(48) The Cultured Traveller, December 2024-February 2025 Issue 48

➤ ISSUE 48

DEC 2024 - FEB 2025

UK £10 EU €10

Kyoto

JAPAN‘S CULTURAL

HEARTBEAT

THE TREK OF A LIFETIME TO EVEREST BASE CAMP ➤ THE SIAM

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Shingon Buddhist temple, Daigo-ji, in Fushimi-ku, Kyoto, Japan

ISSUE 48 ➤ DECEMBER 2024 – FEBRUARY 2025

highlights

48 THE CRADLE OF ANCIENT

JAPANESE CULTURE

The pinnacle of Japanese history and civilisation, the former capital of the land of the rising sun also

combines big city sophistication with small town charm. Very much Japan's cultural heartbeat today,

Alex Benasuli explores dark wood pagodas, torii gates, and thousand-year-old temples in KYOTO.

84 THE TREK OF A LIFETIME

TO EVEREST BASE CAMP

Weaving through breathtaking Nepalese landscapes, ancient monasteries, winding rivers, and

Sherpa culture, Nicholas Chrisostomou embarks upon an epic adventure to the spectacular

foot of the world's highest peak, which sits at more than 5,300 metres above sea level.

76 THE EXTRAORDINARY ARTISTIC

LEGACY OF HEIDI HORTEN

The Cultured Traveller explores the artistic legacy of Austria's wealthiest woman, who amassed

a near billion-dollar art collection during her lifetime, which is now on permanent display in a

magnificent new museum in the heart of Vienna.

128 THE ARCHITECT OF

BESPOKE HAIR ELEGANCE

With a global empire of hair spa salons and a lifelong commitment to his craft, visionary hairdresser,

ROSSANO FERRETTI, chats to The Cultured Traveller about his revolutionary ‘Method’ haircut and

transforming hairdressing into an art form.

46 WIN A LIMITED EDITION

BRONZE VERTEX WATCH

Retailing at more than two thousand pounds, VERTEX's limited edition bronze B36 timepiece was

inspired by the iconic watches historically supplied to British forces, and was meticulously crafted

to commemorate the 80th anniversary of D-Day.

68

31

CONTENTS

22

44

8 CONTRIBUTORS

10 EDITOR’S LETTER

12 NEWSFLASH

From the French city of Lyon's

dazzling citywide display

of street and architectural

illuminations. FÊTE DES

LUMIÈRES, and the Anatolian

city of Konya's annual

MEVLÂNA FESTIVAL

of Turkey's mesmerising

whirling dervishes, to one the

Caribbean's oldest surviving

street festivals, JUNKANOO

in the Bahamas, and New

Zealand’s vast multi awardwinning

music festival,

RHYTHM & VINES, in

NewsFlash, The Cultured Traveller

rounds-up standout events

happening around the world during

the festive season and beyond.

28 REST YOUR HEAD

From a secluded one-of-a-kind

boutique hotel in Sri Lanka,

THE ROUND HOUSE, surrounded

by fields of tea and cinnamon, to

Ritz-Carlton's sumptuous new

uper-yacht with six restaurants

and more than 200 suites, ILMA;

Haute Montagne's latest ultraluxe

chalet, LORD OF SNOW in

Courchevel 1850, and the reborn

lodge, SINGITA EBONY, which

launched the brand three decades

ago, The Cultured Traveller explores

a dozen unique places to rest your

head across the planet.

68 SUITE ENVY: THE SIAM

Set along the banks of the

mighty Chao Phraya, standing

as an oasis of enchanting design,

timeless elegance, and Thai heritage,

Nicholas Chrisostomou checks-into a

serene riverside villa at THE SIAM.

48

6 ISSUE 48 DECEMBER 2024 – FEBRUARY 2025

76 13

98 SPOTLIGHT: KANDY

Surrounded by lush hill country, and the

island nation's second largest city after

Colombo, Carolyn McKay is enchanted

by the history, architecture, and

traditions of Sri Lanka's former royal

capital of KANDY.

114 TASTE & SIP REVIEW:

BUNGALO34

In a waterside location in Dubai,

overlooking the Arabian Gulf, an

outstanding riviera-style restaurant

hugely impresses with its personalised

décor, delicious and unpretentious

cuisine, attentive service, and

warm atmosphere.

119 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER:

NIHONBASHI

The first Sri Lankan eatery

to make it onto the coveted Asia's

50 Best Restaurants list, and

remain there for six years, Nicholas

Chrisostomou visits the new location

of celebrated chef and restaurateur

Dharshan Munidasa's Japanese

restaurant, NIHONBASHI.

124 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER:

CAFÉ SAVOY

MasterChef Finland judge and chefpatron

of one of Finland most revered

restaurants, The Cultured Traveller

checks out Helena Puolakka's new

French brasserie, located in the heart

of Helsinki.

130 CHRISTMAS GIFTS GALORE

Whether you're shopping for a

fashionista, foodie, a homebody, or an

art aficionado, there's something for

pretty much everyone in Adrian Gibson's

curated round-up of fabulous gifts.

141 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured

in issue 48 of The Cultured Traveller

magazine.

142 SUITE WITH A VIEW

Featuring just 24 bedrooms and suites

slotted into a 16th-century palazzo,

AMAN VENICE's Grand Canal Suite

boasts magnificent eye-level views of

the famed city's main waterway.

84

114

124

98 130

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

7

ALEX BENASULI

➤ WROTE ABOUT ➤ KYOTO, JAPAN

London-based Alex has been globetrotting his whole

life. He has explored Europe, Asia and Africa, as well

as North and South America intimately. As passionate

on a highbrow urban cultural break as he is on an offthe-beaten-track

adventure, Alex uses travel to explore

his love of history, design, nature and wellness.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Adrian Gibson, Carolyn McKay, Alex Benasuli

Carol Sachs, Howard Healy

WITH THANKS TO

Jason Friedman, Namgyal Sherpa, Elena Sen

Pasang Temba Sherpa, Lhakpa D. Sherpa, Pia Sääf

Shalini Canagasabey, Lee Sutton, Juliet Dunne

CONTRIBUTORS

CAROLYN MCKAY

➤ WROTE ABOUT ➤ KANDY, SRI LANKA

Via her photography, writing, and teaching,

Carolyn has lived in Jakarta, London, and New

York and visited numerous countries in between,

documenting her travels with her camera along the

way. Currently based in Sri Lanka and using her

Indian Ocean base to explore Asia, Carolyn likes

nothing more than perusing flea markets,

good quality coffee, and people watching.

ADRIAN GIBSON

➤ CURATED OUR ➤ CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

For more than two decades, Adrian has worked

as a professional fashion buyer for some of the

world’s leading stores, in London and Dubai,

including Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey

Nichols. An avid shopper, he enjoys nothing

more than visiting stores, meeting designers and

supporting new talent wherever and whenever

he’s travelling the globe, as well as keeping a

keen eye on the latest trends.

The Cultured Traveller

is published by Coco Latté, London

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries:

ads@theculturedtraveller.com

Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com

Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com


➤ ISSUE 48

Issue 48 ©️ 2024-2025 Coco Latté. All rights reserved

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The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of

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shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions,

but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles,

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Read issue 48 of The Cultured Traveller here

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COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQ.

LONDON W2 1AY, UK

COVER: A Japanese woman gazes at the Yasaka Pagoda in

Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto. The five-storey pagoda is the last remaining

structure of a 6th-century temple complex known as Hōkan-ji.


THE ICONIC 5* HOTEL

IN THE HEART OF CORTINA D’AMPEZZO

THE QUEEN OF THE DOLOMITES

From left to right: Kandy, Sri Lanka;

Kyoto, Japan; Statue of Tenzing Norgay

at Sagarmatha National Park Visitor

Centre, Nepal; Heidi Horten

EDITOR’S LETTER

WITH SO MUCH TURMOIL

ongoing in the world, not to

mention the impending change

of government in the States,

it's perhaps a little difficult

for some of us to think about

travelling overseas at the

moment. I get it. Just recently,

as I was flying from Dubai

to Athens, the Israel Gaza

war prompted the closure of

Jordanian air space, extending

the flight, because the pilot was

forced to take a longer route.

However, once at my destination

and seated in the ancient Odeon

of Herodes Atticus waiting for

a concert to begin, getting there

was already a distant memory

and Athens' unique energy

had taken over. That's the thing about travel - we

may moan about getting somewhere, or encounter

delays caused by one thing or another, but once

there, it's all about the destination and experiencing

something new, or something different. Earlier this

year, this was brought home to me when I was lucky

enough to trek to Everest Base Camp. A journey

I had never before dreamt of taking, or thought

I could possibly complete, ended-up becoming an

experience of a lifetime, at the same time imbuing

me with a newfound sense of reverence for Mother

Nature (page 84).

ALSO IN THIS FORTY-EIGHTH ISSUE OF

The Cultured Traveller, Alex Benasuli explores the

ancient former capital of the land of the rising sun

and enjoys every second of his time in Kyoto (page 48).

Meanwhile, Carolyn McKay visits another former

capital, in Sri Lanka, where she is moved by the

history, architecture, and traditions of Kandy (page 98).

In Vienna, we meet the

driving force behind the city's

newest cultural landmark,

and learn about the life

of Austria's wealthiest

woman and her incredible

art collection (page 76). And

because the festive season

is upon us, Adrian Gibson

curates an array of inspired

Christmas gifts, suggesting

something for everyone -

fashionistas, foodies, and art

aficionados alike (page 130).

WHILST THINGS MAY NOT

always go precisely to plan,

flights are occasionally

delayed, and airports are

busier than we'd like, nothing

beats the memories one can make when exploring a

new destination. This Christmas, if you take time to

plan a new year trip to somewhere a little out of

your comfort zone, I feel quite sure that it will turn

out to be your experience of a lifetime.

Season's greetings from my home to yours,

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief

@TCTEditor

nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com


AWAKEN

YOUR

SENSES

Retreat to places of extraordinary beauty where connecting with community and

nature offers a welcome solace for the soul. Experience the transformative power of

travel as it awakens and inspires.

The World Beckons.

China • Indonesia • Japan • Malaysia • Maldives • Mexico • Morocco • Qatar • Saudi Arabia •

South Korea • Thailand • United Arab Emirates • Vietnam

banyantree.com

news

THE WORLD SEEMINGLY COMES ALIVE OVER

THE FESTIVE SEASON, WITH EVERYTHING

FROM CHRISTMAS MARKETS TO MUSIC

FESTIVALS AND COLOURFUL CARNIVALS HAPPENING

ACROSS THE PLANET. IN NEWSFLASH, THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER ROUNDS-UP AN ARRAY OF EVENTS THAT ARE

WORTH CHECKING-OUT DURING THE COMING MONTHS

FÊTE DES

LUMIÈRES

GLOW WILD AT WAKEHURST

NESTLED IN THE

positioning every piece of bespoke art,

heart of the beautiful with the artists themselves helping to setup

their one-of-a-kind creations. This year’s

Sussex countryside

and often referred to theme is The Enchanting World of Trees,

by some as a “living botanical laboratory”, and the trail features pieces by an array

Wakehurst wild botanic gardens is home of international artists, more than 1,000

to Kew Gardens’ Millennium Seed Bank

hand-crafted lanterns, and two large animal

and a diverse landscape that is used daily figures at the heart of the trail. And for

by scientists. Every festive season, deftly

the first time in the trail’s 11 year history,

combining art, beauty, and horticulture

you can experience the magic of Glow Wild

with Christmas spirit, the Wakehurst

on Christmas Eve.

team painstakingly builds a Glow Wild

Until 1 January 2025

light trail through the gardens, carefully

www.kew.org/glowwild

IMAGE: JEFF EDEN

RELIGIOUSLY ATTRACTING

tens of thousands of

people, once a year, the

French city of Lyon is

transformed into a sparkling metropolitan

wonderland, courtesy of a dazzling citywide

display of street and architectural illuminations.

Essentially extending the traditional 8th December

festival, when Lyon residents celebrate the Virgin

Mary, Fête des Lumières was born from an age-old

tradition dating back to 1643. Today, this

extravagant urban affair comprises a multitude of

professionally run light performances spread over

a four-night programme. Each evening is headed by

a different theme, complete with video, music and

sound effects to compliment the dynamic imagery

seen throughout the city, including in its rivers and

parks. And whilst professional lighting designers,

hailing from all corners of the planet, share their

imaginative installations, local folk also get

involved by burning candles on their windowsills

and balconies, further enhancing the overall

spectacle. 5-8 December 2024

www.fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr


NEWSFLASH

HORNBILL

FESTIVAL

NORTH EAST INDIA IS

unique in that it is home

to a number of differing

tribes, each having its

own cultural celebration or agricultural

festival. Largely covered by forests and

mountains that render it pretty isolated from

the rest of the world, more than half of the

region’s population is heavily dependent upon

agriculture. Hornbill (named after the bird) is

something of the ultimate Indian festival, for it

sees the coming together of all seventeen of

the neighbouring Naga tribes, in the Indian

state of Nagaland, to celebrate their unique

cultural heritage, supported by local

organisations and councils. The tribes spend

ten days in Naga Heritage Village in Kisama,

near Kohima, and partake in a variety of

activities. There's everything from craft

events, sculpture displays, food markets and

stalls selling herbal products to traditional

music, sporting events, fashion shows, tribal

ceremonies and arousing performances.

Locals even crown Miss Nagaland in a beauty

pageant. 1-10 December 2024

www.hornbillfestival.com

KRAMPUSNACHT

DESCRIBED IN AUSTRIAN

folklore as a horned,

anthropomorphic half-goat

half-demon which haunts

the central European mountainous region that

supposedly birthed the creature, //Krampus//

comes alive during an annual festival which

spreads some good old-fashioned pre-Christmas

terror! Nowhere does this devil rampage more

shockingly than in the town of Klagenfurt on the

eastern shore of Lake Wörthersee in south

Austria. Here, the biggest and most rowdy

Krampusnacht unfolds every year, brimming with

ghastly demons quite literally everywhere. The

highlight of Krampusnacht is essentially an

alcohol fuelled Krampuslauf race, which winds

through the pedestrian-friendly city centre of

Klagenfurt, with a thousand alpine-jogging

contestants dressed as scary, horned devils. So

terrifyingly demonic are Krampus costumes that

a constant debate rages throughout Austria,

involving a number of eminent psychologists and

reputable schools, which want the creature

completely banned from society, because it's so

scary to children.

5 December 2024


13

MEVLÂNA FESTIVAL

HELD IN THE ANATOLIAN CITY OF

Konya and also known as Şeb-i

Arûs, Mevlâna attracts visitors

from all corners of the world, and

few people haven’t heard of Turkey’s mesmerising

whirling dervishes, or mevlevi. Accompanied by

orchestral music and dressed in their voluminous white

robes, their ecstatic, trance-like spinning and chanting

makes for a truly spellbinding spectacle.

10-17 December 2024

https://goturkiye.com

NEWSFLASH

WINTER

SOLSTICE

THE NORTHERN

Hemisphere's shortest

day and the Southern

Hemisphere's longest

day is the moment that the sun is directly

above the Tropic of Capricorn in the

Southern Hemisphere. This is the

southernmost latitude it reaches during the

year. After the winter solstice, the sun begins

moving north again. Coinciding with the

winter solstice, Yule is an ancient Pagan

festival that brings crowds to the prehistoric

monument of Stonehenge, the stones of

which have silently marked the winter

solstice for thousands of years. The site is

also aligned in the direction of the sunrises

on the annual solstices. With some dressed

in Druid robes or bedecked with Pagan

garlands, thousands gather early in the

morning (some religious, some not) to a

backdrop of drumbeats, chanting, and songs,

to quietly watch the sunrise on the winter

solstice and begin the festival of Yule. To

date, English Heritage has been committed

to providing free access to Stonehenge for

solstice celebrations. 21 December 2024

www.english-heritage.org.uk

KWANZAA

AN ANNUAL, WEEK-LONG

African-American

celebration of life,

predominantly held in the

United States, Dr. Maulana Karenga first

introduced Kwanzaa in 1966 in response to the

commercialism of Christmas, as a ritual to

welcome the first harvests. Though often

considered an alternative to Christmas, many

people actually celebrate both, not least because

Kwanzaa is a cultural holiday with a spiritual

quality, rather than a religious holiday. Honouring

African heritage in African-American culture,

Kwanzaa is observed from 26th December

through 1st January, culminating in a feast and

gift-giving. Each day is dedicated to one of

Kwanzaa's seven core principles, with seven

candles used to represent concepts of the

holiday: umoja (unity); kujichagulia (selfdetermination);

ujima (collective work and

responsibility); ujamaa (co-operative economics);

nia (purpose); kuumba (creativity) and imani (faith).

26 December 2024 - 1 January 2025

www.officialkwanzaawebsite.org


NEWSFLASH

JUNKANOO

WHEN NASSAU'S

main artery of Bay

Street is a heaving

sea of sight and

sound, Junkanoo is in town! Delighting

and entertaining all who experience this

annual happening, and the high point of

the festive season for all Bahamians,

Junkanoo traces its roots back to the

late 18th century music and dance

spectacles of West Africa, and is one of

the oldest surviving street festivals in

the Caribbean. Legend has it, that slaves

of old, decorated themselves using

whatever scrap materials were available,

the easiest to lay their hands on being

paper and feathers, while flour paste

was used to paint their faces. Nowadays,

Junkanoo is a vibrant celebration of life

and freedom and the major cultural

festival of the Bahamas. But you'll need

stamina to be part of Junkanoo, because

it is celebrated twice during the festive

season, in the early hours of Boxing Day,

followed by the main event, one week

later, on New Year’s Day.

26 December 2024 + 1 January 2025

www.bahamas.com/junkanoo

PROTOTYPE

A CO-PRODUCTION

of Beth Morrison

Projects and HERE -

two leaders in the

creation and presentation of contemporary,

multi-disciplinary opera-theatre and

music-theatre - it took just five years for

PROTOTYPE to prompt The New Yorker

magazine to announce that the festival was

“essential to the evolution of American

Opera". Indeed, five years later, and

PROTOTYPE is today, almost certainly, the

most important presenter of innovative new

operas, experimental theatre and musical

works in New York, mounting both complete

performances as well as works-in-progress

through partnerships with local performing

arts venues. Since launching, PROTOTYPE

has produced and presented well over a

hundred performances, shared the works of

numerous local, national and international

artists, exposed visionary work to tens of

thousands of people, and filled dozens of

stages across New York City’s multiple

boroughs. This year’s 10-day programme

features rising stars and established

performers, and includes the world premiere

of Eat the Document by John Glover and

Kelley Rourke. 9-19 January 2025

https://prototypefestival.org

RHYTHM & VINES

Ice Spice

THE FIRST COUNTRY

in the world to enjoy the first

sunrise of 2025 will be New

Zealand, and what better place

to wave goodbye to 2024 and welcome a fresh new

year than Rhythm & Vines. Held for more than 20

years at Waiohika Estate family vineyard, close to

the city of Gisborne, New Zealand’s vast, annual, and

multi award-winning music festival is spread across

three days and multiple stages. Past headliners

have included Calvin Harris and Mark Ronson and

this year’s line-up is no less impressive, headlined by

American rapper Ice Spice (pictured) who is the

newest artist to come out of the Bronx - the

birthplace of Hip-Hop. Also headlining will be UK

Garage and bassline star, Sammy Virji, and

Australian electronic dance music producer,

Christian Benson, known professionally as Luude.

29-31 December 2024

www.rhythmandvines.co.nz


17

SKATE AT SOMERSET HOUSE

A STYLISH LONDON TRADITION FOR MORE THAN

two decades, don your finest winter fashions to trip the

ice fantastic at this fabulous outdoor rink, where you

will look the very picture of glamour whether an

amateur or seasoned skater. Après skate, refuel with gourmet fare at The

Chalet by Jimmy Garcia, or sip rosé rink-side at the Skate Lounge.

Until 12 January 2025 www.somersethouse.org.uk

NEWSFLASH

19

THE TAPATI

RAPA NUI

Cartagena de Indias, Colombia

LYING 3,500

kilometres off the

coast of Chile and

renowned worldwide

for its archaeological sites – including 887

monumental carved human moai figures

with oversized heads – somewhat remote

and volcanic Easter Island, is a Chilean

territory in Polynesia. For two weeks every

February, the festival of Tapati Rapa Nui is

held to commemorate the arrival of the

island's first Polynesian settlers and their

supreme chief, Hotu Matu’a, who together

populated the then uninhabited island.

Celebrated during the austral summer,

which coincides with the high season of

the southern hemisphere, Tapati promotes

Rapa Nui ancestral customs through song,

dance, arts, traditional dress and ancient

traditions. An exotic and uniquely

Polynesian festival like no other, visitors

are encouraged to slide down steep slopes

on banana trunks and participate in dance

competitions, and the culmination of the

festival is when two families boogie it out

on the dance floor to crown the Queen

of Tapati.

1-14 February 2025

www.easterislandspirit.com/tapati-festival

www. https://

HAY FESTIVAL CARTAGENA DE INDIAS

THE HAY FESTIVAL

originated in Hay-On-

Wye in Wales in 1988 and

has since grown into one

of the most powerful and acclaimed literary

festivals in the world. In addition to hosting

high profile and emerging writers, guests

and speakers that include politicians,

economists, musicians, scientists,

comedians, philosophy lecturers and film

industry professionals, and a host of other

intellectual talent from all over the world. In

2007, the Hay launched in Cartagena as a

means to include Nobel Prize winner Gabriel

García Márquezas as star speaker - who it is

believed had until then refused invitations to

attend the festival in the UK. This coincided

with the 40th anniversary of the release of

his book, One Hundred Years of Solitude.

