(49) The Cultured Traveller, March-May 2025 Issue 49

➤ ISSUE 49
MARCH - MAY 2025
UK £10 EU €10
Luang
Prabang
A CITY TIPTOEING THROUGH TIME
LJUBLJANA’S FOOD SCENE ➤ BÜRGENSTOCK’S ROYAL SUITE
CAPRI ➤ GALLE FORT ➤ SAUSKA’S TOKAJ WINERY
MAURO COLAGRECO AT RAFFLES LONDON

CREATE ENDLESS
MEMORIES
Luxury and style in the heart of Southeast Asia

BED &
BREAKFAST

ISSUE 49 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2025
highlights
48 A CITY GENTLY TIPTOEING
THROUGH TIME
A guardian of tradition and monastic pageantry, tucked into northern Laos at
the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, Nicholas Chrisostomou
is beguiled by the former Laotian royal capital of LUANG PRABANG, which
uniquely balances the sacred and the colonial, the Lao and the European, the
traditional and the present. Photography by Aarin Husain.
104 THE ISLAND OF ETERNAL
ENCHANTMENT
Kevin Pilley explores the sun-drenched island of CAPRI, where sheer
limestone cliffs plunge into a sapphire sea, ancient villas whisper scandalous
secrets, and winding paths lead to breathtaking vistas – each step a journey
through a world of myth, indulgence, and timeless Mediterranean allure.
121 A NEW ERA FOR TOKAJ
WINE IN HUNGARY
Just over 200 kilometres from Budapest, The Cultured Traveller visits
SAUSKA's cutting-edge Tokaj wine estate, where history, terroir, and
innovation converge in a striking new architectural landmark that has
reshaped the landscape.
46 WIN FOUR NIGHTS IN
KIRAZLIYAYLA FOREST
Set amidst pine trees in Uludağ National Park, SWISSÔTEL ULUDAĞ BURSA
is a tranquil new mountain retreat and luxury wellness spa, surrounded by
gorgeous nature.

Known locally as Tak Bat, every morning in Luang Prabang, people kneel and offer alms, usually in the form of food,
to processions of Buddhist monks. This practice has a deep history and holds significant meaning in Luang Prabang

116
104
CONTENTS
64
121
48
8 CONTRIBUTORS
10 EDITOR’S LETTER
12 NEWSFLASH
From the Spanish city of València's
annual burning of giant puppets,
LAS FALLAS to India's ancient
Hindu celebration of the triumph
of good over evil, HOLI, and the
ultimate party in Amsterdam,
held in honour of the Dutch King's
birthday, KONINGSDAG, The
Cultured Traveller rounds up the
standout festivals and cultural
events happening around the world
during the coming months.
28 REST YOUR HEAD
From SINGITA's new safari lodge,
28
set in the heart of Tanzania's Serengeti,
affording guests front row seats to The
Great Migration, to the GBP 1.5 billion
six-year reimagination of London's
storied Old War Offices, transforming
them into a plush RAFFLES HOTEL,
The Cultured Traveller checks into a
dozen rather special places, around the
world, to rest your head.
70 SUITE ENVY:
BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT
High above Lake Lucerne, where
the crisp alpine air meets a legacy of
refinement, Nicholas Chrisostomou
road-tests the resort's one-of-a-kind
ROYAL SUITE, where a world of
hushed opulence unfolds, and timeless
elegance and contemporary luxury
converge in perfect accord.
6 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

70 90
44
80 ART CULTURE:
DAN KITCHENER
Also known as DANK and renowned for his
neon-drenched murals of East Asian urban
landscapes, The Cultured Traveller chats
with the celebrated British street artist
about his inspiration, travels, and work.
90 SPOTLIGHT: GALLE FORT
An ancient promontory by the sea, just a
few hours' drive from the island nation's
capital, Nicholas Chrisostomou is drawn
back to Sri Lanka’s 16th century living fort.
116 TASTE & SIP REVIEW
In the stately surrounds of Whitehall,
Joe Mortimer is seduced by MAURO
COLAGRECO's quintessentially British
fine dining restaurant, where menus shift
with the seasons and humble vegetables
rule the roost.
126 TASTE & SIP FOOD SCENE
From traditional dishes to cutting-edge
culinary creations, with local winemakers
and innovative chefs leading the way,
The Cultured Traveller uncovers why the
Slovenian capital of LJUBLJANA is a
must-visit for food lovers.
139 LITTLE BLACK BOOK
Web addresses for everywhere featured
in issue 49 of The Cultured Traveller
magazine.
140 SUITE WITH A VIEW
Perched amongst the treetops overlooking
the Upper Seletar Reservoir and merging
effortlessly with the rainforest canopy,
MANDAI RAINFOREST RESORT's
unique treehouses draw architectural
inspiration from the seed pods of the
handsome Purple Millettia.
80
34
126 66

JOE MORTIMER
➤ WROTE ABOUT ➤ MAURO COLAGRECO
AT RAFFLES LONDON
A UK travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury
travel and high-end hospitality, and former editor of
Destinations of the World News, Joe is an avid wine
enthusiast who spent most of lockdown studying for
his WSET Level 3 exams. When he is not operating a
corkscrew, Joe can usually be found wandering around
the Mendip Hills or planning his next great adventure.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ
DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL
EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN
ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING
RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI
THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS
Joe Mortimer, Aarin Husain, Kevin Pilley, Howard Healy
WITH THANKS TO
Arsen Novosel, Jason Friedman, Lee Sutton
Amarilli Wiseman, Gregor Banič, Simeon Gönc
Ksenija Mravlja, Chris Franzen, Marko Fluka
CONTRIBUTORS
KEVIN PILLEY
➤ WROTE ABOUT ➤ CAPRI, ITALY
UK-based Kevin Pilley is a former professional
cricketer and was Punch magazine's chief staff writer.
His humour, travel, food and drink work
appears in magazines and online worldwide,
and he has been published in close to 800 titles.
And now The Cultured Traveller!
AARIN HUSAIN
➤ PHOTOGRAPHED LUANG PRABANG, LAOS
Based in The Golden City of Jaisalmer in the
western Indian state of Rajasthan, with a
youthful, keen eye for detail and deftly able to
capture candid photos, Aarin has been shooting
photos and taking video since he was old enough
to hold a camera, and has already created three
covers for The Cultured Traveller.
The Cultured Traveller
is published by Coco Latté, London
Advertising and sponsorship enquiries:
ads@theculturedtraveller.com
Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com
Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
➤ ISSUE 49
Issue 49 ©️ 2025 Coco Latté. All rights reserved
Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine
is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced
without written permission from the publisher.
The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of
its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily
shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.
The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions,
but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles,
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Read issue 49 of The Cultured Traveller here
➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/49
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@theculturedtraveller @culturedtraveller
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQ.
LONDON W2 1AY, UK
COVER: A monk walking towards The Royal Palace Museum
in Luang Prabang, which was once Laos' Royal Palace.
Photographed by Aarin Husain.
8 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

SLOVENIA.
MY WAY
OF DREAMING
ABOUT OUR NEXT
URBAN TRIP.
#ifeelsLOVEnia
#myway
#sloveniaculture
www.slovenia.info

From left to right: Mauro Colagreco
at Raffles London; Haw Pha Bang
temple, Luang Prabang; Capri ; Shinjuku
Nights by Dan Kitchener (2023)
EDITOR’S LETTER
ONE OF THE MANY DELIGHTS
of travelling is realising that a
destination enamours so much,
you will most certainly return.
Whereupon you can take your
foot off the peddle, slow down
the sightseeing, and relax into
the pace of the place, safe in the
knowledge that you’ll be back.
The last time I felt this was
in Beijing – China’s sprawling
city of emperors, dragons and
palaces. Almost one-year later to
the day, it happens to me again
in Laos’ former royal capital, but
for entirely different reasons.
TUCKED INTO NORTHERN
Laos at the confluence of the
Mekong and Nam Khan rivers,
Luang Prabang is surely one of few places left in
the world where time is measured not in minutes
or hours, but in the slow turning of the seasons,
and the rhythm of saffron-robed monks’ gentle
footsteps at dawn. A city of mist-laced mornings
and golden twilight, while it is refreshingly
detached from the modern world, Luang Prabang
is not entirely untouched by time, but cradling
it, trying hard to preserve it, and wearing it with
grace, while allowing visitors to experience its many
charms (page 48).
Also in our forty-ninth issue, first-time
contributor Kevin Pilley, explores the famed
Italian island of Capri, where sheer limestone
cliffs plunge into sapphire waters, ancient villas
whisper scandalous secrets, and winding paths and
hundreds of steps lead to breathtaking vistas (page
104). Celebrated British street artist Dan Kitchener,
takes time out of painting murals around the world,
to chat with The Cultured Traveller about the
inspiration for his striking,
neon-soaked works (page
80). And dedicated foodie
and wine afficionado, Joe
Mortimer, steps through
an oak doorway on Horse
Guards Avenue for an
evening at Mauro Colagreco
at Raffles London – the first
UK outpost of the muchawarded
Argentine chef,
where menus shift with the
British seasons and humble
vegetables are the stars of the
show (page 116).
AS ALWAYS, I HOPE THAT
you find something in the
next hundred or so pages,
to tempt you to travel to
somewhere you haven't yet visited, plan an epic
adventure to a far-away land, sample a cuisine
which is new to your palette, or seek out an artist
whose work you haven't seen before.
Happy, inspiring, and cultured travels to you,
Nicholas Chrisostomou
Editor-in-Chief
@TCTEditor
nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com
10 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

INSPIRED BY WRITERS,
crafted FOR CONNOISSEURS
A quiet corner for musings, muses and masterful mixology.
https://www.raffles.com/jaipur/
To know more, connect with us at reservations.jaipur@raffles.com

news
FROM THE SPANISH CITY OF VALÈNCIA'S ANNUAL
BURNING OF GIANT PUPPETS, TO INDIA'S ANCIENT
HINDU CELEBRATION OF THE TRIUMPH OF GOOD OVER
EVIL, AND THE ULTIMATE PARTY IN AMSTERDAM, HELD IN HONOUR
OF THE DUTCH KING'S BIRTHDAY, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
ROUNDS UP THE STANDOUT FESTIVALS AND CULTURAL EVENTS
HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD DURING THE COMING MONTHS
ITB BERLIN
LAS FALLAS
ATTRACTING VISITORS
from around the world
to the port city of
València, which lies on
Spain’s southeastern coast, this loud and
exuberant celebration, which involves
masses of fireworks and the burning of giant
puppets, is held in honour of St. Joseph’s Day
on 19th March. Las Fallas is believed to have
originated in a pagan celebration of the
spring equinox, and is first recorded as
having been held in the late 15th century.
Each neighbourhood in València funds the
construction of its own falla – the wood and
papier-mâché sculptures at the heart of the
fiesta, which are often 15 metres tall and
sometimes poke fun at local and international
politicians and celebrities. The fallas are
placed at key points around the city, so
people can wander around and enjoy them,
before they are burned on night of the final
day, accompanied by stacks of fireworks.
1-19 March 2025
www.visitvalencia.com
THE WORLD'S LARGEST
tourism trade fair may
provide the necessary
inspiration for your next
cultured travelling experience! ITB Berlin is billed
as a trip around the globe in a few hours and an
opportunity to explore destinations in more than
150 countries. With thousands of exhibitors, ITB
can sometimes be a bit testing to navigate, but
thankfully it’s made easier by the fair being
divided into regions and thematic sections,
including responsible tourism, business travel,
cultural tourism, adventure travel, medical
tourism, travel technology and LGBT+ travel. A
map of the exhibition is helpfully available online
so that visitors can plan what to see before
arriving. This mammoth event often has
surprises around every corner, so expect
everything from flamenco dancing to henna
hand-painting, massages to cooking
demonstrations and dance music to folk dancing.
For travel industry professionals there are also
press conferences, talks, product presentations
and networking events. 4-6 March 2025
www.itb-berlin.de
12 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

NEWSFLASH
HOLI
MARKING THE
beginning of spring
in India, this ancient
Hindu ritual is
essentially a two-day celebration of the
triumph of good over evil. Also known
as the ‘Festival of Colours’ due to the
bright powder participants throw at each
other, the proceedings begin with the
lighting of Holika bonfires, symbolising
how the god Vishnu helped burn the devil
Holika, according to Hindu scriptures.
The following day, Rangwali Holi is when
people delight in covering their neighbours
in water and a rainbow of gulal, or paint
powder. Apparently, Lord Krishna, a
reincarnation of Lord Vishnu, liked to prank
village girls in this fashion. While Holi is
observed throughout the world, the best
places to experience this festival are
undoubtedly India and Nepal, especially
Delhi, Varanasi, Vrindavan and Jaipur.
14 March 2025
http://incredibleindia.com
TAGATA HŌNEN MATSURI
HELD ANNUALLY AT THE
Tagata Shrine in the city
of Komaki, just north of
Nagoya in Aichi
Prefecture, Hōnen Matsuri is essentially a
fertility festival marked every year on the
fifteenth of March and watched by
worshippers of all ages. In Japanese hōnen
means ‘prosperous year’ implying a rich
harvest and a matsuri is a festival. The Tagata
Shrine is thought to date back 1,500 years and
houses a female kami (or ‘god’) which
embodies fertility and renewal. The grounds
are strewn with phallic-shaped rocks,
tastefully arranged amongst shady bushes
and trees, while the shrine itself contains a
selection of wooden members of varying
sizes. The festival's main event centres on a
somewhat lively procession of a two-metre
wooden phallus, known as O-owasegata,
which is carved annually from white cedar,
housed in a mikoshi (portable shrine), and
carried to the main shrine on the shoulders of
a group of men aged 42. Throughout the
procession, sake is freely distributed by
cheerful volunteers in close proximity to the
main attraction, so it’s wise to walk a few
metres away of the giant phallus if you plan to
attend this festival!
15 March 2025
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
13

NEWSFLASH
SONGKRAN
ORIGINALLY HELD ON DATES
that were dependent upon the
Thai lunar calendar, Songkran
was originally a way for Thai
people to sprinkle water on their family members to
bring good fortune, as well as pay their respects to
images of their beloved Buddha. Also known as Thai
New Year, Songkran is today commemorated on the
same days every year, and has transitioned into a
countrywide festival punctuated by friendly water
fights and street parties lasting nearly a week.
13-15 April 2025

SNOWBOMBING
OFTEN REFERRED TO AS
the ‘Glastonbury of mountain
gatherings’ and traditionally
held towards the end of the
annual European ski season, Snowbombing takes
place in the stunning Austrian resort of Mayrhofen
in the heart of the Tirol. Boasting breathtaking
mountain scenery of the Zillertaler Alps, days are
spent skiing, boarding, and enjoying music in
mountain-top locations, while feasting on
sumptuous spreads and relaxing in saunas and
spas. Nights herald a completely different
experience, with cutting-edge performances
happening in a host of unique alpine venues, from
pools and sky-high igloos to enchanted forest
clearings and mountain stage sets. The DJ line-up
for 2025 includes British rock band The Prodigy,
which first emerged in the early 1990s and has since
achieved worldwide recognition, and American DJ,
record producer, remixer and songwriter, Armand
Van Helden, who is considered to be one of house
music's most revered figures, with a career spanning
three decades. 7-12 April 2025
www.snowbombing.com
SANTA CLARITA
COWBOY
FESTIVAL
DATING BACK
centuries and symbolic
of American West
culture, cowboys are
synonymous with Texas and California. Even
today, from South Texas’ mesquite trees to
the Panhandle’s open prairies, there are
cowboys hard at work. Every year since 1994,
about thirty minutes north of Los Angeles,
the city of Santa Clarita is home to one of the
world’s biggest annual cowboy gatherings.
Staged to celebrate the state of California’s
western heritage, family-friendly actionpacked
festival routinely attracts thousands
of loyal attendees for its multiple live music
stages, authentic western activities, trick
ropers, gun spinners and magicians, gold
panning and hatchet throwing, as well as
living history exhibits and an array of stalls
selling Western gear. And the festival’s Dutch
oven peach cobbler is reputedly so tasty that
it has earned a reputation of its own!
12-13 April 2025
www.cowboyfestival.org
16 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

NEWSFLASH
F1 BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX
A MAINSTAY OF
the F1 calendar, the
Bahrain race is a
highlight of the
Grand Prix season, for the atmospheric
night-time 57-lap race is held at the famous
5.4-kilometre Grand Prix Track designed by
German architect Hermann Tilke, who also
designed the Sepang International Circuit
in Malaysia. Fans can usually expect great
racing and decent amounts of overtaking
in Bahrain, where the drivers have to
contend with wind, racing under floodlights
and the difficulty of finding a decent set-up
within the wide temperature fluctuations
between sessions. The track’s most
challenging point is the tight, downhill
off-camber Turn 10 left-hander. Meanwhile
the fast run through Turn 12 is another
highlight, allowing drivers to really feel
their cars coming alive. 13 April 2025
www.bahraingp.com
ROUKETOPOLEMOS
IT IS PERHAPS IMPLAUSIBLE
to believe that on an idyllic
Greek island, one of the most
important dates in the
Christian calendar is marked in a rather crazy fashion.
But this is the case on Chios. On the island’s eastern
end, in the small town of Vrontados, many of the
residents are ship owners or shipbuilders and legend
has it that Christopher Columbus spent time here to
learn how to use maritime charts. Other folklore
relates that the Greek poet Homer was born or lived
near Vrontados. In any event, amidst the olive trees
and almond groves of this breezy seaside village are
the churches of St. Mark's and Panaghia Ereithiani,
built on hilltops around 400 metres apart. Like many
proximate parishes around the world, there is a little
rivalry between these two houses of worship and their
respective congregations. But on Chios this is settled
once a year with a rocket war on the night before
Greek Easter Sunday, throughout which, as literally
thousands of fireworks are being shot between the
two, congregants go to church. The origin of
Rouketopolemos is unclear, but it apparently dates
back to the Ottoman era. The winning village is the
one which scores the most direct hits on the other's
church! Kelley Rourke.
19 April 2025
www.chios.gr/en
LONDON MARATHON
WHEN 6,747 PEOPLE WERE
accepted to run the inaugural
London marathon on 29th
March 1981, and 6,255 crossed
the finish line on Constitution Hill, a sporting
phenomenon was born. Since then, the London
Marathon Foundation has awarded more than GBP
110 million to projects that inspire activity. The 2025
TCS London Marathon on Sunday 27th April will be
the 45th edition of the globally-famous race. World
record holder Ruth Chepngetich (Kenya), Olympic
silver medallist Tigst Assefa (Ethiopia), and the
surprise 2023 London champion Sifan Hassan
(Netherlands) will head the race’s elite women's field.
Meanwhile, the men's race includes the secondfastest
marathoner in history – the peerless Eliud
Kipchoge (Kenya). Even if you're not running, it's
worth making the effort to get into the British capital
to soak up the atmosphere on London's streets. Live
music, food and entertainment line the 26 miles and
385 yards, as well as thousands of spectators
cheering on the runners, many of whom, running for
charity, are dressed in zany costumes . 27 April 2025
www.londonmarathonevents.co.uk
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
17

AFRIKABURN
HELD IN A SEMI-DESERT
environment in Tankwa Karoo
National Park, in South Africa’s
Northern Cape Province, while
AfrikaBurn is nowhere near as large as Burning Man,
this spectacular festival is the result of the creative
expression of participants who gather to create a
temporary city of art, themed camps, costume,
music and performance, with some of the structures
burned towards the end.
28 April - 4 May 2025
www.afrikaburn.com

