FRA_GG_57_Complet

Régis, Jérôme and 

Karin Bernaleau, 

co-managers of 

Château Mongravey, 

Margaux 

CHÂTEAU MONGRAVEY: 

“AROUND THE WORLD, OUR WINE REGION 

IS STILL MEANINGFUL” 

L 19045 - 57 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

AUTUMN 2024 

PAGES 111-122 

OUR AUTUMN SELECTIONS: 

FRANCE: CHABLIS - MEDOC - SOUTH-WEST 

ARGENTINA – ITALY – MOLDOVA – SOUTH AFRICA – SPAIN

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

COLUMNS / REPORTS 

20 

30 

60 

7 

Rare bottle 

10 

Economy 

The Médoc’s village 

appellations put through 

their paces 

20 

Terroir 

Chablis and its unique 

persona 

30 

Grapes 

How Spanish grape 

varieties are mirrors to 

their identity 

40 

Investments 

Investing in the c(gr)ape: 

Why foreign investors 

are drawn to acquiring 

South Africa’s wine 

farms 

50 

Appellation 

Côtes-du-Rhône- 

Villages, the archipelago 

with 22 islands 

60 

Territory 

How Valpolicella 

reconciles tradition with 

a global vision 

70 

Discovery 

South-West France: 

a low-key wine region 

with a big personality 

78 

Travel 

Moldova: 

A long-established wine 

producer with a modern 

focus 

88 

Discovery 

Argentina, where variety 

comes second nature 

98 

Focus 

Terras & Terroir, the taste of 

Portugal 

103 

Focus 

Tendervino: The Italian company 

with the tender touch 

108 

Stars & wine 

Emily Blunt: “Wine in itself is a 

sensory journey for me!” 

110 

Contact details 

111 

Autumn Selection 2024 

France: Chablis - Medoc - 

South-West – Argentina – Italy – 

Moldova – South Africa –Spain 

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Winter 2024 

COVERS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

78 

AUTUMN 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

3

EDITORIAL 

FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

THE HIDDEN COMPLEXITY OF VALPOLICELLA 

Valpolicella is an appellation that is well-known in 

Italy and beyond, but which in actual fact is multifaceted. 

It hails from western Veneto, among the valleys 

located north of Verona. It is bordered in the west by Lake 

Garda whose 370 km 2 expanse plays a pivotal role in regulating 

temperatures. The region is divided into two parts: 

in the Classico zone around San Pietro, Marano, Fumane 

and Negrar, the grapes ripen at elevations ranging from 

150 to 450 metres above sea level and produce dense 

wines with a very distinctive taste. Conversely, in the 

Adige valley farther east, whose footprint is three times 

the size of the Classico area, production tends to be more 

run-of-the-mill. 

Some of the grapes for Valpolicella have always been 

dried on wooden slats after the harvest. In December 

or January, they would traditionally be vinted to make a 

wine with high sugar concentration due to the fact that 

the sugar does not fully ferment. The result is a sweet 

wine, Recioto della Valpolicella. In the 1950s, winemakers 

began introducing certain natural yeasts within 

the region that could turn the high sugar content in the 

raisined grapes into alcohol. Thus was born Amarone, 

a lush, robust and powerful red wine that also develops 

incredible aromatic complexity. It became the region’s 

star wine, and present-day production benefits from 

the huge strides made in modern winemaking techniques. 

Its very consistent quality has fuelled demand 

with the result that supplies have grown commensurately 

since the end of the 1990s. And who could complain 

about that? 

4 AUTUMN 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

SPANISH GRAPE VARIETIES, 

ICONS OF THE COUNTRY’S CULTURE 

TSpain has always been a land of wine. And just like 

some of its neighbouring European producer countries, 

it boasts an impressive catalogue of nearly six 

hundred indigenous grape varieties. Of these, just fifteen 

or so that are specific to Spain cover some 75% of area 

under vine. Until recently, their popularity was confined 

almost entirely to Spain itself. 

Now, however, in the wake of extreme globalisation which 

sent the market into overdrive in the 1990s and flooded it 

with varieties referred to as international such as Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

Merlot and Chardonnay that often hailed 

from the New World, traditional European products are 

enjoying renewed interest. Spain, in particular, with 

substantial help from Europe, has successfully structured 

and modernised its industry and allowed its native 

varietals once classed as rustic, harsh and austere, to gain 

traction. Markets have evolved through the influence of 

consumers that are increasingly keen to explore and 

discover authentic wines. Spanish producers have delivered 

and made an effort to provide wines that are more 

accessible to international palates and not just those 

geared to Spanish wines. This is exemplified by Rioja, for 

instance, where Tempranillo has been revolutionised. It 

was once matured in multiple-use barrels that imparted 

aromas of old wood and a drying tannin structure, but 

now, this iconic grape variety is packed with energy and 

seductive aromatics. Its fresh, elegant style in no way 

excludes complexity, undeniably offering a token that 

vitality has been regained. This dynamic mindset is a 

pleasure to witness, and one that is certainly impressing 

the marketplace. 


5

EDITORIAL 

SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF 

MOLDOVA ENTERS THE BIG LEAGUE OF WINE 

Globalisation is not all bad. Let me explain. Who 

could claim to have tried Moldovan wine in the 

1990s? Probably not many people. That no longer holds 

true today, and we can thank the internet for that. 

Vines have been grown in Moldova since time immemorial. 

The country boasts a continental climate, suitable 

soils and hilly terrain that are all conducive to growing 

vines. It also just happens to be located along the same 

latitude as Burgundy and its climate is moderated by 

the influence of the nearby Black Sea. Importantly, in 

mediaeval times, Moldova was already renowned for 

growing vines until it came under Russia’s control in 1812, 

then Soviet and post-Soviet dominance until 2006. Since 

then, Moldova has become a full-fledged wine producing 

country. Though affected by phylloxera at the end of the 

19th century like virtually all wine regions around the 

world, it has successfully rebuilt its vineyards by tapping 

into international grape varieties – mostly French such 

as Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay – along 

with a host of native varietals such as Rara Neagra, 

Feteasca Negra and Feteasca Alba. These have thrown up 

some very exotic styles of wines that pique the curiosity 

of enthusiasts across the globe. 

The Moldovan wine industry was long hampered by its 

affiliation with the Soviet bloc, which became synonymous 

with a lack of resources and virtually non-existent 

trade with the rest of the world. But now the country is 

undergoing a revival and opening up new markets which 

are discovering high quality bottled wines. It might 

just be that Moldova becomes the next promised land 

for wine… 


TASTING 

RARE BOTTLE 

90 / 100 

AN INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCE! 

MARE SANTO 

EXTRA DRY – PRESTIGE LABEL 

You’re probably wondering what is so special about this wine. Its vineyards 

thrive on the lush green hills of Goriška Brda, in the far western part of 

Slovenia. They are located just a stone’s throw from the Italian border where the 

hot Mediterranean air meets the cold wind off the Alps, both of them caressing 

the grapes. The fruit is harvested by hand and the grapes that meet the highest 

standards are selected to produce this wine which is subsequently submerged in 

the Adriatic Sea. A year later, Mare Santo® rises from its depths! 

So why the sea? Where did the idea come from? The wine is the brainchild 

of respected Slovenian winegrower Igor Tomažič, who was inspired 

by Slovenian customs of the past. In bygone days, wines would be cooled 

in streams because there were no refrigerators. Often, a bottle would be 

forgotten there until the following summer, during which time it developed 

and would subsequently be highly popular with the locals due to its exquisite 

taste. Igor Tomažič drew on this tradition whilst also adding a much more 

spectacular dimension to it. Thus it was that he began to immerse bottles in 

the nearby Adriatic Sea. 

This label is an exclusive selection of half Rebula, half Chardonnay, harvested 

by hand in the prime quality vineyards of Goriška Brda. It boasts the requisite 

character to be plunged into salt water. A marine environment lends the wine 

unique minerality, bolstering its intrinsic aromatic profile. Production is 

divided into small batches to maintain outstanding quality and exclusiveness, 

and also to preserve underwater fauna and flora by not becoming too 

intrusive. After spending six months at a depth of 20 metres, lulled by the 

ebb and flow of the sea at constant temperatures, the wines develop profound 

aromas and display great vitality. Similarly, each bottle is shaped by the 

currents and the rich marine life in the Adriatic Sea, thus developing a unique 

appearance akin to a work of art crafted by nature. The contents of the bottle 

are just as unique, with their clear, light gold hue and their highly expressive, 

pleasant nose with its toast tones. The rounded, complex palate shows very 

ripe characters and a finish that offers up impressive length resonating with 

the appetising fruit tones. 

https://maresanto.com/ 

SELECTED BY 


AUTUMN 2024• GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

7

DOMAINE DE 

LA POYEBADE 

2022 

CHÂTEAU 

D’ESCOT 

2015 

FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

FOR AUTUMN 

2024 

CÔTE DE BROUILLY 

11,50 € 

ALEXANDRE PRIOUR 

CAVAVIN RENNES 

32 rue Saint-Hélier 

35000 RENNES 

+33 2 99 67 29 00 

rennes@cavavin.fr 

DOMAINE 

PERRACHON 

CORCELETTE 2023 

MORGON 

10,80€ 

MATTHIEU POTIER 

CAVAVIN VITRY LE FRANCOIS 

23 rue du Pont 

51300 VITRY LE FRANCOIS 

+33 3 26 74 45 37 

vitrylefrancois@cavavin.fr 

MÉDOC 

15,30€ 

FRANZ SIAUGUES 

CAVAVIN SAINT JOSEPH LA PORTERIE 

14 rue Barbara 

44300 NANTES 

+33 2 28 22 36 44 

nantes-stjoseph@cavavin.fr 

CHÂTEAU 

DESMIRAIL 

2020 (1855-classified Third Growth) 

MARGAUX 

44 € 

VALERIE HOUVERTUS 

CAVAVIN PARIS 17 

21 rue Poncelet 

91470 LIMOURS 

+33 1 45 72 37 53 

parisponcelet@cavavin.fr 

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France - Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: 

François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe 

Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout, Olivier 

Delorme, Gonzalo Fernandez, Matthieu Gaillard, 

Géraldine Spencer, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Camille Bernard, Ellen 

Budge, Jean-Paul Burias, Isabelle Escande, Mauricio 

Llaver, Sylvain Patard, Francesco Saverio Russo, Julia 

Scavo DipWSET, Samarie Smith-Meletiou DipWSET, 

Frank Rousseau 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti, CS Traduções 

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THE MÉDOC’S VILLAGE APPELLATIONS 

PUT THROUGH THEIR PACES 

BY CAMILLE BERNARD 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

Their names are Margaux, Moulis, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe and they are 

the Médoc’s village-designated appellations. They enjoy global renown and 

epitomise the excellence of Bordeaux wines. But in the current lacklustre 

economic climate combined with declining consumption, the pace of which 

continues to fasten, can these Bordeaux growths continue to rely on their 

long-standing attributes to secure a place in export markets? As the market 

undergoes a paradigm shift, does terroir still make a compelling case that will 

guarantee their survival and long-term success? 

CHÂTEAU MONGRAVEY, A CRU BOURGEOIS SUPÉRIEUR IN AOC MARGAUX 

LÉGENDES 


BORDEAUX 

ECONOMY 

THE SANDY SOILS IN BISTON-BRILLETTE’S VINEYARDS LEND THE WINES FINESSE AND ELEGANCE 

The Médoc’s village-designated appellations boast a reputation that spans 

several centuries and embrace some of the most celebrated vineyard sites 

in the world. The wineries located in these appellations enjoy unique geological 

conditions, viticultural skills that are passed down through the generations and 

a propensity for producing age-worthy wines that appeal to enthusiasts worldwide. 

They have always exemplified the promise of quality wines, some of them 

achieving excellence. Historically, these appellations had far superior price tags 

to generic Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur. Their reputation allowed them to 

flourish in international markets, and they became magnets for wine enthusiasts 

and collectors across the globe. But as the economy undergoes profound change, 

traditional markets become saturated and consumer trends transition away from 

traditional wine purchases, will their reputation be enough? These short-term 

issues are compounded by more structural threats like climate change which is 

already shifting production dynamics and the typicity of the wines. All of this begs 

the question: do the village-designated appellations in the Médoc have what it 

takes to continue to excel on the global wine stage? 

CHÂTEAU BISTON-BRILLETTE: “AOC MOULIS 

OFFERS A GREAT GATEWAY TO MÉDOC WINES” 

Located in the heart of AOC Moulis, Château Biston-Brillette fully illustrates the 

diversity of vineyard sites in this village-designated Médoc appellation. “In Moulis, 


11

BORDEAUX 

ECONOMY 

SERGE BARBARIN, OWNER OF CHÂTEAU 

BISTON-BRILLETTE IN AOC MOULIS 

GUILLAUME BARBARIN, SERGE BARBARIN’S NEPHEW, 

IS TAKING UP THE TORCH 

we have a kaleidoscope of all the region’s vineyard 

sites, and Biston-Brillette stands out for its sandy 

soils which lend our wines finesse and elegance”, 

explains estate owner Serge Barbarin. The terroir 

is particularly suitable for Merlot, offering Château 

Biston-Brillette wines supple, silky characters that 

make them accessible even in their youth. 

This unique feature is a valuable asset at a time 

when instant gratification is the new norm and 

consumers are loath to cellar wines for lengthy 

periods. “Our wines are well-suited to changing 

consumer patterns, offering immediate access but 

at the same time continuing to develop over time”, 

stresses Barbarin. 

Château Biston-Brillette also stands out for its 

unique connection with its customers: “80% of our 

wines are sold direct to consumers, which provides 

us with instant feedback about the perception of 

our wines”, he adds. The tack was first taken by 

his parents and mirrors the family’s determination 

to remain independent. It is also a novel way 

of overcoming AOC Moulis’ lack of visibility. “They 

introduced this strategy well before it was fashionable 

to do so, convinced that because Moulis is 

not the Médoc’s most prestigious appellation, they 

would have to get people to come to them and sell 

the wines direct”. 

“AOC Moulis may well be unfamiliar to people 

and have limited volumes – less than two million 

bottles a year – but it offers a great gateway to 

Médoc wines for those who want to learn more”. 

Serge Barbarin admits that the winery now benefits 

more from its own reputation than from 

that of the appellation. Acutely aware that the 

wine industry is experiencing a period of drastic 

change, he concedes: “I think we need to change 

models. We perhaps haven’t done everything we 

should have to make our wines modern”. Insisting 

on the need for some soul-searching, he asks: “In 

what way can our wines seamlessly transition 

towards more modernity?” 

Barbarin is of the opinion that part of the answer 

lies in what wine epitomises – conviviality and 

celebration. “Wine is part of the celebration and 

celebrating is universal. We are delighted that our 

wines accompany important occasions in the lives 


DENIS LURTON, OWNER OF 

CHÂTEAU DESMIRAIL 

of our customers – their weddings, christenings etc. Wine should not be pompous. 

Most of all, it is about conviviality”. 

With the arrival of a new generation of winegrowers in Moulis, represented at 

Biston-Brillette by his nephew Guillaume Barbarin, Serge Barbarin feels that positive 

change is afoot: “The newcomers will bring a new perspective with them”, he 

concludes, convinced that Moulis’ future lies in this open-minded approach and 

the determination to adapt. 

CHÂTEAU DESMIRAIL: 

“MARGAUX WINES ARE GLOBALLY RENOWNED” 

1855 Third Classified Growth Château Desmirail in AOC Margaux is home to a 

unique heritage. Enjoying an ideal location along the famous Médoc chateau 

route, it offers visitors views of its 18th-century charterhouse and a late 19th 

century, gravity-fed Médoc vat house which is one of only a few perfectly preserved 

examples left. 

Château Desmirail made a commitment to farming sustainably decades ago, 

outlawing all chemical weedkillers and insecticides long before it was certified 

High Environmental Value in 2018. 

“Margaux wines are globally renowned for their elegance, their finesse and their 

roundness”, claims Denis Lurton, the owner of Château Desmirail, whose wines 

certainly live up to their reputation. 

As is traditionally the case for Margaux and in particular the Classified Growths, 


13

BORDEAUX 

ECONOMY 

3ÈME GRAND CRU CLASSÉ IN AOC MARGAUX, CHÂTEAU DESMIRAIL 

KARIN, JÉRÔME AND RÉGIS BERNALEAU, THE CO-MANAGERS AT CHÂTEAU MONGRAVEY 

Château Desmirail’s wines are mostly sold to the 

Bordeaux wine trade. Lurton admits that recent 

market changes require a review of marketing 

practices. He explains: “The current crisis is structural 

for the Médoc and Bordeaux but not for our 

wines which trade in the luxury segment. Nevertheless, 

we wait for inventories to be depleted and 

from that perspective, the En Primeurs campaign 

needs to be reviewed, particularly because certain 

markets like China have never subscribed to this 

system”. Outside France, Château Desmirail has in 

fact diversified its markets, breaking new ground 

in the United States and in China, in addition to 

its long-standing presence in England and more 

broadly across Europe. “Our reputation was not 

strong in the 1990s because I believed that the 

quality of the wine was enough. But nowadays, 

communications are essential if you want to make 

a name for yourself”, shares Lurton. The winery 

therefore leverages its ideal location along the 

wine route to develop wine tourism activities, 

welcoming visitors every day from May to October. 

Concurrently with this, Château Desmirail continues 

to champion AOC Margaux but also adapts to 

a changing global marketplace. “We have chosen 

to produce wines that make the most of the range 

of Bordeaux grape varieties so that we can offer 

elegance in the first few years, then complexity 

after some bottle age”, concludes Lurton. 

CHÂTEAU MONGRAVEY: “AROUND 

THE WORLD, OUR VINEYARDS 

ARE STILL MEANINGFUL” 

A family-run property situated in AOC Margaux, 

Château Mongravey exemplifies the elegance of 

fine wines from this prestigious village-designated 

appellation. At the end of the 1970s, Régis 

Bernaleau succeeded his father at the property’s 

helm. At the time, Mongravey – Mont for high 

ground and Gravey for gravel – illustrated the defining 

features of a unique vineyard site covering a 

single hectare. 

“The first bottle of Château Mongravey emerged in 

1981. Then, over the years, the property expanded 


KARIN BERNALEAU 

MANAGES THE ENTIRE 

MARKETING DEPARTMENT 

AT CHÂTEAU MONGRAVEY 

as several vineyard blocks were bought, bringing its present-day footprint up to a dozen 

hectares divided between around thirty different blocks”, explains the estate’s co-manager 

Karin Bernaleau. 

The vines thrive on gravelly hillocks dating back to the Quaternary Period which are replete 

with gravel and quartz pebbles, providing natural drainage and perfectly radiating heat back, 

thus creating ideal conditions for the grapes to reach peak ripeness. This mosaic of differing 

vineyard sites, where Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc flourish, offers all 

the requisite conditions for producing wines that fully reveal the elegance and delicacy of 

Margaux vineyards. Bernaleau believes that “AOC Margaux is a convincing proposition, even 

in times of crisis”. She adds: “70% of Margaux acreage is covered by the Classified Growths, 

which obviously promotes its reputation. The appellation is meaningful to people overseas 

and in fact our appellation is over-represented in the United States, particularly the Classified 

Growths and the Crus Bourgeois”. In fact, as a Cru Bourgeois Supérieur since 2018, 

Château Mongravey not only benefits from the visibility of AOC Margaux but also from that 

of the Crus Bourgeois category. By leveraging these dual credentials, it can stand out from 

the crowd in competitive markets, whilst at the same time safeguarding its identity. “We 

have made it our mission to remain faithful to who we are, yet also moving forward with 

the market”, stresses Bernaleau. The winery has therefore invested in modern, innovative 

winemaking techniques like the use of Italian amphorae to mature 10% of its wines. 

Although a large chunk of its wines are now shipped overseas (85%, including 35% to the 

United States), Château Mongravey continues to focus on its unique vineyard sites to make 

a name for itself. “Globally, our vineyards are still meaningful, but we also have to reinvent 

ourselves to ensure we communicate effectively about our wines”, she concludes. 


15

BORDEAUX 

ECONOMY 

DOMAINES PEDRO: 

“SAINT-ESTÈPHE ENJOYS 

INTERNATIONAL VISIBILITY” 

DOMAINES PEDRO OWN 14 HECTARES IN AOC SAINT-ESTÈPHE 

DOMAINES PEDRO MATURE THEIR WINES IN BARRELS FROM THE MOST FAMOUS 

COOPERAGES 

A family-run property whose history dates back 

to 1830, Domaines Pedro own 14 hectares of 

vines in AOC Saint-Estèphe. Divided between 

Château Lavillotte and Domaine de la Ronceray, 

the vineyards produce a range of three wines, 

“designed to meet different consumer expectations 

both in terms of wine style and pricing”, 

explains the wineries’ technical director Sébastien 

Fraysse. 

Château Lavillotte is located on stony limestone 

soils and covers 12 hectares. It produces wines with 

bouquet and rich tannins which soften with time. 

Domaine de la Ronceray, adjacent to Lavillotte, 

farms 2 hectares of vines and produces a generous, 

velvety wine with a distinctively harmonious lush 

feel, fat and length on the palate. 

To adapt to current consumer tastes, Domaines 

Pedro have modernised their winemaking facilities. 

“We take a different approach to tannin 

extraction to produce rounder wines that are more 

accessible in their youth (three or four years)”, 

explains Fraysse. Installation of pulse-air technology 

has resulted in gentler extractions, instilling 

the wines with tannin presence but with much 

silkier tannins. 

“Saint-Estèphe enjoys international visibility. 

People refer to Saint-Estèphe as ‘noble wines’”, 

claims Fraysse. With some 60% of their wines sold 

in France and the balance exported to markets like 

the United States, Canada, Belgium, Japan and to a 

lesser extent China, Domaines Pedro benefit from 

this recognition whilst also pursuing their policy 

of marketing consumer-centric wines. 

MAISON BOUEY: 

“UNDERSTANDING AND 

RESPONDING TO THE MARKET- 

PLACE IS A REAL JUGGLING ACT” 

In an interview with Jacques Bouey, CEO of Maison 

Bouey, for the winter 2023 issue of our magazine, 


JACQUES BOUEY IS 

OPTIMISTIC ABOUT NEW 

MARKET OPPORTUNITIES 

SUMMER 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

17

BORDEAUX 

ECONOMY 

he stressed how important the benefit of terroir is for promoting Bordeaux wines 

in saturated markets: “The Médoc’s terroir is a powerful resource that is found 

nowhere else. Our wines show the typicity consumers are looking for, particularly 

in developing markets”. Highlighting the Bouey family’s attachment to the 

Médoc where, as a reminder, the company boasts 52 hectares of owned vineyards, 

he added: “The land forms the cornerstone of our market approach”. Even then, 

faced with economic challenges and changing consumer patterns, Bouey explained 

the need “to understand the existence of a rift between mature and developing 

markets”, referring to the northern European belt and French on-trade for the 

former, and Asian countries for the latter. In mature markets, where he noticed 

a shift in demand, he believed it was essential to “reinterpret wine in order to 

understand consumers tired of traditional Bordeaux”. Conversely, in developing 

markets like South-East Asia, Korea, Japan and Africa, Bouey welcomed “renewed 

consumption of the Bordeaux wines we were producing ten years ago”. 

Calling for “a balance between promoting Bordeaux terroir and adapting to new 

consumer trends”, he stressed: “We work across the entire spectrum, meaning our 

family-run properties – where for example we pioneered whole-cluster fermentation 

to add freshness and greater typicity to our wines – along with our brands. The 

aim is not to put an end to typical Bordeaux wines. Understanding and responding 

to the marketplace is a juggling act”. 

THE BOUEY FAMILY OWNS 52 HECTARES IN THE MÉDOC 


CHÂTEAU MONGRAVEY HAS 

INTRODUCED ITALIAN AMPHORAE 

TO DEVELOP SILKY WINES 

THE BARREL CELLAR 

AT CHÂTEAU DESMIRAIL 

A BENEFICIAL WAKE-UP CALL 

Faced with a constantly changing market, the village-designated Médoc appellations 

are at a critical turning point. Although their history and unique terroir are 

compelling arguments, properties need to show great agility to respond to new 

consumer expectations and market challenges. The comments above demonstrate 

awareness of these issues, either through modernisation of winemaking techniques, 

revised sales strategies or greater emphasis on the value of their terroir in 

communications. Where Château Biston-Brillette focuses on the conviviality and 

authenticity of its wines to reach out to new Médoc wine enthusiasts, Château 

Desmirail draws on its history and luxury positioning to conquer new international 

markets. In Margaux, Château Mongravey takes a deliberately balanced 

approach between tradition and innovation to remain competitive, whilst in 

northern Médoc, in Saint-Estèphe, Domaines Pedro stands out for its commitment 

to making accessible, contemporary wines. Last but not least, Maison Bouey strives 

to reconcile respect for its vineyard sites with adaptation to new consumer trends. 

Ultimately, although the village-designated appellations of the Médoc are being 

put through their paces, they are also demonstrating their ability to adapt and 

persevere. The future hinges on their capacity to remain faithful to their heritage, 

whilst opening up to new opportunities. 


19

CHABLIS AND ITS UNIQUE PERSONA 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Among white Burgundy wines, Chablis clocks up a number of differences in 

relation to its legendary ‘cousins’ like Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. 

The appellation draws on its location, terroir and specific climate which lend 

it its distinctive, appealing persona defined by abundant tension but also a 

remarkable aromatic spectrum. 

HARVESTING GRAPES AT DOMAINE ALAIN GEOFFROY 

LÉGENDES 


BURGUNDY 

TERROIR 

THE MAGNIFICENT VINEYARD SITES AT MAISON PASCAL BOUCHARD 

Set in the heart of a well-known and widely recognised region worldwide, Chablis 

wines have carved out an impressive place for themselves despite fierce competition, 

primarily from fellow established Burgundy names like Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet 

and Puligny-Montrachet, that are equally as famous, if not more 

so. The production area is divided into four appellations: Chablis with an average 

share of 65% of output over five years; Petit Chablis (20%), Chablis Premier Cru (13%) 

and Grand Cru (1.5%). Its unique climate is often described as semi-continental but 

is more generally speaking a modified oceanic climate, one of the five major climate 

types listed in France. Chardonnay is Chablis’ sole varietal and the region expresses the 

cultivar’s quintessential qualities unless, that is, the best laid plans of its winegrowers 

go awry due to frost and hail. When the fruit ripens in ideal conditions, it achieves 

great balance between rich sugars and freshness (acidity). These natural conditions, the 

expertise and high standards of the winegrowers, honed over many years, culminate 

in dry white wines showing seductive purity, freshness, finesse and minerality. Their 

character scales the heights, fuelled by genuinely unique features within the world of 

Burgundy wines. 

