Smorgasboarder 62

2025
smorgasboarder
SURF
magazine
issue #62
Ben O’Donoghue
Life of Riles + Poster
Marcus Paladino
And more...

SHOP ONLINE OR AT THE GERRINGONG MEGASTORE

smorgasboarder
62
36
44
73
issue #62
contents
10 Reader Photos
20 News
34 Controversy
36 Ben O’Donoghue
44 Life of Riles + Poster
54 Callum Robson
62 Duality
73 More than just waves
83 Hang 10
88 Tech Talk
90 Quiver
98 Aloha Barry
smorgasboarders
Editorial | Amber O’Dell
amber@smorgasboarder.com.au
0420 615 107
Editorial | Dave Swan
dave@smorgasboarder.com.au
0401 345 201
Advertising | Nicky Spencer
nicky@smorgasboarder.com.au
0405 271 247
Social Media | Phoebe Swan
phoebe@smorgasboarder.com.au
0459 705 404
New Zealand | Jiff Morris
jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz
0220 943 913
South Australia | Jimmy Ellis
james@smorgasboarder.com.au
0410 175 552
Design | Horse & Water Creative
mark, vale, helen, sarah, florencia
mark@horseandwater.com.au
Accounts | Louise Gough
louise@smorgasboarder.com.au
2025
Ben O’Donoghue
smorgasboarder
SURF
magazine
Life of Riles + Poster
Marcus Paladino
issue #62
And more...
our cover
Photo: Kane Mcmillan
Surfer: Wano Liao
get involved
Got any stories, photos, ideas, or
new and interesting surf-related stuff
you want to share? Drop us a line at
editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au.
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Smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media PTY LTD ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at time of going to press. The publication
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without prior permission.

see the
wood

for the seas...
Make sure to visit us at the Evolution of the Wood Surfboard exhibition
Friday 26 SEPT - Tuesday 14 Oct 2025 / Hazelhurst Art Gallery
Eco-conscious. Sustainable. Hand-made.
High performance. All Australian. Built to last.
Boards. Kits. Fins. Blanks. Accessories. BALSA BOARD BUILDING COURSES.
balsasurfboardsriley.com.au

Foreword
PASSION PROJECTS
Passion projects, those labours of love that you do
because you want to, not always because you get paid
to. Sometimes, if the planets align, those things you
love can even turn a dollar, which is always a benefit if
you’re keen to keep doing ‘that thing’.
Smorgasboarder, for the greater part of the last 16
years, has been our passion project, and never has
that passion shone through more than when we were
given a week to wrap this edition up before the federal
election. (Our printers lock down for the election. And
no, we clearly don’t print the magazine overseas on the
cheap. We choose to support Australian businesses.
That’s something we are also passionate about.)
Anyhow, we love putting the magazine together, and
heh, one day, we might even make a dollar... ha, ha.
Speaking of which, if you enjoy what we do and want to
show us a little love, buy a home delivery subscription
or promote your business in our mag. Even the smallest
bit of support enables us to keep doing what we love
doing.
In this edition we explore other people’s passions,
folks like Riley O’Dea. Riley is a FIFO worker in western
Queensland, but when he’s back home on the coast,
he can’t think of anything better than going surfing or
photographing people surfing. Surf photography is his
passion, and boy does this bloke have some natural
talent.
We were also incredibly fortunate to catch up with
renowned chef, restauranteur, and former presenter
of the TV show Surfing the Menu, Ben O’Donoghue.
What a character he was, with some very funny and
fascinating stories to tell, ranging from surf trips to his
career in kitchens working with the likes of Jamie Oliver
and cooking for dignitaries such as Barack Obama, the
former President of the United States.
Then there’s Callum Robson, a former tradie and pro
surfer on the WSL Championship Tour, Lisette Drew
and where she drew inspiration for surfing 30 days
straight, and a story from a bloke on other the other
side of the world.
Marcus Paladino’s work blows away so much, he has
become a regular contributor to Smorgasboarder. If
that wasn’t enough, there are words from some of
our favourite shapers whose passion for what they do
shines through as clear as day. We also have heaps and
heaps of stunning photos from our passionate readers,
particularly some crackers from the recent Ex-Tropical
Cyclone Alfred.
Finally, one of our greatest passions in the studio is
humour. If you’re serious all the time, it gets boring
real quick. There is nothing better than those deep
belly laughs that make you cry and your stomach hurt.
Laughter makes life worth living, and to that end, there
is nothing more Australian and absolutely hilarious than
taking the mickey out of your mates.
Usually, it is at our own expense – Mark’s crap surfing
or our super special friend Curl. The word ‘special’ isn’t
meant to be a compliment. In this edition, however, we
take aim at our friend and surfer/cyclist extraordinaire
Dane Jones and his love of spandex.
Envisioning this ‘spokesperson’ in his peloton version
of a mankini will have you rolling around in fits of
laughter, and one day, when we get our hands on the
photographic evidence, we will share it with you. Crack
a smile, have a read, and enjoy.
6

Foreword
Photo by Tony Piper
7

SUNZAPPER.COM.AU

Welcome
to the Team
Leihani Zoric
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Reader Photos
tonypiperphotography
Tony Piper
Alexandra Headland, sometime during Ex-Cyclone Alfred
10

Reader Photos
11

12

Reader Photos
bayleyreeder South East QLD
Jake Killen
13

14
Reader Photos

Reader Photos
gbvision_active
Glen Bucklar Tea Tree
15

Reader Photos
Glen Bucklar
Little Cove
Mason Schremmer
16

Reader Photos
Glen Bucklar
Tea Tree
valecovatta
Valeria Covatta Alexandra Headland
17

Valeria Covatta Alexandra Headland
Reader Photos
valecovatta
18

Reader Photos
fluid_images
Anthony Lombardi
Currimundi
19

News
In the zone
It’s always super exciting to hear about the wins of
our good friends here at Smorgasboarder.
Which is why we want to give a special
congratulations to Hugh Powell – partner, Sunshine
Coast leader, and overall legend at Travis Schultz
& Partners – on being recognised as a Queensland
Law Society (QLS) Accredited Specialist in Personal
Injury Law!
As the genius behind Smorgasboarder’s former
‘Above Board’ columns, this very prestigious
accreditation is a testament to Hugh’s dedication
and expertise, proving that he is just as amazing in
law as he is amongst the waves.
With seven accredited specialists, Travis Schultz &
Partners proudly holds the highest number among
independent firms in Queensland – insane!
Well done Hugh and the entire team.
WE BUY AND SELL SECOND HAND BOARDS
Attention all
longboard lovers
angleseasurfcentre.com.au
Ph: 0352631530 @anglesea_surf_centre
111 Great Ocean Road, Anglesea VIC 3230
Aloha Barry
Hardcover
Sand in my crack
Perfect for a laugh
on Mother’s Day.
OUT NOW!
FREE DELIVERY
with code:
FREEBAZ
The Clarence Head Longboarders present the 2025 Yamba
Single Fin Classic, hitting Yamba this June long weekend –
Saturday 7th, Sunday 8th, and Monday 9th.
With events for all, including male and female age divisions,
juniors, plus the timber and old mal division, there’s a wave
waiting for you. And guess what? They’re also giving away five
longboards, worth nearly $10,000.
Sign in Friday, June 6th, at 6:30pm at The Wobbly Chook,
26 Coldstream Street, Yamba and register now by
emailing yambasinglefin@gmail.com
or via the Clarence Head Longboarders
Facebook.
See you in the surf!
Books, t-shirts, merch and limited
edition Aloha Barry bundles available at
smorgasboarder.com.au
20

Evolution
of the
wood surfboard
If you love your surfboards, the history of the craft, and
in particular, those of the wooden variety, we suggest
you get along to the upcoming exhibition of the Evolution
of the Wood Surfboard to be held at the prestigious
Hazlehurst Art Gallery in Gymea (south of the Sydney CBD on
your way to Cronulla) from Friday 26th September to Tuesday
14th October. Over 30 wooden surfboards will be on display.
Notable guests attending the event and speaking on all things
surfboards include Dave Matherson and John Veage, formerly of the
famed Jackson Surfboards, in addition to Mitchell Ray from Outer
Island Surfboards, Dick Van Straalen, and Bob McTavish.
There will be a range of mini shows and presentations conducted
throughout the three weeks, including the history of wooden surfboards,
Jackson Surfboards formative years, the story behind the use of
balsawood in surfboard craft, women and wood boards, and an exposé
of how foam core and solid balsawood surfboards are made.
Entry to the gallery is free. There will be donation boxes with QR
codes for any donations. Attendance to the mini shows is $10, and
raffle tickets to win a custom balsawood surfboard are $2. All monies
raised will be donated to mental health support initiatives such as Find
Ya Feet and Dads4Kids.
To find out more go to:
balsawoodsurfboardsriley.com
RRP
$279.95
New factory
address
By the time this mag hits the streets, the new Oke
Surfboard factory in Mornington will be close to opening
or have opened. In all honesty, and I say this with the
greatest sincerity, if you want an awesome surfboard
of any description, talk to Rory, Dan, Choc, and
any of the crew. They are incredible craftsman and
incredible people. We love them like family.
Pictured here is the last surfboard that was
produced at their former Thornside factory, the
home of Oke surfboards for more than 28 years.
Said Rory of the creation, “If you’d asked me what
I reckon the last board finished out of the factory
would be, a 4” thick asymmetrical with a handle
probably wouldn’t have been my guess... but
there ya go!”
Their new address is 41 Progress
Street, Mornington, Victoria.
(03) 95873553
okesurfboards.com
Sore ribs cutting short
your time in the water?
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PaddleAir has supplemented their range of rib
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The Rib Rocket Pro’s padding cushions the impact
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The best surf gear
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P: 0414 681 889
thesurfguru.com.au
21

Nevaeh catches
first wave at
Backdoor!
Before
Wall of water
When the outside wall of Island Surfboards’
shop and adjoining surfboard factory kept being
repeatedly spraypainted, they wondered how to
address the rampant acts of vandalism.
They came up with a plan to paint the said wall with
a beautiful mural, believing this would deter future
such acts.
It sounded like quite the masterful plan, that is
until they commissioned Darren Marks, aka Curl,
who puts together Aloha Barry for this esteemed
publication. I mean, the guy struggles to put
together an A4 page every three months, let alone
Idea sketch
paint a wall some bloody 50 metres long. Anyhow,
he somehow pulled it off, and we must admit it
looks quite impressive.
Congrats Curl, awesome work. Now where’s our
bloody cartoon for this edition?
If you’re interested in engaging Curl for a
commission, you can reach out to him on his
Instagram, @curlpri, or give us a call. We will
look after you and will be sure to see your
money make its way to Curl (wink, wink).
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Not only is SeaZinc long lasting and smells good,
but is also is reef safe and kid safe with packaging
that is completely non-plastic and recyclable.
Love the sea. SeaZinc.
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BUSINESS FOR SALE
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Planned owner retirement has created a unique
opportunity to acquire a portfolio of heritage Surf Brands
– this is a once in a generation opportunity.
This is a small privately owned Surf Business that has
signifi cant prospects. Strong margins make the business
attractive. It could attract as an add-on purchase or a personal
opportunity for you and your family to pursue your passion by
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providers in Australia and NZ.
INTERESTED?
EMAIL : STEWARTAB2018@GMAIL.COM
22

News
Ghost racks
Ghost Racks – display racks that
focus on the boards, showing them
off in all their glory – are made
out of super strong clear acrylic
and are near invisible, hence the
name. They come in a vast range,
including corner, horizontal, vertical,
freestanding, overhead, skateboard,
snowboard, guitar… you name it.
Ghost Racks cater for a vast array
of plan shapes and fin setups too.
As regular readers know, we love
them here at Smorgasboarder, and
once again have a set of them up
for grabs for a lucky reader!
We’ll pick a winner on Friday 23rd May 2025, so you
have plenty of time to enter. We will announce the winner
on our Instagram via an update to our GHOST RACKS
COMPETITION post.
This competition is open to Smorgasboarder readers
worldwide. The prize will be your choice of either a vertical or
horizontal wall rack from the Ghost Racks surf range. We will
even post the racks to you at their expense!
This is a game of chance.
How to enter:
1. Follow our Smorgasboarder Instagram page.
2. Like our GHOST RACKS COMPETITION post.
3. Repost it on Instagram.
4. Tag Smorgasboarder and Ghost Racks in your repost.
It’s that simple
A CHRISTMAS
miracle!
In 2023, a young lady named Eryn found the best Christmas gift ever
under the tree – Santa had delivered a brand-new Voodoo Child 6’4” x 22”
x 2’ 5/8” Kaizen surfboard, set up and ready to ride as a twin-fin rocket.
After plenty of rides and months of fun,
tragedy struck in December 2024 – just two
weeks before Christmas. A trip to Double
Island Point ended with the surf spot earning
its name – start with one board, end with
two… two pieces, that is (see Dane’s quiver
on page 90 for more proof of this).
So, with a clean snap through the board, it
would seem that it was destined for the wall,
or worse – the bin!
But no! Unbeknownst to Eryn, Steveo (the
shaper who had made the board, and
best of the Christmas elves) put his
hand up to dive confidently and
immediately into a rescue
job, returning the board fully
restored, stronger than ever,
and embellished with hibiscus
artwork to celebrate the repair.
After a devastating loss of a favourite board,
finding that same board back under the
tree for the next Christmas morning was a
truly magic moment for all. And all thanks
to Steveo and the kind of personal care and
service you can only get from your friendly
local shaper.
Steveo, a.k.a the best of the
Christmas elves
23

