Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 36

Edition 36 - October 2024
Modern
sewing
starts here..
FEEL THE
DIFFERENCE!
Why the Pure Solids collection from
Art Gallery Fabrics is so popular with
sewers around the world!
FIND THE
PERFECT FABRIC
Cosy colourful fabrics for Autumn/Winter
STYLISH
project
Make an imitation leather bag
this autumn
PLUS
Tips & techniques for working
with this type of fabric
Sewing
Patterns
The latest Pattern Releases
The Best Trench Coat Patterns
& Must Make Bags
Brunswick Jacket from Liesl + Co
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk

Latest Releases
Pattern Finder
www.hantex.co.uk/patternfinder
Painter Jacket
Find the perfect pattern for your next project …
search by brand, garment type, fabric type, skill level or even season
Pattern Finder
Use the find a stockist facility to support independent retailers and designers

Editor’s Letter
Autumn is officially here, bringing with it the perfect time for
layering up and taking advantage of those crisp, sunny days. In this
edition, we’re featuring the latest sewing pattern releases to help
you refresh your wardrobe for the season. One trend that we love
is the classic trench coat, so we’re showcasing four stunning styles
you’ll want to sew.
Jacqui Smith also shares her tutorial on making a gorgeous silver
handbag, perfect for the current trend of metallics and imitation
leather. Plus, we’ve got top tips for sewing with imitation leather
and a roundup of must-make bag patterns.
Lastly, we caught up with Walter Bravo from Art Gallery Fabrics
to discuss their popular Pure Solids range and why these versatile
blenders are fast becoming a favourite among sewists worldwide!
Until next time, from the team at
Modern Sewing Starts Here
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
Subscribe and never miss the latest copy of Modern Sewing Starts Here - click here
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New apparel pattern releases for you to make!
STYLE ARC
The Atlas Woven Pant has a fitted waist and cropped loose fit
wide-leg with an unusual wide twisted pleat detail and side seam
pockets. This pattern is perfect for medium-weight woven cotton,
linen, and denim for autumn.
The Reynolds Woven Top is a relaxed fit top
with elbow-length raglan sleeves, which are
gathered into a neat band. It also has some
pretty details like an elastic neckline with a selffrill
split neck opening and a rouleau necktie.
The top sits comfortably at hip length making it
practical for many occasions. Sew in lightweight
fabrics like linen, rayon and cotton.
The Sabrina Dress is sleeveless and has shaped
bust cups and a double bodice. The highwaisted
gored skirt falls from under the bust to
offer a fit and flare style, which is ideal for linen,
crepe or a woven or sateen with a natural stretch.

The Clayton Shirt is such a versatile shirt and it can be
anything you like depending on the fabric you choose.
Make this shirt as a relaxed oversized shape shirt with a
back yoke and optional collars, sleeves and pockets or a
classic fit western style shirt with optional front and back
yokes, sleeves, collars, and pockets.
The Harry Woven Top/Dress features
an elastic feature on the body, dolman
sleeves with tucks and an elastic
opening. The dress is slightly A-line
and sits below the knee while the top
option sits at hip height. Make with a
round neck or a soft ‘V’ neck and add
a pretty back neck split opening with a
loop and button.
Style Arc sewing patterns come in sizes 4-16 and 18-30.
To view the full Style Arc range – click here

Grainline Studio
The Hadley Top is a drapey, fluid, sophisticated A-line top with two
necklines, two back options (pleated or straight) and the option
of either sleeveless or a long sleeve. Both are subtly geometric as
they have centre seams in front and back as well as a wide hem.
It’s now available in sizes 14-32 as well as 0-18. This top pattern is
ideal for light to medium-weight fabrics such as cotton, linen, silk,
rayon, voile and lawn.
To view this pattern and more from Grainline Studio - click here
Liesl + Co
The Brunswick Jacket is a functional, comfortable,
and stylish unlined cross between a jacket and a
cardigan that features raglan sleeves, convenient
on-seam front pockets, and a simple stand-up
collar style that can also be folded down to look
like a traditional collar with lapels. Choose from
two different lengths short (hip length) or medium
(below hip). With no closures, this style can go
anywhere.
The Isola Blouse + Dress is an elegant but
relaxed blouse or dress, which has gathers at
the neck, raglan sleeves, princess seams for
fit, and a simple keyhole closure at the back.
The blouse has a ruffle collar and full-length
sleeves with gathers at the wrist, while the
dress includes front pockets at the princess
seams, elbow-length gathered sleeves, and a
front waistband with an attached wraparound
belt.
The Tomigaya Dress is a classic shirt dress that
can be worn in multiple ways. The elastic waist
looks smocked and can be cinched with the
drawstring that ties in front. The bodice features
buttons halfway up the front and a classic collar
with a collar band. Choose from long sleeves
with a tower placket and button cuffs or short
sleeves with ruffle detail.
These patterns come in sizes 0-20 and include
A/B, C + D cup sizes. To view these sewing
patterns and more from Liesl + Co - click here