DOMAINE ALAIN GEOFFROY: 

THE LONG-STANDING BENCHMARK 

This key winery in the Chablis wine region traces its history back to 1850 with Honoré 

Geoffroy, before Alain Geoffroy took it in a new direction. In the 1960s, he expanded 


21

PASCAL SAILLEY AND NATHALIE GEOFFROY FROM DOMAINE 

ALAIN GEOFFROY TASTING WINES AT WINE PARIS 

WORK IN THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE ALAIN GEOFFROY 

DOMAINE ALAIN GEOFFROY’S WINEMAKER CYRILLE MIGNOTTE IN THE CELLAR 

WITH CATHY GEOFFROY 

this 50-hectare property – whilst preserving its family-run traditions – and named it after 

himself. The mayor of Beines for 24 years, he passed away in December 2020 at the age of 

76. Cathy Geoffroy then took over the winery and helps produce its award-winning fresh, 

fruity wines with their impressive mineral stamp alongside Nathalie Geoffroy. “We belong 

to a group of medium-sized wineries producing good quality wines”, explains Cathy Geoffroy. 

“Our wines’ unique terroir is what really adds value to them. Chardonnay is one of the 

appellation’s criteria but the wines are identified by their vineyard site before the grape 

variety”. The outstanding potential of the soil and expert winemaking techniques lend 

intense, rich aromatics and appealing minerality to the wines, which are made in stainless 

steel tanks to fully preserve their freshness and typicity. The grapes from old vines, 

however, are fermented in oak barrels. The Chablis wines are fresh, fruity, elegant and 

delicate with a wonderful mineral stamp. They retain the tension and finesse that stem 

from their vineyard sites which are farmed sustainably. The impactful identity and image 

of the wines are recognised by their customers and the winery has often been singled out 

for distinction in international competitions like Chardonnay du Monde and Burgondia, 

which awards the best wines in Bourgogne Franche-Comté and Beaujolais. Importantly, 

the Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge awarded 92/100 for its 2022 Premier Cru 

Beauroy recently. The winery also attracts a strong following in a number of countries, 

including Australia, Germany, Norway and the United States. 


PASCAL SAILLEY, EXPORT 

MANAGER AT DOMAINE 

ALAIN GEOFFROY AT 

PROWEIN IN GERMANY 


23

BURGUNDY 

TERROIR 

PASCAL BOUCHARD: 

AN INTERNATIONAL REPUTATION 

FANNY LEMETTAIS, THE SALES MANAGER AT MAISON PASCAL BOUCHARD 

FLORENT DENIEUIL, THE WINEMAKER AT MAISON PASCAL BOUCHARD 

This iconic Chablis company made a fresh start 

in 2015. The Bouchard family, its original owners, 

decided to refocus on estate wines. It sold its Pascal 

Bouchard trading company to the Bichot group, 

one of Burgundy’s oldest firms founded in 1831 and 

renowned for its prestigious vineyards in Meursault, 

Pommard and Gevrey-Chambertin. The production 

facilities were modernised to ensure the quality of 

the wines and promote individual vineyard sites, 

and a new brand identity was established with more 

modern liveries. Since the takeover, the changes have 

gone hand in hand with significant growth which 

has now positioned the company as a major market 

player – it distributes 17 Chablis, including three 

Grands Crus. “We do our utmost to showcase the 

variety of appellations within Burgundy and aim to 

promote mineral and fruit characters”, stresses sales 

manager Fanny Lemettais. “The soils, which comprise 

alternate formations of marl and marly limestone, 

the climate and work by our teams shape the typicity 

of our Chablis, which are very refined and elegant”. 

The modern, functional, temperature-controlled 

winery with a capacity of 11,000 hectolitres provides 

optimum conditions for winemaking and ensures 

consistent quality all the way through each vintage 

for both the company’s iconic high-volume labels – 

Chablis le Classique and Petit Chablis Blancs Cailloux 

– and the boutique-volume offerings from particular 

sites and organic wines. Pascal Bouchard wines can 

be found in the most prestigious establishments and 

restaurants in nearly forty countries. In France and 

overseas, its awards list from renowned competitions 

and reviews in specialist media offer proof of 

its constantly growing reputation for quality. 

LAMBLIN & FILS: 

KEEPING IT IN THE FAMILY 

There is a strong bond in the Burgundy village of 

Maligny. The Lamblin family has been farming vines 

since 1690 on outstanding Chablis sites. Since 1987, 

Michel Lamblin and his brother Didier have comple- 


THE TEAM AT DOMAINE LAMBLIN & FILS, WITH CLÉMENT, DIDIER, ALEXANDRE AND MICHEL LAMBLIN (LEFT TO RIGHT) 

THESE SMALL CHARDONNAY 

GRAPES WILL GROW INTO FINE 

FRUIT AT DOMAINE LAMBLIN & FILS 

THE FIRST TASTING OF THE 2023 

VINTAGE AT DOMAINE LAMBLIN & FILS 

SHOWS GREAT PROMISE 

CHABLIS WINES BY DOMAINE LAMBLIN 

& FILS CELEBRATING WORLD WHITE 

WINE DAY ON AUGUST 4 

mented each other perfectly, seamlessly perpetuating the traditions of their predecessors. In 2003, 

they were joined by Clément, Didier’s son, freshly graduated in viticulture and oenology from 

the college in Beaune, followed two years later by Alexandre, Michel’s son. The two new recruits 

marked the arrival of the twelfth generation at this award-winning institution which regularly 

wins accolades in national and international competitions. “Burgundy’s king of white grapes 

offers up very different arrays of flavours”, comments Clément Lamblin. “With its dry white, 

mineral-accented wines leaning towards citrus fruits, Chablis’ identity rolls out all the assertive 

qualities of Chardonnay”. The flavours are encapsulated in a full range of wines hinging on its 

two Grands Crus – the rich, generous, harmonious and lingering Les Clos and Vaudésir – three 

Premiers Crus, Chablis and a clean Petit Chablis showing abundant freshness. 

CHÂTEAU DE VIVIERS: CHABLIS WITH A ROYAL STAMP 

Château de Viviers boasts an historic claim to fame. Its wines, which were already recognised and 

enjoyed, were served at Versailles, most notably at the weddings of Louis XIV and Louis XV. In 

1628, the château was rebuilt and its beautiful, classic dressed-stone façade was officially unveiled. 


25

DOMAINE 

ALAIN GEOFFROY’S 

VINEYARDS IN 

THE AUTUMN 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

LADISLAS LEFÉBURE 

SPRAYS THE BIODYANMIC 

PREPARATION P500 AT 

CHÂTEAU DE VIVIERS 

BÉATRICE ROBIN 

AT AN EXHIBITION IN 

ARLES THIS YEAR 

26

ARNOULD LEFÉBURE TASTING WINES AT CHÂTEAU DE VIVIERS 

ISABELLE AND ARNOULD LEFÉBURE, THE OWNERS OF CHÂTEAU DE VIVIERS 

After a considerable hiatus from producing wine lasting nearly 70 years, the winery re-emerged 

at the start of the 1980s when Bernard and Brigitte Lefébure decided to replant vines with help 

from Maison Albert Bichot which leased the land. In 2019, after spending 25 years in Brussels, 

their son Arnould – a marine biologist and the founder of Good Planet Belgium – and his wife 

Isabelle, an interior designer and ceramist, took over at the helm of the family-owned estate. 

It was rapidly converted to organic and biodynamic, outlawing pesticides and herbicides and 

reducing copper and sulphur inputs to an absolute minimum. Driven by their compelling 

desire to promote sustainability, the couple approaches vine growing as a cycle where biodiversity 

plays a pivotal role in soil quality, the resilience of the fruit and complexity of the aromas. 

A small, motivated, six-strong team shares the same vision of excellence where work by hand 

is invariably preferred to machines. Located in Viviers, whose elevation ranging from 250 to 

350 metres above sea level makes it the highest of the 17 villages within the Chablis appellation, 

its vines bask in a unique climate due to the altitude, providing them slightly cooler temperatures 

and more intense sunshine for the grapes. “The high fossil density imparts outstanding 

minerality to our Chablis, but also leads to lower productivity with yields struggling to reach 

40 hectolitres per hectare”, explains Arnould Lefébure. “The wines have a distinctive mineral 

backbone right from the attack. Complex aromas of grapefruit and hazelnut fuse deliciously 

and end with lingering iodine-like and saline notes”. The four labels – B&B, Sous les plantes, 

Cota Grand Claude, Cana & Collector – are all numbered with a hand-applied wax seal and 

each one encapsulates a specific story through its own typicity. “We continue to work as a 

small, artisanal estate which crafts its wines meticulously in order to make them unique”, adds 

Isabelle Lefébure. “All of them are matured at least partially in oak barrels that differ in size 

and density in order to achieve the right balance, in the same way a chef works with spices. 

Depending on the vintage, we produce single-vineyard wines or blends and in outstanding 


27

BÉATRICE AND THIERRY ROBIN 

IN THEIR VINEYARD AT 

DOMAINE LOUIS ROBIN 

years, we release a collector label. Only 100 magnums of it are produced and are illustrated and 

signed every time by an artist that we have a particular fondness for, bringing together art and 

winegrowing”. Château de Viviers also offers enthusiasts the chance to sponsor vines, to stay in 

the chateau’s guest accommodation and enjoy tastings with an educational tour of the vineyards. 

LOUIS ROBIN: MINERAL, ELEGANT CHABLIS 

The Robin family certainly does not do things by half measures. It has owned vineyards since 

1836 and now boasts around thirty hectares under vine. In 1991, Thierry Robin took over his 

father’s farm with his wife Béatrice. “We shouldn’t feel inferior to the renowned fine white wines 

of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet”, she explains. “We are part of Burgundy and are increasingly 

sought-after, particularly in export markets. Our incredible vineyard sites and reasonable 

price tags are real plus points”. The winery’s focus is on excellence which is why it harvests all of 

its fruit by machine at the end of September to maximise freshness. The wines undergo alcoholic 

and malolactic fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The process 

produces wines boasting sumptuous complexity and a charming, mineral palate. 

DOMAINE DU COLOMBIER: UNWAVERING EXPERTISE 

Located four kilometres from Chablis, in a village with a population of 140 hidden behind 

the Grands Crus, Domaine du Colombier produces wines with remarkable craftsmanship. 

This family-owned property founded in 1887 has been passed down through the generations 

but was given a new lease of life in 1957 by Guy Mothe who specialised in winemaking. His 


BURGUNDY 

TERROIR 

three sons, Jean-Louis, Thierry and Vincent Mothe 

have since taken over the 55 hectares under vine. 

Eighty percent of their clear, vibrant, light dry 

white wines displaying a trademark yellow hue with 

subtle white-green tints are exported to forty countries. 

“We are located on two different soil types”, 

explains Vincent Mothe. “In the village of Fontenay, 

the soils are more limestone, which imparts minerality. 

In Chichée, they are clayey, which instils 

fruitiness. By making our wines entirely in stainless 

steel tanks, we preserve their great freshness 

and can thus stand out from other white Burgundy, 

which tends to be rounder and oakier. Chablis has 

a strong identity. It clearly identifies a style of dry 

white wine whereas the name Burgundy refers to a 

much broader range and embraces all three colours 

– whites, reds and rosés”. 

VINCENT MOTHE IN HIS VINEYARD AT DOMAINE DU COLOMBIER 

A STAR-STUDDED 

INTERNATIONAL REPUTATION 

Its name is well-known the world over and this 

endorsement stems from the high production 

standards. Chablis’ persona comes from its typicity 

and its remarkable soils which lend the wines 

their inimitable character. “This identity was 

always subsumed into that of Burgundy”, feels 

Arnould Lefébure, the owner of Château de Viviers. 

“However, Chablis’ resurgence in the 1980s and 

1990s, fuelled by American demand, has shaped one 

of the most distinctive markers of the French wine 

industry internationally, alongside Champagne, 

fine Bordeaux and of course all Burgundy wines”. 

The region is one of the cradles of Chardonnay 

which has become one of the best-known and 

widely planted grape varieties in the world. It plays 

an essential role in awareness and perception of 

Chablis, particularly when it comes to establishing 

its global reputation. With its four appellations, 

the region offers an extensive range of styles and 

characters that resonate with every occasion, from 

a deliciously classy aperitif to a meal of seafood, 

poultry in a sauce, risotto or creamy cheeses. The 

promise of such enjoyable occasions provides the 

showcase for one of France’s flagship wines. 

THIERRY MOTHE FARMS THE 

55-HECTARE VINEYARD AT DOMAINE 

DU COLOMBIER WITH HIS BROTHERS 

JEAN-LOUIS AND VINCENT 


29

HOW SPANISH GRAPE VARIETIES ARE 

MIRRORS TO THEIR IDENTITY 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Although home to propitious sites for growing wine, Spain’s main defining 

feature is its extensive range of native grape varieties. Whether used in blends 

or as single varietals, they reveal a unique character and substantiate a wine’s 

origin. International grape varieties like Merlot, Syrah and the Cabernets 

are admittedly widespread across the country, but indigenous grapes are now 

riding the crest of popularity. 

CELLER DE CAPÇANES NOW MANAGES 225 HECTARES UNDER VINE 

LÉGENDES 


SPAIN 

GRAPES 

“GARNACHA IS THE VARIETY THAT BEST IDENTIFIES US AND IS ASSOCIATED WITH THE WINERY” EXPLAINS SIGRID GUILLEM 

It only took three decades for international grape varieties – then considered to be the 

silver bullet for the Spanish wine industry – to move to the backburner. They may not 

be bordering on extinction, but they certainly no longer spark limitless admiration or 

total dedication. People’s interest has shifted to a new space. Increasing numbers of 

winegrowers – often supported by scientific research which began the monumental 

task of listing and safeguarding native varieties – are deciding to focus on indigenous 

varietals, viewed as heritage showcases. 

There are a number of differing reasons for this change of perspective but clearly the 

trend for overripe, over-concentrated and heavily oaked wines, which peaked in the 

1990s, ultimately generated palate fatigue and led to a paradigm shift in emphasis 

among winegrowers and consumers alike. ‘Soulless’ wines have been superseded by 

styles where vines and vineyard sites are now of paramount importance. The aim is to 

show off the typicity of the wine, its unique character. Winegrowers are now turning 

to native grape varieties to emphasise the uniqueness of their wines. 

They have also noticed that endemic grape varieties tend to show greater resistance 

to the challenges raised by climate change – extreme drought conditions, scorching 

heat and vine diseases for instance. They have made a compelling case for resurrecting 

heirloom grape varieties and showcasing typical Spanish varieties, offering a token of 

hope for tomorrow’s wine industry and upcoming generations. Justification for this 

move is to be found in the country’s fascinating array of grape varieties, featuring 

nearly 400 native cultivars. We met five Spanish bodegas where endemic varieties are 

placed centre stage in order to find out more about their motivations and their ethos. 


31

SPAIN 

GRAPES 

GARNACHA, THE SUCCESSFUL, 

MULTI-PURPOSE GRAPE 

ANNA ROVIRA, THE WINEMAKER AT CELLER DE CAPÇANES 

CELLER DE CAPÇANES PRODUCES A WIDE VARIETY OF WINES FROM GARNACHA, 

INCLUDING RED WINES MATURED IN LARGE BARRELS OR FRENCH OAK, YOUNG 

BOTTLINGS, ROSÉS AND ‘BLANC DE NOIRS’ 

Garnacha is probably the most international of 

Spain’s grape varieties today. The on-trend cultivar 

ranks among the ten most widely grown varietals 

worldwide, rising to fifth place among reds, 

stresses Sigrid Guillem, brand ambassador for 

Celler de Capçanes, one of the most representative 

wineries in the Montsant appellation area in Catalonia. 

The easy-to-export grape variety “usually 

finds favour with consumers”, hence Celler de 

Capçanes’ particular focus on the variety, which 

accounts for 65% of its production. The choice 

of this endemic varietal is also supported by the 

fact that DO Montsant provides it with felicitous 

growing conditions. The region’s poor, dry, stony 

soils – formed of slate or limestone – are conducive 

to its development. “Garnacha is the ultimate 

local grape variety in our area”, confirms Guillem. 

The variety is usually disease-resistant and thrives 

in hot climates, showing a substantial ability 

to adapt to the drought conditions which have 

affected Catalonia over the past three years. In the 

face of climate change, it has developed better than 

the region’s other traditional cultivar, Cariñena 

(Carignan), explains Guillem. 

These advantages come with another key trait, one 

that brings joy to winemakers, which is its versatility. 

Garnacha can be used to craft different styles 

of wine and makes the perfect blending partner. 

Boasting “substantial aromatic expression and 

good acidity”, the Garnachas made by Celler de 

Capçanes offer the winery an opportunity to 

produce both “very fruit-forward labels” and 

“particularly delicate, elegant pours with a lighter 

colour”. This stylistic variety hinges on “rigorous 

classification of the vineyards which determines 

the quality of the grapes and their potential”. 

Several aspects are factored into the equation, like 

vine age, the location and aspect of the vineyard, 

soil type, climate and biodiversity. 

The different iterations illustrate the variety’s 

extensive aromatic and flavour spectrum but 

also its intrinsic bond with its terroir. The Taller 

de Terroirs range offers a very telling rendition of 


JORGE SROUGI, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF COVIÑAS 

COVIÑAS’ VINEYARDS ARE HOME TO SOME OF 

SPAIN’S OLDEST VINES STILL ON-STREAM 

this – the four single varietal Garnachas are grown on four different soil types across 

the region: limestone, slate (known locally as ‘llicorella’), clay and ‘panal’ or loamy-sandy 

soils. They offer an impressive exercise in style. 

BOBAL OR THE RESURGENCE OF A VARIETY 

WITH GREAT POTENTIAL 

Bobal, a typical variety from Eastern Spain, is now sparking interest, and not just 

because of its unusual name. Stemming from the Latin ‘bovale’, which means ‘in 

the shape of a bull’s head’, it alludes to the outline of a cluster of Bobal grapes which 

resembles cattle. The variety is very much under-the-radar and occasionally given a wide 

berth by enthusiasts because it was long reduced to producing bulk wine. It is now 

experiencing a new lease of life, however, due to some of the region’s winegrowers who 

have successfully given it the attention it deserves. 

The Coviñas co-operative, which manages in excess of 10,000 hectares of vines – including 

65% Bobal – and has over 3,000 members, is among these inspired bodegas; it is 

the largest winery in the Utiel-Requena appellation. It has leveraged its many old vines 

– some of them over eighty years old – which are bush-trained to produce complex single 

varietals. Even after spending time in oak, they retain their hallmark fruit characters. 

At the same time, the winery has been mindful of increased market interest in appetising 

aromatic wines and has developed fresh, lifted rosés and reds from its youngest 


33

COVIÑAS BOASTS OVER 

2,000 HECTARES 

OF ORGANICALLY 

CERTIFIED VINES 

JUAN JOSÉ QUIROGA AND 

MARÍA TERESA DE PABLO WITH 

THEIR THREE CHILDREN WHO 

HAVE TAKEN OVER AT THE 

HELM OF THE FAMILY-RUN 

WINERY IN AZOFRA 

THE WINEMAKERS AT DIEZ 

SIGLOS, NOELIA SANTAMARIA 

AND LAURA RUBIO 

34

SPAIN 

GRAPES 

vines. Bobal is “a grape variety that is increasingly 

recognised and valued”, confirms the winery’s 

marketing manager Patricia Álvarez. The group 

currently exports over 80% of its wines to more 

than thirty countries. 

Bobal has also provided the co-operative with a 

formidable ally for coping with climate change and 

the new challenges it has thrown up. It shows resistance 

to parasites and extreme weather conditions, 

retaining its substantial natural acidity. Bobal’s only 

downside is its “irregular ripening which requires 

constant monitoring to determine the most appropriate 

harvest window”, explains Álvarez. Ultimately, 

that’s perhaps not much of a trade-off for such 

a multi-talented grape variety… 

ONLY ORGANIC FERTILISERS MADE FROM WINEMAKING WASTE ARE USED IN THE 

VINEYARDS AT BODEGAS QUIROGA DE PABLO 

TEMPRANILLO, THE KING OF 

SPANISH GRAPE VARIETIES 

SHOWING DISTINCTIVELY HIGH ACIDITY, TEMPRANILLO BLANCO PRODUCES 

VERY FRESH WHITE WINES 

Tempranillo is not just the most widely grown 

grape variety in Spain, it has also carved out a 

reputation for Spanish red wines on the international 

stage. This uber-fruity, fresh grape 

has the ability to develop great finesse, particularly 

when it finds a site that allows it to thrive. 

“Tempranillo performs particularly well in cool, 

high-altitude sites”, explains winemaker Juan L. 

Quiroga, the sixth-generation incumbent at the 

helm of Bodegas Quiroga de Pablo, alongside his 

sister Maïté and brother Diego. “Tempranillo has 

average acidity and can lose its aromatic freshness 

and experience an increase in alcohol levels if it 

is grown in conditions that are too hot”. In Rioja 

Alta, where the prevailing influence comes from 

the Atlantic and not the Mediterranean, it thrives. 

On the poor soils at Bodegas Quiroga de Pablo, 

over 500 metres above sea level, the Tempranillo 

vines flourish. They have a short growing season 

– ‘tempranillo’ means early in Spanish – and seem 

to have found perfect balance here. Twenty-five 

years ago, shares Juan, “when I started taking 

over from my father, we occasionally had issues 

with reaching peak ripeness due to the coolness 

of the area, but the increase in temperatures due 

to climate change has helped us produce better 


35

SPAIN 

GRAPES 

TERESA HERAS, HEAD OF MARKETING AND 

COMMUNICATIONS AT DIEZ SIGLOS 

red wines”. The winery’s bottlings display trademark 

appetising red and black fruit notes such 

as strawberry and blackberry, floral aromas and 

silky tannins on the palate. “Alcohol content in our 

wines is in the range of 13.5% whereas in other 

regions it is tending to spiral upwards”. 

Juan claims he is “very satisfied” with his Tempranillos 

tintos (red), but also with another iteration. 

The winery was among the first to take an interest 

in Tempranillo blanco, a Rioja grape variety 

stemming from the natural genetic mutation of a 

Tempranillo tinto cane, which was only discovered 

in 1988. As a student, Juan took an in-depth look 

at the variety. He was convinced of its untapped 

potential – it was only permitted in the DO in 2007 

– and set off in search of a vineyard block boasting 

ideal conditions for it to develop. His quest lasted 

five years, but the family’s white wines are now 

recognised as some of the appellation’s finest. 

VERDEJO, A GRAPE VARIETY 

WITH HALLMARK TERROIR 

CHARACTERS 

DIEZ SIGLOS IS INVESTING OVER ONE MILLION EUROS IN 2025 TO INCREASE ITS 

RANGE OF LOW-ALCOHOL WINES, A MARKET THAT SHOWS PROMISE 

The Diez Siglos co-operative winery was established 

in 2010 with a single-minded objective: to produce 

quality wines that would showcase the pedigree of 

the outstanding grape variety Verdejo. “For Bodega 

Diez Siglos, Verdejo is not just a variety of grape 

– it is the spirit of our land and the essence of our 

work. This native grape variety is our identity and 

the pillar on which we build our wines”, confirms 

the company’s PR officer Teresa Heras. 

Verdejo also epitomises its terroir because it 

demonstrates total synergy with its growing environment. 

Its home region of Rueda, in north-eastern 

Spain, offers perfect conditions for it to fully 

express its aromatic potential. In fact, it is not 

widely grown in other wine regions, even at global 

level. It is perfectly suited to the DO’s continental 

climate, and is particularly fond of the poor, stony, 

sandy soils that define the appellation. “These 

conditions allow the grapes to develop substantial 

aromatic complexity and balanced acidity, yielding 

fresh wines with a unique persona”. 


ANTONIO DE ÍSCAR, 

MANAGING DIRECTOR 

OF DIEZ SIGLOS 


37

PAULA FANDIÑO WAS RECOGNISED BY BRITISH MAGAZINE THE DRINKS BUSINESS AS ONE OF THE 10 MOST INFLUENTIAL 

FEMALE WINEMAKERS IN SPAIN 

The Verdejos made by the Diez Siglos winery display a pale yellow hue with green 

tints and do indeed exude intense aromatics and white fruit-dominant aromas 

(such as pear) coupled with herbaceous, floral and lemony notes. On the palate, they 

offer vibrant acidity and a well-balanced structure with faint sourness on the finish 

which is typical of the variety. 

At the co-operative, every stage of the winemaking process is approached with 

utmost care in order to enhance the inherent qualities of Verdejo. The fruit is usually 

picked by night to avoid oxidation of the must and preserve aromatic freshness. 

Once it has been destemmed, it is gently pressed then fermented at low temperatures 

in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit notes. Lees ageing lends greater 

complexity and structure to the wine. 

This craftsmanship has secured a reputation for the co-operative’s wines outside 

Spain, coinciding with the varietal’s growing popularity “especially in countries 

where consumers are looking for alternatives to traditional white varietals. Verdejo 

is increasingly sought-after in markets like northern Europe, the United States and 

some Asian countries where people appreciate its potential with food”, explains 

Heras. Chardonnay and Italian Pinot Grigio had better watch out! 

ALBARIÑO AND GODELLO, 

TWO ICONIC VARIETALS THAT SYMBOLISE FRESHNESS 

Mar de Frades, the benchmark Rías Baixas winery in Galicia, the famous appellation 

in North-West Spain, produces one of the country’s most celebrated Alba- 


LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE ‘VALLE DEL SALNÉS’, MAR DE FRADES IS ONE OF THE 

REGION’S MOST REPRESENTATIVE WINERIES 

PLANTED USING THE ESPALIER SYSTEM, THE GODELLO VINES 

ARE HARVESTED AND THE FRUIT CAREFULLY SORTED BY HAND 

MAR DE FRADES USES PLANET-FRIENDLY VINEYARD MANAGEMENT TECHNIQUES 

AIMED AT PRESERVING BALANCE IN THE SOILS AND THE ENVIRONMENT 

riños, named after the winery. Mar de Frades was also the first to produce a 

sparkling wine from the variety, using the traditional method. “Albariño is our 

flagship wine. Since we founded the winery around forty years ago, it has been the 

focal point for development of our expertise”, explains the company’s winemaker 

Paula Fandiño. In its homeland of Rías Baixas, where the soils are granite and the 

climate has an ocean influence, it now shows “at its finest”. 

That’s because the area is a “true paradise” for growing vines and for Albariño. 

The climate is mild and damp with very high rainfall and sandy soils on top of 

the granite bedrock. It is this unique terroir that lends the grape variety and the 

resultant wines their distinctive character. The complex, delicate pours “display 

a saline stamp, minerality and high acidity”. 

Boasting substantial freshness, with notes of apple, pear, apricot and occasionally 

melon and mango, the Albariño grape variety is “increasingly renowned 

in export markets, primarily the United States, United Kingdom, Ireland and 

Latin America”, adds Fandiño. “It is now enjoyed by consumers who view it as an 

elegant, prestigious varietal”. 

The situation for Godello, another grape variety farmed by Mar de Frades, is 

different. Although it has piqued greater curiosity over the past few years due 

to growth in white wine consumption and increased interest in endemic grape 

varieties, it is mainly shipped to the domestic market. Its tropical notes of lychee, 

mango and pineapple and its mellow palate are definitely appealing traits. “As 

a variety that is native to the continental climate of Galicia, we have sought to 

reveal its potential by growing it along the coast”. Once again, the influence of 

the Atlantic is not far away. 


39

INVESTING IN THE C(GR)APE: WHY FOREIGN 

INVESTORS ARE DRAWN TO ACQUIRING 

SOUTH AFRICA’S WINE FARMS 

BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU DIPWSET 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Owning a wine farm in South Africa evokes a postcard image of scenic 

landscapes and an idyllic lifestyle, which has enticed many holidaymakers to 

stay and put down roots. The trend has also drawn substantial international 

investment, driven by confidence in the country’s long-term potential. 

