*TravelWorld International Magazine Spring 2025

SPRING 2025
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE
Springtime
Jekyll Island, Georgia
The Magazine Written and Photographed by North American Travel Journalists Association Members

Letter from the Editor
TravelWorld International Magazine
is the only magazine that showcases
the member talents of the
North American
Travel Journalists Association
SPRING
2025
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
Springtime!
Thankful that the long and very cold winter is finally coming to an
end, I believe we have included many tantalizing stories in this issue
to whet your appetitie for travel once again!
Whether you still want to enjoy the ski slopes or prefer to move
on to warmer places, you will find many possibilities and a variety
of special interests presented here. Internationally we explore
Cork, Cobh, and Kinsale Ireland, the history and the beauty of the
Peloponnese Peninsula in Greece, arts and crafts in Ecuador, time for
fun in Playa del Carmen, Mexico, and last, but certainly not least, a
great extavaganza of underwater life photographed in Puerta Galera
on the Sabang Peninsula of the Philippines! So "dive-in" and enjoy
these stories, plus our cover story on the famous Jekyll Island on the
coast of Georgia!
Group Publisher:
Publishers:
VP Operations:
Editor in Chief:
Copy Editor:
NATJA Publications
Helen Hernandez &
Bennett W. Root, Jr.
Yanira Leon
Joy Bushmeyer
Emily Gonzales
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS:
Jim Bamboulis
Nancy Besharah
Jeanne Neylon Decker
Karen LeBlanc
Adam Pitluk
Steven Rosenberg
Carla Marie Rupp
Jason Rupp
Springtime!
Explore Nature and History: A Family-Friendly Experience on Jekyll Island 6
Nancy Besharah
What to Do in Playa del Carmen? (Mexico) 14
Carla Marie Rupp & Jason Rupp
CORK, COBH, & KINSALE:
Discover Ireland's Scenic and Culinary Getaway to the Wild Atlantic Way 18
Jim Bamboulis
Discover an Unforgettable Diving Experience in Puerto Galera (Philippines) 22
Steve Rosenberg
Happy Travels!
Joy Bushmeyer,
Editor in Chief
DMO CONTRIBUTORS:
Florida's Historic Coast
6
12
Cover Photo
Cover Photo provided by Nancy Besharah
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2
Nancy Besharah (NATJA Board Member) and her son, Callum,
travelled to Georgia's Jekyll Island to experience its famous
hospitality and natural environment. They explored miles of paved
bike paths amid forests of maritime trees covered with wispy
Spanish moss. They discovered expansive salt marshes and viewed
conservation efforts of bird, plants,and animal habitats. They
immersed themselves in the famous history of the island and of their
hotel, which at one time was the Jekyll Island Club, the glamerous
setting of the Gilded Age's wealthy patrons such as the Rockefellors
and Vanderbilts. It closed during WWII and later purchased by the
state of Georgia. With a $20 million resoration it is now enjoyed by
many as the fabulous Jekyll Island Resort.
Volume 2025.01 Spring 2025. Copyright ©2025
by NATJA Publications, Inc. All rights reserved.
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World International Magazine or NATJA
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of NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.
18
24
3

Travel Back
SPRING
2025
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
In Time.
Springtime!
Top Family Skiing Destination: Exploring Loon Mountain on the East Coast 30
Adam Pitluk
Take Time
for a Taste
of Culture.
Crafting a Unique, Cultural Journey through Ecuador 36
Karen LeBlanc
Discover the Peloponnese Peninsula: A Historic Adventure through Time 44
Jeanne Neylon Decker
30 36
Take
Your
44
Time.
4
IT’S ABOUT TIME
FLORIDASHISTORICCOAST.COM 5

Explore Nature and History: A Family-Friendly Experience on
Jekyll Island
Story and Photos
by Nancy Besharah
Horton House
Photo courtesy of
Golden Isles
Guests can learn how to play the
game on the croquet pitch on the
grounds of Jekyll Island Club.
Photo courtesy of
Jekyll Island Club Resort
There are 24 miles are paved,
dedicated cycling trails on
Jekyll Island, Georgia.
6
uck," I shouted to my son, who pedaled his
blue-colored cruiser bike a few feet behind
mine. I'd rounded a corner on the dedicated
cycling path and ridden into a curtain of
Spanish moss hanging from an ancient oak.
The lacy light green moss brushed my forehead,
but given his height, Callum would get a mouthful
if he didn't hunch over the handlebars.
We were exploring Georgia's Jekyll Island on 24 miles of
paved bike paths that encircle and cross the 7-mile-long
island, where many trees in the more than thousand acres of
maritime forest are adorned with wispy Spanish moss.
Alongside part of the trail, we watched statuesque snow-white
egrets hunt in salt marshes fed by the Atlantic Ocean. Jekyll
Island has some of the most expansive salt marshes on the East
Coast of the USA, and these areas are vital habitats for birds,
plants, reptiles, and mammals.
We travelled to Georgia's most accessible barrier island to
experience the renowned Southern hospitality and protected
natural environment, but we quickly became interested in the
island's rich history.
Our destination was Horton House, the skeletal remains of
a 1743 home and one of Georgia's oldest surviving tabby
buildings. We read that tabby or natural cement is made
by burning oyster shells to create lime and mixing in sand,
crushed shells, and water. This mixture is poured into
construction forms to build structures.
After sipping water stored in the basket of our cruiser
bikes, we turned back towards our hotel, the historic
Jekyll Island Club, to return our bicycles before a
croquet lesson and more immersion into the island's
storied past.
Horse-drawn carriages began delivering America's elite
to the Jekyll Island Club when it opened in January
1888. This exclusive retreat for some of the country's
wealthiest and most influential families represented
one-sixth of the world's wealth at that time. Club
members, including J.P. Morgan, William Rockefeller,
and the Vanderbilts, typically spent the winter season on
Jekyll, soaking up the sun, swimming, golfing, hunting,
and playing croquet.
Jekyll Island Bike Rental is
conveniently located
on the grounds of the
historic Jekyll Island Club.
7

Jekyll Island Club is located on 240-acres.
Photo courtesy of Jekyll Island Club Resort
he Jekyll Island Club closed in 1942 when
members left the island due to World War II.
The State of Georgia eventually purchased
the island in 1947.
After a $20 million restoration to its original grandeur,
Jekyll Island Club reopened as a historic hotel in 1987,
offering guests a taste of Gilded Age glamour and an intriguing
American history lesson. As tourism expanded on the island, so
did hotels and amenities, but in a controlled manner. Development
is limited to 35% of Jekyll Island, and the remaining 65% is
preserved in its natural state.
In addition to preservation, conservation and rehabilitation efforts
are evident on Jekyll Island. We spent an afternoon learning about
and observing turtles at Georgia's only sea turtle education and
rehabilitation center, located in the renovated power plant on the
grounds of Jekyll Island Club. The Georgia Sea Turtle Center cares
for sick and injured turtles and returns most of them to the ocean.
"Bottlenose
dolphins are
another creature
living in the ocean
surrounding
Jekyll Island. We
joined a sunset
dolphin cruise on
St Andrews Sound
departing from the
wharf at the Jekyll
Island Club.
Photo courtesy of
Golden Isles
The Wharf restaurant located on
the Jekyll Island Club historic pier.
Photo courtesy of
Jekyll Island Club Resort
The 10 miles of beaches on Jekyll Island are critical habitat for
loggerhead sea turtles. Sea turtle hatching season typically is from
August through October. This is the best time for nature lovers
to potentially watch turtle hatchlings emerge from their nest and
crawl down the sand and into the ocean.
Bottlenose dolphins are another creature living in the ocean
surrounding Jekyll Island. We joined a sunset dolphin cruise on St
Andrews Sound departing from the pier at the Jekyll Island Club.
Shortly after our departure, the captain slowed near a freshwater
source where manatees often drink. We watched and waited,
but sadly, the manatees weren't thirsty. Before too long, a group
of dolphins, including a mother, her calf, and her nanny, began
trailing our boat. We learned that calves nurse for three years and
stay with their mother for six years, along with another single
female who helps out.
Baby sea turtle
Photo courtesy of
Golden Isles
Georgia’s only Sea Turtle Center
is located in the renovated historic
power plant on Jekyll Island.
8
9

The historic Jekyll Island Club
opened as an exclusive retreat in
1888. The completed refurbished
property is currently operated as
a hotel and offers guests a
taste of the Gilded Age.
n our last full day, we paired our
nature-rich experiences with more of
the island's intriguing history. After
exploring Mosaic, the Jekyll Island
Museum, we hopped on an apple-red
trolley pulled by a matching tractor for
a guided tour of the Landmark Historic
District and a peek inside a few of the
refurbished buildings.
Spread over 240 acres, the Historic District
comprises 34 historic buildings, including the Jekyll
Island Club, Faith Chapel, and cottages constructed
during The Club era. Cherokee Cottage, built in
1904 with tall windows framed by elegant green
shutters, was a favorite. We were thrilled to discover
the fully refurbished cottage contains 10 guest
rooms and is bookable as a private luxury retreat or
as individual guest rooms.
We heard more about the island's compelling
history before returning to Mosaic. "Hope to see
you again soon," exclaimed Ray, our Historic
District tour guide, as we stepped off the trolley
at the end of the tour before adding, "Everyone
returns to Jekyll Island." After five days on Jekyll,
we feel like Ray is right.
Cherokee Cottage, built in 1904 is located in the Landmark
Historic District on Jekyll Island. This refurbished cottage is
available as guest accommodation at Jekyll Island Club.
Jekyl Island Marsh
Photo courtesy of
Golden Isles
The historic pier at Jekyll lsland Club Resort is home to
The Wharf restaurant and a departure point for dolphin tours.
Photo courtesy of Jekyll Island Club Resort
Good to Know
Louis Vuitton Steamer Trunks at Mosaic
- Mosaic is the Jekyll Island Museum.
Visitors can learn learn about the past
and view exhibitions from the early
days at the Jekyll Island Club.
10
Jekyll Island Club Resort includes two sister properties. The
Jekyll Island Club, located in the Landmark Historic District,
and the beachfront Jekyll Ocean Club, an all-suite property
with Atlantic Ocean views, opened in 2017. Jekyll Ocean
Club is located on the other side of the island and is a scenic
6-minute hotel shuttle ride away.
Jekyll Island Club has been a Historic Hotels Worldwide charter
member since 2013.
Jekyll Island is about a one-hour drive from Jacksonville
International Airport (JAX) and 90 minutes from Savannah/
Hilton Head International Airport (SAV).
11