Friday Pattern Company
The Butano Shirt is an understated essential and
the ultimate workhorse for your wardrobe. This shirt
pattern has a relaxed fit with enough ease to feel
effortless without being entirely oversized. It comes
with options to be sewn with short sleeves or long
sleeves with a bound placket and cuff.
The Beachcomber Jacket is the perfect garment
for your outdoor adventures! This lined jacket has
patch pockets and options for a hood or collar and
the front fastens with snaps or buttons. The sleeve
hems are secured with elastic for a comfortable and
flexible fit while the hem is faced and slightly curved
for a cool look and feel.
The Rambler Pants pattern features a pull-on
trouser with an elastic waistband and built-in belt.
These trousers feature a faux fly and are slightly
tapered. Store all your goodies in the slanted side
pockets, and for a little extra carrying capacity
you’ve got fun patch pockets on the side seams.
The Friday Pattern Company patterns come in
sizes XS-7X. To view these and more from this
brand - click here
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand
or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

TRENDSETTER
The Trench Coat
CHILTON TRENCH COAT
THE ADA COAT
This classic single-breasted pattern is available in two hem
lengths with a belted waist and the option of a kick pleat.
Achieving the perfect fit is easy, thanks to sleek princess
seams and a comfortable two-part sleeve. Complete with a
two-part collar, cape, epaulettes, and double topstitching,
this pattern makes a brilliant cover-up! Available in sizes 12-
28 with cup sizes C-H.
To see more sewing patterns from Cashmerette - click here
This pattern has a subtle A-line shape with neat shoulders,
generous welt pockets, and a large collar. Its design includes
bust darts placed towards the neckline and at the centre
back. Add topstitching or go without for a sleek finish. This
pattern works with a range of fabrics from gabardine, wool
or a lightweight linen. Available in chest sizes 80-96cm and
96-116cm.
To see more patterns from Monsterfabriken - click here

Classic in a design, the Trench Coat has remained unchanged, and is effortlessly stylish, immensely
versatile, and practical to the core. It’s the perfect outer garment and must-have for this time of the year!
ISLA TRENCH
CORTLAND TRENCH
A timeless wardrobe staple!, this straight-cut, fully lined coat
pattern is packed with classic details like a belted collar, cape,
welt pockets, sleeve tabs, and a stylish belt. It also features a
back vent for easy movement and a double-breasted button
front, finished with sleek double topstitching for a polished,
iconic look. The pattern comes in sizes 4-28 (UK).
To view this pattern and others from Named Clothing
- click here
This pattern offers a fresh, modern twist with its stylish swing
shape and mid-hip length. Raglan sleeves allow for layering,
while storm flaps and a generous collar keep you protected
from the elements. Featuring a double-breasted closure,
roomy welt pockets, and professional details like Hong Kongbound
seams, it’s designed to last. Available in sizes 0-18
and 14-30.
To view this pattern and others from Grainline Studio
- click here

