AphroChic Magazine Issue No. 18
Happy everything! Our last issue of the year always comes out just at the start of the holiday season. And while the focus of the season has routinely been - buy, buy, buy. We wanted to focus on something different, and give you some - hope, hope, hope. It’s no question that things have been hard these past four years, and our world ever more chaotic. But there is hope, in the form of community, togetherness, and the celebration of our shared culture. In this issue, we hope that your spirit is moved when you read our cover story about Davóne Tines, his band, The Truth, and their new album, ROBESOИ. The album is an incredible musical feat that reshapes the classical genre, bringing a new perspective on the icon that was Paul Robeson, and inviting us all to lift our voices and speak our truth. We hope you feel inspired when reading about Brittney Ifememi’s brand, Ifsthetic. Infused with her Nigerian American heritage, Brittney shares ways that Ifsthetic can help you entertain and host in luxurious comfort this season. In culture, we hope you are moved to learn more about the Black experience in the Middle East, in Tala Al Arfaj’s article on NRTVE. An organization founded by Nini Oki, the mission of NRTVE is to reshape the narrative for Black creatives living in the Middle East and Africa (MEA). And in food, we hope you’ll enjoy bringing Rahanna Bisseret Martinez’s delicious Masa Doughnuts with Early Grey Glaze recipe to life in your own kitchen. A sweat treat that is perfect for the holiday season. This issue is also chocked full of history, as we take you through the Moorish history of Portugal, and into the deep historical significance of Watch Night and Freedom’s Eve. And we have a gift guide for you as well, sharing some of our favorite pieces from the new AphroChic catalog that are sure to help you bring comfort, peace and style home for you and all you hold dear this season. We wish you an absolutely joyful holiday season. May it be filled with hope. May you stay safe and well. We look forward to seeing you again in 2025.
Happy everything! Our last issue of the year always comes out just at the start of the holiday season. And while the focus of the season has routinely been - buy, buy, buy. We wanted to focus on something different, and give you some - hope, hope, hope. It’s no question that things have been hard these past four years, and our world ever more chaotic. But there is hope, in the form of community, togetherness, and the celebration of our shared culture.
In this issue, we hope that your spirit is moved when you read our cover story about Davóne Tines, his band, The Truth, and their new album, ROBESOИ. The album is an incredible musical feat that reshapes the classical genre, bringing a new perspective on the icon that was Paul Robeson, and inviting us all to lift our voices and speak our truth.
We hope you feel inspired when reading about Brittney Ifememi’s brand, Ifsthetic. Infused with her Nigerian American heritage, Brittney shares ways that Ifsthetic can help you entertain and host in luxurious comfort this season.
In culture, we hope you are moved to learn more about the Black experience in the Middle East, in Tala Al Arfaj’s article on NRTVE. An organization founded by Nini Oki, the mission of NRTVE is to reshape the narrative for Black creatives living in the Middle East and Africa (MEA).
And in food, we hope you’ll enjoy bringing Rahanna Bisseret Martinez’s delicious Masa Doughnuts with Early Grey Glaze recipe to life in your own kitchen. A sweat treat that is perfect for the holiday season.
This issue is also chocked full of history, as we take you through the Moorish history of Portugal, and into the deep historical significance of Watch Night and Freedom’s Eve. And we have a gift guide for you as well, sharing some of our favorite pieces from the new AphroChic catalog that are sure to help you bring comfort, peace and style home for you and all you hold dear this season.
We wish you an absolutely joyful holiday season. May it be filled with hope. May you stay safe and well. We look forward to seeing you again in 2025.
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a curated lifestyle magazine<br />
ISSUE NO. <strong>18</strong> \ WINTER 2024<br />
THE MOMENT THAT CHANGED FASHION \ THE ART OF BEING EXTRA \ EXPLORING PORTUGAL<br />
APHROCHIC.COM
Happy everything! Our last issue of the year always comes out just at the<br />
start of the holiday season. And while the focus of the season has routinely<br />
been "buy, buy, buy," we wanted to focus on something different, and instead<br />
give you some "hope, hope, hope."<br />
It’s no question that things have been hard these past four years, and our world ever more chaotic. But<br />
there is hope, in the form of community, togetherness, and the celebration of our shared culture.<br />
In this issue, we hope that your spirit is moved when you read our cover story about Davóne Tines, his<br />
band, The Truth, and their new album, ROBESOИ. The album is an incredible musical feat that reshapes the<br />
classical genre, bringing a new perspective on the icon that was Paul Robeson, and inviting us all to lift our<br />
voices and speak our truth.<br />
We hope you feel inspired when reading about Brittney Ifememi’s brand, Ifsthetic. Infused with her<br />
Nigerian American heritage, Brittney shares ways that Ifsthetic can help you entertain and host in luxurious<br />
comfort this season.<br />
In Culture, we hope you are moved to learn more about the Black experience in the Middle East, in Tala<br />
Al Arfaj’s article on NRTVE. An organization founded by Nini Oki, the mission of NRTVE is to reshape the<br />
narrative for Black creatives living in the Middle East and Africa (MEA).<br />
And in Food, we hope you’ll enjoy bringing Rahanna Bisseret Martinez’s delicious Masa Doughnuts with<br />
Early Grey Glaze recipe to life in your own kitchen. A sweet treat that is perfect for the holiday season.<br />
This issue is also chock full of history, as we take you through the Moorish past in Portugal, and into the<br />
deep historical significance of Watch Night and Freedom’s Eve. And we have a gift guide for you as well, sharing<br />
some of our favorite pieces from our new home decor collection that are sure to bring comfort, peace, and<br />
style home to you and those you hold dear.<br />
We wish you an absolutely joyful holiday season. May it be filled with hope. May you stay safe and well. We<br />
look forward to seeing you again in 2025.<br />
Jeanine Hays and Bryan Mason<br />
Founders, <strong>AphroChic</strong><br />
Instagram: @aphrochic<br />
editors’ letter
WINTER 2024<br />
DEPARTMENTS<br />
Read This 10<br />
Visual Cues 16<br />
Coming Up <strong>18</strong><br />
The Black Family Home 20<br />
Mood 32<br />
FEATURES<br />
Fashion // The Moment That Changed Fashion 40<br />
Interior Design // A Study in Neutrals 48<br />
Culture // NRTVE 62<br />
Food // A Delicious Holiday Treat 70<br />
Entertaining // The Art of Being Extra 74<br />
Travel // Exploring Portugal 86<br />
Sounds // Past Meets Present 96<br />
PINPOINT<br />
Artists & Artisans 102<br />
Lit 114<br />
Who Are You? 1<strong>18</strong>
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
Cover Photo: Davóne Tines<br />
Photographer: <strong>No</strong>ah Elliott Morrison<br />
Publishers/Editors: Jeanine Hays and Bryan Mason<br />
Creative Director: Cheminne Taylor-Smith<br />
Editorial/Product Contact:<br />
<strong>AphroChic</strong><br />
<strong>AphroChic</strong>.com<br />
magazine@aphrochic.com<br />
Brand Partnerships and Ad Sales:<br />
Krystle DeSantos<br />
Krystle@aphrochic.com<br />
Contributors:<br />
Tala Al Arfaj (below left)<br />
Tedecia Wint (below right)<br />
issue eighteen 9
READ THIS<br />
HOLIDAY<br />
BOOKS<br />
The <strong>AphroChic</strong> team loves to collect reading recommendations,<br />
from history to biography to fiction to young adult. The holidays are<br />
the perfect time to give and receive fantastic books. So here are our<br />
selections for the best ideas to give friends and family — or to purchase<br />
for yourself.<br />
picture book<br />
The Band in Our Basement<br />
by Kelly J. Baptist and<br />
Jenin Mohammed<br />
Publisher: Abrams. $<strong>18</strong>.99<br />
early reader<br />
Brown Girl, Brown Girl<br />
by Leslé Honoré<br />
Publisher: Little, Brown. $<strong>18</strong>.99<br />
preschool<br />
We Are Free, You & Me<br />
by Colin Kaepernick and Nessa Diab<br />
Publisher: Scholastic. $17<br />
middle<br />
reader<br />
The Secret Library<br />
by Kekla Magoon<br />
Publisher: Candlewick. $16<br />
young adult<br />
When the Mapou Sings<br />
by Nadine Pinede<br />
Publisher: Candlewick. $19.99<br />
10 aphrochic
Celebrate Black homeownership and the<br />
amazing diversity of the Black experience<br />
with <strong>AphroChic</strong>’s newest book<br />
In this powerful, visually stunning book, Jeanine Hays and Bryan Mason explore<br />
the Black family home and its role as haven, heirloom, and cornerstone of Black<br />
culture and life. Through striking interiors, stories of family and community,<br />
and histories of the obstacles Black homeowners have faced for generations,<br />
<strong>AphroChic</strong> honors the journey, recognizes the struggle, and embraces the joy.<br />
AVAILABLE WHEREVER BOOKS ARE SOLD
READ THIS<br />
HOLIDAY<br />
BOOKS<br />
cookbook<br />
Praisesong for the<br />
Kitchen Ghosts<br />
by Crystal Wilkinson<br />
Publisher: Clarkson<br />
Potter. $<strong>18</strong>.99<br />
biography<br />
A Passionate Mind<br />
in Relentless Pursuit<br />
by <strong>No</strong>liwe Rooks<br />
Publisher: Penguin Press. $15<br />
true crime<br />
Morningside<br />
by Aran Shetterly<br />
Publisher: Amistad.<br />
$23.99<br />
music<br />
Hip Hop Is History<br />
by Ahmir Thompson<br />
Publisher: AUWA. $20<br />
narrative<br />
nonfiction<br />
The Black Utopians<br />
by Aaron Robertson<br />
Publisher: Farrar, Straus<br />
and Giroux. $26<br />
history<br />
The Swans of Harlem<br />
by Karen Valby<br />
Publisher: Pantheon. $20<br />
12 aphrochic
APHROCHICTV<br />
Stream The Culture<br />
APHROCHIC.COM
READ THIS<br />
HOLIDAY<br />
BOOKS<br />
fiction<br />
Sky Full of Elephants<br />
by Cebo Campbell<br />
Publisher: Simon & Schuster.<br />
$22<br />
poetry<br />
Woke Up <strong>No</strong> Light<br />
by Leila Mottley<br />
Publisher: Knopf. $20<br />
thriller<br />
One of Us Knows<br />
by Alyssa Cole<br />
Publisher: William Morrow.<br />
$15<br />
mystery<br />
The Accomplice<br />
by Curtis Jackson<br />
Publisher: Amistad. $19<br />
book club<br />
Colored Television<br />
by Danzy Senna<br />
Publisher: Riverhead. $23<br />
award winner<br />
A Spell of Good Things<br />
by Ayobámi Adébáyo<br />
Publisher: Vintage. 13<br />
14 aphrochic
VISUAL CUES<br />
Kind of Blue by Claudette Johnson<br />
A new exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art examines the Black figure in Western art history, and the<br />
fact that it is also often missing. Running through Feb. 9, 2025, The Time Is Always <strong>No</strong>w: Artists Reframe the<br />
Black Figure features 60 contemporary works focused around three core themes — Double Consciousness,<br />
The Persistence of History, and Our Aliveness. Double Consciousness, a theory first introduced in <strong>18</strong>97 by<br />
the African American sociologist W.E.B Du Bois, explores concepts of being, belonging, and Blackness as a<br />
psychological state. The Persistence of History looks at the absence of Black figures in many mainstream<br />
narratives and shows how artists have responded. Our Aliveness features assertions and celebrations of Black<br />
assembly and gathering. Curated by British writer and the former Director of the Institute of Contemporary<br />
Arts, Ekow Eshun, The Time Is Always <strong>No</strong>w takes its title from an essay on desegregation by American writer<br />
and social rights activist James Baldwin. He wrote: “There is never a time in the future in which we will work<br />
out our salvation. The challenge is in the moment, the time is always now.” The exhibit features 28 Black and<br />
African Diasporic contemporary artists, including Michael Armitage, Lubaina Himid, Kerry James Marshall,<br />
Toyin Ojih Odutola, and Amy Sherald, and showcases paintings, sculpture, and drawings. Through their work<br />
these artists invite a shift in the dominant art historical perspective from “looking at” the Black figure to<br />
“seeing through” the eyes of Black artists and the figures they depict. Their art illuminates the richness, joy,<br />
beauty, and complexity of Black life.<br />
16 aphrochic
Meet Asari Chair by Herman Miller
COMING UP<br />
Meetings, conferences and events exploring activism and social change across the African Diaspora<br />
Zora Festival<br />
January 31-February 2, 2025 | Eatonville, FL<br />
This outdoor festival of the arts offers live music, art, crafts,<br />
food, and more. Celebrating Black heritage, art, and culture, the<br />
event is named for Zora Neale Hurston, an African American writer,<br />
anthropologist, folklorist, and documentary filmmaker. The festival<br />
also offers the Zora STEM Hub Tent, an Augmented Reality<br />
Tour of Eatonville’s rich history, and the ability to visit the Zora<br />
Neale Hurston National Museum of Fine Arts. Each day also has<br />
a theme, like Education Day, Family Day, and A Day of Reflection.<br />
Learn more at zorafestival.org.<br />
.<br />
African American Heritage Festival<br />
February 20-22, 2025 | Charlotte, NC<br />
Sponsored by the Charlotte Museum of History, the 2025 African<br />
American Heritage Festival kicks off 2025 with the theme Black<br />
Country. It will focus on the Black experience in rural Mecklenburg<br />
County over time through performances, guest speakers, panels,<br />
and community-focused events for the whole family. The event<br />
will highlight Black farmers, rural communities, and the history<br />
of Black families in and around Charlotte. Learn more at<br />
