On the Trail of Mary Queen of Scots by J Keith Cheetham sampler
Life dealt Mary Queen of Scots love, intensity, betrayal and tragedy in generous measure. On the Trail of Mary Queen of Scots traces the major events in the turbulent life of the beautiful, enigmatic queen whose romantic reign and tragic destiny exerts an undimmed fascination. Here is the essential guide to over 200 Mary Queen of Scots sites of interest in Scotland, England and France. It is fully illustrated with maps and plans and clearly shows the best tour routes, region by region. Sites to visit in Scotland include: Linlithgow Palace - Mary's birthplace, now a magnificent ruin.; Stirling Castle - where, only nine months old, Mary was crowned Queen of Scotland; The Palace of Holyrood House - Rizzio, one of Mary's many lovers, was murdered here - some say his blood still stains the spot where he was stabbed to death; and Fotheringay - after 16 years' imprisonment, Mary met her death on the executioner's block.
Life dealt Mary Queen of Scots love, intensity, betrayal and tragedy in generous measure. On the Trail of Mary Queen of Scots traces the major events in the turbulent life of the beautiful, enigmatic queen whose romantic reign and tragic destiny exerts an undimmed fascination. Here is the essential guide to over 200 Mary Queen of Scots sites of interest in Scotland, England and France. It is fully illustrated with maps and plans and clearly shows the best tour routes, region by region. Sites to visit in Scotland include: Linlithgow Palace - Mary's birthplace, now a magnificent ruin.; Stirling Castle - where, only nine months old, Mary was crowned Queen of Scotland; The Palace of Holyrood House - Rizzio, one of Mary's many lovers, was murdered here - some say his blood still stains the spot where he was stabbed to death; and Fotheringay - after 16 years' imprisonment, Mary met her death on the executioner's block.
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keith cheetham was born in Sheffield in 1937. His boundless enthusiasm<br />
about <strong>the</strong> life <strong>of</strong> <strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> was sparked <strong>of</strong>f in 1970<br />
when, as a Member <strong>of</strong> Sheffield Junior Chamber <strong>of</strong> Commerce, he was<br />
given <strong>the</strong> task <strong>of</strong> organising a <strong>Mary</strong>, <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> Festival. In 1974<br />
he was appointed as Sheffield’s first Conference and Tourist Officer. In<br />
1988 <strong>Keith</strong> set up a unit to market and develop England’s Black<br />
Country as a tourist destination, a post he held until 1997 when he<br />
formed his own tourism consultancy, based in Wolverhampton.<br />
His creative initiatives in <strong>the</strong> tourist field have gained him wide<br />
recognition. <strong>On</strong>e <strong>of</strong> his most controversial was in 1982 when he promoted<br />
<strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> <strong>by</strong> organising a procession along<br />
Edinburgh’s Royal Mile from <strong>the</strong> Castle to <strong>the</strong> Palace <strong>of</strong><br />
Holyroodhouse. <strong>Mary</strong> was played <strong>by</strong> a tourist guide from Sheffield<br />
accompanied <strong>by</strong> <strong>Keith</strong> in <strong>the</strong> role <strong>of</strong> her longest-serving custodian, <strong>the</strong><br />
6th Earl <strong>of</strong> Shrewsbury. This event attracted wide publicity and <strong>Keith</strong><br />
was dubbed <strong>by</strong> <strong>the</strong> media ‘<strong>the</strong> man who sold <strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> to<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Scots</strong>’.<br />
A playwright and regular broadcaster on bbc Radio, he is author<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> book <strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> – The Captive Years. He is chairman<br />
<strong>of</strong> an English branch <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Marie Stuart Society and has helped<br />
many tourist centres with information on <strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong>. With<br />
his wide knowledge <strong>of</strong> <strong>Mary</strong> and <strong>the</strong> many sites associated with her<br />
in England, Scotland and France, he tells her story in uncomplicated<br />
style and clarifies many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> myths that have grown up around her.