ARNISTON BAY WAS INSPIRED BY THE HISTORIC ARNISTON FISHING VILLAGE ON THE SOUTHERN TIP OF AFRICA. AS PART OF STELLENBOSCH 

VINEYARDS, IT IS NOW OWNED BY ADVINI 


SOUTH AFRICA 

INVESTMENT 

ADVINI FOCUSES ON PREMIUM PACKAGED WINES, AVOIDING CROWDED, LOWER-END MARKETS, WHILE PROMOTING SOUTH AFRICA’S OLD-VINE CHENIN 

BLANC AND CONSERVATION INITIATIVES 

The South African wine industry has come under the foreign investor’s radar for many reasons, of 

which the exceptional wine quality and vibrant tourism offerings remain the primary factors in 

building a reputation that regularly outshines its global competitors. 

Beyond its nuanced climate and ancient soils shaping unique wines, South Africa’s competitive edge 

includes the lower costs for establishing vineyards, labour, and production compared to famed regions 

like Bordeaux or Napa. A well-educated English-speaking workforce also adds to the attraction. Its 

unique ability to offer the best of both worlds - combining old-world techniques born from its rich 

viticultural history with innovative, new-world approaches also keeps it at the forefront of the global 

wine scene. So, despite political and economic uncertainties, many investors view the country as ripe 

with long-term growth potential, embracing a patient approach that values the organic development 

of their investment. 

Maryna Calow, Communications Manager for Wines of South Africa (WOSA), explains: “Any investment 

in our industry is seen as positive, as it leads to job creation, greater visibility, infrastructure development, 

and renewed interest in the sector.” 

South Africa ranks 6th in global wine exports and 8th in production volume, accounting for over 4% of 

the world’s wine, while wine tourism contributes R7.2 billion ($412 million) to the economy, creating 

thousands of jobs. Despite recent production declines, wine sales reached R31.7 billion in 2022 - an 

increase from the previous year. These factors present a compelling case for foreign investors, with 18 

million glasses of South African wine enjoyed worldwide daily - an impressive opportunity to build on 

and cultivate further. 

ADVINI: A WINE INVESTMENT PHILOSOPHY FORGED BY FAMILY VALUES 

At the heart of the wine enterprise Advini, listed on the stock exchange, is the Jeanjean family, who have 

farmed France’s Languedoc region since 1870. Advini is synonymous with mindful wine industry acqui- 


41

SOUTH AFRICA 

INVESTMENT 

NARETHA RICOME, VICE PRESIDENT ADVINI SOUTH AFRICA 

DIRK COETZEE, WINEMAKER AT L’AVENIR, A TRAIL BLAZER FOR PINOTAGE 

sitions in France and South Africa, a company that 

ensures sustainability while preserving cultural and 

historical identity. As the third-largest wine producer 

in France, Advini owns properties in renowned 

French appellations, and 15 years ago, they expanded 

into South Africa’s sought-after Stellenbosch terrain. 

But, as Naretha Ricome, Vice President AdVini South 

Africa, reveals, this wasn’t a strategic move initially. 

Ricome, a South African-born Afri-French powerhouse, 

manages the South African chapter from 

Advini’s headquarters in Saint-Félix-de-Lodez, near 

Montpellier. Albeit based in France, she has maintained 

a deep connection to Stellenbosch since her 

student days, where her passion for wine blossomed 

while working part-time at the L’Avenir wine estate. 

Her career took her to Maison Ogier in Châteauneuf, 

a company owned by Advini, and brought her full 

circle when Advini acquired Laroche from Chablis, 

the previous owner of L’Avenir. 

“It made sense for Advini to establish a presence 

in Stellenbosch, given their history of investing in 

esteemed appellations,” Ricome explains. “I put my 

hand up to lead the Stellenbosch venture because I 

believed in the region’s potential. The mandate was 

simple: it shouldn’t cost the company money, and I 

had to prove it could be profitable.” 

They broke even in the first year; by the following 

year, they were profitable, and today, each brand in 

the Advini SA portfolio is 100% profitable, “which 

allows us to reinvest and expand further.” 

Advini’s success in South Africa stems from a deep 

respect for brand equity and terroir. Under Ricome’s 

leadership, the portfolio has grown to include Le 

Bonheur and Ken Forrester Wines (since 2016), Stellenbosch 

Vineyards (2018), and Kleine Zalze (2022). 

“It’s not about competing but complementing each 

other. The land and the people come first, so the 

autonomy of each estate must be maintained while 

fostering an interconnected relationship between 

the brands. South Africans run each estate, and this 

psychological ownership, or ‘ancrage’ as we say in 

French, anchors the identity of each brand, making 

the model truly sustainable.” 

The strategy of careful curation rather than rapid 

growth has proven successful. L’Avenir continues to 

shine with Pinotage (Provenance Pinotage 2022 and 


SOUTH AFRICA 

INVESTMENT 

Chenin Blanc 2023 scoring 91), Ken Forrester leads in 

Chenin Blanc (Old Vine Reserve Chenin 2023 scoring 

90 and The FMC 93 amongst others) and Kleine Zalze 

is recognised for its high-quality, large-scale production. 

Meanwhile, Le Bonheur remains a hidden gem 

for their guests, celebrated as Canada’s top-selling 

white wine brand and scoring two golds in the 

Gilbert & Galliard tasting. 

“We want to bring the world the best South Africa 

offers while building on its heritage.” 

As their latest acquisition, Kleine Zalze achieved just 

that, securing multiple double golds at the tasting 

for their Family Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2022, FR 

Chenin Blanc 2022, FR Chardonnay 2023, and FR 

Cabernet Sauvignon 2019. To crown their success, 

the FR Syrah 2020 scored an impressive 95 points. 

The company actively reduces its environmental 

impact through water conservation and recycled 

glass, to name a few. 

“It’s been proven that shipping wine from South Africa 

to Europe has a smaller carbon footprint than transporting 

it from France to Germany,” Ricome notes. 

“We need to shift the perception that promoting South 

Africa abroad increases environmental costs.” 

Despite challenges like fluctuating exchange rates, 

power issues, and a weak Rand, Ricome remains 

optimistic as Advini’s growth has significantly 

impacted local communities with initiatives such as 

the Arniston Bay Trust. 

“People are your best asset. During COVID, we didn’t 

retrench a single employee or reduce salaries. For 

example, L’Avenir started with 11 employees, and 

today, we directly employ 253 people.” 

She compares a sustainable legacy to the victorious 

Springbok rugby team: “It’s about building a sustainable 

legacy. “The Boks need to win before the fun 

can start. Similarly, South Africa’s wine industry has 

the quality, the people, and the know-how. It’s about 

growth - taking what works and building on it.” 

RJ BOTHA, CELLAR MASTER AT KLEINE ZALZE 

WILLIAM WILKINSON, WINEMAKER AT LE BONHEUR 

LES GRANDS CHAIS DE FRANCE – 

DIVERSIFICATION IS KEY 

Sustainability is a core focus for Les Grands Chais de 

France (GCF), one of France’s largest wine and spirits 


43

THE ICONIC TREE-LINED AVENUE WELCOMING YOU TO THE ENTRANCE OF NEETHLINGSHOF 

producers. Founded in 1979 by Joseph Helfrich and based in Petersbach, Alsace, GCF believes that integrating 

sustainability across its entire production chain is essential to long-term success. 

Matthias Schwunk, Executive Director of International Wines and Spirits, highlights the qualitative growth 

of South Africa’s wine industry as a key attraction for investors. 

“The transition between heritage and modernity has created diverse wine styles, and the Southern Hemisphere’s 

harvest timing helps mitigate risks as climate change impacts grape supply worldwide.” 

Schwunk adds that new sales channels allow GCF to sell directly from South Africa to global customers. 

“South Africa’s unique wines complement GCF’s portfolio, enabling us to offer a broader range. Neethlingshof, 

with its history of producing exceptional still wines, and Villiera, known for Cap Classique, 

presented ideal synergies for us as the largest producer of Crémant. We saw incredible potential,” resulting 

in several wines scoring gold. 

He points out that an under-diversified distribution network in South Africa has led to dependence on a 

limited number of customers or markets. 

“New sales channels ensure that we can produce and ship directly from South Africa, making operations 

financially self-sufficient and locally independent yet fully integrated into the group’s global expertise.” 

Since investing in South Africa in late 2022, GCF has focused heavily on training and education. The entire 

team, including the Managing Director, consists of local employees. 

“Employees make the difference,” he says, sharing the company’s commitment to permanent positions. 

“When we took over Neethlingshof, we couldn’t take on Hill & Dale’s vineyards. Yet we retained the staff, 

viewing associated costs as an investment in the future. Our growth wouldn’t have been possible without 

them.” 

Schwunk believes international investors with established distribution networks are gateways for South 

African wines to enter global markets, benefiting investors and opening doors for other producers. 


BENGUELA COVE CELLAR MASTER, JOHANN FOURIE 

PENNY STREETER OBE, OWNER OF BENGUELA COVE, CELEBRATES LOCAL 

HERITAGE THROUGH ART, MUSIC, FOOD, WINE, EVENTS AND COMMUNITY 

ENGAGEMENT 

“Given South Africa’s geographic location, establishing overseas distribution channels can be capital-intensive, 

but GCF’s existing network mitigates that. Foreign investors not only revitalise their wineries, they 

also support local service industries. As more South African wines reach international shelves it boosts 

capital inflows, fostering a more sustainable industry and economy for all.” 

BENGUELA COVE: A STRATEGIC BLEND OF TOURISM 

AND COOL CLIMATE WINES 

Not long ago, motorists heading to the Cape’s top summer destinations turned heads as a striking wine 

cellar took shape at the gateway to Walker Bay, outside Hermanus. This was Benguela Cove Lagoon Wine 

Estate, the bold vision of English entrepreneur Penny Streeter OBE, who has since transformed it into a 

leading wine destination, the wines earning numerous awards. 

Streeter built a lucrative business in healthcare recruitment and entered the South African wine industry 

when she acquired Benguela Cove, followed by Leonardslee Lakes & Gardens in West Sussex, where the 

first Pinotage was planted in England. 

Initially motivated by the estate’s location facing the lagoon and surrounded by mountains, the growing 

demand for cool climate wines presented a profitable venture. She agrees South Africa’s unpredictable 

economy can affect costs and profitability which require careful planning to succeed, as seen in the estate’s 

restaurants, art gallery, and family entertainment offerings. 

“The quality of wines produced here is exceptional and wine tourism adds a competitive edge. Globally, the 

wine industry is competitive, with established regions dominating the market. However, the opportunities 

far outweigh any challenges,” Streeter explains. 


45

SOUTH AFRICA 

INVESTMENT 

BENGUELA COVE’S LONG TERM COMMITMENT INCLUDES SUSTAINABLE VITICULTURE, 

WATER CONSERVATION, RENEWABLE ENERGY, AND CULTURAL PRESERVATION 

Both their white and red wines impressed the tasting 

panel, with the Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2023 and 

Syrah 2022 earning 92, and the Estate Collage blend 

achieving a solid 91. 

Her business acumen from previous ventures laid 

a strong foundation for managing the wine estate, 

spreading risk effectively. 

“I was already invested in South Africa through 

my recruitment businesses, which made owning 

Benguela Cove easier, as I had the infrastructure 

to manage and grow the business. Leveraging my 

team’s expertise has been crucial to controlling costs 

and allocating resources effectively,” she explains. 

Streeter firmly believes foreign investments help 

transform South Africa’s wine industry by bringing 

technological advancements and contributing to 

economic growth needed to position South Africa as 

a global competitor. 

BROOKDALE ESTATE: 

CRAFTING A WORLD-CLASS 

EXPERIENCE IN PAARL 

THE BEAUTIFUL MANOR AT BROOKDALE WAS DESIGNED IN THE SPIRIT OF SOUTH AFRICA’S 

TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURE, BLENDING HERITAGE WITH ELEGANCE 

Tim Rudd, a UK property developer turned farmer, 

fell in love with South Africa through his father’s 

business trips. Now splitting his time between 

the UK and South Africa, Rudd brings his passion 

for vineyards to Brookdale Estate in Paarl. With 

farming experience in Chile, Rudd saw Brookdale 

as the perfect canvas to create a world-class wine 

experience. 

“Paarl is an underrated gem,” he says, explaining 

how he designed the estate to build anticipation 

from arrival to the manor house. Confident in the 

region’s potential, especially with high-end estates 

like Val de Vie nearby, Rudd believes a loyal clientele 

will naturally develop. 

Vineyard plantings started from scratch, using 

advanced technologies like solar and wind mapping 

to plant the right cultivars in the most suitable 

locations. With a focus on field blends, Brookdale 

grows a range of grapes, including the lesser-known 

Picpoul, known for its high acidity to balance ripeness 

in Paarl’s warm climate. 

“To farm well is more cost-effective in the long run.” 


SOUTH AFRICA 

INVESTMENT 

His passion for developing talent extends to upskilling 

workers with pruning, driving, and snake training 

courses. “True sustainability means leaving a 

legacy by empowering people”. 

Despite its challenges, Rudd believes South Africa 

is the most beautiful country in the world and 

has “turned a corner” in international perception 

thanks to trailblazing winemakers pioneering more 

refined wine styles now penetrating global markets. 

“The key to South Africa’s wine future is bringing 

in talented people and giving them space to shine.” 

BROOKDALE WINEMAKER, KIARA SCOTT 

FRIENDSHIP TO VINEYARDS: 

THE SAAGER FAMILY’S PATH TO 

OWNING EIKENDAL 

The Swiss Saager family’s path to owning Eikendal 

in Stellenbosch began with trading ventures 

in Indonesia in 1909. The late Bruno Saager, 

co-founder of Substantia AG (a Swiss financial 

holding company established in 1958), became the 

majority owner of the business, initially focusing on 

coffee and wheat farming. When Tanzania nationalised 

coffee farms in 1973, and wheat farming 

became unprofitable by 1980, the family shifted 

their focus to the Cape’s wine industry, influenced 

by Bruno’s close friendship with South African 

businessman Dr Anton Rupert. 

Ownership of Substantia AG passed to Bruno’s son, 

Prof. Rudolf Saager, and his grandsons, Erik, Nick, 

and Christian. Today, Christian represents the 

board as Eikendal Vineyard’s success takes centre 

stage, their sophisticated Eikendal Cabernet Sauvignon 

Merlot 2022 scoring 91. 

“After evaluating the vine-growing potential, we 

acquired two farms straddling Eikendal Road 

in 1981 and consolidated them into Eikendal 

Vineyards. A replanting program and construction 

of a modern cellar followed,” says Saager. 

In 1997, Saager left his teaching career in Switzerland 

to join the family business, applying his experience 

from owning a wine shop to the complexities 

of breaking into overseas wine markets. 

“Consumers often buy wines they discover on 

holiday in countries like Italy and France with 

NO STONE WAS LEFT UNTURNED IN CREATING A FOUNDATION 

FOR EXCELLENT WINES AT BROOKDALE 


47

EIKENDAL WINEMAKER SINCE 2022, ALDERT NIEUWOUDT 

EIKENDAL BLENDS INTO THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT, NESTLED BENEATH OLD 

TREES WITH A MAJESTIC MOUNTAIN BACKDROP 

larger marketing budgets. Chile, for example, benefits from government subsidies. Competing without 

South African government support is tough,” Saager explains. 

Despite the hurdles, the Saagers have remained committed to Eikendal for over 43 years, operating without 

a traditional CEO structure and opting for a flat team hierarchy. 

“The team, including the winemaker, viticulturist, finance department, lodge manager, myself as the 

board representative, middle management, and workers, functions as a close-knit family, built on trust 

and a common goal.” 

Eikendal has become an increasingly important part of the company’s portfolio, “and we are in it for the 

long haul,” says Saager, who visits Eikendal every three months. A beautiful guesthouse, Eikendal Lodge, 

became a successful second line of income, adding to the wine tourism offering in the area. 

“We strive to break even and sometimes achieve that, but we subsidise the business through other 

ventures. Still, we have made great progress. Naming wines after my niece Janina and my daughter Nadine 

shows we’re here to stay.” 

ASARA’S AFRICAN CONNECTION 

Markus Rahmann, owner of Asara Wine Estate and Hotel, brought his Namibian-German roots and global 

business acumen to South Africa, evident in the estate’s offerings, from the hotel interior to restaurants 

and art. Having lived in China for 15 years, where he built his interior lighting factory, Rahmann felt drawn 

back to the African continent and first visited South Africa in 1998. 

“I came to South Africa when everyone else seemed to be leaving, and looking back, it was the right 

decision for my family’s lifestyle,” Rahmann reflects. “There were no roads, no trees, and no buildings. 

I replanted 140 hectares in two years - today, I’d consider myself mad for doing that.” 

His love for space and refinement led to the restoration of 180 hectares and a newly-built cellar, where they 

embrace an old-world approach to their winemaking style. 


SOUTH AFRICA 

INVESTMENT 

Rahmann’s dedication is palpable in the estate’s 

offerings, which have expanded Asara into a diverse 

wine tourism destination, including restaurants, 

lounges, bars, a bakery, and even in-house chocolate 

manufacturing, creating an immersive and 

high-end guest experience. 

ASARA WINE ESTATE AND HOTEL, OWNED BY THE RAHMANN FAMILY, HAS ESTABLISHED 

ITSELF AS A PRIME TOURIST DESTINATION IN STELLENBOSCH 

AALDERING’S PURSUIT OF THE 

PERFECT VINEYARD 

Aaldering Vineyards & Wines in Devon Valley, 

Stellenbosch, came to life through the vision of 

Gert-Jan Posthuma’s in-laws, Marianne & Fons 

Aaldering, driven by their passion for wine and 

fine dining. After searching globally for the ideal 

vineyard, they discovered it in South Africa in 2004, 

making all investments through their Dutch holding 

company. 

“It had to be a small, boutique, and manageable 

vineyard with high-quality soils,” Posthuma, 

the International Sales and Marketing manager 

explains,” and Aaldering Vineyards & Wines had 

everything to become a success,” as seen with both 

the Aaldering Pinotage Blanc de Noir 2024 and 

Aaldering Lady M 2022 scoring gold. 

After proving the potential of grape farming, they 

built a winery, a 5-star guesthouse, a winemaker’s 

cottage, a bottle maturation cellar for 180,000 

bottles, and a manager’s cottage. 

“The quality of life here is outstanding,” says 

Posthuma. The combination of wine tourism and 

exceptional hospitality is unique and hard to match 

anywhere else.” 

MARIANNE & FONS AALDERING (HERE WITH GERT-JAN POSTHUMA AND JACQUELINE 

AALDERING) TRANSFORMED THEIR HOBBY AT AALDERING VINEYARDS INTO A SERIOUS 

VENTURE, PRODUCING FINE WINES RARELY FOUND AT SUCH VALUE IN EUROPE 

The synergy between foreign investment and South 

African expertise helps create a robust, competitive 

wine industry fuelled by the country’s rich heritage, 

diverse terroir, and rising global profile. From major 

corporations to small family-owned estates, these 

investments drive sustainability, elevating Brand 

South Africa on the world stage. As international 

investors increasingly recognise the wine industry’s 

long-term potential, South Africa’s standing in the 

global wine market is not just secure - it’s becoming 

indispensable. 


49

CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE-VILLAGES, 

THE ARCHIPELAGO WITH 22 ISLANDS 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


They are some of France’s most beautiful villages. The vibrant array of 

vineyard sites and styles within the generic appellation Côtes-du-Rhône 

form a constellation of 22 designations all named after them. But this unique 

feature is not their only attraction – they also show stellar quality and great 

appeal. Join us on a guided tour. 

A SPLENDID AUTUMN SCENE AT DOMAINE ESCALIN 

LÉGENDES 


RHONE VALLEY 

APPELLATION 

CHÂTEAU BIZARD IS A BEAUTIFUL BUILDING SET IN THE HEART OF UNSPOILT, NATURAL SURROUNDINGS 

The foolproof formula embodies perfect balance. Over the past few years, 

the appellation has undergone a sea-change and secured a significant place 

alongside the legendary names that are Hermitage, Condrieu, Côte-Rôtie and 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Despite its relatively small footprint of 8,000 hectares 

located entirely in the southern part of the Rhone Valley, 22 villages have been 

singled out for their specific qualities and warrant a complementary geographical 

designation: Chusclan, Gadagne, Laudun, Massif-d’Uchaux, Nyons, Plande-Dieu, 

Puyméras, Roaix, Rochegude, Rousset-les-Vignes, Sablet, Saint-Andéol, 

Saint-Gervais, Saint-Maurice, Saint-Pantaléon-les-Vignes, Sainte-Cécile, Séguret, 

Signargues, Suze-la-Rousse, Vaison-la-Romaine, Valréas and Visan. Within this 

galaxy, the red wines are defined by the warm characters of Grenache – half the 

blend – which resonates with its blending partners Syrah and Mourvèdre. The 

highly aromatic whites and rosés wow with their fine, flavourful and energetic 

mouthfeel. Such great balance inevitably leads to a place on tables and bars across 

the globe, piquing the curiosity of patrons drawn to the prices, then bowled over 

by the pleasure of drinking structured, racy wines, as exemplified by the following 

six wineries. 

MAISON M. CHAPOUTIER: 

ROC FOLASSIÈRE AND ITS CHARACTERFUL WINES 

Nestled amidst the garrigue, Roc Folassière factors in every aspect of a successful 

quest. The winery was acquired by the storied Maison M. Chapoutier in 2015, 


51

MICHEL CHAPOUTIER, 

THE OWNER OF MAISON 

CHAPOUTIER AND ROC 

FOLASSIÈRE 

keen to broaden its portfolio by incorporating the remarkable potential of old-vine 

Grenache and Syrah on felicitous limestone soils. “Our wines reflect our commitment 

to quality and respect for vines and their characteristics”, stresses the group’s 

PR officer, Amandine Bodin. “They are made with utmost care so that they become 

mirrors to their terroirs and comply with the strict criteria for eligibility to the 

appellation”. The winery boasts a specific microclimate which adds relative freshness 

to the wines. The vineyards are mostly covered with a mantle of stones and 

limestone slabs over a clayey matrix and loess soils. Labelled Côtes-du-Rhône 

Villages Signargues, Agrioto displays distinctive aromas of black fruits like blackberry 

and blackcurrant, coupled with garrigue notes of thyme and rosemary. The 

wine is produced in the appellation’s most southerly village, where the climate is 

markedly Mediterranean, facing the sun. Its clay-limestone and pebble-strewn soils 

contribute to the richness and depth of Signargues wines. Their tannin structure 

is generally robust and well-integrated and offers great complexity and length on 

the palate. “The Côtes-du-Rhône appellation with the village name appended to it 

is often viewed as an extra guarantee of quality by knowledgeable consumers”, adds 

Bodin. “The name of the village can enhance recognition and value. It specifies a 

particular terroir, more restrictive and specific geographical area and often higher 

quality. Consequently, the wines tend to stand out easier”. 


THE TEAM 

AT DOMAINE ESCALIN 

DOMAINE ESCALIN: THE POWER OF APPELLATIONS 

A regional institution, Domaine Escalin has established a firm rooting in the history of 

Drôme Provençale by perpetuating ancient techniques and traditions with a focus on 

excellence. At the end of 2022, the property was bought by the Autajon family, owners 

of the namesake packaging company in Montélimar. Deep pebbles promote drainage 

in the vineyards and allow the sunshine to warm the soil deep down. The vines bask in 

a distinctive climate and benefit from the Mistral wind, which cleanses and cools both 

the leaves and the fruit. The winery farms two different areas – Vergobbi plateau, where 

pebbles are strewn over clay, and Escalin which is home to characteristic limestone 

shards over sandy-clay silt. “Appellations play a pivotal role in building up an identity”, 

explains sales manager Régina Campello. “A village name provides a piece of geographical 

information, the acclaim and reputation of a place. It offers instant recognition 

which facilitates sales”. Domaine Escalin’s wines are divided into three segments, in 

addition to which are sparkling wines. The entry-level range embraces the Poésie d’été 

rosé – a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah – the Escale Enchantée white made from 

80% Viognier, 10% Roussanne and 10% Marsanne and the red, Promesse, blended from 

65% Grenache and 35% Syrah. The intermediary and high-end labels focus on reds and 

include Secret du Pin, 75% Syrah and 25% Grenache, defined by its fine cherry notes, 


53

RHONE VALLEY 

APPELLATION 

complex, spice-driven palate and a silky finish with fine-grain tannins. Superbe Idylle, 

blended from 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah beguiles with its remarkable depth and 

great intensity driven by black fruit aromas. 

CHÂTEAU BIZARD: THE ADVANTAGE OF TERROIR 

Château Bizard’s impressive history began in 1862. Eugène Missol, the first generation 

of winegrowers among the current owners, planted vines on hillsides located 

on the high ground South of the small village of Allan, which has been renowned 

for growing vines since the 17 th century. Situated in the southern part of the Rhone 

Valley, the winery is home to sub-soils formed of limestone scree over blue marl. 

Generous sunshine and the Mistral wind provide extremely propitious natural 

factors. “Our wines can be defined by their structure and its rich tannins along 

with their good ageability”, comments estate manager Antoine Sohier. “The soils 

here are riverbed limestone whereas many of our colleagues farm on clayey, pebble 

or sandy soils. Therefore, our entry-level wines mirror the trademark appellation 

style with more fruit and an easy-drinking, supple mouthfeel, whilst our high-end 

labels lean more towards wines produced in more northerly landscapes”. From 

ANTOINE SOHIER AND LAURENT JOANNON OF CHÂTEAU BIZARD 


WORK IN THE VINEYARDS 

AT DOMAINE ESCALIN 

DOMAINE ESCALIN’S 

WINEMAKER GWENAËLLE 

CONTINI AND SOME 

OF HER TEAM 

MARC LÉPINE, THE OWNER 

OF CHÂTEAU BIZARD 


55

RHONE VALLEY 

APPELLATION 

one village to another, the flavours regularly show 

concentrated fruit, frequently on the over-ripe 

side with tertiary aromas of spices when they are 

matured in oak. “The Côtes-du-Rhône appellation 

is recognised and visible internationally”, claims 

Sohier. “But competition is made stiffer by the 

number of players and a market that is shrinking. 

Every winery has to establish its own strategy. Our 

aim is that the appellation is recognised and we 

work hard to introduce it to fine wine enthusiasts 

and ensure they enjoy it”. 

