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Spring/Summer 2025 - Galapagos Matters - Galapagos Conservation Trust

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SPRING

SUMMER

2025

GCT at 30

Celebrating 30 years of protecting

the Galapagos Islands

galapagosconservation.org.uk


Contents

4 – 5 Galapagos News

6 – 7 Wild Galapagos

8 – 9 Project Updates

10 – 11

Elemental Galapagos

Henry Nicholls explores the forces that

shaped the Galapagos Islands and filled

them with life.

12 – 15

30 years of GCT

We look back at the evolution of Galapagos

Conservation Trust over the past three

decades, celebrating our successes and

remembering the many wonderful people

who have helped and supported us along

the way.

16

Evolution in real time

An interview with Peter and Rosemary Grant,

who have been studying Darwin’s finches in

Galapagos since 1973.

17

A tale of two giants

Rich Baxter looks at the parallel histories of

Aldabra and Galapagos giant tortoises, and

the ways in which both are now helping to

restore island ecosystems.

18 – 20

Beyond Darwin’s Arch: A decade of

tracking whale sharks

Dr Alex Hearn reflects on the challenges and

achievements of the past ten years tracking

whale sharks in Galapagos.

21

Ocean guardians: The role of whale sharks

in carbon capture

Sofía Green reveals how marine megafauna

such as whale sharks help our oceans to act

as natural carbon sinks.

22 – 23 Supporter News, Events & Merchandise

Galapagos Past

The crack of doom

By Henry Nicholls

Historians are very wary of the first-hand accounts of the

American explorer Benjamin Morrell, described by one

of his contemporaries as “the biggest liar in the Pacific”.

But we can be confident he witnessed one of the most

dramatic eruptions to occur in the Galapagos Archipelago

since its discovery in 1535.

Morrell reached Galapagos exactly 200 years ago, in

1825, and dropped anchor in Tagus Cove on the western

coast of Isabela. A few days later, Fernandina – just a

few kilometres away – blew its top in a most spectacular

and, if Morrell’s magniloquent account is to be believed,

alarming fashion. ‘At two o’clock A.M,’ he wrote, ‘while

the sable mantle of night was yet spread over the mighty

Pacific… our ears were suddenly assailed by a sound that

could only be equalled by ten thousand thunders bursting

from the air at once.’

This ‘crack of doom’ brought Morrell and all the men on

deck, ‘where they stood gazing like “sheeted spectres,”

speechless and bewildered with astonishment and

dismay. The heavens appeared to be in one blaze of fire,

intermingled with millions of falling stars and meteors;

while the flames shot upward from the peak… to the

height of at least two thousand feet in the air.’

By about four in the morning, ‘the boiling contents of the

tremendous caldron had swollen to the brim, and poured

over the edge of the crater in a cataract of liquid fire.’

A ‘dazzling stream’ of lava almost half a kilometre wide

had ‘the appearance of a tremendous torrent of melted

iron running from the furnace.’ When the lava met the

ocean, the uproar was ‘dreadful indeed’.

After several hours, the sea temperature had risen to a

dangerously hot 37° C and the air an oppressive 45°C.

There was no wind that would allow Morrell and his

men to navigate out of this tight spot. When the air

temperature reached 50° C, the glue-like resin holding

the vessel together started to melt, with tar dripping from

the rigging.

At last, ‘a breath of a light zephyr’ began to strengthen,

and Morrell weighed anchor. The wind created a new

problem, spreading what seemed to be a ‘mass of flame’

from Fernandina that cut off their safe passage to the

open Pacific. The only option was to head south, which

meant passing even closer to Fernandina’s shoreline.

Eventually, Morrell reached Floreana, where Fernandina’s

crater still appeared ‘like a colossal beacon-light, shooting

its vengeful flames high into the gloomy atmosphere, with

a rumbling noise like distant thunder.’

© Martin Symonds

Cover image © Meera Sulaiman

2

Galapagos Matters


From the

Chief Executive

By Dr Jen Jones

The fifth round of negotiations on the

future UN Global Plastics Treaty, which

took place in Busan in November, was

supposed to be the session where

the Treaty was finalised. The fact that

negotiators were unable to agree a

deal in time was disappointing for two

reasons. Firstly, and most importantly,

plastic pollution is an urgent crisis

that simply can’t wait. But it was also

frustrating because all delegates

present knew that, by the time talks

resumed in 2025, a different President

would be in office in the US, with a

very different agenda.

The return of Donald Trump has

inevitably dominated the news cycle

over the past few months, and I’m

sure you share our concern over what

this means for the natural world. Given

how urgently we need to tackle the

intersecting crises of climate change,

biodiversity loss and pollution, it can

be hugely dispiriting to see hardfought

progress halted, policies

reversed and funding withdrawn at

the stroke of a pen. In our modern era

of smartphones, social media and the

24-hour news cycle, it’s hard to take a

step back and see the bigger picture.

But the world is more than one man,

or indeed one country, and four

years is a blink of an eye when you

take the long view, which is exactly

what we’re doing in this edition of

Galapagos Matters. Consider, for

example, the fact that the oldest of

the Galapagos Islands, San Cristobal,

is over three million years old, and

yet the Archipelago is very young in

the context of deep geological time.

The Islands were shaped by elemental

forces and colonised by hardy pioneer

species on a timescale that is difficult

for the human brain to fathom

(p.10-11).

Conversely, change can happen

incredibly quickly, before our very

eyes. Charles Darwin believed that

evolution was impossible to study

in real time because it happens too

slowly, but we now know this to be

false thanks to Peter and Rosemary

Grant’s 40-year study of the finches

that bear his name (p.16). And we

know that, when nature is restored,

ecosystems can quickly start to heal,

whether it’s the reintroduction of giant

tortoises to degraded island habitats

(p.17) or measures to protect marine

ecosystems that act as natural carbon

sinks (p. 21). The natural world is

forever surprising us with its resilience

and ability to adapt.

This year we are celebrating our 30 th

anniversary, and while many of the

challenges that were present in 1995

have only become more urgent, this

milestone is an opportunity to reflect

on just how much we’ve been able to

achieve over the last three decades

(p.12-15). It is no exaggeration to

say that, without the conservation

projects that GCT and our many

partners have supported over the last

30 years, we would have seen more

extinctions, fewer fish in the ocean,

weaker environmental protections and

a growing disconnection between

people and nature in the Archipelago.

Instead we can celebrate whole

islands cleared of invasive species, an

expanded marine reserve, pioneering

legislation to protect the Islands,

and an incredible community of

Galapagos-born conservation leaders,

researchers and educators who I just

know are going to do amazing things

over the next 30 years. Real change

starts at the grassroots, and the

seeds you have helped us to plant in

Galapagos are only just getting going.

Whether you have been a GCT

supporter since day one, or you’re

finding out about us for the first time,

you are a vital part of this mission, and

I hope we can count on your support

for many years to come. We couldn’t

do this without you.

Jen

Galapagos Matters is a copyright biannual

publication produced for members of

Galapagos Conservation Trust.

The information in this issue was obtained

from various sources, all of which have

extensive knowledge of Galapagos, but

neither GCT nor the contributors are

responsible for the accuracy of the contents

or the opinions expressed herein.

ISSN 2050-6074 Galapagos Matters is

printed on paper made from well managed

forests and controlled sources.

Editors: Henry Nicholls & Tom O’Hara

Chief Executive: Dr Jen Jones

Designer: The Graphic Design House

Printer: Purple Results

020 7399 7440

gct@gct.org

galapagosconservation.org.uk

Spring | Summer 2025

3


Galapagos News

UN Global Plastics Treaty talks stall

Delegates failed to reach agreement

on a Global Plastics Treaty at the fifth

round of negotiations, which took

place in November in Busan, South

Korea. The Treaty was intended to

be finalised by the end of 2024, but

talks have now been adjourned and

will resume later this year. Progress

on the text continues to be held back

by a small number of oil-producing

countries that are opposed to

capping plastic production, including

Russia, Iran, Saudi Arabia and other

Gulf States.