Nowadays the festival is the most important

literary event in Latin America, hosting lively

debates and many conservation and

education based projects that form part of

the calendar, attracting students, journalists,

members of the public, and writers to the

culturing inspiring city of Cartagena.

30 January - 2 February 2025

www.hayfestival.com/cartagena


NEWSFLASH

QUÉBEC WINTER

CARNIVAL

SAPPORO SNOW

FESTIVAL

THE FIRST SAPPORO

Snow Festival was held

in 1950 and consisted of

just six snow statues

built by local high school students. Today the

festival is one of Japan's most popular winter

events, and has snowballed into a sprawling

white wonderland, attracting people from

around the world to the capital of the

mountainous northern Japanese island of

Hokkaido, a popular ski spot probably best

known for its beer. Known as Yuki Matsuri

locally, the snow festival centers on Odori

Park in downtown Sapporo, where giant

sculptures of snow and ice stand along a trail

of more than a kilometre which is illuminated

at night. There are two other sites: Tsudome,

a community dome with large snow slides

and a tobogganing zone, where the festival

starts a few days earlier. And Susukino Ice

World, where visitors can touch and ride

some of the sculptures.

4-11 February 2025

www.snowfes.com/en

WHILE MOST OF US

spend the winter months

doing our best to avoid

ice and snow, the

inhabitants of the picturesque Frenchspeaking

province of Québec City do the very

opposite, and positively revel in the frigid

surroundings, celebrating the joie de vivre of

carnival season in freezing, sub-zero fashion.

Québec City held its first large carnival in

1894, but the annual event was interrupted by

two wars and an economic crisis before the

first official edition of the Québec Winter

Carnival took place in 1955. The largest winter

shindig in the world has been an annual event

ever since, and comprises parades, an

outdoor amusement park, giant ice slides, and

snow sculpture competitions, not to mention a

fair amount of eating, drinking, and general

merry making, plus traditional dogsled and

canoe races. Not to be missed is the Ice

Palace, constructed with compacted snow

bricks and lit up at night with thousands of

coloured lights.

7-16 February 2025

https://carnaval.qc.ca/en

Kendrick Lamar

SUPER BOWL LIX

THE MOST IMPORTANT

day of the professional

American football

season, when millions of

fans who can’t make it to the stadium are

glued to the couch for the duration of what is

often the most watched American television

program of the year, Super Bowl LIX will be the

59th Super Bowl and the 55th modern-era

National Football League championship game.

It will be played at the Caesars Superdome in

New Orleans, Louisiana, and will be the 11th

time the city has hosted the famous game,

which will decide the league champions for the

2024 NFL season. The Super Bowl’s halftime

show has always attracted major talent. Janet

Jackson had her infamous wardrobe

malfunction in 2004. Previous headliners have

included Michael Jackson, Prince, Madonna,

Lady Gaga and Beyoncé. This year, California

rapper Kendrick Lamar (pictured) will headline

what is one of the most important shows of

the year. 9 February 2025

www.nfl.com/super-bowl


21

VENICE

CARNIVAL

THE WORLD’S

oldest and

grandest carnival

of all, has led

revellers through the ancient

backstreets and canals of the

beautiful and vibrant Italian city of

Venice for generations, revealing

hidden parties, exclusive costume

balls, and countless secret

rendezvous, with many party goers

dressed in magnificent 18th century

costumes and beautifully ornate

masks. 22 February - 4 March 2025

https://carnevale.venezia.it/en

NEWSFLASH

TAIWAN LANTERN FESTIVAL

MARKING THE

arrival of spring after

new year, held during the

“Yuan Xiao” period and

dating back decades, the annual lantern

festival is one of the most important and

romantic dates on the Taiwanese calendar.

Whilst many activities happen all over

Taiwan during the Lantern Festival, including

thousands of sky lanterns rising over Pingxi

District in New Taipei, the main event

consists of four exhibition areas, one central

installation, and six other major installations

as part of a massive lantern collection

covering over 100 hectares. Located at

National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, the

festival's central exhibition area features the

main lantern, three other major lanterns, and a

number of themed displays, with innovative

content combined with traditional lantern art

and cross-discipline lighting technology, and

works by both local and international artists.

While lanterns take to the skies, locals

traditionally eat rice dumplings with sweet and

savoury fillings, known as tangyuan.

12 February 2025

BERLINALE

THE BERLIN INTERNATIONAL

Film Festival is one of the

world’s leading cinematic

events, held annually in

February, drawing thousands of visitors every year,

transforming the city into a cultural epicentre.

Founded in West Berlin in 1951, the festival has

become a global hub for film enthusiasts,

showcasing a diverse array of films from across the

globe. With screenings that span genres, styles, and

cultural backgrounds, the Berlinale celebrates both

established filmmakers and emerging voices,

offering them a prestigious platform. The festival’s

coveted Golden Bear award symbolises the highest

recognition, while the Silver Bears acknowledge

individual achievements in acting, directing, and

screenplay. A distinctive feature of the Berlinale is

its commitment to social issues; many selected

films engage with current socio-political themes,

creating dialogue around pressing global concerns.

With its eclectic programme and influential industry

market, the Berlinale remains a current and vital

force in international cinema. 13-23 February 2025

www.berlinale.de

SAUTI ZA BUSARA

LITERALLY MEANING

‘sounds of wisdom’ in

Swahili but so much more

than a music festival, Sauti

za Busara showcases some of the best emerging

musical talent from across the African continent,

and takes place in the old Stone Town part of

Zanzibar City every February. Organised by a

non-profit NGO, not only does Sauti za Busara

send traditional African sounds around Stone

Town’s historic Old Fort for three days and nights,

providing an opportunity for local and

international artists to perform side-by-side, but

the festival also fuels the growth and

professionalisation of the region’s creative

sector, and promotes Zanzibar as a destination

for cultural tourism. Namechecked by the BBC as

"one of Africa's best and most respected music

events", film screenings and comedy shows fill

the gaps between the many musical

performances, and daily networking sessions

offer opportunities for artists, managers,

promoters, media and other professionals to

meet, connect and exchange.

14-16 February 2025

https://busaramusic.org


NEWSFLASH

SAIDAIJI EYO

HELD ANNUALLY IN

the capital city of

Okayama Prefecture in

the Chūgoku region of

Japan, Okayama’s Saidai-ji Eyo gets more

international attention than most, for it is

essentially thousands of nearly naked men

scrambling to find lucky objects. Commonly

known as 'Hadaka Matsuri’ ('Naked Festival’),

in a ritual that started more than 500 years

ago, the loincloth-clad men enter the temple

in the evening to purify their bodies. Having

stood in the cold until 10pm, the lights are

turned off and a priest throws a pair of

wooden shingi (sticks) into the crowd. For the

next few hours, the men jostle to be the first

to carry one of the sticks out of the temple,

be blessed with luck for a year and win a cash

prize. While the shingi are the main object of

desire, dozens of other lucky objects are also

tossed into the crowd for good measure. The

result is a mass, drawn-out scramble of male

flesh which has been known to turn nasty!

carnival-like feel.

9 15 February 2025

ADELAIDE FRINGE

HELD IN THE SOUTH

Australian beachside

capital of Adelaide

between mid-February

and mid-March every year and founded more

than 60 years ago, the Adelaide Fringe is the

largest arts festival in the southern

hemisphere and features more than 7,000

artists from Australia and around the world.

Even during the midst of the pandemic in 2021,

more than 600,000 tickets were purchased.

Being an open access festival, anyone brave

enough to step on stage is literally welcome to

perform. This means that originality and

diversity are at the heart of the Adelaide

Fringe, with audiences ranging from children to

grandparents and performers coming from all

walks of life. Indeed, the eclectic and vibrant

range of events that fill the festival’s 31 days

and nights include cabaret, theatre, comedy,

circus, music, visual arts and workshops,

offering something for everyone, complete

with markets and a spectacular nightly

animated 'Parade of Light’.

21 February - 23 March 2025

https://adelaidefringe.com.au


25

26

ATI-ATIHAN

WHILE FILIPINOS ARE KNOWN

worldwide for their gracious

hospitality and friendly nature,

Ati-Atihan is probably the most

spectacular of the Philippines’ annual celebrations,

and allows visitors a glimpse of their wild, colourful and

playful side. Essentially a non-stop, show-stopping

visual treat of exhibitionism, costume, music and

dance, Ati-Atihan is also believed to be the oldest

festival in the country.

21 January 2025

MUSCAT OMAN

rest your

➤ MUSCAT ➤ SINGAPORE ➤ CERNAY-LA-VILLE ➤ SAPPORO ➤ SYDNEY ➤ VIENNA

➤ SABI SANDS ➤ COURCHEVEL ➤ DAR ES SALAM ➤ THE MEDITERRANEAN

➤ ZALLAQ ➤ AHANGAMA

THE ST. REGIS AL

MOUJ MUSCAT RESORT

LOCATED ON THE GULF OF OMAN’S BLUE WATERS AND

home to some two million people, the ancient port city of

Muscat offers visitors a relaxed glimpse into the Sultanate’s immense

history and rich culture, together with a calm blend of old-world Arabian

charm and unpretentious modernity.

Renowned for its mosaic-covered mosques, enchanting architecture,

warm and welcoming residents, and a plethora of historic sites, Muscat is

dedicated to preservation, so even modern buildings are dotted with domes

and punctuated by Arabesque windows and other traditional features,

which makes the cityscape somewhat unassuming and unique for the Gulf.

The resulting destination is seemingly trapped in time yet punctuated by

modern museums, vibrant markets, and an array of luxury hotels.

Tucked behind Muscat’s international airport, Oman’s first St.

Regis hotel is within walking distance of the beachfront enclave of Al

Mouj, which means "The Wave”. A fresh, new development of low-rise

residential blocks, enclosing a cluster of street cafés and restaurants

leading towards a small marina, this delightful new part of the city

fills the lovely sandy beach that connects it with The St. Regis Al Mouj

Muscat Resort, which has been designed to evoke the elegance of a

serene cruise liner, courtesy of its curvaceous superyacht-style design.

As a hotel, The St. Regis Al Mouj Muscat Resort deftly blends Omani

heritage and striking contemporary architecture with the glamour of

the St. Regis brand, bringing a welcome Riviera-esqe feel to the city’s

waterfront.

All of the hotel’s 250 extremely spacious and lavishly appointed

guest rooms and suites boast private balconies, with one-to-threebedroom

duplexes suites also featuring private plunge pools. At 60

square-metres, standard entry-level rooms offer guests junior-suite like

comforts, including sofas and over-sized bathrooms, not to mention a

soothing colour palette of oceanic tones, imbued with rich tan and local

natural stone, nodding to Oman’s breathtaking natural landscapes.

https://stregis.com

head

FROM A ONE-OF-A-KIND CIRCULAR

BOUTIQUE HOTEL IN SRI LANKA,

SURROUNDED BY FIELDS OF TEA AND

CINNAMON, TO A NEW LUXURY SUPER

YACHT WITH SIX RESTAURANTS AND

MORE THAN 200 SUITES, CRUISING THE

MEDITERRANEAN, AND THE REBORN

SAFARI LODGE THAT LAUNCHED THE

SINGITA BRAND THREE DECADES AGO,

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER EXPLORES

A DOZEN UNIQUE PLACES TO REST YOUR

HEAD ACROSS THE PLANET

SINGAPORE

COMO METROPOLITAN

SINGAPORE

A SOMEWHAT FUTURISTIC CITY WITH A UNIQUE AND DIVERSE

culture, consistently ranked one of the world’s wealthiest, and

renowned for its opulence and hospitality, in many ways Singapore is also

a city of excess. A huge Asian financial center with a high standard of living,

the island state boasts dozens of Michelin-starred eateries, ranging from

street food outlets to high-end restaurants, and yet Singapore’s dining

scene continues to grow.

Love it or hate it, Singaporean architectural landmark, Marina Bay Sands

hotel contains more than 2,500 rooms within its three towers. The entire Las

Vegas-like complex was built on reclaimed land. Now a fourth tower is in the

process of being built, which will add a further 1,000 rooms to Marina Bay

Sands’ inventory.

Even Gardens By The Bay, which has attracted more than 50 millions

visitors since opening in 2012, boasts the world’s largest glass greenhouse,

covering 1.28 hectares under its striking Calatrava-like roof.

Thankfully for travellers who crave peace, quiet, and a semblance

of tranquility when they’re not pounding the city’s streets, new COMO

Metropolitan Singapore hotel exudes a welcome air of refined style.

Something of an urban oasis, nestled on a side street yet located in the

heart of the main shopping thoroughfare of Orchard Road, the 156-room

COMO opened its sophisticated doors little more than a year ago and is the

brand's first property in its native Singapore.

Quietly luxurious, complete with a sprawling Como Shambhala spa, a

cutting-edge gym, yoga and pilates studios, a glass-walled roof-top infinity

pool, guests enjoy spectacular skyline views from stylish rooms and suites

spread over 11 floors. The hotel is part of the COMO Orchard complex,

which includes the first Asian outpost of superstar French pâtissier, Cédric

Grolet, and a multi-label fashion store curated by Club 21, featuring Thom

Browne, Jacquemus, and Simone Rocha.

The hotel’s Sky Bar boasts all the panoramic cityscape views one could

possibly wish for, and the property is home to Korean steakhouse, COTE,

which blends Korean barbecue cuisine with carnivore-pleasing American

classics.

For a metropolitan sanctuary amidst Singapore’s polished hustle and

bustle, choose the COMO to switch-off in style at the end of a busy day.

www.comohotels.com

30

CERNAY-LA-VILLE FRANCE

L'ABBAYE DES

VAUX-DE-CERNAY

LOCATED 45 MINUTES SOUTHWEST OF PARIS IN AN AREA

protected from industrial development, in the Île-de-France

region of northern France, verdant Upper Chevreuse Valley Regional

Natural Park contains a wide variety of unique historical sites all of

which have been slowly shaped by time. A predominantly rural natural

open-air heritage museum, the park is both inhabited and open to

everyone, and brings together a remarkable set of natural, cultural, and

ancient attractions. All human activity which evolves in the region deeply

respects the environment, which is criss-crossed by an array of biking

trails that take in the best of the wonderful scenery.

Set within the heart of the park, Cernay-la-Ville is a suburban village

which was formerly renowned for being home to landscape painters, who

were attracted by the beauty of the place. A few kilometres from the town

centre lies a former Cistercian abbey that dates back to the 12th century,

surrounded by 185 acres of unspoilt countryside.

Dior designer Cordélia de Castellane, the estate's tranquil lake invites

guests to pedalo, fish, or chill-out in boats on the water. Three on-site

restaurants marry seasonal produce with traditional French cuisine.

Art studios, a cinema room, and a kids’ club keep younger guests busy.

And a sumptuous spa, curated in collaboration with premium skincare

brand Tata Harper, boasts seven treatment rooms, a wellness area, and a

heated outdoor swimming pool. www.abbayedesvauxdecernay.com

Lovingly restored and reimagined as a chic new country hotel by The

Paris Society hospitality group, l'Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay opened just

over a year ago after a meticulous EUR 60 million four-year restoration

and redesign, and now combines the spirit of a contemporary members

club with British country manor charm and refined Parisian elegance.

Home to 145 well-dressed bedrooms and suites fashioned by French


31

SAPPORO JAPAN

HOTEL SOSEI SAPPORO

A PORT CITY ON THE SOUTHWEST PART OF THE ISLAND OF

Hokkaidō, located to the north of Tokyo, Sapporo is bordered

by the Sea of Japan to the west, the Sea of Okhotsk to the north, and

the Pacific Ocean to the east and south. Gaining worldwide fame in 1972

when the city hosted the Winter Olympic Games, Japan’s fifth largest

conurbation combines metropolitan life and the attractions of much

larger cities with access to a world of wonderful nature, with the entire

region transforming into a winter wonderland from December each year.

As well as local arts, crafts and traditional culture, great food, vibrant

nightlife, and an annual snow festival held in February, Sapporo is also a

popular gateway to the region for many travellers starting their Hokkaidō

adventures.

Within walking distance of the urban oasis of Odori Park, and one of

Japan's largest entertainment districts, Susukino, Hotel Sosei Sapporo is

located on the historic site of Japan's very first beer brewery, which was

founded during the Meiji period. Later becoming the Sapporo Brewery,

having been passed down from the days of the 1876 Kaitakushi business,

the brewery led to the industrial development of the city. This frontier

spirit and unique history is reflected in the hotel’s design, providing

guests with a unique blend of Japanese and Western elements, while

also revealing stories of the past, complete with a carefully considered

nod to the future.

118 luxe rooms and suites blend of global hospitality with personal

charm and make the perfect base from which to explore all that

the vibrant city has to offer, including world-class shopping,

beautiful Nagayama Memorial Park, landmark Sapporo TV Tower,

and Japan's only museum dedicated to beer, which explores the long

history of Sapporo. www.hotelsoseisapporo.com

32

EPITOMISING GENUINE

HOSPITALITY SINCE 1929

EXPLORE THE DESTINATION AT WWW.PRINCEDEGALLESPARIS.COM

SYDNEY AUSTRALIA

MANLY PACIFIC

A BUSTLING, FAST-PACED, AND COSMOPOLITAN METROPOLIS,

which combines Belle Epoque architecture at every turn with

grand leafy avenues, lively cafés, superb dining and happening nightlife,

Argentina’s dynamic capital of Buenos Aires is a wonderful destination for

a city break. From La Boca’s brightly coloured buildings and cobblestoned

streets, to San Telmo’s antique shops and colonial architecture, Buenos

Aires is imbued with Latin passion throughout its unique mix of old and new

and everything in between.

Located in the centre of Buenos Aires, within 15-minutes’ walk of the

Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento and Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes,

Calle Arroyo has become one of the city’s most desirable streets, and was

even baptised by Eduardo Mallea as the “elbow of aristocracy in Buenos

Aires”. Displaying a distinctly classical French style via its many beautiful

mansions and residences, the street boasts a many important and historical

buildings, as well as architectural gems from the porteño past.

imposing contemporary art to create beautiful and inviting spaces from the

striking lobby upwards.

Many of the hotel’s 142 guest rooms and suites boasts balconies

with outdoor showers and sun loungers, and offer residents the unique

opportunity to dine al fresco in complete privacy while enjoying spectacular

views across the city. Rooms are also hung with contemporary art by awardwinning

Argentine artist Cristián Mohaded, whose work is on display in the

Philadelphia Museum of Art and the Musée Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

On street level, Cantina Restaurant draws inspiration from authentic

Argentine aromas and flavours, while capturing the essence of the land with

fresh, local ingredients. And next door, Le Club Bacan is a spirited cocktail

bar, helmed by cocktail master Martín Suaya, that has already become a

popular gathering spot for locals and travellers alike.

https://manlypacific.com.au

In the heart of the fashionable Recoleta neighbourhood, on stylish Calle

Arroyo, Hotel Casa Lucia opened its doors earlier this year. A veritable

love letter to Argentina, set within the historic Edificio Mihanovich

building (which was at one time the tallest building in Latin America),

Casa Lucia captures the charm of historic Buenos Aires while

celebrating the contemporary flair of the nation’s artistic creativity.

Bringing together the latest creative talent from a variety of local design

houses, including South American Fernanda Schuch Studios, the hotel’s

historic roots deftly work in tandem with modern, designer furnishings and


THE HOXTON VIENNA

THE GRAND CAPITAL OF AUSTRIA HAS ALWAYS BEEN A

bastion of tradition, history and elegance. Some would say

that it is also shy and retiring. Granted, Vienna is not the most exciting

of European capitals and it is happily not a “party city”. But almost

everywhere you walk, the city impresses with its imposing buildings, lavish

palaces, lush parks, all-round grandeur, and stately architecture. And in

recent years, a cluster of hip new hotels has been adding fun and frolicking

to the city’s burgeoning hospitality scene. The most recent of these is

The Hoxton Vienna, which opened last year in the Austrian capital’s third

district – a neighbourhood close to Stadtpark, which is renowned for being

home to some of the city’s best art and design schools, and museums.

VIENNA AUSTRIA

IMAGES: JULIUS HIRTZBERGER

Formerly home to the Austrian Chamber of Commerce, The Hoxton Vienna

fills the entirety of an architecturally important 1950s Carl Appel-designed

landmark building, which served as a key starting point for the hotel’s

interior design scheme, and has been carefully preserved and positively

celebrated throughout the 196 bedrooms which reference early 20thcentury

Austrian design. From geometric patterned curtains to ruched

headboards, even the smallest rooms feel calm and welcoming, with

local photography adorning the walls, bold painted ceilings, and warm

timber accents.

An expansive, light-filled double-height lobby is framed by original

travertine-clad walls and terrazzo flooring, and is furnished with inviting

sofas, comfy armchairs, and mid-century lighting. Fashionable and

bustling, the lobby serves as a crossroads for in-house guests and visitors

passing through en route to one of the hotel’s many food and beverage

offerings, which include a cutesy bistro on street level, Bouvier, with an

open kitchen and a terrace for al fresco dining in the summer. A low-key

coffee and sandwich shop, also on the lobby level, serves fresh pastries

and lunch rolls by day, and wine and cocktails in the evenings.