Books in <strong>the</strong> Luath <strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> series<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> Bonnie Prince Charlie<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Holy Grail<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> John Muir<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> John Wesley<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> King Arthur<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong><br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pilgrim Fa<strong>the</strong>rs<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> Victoria in <strong>the</strong> Highlands<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> Scotland’s History<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> Robert Burns<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> Robert Service<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> Robert <strong>the</strong> Bruce<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> Scotland’s Myths and Legends<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> William Shakespeare<br />
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong> William Wallace
<strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong><br />
J. KEITH CHEETHAM<br />
Luath Press Limited<br />
EDINBURGH<br />
www.luath.co.uk
This book is dedicated to my late parents,<br />
Ruth and John <strong>Cheetham</strong>, who made everything possible for me.<br />
First Edition 1999<br />
Reprinted 2000, 2005, 2006, 2013, 2018<br />
This Edition 2024<br />
isbn: 978-1-913025-11-3<br />
The paper used in this book is recyclable. It is made from<br />
low-chlorine pulps produced in a low-energy, low-emission<br />
manner from renewable forests.<br />
Printed and bound <strong>by</strong><br />
Hobbs <strong>the</strong> Printers Ltd., Totton<br />
Typeset in 10.5 point Sabon<br />
The author’s right to be identified as author <strong>of</strong> this book under <strong>the</strong><br />
Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 has been asserted.<br />
© J. <strong>Keith</strong> <strong>Cheetham</strong>
Ride on, ride on in majesty!<br />
In lowly pomp ride on to die;<br />
Bow Thy meek head to mortal pain,<br />
Then take, O God, Thy power, and reign.<br />
Henry Hart Milman, 1791-1868
Acknowledgements<br />
During <strong>the</strong> research, writing and compilation <strong>of</strong> this book, I have<br />
received an enormous amount <strong>of</strong> help, guidance and assistance from<br />
many people and organisations. I would like to single out, in particular,<br />
just a few who have given much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir time to help and, without whose<br />
wise counselling, factual information or checking <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> manuscript, I<br />
could never have completed <strong>the</strong> job.<br />
I owe a special debt <strong>of</strong> appreciation to <strong>the</strong> following friends in <strong>the</strong><br />
Marie Stuart Society – Lilian Cameron, Lola and Norman Cash, Audrey<br />
Cartwright, Joy Childs, Margaret Lumsdaine, Myra McLanaghan,<br />
Ronald Morrison, Julie Pollard, and both Pauline and Syd Whitehead.<br />
For additional information on France, I should like to thank Peter<br />
Wigley, who first opened <strong>the</strong> doors for my career in <strong>the</strong> tourist industry,<br />
and John Morgan. For information on Dragsholm Castle in Denmark, I<br />
am indebted to Annette V. Petersen and Niels Christian Ewald; and to<br />
Adrian Durkin on Dudley Castle. O<strong>the</strong>rs who have helped include Jill<br />
Fulton, Judith Sleigh, Anne I. Taylor, Roger Gilbride, John Pearson and<br />
Douglas Taylor.<br />
The following bodies have also given me every co-operation –<br />
Churches Conservation Trust; Coventry, Oundle and Stamford Tourist<br />
Information Centres; Historic Scotland; Scottish Tourist Board; Clergy<br />
and Staff <strong>of</strong> Peterborough Ca<strong>the</strong>dral; Sheffield City Libraries – Local<br />
Studies Section; Staffordshire Record Office; and Wolverhampton<br />
Reference Library.<br />
I am also indebted to earlier authors on <strong>the</strong> subject, in particular<br />
Lady Antonia Fraser, <strong>the</strong> Duke <strong>of</strong> Hamilton and Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Gordon<br />
Donaldson who have given me inspiration through <strong>the</strong>ir own authorative<br />
works.<br />
Finally, I should like to single out my colleague, David Middleton, for<br />
his line drawings; Jim Lewis, cartographer; Catriona Scott, editor; Tom<br />
Bee <strong>of</strong> RedLetter; and my publishers at Luath Press Limited, Audrey and<br />