FEEL THE
DIFFERENCE!
We chat with Walter Bravo from Art Gallery Fabrics about the Pure Solids collection
and why it’s so popular with sewers around the world!
What is the Pure Solids range?
The Pure Solids collection is made from premium high-quality
cotton, with 205 thread count, making it lightweight and very
soft and perfect for all sorts of sewing projects!
Tell us a little about the quality of these fabrics
and what makes them so special?
All our fabrics are internationally Oeko-Tex certified, ensuring
the dyes that we use are the most environmentally safe in the
sewing and quilting industry.
The Pure Solids collection has an improved dip-dye
technique that creates vibrant, colourfast hues without the
need for pre-washing. What’s exciting is that the colour is just
as vivid on the back as it is on the front, making our solids
fully reversible! Because of this superior thread count - 133 x
72 compared to the industry average of 60 x 60. This cotton
fabric is super soft, stable hand with lower shrinkage (1-2%).
The fabric also has minimal fraying when its cut which means
neater sewing!
This collection is vast when it comes to colour,
what are the latest colours to be released?
With 203 shades available, there’s always a perfect match for
your project! We also have a colour-swatch card featuring all
the shades, making it even easier to match your fabrics.
What sorts of sewing projects can you make
with the Pure Solids collection?
Pure Solids are ideal for all types of sewing projects, quilts,
and crafts. They pair beautifully with our cotton prints or you
can use them on their own for a sleek, modern look. The
high thread count creates a silky feel, making them excellent
for sewing garments as well so this collection is really an allrounder!

MIX & MATCH & CONTRAST
Inspiration Board
To view the full collection of Pure Solids from Art Gallery Fabrics - click here

Focus on
FABRICS
An autumn palette of stripes and cosiness!
The latest fabrics from Modelo Fabrics:
Navy
Black
Natural
STRIPE VISCOSE LINEN SLUB
The Berkley collection is made from a blend of viscose, linen and polyester to
create a beautiful soft, drapey fabric with a stylish pinstripe. It’s ideal for making
stylish trousers, jumpsuits and dresses for the office.
Stripes are in and
trending this autumn
in every direction and
colour! Striped fabrics are
great for making blouses,
shirts and knit tops!
Lavender Denim Sand
Soft Green Taupe Grey
STRIPY VISCOSE
LINEN SLUB
The Carbury yarn-dyed range
is made from 55% linen and
45% cotton.
This range comes in 11
colourways in both the narrow
and wide stripe so there’s
always going to be the right
seasonal or on-trend colour
for your next sewing project.
To view the full fabric ranges from Modelo Fabrics - click here

Dark Plum
Cocoa
Claret
WASHED LINEN
Used traditionally as a summer fabric, this 100% washed
linen fabric is great for trousers, jackets, dresses and
just about any garment where a quality woven fabric
is required. The Carlow collection is made from 75%
Linen and 25% Cotton making it easy to care for and the
extended colours make it perfect all year round.
Sage Green
Sea Green
Copper
BRAY IS BACK BY
POPULAR DEMAND
The Bray collection of viscose
linen slub is back for this
autumn/winter with some
beautiful and stylish colourways.
It’s great for dresses, trouser
suits and blouses.
Sand
SOFT SWEATSHIRT
How luxurious is the new Cody collection of brushed-backed
sweatshirt fabric? It’s where style meets value and this extra wide yarndyed
sweatshirt fabric comes in four colourways so there will always be
a colour for your next garment.
Ochre
Tan/cream
Black/cream
Brick Library Petrol red/cream Hounds
Denim/cream
To view the full fabric ranges from Modelo Fabrics - click here

New fun fabric collections from Cloud9 Fabrics:
PLANTED
Designed by Betsy Siber, an illustrator and surface
designer from Chicago, this collection reflects
her quirky characters, bold mid-century-inspired
shapes and hand-drawn lines. The collection
celebrates the joy of making things grow with leafy
tones of green and potted plants.
Gridpoints
Autumn Cross Stitch
Branches
Overflow
Granny Squares
Mid-Century Acorn
AUTUMN WALK
This fabric collection will take us on a walk reflecting the leaf
colours that we expect to see in this changing season. See
the ferns beginning to dry and curl and the delicate spider
embroideries collecting the jewels of dew to name a few of the
lovely designs, and then return home to wrap yourself in a cosy
blanket in front of the fire and continue with your sewing!
CANYON BLOOMS
Take a trail hike around Southern California with Alison Janssen and her collection depicting the abundance of native
flowers that bring this 100% organic double gauze collection to life. It’s beautifully soft, comfortable to wear and is great for
adding some fun to your sewing.
Superbloom Primrose Ikat Blossoms Morning Meadow Ditsy Raindrops
To see more organic fabric collections from Cloud9 Fabrics - click here