Although the GCT team did not

attend the Busan talks in person,

we played a leading role in coordinating

a policy brief on behalf

of a broad coalition of Pacific island

territories, providing guidance and

practical recommendations for

the negotiators to deliver a treaty

that addresses the specific needs

of islands such as Galapagos. Our

partners in developing the policy

brief included the Municipalities of

Rapa Nui and Juan Fernández, the

Galapagos National Park Directorate

and Oceans Finance Company.

We also collaborated to create an

impactful video raising up the voices

of islanders across the Pacific, which

was shown at a United Nations

Environment Programme event

in Busan.

GCT continues to campaign for a

strong and legally-binding treaty

that bans single-use plastics, tackles

the proliferation of waste from

fisheries and other maritime sources,

and accelerates the transition to

a truly circular economy, while

making polluters pay to clean up

their mess. We are also calling on

UN member states to support the

Ecuadorian government in hosting

the symbolic signing of the treaty in

Galapagos itself.

To read the policy brief and

add your name in support, visit

galapagosconservation.org.uk/inc-5

Luis Vayas Valdivieso, Ecuador’s Ambassador to the

UK, chairing negotiations in Busan © UNEP

Ecuadorian election

is too close to call

Ecuador’s presidential election will go

to a run-off in April after no candidate

secured the 50% of the vote needed to

win outright. After a virtual tie in the first

round, incumbent president Daniel Noboa

will once again face off against Luisa

González, who he defeated in 2023. The

campaign was dominated by continuing

worries over security in some areas of

mainland Ecuador, as well as an energy

crisis that has hit parts of the country with

rolling black-outs. Noboa has courted

controversy in Galapagos in recent months

by approving a resolution that allows US

military vessels to conduct patrols from

Galapagos targetting drug traffickers

in the Eastern Pacific. Local community

leaders have raised concerns about

the impact of constructing new military

facilities on the Archipelago’s fragile

natural environment, and GCT is seeking

clarification on the government’s plans.

Chemical pollution in Galapagos

A new study published in December 2024 examines the

drivers, sources, distribution and fate of oil, plastics, pesticides,

persistent organic pollutants and heavy metals in the Galapagos

Marine Reserve, identifying pollutant hotspots and evaluating

rapid assessment methods and sentinel species that could aid

regional monitoring. The study was co-authored by members

of the Pacific Plastics: Science to Solutions network (led by GCT

and the University of Exeter), and recommends that intervention

strategies should be particularly focused on harbour areas in the

Archipelago. Read more: bit.ly/Galapagos-Pollution

GCT founder honoured

GCT Ambassador Julian Fitter, one of our founders and our first

Chair, has been made a member of the New Zealand Order

of Merit in recognition of more than 50 years of service to

conservation and wildlife. Julian lived in Galapagos from 1964 to

1979, where he worked at the Charles Darwin Foundation. He is

also a founder Trustee of Falklands Conservation and established

Friends of Galapagos New Zealand, along with a number of other

environmental initiatives in his adopted home.

4

Galapagos Matters


Craghoppers short films

showcase GCT’s work

Our corporate partner Craghoppers has released

a series of three short films documenting the work

of GCT. Filmed on location in Galapagos, the films

celebrate the work of three inspiring Ecuadorian

women: Lucía Norris, GCT’s Programmes and Policy

Manager; Dr Diana Pazmiño, lecturer at Universidad

San Francisco de Quito and co-founder of the Gills

Club; and Sofía Green, marine biologist with the

Galapagos Whale Shark Project. To find out more

and watch the films, visit bit.ly/craghoppers-gct

Filming Sofía Green and the Gills Club on Santa Cruz © Charlie Pinder / Craghoppers

Long-lining ban

in Galapagos

upheld

Galapagos rail © Agustín Gutiérrez

Galapagos rail rediscovered on Floreana

The Galapagos rail, a secretive bird thought to be extinct on Floreana, has

been found on the island for the first time since Charles Darwin observed it in

1835. This small terrestrial bird is a poor flier, making it particularly vulnerable

to introduced predators such as cats and rats, and it was thought to have

been driven to extinction. However, during their most recent annual landbird

monitoring trip to Floreana, scientists from the Charles Darwin Foundation and

Galapagos National Park rangers recorded its presence at three different sites.

Researchers will now carry out genetic sampling to determine whether this is

a reintroduced lineage or a remnant population that has managed to remain

undetected for all this time. Read more: bit.ly/Galapagos-Rail

The Ecuadorian Ministry of

Environment has confirmed

that it will uphold the

prohibition of long-line

fishing in the Galapagos

Marine Reserve, which has

been in place since 2008.

The statement followed a

meeting in January with

artisanal fishers who have

been pushing for a reversal

of the ban. Long-lining is

a fishing method which

has a devastating effect

on non-target species

such as sharks, and GCT

was one of a number of

organisations that issued

public statements in support

of the Ministry’s decision.

Spring | Summer 2025

5


Wild

Galapagos

Common name:

Red-billed tropicbird

Scientific name:

Phaethon aethereus

Spanish name:

Rabijunco piquirrojo

Conservation status:

Least Concern

EX EW CR EN VU NT LC

Average size:

90 – 105 centimetres

6

Galapagos Matters


© Tim Karels

Every year we are blown away by the consistently high quality

of the entries to our Galapagos Photography Competition. This

stunning shot of a red-billed tropicbird, by wildlife biologist Tim

Karels, was the winner of our ‘Birds of Galapagos’ category last

year. If you have some Galapagos snaps of your own that you’d

like to share, please enter this year’s competition! It doesn’t

matter whether or not they’re recent, as long as you haven’t

entered them into the competition before.

Find out more: galapagosconservation.org.uk/photos

Spring | Summer 2025

7


Project

Updates

© Edinson Cardenas (GNPD)

GCT and Galapagos National Park Directorate release landmark

report on plastic pollution

In September we published our joint report ‘Plastic

Pollution Free Galapagos: 5 Years of Science to

Solutions’, presenting the most detailed picture to date

of the threat that coastal plastic pollution poses to the

Galapagos Islands.

We launched the Plastic Pollution Free Galapagos

programme in May 2018 to support local efforts to tackle

plastic pollution in Galapagos. Research carried out by

GCT and our partners has focused on three key areas:

• the sources of plastic pollution in Galapagos

• the effects of plastic pollution (both on local ecosystems

and on related economic activity)

• the potential solutions to tackling plastic pollution

The report covers our current knowledge on the

international plastic footprint affecting Galapagos,

highlighting oceanic inputs and the impacts on wildlife

and communities. Our findings underline the urgent

need for world leaders to agree an ambitious, legallybinding

Global Plastics Treaty that bans single-use

plastics, accelerates the transition to a circular economy,

strengthens international laws on waste management at

sea and enforces the ‘polluter pays’ principle.

The report was formally launched at an event at the

Galapagos National Park headquarters on Santa Cruz,

attended by local media, and findings from the report

have also been covered by international media including

the Guardian.

To download and read the report, visit bit.ly/PPFG-5-Years

© Jess Howard

PPSS meeting in Quito

The impact of our plastics programme has been enhanced

by the creation of the Pacific Plastics: Science to Solutions

(PPSS) network, co-led by GCT and the University of Exeter,

which brings together researchers, NGOs, governments

and businesses across the Eastern Tropical Pacific region. In

November, the network came together in Quito for a threeday

workshop to review the progress made over the last five

years, develop recommendations for policy solutions and

identify opportunities for future collaboration, including key

research gaps in the region.

