftops in<br />
Stone Town.<br />
Our safari adventures were complete. We said goodbye<br />
to our guide, Jeremiah, and Swiss safari mates. We<br />
headed back to Arusha to fly to Zanzibar. The flight was<br />
approximately 90 minutes.<br />
The turquoise waters of the<br />
Indian Ocean are spectacular.<br />
The colors of the water and the<br />
boat make a perfect picture.<br />
28<br />
A walking tour in Stone<br />
Town took us through a<br />
maze of narrow streets,<br />
a fish market, and a<br />
historical slave market.<br />
The streets of Zanzibar were full of traffic. They were a maze<br />
with no street names posted or traffic lights. I'm glad I wasn't<br />
driving because I would have been dangerous to myself and<br />
others.<br />
We arrived in Stone Town and stayed at the Serena Hotel<br />
Zanzibar for two nights. It is a beautiful building with<br />
fantastic woodwork throughout. It sits on the shores of the<br />
Indian Ocean, ideal for watching gorgeous sunsets. The<br />
staff was exceptionally gracious and friendly. There, we had<br />
delicious seafood dinners and filling breakfasts with a view of<br />
the ocean.<br />
We took a guided walking tour on our second day in Stone<br />
Town.<br />
We visited the Christ Church Cathedral, slave market, fish<br />
market, and spice and vegetable market. Our guide, Barack,<br />
took us through a maze of streets as he explained the history<br />
of Zanzibar and Stone Town.<br />
He explained how the different shapes of the ornate wooden<br />
doors represented the Arab, Asian, and Portuguese influences<br />
of Zanzibar's history. It was a magical two hours filled with<br />
information that helped us understand history and culture.<br />
A<br />
ll bumpy roads lead<br />
to paradise! The<br />
following morning,<br />
we transferred to Breezes Beach Club<br />
and Spa Zanzibar by private van. The<br />
six kilometers is a ninety-minute drive<br />
that's exceptionally rough and bumpy.<br />
The drive through several villages<br />
allowed us to see more of Zanzibar and<br />
its people.<br />
Despite the rough roads, we entered<br />
the perfect setting for peace and<br />
tranquility. Breezes Beach Club and<br />
Spa is on the island's southeastern<br />
coast and sits on a white sandy beach.<br />
Seeing the beach brought me joy.<br />
The beach is tidal, and we participated<br />
in the reef safari one morning.<br />
During the morning, the water<br />
recedes over a mile out because<br />
of the tide. With a guide, we walk<br />
on the ocean floor as he describes<br />
various sea creatures, urchins,<br />
and plants. Each person must<br />
wear water shoes and use a stick<br />
for balance. It was a mandatory<br />
safety precaution. I was amazed<br />
at everything hanging out on the<br />
ocean floor.<br />
Our modus operendi was Sleep.<br />
Eat, Beach, and Repeat! Hanging<br />
out at the pool, pool bar, and<br />
seaside was it for us. We had<br />
massages to work out the bumpy<br />
road kinks. Morning beach walks<br />
and swimming got us moving<br />
and exercising. The sand was soft,<br />
white, and not hot. Each walk was<br />
two or three miles and a chance to<br />
meet and talk with the people of<br />
Zanzibar.<br />
After a few days of laziness, it was<br />
time to depart.<br />
Our time in Tanzania and<br />
Zanzibar will forever be a<br />
wonderful memory. A dream<br />
became a reality. Seeing wildlife in<br />
its natural habitat is extraordinary.<br />
Zanzibar offers a diverse culture,<br />
history, and gorgeous beaches<br />
along the Indian Ocean. Take time<br />
to experience it for yourself.<br />
29
Quebec’s Îles de la Madeleine<br />
have Captured My Heart<br />
Story and Photos by<br />
Rosalind Stefanac<br />
’ve lived in Canada<br />
my whole life<br />
and visited the<br />
province of Quebec<br />
many times over.<br />
But it takes me to my<br />
early 50s to discover a truly<br />
extraordinary group of islands in<br />
the Quebec Maritime called Îles<br />
de la Madeleine, or the Magdalen<br />
Islands.<br />
Soon after we venture outside the<br />
airport to get into our rental car,<br />
my sister Kathy and I are smitten.<br />
This archipelago contains 12<br />
islands located where the Gulf of St.<br />
Lawrence meets the Atlantic Ocean,<br />
six of which are connected by sand<br />
dunes and roads. One could easily<br />
drive from one end to the other in<br />
about two hours, but we stop within<br />
the first 10 minutes to admire the<br />
view.<br />
With few trees, the colorful houses<br />
and majestic red cliffs, overlooking<br />
miles and miles of pristine, white<br />
beaches, take center stage. We<br />
drive a little further to Cap Alright<br />
Lighthouse built in 1928, one of<br />
six lighthouses on the islands. It’s<br />
a windy September day, and I am<br />
instantly mesmerized, watching<br />
majestic waves lap rhythmically<br />
against massive rock. I feel one with<br />
nature in this environment, even<br />
though I’ve just arrived.<br />
One of six lighthouses in the area, Cap Alright was built in 1928<br />
30<br />
Our treks took us over<br />
rolling hills beside the ocean<br />
Hiking Sisters<br />
Eventually, Kathy and I make our<br />
way to the recently renovated,<br />
seaside Chateau Madelinot in<br />
Cap-aux-Meules island, where<br />
we will settle in for the week.<br />
We have come to hike a portion<br />
of the Sentiers Entre Vents et<br />
Marées, a series of 6.5 to 17-mile<br />
trails that encompass a 143-mile<br />
circuit around the islands.<br />
While there are many ways to<br />
tour this area, walking the trails<br />
is an ideal opportunity to explore<br />
the coastal paths, woods, cliffs,<br />
dunes, and towns along the way.<br />
Plus, we both love to hike. When<br />
the trails aren’t clearly marked,<br />
we can also rely on this online,<br />
INTERACTIVE MAP to keep us<br />
on track.<br />
31
By day we trek through unspoiled landscape, stopping to have<br />
picnic lunches thoughtfully prepared by our hotel staff. One<br />
day we sit by the ocean and watch grey seals frolicking in the<br />
water. (In the winter, the hotel offers excursions to see harp<br />
seals native to the area gather on icepacks surrounding the<br />
islands.) One lunch hour, on the island of Havre-Aubert, we<br />
stop to dine al fresco by the beautiful stained-glass windows of<br />
Holy Trinity Church constructed in 1925.<br />
The striking red<br />
cliffs of the island of<br />
Havre-Aubert<br />
Throughout our hikes, each area reveals its<br />
personality and charm. Filled with cliffs<br />
and rolling sand dunes, Havre-Aubert is<br />
home to the town of La Grave, a former<br />
fishing village and historic site filled with<br />
unique artisan shops. Art is a vital part of<br />
life on these islands and it becomes quickly<br />
apparent that the landscape serves as a key<br />
source of inspiration.<br />
he Island of Cap aux Meules is where<br />
we find the main ferry terminal and a<br />