NEWSFLASH
19

KONINGSDAG
THE NETHERLANDS’
annual celebration of the
monarch’s birthday, known
as Koningsdag, or King’s
Day, originated in 1885 as Prinsessedag
(Princess’s Day) in honour of Princess
Wilhelmina, and became Koninginnedag
(Queen’s Day) when she ascended the throne.
The date shifted to 30 April under Queen
Juliana and remained unchanged during Queen
Beatrix’s reign, despite her January birthday. In
2013, King Willem-Alexander restored the
tradition, when he succeeded his mother as
monarch. Today, festivities unfold nationwide,
with Amsterdam at the heart of the revelry.
Indeed, the capital transforms into an open-air
party, as canals brim with orange-clad revellers
aboard music-filled boats and live
performances abound, while the city's parks
host more family-friendly activities. Throughout,
the colour orange, a tribute to the House of
Orange-Nassau, dominates attire, decorations,
and even food and drink.
27 April 2025 www.holland.com
WALPURGISNACHT
ALTHOUGH THERE ARE
many variations of
Witches' Night
(Walpurgisnacht), this
festival is usually celebrated with dancing and
bonfires on 30th April or 1st May in central and
northern Europe. It is held exactly six months
after All Hallows' Eve, more commonly known as
Halloween. And, like Halloween, Walpurgis has its
roots in ancient pagan customs, including
celebrating the arrival of spring with bonfires at
night, since the night of 30th April is halfway
between the spring equinox and summer
solstice. In Germany, Walpurgisnacht is the night
when the witches gather together at the
Hexentanzplatz (witches' dance), from where
they fly up as one to Mount Brocken where they
convene with the devil. Legend says that evil
ghosts represented by cold weather, snow and
darkness meet with witches and demons in the
Harz mountains. Their sinister cavortings around
the fire are said to reunite them with the devil.
Whilst this may sound like a load of superstitious
nonsense, people from all over Germany head to
Blocksberg mountain on 30th April, many
dressed as witches, to mark Walpurgisnacht
and celebrate the arrival of Spring.
30 April 2025
RHEIN IN FLAMMEN
EVERY YEAR, THE
picturesque River Rhine in
Germany is lit up by dramatic
and elaborate firework shows,
in five different locations along this great, historic
waterway. For onlookers, this multi-faceted event
is nothing short of spectacular. Rhein In Flammen
(Rhine in flames) kicks-off with the Bonn
extravaganza on the first Saturday in May. Held at
Rheinauen Park, thousands of fluorescent red
Bengal fires light the way downstream for a fleet of
dozens of decorated and illuminated ships along a
26 kilometre stretch – the longest part of any Rhine
in Flames spectacle. While many board ships to
see the displays from the water and feel more
immersed in the incredible pageant, there are
plenty of places to watch the fireworks along
Bonn’s promenade. Meanwhile along the river's
banks, wine festivals attract locals and visitors
alike and keep everyone suitably merry late into
the night. 3 May 2025 in Bonn
www.rhein-in-flammen.com
20 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

NEWSFLASH
BRIGHTON FESTIVAL
OVER THE YEARS, THE
Brighton Festival has
firmly established itself
as an annual celebration
of music, theatre, dance, circus, art, film and
literature, as well as a great supporter of the
arts. Held annually in the bohemian British
seaside city since 1967, the festival is a
veritable creative cornucopia of world-class
art and entertainment happenings, including
debates, musical concerts and theatrical
performances. Many of the festival’s events
are specially commissioned and enjoy their
first public outings every May. Previous
guest directors of this critically acclaimed
mixed arts fest have included actress
Vanessa Redgrave, artist Anish Kapoor, and
cartoonist David Shrigley. This year, the
Grammy-nominated sitarist, classical and
contemporary musician, composer and
activist Anoushka Shankar will be acting as
the festival’s guest director, and will lead a
huge multi-arts line-up. 3-26 May 2025
www.brightonfestival.org
Anoushka Shankar
THRISSUR
POORAM
ELEPHANT
FESTIVAL
KNOWN AS THE
cultural capital of the
Indian state of Kerala
and rich in history,
brimming in cultural heritage and boasting
a wealth of archaeological treasures,
Thrissur’s annual elephant festival
attracts those with a weakness for
colourful Indian celebrations that both
delight and assault the senses at the
same time. In a region in which elephants
are a common feature of religious
festivities, Thrissur Pooram stands out as
an observance that is especially endowed
with the presence of these giants which
are, of course, the main attraction,
decorated with gleaming golden
headdresses, ornamental bells, palm
leaves, peacock feathers and beautiful
intricate paintings. Ornate parasols –
carried by the elephant riders on tall
bamboo poles – add to the stunning,
overall visual feast of it all, complete with
fireworks, folk dancing, revelry and plenty
of drumming. 5-7 May 2025
www.thrissurpooramfestival.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
21

PROCESSIONE DEI SERPARI
ALSO KNOWN AS THE ‘SNAKE FESTIVAL’,
Italy’s Procession of Serpents is held in
celebration of Saint Domenico, for miraculously
removing serpents from farmers' fields in the
Italian region of Abruzzo in the 11th century. Every year, the people of
the small, medieval town of Cocullo, in the Province of L’Aquila in
Abruzzo, catch four types of harmless snakes which are then draped
over a wooden statue of Saint Domenico until it is almost completely
covered, at which point it is carried through the streets, held high in
the centre of a long procession.
1 May 2025

NEWSFLASH

GIRONA FLOWER
FESTIVAL
LOCATED IN CATALONIA
beside the River Onyar,
the historic Spanish city
of Girona is best known
for its medieval architecture, walled Old
Quarter and the Roman remains of Força
Vella fortress. But for ten days every year,
Girona's buildings, courtyards, monuments
and gardens are adorned with more than one
hundred somewhat spectacular floral
displays and arrangements, staged alongside
a programme of traditional Spanish events
and culinary happenings. Whole streets
become art installations, accompanied by
music, lights, fountains and the intoxicating
scent of thousands of flowers. Befitting its
status and central location on the city’s
bustling square of Plaça del Vi, Girona’s town
hall always comes up with a well-executed
and rather fantastic display. Throughout its
flower festival, the wonderful ensembles of
striking colours and penetrating aromas that
accompany the cultural heritage of this
beautiful Catalan city, make Girona a must
visit destination. 10-18 May 2025
FERIA DE ABRIL
SEVILLE’S MOST
well-known festival, The
Feria de Abril, or April
Fair, traced its origins to
1847, when it began as a livestock market. Over
time, it evolved into a grand social event,
blending Andalusian traditions with vibrant
festivities. Initially held in Prado de San
Sebastián, it moved to the purpose-built Real
de la Feria in the 1970s, where it remains today.
Modern celebrations last a week, beginning
with the alumbrao a ceremonial lighting of
thousands of bulbs at the fairground entrance.
Rows of casetas privately owned marquees
line the streets, hosting gatherings filled with
music, dance, and local cuisine. Flamenco-clad
sevillanas and elegantly dressed horse riders
add to the spectacle. Afternoons feature
equestrian parades, while evenings bring
energetic performances and amusement
rides. Public tents welcome visitors keen to
experience the lively atmosphere, ensuring
that the occasion remains both a timehonoured
tradition and an open invitation to all.
6-11 May 2025
www.visit-andalucia.com
24 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

NEWSFLASH
Nemo, Eurovision's
2024 winner
HAY FESTIVAL
WALES
Carlos Alcaraz
EUROVISION
SONG CONTEST
THANKS TO NEMO
notching up a third win
for their country in 2024
with The Code, the
country where it all started, when
Switzerland first won the contest in 1956, will
again host the Eurovision in 2025, in St.
Jakobshalle, Basel. Often questioned as to
whether it is a song contest or in fact a
political platform, it will be the 69th edition of
the Le Grand-Prix Eurovision de la Chanson
Européenne (as the contest is also known),
and today the competition is as popular as
ever, having gleaned a new generation of
followers in recent years. As we went to
press, a total of 37 European countries have
confirmed their participation in the 2025
Eurovision, including Montenegro, which
returns after a two-year absence.
17 May 2025
https://neurovision.tv
FOR TEN DAYS ANNUALLY
at the end of May, when
the playful British
weather is most likely to
be bright and sunny, thousands of literary
buffs, young and old alike, descend upon
Hay-on-Wye in Wales' beautiful Brecon
Beacons National Park, essentially to sit and
read books. The now world-famous Hay
Festival celebrates great writing from poets
and scientists, lyricists and comedians,
novelists and environmentalists, not to
mention the power of great ideas to transform
peoples' way of thinking. Hay strives to give
everyone from children to professors an
opportunity to enjoy the energy of the written
word. The 2025 edition sports a varied
programme, punctuated by a number of
events featuring internationally acclaimed
novelists with new work. You can also catch
British soul and R&B legend Billy Ocean Billy
Ocean in concert, performing all of his
greatest hits. One of the biggest recording
stars Britain has ever produced, Ocean
recently released his 40th anniversary album,
Suddenly. 22 May - 1 June 2025
www.hayfestival.com/wales
ROLAND-GARROS
THE FRENCH OPEN IS
held over two weeks at
the Stade Roland-Garros
in Paris. It is currently the
only Grand Slam tournament in the world on
clay. Located at the edge of the Bois de
Boulogne and the Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil
and named after the French aviator Roland
Garros, the venue for the French Open was
built in 1928 to accommodate French players'
appearances in the Davis Cup. Expanded and
updated many times over the years, the
stadium today covers 12 hectares and has 18
clay courts, including its Philippe-Chatrier
central court which now has a retractable roof
and floodlights. This year’s tournament will
see Carlos Alcaraz defending the Roland-
Garros title he won in 2024 by defeating
defeating Alexander Zverev in five sets, at the
same time making three-surface history to
become the youngest man to earn a major
trophy on clay, hard, and grass.
19 May - 8 June 2025
www.rolandgarros.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
25

26

NEWSFLASH
CINCO DE MAYO
COMMEMORATING THE MILITARY
victory of the Mexicans over the
French on 5th May 1862, the
festival of Cinco de Mayo is
celebrated in the state of Puebla with costumed
paraders, Mexican dancers, happy children, mariachi
bands, parties and dancing filling the streets. If you
happen to be in Puebla for Cinco de Mayo, be sure to
sample mole poblano, which is turkey or chicken
covered with a deliciously thick green chili sauce.
5 May 2025
www.visitmexico.com

SERENGETI TANZANIA
rest your
➤ SERENGETI ➤ SANTORINI ➤ PENANG ➤ LOWER HUTT ➤ TOKYO ➤ LAGUNA BEACH
➤ SINGAPORE ➤ COTONOU ➤ SYDNEY ➤ MILAN ➤ JAKARTA ➤ LONDON
SINGITA KILIMA
IN NORTHERN TANZANIA, SPANNING MORE THAN 350,000
acres on the western corridor of the iconic Serengeti
ecosystem (which extends into southwestern Kenya), the private
Grumeti Reserve is a sanctuary of untamed beauty and exclusivity,
offering an intimate glimpse into Africa’s raw, majestic wilderness.
Far from the bustling tourist routes, Grumeti is a haven for wildlife,
where the drama of the Great Migration unfolds every year and herds
of wildebeest and zebra traverse golden plains, shadowed by stealthy
predators. The reserve also offers an unmatched sense of tranquillity,
its rolling savannahs and acacia-dotted landscapes alive with the
timeless rhythm of nature.
Perched atop a secluded hill within this vast wilderness, utterly
cocooned by nature, exclusive-use Singita Kilima opened late last year.
Sheltered by a forest of ancient trees on a remote hillside overlooking
the Serengeti plains, the property's elevated position offers sweeping
views of the reserve, placing guests in the heart of the action whilst
being surrounded by serene beauty.
Kilima’s free-spirited aesthetic offers total seclusion, with the added
luxury of a front-row seat to the Great Migration. Accommodating
up to 10 guests in five beautifully appointed suites, Kimila is perfect
for a family or group of friends seeking an elite safari adventure. The
architecture features earthy colour palettes and textured patterns,
with intimate spaces for guests to savour the surrounding wilderness,
as well as an impressive array of private facilities. Synonymous with
the renowned Singita experience, a dedicated team of staff, including
a field guide, chef, butler, and housekeepers, are on hand to ensure an
unforgettable safari experience, tailored to each guest’s specific needs.
www.singita.com

head
FROM A NEW EXCLUSIVE USE SAFARI
LODGE SET IN THE HEART OF TANZANIA'S
SERENGETI, AFFORDING GUESTS FRONT
ROW SEATS TO THE GREAT MIGRATION, TO
THE GBP 1.5 BILLION SIX-YEAR
REIMAGINATION OF LONDON'S STORIED
OLD WAR OFFICES, THE CULTURED
TRAVELLER CHECKS INTO A DOZEN
RATHER SPECIAL PLACES, AROUND THE
WORLD, TO REST YOUR HEAD

SANTORINI GREECE
CANAVES ENA
WITH ITS DRAMATIC CALDERA AND TRADEMARK
whitewashed villages, Santorini has been the jewel of
the Cyclades for decades and is a destination that has long captivated
travellers. This volcanic island, shaped by a cataclysmic eruption thousands
of years ago, is a masterclass in contrasts, with rugged cliffs plunging into
the indigo Aegean Sea softened by the golden glow of legendary sunsets.
And whilst much of Santorini has embraced the modern traveller, the island
still retains its deep connection to its Minoan past, ancient winemaking
traditions, and seafaring heritage.
On the island’s northern tip lies Oia, a fishing village turned icon of
Cycladic charm. Its labyrinth of narrow streets is adorned with blue-domed
churches, sugar-cube houses, and weathered Venetian mansions, all
perched precariously on the edge of the caldera. Historically, Oia thrived
as a maritime hub, its captains’ houses a testament to its prosperous past,
while its architecture reflects both function and a striking harmony with the
landscape.
Canaves Collection is a family-owned group of boutique Santorinian hotels
founded in the 1980s, all of which are steeped in authentic Greek character
and charm. Created by the Chaidemenos family (which was one of the first
to introduce tourism to Oia), the group’s flagship property was recently
transformed into new-look Canaves Ena, with all of its 18 rooms except one,
built into its own cave, set in Oia’s cliffside.
Formerly wine cellars, stables and homes, Canaves Ena’s caves have
been reimagined into simple yet heavenly suites, every one of which faces
the caldera and is unique in layout and size. And being located just a fiveminute
walk from the center of Oia, with direct access to the street, means
that guests can explore the village in the morning, before the cruise ships
arrive and the village becomes hideously crowded!
www.canaves.com
30

ICONIC MARJORIE HOTEL
OFTEN REFERRED TO AS THE “PEARL OF THE ORIENT,”
Penang is a captivating blend of cultures, cuisines, and
colonial heritage. Situated on the northwest coast of Malaysia, this
island-state is renowned for its UNESCO-listed George Town, where
shophouses and temples whisper tales of the past amidst a modern,
creative vibrancy. Beyond its historical allure, Penang entices with its
lush hills, golden beaches, and its reputation as the country's culinary
capital, where hawker stalls serve up flavours that linger in the memory
long after a trip has ended.
Venture beyond Penang’s well-trodden paths and you’ll uncover
neighbourhoods such as Bayan Lepas, located on the city’s southeastern
coast. Established in the late 19th century, the area was once a quiet
agricultural village known for its pepper plantations and coconut groves.
Today, Bayan Lepas is a thriving hub, home to Penang International
Contained within the first high-rise building in Penang to be awarded
Airport and Malaysia's first free trade zone, created in 1972. Yet despite a gold rating by the Green Building Index (GBI) and spread across 32
its somewhat modern transformation, Bayan Lepas retains a distinct
floors, 298 guest rooms including 38 suites offer a tranquil retreat
sense of heritage, with pockets of traditional kampung houses and oldworld
markets providing a glimpse into its humble beginnings.
intricate detailing. Guests staying in premium rooms and suites enjoy
from the bustling metropolis beyond, combining modern amenities with
access to the 24-hour Tiffin Lounge, which offers complimentary all-day
Set within the heart of vibrant Bayan Lepas, just a 10-minute drive
refreshments and evening cocktails. And located on the 13th floor,
from the airport, every element of new Iconic Marjorie Hotel has been
Senses Bar offers panoramic vistas perfect for sundowners at the end
meticulously crafted to offer a multi-sensory stay experience infused
of a busy day of exploring.
with contemporary Peranakan elegance.
www.iconicmarjorie.com
PENANG MALAYSIA
31

LOWER HUTT NEW ZEALAND
THE SEBEL WELLINGTON
NESTLED ALONG THE BANKS OF THE HUTT RIVER AND JUST
a short drive from Wellington, Lower Hutt offers visitors a
delightful introduction to New Zealand’s captivating landscapes and rich
history. Part of the Wellington region, this vibrant little city was one of
the country’s earliest European settlements, its roots tracing back to the
mid-19th century when it served as a hub for industry and trade. Today,
Lower Hutt blends its historical significance with a modern appreciation
for art, culture, and the great outdoors. Indeed, the Hutt Valley is
brimming with outdoor adventures and unmissable experiences.
Surrounded by natural beauty, from the forested trails of the
Eastbourne hills to the expansive coastline of Petone, where settlers first
arrived, outdoor enthusiasts can take advantage of a wealth of pursuits,
from exploring the lush tracks of Belmont Regional Park, to cycling along
the scenic Remutaka Rail Trail, and refuelling at Brewtown - a one-stop
craft beer hub, containing four breweries and a distillery. And art and
history aficionados will enjoy the Dowse Art Museum, renowned for its
contemporary exhibitions, and the Petone Settlers Museum, which tells
the story of the area’s early European and Māori communities.
Overlooking the Hutt River and centrally located on the High Street in
the city centre, stylish new-build 60-room apartment-hotel, The Sebel
Wellington, opened last year providing a range of accommodation
options to suit every type of traveller. For people who want to stay in the
heart of the city, but avoid the hustle and bustle of Wellington central,
the hotel is perfectly located and provides easy access to an array of
nature and walking trails.
Fully serviced rooms range from studios to one-bedroom apartments
and all include kitchenettes and dining areas. And for those who don’t
wish to cook, the hotel's on-site restaurant and pasticceria, Grazie,
serves delicious, homemade Italian fare, with fresh pasta, pizza, breads
and pastries all made in-house.
www.thesebel.com
The Sebel
Wellington
32
Lower Hutt

RIVERSIDE RETREAT
Experience Bangkok's soulful energy by making the serene riverfront your retreat -
now further enhanced with Capella Bangkok's immersive
resort offerings and complimentary nights.
Forbes
TRAVEL GUIDE
BOOK YOUR STAY NOW:
E. reservations.bangkok@capellahotels.com
T. +66 2 098 3888
• f ® @capellabangkok
CAPELLAHOTELS.COM/BANGKOK

TOKYO JAPAN
THE TOKYO EDITION, GINZA
A ENERGETIC CITY THAT SEAMLESSLY INTERTWINES THE
ultra-modern with the timeless, Tokyo is a metropolis that offers
something for every traveller. From the neon-lit streets of Shibuya to the
tranquil beauty of Meiji Jingū, Tokyo’s kaleidoscope of experiences is everevolving
yet deeply rooted in tradition. The city's wide variety of gastronomic
offerings, from fine dining restaurants to humble ramen shops, is legendary,
while its fashion-forward districts like Harajuku and Omotesando reflect
global style trends.
At the heart of the bustling Japanese capital lies affluent Ginza - Tokyo's
most prestigious shopping and dining district. Established in the early 17th
century, Ginza was originally a centre for the production of silver coins, and
its name (derived from the Japanese word for “silver”) reflects this historical
significance. By the late 19th century, it had transformed into a commercial
hub, with Western influences shaping its architectural and cultural
landscape. Today, Ginza is a refined enclave of luxury boutiques, high-end
department stores, lauded restaurants, and sophisticated cafés, attracting
both international visitors and Tokyo’s elite.
With a Japanese-tinged modern brasserie, a multitude of innovative bar
concepts, including Japan’s only punch-focused cocktail bar and Ginza’s
first natural wine bar, not-to-mention 86 exceptionally spacious rooms and
suites, the 14-floor hotel has injected a new generation of luxury into the
heart of one of Tokyo’s most desirable destinations. And punctuated by 34
out of the city’s 183 Michelin-starred restaurants, makes Ginza home to the
highest concentration of Michelin-listed restaurants in Japan, with the EDITION
sitting at the heart of a happening dining scene where a wealth of delicious
Japanese cuisines cater to every budget. www.editionhotels.com
For their second hotel in Tokyo, the EDITION brand and its creator,
the American entrepreneur, hotelier and real estate developer,
Ian Schrager, once again joined forces with renowned Japanese
architect Kengo Kuma to create a new avant-garde hotel in Ginza.
Indeed, The Tokyo EDITION, Ginza has extended the brand’s distinct
blend of energy and sophistication to a corner of the city where few
luxury hotels ventured before.
34 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