News
Going Through a Phaze
There’s been a lot of people frothing of late on Mitchell Rae’s Phaza design since Harry Bryant surfed
it in the Pipe Masters, threading some beautiful barrels while taking out a lot of big names in the
process. We caught up with Mitchell briefly before this edition went to print to discuss the design.
“The first Phaza, which I made for Harry, has been a fabulous
success and has become one of his favourite go-to boards.
"He surfed it a lot in Hawaii and had a really good run with it at
the Pipe Masters, as you know. It’s his go-to daily driver now.
“As a matter of fact, we have just updated Harry to the next
level with the V2Flex construction. It’s an exciting departure
from mainstream board design.
“In terms of the design itself, as you are aware, I draw my
inspiration from nature, specifically the birds of the air and the
fish of the sea. They have the ability to change their shape and
form while in motion.
“I’ve been going down a path of incorporating flex in a controlled
pattern to my designs since the 70s. Simply put, I find it brings
a board to life.
Mitchell’s Phaza design features his V2Flex construction, which
is essentially an inverted V stringer as opposed to a central
single stringer. It helps the tail 1/3 of the board come alive with
flex and produce added propulsion and drive for insane speed.
2/3 of the board features a subtle concave, feathering into a
soft roll concave with rail jets under the toe and heel. A rail
chine and V combination entry under the nose keeps the Phaza
loose and catch-free.
Medium-low rails with a crisp tucked-under edge all the way
around the board enhance drive and traction, creating a
positive and continuous flow through turns.
“The design takes aim at energy pocket surfing in all-round
conditions, your everyday board.
"Board lengths range from 5’8” through to mid lengths with
a suggested wave range of two to six feet. The new Mach 2
Phazas can handle double overhead.
“The fin placement and Futures boxes on Harry’s boards have
been altered slightly to suit his heavy back foot attack.
“It was great to have a lengthy conversation with Harry when
we were developing his first board. I received some excellent
and intelligent feedback. That’s the stuff I thrive on.”
24

email: outereye@gmail.com | phone: 02 6655 7007
outerislandsurfboards.com

Bring on the
surf flicks
Believe it or not, we get a lot of readers that write to us
asking for guidance on how to begin creating all kinds
of surf media. Our advice is always the same – just
make it. Get your stuff out there, and you’re already
leagues ahead of where you could be. Where once
there was nothing, now there’s an ode to something
that brings us all together.
26

Film: Children of Teahupo’o | Photo: Arthur Bourbon | 2024 Noosa International Surfilm Festival
It’s for this reason that we love events like the Noosa
International Surfilm Festival. Many of the insane
indie films we’ve featured in Smorgasboarder were
brought to our attention because of festivals like
these – which are often run by the most genuine
people you will ever meet – so we would highly
recommend it to all the film nerds that read this
magazine.
The festival kicks off on Thursday 19th June and
runs for four days, wrapping up with an epic afterparty
on Sunday 22nd June. Presented by Suter
Smith Cleine and supported by the Noosa Council,
the event calls on creators to submit their surfinspired
films, with the categories of Best Feature
Film, Best Cinematography, Best Mid-Length Film,
and Best Short Film up for grabs.
Bringing fresh, exciting content to a stoked
audience, this year there are close to 40 film
submissions from all over the world, including
the United States, Mexico, Chile, Canada, Spain,
Portugal, Ecuador, the United Kingdom, Germany,
and of course, Australia.
Offering young talent the chance to share their
stories and creativity on the big screen, the 2025
program is also introducing GromShorts – a
dedicated category for short surf films under five
minutes in length created by aspiring filmmakers
aged 18 and under.
Festival founder and producer, Jesca Maas, said she
had a vision in 2023 to reignite a communal space
where individuals from diverse backgrounds and
ages converge to share their passion for surfing.
“Our aim was to create an immersive experience in
surf culture on the big screen, breaking away from
the digital streaming world, for a brief yet impactful
gathering.
“This event promises to deliver a program filled
with film, music, and art. Most importantly, it will
be a celebration of the evolving global surf culture,
inviting everyone to embrace its fresh and continual
influences.
“I am passionate about my commitment to crafting
unforgettable experiences for attendees, but beyond
professional pursuits, I am an avid ocean enthusiast
and find the ultimate joy in sunrise SUP sessions
with my two dogs.
“I am supported by a small, dedicated committee of
surf culture enthusiasts, who share a common vision
to create an international event that will showcase
the incredible value of surf films within our culture.”
27

News
All of the photos on this spread were taken from the film submissions for the 2025 event!
The 2025 Noosa International Surfilm Festival is
certainly promising to be pretty exciting, with a
judging panel featuring some of the most influential
names in surf filmmaking and culture, including:
• Taylor Steele – multi-award-winning filmmaker
• Lauren Hill – acclaimed filmmaker and surf culture
podcaster
• Tim Baker – award-winning author, journalist, and
speaker
• Pacha Light – filmmaker, ocean activist, and former
WSL surfer
• Mick Sowry – accomplished producer, writer, and
filmmaker
• Jolyon Hoff – leader of The Surf Film Archive and
award-winning filmmaker
• Peppie Simpson – Australian longboard champion
• Vaughan Blakey – WSL surf commentator, surf
culture expert, surf filmmaker, and muso
• Spencer Frost – award-winning surf filmmaker
• Tom Wegener – filmmaker, surf culture legend, and
sustainable surfboard manufacturer
• Laure Mayer – surfer, entrepreneur, and self-taught
product designer
• Ula Majewski – journalist, photographer, producer,
and environmentalist
Film: Creatures of habit | Photo by Ben Moon
Film: Heirloom | Surfer: Hunter Williams
28

Film: Let me live | Surfer: Tom Lowe
Film: Maya and the wave
Jesca said the festival is about more than just waves – it’s about
stories that move people.
“This year’s judges bring an unparalleled depth of knowledge and
passion. Their influence spans from creating groundbreaking films to
championing the art and history of surfing itself, so filmmakers will
have the honour of showcasing their work to some of the best in the
industry.
“A very important element of the event is the presence of some of
the judges, filmmakers, and film stars. They are more than happy to
share their experience and participate in panels while mingling with
the audience, which is just so wonderful.
“On top of that, the festival is an opportunity for the surf filmmaking
industry crew to meet and network – new projects might just emerge
and flourish. We are thrilled to present this community-driven event
and eager to embark on this exciting journey together!”
The international surf film scene is truly bursting with talent, so
there’s no doubt that this event will showcase the very best,
including inspiring surf stories, stunning cinematography, and
original music screened at Noosa Event Cinemas, followed by Q&A
sessions with beloved surfers and filmmakers.
For those interested, the full program will be announced on May
22nd, with early bird tickets available until 24th May.
For further information about the festival, feel free to visit:
www.noosaisff.com.au.
29

Stuff
Surf Wax
Saver
This nifty little invention called the Surf Wax Saver was created by a ‘bloke
from the Gold Coast’ who was sick and tired of both his wax melting, and
not making the most of his wax, so he developed a solution. Basically, you
stick your wax bits in the box, and if weather permits, which is always in
hot, humid Queensland, the wax melts and reforms into a new block.
RRP $42
surfwaxsaver.com
Knobs
Surf Wax
The greatest surf wax ever made
bar none. Cool, cold, warm and
tropical blends using all natural
ingredients like goji berries and
organic turtle sweat.
Rib Rocket Pro
If you’ve got a soft sternum like my mate Gav, this is the
solution. Jokes aside it delivers supreme padding for your
chest, removing discomfort when paddling. Fashioned like a
lightweight wettie, it’s a ripper.
thesurfguru.com.au
RRP $279.95
3 pack RRP $15
surfknobs.com.au
smorgasboarder.com.au
30

Debunking
sunscreen myths
Our good friends over at Sun Zapper are celebrating their 30th anniversary
this year. Proudly Australian-made and owned, they’ve been protecting
people from sunburn across the world since 1995. Needless to say, three
decades of growth and dedication have made Sun Zapper experts in the
realm of sun care, which is why we’ve asked them to help us debunk
some of the most common sunscreen myths so you can protect your skin
confidently. No jargon – just science-backed facts and smart solutions.
“You don’t need sunscreen on
cloudy days.”
Reality
Up to 80% of UV rays penetrate
clouds. Sun Zapper’s lightweight
SPF 50+ mineral zinc formulas
provide full protection, rain or
shine, with antioxidants to combat
environmental stressors.
“Dark skin doesn’t burn.”
Reality
While melanin offers some natural
protection, all skin tones (including
darker ones) are still vulnerable to
UV damage. Sun Zapper’s coloured
face zinc sticks are perfect for all
skin tones, and their zinc-based
sunscreens protect without leaving
a white cast.
“Higher SPF means all-day
protection.”
Reality
No sunscreen lasts all day. SPF
30 blocks 97% of UVB rays, while
SPF 50 blocks 98%. Even with Sun
Zapper’s 4+ hour water-resistant
technology in their zinc-based
formulas, you should reapply after
swimming or sweating.
“Makeup with SPF is enough.”
Reality
Most makeup only offers SPF 15
to 20 with spotty coverage. For
better protection, try Sun Zapper’s
SPF 50+ tinted moisturiser,
which combines makeup with full
sunscreen protection.
“Sunscreen causes vitamin D
deficiency.”
Reality
You only need 10 to 15 minutes
of sun exposure daily for vitamin
D. Sun Zapper’s mineral zinc
formulations block harmful UVA
rays while still allowing for enough
UVB exposure for natural vitamin D
production.
“Chemical sunscreens are
dangerous.”
Reality
Sun Zapper uses next-gen mineral
zinc filters like Tinosorb S that are
reef-friendly, non-irritating, and
meet strict United Kingdom and
Australian safety standards. As
such, their formulas provide safe,
effective sun protection.
“One application lasts all day.”
Reality
Reapply every two hours outdoors.
Sun Zapper’s pocket-sized coloured
face zinc sticks make midday touchups
easy, whether over makeup or
bare skin.
“Sunscreen never expires.”
Reality
Active ingredients degrade over
time. Sun Zapper uses stabilisation
technology for a three-year shelf
life, and each product has a batch
code to ensure freshness.
“You can’t tan with sunscreen.”
Reality
Tanning = skin damage. Arm
yourself with the right protection
and knowledge. Sun Zapper’s
dermatologist-tested mineral zinc
formulas block 100% of UVA and
UVB rays, keeping your skin healthy
while you enjoy the outdoors.
Beachstreet Surf Shop
It’s all about surfing!
We're a core surf shop locally owned and operated
just up from Fitzroy Beach. We stock surfing
products for all types of wave riding, and we're home
to local brands Lost in the 60's and Blacksand.
Trade-ins ding repairs equipment hire SUP & surf coaching
beachstreetnz
BeachstreetNZ
+64 6 758 0400
chip@hotmail.co.nz
From their early days 30 years ago to becoming a globally trusted name in
sun protection, Sun Zapper have been right there for surfers through every
adventure. Thanks legends.
31