CLAIRE CLAVEL IN HER WINERY 

REMARKABLE SOILS AND LANDSCAPES 

DOMAINE CLAVEL: 

THE BENEFITS OF THE RIGHT 

BANK OF THE RHONE 

Saint-Gervais, on the right bank of the Rhone, has a 

typical southern French accent and is one of the 22 

Côtes-du-Rhône Villages designations. Its vines are 

buffeted by the Mistral wind which cools the Mediterranean 

climate. Its hillsides enjoy a good South-facing 

aspect and are home to windblown sand, clay-limestone 

soils and a cooler, windy plateau. Claire 

Clavel can trace her family’s winegrowing roots back 

to 1640 and makes it her daily mission to continue 

a history spanning several generations. With the 

support of her father Denis Clavel, she farms 100 

hectares of vines, prioritising character, authenticity, 

the environment and preservation of the ecosystem’s 

biological diversity. “We have a broad collection of 

wines ranging from Protected Geographical Indication 

(PGI) to Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Saint-Gervais 

and Chusclan. Every village has different soil types, 

promoting great diversity. But there are always the 

varietal range staples like Grenache and Syrah so 

typicity is the same. The winegrower’s touch is what 

makes the difference”. The Côtes-du-Rhône Villages 

Saint-Gervais Syrius and Cordélia for Chusclan 

are authentic, structured and complex wines with 

length on the palate. “Despite what you might think, 

a village name does not necessarily make things 

easier for us”, adds Clavel. “Most of our vines are in 

the Saint-Gervais appellation which is still under 

the radar – many people mistake it for the namesake 

town at the foot of Mont Blanc. So you have to 


DENIS CLAVEL 


57

RHONE VALLEY 

APPELLATION 

make a name for yourself. In 2020, we founded the 

AOC Saint-Gervais producers’ organisation in order 

to secure greater awareness of the appellation and 

publicise it. One of our trump cards is that our wines 

offer excellent value for money”. 

A BLENDING SESSION CURATED BY XAVIER VIGNON 

XAVIER VIGNON: 

A CREATIVE BENT 

An artisan and master craftsman, Xavier Vignon 

is never short of initiative, combining entrepreneurship 

with subtle inspiration. His stints in 

Champagne and Bordeaux have left a lasting 

impression on him and he favours the freedom to 

blend – he starts off with an idea then strives to 

achieve the best possible end result. By combining 

different grape varieties – grown on limestone and 

sandy soils – in the same wine, he instils great 

complexity and offers an alternative emphasis on 

natural conditions. In the same way a perfumer 

would, he crafts the most judicious fragrance, the 

most faithful rendition of his aesthetics by pre-selecting 

a vineyard block and a grape variety based 

on their resonance, before ultimately achieving the 

most appealing and most harmonious composition. 

“There is no rule book”, he explains. “We take 

the liberty of producing wines without emphasising 

the appellation as the main ‘gateway’. At the 

moment, though, we do not work with village-designated 

appellations”. The Arcane Le Soleil label 

is primarily a blend of old-vine Grenache with very 

limited yields, Mourvèdre over 80 years old and 

50-year-old Syrah. The vines face the rising sun on 

cool hillsides in the northern part of Vaucluse. L’Arcane 

La Fortune has a majority share of Grenache 

but the intent is to seek out a Cinsault style, with a 

trace of Mourvèdre lending structure and balance 

bordering on perfection. 

MAISON OGIER: 

A SHARED SIGNATURE STYLE 

Founded in 1859, Maison Ogier is based in 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the heart of one of the 


RHONE VALLEY 

APPELLATION 

South of France’s most prestigious appellations. 

Focusing on subtle variations in the character 

of the wines and a sustained vine purchasing 

strategy, the company successfully combines 

a variety of soils, climates and grape varieties 

whilst at the same time maintaining balance, 

assertiveness and precision in each of its labels. 

Its Côtes-du-Rhône Villages wines display a 

shared signature style that is sought-after in 

each of the appellations – this is defined by the 

purity of the fruit, depth and freshness. “Diversity 

is what makes Côtes-du-Rhône Villages 

wines such a treasure trove”, feels PR manager 

Marion Souchiere. “Rhone Valley typicity is there, 

but due to the multiple vineyard sites across the 

region, each one has a unique style. To achieve 

this, our blends feature between 60% and 70% 

Grenache and we work differently every vintage 

with the same focus on replicating our signature 

style by factoring in harvest dates, winemaking 

and maturation techniques”. 

ÉDOUARD GUÉRIN, THE WINEMAKER AT MAISON OGIER 

GENUINE EXPORT POTENTIAL 

The vast majority of Côtes-du-Rhône Villages are 

made as red wines, representing approximately 

94% of volumes. These rich, powerful, complex 

wines boast strong appeal and also the ability to 

age for up to ten years. A constant, unwavering 

quest for quality and the remarkable work of the 

winegrowers, who have made a wholehearted 

commitment to the appellation, have made it 

a benchmark, known for its complex aromatic 

spectrum, great structure, generous character, 

good ageability and truly appealing value for 

money. In addition to this, their range of aromatics 

makes them suitable for a very broad array of 

food pairings. “We are seeing interest in Côtesdu-Rhône 

Villages both in France and internationally”, 

claims Amandine Bodin, PR officer with 

Maison M. Chapoutier. “Consumers are increasingly 

looking for site-specific wines offering 

premium quality”. All of these assets have the 

ability to leverage export growth, particularly in 

European, American and Asian markets. 

MAISON OGIER IS BASED IN CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 


59

HOW VALPOLICELLA RECONCILES 

TRADITION WITH A GLOBAL VISION 

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


The Valpolicella wine region is located in the province of Verona in northeastern 

Italy’s vinous powerhouse that is Veneto. Rolling landscapes and 

quality wines are two of its defining features. Read on to find out what other 

factors make the region unique. 

DURING THE APPASSIMENTO PROCESS, THE VENTILATION OF PROVOLO’S FRUIT CELLAR MAKES THE MOST OF THE NATURAL CLIMATE, AIDED BY A 

SYSTEM DESIGNED TO TREAT THE AIR, COOL IT AND/OR REMOVE HUMIDITY VERY GRADUALLY 

LÉGENDES 


ITALY 

TERRITORY 

EXTENSIVE KNOWLEDGE OF THE REGION ALLOWS PASQUA TO APPROACH THE INCEPTION (OR REINTERPRETATION) OF EACH WINE DIFFERENTLY 

V 

alpolicella is a land of hills and mountains, with altitudes ranging from 100 to 600 metres above 

sea level. Its hilly terrain contributes to the quality of the grapes, offering them soils with better 

drainage and optimal exposure to sunshine. The Mediterranean climate favours longer hang times, 

which play a pivotal role in the development of complex aromas in the wines. The key grape varieties 

here are Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara and Oseleta but also lesser known varieties such 

as Forselina and Negrara. The soils comprise a mixture of clay, limestone and gravel and this diversity 

promotes variety in the local wines, impacting their aromatic profile and structure. 

The Valpolicella appellation area covers over 8,500 hectares across 19 localities that stretch from the 

hills to Verona. The vineyards are managed by some 2,200 winegrowers, alongside 316 bottling firms 

and six co-operatives. 2023 production was in excess of 61 million bottles, spanning the Valpolicella, 

Valpolicella Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto labels and 60 percent of the wines were exported to 87 

countries around the world. 

The region fans outwards from the foothills west of Lake Garda and is sheltered by the Lessini Mountains 

to the east and north. It is divided into three main zones: 

- The Classic Zone which includes five areas: Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella, San Pietro in Cariano, and 

the valleys of Fumane, Marano and Negrar. 

- The Valpantena Zone which includes Valpantena valley. 

- The DOC zone which includes the districts of Verona and the valleys of Illasi, Tramigna and Mezzane. 

The wines produced in the appellation are: 

Valpolicella DOC, which can also be Valpolicella DOC Classico and Valpolicella DOC Valpantena, 

depending on the production area. This is the most direct, fresh and versatile expression of the region. 

Valpolicella Superiore DOC, as well as Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore and Valpolicella DOC 

Valpantena Superiore, is a wine that matures for at least a year, resulting in lower acidity and greater 

roundness than Valpolicella. 

Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, which can also be Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Classico or Valpolicella Ripasso 


61

ITALY 

TERRITORY 

SIBLINGS LORENZO, ANTONIETTA, SABRINA AND RICCARDO RUN THE TEDESCHI WINERY 

WHERE THEY RECONCILE RESPECT FOR FAMILY TRADITIONS WITH A FORWARD-LOOKING 

APPROACH 

THE TEDESCHI WINERY IS LOCATED IN THE CENTRE OF PEDEMONTE, IN THE HEART OF THE 

VALPOLICELLA CLASSIC AREA 

DOC Valpantena, is made through an ancient technique 

involving re-fermentation on the pomace of 

Amarone or Recioto. The process enriches the wine 

with complex aromas and flavours. 

Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG, as well as Recioto 

della Valpolicella DOCG Classico and Valpantena, are 

made from grapes dried for around 120 days. They 

display a garnet-red hue and aromas of black cherry, 

violets and spices. There is also a sparkling version. 

Lastly, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, which 

includes Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 

and Valpantena, is made from raisins and undergoes 

a mandatory ageing period of two to four years, 

developing considerable complexity. Appassimento 

or rather the ‘technique of laying the grapes to rest’ 

in Valpolicella has been nominated as Unesco heritage. 

Appassimento is a complex drying technique, 

which begins with hand selection of the healthiest 

and ripest grapes placed in specific conditions so 

that water evaporates and sugars and other key 

substances can be concentrated. This results in a 

reduction in grape weight of up to 50 percent and a 

transformation of berry metabolism, increasing the 

concentration of polyphenols, sugars and organic 

acidity and providing the wines with longevity and 

unique organoleptic characteristics. The technique, 

which can take place in climate-controlled facilities 

or natural fruit orchards, takes a long time and leads 

to a significant loss of product, but ensures greater 

aromatic quality and structure in the wine. 

To gain a better understanding of the region, its 

history and the local wines, we have selected a 

number of wineries whose differing characteristics 

offer an all-round overview. 

TEDESCHI WINES, A FAMILY 

STORY MARKED BY FORESIGHT 

AND RESPECT 

The Tedeschi family’s story began in 1630 when it 

purchased land in the area. Winemaking has been 

documented here since 1824. In the 1960s, Lorenzo 

Tedeschi discovered the potential of grapes from 

the Monte Olmi vineyard, purchased in 1918, and 

began vinifying them separately, creating the wine- 


ITALY 

TERRITORY 

ry’s signature Amarone. Today, Lorenzo’s children, 

Antonietta, Sabrina and Riccardo, run the winery, 

keeping the family traditions alive. The Tedeschis 

own 48 hectares of vineyards in hilly areas, growing 

mainly Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta. 

Annual production is in the range of half a million 

bottles, divided between different labels of Valpolicella 

and Amarone. 

The Tedeschi winery stands out for its balance 

of tradition and innovation, with a deep-rooted 

knowledge of Valpolicella’s terroir. The production 

of Amarone and Valpolicella is focused on vineyards 

between 200 and 500 m above sea level, selected for 

their potential, where the soils are calcareous-marl 

with a good mineral profile. The breezy climate 

favours aromas and colour in the wines. The winery 

is certified sustainable according to the Equalitas 

and Biodiversity Friend protocols as it implements 

agricultural practices that promote biodiversity 

and enhance the environment. To ensure quality, 

the winery has been using a controlled appassimento 

system since 1989, with a fruit cellar built 

in 2005 to manage temperatures, ventilation and 

humidity levels. A recently opened wine cellar holds 

some 27,000 bottles of back vintages, with 6,800 

bottles available for tasting and sale, offering a 

unique resource for collectors and restaurateurs. 

The company’s main wines include Valpolicella 

Superiore, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Amarone 

della Valpolicella Classico Riserva and Amarone 

Riserva. Tedeschi is a pioneer in Valpolicella cru 

wines, where its approach elicits terroir characters 

in its complex, elegant wines. Around 80% of 

the wines are exported to over 50 countries, with 

the main markets being Canada, Germany, the 

UK, Holland, Northern Europe, Switzerland, Asia 

and Australia. 

THE TEDESCHI WINERY’S RECENTLY OPENED WINE LIBRARY 

CONTAINS AROUND 27,000 BOTTLES OF BACK VINTAGES 

THE IDEALLY LOCATED PROVOLO VINEYARDS ARE FARMED ORGANICALLY BY THE 

FAMILY ITSELF WHICH HARVESTS THE FRUIT BY HAND 

PROVOLO WINES, 

WHERE PASSION, QUALITY 

AND SUSTAINABILITY ARE GUIDING 

PRINCIPLES 

Since 1927, the Provolo family has been producing 

wine in the hilly valley of Mezzane, near Verona, 


63

THE ENTIRE PROVOLO FAMILY 

LOOKS TOWARDS THE FUTURE BUT 

ALSO DRAWS ON THE EXPERIENCE 

OF FOUR GENERATIONS 

which has been renowned for its wine growing traditions since Roman times. The family, which 

has been farming the vineyards for four generations, has established an important winemaking 

tradition. Guglielmo Provolo started the business in the early 20th century when he purchased 

the land. His son Luigino later expanded the winery despite the difficulties of the Second World 

War. Marco Provolo, Luigino’s successor, modernised the company while upholding tradition, and 

today he is joined by his children Matteo and Alessia, who continue to innovate while showing 

respect for their heritage. The vineyards, located at an altitude of 350-450 metres with a southwest 

aspect, are managed in-house and enjoy a favourable climate with rich, rocky, moist soils. 

The grapes are harvested by hand. 

The main varieties grown are Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, Raboso Veronese and 

Oseleta red grapes, and Garganega white grapes. The company produces around 150,000 bottles a 

year across 14 different labels, including Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto, and IGT wines 

that allow for greater experimentation. Provolo’s production philosophy is based on a commitment 

to excellence and quality at every stage of the process, from agronomy through to ageing. The 

winery uses stainless steel and cement tanks and prolonged ageing in wood to ensure balanced 

and complex wines. It favours sustainable practices, farming its vineyards organically and using 

environmentally-friendly cleaning methods, along with eco-friendly packaging. Its main foreign 

markets are Canada and the United States, though demand from Northern Europe and emerging 

markets such as Romania and Albania is growing. 

PASQUA, AKA THE ‘HOUSE OF THE UNCONVENTIONAL’ 

Founded in Verona in 1925, Pasqua is a historic winery helmed today by the third generation of the 

Pasqua family. Its headquarters are located in San Felice in the Valpantena area and its main Valpo- 


PRESENT-DAY CHAIRMAN 

UMBERTO PASQUA HAS THE HELP 

OF HIS SONS RICCARDO (CEO) 

AND ALESSANDRO (PRESIDENT OF 

THE PASQUA USA DIVISION) 

TO RUN THE BUSINESS 

licella vineyards are located in Montevegro. While the company specialises in Valpolicella wines 

such as Amarone and Ripasso, it also produces white wines (34.1%), sparkling wines (16.2%) and 

rosés (8.7%). Innovation and experimentation are central to the philosophy of Pasqua, which stands 

out for its unconventional approach, as evidenced by its manifesto ‘House of the Unconventional’. 

Pasqua Vini leverages its extensive knowledge of the region to create distinctive wines, which 

aim to give a more contemporary image and taste to the wines of Valpolicella and beyond. The 

winery combines almost 100 years of winemaking tradition with a strong drive for research and 

experimentation, making Pasqua one of the most forward-looking wineries in the area. Pasqua 

is certainly among the most important ambassadors of Veneto wines. The winery is active in 70 

countries and in 2023 was among the leading Italian wineries in terms of exports (87.6%) and 

turnover (60.9 million euro). 

CANTINA VALPOLICELLA NEGRAR, 

THE BIRTHPLACE OF AMARONE 

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar was founded in 1933 and is located in the heart of the Valpolicella 

Classico zone. It currently has 240 member growers who sustainably farm over 700 hectares 

of vineyards located mainly in the hills, more than 100 of them certified organic. The wines are 

divided into two lines, the premium Domìni Veneti and Cantina di Negrar, and the winery focuses 

on producing high quality wines which best capture the essence of the region. Production totals 

approximately 9.5 million bottles a year and includes Valpolicella wines: Amarone, whose name 

was coined in the 1930s by the winery, Ripasso, Recioto, Valpolicella Classico and other Veronese 

DOC zones. 


65

ITALY 

TERRITORY 

THE MODERN AGEING CELLAR AT THE CANTINA VALPOLICELLA NEGRAR IS DESIGNED TO 

HOUSE FINE WINES SUCH AS AMARONE, RIPASSO AND RECIOTO 

AT THE CANTINA VALPOLICELLA DI NEGRAR THERE IS A SMALL BUT INTERESTING 

EXHIBITION – THE APPASSIMENTO MUSEUM 

In 1987, Cantina Valpolicella Negrar launched a 

quality-focused project which became known as 

‘Domìni Veneti’. It was the first to be dedicated to 

recognising the best of Valpolicella Classico whose 

production amounts to 1.4 million bottles. Its 

current management features chairman Giampaolo 

Brunelli, director and winemaker Daniele Accordini, 

sales director Eva Maria Vanajas and marketing and 

communications director Michele Battistoni. The 

winery’s key strength is its short supply chain and 

the main varieties it farms are Corvina, Corvinone, 

Rondinella, as well as other native and non-native 

varieties such as Spigamonti, Dindarella and Oseleta. 

Every year, over 30,000 quintals of the main indigenous 

varieties are brought to the Cantina so that 

they can undergo the appassimento process, making 

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar the largest producer of 

Amarone della Valpolicella Classica. Amarone was 

born in the original location of the wine cooperative 

through a ‘mistake’ made during the winemaking 

process for a Recioto. Originally, only Recioto was 

produced in Valpolicella. Once the fermentation 

process was complete, the yeasts transformed the 

sugars into alcohol, giving the Recioto a dry and 

bitter taste, which is why Amarone was originally 

called Recioto Secco or Amaro. The birth of Amarone 

is shrouded in mystery. Legend has it that it dates 

back to 1936 when Adelino Lucchese, the cellar master 

at the Cantina Sociale Valpolicella, tasted a glass of 

Recioto tapped from a barrel that had been forgotten 

in the winery and exclaimed: ‘This is not an Amaro, 

it is an Amarone’. 

For a long time Recioto was considered more prestigious 

than Amarone and it took many decades 

for Amarone to establish itself on the national and 

international scene as one of the best red dessert 

wines of all time. The first label and the first sales 

document date back to 1938 however Amarone was 

only actively sold from 1953 onwards by Valpolicella 

Negrar. In 1968, the first production specifications 

were approved and Amarone was granted DOC 

(Denominazione di Origine Controllata) status. Sales 

of Amarone and the winery’s other wines are split 

roughly evenly between Italy and overseas, with 

export destinations including the United States, UK, 

Germany, Scandinavia and Russia. 


ITALY 

TERRITORY 

CANTINA BISCARDO, 

WINES WITH CHARACTER AND 

INTERNATIONAL APPEAL 

BISCARDO WINES IS RUN FROM VERONA BY BROTHERS MAURIZIO AND MARTINO, 

WITH THE VALUABLE SUPPORT OF MADDALENA BISCARDO 

Cantina Biscardo, founded in 1878 in Bussolengo 

by Terenzio Biscardo, began as a wine supplier 

for Alpine troops during the First World War and 

evolved into a company dedicated exclusively to wine 

production. The founder’s sons Pompilio and Luigi 

expanded the range of wines to include Valpolicella, 

Bardolino, Merlot and Amarone. The company grew 

and expanded internationally, reaching Germany, 

England, America and other markets. 

Today, the winery is managed by Maurizio, Martino 

and Maddalena (Martino’s daughter) and produces 

about 6 million bottles a year. The wines produced 

in Valpolicella are Ripasso and Amarone Classico 

Superiore and the labels combine creativity, innovation, 

respect for the region and an international 

vision with skilful use of appassimento and wood. 

The production philosophy prioritises quality at 

every stage of the process, with a constant focus on 

respect for the environment. The aim is to achieve 

consistent quality and therefore be able to respond 

to the needs of international markets with wines 

that have a strong regional identity and their own 

persona. Biscardo wines are distributed worldwide. 

In Europe, they can be found in markets such as 

Denmark, Germany, England, Ireland, Holland, 

Belgium, Spain and France and in eastern countries 

such as Poland, Albania and Estonia. Their reach 

also extends beyond Europe with exports to the 

US, South America, Canada, Singapore, Thailand, 

Vietnam, China, Australia and Mozambique. 

AT THE END OF THE 19 TH CENTURY, THE BISCARDO FAMILY HAD INTERESTS 

IN TEXTILES AND VITICULTURE WHILE GRANDMOTHER TERESA RAN 

THE ‘TRE CORONE’ HOTEL IN POSTA 

ANTICHE TERRE VENETE, 

A SEAMLESS FUSION OF 

TRADITION AND INNOVATION 

In the heart of the Valpantena, one of Veneto’s 

most renowned winegrowing areas, lies Antiche 

Terre Venete, a family-run winery with a history 

of passion and dedication to wine. Founded jointly 

in 2009 by the Sancassani and Degani families, the 

winery covers over 70 hectares of vineyards located 


67

LUCIANO SANCASSANI AND RICCARDO DEGANI BROUGHT TOGETHER THEIR 

KNOWLEDGE AND PASSION TO CREATE ANTICHE TERRE VENETE 

THE VINEYARDS OF ANTICHE TERRE VENETE COVER MORE THAN 

50 HECTARES, 15 OF THEM IN THE NATURAL AMPHITHEATRE OF SEZANO 

in Sezano, a hillside town that rises from 150 to 600 metres above sea level and benefits from the cool 

air currents flowing off the Lessini Mountains. 

The winery is a seamless fusion of tradition and innovation. Luciano Sancassani brings his experience 

in vineyard management whilst winemaker Davide Degani handles the winemaking process 

and packaging. They are supported by Roberta and Riccardo, who look after marketing and sales 

respectively. This family synergy guarantees a constant quest for quality and commitment to producing 

fine wines. 

The vineyards are defined by schist soils which are ideal for vines due to their ability to absorb minerals 

and valuable substances. The red grape varieties farmed include Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella 

and annual production totals approximately 1,300,000 bottles. 

The company’s production ethos revolves around minimal intervention both in the vineyard and in 

the cellar in order to preserve the purity of the product. Harvesting is carried out almost exclusively 

by hand, with particular attention paid to the selection of grapes for appassimento. Antiche Terre 

Venete stands out for its flagship wines: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Ripasso Superiore DOC 

and Ripasso Biologico. The wines, which mirror the Valpolicella area, have achieved significant recognition 

and are enjoyed in major markets such as Scandinavia and the United States. The winery 

combines family heritage with a modern and innovative vision, crafting wines that tell the story and 

the unique character of this fascinating wine region. 

RUBINELLI VAJOL AND ITS UNMISTAKABLE CHARACTERS TRAITS 

Vajol’s vineyards, located in the centre of the historic Valpolicella area, are quintessentially regional 

with their ancient farmhouse, winery and landscape of indigenous vineyards, dry stone walls and 

olive, almond and cherry trees. The wine produced here encapsulates this gentle beauty through 


ITALY 

TERRITORY 

the slow ripening of the grapes in a sunny vale, their 

drying and their maturation in oak barrels housed 

in the cellar hewn out of the tufa. The winery has 10 

hectares of vines and its soils comprise calcareous 

marl dating back millions of years. Ideal for controlling 

the natural vigour of the vines, the soils have the 

ability to retain water which supports balanced grape 

growth. The wines produced here are renowned for 

their elegance and complexity. 

All the fruit comes from the vineyards surrounding 

Corte Sant’Anna, lending the wines unmistakable 

quality and identity. The soils which are limestone 

and tufa with varying amounts of clay and skeletal 

soil, influence the typicality of the wines. Sustainability 

is a core value at the winery, which has eliminated 

herbicides and synthetic fertilisers in favour 

of mechanical weeding and green manure. The practice, 

which involves sowing and burying more than 

20 grass and legume species, improves soil vitality 

and enriches natural organic substance. Harvesting 

is done entirely by hand to ensure optimal results. 

Every choice, both in the field and in the cellar, is 

guided by the teachings of Prof. Roberto Ferrarini, 

who has passed on the importance of maintaining 

excellence in wine production. The Vajol countryside 

is not just a wine region but an example of how tradition 

and sustainability can merge to create wines of 

extraordinary quality. The company’s main markets 

are Italy, USA, Switzerland, Germany, Holland, 

China, Canada, Austria, Belgium, UK, France, 

Hungary, Czech Republic, Thailand and Vietnam. 

Valpolicella is undoubtably one of the most 

renowned and prestigious wine regions, both in 

Italy and worldwide. Local production is reaching 

new heights thanks to a combination of centuries-old 

traditions and technological innovation, 

with a growing focus on sustainability and on the 

quality of the end product. The arrival of new generations 

has been fundamental as has the desire to 

make Amarone and Ripasso more contemporary. 

The wines, which ran the risk of becoming anachronistic, 

have benefited from a vision more geared 

towards freshness and elegance. They thus continue 

to best represent the area’s potential, not to mention 

the versatility of Valpolicella Doc and the complexity 

and depth of flavour of Recioto. 

THE OLD FARMHOUSE, THE CELLAR, THE CORTE SANT’ANNA AND THE VINE-CLAD 

LANDSCAPE OF VAIOL WITH ITS DRY-STONE WALLS KNOWN LOCALLY 

AS ‘MAROGNE’ AND ITS OLIVE, ALMOND AND CHERRY TREES, 

EPITOMISE THE BEAUTY OF THE VALPOLICELLA AREA 

THE FIRST DOCUMENT FOUND IN CONNECTION WITH THE VAJOL CRU 

DATES BACK TO 1635 


69

SOUTH-WEST FRANCE 

A LOW-KEY WINE REGION WITH A BIG 

PERSONALITY 

BY CAMILLE BERNARD 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Sandwiched between the storied vineyards of Bordeaux and the equally 

famous wine region of Languedoc, South-West France continues to be unjustly 

overlooked by the public. And yet, from the Lot Valley to the foothills of the 

Pyrenees via Gascony, this extensive wine region is home to appellations that 

most certainly deserve our attention. 

CHÂTEAU DE BUZET IS A JEWEL IN THE NAMESAKE APPELLATION’S CROWN 

LÉGENDES 



DISCOVERY 

CHÂTEAU MONTUS SPEARHEADS THE MADIRAN APPELLATION 

South-West France is a land of contrasts and diversity but it is often overshadowed 

by its illustrious neighbours, Bordeaux and Languedoc. And yet, it is home to a 

mosaic of unique vineyard sites and a raft of native grape varieties which produce 

superior quality wines across the length and breadth of the region. Here, every valley, 

every hillside and every vineyard block tells a different story, one that is rooted in centuries 

of winegrowing traditions. 

Despite the fact that they are heirs to ancient crafts, winegrowers in South-West 

France have a decidedly modern approach aimed at revealing the true identity of 

their vineyards whilst also adapting to climate issues and newly-minted consumer 

expectations. From AOC Madiran with its powerful, structured, Tannat-based wines, 

to Jurançon, the birthplace of white wines showing unique complexity, AOC Buzet 

which has pioneered sustainable winegrowing and PGI Côtes de Gascogne, renowned 

for its fresh, fruity wines spanning the colour spectrum, this feature report invites you 

to explore some of South-West France’s most treasured appellations. 

