Mediterranean travel route

Mediterranean
travel route
Places kissed by the sea
Maksym Hryn

Songs that will help you feel the
atmosphere of the places described in
the book
Desireless - Voyage Voyage
Gino Paoli - Sapore di Mare
Matteo Simoni - Marina
In-Grid - Tu es Foutu
Adriano Celentano - Il Tempo Se Ne Va
Bon Entendeur, Mouloudji - L'amour
Al Bano & Romina Power - Felicita
Andrea Bocelli - Love in Portofino
Inessa Galante - Ave Maria
Toto Cutugno - L'italiano

Author Maksym Hryn
Editor Arkadiy Chernov
Prague 2024
design Maksym Hryn
copyright Maksym Hryn
ISBN 978-80-11-05733-3

C O N T E N T
THE PREFACE 1
GRAND TOUR 2
CLASSIFICATION AND RECOMMENDATIONS 3
THE TRAVELER`S CODE 5
AMALFI COAST
6
KOTOR BAY
18
CAPRI
24

C O N T E N T
VENICE
41
SANTORINI
53
PORTOFINO COAST
66
LANZAROTE
86
OTHER PLACES
100
FINAL
104

1
The Preface
This guide is written to give people a dream and then make it come true in
the best possible way.
I realized that it is necessary to attract high-quality tourism. People who will
be able to feel.
The places described in the book are places of spiritual strength, tranquility
and enjoyment of life. To feel this, you need to properly prepare for the
journey. These places are a combination of history, culture, sea, incredible
beauty of nature, here you can fully reflect on your life and make sense of
it. Places that have been gifted by nature and decorated by the
architecture of people.
Since childhood, I have been madly in love with nature and adventure. Maybe
it was because of the books by Jack London and Arthur Conan Doyle, or
because I spent my childhood outdoors with my father and grandfather,
fishing in our free time. I dreamed of searching for treasures and at the age
of 15 I bought a metal detector, starting to discover history with my own
hands. In the future I plan to create a museum of my finds.
At the age of 17 I emigrated to Europe myself and at the age of 20 I began
traveling to places that attracted me and seemed extremely beautiful. I spent
hours on Google maps looking for hidden gems and I really liked it.
In 3 years I have visited many places in Europe and created my own list of
the most beautiful places.
Even before the trip, I calculated everything down to the smallest detail,
thereby increasing comfort and greatly reducing unnecessary costs.
Everyone around me was surprised at how well I was doing and advised me
to open a travel agency. To be honest, I don't really like travel agents. Highquality
tourism occurs when a person studies a place himself in advance, now
there are many opportunities for this. Therefore, I decided to write a travel
guide with my own list of places, rather than open a travel agency, as this will
help people much more. I hope this helps you.
I've been to a lot of places and compiled my top. Book describes and
recommends, but does not impose.

2
Grand Tour
I have always jokingly called my travels a Grand Tour, because I was a
student, but there is one difference, as I traveled exclusively for my money.
In my travels, I have learned the beautiful and eternal.
“Art, antiquity and architecture: the Grand Tour provided an opportunity to
discover the cultural wonders of Europe and beyond.
Popular throughout the 18th century, this extended journey was seen as a
rite of passage for mainly young, aristocratic men.
As well as marvelling at artistic masterpieces, Grand Tourists brought back
souvenirs to commemorate and display their journeys at home.
For young English aristocrats, embarking on the Grand Tour was seen as an
important rite of passage.
Accompanied by a tutor, a Grand Tourist’s route typically involved taking a
ship across the English Channel before travelling in a carriage through
France, stopping at Paris and other major cities.
Italy was also a popular destination thanks to the art and architecture of
places such as Venice, Florence, Rome, Milan and Naples. More adventurous
travellers ventured to Sicily or even sailed across to Greece. The average
Grand Tour lasted for at least a year.
The development of the Grand Tour dates back to the 16th century. One of
the earliest Grand Tourists was the architect Inigo Jones, who embarked on a
tour of Italy in 1613-14 with his patron Thomas Howard, 14th Earl of Arundel”.
(RoyalMuseumsGreenwich.co.uk, 2024)
“At its zenith, the grand tour cultivated generations of privileged young men,
but it also had an impact on the countries the grand tourists visited and on
the countries to which they returned. The young travelers brought traffic and
disorder, but they also brought money. Along the traditional grand tour route
in Paris, Lyon, Genoa, and other cities, restaurants and lodging
establishments grew. The young men became patrons of local artists,
including Canaletto and Piranesi, and of the antiquarian market. Others gave
rise to the demand for copies and, concurrently, forgeries. Meanwhile, the
grand tour inspired many of the young men to take an interest in ancient art
and to bring home ideas that contributed to the revival of classical styles”.
(Britannica.com, 2024)

3
Classification and recommendations
Observing the people who travel and types of travel, I have come to the
conclusion that it all fall into several types. But don't forget that people can
change their approach to travel throughout their lives and the way they travel
depending on the needs of the soul, so this classification does not mean strict
limits. You can travel in different styles and this is not a bad sign. I entered the
classifications in the guidebook because preparing for a trip will directly depend
on what plans you have and what type of vacation you prefer.
The first type is active travelers who are ready to explore all the locations of the
chosen place, regardless of the complexity and inaccessibility. Despite the fact
that after traveling in this style, you will need additional rest, this travel option
that will allow you to experience and get to know the local atmosphere to the
fullest.
You will need pre-planned actions. I have prepared a small list of
recommendations that it is advisable to find out in advance:
explore the map
attractions (opening hours, prices and tickets)
which shoes are better to wear for the selected locations
restaurants (their reviews and menus)
places where you can rent a car/scooter (reviews + try to contact the
company in advance)
book your accommodation in advance
flights in advance
mobile Internet
the schedules of local buses, ferries, trains (download the schedules in
advance to your phone)
tides, ebbs (I'm kidding, but in certain locations it's important too)

4
In general, make everything so that upon arrival at your chosen place you feel
at ease. Believe me, it's worth it.
The second type of travelers are people for whom traveling is only a rest.
Instead of hiking in the mountains near the coast, they prefer to relax on the
beach or by the pool. This is not a bad thing, it's just that these two groups
have a different understanding of recreation.
In this case, I think you can use a travel agency, since such a vacation is their
profile. They will also offer you various excursions. On the other hand, you
can find a place to stay and flights yourself. Here you need to look at the
situation, which will be more relevant. I must say right away, a lot will depend
on the availability and price of the flight.
The third type of traveler combines the two previous ones. I would say that it
is optimal, but it requires more time and a larger budget. Slowness allows you
to relax both physically and mentally, while mastering the local flavor.
There is the same preparation as in the first type of rest. This is important
because it is better to prepare in advance than to do it all on beach days. On
beach days, it's better to just relax, because tomorrow's trip to the sights will
already be planned and you will know what's what. I advise you to book
accommodation and flights yourself, based on the fact that you need relative
proximity to the locations that you want to visit and more free days than the
travel agency will give you, since you will not only lie on the beach.
At the time of writing this book, one airline already has a feature to buy a
fixed price pass for a year's worth of unlimited flights on their company's
aircrafts. I am sure other airlines will add unlimited flight subscription service
too and it will be popular. It's a great solution for people who travel often and
I'm really happy that this was implemented.

5
The Traveler's Code
I have compiled a few rules that should be followed when traveling. For
some, they will seem trivial, but I'd rather write them anyway.
I.You need to respect the culture and characteristics of the population of
another country, remember that you are the guest. Do not get angry in
case of misunderstanding with the locals.
II.Find out in advance the rules that apply in the country you are going to.
This applies to the rules of conduct (cultural differences), laws and traffic
laws.
III.ALWAYS find out the check-out time in advance. It is bad form to check
out late without an important reason.
IV.Don't leave chaos in the apartment after check-out.
V.Write reviews after the trip.

6
Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Сoast or Costiera Amalfitana is located in Italy near Naples, every
traveler has probably heard about this place. I can say with confidence that
this is one of the most beautiful places on Earth, but to feel the full charm of
this place, you need to know certain points.
The length of the coast is about 40 km with many pearls, such as Sorrento,
Positano, Praiano, Amalfi, Atrani, Ravello and other charming towns. Azure
coves, breathtaking views, steep slopes, incredible architecture and steep
serpentines are waiting for you. The Amalfi Coast was listed as a UNESCO
World Heritage Site in 1997.
Memories
It was my first trip to Italy. The Italians pronounced my name like Massimo.
At first, Naples and the road to Sorrento overwhelmed me and my friend
Arkasha in horror. We had completely different ideas about Italy. But when
we reached Sorrento everything changed at once. When we moved into our
apartment, there was pasta with tomato sauce and a bottle of wine on the
table. We did not expect such hospitality. The hostess also gave us the
contacts of her friend who could rent us a scooter. In the evenings we
enjoyed sunsets overlooking Vesuvius by the walls of the ancient villas and
during the day we explored the Amalfi Coastline on a Vespa scooter.
The next day after arrival we were already lying on the beach in Positano in
shirtsleeves, sipping Italian beer, smoking cigarettes and listening to Knockin
On Heaven's Door. We marvelled at the beauty of these places and at a local
restaurant I invented the term ‘from sea to table’, referring to the seafood
that restaurants buy from fishermen and prepare immediately. We explored
with great curiosity the small villages that line the cliffs, while Italians
photographed our rented scooter. The thing is that they love Vespa scooters,
as well as the Fiat 500 car and after trips to Italy I joined the ranks of fans of
these vehicles.
The most amazing thing is that everywhere we were by ourselves. There
were no tourists and we fully enjoyed these beauties. The thing is, it was just
after the Covid-19 epidemic. We were alone on the beach in Positano, Fiordo
di Furore, The Amalfi cathedral, Ravello and the rest of the places.
Marcus Aurelius — 'Dwell on the beauty of life. Watch the stars, and see
yourself running with them.'

7
A piece of history of Amalfi Coast
“Odysseus, a hero of the Greek mythology and king of the Greek island
Ithaca, while sailing near the bay, heard the beautiful song of the sirens, to
which he could not resist. He ordered his crew to plug their ears to not hear
the singing and had himself tied to the mast oh the ship. Like that, he became
the first one to survive the hearing of the sirens’ song. The Gods of Olympus
though, underestimating Ulysses’ cleverness, flew down to Earth to prevent
him from becoming shipwreck. But in order to land on the ship, they landed
on the pristine coast instead, churning up the rocks and creating the rugged
cliffs of today’s Amalfi Coast.
The rich Romans built their villas here, and frescoes on many of them are still
visible. In the middle of the 9th century, the independent Duchy of Amalfi was
formed here, which was a competitor of Genoa and Pisa, having entered into
a war with them. In exchange for their exports, the Amalfi nobles received
gold dinars from Egyptian and Syrian mines, with which they bought the silks
of the Byzantine Empire and resold them in the West. This attracted pirates
very much and Romans managed to resist them. The transformation to
terraced landscapes took place mainly in the 12th and 13th century, initiated
by monasteries. Until the 1800s, it was possible to get from one part to
another only by mule. Thus, the traditions and products of the region have
been preserved better than in other areas that have already been
globalized”. (ACABRIO.org, 2020)
3 main tips
The first rule of the Amalfi coast is not to go there in the summer. Just
forget about the summer trip, because there will be a lot of tourists there and
you will not be able to enjoy this place. This trip is a lifelong dream for many
people, but many of them make this mistake. I recommend winter, as the
weather is comfortable here all year round. You won't be able to swim, but
you will be able to focus on the atmosphere.
The second pretty prerequisite for an unforgettable trip in this place is a
Vespa scooter. This will give you a great overview, accessibility to any
location and flexibility. In Italy, you can rent 125CC scooters with a category B
driver's license, which is very convenient. If you don't know how to drive a
scooter, don't worry, it's very easy. It was on the Amalfi Coast that I learned
to ride a scooter and it was very useful to me for further travels. It is very
inconvenient to take a car here because of the very steep and narrow
serpentines. If you don't have a driver's license, then don't worry, travel is still
possible. Buses run all the time, at the same time you will learn about the
local signal from the bus drivers.
I advise you to stay in Sorrento, Positano or Amalfi, depending on your
budget and preferences. When traveling in winter, Sorrento is the best
option, as you will have a good selection of shops and restaurants, as well as
views of Vesuvius by moonlight in the evenings. Although this town is a little
far from the rest, there are many buses running from it.