Fableism’s collections continue to grow...
QUEEN OF HEARTS
This beautiful new collection showcases heart
ginghams and dobby hearts in the most wearable
colours! It’s now available in a 139cm (55in) width
so these gorgeous 100% cottons can be used for
dressmaking fabrics as well as for quilting and
general crafting.
Rivera
Blueberry
Maraschino
DAISIES FROM FORAGE FOREST
We love the pretty daisy detail in the Forest Forage collection,
which comes in the Fableism’s signature earthy colour palette with
newly added colours that are perfect for your autumn sewing.
Dark Fern
Cream
Spring
Erase Homestead Negativity
To find more organic fabric collections from Fableism - click here

INKPERFECT
What’s not to love about this tonal collection! Immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of harmonious blues and textures with
InkPerfect: Indigo Edition. This captivating collection celebrates and iuveils handcrafted traditions and artisanal creativity. The
beautiful fabric designs go beautifuly together or can be mix and matched with other fabrics to create lovely projects like
bags, homeware and apparel.
Riveria
Beetle Parade Sun
COYOTE HILL
This collection is an echantment of nocturnal
creatures, starlit skies, and the iconic Californian
poppy captured in foliage, flora and fauna woven
into mesmerising motifs, bringing the magical allure
of the night sky to life. It’s ideal for an autumn jacket
or dress!
Torn Hills Dusk
Wild Woodblock Night
Somebunny Special
Little Briar Rose
The Blue Fairy
BEDTIME STORIES
This whimsical collection weaves nostalgia and invites
you to rediscover beloved tales. Allow these prints to
whisk you away to distant lands, where you’ll encounter
enchanting characters, rekindling the magic and wonder of
childhood. With a bunny theme running through many of
the fabric designs, adults and children will adore it alike!
To find a stockist near you of the latest Art Gallery Fabrics collections - click here

MAKING
AN IMITATION LEATHER BAG
With Jacqui Smith
One of the biggest trends over the last few years is the metallic handbag, and I’ve been wanting to add a silver bag
to my wardrobe for ages but hadn’t found one I liked. So this year, I decided to design my own and use Modelo’s
wonderful imitation leather! If you fancy making one yourself, here are my instructions:
HOW TO CUT OUT:
Imitation Leather
1 x 32in x 18.5in with cut-out squares
as indicated on the diagram
1 x 11in x 7.5in for front pocket
4 x 25in x 2in for straps
Lining
5 x 11in x 7.5in for internal pockets and external pocket lining
2 x 18.5in x 16.25in for bag lining with cut-out corners as
indicated on the diagram A.
Interfacing
3 x 11in x 7.5in for internal and external pocket
2 x 18.5in x 16.25in for bag lining with cut-out corners as
indicated on the diagram B.
Binding or trim
If using AGF printed binding strips, you will need to cut 3 strips
along the indicated cutting line by wof then trim each strip to
1in wide plus 1 strip 11in x 2 1/2in (no need to trim the width of
this strip). This iis for binding the top of the outside pocket that’s
optional)
If using trim/webbing, there is no need to cut it to length.
MATERIALS REQUIRED:
* 24in (60cm) of Imitation leather by width of fabric (wof)
I used Modelo’s Silver (MODIL129470-0200) which will leave
you some spare for another project.
* 24in (60cm) of lining fabric wof
I used Seeds Longan from Seedling by Art Gallery Fabrics
(AGFSDL20100)
* 1m (1yd) fusible interfacing wof
I used Legacy’s 100% Cotton Woven Fusible Interfacing
(LEGSF101)
* 25cm (¼yd) of trim wof for handles and binding. I used
Handmade Bound from the Binding Collection by AGF
(AGFBIN25100)
TIP: You could also use ribbon or lightweight webbing 2.6m
(3yds) of ½in wide.
* Thread
* Wonder Clips (instead of pins)
* Frixion Pen (for marking)
* Frog Tape