VIGNOBLES BRUMONT, CHAMPIONING AOC MADIRAN 

As appellations from South-West France go, Château Montus and Château Bouscassé 

not only epitomise the most successful rendition of the Tannat grape variety, but also 

spearhead AOC Madiran. “The appellation really changed in the 1980s when my fatherin-law 

(Ed. Alain Brumont) arrived with a vision of terroir that was as yet uncharted”, 


71


DISCOVERY 

ANTOINE VEIRY, THE OVERACHIEVING SUCCESSOR TO 

ALAIN BRUMONT 

THE BARREL CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU MONTUS 

explains Antoine Veiry who took over at the helm of 

both properties in 2018. Alain Brumont provided the 

catalyst for a redefinition of AOC Madiran based on 

an approach that focused on the quality of the soils 

and the area’s unique native varietals. “He proved that 

these long overlooked vineyard sites could produce 

extremely elegant wines showing great complexity”, 

explains Veiry. In fact, labels like Montus and La 

Tyre have become standard-bearers for the Madiran 

appellation. 

Antoine Veiry is excelling at following in the footsteps 

of Alain Brumont – aka the Pope of Madiran – and 

aims to drill down even deeper in his understanding 

of the vineyard sites that make Vignobles Brumont 

so distinctive. “Since I joined the property, we have 

vinted each vineyard block separately in order to get 

a better grasp of their unique features before blending 

them. We are also continuing to restructure the 

vineyards, building on the achievements of Alain, 

with a geologist specialising in mountain soils so 

as to identify those that are best suited to growing 

quality wines”. 

But his work doesn’t stop there. Although these prime 

vineyard sites yield stellar quality fruit, this potential 

still has to be maximised throughout the winemaking 

and maturation processes. “Our wines have 

a raw strength but our aim is to tame that to craft 

wines showing remarkable elegance and balance”, 

stresses Veiry. This quest for excellence places all 

the Brumont vineyards at the pinnacle of the South- 

West wine industry, a status that has been confirmed 

by their globally renowned single-vineyard labels 

but also by some lovely wines in the Pacherenc du 

Vic-Bilh and Côtes de Gascogne appellations that 

form a varied collection ranging from vibrant dry 

whites to elegant, complex reds. 

PLAIMONT, THE CUSTODIAN OF 

HEIRLOOM VARIETALS AND PRO- 

MOTER OF GASCON VINEYARDS 

Established in 1979 from the merger of the Plaisance, 

Aignan and Saint-Mont co-operative wineries, Plaimont 

is now a household name on the South-West 

wine scene. “Our appellations, such as Saint-Mont, 


LÉGENDES 

OLIVIER BOURDET-PEES, 

MANAGING DIRECTOR OF 

PLAIMONT AND THE CUSTODIAN 

OF INDIGENOUS GRAPE VARIETIES 

Madiran, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh and Jurançon boast differing and unique soil types but 

they share the same temperate climate with marked contrasts, yielding wines that are 

energetic and show incredible freshness”, explains Plaimont’s export director Fabien 

Olaiz. 

But let’s wind back the clocks slightly. Alongside the four appellations produced by the 

Gers co-operative there is also PGI Côtes de Gascogne, its “economic powerhouse”, 

insists Olaiz. Back in the 1970s when wines from South-West France suffered from 

their outdated image, Plaimont’s founder André Dubosc set himself the challenge 

of reinventing the Gascon wine region by producing dry white wines. His ambitions 

materialised in the form of the Colombard grape variety, which until then had been 

used to distil Armagnac. His pioneering vision continues to reap rewards: PGI Côtes de 

Gascogne is still Plaimont’s core business and its Colombelle label – the designation’s 

standard-bearer – continues to conquer wine enthusiasts around the world. 

Another source of pride for Plaimont is AOC Saint-Mont, “our real gem”, admits Olaiz. 

“It also owes a lot to André Dubosc who identified a whole slew of abandoned grape 

varieties in the century-old Sarragachies vineyards and turned them into the starting 

point for the appellation”. 

After a lengthy process of rediscovering and safeguarding heirloom grape varieties, the 

Saint-Mont vine conservation centre was born. Established in 2002, it is the largest 

private, approved conservation centre for grape varieties in France and offers the 

perfect illustration of how heirloom grape varieties were rediscovered and protected. 

“It promotes the entire region which has now become the cradle of historic grape varieties 

from the foothills of the Pyrenees”, concludes Olaiz. 


73


DISCOVERY 

DOMAINE GUILLAMAN, THE AMBASSADOR OF PGI 

CÔTES DE GASCOGNE 

In Gondrin, in the heart of Gascony, Domaine Guillaman epitomises the history of 

a family saga that dates back to the 17th century. Stéphanie and Dominique Ferret 

currently run the estate with their son already preparing to take over. “Dominique 

started at the very early age of 15 when the estate was focused on production of 

Armagnac”, recounts Stéphanie Ferret. The year 2000 marked a decisive turning 

point in its history when it transitioned from bulk to bottled sales. Since then, 

the property has thrived and now covers 200 hectares under vine in PGI Côtes de 

Gascogne, producing all three colours of wine. 

Despite this, Domaine Guillaman’s vineyards are primarily planted to white grapes 

– Colombard, Sauvignon blanc, Chardonnay, Ugni blanc, Gros Manseng and Petit 

Manseng – which make up 80% of the varietal range. Of these, Colombard – the 

flagship grape of PGI Côtes de Gascogne – holds a majority share. “It is perfectly suited 

to our terroir and defines our appellation’s identity”, explains owner Stéphanie Ferret. 

For the other colours, Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon are used to make two red 

labels and one rosé which, just like their white counterparts, are particularly representative 

of Gascony’s terroir. 

DOMAINE GUILLAMAN RECOUNTS THE STORY OF A FAMILY SAGA 



DISCOVERY 

The winery is driven by a desire to “rein in yields 

and produce clean wines with minimum impact 

on the environment” and it now ships two thirds 

of its wines overseas. It is gaining traction in 

Asian and American markets but also remains 

strong in France where its wines are sold through 

the on-trade and direct-to-consumers. 

JEAN-LOUIS LACOSTE, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE NIGRI 

DOMAINE NIGRI, THE ICONIC 

JURANÇON WINERY 

In Monein, at the foot of the Pyrenees, Domaine 

Nigri has been growing vines since 1685. 

Jean-Louis Lacoste, a trained winemaker who 

graduated from Bordeaux, joined the estate in 

1993. “My father had extensive knowledge of grape 

varieties and passed on to us his respect for this 

legacy”, recounts Lacoste. The 16-hectare vineyard 

is farmed organically and is home to a distinctive 

range of Pyrenean grape varieties. 

“At the time, when everyone was restructuring 

their vineyards, we chose to hold onto our viticultural 

heritage”, he explains. Domaine Nigri 

is therefore one of only a few wineries that 

have developed a proper collection of autochthonous 

varietals such as Camaraou, Cruchen 

noir, Printiu Aigut and Lercat. Its range of soil 

types – clay-silica, pudding stones and clay-limestone 

soils – allows it to make highly typical 

Jurançon blends. 

The winery has thus garnered an impressive reputation, 

particularly for its dry white wines which 

now account for two thirds of sales. And according 

to Jean-Louis Lacoste, the sweet wines “are 

not suffering from the waning popularity of other 

appellations because their sweetness and acidity 

are very well balanced”. Although AOC Jurançon 

requires a certain amount of education internationally, 

it continues to grow in export markets, 

which represent some 20% of the winery’s sales. 

“Our distribution is spread throughout the European 

Union and we are seeing growth in the 

American market”. Confirming its status as one 

of Jurançon’s key players and innovative wineries, 

Domaine Nigri is enjoying buoyant sales. 

DOMAINE NIGRI’S VINEYARDS ARE HOME TO A DISTINCTIVE RANGE 

OF PYRENEAN GRAPE VARIETIES 


75

VIGNERONS DE BUZET’S 

MARKETING AND 

COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR 

SÉBASTIEN BOURGUIGNON 

LES VIGNERONS DE BUZET, 

THE BEATING HEART OF AOC BUZET 

On the edge of the Landes region and the outskirts of Agen, AOC Buzet stands out for 

one particular reason: it is the virtual monopoly (95% to be precise) of the Les Vignerons 

de Buzet co-operative winery. “The name Buzet speaks to people but they don’t 

know where to place it on a map”, admits marketing and communications director 

Sébastien Bourguignon. 

Founded in 1953, even before the advent of the Buzet appellation (Ed. 1973), the Les 

Vignerons de Buzet co-operative has always been ahead of its time. By dividing its 

vineyards into 4,200 basic units, defined by their grape varieties, types of soil and 

potential, it has been able to map out an inspired strategy: it crafts wines based on 

consumer demand whilst remaining true to the appellation’s identity. 

However, the co-operative does more than just go with the flow. In 2019, it launched a 

17-hectare experimental vineyard whose role is that of an open-air laboratory aimed at 

exploring every possible solution faced with climate change. “We planted resistant Mediterranean 

grape varieties and experiment with techniques such as agro- forestry*” 

explains Bourguignon. This innovative initiative is an apt illustration of the pionee- 

* A range of farming techniques which combine trees and/or animal rearing with other crops like vines 


VIGNERONS DE BUZET HAVE 

THEIR OWN EXPERIMENTAL 

VINEYARD AND ARE ALWAYS 

ONE STEP AHEAD 

ring spirit that drives this low-key but determined appellation. Buzet may stay 

well out of the limelight of the major appellations, but its ability to take you by 

surprise is endearing. 

The acquisition of Château de Buzet in 2018 bolstered the co-operative’s wine 

tourism activities, drawing in increasing numbers of visitors keen to discover the 

hidden gem that is AOC Buzet. For seventy years now, the appellation has continually 

been an inspiration and source of surprises. 

WINES FOR ENTHUSIASTS AND CONNOISSEURS 

The vineyards of South-West France may often remain under-the-radar but the 

estates and co-operatives within the region certainly go to great lengths to promote 

their unique sites, safeguard their valuable viticultural heritage, respond to climate 

issues and adapt to the continual ebb and flow of the marketplace. 

These passionate players and custodians of their wine region invite wine enthusiasts 

to venture outside of the comfort zone of the classic appellations to discover wines 

with a unique persona that stem from time-honoured traditions and great resilience. 

By shedding light on the vinous treasure trove of South-West France, our aim is to 

encourage you to take another look at wines which you may be less familiar with but 

which certainly rank up there with their more famous neighbours. 


77

MOLDOVA, A LONG-ESTABLISHED WINE 

PRODUCER WITH A MODERN FOCUS 

BY JULIA SCAVO DIPWSET 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Moldovan wine sits at the crossroads between the Old and the New World, and 

between East and West. The vision portrayed by Wine of Moldova is modern, 

combining clean winemaking and an interesting varietal fabric ranging 

from Romanian and Caucasian grape varieties to Moldovan crossings and of 

course international cultivars. The labels may not all be easy to understand, 

but the country offers accessible pricing – its excellent value for money 

encourages consumers to indulge in some new experiences. 

WINE TOURISM ATTRACTS VISITORS LOOKING FOR PICTURESQUE SCENERY AND RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES, LIKE HERE AT CHÂTEAU PURCARI 

LÉGENDES 


MOLDOVA 

TRAVEL 

AURELIUS HAS CHOSEN TO MAKE WINES IN THE TOWN OF NISPORENI, IN THE PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION OF CODRU 

W 

hen it comes to studying market patterns and tastes, Wine of Moldova is a past master and 

uses the research to craft wines that follow a true strategy. This explains why the producers 

featured in this report say they export 95% of their wines. Moldova is also increasingly focusing 

on terroir: the ONVV and Wine of Moldova are planning to expand existing PGIs by adding new 

designations. Few competitors in the Eastern European space have this ability to adapt to each 

market they aim to conquer. 

Wine of Moldova and ONVV along with industry players such as Château Purcari are conducting 

in-depth research into varietals, particularly into Moldovan crosses – Viorica, Floricica, Alb de 

Onitcani, Codrinschi and Riton – and Rară Neagră. This latter varietal, which has been adopted 

as a flagship grape, has a stronger image than in its Romanian homeland where it is known as 

Băbească Neagră. 

Moldovan versions remain vibrant and can proudly sit alongside a Beaujolais Cru or a Gamay from 

Auvergne. Rară Neagră can also be blended with Fetească Neagră or international counterpoints. 

Fetească Neagră retains greater vibrancy than in its native Romania, showing semi-aromatic 

characters coupled with good finesse. It also meshes well with other varietals in blends. International 

grape varieties invariably generate demand in price brackets significantly lower than for 

their prestigious West European or New World models. They illustrate Moldova’s potential for 

producing styles that offer a good rendition of their varietals. 

Sparkling wines are fashionable and all the producers we spoke to either produce some or plan 

to. Wine of Moldova encourages this vision because the wines are a profitable source of exports. 

Though few and far between, ice wines are often nicely crafted and intriguing. Fortified wines 

deserve attention because this year they witnessed the most surprising surge in export volumes, 

and values. When it comes to USP, the Viorica varietal leads the way and makes a compelling case 

for Moldova to promote it in the way Argentina has Torrontes. 


79

MOLDOVA 

TRAVEL 

Consumers are looking for new flavours and Moldova 

is still considered as an exotic destination for wine. 

With the ability to produce significant volumes 

of reasonably priced wine from international and 

Romanian cultivars, Moldova will undoubtedly 

recruit new markets at a time when the cost of living 

crisis is forcing people to rein in their spending. 

IN JUST 30 SECONDS, SOMMELIER DANIEL FRUMUSACHE OPENED 49 BOTTLES 

OF APRIORI SPARKLING WINE USING THE ‘SABRAGE’ METHOD, EARNING HIM A 

PLACE IN THE GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS 

APRIORI WINERY, CAPTURING 

THE ZEITGEIST WITH A FRESH 

IDENTITY 

IN 2019, APRIORI WINE HOSTED THEIR FIRST ECO WINE MARATHON WHERE 

THE GRAPES WERE PICKED USING ELECTRIC CARS 

Apriori Winery is a newcomer in the Codrii Tigheciului 

area – an unspoilt nature reserve located in the 

Cantemir and Taraclia regions in southern Moldova. 

The winery is on a constant quest to promote a 

youthful image as evidenced by its lifestyle-centric 

marketing strategy promoting discovery and also 

its deep-rooted environmental values. In 2019, it 

therefore launched the Eco Wine Marathon where 

the entire crop is transported in electric vehicles. 

The winery has also secured a listing in the Guinness 

Book of Records along with young Moldovan sommelier 

Daniel Frumasachi, now based in Copenhagen. 

Frumasachi successfully ‘sabered’ 49 bottles 

of Apriori sparkling wine in 30 seconds. The winery 

is also pioneering alternative packaging by marketing 

its Charmat method sparkling wine in cans, along 

with a range of three still wines, as part of its environmentally-friendly 

protocol. Apriori produces ‘Divin’ 

brandy and traditional Rachiu from plums, whilst 

its yellow melon-based Rachiu strays off the welltrodden 

path. In the wine space, it also distils Rachiu 

from Sauvignon blanc and Chardonnay. 

CHÂTEAU PURCARI, 

THE MOST AWARDED PRODUCER 

IN EASTERN AND CENTRAL 

EUROPE 

Founded in 1827, Château Purcari boasts an impressive 

collection of accolades, making it unique in 

Central and Eastern Europe. Its efforts to become 

Moldova’s most prestigious wine exporter with a 


LÉGENDES 

PURCARI WINERY WAS AWARDED THE GRAND PRIX FOR WINE 

PRODUCTION BY THE GOVERNMENT OF THE REPUBLIC OF 

MOLDOVA 

MEMBERS OF THE PRODUCTION TEAM AT CHATEAU PURCARI 

WINE TOURISM AT CHÂTEAU PURCARI 

presence in over 25 markets have allowed it to follow in the footsteps of its predecessors who 

won the first gold medal at the Paris World’s Fair in 1878. 

The founder and current managing director of the Purcari Wineries Group, Victor Bostan, can 

rely on the advice of winemaker Federico Giotto and the expertise of research and development 

director Gheorghe Arpentin – the former chairman of the ONVV – to craft wines that 

encapsulate the grape varieties and the company’s brand image. All the wines are marketed 

under the Stefan Vodă PGI, a high-prestige area in the South of the country where the climate 

is continental, moderate, dry and cool with the influence of the Black Sea and the river Nistru. 

The carbonated chernozem* lies over a mosaic of 25 soil profiles with emergences of tertiary 

reddish deposits rich in trace elements defining them geologically. The winery is currently 

establishing connections between the quality of the wines and this geological treasure trove by 

drilling down and mapping the soil types – over the next three years it will reveal its individual 

vineyard sites. By continuing its innovation and research, Château Purcari is developing an 

extensive programme of clonal selection and conservation – Rară Neagră 2.0. In addition to the 

varietal – which is highly valued at Purcari – the vineyards are planted to the following varieties: 

Merlot, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Saperavi, Aligoté, 

Gewürztraminer, Malbec, Fetească Neagră, Fetească Albă, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Viorica, Syrah, 

Fetească Regală and Carmenère. The vineyard covers a total 300 hectares with vine age averaging 

at 15 years old – the oldest plantings date back to 2004. The varietal range is split in the classic 

way for the PGI Stefan Vodă, a region renowned for its red wines (70%) with a balance of whites. 

Château Purcari has also proven that it excels in the production of international varietals. 

*A typical soil in the cold, dry, continental steppes of Eastern Europe characterised by organic matter deeply 

embedded in the mineral soil. 


81

MOLDOVA 

TRAVEL 

The company is a keen practitioner of innovation 

for its sparkling, orange and ice wines, but also for 

its more conventional ranges. It has also released a 

new range of wines – Native – which will become 

organic in 2025. Its Freedom Blend, launched in 2011 

as a tribute to the independence of the Republic of 

Moldova, Ukraine and Georgia, has garnered widespread 

appeal for its fleshy, velvety style imbued with 

spicy black fruit and coffee. Wines in the Purcari 1827 

range – like the Romanian varietal Fetească Neagră 

– continue to be faithful renditions of their grape 

varieties, whilst the Nocturne series is designed for 

lovers of vibrant aromatics. 

VARTELY, TWENTY YEARS’ 

SUPPORT FOR MOLDOVAN WINE 

THE NAME VARTELY STEMS FROM THE NAME OF THE TOWN ORHEI WHICH IN HUNGARIAN 

MEANS ‘PLACE OF THE FORTRESS’ (VÁR + HELY OR FORTRESS + PLACE) 

VARTELY’S ANNUAL PRODUCTION IS IN THE RANGE OF 4.5 MILLION BOTTLES OF WINE 

Although some wines under this brand were first 

launched in 1996, Château Vartely Winery was 

founded in 2004. It was one of the first companies 

to market wines with a protected geographical indication. 

The winery is located in Orhei, 50 kilometres 

from the capital city, near the largest and most significant 

nature reserve in the country. Over the past five 

years, it has doubled its share of quality wines, consolidating 

its position in the domestic market and in 

over 25 countries around the world. Château Vartely 

boasts 520 hectares in total, including 150 situated 

in the central part of the country, PGI Codru and 30 

hectares in the southern region of Bugeac, in PGI 

Valul lui Traian. 

In 2023, Château Vartely was honoured by the 

State with the highest award for winery of the year, 

adding to its impressive 350 medals garnered over 

the years. Its success can be ascribed to its head 

winemaker Valentin Vrânceanu and his teams. They 

work with a richly woven fabric of grape varieties 

planted on classic leached chernozem soils: Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, 

Rară Neagră, Fetească Neagră, Syrah, Malbec, Saperavi, 

Traminer rosé, Muscat de Hambourg, Muscat 

Ottonel, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Fetească 

Regală and Sauvignon Blanc. The wines are made 

in a cutting-edge, temperature-controlled winery 


MORAR AUREL, 

THE FOUNDER OF AURELIUS, 

IN HIS VINEYARDS 

housing an impressive collection of 470 barrels and facilities for making Charmat 

and traditional method sparkling wines. Château Vartely’s winery is already part of 

the ‘Sustainable Wine of Moldova’ pilot project conducted by the ONVV. Its financial 

investments will further contribute to promoting the principles of sustainable winegrowing 

– the ultimate goal is to certify wines shipped to the Union European market 

as sustainable. 

AURELIUS WINERY, IN THE NAME OF THE FOUNDER 

Despite its young age – it was founded in 2019 – this winery has rapidly achieved 

benchmark status thanks to its successful track record in international markets and 

the medals it has garnered. Its name refers to that of its founder and owner, Morar 

Aurel. The estate is located in the Codru area of Nisporeni, Moldova’s central PGI which 

accounts for 60% of its vineyards. The name Codru alludes to the local oak and linden 

forests which create a microclimate in an area criss-crossed by valleys and small rivers. 

Here, the soil is more aerated than chernozem and ranges from clay to silt with higher 

drainage capacity. Aurelius Winery produces both still and sparkling wines. Vineyard 

management focuses on sustainability and ecology, with synthetic weedkillers and 

fertilisers outlawed. Individual vineyards form the basis, with each grape variety suited 

to a particular block and care taken to reflect the style of the GI and its microclimates, 

along with varietal definition. The barrels come from France. Aurelius Chardonnay 

is an ample, textured, rich wine, whilst the 2018 Cabernet-Sauvignon is still very 

youthful with its structured, chewy feel providing grip. The 2021 Fetească Neagră deli- 


83

DUMI BALAN, THE EXPORT AND BRAND MANAGER AT PODGORIA VIN, 

DRIVES INNOVATION, SUSTAINABILITY AND MODERNITY WHICH ARE 

CRUCIAL TO THE SPIRIT OF PODGORIA WINES 

FETEASCĂ NEAGRĂ, GROWING HERE AT PODGORIA VIN IN 

THE VALUL LUI TRAIAN REGION, RETAINS GREATER VIBRANCY 

THAN IN ITS NATIVE ROMANIA 

vers perfumes of liquorice, black fruit, coffee and vanilla in a rich, concentrated, spicy 

style. The 2023 Muscat Alb Dulce is a sweet sparkling wine melding peach and musky 

aromatics with an almost meringue-like texture. Its 2023 Rosé Dulce counterpart is 

charmingly floral, fruity and fragrant. 

PODGORIA VIN, RESPECT FOR THE PAST BUT WITHOUT 

THE ARCHAIC LANGUAGE 

Podgoria VIN was built on the foundations of a large winery dating back to the communist 

era in 1977. The family-run business took shape in 1999 to take over privatisation. 

It released its first vintage in 2003 in its new premises. It wouldn’t be long before the 

first medals were won, in 2007. Located in the GI Valul lui Traian area, the present-day 

estate boasts 450 hectares under vine and remains a family-owned company belonging 

to the Balan family. The region’s moderate continental climate ensures that winters 

remain mild and frost-free but also creates a contrast with the heat of the summer. 

Around fifteen grape varieties thrive on the famous chernozem soils: Cabernet- Sauvignon, 

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Fetească Neagră, Fetească Albă, Fetească Regală, 

Floricica, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Saperavi, Alibernet, Carmenère, Kerner, Viorica, 

Aligoté and Muscat. The vineyards are farmed sustainably with regard to waste water 


TASTING WINES AT THE 

APRIORI WINERY 

HARVESTING GRAPES AT 

CHÂTEAU PURCARI 

AROUND THE TURN OF THE 

CENTURY, CHÂTEAU PURCARI 

REPLANTED 250 HECTARES 

OF VINEYARDS 


85

MOLDOVA 

TRAVEL 

STEFAN VODA, THE LOCATION FOR SĂLCUTA’S VINEYARDS, OFFERS 

IDEAL CONDITIONS FOR RIPENING GRAPES, WITH ITS UNIQUE SOIL 

COMPOSITION, SOUTH AND EAST ASPECTS AND ITS PROXIMITY TO 

THE BLACK SEA 

usage and general waste. The winery also promotes 

local wildlife and shows concern for biodiversity. The 

ranges of wine are called Libera, Genesis, Blossom 

and Aborigi, the latter of which recalls the connections 

with the native area and its forebears. The same 

ethos guides the choice of grape varieties from the 

Romanian world, either as single varietals, in blends 

or with international grape varieties. This is often 

customary in Moldova due to its proven potential 

with these cultivars. The 2023 Aborigi Fetească Albă 

- Fetească Regală is fruity, exotic and spicy with stony 

undertones whilst remaining fleshy, vibrant and 

balanced. The fusion of local roots and modernity 

is exemplified by the choice of screwcaps. Blossom 

is also a single varietal made from the local grape 

Viorica. It is intense, perfumed and heady with its 

balsamic floral aromatics midway between herbs, 

shiso, fresh grapes and musky aromas. Libera 

expresses a sense of freedom, the desire to cross 

borders with international grape varieties. Here, 

Sauvignon blanc displays an archetypal New World 

style with its herbaceous aromatics and clean, crisp 

palate offering instant gratification. 

SĂLCUTA, AN ODYSSEY 

IN SEARCH OF THE FINEST 

MOLDOVAN WINE 

SĂLCUA WINERY IS LOCATED IN THE CĂUȘENI DISTRICT IN 

SOUTH-EASTERN MOLDOVA, ALSO KNOWN AS “THE HEART OF 

MOLDOVAN WINES” 

Despite its low-key status on the Moldovan wine 

scene, Sălcuta boasts an impressive history and 

newly-minted credentials. The achievement is made 

all the more remarkable by the scale of this familyowned 

property which now covers 450 hectares and 

produces around 10 million bottles a year. This substantial, 

unbroken estate is situated in the PGI Stefan 

Vodă area where the Black Sea and the river Nistru 

contribute to the mild climate. A 70-km or 1.15-hour 

journey from the capital Chişinău takes you to the 

Pâslaru family’s home. They will tell you that winegrowing 

started here in around 1706, in a village 

known for its willow trees, hence the Romanian 

name Sălcuta. The village’s winery would not start 

to make a name for itself though until 1950, when it 

welcomed local winegrowers and their grapes. The 

present-day story began in 1995 and was one of the 


LÉGENDES 

SERGIU PISLARU, WHO INHERITED 

THE PASSION AND AMBITION 

OF HIS FATHER, HAS IMPLEMENTED 

A PROCESS OF MODERNISATION 

AT SĂLCUTA 

first to be written in the Republic of Moldova. Eugen Pâslaru focused wholeheartedly 

on his passion for vines and wine before passing on his ethos to his son Sergiu. The 

third generation – Dina and Titus – is beginning to immerse itself in the family’s 

love of winegrowing, joining Sergiu and his wife Cornelia. Sergiu was responsible for 

modernising the vineyards and production facilities. He also led the winery towards 

sustainable farming in a bid to become 100% sustainable and socially responsible. The 

winery was certified ISO 22000 and BRC in 2019 for its overall food safety standards, 

which has opened many doors in export markets. The 15-strong varietal range features 

both international grapes - Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, 

Merlot and Cabernet- Sauvignon – and the Romanian cultivars Fetească Albă, Fetească 

Regală, Fetească Neagră and Rară Neagră. There are also successful local varieties like 

the perfumed Viorica grape. The grapes with a ‘local flavour’ enhance recognition in 

international markets. The winery’s iconic ranges are Epizod, AlterNative and ENO, 

whose names always hide a message from Eugen. He has been searching for his Holy 

Grail since an early age, like an odyssey, and his mindset focuses on mirroring local 

traditions and a form of spirituality – in other words, the finest Moldova’s wines have 

to offer. Among its flagship range, the Sauvignon Blanc Fumé is ever-popular with 

Moldovan consumers. The 2018 Eno Eclectic Red stands out for its spicy black fruit and 

sense of fulfilment. This is an ample, fleshy wine with the sheen of maturity yet still a 

kind of continuing freshness. 