Controversy
Staff
&Stuff
Words by Jase John
There are many ‘warm fuzzy’ moments
with owning a shop that stocks surf
and snow products.
Perhaps, however, the most sincere and engaging
is that of employing staff who own their place in
the business.
What I mean is, at NZSHRED, we’ve tried to employ
humans who live the products and games we all
play. But more than that, they are the blood of the
shop. The products, the tools, and the kit that we all
need to achieve our dreams of playing outdoors are
their medium.
Employing, creating, and mentoring engaged
staff is critical to good business and to the future
development of both the staff and the shop as a
whole. Without them, we are just a shell – just walls
with kit hanging and a space for boxes or folded stuff
to sit on shelves.
That’s not our game! We try to have engaged staff,
both outside of the walls and roof of the shop and
within. Most of us have to turn up somewhere, do
something, and hopefully get a financial reward for it.
You can’t get much better than to do this immersed
in the tools of the games you love to play.
“You should be as inspired
to get out there and
play, as your place of
employment is, knowing
you are doing so!”
I’m not good inside – I don’t like
being hemmed in. I live for the
opportunities for development,
creativity, and self-expression.
But here’s the irony… this
should be the same way
we play these games
we love – this is how
we properly exude
ourselves into the sports and environments that we
are amazingly passionate about.
It’s a privilege being able to employ people – to
offer them an opportunity to display their talent and
to earn a financial reward in doing so. I think we
forget that sometimes.
It would be a great story to leave there, but that’s
not it – that’s not nearly the end. You’ve created
a good space when you have staff who truly love
what they do! And when we say ‘do’ – that’s not
just their job, it’s what they do!
I remember years ago, having a conversation in a
pub about surfing. Well, it started out about surfing,
but then the semantics started. Bottom line, we
agreed there is a difference between people who
surf and someone who’s a surfer. It’s the same,
you might say, for snowboarders. Some will say
they can snowboard and others will own it – they
are a snowboarder. It’s what they do!
There’s the difference. That same recognition,
appreciation, or acceptance is seated in our staff
who want to work in the business. It’s not just
one thing – it’s the connection, the camaraderie,
the brand mix, and the ethos that a store with
culture develops.
We’re not perfect. We don’t get it right each and
every time. In fact, I asked one of the staff for a
quote about working here for this article, and she
instantly came back with, “I love my job, but the
boss is a pain in the ass.”
In jest, of course, but probably pretty accurate at
times. In reality, staff are an extension of you and
your business. We have both the ability to grow
them, as we do mentor them.
“You can’t be everything
to everyone, but you can be
the best to the most.”
It doesn’t matter whether you’re a customer, staff,
or just a cog in the wheel – be present and available,
and show the passion and energy that you’re
wanting to see from them. The rest is up to the
gods! But, at least you’ll enjoy yourself, and ya crew
will love their time with you!
Thanks Brooke, Rach, Zach, and Nat.
nzshred.co.nz
32

Pedal and Paddle
With over 25 years of experience in recreational activities on
the land and sea, Pedal and Paddle is a cycle and surf store
with soul at the gateway to the Coromandel.
Whether it is a kayak or a stand-up paddleboard, we have enlarged hire fleets available
for you to experience the pristine coast in your own way. Or, if you prefer to explore on
land, we have a comprehensive range of E-bikes for you to traverse the urban jungles
and Mountain Bikes for you to immerse yourself in the forest regions.
Full range of NZ Kayaks,
and all equipment
www.pedalandpaddle.co.nz
Call Chris 027 224 2207
NEW
LOCATION
Winifred Avenue
behind
Whanga Bar.
33

Controversy
Is it okay to wear
Birkenstocks?
Let’s face it, these sandals (and let’s be honest, they are sandals), were cool
back in the 90s, but there is a good reason they went out of fashion.
Back then, grunge was in and so too was long hair, and so it was cool to
resemble Jesus. To come clean and confess, I even had a pair. Surfer bum/
hobo chic is what I refer to this phase of my life as.
However, fashion moves on, and thank goodness for that, but these days
we have guys sporting fade haircuts, bucket loads of hair product, and
immaculately groomed beards, and they’re just way too prissy and preened
to wear Birkenstocks.
It’s a complete contradiction, like wearing dress shoes with no socks
and pants that stop short of the ankles… Wait up – that is a fashion
trend nowadays. Oh boy! The youth of today have a lot to answer for.
Now, I appreciate that in my initial rant I am referring to men and
boys, but what about the ladies? Well, as I recently read on a
Reddit forum, if you’re of the female gender and wear these
moulded cork flip-flops, you’re clearly not too concerned about
attracting anyone from the opposite sex any time soon.
Yes, you heard correct – Birkenstocks, or ‘Birks’ as they
are affectionately known by the offenders, are a form
of contraception. Wearing them with socks is like
donning a hazmat suit.
Some may argue they are extremely
comfortable and last forever, blah blah blah,
but the same could be said for Crocs, and
those things are just plain wrong. Don’t get
me started on those Swiss Cheese plastic
clogs. Years from now, they are going to be
dug up in some post-apocalyptic nuclear
war rubble and the people of the day are
going to wonder what kind of psychedelics
we were on.
Nonetheless, back to Birks – as soon as I
start hearing the words ‘therapeutic’ and
‘contoured to your feet’, I see this as an
attempt by Birk sympathisers to disguise the
fact they don’t mind looking like an elderly
German tourist.
Interestingly, a bit of history here for you – Birks
were founded back in 1774 by Johann Adam
Birkenstock and headquartered in Germany, and
in fairness, they were no doubt fashionable back
then. The harsh reality is their closest competition
at the time was probably going barefoot or wearing
gumboots.
Anyhow, by 1925, Birkenstocks were sold all over
Europe. Then, in 1966, they got their big break when
Margot Fraser brought Birkenstocks to the United
States and started selling them out of health stores,
which is part of the reason why they’ve always
been associated with stoned-off-their-chop hippies
ever since.
Let’s face it, the free love teens of the sixties didn’t
wash, so they were none too concerned about how
they looked. Plus, they probably thought they could
smoke them at the end of their lifespan.
You have to give it to the old Birkenstocks though –
despite being pitched to Hitler’s youth as the foot fashion
to wear back in the 1930s, they have come a long way.
Whoops, hopefully that bit of trivia just didn’t spell the
demise of them.
Somewhat controversial? Maybe. Damn wrong in terms of how
they look? Most certainly. Along with mankinis, perms, and aerobics
gear from the 80s, Birks should not be worn for any reason.
They’re just plain wrong.
34
Words by Dave Swan

36

Ben O’Donoghue
Living
legend
Words by Amber O’Dell
When speaking with Ben O’Donoghue, it quickly
becomes clear that he really gets around.
I mean, the man has travelled everywhere, worked
in classy restaurants around the world, starred on
multiple television series, met the Queen (twice),
written tonnes of books, surfed in some insane places,
and even cooked for Barack Obama… all while
fostering a loving family and getting himself into all
sorts of strange mischief along the way.
But I have to admit, as a 23-year-old, I had absolutely
no idea who he was before he so graciously accepted
to drive up from Brisbane to meet us here on the
Sunshine Coast.
The pure hype from everyone else in the
Smorgasboarder office definitely piqued my interest
though… something about a famous Aussie chef, a
celebrity crush, and a nostalgic cooking and lifestyle
show called ‘Surfing the Menu’, which aired between
2003 and 2006.
Needless to say, my work was cut out for me. It’s a
common stereotype for people my age (I’m actually
not one to be dismissive of everything before my time),
but how on earth was ignorant young me supposed to
connect with such an icon?
For many, Ben is the face of old obsessions and good
memories. He even inspired a good deal of people to
pick up a surfboard for the first time, which is probably
why hearing his name was such a special thing for
everyone else in the office – it took them back. His
influence felt like a vibe, not something I could just
research and understand.
The giddiness of my workmates spurred me on
though. I did my research – I watched a show or two,
asked my parents, and found out what he’s been up
to. Nowadays, Ben’s the executive head chef of the
best and most sophisticated farm-to-table steakhouse
in Fortitude Valley, The 203.
It was a little intimidating… but when this Aussie
icon and celebrity chef rocked up to our humble little
office overlooking Alexandra Headland, Hawaiian shirt
and all, all my worries disappeared. As it turns out,
Ben is the most laid-back guy ever, and one hell of a
storyteller.
I really do wish we could just drop all his crazy tales
right here. Honestly, his life could probably fill an entire
anthology series. He had us hooked from the very
beginning, when he described his illustrious career and
how he first got into television.
“I have a strong Italian background, so my work
overseas has been primarily in Italian restaurants.
I was at the River Café for five years – a Michelinstarred
restaurant in London – and every now and then
37

we used to do trips to Italy and visit different regions to get inspiration,
eat, drink, and source new products like olive oil. Working in that
establishment was a really special time in my career.
“That’s when I met Jamie Oliver. We started about three days apart
and worked in the same sort of areas. He’s super funny, and we got on
really well. They did a TV show at the River Café, which is sort of where
Jamie first got discovered. When he did his show, he asked a couple of
chefs to get involved. I used to live around the corner from him in Old
Street in East London, so I often helped him out with food styling for his
cookbook and other stuff.
“His agent asked me if I would be interested in doing some TV work.
I didn’t think it would hurt, so I said yes and ended up getting heaps
of jobs on daytime television. I built up my CV through Carlton Food
Network, Planet Food, The Food Network, and those sorts of channels,
but things really started happening when we made a show called The
Best, which ran for ten episodes on BBC Two.
“Jamie and I opened a restaurant together after that, but then someone
approached both my agent and Curtis Stone’s to see if we’d be
interested in doing this TV show in Australia called Surfing the Menu. At
the time, I’d only met him once before.”
Now Curtis Stone, I definitely know. His face is plastered all over
television, not to mention the Coles ads. Yet, despite going on to mingle
with overseas celebrities like Oprah, Ellen, and the like, apparently he
was the sh*ttier surfer of the two, which we found just hilarious.
You could tell Ben was way too happy divulging this information.
“Curtis couldn’t surf. I could, but I was a kneeboarder, so most people
say that doesn’t count – we’re a dying breed. Anyway, I remember we
had a photoshoot for Surfing the Menu in Esperance, Western Australia.
On that particular day, it was so f*cking windy. We were surfing together
and had to catch a wave simultaneously. The number of times it took
to get Curtis to stand up at the same time as me… jeez, it was a long
shoot. I always say that he makes me look good in the water, and I make
him look good on land.
“He’s a good-looking rooster and has some great restaurants. When
we did Surfing the Menu season three, we teased the next series, so
we were all keyed up to do New Zealand. Curtis had done a pilot in
America for Take Home Chef, but unbeknownst to him, the agent had
done a strict deal. Not even two months away from going into the full
production of season four, he gets a message from America saying
they’re going ahead with the pilot. He wanted to carve out some time for
Surfing the Menu, but they said no.
“They did 120 episodes of that, and Curtis sort of took off from there.
Of course, the producers of our show had to scramble after that, but we
ended up finding a New Zealand guy, Mark Gardner, to take me around.
The show was so good. Even now I enjoy watching it – I’ve got all the
DVDs. We just had such a ball making it. It was a proper lifestyle show
as opposed to just a straight-up cooking show.”
Every year for Surfing the Menu, Ben and Curtis would escape their
kitchens and tour a myriad of different locations across Australia –
from the Fleurieu Peninsula in South Australia to the Tiwi Islands
in the Northern Territory – using the fresh ingredients they found
along the way to inspire their dishes.
Ben said he considers himself very lucky to be guided through
such remote, secretive places. While each destination was as
unique as the next, one of the standouts for him was Kakadu.
For many, Ben is the face
of old obsessions and
good memories. He even
inspired a good deal of
people to pick up
a surfboard for
the first time
38