charlottemuseum.org.<br />
National Brotherhood of Snowsports Summit<br />
February 22-March 1, 2025 | Dillon, CO<br />
The National Brotherhood of Snowsports Summit was formed to support and<br />
promote winter sports for Black athletes. Its mission is “to identify, develop, and<br />
support athletes of color who will win International and Olympic winter sports<br />
competitions representing the United States and to increase participation in<br />
winter sports.” The Summit is an annual gathering and fundraiser that brings<br />
together over 60 member clubs and thousands of supporters for a week of<br />
winter sports fun. Snowsport activities include skiing, snowboarding, tubing,<br />
snow mobiling, ice skating, snow shoeing, and more. Events throughout the<br />
week also include networking, mixers, happy hours, concerts, parties, racing/<br />
competitions, and a gospelfest. Learn more at nbs.org.<br />
<strong>18</strong> aphrochic
ALODIA<br />
SCULPTURAL<br />
CANDLE<br />
APHROCHIC.COM
THE BLACK FAMILY HOME<br />
Joy Comes in the Morning:<br />
The History of Watch Night/Freedom’s Eve<br />
The American observance of Watch Night/Freedom's Eve traditionally<br />
spans both the night of New Year’s Eve and the first day of the year, with<br />
the overnight observance giving way to day-long feasts the following<br />
day. Whether at churches, community centers, or in Black family homes,<br />
the menus at these parties often boast an assortment of familiar dishes,<br />
including yams, cornbread, collard greens, mac and cheese, potato salad<br />
and Hoppin’ John — a mix of black-eyed peas, peppers, and pork over rice,<br />
thought to bring luck for the new year. The events also feature joy and<br />
thanksgiving. But where and how did these celebrations first begin? It all<br />
began with a proclamation:<br />
"On the first day of January in the year of our Lord, one thousand eight hundred and<br />
sixty-three, all persons held as slaves within any State, or designated part of a State, the<br />
people whereof shall then be in rebellion against the United States shall be then, thenceforward,<br />
and forever free; and the executive government of the United States, including<br />
the military and naval authority thereof, will recognize and maintain the freedom of such<br />
persons, and will do no act or acts to repress such persons, or any of them, in any efforts they<br />
may make for their actual freedom."<br />
These words, first set forth by Abraham Lincoln in his Preliminary Emancipation<br />
Proclamation issued on September 22, <strong>18</strong>62, were meant to accomplish a number<br />
of things. First and foremost, they were a point of military strategy. The Preliminary<br />
Proclamation was made only days after the Battle of Antietam, which would prove to<br />
be the deadliest engagement of the Civil War. Despite taking higher casualties and<br />
failing to produce a conclusive military result, the Union came out the overall winner<br />
The Black Family Home is an<br />
ongoing series focusing on the<br />
history and future of what home<br />
means for Black families.<br />
This series inspired the new book<br />
<strong>AphroChic</strong>: Celebrating the Legacy<br />
of the Black Family Home.<br />
Words by Bryan Mason<br />
Photos by Anna Shvets, Diego F. Parra, Ebru Yilmaz, Egor Komarov,<br />
Mehmet Turgut Kirkgoz and Cotton Bro Studio<br />
20 aphrochic
22 aphrochic
issue eighteen 23
THE BLACK FAMILY HOME<br />
of the battle, which represented a significant strategic victory.<br />
From this perspective, the proclamation was the perfect way for<br />
the Union to press its advantage.<br />
The supply train is one of the most important and therefore<br />
vulnerable parts of any military effort. Still considered chattel,<br />
and therefore property, enslaved people were a significant part<br />
of the apparatus upon which the Confederate army ran. With<br />
some 89% of eligible Southern white men serving in the army,<br />
the South relied more than it ever had on the forced labor of<br />
enslaved people. This labor was invaluable to the army as well,<br />
as enslaved people were forced to build everything from fortifications<br />
to cannons while filling vital support roles in areas<br />
such as cooking and laundry services. Because supply trains are<br />
so important, they tend to be well-guarded. Disrupting them<br />
is crucial, but attacking them is risky. The Emancipation Proclamation<br />
is likely one of the few instances in military history<br />
where a nation severely degraded the supply train of an enemy,<br />
not through raids or blockades, but simply by giving much of it<br />
permission to walk away.<br />
At the same time, the proclamation was worded in such a<br />
way as to offer a way out to any within the Confederate ranks<br />
that may have been having second thoughts, offering to end the<br />
conflict while preserving the institution of slavery — if only for<br />
a while. <strong>Issue</strong>d in September with an effective date of January<br />
1 of the following year, the proclamation asserted that it would<br />
go into effect only in those “states and parts of states” designated<br />
as being “in rebellion against the United States,” and without<br />
representation in Congress as of that date. Ostensibly then, any<br />
state that had, by then, relinquished its state of rebellion would<br />
have avoided the enforcement of the proclamation.<br />
As it stands, the proclamation did not go into effect in<br />
Tennessee, Kentucky, Missouri, Maryland, Delaware, or the<br />
areas of Virginia and Louisiana controlled by Union forces,<br />
leaving slavery to continue unmolested in those territories.<br />
Traditional American slavery would not end as a whole<br />
until December 31, <strong>18</strong>65, several months after General Lee’s<br />
surrender and Abraham Lincoln’s assassination, when the 13th<br />
Amendment was ratified. Even then, several Southern states<br />
refused or severely delayed ratification, such as Mississippi,<br />
which did not complete its ratification of the 13th Amendment<br />
until February 7, 2013.<br />
From another perspective, the Emancipation Proclamation<br />
was a shrewd piece of international statecraft. By <strong>18</strong>62,<br />
King Cotton Diplomacy — the Confederacy’s plan to force Great<br />
Britain into recognizing and supporting it in the war effort —<br />
was beginning to take effect. Cotton was the cornerstone of the<br />
British economy at that time, the vast majority of which came<br />
from the American South, particularly Mississippi. The same<br />
was true of France. Though Britain had stockpiled a surplus of<br />
the raw material in anticipation of an internal U.S. conflict, by<br />
<strong>18</strong>62 its stores were running low, and the threat of one or both<br />
of the foreign nations entering the war on the Confederate side<br />
loomed large over the Union. However, Lincoln’s proclamation<br />
centered slavery as a major focus of the war, which previously<br />
had been concerned primarily with preventing the secession<br />
of southern states from the Union. The proclamation made<br />
it clear that any foreign nation siding against the Union was<br />
openly allying itself with the institution of slavery, something<br />
the British in particular were loathe to do, thus keeping both<br />
nations out of the war.<br />
Finally, having suffered the greater burden of casualties at<br />
Antietam and other engagements, the Union needed to bolster<br />
its ranks, and early attempts at conscription resulted in riots.<br />
Though it did not integrate the armed services of the United<br />
States, the Emancipation Proclamation did open the Army and<br />
Navy to newly freed African Americans. By conflict’s end, nearly<br />
200,000 Black servicemen had joined their ranks, while by<br />
January <strong>18</strong>65, the Confederate forces were suffering from widespread<br />
food shortages and desertions.<br />
For a certainty, when Abraham Lincoln first set the words<br />
of his proclamation to paper, he did so for a number of reasons.<br />
It is likely that ensuring the happiness and wellbeing of Black<br />
Americans and their progeny was not chief among them. Yet for<br />
the almost 4 million enslaved Black people whose condition of<br />
slavery did fall under the purview of the document, none of that<br />
mattered. As they gathered in churches on New Year’s Eve <strong>18</strong>62,<br />
awaiting word of an outcome that was anything but certain, the<br />
only question anyone had was whether Lincoln would keep his<br />
word.<br />
The observance of the last night of slavery in the Confederate<br />
South, and the joy that followed the news that the proclamation<br />
had indeed been enacted, was the beginning of Watch Night,<br />
or Freedom’s Eve, which has been a part of New Year’s Eve celebrations<br />
in African American communities ever since.<br />
The occasion of Watch Night/Freedom’s Eve as it is<br />
currently observed in the U.S. is, in some ways, the convergence<br />
of two older traditions. The first, Watch Night, a midnight<br />
vigil on the eve of a new year, began with Protestant Moravian<br />
churches in <strong>18</strong>th century Bohemia. It was later adopted by Englishman<br />
John Wesley, a founder of the Methodist church, for<br />
his parishioners. In <strong>18</strong>16, Richard Allen formed the African<br />
Methodist Episcopal Church in Philadelphia, creating a space<br />
for worship for Black parishioners away from the racism they<br />
experienced even in the city’s nominally integrated churches.<br />
24 aphrochic
issue eighteen 25
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issue eighteen 27
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issue eighteen 29
THE BLACK FAMILY HOME<br />
The second tradition was the celebration of Freedom’s Eve, which originated in the<br />
Caribbean, some years ahead of American emancipation. Britain’s passage of the Slavery<br />
Abolition Act freed some 800,000 people in its Caribbean colonies. Unlike the Emancipation<br />
Proclamation however, British colonial abolition went into effect in the middle of the<br />
summer, on August 1, <strong>18</strong>34. The first Freedom’s Eve celebrations were held on July 31, both<br />
in the Caribbean and in the United States, where it became a major holiday for Black people<br />
both free and enslaved, especially in the northeast. The occasion was celebrated all the more<br />
as Britain’s move away from colonial slavery was precipitated by a major uprising in Jamaica,<br />
led by preacher Sam Sharpe, which lasted for more than a month.<br />
From the <strong>18</strong>30s to <strong>18</strong>50s, August First Day celebrations were major events for the<br />
American abolitionist movement, which received support and funding from British abolitionists.<br />
By the <strong>18</strong>80s, it had reached the South as well. Yet, by then the start and ending<br />
of the Civil War, along with the passage of the Emancipation Proclamation and the 13th<br />
Amendment caused a turn towards other celebratory dates among African Americans,<br />
including the 4th of July, Juneteenth, and Watch Night.<br />
In some ways, the American tradition is as much a perfect confluence of dates as it is<br />
a continuation of the two older observances. The habit of keeping vigil on New Year’s Eve<br />
was likely already a habit for many, as was the celebration of August First Day. The timing of<br />
the Emancipation Proclamation simply allowed the two to be joined. And since the event fits<br />
perfectly in either category, at least with regard to the date of American emancipation, the<br />
names remain interchangeable.<br />
Today, while Watch Night celebrations are plentiful throughout the nation, not all<br />
retain the connection with Freedom’s Eve. But awareness is growing around this important<br />
holiday once again. In 2020, the Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor National<br />
Heritage Area broadcast its Freedom’s Eve celebration live on Facebook, complete with a<br />
panel discussion and screening of the documentary Watch Night: An Extended Public Service<br />
Announcement. And in 2021, the National Museum of African American History and Culture<br />
held an hour-long virtual panel entitled Freedom’s Eve | Watch Night, Family, and Memory.<br />
We can, and likely will, debate forever the truest intentions and deepest desires of<br />
Abraham Lincoln’s heart while writing and later effecting the Emancipation Proclamation.<br />
Whether a military measure, a political safeguard, or a seized opportunity to do good among<br />
all the evils of slavery and war, the fact remains that for the millions of people the proclamation<br />
freed from the bonds of slavery, and the countless more of us who trace our roots to<br />
them, the act was enough. And whatever the intention, it marked and still marks a major step<br />
forward in the story of this nation.<br />
At the same time, the stain that racism has left on every step the nation has taken since<br />
— from the assassination of Lincoln to the crumbling of Reconstruction and the 13th Amendment’s<br />
rebranded continuation of American slavery though the prison industrial complex —<br />
lends continued urgency to celebrations such as Watch Night / Freedom’s Eve, to remind us<br />
that however imperfect the current situation may be, we are always capable of taking a big<br />
step forward.<br />
So this New Year’s Eve, as the clock approaches midnight, let’s all spare some time<br />
to remember all that came before December 3, <strong>18</strong>62, and all that happened after. And<br />
while we’re at it, let’s bring back August First Day, too. Because we celebrate best when we<br />
celebrate together. AC<br />
30 aphrochic
AN EVENING<br />
WITH<br />
APHROCHIC<br />
EVENINGS IN WITH AUTHORS,<br />
FILMMAKERS, DESIGNERS &<br />
ARTISTS FOR THE CULTURE.<br />
LIVE ON APHROCHICTV.
