SALON MAGAZINE: NOVEMBER + DECEMBER 2015

20+

SECRECTS

TO HOLIDAY

STYLING

SUCCESS

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 Highway 89, Alliston, Ont., Canada L9R 1V1

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27TH ANNUAL

CONTESSA AWARDS

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NOVEMBER+DECEMBER 15 $5

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Enter the American Crew All-Star Challenge,

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open for entries september 15, 2015 – february 17, 2016

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For inquiries please call 1.800.387.7980 © 2015 aMerican creW. all riGHTs reserVeD. FolloW us on TWiTTer @aMericancreW like us on Facebook aT Facebook.coM/aMericancreWcanaDa

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All Star Challenge

Canada Winner 2015

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the Payoff

WINNER: Trip to revlon

Professional Brands World Show

(Spring 2016), $1000 cash prize,

$500 product prize, full page

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TWO RUNNERS UP: $500 cash

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NOVEMBER+DECEMBER.15

SALONMAGAZINE.CA

FEATURES

46 GET INSTA-GLAM

Volume and ultra-glam updos:

Your ultimate holiday styling guide

48 FACE TIME

Best tips to take your client’s

holiday makeup from day to night

50 KEEP YOUR

BUSINESS BOOMING

Upselling, service add-ons and

out-of-the-box salon offerings

52 COVER SHOOT

CONFIDENTIAL

Behind the scenes of our cover

shoot with Moroccanoil educator and

spokesperson, Kevin Hughes

54 COLLECTIONS

Kevin Hughes; Revlon Professional Fall in

Love; Claudia Cataldo; Rossa Jurenas &

Damien Carney; Jarahs Hair; Michael Shire;

Brian Gallagher; Richard Ashforth; Rob

Gaspar; Mahogany Hair; F.A.M.E. Team;

Toni&Guy

84 CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST

OF THE YEAR AWARDS

The 27th annual Contessa Awards finalists

are here!

ON OUR COVER:

Hair: Kevin Hughes, Moroccanoil

educator and spokesperson

Makeup: Wendy Rorong

Styling: Talia Brown

Photo: Richard Dubois

Photographed in Toronto exclusively

for Salon Magazine

76

FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH

HAIRDRESSING

F.A.M.E. TEAM 2014: ELLENORA DEAN,

DAFYDD RHYS THOMAS, LEIGH ANNE

REGAN, SIMON TUCKWELL

14 salon november+december.15 salonmagazine.ca

OPI IS GUARANTEED ONLY WHEN PURCHASED THROUGH AUTHORIZED PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY OUTLETS AND PRESTIGE STORES. ©2015 OPI PRODUCTS INC. • CALL 800.341.9999 OR VISIT OPI.COM

MODEL IS WEARING I’M IN THE MOON FOR LOVE

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INFRARED-Y TO GLOW • LET YOUR LOVE SHINE • CE-LESS-TIAL IS MORE • PRESS * FOR SILVER • TWO WRONGS DON’T MAKE A METEORITE • NO MORE MR. NIGHT SKY

68

BRIAN GALLAGHER,

GALLAGHER

& HORNER,

GLASGLOW, U.K.

90

NARCISSE &

ECHO SALON,

MONTREAL

62

64

KRISTY HODGSON,

JARAHS HAIR,

BERRI, SOUTH

AUSTRALIA

ROSSA JURENAS AND

DAMIEN CARNEY

USING SCHWARZKOPF

PROFESSIONAL

REGULARS

18 EDITOR’S LETTER

20 PUBLISHER’S NOTE

22 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

This month at SalonMagazine.ca

25 HAIRLINES

Holiday styling essentials, your

festive season makeup tool kit and

all of the hottest new products

84 CONTESSA GALLERY

Taz Hair Co., Contessa 26

Finalist, Canadian Salon Team

88 PROFILE

Getting Schooled: Sharon Blain

90 INTERIORS

Post-Industrial Mood: Narcisse &

Echo, Montreal

92 BUSINESS

Best practices for holiday

scheduling into the January slump

93 EVENTS

97 SCOOP

98 BY THE NUMBERS

40

GLOW-GETTER:

HOW TO PACKAGE

YOUR TANNING

SERVICES

60

CLAUDIA

CATALDO,

CATALDO’S

SALON,

CANBERRA,

AUSTRALIA


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Join the PRO|FIBER revolution on

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To get PRO|FIBER in your salon,

please contact your business consultant

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5 REASONS

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EDITOR’S

LETTER

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Time, energy and creative concepts, along with your heart,

soul, sweat and maybe even a few tears: There’s a lot that

goes into putting together a photo collection.Until I began

working here, I never consciously realized the scope of creative

artistry that’s a major part of the beauty industry.

When you're following your passion, especially as an artist, there's

always a part of you taht goes into your work, which can sometimes

make it doubly difficult to showcase your work. Add in the stress—and

thrill—of having your work judged for a Contessa Award and it’s not

surprising that some might feel a little overwhelmed.

At this time of year, Salon Magazine’s office is a hub of excitement,

packed with some of the best artistry in the Canadian professional

beauty industry. As editors, we have the fun of selecting collections

that fill each issue, and it’s even more exciting to see the incredible

body of work from hairstylists from across the country. What’s

more exciting? Calling Contessa finalists. Nothing beats hearing the

cheers—and sometimes tears—of pure joy that come across the line

when we share the news. Hearing a mix of overwhelming emotions is

one of the best parts of this job, hands down.

We can’t wait to celebrate with you at this year’s Contessa

Awards gala on November 8 at the Westin Harbour Castle in

Toronto. In the meantime, if you haven’t already, turn to page 84 for

a complete list of our finalists, then go to SalonMagazine.ca and

vote for the Fan Favourite Award. It’s going to be an incredible night

you won’t want to miss, and I can’t wait to see you there!

Anna Lee Boschetto

Editor-in-Chief

Find me on Facebook at SalonMag, on Twitter and Instagram

@SalonMagazine or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca.

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO


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PUBLISHER’S

NOTE

’TIS THE SEASON

FOR giving

We work in a generous industry, and nothing reminds us

of the spirit of giving like the submissions for The John

Steinberg Award for Community Service. But selecting a

winner is like picking your favourite child: Every submission deserves

this award for the best in charitable giving.

Quite often, salons and barbershops are considered the pulse of

the community. Salon clientele help create powerful relationships

that becomes a tightly woven and valuable tool when it comes to

giving back to their community. People like to give—particularly to

something or someone they are connected to, including their salon.

Philanthropy and creativity go hand in hand in the salon industry.

From hosting fashion shows and carnival street parties to sponsoring

cut-a-thons and the local junior hockey league, the level of creativity

that takes place with fundraisers is brilliant, and the benefits of

fundraising are many.