bustling melange of eateries, from casual<br />
fare to upscale restaurants. We come back<br />
several nights to sample recommended<br />
favorites, including Aux Pas Perdu (https://<br />
www.pasperdus.com/) for craft beer and poutine<br />
(fries, cheese curds, and gravy), served with hefty<br />
portions of freshly caught scallops. After a particularly<br />
long trek, we enjoy a quick bite at Decker Boy, which<br />
offers succulent lobster sandwiches and crispy funnel<br />
cake. Seal meat is also part of local cuisine, served in<br />
stews, pates, and smoked products.<br />
La Pointe aux Loups, a narrow strip of land surrounded<br />
by water on both sides is the smallest of the islands—<br />
and the most peaceful. It’s the ideal spot to stop, relax,<br />
and soak it all in. Grand Entry Island is the province’s<br />
lobster capital and harbors 100+ bright-colored<br />
fishing boats. Here we find a fishing museum, friendly<br />
fisherman, and a terraced café called La Marina Entry<br />
Island (https://www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com/en/<br />
la-marina-entry-island/restaurants/), which offers tasty<br />
homemade desserts and amazing coffee.<br />
Red cliffs are a<br />
key part of the<br />
landscape on<br />
the islands<br />
Early one morning, on the day before our departure, we<br />
take a ferry to Entry Island. It’s the only inhabited island<br />
not connected by land. While tourists love to visit, and<br />
some have even built summer homes here, there are only<br />
60 full-time residents.<br />
Trail signs along our way<br />
32<br />
Here we get a fascinating look into the history of the<br />
islands at the local museum. The area was first settled<br />
in the 18th century by the Acadians—French-speaking<br />
settlers originally displaced from what is now Canada’s<br />
province of Nova Scotia. They still make up the majority<br />
of Magdalen Islands’ approximately 13,000 residents.<br />
We also learn that more than 400 shipwrecks have been<br />
recorded in the area, due to treacherous storms and the<br />
lack of modern navigation aids at the time. Many of<br />
those survivors made these parts their permanent home.<br />
Before climate change, the locals tell us they could walk<br />
across the ocean to the mainland on ice caps in the<br />
winter, a distance of some 7.5 miles.<br />
Before heading back to the ferry and our hotel, we<br />
make our way up Big Hill, the tallest point of Magdalen<br />
Islands at 571 feet above sea level. It’s a spectacular view<br />
of our entire trek. “I’ll never forget this place,” says my<br />
sister. I couldn’t agree more.<br />
To learn more about Magdalen Islands go to<br />
https://www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com/.<br />
33
My Perfect Weekend in Cambria<br />
Story and Photos by Nicole Leonetti<br />
My husband and I recently faced an unusual and perplexing dilemma – a holiday weekend with<br />
no firm travel plans! Fortunately, inspiration hit when a magical destination popped into our<br />
minds. We had not visited Cambria, California in years – but quickly agreed that it is the ideal<br />
location for a proper weekend getaway. Cambria, located halfway between Los Angeles and San<br />
Francisco, is a seaside village that perfectly expresses what Central Coast living is all about.<br />
Drawn by a chance to escape the Southern California heat, we decided to stay in Moonstone<br />
Beach – a picturesque slice of coast in Cambria, which enjoys cooler weather throughout the<br />
year. In addition to the summertime 60-degree temperatures, Moonstone Beach offers gorgeous<br />
views, a mile-long boardwalk, and plenty of hotel options.<br />
e selected White Water<br />
Lodge as our home in<br />
Cambria. This was an<br />
optimal choice as it is located<br />
right on Moonstone Beach and<br />
is dog-friendly to accommodate<br />
our pup – Frankie. White Water<br />
Lodge boasts several amenities<br />
including wine and snacks available into the<br />
evening and a firepit perfectly situated for<br />
watching the sunset. Your room rate includes<br />
Continental Breakfast, delivered to your room<br />
each morning, which entails a picnic basket<br />
filled with pastries, coffee, juice, and sparkling<br />
wine for Mimosas.<br />
One fabulous perk of Moonstone Beach is<br />
walkability - park your car once and you<br />
really do not need it again during your stay.<br />
After settling into our hotel, we (Frankie in<br />
particular) bounded across the street to the<br />
boardwalk to explore Moonstone Beach. After<br />
capturing countless photos of breathtaking<br />
ocean waves crashing into the rocks of the<br />
beach, we decided to refresh ourselves at<br />
Madeline’s on Moonstone. Madeline’s is a<br />
Cambria institution and their beachside tasting<br />
room overlooking the ocean has a casual food<br />
menu as well as a wide assortment of wine and<br />
beer tastings. I opted for a wine flight that<br />
included fantastic local red wines of the Central<br />
Coast.<br />
Moonstone Beach Bar & Grill<br />
was the location for both of our<br />
dinners at Moonstone Beach<br />
After our pit stop, we pressed on along the<br />
beach route so that we would work up a<br />
sufficient appetite for dinner. Stumbling<br />
upon Moonstone Beach Bar & Grill, we found<br />
another perfect spot for a sunset with indoor<br />
and outdoor seating options. Moonstone<br />
Beach Bar & Grill, known for their seafood<br />
such as Crab Legs and Lobster Tails, does get<br />
quite crowded and does not take reservations.<br />
Luckily, you have the option to enjoy a cocktail<br />
or two while you wait and take in the ocean<br />
Wine, a fire pit, and beach<br />
The one-mile-long boardwalk along<br />
views felt like paradise at<br />
Moonstone Beach is the perfect place<br />
views. Once seated, I dug into their Cove<br />
White Water Lodge<br />
to capture the best beach views.<br />
Scampi – sauteed shrimp finished with a white<br />
wine and butter sauce.<br />
34 35
Stepladder Ranch & Creamery focuses<br />
on producing small-batch, awardwinning<br />
cheeses made from both<br />
goat's and cow's milk.<br />
Cheese, Glorious Cheese from<br />
Stepladder Creamery<br />
Another incredible seafood spot along<br />
Moonstone Beach is the Sea Chest Oyster Bar.<br />
Open since 1975, this iconic Central Coast<br />
establishment does not take credit cards or<br />
reservations but typically has a line of people<br />
waiting to order specialties such as fresh oysters,<br />
clam chowder, and cioppino.<br />
For our second day in Cambria, we really packed<br />
the fun! We started our adventure at Stepladder<br />
Ranch & Creamery, which is absolute heaven for<br />
people who love cheese … and goats! Stepladder<br />
specializes in crafting small-batch, awardwinning<br />
goat and cow’s milk cheeses. Their top<br />
priority, however, is to ensure their goats live a<br />
“dairy goat princess lifestyle” with every luxury<br />
a goat could imagine. Nestled among beautiful<br />