MOOD<br />
The Perfect Holiday<br />
Back in the day, our perfect holiday meant leaving our<br />
apartment in Brooklyn and heading down to Philly to<br />
visit lots of family and friends. While it was fun, it was<br />
also a whirlwind, visiting three houses on Christmas Day<br />
alone. Throughout the week, seeing every auntie, uncle,<br />
and friend in the tri-state area left us pretty spent, and<br />
needing a holiday after the holiday. These past few years,<br />
as life has slowed down since 2020, the perfect holiday<br />
means something different to us. We opt for days that<br />
are laidback — decorating the tree (not the whole house),<br />
making a few of our favorite dishes, FaceTiming with<br />
family and friends, streaming a favorite holiday movie<br />
like Baggage Claim, and putting on some classic Motown<br />
Christmas tunes is simply perfect. This year, to help you<br />
have the perfect holiday, we designed some new pieces<br />
that promote relaxation, self-care, special moments at<br />
home; and if you’re traveling — traveling with ease. Mugs<br />
for that perfect cup of hot cocoa, a sculptural candle that<br />
adds a special glow, comfy PJs for lounging around the<br />
house. These are pieces for you and yours that can help<br />
bring your perfect holiday to life.<br />
Alodia Sculptural<br />
Candle $98<br />
Kamala ’24 Teacup<br />
and Saucer Set of 2<br />
$150<br />
Dunham Watercolor<br />
Velvet Pillow in Wine $148<br />
FIND ALL THE GIFTS ON<br />
APHROCHIC.COM<br />
32 aphrochic
GIFTS FOR<br />
THE HOME<br />
Silhouette<br />
Classic Serving<br />
Platter $98<br />
Juju Linen<br />
Watercolor Pillow<br />
in Black $135<br />
Kamala ’24 Dinner<br />
Plate Set of 2<br />
$120<br />
Silhouette Classic Fine<br />
Bone China Mug<br />
Set of 6 $<strong>18</strong>0<br />
Legacy Fine Bone<br />
China Mug $60<br />
Kamala ’24 Dessert<br />
Plate Set of 2<br />
$105<br />
Silhouette Classic<br />
3-Tiered Cake Stand<br />
$110<br />
issue eighteen 33
MOOD<br />
Jumping The Broom<br />
Classic Leather Duffel<br />
Bag $750<br />
Crown Monarch Tracksuit<br />
Jacket in Black $175<br />
Jumping The Broom<br />
Classic Carry-On $350<br />
Crown Monarch Tracksuit<br />
Pants in Black $178<br />
Single Ladies Bluetooth<br />
Speaker $60<br />
FIND ALL THE GIFTS ON<br />
APHROCHIC.COM<br />
34 aphrochic
GIFTS FOR<br />
TR AVEL<br />
Jubilation <strong>18</strong> oz.<br />
Water Bottle $39<br />
Hustle Classic Leather<br />
Backpack in Fuchsia $2<strong>18</strong><br />
Jubilation Watercolor<br />
Eco Puffer $<strong>18</strong>5<br />
Hustle Classic High Tops<br />
in Fuchsia $90<br />
Legacy Linen<br />
Tote $60<br />
issue eighteen 35
MOOD<br />
GIFTS FOR<br />
SELF CARE<br />
Sisters Candle $60 Sisters Slippers $98<br />
Jubilation Watercolor<br />
Pajama Shirt<br />
$178<br />
Sisters Classic<br />
Kimono $2<strong>18</strong><br />
Wild At Home: How<br />
To Style and Care For<br />
Beautiful Plants $27<br />
Jubilation Watercolor<br />
Pajama Pants $138<br />
FIND ALL THE GIFTS ON<br />
APHROCHIC.COM<br />
36 aphrochic
FEATURES<br />
The Moment That Changed Fashion | A Study in Neutrals | NRTVE |<br />
A Delicious Holiday Treat | The Art of Being Extra | Exploring Portugal |<br />
Past Meets Present
Fashion<br />
The Moment That<br />
Changed Fashion<br />
A New Record of The Battle of Versailles<br />
In her introduction to the new fashion tome The Battle of Versailles:<br />
The Fashion Showdown of 1973, Pat Cleveland — one of America’s<br />
first supermodels and one of the most prominent African American<br />
models to emerge in the 1960s — paints a picture of the historic<br />
moment when American fashion stole the show in Versailles, forever<br />
transforming the industry.<br />
“Everything was like a fairy tale. The cherubs<br />
were dancing on the ceiling! It was akin to an even<br />
playing field. That's a feat, isn't it? To accomplish<br />
such a thing when you had such diversity in that<br />
room. It wasn't just Black versus white. The socioeconomic<br />
diversity: ridiculously, insanely rich, and not<br />
so much. But that’s where you see the humanity of the<br />
arts. You see what’s important. The things that you<br />
cannot buy in an environment that is so sumptuous<br />
and beautiful and over-exaggerated. America is a<br />
fruit bowl. You can expect that every color, every level<br />
of society, is going to be represented. A sort of tower<br />
fell for the French in 1973. Accepting people just as<br />
human beings, from different levels, from different<br />
backgrounds, coming into your country. They had<br />
sympathy, too. They had feelings about Americans.<br />
‘Those poor Americans, they don't know fashion like<br />
we know fashion.’ They were like, ‘Okay, let's let them<br />
come over and play.’ But we came over and we won<br />
the chess game. It was checkmate.”<br />
Words by Jeanine Hays<br />
Photos by © Jean-luce Huré - Courtesy of Bridgeman Images and © Bill Cunningham<br />
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Fashion<br />
It was 1973. The Civil Rights Movement<br />
had ended. Disco was taking over the<br />
airwaves, and American life was more integrated<br />
than ever before. That year, a benefit<br />
would take place in France in the Château<br />
de Versailles, a former royal residence commissioned<br />
by King Louis XIV. The palace was<br />
in need of restoration, and to raise funds a<br />
historic battle was put on in what was considered<br />
the heart of the fashion world and<br />
the birthplace of couture.<br />
American fashion designers Oscar de<br />
la Renta, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Bill<br />
Blass, and Anne Klein would make their<br />
mark at the event, going up against the<br />
kings of French fashion at the time — Yves<br />
Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel<br />
Ungaro, Marc Bohan, and Hubert de<br />
Givenchy. Literal royalty was in the crowd.<br />
The Philly girl turned princess, Grace of<br />
Monaco was in attendance. And Cleveland,<br />
who walked the show, would sit next to<br />
the Duchess of Windsor Wallis Simpson,<br />
who also hailed from Pennsylvania. “I was<br />
hanging out with the Duchess of Windsor,”<br />
Cleveland writes about the moment. “She<br />
was so cute and little and so historic. And I<br />
thought, this is something!”<br />
What was also something was the<br />
makeup of the American fashion brigade.<br />
Burrows would break the color line as the<br />
sole Black fashion designer present, and<br />
11 Black American models, unprecedented<br />
at the time, would conquer the runway.<br />
While the French designers built elaborate<br />
sets and played classical music during their<br />
presentation, the American designers used<br />
simple sets out of necessity, played contemporary<br />
music, and had spirited models<br />
who stole the show. Bethann Hardison,<br />
who modeled at the event, spoke about the<br />
groundbreaking moment in an interview<br />
with The Cut, “We came out clean, and it was<br />
rustic and raw… they’d never seen models<br />
GET THE BOOK<br />
The Battle of Versailles: The Fashion Showdown of<br />
1973, by Mark Bozek.<br />
Published by Rizzoli International Publications Inc.<br />
walk [in time] to music. There was a whole<br />
spirit, the way the girls sashayed, the colors,<br />
the way one designer flowed in and out of<br />
the other. It was a very cohesive production.<br />
It was like a small, tiny musical.”<br />
Black history was being made moment<br />
by moment. Josephine Baker sang at the<br />
battle. “As Black American girls, our idol<br />
was Josephine Baker. She was the girl who<br />
got away from slavery, went to Europe,<br />
and became the biggest star in the world,”<br />
Cleveland reported to AnOther. Hardison<br />
would also recognize how historic the<br />
moment was as a Black American woman.<br />
She recalls the weight of that legendary<br />
moment when she walked in a yellow<br />
silk dress by Burrows and brought the<br />
audience to their feet. “Every step I took,<br />
I was talking to that audience. I was very<br />
issue eighteen 43
46 aphrochic
Fashion<br />
aware of them. It was a fierceness because<br />
I was talking to them, I was defying them,”<br />
Hardison stated in an interview with The<br />
Cut. “It was an intention; it was like acting.<br />
My modeling — because I had been a child<br />
tap dancer — was much more stage-driven.<br />
When I stopped and decided to throw<br />
down the train, I stared at the audience for<br />
so long that they then started to stamp their<br />
feet. And the longer they stamped their<br />
feet, they started to scream, ‘Bravo, bravo!’<br />
And then their programs — like Indianapolis<br />
— started going up in the air and that’s<br />
when you knew. You could see Halston and<br />
Liza running down the side of the stage,<br />
and they were screaming, ‘Stephen, come<br />
here!’ And then all of a sudden you saw Oscar<br />
[de la Renta], and everyone was holding<br />
hands. And that to me was the most significant<br />
moment, after everybody not feeling<br />
together and not feeling equal, to watch<br />
them all bracing themselves together, oh my<br />
God. That moment for me, it just told me so<br />
much. You know, every time I tell that story<br />
I get emotional, because it was such an extraordinary<br />
moment. I knew I nailed it.”<br />
The Battle of Versailles marked the<br />
moment the walls came tumbling down in<br />
fashion. It marked the ascendance of readto-wear<br />
over couture. Stephen Burrows<br />
would emerge as a pioneer of American<br />
fashion. And 11 Black models would own the<br />
night, giving fashion some much-needed<br />
soul. AC<br />
“Every step I took,<br />
I was talking to<br />
that audience... It<br />
was a fierceness<br />
because I was<br />
talking to them. I<br />
was defying them.”<br />
- Bethann Hardison<br />
issue eighteen 47
48 aphrochic<br />
A S
tudy in Neutrals<br />
issue eighteen 49
Interior Design<br />
Inside Hayet Rida’s Sophisticated Chicago Home<br />
“What I love most about my home is how calming it is<br />
and that it’s a beautiful visual story. It feels like walking<br />
through a museum,” says Hayet Rida, owner of KHOI, a<br />
Chicago boutique that sells stunning jewelry that Hayet<br />
designs. In 2020, the busy Chicagoan was searching for a<br />
new place to call home. She found what she was looking for<br />
in a 1300-square-foot, two-bedroom corner apartment. A<br />
clean slate, with floor-to-ceiling windows that filled it with<br />
an abundance of light, the space was move-in ready, and<br />
perfect for Hayet to complete with her own personal style,<br />
which includes original art and handcrafted artisan details.<br />
Words by Jeanine Hays and Bryan Mason<br />
Photos by Aimee Mazzenga<br />
50 aphrochic
Interior Design
Interior Design<br />
A consummate creative who knows a<br />
thing or two about design as the daughter<br />
of an interior designer, Hayet’s home is the<br />
perfect example of modern classic style and<br />
getting the most out of neutrals. It all starts<br />
with the deep contrast between the apartment’s<br />
dark stained floors and crisp white<br />
walls, with a mix of neutral shades, earth<br />
tones and metallics. Serenity is what Hayet<br />
was working for when she designed the<br />
space. And serenity is the reaction most<br />
people have when they experience it. The<br />
colors are calm, the artwork is engaging, and<br />
the layout makes full use of the excellent light.<br />
Throughout the space, art is on display.<br />
“It was important to me that I had big<br />
feminine energy,” Hayet says of her art collection.<br />
The striking photo of an African<br />
woman above the credenza in her living<br />
room is a favorite. Like the rest of the home,<br />
the artwork that punctuates the decor is<br />
simple but impactful. “The artwork I use at<br />
home is bold,” she reflects. “It tells a story<br />
each time and I love that they are big conversation<br />
pieces.”<br />
Hayet describes her style as Afrocentric,<br />
a story that is clearly told in her artwork.<br />
“There are always themes from my home<br />
country of Ghana,” she explains. “I also love<br />
to add pieces I have curated from travel.”<br />
The combination of small statues, photography<br />
and woven baskets follows throughout<br />