8
What to see?
Take a ride along the serpentines and enjoy the views, go to every town
and disappear into it. I advise you to visit all the main towns on the coast,
explore the main attractions and have a cup of coffee.
From the water, the coast also looks incredible. If finances allow, you can
safely rent a boat, but I would not call it mandatory.
This region is famous for its Sorrentine lemons, from which they make a
wonderful limoncella. Buy a bottle and enjoy it, it's divine in such places. Also
try to find mandarincella (we were treated by the owner of a family
restaurant).
See a crevice, an abandoned mill and enjoy a moonlight view of Vesuvius in
Sorrento. Walk down to the famous beach in Positano. Enjoy the views from
Praiano. Visit St. Andrew's Cathedral in Amalfi. Be sure to go up to Ravello
and go to the villa Cimbrone Gardens. If time permits, then drive all the way
to Salento, you will not regret it. If you love hiking, then follow the path of the
Gods, which will give you breathtaking views.
Also I will recommend one place with a special urgency. It`s Fiordo di Furore.
A picturesque narrow bay with steep cliffs on both sides, an arched bridge
and places for swimming and sunbathing. It is located between Praiano and
Conca dei Marini. I was able to visit Fiordo di Furore when there was no one.
It's an indescribable feeling.
Positano and Fiordo di Furore

9
Praiano. “Until a few years ago, Praiano was just a fishing village; today it has
opened to tourism preserving its most authentic and genuine soul, avoiding
mass tourism and offering, in this way, a quiet and relaxing atmosphere. A
population of craftsmen, since 1300-1400, the inhabitants of Praiano were
specialised in the production of linen, coral objects (artisans working with
coral were easy to recognize because of the earrings they wore, an antique
Saracen tradition), hair nets, anchovies packed in salt and weaving palms
during the Easter period”. (PraianOnline.com, 2021)
I recommend to see the beautiful church of San Gennaro with a platform
overlooking the sea.
Ravello. “Ravello has been named the City of Music and is home to the Villa
Cimbrone, Villa Rufolo, the striking Oscar Niemeyer Auditorium and a vibrant
cultural scene: Ravello Festival, Ravello Concert Society.
Thousands of years of history, an enchanting mountaintop setting on Italy’s
most beautiful coastline and views that have captivated countless souls,
inspired artists and filled hearts with passion. Yet it’s just the beginning of
what you will find in this charming village on the Amalfi Coast. There are still
stories to be uncovered along its medieval streets, garden villas and ancient
stone pathways”. (Ravello.com, 2024)
Perched on a hilltop more than 1200 feet (~365 meters) above the
Mediterranean and far removed from the crowds that flock to the sea towns
of Amalfi and Positano, Ravello is the hidden treasure of the Amalfi Coast.
I would ask you not to drive your scooter into the square in Ravello, but to
park it in front of the tunnel, as ride is prohibited there. We parked the
scooter after driving through the tunnel and got a fine. We paid for it, but the
Ravello police apparently made a mistake and the trial went on for 2 years.

10
Atrani. “Amalfi's twin appears like an enchanting Italian nativity scene made
up of a maze of little alleyways, narrow flights of steps, and houses clinging
to the rocks directly over the Mediterranean Sea.
A fishing village, the history of which is inextricably linked to that of its
illustrious neighbor, Amalfi, and which has conserved its ancient medieval
structure, comprised of a cascade of houses interspersed with steep flights
of steps, covered passageways, and tiny gardens, all incredibly intact.
Clinging to the cliff`s face, directly above the sea, at the mouth of the Valle
del Dragone, Atrani is the smallest town in the whole of Southern Italy. The
Church of San Salvatore de' Birecto, where the coronation of the Doges of
the Republic of Amalfi once took place, is located here. Another place to visit,
if only for its incredibly panoramic position, is the sparkling majolica-domed
Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Maddalena which dominates the entire
eastern side of the town with its baroque-style facade and soaring bell
tower”. (Positano.com, 2024)
Amalfi. Italy's oldest maritime republic and symbol of the Amalfi Coast, Amalfi
continues to enchant visitors just as it did in the days of the Grand Tour.
Things to see and do in Amalfi Town:
The Amalfi cathedral. Begun in the 9th century and altered over time with
Arab-Norman, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements, the church is
preceded by an impressive flight of 62 steps and towers over Amalfi's main
piazza.
The ancient arsenals. Beyond the Piazza del Duomo, at the center of which
the 18th-century Fontana del Popolo takes pride of place, visitors reach what
remains of the ancient arsenals where the marine republic's warships were
once constructed.
The paper museum. The production of handcrafted paper, known as
bambagina, is one of the oldest of Amalfi's traditions and today remains part
of the town's culture and identity”. (Positano.com, 2024)

11
Positano. “Seen from the sea, Positano is set in an impressive vertical panorama
of colors: the green of the Monti Lattari; the white, pink, and yellow of the
Mediterranean houses; the silvery grey of its pebble beaches; and the blue of
the sea.
The majolica-tiled dome of the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta can be
seen from every corner of the town. A Byzantine-inspired icon of a Black
Madonna dating back to the 18th century is conserved inside the church.
Discover the ancient history of Positano by visiting the local Museo
Archeologico Romano. It was recently inaugurated on the site where an
ancient Roman villa once stood, beneath the oratory of the Church of the SS.
Maria Assunta in Piazza Flavio Gioia 7.
Spiaggia Grande is the heart of Positano waterfront. Spanning 300 meters, this
beach is one of the largest on the Amalfi Coast, as well as one of the most
glamorous, attracting a fashionable crowd of artists, actors, and celebrities.
Those looking for a more peaceful spot in which to bask in the Mediterranean
sun will love Positano's Fornillo beach, which can be reached via a footpath that
sets off from Spiaggia Grande”. (Positano.com, 2024)
Sorrento. “Since the gilded age of the Italian Grand Tour, Sorrento has been one
of the most popular destinations in Italy. With picturesquely soaring cliffs above
the waters of the Mediterranean, a vibrant old town chock-full of shops and
restaurants, and a strategic position between Mount Vesuvius and the Amalfi
Coast, Sorrento has attracted thousands, if not millions, of tourists every year for
over a century.
The center of the city's life is Piazza Tasso, which is full of energy and people at
all hours. Corso Italia is lined with cafes, restaurants and shops but the entire
historic center has life, sights and eateries tucked away in the side streets.
There are loads of pretty palaces fronting the streets, attesting to the town's
prosperity. The Villa Comunale is a civic park bursting with blooms and trees, a
popular gathering spot for the citizens. Piazza Vittoria contains the Temple of
Venus, or what remains of the ancient structure. The church of San Francisco
has a cross-vaulted cloister that hosts concerts and art exhibitions. And don't
miss the Romanesque Duomo, the city's cathedral that dates back to the 1400s.
It has gorgeous doors with a fresco over the portal. It's accompanying bell tower
has a clock faced with maiolica tiles and there are ancient columns shoring up its
base”. (Positano.com, 2024), (SummerInItaly.com, 2024)

18
Kotor bay
Now we will move to cozy and inexpensive Montenegro, which has pleased
us with an incredible pearl.
Bay of Kotor (Boka Kotorska) is the largest Adriatic bay between Montenegro
and Croatia. With its stunning backdrop of steep, imposing cliffs that
plummet to a narrow inlet of the sparkling Adriatic Sea… Best-known town is
its namesake Kotor, located at the southern end of the bay. Kotor’s UNESCO
World Heritage-listed medieval old town is surrounded by five kilometres of
city walls. These were built into the steep hillsides behind the town by the
Byzantines and Venetians from the 9th–12th centuries to protect it from
invaders.
This is the place where the story of my travels began and this is the first
place that got into this tourist guide.
Memories
This was my first trip to the Mediterranean. I was 19 years old and had a
choice between buying a car and travelling, chose the trip and have never
regretted it. I went there with my friends and sure that this trip has nurtured
the traveller in me.
We explored the Montenegrin coast, snorkelled, came across with young
ladies, drinking litres of the local wine and sailed on a yacht. It might seem a
bit jet set (the jet set is a social group of wealthy and fashionable people who
travel the world to participate in social activities unavailable to ordinary
people), but it wasn't. We did it for minimal money and it was very important
to us that we earned that money ourselves.
There I met a girl from Serbia, her name was Elena, of course our love story
did not last long after the separation. In the evenings we watched sunsets
sitting by the rocks near the sea and enjoyed the romance.
We were very amazed by the beauty of the town of Kotor, we liked it the
most. On top of Kotor's fortress, my friend Andrew and I coined the phrase “if
I get married, I will get married in Kotor”.

19
A piece of history
“By 400 B.C., the Greeks had established several colonies around the bay,
and when the Illyrian queen Teuta attacked them in 229 B.C., the Greeks
asked the Romans for protection. After defeating the Illyrians, the Romans
ruled the bay for the next 500 years, until the fall of their Western Empire in
the late fifth century. Both Risan and Kotor were Roman colonies, and a
highlight of any modern trip to the bay is visiting the remains of Risan’s thirdcentury
Roman villa, whose floors are still decorated with vibrant,
geometrically patterned mosaics. The most famous mosaic, located in the
master bedroom, depicts Hypnos, the Greco-Roman god of sleep, leisurely
reclining in a lounge chair. During the Middle Ages, the bay remained an
important harbor and trading hub, and the town of Kotor developed into a
significant commercial and artistic center. Through the centuries, various
entities — including Serbian emperors, the Venetians and the Ottomans —
fought for control of the town”. (Earthmagazine.org, 2018)
3 main tips
Climb the 1350 steps of the city walls for panoramic views across the Bay of
Kotor from the fortress of St John (San Giovanni). Don't be lazy and do it,
because it will open up a view of the entire bay. You should have very
comfortable shoes and a bottle of water, it will be sold very expensive at the
top of the fortress. My friend and I thought about it in advance and bought a
cold beer before going up. When we opened the beer at the top of the
fortress, everyone was very jealous of us, I still remember those looks :)))
Sail on a yacht, looking at the Bay of Kotor from the water, if you can afford
it. I was sailing there with friends and it's breathtakingly beautiful.
Be sure to buy Montenegrin homemade wine.

20
What to see?
“The old town – that is the most famous part of Kotor, where the Kotor history,
culture, and tradition are being preserved. The old town of Kotor has a great
number of monuments of the medieval architecture: churches, cathedral,
palaces, and museums. Its beauty is complemented with the multitude of narrow
streets, squares, and markets. The old town of Kotor stands out also by the
great number of stylishly made gates, palaces of the wealthy families, and a
great number of stairs. The old nucleus of Kotor today is considered to be the
best preserved medieval urban entity in the Mediterranean. The largest and the
most impressive are, by all means, city bulwarks which surround the town.
Get lost in the old town of Kotor, it's worth it. Inside the walls the town’s jumble
of narrow cobbled alleyways mean you’ll probably get lost, but that’s part of the
attraction as you never know what you’ll come across – a Venetian-style church,
a piazza full of restaurants, a flight of stairs leading into the hills, a doorway
surrounded by colourful pots of flowers, and a sleeping cat or two.
They are about 5 km long, 20, high, and about 10 m wide. Bring completely
preserved, they are a unique sample of the fortification architecture in Europe.
The beginning of their construction started in the IX century, in order for them to
be added onto and arranged for the next 10 centuries. Bulwarks have 3 doors,
through which for centuries people have came in and out of the town. From
whichever door that you go into the town, the road will bring you to the most
famous edifice – cathedral Sveti Tripun from the XII century, which is dedicated
to the protector of the town – Sveti Tripun.
There are several squares in the town and the main, and the biggest city square
is Trg od oruzja (Square of arms). That square has always been and remained
the main place for gathering. Various gatherings happened there and it was the
place where people from Kotor assembled.
Cultural richness of Kotor is made priceless by its treasury which hides some
significant cultural monuments like: Tower watch (VIII century), Cathedral of
Sveti Tripun (XII century), Church of Sveti Luka (XII century), Prince’s palace
(XVII century), Church of Sveta Marija (XII century), Church of Lady of Health
(XV century), and Napoleon’s Theater (XIX century). Old Kotor has also
numerous palaces like: Bizanti, Buca, Pima, Grgurin, in which today is Maritime
museum “. (OnTheLuce.com, 2023), (VisitMontenegro.com, 2024)
Visit the rest of the bay cities, each of them is beautiful in its own way (Herceg
Novi, Perast, Risan). There are many secluded beaches and harbors in the bay.
Just open the map and surrender to the impulses of the soul.