But it’s not just about raising dollars. Charitable giving fosters

a salon environment that’s high on team spirit while inspiring the

next generation of beauty pros. Interestingly, salon staff also say

that the ability to raise awareness and start the conversation for an

important cause is paramount. Let’s face it: Some of these causes

are pretty sombre, but we all know someone who has been affected

and needs our help. And it reminds us all that salons not only make

people feel good on the outside but also do good work that makes

everyone feel beautiful.

At Salon Magazine, our charity of choice is Look Good Feel Better,

a program that supports women in their fight against cancer. With the

holiday season upon us and the new year around the corner, many of

you may give some thought to thinking of others, but our community

efforts can and should extend well beyond a fundraising event. In

fact, there’s no better way to start off the new year than by being the

steward in your salon, starting the conversation with your team and

establishing a charity effort for 2016.

Laura Dunphy

Publisher

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

ISSN 1197-1495 volume 24 issue 15

salonmagazine.ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Stephanie MacDonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Ashley Kowalewski 416.869.3131 ext.119 ashley@salonmagazine.ca

DESIGNER

Gareth Adamson 416.869.3131 ext.106 gareth@salonmagazine.ca

ONLINE ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.122 nicole@salonmagazine.ca

EDITORIAL INTERN

Emily Smibert 416.869.3131 ext.112 editorialintern@salonmagazine.ca

COPY EDITOR

Corinna Reeves

CONTRIBUTORS

Paul Chmieloweic

GROUP PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca

U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

Samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 SamanthaAnobile1@gmail.com

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Megan Jeffery 416.869.3131 ext.220 megan@salonmagazine.ca

PRODUCTION MANAGER

Alan Swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca

OPERATIONS MANAGER (ON LEAVE)

Karren Han

CIRCULATION MANAGER

Target Audience Management Inc.

T. 905.729.1288 F. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca

EXECUTIVE BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

Candice Besselaar 416.869.3131 ext.108 candice@salonmagazine.ca

CHAIRMAN

Brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca

ASSISTANT TO THE CHAIRMAN

Pam Fulford

VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

Greg Robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca

SUBSCRIPTION RATES

FOR CANADA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax

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or send your cover label and new address to:

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SALON MAGAZINE

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T. 416.869.3131 F. 416.869.3008

641,218 professional and

consumer readers every issue

(source: Market Facts of

Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to:

Circulation Department,

Salon Magazine,

8799 Highway 89, Alliston, ON L9R 1V1 Canada

National Magazine Awards

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Publications Mail Sales

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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising

are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and

in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may

be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in CANADA

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish

your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca.

Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.


GOLD

2008

2003

2002

1998

1995

SILVER

2009

2003

2001

1997

1996

TOP FIVE

2009

2008

2002/2001

2000/1999

1996

Printed on recyclab

This magazine

is recyclable.

Please recycle where

facilites exist.

We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the

Canada Periodical Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage.

“WHEN I MAKE

MY CLIENTS SMILE –

THAT’S REAL

SUCCESS.”

-------

GOLDWELL STYLIST

Dimitrios Tsioumas

-------

JUST LIKE YOU, WE WANT EVERY CLIENT TO

ABSOLUTELY LOVE HER HAIR. THAT‘S WHY WE GIVE

YOU THE PRODUCTS, INSPIRATION, AND EDUCATION

THAT MAKE EVERY APPOINTMENT A SUCCESS.

WWW.GOLDWELL.COM

WE THINK STYLIST

online at

THAT ’S A WRAP!

Retailing around the holiday season is made much

easier with gorgeous gift sets and limited-edition packaging.

Visit SalonMagazine.ca to see our editors’ favourites.

GO BEHIND THE SCENES ON OUR

COVER SHOOT

Any photo shoot is thrilling, let alone when it’s for our

magazine cover! See behind-the-scenes snaps of our day

on set shooting with Kevin Hughes for Moroccanoil.

Our “So You Think You

Can Style?” Perfect

Platinum Winner!

Congratulations to Rhianna Reddekopp from Langley, B.C., who won with

her sleek platinum look. Find out which products she used to achieve this hue

at SalonMagazine.ca.

THE COUNTDOWN IS ON!

You still have a few days to grab your Contessa Gala tickets!

Can’t make the big night? Don’t fret: You can watch

the live webcast from home (no ballgown required!)

at SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa-Gala.

See all of the complete collections in this

issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections!

PHOTOS: HAIR: RHIANNA REDDEKOPP, MAKEUP: ANDREA SALAZAR, PHOTO: DARIAN WONG; CUCCIO;

HICHAM EID; MAJA HAJDUK, BRYAN LOCKYER, ANDREW HARRIS

SalonMag

Salon_Magazine

SalonMagazine

Salon Magazine

SalonMagazine


INTRODUCING

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©2015 Procter & Gamble Inc., Toronto, ON M5W 1C5 All rights reserved

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www.bosleypro.com For information call 1.800.BOSLEY1

©2015 Bosley, Inc. Beverly Hills, CA 90212

All Rights Reserved. Printed for Scientifi c Hair Research, LLC.

We Support

ESP Salon Sales: 1-800-667-2566 | Kingdom Beauty Supplies Ltd: 1-800-738-8666 | Star Bedard: 1-800-361-1978 | Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply: 1-800-387-2962

HAIRLINES

NEWS

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: REDKEN, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, WELLA PROFESSIONALS

UNIVERSAL

LANGUAGES

Wella Professionals creates a new

line of products and a global

language of styling with EIMI.

Do your clients #SpeakEIMI? Bringing the word

even closer to home with the help of social

media, Wella Professionals creates a new global

language of styling with its lineup of products,

EIMI. Inspired by the Greek phrase meaning “I

am,” EIMI delivers uncompromising style for

clients who want to express themselves in four

new products: Root Shoot Precise Root Mousse

for weightless lift, Dry Me Dry Shampoo for

texture and reworkable styles, Sugar Lift Sugar

Spray for Voluminous Texture to add texture and

shine and Perfect Me Lightweight Beauty Balm

Lotion to tame, soften and protect. The next time

your clients come in for a head-turning look, ask

them “Do you #SpeakEIMI?”

UNITED FRONT

Redken’s new One United offers 25 benefits

and a whole new campaign.

Your clients want great hair, but they don’t always want to put the

effort in with multiple products. Redken aims to give them all

of the hair care benefits they need in one winning product with

the new One United All-in-One Multi-Benefit Treatment. This

lightweight leave-in spray does everything, from conditioning

and detangling to priming for heat styling and taming flyaways

for a fuss-free finish. The campaign uses five real-life

influencers, including model Charlotte Di Calypso, model

and designer Alexander Dominguez, actress Ashley Moore,

musician and model Naleye Dolmans and musician, artist

and model Rachel Trachtenburg for this multi-purpose,

street-style-inspired product.

Pretty in Pink

Get the new glam with the Schwarzkopf

Professional Osis+ Soft Glam lineup.