Playa Del Carmen letters on the sand
rom our week at a wellness
retreat, we learned that Playa
also has “ruins,” and we dare you
to find this archaeological site of
Xaman-Ha just behind the upscale
beach area of Playacar, a short walk from
the ferry that goes to Cozumel. We joined
friends for a fun picnic of tropical fruits near
the Playa del Carmen ruins that most people
don't know about. Our friend Grant Campbell
showed us a beautiful hidden bird sanctuary
called the Xaman-Ha Aviary. This exquisite
area is so quiet and inspiring. We were in awe
at the bird sightings and snapped a plethora of
pictures. We saw pelicans, toucans, flamingos,
and macaws and walked the trail around a
pond in the forest. On the Jason Rupp channel
on YouTube, you can see our experiences in
the awesome aviary. The incredible video can
be searched at “Nobody Goes Here in Playa
del Carmen.” (Well, no one was there when we
went!)
Xaman-Ha ruins in Playa
What to do in PLAYA DEL CARMEN ?
Besides Lounge on the Beaches
We can recommend going to some of the many
barbershops and salons in Playa for a “new
you.” There are numerous videos on the Jason
Rupp Travel & Pamper channel of him getting
pedicures and manicures for $10, even haircuts
and shaves for $5. He loves “going local” for
these deals.
Viewing birds in the
Xaman-Ha Aviary is
a peaceful way to
spend the afternoon
Story and Photos by Carla Marie Rupp and Jason Rupp
Playa del Carmen, a vibrant
international beach city in the Yucatan
peninsula of Mexico, has a lot going
for it as an exciting getaway, short or
long. We've had some quick, fun trips
here and a few more extended ones.
Either way, we offer some tips on
what to do besides just being on the
beautiful beaches in the Caribbean Sea.
Travelers might not all know about our
discoveries.
This resort city, simply nicknamed
Playa, offers so much more than the
great beaches. We'll give you a few
ideas of things to do when you're not
lounging on the sandy beaches. These
include finding a quiet nature preserve
park to view birds, watching a nightly
show of Indigenous dancers at the
iconic statue at Portal Maya, chasing
amazing food and music, and lots
more.
When you take an easy bus ride on
Ado from the Cancun International
Airport to Playa del Carmen, you
arrive in the heart of the seaside city.
Visitors from the north especially
enjoy the warm climate any season. It's
a pleasant adjustment for us from New
York City. Of course, we love Mexican
food. A surprise was finding so many
ethnic cuisines, from Indian to Italian.
Parrots are fun to watch in the
Xaman-Ha bird sanctuary
12
13

Mayan dancers perform
nightly at Portal Maya
for free
Portal Maya
statue lights
up in vivid
colors
nother tip besides getting pampered
would be to take in some of the
considerable entertainment in
Playa from late-night disco/house
band, tango, and salsa dancing to
experiencing local culture. We
can recommend watching the
Mayan culture shows on the seaside at Portal Maya.
This site's 16-ton bronze sculpture is 16 meters high
and impressive by day or night. It is open to visit all
day until midnight. The free shows at Parque Los
Fundadores are honoring the heritage of the Mayan
civilization.
Many bars and restaurants host musicians. You'll
also find plenty of street performers. La Vagabunda
is a restaurant that features a fun schedule of musical
performers, from folk to jazz musicians, who are
easy to meet. You might even get to play or sing a
tune if you ask. Carla was allowed to video tape her
professional jazz musician friend Sukie Rae playing
a number on her flute. Lido Beach Club is another
favorite of ours, with its roster of live music.
Playa is considered safe in the tourist zones. As New
Yorkers, we always find it interesting that the popular
street to walk up and down is Fifth Avenue. It's one of
the things to do other than sit on the beach. You'll find
so much to see and do at any time of the day or night.
Any of the bars or restaurants here are great meeting
points. Shops are great for buying or browsing and
seem almost endless. At one, we stocked up on
colorful beach spreads that we still use.
Playa is central to visiting attractions in either direction on
day trips. You can take an excursion easily purchased from
one of the many travel kiosks. Or you can plan your own
day trip to places such as Tulum to see the ruins or enjoy
the beautiful beach; or to Puerto Morelos, where many like
to snorkel and see where local Mexicans have their holiday.
For a break from the busy tourist town, visit the charming
white chapel by the sea, "Nuestra Senora del Carmen"
tranlated, "Our Lady of Mt. Carmel." English mass is on
Sundays and visitors are welcome anytime.
One of our favorite day trips was to the water park Xcaret.
A splurge, Xcaret is well worth every bit of what you might
spend for the day. It's a feel-good day we can never forget
that included taking photos of flamingos, wandering
around with curiosity … and best of all going through a
“cave” in a river ride and ending up near the ocean. It was
just in time for a delicious lunch buffet with the most food
and food stations one can imagine! There was much to
see and do at this attraction and our day ending up with a
fabulous grandstand night show finale of dancing, history,
and entertainment. It was easy to catch a van back to Playa
and find our hotel. On our retreat, we learned about all
the “cenotes” in the area and explored many of them on
different days.
Jason enjoys soaking in one of
the many cenotes around Playa
"Nuestra Senora del Carmen"
is the name of the pretty
white chapel by the sea.
Visitors love getting on swings for
photo ops on instagram!
La Vagabunda restaurant features
musicians performing at night.
Here is our friend Suki Rae
invited to play flute.
Fifth Avenue
in Playa
offers
visitors
selections
of souvenirs
and colorful
clothing in
the shops.
Cenotes are fun
to swim at in
Playa Del Carmen
Jason and Carla
enjoyed their day trip
to the Xcaret attraction
14
15

We had to stop in here and couldn_t resist
getting some Mexican hot chocolate
Fresh made
banana muffins
go well with
coffee in
Playa
xpats love Playa as a place to
connect and get some work done.
You might meet them in one of the
many little coffee shops. They are
from all over the world. Anyone
can go to friendly expat gatherings.
We found an evening one we liked
that meets weekly from 7 to 10 pm Fridays on
the roof deck of the Be Playa Hotel. It's fun,
and you'd enjoy one of their pina coladas or
other specialty cocktails. There's a little table
where you can sit and put your feet in the pool
and sip your drink. Finding new places to eat
or have coffee or hot chocolate and Mexicanmade
banana muffins and pastries is always
fun. We even organized a group of friends for
vegan hot dogs in a 50s-styled diner, Comet
989. It's easy to make outings with new-found
friends. One time, we gathered people to
compete for Tuesday evening (7 to 10 pm.)
trivia at Buzos Restaurant-Bar for Laura's Quiz
Night; another night it was to get laughs at a
stand-up comedy event.
You never
get tired
of yummy
tacos in
Playa.
Enchiladas with
freshly sliced
avocado
We are always looking for healthy food
options, and we found them at places such as
Bio Natural and Organic Natural restaurants.
Other options are the Weekend Market in
the Town Square and the “Mercado” area's
cafes, near 7th Street between 10th and 15th
Avenues, for deals on food.
Tasty and delicious Mexican
tacos appeal to visitors
Mexican Tacos
made healthy and
natural at Bionatural
Don't forget the grooming places that are
dotted all over Playa. Jason made many
YouTube videos for his Jason Rupp channel
while getting haircuts, shaves, and massages.
Prices are reasonable for getting pampered.
Everyone enjoys barbershops and salons,
particularly when they can get a break from
the hot daytime sun. Also, look for great food;
it's everywhere! We found such tasty, healthy
Mexican food.
We hope you find our suggestions helpful for
things to do if you come to Playa for a getaway.
Churros,
our favorite
street food
snack in
Playa!
Jason Rupp and Carla Marie Rupp are freelance
travel journalists. They can be reached at:
jasonruppy@gmail.com and
carlaruppy@gmail.com.
Jason visits the local fruit shop
and says it all looks so fresh
Rice and delicious beans
catch our appetite
16
17

Cork, Cobh,
and Kinsale
Cork
18
Discover Ireland's Scenic and Culinary
Getaway to the Wild Atlantic Way
Story and Photos
by Jim Bamboulis
CORK
View of town of Blarney and gardens
from atop Blarney Castle
History, culture, and food. That’s all I need for a great adventure, and
in Ireland, I didn’t have to look too hard to find all three. Along the
southwest corner of the beautiful island nation sits the Atlantic Way.
Cork, Cobh, and Kinsale offer a rich tapestry of historical, cultural, and
culinary delights at its gateway. Enticed, I could hardly wait to dive in
and experience the authentic Irish spirit.
COBH
Deck of cards
homes with
St. Colman's in
the background
KINSALE
Scilly Walk is a paved loop trail that hugs Kinsale’s waterfront, offering skyline views
of the picturesque harbor and heritage sites including Charles Fort and James Fort.
I start in Cork, the country’s secondlargest
city. Upon arrival, my hotel
concierge suggested visiting the fabled
St. Anne’s Church. Considered the city
symbol, it’s an ideal launching point
when exploring Cork. This 18th-century
landmark features eight Shandon Bells,
which visitors can ring themselves via
an Ellacombe apparatus and play any
number of songs available. I climbed
the clock tower for a more panoramic
view of the city, wearing headphones
provided by church staff. After all, when
others ring the bells, protecting your
hearing is essential.
I usually take self-guided tours when
traveling, but in Cork, I opted for an
organized tour. Known as Ireland’s
Foodie Capital, I decided on the
Underground Donut Tour, which
appealed to me the most. More than
just donuts, this two-hour excursion
combines food, history, and culture, and
I was excited to pack on calories while
seeing the sites. From pistachio cream
donuts to chocolate-stuffed churros, I
was in dessert heaven. But it was the
stops along the way that intrigued me.
I felt the city’s energy while strolling
eclectic Oliver Plunkett Street, home
to Cork’s pulsating shopping district. I
got the inside scoop on the city’s iconic
18th-century English Market, one of
the oldest in Europe. A culinary hub
with fresh delights, it’s also a cultural,
architectural, and historical beacon of
hope, having survived famine, floods,
war, and fires. Post-tour, I headed to
the Cork Butter Museum - yes, a butter
museum - and learned more about the
city’s central role in the butter trade.
Blarney, one of Ireland’s last standing
estate villages, makes for an easy and
memorable day trip. I painstakingly
kissed the famous Stone of Eloquence,
explored the castle, and blissfully
meandered its eloquent grounds.
View of Cork from the top of
St. Anne's church
River view of Cork with St. Anne's In
background
Cork’s English Market has been
around since 1788. One of the
oldest in Europe, it has survived
famine, flood, war and fires, easily
symbolizing the resilience of the
city and its citizens.
The church of St. Anne was built
between 1722 and 1726. Overlooking
the river Lee, the church tower is a
symbol of the city, and its church
bells were popularized in a 19thcentury
song. A climb to the top
offers panoramic views of Cork city.
Medieval Blarney Castle was built
in 1446. Millions visit annually to
explore the castle, kiss the famous
Blarney Stone, and wander its unique
grounds and gardens.
Cork’s Underground Donut Tour is 2
hours and 2 miles long. It showcases
the city’s deliciously diverse food
scene, including freshly made
churros, and donuts, of course.
19