the home, creating a story that is told from<br />
room to room. In the living room, a creamy<br />
sofa and ottoman and off-white pillows add<br />
to the neutral statement, while a blend of<br />
numerous textures in the form of rugs and<br />
throws creates depth in the space.<br />
Traversing from the living area to<br />
the bedroom, you will see that the home’s<br />
hallway has been turned into an art gallery.<br />
Hayet remembers how deliberate she was<br />
in selecting each item. “I knew once I picked<br />
the right piece it would set the tone for the<br />
room,” she says. Across from the living<br />
area, the kitchen is the heart of this home.<br />
Eschewing a traditional dining space, Hayet<br />
instead opted for an intimate setup for three<br />
at the bar separating her living room and<br />
kitchen area. With the home so well prepared<br />
when she arrived, there wasn’t much to<br />
do by way of renovation. “The easiest part<br />
was switching out the light fixtures and the<br />
knobs on all cabinets,” she remembers.<br />
In her office, design becomes a way to<br />
combat the stress of having so much on her<br />
plate with a thriving brand and boutique.<br />
Hayet worked to extend the feel of her living<br />
space into her work space. “My living room<br />
makes me feel the calmest,” she confesses,<br />
“but I’m working on making my office just as<br />
calm.”<br />
“I love how curated the whole story is,”<br />
Hayet says of her home. Artist, designer,<br />
brand owner, Hayet’s home does feel like a<br />
museum. One filled with stunning details<br />
that you’d love to come back and explore<br />
again and again. AC<br />
54 aphrochic
Interior Design<br />
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issue eighteen 57
Interior Design
issue eighteen 59
Interior Design<br />
60 aphrochic
issue eighteen 61
Culture<br />
NRTVE<br />
Unveiling the Force Behind<br />
Black Creatives in The MEA<br />
In the shadows of the Middle East and Africa’s (MEA)<br />
creative landscapes, a quiet revolution is unfolding.<br />
It doesn’t shout; it doesn’t seek the limelight, but its<br />
impact is undeniable. NRTVE, a collective founded by<br />
the enigmatic Nini Oki, is emerging as a powerful force,<br />
dedicated to connecting, documenting, spotlighting, and<br />
empowering Black creatives across the region. Through<br />
their work, highlighted on their Instagram account<br />
@our.nrtve, NRTVE is steadily growing as a beacon for<br />
those who have long been overlooked.<br />
Interview by Tala Al Arfaj<br />
Photos furnished by NRTVE<br />
62 aphrochic
issue eighteen 63
64 aphrochic
Culture<br />
Reshaping the Narrative for Black Creatives<br />
in the MEA<br />
The MEA region is a vast and diverse area<br />
that encompasses countries from the Arabian<br />
Peninsula, the Levant, <strong>No</strong>rth Africa, Sub-Saharan<br />
Africa, and beyond. The region is home<br />
to a rich tapestry of cultures, languages, and<br />
histories, with significant economic, social,<br />
and political diversity. However, despite its<br />
vibrant cultural landscape, the MEA region<br />
has often been overlooked in global creative<br />
industries, particularly in terms of representation<br />
for Black creatives.<br />
Born and raised in Nigeria, Nini was surrounded<br />
by a rich tapestry of cultural expressions<br />
and creative energy. However, upon<br />
moving to Dubai she encountered a different<br />
reality. "I was attending various events and<br />
noticed the glaring underrepresentation<br />
of Black creatives," she recalls. "It was frustrating<br />
because I knew there were so many<br />
talented Black individuals, yet they weren’t<br />
being acknowledged or celebrated."<br />
This disconnect sparked a determination<br />
in her to create a space where Black<br />
creatives could not only thrive but be seen and<br />
heard. "I realized the power of representation<br />
and the need for platforms that genuinely<br />
support and celebrate Black creatives,” she<br />
says. The name "NRTVE" reflects this mission<br />
perfectly — born out of a need to change<br />
the narrative and take control of how Black<br />
creatives are represented in the MEA region.<br />
For Nini, it’s been about more than creating a<br />
platform, it’s about reclaiming and reshaping<br />
the narrative for Black creatives. "We're going<br />
to connect with each other and empower each<br />
other. For too long, our stories have been told<br />
by others. NRTVE is about taking control of<br />
our own narrative, on our own terms."<br />
Building a Platform for Change<br />
NRTVE's initial efforts focused on organizing<br />
events to discover and showcase<br />
Black photographers, videographers, models,<br />
stylists, and artists. These events served as a<br />
catalyst for bringing together a diverse array<br />
of talents, each with their unique stories<br />
and contributions. Over time, the collective<br />
expanded its scope to include the creation of<br />
original content and documentation of the<br />
work of their creative community. For Nini,<br />
archival documentation is crucial, especially<br />
as NRTVE is pioneering in a region where<br />
such efforts are relatively new.<br />
One of NRTVE’s standout initiatives<br />
is their comprehensive directory of Black<br />
female creatives in the MEA region. This<br />
directory serves as a vital resource for connecting<br />
talent with opportunities, allowing<br />
people to find and collaborate with creatives<br />
who might otherwise be overlooked. "We<br />
started the directory because we needed a<br />
way to make our community visible," Nini<br />
explains. "It’s not just about listing names; it’s<br />
about creating a living, breathing resource<br />
that celebrates and elevates our talents."<br />
Initially focused on Black female<br />
creatives, the directory reflects Nini’s belief<br />
that Black women face unique challenges. "As<br />
a Black woman, you deal with multiple layers<br />
of marginalization. You’re Black and you’re<br />
female. That’s why I felt it was so important<br />
to start with Black female creatives," Nini<br />
shares. However, as NRTVE has grown, so<br />
has its scope. "We’ve recently expanded the<br />
directory to include Black male creatives<br />
as well. It’s been great to see how much they<br />
want to be part of this community," Nini adds.<br />
The directory, accessible on their website, is<br />
a testament to NRTVE’s commitment to visibility<br />
and empowerment, offering a platform<br />
where talents can shine and be discovered by<br />
those who value diversity and inclusion.<br />
But building and sustaining this<br />
platform has not been without its challenges.<br />
One of the most significant obstacles<br />
NRTVE faces is funding. The collective has<br />
been largely self-funded, limiting the scale<br />
and speed of their projects. Despite these<br />
financial constraints, Nini remains optimistic<br />
and is committed to expanding NRTVE's reach<br />
beyond Dubai and the UAE. "It's slow, but it's<br />
steady progress," she notes, emphasizing<br />
the importance of perseverance and vision.<br />
"There are days when it feels overwhelming,<br />
but I remind myself why I started this. We’re<br />
creating something bigger than ourselves."<br />
Changing Perceptions and Promoting<br />
Transparency<br />
Despite the hurdles, NRTVE has made<br />
notable strides in gaining recognition within<br />
both the Black and broader creative communities<br />
in Dubai. One of the proudest moments<br />
for Nini was when Cosmopolitan reached<br />
out to collaborate for Black History Month.<br />
"It was a bittersweet moment," she reflects.<br />
"On one hand, it was great to be recognized,<br />
but on the other, I knew that our community<br />
deserved attention all year round — not just in<br />
February." While the recognition itself was a<br />
testament to NRTVE's growing influence, Nini<br />
declined the offer because the publication’s<br />
engagement with the Black community was<br />
limited to just Black History Month, leaving<br />
the rest of the year largely unacknowledged.<br />
For Nini, one of the most critical<br />
aspects of NRTVE’s mission is changing how<br />
society perceives Black people, particularly<br />
in the creative industry. "There’s been this<br />
long-standing narrative that Black people<br />
are always competing against each other,<br />
and it’s something that’s been imposed on<br />
us," she explains. "But I knew that wasn’t true.<br />
We’re stronger together, and NRTVE is about<br />
showing that solidarity and strength."<br />
NRTVE aims to dismantle stereotypes<br />
and create a new narrative where Black<br />
creatives are seen as valuable, talented, and<br />
indispensable members of the community.<br />
"We’re not here to fit into someone else’s<br />
mold," Nini says. "We’re here to break the mold<br />
and create a space where our talents are not<br />
just recognized, but celebrated."<br />
Transparency within the community<br />
is also a core value for Nini and NRTVE. She<br />
believes that being open about the challengissue<br />
eighteen 65
Culture<br />
66 aphrochic
issue eighteen 67
Culture<br />
es and successes of the collective is crucial for building<br />
trust and solidarity among members. "We’re very open<br />
about our journey — the good, the bad, and the ugly," Nini<br />
shares. "It’s important for us to be transparent because<br />
that’s how we build real connections. When we’re honest<br />
about our struggles, it allows others to see that they’re<br />
not alone. It’s not just about the glossy surface; it’s about<br />
the reality of what it takes to create change."<br />
This commitment to transparency is reflected in<br />
how NRTVE operates and interacts with the community.<br />
By being upfront about the challenges they face, Nini<br />
hopes to encourage others to join the movement, understanding<br />
that progress is made through collective<br />
effort and shared experiences. "We want people to know<br />
that this isn’t easy," she says. "But it’s worth it. And we’re<br />
in it together."<br />
A particularly heartwarming success story<br />
involved a photoshoot with a member's parents. "We had<br />
a 70-year-old participant who brought so much energy<br />
and regal presence to the shoot — it was unforgettable,"<br />
Nini shares. "Moments like that remind me of why<br />
we do what we do. It’s about celebrating our history, our<br />
stories, and our resilience."<br />
Nini is acutely aware that navigating the complexities<br />
of building and sustaining a movement like NRTVE<br />
requires more than passion and resources — it also<br />
requires wisdom and experience. This is why she places<br />
a high value on guidance and mentorship from individuals<br />
and organizations who have successfully walked<br />
similar paths. "There's so much to learn, and we're eager<br />
to learn it," Nini admits. Mentorship for Nini is not just<br />
about receiving advice, it's about forming partnerships<br />
that can help NRTVE navigate challenges, avoid<br />
common pitfalls, and make strategic decisions that align<br />
with their long-term vision. Her hope is to work with experienced<br />
mentors who can provide insights into everything<br />
from fundraising strategies and brand development,<br />
to community engagement and sustainable<br />
growth. This kind of support is invaluable, particularly<br />
as NRTVE seeks to expand its impact across a region as<br />
diverse and complex as the MEA.<br />
"We’re in this for the long haul," she says with determination.<br />
"The more support we get, the more we<br />
can do — and we’re committed to making sure that what<br />
we’re building today will have a lasting impact for generations<br />
to come."<br />
The Power of External Support: Funding and Mentorship<br />
The organization has been engaged in fundraising<br />
efforts, but "we’ve been informed that it is illegal in the<br />
UAE, so unfortunately, we are unable to engage in that,<br />
which means that NRTVE has remained self-funded,"<br />
Nini shares. However, they are exploring the possibility<br />
of future partnerships with brands and organizations to<br />
sustain and expand their work across the region.<br />
With adequate financial backing, Nini believes<br />
that the brand could host larger events, expand their<br />