The trends of the past few seasons have changed

the way we view glamour when it comes to hair,

taking a more natural turn. It’s no surprise, then, that

Schwarzkopf Professional launches its latest collection

from the Osis+ lineup, Soft Glam, that caters exactly

to this trend. Touchable and soft, smooth but not too

perfect, the done-undone finish can be achieved with

all four of the new products.

PREP The Osis+ Soft Glam Prime Prep Spray detangles,

prepares and protects strands for styling and blowouts

that will give your clients touchable tresses.

PLUMP Offer weightless volume with the Osis+ Soft

Glam Plumping Shine Mousse, adding shine, body and

UV protection.

PRIMP A strong hold doesn’t have to mean sticky.

Give your clients a super-touchable finish and all-day

hold for their sweet styles with Osis+ Soft Glam

Strong Glossy Holdspray.

POLISH Finish your client’s style off right, free of frizz

and flyaways, with the softening, smoothing and shinecreating

Osis+ Soft Glam Smooth Polish Elixir.

salonmagazine.ca november+december.15 salon 25

SPONSORED CONTENT

HAIRLINES

NEWS

THREE LOOKS,

ONE TROPHY

Unleash your inner

Style Master with Revlon

Professional.

Flex Your

Business

When it comes to the holiday season,

your salon is likely a hub of constant

activity. Rowena Berry, national

business development manager for

Schwarzkopf Professional, has plenty of tricks that will keep

your business in full swing well into the new year.

How can hairstylists keep their schedule well booked after the

holiday rush has died down?

There is defi nitely a rush at this time of year. Pre-book your current clients,

either at their previous appointments or by contacting them at least two

weeks in advance. This will help ensure that you have the time set aside

for them rather than having your schedule taken up by non-regular clients,

including walk-ins. And don’t forget to also pre-book your client’s January

and February appointments, too—it's a hectic time of year so clients will

likely forget unless you remind them.

How can hairstylists keep their appointments moving on schedule

at this time of year when it may be easier to get off track?

Remaining on time with your clients is key. It’s easy to be very casual and

conversational with clients, especially when you have a rapport with them,

but remember that this can be a stressful time of year for them and their

time is precious. If you do fall behind, be proactive by letting reception

know the situation—that way they can manage the process the moment

your next client walks in.

Where can salon owners always improve to create the best

salon experience?

Tighten up your teamwork by encouraging your staff to look beyond what

is happening at their stations. Make sure your staff know that, if they have

time between their appointments, they can offer to shampoo other clients

to keep everyone on schedule and create a comfortable experience for

everyone at the salon.

For the sixth year in a row, Revlon

Professional is ready to empower

and inspire creative hairstylists

with its call to enter the 2016 Style

Masters international competition.

Submit your black and white photo

collection featuring three different

looks with one cut on one model using products from the Revlon

Professional Style Masters line. National winners will move on

to face an international judging panel where nine finalists will be

chosen and have a chance of taking home the grand cash prize

and the Style Masters Gold Trophy. For a complete set of rules,

category and deadline details or to find out more, check out

StyleMasters.com/Contest.

Diamonds Are

Forever

Forever

Label.M

gets

luxurious with its

Diamond Dust line.

How do you get your clients to feel like royalty when they

step into your salon? Use products on them that are befitting

of royalty, of course. Label.M’s new Diamond Dust line has a

shampoo, conditioner and body lotion infused with—you guessed

it—diamonds. The

crown jewel complex

includes microfine

white diamond dust

to add shine and

lustre to hair and

skin, microfine black

diamond dust for

strength, champagne

to remove buildup,

white rose petal oil

for hydration, and

pearl powder and

protein to add a

silky soft finish and

radiance.

PHOTOS: REVLON PROFESSIONAL, LABEL.M

To fi nd out more about the ASK Academy, call 1-800-463-3081

or download the seminar brochure at schwarzkopf-professional.ca.

salonmagazine.ca

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HAIRLINES

NEWS

NEXT

Nioxin’s 3D Styling collection gets a fresh facelift.

While Nioxin is known for its

technology that helps clients

who are facing thinning hair,

that isn’t all the brand does,

and the 3D Styling line is

a perfect example. Nioxin

has given its go-to styling

line a revamp, offering

up the same range and

formulas—including

Bodifying Foam and

Thickening Spray—

with some fresh new

packaging, perfect for

both clients with extrathickening

needs and

those without.

AND THE

WINNER IS...

Don’t forget to

vote for this year’s

Contessa Fan Favourite!

You’ve styled, shot and sent in

your entries for judging and now

it’s time to face your peers. The

Fan Favourite is a fun head-to-head

category where it’s just your friends,

family and fellow stylists voting for

the winning collection. No judges, no pressure, so no worries! The

Fan Favourite voting opens October 11, runs until October 25 and the

winning collection will be announced at the gala on November 8. For

more information or to vote, go to SalonMagazine.ca/FanFavourite!

Dimension

Crew Calling

THINK

green

Biodegradable

Is Beautiful

Here's how one company is changing

the future of salon colour services.

With an estimated 196,000 tonnes of salonproduced

foil waste found in landfills every

year, Biodegradable Beauty co-founders

Norm Wright and Frank Cini, both of Taz

Hair Co. in Toronto, created a product that

would drastically affect the industry’s

global ecological footprint. The Torontobased

company has engineered a natural,

biodegradable salon foil replacement that not

only converts the raw material directly into

carbon dioxide when mixed with compost,

leaving no trace of waste, but also produces

the same colour service results as using a foil.

The clear design allows colourists to check

on colour processes without opening the

application and requires less folding time for

quicker services.

Crew Calling

Ready to rock American Crew’s All-Star Challenge?

Having celebrated its 20th anniversary, American Crew continues a strong history of

innovation and seeks the very best in men’s styling, and this year, the photo-based

competition is no different. Expecting thousands of stylists from around the globe

to enter the All-Star Challenge

in hopes of taking home the

title—it’s recognition as the best

men’s stylist in the world, after

all—American Crew challenges

stylists to be creative and

showcase their interpretation of

the American Crew man. With the

right cut, model and photograph,

you may have what it takes to

compete alongside the best in

men’s styling and grooming from

around the world. Registration

is open and full details are

available at AmericanCrew.com/

AllStarChallenge.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: NIOXIN, ERIC TAVARES, REVLON PROFESSIONAL


HAIRLINES

NEWS

THE KEY TO

HEALTHY

HAIR

Saryna Key Hair Therapy harnesses the

power of African shea butter, comprised of 70

per cent keratin and 30 per cent amino acids,

to give your clients the healthiest hair possible.

All four of the lines—Damage Repair, Volume

Lift, Curl Control and Color Lasting—offer

healthy, manageable hair with an oil, shampoo,

conditioner, leave-in moisturizer, gloss spray

and, the hero of the brand, shea butter, an

intensive treatment that delivers softness,

shine and a fully nourished mane. Want more

reason to love the brand? It uses ethically

sourced ingredients, recyclable packaging and a

cruelty-free approach to its products.