Every year for Surfing the Menu,
Ben and Curtis would escape their
kitchens and tour a myriad of
different locations across Australia
– from the Fleurieu
Peninsula in South
Australia to the Tiwi
Islands in the Northern
Territory – using the fresh
ingredients they found along the way
to inspire their dishes.
“We were with this group of Traditional Owners and young kids, and we just got
access to the most amazing places. I remember fishing in this little billabong,
and with every cast we pulled out some barramundi. It was the best experience.
They prepared some amazing food for us, and then we cooked for them, and they
just loved it. New Zealand was really interesting too. We flew from Queenstown
by helicopter over The Remarkables and these temperate rainforests that looked
Jurassic.
“We came over this ridge which opened up to a place called Big Bay – four bays
up from the Milford Sound. The only way you can get there is by helicopter, and it
was just corduroy lines after lines. Mark and I went surfing as the only guys there,
with the cameramen in the water. It was a perfect A-frame with five-foot waves.
After we got out, we went over to the other side of the bay where there was this
little tin shed with a light left-hander breaking in front of a big, bouldery sort of
beach.
“The owner’s got two dead deer hanging up on the veranda, and when we go
inside, all the furniture is covered in possum fur. The only downside was that, from
the minute the sun came up to the minute it went down, you were eaten alive by
sandflies – you couldn’t get your wetsuit on fast enough. You just get smashed by
these things. I actually ended up getting a really bad reaction to it. But yeah, New
Zealand was just off the chart with amazing food and people.
One of the places that fascinates us most is the Abrolhos Islands – both from a
surfing perspective and because of its sheer remoteness. As you can imagine, we
were delighted to find out that Ben thought the archipelago was pretty awesome
too.
“It’s basically a bunch of coral reefs, and fishermen live there in these little tin
shacks with jetties. I remember we were hand-feeding these huge, prized eating
fish – they’d just swim up and take stuff out of your hand. One nearly took my arm
off. We wanted to go surfing there after chugging out on this crayfishing boat, but
five sharks were following behind, so of course Curtis shut that down. There was
no way he was going in, but it looked amazing.
“The funniest thing ever was when Luc Longley was our guide over on Rottnest
Island – he’s an Australian basketball player that used to play for the Chicago Bulls
with Scottie Pippen and Michael Jordan. He’s a mountain of a man. He took us
over there on his boat, and we ended up surfing this place called Chicken Reef.
Curtis borrowed his board, which was handmade for Luke in Hawaii by this guru
longboard shaper.
39

“Curtis is out there with this big board, but before we knew
it he got washed inside and dragged across this gnarly
reef with sea urchins all through it. It’s like the one place
you don’t want to end up, especially with no wetsuit. When
we got back to the hotel, we ended up watching footage
of Curtis trying to pick his way across the reef with this
massive board – you could just see the horror on his face.
The emotion was so funny. Luke’s beautiful board was so
f*cked. I think Curtis was probably more upset about telling
this 7’2″ dude about his board than how hurt he was. It was
probably the worst experience he’d ever have in the ocean.
As much as we like to tease here at Smorgasboarder (it’s
indeed a form of flattery), I’m in no position to judge poor
Curtis. I’m not a strong surfer myself, so I’d run for the hills
if anyone asked me to pack up my things and surf in some
of the scariest, most remote breaks in Australia – alongside
the conniving Ben and in front of a camera, no less. At least
he’s got guts.
Although, hearing that Ben and some abalone divers played
a trick on him in the murky waters of Port Lincoln in South
Australia was pretty funny.
“I was sh*tting myself because it’s the heartland of some of
the biggest sharks in the world, and we were going to be in
six-foot-deep eerie water with kelp everywhere, with only
one cage you can use for refuge. So I got a shark fin from
the fish markets and tied it to some empty bottles. On the
day we went out, we were talking to Curtis the whole time
about these sharks, and the abalone divers were awesome
– they told him the worst stories.
I’m a mad
fisherman, so if
the surf wasn’t any
good, I’d row into the
middle of the lake
and fly fish.
“Even I was starting to feel a little bit nervous. We wanted
to get Curtis really wound up, because we were going
to drag the shark fin out. It didn’t quite work the way we
wanted it to… the wind was too strong, but he still called
me a bloody as*hole for doing it. If you go back and have a
look at that footage, you could see he was terrified.
“When it comes to future travels, one of my dreams is to
take a good surf trip to Bali. Other places on my bucket
list are Ecuador and Chile. I’d love to go back to Ireland
too – my dad’s from there, so I used to go there all the time
to see family and just catch a plane, hire a car, and drive
straight over to Sligo. I’m a mad fisherman, so if the surf
wasn’t any good, I’d row into the middle of the lake and fly
fish. I didn’t ever catch anything, but it was still amazing.
You’d see mayflies dropping down on the lake and getting
smashed by trout. It’s a really good place, with great surf
as well.
Of course, as with every Smorgasboarder interview, we
just had to ask… had Ben ever experienced a situation
while surfing where he thought he might be on the menu?
From all accounts, it seems like he’s been to some pretty
far-flung places, some known for their sharky waters.
Ben laughed, before giving us a definite yes.
“Rottnest over in Western Australia is always scary. I lived
there for a year after I finished high school – that was a
bit of a dream. I could surf twice a day, whether it was at
Thomson Bay or at Chicken Reef. When surfing there during
salmon season, you’ll see shark fins. My closest shark
encounter, however, was in South Africa.
“I was travelling there in ‘96 before I went to London. As it
turns out, Cape Town’s got a heap of kneeboarders. It was
amazing, because I went to one of the local surf shops and
it was just packed to the brim with kneeboards. I started
talking to the guy that owned it and got invited to participate
in the Eastern Province Kneeboarding competition, so I met
a heap of people there.
“Me and this Aussie guy I was travelling with were surfing
in this place called Noordhoek, which is south of Cape
Town near Hout Bay. It’s an awesome beach with big,
curved breaks and nice six-foot waves. It was just us on this
A-frame in the afternoon. I was paddling out to catch my
last set, and as I peaked, I just saw this huge thing pop up.
It was quite a significant size as well – over three metres –
and then I saw the fin. When you see sharks in that part of
the world, they’re going to be only one type of shark.
40

“Other than that, I’ve never really felt on the menu. I mean,
if your time’s up, your time’s up. Growing up in Western
Australia, I was right out on the cape, but I’ve never felt
threatened. Nowadays, there are people getting eaten
by sharks down there all the time. I guess there are more
people in the water, and I think the way the ocean currents
are changing has an effect on where these animals are
moving.”
Despite surfing in all kinds of striking places around
Australia and across the world, Ben’s favourite breaks are
right at home, along south Stradbroke Island and the Gold
Coast, or at D-Bah (Duranbah Beach) and Broken Head.
Ben told us he has a humble quiver of three boards,
including beauties from David Parkes Kneeboards in Byron
Bay and Friar Tuck Kneeboards in Sydney.
“I do need to upgrade my bigger board, because it’s
getting a bit old now and doesn’t get much action. My
boys don’t surf, but I’ve only got myself to blame for that.
Being a kneeboarder, I never taught them how to stand up,
and they never wanted to kneeboard. I suppose I was a bit
selfish in that regard.
“I was born in the UK but moved to Australia in 1975.
When it rained in Western Australia during the cyclone
season, our street used to flood, so when the trucks came
through, you could surf the floodwater with foamies. Every
year we used to drive from Port Hedland to Yallingup
with the dogs and the whole house on the roof. We’d go
camping for a month every Christmas and surf down there.
“My boys are more into climbing and music, which I
suppose is where I share my passion as well – I play
bass. The band I’m in is called ‘Not Actually Them’, and
we do covers. I’ve only played a couple of gigs – our
lead singer is a chef as well, so it’s hard to line things up
sometimes. My son’s in a band called Blatant Saint, and
they’re doing pretty good and playing a lot of gigs in town
at the moment. My daughter also has some songs up on
Spotify, but she’s kind of drifted away from singing and
songwriting.
“I guess I’ve always loved music. I played the trumpet
when I was young, and I’ve got a good connection to the
music industry. I’ve even chatted with John Collins from
Powderfinger, who I found out is also a kneeboarder.”
This whole kneeboarder stuff really spreads like a plague,
huh. Luckily, before we could pay him out for the calibre
of surfer he associates himself with (we’re only joking, we
love surfers of all varieties – we’re Smorgasboarder after
all), Ben started talking about his encounters with some of
the most distinguished people known to history. That shut
us up pretty quickly.
Barack even came back
for seconds, so I had a bit of
banter with him. Apparently he
worked out in the morning, so
he had every right to dig in.
He loved it.
As it turns out, in 2014, he was approached by the 28th
prime minister of Australia, Tony Abbott, and asked if
he’d like to work on a menu for the G20 Leaders’ Summit,
which was to be held in Brisbane that year. Ben told us
that it was because he was a huge Surfing the Menu fan.
“I was like, f*ck yes. I did some tastings with the G20
team, and we designed this great menu with Mooloolaba
king prawns and Moreton Bay bugs – it was just a big
seafood smorgasbord. Tony also wanted lamb, so I did
a big barbeque too. Everyone had a set place to sit,
so I remember the Russian secret service came in and
moved all the cutlery and plates around for Vladimir Putin,
because they were very cautious of poisoning. I also had
the CIA watch me cook, which was a weird experience.
“When the royal and world leaders came through, I had to
explain the dishes. No one touched the Moreton Bay bug
because it sounded like an insect, but as soon as I said it
was lobster, they were all over it. Barack even came back
for seconds, so I had a bit of banter with him. Apparently
he worked out in the morning, so he had every right to dig
in. He loved it.
“A year or so later, we went to America and stayed in the
San Francisco Intercontinental. Barack was there the same
weekend, so they closed off two whole blocks. There was
just so much security. When we were in the lobby, I saw
the same CIA guy who watched me cook at the G20. He
called me ‘Chef Ben’ and said he’d tell the boss I was here.
I got given some presidential chocolates after that. I’ve
cooked for some famous people, but G20 was definitely
the highlight. I don’t think you get bigger than that.
“I’ve also met the Queen twice. Curtis and I both got
invited to the Buckingham Palace the first time, and it was
really funny. I remember making her laugh after I made
fun of an Australian from the Liberal Party working for a
Conservative Party in the UK. She asked him, ‘Why would
the Conservative Party want an Australian?’ and I said,
‘Because they’re desperate, ma’am.’
“When Prince Phillip came around, it was all very casual.
He’s a real funny old guy and had a laugh taking the piss
out of everyone. He had no protocol and just kind of drifted
behind the Queen. It was so cool. I remember Curtis was
trying to steal sh*t, like an ashtray or something.”
41

Of course, there’s so much
more to Ben’s stories than
what’s written here – we only
have so many pages.
C
M
Y
CM
Of course, there’s so much more to Ben’s stories
than what’s written here – we only have so many
pages. On the day, we also heard about his
fishing adventures with Jamie, some sketchy
situations in South Africa, a trashed apartment
in Noosa’s Hastings Street during the second
season of Surfing the Menu, and more stories of
Curtis, his awful wipeouts, and his unfortunate
lack of understanding when it comes to surf
etiquette.
Today, Ben lives in Brissy with his wife, Dee, and
three children – Ruby, Herb, and Cash. With a
huge smile on his face, he told us he couldn’t be
happier with where he is right now.
“My wife is wonderful. I actually met her through
Jamie in 2000. I was only in Sydney for a week,
so it was a bit of a fling, but there must have
been something there because we kept calling.
Eventually she came over to London for a couple
of weeks, and I took her to Italy. I then spent two
weeks in Sydney and visited Byron Bay to meet
her dad. When I was back in London, I sent her
a $500 cheque and told her she could either buy
a flight or buy whatever – it was up to her. She
ended up moving over, and the rest is history.
“It’s funny – when we first started living together,
she’d make breakfast and I’d be looking over
her shoulder the whole time judging her. When
we had children, she did a lot more cooking, so
I think her skills developed from her interest in
doing something creative for the kids. Dee now
works for Foodbank, which is a charity feeding
everyday people in need throughout Australia.
I’m an ambassador for them as well. It’s so
important, especially with the cost-of-living
crisis. Nearly 400,000 Queenslanders that have
jobs are still struggling to put food on their table.
It’s crazy.
“My kids have always been involved in the
kitchen too – they can wield a knife. Both of the
boys have worked with me in restaurants as
kitchen hands, and now in The 203. I actually got
headhunted for my new role there after selling
my previous Billykart restaurants coming out of
the pandemic. It’s nice to be in business with a
venue that has a lot of great people behind it.
The 203 is really unique in the sense that it’s the
only steak restaurant in Australia that’s owned by
the people who produce the beef. It’s a familyowned
business that has raised cattle for three
generations. When you talk about paddock to
plate – we’re the dream.”
I guess there are a lot of lessons that I can draw
from my meeting with Ben. First, don’t judge how
interesting a book may be based on its cover,
fanbase, or the year it rose to popularity. Second,
just because you know nothing about a book’s
subject matter, doesn’t mean it won’t be one of
the sickest things you’ll ever read.
Third, never underestimate how freaking diverse
the grassroots surfing community is. Truly, I am
so lucky to have the chance to connect with so
many unexpected characters, who I’m sure will be
up there with the most insane, fascinating people
I will ever meet.
Thanks for coming all the way up here Ben –
you’re a legend. If you ever need help writing that
anthology series, I’ll be here.
MY
CY
CMY
K
42