mountains just fifteen minutes from Moonstone<br />
Beach, Stepladder allows guests to book a full<br />
tour of the creamery that includes hang time<br />
with the goats and an amazing cheese tasting.<br />
Speaking as a self-proclaimed cheese expert,<br />
Stepladder’s cheese is among the best I have ever<br />
tasted! Their Spicy Fromage Blanc and Chèvre<br />
were among the highlights.<br />
Leaving the adorable goats, our next stop was<br />
lunch in downtown Cambria at Madeleine’s<br />
Restaurant & Wine Cellar, which offers a lovely,<br />
dog-friendly patio and a French-inspired menu.<br />
Favorites include the Steak Frites and Mushroom<br />
Tartine, which I suggest pairing with one of the<br />
boutique Central Coast wines on their menu.<br />
fter lunch, we took advantage<br />
of Cambria’s Main Street with<br />
a bit of shopping at stores such<br />
as Verde of Cambria, known for<br />
their organic, herbal teas; and<br />
Maddie Mae’s Pet Pantry, where<br />
we chose a few treats and toys<br />
for Frankie.<br />
As a passionate wine lover, I cannot visit<br />
any town without seeking out the best wine<br />
available. While nearby Paso Robles affords<br />
ample wine-tasting opportunities – in Cambria,<br />
Parr Collective at Stolo Vineyards is a mustvisit.<br />
Located just minutes from Main Street,<br />
Stolo Vineyards is a relaxing place to sip on<br />
some seriously impressive wine! These wines<br />
are produced by internationally recognized<br />
winemaker Raj Parr. This cool climate location<br />
produces award-winning estate Pinot Noir,<br />
Syrah, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and<br />
more. Stolo has ample outdoor seating to<br />
enjoy live music, cheese boards, happy hour,<br />
and in-depth wine tastings. I enjoyed the wine<br />
so much that I needed to bring home a few<br />
friends - including a bottle of Mondeuse. Being<br />
a new grape to me, I quickly fell in love with<br />
Mondeuse, which produces a deeply colored,<br />
aromatic red wine with good acidity and tannic<br />
structure.<br />
After all the wine, we did the unthinkable and<br />
dined at the same restaurant we had enjoyed<br />
the night before. I rarely repeat restaurants<br />
on a vacation, but I couldn’t deny those<br />
sunset views and the convenient location<br />
of Moonstone Beach Bar & Grill just steps<br />
from our hotel. The second time around, I<br />
went for the Fish & Chips to appreciate the<br />
quintessential beach dining experience.<br />
The scenic drive from Paso Robles to Cambria on Route 46.<br />
36<br />
This goat is enjoying the “dairy goat princess lifestyle” that<br />
they are provided with at Stepladder Creamery.<br />
Verde of Cambria offers over 80 flavors of<br />
luxury, organic, herbal teas<br />
Whether you are looking to relax on the beach,<br />
shop, taste fantastic cheese and wine, or feast on<br />
fresh seafood - Cambria has all the ingredients<br />
for a perfect weekend. Have I mentioned the<br />
ocean views and dog-friendly nature of the<br />
town? Cambria is a gem on the Central Coast<br />
that I look forward to visiting again and again.<br />
I am convinced that you will love it too!<br />
Iconic winemaker Raj Parr<br />
makes his incredible wines<br />
here at the Parr Collective<br />
at Stolo Vineyards<br />
A few friends I took home from the Parr<br />
Collective at Stolo Vineyards<br />
37
The main pool at Family Selection at Grand<br />
Palladium Katenah Resort and Spa<br />
Here are some<br />
ways that make the<br />
Family Selection at<br />
Grand Palladium<br />
Kantenah Resort<br />
and Spa stand out.<br />
38<br />
Family Selection at<br />
Grand Palladium<br />
Kantenah<br />
Resort & Spa<br />
Story and Photos by Janice Sakata-Schultze<br />
The lobby of Grand Palladium<br />
Katenah Resort and Spa<br />
I knew when a coati darted across my path,<br />
eyes alert and tail pencil-straight in the air,<br />
I wasn’t in the typical Riviera Maya luxury<br />
all-inclusive. Later, I spied at least a halfdozen<br />
iguanas of all sizes, some as motionless<br />
as statues and waiting for me to pass by so I<br />
wouldn’t disturb them.<br />
One thing that guests will discover<br />
immediately about the Family Selection at Grand Palladium Kantenah<br />
Resort and Spa is the natural setting incorporated into the property<br />
grounds. That's especially true if you walk along its pathways, cutting<br />
through the lush foliage. It’s part of their philosophy to maintain as much<br />
of an unspoiled environment as possible, with coati, agouti (resembling<br />
smaller tapirs), iguanas, spider monkeys, and different tropical birds.<br />
Naturally, that’s a major draw for children, who the Family Selection resort<br />
serves well, along with their parents and adult relatives. As a resort within<br />
the Grand Palladium Katenah and within the larger four-resort Grand<br />
Palladium Riviera Maya, the Family Selection seamlessly melds family<br />
travel with luxury all-inclusive amenities in a manner that makes everyone<br />
happy on a Mexican vacation.<br />
SPACIOUS SUITES<br />
Family Selection occupies five of Grand Palladium<br />
Katenah Resort and Spa's eleven buildings. As of<br />
this writing, more were under construction at the far<br />
north end of the property and along the private beach<br />
for guests. Each three-story building has stairs to<br />
the individual suites and doesn't have elevators. The<br />
rooms have one king bed with a single sleeper sofa<br />
or two double beds. Specific units connect so larger<br />
families can have sufficient room for everyone.<br />
On the first floor of these buildings, guests can choose<br />
rooms with a swim-up pool, which spans the length<br />
of the units. It isn't too wide, approximately six or<br />
seven feet from the patio steps to the edge. But this<br />
is a great alternative to the larger pools for kids who<br />
may just want to splash around in their own swim<br />
space—or for adults who need a cooling off and some<br />
relaxation.<br />
The bathrooms in these units also provide plenty of<br />
room. Featuring double vanity sinks, a stand-alone<br />
marble tub, a water closet toilet and a shower with<br />
a rain head or handheld options, families can feel<br />
they are not crowding in while getting ready for the<br />
day. Grand Palladium offers wonderfully scented<br />
L’Occitane bath products for an extra touch of luxury.<br />
The only drawback of the Family Selection rooms is<br />
the limited storage. With minimal shelves, drawers<br />
and hanging areas, I took about half of the closet<br />
space. There weren't any other drawers available. This<br />
lack might be problematic for a family of four, so<br />
hopefully, the new units will solve this issue.<br />
The three-tiered infinity pool at TRS Yucatan Hotel, one of<br />
the exclusive access amenities for Family Selection guests<br />
A swim-up pool for Family Selection guests<br />
A double room at Family Selection at Grand Palladium<br />