Gavin MacDougall, who have given me unstinting support and encouragement.<br />
vi
Contents<br />
Index Map<br />
Map a – Edinburgh Old Town<br />
Map b – Edinburgh, Lowlands and Nor<strong>the</strong>rn Scotland<br />
Map c – West and South West Scotland and West Cumbria<br />
Map d – Nor<strong>the</strong>rn France<br />
Map e – Scottish Borders and Nor<strong>the</strong>rn England<br />
Map f – Central and Sou<strong>the</strong>rn England<br />
Foreword<br />
Introduction<br />
Family tree <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Royal Houses <strong>of</strong> Tudor and Stewart<br />
ix<br />
xi<br />
xii<br />
xiv<br />
xvi<br />
xvii<br />
xviii<br />
xxi<br />
xxiii<br />
xxv<br />
chapter 1 Fateful Dynasty 1<br />
chapter 2 Early Years 8<br />
chapter 3 France 18<br />
chapter 4 <strong>Queen</strong> Consort 29<br />
chapter 5 Scotland Again 40<br />
chapter 6 Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley 57<br />
chapter 7 David Rizzio 73<br />
chapter 8 Murder Most Foul 79<br />
vii
chapter 9 James Hepburn, 4th Earl <strong>of</strong> Bothwell 94<br />
chapter 10 James vi <strong>of</strong> Scotland 104<br />
chapter 11 England and Captivity 114<br />
chapter 12 The Shrewsbury Years 123<br />
chapter 13 The Ridolfi Plot 134<br />
chapter 14 The Babington Plot 147<br />
chapter 15 Fo<strong>the</strong>ringhay 155<br />
chapter 16 Requiem for a <strong>Queen</strong> 163<br />
Useful addresses 174<br />
Bibliography 176<br />
viii
INDEX MAP<br />
Map B<br />
Kilometres<br />
0 50 100 150<br />
0 20 40 60 80 100<br />
Miles<br />
Map A<br />
(Edinburgh Old Town)<br />
Map C<br />
Map F<br />
Map E<br />
Map D<br />
ix
Abbreviations<br />
CCT<br />
EH<br />
HS<br />
LT<br />
NTS<br />
NT<br />
The Churches Conservation Trust<br />
English Heritage<br />
Historic Scotland<br />
The Landmark Trust<br />
National Trust for Scotland<br />
National Trust – England<br />
Addresses for <strong>the</strong> above organisations can be found on pages 174 and 175.<br />
The page number given for each site on <strong>the</strong> maps which follow is <strong>the</strong> first page on<br />
which reference is made to <strong>the</strong> site.<br />
x
HOWE STREET<br />
R<br />
D<br />
C A N O N<br />
E<br />
MAP A Edinburgh Old Town<br />
Ref Page<br />
Ref Page<br />
A1<br />
A1 Edinburgh<br />
Edinburgh<br />
Castle<br />
Castle<br />
HS<br />
HS 34<br />
A2 A2 High High Kirk Kirk <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> St. St Giles Giles 45<br />
A3 A3 National National Library Library <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> Scotland Scotland 175<br />
A4 A4 Museum <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> Scotland 170<br />
A5 Royal Museum <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> Scotland 175<br />
A6 John Knox's Knox’s House 45<br />
A7 Canongate Kirk and Cemetery 76<br />
A8 Palace <strong>of</strong> Holyroodhouse 2<br />
A9 Holyrood Abbey 9<br />
A10 Scottish National Portrait Gallery,<br />
<strong>Queen</strong> Street 171<br />
HANOVER STREET DUNDAS STREET<br />
ROYAL CIRCUS<br />
MORAY<br />
PLACE<br />
Q U E E N S T R E E T YORK PLACE<br />
A10<br />
CASTLE STREET<br />
CHARLOTTE<br />
ST<br />
ANDREW<br />
SQUARE<br />
G E O R G E S T R E E T<br />
SQUARE<br />
100 200 300 400 500 metres<br />
0<br />
0 100 200 300 400 500 yards<br />
P R I N C E S S T R E E T WATERLOO<br />
P L A CE<br />
I L L<br />
E G E N T R O A D<br />
Calton Hill<br />
T H E<br />
Y H<br />
E<br />
WAVERLEY BRIDGE<br />
M<br />
B<br />
C<br />
B<br />
A<br />
L T O<br />
A<br />
MARKET ST<br />
R O<br />
N<br />
O U N D<br />
EAST MARKET ST<br />
C O<br />
A<br />
A7<br />
ATE<br />
J E F F R E Y ST<br />
C K B URN<br />
G<br />
H I G H S T R E E T<br />
A6<br />
ST<br />
CASTLEHILL<br />
A9<br />
K I N G S S T A B L E S<br />
ST MARY ST<br />
GEORGE IV BRIDGE<br />
T E R R A C E<br />
S T O N<br />
J O H<br />
A8<br />
N<br />
R<br />
O A D<br />
C O W G A<br />
GR A S S M A RK E T<br />
S P I T T A L S T<br />
LOTHIAN ROAD<br />
T E<br />
R O A D<br />
NORTH BRIDGE SOUTH BRIDGE<br />
West Princes Street Gardens<br />
Waverley<br />
Station<br />
The Castle<br />
A1<br />
A3 A2<br />
Palace <strong>of</strong><br />
Holyrood<br />
House<br />
O O<br />
H O L Y R<br />
T<br />
E S T P R O W<br />
BREAD ST<br />
D<br />
I V<br />
S D R<br />
North<br />
h<br />
CHAMBERS ST<br />
E E N<br />
Q U<br />
A5<br />
A4<br />
xi
MAP B Edinburgh, Lowlands and North East<br />
B62<br />
B61<br />
B59<br />
B60<br />
Inverness<br />
B58<br />
B57<br />
B56<br />
Elgin<br />
B55<br />
0<br />
Kilometres<br />
10 20 30<br />
0 10 20<br />
Miles<br />
B54<br />
Inverurie<br />
Aviemore<br />
Aberdeen<br />
Newtonmore<br />
Braemar<br />
B53<br />
Banchory<br />
B51<br />