8

Galapagos Matters


Alberto Andrade at COP16 in Cali © Frente Insular

Schooling hammerheads © Alex Hearn

Community heroes: Alberto

Andrade, Frente Insular

Frente Insular de la Reserva Marina de

Galápagos is a community action group

that was founded in 2017, when a group

of citizens organised a demonstration in

response to the discovery in Galapagos

of a Chinese-flagged fishing vessel laden

with 300 tons of protected species,

including several species of shark. From

its origins advocating for the expansion

of the Galapagos Marine Reserve, Frente

has evolved into an influential movement

that is driving local action to protect the

Archipelago’s wildlife, including monthly

coastal clean-ups supported by GCT’s

Anne Guézou, and a campaign to tackle

fly-tipping on Santa Cruz.

Frente Insular is led by Alberto Andrade,

a former tourism and fishing worker who

is now a charismatic and well-known

community organiser and advocate for

conservation. He also has his own radio

show on the Islands! Alberto has been a

tireless supporter of GCT’s work on plastic

pollution, helping us to communicate

our findings to the local community. In

October he shared our plastics report

with around 550 students, 18 teachers and

100 members of the community at an event

organised by the Galapagos Biosecurity

Agency on Santa Cruz. He then took the

message to world leaders and government

representatives attending the United

Nations COP16 Conference on Biodiversity

in Cali, Colombia, sharing the findings from

the report and forging new international

connections.

We’re honoured to have such a powerful

advocate for our work in the local

community, and we will be working closely

in the coming months with Frente Insular

to help them develop and grow as an

organisation.

Research expedition explores

Paramount seamount

In January, a team of scientists from Universidad San

Francisco de Quito, Galapagos Science Center and the

Galapagos National Park Directorate (GNPD), supported

by organisations including GCT, carried out a two-week

expedition to Paramount, a shallow-water seamount

located 100 nautical miles north east of the Galapagos

Marine Reserve. The seamount rises from a depth of more

than 1,500 m to just 180 m below the surface, and the

expedition aimed to investigate the fish community around

the seamount and its connections with Galapagos.

Paramount is the only shallow seamount on Ecuador’s side

of the Cocos-Galapagos Swimway, a 120,000 km 2 stretch

of ocean connecting the Galapagos Marine Reserve with

Costa Rica’s Cocos Island National Park. Both these areas

are UNESCO World Natural Heritage Sites, and previous

studies have shown that they share similar biodiversity and

that several endangered marine species, such as scalloped

hammerhead sharks and green sea turtles, migrate between

them. As they move, these animals tend to loosely follow an

underwater chain of seamounts known as the Cocos Ridge.

In recent years, Costa Rica has expanded protection around

Cocos Island, and Ecuador has created the Hermandad

Reserve, which extends protection from Galapagos all the

way to Ecuador’s maritime border with Costa Rica. However,

Paramount was left unprotected, with Hermandad’s boundary

running 17 nautical miles to the south of the seamount.

“It is important for us to understand whether our conservation

efforts within Galapagos and Hermandad may be affected

by endangered wildlife spending time at other locations

where they are not protected,” explained Harry Reyes, senior

marine biologist at the GNPD. “To this end, we were able

to place satellite tags on ten scalloped hammerhead sharks

and four pelagic thresher sharks, allowing us to track their

movements.”

Besides tracking sharks, the team used baited stereovideo

cameras to record the presence of marine wildlife in

the waters above the seamount, and they also took water

samples, which will be analysed for traces of environmental

DNA from organisms in the area. The team was accompanied

by Swedish filmmaker, explorer and ocean advocate Joakim

Odelberg, and a documentary capturing the expedition and

its findings is planned for late 2025.

Spring | Summer 2025

9


Elemental

Galapagos

By Henry Nicholls

Hidden beneath the waves, some 250 km north of Puerto Ayora and

at a depth of around 2,500 m, lies the Galapagos Rift, an east-west

cleft between the Cocos Plate to the north and the Nazca Plate to

the south. As these two tectonic plates move apart, molten rock

rises up from the Earth’s mantle to fill the space. Also out of sight,

currently lurking beneath the Galapagos island of Fernandina, is a

hotspot, a region of mantle so energetic that it can break through

a tectonic plate.

It is thought that the Galapagos

Rift and the hotspot may once have

been much closer to each other

and the complex interplay between

these two geological forces built

a broad submarine platform that

rises well above the surrounding

seafloor and less than 1,000 m below

the sea surface. Occasionally the

bubbling, effusion and explosions

of magma were so great that they

rose above the waves, giving birth to

the Galapagos Islands that we know

and love.

The first lifeforms to take a hold on

these freshly spewn landscapes of

lava were, by necessity, some of

the toughest organisms there are.

Lichens are one of the best-studied

of these so-called ‘pioneer species’,

associations between fungi and

photosynthetic microorganisms that

are dispersed as tiny spores, can

anchor themselves to bare rock,

tolerate high temperatures and

survive prolonged drought. While the

photosynthetic microbes get on with

capturing sunlight energy and making

food for both partners, the fungi

release acids onto the rock that make

minerals available for their growth.

This physical and chemical dissolution

of the rock plays a vital ecological

role, speeding up erosion and the

formation of soils in which a plant

might take root.

One of Charles Darwin’s many

conundrums after his return from

the Beagle voyage was to figure

out how the first plants might have

reached isolated barren volcanoes

like Galapagos. At his home in Kent,

he carried out experiments on almost

100 species to see if their seeds

could survive in salt water. On potting

them out into soil, almost all of them

germinated, even after weeks in

these hostile conditions. With the

currents from the South American

continent to Galapagos often running

at 100 km a day, it would take a

floating seed or tangled mass of

vegetation around one week to reach

the Islands. Darwin also imagined

an even quicker mode of travel, with

birds transporting seeds in mud

caked between their toes or secreted

safe inside their digestive tracts.

Of course, if a seed that washes up

on a Galapagos beach is to settle for

good, it must be able to survive long

periods of drought, which accounts

for the kinds of plant that inhabit

the arid lowlands of Galapagos.

For instance, it’s not that surprising

that the Opuntia cactus should have

found a footing in this habitat; these

species have a long tap root to

reach deep down for water, fleshy

pads in which to store water and

modified leaves (we call them spines)

to minimise evaporation of precious

water back to the atmosphere. It also

pays to be wind pollinated, which

is the case for the vast majority of

flowering plants in Galapagos. Insectpollinated

species have presumably

reached the Islands and may even

have germinated, but relying on

some special insect to ferry pollen

from one flower to the next is not a

great strategy in a world with so few

insects to assist. More often than not,

these would-be colonisers left no

descendants.

There are even more obvious

absences in the makeup of the

Galapagos ecosystem. There are no

amphibians, for instance: for species

with a fondness for freshwater,

1,000 km of open ocean is just

too big a leap. Most mammals

were not equipped for the journey

either: some ratty ancestors seem

to have made it, giving us the rare

Galapagos rice rat, and there are

bats that have been blown across

from the continent, but these are

exceptional cases.

Those species that had a means to

reach Galapagos and the fortuity to

survive and then reproduce began

to splinter. The many different

10

Galapagos Matters


habitats on each island and the

different islands themselves gave

plenty of opportunity for one

population to become isolated from

the next. Natural selection did the

rest, steering secluded pockets of

organisms in different directions until

they became distinct species. For

example, the first finches to have

flown to Galapagos and survive

long enough to reproduce did so

around two million years ago, but

these settlers have since diverged

into the 17 different species we find

today. The story is the same for most

lineages that have been studied and

explains why so many Galapagos

species are unique to these

islands. These so-called endemic

species were, quite simply, made

in Galapagos.

As species have come and gone

and the makeup of Galapagos

residents has evolved, so the Islands

themselves have been changing.

The Nazca Plate on which the

Islands sit is drifting east at a speed

of around 4 cm a year and taking

the Archipelago with it. In one

million years, Galapagos is likely to

have moved some 40 km towards

the continent and further from the

hotspot that played such a key role

in shaping the Islands. Away from

the hotspot, the islands cool and

contract, and erosion will eventually

weather them down beneath the

waves once more. This may not be

the end of Galapagos, of course, for

the hotspot may yet throw up more

islands in their wake, steaming towers

of undressed rock that will act as

the stage for the origin of yet more

brilliant species.