Katenah Resort and Spa<br />
39
CONCIERGE<br />
AT YOUR<br />
SERVICE<br />
LUXURY<br />
RESORT<br />
ACCESS<br />
A ceviche cooking demonstration at Grand Palladium Katenah<br />
As part of the exclusive luxury collection,<br />
Family Selection at Grand Palladium<br />
Kantenah Resort and Spa offers concierge<br />
service in each of the five buildings. Two<br />
alternating staff members will take care of<br />
guests' needs, whether bringing a late dinner<br />
or making a reservation at another resort<br />
restaurant, offsite activity, or one of the two<br />
live shows.<br />
Our concierges, Yadi and Erick, were<br />
friendly and gracious. They remembered<br />
what we liked to have in minibars or<br />
suggested something that we might want to<br />
do on the property or outside of it. While we<br />
could request something if they were at their<br />
desks, they recommended communicating<br />
through the Grand Palladium app, where<br />
we could message them, and they would<br />
respond promptly. They would always ask if<br />
I needed a cart ride if I saw them at the desk,<br />
as the resort grounds were extensive.<br />
Another service exclusive to Family<br />
Selection guests was the check-in at the front<br />
of the resort. I arrived very late, and the<br />
temperatures were still warm and humid.<br />
But having this dedicated enclosed area,<br />
with its plush furnishings, cold beverages<br />
and air conditioning, made the process more<br />
pleasant. In contrast, all other guests checked<br />
in at the outside desk. The receptionist also<br />
called a cart to take me to my room without<br />
waiting. Upon checking out, the concierges<br />
ensured that these transports would be<br />
readily available to take me to the lobby.<br />
Choosing the Family Selection<br />
option for a stay at Grand<br />
Palladium Katenah Resort and<br />
Spa allows privileges not available<br />
to regular guests. Access to the<br />
TRS Yucatan Hotel, the adultsonly<br />
resort on the opposite end of<br />
the complex, is most appealing.<br />
While kids can hang out at the<br />
Black and White Club and enjoy<br />
age-appropriate activities, parents<br />
can head over to TRS and relax at<br />
one of two exclusive pool clubs,<br />
dine at the Helios restaurants, or<br />
one more upscale eateries on the<br />
premises. One of the pools is filled<br />
with saltwater from the Caribbean<br />
Sea, while the other is a threetiered<br />
infinity layout with at least a<br />
hundred chaise lounges and a few<br />
dozen covered doubles.<br />
Guests also have access to<br />
facilities and restaurants at other<br />
properties—namely, Grand<br />
Palladium Colonial Resort and<br />
Spa and Grand Palladium White<br />
Sand Resort and Spa. These include<br />
two dozen options, ranging from<br />
locally curated Mexican dishes to<br />
gourmet fine dining. This privilege<br />
is exclusive to the Family Selection<br />
and TRS Yucatan hotel guests. I<br />
tried the Poseidon Beach Club,<br />
where I enjoyed a Mexican-themed<br />
buffet alongside the crashing waves<br />
in the distance.<br />
An idyllic relaxing beach scene at Grand Palladium Riviera Maya<br />
Another bonus for Family Selection<br />
guests is admission to the two dinner<br />
programs at Grand Palladium Colonial<br />
(Bravo) and TRS Yucatan Hotel (Chic).<br />
The two shows couldn't be more diverse,<br />
not only because the first is more familyfriendly,<br />
but the other is adults-only.<br />
However, like a Vegas music and dance<br />
review, Chic is more professionally<br />
produced. The dinner is better in quality<br />
and gourmet in its presentation. I<br />
particularly enjoyed the tuna in local<br />
essence, with ahi in pumpkin seed and<br />
hoja santa crust, endive, walnut, and<br />
burnt chile aioli, and the braised short<br />
rib with smoked chiles.<br />
Even with the luxurious surroundings,<br />
beautiful meals, and impeccable service,<br />
the main detail of the Family Selection<br />
at Grand Palladium Katenah Resort and<br />
Spa is its natural surroundings. I don't<br />
know if I will see a coati or iguanas again<br />
in such a sumptuous place.<br />
A special Mexican buffet dinner at the Poseidon Beach Club<br />
40 41
The iconic Key West vibe: swaying palm trees,<br />
sunny skies, and laid-back beach days.<br />
5 Unique Florida <strong>Fall</strong> Adventures:<br />
Food, Festivals, and Family Fun<br />
Story and Photos by Portia Olaughlin<br />
90 miles to Cuba and a lifetime<br />
of memories—posing at the<br />
Southernmost Point in the USA.<br />
It’s no surprise that Florida is the perfect backdrop for fall adventures considering that as the rest of the<br />
country starts bundling up, Florida just gets comfy again. The summer heat and crowds melt away, and locals<br />
feel like they can breathe again. For visitors, it feels like the state turns into their personal playground before<br />
the winter travelers return. But here’s the fun part: Florida has so many hidden surprises beyond the beach and<br />
theme park rides.<br />
Explore Key West's rich history at the Key West<br />
Art and History Museum.<br />
A tribute to Hemingway’s beloved six-toed cats—forever<br />
remembered in the peaceful Key West Garden.<br />
There are food festivals, bonfire season, and cultural celebrations that offer so much more to explore, indulge<br />
in, and discover. Here are five unique fall adventures that will have you exploring the Sunshine State’s hidden<br />
gems and wandering far from the beaten path.<br />
EPCOT INTERNATIONAL FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL<br />
So, this one may not come as a<br />
shocking surprise, but it’s so good<br />
that it’s worth saying. If you can only<br />
visit Disney World once in your life,<br />
I highly recommend that you time<br />
your visit during one of the special<br />
festivals like this one. It’s a foodie’s<br />
haven! Wine and dine around the<br />
world while introducing your family<br />
to global cuisines without leaving<br />
Florida.<br />
42<br />
Presented by CORKCICLE, this<br />
annual event runs from August 29<br />
to November 23, <strong>2024</strong>, at EPCOT<br />
in Walt Disney World. Cute kiosks<br />
representing different countries serve<br />
up dishes from Africa to Japan, and<br />
there’s even live music from big-name<br />
artists like Boyz II Men and Sugar<br />
Ray—at no extra cost!<br />
We love the variety of flavors, with<br />
most bites ranging from $5 to $13,<br />
Explore Ernest Hemingway's fabled Key<br />
West house and travel back in time.<br />
Living the purr-fect life—a descendent of Hemingway’s<br />
famous six-toed cats!<br />
KIDS FREE SEPT-OCT IN KEY WEST<br />
and there are even allergy-friendly<br />
options found throughout the<br />
festival. Don’t leave without<br />
indulging in the passion fruit<br />
cheesecake from Hawaii and<br />
tasting some of Florida’s fantastic<br />
flavors. Track your family’s culinary<br />
adventure with a festival passport<br />