87

ARGENTINA, WHERE VARIETY COMES 

SECOND NATURE 

BY MAURICIO LLAVER 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Argentine wines are not only made from very diverse varietals grown over a 

wide range of vineyard sites and altitudes, they are inspired by projects that 

differ greatly in size and origin. Kaiken, Cabrini, Les Amis and Andeluna are 

examples of the country’s multi-faceted approach to growing wine. 

KAIKEN WAS CREATED IN 2001 AND IS LOCATED IN VISTALBA, LUJÁN DE CUYO, MENDOZA 

LÉGENDES 


ARGENTINA 

DISCOVERY 

KAIKEN IS THE ARGENTINE PROJECT OF AURELIO MONTES WHO PIONEERED PRODUCTION OF PREMIUM WINES IN CHILE 

The diversity of Argentine wines, the origins of their makers and the size 

of their ventures may surprise consumers in other parts of the world. 

But Argentina is home to an industry that ranges from multi-generation 

family projects to young winemakers inspired by small producers around 

the world, wineries whose owners have achieved worldwide fame in countries 

such as Chile and wines grown at the foot of the Andes Mountains. 

KAIKEN, ARGENTINE WINES BY A CHILEAN LEGEND 

Although he has achieved cult status for Chilean and South American wine, 

Aurelio Montes decided in 2001 that his Kaiken winery would be located 

in Mendoza, Argentina. Montes was familiar with wild Patagonian geese, 

which fly over the Andes mountain range separating Argentina and Chile, 

and they inspired the name for his venture. The bird symbolises “the crossing 

of borders”, according to Kaiken. Drawing on his extensive experience 

at Montes Winery in Chile, which he founded, Montes began to travel 

around Argentina in 2000, until he decided to locate his Argentine project 

in the district of Vistalba, Luján de Cuyo. Kaiken has 20 hectares of its own 

vineyards there, complemented by 64 hectares in Agrelo (also in Luján 

de Cuyo) and 35.4 hectares in Los Chacayes, in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. The 

varietals grown are Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, 

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Petit Verdot. 


89

ARGENTINA 

DISCOVERY 

GUSTAVO HORMANN, MANAGER AND WINEMAKER AT KAIKEN 

RAMOS GENERALES IS KAIKEN’S OUTDOOR RESTAURANT 

From the outset, one of Kaiken’s priorities was to 

achieve a broad-ranging global presence through 

a very dynamic export policy including attendance 

at major international exhibitions. This is 

reflected in sales figures that are clearly fuelled by 

exports, with 95% of production shipped overseas. 

Kaiken is present in almost 70 countries, and its 

main markets are the United Kingdom, Japan, 

Germany, the United States, Canada, the Netherlands, 

Finland, the United Arab Emirates, Brazil 

and Russia. 

Gustavo Hormann, the manager and winemaker at 

Kaiken, defines the project: “At Kaiken we are dedicated 

to creating exceptional wines that reflect our 

passion for excellence and Argentina’s tradition 

of winemaking. Our collection combines quality 

and variety, with a focus on sustainable practices 

that respect the natural environment. Each bottle 

captures the unique essence of our terroir, offering 

an authentic and expressive experience for wine 

lovers”. 

Kaiken’s project features an ‘open-air restaurant’, 

called ‘Ramos Generales’, which revolves around an 

open-fire-cooking-style kitchen set in the winery’s 

meadow next to the vineyards. It is run by Francis 

Mallmann, Argentina’s most famous chef – he is 

the only one to have his own episode in Netflix’s 

‘Chef’s Table’ series. Kaiken also offers a wine 

tourism experience, with tours of the vineyards, 

tastings and a visit to its ‘Cava del Angel’, where 

the wines mature. 

The most emblematic brands are Ultra, stemming 

from the Latin for ‘beyond’, and Mai, a wine that 

seeks to convey the alliance between Argentina 

and Chile at the root of the project - it is made 

from grapes grown in a vineyard planted in 1910. 

Kaiken also produces a line of sparkling wines 

featuring a Brut and a Brut Rosé, with Pinot Noir 

and Chardonnay grapes from the Uco Valley. It 

also produces a special wine from grapes grown 

in Canota, Las Heras – an experimental terroir 

for Argentine wines. Labelled ‘Nude’, it is a rosé 

blended from 90% Grenache and 10% Cabernet 

Sauvignon. 

A cursory glance at the winery’s main ranges offers 

an idea of the diversity of its wines: Estate (Sauvi- 


GUSTAVO HORMANN: 

“OUR COLLECTION 

COMBINES QUALITY AND 

VARIETY, WITH A FOCUS ON 

SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES” 


91

FERNANDO, MAURICIO 

AND HUGO CABRINI 

gnon Blanc-Semillon, Chardonnay, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon); Indómito 

(Chardonnay, Malbec, Cabernet Franc); Terroir Series (Malbec-Bonarda-Petit 

Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec, and Petit Verdot); Ultra (Chardonnay, Pinot 

Noir, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot); Aventura (Los 

Chacayes Norte Malbec, Los Chacayes Sur Malbec and Valle de Canota Malbec), 

Disobedience (a red blend made by Aurelio Montes and Francis Mallmann), and 

Obertura, a Cabernet Franc. 

CABRINI, MALBEC AND ‘LIQUOROSO’ SPANNING 

5 GENERATIONS 

Malbec is the pride and joy of the Cabrini family. One of the reasons is because 

the winery is located in Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo, in the heart of Malbec’s original 

homeland in Argentina. But another reason is because the family owns a vineyard 

dating back to 1911 which increasingly provides grapes of higher concentration 

and quality. The Cabrinis have not only pioneered Malbec since their winery was 

founded, they can also boast five generations at the company’s helm, which is 

unusual for a relatively young country like Argentina. 

Remarkably, they have managed to maintain all of their Malbec vineyards since 

the outset, refusing to destroy them during the great crisis of the 1980s in the 

Argentine wine industry, despite the high economic cost of doing so. As winery 

manager Fernando Cabrini comments, “We always knew it was a varietal of the 

highest quality, but at that time it was not recognised as the great Argentine 

wine it is today”. 


ARGENTINA 

DISCOVERY 

Cabrini recalls how “Our winery was built in 1918 by our great-grandfather, 

Leandro Cabrini. Originally it was a collection of ‘piletas’ or pools, with buildings 

that emerged over time. Its location was strategic for two reasons: firstly 

because of the Malbec vineyard, planted in 1911, and secondly because it was 

located next to the railroad station, which was used to ship wine across the 

entire country and was the most efficient means of transportation at the time”. 

The original Perdriel vineyard covers 6 hectares, complemented by another 

8 hectares in Ugarteche, Luján de Cuyo (Malbec, Syrah, Tempranillo and 

Chenin), and 36 hectares in Tupungato, Uco Valley. “The Uco Valley vineyard 

dates back to 1957, when there were very few vineyards in that area and they did 

not have the recognition they have nowadays”, stresses Cabrini. “It was chosen 

by our grandparents because of the quality of its soil and water, and we have 

Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Tempranillo planted there”. 

A reflection of the value that the family places on tradition is that all its 

labels bear the name ‘Cabrini’. Some, with more than 70 years of presence 

in the market, have been revamped in recent times. In terms of sales, the 

ratio between the domestic and export markets varies according to economic 

conditions, which are traditionally unstable in Argentina. Generally speaking, 

though, 75% of sales are in the domestic market with a balance of exports. The 

company’s main international markets are the United States and the United 

Kingdom, although it also has a presence in other continental European countries 

and Vietnam. The Cabrini family also makes a special ‘Licoroso’ wine, 

which the Catholic Church uses for mass throughout Argentina. It is a fortified 

sweet rosé wine blended from Malbec, Tempranillo, Bonarda and Lambrusco 

with an ABV of 16.5 % and between 80 and 100 grams of residual sugar. It has 

had a permit from the Archbishopric of Mendoza since 1987, and Pope John 

Paul II used it in the Jubilee Mass in 2000 at the Vatican. 

THE FIRST AND SECOND GENERATION OF 

THE CABRINI FAMILY, WHO PLANTED THEIR 

FIRST VINEYARD IN 1911 


93

MARTÍN BILBAO, THE 

CREATOR OF LES AMIS 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

94

ARGENTINA 

DISCOVERY 

LES AMIS, A SMALL PROJECT 

WITH FRENCH INSPIRATION 

THE ‘LES AMIS’ PROJECT IS INSPIRED BY FRANCE’S 

SMALL INDEPENDENT WINEGROWERS 

Martín Bilbao’s young age belies his extensive 

experience in the vineyards of France, prompting 

him to create ‘Les Amis’. The project was “inspired 

by the small independent French winegrowers, 

who with a lot of passion and dedication cultivate 

their vines in order to turn them into high quality 

wines”. To date, Les Amis is the only label he has 

released commercially, and its name is French 

“because since I began winemaking, I have had 

a connection with France, a country where the 

passion for wine is ubiquitous”. 

Bilbao’s plan is to make classic wines that showcase 

the potential of Mendoza’s old vines to 

produce quality wines, primarily in what is known 

as the First Viticultural Zone. He thus leases two 

small vineyards covering one hectare each, located 

in Russell (Maipú) and Carrodilla (Luján de Cuyo). 

“Technically, the project started in 2021 with the 

first harvest of Les Amis”, recalls Bilbao. “But the 

desire to make the project a reality came some 

time ago, after having travelled and worked in 

different wine regions of France, including the 

Rhone Valley, Champagne, Chablis and Bordeaux. 

After meeting different independent winegrowers 

I was highly motivated to replicate this model in 

Argentina”. 

Les Amis makes a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and 

is about to bottle its 2023 Malbec from Luján de 

Cuyo. The philosophy for both is the same: old 

vineyards with low yields, ensuring concentrated 

wines with great typicity. Currently the wines are 

only sold in the Argentine market, but one of the 

objectives is to export to Brazil, due to its proximity 

and demand for this style of wine. Bilbao’s 

commitment to terroir is tangible: “I come from 

a small town in Mendoza where my ancestors 

settled many years ago. They were dedicated 

farmers, growing vegetables, fruit trees, olive 

groves and of course grapevines. I have strong 

roots in this land. Among my fondest childhood 

memories are the times spent with my 

grandparents during the harvest in the family 

vineyard which produced the house wine”. 


95

ARGENTINA 

DISCOVERY 

Bilbao adds: “In my lifetime I have been fortunate 

to have great friends, who have shared their 

customs and passions with me. Coincidentally, 

one of them introduced me to the world of wine, 

and from that moment on, it opened up a whole 

host of experiences for me that changed the 

course of my life”. Commenting on the name 

of his venture, he says “One day I decided to 

start my own personal project as a tribute to the 

friendship that opened the doors to wine for me 

and led me to meet new friends. Each bottle is 

made with their unconditional support and 

designed to be shared among friends, because 

they are the reason for this adventure”. 

ANDELUNA, AT THE FOOT OF THE ANDES MOUNTAIN RANGE 

THE ANDELUNA WINERY LODGE OFFERS ACCOMMODATION SURROUNDED BY VINEYARDS 

ANDELUNA, UNDER 

THE INFLUENCE OF THE ANDES 

In Spanish ‘Andeluna’ symbolises the fusion of 

Andes and the moon, depicting the location of 

the vineyards at the foot of the mountains and 

“the moon that covers them with its light”. The 

moon may be universal, but the Andes Mountains 

– whose formation ended some five million years 

ago – provide a geographical element that strongly 

influences the wines. Here, the soils are “stony 

with vines struggling to put down roots. There is 

also limestone which yields wines showing great 

personality”, stresses Marcelo Burgos, the winery’s 

general manager. 

The winery was built in 2005 and came under the 

ownership of the Barale family in 2011. Their goal 

is to produce wines using sustainable practices. 

The family owns 80 hectares of vineyards in Gualtallary, 

Tupungato, an increasingly renowned 

area located 1,300 metres above sea level. The 

site is characterised by its altitude, diurnal shift, 

brightness, stony and alluvial soils, excellent 

drainage and scarce rainfall which guarantees 

healthy fruit. 

The Gualtallary vineyard is certified 100% organic, 

precluding the use of chemical fertilisers, pesticides, 

fungicides and herbicides, as well as any 

inputs of animal origin. The certification means 

that Andeluna’s wines are 100% suitable for vegans, 


MANUEL GONZÁLEZ BALS, THE HEAD WINEMAKER AT ANDELUNA: 

“THE UCO VALLEY IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPRESSIVE PLACES 

IN THE WORLD FOR GROWING VINES” 

THE BARALE FAMILY MAKES THEIR WINES SUSTAINABLY 

thus catering to increased demand in a number of markets. The winery exports 

60% of its wines to more than 30 countries and its main markets are the United 

States, the United Kingdom, Brazil, Canada, the Netherlands, South Korea and 

Germany. 

According to head winemaker Manuel González Bals the Uco Valley “is one of the 

most impressive places in the world to grow vines”. His challenge is “to reveal the 

typicality of the location through sustainable vineyard management techniques”. 

Among other things, Andeluna uses drip irrigation and wastewater treatment, it 

markets vegan wines, encourages internship programs, flexible maternity leave 

and on-going staff training. 

Its main brands are Raíces, 1,300, Altitud, Pasionado, Emblema and Los Francs de 

Andeluna. Its varietals include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Torrontés, Malbec, 

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Pinot Noir. The winery has a 

capacity of nearly 1.5 million litres stored in stainless steel tanks, an underground 

cellar with 1,000 oak barrels and a storage capacity of nearly 1 million bottles. 

General manager Marcelo Burgos stresses that Andeluna was selected by the 2023 

Luxury Lifestyle Awards for the Top 100 Premium Wine & Spirits Brands in the 

World, “in recognition of the quality, craftsmanship and dedication with which it 

has produced its wines over its 20-year history”. Another of the winery’s distinctive 

features is its hospitality area, which offers a 360° experience with tours, tastings, 

recreational activities and cooking classes. It also owns the Andeluna Winery 

Lodge surrounded by vineyards. 


97

TERRAS & TERROIR, 

THE TASTE OF PORTUGAL 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF TERRAS & TERROIR 

In less than two decades, Terras & Terroir, which has a presence in five 

regions, has become a formidable standard-bearer for Portuguese viticultural 

heritage. As a staunch advocate of the variety and quality of the country’s 

wine proposition, the company continues to aim for a very specific goal, 

which is to show the world that Portugal is the home of excellent wines. And if 

the country’s bottlings are increasingly gaining exposure, it might just have 

something to do with that… 

MARIA DO CÉU GONÇALVES, PAULO PEREIRA AND ÁLVARO LOPES, THE THREE PARTNERS AT TERRAS & TERROIR 

LÉGENDES 


PORTUGAL 

FOCUS 

RIBAFREIXO WINE BOASTS 114 HECTARES UNDER VINE IN ALENTEJO, THE FAMOUS PORTUGUESE WINE REGION 

The story began in 1999, not with a winery but with a distribution company. 

Agribéria was founded in France by two Portuguese entrepreneurs, Maria 

do Céu Gonçalves and Paulo Pereira, who were already aware of the potential of 

products from their home country. In 2012, they were given the opportunity to 

invest in an iconic winery in the Douro region – Quinta da Pacheca – before taking 

on full ownership the following year. 2013 was also the year Álvaro Lopes joined 

them as the company’s third partner. Since then the firm has continually expanded 

and their focus on producing quality wines has developed considerably. 

The group now has a presence in five Portuguese wine regions – Douro, Dão, Bairrada, 

Alentejo and Trás-os-Montes – and it does not intend to stop there. It already 

has the Vinhos Verdes and Algarve regions in its sights. In just a few years, the 

three inspired partners have built up nothing short of an empire which boasts 

over 200 employees in Portugal, 300 hectares under vine and production totalling 

millions of bottles. At Pacheca alone, around 1.7 million bottles are sold, compared 

with just 80,000 when the three entrepreneurs arrived. Revenue is in excess of 

20 million euros. Growth across-the-board has always gone hand in hand with 

“a desire de promote the finest that Portugal’s wine regions can offer”, explains 

Susana Marinho, the company’s head of communications. 

FOCUSING ON QUALITY 

The aim is not to mass produce wine but to craft excellent pours that encapsulate 

the unique characters of their homeland. “Our ethos is simple – to show respect 


99

THE NEW WINERY AT QUINTA 

DA PACHECA 

FROM THE VINEYARDS TO THE 

WINERY WHICH IS FITTED WITH 

THE LATEST EQUIPMENT, QUALITY 

IS THE NORM WITHIN THE GROUP 

for and honour terroir by producing wines that reflect the essence of the land, the 

climate and local traditions. Each of our properties uses sustainable winegrowing 

techniques with a commitment to the environment and biodiversity. We want 

our wines to tell the story of the soil where they are grown, whilst preserving the 

authenticity of native Portuguese varieties”. 

Every wine in the Terras & Terroir portfolio – from the dark-hued Port to the 

Bairrada sparkling wines the company has pioneered, elegant Dão whites and 

Alentejo reds – is made primarily from endemic varieties. For Douro wines, this 

means Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, 

Viosinho, Gouveio, Cerceal and Moscatel Galego, and for their Dão counterparts, 

Encruzado and Alfrocheiro. Portugal is home to an incredible varietal treasure 

trove, with over 250 autochthonous cultivars and the group has made it its mission 

to showcase them. 

This is indeed Terras & Terroir’s overriding objective: to reveal the excellence of 

Portuguese wines and move them upmarket. Although Portuguese wines are often 

sold at prices lower than their quality should command, the group refuses to follow 

this tack. From the care taken at every stage of production and the diligence of 


PORTUGAL 

FOCUS 

the staff to the choice of sustainable farming methods, all of this has a price and 

that cannot be sold at a discount. In fact, very few of the company’s wines sell for 

under 10 euros. 

USING WINE TOURISM AS A POWERFUL SPRINGBOARD 

Following the arrival of hospitality expert Álvaro Lopes, the company set its sights 

on wine tourism. The decision proved to be spot on, offering Portuguese wines 

the chance to secure much-needed recognition. “Wine tourism is a powerful way 

of promoting our wines”, admits Marinho. “It not only offers an immersive and 

educational experience, it also allows us to create an emotional connection with 

visitors who often become our brand ambassadors in their home countries. By 

providing unique occasions, we can create a point of difference which helps us 

stand out in the very competitive global market”. 

Over the years, the group has therefore expanded its wine tourism solutions significantly, 

investing in many establishments where tourism and viticulture join 

HERDADE DA ROCHA IS LOCATED IN CRATO, PORTALEGRE 


101

VILA MARIM COUNTRY HOUSES, 

IN THE HEART OF THE DOURO 

WINE REGION 

BARRELS CONVERTED INTO 

ACCOMMODATION AT QUINTA 

DA PACHECA 

seamlessly to promote the premium image of Portuguese wines. Its latest acquisition is 

the Douro Wine Hotel & Spa, an amazing 5-star hotel surrounded by vineyards in the storied 

wine region. For those looking for unique experiences, they can go take a look at Quinta da 

Pacheca’s former barrels that have been converted into welcoming accommodation for the 

winery’s visitors. 

A ROBUST DISTRIBUTION NETWORK 

The group currently exports around 35% of its wines, and counting, comments Marinho. 

The metrics offer undeniable proof of the successful strategic choices executed by the group 

which, despite its growth, has retained its family spirit. In addition to its wine tourism 

offerings, it boasts a well-structured, consolidated distribution network, both domestically 

and overseas. Clearly, its initial experience with distribution has reaped rewards. 

The company has also successfully leveraged changes in consumer trends, both in export 

markets and nationwide. “There is growing awareness among consumers of responsible 

consumption patterns, along with increased interest in better quality wines”. And when 

demand aligns with a company’s objectives, success is the only possible outcome… 


TENDERVINO, THE ITALIAN COMPANY 

WITH THE TENDER TOUCH 

BY ELLEN BUDGE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF TENDERVINO 

The State and provincial monopolies, located primarily in North America 

and Scandinavia, are among the largest wine buyers in the world. Their 

seemingly arcane purchasing procedures often act as a deterrent, particularly 

for smaller producers. One Italian company, however, is providing muchneeded 

support for wineries keen to cast their geographical distribution net 

farther field and venture into new marketing territory. 

ALESSANDRO SATIN, FOUNDER AND OWNER OF TENDERVINO, HAS EXTENSIVE EXPERIENCE IN THE BEVERAGE ALCOHOL MARKET IN A NUMBER OF 

COUNTRIES AROUND THE WORLD 

AUTUMN 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 103

ALESSANDRO SATIN PROVIDES 

COMPANIES LOOKING TO CAST 

THEIR MARKETING NET FARTHER 

AFIELD WITH HIS LONG-STANDING 

MARKETING EXPERTISE 

That aptly-named company is Tendervino, a nod to the support it provides for wineries aiming to 

access the monopoly markets through their tender procedures. Although the company was founded 

just under three years ago, it benefits from decades of industry experience. Its founder and owner, 

Alessandro Satin, has worked on both sides of the industry in various parts of the world, including 

Asia. “When I moved back to Italy in 2017”, says the Tuscany-based export specialist, “I discovered that 

a lot of Italian producers were not able to understand the monopoly markets and therefore seize the 

opportunities they offered”. The company takes a two-pronged approach in its mission: it helps producers 

navigate the tender process required for accessing the monopoly markets whilst also providing 

valuable information for agents and importers so that they can understand the fragmented supply 

side, primarily in Italy but also in a range of producer countries. 

CRUCIAL HIGH-LEVEL ENDORSEMENT 

Ultimately, it’s not just the smaller wineries that approach Tendervino: “We have found over time 

that larger companies also struggle to find the right partners in the monopoly markets. They 

may be strong in Canada but cannot find the right channels in Norway or Sweden for example”. 

Since founding his company, Satin has received a significant boost – he has been appointed as 

the ambassador for Canada and Scandinavia by the 1992-established Merano Wine Festival. “This 

helps me to connect with high-level producers and gain exposure for our young company” Satin 

says of the endorsement. Securing visibility among the myriad artisan producers across Italy is a 

critical boost to the business because ultimately its added value stems from introducing the monopoly 

buyers to differentiated wines in a highly competitive marketplace. “The standard tenders 

are normally for supermarket-type wines, meaning large volumes where the lower the prices 

the better. But not all tenders are for large volumes and very low prices. All the monopolies have 

different sections with differing needs – the speciality sections are where they establish their 

reputations and are not looking for low prices”. 

HOW THE MONOPOLIES DIFFER 

Although there are similarities between the monopolies – which are increasingly working together 

on issues like sustainability – there are also sizeable differences. “Firstly, in Canada the 


ALESSANDRO SATIN WITH 

HELMUT KÖCHER, THE PRESIDENT 

AND FOUNDER OF THE MERANO 

WINE FESTIVAL 


105

ITALY 

FOCUS 

TENDERVINO OFFERS A ONE-STOP-SHOP FOR COMPANIES LOOKING 

TO ACCESS THE MONOPOLY MARKETS IN CANADA AND SCANDINAVIA 

importer is the province, whereas in Scandinavia 

private importers buy from producers then 

resell to the monopolies. In both cases, we have 

local partners because neither the Canadian nor 

the Scandinavian monopolies allow companies to 

submit to tenders on their own, they only accept 

submissions from authorised agents and importers 

depending on the markets”. There are also 

perhaps lesser-known differences. “In Canada, 

the main difference is that the tenders are often 

open, sometimes very open: an example might be 

‘white wine from indigenous varieties from Italy’, 

so thousands of wines can be submitted. Also, the 

SAQ is the only monopoly that requests a fee for 

responding to a tender. Conversely, the LCBO, 

other Canadian monopolies and the Scandinavian 

monopolies are completely free of charge for 

the producer, aside from sending samples”. 

USING THE ON-TRADE AS A 

SPRINGBOARD 

Another major difference is that in Scandinavia, 

the on-trade has no links with the monopolies. “If 

an importer likes my wine, he can buy it. In Canada, 

if an agent likes my wine for a restaurant, he 

has to ask SAQ or the LCBO to buy the wines from 

the producer, so it’s not a completely free market”. 

The on-trade can provide an important stepping 

stone for artisanal producers to enter the monopoly 

stores. “If a wine sells well in restaurants 

in Scandinavia for example, the monopolies will 

look at it. If an importer sells one of my producers’ 

wines to the on-trade, they can also download it 

onto the monopoly app or website. If the metrics 

stack up, the monopoly might choose to list it, or 

another wine by the same producer. The opposite 

is also true – if you win a tender with say your 

cheapest wine, an importer may choose to import 

another wine in your range for the on-trade”. The 

same two-way connections exist between monopolies: 

a product that is successful in one monopoly 

may attract attention from another. 

Whatever the chosen route to market, Tendervino 

focuses on three main criteria: “There are a few 


ALESSANDRO SATIN’S 

ENDORSEMENT BY THE MERANO 

WINE FESTIVAL FOR THE 

CANADIAN AND SCANDINAVIAN 

MARKETS ALLOWS HIM TO REACH 

OUT TO HIGH-END ITALIAN 

ARTISAN WINE PRODUCERS 

key words and today they are the most important information you need. One is organic, another 

is sustainable and the third is international awards which are very important. If I’m choosing a 

winery, I check these three points. Obviously, we can continue even if they don’t have them, but 

the probability of winning a tender decreases significantly if they don’t have at least one or two 

of these criteria”. 

NUMEROUS ROUTES TO MARKET 

Aside from accessing the monopolies through tenders or the hospitality industry, spontaneous 

submissions offer an alternative route. Tendervino leverages its network of agents and importers 

in situ to take full advantage of this possibility. “This process is not harder than tenders, but it is 

longer. Here, having the right local partners is key. Monopoly buyers meet importers periodically 

and new wines can be presented. So if I have a new variety or a winery with a distinctive feature 

– the highest vineyard, say – then buyers are quite open and will issue a tender”. Alternatively, 

Tendervino helps respond to needs for packaging formats that producers may not directly offer: 

“Bag-in-box is a significant trend in the monopoly markets, particularly Scandinavia. A producer 

may have a great wine but doesn’t offer bag-in-box formats. So they provide the bulk wine and 

through our partner in Denmark, we put it in bag-in-boxes so that it can be sold to say Sweden”. 

ENDLESS SCOPE FOR DEVELOPMENT 

Looking ahead, Tendervino aims to consolidate its existing range of supplier countries and 

services – which also include educational programmes for companies looking to improve their 

knowledge of the monopoly markets – whilst also expanding its portfolio. “A lot of countries have 

the same problem working with the monopoly markets as Italy”, stresses Satin, whose company 

is now collaborating with groups in South America and other parts of Europe to help them 

engage with the monopolies. Similarly, there is untapped potential in the United States where 

many individual States still have monopolies for the sale of alcoholic beverages. The scope is endless 

and at a time when the world’s major monopoly markets are intent on ramping up their 

requirements – especially their own and their suppliers’ sustainability credentials – the need for 

expert support has probably never been greater. 


107

EMILY BLUNT: “WINE IN ITSELF 

IS A SENSORY JOURNEY FOR ME!” 