Opuntia cactus on Isabela © George Tzircotis

Henry Nicholls

is a GCT Ambassador and

editor of Galapagos Matters

magazine. He works as a

secondary school teacher but

has also spent many years as

a freelance science journalist

specialising in evolutionary

biology, the environment,

conservation and the history

of science. He has written

two books about Galapagos,

Lonesome George: The Life

and Loves of a Conservation

Icon and The Galapagos:

A Natural History.

Spring | Summer 2025

11


The evolution of

Cast your mind back, if you are

old enough, to 1995. In the

UK, an unpopular Conservative

government tries to depose its

leader, though John Major is to

survive two more years before

being swept away by Tony Blair’s

landslide Labour win. A bitter war

is still raging in Eastern Europe,

as the Bosnian conflict enters its

fourth year. And in the US, Bill

Clinton is about to embark on

the extramarital relationship that

will soon mire his presidency

in scandal. A lot can change in

30 years but, equally, we can

draw many parallels with the

modern day.

In Galapagos, we are still facing many of the

same issues that prompted the founding

of Galapagos Conservation Trust in 1995:

invasive species, overfishing and unsustainable

development. These challenges remain just as

urgent, if not more so, with dozens of species

threatened with extinction, and we now also

face the growing twin threats of climate change

and plastic pollution. Our work has never been

more vital.

But we want to take this opportunity to

reflect on some of the incredible conservation

successes over the last three decades. Entire

islands have been cleared of invasive species,

with nature already healing and species reestablishing.

Vast areas of ocean are protected

for nature, with an expanded marine reserve

that remains a sanctuary for some of the most

astonishing concentrations of marine life on

the planet. And the local community, more

than ever before, is working with, not against,

the conservation sector, developing their own

initiatives to protect their home islands and live

in balance with nature.

All of us here at GCT are incredibly proud of

what we have achieved over the last 30 years

with your help. Here are just a few of the

highlights...

1995

Galapagos

Conservation Trust

was officially launched

on 5 April 1995 at

the Royal Society.

Some 250 people attended, including Sir David

Attenborough, David Bellamy (GCT’s first President),

the Ecuadorian Ambassador, four former directors

of the Charles Darwin Research Station, several MPs

and 10 descendants of Charles Darwin.

1996

Our first ever Galapagos Day was held on 16

September 1996 at the Natural History Museum in

London, celebrating the success of a campaign to

save Down House, Darwin’s former home.

Galapagos Day

Our showpiece event of the

year has taken place in a

number of different locations

over the years, including

London Zoo, the Royal

Geographical Society, Imperial

College and, during the COVID-19 pandemic,

online. Past speakers have included Sir David

Attenborough, David Bellamy, Ben Fogle, Andrew

Marr, Liz Bonnin, Stanley Johnson, Monty Halls

and Dame Diana Rigg. To find out about this year’s

event, check out page 23.

1997

Project Isabela, an ambitious effort to eradicate

invasive large mammals from Pinta, Santiago and

northern Isabela, began in 1997. Support from GCT

included funding for special boots to protect the

paws of the dogs used to hunt invasive goats on

the treacherous lava rock terrain.

1998

© Charles Darwin Foundation

The Special Law for Galapagos created the

Galapagos Marine Reserve and provided a new legal

framework for the Archipelago. We supported the

development and implementation of the Special

Law, which governs aspects of island life including

immigration control and fisheries management.

© Akemi Yokoyama / GCT

12

Galapagos Matters


2006

2005

We celebrated our tenth anniversary with a special

‘Dining with the Darwins’ event at the historic Livery

Hall of the Drapers’ Company in the City of London.

By the end of our first decade we had spent £1.7m

on support for conservation in Galapagos.

2003

The first ever GCT supporter cruise was organised

by Cazenove + Lloyd, hosted by GCT Director

Leonor Stjepic, Darwin descendant and GCT

Ambassador Randal Keynes, and guest of honour

Dame Diana Rigg.

2002

2001

Scalloped hammerheads © Simon Pierce

The first shark tagging expeditions took place

in Galapagos, tagging 18 hammerheads, three

Galapagos sharks and one whale shark, the first

steps in building up the evidence that would

eventually lead to the expansion of the Marine

Reserve nearly 20 years later.

We celebrated a big success for Project Isabela, as

Santiago island was declared pig-free. Meanwhile,

sharks were the theme at Galapagos Day, with a talk

from Peter Benchley, author of the book Jaws (and

scriptwriter for the film)!

HRH Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, attended

Galapagos Day at the Royal Geographical Society

in 2001. Prince Philip visited the Galapagos Islands

three times, in 1964, 1971 and in 1988, and was a

generous supporter of GCT for many years.

In 2001 we also held our first ever Galapagos

photography competition, won by Polly Tatum for

her photo of a male frigatebird. The competition

is still going strong – see page 7 for details of this

year’s contest.

The GCT moth

When Canadian entomologist Bernard

Landry and his colleague Lazaro Roque

found a number of moth species in

Galapagos that they could not identify,

they needed to refer to the most

important collection in the world, at the

Natural History Museum in London, to find out whether

the species were new to science. GCT funded their visit

to London, and Bernard’s way of saying thank you was to

name one of the new moth species that they discovered

Caloptilia galacotra after GCT (‘gala’ from Galapagos,

‘co’ from ‘Conservation’, and ‘tr’ from ‘Trust’).

2007

Following the success of Project Isabela, in 2007

Project Pinzon was initiated to eradicate invasive rats

from Pinzon island, led by Island Conservation and the

Galapagos National Park Directorate. GCT provided

financial support for a ten-day international workshop

focusing on the problem of introduced rodents.

In 2007 GCT also launched a campaign to raise

awareness of the threats to sharks in the Galapagos

Marine Reserve, and teamed up with other UK-based

organisations to call for a ban on the import of shark

fins to Britain (something that was finally achieved in

2023 with the introduction of the Shark Fins Act).

2008

GCT began funding the Charles Darwin Foundation’s

Philornis downsi research project. This invasive parasitic

fly is the single biggest threat to Galapagos land birds.

2009

GCT participated in a number

of events to celebrate the 200 th

anniversary of Charles Darwin’s

birth. Our ‘Donate a Darwin’

campaign encouraged people to

donate a £10 note (which featured a

portrait of Charles Darwin at the time) to save

the Floreana mockingbird. GCT Ambassador

Sarah Darwin was presented with a giant tenner by

Andrew Bailey, Chief Cashier (and now Governor) of the

Bank of England.

At Christ’s College, Cambridge, we held a dinner for

70 guests to celebrate the anniversary, with speakers

including Sir David Attenborough, GCT President Andrew

Marr and Floreana-born conservationist Felipe Cruz.

Initial work on the project to restore Floreana island

began in 2009, and GCT also helped to launch the

Galapagos Tortoise Movement Ecology Project.

Floreana mockingbird © Luis Ortiz Catedral

Spring | Summer 2025

13


14

2010

Together with the Charles Darwin Foundation and

the Galapagos National Park Directorate, GCT

began supporting the long-term monitoring of

Galapagos penguins and flightless cormorants.

We also collaborated with WWF to facilitate

recycling initiatives on two of Galapagos’ inhabited

islands, including a waste oil recycling programme

to prevent the contamination of waterways.

2011

Controlling the spread of invasive species is a high

priority in Galapagos, and we funded a project

pioneered by our Ambassador Godfrey Merlen to

install UV insect zappers on boats to prevent the

spread of insects between islands.

2012

As part of the continued fight against the invasive fly

Philornis downsi, we supported the refurbishment of

the insect laboratory at the Charles Darwin Research

Station and helped to fund an international workshop

on control methods for Philornis, which resulted in

the development of a five-year management plan.

2013

The initial phase of Project

Pinzon was declared a

success, with the island

cleared of invasive rats.

This laid the foundation

for the recovery of the

island’s giant tortoise

population, and its natural

recolonisation by the Galapagos

rail and cactus finch.