CASA LOMA BEACH HOTEL
A CAPTIVATING COASTAL HAVEN IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
with seven miles of coastline, Laguna Beach has long drawn
visitors with its stunning landscapes, charming village atmosphere,
and thriving arts scene. Once an artists’ colony, the town continues to
celebrate its creative heritage, with galleries, festivals, and public art
installations scattered throughout its streets. The town’s scenic beaches,
framed by dramatic cliffs and majestic canyons, offer a serene respite,
while its rich history—marked by early Californian influences and Native
American roots—adds depth to its appeal. A visit to Laguna Beach
promises a harmonious blend of natural beauty and artistic inspiration,
with attractions such as the famed Pageant of the Masters and numerous
boutique shops offering an authentic local experience.
At the heart of this enchanting resort town, just steps from the shoreline,
courtesy of a USD 15 million top-to-toe makeover, what was once the
beloved Inn at Laguna Beach has been transformed into the new Casa
Loma Beach Hotel.
Influenced not only by the beauty of its clifftop landscape but also a
laidback Mallorcan mindset and the vivacity of California’s coastal spirit,
the property now provides the perfect base for exploring the artistic and
natural wonders of the area, while affording its guests a private, sensual,
and understatedly-elegant refuge just steps from Laguna Main Beach,
Akin to staying at an old friend’s coastal villa, where hospitality feels
familial, public spaces are tastefully appointed, evocative of the town’s
creative roots, and encourage beachside reflection. Meanwhile the 70
newly-appointed guest rooms, more than half of which feature private
balconies or patios and sea views, blend a Mediterranean sensibility with
the comforts and colours of the Pacific, complete with custom beds, builtin
desks, inviting sofas, and cosseting throws.
pretty much hiding in plain sight, ensconced by rocks and lush greenery.
location. www.casalomalagunabeach.com
LAGUNA BEACH UNITED STATES
35

SINGAPORE
ARTYZEN SINGAPORE
A CITY WHERE INNOVATION MEETS HERITAGE, SINGAPORE
never ceases to captivate, even for those who think they’ve seen
it all! A dynamic interplay of tradition and innovation, the island state balances a
rich tapestry of heritage with its gleaming, forward-thinking modernity. Its historic
enclaves – from the shophouses of Joo Chiat to the spiritual serenity of Little
India – stand in striking contrast to its futuristic skyline, where Marina Bay Sands
and Supertrees dominate. But Singapore’s true magic lies in its details: a perfectly
brewed kopi in a hawker centre, the scent of frangipani wafting through its green
sanctuaries, or the hushed efficiency of award-winning Changi Airport.
Amidst this dynamic metropolis lies Orchard, Singapore’s most prestigious
boulevard. While known globally for its luxury shopping, Orchard’s history runs
deep. Once a plantation district in the 19th century, it evolved into a vibrant
commercial hub in the 20th century. Today, aside from shops, it is also home to
cultural landmarks including the National Museum of Singapore, which chronicles
the island’s compelling past, and the Istana, the official residence of the President,
with its manicured grounds reflecting Singapore’s colonial heritage. Casually
strolling through Orchard, one chances upon a harmonious blend of history,
culture, and modern refinement.
Located just off Orchard Road close to the city’s botanical gardens, striking new
modern 142-room lifestyle hotel, Artyzen Singapore, has been cleverly built on a
relatively compact piece of prime real estate, whilst paying homage to the heritage
of a mansion that formerly occupied the site and was owned by avid botanist, Tan
Hoon Siang. Standing in the same spot today is a beautifully designed statement
36 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

tower that resembles a vertical hospitality garden, punctuated by overflowing
pockets of planting, trellised greenery, and draping botanicals. First impressions
seriously impress, and the building positively beckons guests to enter and explore.
Once inside the hotel, a feeling of warmth is palpable on every floor, courtesy
of a lovingly curated blend of heritage, modern luxuries, cultural artefacts, and
statement artworks. This aesthetic continues throughout the hotel, right up to
a sky garden on the top floor, which commands impressive panoramic vistas of
the surrounding cityscape and features a rooftop pool, part of which is glassbottomed
and protrudes past the building’s edge, making for a somewhat unique
swimming experience.
Ranging from generously proportioned entry-level Deluxe Balcony Rooms of
some 45 square metres, to the huge Penthouse Suite, every guest room deftly
balances sophistication with warmth, combining polished concrete, herringbone
timber, colonial touches and brass accents to create refined, inviting, and intensely
comfortable spaces, which function perfectly and provide the perfect base from
which to explore Singapore.
Artyzen Singapore is also home to a selection of dining and drinking options,
including the rather good one Michelin-starred Quenino by Victor Liong, which
celebrates the vibrant culinary diversity of Southeast Asia, courtesy of innovative
tasting menus that blend Southeast Asian flavours with subtle Australian
influences. www.artyzenhotelsandresorts.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
37

COTONOU BENIN
SOFITEL COTONOU
MARINA HOTEL & SPA
LOCATED IN THE SOUTH OF THE COUNTRY ON THE COAST,
Cotonou is the bustling economic and cultural heart of Benin
and offers an intriguing blend of West African vibrancy and colonial
heritage. Situated along the Gulf of Guinea, the city has long been a vital
port, historically serving as a gateway for trade, particularly during the
height of the transatlantic slave trade. Today, Cotonou is Benin’s largest
city and its commercial powerhouse, yet it retains a distinctive charm
with its lively markets, palm-fringed beaches, and a dynamic street life
that pulses with energy, providing travellers with an off-the-beaten-track
destination brimming with cultural treasures.
The city’s cultural fabric is woven with diverse influences, from its rich
Fon and Yoruba heritage to its colonial French past. This is reflected in
a vibrant arts scene, with local artisans producing intricate sculptures,
textiles, and woodwork that adorn the city’s many galleries and markets.
Striking colonial-era architecture punctuates the city at every turn.
Museums showcase Benin’s cultural treasures. And Cotonou’s central
market, the Marche Dantokpa, is one of the largest in West Africa, and
offers an array of goods ranging from spices to handmade crafts.
Stylishly combining Beninese culture, French joie de vivre, and first-class
hospitality, new Sofitel Cotonou Marina is surrounded by lush parkland,
a few steps from the beach on a 29-hectare estate, five minutes’ drive
from the airport and a few kilometres from the city centre. Tastefully
celebrating the region’s cultural richness throughout, the hotel features
174 well-appointed rooms and suites furnished with every conceivable
luxury. These include five duplex suites, with private pools, for more
secluded stays.
Leisure guests are spoiled with five bars and restaurants, multiple
swimming pools and tennis courts, a very well-equipped gym, and a
sumptuous 1,000 square-metre on-site spa, featuring bespoke rituals
and treatments created with premium KOS Paris products. Meanwhile,
the hotel’s state-of-the-art entertainment complex is home to a cinema,
casino, and bar and nightclub concept, SO Lounge.
www.sofitel.accor.com
38

An urban oasis of
graceful luxury,
where nature's beauty meets award-winning design.
Learn more
The World of Pan Pacific Hotels Group | panpacific.com
Singapore • Kuala Lumpur • Penang • Malacca • Langkawi • Bangkok • Yangon • Nay Pyi Taw • Hanoi • Ho Chi Minh City
Phnom Penh • Siem Reap • Jakarta • Dhaka • Beijing • Tianjin • Xiamen • Suzhou • Ningbo • Dalian • Sydney • Melbourne
Perth • Tokyo • Kyoto • London • Vancouver • Whistler, British Columbia • Toronto • Nairobi

SYDNEY AUSTRALIA
HOTEL MORRIS
AN ENTICING CITY WHERE STRIKING MODERNITY MEETS DEEP
historical roots, Sydney continues to universally captivate
with its blend of coastal beauty and urban sophistication. While its iconic
harbour and beaches draw much attention, the heart of the city pulses with
a cultural vibrancy that reflects both its colonial past and its multicultural
present. The Central Business District (CBD) stands at the crossroads of
this dynamic city, its streets rich with history and architectural variety, from
grand 19th-century buildings to sleek, contemporary edifices.
Within the CBD, visitors can trace the city’s history through landmarks
like the Sydney Town Hall, a stately Victorian-era building that stands as a
testament to the city’s growth. The State Library of New South Wales, with
its impressive dome and quiet reading rooms, offers a peaceful respite
not-to-mention a glimpse into the city’s literary heritage. And just a short
walk away, Australia's oldest botanical garden provides a tranquil space
to reflect on the city’s relationship with nature, while nearby Circular Quay
remains a symbol of Sydney’s enduring connection to the sea.
extensive refurbishment, this Art Deco gem has been re-born as boutique
82-room Hotel Morris, which is part of Accor’s Handwritten Collection.
Signage has been sensitively restored to its former glory. Reborn
public spaces, hung with Murano chandeliers, deftly blend historic and
contemporary design. Stylish guest rooms are decorated in a warming
palette of rich ochre and deep reds and are furnished with modernist
pieces. And the hotel’s prime location, at the southern end of Sydney’s CBD,
puts guests in the heart of everything the city has to offer.
https://hotelmorris.com.au
Running through the heart of the CBD, Pitt Street is one of Sydney’s earliest
thoroughfares, its roots extending back to the colonial era, when it was part
of the city’s initial grid plan. Today, the street retains a sense of old-world
charm, woven into the fabric of the modern city.
Built in 1929 and designed in the Inter-War Palazzo style by famed Italian
architect, Virgil Dante Cizzio, historic West End Hotel stood at 412 Pitt
Street as Australia’s tallest hotel for more than 30 years. Before closing for
renovation, the building was a lowly backpacker's hostel. But following an
40 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

CASA BRERA
NESTLED IN THE HEART OF LOMBARDY AND RENOWNED for
its haute couture boutiques, vibrant nightlife, and happening
culinary scene, Italy’s fashion and design capital is also home to some
of the world’s most celebrated cultural treasures. From Leonardo da
Vinci’s iconic The Last Supper, to the magnificent gothic Duomo and
grand renaissance Sforza Castle, the city offers a wealth of artistic and
architectural marvels that reflect its storied past.
Located in Milan's historical city centre just a stone’s throw from the
iconic Teatro alla Scala, tranquil Piazetta Bossi is a charming and lesserknown
square that offers a quiet escape from the bustling streets nearby.
Named after the 19th-century architect Luigi Bossi and surrounded by
elegant buildings, this small piazetta is the perfect place to pause for a
quiet moment during a busy day of sightseeing or shopping.
MILAN ITALY
Recently opened, new Luxury Collection hotel, Casa Brera, occupies
a carefully restored 1950s Rationalist building in Piazetta Bossi,
harmoniously blending Milanese heritage with sophisticated design and
cosmopolitan hospitality flair, courtesy of Spanish architect and interior
designer, Patricia Urquiola.
101 elegantly designed guest rooms, including 15 suites, reflect the spirit
of Milanese art, culture, and design, utilising beautiful woods, marble and
granite to create contemporary accommodations that are elegant and
timeless. Larger rooms feature modular Poliform furniture, cosy seating,
custom artworks, and a smooth continuity between the sleeping area
and bathroom. At the top end, individually-designed signature suites offer
stylish apartment-like living in the heart of Milan, complete with large
terraces made for entertaining.
Downstairs, the hotel’s culinary direction is guided by acclaimed
Michelin-starred chef, Andrea Berton, who curates the gastronomic
offerings in all-day-dining Living lounge, Italian fine-dining Scena
restaurant, which is focused on authentic and innovative Milanese cuisine,
and Etereo skybar and restaurant on the top floor, which offers guests
magnificent panoramic 360-degree vistas across Milan, complete with an
outdoor pool and terraces furnished with sunbeds and sofas.
www.casabrera.com
41

JAKARTA INDONESIA
25HOURS HOTEL
THE ODDBIRD
THE VIBRANT CAPITAL OF INDONESIA, JAKARTA IS A
sprawling metropolis where modernity thrives amidst deeprooted
tradition. A gateway to the country’s rich cultural diversity, despite
its rapid development, Jakarta retains its soul through its many landmarks,
lively arts scene, and the warmth of the Indonesian people. From bustling
street markets and historic neighbourhoods, to gleaming skyscrapers and
sophisticated dining, the city offers a kaleidoscope of experiences for the
seasoned traveller, and, as one explores, it reveals layers of history and
contemporary life in a dynamic fusion.
Nestled in the southern part of Jakarta, the green garden district of
Senopati lies between the Sudirman Central Business District and the
residential enclave of Kemang. Historically, it was once a quiet suburban
neighbourhood, but over the past two decades, it has been transformed
into a cultural and culinary hotspot. Today the area is a mosaic of trendy
cafes, chic boutiques, art galleries, and gourmet restaurants, drawing a
cosmopolitan crowd of locals and visitors alike.
Standing above Ashta Mall in the heart of Senopati, 25hours Hotel The
Oddbird rises 38 floors encompassing 210 rooms, 135 serviced apartments,
11 creative lounges, a ballroom, and three restaurants and bars, all blending
the city’s rich history with modern aesthetics. Interiors feature a fun and
eclectic mix of original vintage mid-century pieces and contemporary
furniture, including mismatched chairs and handcrafted tables with intricate
Indonesian patterns, and curated local and international art. Together, these
elements create an inviting, story-filled vibe, evoking nostalgia and creating
a comfortable starting point for expeditions into the city.
Upstairs, urban or garden inspired rooms blend lush jungle and retro
styles, come in a variety of sizes, and feature panoramic views over
Jakarta's skyline. The largest “Gigantic Garden” rooms offer separate
bed and living rooms with spacious seating areas and floor-to-ceiling
windows. Crowing the hotel is a spa, gym, and rooftop pool complete with
cabanas for relaxing.
https://25hours-hotels.com
42 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

LONDON UNITED KINGDOM
RAFFLES LONDON
AT THE OWO
IF WALLS COULD TALK, THOSE OF LONDON’S OLD WAR
Office would make a remarkable dinner party guest.
Beguiling, elegant, and steeped in history, the Old War Office bore
witness to some of the most important events of the last century. It was
here, at the intersection of Whitehall and Horse Guards Avenue in the
heart of Westminster, that wartime leaders like Sir Winston Churchill
and Earl Kitchener shaped the course of modern history. Today, this vast
building is home to Raffles London at The OWO, the first UK property
from a hospitality brand that’s no stranger to celebrating the heritage of
storied properties.
After a six-year renovation and GBP 1.5 billion investment from
the Hinduja family and co-owner ONEX, The OWO is home to 120
guest rooms and suites and 85 private apartments, as well as nine
restaurants, three bars, and a spectacular subterranean Guerlain Spa.
The original Edwardian Baroque exterior designed by Scottish
architect William Young remains unchanged and most of the interiors
have been faithfully restored to their former glory. Stepping
through the building’s western entrance, guests are greeted by a
porter in full-length cape and the spectacle of the grand central
staircase, where impassioned arrivals and dramatic exits have
played out for almost 120 years. Overhead and representing
unity, a chandelier made of 3,085 pieces of Venetian glass, by
Italian studio iDOGI, hangs as a symbol of peace in a building
where wars were managed, and is part of The OWO’s extensive
art collection.
Two and a half miles of labyrinthine corridors — once patrolled
by an army of bicycle messengers — are today lined with crimson
red carpets and curtains that echo the uniforms worn by the Royal
Horse Guards across the street. The original black and white mosaic
floor has been painstakingly remade after years of degradation
thanks to a rather charming tradition: at the end of their tenure
former employees of the Old War Office were permitted to pry off
two tiles and turn them into cufflinks.
44 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

Among the 120 guest rooms reimagined by the late French designer and
architect Thierry Despont, the 34 suites exude grandeur, enhanced by
detailing that roots each in the building’s history. The Ministerial Suite
occupied by The Cultured Traveller features an original painting by T. E.
Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia), created shortly after his secondment at
the Old War Office.
Of the nine dining venues at The OWO, the hotel's signature
restaurant is one Michelin-starred Mauro Colagreco and Mauro’s Table,
helmed by the eponymous Argentine chef, whose Mirazur restaurant in
Menton holds three Michelin stars.
Leisurely libations are poured in the oak-panelled surrounds of The
Guards Bar and Lounge, a svelte snug with red leather seating and
parquet floors. As well as the London Sling — a distinctly British take on
the Singapore original — the cocktail list includes eight Raffles signature
creations based on the component flavours of a Singapore Sling; a
liquid tasting menu (GBP 160 for eight mini cocktails), and an exquisite
pairing of Louis XIII cognac and caviar. True to the setting, the menu is
peppered with quotes from writers and statesmen, including James
Bond creator, Ian Fleming. And downstairs, the top-secret reservationonly
Spy Bar claims to mix the best martini in London.
Deeper below London's streets, the hotel's Guerlain Spa is a palatial,
four-floor sanctuary offering treatments fashioned by the Parisian
perfume house, personalised wellness programming courtesy of
Pillar Wellbeing, and a magnificent 20-metre swimming pool. Soothing
treatments start with a balm of wild herbs and bergamot, and conclude
with serene moments in the relaxation room.
From the tips of its four corner turrets to the depths of its basement
levels, Raffles London at The OWO embodies the grand eloquence
of 20th century architecture and the refined elegance for which
Raffles is known. A living museum where every room tells a story and
secrets lay hidden behind every doorway, this impressive building is
an intrinsic part of modern British history and an invaluable addition to
Westminster’s luxury hotel landscape.
www.raffles.com/london

WIN
PRIZE DRAW
A FOUR-NIGHT STAY FOR TWO IN AN EXECUTIVE ROOM AT SWISSÔTEL
ULUDAG BURSA, SET WITHIN TURKEY'S BEAUTIFUL KIRAZLIYAYLA FOREST,
COMPLETE WITH ALL MEALS AND A PAIR OF 60-MINUTE SPA TREATMENTS
spend four days
surrounded by
nature at swissôtel
uludag bursa
TO ENTER
Email your contact details to ➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com
The draw will take place on 1 June 2025 and the winner will be notified privately via email.
The prize must be used before 1 March 2026 and is subject to availability when booking.
Blackout dates apply. The prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured
Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified.
Entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller e-mailing list.
OPEN YEAR-ROUND,
Swissôtel Uludag Bursa is
a tranquil mountain retreat and luxury
wellness spa surrounded by fragrant pines
in the beautiful Kirazliyayla Forest, located
in Turkey’s Bursa region, which is famed for
its stunning natural beauty.
Set midway up Mount Uludağ at a
comfortable altitude of 1,500 metres, and
housed within a cluster of immaculately
restored 1940s heritage buildings designed
by two celebrated Turkish architects, the
173-room five-star property, including 50
suites, welcomes guests with an abundance
of natural daylight and lush botanicals,
together with the warm, genuine hospitality
for which Swissôtel is famous. Soothingly
elegant, every guest room and suite is
something of a sanctuary, equipped with
modern technology and every comfort
needed for a relaxing spa break.
Swissôtel Uludağ Bursa focuses on
vitality and rejuvenation, with a holistic
approach to mental and physical renewal,
fitness, and well-being, and offers a diverse
range of elevated treatments and wellness
experiences infused with the vibrancy of
the destination, including meditation, yoga,
detox and dietary programs. Meanwhile
guests enjoy delicious, sustainable cuisine,
featuring flavourful dishes lovingly crafted
from fresh, locally-sourced seasonal
ingredients. https://all.accor.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
47

LUANG PRABANG
LAOS
a city
tiptoeing
through
time
A GUARDIAN OF TRADITION AND MONASTIC
PAGEANTRY, TUCKED INTO NORTHERN LAOS AT
THE CONFLUENCE OF THE MEKONG AND NAM
KHAN RIVERS, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
IS BEGUILED BY THE FORMER LAOTIAN ROYAL
CAPITAL, WHICH UNIQUELY BALANCES THE
SACRED AND THE COLONIAL, THE LAO AND THE
EUROPEAN, THE TRADITIONAL AND THE PRESENT
PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARIN HUSAIN