St. Colman’s Roman Catholic
cathedral was completed in
1919. With its 300-foot steeple,
it is the tallest church in Ireland.
CoBH
KINSALE
Jack Hickey is the artist behind the massive Titanic
mural. Cobh was the last port of call for Titanic,
sinking in 1912 on her maiden voyage.
Next stop: Cobh (pronounced ‘Cove’), a short, scenic train ride
from Cork famed for its colorful facades and rich history. I’m
immediately struck by the town’s skyline, dominated by
St. Colman’s Cathedral, prominently overlooking one of the
largest natural harbors in the world. Eager to explore, I tackle
hilly West View, where 23 iconic Deck of Cards houses, built
in the 1850s and painted different colors provide exceptional
photo ops and reward me with incredible views.
Along the water, Cohb’s history comes alive. The Victorian
Promenade, aka John F. Kennedy Memorial Park, features
everything from a bandstand and playground to antique cannons
and coffee stands. Ireland’s only dedicated cruise terminal, this
tiny yet mighty town, was a shipbuilding mecca in the 19th
century, launching the first steamship from Ireland to England
in 1821 and the first steamship to cross the Atlantic in 1838. In
Casement Square, an RMS Lusitania Memorial commemorates
the sinking of the British ocean liner by a German U-boat in
1915. Nearby, the Cobh Heritage Centre illustrates the town’s
central role as the main departure point for 2.5 million Irish
emigrants to North America in the mid-19th century. Home
to the Titanic’s last port of call, the Titanic Experience is an
immersive museum located in the historic White Star Line
Building. Led by knowledgeable and interactive storytellers,
families can explore the wide range of exhibits that bring the
ship’s fateful voyage to life.
While Cork and Cobh proved lovely, Kinsale captured my heart. This
picturesque coastal gem, dubbed ‘Ireland’s Riviera,’ sparkles with soul at
every turn. The sun’s breaking through the clouds; the air is fresh and crisp
as I work up an appetite on Scilly Walk, a scenic riverside trail with views
of two 17th-century fortresses: James Fort and star-shaped Charles Fort. In
town, I smile, utterly captivated while meandering its narrow alleys, lined
with bright-colored buildings adorned with beautiful floral arrangements
cascading from windows and doors. While Kinsale’s galleries, bookshops,
and boutiques reflect its rich, artistic legacy, its thriving culinary scene has
turned heads worldwide. Despite a population of only 6,000, Kinsale boasts
an astonishing 50+ eateries, offering a diverse culinary selection, earning its
title as ‘The Gourmet Capital of Ireland.’
As someone with an insatiable appetite, I booked a spot with Kinsale Food
Tours. Led by Suzanne Burns, this two-and-a-half-hour, four-stop culinary
journey deliciously reflects the artisanal flavors of the region. Suzanne
seamlessly adds a dash of history and heritage to the experience, reiterating
Kinsale’s deep and unwavering passion for fresh food using local ingredients
provided by local suppliers.
The food tour is just the tip of the culinary iceberg. Kinsale is home to four
Michelin restaurants, including Rare (South Indian), Saint Francis Provisions
(Mediterranean), Max’s (Seafood), and Bastion, a Michelin one-star that
showcases local, contemporary Irish cuisine. If that isn’t enough, Kinsale is
also home to several food festivals, including Moet & Chandon Restaurant
Week, one of the country’s longest-running food fests, Street Feast, and the
Gourmet Food Festival which has been going strong for over 40 years.
Kinsale food tours are a lot like walking
meals. Guests get a glimpse of Kinsale’s
range of culinary options, including fish
and chips, chocolates and charcuterie.
While eating is the
main activity, guests
also learn more about
the proprietors and
history of the area
from a fishing village
to a culinary capital.
Mini pancakes
with dips and
syrups during
kinsale food tour
John F. Kennedy Memorial Park, or the prom
as it’s known locally, offers lovely views of
both the water and town. The town’s hub,
it plays host to festivals and
concerts year-round.
Annie Moore is the first emigrant ever
to be processed at Ellis Island. The
statue of Annie and her two brothers
is located directly outside
Cobh Heritage Centre.
Located opposite Charles Fort,
James Fort was built in 1607 and
remains an example of 17th century
military architecture.
Kinsale is at the Gateway to
the Atlantic Way. Famous for its
colorful streetscapes, boutiques,
cafes and restaurants, it’s
considered to be the
gourmet capital
of Ireland.
20
21

Schools of colorful Anthias
and Red Tooth Triggerfish
flow over the reef at the top
of the Verde Passage Wall.
Discover an Unforgettable
Diving Adventure
in Puerto Galera
Story and Photos by
Steve Rosenberg
The Philippines offers some of the best warm diving
in all of the Indo-Pacific region. The water is warm
enough to be comfortable in a dive skin or thin
wetsuit; the visibility is generally very good yearround;
and there is an incredible variety of marine
life. One of the most popular areas to dive in the
Philippines is the Sabang Peninsula, located at the
northern edge of mountainous Mindoro Island. This
area is usually referred to as “Puerto Galera.”
Puerto Galera (Spanish for “Port of the Galleons”) is
a town on the north coast of the island of Mindoro,
just south of the Sabang Peninsula. Even though
this dive region is referred to as Puerto Galera,
most visiting divers stay at hotels and resorts in
crowded Sabang Village or in the neighboring
beach communities like Big La Laguna and Small
La Laguna and rarely set foot in the town of Puerto
Galera at all.
For most travelers heading to ‘Puerto Galera’, the
port of entry is the Ninoy Aquino International
Airport in Manila. It is fairly easy to travel to Puerto
Galera from Manila. Most resorts and dive centers
will arrange for transportation for their guests. This
involves a taxi ride from Manila south to the Port
of Batangas, and a 30-minute speed boat ride to
Sabang, via the Verde Island Passage.
Visiting divers must first select whom to dive with
and where to stay. There are over 50 dive resorts
located on or near the northern beaches of the
Sabang peninsula. Most of these are located in
three beachfront communities. Sabang Beach is
located in the middle of the Sabang Peninsula, and
while it offers the most restaurants and bars, it is by
far the busiest and noisiest area. A little farther to
the west, and only minutes away, is Little La Laguna
Beach, and this is where the majority of the dive
resorts are located. On the far western side of the
Sabang Peninsula is Big La Laguna Beach, which
offers wide open beach access and the quietest
area, and it is still only a fifteen-minute walk from
the bars, restaurants, and noise of Sabang Beach.
Scandi Divers Dive
Resort is located right
on Big La Laguna Beach,
Puerto Galera .
Divers board a 'banca
outrigger' dive boat at
Big La Laguna Beach,
Scandi Divers.
22
Shannon Rosenberg swims
along a cluster of Sea Fans
decorating the face of the
Verde Passage Wall.
My preference is Scandi Divers, located on the
western side of the picturesque beach community,
Big La Laguna Beach. The 2025 Scuba Diving
Magazine Readers Choice Awards selected
‘ScandiDivers’ as the best overall Dive Operator in
the whole of the Indo-Pacific region. This sentiment
was echoed by my traveling companions, who
included two of my dive team members and
videographers at Dive and Travel Guides, my
daughter Shannon, and my friend and dive buddy
Tony Martinez.
Showin' a little love, Philippino style, with our excellent dive
guide, Mike Medina and the rest of the dive staff.
23

Blue ring octopus,
Hapalochlaena
lunulata, makes a
brief appearance
at the Secret Bay
Muck dive site..
24
A Diver checks
out a species
of colonial
stony coral at
Sabang Point.
A Diver
encounters a
green turtle
resting on the
sand at the
Sabang Wreck.
We got our first look at the resort as our speed
boat/water taxi from Batangas dropped us off
immediately in front of the Scandi Divers complex,
located in the middle of the beachfront in Big La
Laguna. We walked down the ramp from the boat
into ‘calf-deep’ water, while the resort staff sorted
and delivered luggage to our rooms. This is where
the fun began, and we started to experience how
spoiled we were going to be by the friendly and
professional staff at the resort. We checked in and
headed to our comfortable accommodations, which
overlooked the picturesque seaside community.
The Diving in Puerto Galera
Puerto Galera offers a terrific variety of diving which
is appropriate for inexperienced divers but also
offers challenging and exciting sites for experienced
divers. In the gorgeous coves and bays scattered
around the Sabang Peninsula, there are some
30 spectacular dive sites within 20 minutes from
most of the dive operators, and of course, there
are many more just a bit farther away. This diving
includes shallow coral gardens, exciting current
dives, wreck dives, muck dives, and beautiful, sheer
walls. Scattered throughout these sites, divers
will find beautiful corals, colorful feather stars, an
abundance of fishes, sea turtles, and macro critters,
in the heart of the Coral Triangle. The Coral Triangle
is a region in the Indo-Pacific that is the habitat for
76% of known coral species around the globe, 52%
of Indo-Pacific reef fishes, and 37% of the world’s
reef fishes. Diving here offers the highest diversity
of coral reef fishes in the world- or more than 3,000
species, and you can also find 6 of the 7 species of
marine turtles. As a comparison, the Caribbean Sea
has about 700 species, and Hawaii has closer to
600 species. Fortunately, the waters around Puerto
Galera were declared a marine-sanctuary decades
ago and have been maintained as a healthy marine
environment. The countries included in the Coral
Triangle are The Philippines, Malaysia, Papua New
Guinea, the Solomon Islands, Timor Leste, and parts
of Indonesia.
The diving conditions in Puerto Galera are good
to great throughout the year. Most of the diving is
done from large ‘bancas,’ which are boats that have
bamboo outriggers on either side of the hull. Divers
enter the water via a backward roll. Ladders afford
an easy means of climbing back into the boat. At
the end of the dives, divers simply remove their
buoyancy Compensator, tank, and weights and
hand them up to a crew member before climbing
up the ladder.
Puerto Galera is generally considered
to be one of the best areas in the
Philippines for “muck” diving, which
describes an area where the seabed
is covered with a layer of sediment or
muck. This sediment is usually a mixture
of sand, gravel, silt, and a variety of
natural debris such as dead corals. While
the typical “Muck Dives” are certainly
not as attractive and colorful as most
coral reef dives, they offer an incredible
diversity of fascinating macro creatures.
Probably the biggest draw of Puerto
Galera is this type of dive where you can
expect to find a fascinating abundance
of critters displaying a vivid mix of colors
and demonstrating strange physical
accoutrements and jaw-dropping
abilities. If you are diving a macro site,
you would ordinarily expect to spend
most of your bottom time and precious
air, searching for critters that are masters
of camouflage and therefore hard to
find. Fortunately, our dive guides, Mike
Medina and Leo Daliposa, were wellversed
in finding the critters we had
come to see, which meant that we could
spend our time photographing and
observing.
Through the course of our 10-day visit,
we visited a few special muck dive sites
hidden away in the nearby protected
bays on the west side of the Sabang
peninsula. The first was Montani, a
fantastic muck dive site with depths
from 20-50 feet, located in the Batangas
Channel where there can be some
current. It is recommended that you use
a reef stick, to plant in the substrate to
help you stay in place to photograph or
just observe a subject once you find it.
While our guides scoured the sand and
rubble for hard-to-find trophy subjects
including the highly venomous blue
ring octopus, spiny seahorses, frogfish,
and nudibranchs (shell-less snails) of
various colors and sizes, we were able to
spend most of our time taking pictures
and observing. Montani is also one of
the sites where you can expect to find
colorful Mandarinfish coming out of their
dens at dusk to pair off for a spawning
dance in the water column.
A Variable neon nudibranch, Nembrotha kubaryana, perches on
the outer edge of the sheer Wall at the Verde Island Passage.
A Spiny SeaHorse, Hippocampus
histrix, uses its prehensile tail to
cling to its perch at the Montani
Muck Dive site.
A Warty Frogfish,
Antennarius maculatus,
waits for an unsuspecting
victim at to Monkey Beach.
25