2014

We launched our Discovering Galapagos

educational programme in both the UK and

Galapagos, helping to catalyse interest and

stewardship among the next generation of

conservation ambassadors.

In 2014 we also began supporting two projects

which are still a key focus more than a decade

later – the Galapagos Whale Shark Project, which is

piecing together the story of how these enigmatic

ocean giants behave (see page 18), and the

Mangrove Finch Project, which is working to save

one of the world’s rarest birds from extinction.

Galapagos Matters

Galapagos rail © Ian Henderson

2019

Beginning in January 2019, the Galapagos National Park

Directorate and Island Conservation began releasing land

iguanas onto Santiago, an island where they had gone

extinct in the early 20 th century due to the introduction

of feral cats and goats. GCT supported the project for

several years through funding for Dr Luis Ortiz-Catedral’s

work to assess the population size and health status of

land iguanas across Fernandina, Isabela and Santa Cruz

islands, providing vital information for the Santiago

reintroduction.

Also in 2019, GCT began supporting work to save the

little vermilion flycatcher from extinction. We are helping

to fund work led by the Charles Darwin Foundation and

the Galapagos National Park Directorate to restore native

Scalesia forest, a key habitat for flycatchers in Galapagos,

and reduce the threat from invasive rats and the parasitic

fly Philornis.

Marti the Hammerhead

Shark, the first in our

series of educational

storybooks, was

published in 2019

following a successful

crowdfunding campaign.

Written by GCT’s Sarah

Langford and beautifully illustrated by Lisa Brown, the

book follows Marti, a young scalloped hammerhead

shark, on her journey from the Galapagos Islands to

Cocos Island, Costa Rica.

2018

GCT started supporting research into the Cocos-

Galapagos Swimway, a key migratory route for marine

species including sharks, sea turtles and whales.

We also continued to develop our work on plastic

pollution by holding a four-day ‘Science to Solutions’

workshop in Galapagos.

2017

We launched our flagship Plastic Pollution Free

Galapagos programme, looking at the sources and

impacts of the growing influx of plastic waste in

Galapagos, as well as mapping out the solutions.

2015

We supported the launch of

the Galapagos Bullhead Shark

Project, an almost ‘forgotten’

species about which very little

was known, and we funded the

first ever Shark Day community

engagement event on

San Cristobal.

Shark Day in Galapagos

© Max Hirschfeld


2020

In 2020, much of the conservation work underway

in Galapagos ground to a halt due to the COVID-19

pandemic. GCT’s Board agreed on an exceptional

donation to provide essential PPE and food parcels

to Galapaguenians, whilst the GCT team speedily

adapted our educational materials for home learning

and provided support to families to grow their own

food through the Urban Family Gardening project.

We also supported the launch of Barcode Galapagos,

the largest ever citizen science project on the Islands,

which aims to create a genetic library of Galapagos

species, and which involved training locals, including

out-of-work tourist guides, to be lab and field

technicians.

2021

At the COP26

climate conference

in Glasgow, we

brought local

Galapaguenian voices to the world stage with powerful

videos expressing their greatest concerns about

climate change and their messages for world leaders.

Together with the University of Exeter, we launched the

Pacific Plastics: Science to Solutions network, which

brings together researchers, NGOs, governments and

businesses across the Eastern Tropical Pacific to tackle

the growing threat from plastic pollution.

We also started supporting the Co-Galapagos project

in 2021, which is giving local communities the tools

to take forward their own ideas for conservation and

sustainable development, working towards achieving

the UN Sustainable Development Goals in Galapagos.

2022

The new Hermandad Marine Reserve was formally

established, adding 60,000 km² to the 138,000

km² of the original Galapagos Marine Reserve, and

increasing the total area of Ecuador’s ocean that is

protected from 13% to almost 19%. This huge win for

ocean conservation was based on findings from years

of research supported by GCT and partners such as

the MigraMar network.

In July, Sir David Attenborough was awarded the

‘National Order of Merit’, the highest decoration

granted by Ecuador, at the Ecuadorian Embassy in

London, at an event organised with support from GCT.

Tessa the Giant Tortoise, the second in our series of

storybooks, was published after another successful

crowdfunder, aiming to inspire children in Galapagos

to connect with nature and the unique animals that

they share their home with.

2025

As we celebrate our 30 th anniversary year, we are

also looking forward, mapping out our strategy

to 2030 and beyond. Key areas of focus for GCT

this year include work to address the threat posed

by drifting fish aggregating devices (FADs) in the

Galapagos Marine Reserve; the continuing Global

Plastics Treaty negotiations; the next steps in the

Floreana programme; supporting moves towards a

more regenerative model for tourism in Galapagos;

and strengthening local capacity on the Islands,

helping to train the Galapagos-born conservationists

of the future.

Thank you for your incredible support in getting us to

this point. We could not have done it without you.

2024

In 2024 we published our landmark plastic pollution

report, in collaboration with the Galapagos National

Park Directorate, presenting five years of research

into the sources and impacts of plastic pollution

in Galapagos. We presented our findings on the

global stage, including at the Rapa Nui Pacific

Leaders’ Summit and at the UN Global Plastics Treaty

negotiations in Ottawa.

In November we revealed our newest GCT

Ambassador, Sir Stephen Fry, who presented the

BBC Radio 4 Appeal on our behalf, raising awareness

and funds for the protection of Galapagos giant

tortoises threatened by plastic pollution.

2023

We completed our trilogy of storybooks with

Alberto the Waved Albatross, which follows the story

of Alberto and his partner Isabela as they overcome

obstacles including industrial fishing fleets and

plastic pollution.

After more than a decade of preparation, the

eradication of invasive predatory mammals on

Floreana began, led by Island Conservation,

Fundación Jocotoco and the Galapagos National

Park Directorate. Support from GCT included

funding for our partners Durrell Wildlife Conservation

Trust to protect finches and owls by holding them in

aviaries while the eradication took place.

Spring | Summer 2025

15


Evolution in real time

An interview with Peter and Rosemary Grant

Peter and Rosemary Grant’s long-running study of Darwin’s finches

has uncovered new insights about the processes of hybridisation

and speciation, revealing evolution to be a more dynamic and

unpredictable process than Charles Darwin could ever have imagined.

How has your study changed our

understanding of evolution?

Charles Darwin believed you could

not observe or study evolution

because it happens far too slowly.

Our study on Daphne Major has

shown the opposite. Evolution by

natural selection of long-lived birds

can be witnessed, measured and

interpreted in a matter of years. For

example, Darwin’s mechanism of

natural selection causes divergence

in size when two species compete for

a food resource. During a prolonged

drought of two-and-a-half years, we

witnessed the average beak and

body size of the population of the

medium ground finch (Geospiza

fortis) becoming smaller after its

larger members were outcompeted

for food by another larger finch

species, Geospiza magnirostris.

What can the finches on Daphne

tell us about evolution in

Galapagos as a whole?

They alert us to the possibility

that evolutionary change is

taking place in other plants and

animals in Galapagos, unstudied

and therefore unrecorded. The

Galapagos Archipelago is young,

the oldest island less than 5 million

years old, and it is dynamic. Not

only is it volcanically active and

subjected to the El Niño Southern

Oscillation, with years of excessive

rainfall interspersed by droughts,

but over the last million years it has

experienced ten glacial cycles that

substantially altered the sea level,

resulting in islands fusing together

and splitting apart as water was either

locked up at the poles or released

during the interglacials. Thus,

populations of plants and animals

were alternately brought in contact

with each other or split apart.

How can your findings be

used to inform conservation

strategies for Darwin’s finches?

They show what happens to bird

populations in the natural state on

uninhabited islands. Their numbers

oscillate between highs and lows in

population sizes from abundance

to scarcity. They also show that

species hybridise in nature, leading to

a reshuffling of genetic factors that can

fuel changes through natural selection

when the environment changes.