B52<br />
B47<br />
B50<br />
Pitlochry<br />
B48<br />
C1<br />
B23<br />
B24<br />
Glasgow<br />
B22<br />
B25<br />
Stirling<br />
Cumbernauld<br />
Hamilton<br />
B41<br />
B21<br />
B20<br />
Crieff<br />
B42<br />
B26<br />
B43<br />
B40<br />
B39<br />
Falkirk<br />
B19<br />
B18<br />
B46<br />
B27<br />
Perth<br />
B44<br />
B36<br />
B31<br />
B37<br />
B38<br />
B30<br />
Kirkcaldy<br />
Dunfermline<br />
B29<br />
B28<br />
Peebles<br />
F i r t h<br />
o<br />
f<br />
Edinburgh<br />
Dundee<br />
F o r<br />
F i r t h<br />
B17<br />
B1<br />
B2 B7<br />
Livingston B3 B8<br />
B4<br />
B16<br />
B15<br />
Coupar Angus<br />
B34<br />
B45<br />
B14<br />
B35<br />
B33<br />
B32<br />
t h<br />
B6<br />
B5<br />
<strong>of</strong> Ta y<br />
St Andrews<br />
B10<br />
B49<br />
B9<br />
B11<br />
B13<br />
Galashiels<br />
E4 E2<br />
Dunbar<br />
E1<br />
B12<br />
Berwick-<br />
upon-<br />
Tweed<br />
xii
Edinburgh, Lowlands and North East<br />
Key to Map B<br />
Ref Page Ref Page<br />
B1 Leith/Andrew Lamb’s<br />
House 15<br />
B2 Craigmillar Castle HS 92<br />
B3 Battle <strong>of</strong> Carberry Hill site 101<br />
B4 Borthwick Castle 63<br />
B5 Cakemuir Castle 100<br />
B6 Crichton Castle 70<br />
B7 Seton House & Collegiate<br />
College HS 85<br />
B8 Lennoxlove 170<br />
B9 Hailes Castle 99<br />
B10 Tantallon Castle HS 92<br />
B11 Dunbar Castle 85<br />
B12 Coldingham Priory 70<br />
B13 Hume Castle 92<br />
B14 Traquair House 88<br />
B15 Neidpath Castle 63<br />
B16 Rosslyn Castle/Rosslyn<br />
Chapel 63<br />
B17 Niddry Castle 109<br />
B18 Linlithgow Palace HS and<br />
Kirk <strong>of</strong> St Michael 8<br />
B19 Callendar House 65<br />
B20 Craignethan Castle HS 110<br />
B21 Cadzow Castle/Hamilton<br />
Castle 109<br />
B22 Battle <strong>of</strong> Langside site/<br />
Cathcart Castle 110<br />
B23 Crookston Castle 95<br />
B24 Provands Lordship/<br />
Glasgow Castle 95<br />
B25 Stirling Castle HS /Church<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Holy Rude/Argyll’s<br />
Lodging HS 13<br />
B26 Alloa Tower NTS 88<br />
B27 Dunfermline Palace and<br />
Abbey HS 69<br />
B28 North <strong>Queen</strong>sferry 50<br />
B29 Rossend Castle 58<br />
B30 Wemyss Castle 68<br />
B31 Lundin Tower 68<br />
B32 St Andrews Ca<strong>the</strong>dral and<br />
Castle HS 44<br />
B33 Earlshall Castle 48<br />
B34 Balmerino Abbey 68<br />
B35 Collairnie Castle 68<br />
B36 Falkland Palace NTS 9<br />
B37 Leslie Castle 47<br />
B38 Loch Leven Castle HS 59<br />
B39 Castle Campbell HS 58<br />
B40 Tullibardine 58<br />
B41 Drummond Castle 95<br />
B42 Innerpeffray Abbey 65<br />
B43 Huntingtower Castle<br />
(Ruthven Castle) HS 65<br />
B44 Perth 45<br />
B45 Dundee 48<br />
B46 Dunkeld 65<br />
B47 Blair Castle 66<br />
B48 Glamis Castle 51<br />
B49 Arbroath Abbey HS 55<br />
B50 Edzell Castle HS 52<br />
B51 Dunnottar Castle 52<br />
B52 Aberdeen 51<br />
B53 Battle <strong>of</strong> Corrichie site 54<br />
B54 Huntly Castle HS 55<br />
B55 Balvenie Castle HS 54<br />
B56 Elgin Ca<strong>the</strong>dral HS 54<br />
B57 Spynie Palace HS 54<br />
B58 Darnaway Castle 53<br />
B59 Kilravock Castle 53<br />
B60 Inverness 53<br />
B61 Beauly Priory 66<br />
B62 Dingwall 66<br />
xiii
MAP C West and South West Scotland and West Cumbria<br />
B46<br />
B48<br />
B45<br />
C3<br />
Dunoon<br />
C4<br />
C5<br />
e<br />
d<br />
y<br />
Greenock<br />
C2<br />
Dumbarton<br />
B23 B24<br />
Glasgow<br />
Paisley<br />
B23<br />
Largs<br />
B22<br />
Irvine<br />
Troon<br />
Tarbet<br />
C6<br />
Crianlarich<br />
C1<br />
Kilmarnock<br />
East Kilbride<br />
Perth<br />
B43<br />
B44<br />
B34<br />
B41<br />
B42<br />
B35<br />
B40<br />
B36 B31<br />
B39<br />
B37<br />
B38<br />
B25<br />
B30<br />
B26<br />
Kirkcaldy<br />
Stirling<br />
B27<br />
Dunfermline<br />
B29<br />
Dunfermline<br />
Falkirk<br />
B28<br />
Edinburgh<br />
B19<br />
Cumbernauld<br />
B18 B17<br />
B1<br />
B2 B7<br />
B3 Livingston<br />
B4<br />
B21<br />
B16<br />
B20<br />
Lanark<br />
Biggar<br />
B15<br />
Peebles<br />
B14<br />
B5<br />
l<br />
C<br />
Ayr<br />
C7<br />
h<br />
f<br />
o<br />
C8<br />
New Cumnock<br />
C23<br />
F<br />
t<br />
r<br />
i<br />
Girvan<br />
Sanquhar<br />
C22<br />
M<strong>of</strong>fat<br />
E5<br />
C9<br />
C10<br />
New Galloway<br />
C13<br />
Dumfries<br />
C20<br />
C21<br />
C24<br />
Stranraer<br />
C11<br />
C12<br />
Newton Stewart<br />
Castle Douglas<br />
C15<br />
Kirkcudbright<br />
C14<br />
C16<br />
C17<br />
Carlisle<br />
E6<br />
0<br />
Kilometres<br />
10 20 30<br />
0 10 20<br />
Miles<br />
C18<br />
Workington<br />
C19<br />
xiv
West and South West Scotland and West Cumbria<br />
Key to Map C<br />
Ref<br />
Page<br />
C1 Inchmahome Priory HS 15<br />
C2 Dumbarton Castle HS 17<br />