Down a level, and you will find speakeasy-inspired subterranean bar and

jazz club, Salon Paradise, that deftly captures the essence of the creative,

free-spirited and experimental Beat Generation. And crowning the building,

Cayo Coco brings loud tropical energy to Vienna with its punchy pisco

sours, over-sized rum cocktails, and Caribbean barbecued bar snacks,

complete with a heated swimming pool for late-night dips, plenty of space

for open-air socialising dining, and captivating views offering almost

360-degree views across the city’s rooftops towards the Austrian Alps.

A trendy yet relaxed palace of fun, humming in the heart of the Austrian

capital, The Hoxton Vienna can very much be a one-stop-shop for those

who wish to sleep, eat, drink, and party in one lively central Viennese

location. https://thehoxton.com

35

SABI SANDS SOUTH AFRICA

SINGITA EBONY

NESTLED WITHIN NORTH-EASTERN SOUTH AFRICA’S ICONIC

Greater Kruger National Park, Sabi Sands Game Reserve offers

an exquisite blend of pristine wilderness and unrivalled wildlife experiences.

Covering 65,000 hectares of untamed bushveld, this private reserve is famed

for its unfenced 50-kilometre boundary with Kruger, creating a harmonious

coexistence that allows animals to roam freely between the two areas.

The landscape is a tapestry of rivers, grasslands, and acacia-dotted

savannas, providing an ideal habitat for Africa’s Big Five: lion, leopard, elephant,

buffalo, and rhinoceros. Sabi Sands is particularly renowned for its prolific

sightings of the elusive leopard, with many people enjoying remarkably close

encounters. Beyond the Big Five, one can also spot cheetahs, hyenas, wild dogs

and an incredible variety of birdlife, including vultures, eagles and storks, making

it a true Eden for wildlife enthusiasts.

Very much the matriarch of the collection, having opened in 1993 and been the

very first lodge, Singita Ebony has been transformed courtesy of a chic redesign,

which has breathed new life into the traditional safari experience, to meet the

changing needs of today’s modern traveller.

Skilfully bridging the old and new, the Cécile & Boyd refresh has opened

a new chapter for the lodge where the Singita story began, giving Ebony a

newfound sense of space and freedom, with several new lounge and deck areas

encouraging relaxed, uninterrupted views, antiques and heirlooms filling every

space, modern artworks crafted by local artisans adorning the walls, and a

saturated palette of hues and textures taking its cues from Mother Nature.

https://singita.com

IMAGE: ROSS COUPER

36

COURCHEVEL FRANCE

LORD OF SNOW

NESTLED IN THE FRENCH ALPS, COURCHEVEL IS THE CROWN

jewel of Les Trois Vallées, the largest interconnected ski area

in the world. Its four villages, each perched at varying altitudes, offer

skiers direct access to more than 600 kilometres of impeccably groomed

pistes. From the gentle greens, ideal for beginners, to the more technical

black runs for the adventurous, Courchevel caters to all abilities with

effortless elegance. The Saulire and Creux pistes are particularly

beloved for their breathtaking views and thrilling descents. And for those

seeking off-piste challenges, the Vallée des Avals offers pristine powdercovered

terrain.

Beyond skiing, Courchevel boasts a range of Michelin-starred

restaurants, offering refined Alpine cuisine and international fare, and

visitors can also enjoy art galleries, classical music performances, and

cultural festivals throughout the season.

modernity, every inch of the 1,200 square-metre six-floor chalet has

been meticulously designed. And using a wealth of natural materials –

After four years in the making, ultra-luxe chalet specialists, Haute

including European larch cladding, oak parquet flooring, and real Lauze

Montagne, have just introduced a veritable new superyacht in the snow, (slate) on the roofs – has harmonised the immense seven-bedroom

in the form of show-stopping ski-in ski-out Lord of Snow, located on the state-of-the-art property with its alpine surroundings, thus providing

Bellecote piste in Courchevel 1850.

ski lovers with an unrivalled experience in one of the world's most

Designed by renowned French architect, Sophie Decoopman, who

prestigious ski destinations.

is famed for her ability to sensitively combine tradition with refined

https://hautemontagne.com

38

DAR ES SALAM MOROCCO

THE RITZ-CARLTON

RABAT, DAR ES SALAM

A TRANQUIL OASIS JUST OUTSIDE THE BUSTLING CITY OF

Rabat, Dar es Salam is set amidst verdant forests and rolling

hills, whilst architecturally blending traditional Moroccan elements with

understated modern touches, and embracing the area’s Hispano-Moorish

heritage, thus creating a harmonious environment that reflects the

country’s rich heritage.

The city is best known for championship-calibre Royal Golf Dar es Salam,

which was designed by premier British–American golf course architect,

Robert Trent Jones. Something of a prestigious retreat, the course offers a

natural setting with lush fairways, serene lakes, and groves of eucalyptus

and cork trees.

Beyond golf, the area provides a gateway to Rabat’s many cultural

treasures. Nearby, visitors can explore the ancient Kasbah of the Udayas,

the historic Hassan Tower, and the contemporary art collections at the

Mohammed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, all offering a

glimpse into Morocco’s layered past and vibrant present.

Soaring ceilings showcase meticulous craftsmanship, beautifully

embellished with muqarnas - an iconic Arab-Andalusian architectural

element from the Almoravid era. The hotel’s richly decorated dome,

with geometric and floral patterns, dominates the lobby, while the walls

are adorned with Moroccan gebs frescoes, transforming plaster into

masterpieces and illustrating the mastery of local artisans. The same level

of detail is evident throughout the palace-like hotel, from its 100 guest rooms

and 17 suites, all with private terraces facing the pool and the gardens, to

the sumptuous 180 square-metre Royal Suite, and on to the lavish spa with

saunas, hammams, ten massage rooms and two couple’s suites.

https://ritzcarlton.com

Nestled within 440 hectares of forest and lush gardens just steps away from

the golf course, the new Ritz-Carlton Rabat, Dar Es Salam is the brand’s

first property in Morocco, and offers guests attentive, first-class service,

sumptuous interiors, and a stunning natural setting that combine to create a

majestic sanctuary of luxury and serenity in the heart of Rabat.


THE MEDITERRANEAN EUROPE

ILMA

CRUISING THE MEDITERRANEAN ABOARD A FULLY-STAFFED

luxury yacht offers an unparalleled escape into timeless

beauty and opulence. Imagine gliding through azure waters, calling

at Greece’s sun-drenched islands, where the whitewashed charm

of Santorini and the rich history of Syros await, to a backdrop of

vineyards rolling down verdant hills. Sail on to Italy’s Amalfi Coast,

where Positano’s pastel-hued cliffs and Sorrento’s colourful harbours

invite exploration. In the Balearics, Ibiza’s legendary nightlife contrasts

with the serene coves of Menorca. Meanwhile, the French Riviera, with

its glamorous towns of Saint-Tropez and Cannes, embodies the very

essence of Mediterranean yachting and the jet-set lifestyle associated

with it. Every destination reveals a new chapter of Mediterranean

allure, marked by exquisite cuisine, pristine beaches, hidden coves, and

exclusive coastal retreats.

Ilma is the latest addition to The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection, following the

company’s debut in the ultra-luxury yachting space with Evrima in 2022.

Meaning “Water" in Maltese, Ilma pays homage to the sea, presenting

guests with an exceptional experience, from spacious suites with private

ocean view terraces, and world-class dining curated by Michelin-starred

restaurant chefs, to a sweeping pool deck offering spectacular sea views

at sea, and enchanting itineraries which drop anchor at both well-known

and intimate ports of call.

With one of the highest staff-to-guest ratios in the luxury cruising

sphere, 241-metre Ilma offers voyagers occupying its 224 residentialfeeling

suites an unparalleled level of service, synonymous with The

Ritz-Carlton brand. And in addition to luxurious accommodations, the

newbuild superyacht features five restaurants, six bars, a wine vault, a

sumptuous spa, an expanded marina with a new mezzanine feature, and a

dynamic open-air space for entertainment and sunbathing on the top deck.

https://ritzcarltonyachtcollection.com

41

ZALLAQ BAHRAIN

RAFFLES AL AREEN

PALACE BAHRAIN

A SMALL ISLAND KINGDOM NESTLED IN THE PERSIAN

Gulf, Bahrain is a captivating fusion of ancient heritage and

modern development. Manama, the capital, rises as a gleaming skyline of

architectural marvels, from the striking Bahrain World Trade Center to the

bold twin towers of the Four Seasons Hotel, soaring 200 metres above

Bahrain Bay and reflecting a growing city brimming with energy. Yet, amidst

the urban growth, the city preserves its soul with historical treasures like the

UNESCO-listed Bahrain Fort and bustling Manama Souq, where traditional

crafts and spices reflect centuries of trade. Cultural institutions such as the

Bahrain National Museum provide a gateway into the island’s rich past, while

the grand Al Fateh Mosque is both the Kingdom’s largest place of worship

and one of the largest in the world.

A tranquil resort-like town on Bahrain’s west coast, Zallaq is beloved for its

Al Areen Wildlife Park and Reserve, impressive mosque, fabulous stretch of

pristine beach, the largest water park in Bahrain, and now the country’s first

and only all-villa palace-like hotel.

Cocooned by lush gardens, every villa is incredibly spacious and features

its own temperature-controlled private pool and jacuzzi, one, two, or three

bedrooms, and Raffles' signature butler service. Interiors are pristine white,

with plants cascading all around, Arabic accents and motifs, and pale

timbers, with every detail carefully considered and every amenity provided

for guests, including seven pillow options, custom scents to suit different

moods and times of the day, and both indoor and open-air showers.

www.raffles.com

Set within a serene desert-like oasis, Raffles Al Areen Palace Bahrain

opened in 2024, bringing the brand's impeccable service standards to

Bahrain via 78 secluded, elegantly designed and beautifully landscaped

private villas.


AHANGAMA SRI LANKA

TREBARTHA EAST

THE ROUND HOUSE

NESTLED ON SRI LANKA’S SOUTHERN COAST, AHANGAMA

is something of a quiet gem between the bustling towns of

Galle and Weligama. Embraced by swaying coconut palms and stretches

of golden sand, where stilt fishermen still cast their lines at dawn,

Ahangama’s uncrowded surf breaks draw wave enthusiasts from across

Asia, while its surroundings teem with natural beauty. Just 20 kilometres

away, Galle’s UNESCO-listed fort invites visitors to stroll its cobbled

streets, lined with Dutch colonial architecture, art galleries, pavement

cafés, and boutiques. And nearby Koggala Lake, dotted with small

islands and alive with birdlife, offers tranquil boat trips.

A short drive inland leads to Trebartha East - The Round House,

a one-of-a-kind retreat-like boutique hotel, perched atop a small hill

surrounded by paddy fields and tea and rubber plantations, with dense

rain forest visible beyond.

A landscape quite unlike anything one would expect so close to the

Indian Ocean, as guests arrive at The Round House, they are either

greeted by the morning song of tropical birds, or the loud wailing-like

calls of peacocks echoing across the property. Nothing short of an

intimate hideaway for seasoned travellers, or a place to kick-back and

enjoy the seclusion and privacy, the 360-degree panoramic vistas of the

surrounding landscape make for a rather spectacular and awe-inspiring

welcome. Yet, whilst the setting is truly beautiful, the architectural

triumph which has been erected upon it is equally stunning, not only

complementing the area’s natural splendour, but also paying homage

to the five-hectare cinnamon plantation encircling it, not to mention Sri

Lanka’s cultural heritage.

Having purchased the estate in 2017, husband and wife Patrick and

Benny Latham set about constructing a distinctive and sustainable

house, that both showcased local craftsmanship and demonstrated

their shared passion for art and good design.

Designed by Sri Lankan architect Narein Perera (who is also a

professor of architecture and a university lecturer), construction of the

house began in 2019 using locally sourced timber, deftly incorporating

key elements of the island nation's architectural vernacular in the


IMAGES: PATRICK LATHAM, DOMINIKA RADOMSKA, FIONA WALKER-ARNOTT

building’s heart and soul. Substantial delays in the build were caused

by the COVID-19 pandemic and the subsequent, much-publicised

island-wide economic troubles. Nevertheless, despite such massive

roadblocks, the project was completed in 2023, highlighting the

tremendous dedication of Perera and his team.

The result is a magnificent building that is not only beautiful to look

at and genuinely enamours from all angles, but is also a joy to stay in,

offering different views from every room, deck, stylish nook and quiet

cranny. And whilst The Round House is a true visual delight to behold,

its beauty is further elevated once the now thriving plantation has been

explored on foot, having been rejuvenated with more than 40,000 new

cinnamon plants courtesy of the Lathams.

The estate also features a garden path stretching for a kilometre,

bordered by an array of indigenous flora, fauna, and fruit trees, which

provides guests with a real immersion in the local environment. And

consistent with The Round House’s ethos, the culinary team focuses on

fresh, locally-sourced ingredients, offering both delicious, traditional Sri

Lankan fare and international dishes, all very much farm-to-table.

Akin to residing in the unpretentious, beautifully designed home of friends

with incredibly good taste and an enchanting art collection, the stay

experience is no less personal than the property, with manager Kasun

and his attentive team keen to please, yet not lingering too long or overservicing

guests.

The Cultured Traveller literally wants for nothing during our short stay and

we're sad to leave such unique lodgings that have evidently been lavished

with considerable love. But with two more rooms due to be added next year,

it is highly likely that The Round House and the captivating estate over

which it presides, will only get even better over time in the caring custody of

the Lathams, and we will surely return. www.trebartha-east.com


45

PRIZE DRAW

INSPIRED BY THE ICONIC WATCHES HISTORICALLY SUPPLIED TO

BRITISH FORCES, VERTEX’S METICULOUSLY CRAFTED 36 RANGE

WAS CREATED TO COMMEMORATE THE 80TH ANNIVERSARY OF

D-DAY ON 6 JUNE 1944, AND ECHO THE SPIRIT OF RESILIENCE AND

PRECISION THAT WERE VITAL ON THAT IMPORTANT DAY

FOUNDED IN 1912 BY HOROLOGICAL VISIONARY,

Claude Lyons, Vertex has a long tradition of creating

reliable, precision timepieces. Designed to perform under

the very harshest conditions, Vertex was the only British

watchmaker commissioned to supply timepieces to the

military as part of Great Britain’s World War 2 war effort. With

a rich history intertwined with military and adventure, and

helmed today by the great-grandson of the brand’s founder,

Vertex continues to embody excellence and ingenuity in its every

one of its watch designs, honouring its heritage while looking

forward to the future.

Vertex’s meticulously crafted 36 range was inspired by the iconic

watches supplied to British forces on D-Day, commemorating its

80th anniversary on 6 June 1944. These historic timepieces

echo the spirit of resilience and

precision that were critical on that

day. Vertex supplied 1,776 watches

for the D-Day landings.

The Vertex Bronze 36 features

a classic 36mm case, making it

suitable for all wrist sizes, and uses

top sapphire crystal, box-shaped

for a distinctly vintage look while

offering unbeatable scratch

resistance. The watch dial guards

the Vertex theme with moulded

X1 Super-LumiNova numerals and

finely printed indexes that ensure

visibility in low-light conditions.

The hands of are crafted from

rhodium and treated with X1 Super-

LumiNova, enhancing legibility and

maintaining the watch’s classic

aesthetic. Inside, the watch is

powered by a SW261 movement,

known for its exacting reliability.

Every Vertex Bronze 36 comes uniquely packaged in a rugged,

custom-made military-grade tactical case, complete with a

number of different straps.

https://vertexwatches.com

Vertex's London store

TO ENTER

Email your contact details to

➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com

The draw will take place on 1 March 2025 and the

winner will be notified privately via email. The prize

is not transferable to another person. The Cultured

Traveller will not share your details with third parties.

Multiple entries will be disqualified. Entrants will be

added to The Cultured Traveller's e-mailing list.


WIN

a limited edition

vertex bronze 36 watch

The Five-Storied Pagoda at the Tō-ji Temple Complex

CITY FOCUS

KYOTO

KYOTO

JAPAN

japan's

cultural

heartbeat

THE PINNACLE OF JAPANESE CIVILISATION, HISTORY AND CULTURE,

THE FORMER CAPITAL OF THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN ALSO

COMBINES BIG CITY SOPHISTICATION WITH SMALL TOWN CHARM.

VISIONS OF GOLDEN LEAF-ACCENTED DARK WOOD PAGODAS,

VERMILLION-COLOURED TORII GATES, AND KIMONO-CLAD WOMEN

ARE NOW FOREVER SEARED INTO ALEX BENASULI'S MEMORY

Kurama, North Kyoto

50

Kurama, North Kyoto

CITY FOCUS

KYOTO

FOR MORE THAN A MILLENNIUM, UNTIL

1868, Kyoto served as the capital of Japan and

the seat of its political, military and religious

power. It is therefore perhaps somewhat

unsurprising, that a Japan of samurais and

geishas, of grand temple complexes and sublime gardens, of

mountain backdrops and crystal-clear streams, and of cherry

blossoms and autumn foliage, are all grandly showcased in

Kyoto. Indeed, the ancient city's glorious past, immense culture,

and gorgeous nature-filled spaces are to be discovered around

every corner.

YET, WHILE KYOTO IS MORE POPULAR AS A TOURIST

destination today than ever before, the city’s myriad of

attractions ensures that there is plenty of room for everyone.

Hidden spots are still be to found and numerous once-in-alifetime

moments can be experienced. This is an exotic and

seductive place, where your jaw will literally drop multiple

times each day, and all your romantic notions of the Land of

the Rising Sun will be more than satisfied.

THEY SAY THAT IN KYOTO, THERE’S A TEMPLE FOR

every mood, taste, and time of the day. With over 2,000 of them

spread across the city, it would take months, if not years, to

explore them all. Large temple complexes with multi-tiered

pagodas and immaculately landscaped gardens give way to

smaller, Shinto shrines. And while many of the country’s most

important buildings and antiquities are to be found in Kyoto,

it is the depth of what is on offer that is truly staggering. Pace

yourself. See the highlights but

allow time to wander around and to

Daigoji Temple go a little off-piste. Invariably you

will stumble upon another marvel

within minutes. For all the throngs

of visitors filling the streets and

temple courtyards, there are also

quieter scenic routes that wind

through residential neighbourhoods,

replete with intimate cafés, art

galleries, and authentic noodle

shops, that all offer natural breaks

from the sightseeing.

IF YOU ONLY HAD A FEW

hours in Kyoto, the delightful

Philosopher’s Walk, in the northern

Higashiyama district, would be the

best way to feel immersed quickly.

The two-kilometre path follows

a canal which is enveloped by

hundreds of cherry blossom trees,


51

Ginkaku-ji Temple

making it one of the city's most popular walks during

the spring.

From one side of the path, some of Kyoto’s most beautiful

temples are accessible, overlooked by the rolling Higashiyama

mountains. During autumn, the same cherry trees and

mountain forests explode in shades of red, yellow and orange.

In the hot and humid summer months, the canal waters,

shaded by the tree canopies, offer some respite from the heat.

Meanwhile, on the other side of the path and leading down

the slope through upscale residential streets, cafés, casual

restaurants and quirky boutiques abound. Just beyond the

northern end of the walk, take a taxi or the metro and make

your way to the temple of Ginkaku-ji.

KNOWN AS THE “SILVER PAVILION”, GINKAKU-JI

was originally built in 1484, though it has been rebuilt and

renovated many times since, following earthquakes and fires

over the centuries. “Silver” refers to the moonlight shadow

cast upon the dark wood exterior of its central pavilion. The

foreground of the temple boasts one of Japan’s most celebrated

sand gardens, meticulously raked into Zen-like concentric

circles, with a massive sand cone as its apex. This “Sea of Silver

Sand with Moon Viewing Platform” (as this garden is formally

called) is designed to encourage spiritual contemplation and

provides an intro to Japanese garden. The much larger “moss”

garden on the other side (of a massive wooden gate) is laid out

as a series of winding pathways, that make their way up the

foothills of the mountain slope, with ponds, streams, bridges,

tea houses and temple buildings as focal points. The views

over the entire garden, the temple buildings, and northern

Higashiyama, are breathtaking.

JUST BEYOND THE SOUTHERN END OF THE

Philosopher’s Walk, around a 40-minute walk from Ginkakuji,

lies the equally impressive Nanzen-ji temple, which dates

back to the mid 13th century. Nanzen-ji’s rock garden is meant

to evoke tigers and cubs crossing through water. Like most

temples in Kyoto, the inner buildings house priceless collections

of fine arts. In the case of Nanzen-ji, these are screen doors

with tigers depicted in gold leaf. A mid-19th century Meiji-era


Sanjūsangen-dō

housed within the longest wooden

structure in japan, the sight of a

thousand statues of kannon, the

buddhist goddess of mercy, neatly

lined in rows, is truly incredible


CITY FOCUS

KYOTO

Funda-in

aqueduct, plus a hidden waterfall 200 metres higher up at

the rear of the complex in the Higashiyama Forest, add to the

allure of Nanzen-ji.

IN BETWEEN GINKAKU-JI AND NANZEN-JI, ALONG OR

just off the Philosopher’s Walk, you will chance upon a handful

of other temples, including magical Hōnen-in, and peaceful

Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji. One can easily spend hours or even days,

soaking up the peaceful atmosphere and natural beauty of this

part of Kyoto.