How have the Galapagos Islands

changed in the 40 years that

you’ve been visiting?

The most conspicuous change has

been in the number of people,

both visitors and residents. Less

conspicuous are the changes brought

about by introduced species. For

example, the avian vampire fly

(Philornis downsi) has now established

itself and is responsible for higher

mortality in finches and flycatchers.

Similarly, introduced yellow paper

wasps (Polistes versicolor) feed on

caterpillars and deplete the supply of

this important food for the finches.

Positive changes are the increasingly

comprehensive efforts to solve the

outstanding conservation problems.

What do you think Charles

Darwin would make of your

findings if he were here today?

We are sure he would be delighted

to discover that evolution by natural

selection has been measured in one of

the species of finches that today bear

his name. He would feel vindicated,

and would probably add that he

wished he had the genetic knowledge

available to us today, and had been

able to spend more than five weeks

on Galapagos!

Peter and

Rosemary Grant

are evolutionary biologists

and Emeritus Professors at

Princeton University. They

have been studying Darwin’s

finches on the Galapagos

islands since 1973, carrying

out intensive fieldwork on

Genovesa for ten years and

on the small island of Daphne

Major for 40 years.

A new edition

of Peter and

Rosemary

Grant’s

landmark

study, 40

Years of

Evolution:

Darwin’s

Finches

on Daphne Major Island, is

available now from Princeton

University Press: bit.ly/40-

years-evolution

Medium ground finch © Matthew Wixon

16

Galapagos Matters


Global Relevance

A tale of two giants

Rich Baxter

is Director of the Indian Ocean

Tortoise Alliance and an island

ecologist with over a decade

of experience in the Western

Indian Ocean. In this time,

he has developed a deep

appreciation and fascination

for the region’s biodiversity,

leading him to become a

country member of the IUCN

SSC Tortoise and Freshwater

Turtle Specialist Group.

Aldabra giant tortoise © Rich Baxter

By Rich Baxter

Aldabra Atoll, a UNESCO World

Heritage site in the Indian Ocean, is

home to the Aldabra banded snail,

the Aldabra fody, the Aldabra rail and

the remarkable Aldabra giant tortoise.

These tortoises form the largest giant

tortoise population in the world, with

four times as many individuals as there

are in all of Galapagos.

Despite their geographical separation,

both the Aldabra giant tortoises of the

Seychelles and the various species of

Galapagos tortoise followed similar

evolutionary trajectories, evolving

to be large herbivores on isolated

islands. This convergent evolution

shows how similar pressures can

lead to comparable adaptations

in distinct species. However, while

the Galapagos tortoises diversified

into several species across the

Archipelago, the Aldabra tortoises

remained a single population, thriving

in the relatively uniform conditions

of the Aldabra Atoll. Their rounder

faces and ability to suck water up from

shallow pools of water through their

nostrils are key to their survival.

Human exploitation has led to the

extinction of giant tortoises from

all the world’s large landmasses,

and they only survived on islands.

Early explorers, sailors and whalers

saw tortoises as an abundant and

convenient food source, and tens

of thousands were taken from their

islands, loaded onto ships and

slaughtered en route to new lands

and museums. By the late 19th

century, giant tortoises on islands

across the globe had gone extinct,

including several species of Galapagos

tortoise, while Aldabra tortoises

narrowly avoided a similar fate. The

Mascarene islands of Mauritius,

Réunion and Rodrigues all lost their

endemic giants, as did Madagascar,

the ancestral home of the Aldabra

giant tortoise.

Today, threats to the last giants have

shifted but are still significant. In the

Seychelles, habitat degradation,

poaching and introduced predators

pressure their survival, while rising

sea levels and longer droughts

threaten low-lying islands like Aldabra.

In Galapagos, encroachment and

introduced species, such as rats

and goats, continue to threaten

giant tortoises.

Conservationists are using tortoises

and their ecosystem-engineering

status to rejuvenate and restore

ecosystem functions to degraded

islands. While the Aldabra population

remains stable, the tortoises have

been introduced to higher-elevation

islands in the Seychelles, where they

will be more secure from rising sea

levels. Some of these islands now

hold large, self-sustaining tortoise

populations and could even serve as a

genetic back-up stock for the Aldabra

population. Further south in the Indian

Ocean, Aldabra tortoises are being

used as ecological replacements for

extinct species on islands like Round

Island and Rodrigues in Mauritius,

where they play a critical role in

herbivory, seed dispersal, nutrient

cycling and habitat formation.

Reintroducing giant tortoises to areas

they once inhabited helps rebuild

ecological functionality, which in turn

supports many other species.

In Galapagos, conservationists are

reintroducing Floreana tortoises – a

species thought extinct – by using

individuals from Isabela island with

Floreana genes. This genetic rescue

aims to restore a missing ecosystem

engineer species and preserve genetic

diversity. Galapagos has long been

a focal point of global conservation,

thanks to Darwin, while conservation

efforts in the Seychelles have received

less global limelight. Organisations

like the Indian Ocean Tortoise Alliance

are working to promote the Aldabra

tortoise as a flagship species for Indian

Ocean conservation, and there are

increasing numbers of tortoises in

protected areas in Seychelles, along

with successful rewilding projects

in Madagascar and Mauritius. The

survival of both emblematic giants

appears to be heading in a slow and

steady positive direction. How very

tortoise-like.

To find out more about

Aldabra giant tortoises,

visit iotaseychelles.org

Spring | Summer 2025

17


Beyond

Darwin’s Arch:

A decade of tracking

whale sharks

By Dr Alex Hearn

Whale sharks are among the most fascinating

creatures on the planet, the largest fish in

the sea. But sharks are incredibly vulnerable

to human pressures. Their slow growth, long

lives and low reproductive output mean

that populations struggle to rebound after

a catastrophic event, and right now, that

catastrophic event is us. It is thought that

humans kill between 70-100 million sharks each

year. Fortunately, whale shark fishing is banned

in most countries, although some allow them

to be landed if caught accidentally – a few

years ago, undercover journalists found that a

single factory in China was processing around

600 whale sharks each year.

While the whale shark is mostly

a solitary, open ocean animal, it

does form predictable seasonal

aggregations at around two dozen

sites across the globe, timed to

coincide with reef spawning events,

which provide rich foraging for this

plankton feeder. These aggregations

are mostly made up of immature

males. Galapagos is different. Here,

scuba divers come from all over the

world to dive with mostly large adult

females at the remote island of Darwin

between July and October each year.

We formed the Galapagos Whale

Shark Project to try to understand

what these sharks were doing there.

Almost immediately we discovered

that what we thought we knew was

all wrong.

Mysterious migrations

We found that rather than an

aggregation site, Darwin was more

of a stopover point. While it was

correct that there were only a handful

of sharks there on any given day,

each day there were different sharks.

They were moving through. And they

didn’t seem to be feeding. We placed

satellite tags on them to track their

movements and found that early in

the season, they would head out into

the Pacific, along the Equatorial Front

– an area where two surface currents

slide past each other, creating vortices

called “tropical instability waves”

that propagate westwards along the

Front. After 1,000 - 1,500 kilometres,

they would turn back, and return near

Darwin again, then continue east, all

the way to the shelf-break of mainland

Ecuador and northern Peru.

Over all these years, we’ve only seen

a handful of males. The females’

size and distended abdomens led

us to speculate that they might be

pregnant. Almost nothing is known

about whale shark reproduction. Pups

are around 60 centimetres long, and

are almost never seen. Might we

have stumbled upon the holy grail

of whale shark research? The almost

mythical ‘pupping grounds’? Or

maybe their migration has nothing to

do with their reproduction and more

to do with feeding – after all, those

tropical instability waves are natural

plankton traps.

I decided to focus my research efforts

on the theory that the female whale

18

Galapagos Matters


Dr Alex Hearn

is a professor of marine

biology at the Universidad

San Francisco de Quito,

co-founder of the Galapagos

Whale Shark Project and a

founding member of the

MigraMar network.