COVER STORY
LUANG PRABANG

T
HERE ARE VERY FEW PLACES LEFT
in the world, where time is measured not
in minutes or hours but in the slow turning
of the seasons, the rhythm of monks’ gentle
footsteps at dawn, and the languid drift of
rivers bending through the hills. An exquisite, unspoilt yet
softly timeworn jewel at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam
Khan rivers, the former Laotian royal capital of Luang Prabang
is one such place. It is a city of mist-laced mornings and golden
twilight, where saffron-robed monks move in silent processions,
the past lingers in temple courtyards and beneath the slatted
eaves of imposing wooden houses, an air of quiet reverence
permeates every brick-cobbled lane, and streets are punctuated
by charming colonial-era architecture and striking temples at
every turn.
Tucked into northern Laos, Luang Prabang has a way
of pulling visitors into its rhythm, slowing one’s pulse and
sharpening one’s senses, and it’s not long before I feel the
stillness, calm, and a unique hush that seems to emanate
from the earth itself. Completely devoid of traffic signals, it is
a city that refreshingly feels removed from the unsettled and
fast-paced modern world not entirely untouched by time, but
¯
cradling it, trying hard to preserve it, wearing it with grace,
and allowing visitors to experience its multitudinous charms.
The dawn giving
and receiving of alms
A CITY OF RIVERS AND KINGS
Luang Prabang’s story begins in the ebb and flow of the mighty
Mekong, a wide, latté-coloured river that has long been much
more than a waterway, for it is the lifeblood of Laos, a conduit
for trade, a source of sustenance, and a mirror of history. It was
along this great artery that early Lao civilisations flourished,
and by the 14th century, Luang Prabang had risen as the heart
of the Lan Xang kingdom, known for centuries as “The Land of
a Million Elephants.” Here, kings ruled under the divine glow
of Buddhism, their temples rose in intricate splendour, and the
city became a beacon of faith and a centre of culture.
Draped in monarchical pageantry and shrouded in spiritual
significance, Luang Prabang remained the capital of Laos
for centuries. But history, ever restless, saw power shift to
Vientiane in the 16th century. Luang Prabang, left as a small
principality in relative seclusion, then became a guardian of
tradition rather than a political player, its isolation perhaps
the very thing that remarkably kept its essence intact for us to
enjoy today.
GOLDEN SPIRES AND WEATHERED WOOD
Wander through Luang Prabang and the layers of its history
unfold in architecture that chronicles stories of both splendour
and quiet resilience. The cityscape is an intricate dance
between the sacred and the colonial, the Lao and the European,
the traditional and the present. There are more than 30
temples, their gilded roofs catching the light like fire at sunset
and their mosaic-clad walls shimmering with celestial tales,
every one erected by a different monarch through the ages,
50 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

and each telling a different, fascinating tale. Chief among them
is Wat Xieng Thong, meaning "Temple of the City of Flame
Trees", which was constructed between 1559 and 1560 by King
Setthathirath, during the golden era of the Lan Xang kingdom.
With its nine, distinctive, pagoda-style cascading roofs, gold
stencilled decorations, and glass tile murals, Wat Xieng Thong
is Luang Prabang's religious emblem and one of the country's
oldest temples.
Another aspect to Luang Prabang’s enchanting aesthetic is
a remnant of French Indochina’s imprint. Faded, shuttered
mansions stand shoulder to shoulder with wooden Lao homes,
their facades softened by the patina of time. Some of these
houses have been lovingly restored, while others are boardedup,
and some are on the verge of collapse but somehow still
manage to provide shelter. And dotted throughout the city,
grand colonial-era buildings, their ochre walls dappled with
bougainvillaea, house art galleries and cafés, their past lives as
administrative offices or trading houses almost forgotten. This
juxtaposition of Lao tradition and European influence gives
the city a singular character ¯ old-world Indochina at its most
evocative and appealing.
A MONASTIC HEARTBEAT
For all its charm and history, I soon discover that it is the
spiritual pulse of Luang Prabang that defines its soul. Every
temple is a quiet sanctuary where golden Buddhas sit in
meditation, incense curls in the air, and murals whisper
ancient stories to those who take the time to pause and look.
The city is peppered with so many of them, that rarely is any
temple busy, and, if it is, there is almost certainly another
quieter one close by. But the most sacred ritual unfolds not
within the city’s temple walls, but throughout Luang Prabang
at dawn.
Every morning at just after 6am, as the first light stains
the sky pink, lines of monks ¯ some just young boys, others
men whose faces carry the wisdom of decades ¯ walk barefoot
through the city, collecting alms from the faithful. The act is
simple, almost silent. A flick of the wrist as a handful of sticky
rice is placed into a waiting bowl. A murmured blessing.
52 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

Haw Pha Bang temple
wander through luang prabang and
the layers of its history unfold in
architecture that chronicles stories of
both splendour and quiet resilience
54 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

COVER STORY
LUANG PRABANG
Haw Pha Bang temple
Fruit is popped in an open bag. And then they move on,
vanishing into the hush of the morning, leaving behind
only footprints and a lingering sense of something ancient,
something unbroken. The giving and receiving of alms happens
every morning in Luang Prabang, 365 days per year.
LUANG PRABANG’S SOUL: ITS PEOPLE
To step into Luang Prabang is not only to enter a city of mistcloaked
hills and stilted wooden houses, but to encounter a people
whose presence shapes the very atmosphere of the place. There
is a quiet grace to the Laotian spirit, a gentleness that lingers in
every greeting, in the unhurried cadence of daily life. Nowhere in
the country is this more evident than in Luang Prabang, where
warmth is not an affectation but an intrinsic part of being. Young
monks move through the morning streets with bare feet against
cool stone, their gestures measured and serene; fishermen along
the river’s edge, cast their nets with patient precision, as if each
ripple holds an unspoken story; elders sit on shaded porches, their
smiles slow and knowing, as if they have all the time in the world.
Even the simplest of exchanges such as a - cup of tea offered with
¯
both hands, or a murmured “sabaidee” accompanied by a soft nod
are infused with an unspoken kindness and a quiet generosity. It
¯
is a city that does not rush and does not raise its voice, but instead
welcomes all with a stillness that lingers, inviting those who
arrive to move through its streets not as tourists, but as guests in
an ancient and unhurried world.
VILLAGES WITHIN THE CITY
Luang Prabang’s main thoroughfare, Sisavangvong Road,
also known as "Foreigners Street", was straightened and
made level by the colonial French. So today, most of the shops,
houses and buildings that line the road are either higher or
lower, with steps up or down to their entrances. Either side
of Sisavangvong, villages and neighbourhoods which were
formerly specialised craft and food centres, have been absorbed
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
55

COVER STORY
LUANG PRABANG
Sisavangvong Road
luang prabang has a way of
pulling visitors into its rhythm,
slowing one’s pulse and
sharpening one’s senses
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
57

COVER STORY
LUANG PRABANG
into the city over time, placing quaint lanes, tree-lined alleys
and inviting houses within a few steps of the city’s main
thoroughfare. This is part of Luang Prabang’s uniqueness, so
be sure to set aside time to get lost amongst the city's hidden
architectural gems, cute cafés, and veiled monasteries and
gardens. With the Mekong meandering along the lower edge
of the city, and Sisavangvong and Sakkaline roads running
parallel, you will always find your way home in Luang Prabang.
FLAVOURS OF THE LAOTIAN LAND
Of the many, Xieng Moine neighbourhood is almost certainly
the most charming in its human scale and lack of over
decoration. Modest, unpretentious, and simply delightful to
spend a few hours ambling around, a great fire at the end of
the 19th century destroyed large parts of the village, so most of
what you see today is well-preserved early 20th century.
The municipal office in charge of the area's conservation has
been very sensitive to architecture and preserving the urban
landscape, so numerous quiet and atmospheric areas abound
away from the main street. And in Xieng Moine lane you’ll find
a rare surviving example of a pre-colonial Lao style aristocratic
mansion - Heuan Chan Heritage - together with some lovely
little shops and restaurants. These include Asian gastrobar
Lost in Baan, which is set within a restored 1960s house
designed in a Vietnam war style with American influences.
https://lostinbaan.com
FLAVOURS OF THE LAOTIAN LAND
If Luang Prabang is a city of serenity, its cuisine is a
reflection of its deep connection to the land. Here, food is not
just sustenance but an extension of culture, a bond between
people and place. The flavours of Laos are woven through
the meals: the fragrance of lemongrass drifting from a
steaming broth, the smokiness of river fish grilled over an open
flame, and the satisfying bite of sticky rice, which is the heart
of every meal.
58
ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

A Historic
Prince’s Residence,
Now a Boutique
Retreat
Step into a storied past at the former residence
of Prince Souvanna Phouma, where heritage
meets homely comforts. Nestled in the heart
of Luang Prabang, Homm Souvannaphoum
Luang Prabang is a home away from home,
surrounded by history and the warmth of
Laotian hospitality.
Your Luang Prabang getaway awaits
hommhotels.com
Phone: +856 71 254 609
Email: reservations-luangprabang@hommhotels.com
SOUVANNAPHOUM LUANG PRABANG
hommhotels.com

What sets Luang Prabang’s culinary landscape apart is its respect
for tradition. Ingredients are foraged from the surrounding forests,
plucked from the banks of the Mekong, or cultivated in fertile river
valleys. Herbs are used with precision, each leaf and root selected
not just for taste, but for balance and harmony. Local meals are
shared and tied to ritual and custom. In a world where food trends
come and go, here, the old ways endure.
Of the many modern eateries in the city, cute Villa Puck
Luck in Ban Vatnong serves tasty, authentic Thai food at
bargain prices @villapuckluckrestaurantguesthouse, while
enchanting Little Lao Culture Bar serves traditional Lao
cuisine made from fresh seasonal ingredients bought daily in
the local market, and delectable hand-crafted cocktails, each
with a story to tell @little.lao.culture.bar.
GUARDIANS OF THE PAST,
STEWARDS OF THE FUTURE
Despite its deep ties to history, Luang Prabang is not a
museum, nor is it completely frozen in time. Tiptoeing through
time, yes. It is a living, breathing city, trying to adapt while
fiercely protecting its heritage. Conservation efforts, led in
part by UNESCO since the city’s World Heritage designation
in 1995, have ensured that development does not overshadow
tradition. But the city’s true custodians are its people the ¯
artisans who continue to weave silk using techniques passed
down for generations, the monks who maintain the temples
with quiet devotion, the elders who share their stories with the
next generation, and curators of the city’s traditions, such as
French historian Francis Engelmann, who has lived in Luang
Prabang for 25 years, and Laotian fabric specialist, Linda
McIntosh, who owns gorgeous Asiama Galerie www.asiama.fr.
It is the efforts of these people, together with the local Ministry
of Culture, that keep Luang Prabang’s spirit alive, ensuring
that the city’s essence remains undiluted, even as the modern
world drifts ever closer.
LANTERNS ON THE WATER:
A CITY CELEBRATES
Though Luang Prabang is a place of deep tranquillity, its
calendar is punctuated by moments of extraordinary festivity,
60 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

Sisavangvong Road
Heuan Chan Heritage

COVER STORY
LUANG PRABANG
to witness luang prabang
from a boat on the
mekong is to see the
city as it has been for
centuries ‒ softened by
haze, crowned by distant
hills, and reflected in the
unhurried tide of a river
that seems to hold the
secrets of empires and
lost worlds
perhaps none more luminous than the twin celebrations of
Bun Ok Pansa and Lai Heua Fai.
As the rains retreat and the rivers swell with the season’s
last downpours, the city prepares for a spectacle both
spiritual and spectacular. Bun Ok Pansa marks the end
of Buddhist Lent, a time of reflection for monks who have
spent the preceding three months in monastic retreat.
But with the final prayers come a transformation, the
solemnity gives way to celebration, and Luang Prabang’s
temples come alive with hundreds of lanterns and lights
fashioned by the monks' hands.
Lai Heua Fai, the city's fire boat festival, follows as night
falls. After a procession along Sisavangvong Road which ends
at Wat Xieng Thong, elaborate boats made from bamboo
and paper, adorned with candles and lanterns, are blessed
before being set alight and launched on the Mekong. The flames
dance on the water’s surface and their reflections stretch into
the darkness. And whilst there is a hushed reverence in the air,
quietly beneath it, the faces of families gathered on riverbanks
are lit by the golden glow, as Luang Prabang once again
surrenders to its timeless rhythm of devotion, remembrance,
and celebration.
A MEKONG DUSK
To witness Luang Prabang from a boat on the Mekong is to see
the city as it has been for centuries ¯ softened by haze, crowned
by distant hills, and reflected in the unhurried tide of a river
that seems to hold the secrets of empires and lost worlds. At
sunset, longboats drift into the current, their wooden hulls
creaking as lanterns flicker against polished teak. The sky,
once pale and delicate, deepens into a symphony of amber,
vermilion, and indigo, the last traces of daylight dissolving
into the horizon. Along the banks, fishermen pull in their nets,
the rhythmic splash of water breaking the evening’s quiet. A
temple bell tolls somewhere beyond the tree-lined shore, its
echo rippling across the water. There is no rush and absolutely
no urgency ¯
only the Mekong’s eternal passage and a constant
reminder, that in Luang Prabang, time moves at its own pace.
A CITY UNLIKE ANY OTHER
Luang Prabang does not dazzle with skyscrapers or pulse
with the energy of an urban sprawl. In fact, the city does not
demand attention, at all. Instead, it unfolds gently, revealing
itself in moments a temple door left ajar, offering a glimpse
¯
of candlelight flickering before a golden Buddha; the scent of
woodsmoke curling through the dusk; the lull of the Mekong
as it carries the stories of centuries past. It is a place where
history is not confined to books but lingers in the air, where
the past and present exist in quiet equilibrium. To visit Luang
Prabang is to step, if only briefly, into a world where time
moves differently, where tradition is not nostalgic but a way
of life, and where beauty is found not in grandeur, but
in the delicate, unspoken poetry of an ancient city that
refuses to be forgotten. www.tourismluangprabang.org
62 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

FREE THE BEARS
NESTLED IN A GORGEOUS MOUNTAIN VALLEY, 30 MINUTES’
drive from the city centre, close to rural Baan Nong Tok village, no
trip to Luang Prabang is complete without having a private tour of multi-species
Luang Prabang Wildlife Sanctuary, to learn about the issues faced by wild bears,
and the worthwhile work not-for-profit charity, Free The Bears, is doing to rescue
them from cages, and provide them with a life free from pain and misery.
Amongst others, the sanctuary is home to moon bears and sun bears, both
targeted for their bile and body parts. Most arrive traumatised after years
of confinement, their natural instincts suppressed by neglect. Now, within
spacious enclosures designed to encourage exploration, they climb, forage,
and bathe in pools – simple freedoms long denied. Specialised veterinary
teams oversee their rehabilitation, ensuring each animal receives the
nourishment and medical attention needed to rebuild strength.
Beyond rescue efforts, the sanctuary plays a vital role in conservation.
Community outreach and education programmes promote awareness of
wildlife protection, helping to reduce demand for bear products. Research
initiatives contribute valuable data on welfare and rehabilitation, supporting
wider efforts to protect these threatened species. The facility also provides
care for other rescued animals, reinforcing its commitment to ending
exploitation across Laos.
Every visit to the sanctuary directly funds the charity’s mission, supporting
rescues, medical treatment, and enrichment activities that enhance the
bears’ well-being. By choosing ethical wildlife experiences, visitors become
part of a movement dedicated to protecting these remarkable creatures, and
Free the Bears is rewriting the future for animals once trapped in suffering.
https://freethebears.org
Mary, a sun bear at Luang Prabang Wildlife Sanctuary
IMAGE: FREE THE BEARS

COVER STORY
LUANG PRABANG

MANDALAO
ELEPHANT
CONSERVATION
LOCATED APPROXIMATELY 20 KILOMETRES FROM LUANG
Prabang city center, where the Nam Khan River carves a winding
path through jungle-clad hills, MandaLao Elephant Conservation stands as a
sanctuary of compassion. This extraordinary refuge offers a future for elephants
once burdened by logging and tourism, replacing hardship with dignity and care.
Unlike conventional sanctuaries, MandaLao rejects rides and
performances, instead fostering meaningful encounters between visitors
and these intelligent creatures. Here, elephants roam freely, guided only
by experienced mahouts who understand their complex needs. Guests
walk alongside them, observing natural behaviour in an environment where
kindness replaces control.
Yet the organisation’s work extends far beyond daily care. Rescued
elephants, many bearing the scars of labour, receive expert veterinary treatment
and nourishing diets that restore strength. Conservationists collaborate with
local communities, ensuring traditional knowledge supports modern welfare
practices. By protecting surrounding forests and promoting ethical tourism,
MandaLao safeguards not only the elephants but also their fragile habitat.
Every visit directly funds MandaLao's mission. Contributions support
rescue efforts, medical care, and sustainable projects that reduce humanwildlife
conflict. Education plays a crucial role – school outreach programmes
inspire future generations to protect Laos’s most iconic species.
Offering something rare, MandaLao is a sanctuary where elephants are
neither entertainers nor commodities but respected beings with stories of
resilience. Here, amongst ancient trees and quiet waters, the past is gently
rewritten, one peaceful step at a time.
https://mandalao.org
IMAGE: JORDAN BROWN

COVER STORY
LUANG PRABANG

The Great House
ROSEWOOD
LUANG PRABANG
HIDDEN FROM THE ROAD AMONGST EMERALD FOLDS,
Rosewood Luang Prabang is a masterpiece of refined
hospitality indulgence, seamlessly woven into the lush jungle that surrounds
it. A mere 15-minute drive from the UNESCO-listed heart of Luang Prabang
and 20-minutes from the airport, this exquisite boutique retreat reinterprets
the romance of French-Indochinese heritage with an artistry that feels
almost dreamlike. Here, nature and design are not just complementary but
symbiotic, each enhancing the other in a composition of rare elegance.
Crafted by the visionary designer and landscaper, Bill Bensley, the hotel is
an ode to colonial nostalgia, tempered by the rich traditions of Laos. Its design
is a symphony of teakwood, silk, and antique brass, evoking an era when
explorers and poets sought inspiration in the mysteries of Southeast Asia.
The main building, a grand yet intimate structure, gazes over a meandering
stream, its breezy verandas and shuttered windows recalling a time when
68 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025
Riverside Suite

COVER CITY FOCUS
STORY
LUANG PRABANG
KYOTO
the world moved at a gentler pace. Hidden brick pathways lead to 23
lovingly designed rooms, suites, and villas, some perched on the forested
hillside, others appearing to float serenely beside cascading waters. Within,
intricately carved furnishings, handwoven textiles, and vintage curios tell
a story of far-flung journeys and artistic devotion, and offer guests every
creature comfort.
The beautiful gardens are a spectacle in themselves – an orchestration
of tropical abundance. Towering palms cast delicate shadows over
vibrant frangipani, while orchids cling to ancient trees with quiet defiance.
Beneath this canopy, an ever-present symphony of birdsong and rustling
leaves creates an atmosphere of utter serenity. A private waterfall
tumbles through the estate, its crystalline descent harmonising with the
sound of trickling streams criss-crossed by quaint wooden bridges.
In every detail, Rosewood Luang Prabang embodies a deep reverence
for place, its beauty unfolding in layers of local craftsmanship coupled
with nature’s own artistry. It is not merely a hotel but a reverie – a truly
timeless retreat where the past lingers in the flicker of lantern light and the
scent of rain-kissed earth, providing discerning travellers with a luxe base
from which to explore Laos' former royal capital.
https://rosewoodhotels.com
Riverside Villa
Elephant Bridge Bar

T H E R O Y A L S U I T E
➤ BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT, LAKE LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND
suit e envy
HIGH ABOVE LAKE LUCERNE, WHERE THE CRISP ALPINE AIR
MEETS A LEGACY OF REFINEMENT, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
STEPS INTO THE RESORT’S PREMIER ONE-OF-A-KIND SUITE,
WHERE A WORLD OF HUSHED OPULENCE UNFOLDS, AND
TIMELESS ELEGANCE AND CONTEMPORARY LUXURY
CONVERGE IN PERFECT ACCORD
a timeless
hospitality icon
above the clouds