directory of talents, and create more in-depth documentation<br />
of the stories and contributions of Black<br />
creatives in the region. Nini envisions a future where<br />
NRTVE can operate with the freedom to explore<br />
ambitious projects that further elevate the profiles of<br />
the creatives they represent, without being held back by<br />
financial constraints. "The more support we receive, the<br />
more we can give back to our community," she says. "It’s<br />
about creating a ripple effect that benefits everyone."<br />
But NRTVE's needs go beyond just funding.<br />
Looking Ahead: A Vision for the Future<br />
Nini aims to create a lasting impact, ensuring<br />
that the collective's efforts continue to benefit Black<br />
creatives long after her direct involvement. "NRTVE is an<br />
independent institution on its own," she asserts. "I want<br />
NRTVE to be a beacon for Black creatives across the<br />
region," she shares. "A place where they know they will<br />
be seen, heard, and celebrated."<br />
As NRTVE looks to the future, the collective<br />
invites individuals and organizations to join them in<br />
their mission. Whether through funding, mentorship,<br />
or collaboration, Nini lets people know that there are<br />
numerous ways to support NRTVE and help amplify the<br />
voices of Black creatives in the MEA region. "Seeing the<br />
joy and pride in the faces of the creatives we work with is<br />
what keeps me going," Nini shares. "It’s a reminder that<br />
we’re on the right path, and that what we’re doing truly<br />
matters."<br />
To learn more about NRTVE follow them on social<br />
media @our.nrtve. AC<br />
68 aphrochic
issue eighteen 69
Food<br />
A Delicious<br />
Holiday Treat<br />
Masa is one of the great scientific and mathematical<br />
gifts of ancient Mexico. The act of processing dried<br />
corn kernels and creating a chemical lime solution<br />
to make something so versatile from corn amazes<br />
me endlessly. This masa dough gives another level of<br />
flavor complexity and subtle sweetness to the classic<br />
glazed doughnut. I first started working on this<br />
recipe on the same day that I was getting interviewed<br />
by cookbook author Julia Turshen for Food & Wine. I<br />
was a big fan of Julia’s before we met and she has been<br />
a great supporter of mine and countless others. When<br />
the interview was over, we started chatting about<br />
things we’d made recently and I talked about these<br />
doughnuts. Her response was an enthusiastic “yum!”<br />
and just hearing that response was so encouraging to<br />
me. Sometimes, just a small word of cheer goes a long<br />
way. You can save the leftover frying oil for another<br />
frying project. It should not need to be strained<br />
because these doughnuts hold together during the<br />
frying process. To store, keep in a dark, cool area<br />
with an airtight lid for one month, or until it starts<br />
to smell off.<br />
GET THE BOOK<br />
Reprinted with permission from Flavor+Us: Cooking for<br />
Everyone by Rahanna Bisseret Martinez © 2023.<br />
Photographs by Ed Anderson © 2023.<br />
Illustrations by Marianna Fiero © 2023. Published by Ten<br />
Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House<br />
Words by Rahanna Bisseret Martinez<br />
70 aphrochic
Food<br />
Masa Doughnuts with Earl Grey Glaze<br />
DOUGHNUTS<br />
Makes 4 doughnuts<br />
2 ⁄3 cup whole milk<br />
1 ⁄4 cup unsalted butter<br />
2 1 ⁄4 teaspoons (1 ⁄4-ounce envelope)<br />
active dry yeast<br />
2 1 ⁄4 cups all-purpose flour<br />
1 ⁄2 cup masa harina<br />
1 ⁄4 cup natural cane sugar<br />
1 ⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt<br />
1 egg<br />
2 quarts neutral cooking oil<br />
GLAZE<br />
1 ⁄2 cup whole milk<br />
2 teaspoons loose-leaf Earl Grey tea (or 2 tea bags)<br />
1 teaspoon vanilla extract<br />
2 1 ⁄4 cups confectioners’ sugar<br />
To make the doughnuts: In a saucepan, combine the milk and butter and heat until lukewarm (90°F). Don’t worry about the<br />
butter melting all the way yet. Transfer to a small bowl, add the yeast, gently stir, and let sit for 5 minutes, until foamy.<br />
In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl, combine the flour, masa, cane sugar, and salt.<br />
Mix at the lowest speed or by hand until combined. Slowly add the milk-yeast mixture and mix, but not thoroughly. Beat<br />
the egg in a small bowl, then slowly add it to the dough, and mix again until combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl,<br />
then continue mixing on medium speed until the dough just comes together but isn’t smooth yet, about 4 minutes. Place the<br />
dough onto an oiled cutting board and knead for 3 to 5 minutes, until smooth.<br />
Lightly oil a mixing bowl and place the dough in it. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel, and let the<br />
dough rise in a warm place for 1 to 1 1⁄2 hours, until roughly doubled in size. Dust a cutting board with flour and pour out the<br />
dough. Roll out the dough with a rolling pin until it’s 1⁄2-inch thick. Using a 3- or 4-inch ring mold, cut out four circles. Using<br />
a small 1-inch ring mold, cut out doughnut holes from the circles and the remaining dough. If you don’t have ring molds, a<br />
large-mouthed glass jar and a piping tip will do just fine. You could even roll out the excess dough into a rope and cut 1-inch<br />
pieces to make more holes. Either way, space the doughnuts out on a baking sheet, cover, and let rise for 30 minutes.<br />
While your dough is doing its final rise, make the glaze. In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, add the milk and Earl<br />
Grey tea. (If you’re using tea bags, cut them open and empty out the leaves into the milk.) As soon as the milk comes to a<br />
simmer, cover the pan and take it off the heat. Let infuse for 20 minutes. Add the vanilla. Place the confectioners’ sugar in<br />
a medium bowl and place a fine-mesh sieve on top. Pour the milk mixture through the sieve into the confectioners’ sugar.<br />
Whisk until completely combined and set aside.<br />
Place a cooling rack on top of a baking sheet (or just set out a baking sheet). Fill a large saucepan with the oil and heat on medium-high<br />
until it reaches 315°F on an instant-read thermometer. Working in batches, fry the doughnuts for 3 minutes on<br />
each side and the holes for 1 minute on each side, turning with a slotted metal spoon, until golden brown. Don’t crowd the<br />
pot and keep an eye on the temperature, adjusting the heat as needed to maintain 315°F.<br />
When the doughnuts are done, place them on the cooling rack (or baking sheet). Let cool slightly. Spoon some glaze over<br />
each doughnut and hole and serve. I find these doughnuts are best the same day they’re cooked. But they will last until the<br />
next day, especially if warmed.<br />
72 aphrochic
Entertaining<br />
The Art of<br />
Being Extra<br />
Entertaining Tips with Brittney Ifemembi of Ifsthetic<br />
Brittney Ifemembi is the founder and creative director of Ifsthetic, a<br />
luxury home decor brand that offers homewares infused with Nigerian<br />
cultural heritage. For Brittney, who lives in Los Angeles, “Ifsthetic is<br />
the art of being extra,” an unabashed embrace of fun, fresh, maximalist<br />
design. Formerly working in the fashion industry for Brandon Maxwell,<br />
Brittney has a clear eye for luxury, designing artisan pieces for the home<br />
that are sure to make a statement.<br />
Interview by Jeanine Hays and Bryan Mason<br />
Photos courtesy of Ifsthetic<br />
74 aphrochic
Brittney Ifemembi, Founder and<br />
Creative Director of Ifsthetic
Entertaining<br />
We spoke with this lover of maximalism about her<br />
brand, her top 5 songs for the perfect holiday gathering, and<br />
how Ifsthetic can help you bring meaning and artisanship to<br />
your holiday entertaining this season.<br />
<strong>AphroChic</strong>: What does it mean to live Ifsthetically?<br />
Brittney Ifemembi: Living Ifsthetically means<br />
embracing boldness and creativity within the comfort of<br />
your own home, allowing yourself to express your most<br />
luxurious and visually vibrant self. It’s about discovering<br />
luxury in the small moments — a joyful pillow tossed on<br />
the couch, a candle in an artfully designed vessel, or lounge<br />
slippers that perfectly complement the vibe of your space.<br />
It’s about curating a home that reflects not just your style,<br />
but your desire to find beauty in the everyday.<br />
AC: How does your Nigerian American heritage help guide<br />
the focus of your brand and the creative direction of your<br />
artisan pieces?<br />
BI: Nigerian culture is bold, vibrant, and filled with<br />
stories that deserve to be celebrated. I draw inspiration<br />
from many facets of my life — the fabrics my mother and<br />
grandmother wore, the music we listened to, and even<br />
the way we prepare our food. It’s a culture that embraces<br />
boldness in every aspect of life, and I aim to infuse that<br />
same energy and spirit into my designs. Growing up in the<br />
U.S. has also shaped my perspective. My interaction with<br />
Nigerian elements, like fabrics, may differ from someone<br />
raised in Nigeria, or even in another country like Sweden.<br />
This blend of cultural influences allows me to bring a<br />
fresh, nuanced approach to my design. I often reference<br />
the sultry and cool elements of '70s glam and decor in my<br />
work, merging those nostalgic vibes with the richness of my<br />
Nigerian roots.<br />
AC: Design was, at first, a hobby for you while you pursued<br />
an education in economics. When did you first start creating,<br />
and what were some of your creative outlets?<br />
BI: As a kid, I would spend hours with my coloring<br />
books, carefully layering my crayons to create soft gradients.<br />
I didn’t want my pages to feel flat or one-dimensional — I<br />
craved depth, even back then. My mom picked up on how<br />
meticulous I was and decided to enroll me in art classes.<br />
Every Saturday, I’d dive into painting, and it quickly became<br />
my creative outlet, a part of me I carried into adulthood. It<br />
wasn’t until a college entrepreneurship retreat in Costa Rica<br />
that I realized art and design could be more than a hobby. I<br />
understood that I didn’t have to follow the traditional path to<br />
success that we’re so often told to take. Life’s too short not<br />
to explore what truly brings you joy. So, after college, I made<br />
a bold decision to pack up and move to New York to study<br />
Strategic Design and Management at Parsons. That decision<br />
changed everything. While working at Brandon Maxwell,<br />
I learned something that forever reframed the way I see<br />
design. It’s not just about making things beautiful; it’s about<br />
creating with purpose. Design can blend art and functionality<br />
in ways that enhance people’s lives. In my work, I strive<br />
to bring that magic to life, where products aren’t just objects<br />
but pieces of art that serve to bring the customer moments<br />
of joy in their daily lives.<br />
AC: Which pieces from Ifsthetic can help someone elevate<br />
their hosting to create some magic this holiday season?<br />
BI: It’s all about elevating the hosting experience. Our<br />
candle holders and coaster sets are standout statement<br />
pieces designed to elevate any dining or coffee table. They<br />
really allow your dining table to look photo-ready with less<br />
hassle. Also, what makes these designs truly special is their<br />
versatility. Our candle holders aren’t just for candlesticks<br />
— I love styling them as sculptures and placing mini glass<br />
vases with sculptural floral buds next to them. This creates<br />
layered, dynamic arrangements highlighting your table<br />
for any occasion or event. Our coaster set is designed with<br />
beauty and function in mind. It’s crafted to fit a wine bottle,<br />
turning the bottle itself into a centerpiece and reducing the<br />
clutter on the table. And our Pekak slippers are a cozy musthave.<br />
They pair comfort and chic so that you’re always<br />
ready for when family comes to visit or if you’re running<br />
to the store for holiday shopping. They can even be cute<br />
for matching family holiday shoots. And I would be remiss<br />
if I didn’t mention the vibrant and cozy Wugo pillows. They<br />