Whale shark swims past Darwin’s Arch platform © Jonathan Green

sharks we see in Galapagos migrate

seasonally between feeding grounds.

I looked back through old reports and

found that the first ever whale shark in

Galapagos was actually observed in

the southern part of the Archipelago,

earlier in the year. I also engaged with

dive guides and recreational divers,

the Inter-American Tropical Tuna

Commission, and Galapagos National

Park Rangers, all of whom confirmed

sightings in the south.

However, it’s not easy to get funding

to search for a species over such a

large area. Working at Darwin island

was a walk in the park (so long as

you were careful with the ripping

currents!). You could pretty much

guarantee one to four whale shark

encounters every time you jumped

into the water. In the south, it was

going to be hit and miss. And it was

mostly miss. We spent a frustrating

season turning up to dive sites with a

tag in hand the day after a whale shark

had been seen.

I decided to switch to the air. There

was no way I could afford an aircraft,

but my colleagues had a fixed-wing

drone they were willing to send out

over a large area between Isabela

and Floreana. Although we came

back empty-handed, our expeditions

shed light on the amazing diversity

and abundance of other marine

megafauna in the reserve at that

time of year. Our drone pilot, Julio

Vizuete, was so enamored that he

offered to bring his ultra-light aircraft

the following year. Perhaps if we could

combine aerial and boat surveys,

we would have better luck…?

Pirates and plane crashes

Unfortunately, we ran into logistical

problems immediately. It turns

out Guayaquil airport doesn’t like

to handle ultralights, so they sent

Julio to Manta… where there was

no quarantine facility for flights to

Galapagos… so they promptly sent

him back to Guayaquil. This went on

for several days, while the tension on

the boat grew, as we sat and waited

and hoped for him to appear on

the horizon.

Finally, Julio made it. The next four

days were amazing. Not only did we

find whale sharks, we also had close

encounters with a Bryde’s whale and

Spring | Summer 2025

19


its calf, bottlenose dolphins, and the

aerial observers even reported blue

whales. The best moment, however,

was when the ultralight flew over

us, dipping its wings. This was the

agreed signal for a whale shark.

We all jumped up and scanned the

water. It only took us a few minutes

before we saw a large shadow under

the surface. We slipped into the

water and there beneath us was

an adult whale shark, just sitting at

around 8 metres depth. After years of

trying, we had shown that with aerial

support, we were able to locate and

communicate the position of a shark,

intercept it and successfully tag it.

We secured funding from National

Geographic to visit the south of

Galapagos again in 2023, and to carry

out aerial surveys along the Ecuadorian

coast. However, this was not as simple

as we hoped. Mainland Ecuador

was becoming more dangerous with

each passing day, with local gangs,

now linked to drug cartels, extorting

artisanal fishers and coastal businesses.

Fishers were also vulnerable to piracy –

they would be held up at gunpoint and

relieved of their boat engines, leaving

them adrift at sea, without their only

source of livelihood.

We spent our first week in Esmeraldas.

At the end of the week, we had seen

plenty of dolphins, some whales… but

no whale sharks. Our second week was

centered around Isla de la Plata, home

to blue-footed and Nazca boobies,

and even a few breeding pairs of

waved albatross (the only individuals

not to nest in Galapagos). As with the

previous week, the sea was calm, the

ultralight spotted plenty of dolphins,

some whales and mantas… but no

whale sharks. We were unable to find

any boat willing to take us out to the

southern portion of Ecuador. This area,

bordering Peru, was just too risky.

Without having encountered a single

whale shark during our mainland

Recovering the ultralight from the sea © Julio Vizuete

surveys, we flew back out to

Galapagos. There, we encountered

eight whale sharks over a period of

five days, and were able to tag six.

After placing all the tags on the sharks,

we had set aside some days to carry

out aerial surveys of the entire marine

reserve. On the afternoon of the

second day, Julio did not check in and

we became concerned. We decided to

activate the emergency protocols and

begin a search.

The navy sent out a patrol vessel, and

we had a call from the captain of an

industrial fishing vessel outside the

marine reserve, who offered the use

of their helicopter. An oceanographic

research vessel stopped its work and

moved up to the search area. The

Galapagos Science Center contacted

artisanal fishers on Isabela to join the

search. Looking back, it really was an

example of how ocean users, so often

at odds with each other, put aside their

differences for something that unites

us all: the search for comrades missing

at sea.

The following morning, we finally got

the news we were waiting for: Julio and

his spotter, Alberto Andrade, had been

found unharmed, not far from their

last known position. The navy rescue

vessel had found the plane floating at

the surface, with a life vessel attached.

I cannot describe the relief all of us

felt – Julio and Alberto’s families, our

research team, friends and the rescue

team… I don’t think there was a dry

eye among us.

Common name:

Whale shark

Scientific name:

Rhincodon typus

Spanish name:

Tiburón ballena

The Peruvian connection

Our ultralight would never fly again,

so our next challenge was to locate

the sharks without aerial support.

The solution would come via a

serendipitous virtual workshop where

I coincided with Alejandra Mendoza,

a Peruvian marine biologist who had

spent the past few years developing

a whale shark monitoring programme

with the NGO Ecoceánica, in

northern Peru. She works closely

with artisanal fishers at Cancas, near

the port of Máncora, and they carry

out abundance surveys and photoidentification

work. Her team were

keen to understand the movement

patterns of their sharks and open

to collaboration, so we made our

way to Peru.

Each day, we spent six to eight hours

in our boat, staring out across the

water, looking for a subsurface shadow

or a fin breaking the surface. I never

would have thought it, but it worked.

We had 11 whale shark encounters

over five days, and we were able to

tag six of them.

So what are our next steps? In 2025

we are looking forward to continuing

our partnership with GCT, and to

working with new partners. With

support from Metropolitan Touring

and Finch Bay Hotels, we hope

to continue working in southern

Galapagos, and to investigate a

potential aggregation site in the

western islands. We may try to

explore the Colombian coast… and

we really hope that the situation in

mainland Ecuador will improve so

that subsistence and artisanal fishers

can feed their families without fear of

having their engines stolen and being

left to drift at sea by pirates.

Read the extended version of

Alex’s whale shark diaries at

galapagosconservation.org.uk/

beyond-darwins-arch

Conservation status:

Endangered

EX EW CR EN VU NT LC

Average size:

10 - 12 metres

Maximum size:

18 metres

Average weight:

15 tonnes

20

Galapagos Matters


© Jonathan Green

Ocean guardians:

The role of whale sharks in carbon capture

By Sofía Green

From a young age, we learn that

trees take in carbon dioxide to

produce energy and grow through

a process called photosynthesis.

Plants also release oxygen back into

the atmosphere which humans need

to breathe. This makes forests one

of the planet’s great carbon sinks,

balancing out naturally produced

carbon dioxide and now also having

to sequester the excess produced

by humans.

Yet forests are not the only

ecosystems involved in absorbing

carbon dioxide. The ocean hosts

an impressive array of ecosystems,

all playing a role in carbon

sequestration. Just as large forests

on land absorb carbon, so do coastal

wetlands, such as mangrove forests,

marshes and seagrass meadows, as

well as kelp forests and microscopic

algae known as phytoplankton, each

in distinct ways.

But that is not all. While the science

is still new and ongoing, we are

uncovering evidence that large

marine organisms also play a

vital role in carbon sequestration.

Innovative research is demonstrating

how whales, krill and fish support the

movement of carbon from the ocean

surface to deep sea, where it can

be stored long term. This system is

known as the biological pump.

Whale sharks migrate long distances

in the ocean, both horizontally—

travelling approximately 40–100km

daily—and vertically, with the deepest

recorded dive being 1,928 m.