TO THE SOUTH OF HIGASHIYAMA AND OFTEN

likened to China’s terracotta warriors, a visit to Sanjūsangendō

is quite literally unmissable. Housed within the longest

wooden structure in Japan, built by the famous warlord Taira

no Kiyomori for Emperor Go Shirakawa in 1164, the sight of a

thousand statues of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy,

neatly lined in rows, is truly incredible. The smaller Kannon,

each with 11 heads and 42 arms, flank a much larger central

1000-armed Senjū-Kannon, which was carved by the celebrated

sculptor Tankei in 1254. The word impressive barely conveys

the feeling of gazing upon this army of gold leafed statues,

illuminated from above. www.sanjusangendo.jp

Daigoji Temple

A SHORT WALK FROM SANJŪSANGEN-DŌ IS TŌFOKUji,

another jewel in Kyoto’s’ crown of larger temples. Tōfoku-ji

is usually less crowded than the others. It also has one of the

best gardens to experience the autumn foliage, with scores

of soaring maple trees, an abundance of water features, and

a variety viewing points from which to appreciate the scale

and beauty of one of Japan’s most important Zen temples from

different angles.

Around the corner is Funda-in, a sub-temple of Tōfoku-ji.

This hidden gem has one of the oldest dry landscape gardens

in Kyoto, and a series of traditional Japanese-style rooms -


57

CITY FOCUS

KYOTO

Fushimi Inari Shrine

concealed behind shoji-style sliding doors - house breathtaking

screen paintings and delicate antiques.

TWENTY MINUTES SOUTH FROM TŌFOKU-JI, IS THE

busy, brash, and obviously more commercial Fushimi Inari

Shrine. At first glance, its temple buildings - interspersed with

street food vendors, religious merchandise stall holders - seem

quite different to the more contemplative and elegant temple

sites elsewhere in the city. However, make no mistake, this

is perhaps the most important site in all of Kyoto and almost

certainly its most Instagramed.

Fushimi Inari’s iconic status is secured by the thousands

of vermillion coloured torii gates, some dating back over a

millennium, that straddle a network of trails behind its main

buildings and ascend Mount Inari. The visual effect of multiple

ribbons of brightly hued gates, forming parallel and seemingly

endless pathways upwards, is truly mesmerising. The further

up you climb through the gates and bamboo forests, passing

thousands of moss-covered stone foxes along the way, the

more you will have this remarkable place to yourself. Wear

comfortable shoes, for the climb can take anything up to two

hours. But the spectacular panoramas from the top, across

Kyoto, are well worth the effort to get there! https://inari.jp

THE RIVERSIDE SUBURB OF ARASHIYAMA IS

another part of Kyoto which displays the city’s seductive

charms. Easily accessed by metro, bus or taxi, Arashiyama

is easily worthy of a half-day, if not a whole. This leafy, western

district - nestled along the Katsura River under the watchful

eye of the Arashiyama mountains - makes for extremely

pleasant walking, moderate hiking and cycling, particularly

during mid-March and mid-December during Hanatōuro,

when thousands of lights and flowers softly-illuminate streets

filled with shrines and temples. The soaring bamboo forest

behind the temple of Tenryū-ji and the iconic Togetsukyo

Bridge are two of the best places to experience Hanatoro and

Arashiyama in general.

THE LARGEST AND MOST IMPRESSIVE TEMPLE IN

Arashiyama is Tenryū-ji, which dates back to 1339 and is one

of Kyoto’s five great Zen temples. Its walking and garden paths

are as striking as its main buildings. Nearby, Ōkōchi Sansō


The Bamboo Forest in Arashiyama

Gion

60

Yasaka Shrine, Gion

CITY FOCUS

KYOTO

Gion

whilst you will see kimono-attired

women in the streets, temples,

and hotel lobbies in kyoto, in gion

they are even more prevalent


61


the ancient city's glorious past,

immense culture, and gorgeous

nature-filled spaces are to be

discovered around every corner

CITY FOCUS

KYOTO

Togetsukyo Bridge

is a must for garden lovers. This former villa of one of Japan’s

most famous actors from the last century, has multiple tea

houses, traditional wooden buildings dotted around immaculate

gardens, and views over Arashiyama.

AS IS THE CASE IN HIGASHIYAMA, WHILE THE

traditional tourist highlights are exemplary, you are encouraged

to wander and explore. There are temples and shrines almost

everywhere and the nature around Kyoto is breathtaking. If

you are looking for mountain paths, rolling rivers, babbling

brooks, and bridges straight out of a classic wood block print,

you will find them all in Arashiyama, which also makes an

excellent starting point for adventures in the mountains nearby.

Katsura River, Arashiyama

Sagano Scenic Railway

FOR THE LITTLE LESS ACTIVE, THE 25-MINUTE

Sagano Scenic Railway, which connects Arashiyama to rural

Kameoka through mountainsides, forested ravines and along

the Hozugawa river, is an excellent way to see the incredible

scenery. And the period carriages with their wooden benches - a

faithful reproduction of the original late 19th century train -

only adds to the charming experience.

www.sagano-kanko.co.jp/en

THERE WILL COME A POINT IN YOUR VISIT TO KYOTO

where you will likely become temple saturated. Walking

around for hours at a time stimulates an appetite and the

need to unwind. Gion, historically Kyoto’s entertainment

district, adjacent to Higashiyama, is still the area with

the highest density of bars and restaurants, as well as

traditional Geisha hostess lounges. Whilst you will see

kimono-attired women in the streets, temples, and hotel lobbies

in Kyoto, in Gion they are even more prevalent. ➤


63

CITY FOCUS

KYOTO

Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto

The Shinmonzen

The Shinmonzen

THE HANAMI-KOJI AREA OF GION (ON THE SOUTH

side of Shijo-dori) has the best-preserved streets, with the

highest concentration of traditional, wooden machiya merchant

houses. The side streets also provide multiple characterful

dining and drinking options.

Gion Manzara is a popular but intimate restaurant, set

within a traditional house, that serves Kyoto-style home

cooking on brightly coloured Japanese ceramic dishes, appealing

to both tourists and locals alike www.manzara.co.jp/gion/

A short walk away, the area between Yasaka Shrine leading up

to Kiyomizudera Temple offers another cluster of well-preserved

streets, with numerous choices for more casual dining, as well

as some decent souvenir shopping.

COLLECTORS OF FINE ART, OR THOSE LOOKING FOR

special treasures, should head to Shinmonzen-Dori in Gion,

which is lined with reputable antique and art dealers, some of

whom have been trading for more than a century. To stay in the

heart of Gion, The Shinmonzen is a stylish boutique hotel of

just nine suites, designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect

Tadao Ando, housed within a new wooden machiya house

that took a decade to create. Inside, the hotel's extensive art

collection, which includes works by Damien Hirst and Louise

Bourgeois, lends the place the feel of a gallery.

https://theshinmonzen.com

Meanwhile, to the east of the city and offering a more serene

stay experience, nestled on a hilltop close to the UNESCO-listed

Kiyomizu-dera temple complex, Banyan Tree Higashiyama

Kyoto blends traditional Japanese architecture with modern

sophistication. Designed by renowned architect Kengo Kuma,

this intimate 52-room retreat is enveloped by a tranquil bamboo

forest and the picturesque Higashiyama Mountains. After a

busy day of sightseeing, relax in a natural onsen or rejuvenate

in the sumptuous spa, before feasting on curated kaiseki menus

at kappo-style Ryozen restaurant, made using seasonal Kyoto

ingredients. The hotel is also home to the city's only Noh stageinspired

Bamboo Pavilion, which celebrates Japan’s traditional

performing arts. www.banyantree.com/japan/kyoto


Kyoto Tower

Kyoto Kitcho Arashiyama

OVER IN ARASHIYAMA, MICHELIN-STARRED KYOTO

Kitcho Arashiyama is one of the best places (if not most

expensive), to indulge in multi-course, exquisitely presented

Japanese haute kaiseki cuisine. https://kyoto-kitcho.com/en.

Nearby, Café Hassui sits on Hozugawa River and serves warm

drinks, light bites and evening cocktails, in a sophisticated yet

welcoming setting, with both indoor and outdoor seating,

the latter enjoying charming water views.

www.suirankyoto.com/hassui

WHETHER YOU HAVE A FEW HOURS OR A FEW WEEKS,

spending time in Kyoto is like being in an imperial dream

that one doesn't want to end. With Japan’s glorious and hugely

storied past on display around every corner, visitors leave Kyoto

more entranced than ever by its intriguing motherland spirit,

where art, architecture, nature, tradition and attention to detail

effortlessly come together, creating a unique and deeply

satisfying cultural experience.

https://kyoto.travel/en


CITY FOCUS

KYOTO

whether you have a few hours or a

few weeks, spending time in kyoto

is like being in an imperial dream

that one doesn't want to end

67

R I V E R S I D E P O O L V I L L A

➤ THE SIAM, BANGKOK, THAILAND

suit e envy

SET ALONG THE BANKS OF THE MIGHTY

CHAO PHRAYA, STANDING AS AN OASIS

OF ENCHANTING DESIGN, TIMELESS

ELEGANCE, AND THAI HERITAGE,


CHECKS-INTO A SERENE RIVERSIDE

VILLA AT THE SIAM

intense calm

amidst the

hectic thai capital

69

ENCOMPASSING A NUMBER OF THE

World's 50 Best, Bangkok’s upscale

hotel scene is a vibrant blend of Thai

tradition and contemporary opulence,

offering an extraordinary variety of

experiences for discerning travellers. With sky-high

metropolitan vistas, impeccable Thai hospitality, and a

varying range of ancient and modern design, the city’s

elite hotels somewhat redefine urban living. Grand

lobbies adorned with statement artworks and suites

that overlook Bangkok’s twinkling skyline reflect a

standard of sophistication that appeals to both locals and

international guests alike. Yet within the array of five-star

properties, one particular luxury hotel stands out for its

uniquely intimate, heritage-infused experience.

NOTHING SHORT OF A RIVERSIDE HAVEN, SET

along the banks of the Chao Phraya, The Siam hotel

stands as an oasis of timeless elegance and heritage,

melding the rich cultural history of Thailand with the

sophistication of a world-class retreat. Conceived by

the Sukosol family - one of Thailand’s most prominent

families in the realms of music, art, and hospitality -

the hotel is both a personal passion project and a tribute

to Bangkok’s artistic soul. Kamala Sukosol, the family

matriarch, is not only a celebrated jazz singer but also

a revered figure in the Thai hospitality industry.

Her vision, coupled with the creative drive of her youngest

son, Krissada Sukosol Clapp, has crafted The Siam

into an extraordinary destination where art, architecture,

and personal history coalesce.

THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE SIAM, BOTH

bold and tranquil, reflects the old-world grandeur

of Bangkok’s heritage while embracing a sense of

contemporary minimalism. Designed in collaboration

with acclaimed architect and designer Bill Bensley,

the hotel stands as a series of interconnected, low-rise

buildings adorned with dark woods, high ceilings, and lush

greenery. Bensley’s design skillfully captures the romantic

essence of the early 20th century, paying homage to the

Art Deco period, while subtly intertwining Siamese

aesthetics, all the while set against the rhythm of the

river. As I approach the property from the water, on the

hotel's elegant launch, The Siam appears like a hidden

estate from a bygone era, offering an enticing glimpse into

Bangkok’s rich cultural tapestry and, as I soon discover,

the Sukosol family’s artistic legacy.

STEPPING INSIDE, IT IS EVIDENT FROM THE

get-go, that Bensley’s attention to detail has extended way

beyond the architecture into every corner of the hotel’s

interiors. The eclectic décor is a lovingly curated blend

of antiques, artworks, and furnishings from the Sukosol

family’s private collection. Each space within The Siam

reveals its own story, punctuated by antiques, sculptures,

vintage posters, and tasteful pieces. Timeless furniture

adorns the common areas, reflecting both a reverence for

history and an intimate glimpse into the family’s world.

The public spaces exude a restrained elegance, with marble

floors, polished wood, and touches of Thai silk, with custommade

furnishings creating an atmosphere that feels both

nostalgic and entirely unique. ➤


SUITE ENVY

THE SIAM


71

SUITE ENVY

THE SIAM

YET IT IS KRISSADA SUKOSOL CLAPP, AN

accomplished musician and actor, who brings a

distinctly personal touch to The Siam. His passion

for both the arts and his family’s heritage infuses the

property with a rare warmth. Clapp's involvement is

not simply that of an owner, but rather a curator, and

I understand that he personally selected many of the

artworks and mementoes that adorn the walls. Indeed,

his artistic vision veritably shapes the very character of

The Siam, lending a sense of authenticity and intimacy

that is palpable throughout. And it is this dedication

to storytelling, combined with the Sukosols’ obvious

love for creativity, that sets The Siam apart from every

other Bangkok hotel, and gives it the distinct aura of a

private sanctuary, rather than a commercial operation.

WITHIN MINUTES OF STEPPING ONTO DRY

land, I feel a million miles away from the bustling city

yet still rooted in its culture, while at the same time

entering a world of highly personalised hospitality. The

hotel’s atmosphere is tranquil, almost meditative, with

an undeniable air of exclusivity and privacy. I am gently

ushered into a slower rhythm, where I am able to savour

each moment, and observe every detail. Meanwhile

the warm staff, attentive yet unobtrusive, create an

environment that feels as effortless as it is luxurious.

AS I WANDER AROUND THE PROPERTY, WHICH

feels much like the sprawling mansion of a wealthy,

well-travelled philanthropist with impeccable taste, I

chance upon lush gardens, established trees, and a ➤


serene swimming pool, to a backdrop of lightly trickling

fountains. By now, my mood is soothed and the city is

a distant memory. Inside, a massive, long reflecting

pool in a soaring central light-flooded atrium, is

bedecked with towering birds of paradise plants.

I can't resist pausing to take a photo.

THE 38 ROOMS AND SUITES AT THE SIAM

continue this theme of refined, intimate luxury.

Spacious and airy, each feels more like a private

residence than a hotel suite, designed to evoke a

sense of calm and wellbeing. The décor mirrors

the public spaces, with a blend of antiques and

contemporary comforts. Marble bathrooms, fourposter

beds, and private balconies or gardens offer

guests a secluded retreat from the outside world.

And subtle Thai touches are mild reminders of the

destination’s cultural richness.

MY ACCOMMODATION FOR THE COMING DAYS

is a 130 square metre Riverside Pool Villa. The hotel's

highest accommodation category, there are just three,

all located mere metres from the Chao Phraya.

Walking through the tall, understated doors that

mark the entrance feels like stepping into a secret

sanctuary crafted with a discriminating sense of

peace and character. Dappled light filters through

tropical foliage, casting shadows over a covered terrace

dominated by an oversized daybed large enough for two

or more. A spiral staircase leads up to a private terrace

facing the river, set with two luxe loungers for secluded

sunbathing. I spend every morning here, sipping my


SUITE ENVY

THE SIAM

coffee whilst watching the passing boats. Amidst such

a hectic city, it is a supremely civilised way to start

the day.

Downstairs, a private open-air plunge pool offers

cooling respite from the extreme heat of a Thai summer.

Beyond, the main inside accommodation begins with a

theatrically elevated, super king-sized bed, set beneath

a vaulted ceiling. The dramatic monochromatic colour

scheme which dominates throughout the interiors, is

sprinkled with colourful amenities, soft furnishings,

and a Deco-inspired sofa upholstered in exquisite, handwoven

Jim Thompson fabrics. .

The next space is a combination of a walk-inwardrobe

and dressing room, punctuated by a vintage,

boudoir-style dressing table and matching chair.

The pièce de résistance is a gigantic bathroom fit for

royalty, hung with massive lanterns, the centrepiece of

which is a monolithic stone tub, which, despite not being

a bath person, I make time to have a soak in.

STRIKING AN INTENSELY INVITING, ALMOST

reverent tone, and gracefully blending Thai elegance

with contemporary ease, rich in texture yet deliberately

unembellished, every detail of the villa has obviously

been very carefully chosen to offer a sense of repose.

Together with subtle nods to Siamese heritage, they

achieve a hospitality harmony that is effortless and

exacting, making staying in a Riverside Pool Villa at

The Siam a remarkable experience that lingers long

after I depart.

A night in a Riverside Pool Villa at The Siam costs

THB 60,000 including breakfast.

www.thesiamhotel.

75

H E I D I H O R T E N C O L L E C T I O N

➤ VIENNA, AUSTRIA

the extraordinary

of austria's wealthi


CULTURE

Left: Hypnosis by Erwin Wurm

(2008). Below: Gran Elefandret

by Miquel Barceló (2007)

THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER EXPLORES

THE ARTISTIC LEGACY

OF HEIDI HORTEN,

WHO AMASSED A NEAR

BILLION-DOLLAR ART

COLLECTION DURING

HER LIFETIME,

WHICH IS NOW ON

PERMANENT DISPLAY

IN A MAGNIFICENT

NEW MUSEUM IN THE

HEART OF VIENNA

WHEN SHE DIED

in June 2022 aged

81, literally days

after the unveiling

of her eponymous

new museum, Austria’s wealthiest woman left

behind an extraordinary legacy, deftly blending

elegance and resilience with a profound love

for art. Married three times, with a fortune

valued in the billions, Heidi Horten spent her

later years ardently devoted to collecting art,

an endeavour that markedly flourished during

the 1990s, a period when she reinvented herself

following her first marriage. ➤

artistic legacy

est woman


77

Agnes Husslein

Her journey, marked by both immense wealth

and a genuine appreciation for creativity,

culminated in one of Europe’s most remarkable

private art collections. More than a simple

pursuit of luxury, her passion for collecting

became a meaningful way to genuinely support

artists and celebrate their work.

MRS HORTEN’S FIRST MARRIAGE WAS

to German businessman Helmut Horten, a

retail magnate who amassed considerable

wealth in post-war Europe. Though their

union was cut short by his death in 1987, it

provided her with the financial foundation

that would eventually set the stage for her

ventures into the art world. Yet it was not

until her second marriage that she developed

an intense enthusiasm for collecting, opening

a new and enduring connection to the art

world that transformed her later years.

HEIDI HORTEN’S SECOND MARRIAGE

rekindled her zest for life, sparking a chapter

filled with creativity and inspiration. It

was during this time that she met Agnes

Husslein in London. A high flying Sotheby’s

art expert and Director of Development

Ansicht Atrium

for the European Guggenheim Museum,

with a discerning eye and a natural instinct

for recognising artistic potential, Husslein

became not only a trusted advisor but also a

personal guide, ushering Mrs Horten into the

vibrant worlds of modern and contemporary

art. Courtesy of Husslein, Mrs Horten was

introduced to celebrated contemporary artists,

and coached in the subtleties of collecting with

a clear sense of purpose and perspective.

UNDER HUSSLEIN’S GUIDANCE, MRS

Horten’s collection grew from classical works

into a dynamic, thoughtfully curated assembly

of 20th-century masterpieces, including pieces

by Pablo Picasso, Jean-Michel Basquiat,

and Francis Bacon. The collection became a

reflection of her expanding tastes, blending

established icons with rising stars. Husslein was

instrumental in fostering this evolution, forging

connections with influential gallerists and


CULTURE

HEIDI HORTEN COLLECTION

introducing Mrs Horten to creators who

challenged conventions and expanded

her vision. Her mentorship enabled

Mrs Horten to transform from an art

enthusiast into a discerning collector with a

deep sense of responsibility and pride for the

works she gathered.

AS THE COLLECTION DEVELOPED,

Husslein’s role became even more integral.

She was not merely suggesting acquisitions;

she played a pivotal role in shaping an

artistic legacy for Mrs Horten. Each new

addition brought coherence and purpose to

the collection. Rather than being a simple

gathering of prestigious names, it grew into

a carefully curated narrative of modern and

post-modern artistry, tracing revolutions,

and showcasing varied voices from the 20th

and 21st centuries. The collection soon

earned recognition as one of Europe’s finest,

Heidi Horten in the 1970s, Düsseldorf, Germany

admired not only for its value, but also for its

thoughtfulness and historical scope.

THE BOND BETWEEN MRS HORTEN

and Husslein was one of mutual respect and a

shared enjoyment of art. Through Husslein’s

influence, Mrs Horten began to view her

collection as more than an assortment of

renowned artists, but rather as a cultural

being with the power to educate and inspire.

Husslein’s understanding of the art world

granted Mrs Horten access to an elite

network of artists and dealers, allowing

her collection to achieve its true potential.

Together, they curated a legacy that reflected

Mrs Horten’s personal journey and her

commitment to the arts. ➤


79

Heidi Horten in 2019 with her dog, Bauxi, in front of Study for a Portrait of John Edwards by Francis Bacon (1985)


81

CULTURE


TOWARDS THE END OF HER LIFE, MRS

Horten grew increasingly determined to

share her collection with the world. While her

wealth had allowed her to amass a cultural

treasure, it was her vision, fostered by her

relationship with Husslein, that led her to

take the next step. The idea of a museum

took root - a place to house her life's artistic

work and make it accessible to the public,

at the same time positioning Vienna at the

heart of the modern art scene.

SERVING AS A TESTAMENT TO MRS

Horten’s enduring belief in creativity’s

transformative power, and under the close

supervision of Husslein, a site in the heart

of the city was secured for the creation of a

new museum to house the collection.

Located a stone’s throw from the Vienna

State Opera, the historic rear wing of the

city’s former 1914 archducal office building,

invisible from the street, underwent a

remarkable rebirth, in an incredibly short

timeframe of some two years from startto-finish,

to transform it into a museum of

international standing and appeal.

Led by a team of innovative architects and

driven by Husslein, the transformation saw,

within the hemmed-in site, the construction

of cutting-edge galleries spanning

multiple floors, which cleverly weave

the surroundings into the building. This

begins with an arrival dialogue between

the museum and visitors, via a courtyard

planted with trees and punctuated with

sculptural works, which makes the site feel

like a secret island of art, ripe for discovery.