and navigate the Kidcot Fun Stops<br />
and scavenger hunts along the way.<br />
This is an effortless way to eat, play,<br />
If a tropical fall adventure<br />
sounds like your thing, the<br />
Florida Keys offers kids-free<br />
admission from September to<br />
October at popular attractions<br />
like the Key West Aquarium<br />
and the Conch Tour Train.<br />
Enjoy the open-air ride that<br />
passes Key West’s most famous<br />
spots while highlighting its<br />
unique history and modern<br />
Our favorite hidden gem is Scarecrows<br />
in the Garden at the Key West Tropical<br />
Forest and Botanical Garden. This<br />
quirky display of scarecrows is made<br />
from natural, recycled, and repurposed<br />
or reused materials only.<br />
Being the Chicago natives that we are,<br />
we couldn’t go without stopping by<br />
a true Chicago tradition found right<br />
in Key West! The Original Rainbow<br />
cone is stacked in slices of 5 flavors:<br />
chocolate, strawberry, Palmer House,<br />
pistachio, and orange sherbet, and<br />
kids can enjoy one free with an adult<br />
purchase!<br />
Stack a midweek adventure with visits<br />
that include aquarium encounters,<br />
turtle rescues, glass-bottom boat<br />
tours, and a visit to see the famous<br />
Hemingway 6-toed cats.<br />
and make memories together. present.<br />
43
FLIGHTOBER FEST<br />
Flightober Fest is held in Lakeland every October<br />
(October 12, <strong>2024</strong>), This festival is at the SUN<br />
‘n FUN Expo campus with aircraft displays,<br />
music, food, craft beer, and kid’s activities.<br />
Some families even fly in and camp out. The $5<br />
entry is affordable with kids under 12 entering<br />
for FREE, giving access to 11 local craft beer<br />
breweries, 3 scheduled bands playing, and a<br />
Pumpkin Dash 5K Run/Walk to kick off the event.<br />
This aviation festival lets kids engage with<br />
interactive exhibits like flight simulators while you<br />
enjoy craft beer and live music. Watch aviation<br />
CELEBRATE NATIVE<br />
AMERICAN HERITAGE<br />
MONTH NEAR MIAMI<br />
For the ultimate experience in cultural exploration,<br />
a visit to the Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Museum in Big Cypress<br />
during the American Indigenous Arts Celebration<br />
(November 1-2, <strong>2024</strong>) is a must as it showcases Native<br />
American culture through art, music, and dance.<br />
Take to the skies at SUN 'n FUN! Just<br />
one of the many amazing planes on<br />
exhibit is this vintage beauty.<br />
history come alive with historical planes on display and<br />
hands-on aviation activities, including drone flying. Don’t<br />
forget your lawn chairs for lounging near the live music<br />
comfortably.<br />
We loved being drawn into this educational exploration<br />
of the Seminole Tribe of Florida through traditional<br />
performances and detailed storytelling. The arts and<br />
crafts demonstrations from Native artisans include basket<br />
weaving and beadwork.<br />
The mile-long walk on the boardwalk gives you a taste<br />
of the peaceful, quiet life in the Everglades. Bring<br />
cash for local arts and crafts vendors—and don’t leave<br />
without trying some authentic tribal food. Trust us, this<br />
experience will stick with you.<br />
KIDS FREE NOVEMBER<br />
IN JACKSONVILLE<br />
Jacksonville is one of the liveliest outdoor experiences to<br />
enjoy for wildlife and nature enthusiasts, and November<br />
is the perfect month to experience it. All month long in<br />
November, Jacksonville offers free admission for kids<br />
to over 20 attractions, from museums to zoos. Plan<br />
a budget-friendly fall getaway filled with hands-on<br />
experiences like feeding giraffes at the Jacksonville Zoo.<br />
Go from the dinosaur digs at MOSH (Museum of<br />
Science and History) to enjoying free bike rentals,<br />
kayaking, mini-golf, and even ice skating. Don’t miss<br />
the opportunity to visit Catty Shack Ranch Wildlife<br />
Sanctuary, where endangered big cats were rescued and<br />
provided a loving, forever home.<br />
We’ve been celebrating fall adventures in Florida for<br />
over 20 years as visitors and over 10 years as locals.<br />
From food festivals to cultural celebrations and handson<br />
activities, it’s one of the best times to fall in love with<br />
all that Florida has to offer.<br />
The tranquil beauty of water lilies at<br />
Jacksonville Zoo and Gardens.<br />
Kids at play in the Jacksonville Zoo’s serene<br />
fountain garden—a peaceful spot to cool off<br />
and connect with nature.<br />
Feathered friends showing off their<br />
smarts at the Jacksonville Zoo!<br />
44<br />
Enter Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki, the Seminole<br />
Tribe's magnificent cultural center.<br />
Travel into the heart of the Everglades<br />
on the Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki boardwalk.<br />
Meet this majestic tiger at Catty Shack Ranch,<br />
where rescued big cats find a forever home.<br />
Find peace and beauty at the Cummer Museum Gardens,<br />
a riverside escape that blends art and nature.<br />
45
46<br />
Sipping the Sun:<br />
A Journey Through Colorado’s<br />
Western Slope Wine Country<br />
Story and Photos by Kathryn Wagner<br />
erched against the<br />
backdrop of the<br />
rugged Rockies,<br />
the Western Slope of<br />
Colorado is a veritable<br />
garden of vineyards and<br />
wineries. This region, often<br />
overshadowed by its more famous<br />
counterparts in other parts of the U.S.,<br />
offers a burgeoning wine scene, where<br />
tradition meets innovation, and every<br />
bottle reflects the landscape's rich,<br />
diverse terroir. As I ventured into this<br />
oenological oasis, I was captivated not<br />
just by the wines, but by the passionate<br />
people who have staked their claim<br />
in this challenging industry. From<br />
winemakers crafting experimental<br />
vintages to chefs highlighting local<br />
ingredients in their menus, the<br />
Western Slope is a canvas painted with<br />
ambition, resilience, and a deep-rooted<br />
love for the land.<br />
At the heart of this endeavor is the<br />
Colorado Governor's Cup, an annual<br />
wine competition held by the Colorado<br />
Wine Industry Board. A passion for<br />
winemaking is palpable as we taste<br />
our way through the two American<br />
Viticultural Areas in the state, with<br />
stops at tasting rooms and vineyards<br />
of Governor's Cup winners. We get<br />
a glimpse into the philosophy<br />
behind each winner's craft. “Wine<br />
is about connection,” we hear again<br />
and again, as winemakers show<br />
us around picturesque vineyards<br />
where vines twist and turn under<br />
the bright Colorado sun. Each<br />
grape reflects its environment—<br />
rooted in the soil, nourished by the<br />
climate, and shaped by the care of<br />
the hands that tend them. Here,<br />
the challenges of viticulture within<br />
the extremes of Colorado's climate<br />