71

SUITE ENVY
BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT
THERE ARE PROBABLY VERY FEW
places in the world where nature,
hospitality and luxury intertwine so
seamlessly as they do at Bürgenstock. A
pinnacle of alpine majesty, perched high
above the tranquil waters of Lake Lucerne, this legendary
resort commands one of Switzerland’s most breathtaking
panoramas. Here, the drama of the Alps unfolds in every
direction, their rugged peaks softened by shifting veils of
mist, while the glassy surface of the lake below reflects an
ever-changing sky.
THE JOURNEY ITSELF IS PART OF THE
enchantment. Whether arriving by catamaran from
Lucerne and ascending via the historic funicular, or
winding through forested mountain roads as I did,
cossetted by the hotel's 6.3 litre dark blue Bentley Flying
Spur, the transition from the everyday world to one of
rarefied serenity is immediate. This is a place where the
air is crisp, the silence profound, and the sense of escape
absolute. Though only a short distance from Switzerland’s
cultural heartland, Bürgenstock feels like a world apart
– a secluded realm suspended between sky and water,
where time slows and the soul expands. And it is palpable
immediately I check-in.
A LEGACY ETCHED IN STONE
Bürgenstock’s story begins in the late 19th century, when
Swiss entrepreneurs Franz Josef Bucher and Josef Durrer
envisioned a retreat unlike any other. Drawn by the
region’s sublime natural beauty, they embarked on an
ambitious project, hewing their vision into the very rock
of the mountain. In 1873, the Grand Hotel Bürgenstock
welcomed its first guests, setting a new standard for
alpine hospitality.
With its sweeping terraces and stately façades,
the hotel swiftly became a destination for European
aristocracy, who journeyed here in pursuit of
fresh air, restorative landscapes, and the discreet
sophistication of Swiss service. Over the decades, the
resort expanded, each addition enhancing rather than
altering its essence. The arrival of the funicular in
1888 transformed access to the mountaintop, and soon,
Bürgenstock had established itself as a sanctuary
of refined indulgence, where seclusion and grandeur
existed in somewhat splendid equilibrium.
A RETREAT FOR THE WORLD’S LUMINARIES
It was not long before Bürgenstock’s discreet charms
caught the attention of the world’s most illustrious
figures. Throughout the 20th century, the resort became
a haven for those whose – were otherwise illuminated
by the public gaze. Royalty, statesmen, and cultural
icons sought solace in its quiet corridors, drawn to its
unassuming elegance and the unspoken promise of
discretion.
Audrey Hepburn, entranced by the tranquillity of
the Swiss mountains, not only frequented the resort but
also chose to marry Mel Ferrer in the charming chapel
nestled within the estate. Sophia Loren and ➤
Lounge, Royal Suite
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
73

SUITE ENVY
BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT
Dining Room, Royal Suite
Carlo Ponti made it their home for a time, residing in
a villa that overlooked the vast expanse of the lake.
Charlie Chaplin, a connoisseur of both privacy and
beauty, found in Bürgenstock the perfect retreat from
the weight of global adulation. Even political figures,
from heads of state to visionary leaders, have found
respite here, drawn by the resort’s hushed luxury and
its location close to the heart of Europe, yet blissfully
removed from its intrigues. At Bürgenstock, influence
and renown melted into the Alpine air, leaving only the
individual, free to wander the woodland paths or simply
gaze out over the water, uninterrupted.
AN ERA OF GILDED GLAMOUR
The mid-20th century marked the resort’s most dazzling
epoch. As the world emerged from the shadows of
war, a new era of optimism and indulgence unfolded.
Bürgenstock, with its poised architecture and rarefied
charm, became a stage for this renaissance of elegance.
The resort’s terraces brimmed with the effortless
glamour of the international jet set – ladies in silk
scarves and sunglasses, gentlemen in crisp tailoring,
champagne glasses catching the light of enchanting
sunsets. It was a place where conversations unfolded
in a murmur of languages, where film stars and ➤
74 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

BEYOND IMAGINATION
...SINCE 1873
Legendary experiences create
unforgettable memories.
Become part of our history.
burgenstockresort.com

industrialists mingled beneath chandeliers, and where
the sheer drama of the landscape served as the ultimate
backdrop to lives lived at the height of refinement.
Unlike the ostentation of the Riviera or the glitzy
allure of Hollywood, Bürgenstock’s appeal lay in its
understated grandeur. Here, wealth did not shout – it
whispered, woven into the fabric of a resort that prized
discretion above spectacle. Those who arrived were not
seeking an audience; they sought only the serenity of
a retreat that held the world at arm’s length, allowing
them to slip into a life of quiet yet unadulterated
splendour, their every whim catered to at a flash.
A RENAISSANCE IN THE CLOUDS
As the years passed, the world changed, and
Bürgenstock – though never forgotten – retreated into
a more subdued existence. Its legend remained intact,
its spirit undimmed, but time had left its mark. Then
came the vision to restore it, not simply to its former
glory, but to something beyond – a reinvention that
would honour its past while embracing the future.
The transformation was meticulous. Every stone, every
pathway, every architectural detail was reimagined with a
reverence for history and a commitment to modernity. The
result was a resurrection that did not erase the past but
rather enhanced it, breathing new life into spaces that had
witnessed generations of elegance.
TODAY, BÜRGENSTOCK IS ONCE AGAIN AT THE
forefront of European luxury, and is an enclave where
history and contemporary refinement exist in seamless
harmony. The grandeur of its early years remains, but
now it is interwoven with a modern sensibility, coupled
with an appreciation of space, of stillness, and, most
importantly, of a luxury that is defined not by excess but
by experience. And at the heart of this rarefied retreat
lies the pinnacle of its guest accommodations – a oneof-a-kind
suite, perched atop the property, embodying the
very essence of Bürgenstock’s legacy. ➤
Office, Royal Suite
Lounge, Royal Suite

SUITE ENVY
BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
77

SUITE ENVY
BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT
BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT'S ROYAL SUITE
Occupying a large part of the hotel's seventh floor,
Bürgenstock’s Royal Suite is a masterstroke of
contemporary alpine luxury, spanning some 308 square
metres. Designed by Rüssli Architekten AG, Lucerne,
and MKV Interior Design, London, the suite embraces a
Bedroom, Royal Suite
philosophy where nature takes centre stage, its interiors
deftly crafted to frame the breathtaking Lake Lucerne
vistas that unfold through walls of panoramic floor-toceiling
windows. Indeed, my first sight of them literally
stop me in my tracks, and during my stay, the plush
surroundings routinely play second fiddle to what is
unfolding outside.
IN EVERY ROOM AND INTERCONNECTED SPACE
– which flow seamlessly from one to the other – it is
evident that every detail has been meticulously curated
to create a sanctuary of restrained opulence. American
walnut parquet flows underfoot, meeting walls of raw
Greek quartz. A double-sided fireplace is the centerpiece
of a vast living space, and lends a sense of warmth to
the huge room, which is filled with an array of oversized
sofas and plush armchairs. This is perhaps why the
suite was home to Kamala Harris during the June 2024
Summit on Peace in Ukraine, held at Bürgenstock.
At one end of the lounge, a polished black Steinway
grand takes centre stage, and doors open onto a
massive rooftop terrace, offering an unparalleled
vantage point over the shimmering lake and the
surrounding mountains. An al fresco space where
nature and luxury converge, the terrace is the perfect
place for relaxing in the sun, or hosting a soirée.
At the opposite end, the living space opens into a
generous dining room where a dozen guests can feast
on fine food and enjoy the same magnificent views,
beneath an artistic, twinkling chandelier.
Terrace, Royal Suite
78

En Suite, Royal Suite
FROM THE BED OF THE MODEST BEDROOM, I
look directly at Lake Lucerne. But the beauty of the
master suite is its private wellness facilities, which
include a sauna, a steam room, a large jacuzzi-bath, and
a spa treatment room – the latter already set-up for me.
It is quite something to amble from your bedroom into
a private treatment room and enjoy a massage, without
having to see anyone apart from the therapist.
THROUGHOUT, THE SUITE'S INTERIORS ECHO
the hotel’s overarching design ethos – where
the elements of stone, timber, and metal create
a seamless dialogue between indoors and out.
Arana marble with a brushed surface graces the
bathrooms, its deep veining an echo of the rugged
landscapes beyond, while accent walls of Dematiou
stone – flamed and brushed for texture – ground the
space in natural authenticity.
UNDOUBTEDLY ONE OF THE MOST
remarkable accommodations in Europe, not to
mention an interior architectural triumph, Bürgenstock's
Royal Suite is much more than a place to stay; it is an
experience in itself, and a floating haven above the pristine
beauty of Lake Lucerne, where history, seclusion, and
refinement effortlessly merge.
A stay in The Royal Suite at Bürgenstock Resort costs from
CHF 16,000 per night and includes breakfast; a mini-bar stocked
with soft drinks; spa, gym, and cinema access; and use of
the MS Bürgenstock Catamaran and Bürgenstock Funicular.
https://burgenstockresort.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
79

IN CONVERSATION WITH
daniel
kitchener
IMAGE: STREETARTATLAS
ALSO KNOWN AS DANK, AND RENOWNED FOR HIS
NEON-DRENCHED MURALS OF EAST ASIAN URBAN
LANDSCAPES, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHATS
WITH THE CELEBRATED BRITISH STREET ARTIST
ABOUT HIS INSPIRATION, TRAVELS, AND WORK

ART
CULTURE
W
IDELY KNOWN AS DANK,
British street artist Dan Kitchener
is renowned for his electrifying
urban landscapes and neon-drenched cityscapes.
With a background in illustration and design,
Kitchener has cultivated a distinctive style that
draws inspiration from the vibrant energy of
metropolitan life, particularly in East Asia. His
work, often depicting rainy, atmospheric night
scenes illuminated by glowing streetlights and
neon signs, captures the dynamism and beauty of
urban environments in a cinematic fashion.
Kitchener’s artistic journey has been profoundly
influenced by his travels, particularly to Tokyo, Hong
Kong, and other major Asian cities. These experiences
have shaped his signature aesthetic—blurry,
impressionistic cityscapes that evoke movement,
light, and the ephemeral nature of modern life. His
technique, which employs freehand spray painting
with remarkable precision, creates depth and texture,
lending his pieces a dreamlike yet hyper-real quality.
Among his most notable works are Shinjuku
Nights, a large-scale mural encapsulating the
dazzling vibrancy of Tokyo’s nightlife, and Electric
City, which showcases his mastery of colour, light,
and perspective. His murals, often painted on
towering walls across cities worldwide, transform
urban spaces into immersive, atmospheric worlds.
Kitchener’s ability to fuse the grit of city life
with an almost ethereal beauty has cemented his
reputation as one of the most innovative street
artists of his generation.
www.dankitchener.com
IMAGE: NIKA KRAMER
81

Hull, United Kingdom (2022)

ART CULTURE
DANIEL KITCHENER
Please share a little about your early
artistic influences? Were there any
defining moments?
I had a very creative upbringing. Ever since
I could hold a pencil, I drew and painted,
and I was always very much encouraged by
my parents, especially by my mother, who
used to take us to the woods and different
places to draw what we saw. I was also very
keen on drawing cartoons, collected comics
avidly, and entered numerous competitions,
wining Young Cartoonist of the Year and
some other prizes, which really boosted my
enthusiasm and confidence.
Your background is in illustration and design
- how did this shape your approach to largescale
murals?
While illustration and design are elements
of my creative background, my first
passion has always been pure drawing –
simple pencil or charcoal on paper – and
this forms the basis of all the works I
create, from digital art to huge murals.
Being able to draw is fundamental to what
I do, and it is vital for me to freehand
draw everything, without ever using grids,
guides, or projections.
I was very lucky to be able to unleash
my creativity in first job, in TV postproduction,
creating wonderfully
elaborate animations for mainly
music industry clients, including
Paul McCartney, Kylie, Miley Cyrus,
and Lenny Kravitz. Having always
been fascinated by animation, the
opportunity to create this type of work,
and see it on TV or as huge stage
screens, was a dream come true. The
job also allowed me to explore lighting,
composition, theatrical staging, and tell
stories using imagery. Learning all of
these disciplines over the years, feeds
into the style and content of the murals
I now paint all over the globe.
Your work is renowned for its cinematic,
neon-soaked cityscapes. What is it about
urban life - particularly at night - that
captivates you?
I’ve always been drawn to the city at night,
because it's so full of atmosphere, mystery
and intrigue, as well as danger and
excitement. For me, a city at night is when
it comes to life with so many stories and
I am fascinated by it. The neon-soaked
streets of Tokyo have always particularly
sparked my imagination. The first of
my seven trips to Tokyo was a visual
explosion for me – I wandered the streets
fro midnight 'til 3am taking over 5,000
shots, in an almost trance-like state,
seeing potential painting after potential
painting. That first trip has always
stayed with me, and been the inspiration
for numerous artworks around the world,
both on canvas and in murals, based on
the photos I took in Tokyo.
Many of your murals have a dreamlike,
almost blurred quality, reminiscent of motion
photography. Was this a conscious stylistic
choice or something that evolved naturally?
I am fascinated by the imperfect and
don’t like perfectly posed compositions.
Life isn’t perfect or composed – it can
move in a blur. I prefer the organic,
natural feel of photography that has
blurs, double exposures, and movement.
Often I am in motion when I take shots
– this lends a sense of realism and life
to a photo, as it does to my murals,
which feel authentic and are relatable.
How do your travels, particularly to Tokyo
and other East Asian cities, inform the
atmosphere and energy of your work?
My travels provide me with a vast
and endless source of inspiration
and so many ideas that I just don't
have enough time to explore them all.
Plus, long flights provide me with peace
and time to draw and sketch – I call
it my mile-high sketching club – for I
can draw without distraction for hours
on end.
IMAGE: DAN KITCHENER
London, United Kingdom (2023)
IMAGE: STREETARTATLAS
There is often a sense of solitude within
the bustling cityscapes you create. Is this
a reflection of personal experience, or a
commentary on modern urban life?
Yes, perhaps. I’ve felt quite alone in busy
urban spaces, for people are blurred and
move around whilst I stand still. We have
lost connection with ourselves, although,
within this, there’s a beauty and a
simplicity to the world. I truly feel there
is beauty everywhere – it just depends
on how you look at it. I like to stand,
look, and absorb the energy at all times
of the day. I am also a keen marathon
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
83

ART CULTURE
DANIEL KITCHENER
Carrickfergus, Northern Ireland (2023)
IMAGE: DAN KITCHENER
84
runner and always run when I am in a
city on a mural trip – this helps me feel
the city wake-up and allows me to see the
changing times and lighting. I feel I can
connect with a place by doing this. In fact,
running is vital to my mural trips, both
in the UK and overseas.
Your murals frequently depict rain-soaked
streets - what is it about rain that makes it
such a compelling subject?
Rain creates so much atmosphere,
nostalgia, peace and calm, as well as
beautiful reflections in the streets,
like reflecting a different world in
the pavement, distorting reality. To
me, rain lights-up a city and creates
a visual explosion of colours. And
while everyone runs out of the rain, I
walk into a rain storm. My greatest
inspiration has come from actively
seeking out storms in Hong Kong,
Tokyo, and Miami, laying down on
the wet streets to get low shots, and
filming puddles and street level pics,
often while attracting bemused looks
from passers-by, as I walk around full
of joy. I love being in the rain.
Your large-scale murals are incredibly
detailed. Talk us through the creative process.
I first see a wall via photos and then
during site visits, if possible. I will
usually get inspired immediately and
use this base from which to work.
It's important for me to be able to
change direction totally if I feel the
wall better lends itself to a different
image. I am never set in stone with
what I paint, and have to see the wall
in person, and how it's approached
on foot and seen by passers-by. I've
often totally changed direction, since
I never paint a mural I feel won’t suit
the wall, because it's a living piece of
art. I then use my vast photographic
library to find images that fit my
ideas for the walls, or I'll take fresh
photos around the city. I love this
really natural and organic approach
to painting a new mural.

ART CULTURE
DANIEL KITCHENER
Do you work freehand or do you
meticulously plan compositions
before beginning?
I use my own photographs as visual
references, but work freehand and
sketch out a new mural by eye. Working
freehand gives me the ability to adapt
and change as the mural develops
and to add things and go in different
directions. I don't cut corners for speed
and I won’t project an image on a wall
to save time because it's important to
me to sketch freehand since this forms
the soul of the mural.
How do you navigate the challenges of
working on such an imposing scale, often
in unpredictable outdoor conditions?
Its always, always a challenge. Often
I feel that the image is the easy part,
for the challenge is everything else
around. No one sees the physical,
mental and environmental challenges,
they only see the finished result. But
each mural helps me learn something
new about myself and the world around
me. As challenging as some of them
often are, I love being tested.
Street art is inherently public - do you ever
consider how your audience will interact
with your work while you’re painting?
Yes, of course. I relish opportunities
to speak with people and often these
conversations take me in different
directions. I want people to love what
I’ve created and hope it resonates with
them in some way and brings joy.
You’ve painted murals all over the world.
Are there any particular pieces that hold
special significance for you?
My epic mural in Wynwood Walls in
Miami, on one of the neighbourhood's
most iconic walls, is probably the
highlight of my career to date, and has
become one of the most photographed
murals in the area. I can't thank
enough, Jessica Goldman and Peter
Tunney, founders of Goldman Global
Arts, which curates large, conceptual
projects globally.
Shinjuku Nights and Electric City have
become some of your most recognisable
works – please tell us the story behind them?
These works are based on my
photographs of Tokyo. I painted
murals of them as well as canvases.
Shinjuku is one of Tokyo's most famous
neighborhoods. With its skyscrapers,
neon lights, yakitori stalls, and
stores all vying for attention, buzzing
Shinjuku is one of Tokyo's most famous
neighborhoods, has always fascinated
me, and was the location of most of my
IMAGE: NIKA KRAMER
Miami, United States (2019)
86 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

IMAGE: DAN KITCHENER
Los Alcázares, Spain (2024)
early Japanese exploration. Literally
full of electric neon life and culture,
excitement, colour and vibrancy,
I wanted to convey my passion for
Shinjuku in these works.
Your work has been exhibited in galleries
as well as on the streets. Do you approach
these two spaces differently?
Paintings on canvas of course require
a different approach and I have to be
far more restrained. With murals, I can
put my whole body into creating large
sweeping motions. But the idea and
energy behind them is the same for both,
and I often paint large scale canvas works
which bridge the gap between canvases
and street art, like murals on canvas.
I love the details on canvas works and
distilling the essence of a mural to fit the
proportions of a canvas. It's a wonderful
way to have authentic art with a street
feel, in the home.
Have you ever faced resistance or challenges
in securing legal spaces for your murals?
Not resistance, so much. But it's
sometimes tricky to get walls because
people don’t really understand what the
work will be like and are worried that
it might offend, which it never does, of
course. of course. Often I sit down and
show people examples of my work and
talk with them about what I'm going to
paint to put their minds at rest.
How do you see the role of street art in
contemporary urban culture?
Street art is a wonderful way for the
general public to engage with art
and experience real art being created
as they watch. And open-air urban
galleries have switched so many more
people onto the arts, which can only a
good thing, especially when street art
has changed peoples live and inspired
younger generations. There are so
many artists painting murals today
– when I started, hardly anyone was
painting street art!
Do you believe street art should remain
transient and ephemeral, or do you see
value in preserving certain works?
As much as id like my work to always
remain, I think that the everchanging
landscape is important
to keep street art alive and full of
energy. In fact, I feel that this is vital
to the street art movement.
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
87

ART CULTURE
DANIEL KITCHENER
How has the street art scene changed
since you began, particularly in the UK?
It has totally changed. When I started
painting in Brick Lane 18 years ago,
no-one knew what street art was, people
would stop and stare, and it felt edgy,
underground, and a bit anarchistic and
rebellious. I would skulk around streets
to paint! Today, street art is pretty
mainstream and the general public has
gotten used to it, to a degree.
In a digital age when street art is widely
shared online, does this affect the way you
think about your work’s longevity and reach?
Its a good thing that so many people
see my work and that of other artists,
but I do perhaps feel that this, in a
way, makes the art too disposable.
Nowadays, people are so used to seeing
huge murals, that may take weeks to
paint, that they just pass them in the
street, or swipe right to the next image,
which diminishes the value of the work,
and the time spent creating it.
What emotions or ideas do you hope to
evoke in those who encounter your murals?
My hope is that people are uplifted by my
work, see beauty and light, and it instils
in them a sense of joy. I paint with this
in mind, hoping that this energy and
light comes across in my work. I receive
messages saying how seeing my work
IMAGE: DAN KITCHENER
Wollongong, Australia (2024)
has changed someone's day. Even if one
person says this, I am happy.
Have you ever had particularly memorable
interactions while painting?
I am lucky to have had, over the years,
many people tell me how my work is
affecting them and how grateful they
are to me. Or I’ve had people message
me after I’ve finished a work, and tell
me it has lit up their life, perhaps on
the way to work, for instance.
What advice would you give to aspiring
street artists hoping to establish
themselves in the field?
Focus on the art - only ever focus on the
art - not on the fame, money, or your ego.
Hone your skills, draw everyday, paint,
and practice. Don’t paint for social media
- paint for yourself from your heart.
And don’t cut corners just to post on
Instagram! Most of all, have passion for
what you do, explore, experiment, play,
and don’t be afraid. If you have passion, it
will come across in your work.
Are there any upcoming projects or
collaborations that you’re particularly
excited about?
As my journey as an artist unfolds,
I’ve learnt to just let things present
themselves. I trust in this so I don’t
plan too much. Life has a way
of taking us to the places we
need to be.
IMAGE: DAN KITCHENER
Toome, Northern Ireland (2024)
88 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