A bench running the length of the sculpture

garden both frames it and gestures visitors

to enter the building, which is unique for any

Viennese museum and sets a welcoming tone

for what’s to come inside.

Tea Room

SINCE MRS HORTEN WAS ESSENTIALLY

living with the priceless works she amassed

during her lifetime, the museum was similarly

designed to share the same highly personal

engagement with art, enhanced by the

selection of materials and textures used, that

also convey a sense of intimacy, together with

a warming interplay of daylight and artificial

lighting, which is also unique for Vienna.

IN A CITY WHERE MOST OF THE

museums are somewhat stuffy and

impersonal, the Heidi Horten Collection is

contrarily intensely inviting, and encourages

visitors to move through its airy and

uncluttered spaces with a sense of fluidity.

Throughout the three pristine floors linked

by staircases that appear to float, the art is

noticeably allowed to breathe. Thus, visitors

enjoy an enhanced viewing experience, and

are offered moments of quiet introspection

amidst the visual splendour. Indeed, the

overall ethereal quality of the museum's

interiors make the Heidi Horten Collection

a captivating and unmissable addition to

Vienna’s cultural landscape.

RENOWNED FOR HER LOVE OF COLOUR

and contrasts between the old and the new,

Heidi Horten’s incredible artistic legacy

is now enshrined within the walls of a

truly magnificent museum, which expertly

showcases her lifelong passion for art.

Agnes Husslein and Heidi Horten in 2018, at Vienna's Leopold

Museum. Behind, Buste d’Homme by Pablo Picasso (1969)

And her dedication to collecting and preserving

masterpieces will now live on ad infinitum,

offering future generations the chance to

appreciate Heidi Horten’s vision and

the creative beauty that she saw in the

world. https:// hortencollection.com


83

E V E R E S T B A S E C A M P T R E K

➤ SAGARMATHA NATIONAL PARK, NEPAL

the trek of

a lifetime

FIRST-TIME TREKKER NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU EMBARKS

UPON AN EPIC ADVENTURE TO THE FOOT OF THE WORLD'S HIGHEST

PEAK, WEAVING THROUGH BREATHTAKING NEPALESE LANDSCAPES,

ANCIENT MONASTERIES, WINDING RIVERS, AND SHERPA CULTURE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROL SACHS

Everest Base Camp of Thamserku Expedition

OFF THE

BEATEN

TRACK

85

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

THE WORDS "I'M TREKKING TO

Everest Base Camp" are not some

I ever envisaged uttering in my

lifetime. Indeed, when it was first

muted that I join the expedition,

I instinctively said "no". Granted, I'm partial to a

not-hugely-challenging hike at least once-a-year,

often on my birthday, to prove (to myself) that I'm

not that old, yet. And last year, I even pushed myself

to hike the India Venster trail up Table Mountain

in Cape Town, which is classified as the mountain's

most dangerous, necessitates scrambling, and is a

one-way route. When all of my South African friends

refused to accompany me, my guide was an inspiring

60-something lady from the Greek island of Milos,

who got me to the top in around three-hours, before

the skies dramatically parted and we had to get down

by cable car down ASAP, for fear of being stranded.

When I then caroused 'til the early hours that night

(to celebrate turning another year older), and woke

the next day without any post-climb aches and pains,

even I was impressed. But not for a second did I

imagine, that the following year, I would be flying to

Nepal to embark upon an epic trek to the world's most

famous base camp, more than five kilometres above

sea level.

DAY TWO: KATHMANDU VIA

LUKLA TO PHAKDING

Having spent the previous day and night in the

Nepalese capital, shopping for climbing gear, meeting

the group, being briefed, and preparing for an

inordinately early start, the scale of the expedition

doesn't really hit me until our small plane is coming

in to land at Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla, which

is perched on the edge of a cliff and nestled between

two mountains, leaving no room for pilot error. As

we board the twin turboprop in Kathmandu, a friend

directs me to sit up front and center, to get the best

view. "Best view of what?" I reply. "You'll see" he says,

with a wicked smile.

APPROACHING LUKLA, THE AIRCRAFT NOISE

alone is enough to unsettle even the most seasoned

traveller. Add to this a seriously steep descent and the

world's shortest landing strip (barely 500 metres long)

and I don't think I need say much more. Thankfully,

I haven't Googled the airport before the flight, for it is

reputedly the most dangerous on the planet.

Touching down, a shiver of excitement ripples

through me, mingling with an undercurrent of

unease. All around, I’m struck by both the beauty

and the intensity of this place. The air is cool and

noticeably more-thin, hinting at the altitude that

may well present a challenge. But I'm excited more

than anything else, and somewhat thrilled to tread

some of the same rugged paths that mountaineers

have walked for decades, on their way up to the

roof of the world. Saying that, even as exhilaration

courses through me, I can’t ignore a subtle tension

tightening my shoulders. The ascent to Everest Base

Camp (EBC) is a journey into the unknown for me,

both physically and mentally. I’ve never ventured so

high before, and the whispers of altitude sickness

and exhaustion echo in my mind, gnawing at my

confidence.

WHAT I DO KNOW IS THAT THE NEXT TEN

days or so promise breathtaking landscapes, winding

trails, and soaring heights. Yet they will also demand

resilience and endurance I’m not sure I possess,

not to mention a modicum of patience, since I will

be trekking with some people I have known for

five seconds. The latter presents a set of different

challenges for which I am woefully unprepared,

having shied away from group activities for

decades. But I am told that the expedition is so well

staffed by sherpas and support crew, that should

I wish to separate and do my own thing at any

point, I am welcome to do so, and will be equally

well taken care of. In time, this transpires to be

the reason why my EBC trekking experience is so

personal and memorable.

PERCHED ON THE EDGE OF THE HIMALAYAS

and the gateway to the entire Everest/Khumbu

region of Nepal, Lukla is no ordinary mountain

town. Sitting at 2,860 metres and originally a Sherpa

village, Lukla rose to prominence when its famous

airport opened in 1964, opening up the valley to

even more trekkers and climbers. Its evolution from

a quiet settlement to a bustling hub reflects Nepal’s

intertwining history of adventure and resilience.

After such a thrilling landing, my first stroll along

Lukla’s narrow pedestrianised main thoroughfare

is an experience that lingers. Small, scruffy shops

jostle with cafés and tatty pubs. Fringing the

pavement, low-quality trekking gear is stacked

alongside toilet rolls and tubes of toothpaste, while

Tibetan prayer flags flutter in the wind above. I

can almost feel the tales of the Everest climbers

who have walked the same paving stones as I

am walking now, and the town is palpably alive

with whispers of past expeditions and the quiet

anticipation of more yet to come.

WE PAUSE TO RE-GROUP AT MLN LUKLA

Lodge which lies at the very end of the town.

A well-known establishment to trekkers, for it has ➤


MLN Lukla Lodge

MLN Phakding Lodge

MLN Monjo Lodge



been the first or last stop for thousands, a hearty

breakfast awaits, together with time to re-pack our

all important backpacks in readiness for our first trek

that morning. Looking at everyone else's more serious

backpacks than mine, and a general proliferation of

equipment and all-weather wear, I wonder whether

I’ve prepared enough, or if it’s even possible to prepare

enough for such a journey. I'm repeatedly warned

that weather conditions are unpredictable in such

a high-altitude region and can change very quickly.

Gazing at the majestic panorama in-front of me, I feel

caught between anticipation and doubt, already awed

by the mountains, but equally aware of the daunting

challenge they present and what lies ahead.

LEAVING LUKLA BEHIND, THE TRAIL

towards Phakding unfurls through landscapes

that often feel almost mythical. Because the first

trek is largely downhill, I'm able to appreciate the

deep green forests lining the path, punctuated by

small bursts of vividly colourful springtime flowers,

including rhododendrons and miniature irises.

Terraced fields cling to steep slopes. I spot villagers

tending to their crops. I feel alive and energised.

Soon we arrive at the small settlement of

Chheplung, its giant prayer wheels reflecting its

deep Buddhist heritage. I spin them clockwise as

I pass. A Nepalese prayer wheel is a cylindrical

drum, often made of metal or wood and mounted

on a spindle, containing scrolls of paper inscribed

with Buddhist mantras, most commonly Om Mani

Padme Hum. Every rotation is said to send prayers

and blessings into the world, multiply the mantra’s

power, and spread goodwill and peace. So I spin

every wheel I come across.

I HEAR IT BEFORE I SEE IT, BUT MY FIRST

glimpse of the Dudh Koshi River stops me in my

tracks. True to its name, the “Milk River's” foaming

waters cascade over smooth boulders, their icy

blue-green hues shimmering in the sunlight. The

sound of its rushing current is both invigorating

and soothing and remains my welcome, constant

companion for the next few hours, together with the

appearance of suspension bridges, which gradually

increase in length and height over the days that

follow, providing increasingly thrilling crossings.

As nature's raw beauty slowly becomes more

spectacular and somewhat ethereal, the higher we

go, both humbling and profoundly uplifting me, the

bridges provide a tangible link to the real world.

ALONG THE WAY, A MONUMENT TO

devotion and artistry, intricately carved with

Tibetan script, the surface of Thado Koshi's enormous

Mani stone bears centuries-old mantras, invoking

blessings for all who pass. Sherpa porters and

trekkers alike all pause momentarily. And these

sacred relics of Himalayan Buddhism are comforting

sentinels on my journey.

OUR FIRST NIGHT'S STOP FROM LUKLA,

deftly blending into the natural surroundings and

perched just above the Dudh Koshi's tumbling waters,

MLN Phakding Lodge offers a haven of tranquillity

amidst the verdant Himalayan landscape, together with

a wealth of creature comforts. My homely room, lined in

natural timber, overlooks the ever-present river below

and the team has kindly set-up a desk and chair for me

to write. This is sherpa hospitality at its most kind and

thoughtful. I rest, take a hot shower, and sit down with

the group to an impromptu wine dinner, during which

celebrated Argentinian winemaker, Jose Zuccardi,

speaks about some of his vintages being served. Mindful

of the longer and more demanding trek that lies ahead

the next day, it's not easy to tear myself away from the

good conversation and fine wines, but sadly I must. I

sleep like a baby under a heated blanket.

DAY THREE:

PHAKDING TO MONJO

While the group is up and out the door at 8am, I stay

behind to work until noon, have some homemade soup

for lunch, and set off with a sherpa guide, Lahkpa, who

accompanied me on our first day of trekking, when we

moved ahead of the main group. Over the coming week,

I trust Lahkpa with my life. It's amazing how quickly

bonds are forged and friends are made when one's away

from the complications of day-to-day life.

THE TREK FROM PHAKDING BEGINS WITH A

steady, almost tranquil walk along the Dudh Koshi,

its relentless rush offering a soothing rhythm. On

the opposite bank begins the scattered hamlet of

Sano Gumela. We cross the river and gently ascend

through grassy forests of blue pine and silver fir.

The scent of the trees, fresh and resinous, fills

the air, and the stillness is broken only by the

occasional bird call. It's a delightful setting and as

we ascend higher, I’m rewarded with vistas that

instantly necessitate a photo stop - the mountains

looming large, their jagged peaks piercing the sky,

overwhelming me with their splendour.

TURNING OFF THE WELL-TRODDEN EVEREST

trail, we make our way towards the village of Thulo

Gumela, where the ensuing climb is gradual but

steady, surrounded by the silent, dense pines that

seem to be holding their breath. The final ➤


89



hundred metres or so, up to Rimishung Monastery,

are the toughest yet and a little taste of things to

come, I guess.

A cornerstone of spiritual life in the region and a

sacred site, locally known as Pema Choling Gumba,

when we arrive at the monastery, perched high above

the valley, a dozen or so children are playing out

front and a day-long celebration of Buddha Jayanti

is unfolding within what I imagine would otherwise

be a place of total serenity. But not today. Instead,

we are treated to dancing by locals in traditional

dress, performing to a hall full of villagers and their

families. A panel of elders, seated at a long table,

look on. Meanwhile the main interior shrine, brightly

painted with images of numerous deities, is silent and

radiates spiritual energy, inviting a personal moment

of quiet reflection. Combined with its awe-inspiring

surroundings, visiting Rimishung, with its rich

heritage dating back more than 500 years, and deep

connection to the teachings of Tibetan Buddhism, is

an intense and reflective moment for me.

DESCENDING FROM RIMISHUNG, WE

follow a lesser-known trail that weaves through

Gumela, continuing towards Zam Fute. Here,

monumental mani walls stand as testaments to time,

their stone carvings intricate and ancient, each one

telling stories of devotion and history. Before long,

we rejoin the classic Everest trail, encountering

other trekkers also heading to Monjo. Along the

way, we pass through a village called Benkar at

2,800 metres, which is predominantly inhabited by

the Sherpa community, including my trusty guide

Lahkpa's family. I'm invited into his home and his

wife makes tea and introduces me to their baby son.

It's a wonderfully natural moment that connects

me to my guide and now his family. Photos around

the house include Lahkpa at the summit of various

mountains, reinforcing the Sherpas' deep connection

to the Himalayas. I pause for a rest before we move

on through the village, the fertile land surrounding

it allowing its residents to grow much of their food,

including potatoes, barley, wheat, and vegetables on

terraced fields carved into the hillsides.

We push on towards Monjo, the day’s journey

leaving me a little physically weary but spiritually

nourished, each step adding to the insightful beauty

of my Himalayan adventure thus far. My legs are

noticeably heavier as the trail ascends, but the

thought of reaching Monjo keeps me moving forward.

Located at the end of the village at 2,850 metres,

we arrive at pretty MLN Monjo Lodge at around 5pm.

It feels like home at once. My cosy room at the front

enjoys breathtaking mountain vistas, and I watch a

herd of horses slowly amble along the path opposite,

just beyond a garden and large greenhouse where the

lodge's chef grows many of the ingredients used in his

delicious food.

After a nourishing dinner, a monk from the local

monastery brings a router to my room so I am connected

and able to get some work done. Such is his genuine

warmth and kindness, that he waits in the lounge

downstairs until he is sure that I have what I need.

DAY FIVE: MONJO TO

NAMCHE BAZAAR

We are up early the next morning for what we

unanimously expect to be the toughest trek of the

expedition towards Namche. Starting off easy

with a gentle walk down into the valley, soon after

leaving Monjo, we reach the entrance to Sagarmatha

National Park at Jorshale, where the group's

excitement grows. Thereafter, the path is punctuated

by many suspension bridges crossing the growing

river, filled with countless steps, and we encounter ➤



En route from Thame to Namche helipad



noticeably more people, most of which are sherpas

carrying goods.

CONSTANTLY MOVING UPWARDS, THE

scenery becomes more spectacular the higher I

go, until reaching the confluence of two rivers –

one from Thame and the other from Khumbu

- where an incredibly high suspension bridge

is the first time I cross with haste, passing

other people mid-way, which makes me nervous.

Thereafter is the hardest trek to date, ascending

steeply through dense forest. We stop every so often so I

can refuel with a protein bar before continuing upwards.

But it's tough.

About halfway up, in a clearing where fellow

trekkers have paused for sustenance and a toilet

break, I get the the first glimpse of Mount Everest

in all her glory. It's an incredible sight and

energises me onwards, as we head upwards, my

legs beginning to burn.

As we continue the steady climb towards Namche

Bazaar, the entirely upward trek necessitates frequent

pauses for a slug or water or simply to breathe normally.

WHEN WE FINALLY REACH THE ENTRANCE

to Namche, it’s not over. The last stretch, winding up

through the village and around the top, on the upper

slopes of Namche, proves to be the most challenging.

In the interim, we have a coffee break in town. I'm

exhausted and my legs are bloody sore, but the town's

ancient energy is palpable and there is an undeniable

romance in the air.

Having ascended some 600 metres, the sense of

accomplishment when we reach MLN Namche

Lodge at 3,440 metres, makes the day's exertions

worthwhile. But my body is not reacting well to

the medication I'm taking to prevent symptoms of

altitude sickness, Diamox (acetazolamide), and I am

completely floored.

I understand that Diamox doesn't agree with

everyone and unfortunately I'm completely knockedout

for the next few days. Weak, lightheaded and dizzy,

with zero appetite, I stay in my room, try to get a bit of

work done, but mostly just rest, sleep, observe the clouds

drifting past my window, intermittently obscuring the

view of the Lego-like town below, and wait it out.

The following day, I miss out on the hike to

Khumjung village, the home of the Sir Edmund

Hillary School, that was built in 1961. I don't leave

my room at all, and am kindly looked after by the

wonderful team at MLN Namche Lodge, who ensure

I have enough hot water and some food staples. The

electrolytes I brought to Nepal with me come in very

handy at this point!

DAY SEVEN: NAMCHE BAZAAR

I manage a little breakfast in my room and am then

persuaded to take a gentle walk, up a hill behind the

lodge to Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centre.

Having stopped taking Diamox a few days earlier,

the air feels thinner and breathing is not as easy

as it was, but I take it slowly to the top, encouraged

by a friend, and am rewarded with an incredible

panorama, surrounded by an array of mountains

including Ama Dablam, Nuptse and Thamserku,

most of which are obscured by cloud cover, but the air

is fresh, the skies are bright blue, and it feels good to

be with Mother Nature again.

As I am standing in-front of a life-size bronze of

Tenzing Norgay, the clouds part revealing Everest

behind the statue. In the same shot, I snap the world's

highest mountain and a statue of a man who forever

changed mountaineering history. It's a magic moment

that comes at the perfect time. From then on, I focus

on being fit enough to trek some 15 or 16 kilometres

the following day to Thame, which is the longest leg

thus far.

THAT AFTERNOON, LAHKPA ACCOMPANIES

me on a walk around bustling Namche Bazaar. With

its origins dating back to the 16th century, the town

has long served as the gateway to the Himalayas

and been a place where trade routes converge and

cultures meet. Once a simple sherpa trading post,

its evolution into a bustling market town is both

fascinating and humbling, with its special charm

lying in its unique blend of tradition and modernity,

with bars and trekking shops sitting side-by-side

with local butchers and grocers. High up on the

opposite side of the town, we head to Namche's

monastery, which is hung with colourful Thanka

paintings of Tibetan deities. I have a decent

meal that night and by the time we leave the next

morning, at least I've acclimatised to the altitude and

am off the medication.

DAY EIGHT: NAMCHE

BAZAAR TO THAME

I breakfast with Lahkpa at MLN Namche Lodge

before bidding goodbye to my home for the past three

nights and heading off, slightly nervous, but also

happy to be back in the open air.

MOST TREKKERS AND TOURISTS IN NAMCHE

take the northeast trail out of town, towards Everest.

Instead, we head northwest towards Thame, along a

path obviously less trodden. It's just me and Lahkpa

and nature in all her glory. Trekking in such ➤


93



dramatic settings becomes addictive and I

realise that I've missed it. I sing along to music

playing in my ears as we meander through a

dense forest and a number of small villages,

each preceded by a small Buddhist shrine,

known as a chorten. Often shaped like a dome or

spire, they symbolise peace and spirituality and

are typically painted white and adorned with

colourful prayer flags, representing the Buddha’s

mind and teachings.

AFTER A FEW HOURS, THE WEATHER

changes suddenly, the sky turns grey and it begins

to drizzle. Lahkpa puts me in a particularly

unflattering poncho and we continue. A bridge

ahead of us is completely engulfed in mist at the

other end and appears to lead into the abyss.

Crossing it is somewhat un-nerving. As soon as the

clouds clear the poncho is discarded and we stop for

a delicious lunch of local food.

Refueled and making our way through a beautiful

valley, I am entirely in my element, alone but for

Lahkpa, enjoying the stunning scenery. It's a bit of

a long grind, and towards the end we are drenched

by a downpour and arrive at MLN Thame lodge at

3,800 metres, soaked and exhausted. But there's

a warm welcome waiting, I re-join the group, and

that evening we are entertained by a group of local

dancing mothers who utterly delight us all.

DAY NINE:

THAME TO KONGDE

Regarded as a holy mountain by settlers in the

Khumbu region, I awake to spectacular views of

Kongde Ri, set against clear blue skies. Clouds

preclude a planned helicopter pick-up from

Thame to our next lodge, so we must trek back in

the same direction as my previous day, which is

a bit of a pain in the ass. But the route is altered

slightly, the weather is glorious, and as we come

down through the valley, we are all in awe of the

incredible sights that greet us, with Everest in the

distance.

On the outskirts of Namche, a helicopter whisks

us up to MNL Kongde Lodge at 4,250 metres,

which is the highest hotel in the region. Also the

highest altitude I've ever experienced, thankfully

I'm unaffected and blessed with an incredible

panorama from my room, which includes Everest

at eye level and Namche in the foreground. It's a

mesmerising sight and it's mine for the next two days

and nights. That evening, tales are exchanged around

the wood-burner in the lodge's cosy lounge, and I

show the bartender how to make a proper G&T!

DAY TEN: FARAK RI

After a good breakfast, we set off on what turns out to

be a five-hour acclimatisation trek to the top of Farak

Ri, behind the lodge. Definitely the toughest trek so

far and much more demanding, especially navigating

a treacherous, rocky ridge towards the end, I make

it to the peak, encircled by guides. Meanwhile some

of my fellow trekkers opt not to attempt the final leg,

which baffles me having got 95% of the way.

COMING DOWN PROVES TO BE MORE

difficult that I envisage, and I have a fleeting "moment"

as I come off the peak, when I momentarily freeze and

doubt by ability to continue. Sherpas guide me down and

I feel noticeably encircled by their care. At one point,

Lahkpa offers to carry me down, which I politely

refuse. But I do give him my backpack to carry,

so I can focus all my efforts on descending safely.