are not to be underestimated; the<br />
elevation, temperature fluctuations,<br />
and the unpredictable whims of<br />
weather all play a role. Dr. Horst<br />
Caspari, CSU’s State Viticulturist,<br />
elaborates on these challenges,<br />
offering insights into the<br />
meticulous strategies employed by<br />
local growers to cultivate successful<br />
harvests. These strategies are part<br />
of a set of best practices developed<br />
by Dr. Caspari and his team<br />
with Colorado State University's<br />
Viticulture research lab. The lab<br />
includes an experimental vineyard<br />
growing varietals that are new to<br />
the area yet thrive in the extremes<br />
of Colorado's weather. It is a<br />
delicate dance of science and art,<br />
that plays out over years before<br />
anything reaches a glass.<br />
Dr. Horst Caspari, CSU State Viticulturist<br />
discusses the challenges of viticulture<br />
on the Western Slope of Colorado.<br />
Grapegrower Kaibab Sauvage and<br />
Winemaker Patric Matysiewski in the<br />
vineyard of Sauvage Spectrum winery<br />
in Palisade, Colorado with bottles<br />
of Sparklet White, part of a line of<br />
affordable sparkling wines<br />
found myself enchanted not<br />
just by the vineyards, but by the<br />
local culinary scene that thrives<br />
alongside the wine industry.<br />
At Pêche, line cooks were busy<br />
preparing dishes that celebrated<br />
the region’s commitment to<br />
agriculture and a thriving local<br />
food system. The passion of Matthew<br />
Chasseur, Chef and Ashley Fees Chasseur,<br />
General Manager was evident in the<br />
attention to detail in the cuisine and style<br />
of service. I watched as kitchen staff plated<br />
a charred broccolini appetizer which<br />
was paired with Buckel Family Wines'<br />
2022 Sauvignon Blanc, a crisp, refreshing<br />
wine that sang with notes of citrus and<br />
green apple. The melding of flavors<br />
was a testament to the philosophy of<br />
“terroir,” where what grows on the earth is<br />
intricately tied to what fills our plates. The<br />
chefs here not only showcase the wines<br />
but also collaborate with local wineries to<br />
create pairings that elevate both food and<br />
drink. It was a moment that encapsulated<br />
the spirit of the region: an unyielding<br />
commitment to quality and community.<br />
The creativity doesn’t stop in the<br />
kitchen; it is abundantly evident in the<br />
wineries themselves. At Red Fox Cellar,<br />
the winemakers decided to push the<br />
boundaries of convention with their<br />
Cabernet Franc Avant Garde Reserve<br />
Rye Whiskey Barrel Aged. Originally<br />
conceived as an experimental vintage,<br />
it quickly became a customer favorite,<br />
leading to the release of a second<br />
edition. This innovation is indicative<br />
of the broader trends in Colorado's<br />
wine industry—risk-taking and<br />
experimentation are not just encouraged;<br />
they are celebrated. At Sauvage Spectrum<br />
Winery, Kaibab Sauvage and winemaker<br />
Patric Matysiewski welcomed our<br />
group into their vineyard with a bottle<br />
of Pet Nat Sparklet White, part of their<br />
affordable sparkling wine line that<br />
celebrates diversity. Here, I learned about<br />
their commitment to sustainability and<br />
accessibility, ensuring that wine is a<br />
pleasure for everyone to experience.<br />
Peche restaurant's Broccoli appetizer<br />
with watermelon radish, melon and<br />
cilantro. It is paired with Buckel Family<br />
Wines 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, featuring<br />
grapes grown in Palisade, Colorado<br />
and a primary fermentation of 24 days<br />
in stainless steel tanks. 13% ABV<br />
The Pet Nat White, from Sauvage<br />
Spectrum Vineyard and Tasting<br />
Room in Palisade, Colorado<br />
A blend of four secret varietals,<br />
this wine is fermented in stainless<br />
steel,and aged on the lees after<br />
bottle fermentation. 14% ABV.<br />
Line cooks prepare<br />
bread courses in<br />
the open kitchen of<br />
Pêche. Restaurant<br />
in Palisade,<br />
Colorado.<br />
Pêche Restaurant's Raclette dish<br />
with Surryano Ham, Baguette, and<br />
Ginger Onion Jam<br />
Red Fox Cellar's Cabernet<br />
Franc Avant Garde Reserve<br />
Rye Whiskey Barrel Aged<br />
was originally made as an<br />
experimental vintage, but<br />
proved popular with customers<br />
that the winemaker created a<br />
second edition. 14.10% ABV<br />
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Steve Steese and Jayme<br />
Henderson, Founders and<br />
winemakers of the Storm Cellar,<br />
at the Hotchkiss, Colorado<br />
vineyard and tasting room<br />
A bottle and glass of the The<br />
Storm Cellar's 2021 Rose' of<br />
Chambourcin, which was whole<br />
cluster pressed, then naturally<br />
fermented in stainless steel tanks.<br />
Featuring high acidity and low<br />
tannins this French American<br />
hybrid wine came to 13.5% ABV.<br />
Forage Sisters Catering<br />
featuring a cabbage fritter<br />
with Miso Mayo, shallot and<br />
chile crisp, cilantro redux,<br />
root slaw and microgreens.<br />
Paired with Storm Cellar's<br />
Estate Dry Riesling, and<br />
Estate Field Blend.<br />
s the sun began casting golden<br />
hues across the vines, I found<br />
myself at Storm Cellar, where<br />
a bottle of their 2021 Rosé of<br />
Chambourcin awaited me.<br />
Whole cluster pressed and<br />
naturally fermented, this<br />
wine embodies the spirit of the Western<br />
Slope: fresh, vibrant, and bursting with<br />
flavor. Storm Cellar specializes in white<br />
and rose wines, "because that is what we<br />
enjoy drinking ourselves," shares Jayme<br />
Henderson. Jayme, along with her husband<br />
Steve Steese, is a pair of former Denver<br />
sommeliers turned winemakers. The two<br />
have been on a roll as of late, kicking<br />
off <strong>2024</strong> by scoring 95 points for Storm<br />
Cellar's 2020 Dry Estate Riesling, after<br />
being named Colorado Winery of the Year<br />
in 2023. Sipping the Rosé of Chambourcin<br />
while overlooking the sprawling<br />
vineyards in the West Elk Mountains<br />
was a gorgeously unique experience. The<br />
owners shared their story of perseverance,<br />
overcoming the odds to establish their<br />
winery in an area often dismissed by<br />
traditional winemaking standards. It<br />
was a reminder that this region, with its<br />
challenging weather patterns and alpinedesert<br />
terroir, produces wines that defy<br />
expectations and resonate with a distinct<br />
identity.<br />
he experiences throughout<br />
the Western Slope revealed a<br />
microcosm of human endeavor,<br />
passion, and creativity. At<br />
every vineyard and restaurant, the<br />
stories intermingled with the scents<br />
of fermentation and the sounds of<br />
clinking glasses. I recalled the roasted<br />
beets with citrus at Bin707 Foodbar, the flavors<br />
melding seamlessly with a backdrop of shared<br />
laughter and lively conversation. This chef-driven<br />