BY FRANK ROUSSEAU, 

OUR CORRESPONDENT IN LOS ANGELES 

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

The British-American actress who featured in ‘Mary 

Poppins Returns’, ‘Edge of Tomorrow’, ‘Oppenheimer’ and 

‘The Devil Wears Prada’, opens up about her love of fine 

wines. She shares her poetic thoughts on wine and invites 

us to enjoy it not just for its flavour but as a genuine cultural 

and artistic experience. 

What appeals to you most about wine? 

Emily Blunt: Its complexity. I love it when a wine reveals different 

layers of flavours and aromas as you taste it. A good wine should 

evolve in the glass, offering a new discovery with each sip. Whether 

it is a red wine with well-structured tannins or a white with sharp 

acidity, I like the idea that a wine can capture the essence of a 

place or specific occasion, and take you on a sensory journey. 

In my opinion, wine is not just a beverage – it’s a symphony of 

flavours and aromas that awakens the senses, the reflection of the 

land where it was born and the care with which it was made. It is 

a celebration of conviviality and sharing, where each bottle tells a 

unique story, rooted in time and experience. 

Apparently, you have a preference for Californian wines… 

Emily Blunt: I do indeed like Californian wines, especially red 

wines from Napa and Sonoma. But I don’t restrict myself to one 

region. I love to explore wines from around the world – they can 

be French Burgundy, Italian Chianti or Argentinean Malbec. Each 

region has something unique to offer and discovering new grape 

varieties and wine regions is always an adventure. I do, though, 

have a weak spot for Pinot Noir. I love its subtlety and the way it 

can be both delicate yet profound. But it also depends on the occasion. 

A good Chardonnay can be perfect for a summer’s evening, 

whereas a Cabernet-Sauvignon is ideal for a winter’s dinner. 

Have you tried producing your own wine? 

Emily Blunt: I have often been tempted by the idea. But making 

wine requires real skills and a lot of patience. I think that would 

need more time and commitment than I can offer at the moment. 

Saying that, I do love the idea of following the process from the 

vineyard to the bottle. Maybe one day, when I’m ready to embark 

on a new creative adventure, I’ll try and produce a small batch of 

home-made wine, even if it’s just out of curiosity. 

108 

AUTUMN 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

STARS 

& WINE 

Do you have a bottle of wine that you are keeping for a special occasion? 

Emily Blunt: Yes, I have a 2005 Château Margaux that I am treasuring for a very special occasion. It is an 

exceptional wine. 

And if you were to share a glass of exceptional wine with someone just as exceptional, who would that 

be, apart from your husband of course… 

Emily Blunt: Oh, that’s a difficult question! Maybe Meryl Streep. I worked with her on ‘The Devil Wears 

Prada’ and she is quite simply incredible, both professionally and as a person. I think that sharing a good 

wine with Meryl would spark a memorable conversation, full of wisdom, humour and colourful anecdotes. 

I would probably also invite the film director Christopher Nolan who gave me a part in ‘Oppenheimer’. He 

is renowned for the profundity of his films and I would be curious to know what types of wine inspire him. 

I would imagine that his taste in wine could be just as nuanced and intriguing as his films. 

Do you think wine should be demystified, or do you like the mystery surrounding it? 

Emily Blunt: A bit of both. I like the mystery and romanticism surrounding wine – the idea that a bottle can 

hold a small piece of history and the character of a particular place. However, I also don’t think that wine 

should be intimidating. It should be accessible to all, irrespective of how much you know about it. One of 

the greatest joys in life is sharing a good wine with friends, without worrying about expertise, just enjoying 

the moment. I do think that demystifying wine can help more people appreciate its beautiful flavours. 


109

CONTACT 

DETAILS 

Bordeaux – Pages 10-19 

• Château Biston-Brillette: 

Tel. +33 5 56 58 22 86 - www.chateaubistonbrillette.fr 

• Château Desmirail: 

Tel. +33 5 57 88 34 33 - www.desmirail.com 

• Château Mongravey: 

Tel. +33 5 56 58 84 51 - www.vignobles-bernaleau.com 

• Domaines Pedro: Tel. +33 5 56 73 32 10 - www.domaines-pedro.fr 

• Maison Bouey: Tel. +33 5 56 77 50 71 - www.famillebouey.fr 

Burgundy – Pages 20-29 

• Domaine Alain Geoffroy: 

Tel. +33 3 86 42 43 76 - www.chablis-geoffroy.com 

• Pascal Bouchard: Tel. + 33 3 86 42 18 64 - www.pascalbouchard.com 

• Lamblin & Fils: Tel. + 33 3 86 98 22 06 - www.lamblin.com 

• Château de Viviers: Tel. +33 7 56 00 42 29 - www.chateaudeviviers.fr 

• Louis Robin: Tel. + 33 6 83 82 98 73 - www.robin-chablis.com 

• Domaine du Colombier: 

Tel. + 33 3 86 42 15 04- www.chabliscolombier.com 

Spain – Pages 30-39 

• Celler de Capçanes : 

Tel. +34 977 178 319 - www.cellercapcanes.com 

• Grupo Coviñas: Tel. +34 962 30 06 80 - www.covinas.es 

• Bodegas Quiroga de Pablo: 

Tel. +34 606 042 478 - www.bodegasquiroga.com 

• Diez Siglos: Tel. +34 983 55 99 10 - www.diezsiglos.es 

• Mar de Frades: Tel. +34 941 310 316 - www.mardefrades.es 

South Africa – Pages 40-49 

• Benguela Cove: Tel. +27 873 570 637 - www.benguelacove.co.za 

• Asara: Tel. +27 218 888 000 - www.asara.co.za 

• Grands Chais de France (GCF): 

Tel. +27 (0)21 865 2002 - https://villiera.com 

• Brookdale: Tel. +27 764 000 229 - https://brookdale-estate.com 

• Eikendal: Tel. +27 21 855 1422 - www.eikendal.com 

• Aaldering: Tel. +27 21 865 2495 - www.aaldering.co.za 

• AdVini: Tel. +27 21 880 0717 - www.advini.com 

Rhone Valley – Pages 50-59 

• Domaine M. Chapoutier, Roc Folassière: 

Tel. +33 4 75 08 92 64 - www.chapoutier.com 

• Domaine Escalin: Tel. +33 4 75 98 58 40 - www.escalin.com 

• Château Bizard: Tel. +33 4 75 46 64 69 - www.chateaubizard.fr 

• Domaine Clavel: Tel : +33 4 66 82 78 90 - www.domaineclavel.com 

• Xavier Vignon: Tel. +33 4 90 94 76 85 - www.xaviervignon.com 

• Maison Ogier: Tel. +33 4 90 39 32 41 - www.ogier.fr 

Valpolicella – Pages 60-69 

• Tedeschi: Tel. +39 045 7701487 - www.tedeschiwines.com 

• Provolo Vini: Tel. +39 045 8880106 - www.viniprovolo.com 

• Pasqua Wines: Tel. +39 045 8432111 - www.pasqua.it 

• Cantina Valpolicella Negrar: 

Tel. +39 045 6014300 - www.cantinanegrar.com / www.dominiveneti.it 

• Cantina Biscardo: Tel. +39 045 8538052 - www.biscardovini.com 

• Antiche Terre Venete: Tel. +39 045 550801 - www.anticheterrevenete.it 

• Rubinelli Vajol: Tel. +39 045 6839277 - www.rubinellivajol.it 

South-West France – Pages 70-77 

• Vignobles Brumont: Tel. +33 5 62 69 74 67 - www.brumont.fr 

• Plaimont: Tel. +33 5 62 69 62 87 - www.plaimont.com 

• Domaine Guillaman: 

Tel. +33 5 62 29 13 82 - www.domaine-guillaman.fr 

• Domaine Nigri: Tel. +33 5 59 21 42 01 - www.jurancon-domainenigri.com 

• Les Vignerons de Buzet: 

Tel. +33 5 53 84 74 30 - www.nouslesvigneronsdebuzet.fr 

Moldova – Pages 78-87 

• Apriori winery: Mrs Irina Medvețchi ; Directeur Marketing ; 

Tel. +373 68 18 022 - irina.medvetchi@consalcom.md 

• Purcari: Mister Anton Tofan ; marketing ; 

Tel. +373 611 64 714 - a.tofan@purcari.wine 

• Vartely: Mrs Tatiana Coguteac ; Directeur Marketing ; 

Tel. +373 69 799 966 - tcoguteac@vartely.md 

• Aurelius Winery: Mr Tocan Radu ; Commercial export ; 

Tel. +373 699 54 731 - export@maurt.md 

• Cristina Tanasevschi - cristina.tanasevschi@maurt.md 

• Podgoria VIN: Mrs Dumi Balan ; Commercial export ; 

Tel. +373 797 01 672 - office@podgoriavin.md 

• Salucta: Mrs Dina Pislaru ; Commercial export ; 

Tel. +373 791 240 22 - dpislaru@salcuta.com 

• Wine of Moldova: Mr Alexei Moconu ; DirecteurMarketing ; 

Tel. +373 695 220 44 - amocanu@wineofmoldova.com 

Argentina – Pages 88-97 

• Kaiken: Tel. +54 9 2612155770 - www.kaikenwines.com 

• Cabrini: Tel. +54 9 261 4544414 - www.cabrini.com.ar 

• Les Amis: Tel. + 54 9 2616425317 

• Andeluna: Tel. +54 9 2615 08-1930 - www.andeluna.com.ar 

Portugal – Pages 98-102 

• Terras & Terroir: Tel. +351 254 331 229 - www.terraseterroir.com 

Italy – Pages 103-107 

• Tendervino: Tel. +39 3283018991 - www.tendervino.it 


PAGES 112 TO 122 

TOP WINES 

OUR AUTUMN SELECTION 

THE FOURTH TASTING SESSION OF 2024 SHOWS HUGE PROMISE 

Once again, the third tasting session of the year, which has just come to a close, was full of 

lovely surprises. And the upcoming session is shaping up extremely well. We continue to 

explore all of Eastern Europe which is replete with incredible gems. We are gradually moving 

into South America, from Argentina to Chile and Uruguay in particular. And to spice it all up, 

we are approaching some more exotic adjacent categories such as low and no-alcohol wines, 

grappas, vermouths and Calvados. 

THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE ROBIN BASKING IN THE SUNSHINE OF CHABLIS. 

THE BEST OF AUTUMN 2024 

Our selection, based solely on the comments and scores of our tasting panel as always, is presented on pages 

112 to 122. As is customary, we have chosen to present the wines by country (ARGENTINA, FRANCE, 

ITALY…) then by appellation for each region, with the name of the company or the chateau listed in alphabetical 

and descending order depending on the scores. In this issue, you will find a selection of Argentinean 

wines with very different styles; some French classics – Chablis, Médoc and under-the-radar wines from 

South-West France; a clutch of high-end Moldovan wines; a broad range of South African pours; and a selection 

of Spanish bottlings from native grapes with big personalities! 

THE TASTING PANEL: 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD 

FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT - OLIVIER DELORME – GONZALO FERNANDEZ - MATTHIEU GAILLARD – GERALDINE SPENCER - JAMES TURNBULL 


111

ARGENTINA - MENDOZA 


ARGENTINA 

We took a closer look at the variety 

of Argentine wines, not so much 

from a stylistic perspective as for the 

backgrounds of their makers. From the 

prominent wine family to the young, 

passionate winegrower, the informed 

investor and the varietal enthusiast, 

this fast-moving producer country has 

every type of profile whose paths often 

cross. 

MENDOZA 

MENDOZA 

FINCA MARTHA 90/100 

D CHARDONNAY 2023: Light yellow with 

golden highlights. Very expressive, captivating 

nose with a varied array of aromatics ranging 

from floral to fruity with spice notes. The 

palate is elegantly textured with well-balanced 

persistence. Very successful. 

http://www.andeluna.com.ar Price: € 8.99 

Andeluna Cellars SRL +54 261 429 9299 

CABRINI 89/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 

https://www.cabrini.com.ar/ Price: € 10.00 

Cabrini +54 9 2612 742 221 

CABRINI 87/100 

D MALBEC 2020 

https://www.cabrini.com.ar/ Price: € 10.00 

Cabrini +54 9 2612 742 221 

TUPUNGATO 

RETRUCO 90/100 

D MALBEC 2021: Color rojo granate con 

notas violáceas. En nariz expresa aromas 

principalmente florales y de fruta fresca, tales 

como violetas y grosellas. En boca presenta gran 

estructura que vaticina una buena capacidad de 

crianza manteniendo su frecura en boca. 

http://www.andeluna.com.ar Price: € 12.99 

Andeluna Cellars SRL +54 261 429 9299 

MENDOZA, LUJÁN DE CUYO 

AGRELO 

KAIKEN DESBANDADO 93/100 

D CABERNET FRANC 2021: Intense garnetred. 

The nose is elegant with oak influence, 

red fruits and spices including aromatics of 

redcurrant, blackberry and liquorice. The 

palate is silky yet structured. A menthol note 

accompanies the long, balanced finish in this 

wine with a good future ahead. 

http://www.kaikenwines.com Price: € 16.00 

Kaiken +54 261 562 0303 

KAIKEN VUELO 92/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021: Very 

intense, deep red. The nose exudes a variety of 

aromas including cherry, pepper and menthol. 

The palate is structured with well-balanced 

acidity. The finish is aromatic and complex with 

substantial persistence. This is wine to follow 

over time. 


Kaiken +54 261 562 0303 

MENDOZA, MAIPÚ 

RUSSELL 

LES AMIS 93/100 

CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022: 

Intense garnet-red. Expressive, mature nose 

driven by notes of liquorice and ripe black 

fruits. Spicy undertones also show through. The 

palate reveals very structured, youthful tannins 

ushering in a long, promising future. 

Price: € 25.00 

Les Amis wines +54 926 164 25317 

MENDOZA, SAN CARLOS 

PARAJE ALTAMIRA 

KAIKEN DESBANDADO 92/100 

D MALBEC 2021: Intense, brilliant purplered. 

Aromas of redcurrants and blackberries 

show through on the nose with a very delicate 

floral touch. The palate is in balance with the 

nose aromas, introducing a meaty yet spicy note. 

The finish is elegant with silky tannins. 


Kaiken +54 261 562 0303 

MENDOZA, TUNUYÁN 

LOS CHACAYES 

KAIKEN TERROIR SERIES 93/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021: RIntense, 

captivating, concentrated-looking ruby-red. 

Complex fruity nose offering up notes of leather, 

tobacco, fig and plum. The palate displays 

elegant tannins with great structure. The finish 

is ample and inviting. A wine showing great 

balance. 


Kaiken +54 261 562 0303 


D MALBEC 2021: Very intense purple-red. 

The nose delivers intense aromatics with ageing 

notes such as coffee, chocolate and black pepper. 

The tannins on the palate are silky yet agile. 

There are fig and grape jam aromas followed by 

a persistent, juicy finish. 


Kaiken +54 261 562 0303 

SALTA 

CAFAYATE 


D TORRONTES 2023: Yellow with green 

tints. The nose is very expressive with 

herbaceous and lemony aromatics. The palate 

is elegant at point of entry then continues with 

the same aromatics, augmented by a delicate, 

captivating floral touch. An interesting wine 

that develops significantly in the glass. 


Kaiken +54 261 562 0303 

MARTÍN BILBAO, THE CREATOR OF LES AMIS. 

112 AUTUMN 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

FRANCE - PETIT CHABLIS 


FRANCE 

Chablis is unquestionably a 

fundamental aspect of the Burgundy 

wine region, the bastion of Chardonnay. 

Here the variety is coupled with 

Kimmeridgian limestone which lends it 

its unique persona. We have selected an 

array of wines which are representative 

of the local proposition, divided between 

three appellations: Chablis Premier 

Cru, Chablis and Petit-Chablis. 

BURGUNDY 

CHABLIS 

CHÂTEAU DE VIVIERS 92/100 

CONV D CÔTA GRAND CLAUDE 2022: 

Beautiful golden yellow colour. Very expressive, 

complex nose, combining floral tones, ripe fruit 

and a hint of pastry. The mouth displays the 

same fullness and youthful power. This wine 

should be laid down, and will work wonders with 

shellfish. 

https://chateaudeviviers.co/ Price: € 39.00 

Château de Viviers +33 7 56 00 42 29 


CONV D CUVÉE CANA BIS 2022: Bright, 

golden yellow. Delicate woody vanilla nose, 

fruity (white peach, dried fruit) and floral (lime 

blossom) character. Youthful on the palate, 

marked by the ageing process, yet fresh, ample 

and chewy. A full-bodied Chablis in the making. 




CONV D SOUS LES PLANTES 2022: 

Appealing golden yellow colour. Clean, intense 

nose, combining ripe fruit and mineral tones. 

The mouth is remarkably precise, again 

combining fruit, substance and freshness. The 

finish is full, persistent and very pure. An Haute 

Couture» Chablis.» 



DOMAINE LE VERGER 90/100 

D VINTAGE 2022: Lovely clear, light gold. 

Muted nose revealing a clutch of mineral and 

fruity notes. The palate is elegant, balanced and 

fleshy with some typical flavours of meadow 

and white flowers. A good classic wine with 

potential. 

http://www.chablis-geoffroy.com Price: € 18.00 

Domaine Alain Geoffroy +33 3 86 42 43 76 

DOMAINE DU COLOMBIER 88/100 

D VINTAGE 2022 

http://www.chabliscolombier.com Price: € 13.00 

Domaine du Colombier +33 3 86 42 15 04 

LAMBLIN & FILS 87/100 


http://www.lamblin.com Price: € 21.99 

Lamblin Fils +33 3 86 98 22 00 

PASCAL BOUCHARD 85/100 

D LE CLASSIQUE 2023 

http://www.pascalbouchard.com Price: € 14.00 

Pascal Bouchard +33 3 86 42 18 64 

CHABLIS PREMIER CRU 

ALAIN GEOFFROY 92/100 

D BEAUROY 2022: Light gold. The nose 

shows beautiful intensity with a fusion of white 

flowers and buttery notes. Lovely fullness, 

volume and more of the same convincing 

aromatics on the palate. This is a top-flight 

Premier Cru. 



LOUIS ROBIN 90/100 

D VAUCOUPIN 2022: Pale yellow colour. 

Pleasant minerality, white fruit and floral 

notes on the nose. Seductive substance on the 

palate, with a youthful lively acidity and a noble, 

delicious fruitiness. A generous 1er cru in the 

STELLAR CHARDONNAY GRAPES IN THE VINEYARDS OF LAMBLIN. 

making. 

https://www.robin-chablis.com/ Price: € 18.00 

Louis Robin +33 6 83 82 98 73 


D BUTTEAUX 2021: Shimmering golden 

colour. The nose is precise and expressive, with 

fruity tones combined with very pleasant hints 

of menthol. Rich and beautifully balanced. The 

aromas express themselves without restraint 

over an already appreciable length. 


Louis Robin +33 6 83 82 98 73 


D VOSGROS 2022 


Louis Robin +33 6 83 82 98 73 

PETIT CHABLIS 

ALAIN GEOFFROY 88/100 




PASCAL BOUCHARD 88/100 

D BLANCS CAILLOUX 2023 

http://www.pascalbouchard.com Price: € 13.10 

Pascal Bouchard +33 3 86 42 18 64 

LAMBLIN & FILS 86/100 


http://www.lamblin.com Price: € 13.99 

Lamblin Fils +33 3 86 98 22 00 

AUTUMN 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

113

FRANCE - MARGAUX 



The village-designated appellations 

often do not make it into the limelight 

because their volumes are not that 

significant and many of the wines are 

marketed directly by the Grands Crus 

Classés to the Bordeaux wine trade. 

Our selection reveals that their vitality 

and appeal are undiminished and 

their price tags highly competitive by 

regional standards. 

BORDEAUX 

MARGAUX 

CHÂTEAU DESMIRAIL (1855 - C. 3rd G.) 94/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2021: Deep garnet-red 

colour. Delicate nose combining ripe fruity 

aromas with an elegant woody smokiness. On 

the palate, a lovely texture, polished tannins and 

an aromatic expression still in the making. A 

vintage emerging from its youth. For cellaring. 

http://www.desmirail.com Price: € 35.00 

Château Desmirail +33 5 57 88 34 33 

CHÂTEAU MONGRAVEY 92/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2021: Striking deep red 

colour. Racy nose combining silky oak and 

dazzling fruit. The palate reveals substance, 

freshness, expression and fullness, with an 

already promising aromatic bouquet on the 

finish. 

http://www.chateau-mongravey.fr Price: € 29.00 

Château Mongravey +33 5 56 58 84 51 

MONGRAVEY 91/100 

D VINTAGE 2020: Dark colour with purplish 

tints. Delicate, elegant, complex nose with hints 

of red fruit and precious wood. Remarkably 

smooth texture with great freshness and precise, 

lingering aromas. A highly accomplished cuvée. 



CHÂTEAU MONGRAVEY 90/100 

D VINTAGE 2020: Delightful dark colour 

with bright red tints. Concentrated nose of red 

and black fruit. Sappy mouthfeel, with wellintegrated 

tannins that allow the fruit to express 

itself freely. The finish is still firm but lingers 

beautifully. 



MOULIS 

CHÂTEAU BISTON-BRILLETTE 91/100 

HVE D VINTAGE 2021: Dense red colour 

with youthful reflections. Elegant nose 

combining floral, fruity and woody notes. In the 

mouth, an invigorating attack with substance, 

ampleness and freshness. The length is already 

there. Very promising. 

www.chateaubistonbrillette.com Price: € 19.00 

Château Biston-Brillette +33 5 56 58 22 86 

CHÂTEAU BISTON 89/100 


www.chateaubistonbrillette.com Price: € 12.00 

Château Biston-Brillette +33 5 56 58 22 86 

PAUILLAC 

MÉMOIRE DE MAISON BOUEY 90/100 

D VINTAGE 2019: Deep colour with youthful 

highlights. Classic nose showing vibrant 

youthfulness with a blend of red berry fruits 

and pronounced new oak notes. The palate is 

gifted with a lovey fleshy attack and fine, wellintegrated 

tannins. Admittedly oak influence is 

still dominant but the potential is there. 

http://www.maisonbouey.fr Price: € 16.00 

Maison Bouey +33 5 56 77 50 71 

SAINT-ESTÈPHE 

CHÂTEAU LAVILLOTTE 90/100 

D VINTAGE 2020: Fairly deep red, rubybrown 

tinges. Elegant woody vanilla nose, 

jammy red and black fruit, well-established 

spices. The aging and pronounced tannins 

confer structure. The fruit sails along at its own 

pace. All the qualities required for cellaring. 

http://www.domaines-pedro.com Price: € 18.00 

Domaines Pedro +33 5 56 73 32 10 

CHÂTEAU MONGRAVEY PERFECTLY ENCAPSULATES THE ELEGANT IMAGE OF BORDEAUX WINES. 


FRANCE - SAINT-MONT 



We take you on a journey to the land 

of secrets! South-West France is home 

to so many treasures that it was a real 

challenge to select a few. Here are the 

results of our tastings that accompany 

the article featured on pages 70 to 77. 

These are no-frills wines that make no 

attempt to conceal their origins or try 

and pretend to be something they are 

not. 

SOUTH WEST 

BUZET 

SAINT-MONT’S VINEYARDS SURROUND THE NAMESAKE MONASTERY. 

CHÂTEAU LA HITTE 86/100 


http://www.vignerons-buzet.fr Price: € 6.80 

Les Vignerons de Buzet +33 5 53 84 74 30 

CAHORS 

GRAND CHÊNE 86/100 

D MALBEC 2022 



CÔTES DE GASCOGNE 

DOMAINE DU COMTE 86/100 




DOMAINE GUILLAMAN 86/100 

CR D GROS MANSENG 2023 

http://www.domaine-guillaman.fr/contact.html Price: € 7.10 

Domaine Guillaman +33 5 62 29 13 82 

LA GASCOGNE D’ALAIN BRUMONT 

86/100 

D GROS MANSENG - SAUVIGNON 2023 

http://www.brumont.fr Price: € 6.00 

Vignobles Brumont +33 5 62 69 92 38 

LA GASCOGNE D’ALAIN BRUMONT 

86/100 

CR D MERLOT - TANNAT 2022 

http://www.brumont.fr Price: € 8.00 

Vignobles Brumont +33 5 62 69 92 38 


CR D CHARDONNAY 2023 




CR D FRISSON D’AUTOMNE 2023 



JURANÇON 

DOMAINE NIGRI 93/100 

CONV D TOUTE UNE HISTOIRE 2021: 

Golden yellow colour. Bouquet of honey, white 

floral notes, yellow and exotic fruit galore, 

hint of pastry. Smooth mouthfeel, very easy 

to digest, with a fine sweetness. Balanced and 

delicious. Fresh and very smooth on the finish. 

A remarkable Jurançon. 

https://www.jurancon-domainenigri.com/ Price: € 16.60 

Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 


CONV D PAS DE DEUX 2020: Pale golden 

yellow colour. The nose displays notes of honey, 

exotic fruit with hints of mango, guava and 

acacia blossom. The palate is soft without 

being opulent, fresh and delicate. Delicious 

mellowness, lovely aromatic frankness. 

Flavoursome delight. 


Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 

JURANÇON SEC 


ORG D PIERRE DE LUNE 2022: Golden 

yellow. Symphony of yellow and white fruit 

combined with heady floral notes, honey 

and pastry notes. The palate offers great 

complexity and aromatic depth. The generous 

body combines with freshness. Delicious 

unctuousness delightful. Very festive. 


Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 


ORG D CONFLUENCE 2023: Golden yellow 

colour. Crisp nose of yellow fruit, fresh exotic 

fruit, hints of honey and infused white floral 

notes. Full-bodied and fleshy on the palate, 

with a precise, generous and invigorating fruity 

dimension. A lively white. 


Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01 

SAINT-MONT 

GRANDE CUVÉE 91/100 

D TRADITION 2020: Dark, concentrated 

colour, still very young. Generous, fruity nose, 

with ripe fruit accented by subtle hints of toast. 

Ample palate, with pleasant tannins and longlasting 

fruit. Sensual, velvety finish. An absolute 

must! 

http://www.plaimont.com Price: € 13.00 

Producteurs de Plaimont +33 5 62 69 62 87 


115

ITALY - AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA D.O.C.G. 


ITALY 

Valpolicella’s image is most probably 

not what it should be. Its sizeable 

volumes have tended to turn the 

spotlight more on the entry-level labels 

that err on the side of simplicity. Our 

mission is to set the record straight. 

Take a closer look at our selection and 

you will notice that not a single wine is 

rated below 90/100. 

VENETIAN 

AMARONE DELLA 

VALPOLICELLA D.O.C.G. 

BISCARDO 96/100 

D CLASSICO 2006: Deep colour, with 

amber and tile-red reflections. Complex nose 

combining spices, coffee, cut hay, animal notes 

and maquis. Powerful, fleshy in the mouth, with 

a host of evolved aromas. An Amarone at the top 

of its game, delivering a memorable finish. 

http://www.biscardovini.com/it/contatti-it Price: € 70.00 

Mabis Cantine - Biscardo Vini +39 045 853 80 52 


D CLASSICO 2005: Beautiful mature amber 

colour. Bewitching nose of tobacco, mocha, 

undergrowth, a hint of oxidation, and discreet 

exotic wood. Velvety, concentrated, and lively, 

with a host of evolved, saline, intense, and 

persistent fragrances. A great Amarone. 