C3 Inverary Castle 60<br />
C4 Dunoon Castle 61<br />
C5 Toward Castle 61<br />
C6 Eglington Castle 61<br />
C7 Ayr 61<br />
C8 Dunure Castle 61<br />
C9 Ardmillan House 61<br />
C10 Ardstinchar 61<br />
C11 Glenluce Abbey HS 62<br />
C12 Whithorn Priory HS 62<br />
C13 Kenmure Castle 62<br />
C14 St <strong>Mary</strong>’s Isle 62<br />
C15 Kirkcudbright 62<br />
C16 Dundrennan Abbey HS 111<br />
C17 Port <strong>Mary</strong> 112<br />
C18 Workington Hall 115<br />
C19 Cockermouth Hall 116<br />
C20 Terregles Castle 62<br />
C21 Lochmaben Castle 75<br />
C22 Drumlanrig Castle 62<br />
C23 Sanquhar Castle 111<br />
C24 Battle <strong>of</strong> Solway Moss site 9<br />
xv
MAP D Nor<strong>the</strong>rn France<br />
Ref Ref Page Exeter Page Ref Ref Southampton Page Ref Ref Page<br />
Dover Oostende<br />
D1 D1 Rosc<strong>of</strong>f 18 D11 Anet D11 Anet<br />
23 D20 D20 Villers Côtterets 27<br />
D2 D2 Morlaix Plymouth 19 D12 St D12 Germaine-en-Laye St. Germain-en-Laye 19 D21 D21 Rheims 32 Dunkerque<br />
Calais<br />
D3 D3 Nantes 19 D13 Carrières D13 Carrières<br />
20 D22 D22 Brighton Vitry-le-Francois Vitry-le-François 37<br />
D4 D4 Amboise 33 D14 Meudon D14 Meudon<br />
22 D23 D23 St St. Dizier 37<br />
D29<br />
D5 D5 Chenonceau 22 D15 Notre Dl 5 Notre Dame Dame 27 D24 D24 Joinville 22<br />
Boulogne<br />
D6 D6 Chaumont 32 Ca<strong>the</strong>dral, Ca<strong>the</strong>dral, Paris Paris<br />
D25 D25 Nancy 37<br />
D7 D7 Chambord 19 D16 The D16 Louvre, The Louvre, Paris Paris 26 D26 D26 Beauvais 38<br />
D8 D8 Blois 19 D17 Ca<strong>the</strong>dral D17 Ca<strong>the</strong>dral <strong>of</strong> St <strong>of</strong> Denis St. Denis 30 D27 D27 Abbeville 38<br />
Béthune<br />
D9 D9 Orléans 35 D18 Écouen D18 Écouen<br />
170 D28 D28 Fécamp 34<br />
D10 D10 Fontainebleu 23 D19 Chantilly D19 Chantilly<br />
170 D29 D29 Calais 38 Abbeville<br />
D27 Arras<br />
Rosc<strong>of</strong>f<br />
Brest<br />
D1<br />
D2<br />
Morlaix<br />
Kilometres<br />
0 20 40 60 80<br />
0 10 20 30 40 50<br />
Miles<br />
Lorient<br />
St Brieuc<br />
Vannes<br />
St Malo<br />
St Nazaire<br />
Laval<br />
Châteaubriant<br />
Nantes Angers<br />
Cholet<br />
Tours<br />
Fécamp<br />
Quimper Chartres<br />
Alençon<br />
Rennes Mayenne<br />
Redon<br />
Granville<br />
D3<br />
Cherbourg<br />
Bayeux<br />
Caen<br />
Argentan<br />
D28<br />
Le Havre<br />
Lisieux<br />
Le Mans<br />
D4<br />
Amboise<br />
Chenonceaux<br />
D7<br />
Châtellerault<br />
Evreux<br />
D11<br />
D6<br />
D5<br />
Dieppe<br />
Rouen<br />
Paris<br />
D12-D18<br />
D9<br />
D8<br />
Chambord<br />
Blois<br />
Chaumont<br />
Amiens<br />
Beauvais<br />
Chantilly<br />
Louviers<br />
D10<br />
Orleans<br />
Vierzon<br />
D26<br />
Bourges<br />
Villers<br />
Côtterets<br />
D19<br />
Lille<br />
Brugge<br />
Zeebrugge<br />
Antwerp<br />
Gent Bruxelles<br />
St Quentin<br />
Charleville<br />
Mézières<br />
Rheims<br />
La Rochesur-Yon<br />
Chalonssur-Marne<br />
D22<br />
Vitry-le-François<br />
Fontainbleu D23 St. Dizier<br />
Troyes<br />
Joinville<br />
D24<br />
Auxerre<br />
D20<br />
Cambrai<br />
Avallon<br />
D21<br />
Maastricht<br />
Huy<br />
Verdun<br />
Dijon<br />
Eindhoven<br />
Liege<br />
Aachen<br />
Luxembourg<br />
Chaumont Vittel<br />
Langres<br />
Metz<br />
Nancy<br />
D25<br />
xvi
B13<br />
Galashiels<br />
E2 E1<br />
E3<br />
Jedburgh<br />
E4<br />
Hawick<br />
E5<br />
MAP E Scottish Borders and<br />
Nor<strong>the</strong>rn England<br />
Ref<br />
Page<br />
E1 Kelso Abbey 15<br />
E2 Dryburgh Abbey HS 15<br />
E3 Melrose Abbey HS 15<br />
E4 Jedburgh Abbey HS / <strong>Mary</strong><br />
<strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> House 15<br />
E5 Hermitage Castle HS 90<br />
E6 Carlisle Castle EH 116<br />
E7 Low<strong>the</strong>r Castle 119<br />
E8 Bolton Castle 119<br />
E9 York 120<br />
E10 Temple Newsam House 67<br />
Haydon<br />
Bridge<br />
Newcastle<br />
upon Tyne<br />
E6<br />
Carlisle<br />
Hartlepool<br />
Penrith<br />
E7<br />
Darlington<br />
Middlesborough<br />
Kendal<br />
E8<br />
Thirsk<br />
Ripon<br />
E9<br />
York<br />
Preston<br />
Bradford<br />
E10<br />
Leeds<br />
0<br />
Kilometres<br />
10 20 30<br />
0 10 20<br />
Miles<br />
xvii
MAP Map F Central and Sou<strong>the</strong>rn England<br />
Manchester<br />
Sheffield<br />
F1<br />
F2<br />
Ro<strong>the</strong>rham<br />
F8<br />
Buxton<br />
F7<br />
Matlock<br />
F5<br />
F6<br />
Chesterfield<br />
F3<br />
F4<br />
Lincoln<br />
Uttoxeter<br />
F12<br />
F16<br />
F13<br />
F10<br />
F11<br />
BIRMINGHAM<br />
Der<strong>by</strong><br />
F14<br />
F18<br />
F9<br />
Burtonupon-Trent<br />
F15<br />
Coventry<br />
Nottingham<br />
Leicester<br />
F19<br />
F20<br />
F24<br />
Stamford F23<br />
F21<br />