GO WITH

THE FLOW

Flow is a new hair care line in Canada that uses the key ingredient, water, in a

unique way. Based on the principle that the purity of water will improve product

performance, the company has built its own water treatment plant to ensure quality

control for its Hyaline Water. Send your clients home with the InstantIntensity 30

Second Treatment, which uses the brand’s signature H5 Architecture formula—a

blend of organic Abyssinian oil, natural plant extracts and proteins—to transform

their dry, damaged hair into silky tresses in under a minute!

Aloha, Awapuhi!

Straight from the tropics, awapuhi is the combined with keratin and quinoa proteins

secret ingredient behind One ’n Only’s to create the line’s triple-strength complex,

new Island Essentials collection. This

which rebuilds and protects dry and

tropical flower extract, known for softening damaged hair while restoring cuticles from

strands and providing moisture and shine, is within the cortex of your client’s hair.

Temperature ranges from

140˚F to 450˚F for any hair

type or texture.

The oneinch

floating

ceramic plates

provide easy

glide without

clamping hair.

Preset damage control options and auto

shut-off minimize heat damage to both

hair and areas around the iron.

“

TOOLBOX

Fuel Pro Flat Iron

Fuel Pro Flat Iron’s digital preset damage control settings

take the guesswork out of the proper heat setting for

specific textures and services. I can choose one of

the four settings—fine, coloured, thick or

keratin—to determine the ideal working

temperature and make life behind

the chair more efficient.

– Steven Ernewein, Fuel lead ”

educator for Canada

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: SARYNA KEY, FLOW, ONE 'N ONLY, FUEL


HAIRLINES

NEWS

style THE SEASON

With the busy holiday season your clients are likely flooding in for the

perfect party-ready styles. Here’s how to get them ready for the season

with these holiday styling essentials.

TIED WITH A BOW

RE-GIFTING

For clients with fine,

flat hair, Moroccanoil

Thickening Lotion is their

perfect pre-style prep

product. This thickening

lotion expands the hair

shaft for fuller tresses

for clients craving

some body. While this

product expands instead

of lifts, by working it

through clean, damp

strands before giving

your client a volumizing

blowout, you can give

your client’s mane an

extra boost. To give your

client some holiday

flair, Kevin Hughes,

the brand's educator

and spokesperson,

recommends a simple

and pretty upgrade: “A

great alternative to fully

up is a half-up, half-down

look.” He explains, “Pull

the sides back to the

centre and secure with an

elastic, then braid hair to

the end; ‘blouse’ the braid

by pulling the outside to

make it larger, then roll

the braid into itself on

the side that hasn’t been

pulled out and secure

with a pin,” adding a petal

effect, which “creates a

beautiful rosette, using

your client's hair as the

accessory.”

ALL WRAPPED UP

Redken Triple Take 32 is an extreme high-hold hairspray that will give

your clients any style they crave, whether it’s va-va-voom volume

or a super-glam updo that will outlast any party moves they throw

at it. To get any holiday style started, Sean Godard, a Toronto-based

Redken artist, recommends spraying Triple Take 32 “liberally on the

roots of damp hair and comb back into place.” To give your clients a

red-carpet-inspired look, add natural texture to the ends and “finish

with another spray of Triple Take 32 for a modern, slicked-backmeets-texture

look that's perfect for the holiday season.”

Kevin.Murphy introduces

Doo.Over, a dry powder

finishing hairspray that

offers more than just hold.

This hybrid spritz revives

your client’s blowout by

soaking up excess secondday

oil and product while

offering up volume and

hold for any style you

create. Formulated with

tapioca starch to soften

strands and Virginia

cedarwood to gently

remove any buildup on

strands, Doo.Over allows

you to rework your client’s

style, then send it home

with your client to extend

their style. Joseph Zg,

a Kevin.Murphy

Style.Master, recommends

an undressed ponytail

for the holidays: “Make a

horseshoe section at the

top of the head and then

attach the remaining hair

into a low ponytail at the

nape of the neck, leaving

a few pieces out on the

sides. Flip your client’s

head and spray Doo.

Over throughout the top

section, creating fullness

and texture, and then

add the top section to the

existing pony and pull

loosely for a ‘60s feel.”

PHOTOS: MOROCCANOIL, REDKEN, KEVIN.MURPHY


TAKE IT OFF

with NEW DDL Direct Dye Lifter

for Professional Colorists

• Removes unwanted direct dyes and stains

• Success with or without developer

• Creamy, non-drip formula

• Mix with water for gentler lifting

• Creative control for special effects

• Single step freshly-activated formula

DDL Direct Dye Lifter is:

R 100% Vegan

R Cruelty-Free

R Made in the USA

Formulated Without:

R Ammonia

R Formaldehyde

R Gluten

R Parabens

R Fragrance

1.800.622.7332 | www.MalibuC.com/Prof

HAIRLINES

NAILS

dress IT UP

With the festive season upon us, it’s time to dazzle your clients’ tips

with holiday looks created by some of the best in the biz.

NORTHERN LIGHTS MERRY BERRY

SWEATER WEATHER BEJEWELED TREASURE WRAP IT UP

It wouldn’t be the

holidays without a

super-easy, sparkly

manicure for your

clients, straight from

the China Glaze team.

This encrusted treasure

brings a little glitz to

the holidays using

OPI’s new Starlight

collection, created by

the OPI team.

For clients looking

to get extra-snuggly

this season, opt for

this holiday-sweaterinspired

look, created

by the Essie team.

Give your clients

some festive glam

with this look, created

by Sarah O’Brien, Bio

Sculpture educator

for the Maritime

provinces.

CND’s iridescent

Aurora winter

collection makes this

cold-weather season

look so, so good.

1 On a prepared

nail, apply one coat

of Don’t Get Elfed

Up and let dry

completely.

2 Apply striping tape

1 On a prepared nail,

apply a thin coat of

OPI GelColor Base

Coat and cure for 30

seconds under the

OPI LED Light.


apply a thin layer of

Essie Base Coat,

followed by two coats

of Shall We Chalet?

2 Using a striping

brush, create a


apply a layer of Base

Gel. 2 Apply Devoted

Petal and lightly

gradate the colour

lightly towards the

centre of the nail to

create a faded look


apply a thin layer of

CND Shellac Base


seconds. 2 Apply two

thin layers of CND

Shellac Nordic Lights

to the entire nail,

curing each layer for

one minute. 3 Using

in diagonal lines.

3 Paint one coat

of Better Not Pout

over the entire

nail. Remove the

tape before it dries

2 Apply three coats

of OPI GelColor I’m

in the Moon for Love

and cure each coat for

30 seconds.