24
Capri (island of dreams)
It's a sweet word… Capri. Almost everyone has heard about this incredible
place. The world famous Blue Grotto and the Faraglioni Rocks… It's more than
just an island. Glamorous, alluring, sophisticated, charmed and lucky… Capri
is a rare concentration of scenic beauty, wonders of archaeology,
architecture and nature, and where the air smells like orange blossoms.
Capri is located in the Tyrrhenian Sea off the Sorrento Peninsula, on the
south side of the Gulf of Naples in the Campania region of Italy. The largest
settlement on the island is the town of Capri. The island has been a resort
since the time of the Roman Republic.
Memories
We were in Capri for a few days, me and two of my mates. I warned them to
prepare for the incredible beauty and to take plenty of money with them.
After two days, their money ran out..... (as a result we cancelled our
reservation at a restaurant overlooking the main square from the panoramic
terrace, which we had booked months before we arrived :)
We climbed steep slopes, explored ancient villas, the villages Capri and
Anacapri, drank many bottles of lemoncello, lay on the beach, took an
excursion to the Blue Grotto and on the last day decided to hire a boat. It was
incredible, we sailed around the island one more time, swam through
Faraglioni Rocks, snorkelled, collected seafood and admired the grottoes and
villas from the water.
While I went snorkeling with Arkasha, Anton stayed in the boat. After 40
minutes, he started screaming, but I was far away and didn't hear anything,
so I started swimming towards him. I swam to Anton and it seemed that the
boat was torn from its anchor and slowly pulled onto the rocks, but the
problem was that the engine would not start. After 5 minutes of trying, I
managed to start the engine, while the adrenaline was at peak.
After Capri we sailed to Naples and already this time we were able to merge
with the chaos, realising its essence. And then there was Posillipo....
“It`s amazingly beautiful here, some kind of infinitely diverse fairy tale unfolds
in front of you. Capri is a tiny piece, but delicious. In general, here at once,
you see so many beautiful things that make you feel drunk, you get crazy and
you can`t do anything. You keep looking and smiling…”

25
History
“The fragmentary and vague historical sources at our disposal do not permit
us to reconstruct with precision the Greek period on Capri. Traces of Greek
presence on the Island of Capri are the Greek walls, a polygonal work close
to the Piazzetta, the Phoenician Steps, a long flight of steps carved in to the
rock face, which connects Marina Grande with Anacapri and various
Epigraphs in the stone. Much of the literary documentation would seems to
be based on traditions of a mythical character. Some citations mention a
settlement of the ancient pre-Hellenic Teleboi population, and the presence
of two towns, difficult to identify.
Capri started occupying an important role in the political and military matters
of the Roman Empire when Ottaviano, not yet Augustus, landed here in 29 BC
and, struck by the incredible beauty of the island, took it from Naples, in
exchange for Ischia. After Ottaviano, the Emperor Tiberius resided on the
island for a decade and it was from Capri that he managed the interests of
the Empire. The presence of the two emperors on Capri notably influenced
the island architecture and the development of the urban area. The advanced
engineering and building capabilities of the Romans, resulted in the
construction of the port, sophisticated drainage and water storage systems,
farms, habitations, and the twelve Imperial villas listed in the nineteenth
century by the native historian, Rosario Mangoni. Fine examples of the
Roman period are Villa Jovis, Villa Palazzo a Mare and Villa Damecuta.
In the Middle Ages the Island of Capri underwent a number of invasions by
the Saracens, who habitually pillaged the towns of Southern Italy and
deported the inhabitants as slaves. The fear of the invaders led the
population of Capri to elect San Costanzo as guardian of the Island, and,
indeed, the saint is almost always depicted in the act of turning away the
pirates. During the invasions, the indigenous population used to hide in the
caves, the largest of which was the Grotta del Monte Castiglione. Only
towards the close of the twelfth century were the first walled fortresses were
built to defend the population.
During the nineteenth century guests included artists from all over the world,
predominantly Germans belonging to the moneyless Bohemian movement of
the time. Only towards the end of the century, with the opening of the
Quisisana, did a tourism comprised of members of the various royal families,
aristocrats, politicians and industrialists arrive on the island on Capri. The
fortune of the Island of Capri's hospitality industry has been in it's ability to
welcome, with the same care and discretion, guests of every social
extraction. Among those to have stayed on the Island of Capri we find the
Russian exile Massimo Gorkij, the German artist Karl Wilhelm Diefenbach,
Miradois - the monk who lived in the Cave of Matromania, Count Jacques
Fersen, the writer Norman Douglas. Axel Munthe, the famous Swedish
Physician, also moved to the Island and built his Villa San Michele here. He
highly praised Capri in his novel "The History of San Michele".

From the nineteen fifties onwards Capri became the world capital of the Cafè
Society: this is when the season of fashionable parties, gala dinners in fine
evening wear and ostentatious luxury began. Today Capri remains a much
desired and dreamt of destination, visited by tourists from all over the world.
Tourists come to the island just for the day or stay much longer, sitting in the
Piazzetta in the hope of escaping anonymity. In the solitary lanes, one can
still come across the occasional artist painting, writing or simply absorbing
the energy of the island so as to transform it into their next book, album or
film”. (Capri.com, 2024)
3 main tips
Many people combine a trip to Capri with a trip to the Amalfi Coast, but I
think this is a big mistake. Such pearls need to be looked at separately in
order to fully enjoy and not have an oversaturation of beauty.
It is forbidden to bring your own transport to the island by ferry, only local
residents have this right. It is comfortable to travel around the island on
shortened buses, at the same time it will give you an adrenaline rush, since
the roads are very narrow and the drivers are real professionals. The island is
small, so I don't see the point in renting a scooter, it's better to use authentic
taxis and buses. Rent a yacht or a boat, it's a must. Some boats can be driven
without special licence, take advantage of this. I have been able to conduct
boats since childhood (my dad has a motorboat), so I have never had any
problems renting them in Mediterranean countries. If you can't rent, then at
least take a tour around the island with other tourists.
There are two cities in Capri, the eponymous Capri and Anacapri, which have
been competing with each other since ancient times. It is cheaper and more
comfortable to live in the city of Anacapri.

What to see?
“Blue Grotto. Let’s start off with Capri’s most famous sight, the one that you’ll be
seeing on all the postcards in the area. The fact that it’s so heavily featured in
literature about the island is no surprise: the Blue Grotto is world-famous for its
crystal clear aquamarine waters and blue color. It’s definitely the place that
everyone visiting Capri has to see, one of the absolute best things to do in Capri.
The emperor Tiberius used it as his private swimming pool, but after that, it was
avoided by locals due to stories of the cave being haunted.
The Gardens of Augustus may not be vast in size, but they’re definitely one of
the best places to see in Capri. What they lack in size, they definitely make up
for in views. The gardens are extremely well cared for and have a vast variety of
Mediterranean flora. You can also enjoy some rather lovely statues, which look
perfectly suited to their surroundings.
However, it’s the views that most people come here for, and they’re well worth
the trip. At the back of the gardens are two terraces that offer breathtaking
views of the sea, the surrounding lush greenery, and of the famous Faraglioni
rocks. It’s a wonderful place for taking a moment to relax and watch the pleasure
boats zipping through the seas, as well as taking some amazing photographs.
Via Krupp. The twisting hairpin bends of Via Krupp are located right next to the
Giardini di Augusto. This is one of the most iconic landmarks of Capri.
Via Krupp is a real jewel in Capri’s crown. It’s being extensively photographed –
you may as well find that it looks strangely familiar as you approach. The narrow
path switches back on itself over and over, as it descends towards a particularly
attractive bay of the pale blue sea. It just begs to be photographed.
The road gets its name from a German industrialist, Friedrich Krupp. He created
and used the path regularly, as it lay between his hotel and the research vessel
he was using. Krupp outstayed his welcome by getting over-friendly with some
of the local youths, resulting in him being asked to leave. But the name of the
road has remained.
Faraglioni. Along with the Blue Grotto, the Faraglioni rocks are the symbol of
Capri. These rock formations tower out of the blue waters which surround them,
and are a photographer’s dream. The Faraglioni have been formed by the
crashing of the waves beneath them, the waters slowly eroding everything but
the strongest rock formation. This has led to three rock stacks remaining: Stella
(the one closest to Capri), Mezzo in the middle, and Scopolo, which is the
furthest distance away. Scopolo is actually a bit of natural curiosity, as it’s the
home to blue lizards which are only found there.

Monte Solaro. If you are looking for the very best views in Capri, then you’ll
need to go to the island’s highest point, Monte Solaro.
You’ll see Monte Solaro as soon as you arrive on Capri – it’s the mountain
which towers over Marina Grande. No need to worry about hiring climbing
gear: it’s actually relatively easy to get to the summit. A hiking path starts in
Anacapri (you’ll need to take a bus to Capri’s second town), and it’s an easy
hike for anyone in good condition. You can enjoy the local flora on the way
up: Monte Solaro is known for its proliferation of plant life.
If you want to make life even easier for yourself, you can catch a chairlift to
the summit. The single-seat chairlift is an experience in itself and the ascent
to the top is quite gentle – there are no large drops beneath you at any point.
The chairlift starts from the station at Anacapri, on Via Caposcuro.
Via del Pizzolungo stretches from the Faraglioni to the Natural Arch and
offers amazing scenery. It is well worth taking the opportunity to get away
from the crowds and enjoy a slice of Capri’s natural beauty.
We highly recommend starting the trail from the Natural Arch and walk in the
direction of Belvedere Tragara. That way you’ll avoid having to climb up a
large flight of stairs. Simply follow the signs to the Natural Arch from the
center of Cape Town, then turn off when you reach the Ristorante Le
Grottelle.
The Natural Arch. Much like the Faraglioni, the Natural Arch is a quirk of
nature and erosion. It’s also just as photogenic. It used to form the roof of a
grotto, but when the grotto collapsed, the arch was left on its own.
The Natural Arch is an easy hike from Capri Town. Most of the walk is down a
quiet street and the only strenuous activity you’ll need to do is traversing
down a flight of steps. Bear in mind that you’ll need to come back up, though.
The walk is well worth it, as you’ll be rewarded with glorious views of the
arch, with a bay of clear blue water directly underneath it.
It’s also possible to hire a boat and see the arch from the sea. It gives some
incredible perspectives of the underside. I anchored the boat right under
and watched the arch floating in the rocks, it's just an incredible feeling!
28