Oundle<br />
F22<br />
Peterborough<br />
F25<br />
F26<br />
Redditch<br />
Warwick<br />
F17<br />
Stratford-upon-Avon<br />
Milton Keynes<br />
Luton<br />
Oxford<br />
F27<br />
Hatfield<br />
LONDON<br />
O N<br />
F28<br />
0<br />
Kilometres<br />
10 20 30<br />
40 50<br />
0 10 20 30<br />
Miles<br />
xviii
Central and Sou<strong>the</strong>rn England<br />
Key to Map F<br />
Ref<br />
Page<br />
F1 Sheffield Ca<strong>the</strong>dral/ Sheffield Castle site 124<br />
F2 Sheffield Manor 135<br />
F3 Hardwick Hall NT / Hardwick Old Hall EH 123<br />
F4 Rufford Abbey 141<br />
F5 Dethick 147<br />
F6 Wingfield Manor EH 148<br />
F7 Chatsworth 130<br />
F8 Old Hall, Buxton 139<br />
F9 Der<strong>by</strong> 172<br />
F10 Tutbury Castle 123<br />
F11 Abbots Bromley 154<br />
F12 Chartley Castle and Manor 150<br />
F13 Tixall Gatehouse LT 152<br />
F14 Burton-upon-Trent 151<br />
F15 Ash<strong>by</strong> de la Zouch Castle EH 129<br />
F16 Dudley Castle 149<br />
F17 Coughton Court NT 168<br />
F18 St <strong>Mary</strong>’s Hall, Coventry 129<br />
F19 Leicester 154<br />
F20 Withcote Hall 154<br />
F21 Fo<strong>the</strong>ringhay – site <strong>of</strong> Castle 154<br />
F22 Talbot Hotel, Oundle 167<br />
F23 Burghley House 164<br />
F24 St Martin’s Church, Stamford 165<br />
F25 Peterborough Ca<strong>the</strong>dral 163<br />
F26 Conington Parish Church CCT 169<br />
F27 Hatfield House 169<br />
F28 Westminster Abbey and London sites 166<br />
x
Foreword<br />
as a boy in sheffield, I was <strong>of</strong>ten taken <strong>by</strong> my parents to visit<br />
my aunt and uncle who lived in Su<strong>the</strong>rland Road. This was situated<br />
in a steep valley in what was <strong>the</strong>n a heavily-industrialised<br />
area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> east end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city. Across <strong>the</strong> valley <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> River Don,<br />
on <strong>the</strong> hillside opposite, stands a building which my fa<strong>the</strong>r would<br />
always point out to me, saying, ‘That is Sheffield Manor where<br />
<strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> was kept a prisoner!’<br />
The first time I heard that statement, my interest was stirred.<br />
Why should a <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> Scotland be held prisoner in Sheffield? At<br />
that point, I had only vaguely heard her name in history lessons at<br />
Firs Hill Junior School which I attended. I asked fur<strong>the</strong>r questions<br />
and, to satisfy my curiosity, my fa<strong>the</strong>r produced a book on local<br />
history, The Story <strong>of</strong> Sheffield <strong>by</strong> John Derry, published in 1915.<br />
It contained a chapter entitled ‘Sheffield’s Historical Prisoner’<br />
which gave a brief account <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong>’ life leading up<br />
to her nineteen years <strong>of</strong> imprisonment in England. The publication<br />
was illustrated with drawings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> various sites where <strong>the</strong> royal<br />
prisoner was held.<br />
Over <strong>the</strong> years, my eagerness to discover more about this<br />
famous historical character grew, and it continued in manhood<br />
when, as a member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local Junior Chamber <strong>of</strong> Commerce,<br />
I was invited to organise a major civic event. This was to commemorate<br />
<strong>the</strong> 400th anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> arrival in Sheffield <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
captive <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> on 28 November 1570. I got toge<strong>the</strong>r a<br />
number <strong>of</strong> colleagues and, in <strong>the</strong> space <strong>of</strong> ten weeks, we arranged<br />
a <strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> festival.<br />
I got more and more absorbed in research on <strong>Mary</strong> and it<br />
became an obsession. Looking back, I can confidently claim that<br />
my love affair with <strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> has lasted most <strong>of</strong> my<br />
life. As her story has unfolded, I have followed her movements<br />
and, in <strong>the</strong> process, fallen in love with Scotland and its people.<br />
<strong>Mary</strong>’s tale is a tragic one. It has all <strong>the</strong> ingredients which<br />
encompass <strong>the</strong> very essence <strong>of</strong> an historical thriller – ambition,<br />
greed, power, violence, sex, lust, murder, love and hatred. Throw<br />
xxi