are great for cuddling on the couch to watch your favorite<br />
holiday movies with loved ones.<br />
AC: Are there any specific Nigerian cultural references, such<br />
as color, symbols, or weaving included in your products?<br />
BI: Nigerian culture is intricately woven throughout<br />
the product line. A major source of inspiration comes from<br />
my grandmother’s fabric archive, a treasured collection of<br />
textiles from the '60s and '70s. I often reference these fabrics,<br />
and they even make cameos in our photoshoots. She is also<br />
the muse behind the Wugo pillow — a design that captures<br />
her bold outfits, joy, and essence. The star of this piece is<br />
Aso Oke, a traditional Nigerian fabric often used for special<br />
occasions like weddings, where custom outfits and head<br />
wraps are made. I’ve incorporated Aso Oke not only into<br />
our pillows but also into our lounge slippers, celebrating its<br />
richness in everyday life. Another piece, the Aria Sculptures,<br />
is a modern interpretation of an Igbo instrument called<br />
Oghene. I’ve always been captivated by its elegant form and<br />
76 aphrochic
Entertaining<br />
78 aphrochic
wanted to reimagine this deeply cultural object as something that could<br />
live in the home, transforming it into a sculptural piece that holds both<br />
aesthetic and cultural significance.<br />
AC: What was the inspiration for your tabletop collection?<br />
BI: While I was in Nigeria, I was inspired by the arrival music of<br />
masquerades. Rhythmic drums are foundational to music in these<br />
performances. If you look closely at our tabletop collection, you’ll see<br />
how the shapes resemble drums, paying homage to that inspiration.<br />
Each piece is hand-carved from Acacia wood by our talented artisans,<br />
making them as meaningful as they are beautiful.<br />
AC: What will be on your menu for holiday entertaining this year?<br />
BI: For starters, a luscious grazing table overflowing with assorted<br />
fruit, meat, and cheese. Main course: Peri Peri Roasted Lamb and my<br />
mom's signature Goat Stew. Sides: Jollof Rice (of course!), plantains,<br />
and a medley of fire-roasted veggies. Dessert: Chin Chin ( Nigerian<br />
fried cookie), and sticky toffee pudding with ice cream.<br />
AC: We love your At Home With Ifsthetic playlists. What are your top 5<br />
songs for the perfect holiday playlist?<br />
BI: Ooooh, this is hard! I am an R&B girlie, so my Top 5 would be:<br />
#1 Mariah Carey, All I Want for Christmas<br />
#2 Destiny’s Child, 8 Days of Christmas<br />
#3 Jhene Aiko, Wrap Me Up<br />
#4 Boyz II Men and Justin Bieber, Fa La La La<br />
#5 TLC, Sleigh Ride<br />
AC: Ultimately, what do you hope will be the cultural impact of Ifsthetic?<br />
BI: My vision for Ifsthetic is to become the go-to destination for<br />
fun, unique, and boldly vibrant home decor that empowers people<br />
to infuse their spaces with personality. In a world dominated by<br />
mass-produced, low-quality items, craftsmanship stands out as the<br />
pinnacle of luxury. It’s time to shift the focus back to quality, artisanal<br />
creations. With Ifsthetic, the goal is to celebrate and support skilled<br />
craftsmanship, not only from Nigeria but from talented artisans around<br />
the world.<br />
Discover pieces for entertaining at Ifsthetic. AC<br />
issue eighteen 79
Entertaining
Entertaining<br />
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issue eighteen 85
Exploring Portugal<br />
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issue eighteen 87
Travel<br />
Where History Leaves Its Mark<br />
Portugal is a place where history speaks. It whispers down<br />
its streets, is evident in its language, can be tasted in the<br />
food, and viewed through the country’s stunning architecture.<br />
The coastal nation is home to a diverse history<br />
that has left its mark. Some of the earliest inhabitants of<br />
the coastal nation were the Phoenicians, ancient maritime<br />
traders throughout the region who were skilled in wood,<br />
ivory, and metalworking, as well as textile production.<br />
From 205 BCE to 409 CE, Rome dominated the area, with<br />
Julius Caesar naming Lisbon a Roman municipality under<br />
the name Felicitas Julia. Hints of the Roman history still<br />
exist in inscribed stones in the city today.<br />
Words by Jeanine Hays<br />
Photos reprinted with permission from Patterns of Portugal, by Christine<br />
Chitnis, copyright © 2024. Published by Clarkson Potter, a division of<br />
Penguin Random House, LLC.<br />
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issue eighteen 89
Travel<br />
90 aphrochic
The Visigoths would conquer the Roman Empire,<br />
and reign in the region from the 5th to 8th centuries,<br />
until they were defeated by the Umayyad Caliphate,<br />
— a Muslim dynasty established after the death of the<br />
prophet Muhammad. From the 8th to 13th centuries, the<br />
small nation, just north of Morocco through the straight<br />
of Gibraltar and west of Spain, was home to the Moors,<br />
who called the country al-Andalus, the Arabic name<br />
for the Iberian Peninsula. Ruling for over 400 years,<br />
the Moors would leave an indelible mark on the nation,<br />
creating centers of trade, commerce and education,<br />
turning al-Andalus into a hub of intellectual and artistic<br />
achievement and discovery, and leaving a defining mark<br />
on the nation’s architecture and design.<br />
In the book Patterns of Portugal by Christine<br />
Chitnis, we get to see the Moorish influence up close<br />
through imagery Chitnis created over years of traveling<br />
to the region. We see the beautiful architecture in the<br />
Algarve region. Moorish design included majestic<br />
towers, marketplaces, and homes with whitewashed<br />
exteriors and blue accents that still stand today. Doors<br />
with the “hand of Fatima” draw the eye. The door<br />
knockers feature five fingers that Chitnis teaches us<br />
“allude to the five pillars of Islam and is thought to ward<br />
off the evil eye.”<br />
As well as stunning gardens and vegetation, the<br />
Moors developed advanced agricultural techniques in<br />
the region, creating irrigation systems that resulted<br />
in lush gardens and diverse fruits and vegetables. The<br />
Moors developed advanced agricultural techniques in<br />
the region, creating irrigation systems that resulted in<br />
lush gardens and diverse fruits and vegetables, introducing<br />
new crops to the region such as rice, pomegranates,<br />
and sugarcane that are still part of the country’s<br />
rich landscape. And you will not be able to miss the<br />
stunning ceramic tiles that the Moors brought to the<br />
region. Known as azulejos, they adorn buildings with<br />
intricate, eye-catching geometric patterns that make<br />
every building’s exterior a work of art.<br />
The reign of the Moors would end in the 13th<br />
century. And in the 15th century, under Catholic rule,<br />
Portugal would found the European and transatlantic<br />
slave trades. In 1444, the Portuguese transported<br />
the first enslaved Africans to Europe. And in 1526,<br />
Portugal brought the first enslaved people to the<br />
Americas, landing them in Brazil. A walk among the<br />
issue eighteen 91
Travel
Travel<br />
streets of Lisbon, and you’ll notice the street names were all former<br />
colonies: Rua de Angola, Rua de Moçambique, Rua da Guiné, Rua de<br />
Cabo Verde. It’s a history that Portugal is reckoning with, erecting<br />
more than 20 historical street markers that honor the contributions<br />
of African peoples and their descendants. As journalist Nana-Ama<br />
Danquah relates in an article for National Geographic about how Black<br />
travelers are reclaiming Lisbon, “Travelers can find the plaques near<br />
the riverside Terreiro do Paço, where enslaved people disembarked<br />
from the ships that carried them there from Africa, or in places such<br />
as Rossio Square, which for centuries has been a traditional gathering<br />
place for Black people in Lisbon. It is also the location of Igreja de São<br />
Domingos, the church where enslaved Africans were taken for their<br />
requisite baptism.”<br />
Monuments are also being unveiled in the country to honor the<br />
enslaved. A bust of Paulino Jose da Conceiçao, a formerly enslaved<br />
African who emigrated from Brazil to Portugal in <strong>18</strong>32 and who became<br />
a major social justice advocate in the country, sits in the Largo São<br />
Domingos neighborhood, home to a large African population. And in<br />
the Algarve region, in the coastal city of Lagos, sits the Mercado de<br />
Escravos, a museum dedicated to the history of slavery.<br />
We suggest the following places, communities, and books to learn<br />
more about Portugal's Black history:<br />
Explore the Country’s Moorish Architecture<br />
Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros): Located in Sintra, this<br />
is one of the most iconic Moorish sites in Portugal. It was built by the<br />
Moors in the 8th and 9th centuries and offers a panoramic view of the<br />
Sintra region.<br />
Castle of Silves (Castelo de Silves): This is another important<br />
Moorish site located in the Algarve region. It is one of the best-preserved<br />
Moorish fortifications in Portugal.<br />
São Jorge Castle (Castelo de São Jorge): Although it has undergone<br />
several modifications over the years, the origins of this castle in Lisbon<br />
date back to the Moorish period.<br />
Discover Community<br />
Black In Portugal: An organization that provides space for Black<br />
expats to connect, ask questions, and share information.<br />
Black-Owned Lisbon Guide: A guide from Viator that highlights<br />
Black-owned businesses in Lisbon.<br />
African Lisbon Tour: A Black-guided tour of Lisbon that explores<br />
the city's Black history.<br />
Read About the History<br />
Patterns of Portugal by Christine Chitnis<br />
Golden Age of the Moor by Ivan Van Sertima<br />
The History and Description of Africa: And of the <strong>No</strong>table Things<br />
Therein Contained by Leo Africanus<br />
94 aphrochic
issue eighteen 95
96 aphrochic
Sounds<br />
Past Meets Present<br />
ROBESOИ by Davóne Tines & The Truth<br />
For a long time, there’s been this feeling that nothing new is<br />
happening in Black musical culture. Hip Hop has become one of<br />
the world’s largest commodities, and unless Kendrick throws a<br />
pop out, it feels like it’s becoming harder and harder to discover<br />
something new in the art form that’s been speaking to the Black<br />
experience in America for more than half a century. R&B is on<br />
the rise again, but it’s far from its golden age in the '80s and<br />
'90s. And while we might find some songs here and there that<br />
feel truly new, it’s extremely rare to find an album these days<br />
that feels like true artistry — visionary, provocative, present,<br />
honest — until you listen to ROBESOИ by Davóne Tines & The<br />
Truth. “This album is my most personal artistic statement to<br />
date,” says Tines. “I’ve endeavored to compare and contrast my<br />
journey as an artist with that of my artistic ancestor and hero,<br />
Paul Robeson, the unparalleled singer, actor, and activist.”<br />
Words by Jeanine Hays<br />
Photos by <strong>No</strong>ah Elliott Morrison and Huy Luong<br />
issue eighteen 97
Sounds<br />
Paul Robeson was a giant, literally.<br />
A Renaissance man, born in <strong>18</strong>98 in<br />
Princeton, NJ, Robeson stood 6-feet-3-<br />
inches tall, had a booming bass-baritone<br />
voice, and was one of the most accomplished<br />
men of his time. He would<br />
become the first African American to<br />
attend Rutgers University, earned a law<br />
degree from Columbia while playing<br />
in the National Football League, could<br />
speak more than 20 languages, and<br />
would go on to be partner in a law firm<br />
as well as one of the most celebrated<br />
actors in the world. Robeson starred in<br />
over a dozen films, and several plays,<br />
bringing characters to life like Emperor<br />
Jones on Broadway, and Othello in the<br />
London theatre. It was at the height of<br />
his career, having performed all over the<br />
world, and being a staunch voice for civil<br />
rights globally, that he was blacklisted by<br />
his country.<br />
One of the first victims of McCarthyism,<br />