Villa Jovis. If you enjoy spotting the beautiful villas dotted around Capri, then
you can see the one which started it all – Villa Jovis. The original path home on
the island was owned by Emperor Tiberius, a lifelong fan of Capri.
It’s said that he used the villa for less than savory pastimes. Rumors abound
about orgies and other sexual excesses, and any guests who didn’t meet with his
approval were dispatched by being thrown off the nearby cliffs. Whether it’s true
or if it’s propaganda against an unpopular tyrant, nobody really knows.
But you can certainly see why he picked Villa Jovis to be his home from Rome.
The views are astounding, as well as handy for keeping an eye on the mainland
and Capri’s port. Villa Jovis is in ruins these days, but it’s a really interesting
place to look around.
Via Camerelle. This serene street in Capri Town probably has one of the highest
concentrations of luxury fashion shops found anywhere in Italy. Name a fashion
brand, particularly Italian ones, and you’ll probably find it here. If these
fashionable boutiques are a little out of your range, there’s nothing stopping you
from window shopping or just walking along the street and living the dream.
Piazza Umberto I. People-watching is a guilty pleasure anywhere in the world,
but there are probably few finer spots for it than the square in the center of
Capri Town, Piazza Umberto I. Grab a chair in one of the outdoor cafes in the
piazza and simply watch the new arrivals emerging into the square.
Marina Piccola. When you arrive, you’ll find the finest place on the island to take
a dip. The seas are wonderfully clear, and the beach is situated in a natural suntrap.
You’ll find many locals and some tourists here, all enjoying the sun and
scenery.
Villa San Michele. Villa San Michele is another popular place to see on Capri
island. This beautiful house was owned by Axel Munthe, a Swedish doctor.
He loved Italy so much that he decided to set up home on Capri (can you blame
him?). He visited the island when he was seventeen and saw a ruined chapel
dedicated to San Michele. Years later, after assisting with an epidemic that had
affected Naples, he came back to Capri and bought the property.
Munthe was an author as well as a doctor, and his house became a sort of
museum. He was fascinated by art and collected many items that are now on
display in the house.
He was also rather good at designing gardens and the ones at Villa San Michele
are still laid out according to his specifications. These are a particular highlight:
they’re not big, but have an incredible variety of Mediterranean flowers and
plants growing within them. Definitely worth a visit!
The Phoenician Steps (La Scala Fenicia) provide some incredibly beautiful
views. It’s one of the shortest ways connecting Capri’s Marina Grande to
Anacapri, but be warned: there are 921 steps and they’re steep.
Despite the name, the steps probably weren’t created by the Phoenicians.
Instead, they were the product of the Greeks, who connected the fledgling
communities at Capri Town and Anacapri by carving out steps from the rock
face. In fact, until 1874, the steps were the only way of reaching Anacapri.
The Church of San Michele in Anacapri, with its remarkable maiolica floor, is one
of the most important examples of the 18th century Neapolitan school. The
mosaic pattern on the floor of this church is simply breathtaking”.
(FullSuitcase.com, 2023), (Chiesa-San-Michele.com, 2007)
29

41
Venice
“For many, the most beautiful city in the world. Venice has an eternal and
poignant charm, and is today among the world capitals of contemporary art.
Timeless and magical, the soul of Venice is made up of 118 islands united
together by more than 400 bridges, separated by canals that act as
waterways, forever bustling with gondolas and boats in a never-ending backand-forth.
Saying that it is brimming with art treasures is even disrespectful:
romantic charm and history are absolutely unique”. (Italia.it, 2024)
Memories
I have been delaying the moment of my trip to this city for a long time,
waiting for the moment when my soul demands it.
I was in Venice with my girlfriend Anastasia.
More than once we just got lost in the streets and wandered around without
any purpose, constantly finding some sights.
We bought food at the supermarket, which was located in the building of the
ancient theater. I admit, I was looking for reasons to go to the store and visit
this unusual place. The ceilings of the theater were painted and have been
preserved to this day.
One evening we went to the local osteria, where we ordered pasta with
seafood. When the waiter came to us with it, all the Italians started clapping.
The dimensions were amazing. It was something like a saucepan the size of
an entire table. Our faces were full of surprise. The Italians laughed, talked to
us and admired our dish. It was something incredible. It's hard to convey
these emotions.
When visiting Venice, it was necessary for me to visit the Caffè Florian. There
is a special atmosphere there. When we left the Caffè Florian on St. Mark's
Square holding handsand enjoying live music, I got goosebumps down my
spine. It was such a strong atmosphere.
It was a wonderful Venetian autumn.

42
A piece of history
“The Republic of Venice was founded in 697, after the decline of the Roman
empire, by people escaping from Germanic invasions. People fled from the
mainland to the small islands in the lagoon, which were difficult to reach and
easy to defend.
Since then, the Republic lasted more than a millennium until 1797. At the
beginning, the Republic was under the influence of the Byzantine empire, but
it gradually became independent.
During the centuries, the Republic of Venice has dominated the trade routes
on the Mediterranean Sea, from Asia to Africa. It became a rich merchant
republic, home to a wealthy merchant class.
Along with commercial success, Venice was also a leading military power,
whose territories were spreading from north Italy to Greece. The lands, once
owned by Venice, belong now to seven different countries: Italy, Slovenia,
Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Greece and Cyprus. It is easy to recognize a
land owned by Venice from its universal symbol: the lion of St. Mark.
Venice was also an industrial city. It was famous for its glass works,
medicines, trades and shipbuilding industry as well as for its vivid cultural
environment.
The Republic of Venice was ruled by an oligarchy of merchants and
aristocrats. The Doge was the most important political entity and it was
elected for life by members of the Great Council of Venice, the city state’s
parliament.
The Doge had to live in Palazzo Ducale, surrounded by a rich ritual, but he
had to support himself and his family with his own financial resources.
Venice decline as a powerful maritime republic began with the opening of
new commercial routes in the Atlantic.
It is possible to recognize this glorious past everywhere in Venice. The rich
buildings along the Grand Canal and in other areas belonged to rich merchant
families and the buildings keep the name of the family (e.g. Contarini, Ca`
Dario, Ca` Rezzonico etc.)
The arsenal was the siege of the shipbuilding factory, where the commercial
and military ships of Venice were built. It is still used today by the Italian
navy.
Most important of all, Venetians are very proud of their history and
particularly fond of their traditions. The Carnival, Redentore or the historic
regatta are just few, of the many events, in which you will be able to
experience this”. (VeniceByVenetians.com, 2018)
"The words "Venice" came out of his mouth with a tremendous rumble, as if it
came from Heaven itself. Paolo even envied the senator's undying faith in the
might of his power. In his every accent, in every word and sound at the
mention of Venice, his voice was permeated with pride and love at one and
the same time. Venice was his soul, his love, his power, in coition
representing something all-powerful and invulnerable. It was this kind of
devotion that favoured the senator on the road to his dreams and desires".

43
3 main tips
Don`t go to Venice in summer, in my opinion the ideal time of year to visit is
autumn or spring.
I advise you to see Venice with your partner.
If you want to eat like a Venetian, it`s worth having some restaurants in
mind ahead of time.
Also don't take flowers from strangers, it's often a trap and you will be
asked for money. I knew this beforehand and warned my girlfriend, but it
didn't stop her from taking a flower. Fortunately, the situation was resolved
without loss of money.
What to see?
Dissolve into bridgwes and streets.
Visit the supermarket, which is right in the former theatre building (Despar
Teatro Italia).
There is no more famous café in Venice than the legendary Caffè Florian in
Piazza San Marco. Here you can enjoy the 18th-century décor and bask in
the sun while listening to the orchestra in the patio overlooking the Doge's
Palace.
“Whether it's your first or 10th visit to Venice, the Basilica di San Marco will
still impress you. This famous cathedral has so many details, from golden
domes with paintings on the inside to beautiful decorations and statues of
animals on the outside. Every visit you will see something different in and
around the church. Tip: take the time to observe the mosaic well.
The St. Mark's square is the starting point for many activities in the area. On
the square you can find the Museo Correr, the Archaeological Museum, Torre
dell'Orologio and the Basilica di San Marco and the adjacent Doge's Palace.
Close to the square is the Grand Canal, where the piers for various boat trips
are located. The square is especially notable for the galleries that surround it.
However, choose your time well if you don't like crowds.
The Doge's Palace – also called Palazzo Ducale – was home to the Doge, the
leader of the Republic that Venice used to be. This palace in Gothic-style
used to house political institutions. Now the Doge's Palace is a museum,
where you can visit the rooms of the Doge. From the Doge's Palace a bridge
crosses the canal: the Ponte dei Sospiri ('Bridge of Sighs'). This bridge was
used by convicts who had heard their sentences to enter the prison on the
other side of the canal.
The Grand Canal – or Canal Grande – flows through the 6 districts of Venice.
Many smaller canals eventually lead to this Grand Canal. This canal is
charming to see from the shore, but a boat trip is even better to experience
the Venice landmarks and sights from the water. You should do this at least
once in your life. About halfway along the Grand Canal is the famous Ponte di
Rialto (Rialto Bridge).

Things to do in Venice at night? You don't have to be a theater lover to
appreciate the beautiful interior of this property. The velvet armchairs, the
richly decorated balconies, the lighting and the amazing ceiling will make a
visit to this theater special even without a performance. However, in the
Feniks theater, various kinds of performances take place, such as Venetian
opera and ballet, as well as concerts.
Around Venice city are several islands that you can visit with a sightseeing
tour. Murano is the closest to Venice and is best known for its glass art and
related museums or shops. Burano is a little further. Here you cannot ignore
the street with colored houses. Torcello is the furthest away of these three
islands. On this island is the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta and you have a
beautiful view over the lagoon. This island tour is an activity that should not
be missed during your visit to Venice.
From the Grand Canal you can already see the Peggy Guggenheim Museum.
The building looks sober because of a single floor, but it also makes an
impression. The modern collection of paintings and the garden with
sculptures behind the museum are worth visiting. You will find mainly
European and American works of art. There is also a certain tranquility in this
museum, which is sometimes a welcome surprise in a busy city like Venice.
In Cannaregio you will find the Jewish quarter with synagogues and a Jewish
museum. There are also kosher restaurants and Jewish shops. Furthermore,
the non-touristy Cannaregio district is known for the churches Madonna
dell'Orto and Santa Maria Assunta Detta I Gesuiti. Other sights are for
exampe the palace of Ca' d'Oro. A lovely neighborhood to make a walk.
After various extensions of the Doge's Palace, the Ponte dei Sospiri - the
Bridge of Sighs - was built in the 17th century. The purpose of this bridge
was to connect the existing Doge's Palace with the new prison that was built
on the other side of the canal. The name of the Bridge of Sighs refers to the
last sigh of the convicts who were transported to prison. Now it's one of the
most famous places to visit in Venice Italy.
Bacino Orseolo is a small gondola station adjacent to St Mark's Square. It is
surrounded by beautiful palaces which nowadays host hotels and shops.

The Scuola Grande di San Rocco is an impressive 16th-century museum that
displays works of art by Tintoretto, among others. In the former 'brotherhood'
you will mainly find works from the Renaissance period. It is a small museum
and because of the period on display here, the museum can be experienced
as dark. Scenes on ceilings and walls are painted with dark colors, but very
impressive in terms of the story they portray.
The island Lido di Venezia is one of the neighborhoods that make up the city
of Venice. The elongated island is ideal for relaxing activities, such as cycling
or walking. A day at the beach is also possible on Lido. In the north you have
the Faro di San Nicolò as a point of interest. As a golf lover you can also go to
the south of the island. You can also walk the Diga Faro Alberoni here.
In shopping center 'T Fondaco dei Tedeschi' you can shop for clothes,
shoes, handbags, souvenirs or wine. You will find many well-known and
luxury brands and much more. Highly recommended is to reserve a free
ticket for the rooftop terrace. It has one of the best views over Venice and
you see the city with all its sights in a completely different way than from the
small streets or from the water.
If you can't get enough of visiting churches, you must visit the striking
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, the Santi Giovanni e Paolo (San
Zanipolo) with numerous tombs of Doges or the San Zaccaria with its
flooded crypt. Every church in Venice city has a special story, so discover
each one's unique architecture and artwork.
This market is located on the Grand Canal and you can get all kinds of food at
the Mercati di Rialto, such as vegetables, fruit, fish, meat, but also spices. All
the goods are beautifully displayed so that you can take a good look. If you
don't want to buy anything on the market, you will get a good impression of
an Italian fresh market. Being able to observe how the locals buy fresh
groceries for lunch or the extensive Italian dinner leaves a unique experience.
The famous Carnevale di Venezia takes place every year. It is best known
for the beautifully decorated masks that are worn. In the past, the mask also
served a function outside of carnival time, mainly to be able to move
unrecognizably across the street. Now the mask is part of the festivities.
Every year the most beautiful mask is chosen by an international jury of
fashion designers.
The Riva Degli Schiavoni is Venice's main promenade, which is steeped in
the spirit of history”. (VeniceLover.com, 2024)
There are many incredible palazzos along the Grand Canal, I suggest taking
the Vaporetto to see them up close.
…and of course you can ride the gandola if you want to.