on <strong>the</strong> trail <strong>of</strong> mary queen <strong>of</strong> scots<br />
in a beautiful queen surrounded <strong>by</strong> dashing beaux, blood-thirsty<br />
criminals and treacherous women, and <strong>the</strong> cocktail is complete.<br />
The <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong>, from her birth at Linlithgow Palace on 8<br />
December 1542 to <strong>the</strong> time she met her death <strong>by</strong> <strong>the</strong> executioner’s<br />
axe at Fo<strong>the</strong>ringhay Castle on 8 February 1587, has fascinated<br />
millions <strong>of</strong> people down <strong>the</strong> years. What is so irresistibly magnetic<br />
about her that has attracted so much interest? Apart from her<br />
dynastic destiny and <strong>the</strong> turbulent events <strong>of</strong> her lifetime, her death<br />
left many questions unanswered. Most portraits <strong>of</strong> <strong>Mary</strong> give her<br />
an e<strong>the</strong>real or angelic appearance but <strong>the</strong>y do not really reflect <strong>the</strong><br />
truth. Nobody who reads <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> <strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> can<br />
fail to be astonished <strong>by</strong> some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> foolish, miscalculated and<br />
bloody events which surrounded and involved her.<br />
<strong>Mary</strong>’s life was one long roller coaster. She moved through a<br />
series <strong>of</strong> disasters from Scotland to France, back to Scotland again,<br />
and finally to England, where she spent so many long years <strong>of</strong><br />
imprisonment at <strong>the</strong> hands <strong>of</strong> her royal cousin, Elizabeth, <strong>the</strong><br />
English <strong>Queen</strong>.<br />
This book nei<strong>the</strong>r condones nor condemns, and I invite <strong>the</strong><br />
reader to join me on a journey where we set out to trace <strong>the</strong> events<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>Mary</strong>’s life and, along <strong>the</strong> way, visit many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> important sites<br />
associated with one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most beautiful, enigmatic, yet tragic <strong>of</strong><br />
queens ever to be recorded in Britain’s history books.<br />
J <strong>Keith</strong> <strong>Cheetham</strong><br />
May 1999<br />
xxii
Introduction<br />
so many questions were left unanswered after <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong>. Should she have stayed in France after her<br />
first husband, Francis ii, had died? Was she aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> plot to<br />
murder her second husband, Lord Darnley? Did <strong>the</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Scots</strong> write <strong>the</strong> incriminating Casket Letters or were <strong>the</strong>y forgeries?<br />
How could she, a Roman Catholic, have willingly agreed to<br />
take <strong>the</strong> divorced Earl <strong>of</strong> Bothwell as her third husband? And how<br />
deep was her involvement in <strong>the</strong> Babington Plot to murder <strong>Queen</strong><br />
Elizabeth and seize <strong>the</strong> English throne with <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> her<br />
Catholic supporters?<br />
<strong>Mary</strong> Stuart became <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> when she was only six<br />
days old and <strong>Queen</strong> Consort <strong>of</strong> France in her early teens. She also<br />
had a strong claim on <strong>the</strong> English throne which was occupied <strong>by</strong><br />
<strong>Queen</strong> Elizabeth. <strong>On</strong>e wonders what might have happened had<br />
England been ruled <strong>by</strong> <strong>Mary</strong> Stuart? Undoubtedly, <strong>the</strong> country<br />
would have reverted to Roman Catholicism as it had done earlier<br />
during <strong>the</strong> reign <strong>of</strong> <strong>Mary</strong> Tudor, half-sister to Elizabeth. For <strong>the</strong><br />
story <strong>of</strong> <strong>Mary</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> is not only about a power struggle<br />
between two <strong>Queen</strong>s – Elizabeth and <strong>Mary</strong> Stuart – it also had<br />
deep religious implications for <strong>the</strong> opposing Protestant and<br />
Roman Catholic faiths. In turn, <strong>the</strong>se had repercussions on <strong>the</strong><br />
Continent, and after <strong>Mary</strong>’s death this led to <strong>the</strong> attempted invasion<br />
<strong>of</strong> England <strong>by</strong> <strong>the</strong> Spaniards in August 1588.<br />