3 Remove the gel

geometric snowflake

design in the centre

of the accent nail with

Peak Show. 3 Using

a dotting tool and a

striping brush, create

a knit sweater pattern

and cure. 3 Apply

Beauty of Perfection

to the centre of the

nail. Lightly blend

into Devoted Petal

and towards the

opposite edge of

the nail to create a

a fan brush with CND

Shellac Glacial Mist,

apply to two-thirds

of the nail, angling

from the extension

edge towards the

cuticle, and cure for

one minute. 4 Repeat

the same technique

using a fan brush and

completely.

4 Allow polish to dry

completely before

applying a topcoat.

residue. 4 Using

ThinSet Nail Adhesive,

apply Crystal

Chevrons, trimming

the sides as needed.

5 Apply a thin coat

above and below the

snowflake design.

4 On the remaining

nails, use the dotting

tool and striping

brush to create a knit

pattern with Peak

faded look and cure.

4 Apply Gorgeous

Decay to the edge

of the nail, lightly

blending it towards

Beauty of Perfection

to complete the

gradation. 5 Create

CND Shellac Tundra,

applying to half of

the nail, and cure for

one minute. 5 Create

the glacial pattern

using a stylus and

CND Shellac Glacial

Mist and cure for one

minute. 6 Using a gel

flat oval brush, apply

of OPI GelColor Top


seconds. 6 Remove

the gel residue.

Show. 5 Finish with a

striping brush dipped

in Shall We Chalet?

to create the perfect

straight lines and

angles.

the upper arch with

Hard or Medium Gel

and cure. 6 Apply a

final layer of Gloss Gel

and cure.

CND Additives Crystal

Crush and Whiteout to

the top of the cuticle

area, applying a drop of

CND Shellac Xpress5

Top Coat between

layers and cure for

one minute. 7 Wipe

with rubbing alcohol to

remove top film.

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS: CHINA GLAZE, OPI, BIO SCULPTURE GEL, ESSIE, CND


JOIN

THE

MASTER

CLASS

In business for over 20+ years in Canada,

Great Lengths continues to be the most

recognized Hair Extension Brand in the

world. Our supreme hair quality, industry

leading education and customer service

sets Great Lengths apart. We are the

global leaders of ethically sourced, fully

traceable, non-chemically treated hair to

the professional salon industry.

We know what we do well and our

dedication to improving our business helps

us to maximize yours. Our aim is to focus on

you, the stylist, helping expand your career

and being your partner.

Visit our website to learn more about our

products and view our 2015 educational

seminar schedule.

#jointhemasterclass

www.greatlengthscanada.com

WINNER

2012

WINNER

2013

WINNER

2014

WINNER

2015 2014

HAIRLINES

NAILS

BeauTIFFul

Tips

The Toronto

International Film

Festival came with a

flurry of celebrities

walking the red

carpet. CND, Revlon

Professional and

American Crew were

there, getting in on the

celeb-sprucing action.

CND dressed the

tips of some visiting

actors, like Mad Men’s

Kiernan Shipka and

costar Lucy Boynton,

for the premiere

of February, while

American Crew had

its chance to make

Beasts of No Nation

star Idris Elba look

even better for

his premiere.

Theory of

EVOlution

Bio Sculpture’s new EVO2 line will change

the way you do soak-off services.

When it comes to soak-off services,

technology has advanced in the past

few years, making it much safer for

both nails and skin to go under the

lamp. But once one innovation starts,

it doesn’t stop, especially with Bio

Sculpture’s new EVO2 system. While

the curing steps remain the same,

it’s the formula and the removal

process that are the game-changers.

Two minutes is all it takes for the

EVO2 Oxygenating Base, colour

coats and either the Glossy or Matte

Top Coats to cure. When it comes

time for removal, clients just have

to soak for 10 minutes before the

polish rolls off, preventing damage

to the nails because of the flexible

polyurethane formula. Plus, this mani

will last up to three weeks, so your

clients can get through the entire

party season without touch-ups.

ALL TINSELLED OUT

LCN

The six-piece

Industrial Innocence

collection marries

seasonal neutrals

with bright pops

of colour.

MORGAN TAYLOR

Gifted With Style

invites clients to

unwrap decadence

with the season’s

most notorious

shades.

OPI

The Holiday Starlight

collection brings

together celestialinspired

shades, from

sparkly slate No More

Mr. Night Sky to

midnight blue Give

Me Space.

ORLY

Why be famous

when you can be

Infamous like these

six new shades,

just in time for the

your-time-to-shine

season.

ARTISTIC NAIL

DESIGN

Celebrate the season

with extra sparkle

and six new shades,

including gold and

teal, in the Tinseled

collection.

CHINA GLAZE

Leave it to this

brand to release a

bevy of blingedout

shades, from

high-shine sparkles

to smaller doses

of shimmer in the

Cheers! lineup.

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: CND, BIO SCULPTURE, CHINA

GLAZE, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, ORLY, OPI, MORGAN TAYLOR, LCN


HAIRLINES

ESTHETICS

makeup BAG OF TRICKS

Whether your client wants that go-to smoky eye or a pretty pink pout, we’ve got some of the best

beauty launches to help them (and you) get through the holiday season of party-ready makeup.

SWIPE RIGHT

Bodyography’s go-to Electric Lip Slides

lip glosses, like this perfectly rosy

Tickled Pink shade, are now available in

a compact on-the-go format your clients

will want.

MINTY FRESH

Aveda’s Nourish-Mint Smoothing Lip Color is already a beauty fave,

but mix in the dark and moody Blackberry shade for the fall and holiday

season and you have a winner. It's great for those clients who are willing

to step out of their comfort zone just a bit and go for a bold, bold lip.

SMOKE SHOW

This season, the smoky eye is being paired with white liner and

highlighting to give clients that wide-eyed appeal. SST Cosmetics

Power Stay Highlighting Stick in Glisten and Power Stay Shadow

Stick in Plank are two must-haves to achieve this look with the

creamy, blendable formula.

VELVET KISS

Who says lip pencils

have to be chalky

and drying? Mirabella

Velvet Lip Pencil in

Vice is creamy and

smooth, hydrating

lips and adding a

generous dose of

this rich, holidayready

hue.

ALL EYES ON ME

Part of the Jewel Thief

collection for the holidays,

Mirabella Second Skin

Eyeshadow in Lavender

Larceny adds colour and

dimension to your client’s

finished look. The mineralbased

formula allows you

to build as much colour as

your clients crave, without

creasing or flaking.

HIGH BROW

Even when your clients aren’t

coming to you to get their

makeup done, they can still

achieve the perfect faceframing

brow. Mirabella The

Brow Pencil allows you and

your clients to draw on small,

hair-like strokes with one end

and then blend them in with

the brush on the other.