It's a great comfort to see MNL Kongde ahead and

eventually I am back "home", in the warmth of the lodge,

enjoying drinks in the lounge and looking forward to the

exciting days ahead at Everest Base Camp.

DAY ELEVEN: KONGDE TO

EVEREST BASE CAMP

After breakfast, three separate helicopter flights transport

us from Kongde via Lukla and Pheriche to Everest Base

Camp. Hats off to trek organiser Jason Friedman for

transporting all of us, with our luggage, to EBC with

military precision. It's quite an operation. For the third

flight, from Pheriche to EBC, regulations dictate that we

are ferried two at a time, which adds even more planning

to an already intensely complicated day.

TO SAY THAT LANDING AT EBC IS

otherworldly is a huge understatement. Surrounded

by the towering snow-capped peaks of Lhotse,

Changtse, Pumori, and Nuptse, the landscape

is nothing short of breathtaking, I've never seen

anything like it before and I am genuinely lost

for words. What makes the experience even more

exceptional, is the fact that the camp is pretty much

empty, due to the fact that all Everest climbers

finished summiting the preceding week, and cleared

out after descending the mountain, taking the

communications tower with them. For some reason,

the prospect of being out of touch with the rest of the

world doesn't particularly bother me.

Located south of Everest, Lhotse towers over the

camp, its wide and prominent mountain face looking

down on us from its 8,516-metre peak - the fourthhighest

in the world. Lhotse's immense, majestic

presence is a graceful constant over the coming days. ➤


Namche Bazaar

Mount Everest from MLN Kongde Lodge



DUE TO THE ALTITUDE (WE ARE 5,364

metres up, after all) my chest is tight and breathing

is difficult. But I'm fine for the first few hours,

settle into my tent, and move around the camp

with care, since we are essentially living on a slowlymelting

glacier.

After some lunch in a dome-like structure at the

center of the camp, where we spend much of our time

when we are not in our individual tents, the group

sets out for the Khumbu Icefall.

Difficulty breathing slows me down considerably

and in terms of walking and moving around, I've

physically aged thirty years in a matter of hours.

Mentally I'm A OK, but I cannot do what I want

to and I become frustrated. I attempt a slow walk

across the treacherous terrain towards a viewpoint,

accompanied by a guide and a fellow trekker. But

barely five hundred metres in, I have to turn back,

for fear of not having enough energy to make it back

to camp. I stop frequently to breathe and snap a few

photos, and desperately want to go further, but it's

impossible.

As I near the camp, my legs give way beneath me

and I'm carried to my tent where my boots are pulled

off and I'm put to bed, where I remain all night under

close supervision. In and out of consciousness, I sleep

fitfully and hallucinate much of the night.

DAY TWELVE:

EVEREST BASE CAMP

I wake-up the next morning dreadfully sleep deprived

and weak. When four members of the group (all a

generation younger than I!) decide to pay for their

own helicopter to back to Lukla, I feel less pitiful

and decide to stay. After all, it's not every day one

is encircled by such a tableau of overwhelming

sights, nestled within the lap of the Khumbu

Glacier, surrounded by vast stretches of fractured

ice scattered like a natural mosaic. All around,

glacial blue hues intertwine with the greys of

ancient rock, their stark beauty illuminated by

the brilliant sunlight of a high Himalayan spring.

Despite having difficulty breathing, I'm not going

anywhere. Not yet anyway.

I SPEND THE DAY IN-AND-AROUND THE

camp. I sit at the edge of my tent, facing a burbling

glacial stream within mere metres of my boots,

sipping tea and enjoying the sound of water running

downhill, undisturbed by social media or other first

world intrusions. It's just me and Mother Nature.

When the others return from their adventures,

I join them to hear their stories. With less people

in the group, more laughter ensues, and my time at

EBC becomes some of my most memorable.

At dusk, as the sun dips below the jagged

skyline, the sky is lit up by streaks of colour which

are mirrored in the icy expanse below. And we

collect as a group to gaze at the plethora of stars

twinkling in the sky above.

DAY THIRTEEN:

EVEREST BASE CAMP

Reminding us all that Mother Nature dictates what

we can or cannot do in her Himalayas, much of

the day is spent by the trek organisers, trying to

arrange helicopter transfers to Lukla for an end-oftrek

party that night. However, despite their best

endeavours, we remain at Base Camp for an extra

unplanned day and night, and use the time to make

a dent in the remaining stash of wine, including

having an unconventional alfresco Sunday brunch in

the snow. It takes just a bottle and a half of wine to

make half a dozen of us merry.

DAY FOURTEEN:

EVEREST BASE CAMP

TO KATHMANDU

In the crisp morning air, the distant roar of an

avalanche echoes through the valley, a reminder

of the mountains' sublime yet indifferent power.

All around, the atmosphere carries an otherworldly

quality, simultaneously serene and electric,

imbued with the determination of climbers past

and the spiritual weight of the sacred mountains.

And whilst breathing is still an issue, when the

helicopter eventually arrives to transport us back

to the real world, I am genuinely sad to leave,

or Everest Base Camp is a place that defies

earthly comparison.

THE END OF MY TREK OF A LIFETIME

comes in the form of a spectacular high-altitude

helicopter ride, during which the pilot takes us

up to even greater heights, towards the face of

elegant mount Lhotse, before flying us down

the valley to Lukla. An out-of-this world finale,

as I arrive back in Kathmandu that afternoon,

having descended some 4,000 metres in a matter

of hours, it is the sheer magnificence of the

Himalayas that lingers most vividly in my mind - a

realm where human ambition meets the untamed

majesty of Mother Nature, for whom I now

have a newfound and lasting reverence.

https://mountainlodgesofnepal.com/journeys


97

DESTINATION

SPOTLIGHT

Sri Dalada Maligawa

KANDY

SRI LANKA

sri lanka's

last kingdom

SURROUNDED BY LUSH HILL COUNTRY, AND THE ISLAND NATION'S SECOND LARGEST

CITY AFTER COLOMBO, CAROLYN MCKAY IS ENCHANTED BY THE HISTORY,

ARCHITECTURE, AND TRADITIONS OF SRI LANKA'S FORMER ROYAL CAPITAL


99

SPOTLIGHT

KANDY

NESTLED AMIDST THE

verdant central highlands of

the teardrop island nation of

Sri Lanka, surrounded by lush

tea plantations and abundant

rainforests teeming with wildlife, the historic

city of Kandy seems a world away from the urban

sprawl of the country’s administrative capital,

Colombo, several hours west.

DECLARED A WORLD HERITAGE SITE

by UNESCO in 1988, upon arriving in modernday

Kandy, you could be mistaken for thinking

that it is just another bustling, commercial, and

rapidly developing Indian Ocean metropolis. But

it doesn’t take long to discover that this dynamic

city has a rich and stately pedigree that dates

back centuries, a history which is still very much

a source of pride and admiration today for the

predominately Sinhalese population, as well as

for Buddhist pilgrims who visit year-round from

around the world.

This heritage is no more evident than when

one sets out early morning to explore Kandy

Lake. The manmade body of water, also known

as Bogambara Lake, is the legacy of the last

Kandyan king, and was created in the early 19th

century, just a few years before his kingdom was

finally appropriated by the British Empire.

AS THE SUN BEGINS TO RISE, BEFORE

the traffic and the heat of the day build, there

is a palpable pause in Kandy, as the dawn light

glimmers across the still waters, and one can feel

a sense of the great standing that this former city

once held. Close your eyes, and you can almost

hear laughter and music emanating from the

island in the centre of the lake, for local legend

says that it was used by the King’s harem, and

was connected to the Royal Palace by a secret

underground tunnel.

KANDY WAS ONCE A ROYAL CITY KNOWN

as Maha Nuwara (Great City) and reigned the

island for more than three centuries until 1815.

Under the island-wide Kingdom of Kotte, which

unified the island in the early 15th century, the

Kandyan Kingdom, with its realm extending

Young monks walking along the embankment of Kandy Lake

100

SPOTLIGHT

KANDY

Kandy Palace Complex

Kandy's old town

Queen's Hotel

SPOTLIGHT

KANDY

across the central and eastern areas of Sri Lanka,

maintained a semi-autonomous state, appointing

Kandy as its capital in 1469.

During the 1500s, whilst the Portuguese

conquered vast areas of the island around the

coast, Kandy maintained its independence as a

Buddhist and Sinhalese stronghold, protected

in part by its geographic position surrounded by

jungle terrain, as well as the tenacity of its devout

population.

IN 1590, IN THE FIRST YEAR OF HIS REIGN,

King Vimaladharmasuriya brought the sacred

tooth relic of Buddha to Kandy, to ensure that

it was protected from the Portuguese, and as a

political ploy, for it was deemed that only those

who had custody of the tooth, had the right to rule.

A few years later in 1592, as the Portuguese's

rule of the island widened, Kandy become the last

surviving capital of the Sinhalese monarchy.

AMIDST THE UNCERTAINTY

surrounding Buddha’s death in 486 BC, it is

believed his left canine was snatched from the

flames of his funeral pyre. Hidden in her hair,

the sacred relic was smuggled to Sri Lanka by

Princess Hemmamali, where it was secreted in

various locations around the island for many

years, until its final move to Kandy.

The first temple that was purpose built for the

sacred tooth by King Vimaladharmasuriya, was

soon destroyed by the Portuguese. And the second

temple, constructed on the same site, was later

burnt by the Dutch.

THE ELABORATE TEMPLE COMPLEX

which still houses the relic today, known as Sri

Dalada Maligawa, was built in the early 1700s.

Commonly known as The Temple of the Sacred

Tooth Relic, it remains a place of pilgrimage for

believers from across the island and around the

world. All Sri Lankan Buddhists make a journey

to the temple at least once in their lifetime.

Subject to being dressed appropriately, all are

welcome to join the hundreds of devotees who visit

the temple daily, either in the early morning or

evening, to walk through to the inner sanctum

where the sacred relic is venerated, encased in

seven gold caskets, each bedecked with precious

gems. https://sridaladamaligawa.lk


103

Buddhist monks in Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens

THE STOICISM THAT ENABLED THE

Kandyan Kingdom to maintain its grip on

power and separateness from the encroaching

Portuguese, continued throughout the

establishment of Dutch Ceylon, and then into the

early years of British colonialisation.

Whilst the British ended more than 2,500

years of sovereignty in Sri Lanka in 1815, when

the Kandyan Kingdom finally ceded, Kandy

is still proudly recognised as the cultural and

historical centre of the island. Much of the art,

history and culture unique to this community

has survived, in contrast to other areas where

many endemic traditions were subdued or lost,

owing to the hundreds of years of dominion by the

Portuguese, Dutch, and British.

NOWHERE IS THIS PRIDE MORE EVIDENT

than during the annual Kandy Esala Perahera,

also known as The Festival of the Tooth, which

is held in Kandy at around the time of the Esala

Full Moon Poya, usually at the end of July. A

significant holiday celebrated in Sri Lanka on

the full moon in the eighth lunar month, Esala is

one of the twelve full moon or Poya days, that are

considered auspicious by Sri Lankan Buddhists.

All twelve are public holidays.

The Esala Full Moon Poya commemorates

the day that Buddha delivered his first sermon

at the deer park of Isipathana, and perahera

processions take place all around Sri Lanka on

this day. But the biggest celebrations, by far, are

in Kandy, where pomp, pageantry and artistry

joyfully collide with customs, religion and ancient

traditions, and the casket carrying the sacred

tooth relic plays an integral role. The festivities

involve elaborately costumed dancers, musicians

beating traditional drums and blowing trumpets,

decorated elephants and fire eaters, and masked

characters portraying stories that have been retold

for centuries. If you are in Kandy at this time of the

year, be sure to secure tickets and revel in the this

colourful and energetic festival that continues for

many days. https://kandyesalaperahera.com

AT ANY TIME OF THE YEAR, ONE CAN

learn more about the culture and traditions of this

important area of Sri Lanka by visiting the Kandy


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Follow us.

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SPOTLIGHT

KANDY

Museum, which is housed within a section of the

former Royal Palace. Nearby, under the auspices of

Sri Dalada Maligawa, the International Buddhist

Museum offers a unique insight into Buddhism

throughout Asia and the rest of the world.

TIME SPENT IN KANDY IS NOT COMPLETE

without an unhurried wander through the city's

original "old town" heart. Here, old and new stand

side by side and some fine examples of British

colonial architecture, such as the Post Office and

the Town Hall, standout amongst the organised

mayhem. If you have time, pause for a beverage

at the Queen’s Hotel. Formerly a governor’s

residence, it is today one of Sri Lanka's longest

running hotels and something of a landmark.

Within its portals, Victorian architecture

delightfully intersects with South Asian traditions

and Sri Lankan hospitality. https://queenshotel.lk

THE TEMPLE OF THE SACRED TOOTH

Relic may be considered the most important

temple, but it is not the only one worth visiting

in this culturally rich region. From the nearby

hamlet of Bahirawa Kanda, a 27-metre Buddha,

seated in the Nirvana pose, overlooks the former

royal city and surround areas. One of the tallest

Buddha statues in Sri Lanka, it is part of the Sri

Maha Bodhi Viharaya temple, which was built

in 1972 on an ancient site dedicated to the deity

known as Bhairava. It is believed that animal

sacrifices, and possibly human sacrifices also,

were made here for the protection against evil.

SLIGHTLY FURTHER AFIELD ARE THREE

smaller but significant temples, often referred

to as the "Three Temple Loop". The temples of

Embekka, Lankathilaka and Gadaladenyia

were built in the 14th century, before the

establishment of the Kandyan empire. The

seven kilometretrail between the three,

meanders through small villages and paddy

fields. These places of worship bear witness

to Sri Lankan heritage and craftsmanship.

Embekka is recognised for its intricately

carved wooden pillars and features, whilst

Lankathilaka boasts a powerful presence from

Panhalgala, the rock upon which it is built.


Sri Maha Bodhi Viharaya

Tower Square

Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic or Sri Dalada Maligawa


107

SPOTLIGHT

KANDY

perahera festivities

involve elaborately

costumed dancers,

musicians beating

traditional drums

and blowing

trumpets, and

masked characters

portraying stories

that have been

retold for centuries


Kandyan dancers

IMAGES BY CAROLYN MCKAY


109

SPOTLIGHT

KANDY

And nearby Gadaladeniya, built in 1344,

reflects a harmonious blend of Buddhist and

Hindu traditions and practices. When refuge

is needed from the city's hustle and bustle, and

its kaleidoscope of old and new, do as the locals

do and retire to the cooler climes of the nearby

hills!

NOT FAR TO THE SOUTHWEST, THE

shaded avenues of the Peradeniya Royal

Botanical Gardens encourage slow strolls

enveloped by a colourful array of tropical flora

and fauna and intoxicating scents. With more

than 4,000 species across the 62-hectare site,

and renowned for its stunning collection of

orchids, the gardens were formally established

in 1821 under British rule, although the area

had previously been used as a royal garden, as

well as a temporary royal residence during the

Kandyan Kingdom.

FOR THOSE SEEKING A LITTLE MORE

adventure, in the opposite direction lies the

Knuckles Mountain Range with its distinctly

shaped peaks. Camping and trekking

opportunities abound in this area rich with

biodiversity. In between the peaks, seemingly

at every turn in the road, there are numerous

tea plantations, many of which originate from

the mid-1860s when a Scottish tea planter,

James Taylor, introduced the industry of tea

farming to British Ceylon. Today, Sri Lanka

is one of the world’s largest exporters of tea.

Estates welcome visitors for tours, which

highlight the labour intensive and timeconsuming

process, from hand-plucking bushes

all the way through to the ancient machinery

still used to wither, roll, and dry. A good cup

of Sri Lankan tea is the perfect way to end a

plantation tour.

AWAY FROM THE BEACHES AND PALM

trees often associated with Sri Lanka, the

city of Kandy, along with its surrounding

former kingdom, genuinely inspires wonder,

exploration, and respect. And the significant

role Kandy plays in the preservation of the

island's culture and ancient traditions is

evident at every turn. A charming blend of

old and new, filled with friendly people

brimming with pride and tenacity, it's well

worth setting aside 48-hours to

explore Kandy, when visiting the

resplendent isle of Sri Lanka.


away from the beaches and palm trees

often associated with sri lanka, the city

of kandy, along with its surrounding

former kingdom, genuinely inspires

wonder, exploration, and respect


111

Bar, Restaurant

& Club Privé

L’ESCARGOT

Est. 1927

Tuesday - Sunday:

All day until 1am

48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF. T: 020 7439 7474 W: Lescargot.co.uk

IN A CITY OF HUNDREDS OF

EATERIES, THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER REVIEWS A STANDOUT

RIVIERA-STYLE RESTAURANT IN

DUBAI, BORN FROM THE DEDICATION

OF A RESTAURATEUR WITH DECADES

OF HOSPITALITY EXPERIENCE;

VISITS THE NEW COLOMBO LOCATION

OF SRI LANKA'S FINEST JAPANESE

RESTAURANT, AND KICKS BACK IN A

MASTERCHEF FINLAND JUDGE’S NEW

FRENCH BISTRO IN HELSINKI

BUNGALO34

➤ DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

NIHONBASHI

➤ COLOMBO, SRI LANKA

CAFÉ SAVOY

➤ HELSINKI, FINLAND

Bungalo34, Dubai, UAE

REVIEW

IN A WATERSIDE LOCATION OVERLOOKING THE ARABIAN GULF,

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU IS BLOWN AWAY BY AN INDIVIDUAL

RIVIERA-STYLE RESTAURANT THAT IMPRESSES WAY BEYOND ANY

PREVIOUS DINING EXPERIENCE IN DUBAI

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JULIET DUNNE

BUNGALO34

➤ DUBAI, UNITED ARAB

EMIRATES

FOOD

ATMOSPHERE

THE ENTREPRENEURIAL WOMAN

behind some of South Africa's and

the United Arab Emirates' most

successful culinary ventures, is a

testament to the power of passion and

the influence of cultural heritage.

Born in South Africa to Greek

parents, Natasha Sideris' early life

was shaped by an artistic mother, a

strong sense of family, and a rich,

multifaceted culture. Her Greek

roots, with their deep connection to

hospitality and food, alongside her

South African upbringing, gave her

a unique lens through which to view

the world, and created a somewhat

maverick young businesswoman

who was driven and determined.

And growing up in the restaurant

business, by the side of a father who


TASTE & SIP

REVIEW

was a qualified chef and successful

restaurateur, surrounded by a

fusion of traditions and her family’s

kitchen serving as a centre for both

community and creativity, became the

pillars upon which Sideris' remarkable

success was built.

THOUGH SIDERIS STUDIED

psychology and sociology at university,

her passion for hospitality was already

ingrained, and it wasn't long before

she opened her first eponymous eatery.

Reputedly established with money

borrowed from a loan shark, the

first Tashas café opened in 2005, in

the neighbourhood shopping centre

of Atholl Square in Johannesburg.

Intended to be a sole business which

would finance her ongoing studies,

everything changed when the café was

Natasha Sideris

a "rip-roaring success" with queues

round the block, and friends had to

help serve some 1,000 customers per

day. The rest, as they say, is history.

Almost two decades later, there are

15 Tashas locations in South Africa.

And towards the end of last year,

Sideris premiered the first UK outpost

of Tashas, which sits across from

Battersea Power Station's main mall,

and has already become a go-to place

for locals, brunching families, and

ladies who casually lunch.

AFTER CHOOSING THE MIDDLE

East for the brand's first overseas

expansion outside of South Africa,

Sideris relocated to Dubai, which had

become a metropolitan melting pot

of cultures, complete with a vibrant

and very much burgeoning restaurant

scene. With a keen sense of business,

a great deal of ambition, and an

understanding of what Dubai’s everevolving

culinary landscape needed,

the first Tashas in Dubai embodied

the kind of informal sophistication

that has come to define modern dining

in the region. Its success led to six

locations in the UAE, with Sideris

becoming one of the Emirates' most

notable restaurateurs, strengthened

by a reputation for treating staff

exceptionally well in a country that

sometimes does not. Indeed, I discover

that during the Covid pandemic, all

Tashas staff were paid before any

partners or execs took money out of

the business.

YET, SIDERIS' JOURNEY TO

becoming the culinary success she is

today was not without its challenges,

not only facing the typical hurdles

Bungalo34 Spritz 115

Amalfi Lemon Pasta

of entrepreneurship, but also the

particularities of building a brand

in a city like Dubai, where taste and

trends shift very rapidly. Despite such

obstacles, Sideris' ability to fuse the old

with the new – drawing from multiple

culinary traditions while embracing

modern influences – have allowed her

to create spaces that resonate with a

diverse clientele. Her personal touch is

evident in every restaurant, where the

balance between the contemporary and

the traditional feels natural.

AS IS USUALLY THE CASE WITH

a successful entrepreneur, as Sideris'

success has grown, so have her

ambitions. And when everything is

ticking along nicely, one tends to be more

creative, and has the luxury of being

able to lavish attention on a passion

project. For Sideris, this creativity

has manifested itself in Bungalo34

- a stand-alone boutique, bar, and

restaurant housed within Nikki Beach

Resort on Pearl Jumeira, which is

brimming with gorgeous attention to

detail and reflects her experiences,

travels, and heritage, together with her

unique vision for hospitality in Dubai.

Indeed, Bungalo34 is perhaps the most

personal venue that Sideris has created

to date and I feel this the moment I

arrive, leaving the city behind and

entering a warm, welcoming, and

cosseting world of Sideris' making. As

I sit at the bar and order a Bungalo34

Spritz, I'm quietly impressed that

such an individual place exists in the

UAE, and my plan to stay for just a

few hours soon goes out the window.