Leeuwarden, Netherlands (2023)
IMAGE: DAN KITCHENER

DESTINATION
SPOTLIGHT
GALLE FORT
SRI LANKA
a living
chronicle
of centuries
AN ANCIENT PROMONTORY BY THE SEA, JUST A FEW HOURS' DRIVE
FROM THE ISLAND NATION'S CAPITAL, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
IS DRAWN BACK TO SRI LANKA’S 16TH CENTURY LIVING FORT

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
91

THERE IS SOMETHING
deeply mesmerising about Galle
Fort, something in the way
the light shifts over its ancient
ramparts, in the way the scent
of salt lingers in its narrow lanes, and in the way
time itself seems to flow differently within its
walls. And, once seen, it is rarely somewhere you
are likely to visit just once.
Perched on the southwestern coast of Sri Lanka,
this fortified peninsula, encircled by the ceaseless
rhythm of the Indian Ocean, has been shaped by
the tides – both of history and the sea itself. Here,
where the monsoon winds once carried merchant
ships laden with silks and spices, echoes of distant
worlds still seem to romantically murmur through
the air as you wander its narrow streets.
TO ARRIVE IN GALLE IS TO STEP INTO
a realm that belongs not to any single era
but to many. Its ochre-hued bastions, sturdy
yet obviously timeworn, rise against the
azure sky, sentinels of a past layered with
conquest, commerce, and cultural entanglement.
Yet within its walls, life continues with an
unhurried grace, as if the centuries have
folded into themselves, creating a place where
the past lingers, but never in silence.
A LEGACY CARVED IN STONE
Galle’s recorded history stretches back over two
millennia, long before the first European s
ails appeared on its horizon. Ancient traders
from Arabia, Persia, and India knew it well,
drawn by its strategic location and abundant
92

SPOTLIGHT
GALLE FORT
riches – cinnamon, ivory, and gemstones that
glowed like captured sunlight. But it was in
1505 that a new chapter was inked into the
town’s fate, when the Portuguese first landed
upon its shores.
THE FORTRESS THAT STANDS TODAY,
however, is not their legacy. Their initial
fortifications, hastily constructed and militarily
crude, were soon overshadowed by the more
formidable designs of the Dutch, who wrested
control of Galle in 1640. The Dutch East India
Company, recognising its importance as a
maritime stronghold, reinforced the promontory
with a series of formidable walls, moats,
and bastions, ensuring its dominion over the
surrounding waters.

SPOTLIGHT
GALLE FORT
WHAT THEY BUILT WAS MORE THAN A
military outpost – it was a testament to colonial
ambition, an enclave of European order in
the tropics. The fort became a self-sufficient
township, complete with warehouses, churches,
administrative halls, and a grid of streets that
bore the imprint of meticulous Dutch urban
planning. Even today, its streets retain names
bestowed upon them centuries ago, a palimpsest of
colonial nomenclature etched into the stone.
THE FLOURISHING OF
A COSMOPOLITAN HUB
By the 18th century, Galle Fort had reached its
zenith. A city within walls, it thrived as a hub
where cultures met, mingled, and interwove.
Sinhalese artisans, Dutch merchants, Malay
navigators, and Moorish traders all found a
place here, their lives entangled in the rhythms
of trade and tide. With its deep harbour
welcoming vessels from every quarter of the
known world, Galle was a place of convergence,
its streets a tapestry of languages, attires, and
customs.
YET, DESPITE ITS PROSPERITY, THE
fort’s dominance was not to last. When the
British seized control of Sri Lanka in 1796,
the tide of commerce shifted. Colombo, with
its larger, more modern harbour, soon eclipsed
Galle as the island’s primary maritime
gateway. The fort remained, but its significance
dwindled, its streets no longer the lifeblood of
an empire. The years that followed saw it recede
from the foreground of global affairs, its grand
colonial buildings ageing in quiet dignity, its
ramparts standing as weathered witnesses to
history’s inexorable march.
94 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

Visit charlestongallefort.com
or call +94 74 393 8382

SPOTLIGHT
GALLE FORT
96

A TIMELESS ENCLAVE OF
ARCHITECTURAL GRANDEUR
Today, the fort endures as one of the best
surviving colonial strongholds in all of Asia,
its architectural landscape an evocative blend
of Dutch, Portuguese, and British influences.
Its thick walls, brimming with history, stand
impervious to the encroachments of time, their
surfaces worn smooth by the salty embrace of
the monsoon winds. Within, narrow streets
unfold in a labyrinthine warren, their edges
lined with gabled rooftops, wooden shutters,
and pillared verandahs that speak to a past
both austere and elegant.
AMONG THE FORT’S MOST COMMANDING
features are its bastions – solid, immovable, built
for the defence of empires long vanished. Sitting
on the southernmost point of Galle Fort, the Flag
Rock Bastion, once a strategic lookout, now serves
as a place where locals and visitors gather at
dusk, watching the sun melt into the waves. The
Moon Bastion, the Star Bastion – each has its own
history, its own silent stories embedded in stone.
THE RELIGIOUS AND CIVIC EDIFICES
scattered throughout the enclave are no less
remarkable. Situated near the entrance to the fort,
the Groote Kerk, or Dutch Reformed Church, was
built in 1755 and is one of the oldest Protestant
churches in Sri Lanka, its interior a study in
simplicity and solemnity, with tombstones of
Dutch settlers embedded into the floor. The Meera
Mosque, its white domes and arched colonnades
a striking contrast to the fort’s predominantly
European aesthetic, speaks to the enduring
presence of the Muslim community. And rising
above it all, the old lighthouse, a sentinel of light
against the dark expanse of the ocean, remains a
symbol of Galle’s maritime past.
A LIVING HERITAGE, RESILIENT
AND RENEWED
While history looms large over Galle Fort, it is
no relic. It breathes and positively hums with life.
The rhythm of daily existence unfolds much as it
always has – early mornings punctuated by the
calls of stilt fishermen returning from the sea,
afternoons drowsy with the scent of frangipani
drifting through quiet courtyards, evenings alive
with the distant strains of temple bells mingling
with the murmur of waves against the stone.
IN THE COURTYARDS AND KITCHENS OF
old colonial houses, culinary traditions endure,
passed down through generations. Coconut-laced
curries, fragrant with pandan and lemongrass,
simmer gently over open flames. Hoppers, delicate
and crisp at the edges, arrive at tables filled with
aromatic sambols and slow-cooked chutneys.
The influence of centuries of trade is evident in
every bite, a fusion of indigenous flavours with
the culinary legacies of those who once docked in
Galle’s harbour.

FESTIVALS BRING THE FORT’S CULTURAL
vibrancy to life, nowhere more vividly than
during the annual Galle Literary Festival
every February, when the town transforms
into a gathering ground for writers, poets, and
thinkers from across the world. The spoken word
reverberates against ancient walls, adding yet
another layer to the fort’s storied existence.
galleliteraryfestival.com
A SENTINEL OF STORIES BY THE SEA
Galle Fort is not simply a place, or a destination,
but an inheritance – a chronicle of conquest and
commerce, of ambition and endurance. It has
stood for centuries against the forces of empire
and the ravages of time, yet remains largely
unchanged in essence, its spirit as resolute as
its stone ramparts. To walk its historic streets
is to traverse centuries. To stand upon its walls
is to gaze not just upon the restless ocean, but
upon the ever-turning wheel of history. And
here, within the fort's bastions, beneath the
timeless Sri Lankan sky, the past does not
merely echo – it endures.
Stilt Fisherman

The Tuna & The Crab
Charlie's Bar & Bistro
DRINKING AND DINING
IN GALLE FORT
SET ON SRI LANKA’S
southwestern coastline, the region
surrounding Galle is rich in
agricultural and maritime abundance,
and its food culture is deeply influenced
by both the land and the sea, with local
farms supplying coconuts, papayas,
bananas and other produce, while the
Indian Ocean provides an array of
fresh catches including tuna, prawns,
and crabs. This fusion of fresh, tropical
ingredients shapes the modern cuisine
served in Galle Fort’s eateries, where
innovation meets tradition.
SITUATED IN THE OLD DUTCH
Hospital, which is one of the oldest
buildings in Galle Fort, The Tuna &
The Crab is a relaxed, contemporary
hybrid Japanese and seafood restaurant
serving some of the best food in the
area, while principally celebrating
the best of Sri Lanka's tuna and
crustaceans. Created by celebrated
chef Dharshan Munidasa and launched
just over a decade ago, this is the
place to kick-back and enjoy a refined
seafood experience embodying Japanese
culinary principles, fashioned from the
freshest local ingredients. Not to be
missed is the restaurant's signature Sri
Lankan Mud Crab, coated in a deliciously
thick sauce made with freshly milled
black pepper. For leisurely dinners,
tasting menus deliver bold, clean
flavours that highlight Galle’s maritime
heritage. If you only have time for a
pit-stop, a range of Japanese-style bento
box sets are excellent value, starting at
USD18, and are a stylish way to re-fuel
midway through a busy day.
www.thetunaandthecrab.com
SET JUST METRES FROM THE
ocean within sleek, Art Deco-inspired
surrounds, Charlie’s Bar & Bistro at
The Charleston hotel offers a stylish
and contemporary dining experience,
complete with superb cocktails that
incorporate flavours and spices hailing
from the Indian subcontinent. Be sure
to reserve seats on the popular terrace,
if you want to order sundowners and
watch the sun gently disappear behind
the horizon. Inside, there is plenty of
bar and table seating to get comfy for
a leisurely feast of Tiger Prawn Curry,
made from fresh, locally caught tiger
prawns, coconut milk, roasted masala,
and curry crab broth. Or dive into
a dessert of sugar-dusted cinnamon
doughnuts, served with homemade
chocolate sauce and mango and coconut
ice-cream. Whatever you eat and drink
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SPOTLIGHT
GALLE FORT
at Charlie's will undoubtedly please,
so be sure to allow enough time to
fully enjoy the delicious fare, standout
service, and gorgeous setting. And
don't leave without trying a gin-based
Lemongrass Galle cocktail, or two!
www.charliesbar.lk
HISTORIC 300-YEAR-OLD GALLE
Fort Hotel is home to Ropewalk bar,
which is renowned for its signature
Arrack-based cocktails. A somewhat
timeless spirit distilled from the sap
of the coconut palm, Arrack has begun
its journey to global recognition, not
least thanks to the rather excellent
cocktails prepared at Ropewalk,
which it is worth sampling at least
one of, even if you're not an Arrack
fan. Made with sous-vide ginger and
lemongrass syrup, fresh lime juice,
and Old Cask Arrack spiced for 45-
days, the bar's eponymous Ropewalk
cocktail is the one to try. And whilst
the photogenic bar inside, designed
by Eranga Tennakoon, is the place to
sip a cocktail, be sure to move to the
hotel's beautiful veranda out back,
overlooking the tranquil pool, to order
food and enjoy the lush surroundings.
www.galleforthotel.com
Ropewalk
The Bungalow
NESTLED WITHIN THE HEART
of Galle Fort, The Bungalow is an
enchanting restaurant, bar, and pair
of guest rooms, which offer a uniquely
secluded and homely experience.
Set within a 17th-century heritage
building, guests are shaded by lush
botanicals and established trees
as they tuck into hearty, flavourful
and good value dishes delivered by a
passionate and attentive team. Start
with a refreshing Watermelon and
Feta Salad with basil. Follow with
the moreish, silky and aromatic spicy
Butter Chicken. And finish with
fresh hot Churros, served with an
irresistible chilli chocolate dip. After
your meal, kick-back with a singleestate
tea hailing from one of Sri
Lanka's finest plantations. Once comfy
in The Bungalow, you may be hardpushed
to leave. www.bungalowgalle.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
101

STAYATTHE SUN HOUSE
18 UPPER DICKSON RD, GALLE 80000
SPOTLIGHT
GALLE FORT
ABOUT FIVE-MINUTES BY TUK-TUK
from Galle Fort, The Sun House is the
seaside town's original boutique hotel. As such, the
property encapsulates a fascinating history and
legacy of hospitality. Established in an era marked
by dynamic cultural interplay, the property has
undergone thoughtful modernisation while entirely
honouring its original character and retaining all
of its charm. Today, this storied establishment
has deftly woven together legacy stories and
modern comforts, offering guests a retreat that
is both distinguished and comfortable – a true
home-away-from-home.
ONCE THROUGH ITS GATES AND ENSCONCED
within, the hotel's supremely secluded setting is
soon evident. And with it, a sense of privacy and a
palpable air of calm, sufficient to soothe the mostweary
of travellers, or nurture those most fatigued
by the hectic world outside The Sun House's
protective walls.
The Sun House
MATURE AND VERDANT GARDENS SURROUND
the main house and adjoining guest rooms, providing
ample places to sit and ponder. Lovingly restored
original interiors reveal an intimate ambience where
every detail speaks to a commitment to authenticity.
From the meticulously arranged lighting to the
carefully curated furnishings, everything contributes
to an aesthetic that honours both heritage and
originality. And every guest room and suite is
crafted with such attention to detail, that visitors
are instantly immersed in an environment reflective
of a storied past without sacrificing contemporary
creature comforts. Indeed, rooms are so inviting
and cosy that it is easy to forget that you are
actually staying in a hotel.
The Sun House
THE SUN HOUSE IS NOT MERELY A PLACE TO
stay – it is an experience that celebrates its
heritage and architecture. Elegant in its character,
its narrative unfolds across every space and
established garden path, offering a subtle yet
profound dialogue between tradition and progress.
For those seeking a hotel that marries history
with current sensibilities, this refined haven in
Galle provides an invitation to rediscover the art
of leisurely living and reflective relaxation,
complete with attentive service and
delicious home-cooked meals.
https://thesunhouse.com
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
103

ISLAND HOPPING
CAPRI
ITALY
the island
of eternal
enchantment
KEVIN PILLEY EXPLORES THE SUN-DRENCHED ISLAND OF CAPRI, WHERE
SHEER LIMESTONE CLIFFS PLUNGE INTO A SAPPHIRE SEA, ANCIENT VILLAS
WHISPER SCANDALOUS SECRETS, AND WINDING PATHS LEAD TO BREATHTAKING
VISTAS – EACH STEP A JOURNEY THROUGH A WORLD OF MYTH, INDULGENCE,
AND TIMELESS MEDITERRANEAN ALLURE

105

For centuries, Capri has captivated travellers,
poets, and dreamers, each seduced by its
ineffable charm. Rising from the sapphire
waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, this fabled
island – just a short ferry ride from Naples –
has been a place of indulgence and inspiration, where rugged
cliffs plunge into iridescent coves, and winding paths lead to
vistas that seem almost otherworldly.
It is an isle of paradoxes, where decadent history meets
untamed nature, and where the echoes of Roman emperors
mingle with the chatter of modern-day visitors. Yet, to truly
experience Capri, one must explore it on foot, away from the
bustling Piazzetta and high-end boutiques, along its sinuous
paths and stone-carved stairways, which reveal an island as
intoxicating as the limoncello sipped in its shaded terraces.
A LANDSCAPE OF LEGEND
Capri’s topography is a study in drama – steep limestone
cliffs, hidden grottoes, and verdant terraces cascading
towards the sea. Mythology clings to the island like sea mist.
It was here, legend has it, that the Sirens lured sailors to their
doom, their haunting songs carried across the waves. Homer’s
Odysseus, tied to the mast of his ship, resisted their call –
just as today’s visitors must resist the constant entreaties of
boatmen offering tours of the famed Blue Grotto.
TO ARRIVE IN CAPRI IS TO STEP INTO A WORLD
where time slows. The first glimpse from the ferry – an
ethereal white silhouette against an impossibly blue sky – has
lost none of its magic, just as it entranced Norman Douglas,
Somerset Maugham, and a host of other literary luminaries.
But Capri is best understood not from the water, nor even
from the confines of a sun-drenched café table, but through
the rhythm of one’s own steps.
THE ISLAND OF STEPS
Walking in Capri is not for the faint-hearted. Everything
is either up or down, and the island’s steep inclines are
an inevitable part of the experience. The locals have long
mastered the art of ascent and descent, their lives dictated
The Phoenician Steps
106

ISLAND HOPPING
CAPRI
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
107

La Terrazza di Lucullo
Villa Malaparte
Villa Lysis
IMAGE: HERVÉ SIMON
by ancient stairways chiselled into the rock. The Phoenician
Steps, or Scala Fenicia, linking Marina Grande with
Anacapri, are among the most formidable – 921 vertiginous
steps hewn by Greek settlers, later traversed by monks,
traders, and weary travellers. A funicular offers an easier
alternative, but for the purist, the climb is a rite of passage.
Elsewhere, the Via Migliera, a scenic path leading to
the Philosophical Park, offers a gentler stroll, culminating
in panoramic views of the Faraglioni Rocks – Capri’s iconic
limestone sea stacks, sculpted by time and tide. The Sentiero
dei Fortini, a rugged coastal trail, traces the ruins of old
watchtowers, revealing hidden coves and vertiginous drop-offs
where the waves crash with relentless energy.
ECHOES OF EMPIRE
Capri has long been a sanctuary for those seeking seclusion
and excess in equal measure. The Roman Emperor Tiberius,
tiring of the political intrigues of Rome, retreated here in AD
27, ruling the empire from his cliff-top Villa Jovis. The ruins,
perched 300 metres above the sea, still whisper of imperial
decadence – of lavish banquets, secret passageways, and the
scandalous escapades that inspired Suetonius’ more lurid
accounts.
Further down the island, the 20th-century Villa Lysis tells another
story of hedonistic escape. Built in 1905 by the exiled French poet
and aristocrat Jacques d’Adelswärd-Fersen, it remains a testament
to Capri’s enduring allure for artists, misfits, and free spirits.
A STROLL THROUGH TIME
The heart of Capri town beats in La Piazzetta, a small but
lively square where locals and visitors mingle over espresso
and aperitivi, beneath the watchful gaze of the 17th-century
Church of Santo Stefano. From here, cobbled lanes wind past
bougainvillaea-draped villas, leading to the tranquil Gardens
of Augustus, or Giardini di Augusto, where terraced pathways
spill over the cliffs, offering sublime views of Via Krupp, the
famous serpentine footpath carved into the rock.
For those in search of cultural intrigue, the island’s past
reveals itself in the homes of its more recent luminaries. Axel
Munthe’s Villa San Michele, in Anacapri, is a masterpiece of
understated beauty, with its shaded arcades and panoramic
terraces. The modernist Villa Malaparte, an architectural
wonder perched above the sea, remains a striking emblem of
Capri’s avant-garde spirit. Even the ghost of Lenin lingers here,
his time on the island commemorated by Italy’s only monument
to the Soviet leader, a curious relic of a forgotten visit.
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ISLAND HOPPING
CAPRI

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ISLAND HOPPING
CAPRI
SCENT AND SENSIBILITY
Away from the main thoroughfares, Capri is an island of
scent. The air is thick with the fragrance of jasmine, wild
myrtle, and sun-warmed citrus. Lemon groves spill down
terraced hillsides, their fruit transformed into the island’s
signature limoncello, best enjoyed ice-cold on a shaded terrace.
Wisteria tumbles over ancient stone walls, and broom flowers,
known locally as the “flower of St. Costanzo,” blaze yellow
against the limestone cliffs.
Vineyards cling to the hillsides, producing crisp whites
and robust reds that pair effortlessly with the island’s
cuisine. Here, the simplest dishes sing – fresh vongole tossed
with handmade pasta, buffalo mozzarella still warm from
the morning’s milking, and delicate ravioli Capresi, a local
speciality that speaks of generations of culinary tradition.
A REWARDING INDULGENCE
No visit to Capri would be complete without a moment of
indulgence. For those seeking respite after a day’s exploration,
La Terrazza di Lucullo at the Hotel Caesar Augustus offers a
feast for the senses – both culinary and visual. Perched on a
cliff edge, with a sweeping panorama of the Bay of Naples, it is
a place to linger over a plate of gnocchi alla Sorrentina, paired
with a glass of Falanghina.
Gardens of Augustus
Capri town
La Piazzetta