restaurant is a notable contribution to the Grand<br />
Junction restaurant scene. Owner and Chef<br />
Josh Niernberg is a restaurateur committed to<br />
showcasing the abundant local food available in<br />
Grand Junction. Bin707 Foodbar is the crown<br />
jewel of the diverse concepts he runs within<br />
the area. Here, food and wine become vessels<br />
of community, binding together the growers,<br />
winemakers, and chefs into a singular narrative<br />
woven through the fabric of Colorado’s culture.<br />
Bin707 Foodbar's Ruby Red Trout Rillette with<br />
Trout Roe Beurre Blanc, and Radish.<br />
A bottle and glass of Carlson<br />
Vineyards American AVA 365 Red<br />
3, a blend of 60% Chambourcin<br />
35% Lemberger 5% Cabernet<br />
Franc, medium bodied and medium<br />
acidity. 13.5% ABV.<br />
Proprietor and Winemaker Garrett<br />
Portra welcomes visitors to<br />
Carlson Vineyards Grand Junction<br />
tasting room in downtown Grand<br />
Junction, Colorado.<br />
s I departed this understated destination in the wine world,<br />
I felt a sense of hope and possibility. The Western Slope<br />
of Colorado is not just a burgeoning wine region; it is a<br />
testament to the power of passion and resilience. The stories<br />
of its winemakers and chefs are a reminder that, like a<br />
fine wine, great things often take time to develop. With<br />
every sip, we are not just tasting the fruit of the vine; we are<br />
experiencing the heart and soul of a community determined to carve<br />
its place in the world of wine. As the sun set behind the mountains, I<br />
couldn’t help but smile at the thought of the adventures yet to come,<br />
eager to return and explore even more of what this vibrant region has<br />
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Jeff Stultz, Head Winemaker<br />
of Holy Cross Abbey Winery<br />
located in Cañon City, CO.<br />
Julie Bennett, co-founder of<br />
Qutori Winery in the Panoia,<br />
Colorado tasting room.<br />
A glass of Carboy Winery's 2019 Blanc<br />
La La La, Grüner Veltliner sparkling wine,<br />
made in the Charmat Method, 100% from<br />
Grand Valley AVA grapes. 12.5% ABV.<br />
Bin707's Roasted Beets with Citrus, Puffed<br />
Beet Crisp, Sage Honey Yogurt and Frisée.<br />
Visitors stroll in Downtown Grand Junction, Colorado.<br />
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Gilded Age Luxury for the Modern Guest<br />
Story by Lauralee Dobbins and Images Courtesy of Jekyll Island Club<br />
he first time I visited<br />
the Jekyll Island<br />
Club, I thought I’d<br />
arrived on a movie set.<br />
Live oaks dripping<br />
with Spanish moss<br />
line a broad driveway<br />
leading to a turreted Queen Annestyle<br />
hotel where croquet players,<br />
dressed in regulation whites, practice<br />
their sport at a resort that was the<br />
winter retreat for families like the<br />
Goulds, Vanderbilts, Morgans, and<br />
Rockefellers. I was certain there was<br />
an early AM landscaping crew fluffing<br />
the moss to make it look just so.<br />
Not so. Jekyll Island’s historic district is<br />
always a picturesque time warp, just waiting<br />
for Julian Fellowes to script season 4 of The<br />
Gilded Age and send Bertha and the gang<br />
to vacation here in the winter instead of<br />
summering in Newport. Just a thought.<br />
The Jekyll Island Club is the centerpiece of<br />
the historic district where guests can peek<br />
at rescued sea turtles being rehabilitated at<br />
the Georgia Sea Turtle Center, take a trolley<br />
tour of some of the restored cottages, and<br />
visit the island’s history museum, Mosaic,<br />
that tells the tales of this barrier island about<br />
2 hours south of Savannah and 1 hour north<br />
of Jacksonville.<br />
History was made here as the world’s<br />
wealthiest gathered with their families<br />
year after year starting in 1888 and today<br />
guests can live out their own Gilded<br />
Age fantasies in 159 guest rooms and<br />
suites, including three original “cottages”,<br />
southern estate homes by today’s<br />
standards, all recently renovated to reflect<br />
a 1920s coastal vibe. Sip cocktails or a<br />
refreshing sweet tea on the sprawling<br />
verandas or dine like Alma Vanderbilt<br />
(minus the corsets, crinolines, and<br />
bustles) in the magnificent Grand Dining<br />
Room with its custom carpet highlighting<br />
the island’s native flora and fauna.<br />
Arriving at the Jekyll Island Club, with<br />
its 19th-century architecture, sweeping<br />
lawns, riverfront location, and ancient<br />
live oaks is like being on a movie set.<br />
50<br />
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Multi-gen traditions like special occasion teas are a staple<br />
at the Jekyll Island Club Grand Dining Room.<br />
each lovers can enjoy a stay at the<br />
Island Club’s sister resort, the Jekyll<br />
Ocean Club, with its 40 oceanfront<br />
suites, beachfront pool, and openair<br />
beachfront restaurant. Yoga<br />
from the sky deck or s’mores around<br />
the firepit gives guests the relaxation they crave day or<br />
night. Island Club guests can hop a complimentary<br />
shuttle to the Ocean Club where chair and umbrella<br />
set-ups are included as part of the resort fee and beach<br />
treats are on offer daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.<br />
The sisters offer guests reciprocity, making it easy to<br />
enjoy the services and amenities of both resorts simply<br />
by hopping the shuttle.<br />
Dining options include Eighty Ocean Kitchen and Bar<br />
at the Ocean Club, which serves Lowcountry cuisine<br />
with an upscale feel. The restaurant’s garage doors<br />
open to catch cool ocean breezes and make it easy<br />
to grab a cold brew or umbrella drink while hanging<br />
poolside. Guests can also rent a poolside cabana for<br />
the day and catch a game on the 55-inch TV or enjoy a<br />
fridge full of their favorite refreshers.<br />
he Wharf, located on the riverfront at the<br />
Island Club is an up-casual seafood camp<br />
where local oysters on the half, and an<br />
authentic Lowcountry boil are the stars of the<br />
show. Every night, guests toast the sunset<br />
with a Green Flash, a signature cocktail mixed<br />
to celebrate the natural phenomenon of the same name, and<br />
one lucky guest gets to ring the ship’s bell signaling the end of<br />
another perfect island day. Also at the club, guests barely must<br />
leave their chaise lounge thanks to the beach bites on offer at<br />
the pool house and the Pantry is always open for coffee, ice<br />
cream quick meals, sandwiches, and baked goods. Be sure<br />
to take a giant chocolate, chocolate chip cookie back to your<br />
room. You’ll thank me.<br />
And finally - - don’t miss the champagne sabering weekends on<br />
the verandah. Yes, the resort’s beverage staff open champagne<br />
the old-fashioned way - - with a sword. (Check for times)<br />
For those who prefer something sweet at the end of their<br />