Whale sharks are voracious feeders,

ingesting large amounts of prey

biomass daily. They contribute to

nutrient transportation by travelling

from coastal feeding areas to open

ocean regions, where they defecate

and enrich otherwise nutrientdeficient

waters. Additionally, by

physically mixing water during their

dives, they help move nitrogen—a

key nutrient—from the ocean depths

back to the surface, stimulating

phytoplankton growth. This is

critical because phytoplankton

sequesters between 30 to 50 billion

metric tonnes of carbon annually,

representing about 40% of all plantbased

carbon sequestration.

Whale sharks also contribute to

carbon sequestration due to their

sheer size. Every living being is made

up of carbon, and the larger and

longer-lived the organism, the more

carbon it stores as biomass. When

whale sharks die, they sink to the

ocean floor, taking their carbon with

them, where it can remain buried for

centuries, far from the atmosphere

and gradually transferred to deepsea

organisms. However, when large

marine organisms are fished and

eaten, rather than left to sink to the

bottom of the ocean, the carbon

stored in their bodies is released into

the atmosphere instead, contributing

to additional CO 2

emissions.

The exact amount of carbon

sequestered by whale sharks is

difficult to quantify. More studies

are needed to understand their

migratory routes, habitat use, diving

behaviour and longevity to calculate

more precise numbers. Nonetheless,

the fact that whale sharks and other

marine megafauna play a role in

the blue carbon system is now

clear and undeniable. Although

marine vertebrates store only a

fraction of the total carbon in marine

ecosystems, recovering populations

of fish, whales and other large

marine animals such as whale sharks

could have an impact on carbon

sequestration comparable to current

carbon capture projects. The more of

these animals we have in the ocean,

the stronger our ocean carbon sink

becomes.

To read an extended version of this

article with references, visit bit.ly/

whale-shark-carbon-capture

Sofía Green

is an Ecuadorian marine

biologist who has worked for

the Galapagos Whale Shark

Project for several years.

Based in Galapagos, she is

involved in leading volunteer

environmental education

programmes and runs coastal

clean-ups.

Spring | Summer 2025

21


Supporter News

The conservation of the Galapagos Islands brings together people

from all walks of life. It doesn’t matter whether you’re a student just

starting out or an A-list celebrity at the pinnacle of your career – these

Islands have a unique ability to amaze and inspire, and we can all play

a part in preserving them for future generations.

Galapagos Day 2024 © Akemi Yokoyama / GCT

The GCT team in the studio with

Sir Stephen Fry © GCT

Introducing our newest

GCT Ambassador...

Sir Stephen Fry is, of course, a

man that needs no introduction.

Actor, screenwriter, author,

playwright, journalist, poet,

comedian, television presenter,

film director and all-round

national treasure, Sir Stephen

is a passionate advocate for

conservation and the natural

world, and we were thrilled that

he agreed to present a BBC

Radio 4 Appeal on behalf of GCT

in November. Our appeal, raising

money to protect giant tortoises

from plastic pollution, has so far

raised over £21,000. If you missed

the broadcast, you can listen on

BBC Sounds by visiting

bit.ly/r4-gct

Join our Big Give campaign to

save the Galapagos sea lion!

Sea lions are among the most

charismatic creatures in Galapagos,

charming visitors with their playful

nature. Sadly, they’re also at high risk

of death and injury from fishing nets

and other plastic waste. We need

your help to protect these innocent

animals and create a future free from

pollution.

From 22 to 29 April we’re taking

part in the Big Give Green Match

Fund campaign. Every donation

you make during this week will be

doubled, and we are hoping to

raise at least £20,000. The money

we raise will fund work to clean up

sea lion habitat, keep harmful fish

aggregating devices (FADs) out of

Galapagos, stem the flow of singleuse

plastics and foster a love of the

ocean among young Galapagueños.

To find out more, sign up for our

newsletter at galapagosconservation.

org.uk/news

Galapagos Day 2024

Thank you to everyone who

joined us in October at our new

central London venue, 1 Wimpole

Street, for Galapagos Day 2024.

Our theme was ‘Turning the

Tide on Plastic Pollution’, and

we heard from the scientists

using cutting-edge technology

to map the scale of the problem,

policymakers working to secure

a Global Plastics Treaty, and

the community leaders driving

change on the ground. A huge

thanks to our speakers and

panellists Dr Ceri Lewis, Dr Amy

MacLeod, His Excellency Mr Luis

Vayas Valdivieso, Lucía Norris,

GCT President Monty Halls and

our wonderful host, Dr Sally

Uren OBE.

GCT Supporter Cruises

Our GCT cruises are a unique

opportunity to experience a side of

Galapagos that other tourists don’t

see, with exclusive project visits,

talks from local conservationists

and a member of the GCT team

accompanying you on your

expedition. We charter vessels for

small groups and places fill up fast.

For more information on our 2025

cruises, or to register your interest

for future trips, please contact

kelly@gct.org

22

Galapagos Matters


Scalloped hammerheads © Jonathan Green

Events

Galapagos Day

Thursday 9 October 2025,

6pm – 10pm,

1 Wimpole Street,

London W1G 0AE

Last year we were overwhelmed with

positive feedback about our new

Galapagos Day venue, 1 Wimpole

Street, and we’re delighted to be

returning in October for a special

30 th anniversary edition of our

flagship event. Just five minutes’

walk from Bond Street and Oxford

Circus stations, the impressive space

Galapagos Merchandise

includes a 298-seater auditorium,

glass-ceilinged atrium and accessible

facilities.

This year we are taking a deep

dive into the ocean realm, as we

bust some myths and celebrate the

incredible ecosystem benefits of

some of nature’s most misunderstood

creatures: sharks. You can expect

thought-provoking talks, lively panel

discussions, interactive exhibits and a

friendly crowd of wildlife enthusiasts.

Tickets are on sale now at a

special early bird price of £20 until

31 May (£30 thereafter). We are also

offering a new lower ticket price of

£10 for students. The ticket includes

your first drink at the bar. Capacity

at the venue is limited, so we

recommend booking early to avoid

disappointment. Get your tickets now

via the back form of this magazine or

online at galapagosconservation.

org.uk/galapagos-day-2025

This year’s event is kindly sponsored

by Mundy Adventures.

New! Adopt an American flamingo

Adopting a flamingo is a great way to support

our work protecting the myriad bird species

of Galapagos, and makes a thoughtful gift for

adults and children alike! Our adoption packs

include an adorable soft toy, certificate, factfile

and regular updates on our conservation work.

Order online at bit.ly/GCT-adoptions or via the

payment form for £42.

Galapagos clothing

GCT counts on the support of

many wonderful volunteers,

and last year we were

lucky enough to have Land

Economy student Patrick

Brownlow spend some time

with us quantifying GCT’s

carbon footprint, as part

of our efforts to operate

in an environmentally

sustainable way. Patrick,

who also volunteered for

us at Galapagos Day, made

a great impression on the

team, so we were delighted to receive this photo from him just

after Christmas. Every year, Patrick’s parents organise charity gifts

for the family, and this year they bought everyone a GCT T-shirt

from our Teemill store! If you want to look as stylish as Patrick and

his family, check out our growing range of sustainable fashion at

galapagosconservationtruststore.com

Spring | Summer 2025

23


© Kelvin Boot

GCT Supporter Cruises

Conservation-focused cruises with exclusive project visits

If you are considering a trip to Galapagos, this is the way to do it. Our GCT cruises, in collaboration with

Steppes Travel, offer you a unique experience you won’t find anywhere else. Travelling on board the luxurious

yacht Natural Paradise, with a maximum of 15 paying guests, you will experience the very best Galapagos has

to offer during an action-packed ten days. You will be accompanied by a GCT expert and a hand-picked local

guide, with exclusive behind-the-scenes project visits that aren’t available to other tourists. What’s more, you

will travel in the knowledge that your trip is helping to fund vital conservation work.

For more information, visit galapagosconservation.org.uk/gct-cruise

or contact Kelly Hague: kelly@gct.org / 020 7399 7440

16 – 25 November 2025 (one cabin remaining)

30 November – 9 December 2025

10 days / 9 nights from £7,495 per person

In association with

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