HOW TO MAKE:
¼in seam allowance is used throughout
Firstly make the lining and pockets:
1. Fuse the interfacing to both bag lining pieces and three of
the pocket lining pieces.
2. Make the internal pockets by putting a pocket piece with
one of the fused pieces right sides together and sew along
both short sides and one long side (leave the long bottom
open), trim the corners and turn the right sides out. Press.
Repeat this for the other internal pocket.
Diagram A
3. Make the external pocket by putting the other fused
pocket lining with right sides together with the imitation
leather front pocket and sew along the long bottom edge.
If you are not using binding to finish the long top edge you
would sew this as well so that you have a tube when you
turn it right side out. If using binding turn the pocket right
side out and finger press the seam at the bottom. Aligning
the top edges bind the edge using the binding strip so that
it shows on the front of the pocket.
4. Take both bag linings right side up (18½in side along
the top) and align the raw edge of both internal pockets
so that they are 5in up from the bottom of each piece and
centred across the lining, the pocket will face downwards.
Stitch across the long bottom edge of both pockets. Fold
and press the pocket upwards. Sew both sides of the pocket
down and ¼in across the bottom to enclose the raw edges
inside. You can also sew dividers into the pockets to suit
your needs at this stage.
Diagram B
5. Finally, place bag linings with right sides together and sew
down both sides and across the bottom leaving a gap for
turning the bag later.
Make straps and attach the front pocket
1. Sew the straps together along the short ends to make two
long straps and finger press the seam open. I found it useful
to hold this open with clips. Draw a line on the wrong side
down the middle of the length all the way along. Fold the
sides of the straps into the centre using the line as a guide
wrong sides together - use clips to hold them in place.
2. If using binding strips join them together along the short
sides to make one long strip. Fold the edges to the wrong
side to make a strip ½in wide. Using either the folded
binding strip or your ribbon/trim position this down the
centre of the folded handle strip and sew in place on both
edges to finish the straps, enclosing all raw edges inside.
Repeat this for both straps.
3. Lay the imitation leather outer bag pieces with right sides
up (18½in side along the top) and position the pocket on
the front approximately 4in down from the top edge of the
bag and centre across the bag. I found it useful to use frog
tape to hold this in place.
4. Mark the bottom centre point approx 1in in from each
side of the cut-out along the centre line of the bag base (the
dotted line on the diagram marks the centre of the base).
This is where your straps will meet on the bottom of the bag.
Position the first strap to start from this point and align with
the sides of the pocket. You want the straps to be straight
and cover the edges of the pocket when they’re sewn down.
You can adjust the position to ensure that the sides of the
pocket are sewn down at the same time.
EDITORS NOTES
THE FABRIC:
Modelo Santiago and Santiago II
imitation leather fabric collections
are available in a range of rich
colours including the coveted
metallic shades of gold, silver,
copper and bronze pearl.
Santiago is made from 60%
polyurethane, 25% polyester
and 15% cotton and Sanitago II
is made from 60% polyurethane,
32% Polyester and 8% viscose.
Both are perfect for making bags
and purses.
To view the full-colour range –
click here

“I designed the bag to be quite
soft but if you would prefer
a little more structure, you
can use a stiffer interfacing
(trim the seams down before
fusing so that you do not have
too much bulk in the seams).
In addition, you could add a
base to the bag by cutting stiff
interfacing to fit the inside
bottom and covering this with
a fabric sleeve.”
Just make sure that both sides are the same distance from the
edge, I used frog tape to secure the straps in place. Stitch the
first strap in place from the bottom of the bag to the top of the
pocket, stitching over the trim sewing lines.
Secure your stitching at the top of the pocket to ensure that it’s
strong enough. Do not stitch to the top of the bag. Fold the strap
down the other side of the pocket and repeat the stitching taking
care that the strap is not twisted.
5. Position the strap on the back of the bag in the same way
making sure that it is the same distance from the sides and that
your stitching stops at the same point as the front. The two bag
straps should butt up to each other on the base of the bag.
Assemble the bag
1. Fold the outer bag with right sides together, and tuck the
straps down inside to avoid catching them in the stitching. Sew
the side seams. Turn the bag inside out.
Bag out the bottom of the bag by taking the unsewn edges of the
cut-out and folding the right sides together. The side seam should
sit in the middle of one side. Sew a seam from side to side along
the raw edge, and repeat on the other side of the bag. Repeat
this for the lining, the bottom seam and the side seam will match
in the middle of the edge.
2. Put the lining inside the bag with the right sides together,
matching the side seams and clip along the top edge. Sew a ¼in
seam all the way around. Turn the bag the right way out tuck the
lining inside and top stitch around the top edge, I did one row
close to the edge and another about ¼in below it. Hand stitch the
bottom opening in the lining closed.
Your bag is now finished.