NTO
HE
LOWWords by Dave Swan
Photos by Riley O'Dea
44

Laid back, unassuming,
grounded… we could
have gone with a
myriad of different
headlines for this story
on surf photographer
Riley O’Dea.
Originally from Chinchilla in western Queensland,
Riley’s a pretty chill guy, pardon the pun. Maybe it’s
the country charm and that no-bullshit approach to
life, but he’s quite clearly as down-to-earth as they
come and far from enamoured with himself, as can
sometimes be the case with those involved with the
surf industry.
His photos, in our opinion, for someone who
is a self-proclaimed amateur, are super bloody
impressive. As a matter of fact, when we first
encountered his work, we wondered who the hell
he was. We thought there was no way he could be
doing this as a side gig to his regular FIFO work.
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Hello there, Riley!
Indeed, it is not even a side gig at this stage. It is
more of a passion project. So, we were only too
happy to provide him with the exposure he so
rightly deserves. His personality only gave us more
reason to support him where we could. Riley picks
up the story.
“I grew up on a cattle farm out at Chinchilla. I
moved here about eight years ago. Back home
is pretty barren, so I was keen for a change of
scenery for sure.
“I miss my family, but I am not planning on heading
home anytime soon. I call in and see them every
time I head out for work anyhow. I work in the gas
fields not far from home.”
Given his roots, we were interested in how this
country lad got into surfing in the first place and
what motivated him to pick up a camera.
“I actually didn't get into it straight away. It wasn’t
until I was going through some sh*t in my life,
probably about three years ago, that I eventually
started to try surfing and yeah, it was just unreal. I
guess it was a bit of an outlet and just so, so good.
“My preference is for mid-lengths and longboards.
I have tried the shortboard thing but just wasn’t
getting into it. I am not one to rip it around. I like
how mid-lengths are kind of cruisy and mellow.
“With the photography side of things, I have always
done a bit here and there. With that said, I had
never done any ocean or water photography. I just
remember watching a Xavier Rudd music video
when I was a little bit younger, and he was surfing in
it. And I guess that’s where the interest began, but I
just never had the balls to pursue it.”
Nowadays, Riley shoots on both land and water.
When it comes to his surf photography, one of his
regular haunts is in and around Noosa National
Park. Needless to say, we were interested in how he
handled the crowds and personalities out there.
“My partner is friends with a number of the surfers
there, like Em Niwa, who I shoot regularly, so that
always helps. In all honesty though, I don’t know
all the surfers out there and I struggle to approach
people. I prefer it when they approach me and ask if
I have got any shots of them.”
To that end, we were curious where Riley picked up
the skills in the first place. We were stoked to hear
it was in large part due to Tom Woods, whose work
has graced the pages of Smorgasboarder more than
a couple of times.
“I had a few mates that helped push me into surf
photography, but it was Tom Woods who played
a huge part in my development. Tom was a big
inspiration and taught me so much.
“I found him on Instagram a few years ago and saw
he was running a photography course and thought
it looked sick.
"Prior to that, I was just looking through Insta
and YouTube trying to learn how to improve my
photography. I did his course, and it was huge.”
When it comes to gear, Riley’s weapon of choice is
a Nikon Z7 with an Aquatech housing.
As with all photographers, he’s keen to upgrade,
but it’s not a cheap passion to pursue. Speaking of
pursuing passions, we asked him where he wants to
take his photography.
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My preference is for mid-lengths and
longboards. I have tried the shortboard
thing but just wasn’t getting into it. I am not
one to rip it around. I like how mid-lengths
are kind of cruisy and mellow.
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“I don't know – I have dreams, but for the time
being I just love doing it. If something more comes
of it, that would be unreal. I recently volunteered
to help out with the Noosa Festival of Surfing.
“Other than that, I am just keen to keep surfing
and shooting and go on a few more surf trips. I am
keen to go to the Ments (Mentawai Islands).
“A few years back I went to Morocco, Portugal,
and Bali, and that was sick. I headed over there
for a few months by myself after a breakup.”
The inspiration behind Riley’s trip to Morocco was
the surf film Lost Track Atlantic featuring Torren
Martyn. Having watched and thoroughly enjoyed
Lost Track New Zealand, Riley’s love for the
movie has motivated me to make sure to watch
the one on Morocco.
“Morocco is a beautiful country. I rate it if you ever
want to do a surf trip there.
"I stayed in a surf camp there. It was heaps of fun.
I just wish I had a mid-length with me, as I only
had a shortboard.
“The waves in Torren’s film were massive, but
when I was there it was kind of like here (the
Sunshine Coast), just the water was freezing.
“Portugal was cool too. I particularly loved
Ericeira (a super cool Portuguese surf town
located on top of cliffs overlooking the Atlantic
Ocean). The water was cold there too, and
the waves pack such a punch. It takes your
breath away.”
As for Riley’s plans for the future, he just wants to
keep doing what he’s doing.
“Yeah, just surfing and some travel and my
photography. To do something more on the surf
photography side of things would be the dream
for sure.”
Pull-out poster
Two rippers from Riley
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Photo by Riley O'Dea
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50
Photo by Riley O'Dea

smorgasboarder

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smorgasboarder

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Photo by Swilly and supplied by VIZ Tradie’s Insurance

Callum Robson realised his true calling one fateful
day on a construction site, covered in sawdust and
frothing for a surf in his home town of Evans Head.
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Today, he’s recognised around the world for
his powerful surfing style and exceptional
knack for aerials, and is more than familiar
with the pro surfing circuit. It’s a far cry from
his days working as a carpentry apprentice,
but the thing about Callum is… he’s always
stayed true to his roots.
Driven by his passion for the grassroots surf,
sport, and tradie communities, he was just
as stoked chatting to us about the thrill of
the World Championship Tour as he was the
simple joys of scouting out lonely breaks with
his mates along the north coast of New South
Wales.
It’s for this reason that we wanted to share his
incredible journey, from duking it out on the
waves and nurturing upcoming surf talent to
partnering with epic brands that helped get
him to where he is today – constantly chasing
peak performance and doing what he loves.
Callum was lucky enough to find his spark at
a young age. The fire caught slowly, then all
at once.
“I used to skate, ride scooters, and play a
bunch of different sports. Rugby league and
rugby union were pretty big passions of mine,
but I’ve always been around the ocean. My
parents were heavily involved in surf clubs,
so I was constantly doing patrols or going to
different events around Australia.
“But what really flicked the switch for me was
a trip to Indo with my dad when I was maybe
13. After I came back, all I wanted to do was
surf. I kind of fell in love with the freedom and
pure enjoyment of it all. I think that’s why we
pursue a lot of things in life, just because we
have the most fun doing it.
“I went to school in Woodburn and then
eventually in Lismore, spending an hour and
45 minutes on the bus each day. A lot of the
time I couldn’t surf through the week, so I left
school in year 11 to have more freedom and
pursue a carpentry apprenticeship with my old
man. I was able to surf in the mornings, since
Dad let me rock up a bit later.”
Callum hurled himself into the World Surf
League (WSL) when he was just a teenager.
Swiftly ascending up the ranks, he broke onto
the scene as the youngest surfer on the 2022
Championship Tour (known for its long and
rather complicated road to qualification) and
finished in the top 10 in his rookie year.
Complicated professional surf jargon aside, he
was killing it. In fact, after his fifth-place finish
at the US Open, the WSL themselves wrote,
“…watch him surf and you’ll realise Robson
has the potent combination a modern surfer
needs to put a dent on an elite contest scene.
He can hit the lip like a sledgehammer and fly
beyond it like a jet – think of it as an Aussie
grunt crossed with radical progression.”
Callum said he chalked up his navigation
of the complex world of elite surfing to his
experience as a tradie. Apparently, his first
job not only reinforced his maturity and strong
work ethic, but also made him realise what he
wanted to do with his life in the first place.
“My apprenticeship was pretty short-lived, but
it was one of the best things I ever did. While
I was very lucky that my dad was my boss, I
obviously didn’t have the luxury of being able
to surf every day – there would be times when
I’d have to work all week or out of town.
“I felt like I had so much more to give,
and I found I was way more passionate
about surfing.
“It made me realise that I never wanted to do
carpentry as my main job, so it fuelled the fire
for me to be a professional surfer. That was
my drive every single day. I just wanted to
see how far I could take it. I never really knew
that I was going to be a pro – I just wanted
to pursue surfing in some capacity as much
as I could.
“I’ve recently finished renovating a place with
my old man. I haven’t had the opportunity
to go back and work with him since being
on tour, but it’s such a different experience
when I don’t have to do it for work. I really like
learning about building, and feel like it’s such
a good skillset to have.”
When asked if he would ever consider picking
up the tools again full-time, Callum told us he
doesn’t see himself going back. However, that
doesn’t mean he has left that part of his life
behind completely.
For those that don’t know – in high-level
circuits like the Championship Tour, many pro
surfers make a living through prize money and,
more importantly, sponsorships. For Callum,
this is where the support of businesses like
VIZ Tradie’s Insurance is invaluable.
Perfectly aligned with his good nature and
community spirit, Callum said he’s been able
to develop an awesome relationship with the
brand, as they’ve supported him massively
throughout his whole journey.
“I feel like they’re along for the ride, which
is definitely what you need from a pro surf
sponsorship.
Photos by Swilly and supplied by VIZ Tradie’s Insurance
56

“They really value the space that I play in, having
that tradie background. I’m from a small country
town, so working-class, blue-collar kind of work is
deeply ingrained in me. I think that resonates a lot
with their community and the Aussie tradies that
surf. I relate to them quite easily.
“I think they’re exactly the kind of people that a
surfing tradie wants to deal with. They want to work
all day, surf in the afternoon, down tools, and know
they’re protected.
“Being a professional athlete, there are ups and
downs and it’s not smooth sailing all the time, so to
have the support of a company that backs you for
being you really means the world to me and allows
me to work on what matters. I can focus on surfing
and doing my best knowing I have their support. I’m
excited to see what we do together.”
If you tour the car parks of any beach along the east
coast of Australia in the early afternoon, chances
are you’ll see a bunch of muddied-up utes – tools in
the tray and surfboards strapped on top.
Tradies have always been known to surf. There are
even figures that say nearly two thirds hit the waves
during the working week. We were introduced to
VIZ for this very reason, and felt it only appropriate
to help them give away Callum’s surfboard to one
lucky surf tradie last edition – congrats Shane!
On top of everything else, VIZ also backs Callum’s
junior camps and all the insane work he does in the
area of performance development. Speaking with
him, you can just tell that helping young people
reach their potential and come to an understanding
of what they want to do in life is something that he’s
really, really passionate about.
Callum said he began coaching well before he
started his global competitive tours, and described
it as his transition into the pro surfing world.
“It allowed me to understand myself on such
a deeper level. I realised I had a lot of value to
give in that space, because something I’m really
enthusiastic about is giving back. I also think I’ve
got quite a unique take on it, because I felt like
I probably wasn’t the most talented kid when I
was younger – I had to work a lot of things out
for myself.
“I want to be able to help someone through
their journey – not just give them the tools to
be a professional surfer, but encourage them to
understand themselves more as a human. Being
able to provide that level of support through my
junior camps and having a platform where I can
help kids from around the world has been super
good for me.
“They get to access the world’s best and hear
advice straight from the horse’s mouth, which
is just unbelievable. Putting this together for
these groms has now allowed me to build a bit of
community, which is really exciting.”
Callum lit up when he talked about his junior
performance camps… almost as much as he did
when he described the simple joys he finds in
surfing itself.
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Image supplied by VIZ Tradie’s Insurance