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL C


KEVIN.MURPHY

DOO.OVER

A HAIR-DOO IN A CAN! THIS VOLUMISING DRY

SHAMPOO COMBINES VOLUMISING POWDER

TECHNOLOGY WITH ESSENTIAL OILS & HOLDING

RESINS TO CREATE LONG LASTING RESULTS.

KEVINMURPHY.COM.AU

www.internationalbeauty.ca

Alterna, Babe, Bioelements, DS Laboratories, Dannyco, Ego,

Johnny B, Kasho, Kevin.Murphy, Logics, L’Oréal Professionnel, Matrix,

Neuma, One Styling, OPI, PureOlogy, Tressa, REDAVID, SpaRitual

11 stores to serve your professional needs in AB, SK & MB

Order Desk call toll free: 1.800.642.3818

www.TBBS.ca

Affinage, Alterna, Bosley Professional Strength, ISO

Johnny B, Joico, Kevin.Murphy, Macadamia Professional

Mixed Chicks, Neuma, Saryna Key

4 stores to serve your professional needs in ON

Call toll free 1.800.387.2962 or locally: 416.787.1211

HAIRLINES

ESTHETICS

GET YOUR

glow ON

Three ways in salon tanning services will

boost your esthetics menu.

In the deep, dark cold of winter, it’s only natural that we’re missing our

sun-kissed skin. Even still, many clients may not realize that sunless

tanning isn’t only a healthier option, it’s one that has evolved past that

iconic episode of Friends. According to Uvalux vice president of sales

Elaine Bridgett, the main reason for that glowing orange hue of the

mid-90s was the quality of the solution. “They were likely using

less expensive products, and products that have an orange-yellow

tone rather than the red-brown found in today’s sunless tanning

solutions.” Whether they’re heading on vacation, planning a special

occasion or simply crave a break from the cold, here’s how tanning

can help you add extra revenue in the cold, dark days of January.

tech talk

These days, even boutique salons can offer tanning services

by investing in the right equipment. For most salons, Bridgett

recommends a hands-off unit that offers the flexibility, so that

you don’t have to hire extra staff, making it easy to maximize the

return on your investment. That said, a hand held unit allows you

to customize tans, however, you’ll need someone who is trained

and skilled in application. This might be a great option at salons

who also employ makeup artists who may be able to provide this

service during off peak hours.

on the upselling

While it may not be top of mind for everyone, the colder weather

season is the perfect time to talk tanning. Bridgett recommends

offering monthly packages as a way of encouraging repeat clients.

Depending on your client base, Bridgett suggest pairing tanning services

with manicures, pedicures or other esthetics, as an alternate way of

encouraging a second visit. Ladonna Sheridan, national sales manager of

Fake Bake, says that planning services that encourage two visits before

a special occasion or vacation will allow clients to get accustomed to the

results, and in most cases that alone will have them returning.

retailing opportunities

For clients who seem hesitant but interested, Bridgett suggests offering a

free service. “Units today have the option of spraying the legs or face, which

enables your client to see how far sunless spray tanning has evolved,” she

says. Maintaining the look of their tan beyond the salon is also important and

both Ladonna and Bridgett say that moisturizing is key, because hydrated skin

will retain the tan best, which makes retailing both oil-free and dry oil spray

products the homecare options your clients really need post tan.

TEXT: YASMIN GROTHÉ; PHOTO: HAIR:TONY WILSON, RAVEN HAIRCUTTERS, AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND,

TEXT: ANNA LEE BOCHETTO, PHOTO: THINKSTOCK

STYLING: JANE MOW, PHOTO: IAN SMITH; GOLDWELL, REDKEN, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

40 salon november+december.15 s alonmagazine.ca

grow A mo, sAve A bro

AmericAn crew And the movember FoundAtion

teAm up to chAnge the FAce oF men’s heAlth

Sign up and donate at MOVEMBER.COM

For inquiries please call 1.800.387.7980 © 2015 aMerican creW. all riGHTs reserVeD.

FolloW us on TWiTTer @aMericancreW

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HAIRLINES

COLOUR

BLACK IS THE

NEW BLACK

After an almost-dizzying excess of platinum

and pastels, the hair colour pendulum is slowly

swinging back to the dark side.

THE PENDULUM SWINGS BACK

“I think the desire for darker hair started to

emerge when most clients grew bored with

cotton candy hair and pastels became more and

more popular in the last year,” says Alex Chabot,

artistic director for Matrix Canada.

From a marketing standpoint, the cycle of

trends is usually quite predictable. Once a hot

and exciting look starts to trickle down to the

masses, it’s time to move on to something totally

new and desirable for the glitterati to endorse,

own and show off.

In the latest Fashion Week installments for

fall/winter 2015/16 around the globe, the most

celebrated designers—from Armani to Alexander

Wang to Marc Jacobs—are toying with the idea

of bringing back black hair—in all shapes and

finishes: messy, wavy, textured and even wet.

“There is no denying that the Kardashians are

still playing a pivotal role in fashion and beauty,

whether you like them or not,” notes Chabot,

“and they are now sporting much darker manes.”

Witness the ultra-shiny ebony hair of Kendall

Jenner, who has just joined the ranks of the

highest-earning models. “And Kim’s hair went

much darker after she dabbled in platinum last

spring.”

THE PERFECT BLEND

But make no mistake: The newest on-trend crop of

blacks isn’t an all-over colour application or a levelone

shade. For this look to really make your name

take off and your clients take notice, “You need to

mix in different hues to create a multi-dimensional

shade,” cautions Guylaine Marel, Contessa 2014

Elite Master Hairstylist winner. “If you only apply

one very dark shade all over, the hair will end up

looking like a wig or, worse, the old-school ’80s

blue-black variety.”

The trick to achieving those coveted new darks

is to apply the colour tone on tone and lighten key

pieces of hair to create a 3-D effect, giving the hair

depth and creating volume with subtle differences

of colour.

“You’re mainly working with level-three shades

and creating a contouring effect by lightening the

hair around the face, which is very flattering to a

complexion of any age, too,” says Martel. To do so,

she suggests gently lifting hair on the perimeter of

the face with Blond Studio Freehand Techniques

from L’Oréal Professionnel, which is ideal for

natural-looking results. In this case, you will be

following the lightening procedure by adding a

jewel tone to create a beautiful multi-dimensional

effect. “No need to use foils for this,” says Martel.

You simply hand-paint the crème on the hair using

your artistry to determine where you want to add

the contrasting shade on the darker hair.

OMBRÉ 2.0

Ombré is still widely requested by clients and, let’s

face it, pretty easy and quick to achieve in the salon.

But the new twist to creating a more current look

for this technique is to use darker shades to create

a dip-dye look in any shade from blue-grey to mauve

to emerald—stunning on a deep brown hue—at

the roots or the tips, depending on the overall look

you have in mind for your client. “Hair colour has

become all about creating a customized look,”

says Martel. “It’s not just about one cookie-cutter

approach to colouring.”