THE BAG
Four bags sewing patterns for everyday use and more!
This versatile zippered top tote bag comes in two sizes –
regular and overnight! The bag features an easy-access
front pocket, reinforced base, removable crossbody strap,
and a roomy interior with a slip pocket. Customise yours
by quilting! The photo here shows the regular bag made in
beautiful wovens from Fableism.
Oxbow Tote
To view the full pattern range from Noodlehead – click here
Carry everything you need for a day trip, this compact and
feature-rich backpack is sized to work well for everyone. All
you’ll have to do is adjust the lengths of the shoulder straps
to fit! The zipper extends to the bottom of the main and front
compartments for easy access and open wide, making it easy
to pack and find items so no more digging around inside!
Out and About Knapsack
For more sewing patterns from ByAnnie – click here
This compact belt bag is perfect for every day. It’s easy to
wear across the front or back of your body, and great for
keeping things safe when travelling. The back zippered
pocket is perfect for your phone! Just pop it over your head
and head off to run errands.
Haralson Bag
To view the full pattern range from Noodlehead – click here
This do-it-all project bag is ideal for holding your project
no matter what it may be. It has a drawstring closure and
drawstring pockets, and is designed for corralling tools,
patterns, and miscellany and is small enough to fit into a
larger tote bag if needed.
The Town Bag
To find bag patterns from Grainline Studio - click here

IMITATION
LEATHER
Julie Bonnar shares some practical tips for making it easier to
work with this fabric!
What is imitation leather?
Not all imitation or faux leathers – also known as pleather – are the same
and come in different colours, prints, weights and thicknesses depending
on the manufacturing process and the backing fabric. Imitation leathers
are UV fade-resistant and don’t crack or peel like real leather. When
shopping for this type of fabric, it’s important to understand the
difference between imitation leather and vinyl. There are two major types
of imitation leather - vinyl-based and polyurethane-based. Polyurethanebased
imitation leather is made by coating natural fabrics like cotton
or polyester, and then treating it to look like real leather. Polyurethane
leather is softer, flexible, and breathable while vinyl-based is essentially a
dyed plastic and not!
Special Tools
Rotary cutter and cutting mat
This fabric is best cut with a rotary cutter with a fresh blade to
obtain sharp neat cuts.
Clips and patternweights
Use clips to hold the imitation pattern pieces together. Avoid
pins at all costs as imitation leather doesn’t self-heal, and pins
leave permanent holes if used outside the seam allowance!
The right presser foot
If you’re finding that this fabric is sticking to your foot, you have
several options:
A Teflon foot - This has a nonstick coating on the bottom
which helps it to slide along this fabric.
A walking foot - This foot has feed dogs that help push the
top and bottom layers of fabric along together.
TIP: When sewing from the right side, you can add a layer of
tissue paper or waxy parchment between your foot and your
fabric to prevent sticking while you sew and then it can be torn
away when you have finished stitching.
Many sewing machine manufacturers have needle plates that
can help sew this type of fabric. For example, the narrow Ultra
Glide needle plate from Janome is moulded from resin
and makes it easy to keep multiple layers from slipping,
especially when working close to the edge. It can be bought
with the Ultra Glide Foot.
The right sewing needle
It’s important to use a new sharp needle when working
with synthetic fabric where every stitch will show. Imitation
leathers tend to dull and blunt sewing needles very quickly.
Use a sharp Microtex like the Prym option (P152940) or
denim needle (size 90/14 or 80/12) as these have a sharper
point and will minimise the size of holes you create while
stitching.
TIP: Don’t use a leather needle! These are best used for real
leather as they make large holes!
The right thread
Avoid cotton threads as they can snap and wear over time.
Polyester like from Scanfil, nylon or rayon threads work
best because they are strong. Use a 50-weight thread and a
thick one for any topstitching.
TIP: Don’t back stitch, instead leave a long thread tail and
hand tie the end of each seam, it’s more professional!