in 1956 Robeson was called to<br />
testify before the House Un-American<br />
Activities Committee after he refused<br />
to sign an affidavit affirming that he<br />
was not a Communist. In standing up<br />
for his rights, he was no longer considered<br />
a son of America, stripped of his<br />
passport and blacklisted. “I am not being<br />
tried for whether I am a Communist,<br />
I am being tried for fighting for the<br />
right of my people, who are still second-class<br />
citizens in this United States<br />
of America,” he would state at the time.<br />
“Standing on his beliefs of egality for<br />
the disenfranchised led to governmental<br />
and public attacks that almost ended<br />
his life,” says Tines of Robeson. “This<br />
album is the fever dream of the universal<br />
journey to battle internal and external<br />
persecution in order to find one’s self<br />
and decide what you need to say the<br />
most now that you’ve survived.”<br />
Just as James Earl Jones did when<br />
he played Robeson on Broadway in 1977,<br />
Tines and his band The Truth, made up<br />
of pianist John Bitoy and sound artist<br />
Khari Lucas, have developed a piece of<br />
art that speaks to Robeson’s humanity.<br />
Through 12 compositions, we are taken<br />
on a journey, “from the stage of Carnegie<br />
Hall to the floor of a Moscow hotel room<br />
in an attempt to understand an icon not<br />
through aspiring to his monumentality,<br />
but through connecting to his vulnerability,”<br />
reads the album’s description.<br />
Each track feels like a resurrection of<br />
things we have lost and urgently need to<br />
remember — pain, joy, resilience, what<br />
America is, and the promise of what<br />
Black America can be.<br />
Through Tine's own bass-baritone<br />
voice, we feel Robeson's anguish and<br />
our own, as opera, spirituals, gospel,<br />
rock, and R&B collide, telling a deeply<br />
personal story of perseverance and<br />
human connection. In Scandalized, a<br />
track that makes you take notice, Tines<br />
is the spirit of Robeson himself, singing<br />
in bold voice the refrain “Don't you<br />
scandalize my name,” as the tambourine<br />
keeps rhythm and an electric guitar<br />
takes you to the edge. The language is<br />
raw and current as Tines boldly declares<br />
at the song’s end “Keep my name out<br />
your mouth. Cause you gonna fuck up<br />
and you gonna find out.”<br />
<strong>No</strong>body Knows is an agitating hymn<br />
— discordant, foreboding, and angry.<br />
A remake of <strong>No</strong>body Knows The Trouble<br />
I’ve Seen that Robeson recorded with<br />
Sony in 1926, upon listening to Tines<br />
you realize this is not a song of sadness,<br />
but a warning about the troubled nation<br />
and world that we live in. Through Tines<br />
and The Truth, we can feel Robeson<br />
march that lonely, dangerous road of<br />
government oppression, suppression,<br />
and threats to one’s life and livelihood<br />
should we dare speak our truth.<br />
For The House I Live In, Tines<br />
shot a music video, set against a white<br />
backdrop, his voice and expressions<br />
all the work necessary to relay the<br />
message. “I’m deeply happy to share<br />
the song and music video for The House<br />
I Live In. It’s an updated version of a<br />
song Paul Robeson sang from the 1940s<br />
that still has a lot to say about the hopes,<br />
fears, and reckoning of America.” And<br />
Lift Every Voice is presented in a Boyz<br />
II Men-style a cappella. Tines enunciates<br />
every word in the Black national<br />
anthem so clearly. It’s a clarity that feels<br />
necessary in such chaotic times.<br />
The album ends with Old Man<br />
River. A new version of the song that<br />
Robeson famously sung in the 1936 film<br />
Show Boat. It sounds different through<br />
Tines and The Truth and you are forced<br />
to hear the song in a whole new light.<br />
<strong>No</strong> longer a tune that makes you think<br />
of old Black stereotypes or caricatures,<br />
in Tines and The Truth’s hands, you feel<br />
the tiredness that Robeson was wanting<br />
to convey to Black America and all<br />
people everywhere.<br />
The New Yorker wrote of Tines,<br />
“Davóne Tines is changing what it<br />
means to be a classical singer.” And this<br />
certainly feels true. Davóne Tines & The<br />
Truth are not only playing the classics of<br />
the past, they are connecting them to the<br />
present, showing their relevance to the<br />
Black experience today. AC<br />
98 aphrochic
issue eighteen 99
PINPOINT<br />
Artists & Artisans | Lit | Who Are You
ARTISTS & ARTISANS<br />
Calida Rawles Resuscitates Black History<br />
Lost Among The Tides<br />
Water has great significance in African American culture. Our<br />
people were born on the water. As our captive ancestors made the<br />
tortuous journey across the Atlantic, packed liked cargo in the hulls<br />
of European ships, we became something new. Among the tide,<br />
various cultures, tribes, languages, and heritages came together,<br />
fought together, survived together, discovered modes of resilience<br />
together, forming new cultures that, today, make up parts of the<br />
African Diaspora.<br />
On new shores, the ancestors carried with<br />
them religious beliefs, mythologies and stories about<br />
the water — the goddess Oshun, the water spirit<br />
Mami Wata, and the practice of spiritual renewal<br />
through baptism, to name but a few. Through resistance<br />
movements and the struggle for liberation,<br />
the water was a protector. The Gullah Islands and<br />
Maroon communities were protected by the water,<br />
keeping white aggression at bay. It was during Jim<br />
Crow — American apartheid post Reconstruction<br />
— that the water was taken from us. Black communities<br />
were denied access to beaches, Black people<br />
denied access to public pools, even taxpayer funded<br />
state and federal parks were closed off to us, denying<br />
whole generations a relationship with the water.<br />
It is this story — our relationship to the water -<br />
that is explored and revealed through Calida Rawles’<br />
first solo museum show at the Pérez Art Museum<br />
Miami (PAMM), Away With The Tides. In the exhibition,<br />
Rawles creates 10 new pieces providing a<br />
window into Overtown — a once thriving historically<br />
Black community in Miami, that lost everything,<br />
even its connection to the water, due to the<br />
violence of eminent domain, highway construction,<br />
and gentrification that displaced, destroyed, and<br />
washed away its history. For Calida, whose hyperrealistic<br />
oil paintings of Black bodies in water are often<br />
described as poetic and romantic, the work at PAMM<br />
was not just about aesthetic, but an important historical<br />
resuscitation. Among the water, the play of<br />
light and shadow, the subjects peacefully embraced<br />
by the tides, Calida’s work allows for history from<br />
Words by Jeanine Hays<br />
Photos by by Marten Elder<br />
102 aphrochic
ARTISTS & ARTISANS<br />
Requiem for My Navigator<br />
104 aphrochic
the deep to come into full view.<br />
“There’s agency in the water, and in my paintings, of<br />
people owning the water. <strong>No</strong> one is thrown in, no one looks<br />
scared; they look powerful, ethereal, and in total control of<br />
their bodies in an aquatic underworld. It’s a major element<br />
that has been taken away from Black culture because of<br />
segregation laws. We don’t even — some of us, anyway —<br />
feel that it belongs to us,” remarks Calida, in an interview<br />
with Christine Y. Kim, Britton Family Curator-at-Large<br />
of <strong>No</strong>rth American Art at Tate Modern, London, that is<br />
featured in the exhibit’s accompanying catalog.<br />
“There are so many Black communities where people<br />
won’t even go to the beach because they think that it’s for<br />
others. They don’t go to the pool or don’t know how to<br />
swim because they think that’s not for them. And that’s<br />
what disturbs me most, where the segregationist laws in<br />
our government, putting laws on a group of people, has<br />
impacted the mindset of the people themselves.”<br />
Upon arriving in Miami to begin taking photos for<br />
the works to be created, Calida dove into the history of<br />
Overtown, and was joined by Maritza M. Lacayo, Associate<br />
Curator at PAMM. As part of the catalog, Lacayo’s shares<br />
the experience of what the two unearthed together. “As a<br />
daughter of Nicaraguan immigrants, I’ve only ever known<br />
Miami to be the so-called ‘northernmost city in Latin<br />
America,’ and was never formally taught about Miami’s<br />
Black roots,” she writes. “A city firmly situated in the South,<br />
Miami is first and foremost Black. This exhibition brings<br />
forth that history that has so often been buried.”<br />
That history is of a place originally known as “Colored<br />
Town” — a neighborhood in Miami that was designated for<br />
Black people to live in upon the city’s incorporation in <strong>18</strong>96.<br />
Something that never would have happened if it were not<br />
for Miami’s Black community. Lacayo writes, “Miami was<br />
incorporated as a city on July 28, <strong>18</strong>96. Four days prior,<br />
the Miami Metropolis reported that there were 438 registered<br />
male voters in the precinct, of which <strong>18</strong>2 were Black.<br />
State law required a minimum number of registered voters<br />
to incorporate a city and in order to meet that minimum,<br />
managing supervisors who worked for Flagler were instructed<br />
by him to get their Black workers to attend the incorporation<br />
meeting. Although Black workers were manipulated<br />
into participating, Miami’s incorporation was<br />
only made possible by the Black folks who built it.”<br />
Flagler, was Henry Morrison Flagler, an oil tycoon<br />
who from <strong>18</strong>85 to 1913 built his Florida railroad empire off<br />
the backs of Black citizens. Flagler used debt peonage and<br />
convict leasing, where states would arrest Black people<br />
for so-called “crimes,” place them in jail, and then lease<br />
them to private companies. Slavery by another name, it’s<br />
no surprise to learn that the people of Colored Town were<br />
living in substandard conditions where fire and disease<br />
were constant issues. To ensure that there was no room for<br />
social uplift, Black people were not permitted to open businesses<br />
in the city, leaving forced labor and peonage the only<br />
options.<br />
D. A. Dorsey, a sharecropper’s son who worked for<br />
Flagler’s railroad company, used his hard-earned pay to<br />
buy land in the community, constructing shotgun houses<br />
for those living in Colored Town. Dorsey went on to develop<br />
more property in the area, constructing a two-story home<br />
for himself and his wife, and working to establish the first<br />
park for Black people in the community. Dorsey was also<br />
the owner of a hotel and the Negro Savings Bank. One of<br />
the first Black millionaires in the South, through Dorsey’s<br />
investments and development, Colored Town became<br />
New Day Coming<br />
issue eighteen 105
In the Light (for Stephon Clark)
ARTISTS & ARTISANS<br />
Overtown, a thriving Black community and a popular destination<br />
for artists like Count Basie, Nat King Cole, Billie<br />
Holiday, and Ella Fitzgerald. At a time when Blacks were<br />
barred from public beaches, Dorsey purchased 21 acres of<br />
land known as Fisher Island in 19<strong>18</strong> to provide a beach for<br />
the Black community as well.<br />
In 1925, Dorsey was forced to sell Fisher Island, and it<br />
would be 20 years until Black people living in Miami would<br />
be allowed access to a public beach again. On August 8, 1945,<br />
Virginia Key Beach, a segregated public beach for Black<br />
people was opened. Its very existence was an outgrowth<br />
of Jim Crow. The US Navy would not allow Black military<br />
personnel to use the white-only public beaches in the<br />
area for training, and utilized Virginia Key as a temporary<br />
beach for Black trainees. The beach became Miami’s leisure<br />
space for the Black community. The first legally-recognized<br />
bathing beach for Black people in the United States,<br />
Virginia Key Beach went on to include walking trails,<br />