<strong>On</strong> fleeing from Scotland in 1568, would <strong>Mary</strong> have been better<br />
returning to France instead <strong>of</strong> throwing herself on Elizabeth’s<br />
mercy? It was only to prove an escape into fur<strong>the</strong>r captivity.<br />
<strong>Mary</strong>’s standing in France had become <strong>of</strong> no real consequence<br />
when, as Dowager <strong>Queen</strong> after <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong> her first husband,<br />
King Francis ii, she departed for Scotland in 1561. She was hated<br />
at <strong>the</strong> French court <strong>by</strong> her mo<strong>the</strong>r-in-law, Ca<strong>the</strong>rine de Medici,<br />
who seized power through her younger son, Charles ix, when he<br />
inherited <strong>the</strong> throne on his elder bro<strong>the</strong>r’s death. Perhaps <strong>Mary</strong><br />
<strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong> could have gone into semi-retirement under <strong>the</strong><br />
protection <strong>of</strong> her mo<strong>the</strong>r’s relatives, <strong>the</strong> powerful Guise family, or<br />
xxiii
on <strong>the</strong> trail <strong>of</strong> mary queen <strong>of</strong> scots<br />
confined herself in a convent <strong>of</strong> some religious order in France. If<br />
she had done <strong>the</strong> latter, she would undoubtedly have been able to<br />
live out her life in exile.<br />
Had discretion and common sense been two <strong>of</strong> her attributes,<br />
she might have survived. Unfortunately, <strong>the</strong>y were not, and she<br />
was carried along <strong>by</strong> <strong>the</strong> tide <strong>of</strong> life, forever clutching at straws in<br />
a fight for survival.<br />
It is perhaps ironic that, despite her unsuccessful bid to claim<br />
<strong>the</strong> English throne, it was her son, James vi <strong>of</strong> Scotland, who eventually<br />
united <strong>the</strong> two kingdoms <strong>of</strong> Scotland and England when he<br />
succeeded Elizabeth in 1603 as King James i <strong>of</strong> England.<br />
As we chart her progress and follow her trail from her birth at<br />
Linlithgow in 1542 to her death at Fo<strong>the</strong>ringhay in 1587, it is in<br />
places such as <strong>the</strong> Palace <strong>of</strong> Holyroodhouse, Edinburgh Castle,<br />
Stirling Castle, and Bolton Castle in Yorkshire’s Wensleydale that<br />
we best get a lingering sense <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> days when <strong>the</strong> <strong>Queen</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Scots</strong><br />
passed through <strong>the</strong>ir corridors. But <strong>the</strong>re are many more sites,<br />
occupied and unoccupied, intact and ruined where we may follow<br />
in her fascinating footsteps.<br />
xxiv
TUDOR henry vii king <strong>of</strong> england<br />
Founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Tudor Dynasty<br />
m.<br />
elizabeth <strong>of</strong> york<br />
STUART<br />
henry viii (1491-1547)<br />
m.<br />
(1) Ca<strong>the</strong>rine<br />
<strong>of</strong> Aragon<br />
m.<br />
(2) Anne Boleyn<br />
m.<br />
(3) Jane Seymour<br />
m.<br />
(4) Anne <strong>of</strong> Cleves<br />
(5) Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Howard<br />
(6) Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Parr<br />
margaret (1489-1541)<br />
m.<br />
(1) james iv <strong>of</strong> scotland<br />
(1473-1513)<br />
Stuart Dynasty<br />
m.<br />
(2) Archibald Douglas<br />
6th Earl <strong>of</strong> Angus<br />
m.<br />
(3) Henry Stewart,<br />
Lord Methven<br />
mary tudor<br />
(1515-1558)<br />
Reigned 1553-1558<br />
elizabeth I<br />
(1533-1603)<br />
Reigned 1558-1603<br />
edward vi<br />
(1537-1553)<br />
Reigned 1547-1553<br />
james v <strong>of</strong> scotland<br />
(1512-1542)<br />
m.<br />
mary <strong>of</strong> guise-lorraine<br />
(1515-1560)<br />
Margaret Douglas<br />
m.<br />
Mat<strong>the</strong>w, Earl <strong>of</strong> Lennox<br />
mary stuart, queen <strong>of</strong> scots<br />
(1542-1587)<br />
m.<br />
(1) francois ii <strong>of</strong> france<br />
(1544-1560)<br />
m.<br />
(2) Henry Stuart,<br />
Lord Darnley<br />
(1545-1567)<br />
Lord Charles Stuart,<br />
Earl <strong>of</strong> Lennox<br />
m.<br />
Elizabeth Cavendish<br />
m.<br />
(3) James Hepburn,<br />
Earl <strong>of</strong> Bothwell<br />
(1535-1578)<br />
Simplified tree showing relationship between<br />
<strong>Mary</strong> <strong>of</strong> Scotland and Elizabeth <strong>of</strong> England.<br />
james vi <strong>of</strong> scotland<br />
(later james 1 <strong>of</strong> england)<br />
(1566-1625)<br />
Arabella Stuart<br />
xxv
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