While the competitive scene is very much an expression and a way for
him to challenge himself, it’s clear that he finds the most happiness
doing the same things that us casual surfers enjoy – finding secret
spots, getting barrelled, and practicing our favourite craft.
Callum said when there are waves around, his energy levels are
through the roof.
“At the moment I’ve been living in the Kingscliff area, so I’ve been
surfing a lot around D-Bah (Duranbah Beach) at the southern end of
the Goldie and northern end of New South Wales. I love sneaking
around Evans with my mates on the ski. That’s probably one of my
favourite spots, but we’re in such a wave-rich zone, so I also surf in
Ballina and all kinds of places.
“The funnest thing in the world is chasing waves and surfing with
my mates, but I’m pretty motivated in the sense of working on my
high-performance surfing too. I’ve always been driven by my curiosity
about how I can be the best surfer I can be. I don’t know what that
looks like, and I don’t know the end goal, so it’s exciting.
“I’m actually in front of a camera for most of my surfs. Watching your
own footage is actually the best thing from a technical standpoint –
it’s so good for your mind-body connection.
“When I was younger and started to get filmed for the first time, it was
definitely a little intimidating. But now, I don’t really think too much of
it. I usually set my intentions so I don’t get too caught up in trying to
get clips. That way, I’m more focused on my goal for the session.”
The horror of imagining a camera pointed at you almost every time
you wanted to take a surf was hard to shake… So we were curious –
does Callum still experience a casual sesh in the same way we do?
As someone who does it for a living, and for such an insane amount of
time in his life, does he still enjoy surfing as a cruisy, relaxing activity?
Callum said going for a general leisurely surf has been difficult at times
throughout his career, so it’s nice to put the board away and have
some time off to refresh and reset.
“Surfing has obviously played a massive part in my life. I love being
able to do something where I can get outside of my own head and
connect with myself and Mother Nature. Getting in the salt water is
such a great way to cleanse your whole being and feel really, really
good about yourself.
“If I’m ever a bit overwhelmed or stressed, I just go for a swim. I think
it’s so beneficial. I feel like my family really helps with my wellbeing
too – spending time with them always makes me feel better. I also like
to go fishing, golfing, being with my mates, and basically anything else
that lets me escape from reality, which includes competing.
“When I was on the WSL tour previously, quite a lot of my focus was
on being big, strong, and powerful. Whereas now, on the Challenger
Series, I want to be more agile to bring a bit of speed into my surfing,
which is why I’ve been loving my Juliette from DHD – I’ve gone from
6’0” down to 5’11”.
“My training, diet, and body have changed too. I’ve definitely leaned
up a bit more, which reflects in my boards going down a litre from 30
to 29.
“I’ve been playing around with a smaller board space because, being
back on the Challenger, I’ve wanted to bring more progression into
my surf. I’ve been loving the round tail at the moment, but I’ve been
experimenting with the square tail with DHD as well.”
Callum’s first experience as an official member of the elite
Championship Tour was at Pipeline, Hawaii, in 2022. In classic WSL
fashion, the schedule was changed last minute, meaning the welcome
party for the rookies was set amongst some of the world’s scariest
waves.
Of course, Callum nailed it – embracing the uncomfortable spots in
the lineup and coming in second. He told us that he sees all comps
as blank canvases to get points and do his best in, but there are
locations that he does enjoy competing in more, with Hawaii being
one of them
“I obviously have a good connection with the places I’ve done well at.
I won the Challenger Series at Snapper Rocks, so surfing there for me
feels like a home break.
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“It’s only an hour and a bit up the coast from my
hometown, and a lot of my friends and family can come
to the event, so I’m really hoping I get into that comp this
year as a wildcard.
“For me, Snapper is probably one of my favourite events
just because I grew up experiencing the atmosphere
there. When the beach is packed, it’s really, really sick.
They’re world-class waves, and some of my favourites to
surf, so being able to enjoy them with no
one out there is just amazing.
“I had a good experience at Pipeline
in my first year – I got pumping and
really memorable waves, so that
one ranks high on my list. I also love
Bells Beach, Portugal, and Jeffreys
Bay – that place is beautiful. So yeah,
my preferences usually correlate
with places I’ve
done well at,
but Snapper is
probably the
cream of the
crop for me.”
Callum was excited
to share with us a project that he’s been working on
for some time now – a new brand called Project 6 that
encompasses his coaching camps, learning experiences,
and all the incredible things he’ll be doing in this space
moving forward.
Always one to stay true to his roots, the name ‘Project 6’
was inspired by the jersey that he wears as a nod to his
elite surfing journey. From the beginning, he really had to
understand it all for himself – from the nuts and bolts of
surfing to all the complex things it took to get to where
he is today on the world stage.
Callum said coaching and public speaking aren’t things
that have ever come naturally to him, but just like so
many other things in his life, he’s come to realise that it’s
something he wants to do. He was made for it.
“I’ve got so much insight and experience from dedicating
my life to understanding myself and my performance.
Speaking at events, doing workshops, and participating
in things like this is definitely a bit of a social risk – and
something that does provoke some uncomfortable
emotions – but for me, the joy of being able to help
someone far outweighs that.
“It’s something that I’m really passionate about, so I
want to continue pushing myself outside my comfort
zone and spreading my message. Hopefully people
can take some inspiration from that and apply it to
their lives. I find a lot of value in listening to others talk
through their experiences, so being able to give people
insight into mine is super special and something I want
to keep doing.
“Helping aspiring pro surfers holds a massive place in
my heart, but Project 6 is so much more than that. It’s
about creating different types of enjoyable experiences
for surfers of all ages and levels. It’s for them to come
play and experience surfing at its core – pure fun and
a challenge to push yourself mentally and improve in
different and uncomfortable environments.
“I’m super excited to launch the brand and see where
this next journey takes me.”
Photo by Swilly and supplied by VIZ Tradie’s Insurance
60

DUAL
TOFINO, BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA
62

ITY
Words & photos by Marcus Paladino
NORTH SHORE, OAHU, HAWAII
63

64

Tofino, British Columbia, and the North Shore of
Oahu may sit on opposite sides of the Pacific,
but they share a deep connection to surf,
nature, and a way of life shaped by the ocean.
At first glance, they seem worlds apart – one a
misty town nestled in a temperate rainforest, the
other a globally renowned proving ground for
the best surfers on Earth. But dig a little deeper,
and the parallels become clear.
Both places exist at the end of the road –
Highway 4 leads into Tofino with nowhere left to
go but the ocean, while Kamehameha Highway
winds along the Seven-Mile Miracle before
terminating at Ka’ena Point.
This isolation fosters a strong sense of
community and commitment. You don’t just
pass through these places – you arrive with
intention.
Surrounded by stunning natural environments,
Tofino’s towering Sitka spruces and cedars
mirror the swaying palms and ironwood trees
along Oahu’s coastline. The ocean dictates
daily life, with surf schedules revolving around
incoming swells and storm systems setting the
mood of the town.
THIS ISOLATION FOSTERS A STRONG SENSE
OF COMMUNITY AND COMMITMENT. YOU
DON’T JUST PASS THROUGH THESE PLACES
– YOU ARRIVE WITH INTENTION.
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Wildlife is abundant in both places – bears and
wolves roam Tofino’s backroads, while sea turtles
and monk seals cruise the reefs of the North Shore.
But the biggest commonality between Tofino and
the North Shore is their surf culture. In both towns,
people live for the winter swells.
When the Pacific roars to life, the entire community
tunes in, whether paddling out or watching from the
shore. Summer brings a shift – warmer water, smaller
waves, and more time spent on other ocean activities
like diving, fishing, and paddling.
Yet, the level of surfing in each town is vastly
different. The North Shore is the ultimate proving
ground, where the best surfers in the world test
themselves at Pipeline, Backdoor, and Sunset.
Even on a ‘small’ day, Rocky Point might still
be hosting a full-on air show. The talent level is
staggeringly high, with cameras lining the beach,
filmers tracking every wave, and sponsors scouting
the next rising star.
THE NORTH SHORE IS THE ULTIMATE PROVING GROUND,
WHERE THE BEST SURFERS IN THE WORLD TEST
THEMSELVES AT PIPELINE, BACKDOOR, AND SUNSET.
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HERE, SURFING IS MORE ABOUT THE EXPERIENCE THAN THE SPECTACLE.
Tofino, by contrast, is quieter. While the local talent
pool is growing, it’s not a place where the world’s
best gather to push the boundaries of the sport.
A few lensmen might be out on the best days of
the year, but it’s a far cry from the media frenzy of
the North Shore. Here, surfing is more about the
experience than the spectacle.
There’s also a stark contrast in accessibility – you can
park your car in the North Shore’s beachfront lots and
paddle straight into world-class waves. In Canada,
reaching the best waves often requires hours of
driving, hiking, or even a boat ride.
Both places thrive on tourism. Their populations
swell in peak season as visitors flock to the waves,
beaches, and laid-back island lifestyles. But while
the North Shore is connected to the bustling
city of Honolulu, Tofino remains more remote –
accessible only by ferry and a winding mountain
highway, three hours from the nearest city and
six hours from Vancouver’s major airport.
In both towns, bikes are a staple mode of
transport. The North Shore’s bike path
weaves along the coast, linking surf breaks
and beach parks, just like Tofino’s multiuse
path stretching from town to Cox Bay
and beyond. With limited parking and a
strong outdoor culture, pedalling from
spot to spot just makes sense.

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NORTH SHORE, OAHU, HAWAII
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Despite their differences, both places
are built around a love for the ocean.
Whether it’s heavy slabs and perfect
barrels or playful beach breaks and
stormy points, the waves shape the
rhythm of life.
While Tofino and the North Shore may
be worlds apart in surf progression, they
are united by a deep respect for the
sea, the seasons, and the communities
they foster.
TOFINO, BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA
71

HANDMADE SURFBAORDS
HUGE CHOICE.
UNBEATABLE PRICES.
BEST ADVICE.
office@goodtime.com.au 07 3391 8588
goodtimesurfnskate
29 Ipswich Rd, Woolloongabba QLD
(parking at rear on Gibbon Street)
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goodtime.com.au
Mon, Wed & Fri: 9am-5pm
Sat & Sun: 10am-3pm

Photos by Cait Miers | @caitmiersphotography & Sofia Sorokina | @aartwitness
MORE THAN JUST
The stories that kept me surfing for 30 days straight
WAVES
Words by Lisette Drew
We sit out in the ocean together, waiting for the next
set to come through. We recognise each other – not
always by name, but by the way someone paddles,
the way they take off, or the stoke in their smile after
a great ride. We nod in acknowledgement, sometimes
exchange a few words, but often, we remain strangers
connected only by the sea.
And yet, in those quiet moments between sets,
something unspoken links us.
It’s easy to romanticise surfing – the connection with
nature, adventure, the carefree lifestyle – but it’s also a
privilege. Many of the places we visit for surf trips are
home to people facing hardships we can’t imagine.
Last September, I signed up for SurfAid’s Make A
Wave challenge, committing to surfing for 30 days
straight to raise money for remote surf communities.
I wanted to give back to the communities I have had
the privilege to visit – help them in a small way to have
the resources to protect their coastlines, livelihoods,
and traditions. What I didn’t expect was how much
this challenge would give back to me.
Living on the Gold Coast, daily surfs are easy because
the surf is right on my doorstep. But this wasn’t just
about catching waves – it was about feeling part of
something bigger. With surfers participating in Make A
Wave worldwide, I wanted to amplify surfers’ stories
and celebrate our vibrant global community.
So, I set another goal: writing 30 surf stories in 30
days. Every surfer has a story – some chase the
perfect barrel, others seek solace in the ocean. I
wanted to capture that through my In the Lineup
series.
Early mornings, sore muscles, and relentless
northerlies tested my will, but the stories I collected
kept me going. I connected with surfers at my home
break and through social media, finding inspiration in
their experiences.
Among the most compelling voices were female
surfers from diverse backgrounds, carving space in a
male-dominated sport. Their presence is shifting the
dynamic, and the surf industry is finally taking notice.
In honour of International Women’s Day in March, here
are four of my favourite stories of remarkable women
making waves in the surf world.
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MORE THAN JUST WAVES
The stories that kept me surfing for 30 days straight
Photo by Sarah Lee | @hisarahlee
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I met Janey on a surf charter in
Indonesia, where her special bond
with animals was evident at every
stop. It’s fitting that the surf story
she shared with me involved a
four-legged friend.
JANEY
From surfing to street dogs
Surfing at Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka, is a grounding force for veterinary surgeon
and charity CEO, Janey. She first caught the surf bug in 2012 in Lombok,
then braved the cold waters of North East England before finding solace
in the waves. The ocean became her sanctuary – a place where her mind
was completely still.
A life-changing moment came in 2014 when, on a surf trip to Sri Lanka,
Janey encountered a street dog with an eye injury. Unable to find help, she
left heartbroken but determined. Soon after, she returned to Sri Lanka to
live and launched veterinary charity WECare, with her mission to ensure no
street dog goes without proper veterinary care.
I met Janey on a surf charter in Indonesia, where her special bond with
animals was evident at every stop. It’s fitting that the surf story she shared
with me involved a four-legged friend.
“I was the last person in the water at a break on the East Coast, and just
needed one wave to get in before dark. As I was waiting for the set and the
moon was beginning to show its face, an elephant came down onto the
rocks next to the point and just stood and watched me.
“I was around 20 metres away from him. I ended up missing the set as I
was slightly distracted staring at this majestic creature with the moonlight
glowing on his skin. It was the most incredible thing I’ve ever seen, and I’ll
never forget the feeling of just me and him in that moment, basking in all of
Mother Nature’s glory.”
75