Pairs of
Magnificent
Nudibranchs,
Chromodoris
magnifica, are
commonly
seen at
Sinandigan
Wall in
Puerto Galera.
A colorful Flamboyant
Cuttlefish, Metasepia pfefferi,
swims in the water column at
Secret Bay in Puerto Galera.
The other muck dive site we enjoyed was Secret
Bay, a bit deeper with depths between 35 and
60 feet. Macro photographers will delight in
frequent sightings of colorful nudibranchs,
frogfish, Flamboyant Cuttlefish, and a host of
other treasures waiting to be discovered. Divers
should stick close to the experienced dive
guides, who do the yeoman’s work of tracking
down the remarkable critters.
We discovered many other exceptional
dive sites scattered around the shoreline of
the Sabang Peninsula, which were mostly
combinations of coral reefs and muck. The
Scandi Divers House Reef is a sandy, rubblestrewn
dive site, in relatively shallow water.
This site offers a fascinating dive with lots of
hard and soft corals sprinkled with multi-hued
feather stars, hard corals, nudibranchs, moray
eels, and an amazing variety of clownfish in
their host anemones.
A little further to the east, you will come to the
La Laguna Point dive site, situated between
Big and Little La Laguna Beaches. There was so
much to see and photograph in this area that
we requested to return. There were several
smaller wrecks, including the remnants of the
St. Christopher Wreck, placed here to attract
marine life. The surrounding reef offers an
astounding abundance and variety of little
critters, including shrimp, nudibranchs, sea
moths, frogfish, cuttlefish, and lizardfish. The
ever-present current will carry divers through an
area dotted with quite a few lavishly appointed
coral heads. Sea turtles can usually be found
resting on the sand among the corals and near
the wreck sites.
A pair of greyface moray eels,
Gymnothorax thyrsoideus,
keep a watchful eye from the
entrance of their lair in the
Batangas Channel.
A School of Orbicular Batfish can usually be
found near the Alma Jane Wreck.
An Ocellaris Clownfish,
Amphiprion ocellarus,
swims within the
protective tentacles of
its host anemone near
Sabang Point.
26
In the Sabang Resort area, west of Sabang
Point, there are a few interesting wrecks. The
Alma Jane is a 115ft steel-hulled cargo ship that
was sunk a couple of decades ago to make an
artificial reef. The wreck sits upright on a sand
bottom at depths between 60 and 100 feet (12
to 30m). A mooring buoy attached to the aft
area provided easy access for divers. The bridge
has collapsed, and the prop has been removed,
but schools of large batfish and other fishes
congregate near the aft section. The interior
of the wreck has been cleared of obstructions
and divers can freely move about in the
interior, where they will encounter schools of
Cardinalfish and fusiliers. Green Sea Turtles and
schools of batfish provide excellent models for
wide-angle lenses.
27

There are also three smaller vessels, a steelhulled
yacht, and two smaller wooden
boats, located close to Sabang Point. The
surfaces of the wrecks and the surrounding
reefs are covered with soft corals and have
become a haven for macro subjects, that
include moray eels, Leaf Scorpionfish,
ornate ghost pipefish, and an amazing
assortment of nudibranchs. To maximize
your dive experience, bring a reef stick, a
narrow beam dive light, and perhaps even
a magnifying glass.
The sandy rubble areas near Sabang Point,
just minutes away by boat, are among the
best areas for close-up encounters with
Peacock Mantis Shrimp, a favorite find
among scuba divers. The Peacock Mantis
Shrimp is a very colorful predator that has
a rather impressive resume which includes
the ability to smash or spear their prey
with a lightning-fast ‘club-like’ appendage.
Studies have shown that they can strike
with a force like that of a .22 caliber bullet.
While these shrimps are normally very
reclusive, we had numerous encounters
with them out on the open at several sites
along the Sabang peninsula.
A yellow Leaf
Scorpionfish,
Taenianotus
triacanthus,
poses on the
reef at Kilima
Steps.
A Peacock Mantis Shrimp
rears up and poses for a
photo at LaLaguna Point.
There are also many excellent
dive sites to the east of Sabang
Point, including Monkey Beach,
West Escarceo, and Sinadigan
Wall. Monkey Beach is fairly deep,
dropping below 100 feet in some
places. Among the highlights are
a vertical wall, schooling fish, and
frequent encounters with green
sea turtles. There was also a bit of
a current in this area. Divers may
encounter stingrays, leatherjackets,
small schools of surgeonfish, eels,
and the occasional sea turtle. As
you make your way along the wall,
divers will run into the remains of
the Monkey Beach wreck, which was
another ship scuttled intentionally
to create an artificial reef. Schools of
batfish and snapper have now made
the wreck their home and are not at
all skittish around divers. Another
site, West Escarceo, offers depths of
10 to 100 feet (3 to 30 meters) and
is a favorite with photographers
because it has lots of beautiful
stony corals, large barrel sponges,
colorful crinoids, and sea fans.
Our excellent dive guides were
constantly pointing out some
fascinating critters as we made our way
through these sites. Sinandigan Wall,
located around the northeast corner
of the Sabang Peninsula, offered two
separate walls that started at depths of
about 45 feet and terraced deeper. Leaf
Scorpionfish and varieties of frogfish
seemed to like this terrain.
Verde Island Outing
One of the highlights of any Puerto
Galera Diving adventure is a day trip
to the walls located in the Verde Island
passage. We opted to take advantage
of a full day visit to Verde Island,
which is in the Verde Island Passage
that separates the islands of Luzon
and Mindoro. This island passage
has been identified as a site of the
highest marine biodiversity in the Coral
Triangle. Most of the endemic species
in the Philippines are found in this
area. It took about an hour to reach
the Verde Island Wall from our resort
in Puerto Galera, allowing us to take
in the awesome views of the Mindoro
Coastline.
As soon as we descended, the reef
came alive with fish in the water
column. We encountered clouds of
tiny orange and pink anthias, as well
as red-tooth triggerfish, filling the
water column, seemingly in constant
motion while feeding in the nutrientrich
water. Along the wall there was a
tapestry of color, formed by soft corals,
feather stars, large sea fans, and barrel
sponges, which literally covered the
reef surfaces. Schools of wide-mouth
mackerel, jacks, and tuna swept by in
the water column. We were careful to
take a close look at the surface of the
sheer wall, where we found colorful
nudibranchs, frogfish, anemonefish,
and many other amazing critters. On
a section of the sheer vertical wall, I
found a variable neon nudibranch,
which seemed to be leaning out over
the wall to sneak a peek into the abyss.
As we motored back to the Resort, we
chatted a little about which had been
our favorite dives during the trip. We
all marveled at the incredible diversity
that Puerto Galera offered, but we were
especially blown away by the weird
and wonderful macro world we had
witnessed.
An amorous pair of
Striped Mandarinfish,
Synchiropus splendidus,
emerge at dusk to spawn
at the Montani dive site.
A 6-inch Peacock Mantis Shrimp
scrambles across the open sand
bottom at La Laguna Pt,
in Puerto Galera.
Shannon
poses with a
bright yellow
Feather Star at
Sabang Point.
28
29