53
Santorini
“Of all the Greek islands, Santorini is the most famous, most photographed
and most dreamt about. Over three millennia ago, a volcanic eruption blew
the heart out of what was later named Strongili, “the round island”, creating
one of the most awe-inspiring vistas in the world — a crescent of towering
black and red cliffs plunging into the Aegean Sea.
The eruption also buried the Minoan city of Akrotiri under ash, leaving its
streets, houses, and stunning frescoes undisturbed for thousands of years.
Ancient Thera is even more dramatic still, cresting a sheer mountain 365
metres above the beaches of Kamari and Perissa. But most people don’t visit
Santorini for archaeology. They come to bake on black-sand beaches, pose
by blue-domed churches, sip exceptional local wines, and watch the sunset
gild the sunken caldera. Despite the high volume of honeymooners, bucketlisters
and cruise ships visiting the island, Santorini maintains its magnetic
allure”. (TheTimes.com, 2024)
Memories
When our plane landed at Santorini airport, Anastasia and I took our breath
away from the beauty, as the night moon was reflected in the waves and it
felt like we were landing on water.
It took our breath away even more when we had a view of the sea from the
city of Thira in the morning. It was all like a picture.
We walked, admired the views and then went to the tavern, which was
scheduled to be visited.
Romance is everywhere there.
We met the sunset in the city of Oia in the place, where everyone in Santorini
meets it (the island's tradition). This spot is the ruins of the Venetian Castle of
Agios Nikolaos. The sun sinks into the sea there and when is completely into
it, everyone starts clapping. Emotions at this moment penetrate to the depths
of the soul. The BBC chose this location to film the sunset of the millennium.

54
A piece of history
“Nestled in the embrace of the Aegean Sea, Santorini stands as a living
testament to the eons that have shaped the island. Santorini’s history is a
tapestry woven with threads of mythology, geological marvels, and the
imprints of diverse civilizations.
According to a Greek myth, Santorini was formed from a lump of earth that
the argonaut Euphemus threw into the sea after a dream.
More specifically, Euphemus saw an erotic dream in which he was making
love to a beautiful nymph who got pregnant! As she didn’t want to enrage her
father, Triton, who was a mighty sea god, she advised her lover to create a
refuge for her to hide and give birth to their child.
The dream was so lifelike that when he woke up, he carried a clog of earth
from Anafi island to his pocket, which he threw into the sea once they sailed
away. All of a sudden, the stunning island of Santorini was created.
Santorini was formed after the massive Minoan eruption around 1600 BCE, a
cataclysmic event that reshaped the island’s geological profile. Up until then,
Santorini was part of a big circular island called Strogili.
As the volcano erupted, it expelled vast amounts of magma, causing the
central portion of Strogili to collapse into the sea. This event gave birth to the
iconic caldera - a submerged crater with Santorini and neighboring islands
forming.
The island’s strategic location in the Aegean made it a coveted prize,
witnessing the rise and fall of empires.
Tracing the history of Santorini, we navigate through eras marked by diverse
conquerors. Each civilization left a lasting imprint, shaping the island’s cultural
fabric and architectural styles.
1.Ancient times: The first ones to re-inhabit the island were the Phoenicians,
who stayed for 5 generations. Around the 9th century BC, Lacedaemonians
took the baton, establishing Santorini as a powerful commercial and trade
hub.
2.Roman occupation: The Romans settled on Santorini during the 2nd century
BC, incorporating the island into the Roman Republic. This period lasted until
the fall of the Western Roman Empire in 476 AD.
3.Byzantine period: Following that, Santorini came under Byzantine rule, an
era of prosperity reflected in the island’s architecture and churches. It
endured until 1204, with intermittent interruptions due to Arab and Norman
invasions.
4.Venetian rule: The Venetians seized control of Santorini in 1204. Their
dominion is eminent through the fortifications and grand residences across
the island and lasted until the 16th century.
5.Ottoman occupation: The Ottoman Turks occupied Santorini from 1579 until
the early 20th century when it became part of the Greek state. During this
period, it became a maritime powerhouse known for its sailors and
shipbuilders.

Today, half of the caldera is submerged, which makes it the only sunken
caldera in the world. The volcano remains active and, throughout the
centuries, many eruptions have occasionally occurred. The latest was as
recently as 1956 when small volcanic islets emerged from the bottom of the
caldera.
Another enchanting sight that Santorini displays is the architecture of the
villages, built right on the edge of the caldera. Those picturesque villages
stand out for their sugar-cube houses, paved streets, wonderful churches,
and, most of all, the breathtaking view of the Aegean Sea”.
(SantoriniExperts.com, 2024)
3 main tips
It’s recommended to wear proper shoes as the streets and paths can be
slippery and uneven.
The east and south coasts have the sandiest beaches along with sheltered
waters good for swimming. Here are the very best beaches in Santorini.
“While you can gaze at the magic colors of the sunset from all over Oia village
and admire how the small white houses take different colorations as the sun
goes down, there is one spot in Oia that offers the best view of the sunset.
This spot is the ruins of the Venetian Castle of Agios Nikolaos. Right on the
edge of the Caldera and above the Aegean sea, you will witness the most
scenic spectacle of the sun diving directly into the sea.
Not only the view of the sunset will amaze you, but you will also find yourself
among other people, locals and tourists, waiting for a celebration to start. As
the sun is setting, you feel a sense of excitement inside you and the
atmosphere becomes lively and romantic. This festivity comes to an end
with the sun submerging into the sea and all the people together giving
their best applause for this unique moment. It is a rewarding experience and
a magical sight that will surely come to your mind every time you think of
your holidays in Santorini!” (Santorini-View.com, 2024)

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What to see?
“Oia is without a doubt the most beautiful town in Santorini. One of the best
things to do is stroll up and down the many white steps, through the narrow
streets, discovering cozy taverns. Get ready to grab your camera, because new
surprises are waiting for you after every corner. The bright white houses and
blue domes are truly iconic to Greece, and Oia certainly won’t leave visitors
feeling disappointed.
Because it is arguably the best thing to do in Santorini, it can get crowded in the
narrow streets, especially during sunset. However, a visit to Oia is really worth
your time.
If there’s one thing you must do on Santorini, then it’s watching the sunset at Oia.
Gather for sunset at the Castle of Oia, where you can sit on the castle wall.
Alternatively, sit closer to Agia Ekaterini for the iconic views that are found on
every Greek postcard. Please note that it can get jam-packed during the high
season, so I recommend you take a spot at least an hour before sunset.
Fira (Thira) is the capital of Santorini and also one of the island’s most visited
spots. There are loads of great restaurants and a shopping area. However, the
real eye-catcher is the narrow back streets and hidden chapels to explore—for
example, the Saint Minas Holy Orthodox Church and the Cathedral Basilica of St.
John the Baptist.
On the cliffside, there’s a cable car going up (that’s impressively steep) from the
old harbor. This is where the cruise ships dock.
After passing the cable car point, you will enter Firostefani – a smaller, much
more laid-back town directly attached to Fira. This town is good to base yourself
in, as it is the center of the island. This means you’ll have all the things to do in
Santorini within a 30-minute drive.
Skaros Rock is a large rock formation that overlooks the entire area. Whilst
visiting Imerovigli, it takes only 15 minutes to hike up to Skaros Rock. Once
there, you will find the ruins of an old Venetian fortress, which was once
considered the capital of Santorini.
On the backside of Skaros is a beautiful white church overlooking the sea.
Finally, if you’re looking for the most spectacular view, climb to the peak of
Skaros Rock.
Besides beautiful Fira and Oia, there are other, much less visited, villages that
are well worth a trip during the daytime.
A great thing to do in Santorini is to visit Ammoudi Bay. This small port is tucked
away below Oia, and fantastic seafood restaurants are lined along the clear
waters. It is famous for romantic sunset dinners, and it is also the starting point
for many boat tours that visit the Volcano and Hot Springs.
Getting to Ammoudi Bay can be done via the 280+ steps going down next to
Oia’s Castle or by car or taxi. When using the stairs, it’s recommended to wear
proper shoes as each step is wide and the surface mostly uneven. A third option
offered is riding on the back of a donkey”. (SaltInOurHair.com, 2024)
You can also swim on beaches such as Red Beach (Kokkini Beach), Akrotiri
Beach, Perissa Beach, Vlihada Beach, Baxedes beach. Which one will suit you
best, you will find out by studying them on maps and reviews.

Portofino coast
(Portofino I + Cinque Terre II)
We are moving back to sunny, relaxed and my beloved Italy. Namely, to the
Liguria region. A region that has its own charm and taste.
I recommend exploring this region by scooter, as well as the Amalfi coast.
You can also use a small car. Using public transport to travel between the
many charming villages will be very inconvenient and time consuming. I
would also recommend to refrain from traveling during the season, as there
will be a lot of people and you will not be able to fully enjoy the atmosphere.
Liguria falls under the golden and blue banana region. The Golden Banana or
Sun Belt is an area of higher population. The region is characterized by its
importance in activities related to information and communication
technologies, in terms of quality of life and as a top travel destination. At any
rate, the Golden Banana can also be understood as an extension of the Blue
Banana over the Mediterranean arc. The Blue Banana for EU, also known as
the European Megalopolis, is a geographical term used to describe a highly
urbanized and industrialized area in Europe. It stretches from the United
Kingdom in the northwest, through Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany,
Switzerland, and ends in the northern part of Italy.
I don't want to burden you with definitions, but Liguria also falls under the
classic Riviera: the Mediterranean coastal region between Cannes, France,
and La Spezia, Italy that contains some of Europe's most popular resorts.
After the emergence of this term on the shores of France and Italy, the warm
coasts of different countries began to be called riviera: the Crimea Riviera,
the Croatian Riviera, the Spanish Riviera (Costa Brava) and so on.

67
Memories
It was a trip with friends a week before the Ukrainian-Russian war started.
For the first few days we explored Portofino and the surrounding villages,
swimming (it was February, but that didn't stop us) and drinking wine. My
friend Andrew was walking around in white socks and slippers in Portofino's
main square, because he had rubbed his feet and I reassured him that it was
in fashion now (not). The beauty of these places amazed us.
Then we rented scooters to go further along the coast, visiting other small
villages and exploring Cinque Terre.
On the bridge near Sestri Levante, Andrew almost flew off the bridge as he
was turning in the middle and accidentally jammed the throttle. A similar
situation in Sestri Levante happened to friend of Matthew McConaughey,
during their motorbike trip to Italy when they were young.
We stopped in the villages of Cinque Terre, had lunch in Manarola and after
went to La Spezia petrol station, where the machine ate 20 euros of Andrew
(after 20 minutes we managed to figure it out (we printed a coupon), there
was a big queue behind us, but nobody spoke English), and after that we
decided to go to Pisa. The time was getting towards evening and it was
getting colder, but Pisa was not getting any closer.
I'll be honest, when we saw the Leaning Tower of Pisa on the way to Pisa we
started screaming with joy, because by that time we were very cold and
tired.
We had some warm tea and walked to the Leaning Tower. We decided to
spend the night in Pisa and the next morning do another walk. The walk was
a success except for the two 40 euro fines on the scooters. We visited the
police station to pay them but were told to go to the post office. The post
office was huge, but no one spoke English. We stayed there for about 40
minutes trying to find help from someone as we had to fill in special papers.
Finally they helped us and we got out of there.
On the way back we chose a mountain road with strong serpentines, on the
corners of which there were many graves of drivers, but it was very
adrenaline-fuelled, so we liked it (at the end Andrew said that he almost went
over a cliff a couple of times on the way).
When we got back, friends had a tasting of a few bottles of Prosecco and I
still had time for a solo night walk around Portofino. It was unforgettable.
The next morning we had a lovely cappuccino and then drank the most
delicious Prosecco I've ever had (so far) on the Rapallo seafront before
leaving.
Then, on the Rapallo promenade, we discussed the possibility of war,
because the situation was tense. Andrew was firmly convinced of this and
turned out to be right. A week after his arrival from Milan to Kiev, russia
attacked Ukraine.