MORE THAN JUST WAVES
The stories that kept me surfing for 30 days straight
SUSIE
Surfing through the decades
Susie has been surfing since 1959, when the film
Gidget sparked a lifelong passion. Her local break
is Faria Beach, California, where she paddles out
whenever the conditions feel just right.
To her, surfing isn’t just a hobby – it’s a fountain of
youth. The moment she catches a wave, she feels
equal to everyone else in the water, with all thoughts
and worries swept away by the sea.
Each morning, she checks the surf, stretches,
exercises, hikes, or paddles at Mother’s Beach if the
surf’s no good. Retirement, for her, simply means
more surf time.
One unforgettable session came after a long hiatus.
With no one else in the water, perfect waves rolled
through under a sunny, windless sky. Susie was on
fire – catching every wave and riding pure stoke.
The session was so epic that she made a video,
which unexpectedly went viral on social media. This
is where I connected with Susie. Her joy was so
contagious, and proof that stoke knows no age limit.
“I’m still amazed anyone would want to see some
crazy looking old lady freaking out about a bitchin’
surf sesh with things hanging out of my nose and
my surf hairdo! I guess it was just my stoke that
shined through.”
76

Photos by Susie Jensen | @aquasooz
Each morning, she checks
the surf, stretches,
exercises, hikes, or paddles
at Mother’s Beach if the
surf’s no good. Retirement,
for her, simply means more
surf time.
77

MORE THAN JUST WAVES
The stories that kept me surfing for 30 days straight
WANO
Surfing beyond limits
Wano’s surf journey is one of resilience and
connection. Originally from the mountains of Taiwan,
surfing was never part of her early life. She didn’t
even know how to swim when she first paddled out –
but that didn’t stop her.
Moving to the Gold Coast, she discovered a deep
love for the ocean. Learning to surf before she could
swim, she relied on sheer determination, watching
others and taking advice from locals.
Fellow surfers warned her that they wouldn’t come
and save her if she couldn’t swim in on a big day,
so a year into her surfing journey she took lessons
in pools, creeks, and eventually the ocean. This
decision not only made her safer but also improved
her surfing.
Her local break is Currumbin Alley, where we met.
Most mornings, she surfs before starting her day
as a mobile hairdresser. The ocean is her refuge,
offering healing and comfort. And you can see
her love and respect for the ocean every time she
catches a wave – with calm and grace.
Right now, her biggest wish is to return to Taiwan
with her daughter and reunite with family she hasn’t
seen in a decade. Her philosophy perfectly reflects
her approach to surfing:
“Be nice and kind to people around you, because
you never know what someone is going through.”
Photo by Luke Dubrovskiy | @thesaltylineup
78

“Be nice and kind to people
around you, because you
never know what someone
is going through.”
Photo by Kane Mcmillan | @kanemcmillanphoto
79

MORE THAN JUST WAVES
The stories that kept me surfing for 30 days straight
ELLE
The waves of a lifetime
For Elle, surfing isn’t just a sport – it’s the
foundation of her life. Inspired by her dad and
brothers, she first paddled out at five years old,
and the ocean became her world.
From pro surfer to surf content creator, Elle
shares her own stories from the surf world,
coaching others and chasing the thrill of the
ocean. I met her on a surf charter trip, doing
what she loved.
Recently, Elle told me about a wild session in the
Mentawais, scoring the best waves the region
had seen in three years, but with that came its
consequences.
“The boat we took out to the break can’t be out
past dark, and it was already late in the day,
but I was determined to catch one last wave. A
big set rolled in, and in the gap between bigger
waves, I spotted a smaller one and decided to
go for it.
“The water was bumpy, and it didn’t turn out to
be a great wave. As I kicked my board out and
did a few somersaults, I had an unusual instinct
to cover my head, which I wouldn’t normally do.
Lucky, I did.”
She hit the reef, broke a finger, and cut her head.
Thanks to quick-thinking friends and a medic,
she had her head stapled on a boat and was
back in the water four days later. A humbling
reminder of the ocean’s power.
Inspired by her dad
and brothers, she first
paddled out at five
years old, and the ocean
became her world.
80

Photos by Cait Miers | @caitmiersphotography
Surfing connects us beyond language, borders,
and backgrounds. Every paddle out links us to
a global community, bound by the rhythm of the
sea. This 30-day journey showed me that the
lineup is more than a place to catch waves – it’s a
space of connection.
These days, I catch more stories than waves. I
find myself talking to surfers, learning why they
keep coming back to the ocean. And for that, I’m
forever stoked.
Here’s to more than just sharing waves – here’s
to sharing stories, to building a community that
extends beyond the break, and to truly seeing
the people we paddle out with. Because when
we do, the lineup becomes something greater.
It becomes a place of belonging, a shared stoke
that unites us all.
81

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SURFBOARD SHAPERS
Surfboard design has always been an obsession for us. It is at the very heart and
soul of what this magazine is about. We love to immerse ourselves in discussion
about the approach of certain said surfboard designs, the principles behind them,
and what that particular shaper is trying to achieve.
In this special Smorgasboarder editorial series, we provide an insight into the
minds of some of Australia and New Zealand’s most influential surfboard artisans,
along with a few newcomers to the scene. In each edition we will feature a number
of surfboard shapers, shining a spotlight on the boards they craft, or the aspects
of their designs, that best encapsulate the focus of their endeavours.
83

Hang 10
NMC SURFBOARDS
BARWON HEADS, VICTORIA
NICK
MCATEER
I first started shaping 38 years ago in my parents’ garage. I was
always fascinated with surfboards. It didn’t matter what style,
shape, colour, or brand. They were all exciting to me.
When I was about 16 or 17, I bought a blank with a couple of
mates. We hacked out our first surfboard, and that’s where the bug
started. I’d always enjoyed painting and fixing up old boards and
really wanted to be a surfboard maker. I bought a magazine from a
shop and followed the instructions step by step. When I look back,
it was very average, but I loved it because I had made it.
The thing about surfboards is it doesn’t matter how good you are
at it – there’s always room to improve. It is the passion and love for
the craft that really keeps me interested.
I shape every style of board from five foot to twelve foot, and being
a custom shaper, I’m lucky to have the opportunity to craft a diverse
range of surfboards. I’m not bound by any certain guidelines.
After 38 years and thousands of surfboards later, I still love it as
much as I ever did because we always continue to learn. They say
you’re only as good as your last board, and I think that’ll always be
the case, because as soon as you think you have it mastered, you
deny yourself the opportunity to change and keep learning. Over
those years I’ve seen some radical changes, some good and some
bad, but without those changes, we cannot progress to become
better craftsmen.
The best feeling is when a customer calls you to let you know they
have just had the best surf of their life. You have made something
by hand that has given someone else the greatest joy.
I will continue to shape until I die, that’s how much I love it, it’s in
my heart and in my veins.
nmc_surfboards
NMC Surfboards
84

Hang 10
Photo by Steve Arklay / Aframe Photos
85

Feature
Hang 10
86

Hang 10
SHEELY SURFBOARDS
NEWCASTLE, NEW SOUTH WALES
PETER
SHEELY
So how do I describe the one board I’m focused on of late? Truth
be told, I can’t. I can tell you the one thing I don’t make, and that’s
stand-up paddleboards, because they’re entirely made with epoxy.
Other than that, I shape everything. I am forever shaping
shortboards and fish right through to kneeboards, prone boards,
longboards, and even 12-foot gliders. I make a few super light
longboards – up to 10 foot in length and weighing less than seven
kilos (pictured left). They are in high demand.
They’re made with a Styrofoam blank and, as I don’t have a vacuum
bag setup, I glass them all entirely by hand using two layers of
six-ounce Volan cloth and epoxy resin. I also make a lot of oldschool
traditional logs. This latest one is something special (photo
on page 96).
I shaped this board after a recent visit to Bennett’s (Longboards
in Mona Vale). They have so many old mals out the back, many of
which date pre ‘66, with 60/40 rails and half-rolled bottoms and
full-rolled bottoms.
I spent ages out back floating around there, taking it all in. I didn't
have a tape measure or anything with me, but I just photographed
so many of the boards in my mind.
When I got back home, I had an idea for what I wanted to shape
using a special blank from Midget’s factory (Surfblanks Australia).
As with many of Midget’s blanks, it is near indestructible, but this
one was particularly special. It was one of his old formulas.
So, I decided to glass it heavy – super old school. As I said earlier,
I have been shaping a heap of these super lightweight longboards,
but this one is the complete opposite. It weighs a tonne.
It features two layers of Volan eight-ounce cloth, a cedar stringer,
and a tail block. A guy from Scott’s Head recently bought it, and he
reckons it’s the best thing ever. He said he can take off on a sixinch
wave, and it just keeps going and going and going.
It’s not a performance board by any stretch, just one of those oldschool
logs you've got to step right back to the tail to turn it. Most
times he just takes off on an angle, and in three foot it absolutely
powers.
It’s the momentum of the thing. It was a special board to make, and
I’m glad he enjoys it.
0417 264 739
87

Tech Talk
WORDS BY DAVE SWAN
WE’VE TALKED ABOUT TAILS AND RAILS, SO
LET’S NOW TURN OUR ATTENTION TO WHAT’S
RIGHT IN FRONT OF OUR EYES – THE NOSE.
When it comes to surfboard noses, they range from narrow, spear-like shapes right through to full,
rounded ones perfect for hanging ten toes over the edge. There are even cutoff ones for something
entirely different. But does the nose profile of your surfboard actually affect how it performs, given it’s
out of the water for most of the time, in most instances? Let’s get to the pointy end of this discussion
and delve into the governing principles behind each nose profile first.
SIDE PROFILE OF A NOSE
CUTOFF
These surfboards are said to ‘surf longer than they
actually are’, and I couldn’t agree more. What the hell
do I mean?
Your rail profile is essentially the outline of your
surfboard. Each surfboard’s rail tapers towards the
nose and tail to varying degrees. When you cut off
the nose, you have the rail outline of a much longer
surfboard. This places a great deal of volume under
your chest, which in turn makes the surfboard easier
to paddle.
The shorter length however makes it easier to
manoeuvre. Furthermore, because of the width of
the nose, it forces you to surf the board further back
towards the tail because of the greater swing mass,
making the surfboard seem looser and easier to turn.
Surfboards with a cutoff nose are truly unique, and
I for one am a huge fan. They surf like a shortboard
given their ‘cut down’ shape but also allow you to
surf it like a longboard, even run up the nose on some
designs. The downside of this nose profile is that, if
you do happen to nosedive, it is like digging a shovel
into the wave face – you really nosedive. There are
always pros and cons.
POINTED
This nose profile is generally
utilised in performance
shortboards and big wave guns.
Less volume in the nose means
there is less to deal with in waves of
consequence. Surfboards with a narrow
nose are easier to duck dive and easier to
manoeuvre on a wave face.
The narrowness of the nose is often paired with
a fair amount of rocker, whereby the tip of the
surfboard is basically curled skywards. This is to
prevent nosediving.
All in all, this type of nose profile is designed
to assist the surfer to point and shoot, and
easily whip the surfboard around. The
downside is, with less volume in the
nose, the surfboard is less buoyant and
harder to paddle, including onto the
wave. Plus, if the waves lack punch,
you will lack momentum because of
the limited buoyancy and may stall
and bog on the wave face.
ROUNDED
This nose profile features a lot of
volume, making the surfboard easy
to paddle while delivering lots of
stability when surfing. This is why
you see them so heavily featured in
longboard and beginner boards.
The volume and stability make standing
on the nose possible, and when coupled
with nose concave (a big scoop out of
the bottom of the nose), you have even
greater hold when standing on the nose,
which is beneficial when performing tricks
such as hanging ten toes over the edge.
The downside is, with so much volume,
surfboards with rounded noses are harder
to turn, so the surfer will often have to shuffle
right back to the tail to literally swing the
board around. This is referred to as ‘swing
mass’, and it is greatest in surfboards with
wide, rounded noses.
ROUNDED
POINT
This nose profile basically
combines the best of both designs.
Because there is still some volume
towards the nose, the surfboard
is easier to paddle and get onto
waves, but there’s not as much
nose to contend with when up and
surfing the wave face.
Simply put, it is easier to manoeuvre.
This is why this type of nose profile
is featured so heavily in retrostyle
shapes such as fishes and
eggs. You can’t hang ten like
you would on a longboard, nor
will you necessarily be able to
aggressively whip them around
like a shortboard, but you still
can perform magic wide arc
carving turns.
88