Skiing Out East
at Loon Mountain
Top Family Skiing Destination:
Exploring Loon Mountain on
the East Coast
It was early fall when my family and
I pondered our reunion ski trip. It
was the first time we planned a trip
without all four of us present because
my oldest daughter, Maddy, was in her
first semester of college in Charleston,
South Carolina. While I had her
blessing to choose the mountain for
the family, she made no secret of her
preferences.
"Dad,” Maddy said, "you know
how to pick them, so in order of
preference, I vote for Vail, then
Beaver Creek, then Keystone.”
All fantastic mountains with first-rate
resorts, and all of which make my short
30
To spend as much time bonding as skiing, Loon Mountain Resort in
New Hampshire scratches the itch that the Western resorts can’t.
Story and Photos by Adam Pitluk
list every time as well. But in the absence
of her big sister’s day-to-day presence at
home, my younger daughter, Lilly, made
her opinion known for our winter family
reunion.
“Dad,” she said, “we just finished
reading The Crucible in school. Can
we go to Salem?”
Somewhat of a history buff myself, this
sounded intriguing, as although I’ve
been to Boston, I’ve never been to the
infamous location of the witch trials just
30 minutes away. I had a dilemma: How
can I satisfy both daughters’ requests
without having to make a vacation
Sophie’s Choice? I called my buddy,
Dennis, who’s from Boston, and asked
if there were any ski resorts near Boston
worth their salt.
“There is one,” he said without
hesitation. “Loon Mountain Resort in
Lincoln, New Hampshire, is the best.
And I’ll take the Pepsi Challenge with
their terrain and atmosphere against
the big shots in Colorado any day.”
Really?
“Trust me.”
That was as ringing of an endorsement that
Dennis had ever given anything.
Our trip was planned.
A lone skier flies down
an empty slope at Loon
Mountain Resort in
Lincoln, New Hampshire.
Loon Mountain boasts
terrain for all skill levels.
Photo Courtesy of
Loon Mountain Resorts.
A WITCHY TIME IN SALEM
We flew to Boston two days before the
New Year and beelined it to Salem. Lilly
had her mental copy of The Crucible
and was rattling off the sites she wanted
to see. Unfortunately, I failed to check
availability in the middle of winter, and
virtually everything was closed. What
was open, however, was the annual
Frozen Fire Festival right downtown.
The Frozen Fire Festival is the kind of
event that makes you forget just how
bone-chilling Massachusetts is in winter,
especially for my Texas-born-and-raised
daughters. (Truth be told, it was even
bone-chilling for my Cleveland blood.)
But there are rentable heated igloos
on site, which provide a reprieve from
the cold. The experience itself is truly
singular, where winter’s bite is met headon
by the warmth of fire, community,
creativity, and about a gallon of hot
chocolate.
The “frozen” part speaks for itself: It’s
seriously cold. But the “fire” element
really makes Frozen Fire stand
apart. There’s something primal and
mesmerizing about watching fire dancers
twirl their blazing staffs against the
backdrop of snow-covered streets, or
seeing aerial acrobats gracefully twirl
through the air against the spooky
backdrop that is Salem.
What makes the festival so special,
though, isn’t just the spectacle. It’s
the sense of community that pulses
throughout. Salem’s small-town charm
shines through on every corner—locals,
families, and visitors all gathered
together, sharing food, music, and
laughter. The Frozen Fire Festival is a
celebration of winter, to be sure, but
it’s also a reminder of what makes New
England, and its people, so warm and
welcoming. This was the perfect preamble
for the New Hampshire skiing adventure,
which was one chilly evening away.
An acrobatic performer shows her talent for playing
with fire – with her feet! – at the Frozen Fire Festival
in Salem, Mass. The Frozen Fire Festival is an annual
event for families and couples that provides endless
entertainment like acrobatics, juggling and comedy.
31

Loon Mountain is majestic, especially by air. This aerial photo
of Loon Mountain shows the scope of the their 400 skiable
acres. The resort has 73 trails, 13 lifts, and three peaks.
Photo Courtesy of Loon Mountain Resorts.
For intermediate skiers, North Peak offers an inviting
mix of blue and easy black diamond runs, with wideopen
trails perfect for cruising. We had some of the best
family bonding moments on these runs—chatting as
we ski down, taking in the views, and appreciating the
fact that the mountain feels like it’s ours. There’s space,
there’s variety and there’s never that overwhelming sense
of competition that you sometimes feel when skiing at a
more crowded, high-profile resort.
Author Adam Pitluk (right), with daughters Maddy
(center) and Lilly (left) take a break on the Lower Bear
Claw run at Loon Mountain Resort.
And for those in the family who are seasoned skiers or
snowboarders, South Peak has some serious terrain to
challenge you. The black diamonds like Lower Twitcher
and Jobber are fast, steep, and exhilarating. On a powder
day, there’s nowhere else a skier would want to be.
32
The Drive That Makes
All the Difference
From the moment we crossed the
state line into the Granite State, I
could sense something special about
the place. The air was crisp, and the
mountain’s silhouette loomed gently
against the sky. A scenic two-hour
drive through most of New Hampshire
delivered us to Loon Mountain in
Lincoln.
To be clear, I’m not here to throw
shade on the Rockies—those towering,
majestic mountains have their rightful
place in the annals of skiing lore. But
anyone who’s ever spent a few days
schlepping through airports with ski
gear in tow knows how exhausting
it can be. Lines, delays, connections,
lost luggage—it’s not a stress-free way
to start a vacation, especially over the
New Year holiday, and while I’m all
for adventure, there’s something to be
said for the sheer simplicity of a quick
drive from Boston Logan International
Airport (much less treacherous than
Colorado’s I-70), an airport that most
cities can reach directly.
Compare that with a ski trip out to
the Rockies, where even the simplest
jaunt means hours of flying, followed
by another long drive on a mountain
switchback that regularly closes due to
inclement weather. A family vacation
should be about time together, not
time spent stressing that the weather
will hold for your drive. Loon
Mountain’s proximity to Boston means
the hassle of travel melts away, leaving
more time for the slopes and the
memories to take center stage
.
The Drive That Makes
All the Difference
I’ll admit, my family has experienced
the iconic resorts in the Rockies—
places where the vast, sweeping
terrain can be both awe-inspiring and
intimidating. And, yes, the skiing is
extraordinary, but so often, the sheer
scale of the place means we spend
more time trying to figure out where to
go than actually skiing.
This is where Loon Mountain stands
out. It’s got everything you need—
without the overwhelming sense of
scale that can come with some of the
bigger resorts out west. Loon is not
trying to be the biggest or the most
exclusive; it’s trying to be just right.
Whether you’re a beginner (like my wife
and youngest daughter), an intermediate
skier (like Maddy), or an expert (like
Daddy), Loon has terrain for everyone
and more importantly, green runs like
Upper Bear Claw and Grand Junction
that connect all of the levels. There’s no
need to navigate across vast, sprawling
areas to find the right run. Instead, you
can focus on enjoying your time on the
mountain and making the most of each
run and from time to time, break off
from the green to hit some challenging
blues and blacks.
Loon is divided into three peaks: Loon
Peak, North Peak, and South Peak.
The layout is perfect for families. If
you’ve got little ones or beginner skiers,
the terrain at Loon Peak is gentle
and forgiving. It’s ideal for building
confidence without feeling rushed or
pressured. It’s also the type of mountain
that feels safe. There’s not the same chaos
you find at large resorts in the Rockies,
where the lines are longer, the runs
are more challenging and the feeling
of being part of a herd can sometimes
detract from the overall experience.
Unlike some of the massive resorts in the Rockies, Loon
has a great balance between relaxed cruising and serious
adventure. The mountain never feels overcrowded, no
matter the season, and there’s a sense of exploration on
each run. You’re never hunting for that elusive piece
of untouched snow—there’s always a corner of the
mountain just waiting to be discovered
.
A snowboarder makes a run named The Harder Way look easy at Loon Mountain Resort
Photo courtesy of Loon Mountain Resort
33

THE MOUNTAIN CLUB:
A HOME AWAY FROM HOME
The Pitluk family (from right: Kimberly, Maddy, Adam
and Lilly) take a breather on the Kancamagus
8 high-speed chair lift at Loon Mountain Resort.
Maddy Pitluk (left) and Lilly prepare to ring in the New
Year at The Mountain Club at Loon Mountain;
The Pitluk family taking a load off in a vintage
gondola car at The Mountain Club; Maddy, Adam
and Lilly on the Kancamagus 8 high-speed chair lift
At the end of the day, the skiing is just
one part of the equation. The true test
of any family vacation is how it makes
you feel when you come off the slopes.
And that’s where The Mountain Club
on Loon really shines.
There are plenty of ski-in, ski-out
resorts in the White Mountains, but
few of them manage to combine
comfort, convenience, and charm the
way The Mountain Club does. Located
right at the base of Loon Mountain, it’s
a cozy, welcoming place where comfort
feels effortless. You don’t have to deal
with crowded parking lots or spend
your time waiting for a shuttle—just
park your car (if you must), walk
inside, and you’re practically on the
slopes already.
The rooms themselves are spacious
and equipped with everything you
need for a relaxing stay, including
full kitchens and showers with piping
hot water and consistent pressure.
For families, The Mountain Club has
everything from studios to one- and
two-bedroom suites, which are perfect
for spreading out and enjoying a little
bit of downtime. The best part? You
don’t need to leave the resort to eat—
The Black Diamond Grille is right onsite,
serving up delicious comfort food
and a selection of local New England
dishes that hit the spot after a long day
of skiing. We stayed over New Year's,
and the all-you-can-eat New Year's
Eve buffet, complete with bottomless
shrimp and raw oysters, isn’t even a
thing out west.
But it’s not just the convenience and
comfort that makes The Mountain
Club special. It’s the vibe. Unlike many
of the more exclusive, high-end resorts
in the Rockies, The Mountain Club
feels approachable. It’s a place where
34
families are encouraged to be themselves,
where kids can safely play in the heated
indoor pool, and where parents can
indulge in a much-needed soak in the
hot tub. And you likely won’t see the
teens – they’ll mob up with others they
meet at the pool.
Loon’s relaxed atmosphere carries over
to The Mountain Club. There’s no need
to worry about overpriced meals or
valet parking. Instead, everything feels
easy. After all, it’s not the luxury that
makes a vacation memorable (even
though that’s there, too): it’s the shared
moments, the laughter, the ease with
which you can move between fun and
relaxation.
THE UNMATCHED APPEAL
OF THE NORTHEAST
So, why the East, and why Loon? The answer, to me,
is simple: Loon is a place where the whole family can
enjoy skiing on their own terms, without the stress and
pretension of many Western resorts. It’s accessible. It’s
affordable, and it’s most certainly not trying to impress
you with its size or exclusivity. Rather, it impresses you
with its balance and family appeal.
When you combine it with the comfort and
convenience of The Mountain Club, you have a family
ski vacation that’s as stress-free as it is unforgettable.
Throw in a night in Salem and the Frozen Fire Festival
for good measure, and you have a lasting memory, one
the college kid can take back with her.
The Rockies are magnificent, but when it comes to a ski
trip that prioritizes family, fun, and ease, the East is the
clear winner.
Trust Dennis.
Adam and Maddy mugging
for the camera at the base
of Loon Mountain Resort.
35