cabanas, a refreshments stand, and a miniature train. The<br />
area attracted notable visitors, including Martin Luther<br />
King, Jr.<br />
But in the 1950s, all of that came to an end with the<br />
construction of I-95 and the Dolphin Expressway. “With<br />
the Overtown paintings, the underlying prompt is the<br />
history of the community broken apart from the 1960s<br />
and especially when they built I-95, which bifurcated<br />
the community. It had been a thriving neighborhood, the<br />
Harlem of the South,” says Calida. The construction, right<br />
through the heart of Overtown, led to an 80% decline in<br />
population and severe economic and social decline.<br />
To create the paintings for the exhibition, Calida went<br />
and met with residents of Overtown. She got to know the<br />
people in the community and became inspired by them.<br />
“Overtown continues to become further fragmented, but<br />
the heart and soul of the community is still there, beautiful<br />
and connected,” says Calida. Residents were photographed<br />
as a source of reference for the paintings. Calida<br />
took photos at the Theodore Gibson Park’s public pool and<br />
at the historic Virginia Key Beach. Some of the residents<br />
were not familiar with the areas or the history, having been<br />
separated from the water so long, they did not know it was<br />
theirs to experience. “Art can expand and shift that perception.<br />
I get messages all the time from people saying ‘I scuba<br />
dive because I saw your painting.’ or ‘I learned to swim<br />
because of your painting.’” In this particular moment,<br />
subverted histories were brought back to the people<br />
because of Calida’s paintings.<br />
“I’m excited and honored to create something that<br />
comes out of my time with the residents and the folks of<br />
Overtown,” says Calida. “In one of the paintings, you can<br />
see the light coming through the fragmented body. This<br />
is a time for unity, mobilization, creativity, and power. We<br />
are going to make it through, and these beautiful Black<br />
people, their culture and history are going to be honored.<br />
Even though Ron DeSantis and others in Florida are trying<br />
to censor, block, stunt, and erase it, this one community<br />
that keeps getting hit is so strong and resilient, and I want<br />
to honor that, and it does feel good to be in the fight.” AC<br />
108 aphrochic
On the Other Side of Everything<br />
issue eighteen 109
Thy Name We Praise<br />
110 aphrochic
issue eighteen 111
A Promise<br />
112 aphrochic
issue eighteen 113
114 aphrochic
LIT<br />
On The Record With George The Poet<br />
When interviewing someone for an article,<br />
it’s usually considered good form for the interviewer<br />
to leave themselves out of the story.<br />
Generally, I agree with this. After all, as the reader<br />
I rarely want to read about the interviewer's "same<br />
here's'" and "yeah, me too's." It's a delicate dance<br />
and an interviewer's bid for connection can easily<br />
cross into something resembling sycophancy. But<br />
everything about George feels like an invitation to<br />
discourse. There's that voice, of course — interchangeable,<br />
playful, subdued, and intimate, but<br />
always smooth. It begs its listener to pour another<br />
and lean in closer — we’re going to be here for a<br />
while, it seems to say. And then there's his style,<br />
listening to his Peabody-winning podcast Have<br />
you Heard George's Podcast or any of his poetry,<br />
often feels like those conversations you have with<br />
your realest friend, it's easy but they are dropping<br />
bars the entire time.<br />
So there’s plenty within George’s story that<br />
doesn’t require me to insert myself. But when in<br />
his new book Track Record George writes of his<br />
journey as a son of Ugandan immigrants, raised in<br />
London and educated in Cambridge, I can’t help<br />
but think of my parallel existence as the daughter<br />
of a Jamaican immigrant, raised in Cambridge<br />
and educated in London. It's all an education of<br />
course, and George and I would come to learn<br />
the inverse of each other's worlds all while being<br />
rooted in what it means to be Black in Britain.<br />
So when I sat down with George the Poet on<br />
a bright September morning to talk about Track<br />
Record, the first thing on my mind was his mention<br />
of the Cambridge club scene which he describes<br />
as ‘Cheese’. I can’t help but feel a little prickly and<br />
defensive of our little club scene at establishments<br />
like Fez Club, Friday nights at the Quayside<br />
Words by Tedecia Wint<br />
Photos furnished by George the Poet<br />
issue eighteen 115
LIT<br />
(shout out to DJ Special Edd), and of course The Junction,<br />
which in my day was located in a warehouse at the old<br />
cattle market and where my friends and I discovered acts<br />
like TDK, Matt Jam, Dream Team, Heartless Crew, and<br />
Pay as you Go, just to name a few. These nights weren’t<br />
just about music but an opportunity for us to connect to<br />
a larger Black identity, coming from a city that at the time<br />
was just 1.7% Black (compared to London's 13.5%). What<br />
I’m defending, of course, what I'm always defending as<br />
a Black girl raised in Cambridge, is my own Blackness. I<br />
sense a hint of a raise in his distinct brow.<br />
Let me just say off the bat that Track Record is an<br />
essential read, firstly for any lover of Hip Hop who may<br />
have grown up with her and perhaps is now taking a good<br />
hard look at their first love. Secondly, it's for anyone<br />
who has any interest in the African Diaspora and how<br />
we got to this point here and now. I can’t tell you how<br />
many recent conversations I have had about many of<br />
the issues in the current climate that I haven’t answered<br />
with, “you must read the new book by George the Poet.”<br />
A Political Science major at King's College, Cambridge<br />
and a sublime wordsmith honed in the early grime scene<br />
of the mid 2000s, George The Poet expertly takes us<br />
on a journey that charts the rise and maturation of Hip<br />
Hop while weaving us through the global socio-political<br />
sphere. What does one have to do with the other, you<br />
might ask? For Track Record, everything.<br />
Currently doing a PHD at University College<br />
London with a focus on the potential for Black music<br />
to catalyze social power and economic progress, I ask<br />
George about this summer's Olympic Games where we<br />
saw arguably two of the genre’s most influential rappers<br />
rebranded by the media as American sweethearts. I am<br />
of course talking about Snoop Dogg and Public Enemy’s<br />
Flavor Flav. Given that his thesis asks if this embrace by<br />
mainstream media is a win for the culture, it doesn’t take<br />
him long to answer, “<strong>No</strong>, it's not a win.” In fact, he makes<br />
the argument that they and the likes of Jay-Z serve as a<br />
perfect example of the co-opting of Hip Hop by the neoliberal<br />
agenda which he writes “promotes a highly individualized<br />
view of economic interests, so everything<br />
about Jay-Z’s journey (or Snoop and Flavor Flav for that<br />
matter), from the drug money he raised to the Rap skills<br />
he developed, is isolated from its social context.” The<br />
result: “[a] rapper’s success usually means nothing for<br />
their community.” So what of the Afrobeats community?<br />
Recently the reggae artist Buju Banton was on Drink<br />
Champs, and he rather controversially made the claim<br />
that Jamaican artists have done more to fight for the liberation<br />
of Africa than the Afrobeats community: “We<br />
hear our African brothers and sisters doing music that<br />
we can identify with, but we're not hearing nothing to<br />
free Africa, to free the mind of African [people]. We are<br />
concerned.”<br />
Does George share his concern? He carefully muses<br />
that much of the music we hear from the Afrobeats world<br />
is a very small percentage of the actual output of music<br />
that makes it into western airwaves and within that<br />
there is the Afrobeats of the French-speaking diaspora<br />
that makes it to say the suburbs of Paris vs what's played<br />
by youths on the streets of London or New York. That's<br />
before we even consider the literal hundreds of dialects<br />
that are spoken across continents. With that being said,<br />
he cannot think of a single Afrobeats artist that he knows<br />
that can meet the criterias being laid out by Buju.<br />
Despite his ease of delivery, the George on my<br />
computer screen comes across as a serious man. He's<br />
asking a lot not just of the genre that gave him voice, but<br />
also seems to be asking a lot of himself, willing to hold<br />
his own feet to the fire before inviting others to take off<br />
their shoes. A husband and a father to a one-year-old, I<br />
can’t help but ask the poet, “But what of love?” He smiles.<br />
I suggest that out of all the constructs of Blackness and<br />
masculinity held up by Hip Hop, the idea of openly loving<br />
Black men seems to be one of the hardest to broach. He<br />
agrees, “If you see my wife and I, all you would see is us<br />
laughing. We laugh a lot and about everything, the good<br />
and the bad. I would like to talk more about that, what it<br />
means to be a husband and a father.”<br />
I often like to think about what I’d be doing or who<br />
I’d be if I spent less time defending what is but a manufactured<br />
idea to begin with, “my Blackness.” So I ask<br />
George: “If you weren’t Black what do you think you’d be<br />
writing about?”<br />
“I’d like to think I’d still be socially conscious. I’d<br />
like to think I’d probably be like George Carlin.” AC<br />
116 aphrochic
issue eighteen 117
WHO ARE YOU<br />
Photograph by Richard DeBose<br />
Name: Monique T. Marshall<br />
Based In: Brooklyn, NY<br />
Occupation: Founder & Chief-in-Charge at Black<br />
to Business<br />
Black Culture Is: Black culture is resilience and<br />
innovation, qualities that have allowed us to thrive<br />
and lead despite challenges throughout history.<br />
In many ways, my own journey reflects these core<br />
values. Growing up, I didn’t have examples of Black<br />
entrepreneurship around me, and that deeply<br />
impacted my understanding of what was possible.<br />
That’s why I started Black to Business because<br />
I wanted to build the platform that I wish had<br />
existed for me, one that empowers first-time and<br />
early-stage Black entrepreneurs to build successful<br />
businesses. I know firsthand the struggles of<br />
building a business with limited representation,<br />
resources, and support, and that’s why this mission<br />
is so important to me. At its core, Black culture<br />
has always been about resourcefulness, creativity,<br />
and community. Through Black to Business, I’ve<br />
committed to amplifying the voices and businesses of<br />
those who don’t always get the exposure they deserve.<br />
By providing business-building resources, helping<br />
them build relationships, increase their visibility,<br />
and turn that exposure into growth, we’re creating<br />
opportunities for entire communities. Our work has<br />
been recognized by 21Ninety, Apple, Spotify, Harvard<br />
Business School, and Wondery Media, but it’s the<br />
impact we make on the ground, the real relationships<br />
we help entrepreneurs forge, that reminds me how<br />
necessary this work is. When I think about Black<br />
culture, I see a culture that consistently sets trends,<br />
pushes boundaries, and drives innovation. Whether<br />
through music, fashion, or business, Black culture is<br />
a source of unbounded creativity. Black to Business<br />
carries this forward by empowering entrepreneurs<br />
to tell their stories, build their brands authentically,<br />
and create legacies that last. I believe that at its<br />
core, Black culture is rooted in community. Black<br />
to Business thrives on that sense of connection and<br />
unity. When we succeed together, we build a stronger<br />
future for generations to come. I see Black culture as<br />
a reflection of resilience, boundless creativity, and a<br />
legacy of strength that we carry forward, collectively.<br />
A<br />
1<strong>18</strong> aphrochic
THE<br />
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