The Faraglioni Rocks

ISLAND HOPPING
CAPRI
FURTHER INTO CAPRI TOWN, THE LEGENDARY
Grand Hotel Quisisana has long been the preserve of the
well-heeled and well-connected. But for a more intimate
experience, the newly reopened La Palma, the island’s oldest
hotel, offers a nod to its bohemian past. Here, cocktails are
named after Italian gestures – order a “Ma Che Vuoi” with a
flourish, and you may just be rewarded with a knowing smile
from the bartender.
CAPRI'S ENDURING MAGIC
To visit Capri is to enter a world where beauty reigns
supreme. Whether it is the play of light on the Faraglioni at
sunset, the heady scent of citrus in the air, or the languid
pleasure of an evening spent with nothing more pressing than
a chilled Negroni in hand, the island’s spell is inescapable.
It is a place that rewards those who take the time to
wander – to climb its ancient stairways, to discover its hidden
paths, to lose themselves in its quiet corners. Capri is more
than a destination; it is an experience, an intoxicating blend
of nature, history, and indulgence. And as the sun sets behind
its carob-dotted cliffs, casting the island in hues of amber and
rose, one thing becomes clear – Capri is not just a
place to visit. It is a place to return to, time and
time again. www.capri.com
113

SET WITHIN THE STATELY SURROUNDS OF
WHITEHALL, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER REVIEWS
MAURO COLLAGRECO'S ONE MICHELIN-STARRED
RESTAURANT AT LONDON'S HISTORIC OLD
WAR OFFICE; VISITS SAUSKA'S SPECTACULAR
NEW CUTTING-EDGE WINERY IN HUNGARY'S
TOKAJ REGION, AND EXPLORES THE SLOVENIAN
CAPITAL'S BURGEONING FOOD SCENE
JAZ by Ana Roš, Ljubljana
MAURO COLAGRECO AT RAFFLES LONDON
➤ THE OWO, LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM
SAUSKA'S TOKAJ WINERY
➤ RÁTKA, HUNGARY
IMAGE: SUZAN GABRIJAN
LJUBLJANA'S FOOD SCENE
➤ SLOVENIA

REVIEW
IN THE STATELY SURROUNDS OF WHITEHALL, JOE MORTIMER I S
SEDUCED BY A QUINTESSENTIALLY BRITISH RESTAURANT WHERE MENUS
SHIFT WITH THE SEASONS AND HUMBLE VEGETABLES RULE THE ROOST
MAURO COLAGRECO
AT RAFFLES LONDON
➤ THE OWO, LONDON, UK
FOOD
SERVICE
ATMOSPHERE
STEPPING THROUGH AN OAK
doorway on Horse Guards Avenue
held open by a liveried doorman
in a burgundy cape is a suitably
ceremonial start to an evening at
Mauro Colagreco, the signature
dining experience at Raffles at The
OWO. As the first UK outpost for the
eponymous Argentine chef, whose
Cote d’Azur restaurant Mirazur was
awarded three Michelin stars and
the number one spot in the World’s
50 Best Restaurants list in 2019, this
Whitehall destination instils high
expectations. As does the setting.
London’s Old War Office was
the home of the British Army from
1906 until 1964 and the stage on
which numerous historical events
were set. Everything from the
116 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

TASTE & SIP
REVIEW
IMAGE: JUSTIN DE SOUZA
Bread course
IMAGE: MATTEO CARASSALE
Mauro Colagreco
Mauro Colagreco at Raffles London
IMAGE: MAURO COLAGRECO
mosaic tiled floors to the elaborate
moulded ceilings was faithfully
restored to its original glory under
the auspices of the late New York
designer Thierry Despont during a
six-year renovation that concluded in
September 2023 with the opening of
Raffles at The OWO.
TWENTIETH-CENTURY OPULENCE
is replaced by a more residential
feel in the restaurant, where
modest shades of gold and
burnished beige form the backdrop
for colourful pieces from the hotel’s
extensive art collection, including
four illustrations by Sussex-based
artist Claudia Lowry depicting
seasonal British fruit, vegetables,
herbs and flowers; a tantalising
teaser for the gastronomical
journey that follows.
Raddish
IMAGE: JUSTIN DE SOUZA
IT’S QUIET WHEN WE ARRIVE
at 8pm on a chilly mid-January
evening, but so are most restaurants
in London during the doldrum days
after Christmas and New Year.
Nothing lifts the spirits like a glass
of bubbles, and since a celebration of
British ingredients is about to ensue,
it is fitting that we start with a glass
of English sparkling wine served from
a Champagne trolley, the first of many
fanciful touches that weave theatre
into the evening.
A QUARTET OF AMUSE-BOUCHES,
each in their own wild diorama,
make up the prologue: mushroom and
truffle tartlets on a mound of walnuts;
slivers of smoked mackerel with pine
jelly on a tide of seaweed; salty-sweet
cauliflower chocolate caviar on a bed
of straw; and prawn parcel in a supershort
pastry shell on a forest floor of
pine — all accompanied by pillowy
bread and a dangerously moreish
ginger-infused dipping-oil. It’s a
playful prelude to the seasonal story
that’s about to unfold.
“HAVE YOU EVER SEEN ONE OF
these before?” asks the maître d’
wheeling over a cart laden with fresh
garden produce and holding
117

Cheese trolley
aloft a colourful bushel of green,
pink and white leaves. We dutifully
shake our heads as he explains that
it’s rainbow kale, one of the 70-odd
British vegetables and fruits used in
the restaurant. Today we are feasting
upon the ‘Land and Sea’ tasting menu,
a seasonal celebration of the British
landscape, where humble ingredients
are given their moment in the
spotlight, supported by a cast of fresh
produce sourced from local suppliers
across the British Isles.
EACH OF THE FIVE COURSES
are identified on the menu by their
lead ingredient: Radish, Potato,
Beetroot, Kale and Pear. Although
meat is demoted to a supporting role,
it remains a prominent component in
most dishes and can’t help but claim
the spotlight in others.
The first course, Radish, features
a beautifully poached scallop nestled
under a tangle of mooli ribbons cured
in tangy orange, served in a froth
of fermented sea buckthorn oil and
green cardamom. Its, fresh, zesty
and softly bitter, complemented
superbly by the paired glass of
New York State Riesling.
The salted cod salad in the second
course, Potato, gives structure to the
dish, in which the dominant flavour
comes from a caramelized potato
foam dotted with zingy pearls of
Oscietra caviar. The humble spud is
the undisputed hero of the dish; a
bowl of concentrated, buttery delight
with an intensity of salty potato
flavour that’s balanced nicely with a
glass of bone-dry Loire Valley
Chenin Blanc.
In the year-and-a-bit since opening,
Colagreco and his London head chef,
Leonel Aguirre, have built a network
of suppliers from across the British
Isles, working specifically with
farmers and suppliers that champion
sustainable agriculture. One of them
is Paul Rhodes Bakery in Greenwich,
whose London heritage sourdough
loaf makes an unexpected appearance
in a brief interlude between courses,
along with a fluffy, triple-whipped
Devonshire butter. Its deliciousness
is quietly contemplated while reading
an excerpt from Pablo Neruda’s Ode
to Bread, printed out and served
alongside chunky slices.
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TASTE & SIP
REVIEW
THE FINAL ACT, PEAR, GETS
a standing ovation. Shaded by a
gossamer-fine speculoos crisp and a
globe of brioche ice cream, the earthy
pear terrine fits perfectly atop a buttery
crumb base. Accompanied by a glass of
luscious Tokaji Aszu, Napoleon’s tipple
of choice, this is a masterclass
in balance and my stand-out dish for
its harmonious combination of sweet,
salty and crunch.
THROUGHOUT THE PERFORMANCE,
a beautifully illustrated card depicting
each hero ingredient is delivered
alongside each dish, providing a brief
history of its arrival and cultivation in
the UK. As well as providing fodder for
spirited conversations around things
like the origin of potatoes and the
essence of Britishness, the cards firmly
ground each ingredient in its historical
context, and celebrate its role in the
nation’s agricultural heritage.
Digestif Trolley
MAURO COLAGRECO IS NO
stranger to seasonality or championing
lesser-known ingredients. At his
adopted home in Menton in the South
of France, the produce grown in his
five gardens is used exclusively in
IMAGES: JUSTIN DE SOUZA
A PLUMP PIECE OF MONKFISH
sits at the heart of Beetroot, served
with a medley of earthy beets in
different guises: sweet candy cane
striped Chioggia, silky-smooth beet
purée and soft roasted beetroot
accompanied with a matelote sauce
(usually found in a French fish stew)
and long-pepper emulsion foam.
There’s no hiding the perfectly
cooked slice of ex dairy cow sirloin
in the Kale dish, served between
delicate fans of peacock kale with a
deeply delicious lapsang souchong
jus; served with a hearty shot of
beef consommé on the side. It’s both
theatrical and satisfying, enhanced
further by the juicy dark-berry
flavours of a Santa Barbara Syrah
that demands an encore.
Pear
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
119

MAURO COLAGRECO
AT RAFFLES LONDON
FOOD
SERVICE
ATMOSPHERE
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Mauro Colagreco
HEAD CHEF: Leonel Aguirre
ADDRESS: The OWO, 57 Whitehall,
London SW1A 2BX, United Kingdom
TELEPHONE: +44 (0)20 3907 7520
Mirazur, which was also awarded a
Michelin Green Star in 2020 for its
environmental initiatives. In 2022,
Colagreco was named UNESCO
Goodwill Ambassador for Biodiversity,
Red Berry & Shiso
IMAGE: JUSTIN DE SOUZA
a role that has seen him champion
sustainable food choices and
production in front of world leaders
at COP16 in Cali. Today, that work
continues in London.
While the effort to put vegetables
at the forefront is one that challenges
our basic carnivorous preconceptions
of dining, it is an idea that has found
a solid foothold in the menus of Mauro
Colagreco at Raffles at The OWO. By
building dishes around vegetables and
celebrating seasonal produce as a lead
actor rather than an afterthought,
Colagreco is changing the way we
think about food for the better. This
was a thought-provoking meal that
demonstrated extraordinary refinement
and attention to detail; a true
celebration of seasonal British
produce and the natural cycles
that bring food to our table.
IMAGE: JUSTIN DE SOUZA
EMAIL: maurocolagreco.london
WEBSITE:
@raffles.com
www.raffles.com/london
CUISINE: Seasonal British
OPENING HOURS: Lunch Thursday -
Saturday 12.00 - 14.00. Dinner Tuesday
- Saturday 18.00 - 22.00
LUNCH: 3-course set lunch menu
GBP 60 with cheese selection GBP 18
DINNER: 3-course à la carte
Discovery Menu GBP 110
IDEAL MEAL: 5-course Land and Sea
tasting menu GBP 165, with GBP 125
or GBP 425 wine pairing
RESERVATIONS: Essential
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
CHILDREN: Over 12 years old welcome
CREDIT CARDS: All major
PARKING: Chargeable valet
TCT REVIEWER: Joe Mortimer for dinner
Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s
feedback about the food and wine, service, and
the atmosphere in the dining room
120 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

a new era for tokaj wine
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER VISITS SAUSKA'S CUTTING-EDGE TOKAJ WINE
ESTATE, WHERE HISTORY, TERROIR, AND INNOVATION CONVERGE IN A STRIKING
NEW ARCHITECTURAL LANDMARK THAT HAS RESHAPED THE LANDSCAPE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ARCHMOSPHERES.COM
EXPERIENCE
SAUSKA TOKAJ
RÁTKA, HUNGARY
A WINERY IS
never just a place
where wine is made.
More often than not, it is a tapestry
of history, ambition, and artistry,
interwoven with the land from which
it draws its lifeblood. At Sauska’s Tokaj
estate, these elements are not merely
present – they define its very essence.
Here, centuries-old winemaking
traditions meet a forward-thinking
vision, creating wines that honour both
the past and the future.
CHRISTIAN SAUSKA, THE MAN
behind this ambitious enterprise, is no
ordinary vintner. His journey did not begin
among the rolling vineyards of Tokaj, nor
in the cellars of a family deeply entrenched
in the winemaking tradition. Instead,
it all began in a world seemingly far
removed from viticulture – one of precision
engineering and global business.
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
121

BORN IN HUNGARY, SAUSKA GREW
up with an appreciation for craftsmanship
and attention to detail, qualities that
would later define his approach to wine.
His early years were shaped by an
education in electrical engineering, a
discipline that demands both technical
mastery and a relentless pursuit of
perfection. It was not until his move
to the United States, however, that his
passion for wine truly began to take root.
IN AMERICA, SAUSKA BUILT
a successful career in advanced
lighting technologies, working at the
forefront of innovation in optics and
luminescence. The work was demanding,
the environment competitive, but the
rewards were great. Yet, amidst the
rush of corporate life, he discovered
something that would alter his trajectory
– a deep and abiding fascination with
wine, which first manifested itself as a
personal pursuit, a curiosity nurtured
through travel, tastings, and an evergrowing
cellar of bottles from the world’s
most revered regions. Bordeaux, Napa,
Burgundy – each experience refined
Sauska's palate and strengthened his
resolve. Wine, he realised, was more than
a beverage; it was a living expression of
place, time, and human ingenuity.
Winery
Reception

TASTE & SIP
EXPERIENCE
IF GREAT WINE IS BORN IN THE
vineyard, then Sauska’s success is
rooted in the unique geology beneath its
vines. The soils here are rich in rhyolite,
zeolite, and andesite – remnants of
volcanic eruptions that occurred millions
of years ago. This mineral composition
lends an unmistakable purity and
tension to the wines, enhancing both
structure and longevity. But terroir is
not merely about soil. The climate plays
an equally vital role. The long, warm
summers and cool autumns create
ideal conditions for slow, even ripening,
allowing the grapes to develop nuanced
flavours while maintaining their vibrant
acidity. The presence of the Bodrog
and Tisza rivers introduces morning
mists that encourage the development
of Botrytis cinerea, the noble rot
responsible for Tokaj’s legendary sweet
wines. It is this confluence of elements –
soil, climate, and tradition – that gives
Sauska’s wines their signature finesse.
THIS REALISATION SOON EVOLVED
into something more than admiration.
It became a calling. While still
immersed in his corporate career,
Sauska made the bold decision to
return to his homeland and invest
in the art of winemaking. At this
time, Hungary, with its deep-rooted
traditions and unparalleled terroir,
was something of a sleeping giant on
the world wine stage. He saw potential,
not just for revival but for reinvention.
And so began a journey that would
eventually lead to the creation of one of
Hungary’s most pioneering wineries.
TO UNDERSTAND SAUSKA’S WINES,
one must first understand Tokaj itself.
Nestled in the northeast of Hungary,
this historic wine region is a sanctuary
for viticulture, its landscape shaped by
time and volcanic activity. The winery
sits just outside the village of Mád, an
area that has been at the heart of Tokaj
winemaking for centuries.
The Sauska estate occupies a
privileged position on the southern
slope of Padi Hill, where vineyards
stretch towards the horizon, their
orderly rows a quiet testament to the
toil of generations. This is not just any
wine region. Tokaj is one of the oldest
classified wine-producing areas in the
world, recognised by UNESCO for its
unparalleled contribution to viticulture.
The land, with its undulating
topography and ancient volcanic soils,
offers something truly rare: a terroir
capable of producing wines of astonishing
depth and complexity.
WHILE TOKAJ’S LEGACY HAS
long been synonymous with its worldrenowned
Aszú wines, Sauska has never
been one to simply follow the expected
path. The winery’s portfolio is a study
in balance – respecting the traditions
of the region while embracing a broader,
more contemporary vision.
The Tokaji Aszú, made from handselected
botrytised grapes, remains
a centrepiece of the collection. These
wines, aged patiently in Hungarian
oak, exhibit extraordinary depth –
honeyed apricots, saffron, and orange
peel intertwined with a striking acidity
that ensures freshness and longevity.
But Aszú is not the sole expression
of Tokaj’s potential. In a bold move,
Sauska has also focused on dry wines,
proving that the Furmint grape – so
often the backbone of sweet wines
– can stand alone with poise and
precision. The estate’s dry Furmint is
taut and electric, its mineral backbone
enlivened by citrus, pear, and a whisper
of white flowers. Hárslevelű, another
indigenous variety, adds a touch of
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EXPERIENCE
124 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

Padi Restaurant
softness to certain blends, bringing notes
of honey and spice. But perhaps the most
surprising evolution at Sauska has been
the introduction of sparkling wines.
Drawing on the expertise of acclaimed
consultant Régis Camus, the winery has
embraced the Méthode Traditionnelle,
crafting sparkling wines that rival those
of Champagne. These cuvées, composed
primarily of Furmint, Chardonnay, and
Pinot Noir, exhibit a remarkable balance
of tension and complexity, redefining what
Hungarian sparkling wine can achieve.
GREAT WINEMAKING REQUIRES
not just vision but an environment that
nurtures both innovation and tradition.
Nowhere is this philosophy more evident
than in Sauska’s new state-of-the-art
winery, perched atop Padi Hill. Designed
by BORD Architectural Studio, the
structure is a striking departure from
conventional winery aesthetics.
Rather than a single imposing edifice,
the design is defined by two sculptural,
lens-shaped volumes that seemingly hover
over the landscape. These 36-metre-wide
circular forms house the public areas,
including the restaurant and bar, creating
an immersive experience that is both
intimate and expansive. Yet the choice
of architecture is not merely stylistic.
Every aspect of the building has been
meticulously planned to harmonise
with the environment. Large glass
facades invite the outside in, offering
uninterrupted views of the vineyards
while flooding the interior with natural
light. The winery’s position on the
southern slope maximises solar exposure,
contributing to both energy efficiency
and an enhanced visitor experience.
And the materials chosen – concrete,
wood, and steel – reflect a deep respect
for the natural surroundings, blending
seamlessly with the volcanic terrain.
BEYOND ITS STRIKING
aesthetics, the facility is a triumph of
technical innovation. Equipped with
cutting-edge vinification technology, it
allows for absolute precision at every stage
of the winemaking process. Gravity-fed
systems ensure minimal handling of the
grapes, preserving their integrity from
harvest to fermentation. Temperaturecontrolled
fermentation tanks allow the
winemakers to fine-tune the expression
of each vintage, while an underground
ageing cellar provides the perfect
conditions for wines to evolve gracefully
over time. This marriage of form and
function is particularly evident in the way
the winery facilitates both production
and hospitality. A seamless flow between
workspaces and visitor areas allows guests
to witness the winemaking process in
real-time, fostering a deeper appreciation
for the craft. And the restaurant, with its
panoramic vistas, elegant minimalist design
and beautiful detailing, serves as the most
fitting of stages for Sauska’s wines and the
delicious seasonal cuisine of chef Attila
Bicsár, offering pairings that highlight the
wines' nuanced character.
SAUSKA’S TOKAJ ESTATE IS MORE
than a winery – it is an oenological
statement. A statement that Hungarian
wine belongs on the world stage. A
statement that innovation and tradition
need not be at odds. A statement that great
wine is as much about place as it is about
process. For those who are lucky enough to
visit, the experience is unforgettable. For
those who taste the wines, the
story of Tokaj is told in every sip.
https://sauska.hu/en/tokaj
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
125

FROM TRADITIONAL DISHES TO CUTTING-EDGE CULINARY
CREATIONS, WITH LOCAL WINEMAKERS AND INNOVATIVE CHEFS
LEADING THE WAY, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU UNCOVERS WHY
THE SLOVENIAN CAPITAL IS A MUST-VISIT FOR FOOD LOVERS
LJUBLJ
FOOD SCENE