So you might want to use an ombré or a

balayage technique to go darker and create

beautiful darker lowlights of purple, mauve or

emerald on an espresso-coloured base.

Vadre Grigsby, artistic colour director for

Pravana, has created some stunning ombré darkjewel-toned

locks by adding new Vivids Black to

her colour formulas. “With the new Pravana Vivids

Black, I was able to create multiple shades of

smoky grays, crisp carbons, deep shadowy violets

and muted lavenders. Even just a few drops

of black into an existing formula creates a new

deeper, darker version of it—it's like finding the

edgy side of your formula.”

Vivids Black from

Pravana

Add Vivids Black from Pravana to any

shade of Vivids you want to deepen

in small amounts and mix well until

you’ve reached your desired

depth of tone. As with all

Vivids shades, it’s a direct,

semi-permanent hair

colour that you apply to

clean, dry, prelightened

hair and process for 20

to 30 minutes at room

temperature.

Blond Studio

Freehand Techniques

Powder from L’Oréal

Professionnel

A unique formula with a thick, creamy

texture for great adherence that

encapsulates hair for precise freehand

application.

Perfect for

balayage and

all freehand

lightening

applications.

Soblur Color Adjuster

from Matrix

A professional multi-tasker for colour

adjustment to create sombré effects

and lighten hair in

minutes without

ammonia. “Think of

it like an Instagram

filter!” says Alex

Chabot, artisic

director for Matrix

Canada.

TEXT: YASMIN GROTHÉ; PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK, PRAVANA, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, MATRIX


HAIRLINES

NEWS

editor’s

PICKS

The season is changing and your roster

of products should, too. Here are some

of the latest and greatest that our

editors are coveting right now.

TO INFINITY AND BEYOND

L’Oréal Professionnel’s cult favourite, Infinium

hairspray, has been given a facelift but keeps

the same awesome formula. This spray

offers that infinite-hold finish so your clients

can get holiday-ready without any fuss.

lorealprofessionnel.ca

SHINY PENNY

Adding to its line of colour-protecting products,

Joico adds two new hues to the Color Infuse

Shampoo and Conditioner family to protect the

colour of clients who are rocking a rich brown or

sultry copper. joico.com

ALL HANDS ON DECK

It’s not just your client’s

hair that needs some

extra TLC when the

temperatures start to

dip but their skin as

well. Eufora Urgent

Repair Hand Cream

has a whole roster of

skin-loving ingredients

to smooth, soothe and

nourish dry and chapped

hands. eufora.net

GOLDENEYE

Give your clients the gold standard in colour

care with the new Pureology Nano Works Gold

Shampoo and Conditioner, infused with golden

marula oil for rejuvenated hair. pureology.com

DRY CLEAN ONLY

For those clients following the no ‘poo movement

who need some extra moisture, hand them the

new Macadamia Professional Ultra Rich Moisture

Cleansing Conditioner. macadamiahair.com

DRY SPELL

Aveda introduces a new Dry Shampoo with natural

powders that soak up oil and signs of second-day

bedhead, leaving behind a clean, ready-to-style

mane and light Shampure scent. aveda.ca

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL C


COAL HANDS,

WARM HEART

DON’T GET

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I SOIREE

I DIDN’T DO IT

MIX AND

MINGLE

BRAND SPARKIN’

NEW YEAR

BETTER

NOT POUT

WINE DOWN

FOR WHAT?

PEPPERMINT

TO BE

UGLY SWEATER

PARTY

SON OF A

NUTCRACKER

BRING ON

THE BUBBLY

BREAK

THE ICE

Model is wearing Son of a Nutcracker.

GET

INSTA

-glam

There are plenty of ways to give your

clients a touch of glamour, without

breaking their budget while still

maximizing your salon’s profits.

By Anna Lee Boschetto

Between office parties and holiday events, your clients

are looking to glam up their look. Whether it’s to refresh

their colour, recreate a classic chignon with a twist

or add extra volume to their locks, all of their heads will turn

to you for your professional expertise. Here’s how you can

customize your client’s hairstyle and boost your earnings by

creating glamorous holiday looks.

HIT THE GLAM SPOT

According to Erin Montgomery, community manager for The Ten

Spot in Toronto, the demand for glam during the busy holiday

season is one of the reasons the company partnered with the

Hudson's Bay Company to offer quick hairstyles and blowouts in a

convenient location, in the heart of Toronto’s fashion and financial

district. “The styles take 20 minutes, so if you have a lunch

meeting, a date or an office party, you can refresh your look, even

if you’re short on time,” she explains. Because each look takes less

than half an hour, you’re able to accommodate more clients, which

boosts your revenue without clients breaking their budget.

STYLE MATTERS Creating an upstyling menu during the holiday

season is a terrific opportunity for hairstylists to offer clients a

choice when they are asking about upcoming events. This way,

clients can choose their look and know they’ll be well coiffed

without having to spend a lot of time (or money) in the salon.

PHOTOS: HAIR: THE FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING F.A.M.E. TEAM

FEATURING ELLANORA DEAN, DAFYDD RHYS THOMAS, LEIGH ANNE REGAN,

SIMON TUCKWELL, ART DIRECTION: BRUNO MARC GIAMATTEI, MAKEUP:

SOPHIE COX, STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES


UP AND AWAY

For Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks Artist, Michelle Oliver, upstyling—classic

hair with a twist—is where it’s at for the holiday season. “It’s about creating an urban feel

so that hair is more of an accessory,” explains Oliver. She says that a chignon with a knot

either at the side, low at the back or high on top and a French twist with exposed bobby

pins, make these styles current.

STYLE MATTERS For clients who want to achieve their holiday hairstyles at home, Oliver

suggests booking an extra 15 minutes for their appointment so hairstylists can walk them

through a styling step-by-step. Many clients will rebook a follow-up appointment to really

nail down their look, which is a quick and low-cost way to increase your income. Happy

client, happy hairstylist.

PUMP UP THE

VOLUME

As a Contessa Hair Extensions Artist

finalist, Jennifer Reid explains that not

many people have naturally thick hair that

hold curls well. That means for clients who

are longing for bombshell locks or undone

waves and texture, hair extensions are the

way to make the look happen. “With my

clients, I’ll talk about what they’re doing

for the holidays and find out whether

they’re going on vacation. That will help me

determine the type of extension I’ll use.”

STYLE MATTERS Reid is also quick to

bring her clients back to reality when

they show her pictures of celebrity

hairstyles, especially those who have

hair extensions. “For upstyling especially,

having more hair to work with gives

more shape, separation and texture,” she

explains, adding that this is key in creating

the currently popular undone looks. S


skin

lips

FACE TIME

Seeing a barely there

approach to complexion

on the runways,

White suggests fresh

complexions for

holiday looks, letting

the colour do the talking.

“I love applying skinsmoothing

primers under

foundation. Taking the

time to properly prep

the skin before makeup

makes all the difference.”