THE NAME BUNGALO34 ITSELF

holds a personal connection to

Sideris’ own life. It is attributed to

the number of a secluded bungalow

at the Astir Palace hotel in the

seaside town of Vouliagmeni, along

the Athens Riviera, a place Sideris

has visited year after year for two

decades. Dating back more than 60

years to when the hotel first opened,

the warm and familiar atmosphere of

the bungalow is something of a refuge

and a sanctuary, offering her the kind

of peace and reflection that inspired

the creation of the restaurant. A place

where she enjoys genuinely relaxed

downtime with friends and family

and elicits a wealth of wonderful

memories, the bungalow has come to

represent a special place of comfort,

tranquillity, and personal significance

in Sideris’ life, and remains a calm

constant in her otherwise fast-paced

lifestyle.


TASTE & SIP

REVIEW

I also just catch the sun setting over

the Arabian Gulf’s blue waters, before

friends join me for the meal.

TO A BACKDROP OF FUNKY,

soulful music that literally makes

my toes tap but doesn't intrude

on the conversation, delivered by

an unassuming DJ who presides

over the restaurant from a modest

booth, what unfolds is a meal

which is as delicious and hearty

as it is passionately presented

and intentionally unfussy. This is

good, wholesome fare, executed to

perfection and served by a team

of staff who obviously love what

they do and take pride in making

guests happy. Before long, the room

is alive with happy people (on a

Tuesday night), and we purposely

slow down the proceedings to revel in

the palpably positive atmosphere, and

enjoy each other's company and the

unique space in which we are eating.

AMONGST THE MANY DISHES

we sample, it is the ones fashioned

from the simplest yet freshest of

ingredients that most impress. A

creamy lemon pasta inspired by Italy's

Amalfi coast, served on beautiful

handmade crockery, is incredibly

moreish and epitomises Bungalo34's

culinary formula of simple food,

prepared well, with passion.

ONCE I MEET THE LADY, IT IS

apparent that Bungalo34 is a natural

extension of Sideris and her philosophy.

The main dining room particularly,

divided into two levels by a few

steps, feels intimate yet undeniably

stylish, and its walls are hung with

works which have obviously been

hand-picked by someone with good,

eclectic taste. I'm drawn to a number

of the pieces and enjoy some private

time, before dinner service begins, to

view and appreciate the collection of

paintings, sculpture and art pieces

that have been lovingly brought

together at Bungalo34. Courtesy of

the restaurant's waterfront position,

Whole Baked Seabass

TASTE & SIP

REVIEW

BUNGALO34

FOOD

ATMOSPHERE

CULINARY DIRECTOR: Jill Lee Okkers

HEAD CHEF: Conor Dirks

ADDRESS: Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai,

Pearl Jumeira, Dubai, UAE

TELEPHONE: +971 4 238 1780

EMAIL: info@bungalo34.com

WEBSITE:

www.bungalo34.com

A signature dish of grilled tiger prawns

finished in a spicy buttery sauce,

tinted with lemon and garnished with

shoestring fries, is demolished tout de

suite. While a whole seabass, taken

from the restaurant's beautiful display

of fresh fish and crustaceans that

we pass on the way in, having been

slowly and gently baked in the oven, is

lingered over more longingly. Despite

being almost full, it is impossible not

to pick at the tender fish, delicately

flavoured with baby roasted tomatoes,

shallots, chilli and herbs, until there

is nothing left but bones. Somehow, we

find space for a delectable chocolate

mousse, served in a huge conch-like

dish with sides of bite-sized cookies

and luscious caramel sauce, and a

Banana Split that would put a smile on

Chocolate Mousse

anyone's face, theatrically drizzled with

sauce tableside.

AN EXCEEDINGLY SPECIAL

place, particularly for the Middle

East, to visit Bungalo34 isn't to

simply have a "dining experience".

On the contrary, sitting down at

Bungalo34 is to immediately feel

like you belong, feast on good food,

relish conversation between friends

and enjoy time out from day-to-day life,

whilst being surrounded by visually

enjoyable, unpretentious and uplifting

surroundings. I depart feeling happy,

utterly contented and satiated in every

way, and cannot wait for my next visit

to what feels like an extension

of Natasha Sideris’ own,

inviting home.

CUISINE: Mediterranean

OPENING HOURS:

Monday - Friday 12:00 - midnight

Weekends 9:00 - midnight

LUNCH: Warm Salmon Carpaccio AED 136;

Amalfi Lemon AED 88; Exotic Baba AED 64

DINNER: Tuna Tartare AED 88; Veal Limone

AED 168; Tiramisu AED 72

IDEAL MEAL: Carpaccio Cacio E Pepe

AED 196; Prawn Bazaruto AED 260;

Chocolate Mousse AED 56

RESERVATIONS: Essential

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

CHILDREN: High chairs available

CREDIT CARDS: All major except Amex

PARKING: Complimentary valet

TCT REVIEWER:

Nicholas Chrisostomou for dinner

Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s

feedback about the food and service and,

separately, the atmosphere in the dining room


ESTABLISHED SINCE 1995,


VISITS THE NEW COLOMBO

LOCATION OF THE FIRST SRI

LANKAN RESTAURANT TO

MAKE IT ONTO THE COVETED

ASIA'S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS

LIST, AND REMAIN THERE

FOR SIX YEARS

Dharshan Munidasa

NEWCOMER

NIHONBASHI

COLOMBO, SRI LANKA

DHARSHAN

Munidasa’s journey

is a masterclass in

passion, precision, and cultural harmony.

With a Sri Lankan father and a Japanese

mother, Munidasa’s heritage is as rich as

his culinary vision. Growing up in

Colombo and Tokyo, he was influenced

by the flavours and cooking traditions of

both cultures. However, his interest in

the culinary arts truly emerged during

his university years in the United

States, where he taught himself to cook

in the absence of familiar flavours. This

self-guided education would later

become the foundation of an

extraordinary career, one that has not

only transformed the dining landscape

of Sri Lanka, but has also gained him

international acclaim.


119

IN 1995, AT JUST 24 YEARS OLD,

Munidasa opened his first restaurant,

Nihonbashi, in Colombo. His mission was

to bring authentic Japanese cuisine to Sri

Lanka, rooted in his deep appreciation

for his mother’s culture. Nihonbashi

was groundbreaking at the time, offering

traditional Japanese dishes that celebrated

the purity and simplicity of Japanese

culinary philosophy. Sourcing ingredients

directly from Japan and embracing timehonoured

techniques, Munidasa established

Nihonbashi as a place of dedication and

respect for Japanese dining. His efforts

introduced Sri Lankans to the artistry of

sushi, sashimi, and tempura, all meticulously

crafted with an unwavering commitment to

quality. The restaurant became a sensation,

and Munidasa quickly gained a reputation as

one of Sri Lanka’s most talented chefs.

MUNIDASA’S AMBITIONS

extended beyond Japanese cuisine. In

2011, he co-founded Ministry of Crab with

two of Sri Lanka’s cricketing legends,

Mahela Jayawardene and Kumar

Sangakkara, this time with a focus on

showcasing Sri Lanka’s seafood treasures,

especially its legendary lagoon crabs.

Ministry of Crab was as much an homage

to Sri Lanka’s natural bounty as it was

a bold statement about the country’s

place on the culinary map. Featuring

dishes like garlic chilli crab and pepper

crab, Munidasa’s creations spotlighted

local ingredients in their most authentic

form, seasoned only as necessary to

amplify their natural flavours. Within

a short time, the restaurant earned a

place on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list,

drawing diners from around the world

and cementing Munidasa’s position as Sri

Lanka’s most celebrated chef.

MUNIDASA’S VISION CONTINUED

to expand, taking him beyond Sri

Lanka’s shores. Recognising the

potential to bring his distinctive style of

cooking to an international audience, he

opened Ministry of Crab locations across

Asia, with outposts in India, Maldives,

Singapore, Thailand, and China. Each of

these restaurants embodies Munidasa’s

philosophy of respecting ingredients and

honouring local culinary traditions while

maintaining his meticulous standards.

These overseas ventures showcase not

only the beauty of Sri Lankan crabs,

but also Munidasa’s ability to adapt and

innovate, bringing his unique approach

to diverse culinary landscapes. His

Chikurin Room at Nihonbashi, Colombo

TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

ingredients, emphasising minimal

intervention and showcasing meat

in its most authentic form.

Sashimi Moriawase

work overseas has played a pivotal role in

introducing global diners to the flavours

of Sri Lanka, reinforcing his status as a

true culinary ambassador.

IN ADDITION TO NIHONBASHI

and Ministry of Crab, the opening of a

Carne Diem Grill restaurant marked a

bold step into the world of fine meats,

offering a unique approach to grilling,

with a focus on high-quality cuts and

carefully sourced ingredients. Like

his other establishments, Carne Diem

Grill celebrates the essence of the

THROUGHOUT HIS CAREER,

Munidasa has remained dedicated to

showcasing the integrity of ingredients,

whether through Japanese precision, Sri

Lankan spices, or a carefully balanced

fusion of the two. He has built a reputation

as a perfectionist, a chef who treats

cooking as both science and art. With

every restaurant, Munidasa curates not

just a menu but a cultural experience,

inviting diners to appreciate the nuances

of taste, texture, and tradition. His

influence now extends far beyond Sri

Lanka, shaping perceptions of Sri Lankan

cuisine and redefining the standards of

fine dining within and outside the country.

IN MAY 2024, MUNIDASA RETURNED

to his culinary roots with the re-opening

of Nihonbashi in a contemporary new

location at the entrance to Colombo’s

Port City area. Set against an entirely

different backdrop than its predecessor,

and visible from the capital's main coast

road, the new restaurant is a fittingly

modern update that speaks to honouring

the legacy of the original Nihonbashi,

while symbolising the journey of a chef

who has spent nearly three decades

reshaping the way food is experienced in

Sri Lanka and across Asia.


121

TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

PERHAPS UNSURPRISINGLY FOR

the first restaurant in Sri Lanka to ever

feature on Asia’s 50 Best list (where it

remained for six consecutive years), and one

that procures the finest tuna, crabs

and shrimp, the top notch food at

Nihonbashi has always been a masterful

blend of Japanese tradition and

meticulous artistry, each dish reflecting

Munidasa’s commitment to authenticity,

focusing on purity of flavour and the

highest quality ingredients.

IN NIHONBASHI'S NEW INCARNATION,

as a chef might perhaps forage for unusual

local ingredients, Munidasa walked

the quarries of Sri Lanka to find the

perfect materials for the restaurant's

bar, Yakitori counters, and private

dining rooms, uniquely utilising these

first before completing the restaurant's

design around them. They include giant

boulders upon which the bar rests, and

the towering bamboo seen throughout.

After passing through a lane of vermilion

torii gates, which straddle the restaurant's

entrance, the overall effect of Munidasa's

personalised input is inviting and warm,

much like the man himself, and gestures

diners to relax and unwind soon after

arriving. This I find out first hand, on a

Saturday evening in November, when I

perch myself on a stool at a high-top table

infront of the bar, where I remain quite

happily for hours, while sampling dishes

and sipping French wine in the company

of the charismatic chef-patron. Nihonbashi

mark two is an outwardly relaxed and

comfortable place to spend an evening

and happily devoid of airs and graces,

which cannot be said for many high-end

Japanese restaurants.

WHAT I PARTICULARLY ENJOY

about the food at Nihonbashi, is the

manner in which Munidasa both precisely

celebrates Japanese gastronomy and

creatively incorporates flavours unique

to Sri Lanka in his dishes. My favourites

of the night are a time-honoured Tai

Chazuke dish, dating back three centuries

to the town of Kitsuki in Japan's Oita

prefecture, which is traditionally

made with sea bream on rice with tea.

Munidasa's interpretation sees delicate

slices of sea bream sashimi placed atop

Gyuu No Tataki

a mound of Japanese rice and topped with

an egg yolk. Sizzling olive oil and garlic,

theatrically heated table-side in-front of

me (the aroma of which is itself somewhat

intoxicating) is then poured over the

top, lightly cooking the fish and the egg.

Breaking the yolk and glazing the fish add

a creamy and rich texture to the dish. The

range of flavours I taste are extraordinary

for such a humble collection of ingredients.

The other standout dish is a crab shell

filled with hand-picked Sri Lankan mud

crab meat, topped with a panko crust and

deep-fried. The creamy result is a divine

marriage of sweet and savoury. The dish is

served with homemade tartar sauce on the

side, but for me, needs no such

embellishment, and is simply perfect as is.

WHATEVER YOU EAT AT

Nihonbashi, whether it be a relatively

simple hot tempura prawn and cold wasabi

mayo rice wrap, known as Ten Sabi

Temaki, or a soup-less spicy prawn ramen,

minus the hot broth to deal with in the Sri

Lankan heat, you can be sure that it has

been fashioned from the freshest and most

high-quality ingredients available, and

prepared with care, honestly, and

love. These are the hallmarks of Dharshan

Munidasa's culinary career and the

same qualities are evident in his new

Colombo Nihonbashi restaurant, which

is ingrained in Japanese tradition and

infused with genuine

Sri Lankan hospitality.

www.nihonbashi.lk

122

Spicy Prawn Soupless Ramen

Olive Oil Kake Tai Cha

NEWCOM

SET IN THE HEART OF THE UBER-COOL FINNISH CAPITAL, WHICH IS TODAY HOME

TO AN ARRAY OF TOP NOTCH RESTAURANTS, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

DINES AT MASTERCHEF FINLAND JUDGE AND ESTABLISHED CHEF-PATRON,

HELENA PUOLAKKA'S NEWEST EATERY

CAFÉ SAVOY

HELSINKI, FINLAND

WITH ITS SPRAWLING

forests, pure lakes, and

ethereal Northern

Lights, many of Finland's culinary

offerings are as captivating as its

breathtaking landscapes. Its food

culture draws deeply from an enduring

relationship with nature and the

seasons, celebrating ingredients at

their freshest. The Finnish people’s

respect for traditional methods and the

wilderness’s bounty melds seamlessly with

a progressive, forward-thinking approach

to food. As a result, in recent years, the

country has experienced a culinary

renaissance that is transforming local

fare from simple staples into a vibrant

gastronomic tapestry, routinely enticing

gourmands from across the planet,

including me!


HELSINKI STANDS AT THE

centre of this evolution, championing

a sophisticated, contemporary

restaurant scene while honouring

Finnish roots. Over the past two

decades, the city has seen an influx of

innovative restaurants that balance

finesse with authenticity, and chefs

who’ve drawn inspiration from the

land around them. Diners in

Helsinki are now as likely to find

dishes crafted from foraged berries,

game, and Baltic fish, as they are to

encounter more global influences, all

tied together with a uniquely Finnish

sensibility. Yet amidst this dynamic

food scene, it’s difficult to overlook the

impact of one particular culinary

figure: Helena Puolakka.

ER

PUOLAKKA’S NAME HAS ALMOST

become synonymous with Finnish

fine dining, although her influence

extends well beyond Finland’s

borders. After training in some of the

finest kitchens in France and the UK,

including those of Pierre Koffman

and Pierre Gagnaire, Puolakka

brought home her expertise and

passion for showcasing natural

ingredients, fusing classical

techniques with Nordic flavours in a

way that feels both reverent and

revolutionary. Her contributions have

invigorated Helsinki’s culinary

offerings, drawing numerous

accolades and inspiring a generation

of chefs to approach Finnish cuisine

with fresh eyes.

IMAGE: ANTON-SUCKSDORFF

ONE OF PUOLAKKA’S CROWNING

achievements is her role as chef-patron

of Savoy, one of Helsinki’s most

renowned restaurants, having served

guests for more than 85 years.

Occupying the top two floors of a

landmark 1930s building overlooking

Esplanade Park, Savoy boasts original

heritage interiors and furniture by

Aino and Alvar Aalto, which are

protected by Helsinki City Museum.

Under Puolakka’s guidance, Savoy

continues to celebrate its storied past

while embracing modernity. Every dish

is exquisitely crafted with precision,

Salad Niçoise


125

TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

honouring Finland’s heritage

ingredients. Think reindeer, perch, and

wild mushrooms, reinterpreted with

a lightness and finesse that reflect

Puolakka’s classical training. Her

influence has completely reinvigorated

the restaurant, striking a careful

balance between preserving Savoy’s

essence and incorporating a

contemporary twist. Yet, Puolakka’s

vision goes beyond maintaining Finnish

culinary institutions..

IN NOVEMBER 2022, PUOLAKKA

unveiled Café Savoy, on the ground floor,

street level of the same historic building

which is crowned by Savoy restaurant.

A study in understated elegance, walled

on two sides by windows which invite the

city into the restaurant, the space feels at

once urbane and unpretentious. Inspired

by a beach towel, the mustard, white,

and green mosaic striped floor at the

entrance gestures diners to come in

towards a 1920s farmhouse table that

serves as a reception desk. A large open

kitchen is very much part of the dining

room and is set as a stage for chefs to

shine. Everything cooking is very much

on show and this immediately puts me at

ease. Whilst a large space, the simplicity

of the restaurant's layout is refreshing.

I grab a stool at the bar, order a G&T,

and peruse the menu while waiting for

friends to arrive.

DESIGNED BY ACCLAIMED STUDIO

Joanna Laajisto, the restaurant's

interior exudes the warmth of a

welcoming living room, thoughtfully

conceived as a gathering place for locals

and visitors alike. The design merges

Scandinavian simplicity with a

cosmopolitan flair. Wood panelled walls

contrasting with oak flooring and sofas

upholstered in a restrained yet gorgeous

custom Annala wool fabric anchor the

space in a sense of tactile comfort,

while the large windows flood the room

with light, deftly connecting diners to

the city beyond. Vintage-inspired

lighting fixtures, mid-century seating,

and artfully arranged greenery create

an atmosphere that is both convivial

and intimate.

THE INTENTION HERE IS CLEAR:

to establish a “default destination", a

reliable culinary home-away-from-home

that hums with relaxed yet vibrant

energy. Chef-patron Puolakka oversees

the restaurant’s operation and vision,

bringing her finesse and sensibilities to

bear on its identity. The kitchen,

however, is the domain of chef Matias

Poutiainen, who cooked upstairs for 12

years before taking the culinary reigns

of Café Savoy. His experience and

dedication to detail ensures that every

plate reflects Café Savoy’s philosophy of

refined simplicity.

WHEN I MEET FRIENDLY SOMMELIER

Heidi Reis, who is openly passionate

about anything and everything related

to food and wine, I am immediately

impressed by her knowledge of different

wine regions, realise that we are in good

hands, and settle into the meal ahead,

which I soon discover pays homage to the

flavours of southern France.

I kick-off with a classic Salad Niçoise,

laden with rich olive oil-soaked Ortiz

tuna, accompanied by an excellent dry

Langhe Bianco Sto Fuori Italian white.

Hailing from Barolo, made from

Timorasso grapes, and brimming with

fruity and floral nuances, the wine is an

excellent match for the salad, which is

itself perfect in every way.

Matias Poutiainen and Helena Puolakka

126

Slow cooked lamb shoulder from Sisteron, creamy polenta, capers

IMAGE: MIKKO RYHÄNEN

IMAGE: MIKKO RYHÄNEN

The delicious Pâté en Croûte which

follows is encased in a generous,

beautifully golden pastry crust. Again,

the dish cannot be faulted. This is

timeless, simple French cuisine,

impeccably executed. And the modest

French Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame

Cabernet Franc red served with it, from

the mid-Loire, doesn't overpower the

flavourful, meaty pâté.

The meal continues in the same

accomplished vain, and is akin to

dining at a refined and reliable,

long-established Parisian bistro.

Everyone at the table is relaxed, happy,

satiated, and impressed. My lobster

linguine main course is particularly

special. And we even have a little room left

to share a dessert.

A FLAWLESS AND RELAXED

experience from start to finish, which

expertly honours the south of France's

culinary heritage, to dine at Café

Savoy is to gather with friends in

comfortable surrounds and enjoy the

simple pleasures of socialising, eating

excellent food, sipping fine wines, and

letting the conversation flow.

I will surely be back.

https://cafesavoy.fi/en


127

You have been an

incredibly successful

hairdresser for decades

– what keeps you going and drives you

day-to-day?

I’m inspired by the power of transformation

and the joy of bringing out someone’s

natural beauty via their hair. I’ve always

believed in creating elegance without

complication, and that belief keeps my drive

alive, as does meeting people from around

the world, understanding their needs, and

creating beauty that feels unique to them.

As a child, what were your interests?

I loved art, architecture, and nature –

essentially anything that allowed me

to create and connect with beauty. I

was always drawn to details and loved

observing people, their gestures, and their

unique ways of expressing themselves. I

actually wanted to become an architect,

but hairdressing captured my heart and

allowed my creativity to flourish early-on.

5

MINUTES

WITH

rossano

ferretti

SOMETHING OF AN ARCHITECT OF BESPOKE HAIR

ELEGANCE, WITH A GLOBAL EMPIRE OF HAIR

SPA SALONS AND A LIFELONG COMMITMENT TO

HIS CRAFT, HAIRDRESSER ROSSANO FERRETTI

CHATS TO THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT

HIS REVOLUTIONARY ‘METHOD’ HAIRCUT AND

TRANSFORMING HAIRDRESSING INTO AN ART FORM

Tell us about growing up in the small Italian

village of Campegine?