You can easily sew this fabric
on a regular sewing machine by
following a few simple steps:
Canton Moto Jacket from
Cashmerette Patterns
Pattern selection
Keep your projects as easy as possible, and pick sewing
patterns that have fewer seams and less bulk. Choose patterns
like skirts with simple seams, shift dresses, jackets, bags and
purses. You can also use this fabric to add elbow patches, cuffs,
collars and pocket flaps to other garments.
TIP: Some imitation leathers have more stretch than others so
make sure you take this into account when making a garment.
Place the pattern pieces so the stretch goes around the
garment.
On those fabrics that don’t have any give at all – you might
want to add more ease or go up a pattern size to account for
bulkier seams that can cause a snugger fit!
Cutting the fabric
Use a rotary cutter and cut one layer at a time. This helps
prevent your rotary cutter from becoming dull and slipping.
Pinning your fabric
Use pattern weights and clips to hold the layers of fabric
together (pins will pierce the fabric and leave holes).
The right pressure
The right side of this fabric can stick and create friction. To
reduce the pressure between the presser foot and the throat
plate, lower the feed dog and guide your fabric by pulling it
through behind the presser foot.
Jasika Blazer from
Closet Core Patterns
You can also use this
fabric to add elbow
patches, cuffs,
collars and pocket
flaps to jackets.
TIP: Spraying a little silicone spray on your fabric can also help
the foot glide right over your fabric. It’s food-safe and doesn’t
leave a residue.
Pressing
Set your iron to a low synthetic setting and press on the wrong
side of the fabric using a pressing cloth. Don’t use the steam
setting as it can detach the bond.
The right stitch
Use a longer zigzag or straight stitch length of 4 on your sewing
machine. Smaller stitches make more holes that can weaken or
damage the fabric’s structure making it more likely to tear at
the seams.
TIP: Test your stitch length on a fabric scrap until you get the
best result for the project.
On real leather, you’ll always find lots of topstitching so this
is a nice finish to have on imitation leather too! Always grade
your seam allowances before topstitching to eliminate the
thickness of the multiple layers.
Seam finishes
If your seams still look bulky, use a rubber mallet or fabric roller
to pound out the thicker seams. Imitation leather seams can be
left as raw edges as they don’t fray but if you don’t like the raw
edge look, you can use a marker or leather edge paint to coat
the raw edge for a more professional look.
I hope you’re feeling confident and
ready to take on your next project
with imitation leather! Why not try
Jaqui’s bag project on page 18.
Julie

Modelo has two imitation leather collections - Santiago and Santiago II.
These fabrics are easy to sew with a regular sewing machine and presser foot and have a woven backing for stability. It’s a
popular fabric for a wide range of uses from jackets, skirts, waistcoats, bags and purses and comes in a rich range of colours.
Santiago II Collection
with a flat matte finish
Gold
Wine
Silver
Bronze Pearl
Navy
Santiago I Collection
with a textured metallic finish
Matt Red Pearl
Olive
To view Modelo’s selection of imitation leather - click here
This article has been written by Julie Bonnar, the Editor of The Pattern Pages, an independent sewing magazine started by
mother and daughter team, and the first magazine to champion indie designers, www.thepatternpages.co.uk

New fabrics for this season
PIMA Cotton
Wander the western landscapes in fabric
with Tumbleweed by Sharon Holland.
Bringing desert beauty to your sewing
room with rich burgundy, earthy redwood,
warm amber & faded denim inspired by
the eclectic nature of the desert.
Full details & stockists

New fabrics for this season
Inspired by the captivating high desert and
mesmerising landscapes, this collection is
a love letter to the breathtaking beauty of
New Mexico. Explore the colours, textures,
and stories woven into every print!
PIMA Cotton
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New fabrics for this season
Full details & stockists
Introducing Queen of Hearts by Fableism, with 14 beautiful
new heart ginghams and dobby hearts in the most wearable
colours!
For the first time ever, at 55” (139cm) wide, these whimsical
cottons are perfect as dressmaking fabrics, as well as being
perfect for quilters and crafters. More fabric, more hearts,
more cotton dresses please!

New fabrics for this season
From Cloud9 Fabrics …About Love is a tribute
to the tender emotions that bind hearts
together. This collection tells the tales of
romance and fondness. Inspired by the
splendour of nature and the warmth of human
connections.
Full details & stockists

New fabrics for this season
From Cloud9 Fabrics …The palette of the
leaves is changing, and the ferns beginning to
dry and curl. Delicate spider embroideries
collect jewels of dew, and wildflowers flourish in
their last seasonal dances under a deep blue
sky.
Full details & stockists

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