IMAGE: NIKE KOLEZNIK
ANA
IMAGE: SUZAN GABRIJAN
JAZ by Ana Roš
LJUBLJANA
➤ SLOVENIA
SLOVENIA IS A LAND
that shapes its flavours,
and its captivating heart,
Ljubljana, is a city of balance – where oldworld
charm meets contemporary ambition,
where tradition informs innovation, and
where a reverence for the land defines what
arrives on your plate. Slovenia’s capital is set
against a landscape that has long dictated
the rhythm of life for its farmers, fishermen,
and winemakers. Encircled by rolling hills,
fertile valleys, and the emerald ribbon of the
Ljubljanica River, the city’s surroundings are
as generous as they are diverse.
For generations, these landscapes have shaped
the way Slovenes eat. Farming here has never
been about excess; it is about balance, about
taking what the land willingly offers. In
Ljubljana’s food markets, the influence of this
ethos is clear: wild mushrooms foraged from
the deep forests, plump river trout caught in
pristine waters, and heirloom grains that have
nourished Slovenian families for centuries.
Today’s chefs may have their eyes set on the
future, but their foundations remain firmly
rooted in this landscape of abundance.
IMAGE: ANDREJ TARFILA
SLOVENIA’S COMPACT GEOGRAPHY
grants it a rare culinary advantage: it
borrows from the Alpine, Mediterranean,
and Pannonian worlds. To the north, highland
pastures yield exceptional dairy, while
the Adriatic coast, just over an hour away,
supplies the markets with fresh seafood.
The country’s eastern plains, once part of
the Austro-Hungarian Empire, bring a rustic,
hearty sensibility to many dishes, while
the Karst region’s rugged limestone terrain
nurtures the distinctive flavours of prosciutto
and truffles.
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
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TASTE & SIP
FOOD SCENE
FROM HEARTY CLASSICS TO
STREET-FOOD DELIGHTS
There is comfort in tradition and
Slovenian cuisine is deeply tied to
its agrarian past, yet it is anything
but stagnant. Traditional dishes are
robust, wholesome, and often born out
of necessity. Žganci, a simple yet deeply
satisfying dish made from buckwheat
flour, has sustained generations of
workers, while štruklji, delicate rolled
dumplings filled with cottage cheese,
walnuts, or tarragon, embody the
country’s penchant for both sweet and
savoury comfort. Stews are ubiquitous,
from jota, a hearty mix of sauerkraut,
beans, and potatoes, to bograč, a slowsimmered
dish reminiscent of Hungarian
goulash.
Yet Ljubljana is not only a city of
time-honoured recipes – it is also a place
where food adapts to modern tastes. The
city’s growing street-food culture is a
testament to this evolution. Central
Market, the beating heart of Ljubljana’s
daily food trade, is where farmers,
butchers, and cheesemakers showcase
the country’s bounty. Among the stalls,
one might find Slovenia’s famed sausage,
klobasa, served with crusty bread and a
dollop of fiery mustard, or burek, a flaky,
cheese-filled pastry of Ottoman origin,
enjoyed by locals at all hours.
Equally beloved is čevapčiči, a
dish shared with Slovenia’s Balkan
neighbours, featuring grilled minced
meat, typically accompanied by
flatbread and ajvar, a smoky red pepper
spread. Meanwhile, ocvirki – crisp
pork cracklings – find their way into
everything from breads to hearty
polentas. What makes Ljubljana’s street
food remarkable is not just its variety,
but its insistence on quality;
IMAGE: MIHA MALLY
Striček chef Blaž Marincelj
Ljubljana Castle Vineyard
IMAGE: SUZAN GABRIJAN
128 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

Ljubljana Castle
Strelec
IMAGE: DEAN DUBOKOVIC
129

City view from Ljubljana Castle
130 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

TASTE & SIP
FOOD SCENE
Striček
IMAGE: SUZAN GABRIJAN
even the simplest of bites reflect the same
commitment to fresh, locally sourced
ingredients that define the city’s finer
dining establishments.
Ana Roš
are a testament to Slovenia’s deep-rooted
connection to winemaking, and the
castle's wines are popular.
www.ljubljanskigrad.si/en
IMAGE: MATEJ KASTELIC
A NATION ROOTED IN WINE
To understand Slovenia’s gastronomic
identity, one must first appreciate its wine
culture. Despite its small size, Slovenia
boasts an extraordinary viticultural
tradition, with thousands of wineries
producing some of the most compelling
wines in Central Europe. Winemaking is
not just an industry here – it is a way of
life, seamlessly woven into the country’s
identity.
Nowhere is this more evident than
in the hills that surround Ljubljana.
Even the city’s most iconic landmark,
Ljubljana Castle, has its own vineyard, a
nod to the capital’s historic relationship
with viticulture. Though the Belpin and
Rdečegrac grapes grown on the castle's
1,050 vines produce relatively little, they
IMAGE: SUZAN GABRIJAN
BEYOND THE CAPITAL, ONE OF
the most revered names in Slovenian
winemaking is Movia. Situated in the
Brda region, Movia is more than just
a winery – it is a philosophy. Founded
in 1820, the estate is known for its
biodynamic approach and an unwavering
commitment to purity. Movia’s signature
wines, from the luminous Lunar to the
expressive Ribolla Gialla, embody an
ethos of minimal intervention, allowing
the land to speak for itself. And while
charismatic owner of Movia winery, Aleš
Kristančič, is the wild guy of Slovenian
wine and almost certainly the country's
most well-known winemaker, Kristančič
is something of an oenological visionary
and the 23 natural wines he produces
are truly outstanding. https://movia.si
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
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TASTE & SIP
FOOD SCENE
UNBEKNOWN TO EVEN SOME OF
the most seasoned of gourmands,
Slovenian wines, particularly its
whites, have long been regarded as
some of Europe’s best-kept secrets.
Varieties such as Rebula, Malvazija,
and Šipon express the nuances of
their terroir with remarkable clarity.
Meanwhile, the country’s orange
wines (whites made using extended
skin contact) have found an eager
audience of sommeliers and collectors.
With winemaking traditions that
date back over 2,400 years, Slovenia
is not merely following global trends,
it is reclaiming its place among the
world’s great wine-producing nations.
PIONEERING A NEW
CULINARY ERA
At the forefront of Slovenia’s
contemporary food scene are chefs who
honour tradition while challenging its
boundaries. Few have done so with the
same impact as Ana Roš, whose work
at Hiša Franko has propelled Slovenian
gastronomy onto the world stage. Selftaught
yet fearless, Roš crafts dishes
that are as poetic as they are precise,
drawing from the rich bounty of the Soča
Valley. Her culinary philosophy is one
of intuition and exploration, combining
hyper-local ingredients with refined,
unexpected techniques.
But Roš is not alone in redefining
Slovenian cuisine. A new generation
of chefs is shaping Ljubljana’s dining
landscape, each with a unique
approach to innovation. Whether
embracing fermentation, championing
indigenous ingredients, or introducing
contemporary twists to rustic classics,
these chefs are ensuring that Slovenia’s
food culture remains dynamic, exciting,
and utterly singular.
Ales Kristančič of Movia

An Art Nouveau Hospitality
Landmark in Ljubljana Since 1905
111
Elegant Guest
Rooms & Suites
16
Function rooms
for conferences
1
Deluxe Spa
GRAND HOTEL UNION EUROSTARS
Miklošičeva ulica 1, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
www.grandhotelunioneurostars.com

IMAGE: NIKE KOLEZNIK
Movia Winery
IMAGE: SUZAN GABRIJAN
JAZ by Ana Roš
DINING IN LJUBLJANA:
A CITY OF FLAVOURS
Tucked away in an unassuming
corner of Ljubljana, Striček is a
hidden gem where the city’s culinary
heritage is celebrated with sincerity.
Its menu is an ode to Slovenia’s rural
traditions, featuring seasonal dishes
that highlight local produce. From
slow-cooked meats to inventive takes
on humble vegetables, each plate tells
a story of Slovenia’s agrarian roots
while embracing a modern sensibility.
Striček’s approach to dining is
personal, welcoming, and above all,
focused on flavour. Open from 6am
'til 6pm Monday to Friday only, and
owned and run by the Marincelj clan
for three generations, the restaurant’s
homely atmosphere allows guests to
feel as though they are sitting down to
a family meal, but one elevated by chef
Blaž Marincelj’s expert but humble
touch. Every dish is constructed to evoke
nostalgia while still surprising the diner
with unexpected flavour combinations.
The simplicity of the menu is its charm,
allowing the ingredients to shine. Whether
it’s the rich flavours of locally sourced
meats or the delicate freshness of seasonal
vegetables, Striček is a celebration of
the Slovenian land’s offerings. And the
roasted veal liver is not to be missed!
www.stricekrooms-ljubljana.si
A MORE CASUAL YET EQUALLY
intriguing venture from Ana Roš, JAZ
is a vibrant expression of contemporary
Slovenian cuisine. Located in the city
centre, this restaurant plays with bold
flavours and unexpected pairings,
offering a menu that reflects Roš’s
signature spontaneity. Here, you might
encounter delicate river fish paired
with fermented foraged herbs or a
reimagined version of a traditional
dumpling, proving that even the most
familiar dishes can be transformed
into something extraordinary. JAZ
is a testament to Roš’s fearless
creativity, where each dish challenges
preconceptions while still maintaining
134 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

IMAGE: ANDREJ TARFILA
a deep respect for the region’s flavours.
It’s a playful, modern take on Slovenian
cuisine, yet it never loses touch with the
authenticity that has come to define Roš’s
work. https://jaz.anaros.eu
HOUSED WITHIN THE HISTORIC
walls of Ljubljana Castle, one Michelinstarred
Strelec blends medieval
grandeur with avant-garde gastronomy
to create a unique year-round dining
experience, complete with panoramic
views across the city. Talented chef Igor
Jagodic crafts an experience that is both
immersive and refined, weaving together
historical influences with cutting-edge
techniques. Dishes often feature wild
IMAGE: DEAN DUBOKOVIC
The Restaurant
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
135

game, rare herbs, and forgotten grains,
resurrecting centuries-old recipes while
infusing them with contemporary flair.
Diners at Strelec are treated not only
to a fine meal but to a journey through
Slovenia’s culinary history. The
ambiance of the castle itself,
combined with the restaurant’s
modern approach to ancient recipes,
creates an unparalleled dining
experience. Opt for the five-course
tasting menu with paired wines and
every dish will surely impress.
www.restavracija-strelec.si/en
Chef Ana Roš at Hiša Franko
Hiša Franko
IMAGE: SUZAN GABRIJAN
WITH A NAME AS UNASSUMING
as its exterior, The Restaurant is a
masterclass in understated excellence.
Nestled in the heart of Ljubljana, it is
a sanctuary for those who appreciate
precision and restraint. The menu
is ingredient-driven, allowing
each component to shine without
unnecessary embellishment. From
meticulously aged beef to delicately
smoked river fish, every dish is a study
in balance. The focus is on simplicity,
allowing the natural flavours to speak
for themselves. It is an ideal place for
the discerning diner, where every detail
– from the composition of a dish to its
presentation – is honed to perfection.
www.therestaurant.si/en
THOUGH NOT IN LJUBLJANA
itself, three Michelin-starred Hiša
Franko is a pilgrimage-worthy
destination for any serious gastronome
visiting Slovenia. Ana Roš’s flagship
restaurant in the Soča Valley is a
world unto itself, where ingredients are
sourced from nearby meadows, rivers,
and farms. The menu is a fluid narrative
of the seasons, with dishes that evoke
both the raw beauty and quiet elegance
of the Slovenian countryside. Roš’s
philosophy at Hiša Franko is one of deep
connection to the land and its rhythms.
Every meal tells a story, not just of
the region’s produce but of its people,
culture, and traditions. Each plate is a
sensory journey, where flavours are not
only tasted but felt, making it clear why
Roš has garnered international acclaim.
www.hisafranko.com
136 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

TASTE & SIP
FOOD SCENE
A BURGEONING
CULINARY CAPITAL
With its rich tapestry of culinary
influences, Ljubljana is rapidly cementing
its place as a gastronomic destination. From
the influences of its varied landscapes to
the creativity of its chefs, the city offers a
dining experience that is as diverse as it is
unforgettable. The restaurants of Ljubljana
and the surrounding regions showcase the
best of Slovenian culinary heritage while
pushing the boundaries of what food can
be. Whether in the intimate warmth of
Pri Stričku or the cutting-edge creativity
of Hiša Franko, a palpable sense of
gastronomic excitement fills the air at
every turn.
AT THE SAME TIME, THE CITY’S
deep connection to its land and its
wines – from the vineyards of Ljubljana
Castle to the biodynamic practices of
Movia – reminds diners that Slovenia’s
culinary soul is deeply tied to its natural
environment. Ljubljana’s food scene
is about more than just fine dining; it
is about celebrating the flavours of a
nation that has spent centuries refining
its culinary craft. And for the modern
traveller with a discerning palate,
Ljubljana is a city well worth exploring –
one dish at a time.
With thanks to Visit Ljubljana
www.visitljubljana.com/en and the
Slovenian Tourism Board
www. slovenia.info/en/
Ales Kristančič of Movia
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
137

TASTE & SIP
FOOD SCENE
GRAND HOTEL
UNION EUROSTARS
1 MIKLOŠIČEVA CESTA 1, LJUBLJANA 1000
NESTLED IN THE VERY HEART OF LJUBLJANA, JUST STEPS
from the historic Triple Bridge connecting the historical
medieval town on the southeastern bank with Prešeren Square, Hotel
Union has been an enduring symbol of the city’s since its opening in
1905. Its foundations were laid at a time when Ljubljana was undergoing
a transformation – an era of Austro-Hungarian grandeur, when the city
embraced Art Nouveau flourishes and a growing sense of identity.
The hotel quickly became a social hub, welcoming a steady stream of
aristocrats, artists, and dignitaries who passed through the Slovenian capital on
their way to Vienna or the Adriatic coast. With its stately façade and refined
interiors, it was a place where old-world charm met modern comfort, offering
guests a taste of cosmopolitan luxury in an intimate, picturesque setting.
preserved and adapted, blending historic elegance with modern touches to
ensure that it remains as relevant today as it was over a century ago.
MOST IMPORTANTLY FOR CULTURED TRAVELLERS, THE HOTEL'S LOCATION
is unsurpassed. To step outside is to find oneself at the epicentre of Ljubljana
– where cobbled streets lead to riverside cafés, the Baroque beauty of the Old
Town unfolds in every direction, and the castle watches serenely from above.
Whether for a leisurely stay or a brief encounter with history, the Grand Hotel
Union Eurostars remains an essential part of the city’s hospitality tapestry, and is
the best base from which to explore the charismatic Slovenian capital.
https://www.eurostarshotels.co.uk
THROUGH THE DECADES, THE HOTEL BORE WITNESS TO THE SWEEPING
changes of the 20th century, from the twilight of the empire to the rise of
Yugoslavia and, ultimately, Slovenia’s independence. Yet, despite the passage
of time, its spirit remained intact. The building itself has been lovingly
138 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

LITTLE BLACK BOOK
WEB DIRECTORY FOR ISSUE 49 O F
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE
AAFRIKABURN
➤ www.afrikaburn.com
ARTYZEN SINGAPORE
➤ www.artyzenhotelsandresorts.com
ASIAMA GALERIE
➤ www.asiama.fr
R
RAFFLES LONDON AT THE OWO
➤ www.raffles.com/london
ROLAND-GARROS
(FRENCH OPEN)
➤ www.rolandgarros.com
ROPEWALK BAR
➤ www.galleforthotel.com
ROSEWOOD LUANG PRABANG
➤ www.rosewoodluangprabang.com
WEB DIRECTORY
BBRIGHTON FESTIVAL
➤ www.brightonfestival.org
BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT
➤ https://burgenstockresort.com
CCANAVES ENA
➤ www.canaves.com
CAPRI TOURISM
➤ www.capri.com
CASA BRERA
➤ www.casabrera.com
CASA LOMA BEACH HOTEL
➤ www.casalomalagunabeach.com
CHARLIE’S BAR & BISTRO
➤ www.charliesbar.lk
DDAN KITCHENER
➤ www.dankitchener.com
EEUROVISION SONG CONTEST
➤ https://eurovision.tv
FF1 BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX
➤ www.bahraingp.com
FREE THE BEARS
➤ www.freethebears.org
MandaLao Elephant Conservation, Luang Prabang
H
HAY FESTIVAL WALES
➤ www.hayfestival.com/wales
HIŠA FRANKO
➤ www.hisafranko.com
HOMM SOUVANNAPHOUM
LUANG PRABANG
➤ www.hommhotels.com
HOTEL MORRIS
➤ https://hotelmorris.com.au
IICONIC MARJORIE HOTEL
➤ www.iconicmarjorie.com
ITB BERLIN
➤ www.itb-berlin.de
JJAZ BY ANA ROŠ
➤ https://jaz.anaros.eu
LLJUBLJANA CASTLE
➤ www.ljubljanskigrad.si/en
LONDON MARATHON
➤ www.londonmarathonevents.co.uk
LOST IN BAAN
➤ https://lostinbaan.com
LUANG PRABANG TOURISM
➤ www.tourismluangprabang.org
MMANDAI RAINFOREST RESORT
➤ www.banyantree.com
MANDALAO ELEPHANT
CONSERVATION
➤ www.mandalao.org
MAURO COLLAGRECO AT
RAFFLES LONDON
➤ www.raffles.com/london
MOVIA WINES
➤ https://movia.si
IMAGE: JORDAN BROWN
SSAUSKA TOKAJ
➤ https://sauska.hu/en/tokaj
SINGITA KILIMA
➤ www.singita.com
SLOVENIAN TOURISM BOARD
➤ www.slovenia.info/en
SNOWBOMBING
➤ www.snowbombing.com
SOFITEL COTONOU
MARINA HOTEL
➤ https://sofitel.accor.com
STRELEC, LJUBLJANA
➤ www.restavracija-strelec.si/en
STRIČEK, LJUBLJANA
➤ www.stricekrooms-ljubljana.si
SWISSOTEL ULUDAG BURSA
➤ www.swissoteluludagbursa.com
TTHE BUNGALOW
➤ www.bungalowgalle.com
THE RESTAURANT
➤ www.therestaurant.si/en
THE SEBEL WELLINGTON
➤ www.thesebel.com
THE SUN HOUSE
➤ https://thesunhouse.com
THE TOKYO EDITION, GINZA
➤ www.editionhotels.com
THE TUNA & THE CRAB
➤ www.tunaandthecrab.com
GGALLE LITERARY FESTIVAL
➤ https://galleliteraryfestival.com
GRAND HOTEL UNION
EUROSTARS
➤ www.eurostarshotels.co.uk
PPAN PACIFIC ORCHARD
➤ www.panpacific.com
VVALENCIA TOURISM
➤ www.visitvalencia.com
VISIT LJUBLJANA
➤ www.visitljubljana
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 139

suite with a view
GRAND MANDAI TREEHOUSE
MANDAI RAINFOREST RESORT BY BANYAN TREE ➤ SINGAPORE
SET WITHIN A 126-HECTARE
integrated wildlife and nature
reserve in northern Singapore, on the
edge of the island nation’s bustling cityscape, Mandai
Rainforest offers an enchanting escape into the lush
embrace of Mother Nature, its emerald canopies and
winding trails set against a gentle backdrop of exotic
birdsong and rustling leaves. A world away from the
city’s towering skyscrapers, the rainforest unfurls
its secrets in quiet whispers, inviting guests to lose
themselves in a place where nature reigns and the air is
thick with the scent of damp earth and verdant foliage.
NESTLED WITHIN THE RESERVE AND
conceptualised by award-winning WOW architects
with biophilic design at its heart, new 338-room
Mandai Rainforest Resort by Banyan Tree occupies
a 4.6-hectare site designed around mature trees, and
seamlessly blends-in with its natural surroundings.
Perched amongst the treetops overlooking the
Upper Seletar Reservoir and merging effortlessly
with the rainforest canopy, the resort’s Grand Mandai
Treehouses draw inspiration from the seed pods
of the handsome Purple Millettia trees which are
indigenous to the region. Spacious, airy, and secluded,
complete with a private outdoor space overlooking the
lush surroundings, these unique treehouses provide the
perfect escape from hectic city life and an opportunity
to reconnect with nature.
www.banyantree.com
140 ISSUE 49 MARCH – MAY 2025

HOTEL RESTAURANT BAR
TORTUE.DE