Plaza de la Independencia, also
known as Plaza Grande, anchors
the historic heart of Quito, a
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The plaza was the site of key
events in Ecuador's fight for
independence and is surrounded
by important landmarks,
including the Presidential Palace.
I’m 9,350 feet above sea level, surrounded by the Andes
Mountains, and in a country at the center of the world, on
the equator. Ecuador spans approximately 109,000 square
miles, roughly the size of Nevada. The small country with
an outsized contribution to astronomy, cartography, and
evolutionary science, ranks as one of the world’s top ten
most biodiverse countries. I’m searching for serendipitous
experiences with Ecuador’s people and places, connecting
through the shared language of craft.
Each day unfolds as a mystery decoded by clues that lead me
to Ecuador’s safekeepers of traditions on this Hero’s Journey,
orchestrated by Art Experiences Ecuador. The Hero’s Journey
connects travelers with indigenous artisans and craftspeople
working in cities and mountain villages to preserve and
promote their ancestral skills and traditions. It’s an invitation
to explore the connections between culture and creativity to
better understand worldviews, values, traditions, and rituals
through craft.
36
Crafting a Unique, Cultural Journey Through
Ecuador
Story & Photos by Karen LeBlanc @The_Design_Tourist
“For those travelers willing to connect with artisans and learn
crafts, we recommend keeping an open mind and respecting
the traditions and knowledge that support their identity
construction,” says Monica Paez Espinosa, my travel guide
with Art Experiences Ecuador.
Quito, Ecuador’s capital, is the launching point for my
Hero’s Journey, which melds the element of surprise with
curated visits to artisan workshops participating in a
micro-entrepreneurship program. “It’s like a treasure hunt
because we create the circumstances for you to have a
transformational travel experience and ascend to a higher level
of consciousness,” explains Sebastian Vergara, CEO of Art
Hotels Ecuador.
Art Hotels Ecuador cultivates and trains these artisan
entrepreneurs to capitalize on their skills and earn a living
wage. “The idea is to dignify and sustain the country’s culture
bearers with fair payments so every entrepreneur makes a
living from their skills and ancestral knowledge,” Monica
explains.
Alberto Avila, owner of El Caretero in Quito, handmakes paper masks that Ecuadorians wear for celebrations, spiritual rituals, and
socio-political commentary. The walls of Avila’s workshop display dozens of faces staring back, mythological beings from Andean
cultures, and colorful devil masks that symbolize Ecuadorian resistance against colonialism and assimilation.
y first clue leads me to mask-masker Alberto
Avila, owner of El Caretero. Alberto handmakes
paper masks deeply rooted in indigenous, colonial,
and Afro-Ecuadorian cultures. Ecuadorians wear
these whimsical masks for celebrations, spiritual
rituals, and socio-political commentary.
I’m about to discover the cathartic power of mask-making as Alberto
instructs me to pick out an unpainted paper mache face that fits my
energy and personality. He asks me a series of thought-provoking
questions, and I paint my answers on the mask using abstract designs.
What begins to manifest is an unexpected portal to my thoughts and
emotions. After painting my feelings, Alberto tells me to stomp on
my mask and release all those thoughts holding me back. He then sets
the mask on fire and yells, “Nunca mas!” which means never again in
Spanish. I repeat: “Nunca mas” and feel a powerful emotional release
and calming peacefulness. The walls of Avila’s workshop display dozens
of faces staring back, mythological beings from Andean cultures, and
colorful devil masks that symbolize Ecuadorian resistance against
colonialism and assimilation. The masks embody energy and stories
that forge an emotional connection with Ecuador’s history and heritage.
Quito’s historic center is one of Ecuador's five UNESCO World Heritage
sites. A stroll around the city’s historic streets in their original layout
conveys a sense of 16th-century daily life, populated with churches,
convents, landmark buildings, and public squares. Quito’s historic
center holds some of the best-preserved examples of Colonial and
Baroque architecture in Latin America, including the Church of La
Compañía de Jesús, San Francisco Church and Convent, and Basilica
del Voto Nacional.
Alberto lights Karen’s mask on fire and yells,
“Nunca mas!” which means never again in
Spanish, to release negative emotions and
thoughts.
37

The Virgin of
Quito watches
over Quito,
standing 148
feet tall and
comprised
of more than
4000 aluminum
pieces. The
sculpture
sits looking
southward on
Panecillo Hill.
s I explore Quito, the towering Virgin of Quito
watches over me, standing 148 feet tall and
comprised of more than 4000 aluminum
pieces. She looks southward, and I’ve seen
her from every vantage point except North,
perhaps unconsciously acknowledging an
Ecuadorian superstitious belief that if you
go North, the Virgin can’t watch over you.
The next day, I drive along the Pan-American Highway
from Quito to Otavalo in Northern Ecuador. The
two-hour drive passes through Cayambe, a city with
large greenhouses growing roses. Ecuador is a leading
producer of roses, prized for their long stems and
bright blooms due to the region’s seasonless climate of
cooler nights and consistent sunlight.
Weaving requires years to master at the pace and
output of my mentors Josefina and Manuel, who weave
dozens of belts, ponchos, and bracelets daily to meet
the demands of their retail business. I find the entire
process challenging and frustrating. I keep losing track
of which numbered foot pedal to press; however, with
patience, a pattern emerges, resulting in a bracelet I
will wear with a smile and admiration for this ancestral
skill.
From traditions to the table, Ecuadorian culture bearers
also express their ancestral roots through cuisine and
cooking techniques. My next clue alludes to this fact.
Kevin hands me a little wooden spoon known as a
“cuchara” and a note that says, “The Gods grant the
harvest bliss by the fire of the tulpa; you’ll need this.”
Karen with Claudia Fuerez, owner of Kawsaymi,
picking herbs in her garden to make a traditional
Andean dish.
38
Kevin Burga was
Karen’s guide in
Otavalo, Ecuador.
He is Kichwa,
the largest
indigenous group
in Ecuador.
Kichwa men
don’t cut their
hair; only their
mothers and
wives can touch
it. The men wear
their long hair in
a single braid.
Josefina Morales weaves using a backstrap
loom attached to her body. Andes Indigenous
communities use this ancient portable weaving
method to create intricate, colorful patterns.
Josefina and her husband Manuel, also an
accomplished weaver, own Equator Face in
Otavalo, a textile workshop that teaches the skill
of using a foot pedal loom.
Otavalo sits approximately 8,307 feet above sea
level in the Andean highlands, where volcanoes and
lakes blanket the landscape. The city is home to a
concentration of Kichwa people, the largest indigenous
group in Ecuador. My guide, Kevin Burga, is Kichwa,
instantly identifiable by his signature long hair worn
in a braid. The Kichwa trace their ancestry back to the
Incas, who once ruled the region until the Spanish
conquest of 1533.
The Kichwa are skilled weavers making textiles for
commercial and cultural value. Weavers Josefina and
Manuel Morales, a husband and wife team, are one
of the region’s retail success stories. Their workshop,
Equator Face, makes products, including luggage
straps, bracelets, and blankets for retail sale, and they
teach their skills. On the morning I arrive, Manuel is
spooling colored yarn while Josefina weaves using a
backstrap loom attached to her body. Andes Indigenous
communities use this ancient portable weaving method
to create intricate, colorful patterns.
Manuel shows me how to spool yarn by spinning the
wheel with one hand and threading the colored wool
with my other hand. Josefina teaches me how to thread
the looms, stringing the colored yarn around these
large wheels. It’s a dance that requires fluid motions
alternating up and down without tangling the yarn. It
takes up to 400 passes to set up the spool for the loom.
They teach me to weave using a foot-pedal-powered
loom following a numbered pattern for each distinctive
design. With each pass, Manuel pushes a wooden
lever to lock the thread in place before changing the
direction of the following thread pass.
A dirt road leads to an adobe home on the outskirts
of Otavalo that doubles as a restaurant and teaching
kitchen. Claudia and her young daughter welcomed
me to Kawsaymi, in their native Kichwa language,
and offered a welcome drink of fermented corn
called Chicha. Claudia invites me to wrap my hair
in the customary cooking scarf and put on an apron
for a cooking lesson using ancestral techniques and
ingredients in her garden. Together, we pick herbs
to make chicken chimichurri, as Claudia shares
generational knowledge about herbs and medicinal
plants.
We prepare the ingredients in her modern kitchen and
head into an adobe room to cook the chicken using
a tulpa, a large metal pot over an open flame. Guinea
pigs share the same space as the tulpa, scampering
around as Claudia throws them scraps from our meal
preparation. I thought it odd that I was cooking in a
pit populated with guinea pigs until I learned that the
guinea pig is an Ecuadorian delicacy. Claudia fattens
them up to serve up in future meals. My final task was
hand-grinding corn on the millstone to make sweet
empanadas. The garden-to-table cooking lesson ends
with lunch in Claudia’s restaurant, open to the public by
appointment. I savor each bite with a new appreciation
for the time, technique, and manual labor required of
Kichwa cuisine.
I say goodbye to Claudia as she hands me another
clue, a small piece of bamboo with the riddle, “Deep in
the forest, I was grown, and now music is heard when
I am blown.” I surmise that music lessons are in my
future, although I can’t figure out what the piece of reed
symbolizes.
Karen learns to cook on a tulpa, a large metal
pot over an open flame, at Kawsaymi in Otavalo,
Ecuador. Claudia Fuerez, owner of Kawsaymi,
teaches ancestral Andean cooking with ingredients
harvested from her garden.
Various trinkets attached to clues that Karen received
along her Hero’s Journey. Each day unfolds as a
series of riddles leading to different artisan workshops
preserving and promoting Ecuador’s legacy of craft.
39