jousting equipment, there’s always the s’mores bar, set up like<br />
a charcuterie station with every possible meltable, graham<br />
crackers and marshmallows on skewers.<br />
It’s these unexpected delights, the club’s casual elegance, and<br />
its family-friendly amenities that make the Island and Ocean<br />
Clubs favorites for family and multi-gen vacations. Whether<br />
it’s a round of golf, a family bike ride, a day at the beach, or a<br />
book in the shade, there’s something for everyone.<br />
Does this bar look familiar? It was originally used in the<br />
movie, “The Legend of Baggar Vance” which was filmed on<br />
Jekyll Island and at the Jekyll Island Club.<br />
The Jekyll Ocean Club offers guest doorstep beach access<br />
and infinite ocean views from every suite.e.<br />
Bike rentals from Jekyll Wheels, located at the Jekyll<br />
Island Club, and 18+ miles of bike trails make familyfriendly<br />
adventure a daily possibility. Be sure to ask<br />
for the scavenger hunt map and the Wildlife Memory<br />
Safari Match Game for extra fun and learning.<br />
Those same crowd-pleasing surprises make The Island Club a<br />
popular meeting and destination wedding venue. Brides love<br />
the Southern charm of a wedding under the live oaks and revel<br />
in the resort’s timeless elegance. Guests especially appreciate<br />
the no-passport required convenience. The resort’s three<br />
cottages can serve as private retreats, equipped with guest<br />
rooms and gathering spaces for the two families, while wedding<br />
guests have a selection of rooms and suites at the two clubs.<br />
The Club’s sweeping verandas are home to weekend<br />
champagne sabering and endless hours of relaxation.<br />
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Nothing says making memories quite like s’mores around the<br />
fire and the Jekyll Island Club makes it extra special with a<br />
s’moresgasbord of meltable toppings. Don’t blame them if you<br />
have to up your game at home.<br />
The Jekyll Island Club’s recent renovation transformed the resort’s vibe from it’s late 19th century origins to Gilded Age<br />
glamour with vivid colors, and natural influences like the flora and fauna embroidery seen on the guest room headboards.<br />
The deluxe clubhouse room offers sunroom-style seating and be sure to look for the stuffed turtle on your bed, a reminder<br />
of the island’s dedication to the rescue and rehab of sea turtles at the nearby Georgia Sea Turtle Center.<br />
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The Courtyard of Crane Cottage is a prized spot for receptions and celebrations. The cottage itself, with generous<br />
living space and private guest rooms, is a favorite for wedding groups, corporate retreats, and family reunions.<br />
(Can use this caption to go with the courtyard and the Crane meeting room)<br />
eeting planners appreciate the resort’s versatility. Those<br />
“cottage” mansions are perfect hideouts for planners,<br />
sponsors, or VIPs. Golf, tennis, boating, and fishing<br />
provide plenty of recreation and social networking<br />
opportunities while the resort’s flexible meeting space<br />
ensures that the business events are perfectly presented.<br />
Beyond the Jekyll Island Club, where Nelson Aldrich and other notable<br />
bankers secretly met to form the Federal Reserve, the island is a history<br />
buff ’s paradise. The Wanderer, the last slave ship to land in Georgia, is<br />
memorialized at a UNESCO “Site of Memory” exhibit on St. Andrews Beach<br />
which later became the first public beach in Georgia that was accessible to<br />
African American Visitors. A decade later, B.B. King and others played AND<br />
STAYED at the Dolphin Club a beachfront resort that was part of the Chitlin<br />
Circuit that showcased black entertainers to black audiences.<br />
Summon your inner turn-of-the-century mogul with views of all you survey from the Presidential suite,<br />
complete with a turret balcony and telescope. That balcony is also a perfect spot for bridal bouquet tossing.<br />
n the other end of the beach, guests find a visit to Driftwood Beach on the<br />
must-do list. This ancient maritime forest has been claimed by the sea,<br />
and today, even the most challenged photographers find it hard to take a<br />
bad photo on this eerily majestic stretch of beach. Don’t be surprised if<br />
you happen upon a small wedding group or families taking their holiday<br />
card pictures. Driftwood Beach has been recognized by Conde Nast, Trip<br />
Advisor, and others as a top beach in the US.<br />
It's important to note that Jekyll Island is not another crowded beach resort like so many<br />
others up and down the eastern seaboard. Jekyll Island is a state park and by law, 66 percent<br />
of the island must remain undeveloped and preserved for nature and the 33% available for<br />
development is already built. Beachcombers can walk for miles and barely encounter a<br />
soul. Bicycling is a perfectly safe means of transportation. There’s plenty to do - - or not.<br />
Or as one book about the island calls it - -<br />
Splendid Isolation.<br />
For more information: www.jekyllclub.com<br />
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Multi-gen traditions like special occasion teas are a staple<br />
at the Jekyll Island Club Grand Dining Room.<br />
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The GREEN FLASH cocktail commemorates the meteorological optical<br />
phenomena that sometimes occurs around the moment of sunset or sunrise<br />
and can often be seen from the Jekyll Island Club’s Wharf restaurant.<br />
Jekyll island club becomes Mystic Manor October 4 – 6<br />
with a wicked weekend like none other. Guest ghouls will enjoy a murder mystery dinner<br />
in the grand dining room, a haunted trolley tour through the ancient grounds of the historic<br />
district and wrap up with fiendishly fabulous Sunday brunch. Don’t miss out on the manor’s<br />
signature spooky cocktails, and if they make you feel like howling at the moon - - well - - you<br />
might not be the only one.<br />
Spooky Cocktails<br />
Witching Hour Negroni: A dark and moody twist on the classic Negroni<br />
with Scapegrace black gin, Bitter Truth EXR liqueur, Antica Killer Rio, and grapefruit bitters,<br />
finished with a torched dehydrated orange wheel.<br />
Undead Zombie Cocktail: A powerful rum blend of Jamaican, Puerto Rican<br />
gold, and 151-proof demerara rum, balanced with lime juice, Don’s mix, falernum, and<br />
grenadine, finished with a mint sprig.<br />
Vampire’s Kiss Margarita: Blanco tequila shaken with fresh lime juice<br />
and simple syrup, topped with a blood-red wine float, and garnished with a lime wheel.<br />
Blood Moon Mary: Black vodka meets Agalima Bloody Mary Mix, spiced with<br />
Tajin, and garnished with a mix of candied bacon, gummy eyeball candies, pickled hot<br />
peppers, cocktail sausages, and celery for a spooky twist on the classic.<br />
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