Portofino side
Living room, pearl, icon and legend: welcome to Portofino. Always a symbol
of luxury and glamour, the village with colorful houses that crown the famous
square, mirrored in the clear sea of its bay, like an impressionist watercolor is
known worldwide.
I found my love in Portofino
down in a small Italian Bay
after my daily cappuccino
In Portofino, love came my way.
There was a place made just for lovers
across the street a friendly bar
a piano man and others
were singing playing a guitar.
- singer Dalida
A piece of history
“In addition to being visually spectacular, Portofino boasts a tradition as a
marine village dating back to Roman times under the name of Portus Delphini.
The history of Portofino is quite lively: from the beginning of 1200 to the end
of 1800 it underwent many “changes of hands”, being first annexed to the
Republic of Genoa, then passed to Florence, then regained by Genoa, ending
up being part of the First French Empire until the Congress of Vienna in 1814,
with which Portofino became part of the Kingdom of Sardinia and finally part
of the Kingdom of Italy in 1861
Clearly, the great administrative movement between 1400 and 1700 have left
their mark on the city: Saracen towers, castles and architecture, all
sometimes very different from each other.
In the late 19th century, first British, then other Northern European
aristocratic tourists began to visit Portofino, which they reached by horse
and cart from Santa Margherita Ligure. Aubrey Herbert and Elizabeth von
Arnim were among the more famous English people to make the area
fashionable. Eventually, more expatriates built expensive holiday houses, and
by 1950, tourism has replaced fishing as the town's chief industry, and the
waterfront was a continuous ring of restaurants and cafés.
Once a tiny fishing village, Portofino has been an international symbol of la
dolce vita since the 1950s and 60s, when movie stars and other VIPs like
Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Ingrid Bergman, Frank Sinatra and Brigitte
Bardot vacationed there”. (DiscoverGenua.com, 2023)

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3 main tips
Abbazia di San Fruttuoso. A place that is definitely worth a visit. Following
the mountain paths along the sea cliffs, you will come to the abbey with the
beach. An incredible adventure awaits you, breathtaking views and fresh sea
air. Do not forget to take food, water and a bottle of good wine with you. The
length is 4 km, the time of the journey will be about two hours. It is necessary
to wear comfortable shoes. If you want to save time, you can go there by
boat. Book at least half a day of your time or a day for this place.
Baia di Paraggi. Be sure to swim in this charming bay with crystal clear
water.
Not only drive, but also walk along the serpentines on the way to Portofino
to see the breathtaking views. I would also like to add that there are parking
problems in Portofino, be careful not to get a fine.
What to see?
“In addition to the wonderful sea, there are some really fascinating buildings and
monuments, left by the various families that have ruled Portofino over the
centuries and the administrations that have given Portofino points of artistic
interest, some with greater care than others.
One of these is certainly the Oratory of Santa Maria Assunta, with its gothic
details and its architecture in full gothic style.
The town’s promontory is certainly dotted with equally interesting buildings,
arriving at the 16th century Brown Castle and the Punta del Capo lighthouse,
the panoramic view around which can really take your breath away from its
beauty.
The Church of San Giorgio is, without a shadow of a doubt, a bit of a litmus test
of the marine village and represents the essence of the village.
With regard to the landscape and the sea, of course, Portofino is a seaside resort
with a lot of charm, between paths, beaches and bays, you can also find one of
the sculptures known throughout the world: the Christ of the Abyss.
Lying on the bottom of the sea at a depth of 17 meters, placed in the second half
of the twentieth century as a work of art, it is now a tourist destination with
diving organized specifically to see it.
The area is also extremely suitable for trekking and other types of adventure
trails.
The houses are multicoloured and give colour to the little harbour decorated with
the pastel colours of the facades, a truly iconic landscape, which some believe
have also been “imitated” by other marine villages scattered all over the world, a
belief that is entirely possible, given the very special effect caused by the choice
of style. The craft shops, boutiques and small businesses in the town, moreover,
are just another picturesque touch to a place that is already extremely
characteristic.
Baia Cannone: one of the prettiest swimming spots in Liguria. Baia Cannone is
just a postcard, a perfect sight to behold with your own eyes. It is that type of
little slice of Italy that could almost be bottled and sold as it is so singularly
idyllic. This is precisely just the type of place that people dream of when they
think of holidaying in this part of Italy.

Piazza Martiri dell` Olivetta the main square of Portofino. Sit in one of the
restaurants and enjoy the view of the harbor”. (DiscoverGenua.com, 2023)
I also advise you to take a walk around Portofino at night, because a lot of
illuminated buildings and statues create an incredible atmosphere.
Santa Margherita Ligure
“A beautiful seaside town, Santa Margherita Ligure has all the appeal of
Portofino without the crowds and prices. Its palm-lined harbor fringes the
waterfront while the pastel-painted houses crawl up the hill behind. Lush
green forests and olive groves cover the terrain, while sailboats and fishing
craft bob in the colorful marina. It is a friendly and vibrant place with a sunny
disposition, pebbly beaches and a laid-back atmosphere.
The candy-colored Villa Durazzo is actually a complex of three stately villas
set in a lush park perched above the castle. The main Villa was built for the
Centurion prices and dates to the 17th century. In the Villa Durazzo you'll find
mosaic floors, statues, frescoes and opulent Murano glass chandeliers in its
elegant rooms, along with an impressive art collection. It is open for visitors
but also hosts receptions, meetings and galas”. (SummerInItaly.com, 2024)
Camogli
“Peculiar to this zone and to all the Region of Liguria are the typical, painted
facades, known as trompe l'oeil and depicting architectonic elements
including pedestals, cornices, and closed shutters.
Among the sights to see are a number of churches, beginning with the
Basilica Minore di Santa Maria Assunta that faces onto the port realized in the
12th Century, it features a double facade in the Ionic style. Then, the
Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Wood is built on the site where, according to
folk legend, the Madonna appeared in the year 1500.
Be sure to see the characteristic Church known as the Millenaria (13th
Century), dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, and the Parochial Church
of San Rocco of Camogli, with a beautiful vista over the Gulf”. (Italia.it, 2024)
Rapallo
“A few kilometres from Portofino, to which it is connected by the "Walk of
Kisses", lies one of Liguria's most popular tourist destinations, Rapallo, in the
centre of the Bay of Tigullio. Since the 19th century this little town has been a
favourite destination of famous writers such as William Butler Yeats and
Ernest Hemingway. The Vittorio Veneto promenade is framed by Liberty style
buildings.
On the beach are rows of distinctive blue bathing huts, while the narrow
streets of the town are lined with colourful clusters of tall, narrow houses,
often with false painted windows because of a tradition dating back to the
18th century, when the houses were taxed according to the number of
windows they had.
Behind the town, a tree-lined path leads to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of
Montallegro, which has a splendid view of the coast. It can also be reached
by cable car, which leaves from the railway station. The best time to visit is
towards the end of the day, when you can enjoy the romantic Ligurian
sunset.
70

Overlooking the sea there is a fortress, built in the mid-16th century to defend
the coast: named Castello sul Mare, it is the symbol of Rapallo. Every year, on
the feast of Our Lady of Montallegro, the castle is "set on fire" in a stunning
display of lights and fireworks”. (Italia.it, 2024)
Sestri Levante
“The village of Sestri Levante is located in a spectacular landscape and, with its
peninsula that divides the “two seas” of the Baia del Silenzio and the Baia delle
Favole, is one of the most enchanting places.
City of art and culture, its beaches of fine sand are famous but the beach that
better than others encloses the soul of the village is located in Riva Trigoso: here
every day the fishermen leave to go to the open sea, repeating for centuries the
same ancient gestures, like a prayer to the sea, so that it is generous”.
(Italia.it, 2024)

Cinque Terre side
“Cinque Terre is a rugged coastline on the Italian Riviera composed of five
beautiful hillside villages; Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and
Riomaggiore.
The Cinque Terre represent one of the most pristine and extensive
Mediterranean natural and semi-natural areas of Liguria; this is due to mainly
historical and geomorphological reasons that have prevented an excessive
building expansion and the construction of further main roads (which instead
cross and connect the Vara Valley more internally). The activities practiced
by man for centuries, and especially viticulture, have contributed to creating
a unique landscape in the world, named since 1997 UNESCO World Heritage
Site.
The five villages are connected by hiking trails open all year round. The
Cinque Terre Express trains are running every 20 minutes between the five
villages. You can also enjoy this scenic coastline by taking the ferry and hop
on and off where you like”. (CinqueTerre.com, 2024)
A piece of history
“The area that is Liguria today was inhabited already in the Bronze Age as
proven by findings of bones and tools.
This strategic coastline played an important role in the Roman Empire. Then
in the 9th century, the Saracens occupied the region and demolished the
small villages around here. Local people ran away to the hills.
In the 11th century, the Tuscan Obertengo family ruled the area after ousting
the Saracens. The local tribes moved back down to the sea and raised their
first houses. During those days, the new inhabitants started a heroic work
that we still admire today. They turned the natural forests and rough, steep
slopes into cultivated terraces, built dry stone walls and planted vine. The
villages were often under attack by pirates so guards kept an eye on the sea
from many watchtowers. In the meantime, commerce on the sea started.
In the 12th century, the region became part of the Republic of Genoa. Back
then, it took two days to sail from the villages to Genoa. By this time, the
coast was famous for its excellent wine”. (CinqueTerre-travel.com, 2024)
In the 15th century, locals started to use the name "Cinque Terre".
During the 16th century, there were many pirate attacks against the Ligurian
coast. Luckily, the villages of the Cinque Terre had a strong defense system.

What to see?
“Monterosso is the largest of the five coastal villages known as the Cinque
Terre. The village is located on hills cultivated with lemons, vines and olives.
Its amazing beaches, beautiful reefs and the sea’s crystal clear waters make
this small village one of the most popular of the Italian Riviera.
Monterosso is divided into two parts marked by the medieval tower of
Aurora. The old town of Monterosso is dominated by the ruins of the castle
and characterized by typical narrow medieval streets, carruggi, with multicoloured
terraced houses, shops and restaurants”. (CinqueTerre.eu, 2024)
“The small fishing village Vernazza is probably the most characteristic of the
Cinque Terre and is classified as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
Vernazza was founded about 1000 A.D. and was ruled by the Republic of
Genoa starting in 1276. The medieval castle, Belforte, was built in the mid-
1500's, primarily to protect the village from pirates.
The tiny port is surrounded by subtle colorful typical Ligurian houses and the
charming piazza is lined with good restaurants and bars. There is a small,
sandy beach in the natural harbor the Church of Santa Margherita di
Antiochia, a slightly larger one that can be reached by crossing the cave
along the main street, Via Roma.
The centerpiece of the village is the beautiful Church of Santa Margherita
d'Antiochia, whose original core in Romanesque style dates back to the 12th
century by the Magistri Antelami on a previous religious building. Subsequent
alterations expanded it and dressed it in the Baroque style and then restored
to its original, simple and more austere style, dominated by the dark
sandstone and the Mesco stone and sometimes the wooden roof.
Wonderfully overlooking the cliff, the church is the object of a legend: in a
past unspecified time, a wooden box with the bones of a Santa Margherita
finger was found on the beach. The population shouted a miracle and
decided to found a church dedicated to her in another place in the country.
But a wave made the relic disappear, which reappeared some time later on
the beach where it had been found the first time. The Vernazzesi understood
then that they had to build the church there and so they did”.
(CinqueTerre.eu, 2024)