head to Peguche, a short drive from Otavalo,
known for Andean music and the production
of traditional instruments, including pan flutes
crafted of reed. Murals depicting musicians line
the streets, paying homage to the region’s legacy.
Segundo Lema welcomes me inside Taita Gundo
Casa De Musica Andina, filled with all sizes and
configurations of reed flutes.
My Hero’s Journey continues in the
Andean Highlands of Southern Ecuador
as I head to Cuenca, 193 miles south
of Quito. Cuenca is known as “the
Athens of Ecuador” because of its rich
intellectual and artistic history. The city’s
historic center also holds a UNESCO
World Heritage Site designation.
40
Murals line the streets of Peguche, Ecuador, depicting
Andean musicians and paying homage to the region’s
legacy. Many skilled musicians in Peguche make and
play wind instruments made of reed.
The workshop of Arte Nayia is filled with
dreamcatchers hanging from the ceiling and available
for purchase. Each dreamcatcher is a unique creation
and originates from Native American culture
Monica and her daughter Nayia own Arte Nayia in
Peguche, which employs local indigenous women to
collect natural materials to make dreamcatchers. Arte
Nayia teaches visitors how to make dreamcatchers
and sells the protective amulets in its showroom.
Segundo asks me to produce my bamboo clue and
shows me how to make a Kukuyai whistle. I glue on
a mouthpiece, wrap the whistle in colored yarn, and
attempt to play. The Kukuyai chirps in my hands;
however, Segundo can blow a beautiful melody into its
mouthpiece.
The accomplished musician is a master of many
Andrean musical instruments, including panpipes,
bamboo flute-like instruments, chajchas, rattles made
from goat hooves, and the bombo, a drum made from
hollowed-out logs and animal skins. Before we say
goodbye, Segundo performs several traditional Andean
songs, including Sanjuanito, a happy Ecuadorian
rhythm played during celebrations. He hands me the
next clue of my trip, a feather with a note that reads,
“Has a tail but does not move, has wings that do not
spread, its net does not catch insects, but it does protect
against certain dead.”
Many rituals and traditions are a fusion of cultures,
such as the dreamcatcher, a traditional Native American
craft that Ecuadorians adopted for protection. Many
Ecuadorians hang dreamcatchers in their households to
trap negative energy and attract positive energy.
Monica and Nayia are mother and daughter of Kichwa
origin and entrepreneurs who own Arte Nayia in
Peguche. The dreamcatcher store and workshop
provide jobs for many local women in the Kichwa
community who harvest natural materials used in
the craft, including willow vines for circular frames,
feathers, and beads. They taught me how to make a
dreamcatcher weaving a net to catch negative energy
and send it through the hole in the middle. Net stitching
is delicate work requiring a lot of patience to position
each stitch so that the net snaps into place after pulling
the final thread. To finish my dreamcatcher, I pick out
energy stones to attach to hanging feathers that disperse
the good energy. No two dreamcatchers are alike, as
evidenced by the variety hanging from the ceiling, but
they share the same essential elements as a protective
amulet.
My guide, Wilson Galarza, takes me to
Parque Calderón, which anchors the
historic heart of Cuenca. Rising above
colonial buildings, the blue domes of
the New Cathedral of Cuenca serve
as my visual compass while exploring
Calle Larga, which is lined with cafés,
restaurants, bars, and artisan shops. The
Romanesque and Gothic-style church,
built in 1885, serves as a city landmark
and a muse to many artists.
People-watching in Cuenca’s historic
center reveals a popular accessory
many Ecuadorians wear daily: a straw
hat to shield from the harsh sun at the
equator. Ecuadorians call them toquilla
hats; however, the rest of the world
knows them as Panama Hats. Cuenca
is home to thousands of skilled weavers
contributing to the city’s claim to fame
as the top producer of Panama hats.
Panama hat weaving is recognized as
an “Intangible Cultural Heritage of
Humanity” by UNESCO.
Homero Ortega is one of the country’s
largest Panama hat producers and
offers public tours of its factory and
showroom. Artisans at the factory offer
weaving demonstrations using toquilla
straw in various thicknesses. A thinner
straw yields a tighter weave and a higher
priced, better quality Panama hat. I go
behind the scenes to watch as artisans
dye, shape, and style each hat with
different embellishments, from bows to
bands. The Panama hat is a symbol of
Ecuadorian cultural pride even though
it's named after the country of Panama,
where it was first exported and worn by
workers constructing the Panama Canal.
The blue porcelain tile domes of the New Cathedral of Cuenca, officially
called Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción, are one of the most iconic
features of Cuenca, Ecuador. The cathedral was built between 1885 and 1975
and blends Romanesque and Gothic Revival architectural styles.
Cuenca’s famous flower market in Plazoleta del Carmen is a popular
tourist draw for its affordable fresh flowers, including Ecuador’s worldfamous
roses. National Geographic Magazine ranks the flower market as
one of the top ten outdoor flower markets globally.
Panama Hat weaving is recognized as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage
of Humanity” by UNESCO. Homero Ortega in Cuenca, Ecuador, is one of
the country’s largest Panama hat producers and offers public tours of its
factory and showroom.
41

Cuenca is Ecuador’s top Panama hat producer, and many
locals wear Panama hats to protect themselves from the
harsh sun at the equator. Cuenca is also home to skilled
weavers, many belonging to the Kichwa indigenous group.
The highest quality
and most expensive
Panama hats, a symbol of
Ecuadorian craftsmanship,
are a labor of love. It takes
months to make these hats,
with artisans meticulously
weaving softer, thinner,
tightly woven toquilla
straw that looks like fabric.
The dedication and skill
involved in this process are
a testament to the artisans'
commitment to their craft.
José Encalada is a master ceramicist known for
signature black pottery, using his invented naturally
dyed technique. He teaches pottery making at his
workshop in Cuenca, using a kick-wheel to mold
and sculpt clay.
s I purchased a Panama hat that spoke to my
personality, Wilson handed me a clue inside a
small black ceramic pot. It reads: “A reward on
the fly, your castle in the sky has been carved
out of where the lava lies.” This riddle
completely stumps me until I approach
Convención del 45, a Cuenca neighborhood
traditionally dedicated to pottery making.
Jose Encalada welcomes me to his workshop, José
Encalada & Hijos, in his multigenerational family home.
Jose is a master ceramicist known for his ancestral
techniques and signature black pottery, using a naturally
dyed technique he invented.
Jose works with clay from the Amazon jungle and
demonstrates the traditional way of prepping the clay for
the pottery wheel. He swings a large wooden mallet to
crush the clay into powder and then mixes the powder
with water. Today, a mechanized grinder does the job
for Jose. I’m curious to learn Jose’s trade secret of crafting
black pottery, so he offers to show me by firing a red clay
bowl at 900 degrees and then burying it in sawdust, where
a chemical reaction turns the clay black. The pottery
wheel technique preceding this magic trick-like moment
is what I seek to master.
The following day, I head into the Andes mountains
to San Bartolomé, a mountain village in the Andean
highlands approximately 19 miles southeast of Cuenca.
San Bartolomé is home to Ruta de las Guitarras ("Guitar
Route"), a cultural and artisanal designation highlighting
the region’s rich tradition of handcrafted guitar-making.
San Bartolomé, Ecuador, a picturesque mountain village
in the Andean highlands, is home to the Guitar Route. This
cultural and artisanal designation highlights the region’s skilled
artisans who craft high-quality handmade guitars. The village,
approximately 12 miles from Cuenca, is dotted with colonialstyle
houses and artisan workshops, adding to its charm.
Jose Uyaguari is a 4th generation guitar
maker and owner of Taller Uyaguari, a
small workshop producing handcrafted
guitars from locally sourced wood. Jose
is one of the region's last guitar makers, a
skill becoming obsolete because it’s hard
to earn a living. Each guitar requires
more than a week of labor as Jose sands
the wood into its acoustical properties,
crafts the guitar body, and inlays the
colorful, intricate designs by hand. He
says his profit is approximately $70 a
guitar, which makes his craft a labor of
love rather than an economically viable
endeavor.
“When we visit the artisans, we always
pay them a fee for their time and
knowledge. Through tourist visits, we
offer a direct selling channel for their
products to keep these traditions alive,”
Wilson explains.
The US dollar is Ecuador's official
currency, making it convenient for US
travelers to purchase handcrafted items
in small workshops and markets. I
picked out a handcrafted guitar for my
son, who plays and performs. It’s one
of many items made with meaning by
Ecuadorian artisans that I will cherish as
family keepsakes.
In Kichwa, the expression of gratitude
is "Yupaychani," meaning "thank you."
I end my Hero’s journey with deep
gratitude to Ecuadorians who opened
their hearts, homes, and workshops
to share their traditions and skills.
Ecuadorians are among the most
welcoming people I’ve met throughout
my international travels. They take great
pride in their hospitality, often greeting
me with traditional welcome drinks
made from local herbs and fruits as part
of their customs. Ecuador taught me
tangible and unexpected lessons about
spirituality, wisdom, and worldviews.
I return home, free of preconceived
notions and a deeper understanding of
Ecuador’s history, heritage, and people.
Guitar maker Jose Uyaguari’s workshop and showroom in San Bartolomé,
Ecuador. Jose Uyaguari is a 4th generation guitar maker and owner of
Taller Uyaguari, a small workshop producing handcrafted guitars from
locally sourced wood. Jose is one of the region's last guitar makers, a skill
becoming obsolete because it’s hard to earn a living.
Jose sands the wood into its acoustical properties, shapes the guitar
body, and inlays the colorful, intricate designs by hand. He says each
guitar takes a week or more to handcraft.
My handmade guitar
by Jose Uyaguari, a
4th generation guitar
maker in San Bartolomé.
I purchased the guitar
as a gift for my son in
honor the talents of two
individuals from different
cultures with a shared
passion for guitar music.
42
43

You can see the Bourtzi from this vantage point
high on the ramparts of the Palamidi Castle.
Two landmarks built by the Venetians.
Discover the
Peloponnese Peninsula
A Historic Adventure through Time
Story and Photos by Jeanne Neylon Decker
No working boats, only
pleasure craft dock
at Nafplio's beautiful
harbor. We saw
sailboats from as far
away as Sweden and
Wales.
A riot of blooming wildflowers amidst the ruins of
ancient civilizations, sunny skies, warm weather, and
best of all, far fewer tourists competing to see the
extraordinary sights that Greece has to offer, make
Spring the best time to visit. Our original plan was an
April trip to the Greek islands, but we were a month
too early. Most hotels weren’t even open yet. History
buffs and mythology fans, we weren’t giving up on
Greece and chose a road trip around the Peloponnese
Peninsula instead.
Though unfamiliar to many Americans, Nafplio, the
country’s first capital city, is less than a two-hour
drive from Athens and a favorite weekend getaway
for city dwellers. With its rich history, Venetian fort
and castle, wonderful museums, and important
archeological sites nearby, this charming seaside city
is where we began our Peloponnese adventure.
We chose a boutique hotel in a former sea captain’s
home as our base. The busy harbor, lined not with
working boats, but luxury yachts and other pleasure
craft, enticing shops, and open-air restaurants with
fresh fish on offer, was a five-minute walk in one
direction. Syntagma Square, the center of the historic
old town with museums, beautiful churches, and
more restaurants and shops was five minutes the
opposite way.
Sunday afternoons
are perfect for a
stroll and a leisurely
lunch near the
Nafplio harbor.
Where History Was Made
Syntagma or Constitution Square, remains the center of public and
political life in Nafplio and it was here that the citizenry rose up and
demanded independence from the Ottoman Empire. Standing in
the center of the square you are surrounded by several of modern
Greece’s most important buildings including the former mosque
used as the country’s first Parliament and the homes of Greece’s
first Governor Ioannis Kapodisrias, and War of Independence hero
Theodoros Koloktronis. Nafplio’s
Archeological Museum, housed in a 1713 Venetian building, forms
the Western side of the Square. There are monuments, plaques and
a War Museum proudly proclaiming the important role Nafplio’s
citizens played in Greece’s War of Independence. The Square is a
popular meeting place, lined with lively cafes and restaurants.
While you’re in the historic center, enjoy a leisurely stroll through
the pedestrian-only shopping streets. Visit one of the beautiful
Greek Orthodox churches here, like St. George’s Cathedral with
both Byzantine and Venetian 16th century architecture. On Odos
Kapodisriou, named for the first Governor, you’ll find St. Spyridon,
the small church where he was murdered by political rivals.
Greece's first
governor met
his untimely end
at the hands of
political rivals
here at St.
Spyridon.
44
45