Simple. I sometimes I felt out of place, since

everyone wanted to stay there, while I

wanted to explore the world. Growing up

in such a small village taught me to value

people, traditions, and the art of genuine

connection. My family was incredibly

close and I grew up watching my mother

and grandfather create beautiful hair in

their small, two-chair village salon. That

instilled in me a deep respect for the craft,

that remains with me to this day.

Where did you learn about hairdressing?

My family were my first teachers but I

knew that I wanted to go further. So, I

saved everything I could and eventually

made my way to London to study formally.

What was London like in the 1970s for a

15-year-old from an Italian village?

Bursting with life, colour, and new

ideas, London was both thrilling and

overwhelming. And coming from a small

Italian village, it felt like a completely

different, fascinating world to me. I threw

myself into the city, eager to absorb

everything, from the people to the culture.

The experience opened my mind and

creativity.


INTERVIEW

Were you daunted at all?

There were moments of doubt, of course, for

I was young and far from home. But I was

also very determined. I saw every challenge

as an opportunity, and the city’s energy

kept me going, even when things got tough.

As a young hairdresser, who did you look

up to and admire?

People like Vidal Sassoon, who helped

shape the hairdressing industry, inspired

me deeply. But beyond famous names, I

was inspired by anyone who approached

hair, beauty, fashion and design with

passion and creativity. Many times, I

have also been inspired by great chefs,

since I love food and the concept of putting

different ingredients together to create

unique dishes.

Your lifetime goal as a hairdresser?

To change the way people see themselves

and to elevate hairdressing to an art

form. I want people to feel empowered

and authentically beautiful, and I want to

inspire future generations of hairdressers

to think outside the box.

You are renowned for abandoning geometry

in your haircutting techniques and cutting

and styling based on true suitability. What

brought this about?

For me, hair should enhance one’s natural

beauty, not follow strict rules, and I

realised early in my career that traditional

techniques didn’t consider an individual’s

unique features and personality. By

Park Hyatt Vienna Hotel

developing the Ferretti Metodo Cut,

together with my sister Lorenza, we found

a way to cut hair that moves effortlessly

and complements each person’s face and

lifestyle. It’s about creating harmony rather

than fitting into a mold. Today, our method

is referred to as the 'Invisible Cut'.

When did you first charge GBP 1,500

for a haircut?

15 years ago, as my reputation was growing

around the world. I think is important

to understand that cutting hair is an art

and when done well can be a life changing

experience. Hair is a way that people can

express who they are and who they

want to be and as such can be priceless to

some people, like paying a large sum for a

bottle of wine, a Michelin-starred meal, or

the best seats at a sporting event or concert.

I have not cut hair commercially for a very

long time now, although I am often asked,

and the sums offered today far exceed those

of 15 years ago! Today however, my goal is

to support, educate and inspire.

Do you find incredible hairdressing talent

via your TV competitions?

There’s so much talent out there, and I’m

all for creating platforms for new stylists to

showcase their skills. I’m always inspired

by the passion and creativity I see, and it’s

incredible to be able to mentor and guide

the next generations.

You now have more than 20 Hair Spas

around the world, many of which are in

hotels, such as your new salon at the Park

Hyatt Vienna. What makes them different?

They are designed to offer an experience,

not just a service. We combine luxurious

care with a serene and private

environment. Every visit is tailored to the

client’s needs, and it’s not just about the

hair – it’s about feeling relaxed, beautiful, and

rejuvenated. Our Hair Spas in luxury hotels,

such as our salon at the beautiful Park Hyatt

Vienna, blend hospitality with the art of

hairdressing. parkhyattvienna.com

When you are not working, where and

how do you relax?

I love spending time with my family and

being in nature. I especially enjoy being

by the sea because there’s something

incredibly calming about the sound of

waves. I also enjoy cooking – it’s a creative

outlet that allows me to express myself

in a different way, away from

the world of hair.

www.rossanoferretti.com


129

2024 CHRISTMAS

GIFT COLLECTION

WITH SO MUCH CHOICE ON THE HIGH STREET

AND ONLINE, NOT TO MENTION SOCIAL

MEDIA BOMBARDING US WITH ADS, IT'S

NOT AS EASY THESE DAYS, AS ONE WOULD

IMAGINE, TO FIND THE RIGHT CHRISTMAS

GIFTS. THANKFULLY, ADRIAN GIBSON HAS

BEEN SCOURING THE MARKETPLACE TO HELP

RELIEVE YOUR STRESS! SO, WHETHER YOU'RE

SHOPPING FOR A FASHIONISTA, FOODIE, A

HOMEBODY OR AN ART AFICIONADO, THERE'S

SOMETHING FOR PRETTY MUCH EVERYONE IN

THIS CURATED ROUND-UP

ZANDRA RHODES

X CELIA B

MARYANN DRESS

THE ZANDRA RHODES X CELIA B

Maryann Dress is the perfect festive gift

for a fashionista who loves expressing

themselves with colour and print.

Designed by the veritable British queen

of colourful prints, Dame Zandra Rhodes,

in collaboration with celebrated Spanish

designer, Celia B, this striking shirt dress

is guaranteed to bring joy and brighten

eyes. And with its daisy print in a rainbow

of colours, it can be worn all year round to

make a dramatic fashion statement.

GBP 299

https://celiab.com

130

SHOPPING

ROYAL

COLLECTION

TREE

DECORATION

INSPIRED BY THE

Household Troops, who

have been guarding the

British Sovereign since

1660, your Christmas tree this year

can be as well guarded, by this

cute, hand-crafted felt guardsman

decoration, dressed in full

ceremonial uniform, complete with

a tiny red coat, a bearskin hat, and

gold brocade detailing. He is even

patriotically holding a celebratory

Union Flag! GBP 16

www.royalcollectionshop.co.uk

NEPTUNE

ISLINGTON

BISTRO GLASSES

BACK IN 1996, TWO BEST FRIENDS DECIDED

to go into business together, selling

hammocks, of all things, In the first year, they

sold more than 5,000. 28 years later and they

have more than 30 Neptune stores in the UK

and Europe. The brilliant clarity, glamorous

silhouette, and weighty feel of these Islington

glasses make them the perfect choice for

special get-togethers. Mouthblown in Poland

by artisans, each glass is finished with an

optic twist that beautifully catches and

reflects the light.

GBP 45 for two glasses

www.neptune.com


131

SHOPPING

STERLING EFFORTS

FEATHER PENDANT

HUSBAND AND WIFE TEAM, ROBB AND JESS WALLES, PRIDE THEMSELVES

on lovingly handcrafting sterling silver jewellery, providing a friendly and

personalised service to create bespoke pieces, and working closely with

clients on a one-to-one basis, to turn their ideas into reality. This silver feather

pendant is one of their latest designs, and is handmade in Robb’s modest

workshop using a variety of silver smithing, texturing, and forming techniques.

Every piece is individual and can be made in any size.

From GBP 120

www.sterlingefforts.com

MAISON FRANCIS

KURKDJIAN CANDLE

THE INTOXICATING, WOODY

scent of this giant, limited-edition

candle, takes its inspiration from

the traditional pine Christmas tree,

hence its name, "Mon Beau Sapin",

which is the French version of the

the traditional German Christmas

carol "O Tannenbaum". Contained

within a beautiful Limoges porcelain

jar, decorated as a homage to the

brand's flagship Paris store, the

candle burns for approximately

98 hours. GBP 285

www.franciskurkdjian.com

DRIES VAN NOTEN

IMPOSSIBLE

COMBINATIONS

IMPOSSIBLE COMBINATIONS IS

a set of four new luxury eaux

de parfum by renowned Belgian designer,

Dries Van Noten, that are presented in beautiful

two-tone bottles that will surely become highly

collectable, now that the fashion pioneer has

announced his retirement.

From GBP 225 each

www.driesvannoten.com


BRITISH BOXERS

BERWICK ROBE

THIS HIGH QUALITY BERWICK DRESSING GOWN BY

British Boxers, in a bold check design, is the perfect

attire to lounge around in relaxed style on Boxing Day.

Fashioned from the softest brushed cotton, the robe

features two elegant pockets, inside ties so that it

hangs beautifully, and a belt. A wonderful gift for the

man who has almost everything.

GBP 125

www.british-boxers.com

DAVINES

COMPASSIONATE

MEN'S GIFT S ET

FOUNDED IN PARMA IN 1983 BY THE BOLLATI FAMILY,

Davines started as a research laboratory, producing high-end

haircare products for cosmetic companies worldwide. After 10

years, Davines began producing its own products, which are

now available around the world. "Pasta & Love" is the brand's

multipurpose men's range and this gift set includes beard

and body wash, a softening shaving gel, and a post-shave

moisturising cream.

GBP 54

davines.com

THE STANDARD

SALT AND

PEPPER

SHAKERS

IF YOU HAVE EVER HAD LUNCH AT THE

Standard’s Grill Restaurant, you may have

noticed a pair of adorable doggies staring

on your table. Now you can own your own,

hand-painted with his and her collars.

USD 30

www.shopedition.com


133

SHOPPING

EDITION

ICELANDIC

WOOL THROW

DESIGNED BY ARTIST VÉDÍS JÓNSDÓTTIR

exclusively for the Edition Hotel in Reykjavik,

this beautiful king-sized throw will surely bring

some winter warmth to any bed. Lovingly made

from 100% Icelandic wool, using a satin weave

technique not usually used in blankets, resulting

in a brush stroke-like texture, the colours palette

gently evokes beautiful Icelandic landscapes,

including grassland, moss, lichen, sky and the

mountains and will bring some winter

GBP 221

www.shopedition.com

MATHMOS

TELSTAR

LAMP

THIS YEAR, MATHMOS HAS

revisited one of its classic 90s

lamps and revamped it with

a slick update. This Telstar

Rocket lamp now comes in a

sleek matt gold finish and is

available in eight colourways

including a striking pink and

yellow combo. All use Mathmos'

new long-lasting lava formula.

The packaging is also cool, and

features graphics inspired by a

1960s Japanese film poster for

the cult film, Barbarella.

GBP 88

www.mathmos.com

STONE & MASON TORTOISE-

SHELL PEBBLE BAG

PERFECT FOR A NIGHT ON THE TOWN OR TRIPPING THE LIGHT FANTASTIC

at a Christmas bash, this versatile tortoiseshell pebble-shaped bag by

British mother-daughter duo, Stone & Mason, comes with a dual-purpose

golden chain-link strap, meaning the bag can be worn crossbody or held as a

clutch. It also comes with a matching crystal gua sha tool, which helps reduce

puffiness in the skin the morning after!

GBP 265

https://stone-and-mason.com


KNOCKOUT UNDIES & NIGHTWEAR

WWW.BRITISH-BOXERS.COM

SHOPPING

EBIT PANEL

COAT

FOUNDED BY SIMON WHITEHOUSE

at the height of pandemic lockdowns,

which was a time of isolation and

struggle for many, EBIT (Enjoy Being in

Transition) seeks to change the status

quo surrounding mental health in the

fashion community. This beautiful

coat is made of sweatshirt fabric but

instead of a typical hoodie, it is used

in a more sartorial fashion, providing

giving comfort in an elegant manner.

The oversized fit gives a feeling of

protection and cocooning oneself

through the traumas of everyday life.

GBP 695

https://modes.com

BUCKINGHAM

PALACE

SLOE GIN

HAVE YOURSELF A RIGHT ROYAL TIPPLE

this Christmas with Buckingham Palace’s

very own sloe gin! Handpicked sloe

berries are suffused with the Palace's

very own dry gin to create this rich

and intensely flavoured aperitif of a

light ruby colour, reminiscent of plums,

cranberries, cloves, and kirsch, creating

a clean and medium aroma with an

intense nose leaving you warm inside.

GBP 30

www.royalcollectionshop.co.uk


FABERGÉ HERITAGE

SURPRISE PENGUIN

LOCKET

HANGING FROM AN 18 CARAT YELLOW GOLD

trace chain, this dapper, hand-painted Fabergé

egg locket is made from 18 carat white gold and

is dressed in black vitreous enamel. Inside, the

cute penguin is set with a glittering white diamond

eye, as he dances on a sparkling silicate agate

base, which replicates the icy landscape of the

Antarctic. 17 further brilliant cut round white

diamonds adorn this utterly enchanting and

unique piece, which will surely be passed down

through generations.

GBP 12,960

www.faberge.com

SET OF ADAM HANDLING

COOK BOOKS

CELEBRATED BRITISH CHEF ADAM HANDLING’S LIMITED

edition boxed set of three recipe books, essentially tell the

story of his restaurant group, and the road to his first Michelin

star. The three books, Frog by Adam Handling, Why Waste?, and

Perfect, Three Cherries encompass everything that he and his

team have learned and developed over the years. Perfect for a

devoted foodie or a dedicated amateur chef.

GBP 160

www.adamhandling.co.uk

137

SHOPPING

PENHALIGON'S

ROSE PLEASURES

GIFT BOX

PENHALIGON'S HAS BEEN PRODUCING LUXURY

fragrances for more than 150 years.This box set

features one of its best selling scents, "Halfeti",

which is named after a Turkish province where

Byzantine, Armenian, Egyptian and Ottoman

heritages all come together. The area was famed

for its blood red roses that lined the banks of

the river Euphrates. Layers of creamy rose and

sweet spices fragrance a bottle of eau de parfum,

twinned with a hand and body wash.

GBP 225

www.penhaligons.com.

MAISON GAMES

BACKGAMMON SET

MAISON GAMES PRODUCES beautifully crafted

luxury versions of everyone's favourite games,

that are super stylish, functional, and make

elegant gifts. Games can also be personalised for

an extra special present.

From GBP 200

www.maisongames.com

STUDIO

VOLTAIRE

EXHIBITION

CATALOGUE

STUDIO VOLTAIRE WAS CREATED

more than 25 years ago by a group of

artists and creatives and is today one

of the UK’s leading not-for-profit arts

and educational organisations. This

catalogue was produced for one of Studio

Voltaire's exhibitions earlier this year,

when Beryl Cook and Tom of Finland were

paired to much acclaim. A great gift for a

culture vulture or fan of either of these

two iconic artists.

GBP 20

www.studiovoltaire.org


DSQUARED2 LEATHER

DUFFLE BAG

FRESH FROM THE CATWALKS OF MILAN, THIS purposefully

worn, brown leather duffle bag is ideal for a weekend away.

Made in Italy and designed by fashion’s terrible twins, Dean

and Dan, it features metallic branding, double zip fastening,

and two handles.

GBP 1,275

www.dsquared2.com

JO GIBBS TUNNOCK'S

PAPERWEIGHT

DESIGNER, CRAFTSWOMAN, ARTIST AND INTERIOR DECORATOR,

Jo Gibbs trained at Chelsea Art College and worked in Italy for ten

years as a fashion textile designer. Upon returning to the UK, both

disillusioned and inspired by today's throwaway culture, she set

up her own studio, dedicated to sourcing high quality objects and

adding a stylish twist. Gibbs loves nothing more than upcycling

discarded items and giving them a new lease of life, such as this

stylish glass paperweight, made using the foil wrapper from a

heritage Tunnock's Teacake.

GBP 55

www.jogibbslondon.com


139

SHOPPING

FORTNUM & MASON

CHRISTMAS FEAST HAMPER

EVERYONE WILL FIND SOMETHING TO LOVE ON CHRISTMAS DAY,

inside this indulgent Fortnum & Mason luxury hamper. The Londonbased

inventor of the humble Scotch Egg has left nothing to chance

this year, with this huge selection brimming with sweet treats,

moreish foods, savoury delights, and delectable tipples.

GBP 1,000

www.fortnumandmason.com

VERTEX BRONZE

B36 WATCH

THIS METICULOUSLY CRAFTED SOLID BRONZE

timepiece by heritage British watchmakers

Vertex, was inspired by the iconic watches

supplied to British forces on D-Day, and made

to commemorate its 80th anniversary on 6 June

1944. Water resistant to 100 metres and echoing

the spirit of resilience and precision that were

critical on that day, the Vertex B36 features a

classic 36 millimetre case, making it suitable for

all wrist sizes, and uses top sapphire crystal, boxshaped

for a distinctly vintage look while offering

unbeatable scratch resistance. Inside, the watch

is powered by a SW261 movement, known for its

exacting reliability. The Vertex B36 is presented

in a unique custom-made, military-grade tactical

case, complete with a number of different straps.

GBP 2,295

https://vertex-watches.com


LITTLE BLACK BOOK

WEB DIRECTORY FOR ISSUE 48 OF

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE

AADELAIDE FRINGE

➤ https://adelaidefringe.com.au

AMAN VENICE

➤ www.amanvenice.com

GGION MANZARA

➤ www.manzara.co.jp/gion

GLOW WILD AT WAKEHURST

➤ www.kew.org/glowwild

WEB DIRECTORY

BBANYAN TREE

HIGASHIYAMA KYOTO

➤ www.banyantree.com

BERLINALE

➤ www.berlinale.de

BRITISH BOXERS

➤ www.british-boxers.com

BUNGALO34, DUBAI

➤ www.bungalo34.com

KKANDY ESALA PERAHERA

CCAFÉ HASSUI, KYOTO

➤ https://kandyesalaperahera.com

➤ www.suirankyoto.com/hassui KYOTO KITCHO ARASHIYAMA

CAFÉ SAVOY, HELSINKI

➤ www.kyoto-kitcho.com

➤ https://cafesavoy.fi/en

COMO METROPOLITAN SINGAPORE

➤ www.comohotels.com

FFÊTE DES LUMIÈRES

➤ www.fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr

FUSHIMI INARI SHRINE, KYOTO

➤ https://inari.jp

HHAY FESTIVAL CARTAGENA

➤ www.hayfestival.com


➤ www.hortencollection.com

HORNBILL FESTIVAL

➤ www.hornbillfestival.com

HOTEL SOSEI SAPPORO

➤ www.hotelsoseisapporo.com

LL'ABBAYE DES VAUX-DE-CERNAY

➤ www.abbayedesvauxde

cernay.com

LORD OF SNOW

➤ www.hautemontagne.com

Kongde Ri, Nepal

M

MANLY PACIFIC

➤ www.manlypacific.com.au

MOUNTAIN LODGES OF NEPAL

➤ https://mountainlodges

ofnepal.com

NNIHONBASHI, COLOMBO

➤ http://www.nihonbashi.lk

PPROTOTYPE

➤ https://prototypefestival.org

Q

QUÉBEC WINTER CARNIVAL

➤ https://carnaval.qc.ca/en

QUEEN’S HOTEL, KANDY

➤ https://queenshotel.lk

RRAFFLES AL AREEN

PALACE BAHRAIN

➤ www.raffles.com

ROSSANO FERRETTI

➤ www.rossanoferretti.com

RHYTHM & VINES

➤ www.rhythmandvines.co.nz

SSAGANO SCENIC RAILWAY

➤ www.sagano-kanko.co.jp

SANJŪSANGEN-DŌ, KYOTO

➤ www.sanjusangendo.jp

SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL

➤ www.snowfes.com/en

SINGITA EBONY

➤ www.singita.com

SKATE AT SOMERSET HOUSE

➤ www.somersethouse.org.uk

SUPER BOWL LIX

➤ www.nfl.com/super-bowl

TTHE HOXTON VIENNA

➤ www.thehoxton.com

THE RITZ-CARLTON RABAT,

DAR ES SALAM

➤ www.ritzcarlton.com

THE RITZ-CARLTON YACHT

COLLECTION

➤ www.ritzcarltonyacht

collection.com

THE SHINMONZEN

➤ https://theshinmonzen.com

THE SIAM

➤ www.thesiamhotel.com

THE ST. REGIS AL MOUJ

MUSCAT RESORT

➤ www.stregis.com

TREBARTHA EAST -

THE ROUND HOUSE

➤ www.trebartha-east.com

VVENICE CARNIVAL

➤ www.carnevale.venezia.it

VERTEX WATCHES

➤ www.vertexwatches.com

VISIT KYOTO

➤ https://kyoto.travel/en

Everest Base Camp, Nepal

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 141

suite with a view

GRAND CANAL SUITE ➤ AMAN VENICE, ITALY

FEATURING JUST 24 UNIQUE

bedrooms and suites slotted into

16th-century Palazzo Papadopoli’s

original rooms, Aman Venice is located in San Polo,

on the much quieter side of the Rialto Bridge, far from

tourist-rammed San Marco.

Its name originating from the presence of Campo

San Polo, the largest square after San Marco, San

Polo is one of the city’s smallest, oldest, and most

charming districts, and is enclosed in a vast loop by

the Grand Canal.

The original owners of the palazzo, Venetian

aristocrats Count Gilberto and Princess Bianca

Arrivabene, still live in the top floors of the building.

But below them, priceless frescos and massive

Murano chandeliers are paired with decadent silks

and sleek furnishings, deftly reinterpreting Aman’s

trademark minimalist aesthetic.

BOASTING MAGNIFICENT EYE-LEVEL VIEWS

of Venice's main waterway, the Grand Canal Suite

offers an elegant and contemporary retreat in the

heart of the city, its expansive interior comprising

a king-sized bedroom and separate sitting room,

each offering a different view. In the former, large

picture windows frame the canal, while in the latter,

the filigree, arched window creates drama and offers

a different aspect. Both rooms are flooded with

natural light and authentic, characterful features,

including an original fireplace, gilt mirror, and a

beautiful fan window.

www.amanvenice.com


The past, present, and future

of Penn Quarter

www.riggsdc.com

DISCOVER EXCEPTIONAL LUXURY

IN THE HEART OF VIENNA

LUXURY IS PERSONAL

parkhyattvienna.com

(48) The Cultured Traveller, December 2024-February 2025 Issue 48

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