“Corniglia is located in the heart of the Cinque Terre National Park on a small
cape, 100 meters above the sea. It is the smallest of the five villages and also
the least accessible.
You have to climb the Lardarina staircase, 382 stairs, to reach the village or
you can take the shuttle bus up from the train station. Once you are up in the
village, it is relatively flat.
The village is surrounded by vineyards and stone terraces. Because of its
size and relative inaccessibility, fewer tourists stay here, so there is more of a
local feel. There are bars and restaurants here, but no real nightlife. Corniglia
is definitely a place for hikers and nature lovers. The terrace and the bar La
Terza Terra, at the end of the main street, is definitely one of the best places
to enjoy the sunset in Cinque Terre.
In the upper part of the village it is worth visiting the Church of San Pietro,
from 1334, built in Gothic-Ligurian style by Comancini masters.
To access the wonderful sunbathing and swimming spot in Corniglia, you will
have to walk down to the rocky beach for about 10 minutes (steep stairs).
Follow the signs ‘Al Mare’. (CinqueTerre.eu, 2024), (CinqueTerre.com, 2024)
“Manarola, built on a high rock 70 metres above sea level, is one of the most
charming and romantic of the Cinque Terre villages. The tiny harbor features
a boat ramp, a tiny piazza and picturesque multicoloured houses facing the
sea.
Church of San Lorenzo: it is the first attraction that you meet when you go
down the main street of Manarola, via Discovolo. Built in 1338 in the Ligurian
Gothic style, its local sandstone façade bears a gothic arch portal and a basrelief
of the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence in the lunette;
Mill with wheel: continuing along via Discovolo you will find on your left an
ancient mill with its wheel that has been restored by the Cinque Terre
National Park. Hypotheses about the origins of the town's name have
developed around the mill wheel.
You can enjoy lunch at one of the fish restaurants in the small square next to
the harbour. The harbor area is filled with colorful rowing boats and becomes
the main sunbathing and swimming spot of the village from morning until
dusk. In fact, this is the perfect place to spend a lazy day sunbathing and
watching people jumping off the cliffs. Although there is no real beach here, it
has some of the best deep-water swimming around.
Along the main road the boats are pulled onto dry land every time the sea is
rough. The village is all ups and downs, with steep narrow alleys carrugi,
leading to the sea”. (CinqueTerre.eu, 2024), (CinqueTerre.com, 2024)

“Riomaggiore is the most southern village of the Cinque Terre, situated just a
two minutes by train from Manarola. The town climbs up along the ridges
overlooking the sea and it is characterized from the typical stone houses with
coloured façades and slate-roofs.
In Riomaggiore starts the Via dell`Amore, Lover`s Lane, a wonderful path
known for the romantic atmosphere and amazing landscapes. It leads to
Manarola and it takes twenty minutes walking.
Stroll along the main street Via Colombo down to the sea, where a small
harbor, marina, is framed by lovely pastel houses and filled with brightly
coloured fishing boats. There is a pebble beach located near the boat
docking point and the picturesque harbor.
In Riomaggiore you can find the best spot to capture the sunset in Cinque
Terre. As the sun starts to set, many people gather to sit on the rocks by the
harbor”. (CinqueTerre.eu, 2024)
“Portovenere is a medieval fishing village situated in north Italy, just south of
the Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera. This charming village is well worth the
visit and can be reached from the Cinque Terre by boat or from La Spezia by
boat/bus.
Portovenere, on the Gulf of Poets, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its
picturesque harbor is lined with brightly colored houses while narrow
medieval streets lined with shops lead up the hill from the ancient city gate to
the castle.
The Church of San Pietro sits on a rocky promontory overlooking the sea. It
was built in 1277 in the typical Genovese Gothic style.
The Grotta di Byron, Byron's Cave, from which Lord Byron famously swam to
visit his friends in Lerici on the other side of the Gulf.
The Doria Castle with its powerful structure representing a wonderful model
of Genoan military architecture. The castle was first built in 1161, but it was
significantly reconstructed in 1458". (CinqueTerre.eu, 2024)

“Lerici. Although struggling with problems of overcrowding and traffic
restrictions the resort retains some of the atmosphere that once made it a
destination for romantic tourism. Particularly fascinating are the alleys and the
stairways that characterise the layout of the oldest district and the imposing
castle. There are two main religious buildings. The Oratory of San Rocco, in
Largo Marconi - beside Piazza Garibaldi, accessible from the marina - with a
14th-century bell tower with two bas-reliefs from the 16th century and, inside, on
the high altar, a beautiful 16th-century panel of Saints Martin bishop,
Christopher, Sebastian and Rocco; in the left aisle, Our Lady Health of the Sick,
an original painting on slate (16th century). The 17th-century church of San
Francesco, in Via Cavour, has remarkable altarpieces, almost all by the Genoese
school; the sacristy leads to the oratory of San Bernardino, where, according to
tradition, Bernardino of Siena preached from the small black slate pulpit. Along
the road that leads to Tellaro, a stretch of coastline of considerable
environmental value is bordered, with a clear seabed rich in vegetation. Located
between the points of Maramozza and Maralunga, the Caletta Underwater
Archaeological Park is an ideal place for diving to discover the remains of a
Roman merchant ship. On the stretch of craggy coastline between the headland
of Maralunga and Fiascherino, there are enchanting little beaches with a steep
descent”. (Italia.it, 2024)
“Tellaro is the easternmost district of the municipality of Lerici. The houses in
the historic centre are clustered on a rocky spur jutting out towards the sea, at
the end of which stands the delightful pastel-pink painted 16th century church of
St George. The writer Mario Soldati lived in the village for many decades and
dedicated pages full of affection to it. From the small square, a path leads to the
so-called Spiaggia, wild coves where you can swim in an unspoilt setting”.
(Italia.it, 2024)

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Lanzarote
We will now leave the Mediterranean Basin and travel to a place in the Atlantic
Ocean, which however holds the Mediterranean charm combined with the
Atlantic winds.
Lanzarote is different from other sunny and marine destinations. It`s an island
where nature and art prevail. A place where people are as warm as they are
active and proud. Where the food tastes like the sea and the earth. Where the
essence of the island leaves a mark on your soul long after you depart.
“Everyone laughed and didn`t understand me. Lanzarote was like a work of art
without framing. I put it on, showing its real value” - César Manrique.
Memories
Anastasia and I took the ferry from Fuerteventura to Lanzarote and I got motion
sickness (nausea and nothing else), which is a complete rarity for me. But after
we docked I came to my senses.
It was our dream to visit this island, so we were overwhelmed with emotions.
We drove to Arrecife (the capital of the island) and rented a scooter there. Next
up, we had a few days of adventure.
I immediately liked the archetype of the island very much, I got into it. We visited
many places from the list of recommendations, which you can find just below.
Driving on a perfect road with frozen lava everywhere around you is something
inexpressible. There were mostly clouds over the island all the time, which
created a special atmosphere.
The first thing we did was head to the green Lake Charco Verde, which can't fail
to impress.
The Piscina Natural didn't turn out to be crowded, probably because I chose the
ones a little away from the main. There were lots of red crabs and the sound of
the roaring ocean. “Rebooting” the head in such places happens very quickly. I
was running and jumping on the rocks like an Indian, screaming and hunting
crabs. I blended in with nature. Several times I got hit by waves at the edge of
the cliffs, it was very risky and Anastasia was very worried about me. After one
of the waves hit the rocks, I heard the words “I'll write a book after I arrive” and
they started repeating in my head.
Time forced us to keep going, so I found some rock pools where the wave didn't
hit and we went for a swim. To swim in such a place is an inexpressible emotion.
One evening we went to meet the sunset at a place where doing so on Lanzarote
is a necessity. It is the cliffs of Risco de Famara. As we drove there, we had the
impression that we were driving into the clouds. It was dark and rainy, so we
took a risk, but it never started to rain. We felt like we were in a film. Especially
when we got to the top and saw a view.
Visiting the various museums and architectural structures, as well as the villages
themselves, never ceased to amaze and arouse visual pleasure and aesthetics.
Each place gave an emotion.
The Lagomar Museum is one I'm particularly fond of.
The promenade along the Arrecife gives a Mediterranean feel, as does the
island's architecture, but with very special grace.

87
A brief history
“The first inhabitants of the island, known as mahos or majos, came from
North Africa and arrived in Lanzarote around the year 500 BC. They
maintained an economy based on agricultural and livestock activities,
complemented by shellfish harvesting and fishing, which have been
continued practicing in different forms until today.
Regarding the name of the island, Lanzarote, it should be noted that it comes
from the Genoese navigator Lancelotto Malocello, who rediscovered it at the
beginning of the 14th century.
The future of Lanzarote changed completely in September 1730. On that
date, and for just over five years, the earth cracked and began to vomit lava
and other volcanic elements that modified both the landscape and the
Lanzarote economy forever.
The Timanfaya eruptions covered several towns and fertile areas, causing
the emigration of part of the population. Furthermore, the territorial tragedy
triggered several periods of famine by destroying large fertile areas
dedicated to the cultivation of cereals.
During the second half of the 18th century, barbell cultivation was introduced
and the growth of the Puerto del Arrecife allowed a stage of economic
expansion. At the same time, the rofe expelled by the volcanoes began to be
prepared for the cultivation of vines, giving rise to the spectacular landscape
of La Geria, establishing what became the first winery in the Canary Islands:
Bodegas El Grifo.
The introduction of the cochineal as a new export product in the 1852 and
the promulgation of the Free Ports Law allowed the island to grow again and
enjoy a period of prosperity. The cochineal would be replaced a few decades
later by the canning industry and by products of fishing in the Canary-sub-
Saharan bank.

Based on a series of milestones, the 1960s marked a new turn in Lanzarote
history. The first occurred in 1965 when the first desalination plant in Europe
was installed on the island, which freed Lanzarote from the traditional
dependence on rain for its supply and allowed it to move towards new
economic sectors complementary to agriculture.
The second milestone took place in 1966 when the artist from Lanzarote
César Manrique returns to settle permanently on the island after his stay in
New York. Along with the President of the Island Council, José Ramírez
Cerdá, intends to turn Lanzarote into a tourist destination in which the
combination of the landscape, volcanic nature, traditional architecture and art
become defining elements of Lanzarote.
From then on, the island focuses on tourism that seeks something more than
beaches and good weather, tourism where art and nature come together in a
unique way in a series of centers that were created throughout Lanzarote”.
(Lanzarote.com, 2024)
3 main tips
Be sure to rent a car or scooter to be able to get around all the places, as
public transport will not allow you to do so.
Don't spare the money and time to visit the museums, they are all a work of
art here.
Get ready to witness something wondrous.

What to see?
“A visit to Timanfaya National Park is an essential part of any holiday to
Lanzarote. Attracting many tourists each year, this fascinating moonlike park
is filled with rare plants and exciting geological phenomena. Several
devastating eruptions between 1730 and 1736 formed the land as it is now,
with volcano Timanfaya still active. Look in awe at the beautiful natural
designs the lava has created and be amazed by the natural geothermal heat.
For the art (and history) lovers, this interesting homage to a much-loved
figure in Lanzarote`s history is well worth a visit. César Manrique was an
artist and architect born in Lanzarote. On his return from his American
travels, tourism had begun to bloom in Lanzarote, aware of its dangers,
César lobbied against the threats of tourism and had a major influence in
planning regulations. He encouraged a sympathetic development of tourism
which has resulted in a lack of high-rise buildings on the island.
There are two museums dedicated to him which include the Foundation of
César Manrique and the House Museum. The house museum, situated in the
handsome region of Haría, reflects the perfect solitude and harmony of
nature which inspired his art. The beautiful design is made up of white décor
and black volcanic rock with stark flashes of greenery. Basalt steps lead
down to a beautiful turquoise pool linked by volcanic passages. The
Foundation offers an exhibition of his work and a collection of other artists
from the Canary Islands.
Another work of César Manrique, and originally created to harvest the
cochineal beetle, Jardin de Cactus is home to over 4500 specimens, 450
species and 13 different families of cactus from 5 continents. A visit here
offers a peaceful day out, with its relaxing café, gift shop and eight metre
cacti statue not to miss. Simply meander through winding paths, lava rocks,
ponds and a windmill with singing birds as your backing track.
Where stark black volcanic sand meets fluorescent green lake and azure blue
ocean; Charco Verde (also known as Charco de los Clicos, or lake by the
sea) is a Lanzarote landmark not to miss. The unusual colour of the lake is
created by marine organisms in the water, seaweed and marine Ruppia. The
colour of the water changes depending on the weather and the time of day.
Overlooking La Graciosa and Salinas del Rio, Mirador del Rio is over 400
metres high with large glass windows, a bustling restaurant and an
unmissable viewing platform. Formerly a naval gun battery, the base was
converted by César Manrique; you can still see hidden remains of the military
base in the rocks.