The Conquerors
Legend has it that Nafplio was founded by the sea god
Poseidon’s grandson. Over the centuries the city was
captured and ruled by Byzantines, Franks, Venetians, and
Turks before Greece won independence in 1830. These
conquerors have all left their mark on Nafplio’s culture,
architecture, and cuisine.
The Venetians were responsible for two of Nafplio’s bestknown
and most visible landmarks—the Bourtzi and
Palamidi Castle, both open to the public. On arrival, you’ll
see a small, fortified island in Nafplio’s harbor. Bourtzi
means island fortress in Turkish, but it was originally named
Castello dello Soglio by the Venetians who built it on the
islet of St. Theodoroi in 1471 to protect the city and harbor
from invading Ottomans. Take a 10-minute boat ride from
the harbor to visit the Bourtzi. Extremely windy weather on
the day we planned to visit kept us away.
The Palamidi Castle, one of the best-preserved in Greece,
looms 709 feet above the city. It was captured by the Turks
only one year after its completion in 1715, ending the
Venetians’ second occupation of Nafplio. The castle has
spectacular views over the city and the sea, whether you
choose to climb the 847 steps to reach it (some locals claim
999 steps), or drive, as we did. Wander the rooms, cells, and
secret passageways and stop at St. Andrew’s Chapel to light
a candle. Bring a picnic and soak up the sea air, sunshine,
and panoramic views. Look for the rocky beach far below.
Even though the water was cold, swimmers were enjoying
a dip while sunbathers took advantage of the lovely Spring
weather. Like most of the archeological sites we visited, the
Castle is not accessible to mobility-challenged visitors.
The Archeological Museum of Nafplio is one of the city’s top
sites and boasts exhibits that date back to the Paleolithic
era. Pottery, clay and bronze seals, marble figurines, and
other priceless antiquities, some more than 5,000 years
old, await in this impressive building originally meant as a
warehouse for the Venetian fleet. Clay hearths from 3,200-
2,100 BC, stone and bone tools, jewelry, anthropomorphic
clay figures, and some of the earliest handmade Neolithic
clay vases are displayed, giving us a glimpse into what life
was like then.
The Venetians built this island fortress to protect the city
from the Ottomans. The Turks captured Nafplio in 1540,
were ousted by the Venetians in 1685, and retook the city
in 1715. Today the Bourtzi is a tourist attraction.
Built by the Venetians
and conquered by the
Ottomans a year later in
1715, the Palamidi Castle
is visible from nearly
everywhere in Nafplio,
including the public beach.
These figurines
were discovered at
the archeological
site at Tiryns and
date to 6th-5th
century BC.
No Worries
It’s common to see Greek men toying with a rhythmically
clacking string of beads. These are komboloi---worry
beads--- and Nafplio has a unique museum dedicated
to them. Komboloi became popular during the Turkish
occupation but the use of beads for prayer, mediation,
and to ward off evil can be traced to the 8th century
BC. Always strung in odd numbers, the beads are
traditionally barrel-shaped and made from amber,
carnelian, horn, bone (buffalo and camel are popular)
semi-precious stones, ivory, or olive wood. Along with
komboloi, the museum has a spectacular collection of
beads dating from 1550 to 1950 including Muslim prayer
beads brought back by the Crusaders and converted to
rosary beads, and Hindu and Buddhist meditation beads.
No photos were allowed in the Museum.
Because Nafplio is closely associated with komboloi,
there are shops selling beads of varying quality
everywhere. I liked Amber House at 12 Vos.
Konstantinou, which carries locally crafted komboloi.
Natural materials make the most satisfying sounds and
are meant to soothe, owner Angelika told me. She had
me hold several komboloi to find the most comfortable
string and listen to the sounds the beads made before
purchasing.
Wildflowers bloom amidst the ruins of this once great
settlement at Tiryns. Artifacts from the site are on
display at the Archeological Museum in Nafplio.
Greek
worry
beads, or
komboloi,
have been
popular
since the
Ottomans
ruled
Nafplio.
Tiryns and Hercules
In 468 BC the ancient city of Tiryns was sacked by
neighboring Argos. Today, wildflowers, poppies, and
chamomile bloom among the remaining stone foundations
of the once-thriving kingdom. Climb the stone steps to the
upper ramparts and use your imagination to see where
the palace once stood, as well as homes and shops in this
community of 15,000. Fun fact: Hercules’ mother (Greeks call
him Heracles), Alcmene, was the Queen of Tiryns.
If you plan to spend several days in Nafplio and explore
nearby archeological sites, buy the 20 Euro three-day
combination ticket at Palamidi Castle or the Archeological
Museum. It includes the Mycenae Archeological Site
and Museum, the Byzantine Museum at Argolis (Argos),
the Tiryns Archeological Site, the Nafplio Archeological
Museum, Palamidi Castle, and the Asini Archeological Site.
46
47

Mycenae and a
Scandalous Story
One of the most important archeological sites in the world is
perched high between two hills 30 minutes from Nafplio—home
to the once mighty Mycenean civilization. This area has been
inhabited since the 7th millennium BC, but the ruins here date
from the late Bronze Age (1,350 to 1,200 BC). Excavation of the
vast site began in 1876, funded by a German businessman with a
penchant for Homerian heroes on a quest to find the burial site of
Agamemnon.
Legend has it that the conquering hero returned home from war
to find his wife Clytemnestra had taken up with Aegisthus, his
cousin. Together they stabbed him to death in the bath, partly in
revenge for sacrificing her daughter to ensure favorable winds
for the Greeks as they sailed to Troy. The lovers are buried in giant
beehive tombs, side by side, in the fields below the citadel. You’ll
have to drive up the road and hike a bit to find Agamemnon’s larger,
but solitary resting place. Don’t miss these ancient architectural
wonders with their spectacular domes!
Walk inside
Agamemnon's
phenomenal
tholos, or
beehive,
tomb- an
architectural
wonder.
Pieces of
the sculpted
facade are
on display
at the British
Museum in
London and
the National
Archeological
Museum in
Athens. Grave
robbers make
it impossible
to know what
treasures he
may have been
interred with.
It's a long climb to the top of the ancient theater at Epidaurus. Known for its outstanding acoustics,
it still hosts performances today. And yes, you can hear every word spoken at the bottom!
A Healing Place
Mycenae is on the tourist route and there were busloads the
morning we visited. The often-photographed Lions Gate is at the
entrance and selfie-seekers can create a bottleneck. Be prepared to
be awed as you follow the pathway up through the Cyclopean walls
where you’ll find the ruined palaces, temples, royal burial circles,
cistern, treasury, and fortifications. Note: The path is paved in some
places and rocky dirt in others, making walking difficult for those
with mobility challenges.
Whether you visit the Mycenae Museum before or after the
archeological site is a personal preference, as long as you see it.
More than 2,500 amazing treasures including fine gold works like
Agamemnon’s exquisite death mask, everyday items like pottery,
weapons, figurines, jewelry, and frescoes from the archeological
site showcase the life and afterlife of the ancient Myceneans from
the Bronze Age to the Hellenistic Era
.
Many of the treasures in the Mycenae Museum were
excavated from the Royal Burial Circle including gold
death masks, weapons, jewelry and silver and gold cups.
The famous Lions Gate is a
highlight at ancient Mycenae.
The archeological site of
Mycenae is one of the most
important in the world.
These
enormous
stones are a
hallmark of
Cyclopean
architecture.
It was thought
that only
creatures as
great as the
cyclops could
have built
with stones
this size, not
mortal men.
Agamemnon’s death mask is a splendid
example of the fine gold work the
Myceneans were known for.
This 13th century bowl is among the everyday
objects on display at the Byzantine Museum in
Argos, giving us a glimpse into life here.
Ouch! You'll find these iron reinforcements for
sandals at the Nafplio Archeological Museum.
Ancient Epidaurus and the Sanctuary of Asclepius were known as a curative
place. Asclepius was the most important healing god in antiquity. Today the site
draws visitors primarily for its theater, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known
for its perfect acoustics. Built around 340 BC, the Greek theater, which was
expanded by the Romans to seat up to 14,000, is one of the best preserved in
the world and is still used for performances. Climb up the steep stone steps to
the top and listen to the “orators” below. After, head out to the sanctuary where
you can visit temples, the gymnasium, and the enkoimeteria- a large hall where
visitors would sleep and wait for the gods to come to them in their dreams with
health advice. There is also a small museum with sculptures and other excavated
artifacts.
Byzantium
Snakes were the only thing on my mind as we followed the groundskeeper
who, armed with a weedwhacker, cleared the tall grass between placards in the
ancient agora, or marketplace, at Argos. Located right in the town, the ruins of
Roman baths and the theater complex are across a busy street. They’re worth
seeing, though there is little signage. The Byzantine Museum, housed in the
historic Kapodistria Barracks, focuses on private, public, and religious life here,
from 324 AD until 1453 AD. Everyday objects, pottery, sculpture, weapons, and
religious artifacts that belonged to residents of one of the oldest continuously
inhabited cities in the world gave us a fascinating peek into the past.
Nafplio and the amazing archeological sites nearby filled us with wonder
and sparked our interest in returning to this spectacular region for a deeper
exploration of these ancient civilizations. Our road trip continued to Kalamata,
Patras, Galaxidi, Delphi, and finally, Athens—a city we could have spent a month
exploring. Those who choose the Peloponnese Peninsula as their destination, as
we did, will be generously rewarded. We’ll visit the islands another time!
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Practicalities
Nafplio is an easy drive from Athens,
but country roads can be winding and
narrow, especially in the mountains,
and people drive fast. Most signage is in
Greek and English but not all, so prepare
by jotting down the Greek spelling for
your destination, especially if it is off
the main road, and bring paper maps.
Most Greeks speak English, but they
were tickled when we could say good
morning, hello, goodbye, and thank
you in their native tongue. Very few
of the archeological sites we visited
were accessible to people with mobility
challenges. We stayed at 3Sixty Hotel &
Suites in Nafplio. Some of our favorite
restaurants were I Folio, Taverna Pidalio,
Mevta, and 3Sixty Grill, all in Nafplio.
Here are links to the sites we visited:
Archeological Museum of Nafplio,
Palamidi Castle, Archeological Site and
Museum at Mycenae, Archeological Site
at Tiryns, Archeological Site at Argos,
Byzantine Museum in Argos, Epidaurus,
the Bourtzi.
Driving on Greece's
main roads is easy.
Narrow, winding,
mountainous
roads are more of
a challenge, but
getting to explore
the Peloponnese
countryside is
worth the effort.
The road leading to
the ancient Argos
Theater, built in 320
BC, still has some
of its marble pavers.
Performances are
held here in the
summertime.
Take time to wander through the
Sanctuary of Asclepius, one of the
most important healing places of the
ancient world.
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