Tech Talk
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Quiver
Great
Dane
The canine variety is known
as the ‘Apollo of Dogs’, bred by
German nobility to protect country
estates and hunt wild boars. The
kind featured herewith has no
royal bloodline to speak of, just
a commoner from Clown Town
(Caloundra) who has a penchant for
surfing, snowboarding, and lycra.
Before we get into the nitty gritty of this story,
I must confess… the reference to Caloundra as
‘Clown Town’ was merely for dramatic effect.
I love Caloundra. It is my hometown too. The
barbs pointed at the subject of this interview,
Dane Jones, however, are most certainly
meant, and no retraction will be forthcoming.
It’s funny when you think you know someone
and then you realise, you don’t really. Let’s
just say this man, and he is a man’s man, at
least so I thought, is one hell of a surfer and
snowboarder, or so he tells me. Unfortunately,
as I later found out, he is also a cyclist.
Those who know me know of my dislike (that’s
a very restrained way of putting it) for those
who don tight-fitting, body-length lycra and tap
shoes, not to mention shave their legs.
Thankfully, Dane is of the mountain biking
variety and not the road-hogging kind.
Disturbingly though, he does admit to wearing
bib shorts – essentially bike shorts where the
straps extend over your shoulder, like an extra
generous mankini, to ‘pad his plums’ when
mountain biking.
Anyhow, everyone has their darker side, and
we will move on from Dane’s. As I said, the
man can most definitely surf. Featured is an
exposé of his favoured craft along with some
snowboards and even a few of those twowheel
things. Over to Dane to take us through
his quiver.
Alaia
Shaped by me for fun!
This is a display piece,
currently hanging up at home
so I wouldn't surf it. I have
surfed an Alaia before –
didn’t love it! Around 2014, I
reached out to a local artist
to do a custom design on the
board.
Maddison Rose Hunter
@velvetpaint on Instagram
Mum's Longboard
1960s Triple Stringer D-Fin.
Shaper unknown. Re-glassed & preserved
by Joel Beck.
This was mum’s only surfboard and isn’t it
something. She wasn’t a mad surfer, but took this
beauty out when she could. Later on, this was
towed behind the ski boat out at Somerset Dam
when I was younger. So many good weekends
out there. Dad tried to surf it 20-odd years ago
and nearly killed himself – nothing like nearly
being taken out by this huge board to the face. I
had it restored by Joel Beck, and it's now hanging
in the house. It will stay with me forever.
90

Quiver
Custom
5’6” x 20” x 2 3/4”
Shaped by Dane Jones,
assisted by Joel Beck.
Joel offered to guide me through
shaping a board. I shaped the
board and applied the resin
tint (glassing process) with his
assistance – how good. And
surprisingly, it doesn’t ride too
bad. Pretty happy with it.
Geo Blank
5’9” x 19 1/4” x 2 3/8”
Shaped by Joel Beck.
Secondhand board – thanks
Glen, haha. This was my
go-to board for months!
Springy but not chattery.
I loved surfing it.
Mini Simmons
Diverse Modern
Vintage Collection
5’ x 22” x 2 5/8” (36.7L)
Shaped by Dave ‘Feral
Dave’ Veral.
This is one of the most
fun boards I’ve ever
had! Had to surf it so
differently to my usual
style, but real good on
small waves.
Cosmic Crafts
Passion Pop Retro Fish
5’5” x 20” x 2 2/8”
Shaped by Travis Bristow.
I got this board because it
looked cool. I haven't gotten
around to it yet, but it would
probably surf good. The flex tail
is a cool element.
Custom
5’5” x 19 1/4” x 2 1/8”
Shaped by Joel Beck.
This was my first Beck
surfboard – a copy of an Al
Merrick ‘Neck Beard’. This
one surfed real good. Super
quick. She hammered.
Hayden
5’6” x 20” x 2 1/2”
Hayden Surfcraft
(local Sunshine Coast
shaper, mainly in
the SLSC industry)
didn’t produce many
boards, so I had to
get my hands on
one. Never surfed it,
but look how rad it
is. So sick.
Custom
5’9” Hyrdo Hull
Twin Fin
Shaped by Dick
Van Straalen.
Didn’t love it, didn’t
gel with it. I kept it
because it looks cool
and was custom made
for me by Straleen. I
should retry and see if
I like it more now.
91

Quiver
Campbell Designed
Shaped by Stuart Campbell
The Toe
5’11” x 19 1/2” x 2 7/16”
(31L)
Binary Twin
5’10” x 19 3/4” x 2 1/2”
(34.5L)
The Toe
6’1” x 20” x 2 9/16”
(34.5L)
Chunky-Toe
5’9” x 19 7/8” x 2 7/16”
(31.3L)
Sacrifishial
5’6” x 21 1/16” x 2 7/16”
(34.5L)
This was my go-to board for
all good waves! Took it to DI
for a surf day, tried to slide
into a little cave, got blown
apart. Came up with two
boards. Gutted.
A f*cking fun board.
Modern performance twin
fin, instead of a thruster!
Stueys' take on if the
thruster never existed!
Replacement for the
snapped board, only
bigger because I got
heavier, HAHA.
This was my first Campbell
board, I bloody love it. Surf
it in most conditions and
still my favourite board to
this day!
This was my go-to junk
wave board – all the time
on the Sunny Coast!
Latest addition to the fleet.
92

Quiver
DT Swiss wheels
Formula Coil fork
Sram GX
drive train
Shimano
SLX brakes
Kona Honzo ESD
Suitable for all trails, mainly ride this when
its wet due to less maintenance. Hardcore
hard tail, she’s rowdy! Probably my
favourite bike.
Envy Carbon wheels
Bike Bag Dude
(Brisbane)
frame bags
Marzoochi fork
Marin Pine Mountain 2
Set up for bike packing, baby! Got
it purely for bike camping trips,
load it up on the troopy and
head down towards NSW/
VIC for some amazing trails. I
plan on doing some good trips
this upcoming
winter.
Shimano
drive train
Shimano
Deore brakes
Handmade
steel frame
from USA
TREK Single Track
Built this one up as a retro cruiser, single
speed. Best for food and beer runs along
the coast.
Bontrager wheels
Shimano Deore brakes
Marzoochi forks
Sram drive train
Specialized Chisel
My training bike. Use it for gravel rides,
long distance fitness, and to stay fit when
I don’t want to ride trails. Super fast
cross country bike.
Santa Cruz carbon wheels
FOX Suspension
Shimano XT brakes
Sram AXS drive train
Specialized Stump Jumper Evo
This is my trail/enduro bike – best for
slapping every mountain bike trail in SEQ.
Sram drive train
Shimano XT brakes
We Are One wheels
Rock Shox suspension
TREK Top Fuel 9.8
This is a short travel trail bike, I use it
everywhere but it makes trails feel sketchier,
but climbs much better! Wanted a more rowdy,
full suspension bike. Makes me ride better!
Jones Stratos
All mountain snow
board (161W)
Only got this board recently
for my February Japan trip
this year. Goes good, made
me snowboard so much
better this year. Had some
really memorable days on
the snow with this one.
Super stoked with it.
Yes Standard
All mountain snow
board (159)
Had this one for 6ish
years, had two Japan
trips on this one. Good
board, super fun once
I figured out my feet
positions. Again, some
really memorable days
on the snow here!
93

Leighton Clark has been building
boards in beautiful SA since back
when overalls were cool.
EST ’82
Units 7 & 8, 9 Chapman Road,
Hackham, SA
E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au
M: 0422 443 789
94

CUSTOM HANDSHAPED
SURFBOARDS SINCE 1987
BARWON HEADS, AUSTRALIA
HIGH PERFORMANCE SHORTBOARDS,
LONGBOARDS, GUNS AND HYBRIDS.
0438 800 539
NMCSURF@BIGPOND.COM
BARWON HEADS, VICTORIA
@ nmc_surfboards

Blue & yellow
traditional long board
Custom Twin
5’10” x 20 3/4” x 2 5/8”
Shaped and Designed
by Jack. Full tint.
To order a custom feel free to give us a message
or call and talk directly to Jack or myself (Aaron).
10’ x 23” x 3” thick
11.5 kg, all glassed
in volan
feel the momentum.
This thing glides
forever!
harvestsurfboards Harvest Surfboards
Aaron: 0405 681 369 Jack: 0437 222 790
harvestsurfboards.com aaron@harvestsurfboards.com
Sheely custom made
surfboards
M: 0417 264 739
WORLD-CLASS
BLANKS
Our consistency is the best in the world. Our blanks come in a
multitude of different lengths, rockers and weights. We also have
an extensive variety of timber stringers of varying widths. And we
have all the shaping tools you need to make a board from scratch!
FAMILY OWNED AND RUN
FOR THE PAST 59 YEARS.
CONTACT US
phone: 07 5534 3777
burfordblanksaustralia.com.au
96

only a
gut slider
knows this feeling
the craze is real.
NOW SENDING OUT BOARDS AROUND THE WORLD FROM NEW YORK TO
CALIFORNIA (EVEN UTAH!?), MALDIVES TO TIMOR, SRI LANKA, SUMATRA,
BALI, FIJI, Abu DhabI, DubaI, NEW ZEALAND AND ALL OVER AUSTRALIA.
the orIgINAL GUT SLIDER and stIll the best
CUSTOM ORDERS AVAILABLE
OCEANFOIL SURFBOARDS
Urunga, NSW | M: 0434 211 779
Shaped under license by
Oke Surfboards.
As the boards remain in high demand,
Oceanfoil is enlisting the help of the expert
shapers at Oke Surfboards in Victoria
M: 03 9587 3553 | E: roryoke@hotmail.com

Unsurprisingly, through years
recreational telepathic journeying,
Barry lives in a place between
earth and some intergalactic realm.
He claims enlightenment, yet many
would argue he has other
undiagnosed concerns.
This is the
communication
portal.If you sit
quietly in the
lotus position,
you will hear the
screaming echoes
of ten thousand
cigarette butts.
Luckily this chakra is clear
and fresh. Time spent in the
tube is like pouring cosmic
Visine into this suspiciously
pink & squinting eyeball...
Open wide, there is a
universe within us all.
A life of gratitude, love and light
comes from an open heart chakra.
Unfortunately this dark and dank place
is as cold and heavy as a river stone.
Windows shut, curtains drawn..
lights are on, nobody home.
This chakra controls the
digestive system and reveals
a true indication of your lowly,
dirt-floor self esteem...
Been getting a sore tummy
from drinking away all of them
scary feelings big fella?
This is the center for
emotion & eroticism.
It needs srubbing like
a Bangkok bathhouse.
Boiling hot water and
harsh hospital bleach.
Scour vigorously and
with great endeavor,
but understand that a
greasy stain will
always remain...
Unclench, and allow the sacred
force to penetrate this uncultured
eppicentre of untethered sensitivity

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box
3 x merch items
sticker pack
select knobs merch
$100
box
4 x merch items
sticker pack
more knobs merch
$200
4 x merch items
box
aloha barry - sticker pack
all the knobs
Disclaimer: we will try our best to supply
the size you requested but due to stock
levels this may not be possible!
smorgasboarder.com.au

WIN this board
Tradie’s
Insurance
made easy
Callum Robson,
VIZ ambassador
Photo: Swilly
At VIZ, we make it simple to take out Public &
Products Liability and Tools of Trade so you can
spend more time relaxing in the water (or the air).
Leave behind the stress of running your business and knock off
with peace of mind this weekend. With VIZ Insurance, getting
covered is quick, easy, and built for Aussie tradies like you.
Call us: 1300 216 226
Email us: hello@vizinsurance.com.au
vizinsurance.com.au
Reviews 41 • Excellent
VERIFIED COMPANY
4.5
Public & Products Liability, Tools of Trade and Tax Audit Cover
Get a quote today!
*Trustpilot reviews as at 2 April 2025. For more information on reviews please visit https://au.trustpilot.com/review/vizinsurance.com.au.
VIZ Insurance PTY LTD (VIZ) ABN 49 615 973 487, AFSL 494857, acts as an agent under binding authority for RAC Insurance Pty Limited ABN 59 094 685 882, AFSL 231222 (RAC), the product issuer.
VIZ receives a commission from RAC for policies issued which is a percentage of your premium. Any advice provided is general advice only and you should consider if it suits your needs. Please read the
relevant Policy Wording to ensure the product is right for you. All product information contained within this advertisement is subject to policy terms and conditions (including exclusion and limitations).