Cueva De Los Verdes or ‘green caves’ lie just north of Haría. The 8km long
lava tube was left behind by the eruption of Monte Corona thousands of
years ago. The caves are quite an exceptional sight, beautiful lights illuminate
the magnificent caverns and the strange stalactites caused by air bubbles in
the lava are a sight to behold. The cave gives way to an impressive concert
hall where occasional music events take place, making use of the excellent
acoustics.
Jameos del Agua is a volcanic cave system located in the north east of
Lanzarote. A visit here is one of the best things to do in Lanzarote; in fact, it
has been described as the 8th wonder of the world by Hollywood legend Rita
Hayworth. Transformed by beloved artist César Manrique, you’ll find a unique
underground cave bar, a magnificent auditorium and a natural lake, home to
albino crabs.
Truly one of the most unique things to do in Lanzarote, Atlántico Museum is
located underwater. The first of its kind in Europe, a selection of cement
figures, slowly becoming reefs, are laid out 12 metres below the surface.
Designed by Jason de Caires Taylor, the sculptures can only be spotted by
scuba diving.
Feel the power of the ocean at Los Hervideros. See for yourself the true
power of the Atlantic Ocean as it crashes upon sea caves and volcanic cliffs.
It is a humbling experience as the power of the waves fills up sea caves and
spray your cheeks. Visit Piscina Natural, which are located nearby. If the
ocean is calm and the tide is out, you can swim, but remember that there is
always a risk.
Another César Manrique creation, alongside artist Jesus Soto, is the
Lagomar Museum. Discover an exotic style home built in to cliffs of
hardened lava with rooms in caves, corridors in tunnels and stark white
washed walls. Furnished with bits of shipwrecks and home to lush green
cacti surrounded a pretty blue pool. There is also a restaurant, bar and art
gallery. Visit it at sunset and you won`t be disappointed. During the 1970s,
actor Omar Sharif visited it to film "The Mysterious Island" and fell in love
with the island and LagOmar, the space that would become his home. After
two days of possession, he lost the house in a card game.

The current capital of Lanzarote, Arrecife is well worth a visit. One of the
best things to do in Arrecife is a visit to El Charco de San Gines, also knowns
as Venice of the Atlantic. This pretty lagoon is framed with cottages, tapas
restaurants and bars making it great for an afternoon stroll or a romantic
setting in which to enjoy the sunset. There is also a Saturday market in
Arrecife old quarter.
An amazing view point is offered to you apart from a tarred road at the cliffs
of Risco de Famara. Cueva de las Cabras (Cueva De Los Suecos) has also
received a google marker and although the path to this point is difficult you
can reach it with your car. Above the cliffs you will a have a broad view from
La Graciosa over the Atlantic Ocean to the Beach of Famara and over a large
area of the southern Landscape of Lanzarote. Your are very close to the
clouds and when they are not there this Mirador is an incredible place that
takes your breath away”. (ClassicCollection.co.uk, 2024)
Las Grietas is a relatively hidden gem when it comes to photo spots in
Lanzarote. These small canyons have been formed in Montaña Blanca by the
action of water over the years. If you plan to visit this place, make sure you
bring closed and non-slippery shoes, as there is a high risk of slipping.
Also be sure to visit different villages such as Yaiza, Tinajo and the rest to
get a feel for how the locals live.
There are also various beaches on the island, but Playa de Papagayo is the
most famous of them all.
91

100
Other places
There are many other places in the Mediterranean that are amazingly
beautiful.
Pino, Cala Figuera, Taormina, Nonza, Begur, Scopello, Ponza, Puglia region,
Nesso, Corfu, Tropea and many other places also have their own charm and
are worth a visit.
Pino, Corsica, France
Cala Figuera, Mallorca, Spain
Taormina, Sicily, Italy
Nonza, Corsica, France
Begur, Costa Brava, Spain
Scopello, Sicily, Italy

101
Ponza, Italy
Puglia region, Italy
Nesso, lake Como, Italy
Corfu, Greece
Tropea, Italy

Pino. “Pino's wealth in the past can be attributed to the strong emigration to
Puerto Rico and the purchasing power of Americanised Corsicans, who in
return built large Tuscan houses with four-pitched roofs with gardens (there
are fourteen palazzos in Pino) and grand tombs overlooking the sea”.
(Destination-Cap-Corse.corsica, 2024)
Cala Fugiera. “The fig trees radiate a lush green, the turquoise blue waters
shimmer and an azure blue sky arches over the horizon as the picturesque
backdrop at the fjord-like bay of Cala Figuera. This striking Y-shaped bay is
located on the Southeast coast Mallorca. The two inlets: Caló d'En Boira and
Caló d'En Busques are bounded by low cliffs. The bay was named after the
fig trees that characterise the landscape”. (Mallorca.com, 2024)
Taormina. “Settled on a hill of the Monte Tauro, Taormina dominates two
grand, sweeping bays below and on the southern side, the top of Mount Etna,
the European highest active volcano, often capped with snow, offering to the
visitors a breathtaking, dramatic and memorable view over almost one
hundred miles of Mediterranean sea. Taormina really seems to be born as a
tourist resort since past times, when ancient people like the Sicels, Greeks,
Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards chose it as
their residential site thank to its favourable position, mild climate and magic
atmosphere. Nowadays visitors can still find fine examples of Taormina’s
golden times: the splendid Greek Theatre, the Roman “Naumachiae”, the 10th
century Palazzo Corvaja, the 13th century Cathedral of Saint Nicolò, the 16th
century Palace of the Dukes of Saint Stefano, the public gardens, the “Badia
Vecchia” (Ancient Abbey) and many others”. (Taormina.it, 2024)
Nonza. “Located on the beautiful Corsica Cape, the picturesque village of
Nonza hangs over the sea on a striking cliff. The town's historic buildings are
incredibly well preserved, and the views of the ocean and the surrounding
mountainous countryside are simply breathtaking”. (ArrivalGuides.com, 2024)
Begur. “Positioned at the heart of the Empordà district, the town of Begur
and its beaches are one of the most wonderful spots on the Costa Brava. The
municipality is made up of a number of hills known as the Begur Massif, and a
stretch of coastline lapped by the waves of the Mediterranean.
Both Begur old town, with the numerous landmarks that represent the legacy
of key points in its history, and the small Romanesque settlement of Esclanyà,
as well as the eight coves and small beaches that lie within its boundaries,
make up a setting of unrivalled landscape.
In addition to this landscape, you will also find the characteristic “casas
indianas” with colonial style. These houses were built by the “Indians,” locals
who crossed the Atlantic Ocean to reach the American continent, fleeing the
economic crisis of the time, and upon their return, they constructed these
houses with architectural references from the places they visited”.
(VisitBegur.cat, 2024), (CatalunyaTurisme.cat, 2024)
Scopello. “The Tonnara di Scopello is a rare and sincere testimony to tuna
fishing and the history of the Mediterranean. A unique place steeped in
history and tradition protected by the rocks and embraced by the sea”.
(TonnaraDiScopello.it, 2024)
102

Ponza. Colourful houses, breathtaking views, wildlife and Grotte di Pilato
(these Roman-era caves were fish hatcheries where moray eels were mainly
bred), this is how the island of Ponza can be characterised. It is a must to
explore from the water, as there are many places that are not accessible
from the coast.
Puglia region. Puglia region (same Apulia) is the sunny region between two
seas and warm hospitality in places rich in history. Here you will find the
simplicity and good-naturedness of the people, towns painted in white, an
incredible bluff coastline and the famous village Alberobello.
Nesso. “One of the most beautiful places on the marvellous Lake Como is
undoubtedly the small and picturesque village of Nesso. A village with an
ancient flavour, a little jewel in the rock, located along the road that connects
Como with Bellagio. Located on the west coast of the triangle of Lariano, the
strip of land between the two arms of Lake Como. Nesso stands at the point
where the two streams Tuf and Nose merge together to form a picturesque
waterfall that flows inside the charming Orrido di Nesso”.
(NeUnViaggioInfiniteEmozioni.it, 2024)
Corfu. Chic and delicate by nature, Corfu has an unsurpassed natural beauty.
The sea, the sun and the wind have carved an impressive shoreline on the
island. The island is buried in greenery, but also has an interesting history
and architecture: for a long time it belonged to Italy, so you are sure to find
similarities here. Be sure to make time for the island's capital, Kerkyra, it will
surprise you with its atmosphere during your evening stroll.
Tropea. “The charming historic town is perched on top of a cliff that towers
above the mesmerising blue and turquoise waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Tropea has borne witness to the rise and fall of the Ancient Greek authority,
the Byzantines, Roman Empire, the Normans and more. With a history laced
with the thread of Greek mythology, legend has it that Hercules declared
Tropea to be one of his ports along the 40km of La Costa degli Dei - The
Golden Coast of the Gods”. (Citalia.com, 2024)
103

104
Final
Unfortunately, there is a limited number of antique coins to find and
unique places to visit. Human beings are designed in a way that we can
only enjoy what is limited. Apparently, there is a long process of evolution
waiting for us.
The places described in this book are the result of the labors of many
generations of people, the miracle of nature and centuries of history. Let's
appreciate and protect them.
Now the challenge is not where to go, but who to go with.
Everyone dreams of a house by the sea, but most can not even imagine nor
determine how it will look like and on what coast it will stand. How will they
build it then?
Memories are like a journal: open, flip through and close. How interesting
this magazine will be depends only on us.

Amalfi Coast
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Capri
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Grand Tour
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Kotor Bay
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From: https://www.visitmontenegro.com/destinations/kotor/attractions/oldtown-kotor/

Lanzarote
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Other places
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2.Mallorca, 2024. Cala Figuera [online]. [cit. 2024-03-01]. From:
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https://www.taormina.it/
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nza-121695
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7.TonnaraDiScopello, 2024. Scopello [online]. [cit. 2024-03-01]. From:
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8.NeUnViaggioInfiniteEmozioni, 2024. Nesso. By Elisa Polini [online]. [cit.
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9.Citalia, 2024. Tropea Holidays [online]. [cit. 2024-03-01]. From:
https://www.citalia.com/holidays/italy/calabria/tropea/

Portofino coast (Portofino I + Cinque Terre II)
1.DiscoverGenoa, 2023. Portofino Italy. By Andrea Semonella [online]. [cit. 2024-
03-01]. From: https://discovergenoa.com/portofino-italy/
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https://www.cinqueterre.eu.com/en/manarola
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https://www.italia.it/en/liguria/tellaro

Santorini
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Venice
1.Italia, 2024. Venice [online]. [cit. 2024-03-01]. From:
https://www.italia.it/en/veneto/venice
2.VeniceByVenetians, 2018. A brief history of Venice. By Dario [online]. [cit.
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3.VeniceLover, 2024. What to do in Venice Italy [online]. [cit. 2024-03-01].
From: https://venicelover.com/things_to_do_venice_italy.html

The Mediterranean region is one of the most developed regions of the Old
World and carries a crucial historical significance. It is a region of lightness, yet
flashiness. A region where people truly have the enjoyment of life,
although that doesn't mean that their lives are easy and carefree. A region of
complex contexts and cultures, incredible art and architecture. A region of the
smell of the sea and delicious food. It takes a lot more to understand it than
many travellers think. Centuries of layered history cannot be understood
sitting in a hotel.
I offer you my list of places that I think are the most incredible in the
Mediterranean region.
Once when I was a kid, I told my parents: it doesn't matter how nice the windows
look, as long as they look out to sea. I remembered this phrase in Liguria, when I saw
the fake painted windows, typical of the region. As you can see, it's much more
complicated than I thought as a kid. The places described in this book will make you
think and discover something new in yourself while you observe the incredible
beauty of nature and the greatness of human culture, breathing in the relaxing
Mediterranean air.
"At certain periods of the evening and the morning the blue of the Mediterranean surpasses all
conception or description. It is the most intense and wonderful colour, I do believe, in all nature" -
Charles Dickens