D CLASSICO 2007: Beautiful mature amber 

colour. Powerful, finely oxidative nose, offering 

dried fruit, cut hay, spices, fig and tobacco. 

Lively mouthfeel with a magnificent tertiary 

spectrum on a background of exotic wood, a 

marvel of tradition. For special occasions. 



ANTICHE TERRE VENETE 94/100 

D BAORNA 2021: The garnet red colour 

reveals dark fruit aromas of plum, cherry and 

blackcurrant with a smoky, chocolaty woodiness 

and sweet spices. Delicious flavours. A perfect 

blend of purity, fruit, tannins and ageing with a 

slender body and a great deal of grace. 

http://www.anticheterrevenete.it/ Price: € 37.20 

Antiche Terre Venete Srl +39 045 550 801 

CANTINA DI NEGRAR 94/100 

D LE PREARE 2020: Clear amber garnet 

colour. Complex nose of stone fruit, toasted and 

roasted notes, flintstone and a touch of menthol. 

Robust on the palate, already revealing a 

splendid range of youthful aromas, the intensity 

of which delights the taste buds. Magnificent. 

http://www.cantinanegrar.it Price: € 14.50 

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar +39 045 601 43 00 

PROVOLO 94/100 

CONV D 2016: Rich colour with orangeybrown 

tints. The bouquet offers white chocolate, 

cloves, and cinnamon aromas with jammy red 

and black fruit. Tender and delicate on the 

palate, with smooth tannins. The tasty, fruity 

structure, and the powerful, sheathed body 

promise a bright future. 

Price: € 43.00 

Provolo +39 045 888 01 06 

RUBINELLI VAJOL 94/100 

D CORTE SANT’ANNA CLASSICO 2017: 

Light red colour with garnet reflections. Delicate 

spicy-smoky nose with a delicate jammy red 

fruit structure. Harmonious, full-bodied and 

powerful in the mouth, with luscious flesh and 

suave length and finesse. A model of balance. 

Superb. 

http://www.rubinellivajol.it Price: € 40.00 

Rubinelli Vajol +39 045 683 92 77 

TEDESCHI 94/100 

CR D MATERNIGO RISERVA 2016: Deep 

garnet with subtle bricking. Generous nose 

marrying red fruits, animal and stony notes, 

fine spices and brandy. A soft, smooth attack 

leads into a heady palate with pure, persistent, 

appetising flavours. Designed for drinking with 

a cigar. 

http://www.tedeschiwines.com/ Price: € 100.00 

Tedeschi +39 045 770 1487 


D CLASSICO 2018: Deep garnet-red colour 

with amber reflections. Complex nose combining 

red and dried fruit, aromatic herbs, hay, with 

spicy and toasty notes. Full-bodied, lively and 

flavourful on the palate, seductive with its many 

exotic scents. A marvel of tradition. 



RUBINELLI VAJOL 93/100 

D CLASSICO 2016: Red color displaying 

evolution reflections. Nose with a distinguished 

tertiary profile, delicately woody and smoky 

with ripe fruity aromas. On the palate, a smooth 

and silky profile with exquisite chocolate and 

roasted flavors. A high quality amarone. 

http://www.rubinellivajol.it Price: € 45.00 

Rubinelli Vajol +39 045 683 92 77 

FAMIGLIA PASQUA 92/100 

D 2018: Light red colour with garnet tints. 

Nose of macerated black fruit, liquorice, sweet 

spices, smoky oak. Supple on the palate, tender 

for the appellation, offering a sensation of 

gourmet sweetness. The fruit is ripe, lively and 

fresh. A crisp Amarone. 

http://www.pasqua.it/ Price: € 25.00 

Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine +39 045 84 32 111 

VALPOLICELLA D.O.C. 


ORG D 2023: Light red colour with rubyred 

reflections. On the nose, juicy red and black 

berry aromas mingle with minerality, smoke and 

spice. Generous, full-bodied and crisp on the 

palate. Chiselled tannins round off the luscious, 

fruity palette. Superb. 

Price: € 9.50 

Provolo +39 045 888 01 06 

VALPOLICELLA D.O.C. 

SUPERIORE 

TEDESCHI 91/100 

CR D MATERNIGO 2019: Clear garnet with 

some bricking. Racy nose combining floral 

perfumes, cherry and wood with a sheen. The 

palate is ample and tense and reveals intense, 

clean aromatics. The mid-palate is still angular 

and the finish firm. This is an adolescent wine 

that is quite persuasive. 

http://www.tedeschiwines.com/ Price: € 22.00 

Tedeschi +39 045 770 1487 

VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO D.O.C. 

CLASSICO SUPERIORE 


D 2020: Clear garnet colour, with a few 

amber reflections. Engaging nose combining 

red fruit, burnt leaves, undergrowth, fine spices 

and liquorice. Full-bodied, elegant and rich 

mouthfeel, bursting at the seams with fruit and 

spices. A magnificent wine. 




ITALY - VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO D.O.C. SUPERIORE 


PASQUA’S BARREL CELLAR IS EXTREMELY APPEALING. 

DOMINI VENETI 91/100 

D LA CASETTA 2019: Mature colour with 

purple reflections. The bouquet is bursting with 

blackcurrant aromas and a noble, very engaging 

woodiness. On the palate, the wine is perfectly 

ripe, soft and fragrant, easily convincing. The 

greediest will open it now. 



DOMINI VENETI 91/100 

D TORBAE 2020: Moderately rich red colour, 

still evolving. Precise nose combining meaty 

notes, clear mineral fragrances and black fruits. 

Concentrated on the palate, with a clean tannic 

structure and an assertive breed. 




D 2021: Beautiful ruby colour. Very engaging 

nose of ripe red fruit, with a discreet hint of 

meat. The palate seduces with its fine texture, 

polished tannins and precise expression that 

lingers right through to the finish. A classic. 



VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO D.O.C. 

SUPERIORE 

ANTICHE TERRE VENETE 92/100 

D VEGRON 2022: Light red with garnetred 

tints. Aromas of ripe red and black berries, 

with a spicy, peppery and tobacco undertone rise 

from the glass. Suave on the palate, with velvety 

tannins. Full-bodied and unctuously aromatic. 

http://www.anticheterrevenete.it/ Price: € 18.00 

Antiche Terre Venete Srl +39 045 550 801 


D LE PREARE 2020: Rich garnet-red 

colour. Timid nose with hints of cherry, toast 

and smoke. Silky, slender palate combining 

complexity and a sensation of weightlessness, 

with elegant tannins. Delicacy and emerging 

depth, very successful. 




ORG D CAMPOTORBIAN 2020: Fairly deep 

colour with ruby-brown tints. The nose displays 

aromas of fine roasted wood, ripe wild fruit 

and sweet spices. The palate shimmers with 

a thousand lights, and feels dense and fleshy. 

Delicious fruity sweetness. Extremely charming. 

Price: € 18.00 

Provolo +39 045 888 01 06 

PASQUA 90/100 

D BLACK LABEL 2021: Clear garnet-red 

colour, with a hint of amber. Timid but engaging 

nose combining cherries, fine spices and smoky 

toasty notes. The palate is flavoursome, lively 

and fleshy, with good emerging depth. The long 

finish wins you over. 

http://www.pasqua.it/ Price: € 11.50 

Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine +39 045 84 32 111 


117

MOLDOVA - CODRU 


MOLDOVA 

In this Eastern European country, 

viticulture dates back aeons. Moldova 

benefits from a continental climate and 

rolling terrain that are both conducive 

to growing vines. In fact, it is located 

along the same latitude as Burgundy, 

which is one more reason to drill down 

deeper into this selection. 

CODRU 

CODRU 

AURELIUS 93/100 

D FETEASCĂ NEAGRĂ 2021: Rich garnetred 

colour with tile-red tints. Promising nose 

combining black fruit, liquorice, coffee, vanilla 

and a hint of pepper. Rich and concentrated in 

the mouth, with superb gourmet flows. Cloves, 

iris, spices. Superb. 

https://www.aurelius.md/en/ Price: € 10.00 

Aurelius Winery +373 228 713 21 


D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018: Deep 

garnet-red colour. Discreet nose combining 

blackcurrant, blackberry, hints of coffee, 

spices and iodine. Well-crafted and elegant yet 

powerful on the palate, revealing a plethora of 

concentrated young aromas. Very persistent. 




D MUSCAT ROSÉ DULCE 2023: Salmony 

pink colour. Delicate, clean nose, revealing 

subtle floral and fruity fragrances. In the mouth, 

the Muscat character asserts itself in a generous 

style, where balance, freshness and softness 

shine through. Lots of charm. 



CASTEL MIMI 90/100 

D FETEASCA NEAGRA 2020: Deep garnetred 

colour with tile-red tinges. Intense nose 

combining black fruit, coffee, toasty and spicy 

notes, with floral hints. Lively mouthfeel, fullbodied, 

ample, still firm, full of intense exotic 

flavours. Beautiful. 

https://www.castelmimi.md/en/ Price: € 10.00 

Castel Mimi +373 682 211 40 

CHÂTEAU VARTELY 90/100 

D TARABOSTE CHARDONNAY BARRIQUE 

2022: Light yellow gold. Racy nose revealing 

white fruit, peach, exotic and spicy notes and 

vanilla oak. Smooth and full on the palate, with 

an elegant freshness underlining the nobility of 

the generous aromas. A very successful wine. For 

poultry with herbs. 

https://www.vartely.md/ Price: € 10.00 

Chateau Vartely +373 685 005 55 

MOLDAVIA (ALL REGIONS) 

MOLDOVA WINES 


D ISTERIE 2019: Garnet. Smoky, ashy nose 

with underlying notes of black fruits, jammy 

red fruits and a hint of undergrowth. Nicely 

concentrated on the palate, a judicious mix of 

oak-ageing, fruit flavours and spice. Classy 

tannin, minty finish. A wine with personality. 


Castel Mimi +373 682 211 40 


t D VIORICA DE BULBOACA 2021: Lustrous 

lemon yellow. Enticing nose of tropical fruits, 

marmalade and melliferous flowers. Very 

seductive on the palate with gentle sweetness, 

ample fruit-focused flavours and crisp 

freshness. A refined off-dry wine to try with 

sweet and sour dishes. 


Castel Mimi +373 682 211 40 

STEFAN VODA 

STEFAN VODA 

CHÂTEAU VARTELY 93/100 

D TARABOSTE ROSU 2018: Rich garnet-red 

colour with amber tints. Racy nose combining 

blackcurrant, mocha, hints of menthol, fine 

spices and cedar. On the palate, a deep range of 

vibrant, evolved flavours supported by a lovely 

freshness. Long, spicy finish. A masterpiece. 

https://www.vartely.md/ Price: € 12.00 

Chateau Vartely +373 685 005 55 

VINARIA PURCARI 92/100 

D SINCE 1827 - LIMITED EDITION - PINOT 

GRIGIO ROSÉ 2022: Deep orangy colour. 

Intense fruity nose with hints of plum and 

apricot. Fresh and expressive in the mouth. The 

wine’s momentum persists all the way through 

to the finish, which delivers a very satisfying 

length. 

https://purcari.wine/en/ Price: € 8.00 

Vinaria Purcari +373 611 64 714 

SALCUTA 92/100 

D ENO ECLECTIC RED 2018: Deep garnetred 

with discreet tiled tints. Racy nose of 

blackcurrants, morello cherries, spices, 

eucalyptus and dried vegetation. Full-bodied 

ample mouth of great elegance. Deep, lively and 

fleshy, persistent finish. Peak in sight. Superb 

wine. 

https://salcutawine.md/en/ Price: € 4.00 

Salcuta Wine +373 222 452 52 

PURCARI 91/100 

D 1827 - LIMITED EDITON FETEASCA 

NEAGRA DE PURCARI 2021: Deep rubyred 

colour. Captivating nose combining 

blackberry, blueberry, fine spices, liquorice, 

mocha and finely toasted oak. Elegant and 

silky in the mouth, bursting with succulent 

flavours characterised by purity, precision and 

persistence. Superb. 



SALCUTA 91/100 

D EPIZOD LIMITED - SAUVIGNON BLANC 

FUMÉ 2022: Pale lemon yellow colour. Fragrant 

nose, offering hints of grapefruit, wild flowers 

and a vegetal touch. The mouth is luscious, 

offering a full-bodied, lingering juice with fine 

bitters and a hint of iodine on the finish. Lots of 

personality. 

https://salcutawine.md/en/ Price: € 7.00 

Salcuta Wine +373 222 452 52 

CHÂTEAU PURCARI 90/100 

D NOCTURNE - CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

DE PURCARI 2021: Beautiful dark red colour. 

Typical nose with hints of ripe blackcurrant. 

Great volume and well-polished tannins 

combine with the same well-developed varietal 

aromas throughout. A varietal wine that stays 

true to its terroir. 



VALUL LUI TRAIAN 

VALUL LUI TRAIAN 

ABORIGI 90/100 

D FETEASCA ALBA & FETEASCA REGALA 

2023: Bright, pale straw-yellow colour. Pleasant 

nose combining white fruit, butter and a discreet 

underlying minerality. The palate introduces 

exotic and spicy notes in a fleshy, lively frame 

displaying good balance. A wine bursting with 

character. 

http://www.podgoriavin.md Price: € 3.00 

Podgoria Vin +373 797 016 72 


SOUTH AFRICA - WALKER BAY 


SOUTH AFRICA 

The oldest vineyards in the New World 

were long the prerogative of the large 

Afrikaans landowners. Over the past 

decade or two, the number of investors 

has increased significantly, probably 

drawn by the wide open spaces, the 

appeal of something new and the 

potential of wines which until then 

tended to remain within the country. 

WESTERN CAPE 

WESTERN CAPE 

BROOKDALE 93/100 

D OLD VINE CHENIN BLANC 2022: Golden 

straw. Rich nose with layers of lanolin and dried 

stone fruit. Palate is developed, but youthful and 

crisp. Tangy apricot and citrus on the aftertaste. 

Layered and complex. Drink through 2028. 

https://brookdale-estate.com Price: R 385 

Brookdale Estate +27 76 400 0229 


D BRADBOURNE 2023: Light straw. 

Subdued nose with hints of stone fruit and ripe 

yellow fruit. Palate is pithy and dry with grapey 

notes and a hint of muscat on the aftertaste. Dry 

and rich. Layered and complex. A refined wine. 

Drink through 2028. 



PAULINAS RESERVE 92/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023: Light straw 

yellow. Tropical nose with passion fruit. Hints 

of vanilla oak on palate with an attractive mid- 

-structure and long finish. Offers extended 

cellaring qualities for at least another 5 years. 

http://www.ricketybridgewinery.com Price: R 250 

Rickety Bridge Winery +27 21 8762 129 

EIKENDAL 91/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2022: 

Dark ruby. Dark fruit and jam on the rich and 

layered nose. Tea leaf and grippy tannins on the 

sour cherry and rhubarb palate. Leather and 

spice on the refined and grainy aftertaste. Drink 

through 2030. 

http://www.eikendal.com Price: R 275 

Eikendal Vineyards +27 21 855 1422 

AALDERING 89/100 

D LADY M 2022 

http://www.aaldering.co.za Price: R 250 

Aaldering Vineyards +27 21 865 2495 


D MASON ROAD 2023 



AALDERING 88/100 

D PINOTAGE BLANC DE NOIR 2024 

http://www.aaldering.co.za Price: R 22 

Aaldering Vineyards +27 21 865 2495 

KEN FORRESTER 85/100 

D PETIT PINOTAGE 2022 

http://www.kenforresterwines.com Price: R 80 

Ken Forrester Wines +27 21 85 52 374 

WESTERN CAPE - CAPE 

SOUTH COAST 

WALKER BAY 

BENGUELA COVE 92/100 

D ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023: Light 

yellow. Citrus and marmelade on the nose. 

Melon and tropical notes on the full and rich 

palate. Dried citrus peel and passion fruit on the 

finish. Integrated and layered on the aftertaste. 


http://www.benguelacove.co.za Price: R 195 

Benguela Cove Lagoon Wine Estate +27 84 456 0420 


D ESTATE SYRAH 2022: Dark ruby. 

Blackberry and prunes on the dark fruit nose. 

Jammy and full on the palate with grainy tannins 

on the leathery and spicy finish. Complex and 

layered. Drink through 2029. 




D ESTATE COLLAGE 2022: Dark ruby 

garnet. Tea leaf and tomato leaf nose. Jammy 

and tart on the red berry palate. Grippy and 

layered on the dark berry and prune aftertaste. 

Rich and complex. Drink through 2029. 



THE SHIMMERING LANDSCAPE THAT ACTS AS A BACKDROP TO L’AVENIR. 


119

SOUTH AFRICA - COASTAL REGION 


WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL 

REGION 

COASTAL REGION 

FAMILY RESERVE 91/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Yellow straw. 

Canned peas and asparagus on the dried stone 

fruit nose. Palate is rich and layered with dried 

fruit and tangy citrus on the crisp, but integrated 

aftertaste. Developed, but still youthful. Drink 

through 2027. 

http://www.kleinezalze.co.za Price: R 284 

Kleine Zalze +27 21 880 0717 

PAULINAS RESERVE 90/100 

D CHENIN BLANC 2023: Light straw. Dried 

fruit nose with hints of vanilla. Ripe stone fruit 

and tangy citrus on the honeyed palate. Dried 

fruit and apricot on the layered finish. Drink 

through 2028. 



ARNISTON BAY 87/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2024 

http://www.stellenboschvineyards.co.za Price: R 95 

Stellenbosch Vineyards +27 21 881 3870 


D SHIRAZ 2022 




D ROSÉ 2024 



FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY 

PAULINS RESERVE 89/100 




STELLENBOSCH 


D SYRAH 2020: Dark ruby. Dark berry fruit 

and prunes on the rich and layered nose. Palate 

is complex and leathery with subtle spice and 

fine grainy tannins on the refined and integrated 

aftertaste. Refined and elegant. Drink through 

2030. 


Kleine Zalze +27 21 880 0717 


D CHARDONNAY 2023: Light straw. Citrus 

and marmelade on the ripe nose. Crisp and 

refreshing on the tangy citrus peel palate. Layers 

of marmelade, litchi and dried apricot on the 

finish. Complex and layered. Drink through 

2029. 


Kleine Zalze +27 21 880 0717 


D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019: Dark ruby. 

Mint and eucalyptus on the tea leaf nose. Dark 

and jammy on the palate with leather and spice 

following the nose. Black forest cake and dry 

grainy tannins on the blackberry finish. Big and 

bold. Drink through 2030. 


Kleine Zalze +27 21 880 0717 


D THE FMC 2023: Light yellow. Dusty 

nose with a hint of vanilla. Full and rich on the 

citrussy palate with a touch of marmalade on the 

tangy and tart aftertaste. Complex and layered. 




AN AERIAL VIEW OF NEW VILLIERA VINEYARDS. 

NEETHLINGSHOF 93/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022: Dark ruby 

garnet. Blackberry nose with violets and cassis. 

Tea leaf and tomato leaf on the palate with grippy 

tannins and sour cherry on the grainy finish. 

Will do well with age. Drink through 2030. 

http://www.villiera.com Price: R 145 

Iwayini +27 21 865 2002 

ASARA 92/100 

CR D TERROIR CHENIN BLANC 2023: 

Yellow straw. Rich nose with hints of dried 

fruit and apricot. Palate is tangy and developed 

with yellow fruit and dried stone fruit on the 

aftertaste. Layered and complex. Drink through 

2028. 

http://www.asara.co.za Price: R 350 

Asara Wine Estate +27 21 888 8032 

ASARA 91/100 

CR D TERROIR VIOGNIER 2023: Light straw. 

Yellow fruit and litchi on the nose. Palate is crisp 

and tangy with ripe stone fruit and yellow fruit 

following the nose. Layered and complex on the 

waxy, oily finish. Drink through 2027. 




SOUTH AFRICA - STELLENBOSCH 


THE MOST FAMOUS PHOTO OF KEN FORRESTER, WHOSE PROPERTY WAS BOUGHT BY ADVINI IN 2016.. 


D CHENIN BLANC 2022: Light straw. Vanilla 

on the developed and rich nose. Tangy citrus and 

lime on the palate with dried apricot and a well 

integrated oak finish. Complex and layered on 

the melon aftertaste. Drink through 2028. 


Kleine Zalze +27 21 880 0717 

L’AVENIR 91/100 

D PROVENANCE CHENIN BLANC 2023: 

Light yellow. Passion fruit and fruit salad on 

the nose. Full and complex on the rich palate 

with dried fruit, granadilla and litchi on the 

aftertaste. Integrated and layered. Drink 

through 2028. 

http://www.lavenirestate.co.za Price: R 125 

L’Avenir Estate + 27 21 889 5001 

L’AVENIR 91/100 

D PROVENANCE PINOTAGE 2022: Ruby 

garnet. Red berry and blackberry nose. Red 

apple and sour cherry on the grippy palate with 

a spicy leather note on the lengthy and layered 

aftertaste. Drink through 2029. 

http://www.lavenirestate.co.za Price: R 170 

L’Avenir Estate + 27 21 889 5001 


D OLD VINE RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 

2023: Light yellow. Tropical fruit nose with hints 

of granadilla. Fruit salad on the crisp palate with 

stone fruit and dried apricot on the aftertaste. 

Full and complex. Drink through 2027. 




D PAT’S GARDEN RESERVE 2020: Ruby 

garnet. Tomato-leaf nose with hints of red 

cherry. Leather and spice on the cranberry 

palate with sour cherry and rhubarb tartness on 

the grippy and dry finish. Drink through 2028. 



ASARA 89/100 

CR D VINEYARD 

COLLECTION 

CHARDONNAY 2023 




D PETIT CHENIN BLANC 2024 




D SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE 2023 



LE BONHEUR 89/100 


http://www.lebonheur.co.za Price: R 140 

Le Bonheur Wine Estate +27 21 875 5478 

ASARA 88/100 

CR D VINEYARD COLLECTION CHENIN 

BLANC 2023 



NEETHLINGSHOF 88/100 

D THE OWL POST 2022 


Iwayini +27 21 865 2002 

LE BONHEUR 86/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 

http://www.lebonheur.co.za Price: R 120 

Le Bonheur Wine Estate +27 21 875 5478 

VILLIERA WINES 86/100 

D PEARLS OF NECTAR NV 


Iwayini +27 21 865 2002 

ASARA 85/100 

CR D VINEYARD 

COLLECTION 

SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 



HILL & DALE 85/100 

D CHENIN BLANC 2024 


Iwayini +27 21 865 2002 

HILL & DALE 85/100 

D ROSÉ MERLOT 2024 


Iwayini +27 21 865 2002 


D RENEGADE 2021 



VILLIERA WINES 85/100 

D PEARLS OF NECTAR ROSÉ NV 


Iwayini +27 21 865 2002 


121

SPAIN - RUEDA D.O. 


SPAIN 

As a traditional wine producing 

country, Spain is replete with 

indigenous grape varieties which shape 

the inimitable characters of the wines 

and are increasingly gaining traction. 

We take a quick trip around Spain to 

introduce you to the most representative 

of those varieties, including Bobal, 

Tempranillo and Verdejo. 

CASTILE AND LEON 

RUEDA D.O. 

NÉKORA 88/100 

CONV D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 

http://www.diezsiglos.es Price: € 7.30 

Diez Siglos de Verdejo +34 983 55 99 10 

CANTO REAL 87/100 

CONV D VERDEJO 2023 



DIEZ SIGLOS 86/100 

ORG D ORGANIC 2023 



CATALONIA 

MONTSANT D.O. 

CABRIDA 92/100 

D 2022: Clear colour with garnet reflections. 

Complex nose with stone fruit, animal notes, 

menthol and spice, and a touch of mocha. Silky, 

full-bodied and rich on the palate, combining 

power and elegance with an array of southern 

fragrances. A magnificent wine. 

http://www.cellercapcanes.com Price: € 37.50 

Celler de Capçanes +34 977 17 83 19 

VALL DEL CALÀS 92/100 

ORG D 2022: Intense ruby colour with 

purple reflections. Appealing nose of blackberry, 

morello cherry, tobacco and fine spices. Fullbodied 

on the palate, with magnificent sunkissed 

aromas and velvety tannins. A virile, 

modern style of excellent craftsmanship. 



MAS DONÍS 90/100 

D OLD VINES 2021: Intense ruby-red colour. 

Delightful nose combining plum, cherry, fine 

spices, liquorice and toasty oak undertones. On 

the palate, a full-bodied, suave wine of great 

elegance, bursting with youthful flavours. Long 

finish with grainy tannins. 



MAS TORTÓ 90/100 

ORG D UNIQUE VINES 2022: Deep rubyred 

colour. Racy nose of stone fruit, fine spices, 

vanilla and eucalyptus. On the palate, pure, 

intense Mediterranean aromas in a full-bodied, 

powerful structure, delivering a harmonious 

sensation. Still firm, superb. 



PERAJ HA’ABIB 90/100 

D 2022: Lovely deep purple colour. Discreet 

nose combining blackcurrants, plums, fine 

spices, liquorice and quality oak. Concentrated, 

ripe and powerful on the palate, expressing a 

more generous, youthful expression. Excellent 

harmony and tannic finesse. 



LA RIOJA 

RIOJA D.O.CA. 

LAGAR DE CAYO 90/100 

D CRIANZA 2019: Deep garnet-red colour, 

lightly tile-red glints. Attractive nose revealing 

black fruits, notes of violets and aromatic 

herbs. Robust attack on the palate, with stewed 

fruit and a pleasantly fresh finish. A consistent 

ensemble. 

http://www.bodegasquiroga.es 

Quiroga de Pablo +34 941 37 93 34 

LAGAR DE CAYO 90/100 

D TEMPRANILLO BLANCO 2022: Bright, 

pale golden yellow, green highlights. Nose of 

ripe white-flesh fruit and flowers, hints of 

citrus and mown grass. Lots of character on the 

palate, a successful combination of sweetness, 

acidulous notes and a subtle bitter dimension. 



QUIRUS 90/100 

D SELECCION DE FAMILIA 2016: Dark 

garnet colour, tile-red glints. Greedy nose of 

black fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry), hint of 

coffee. Attack bursting with fruit and sunshine. 

A well-balanced ensemble still characterised by 

youthful tannins. Serve with a vegetable tagine. 



QUIRUS 90/100 

D TEMPRANILLO BLANCO 2022: Light 

straw yellow, pale green tints. Elegant nose of 

white flowers and white-flesh fruit, touch of 

citrus. Fresh and thirst-quenching with the 

flavours of boiled sweets, with nice salinity on 

the finish. Delicious with grilled fish or shellfish. 



VALENCE 

UTIEL-REQUENA D.O. 

ENTERIZO 87/100 

D RESERVA 2020 

http://www.covinas.com 

Grupo Covinas +34 962 30 06 80 

ENTERIZO 87/100 

D CRIANZA 2021 

http://www.covinas.com Price: € 3.00 

Grupo Covinas +34 962 30 06 80 

VILLA DE ADNOS 86/100 

D MACABEO SEMI DRY 2023 

http://www.covinas.com 

Grupo Covinas +34 962 30 06 80 

FARMING VINEYARDS ‘THE OLD-FASHIONED 

WAY’ AT COVINAS. 


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