Prepping lips is always

a must, especially when

your client wants to go

bold. “Primer is key to a

red lip, no matter what the

shade, as it prevents the

lip colour from feathering,”

says White. Create a dayto-night

look for your

clients during their busy

social schedule by pairing

“smoky eyes with a nude

glossy lip or a champagne

eye with a red lip,” for an

updated yet classic

party look.

Past Contessa finalist and makeup artist Melanie

White from Taz Hair Co. in London, Ont., has all

the best tips to take your clients from day to night

and have them looking festive in no time.

cheeks

By Ashley Kowalewski

eyes

“This season, we’re

seeing the traditional

smoky eye in a more

contemporary light,”

explains White. “The

eye is worn in, from soft

and subtle to dark and

heavily rimmed grey

palettes.” Create the

smoky effect by “lining

the upper and lower lash

with the pencil, then

smudge and blend up to

the crease with a pencil

tip brush.” For holiday

parties, false lashes are

always the finishing

touch.

contouring

White says contouring

shouldn't make clients

look like celebrities

with “war paint.” “This

season, contouring

varies from soft whispers

of blush to sharp

contoured lines,” says

White. “Choosing the

right texture for the

client’s desired look and

blending are key.”

Cheeks shouldn’t be starting the conversation. As White explains,

“Cheeks have been pretty soft, with colours sparingly applied. Even new

brushes are being designed to apply makeup in a wisping fashion.” White

says a less-is-more approach works well: “Hold your blush brush at the

bottom of the handle for more application control.” S

PHOTO: MAKEUP AND HAIR: MELANIE WHITE, TAZ HAIR CO., LONDON, ONT., PHOTO:

JASON BROWN


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Keep Your

Business Booming

Boost your revenue with added services that your clients are craving in order

to show off a glammed-up look straight into the new year. Here’s the rundown

on how you can give your salon a healthy boost right now!

By Yasmin Grothé

Upsell the

smart way

Marketing experts say consumers tend to

be a bit more relaxed in terms of spending

when end-of-year festivities are right around

the corner. In fact, we all indulge in a little

gingerbread latte here and maybe a pair

of glitzy shoes that caught our eye while

shopping for the kids over there. And just like

you, your client is now open to treat herself

to a few little extras. But, like everything else,

it’s all about presentation.

According to Ramsey Sayah, owner of

Texture Hair Salon in Ottawa, which boasts a

booming business, “You have to be cautious

about upselling services and products to

clients. It always depends on their personality

and what they really want in the end. You

shouldn’t try to go over the 30-dollar mark in

extra services. Little perks that are 10, 15 or

20 dollars work well. Anything higher and you

will be perceived as greedy. And you certainly

don’t want that if your aim is to continue to

work with a stable, trustworthy clientele.”

If offering extras traditionally takes place

during the consultation, some brands and

salons are now experimenting with the idea

of including them as the client is moved

along from one service to the next (sinkside,

technical, styling).

“The idea is to sell a look instead of

individual services in order to boost your

revenue,” says Mathieu Bouchard, marketing

director at L’Oréal Professionnel. “The launch

of our new Pro Fiber collection is totally

in line with this philosophy. The in-salon

treatment (sometimes included in the colour

service) is also used at home in order to

increase the value of the professional service

and augment retail sales. And, because the

quality of the hair is instantly enhanced,

the client is very receptive to the idea of

purchasing the product for herself.”

Multi offer

“Every time you greet a client at your salon

you need to step out of your routine and think

of how you can customize the experience

for her,” says Stéphan W., a Montreal-based

hairstylist. “And you always have to aim to

offer a premium service, even if you think

you already know what she wants or not.

Sometimes a long, relaxing sinkside massage

is great, but it’s even better if she can see

the results on her hair immediately.”

That’s exactly where a service like

Malibu C fits in. What’s great about Malibu C

is that every single client can benefit from it

because we all have mineral buildup, which

dulls colour or makes hair look lifeless. Even

better, “The vegan ingredients in the product

bring the health factor into the equation,

which is something more and more women

are looking for,” stresses Stéphan W. “Having

beautiful healthy hair really has no price.”

Sayah says it’s never been a better time to

be a colourist since the days of the one-colour

look are long gone. “Now that we’re seeing

a variation of ombré and balayage—with

darker roots or tips, depending on the look

you and the client want to achieve—this is

where these specialty colour services really

make you stand out as a professional since

this can’t be achieved at home.” According

to Sayah, “being able to create a highly

customized look makes you the absolute

hair and fashion expert, and this is something

consumers thrive on when they come

to the salon.”

PHOTOS: SALON DAEUVILLE, NOVA LASH, THINKSTOCK

50 salon november/december.15 salonmagazine.ca

Dish out

the details

Claudia Iacono, owner of Salon Deauville

in Montreal, has a sharp mind for business

and does not hesitate to go well beyond

the regular salon offerings to make sure her

clients feel pampered, like the Porsche driver

service. “It’s actually my car and my husband

is the driver,” she explains, “But our clients

love it! It makes it easier for them to come to

the salon and they don’t need to worry about

taking taxis for about the same price but with

a whole lot more style!” Jewelry retailing is

another luxe aspect of her salon and Iacono

replenishes her accessories section every

two to three weeks, “to keep the selection

fresh and exciting, in tune with the calendar.”

Ongoing communication with your clients

is also important. “Always reach out to

clients to remind them they should book an

appointment,” says Sayah. “We send out

newsletters and texts every six months

if they haven’t come to the salon. Once you’re

in our system, we never let you go!” S

Smart Add-Ons

Simply making your holiday specials known to your clients with

mirror signage is a great way to start the conversation about

additional services. Here are five ways that salons are making the

most of the holiday season by adding on new sales opportunities.

1. QUICK BITES

“Everything in our in-salon café is homemade from our own

recipes at my mother-in-law’s bakery from our own recipes, and

we have specials every day,” says Iacono. “Our café is so popular

that even people who work in the neighbourhood come in for their

takeout lunch.”

2. BOUTIQUE EXPERIENCE

“We bring in new merchandise in our boutique every week.

We shop in L.A. and in Europe and also feature exclusive

designer clothes that have tons of fashion appeal.

During the holidays, we also carry those really hot

items that fly off the shelves, like fur vests that are

great gifts.”

3. MICRO SERVICES

Texture Hair Salon offers 20-minute add-on

services for $20 (makeup touch-ups, brow

shaping and shiatsu head massages). “This strategy also allows us

to elevate the level of service while remaining affordable for the

client,” explains Sayah. Sayah also recommends offering services

like Luxe Oil from Wella Professionals, which makes hair shiny and

supple and protects the natural keratin.

4. ENHANCED MAKEUP ARTIST

Specialty eyelashes are particularly well suited to the holiday

season. “This is a great time of year to transition clients to

upgraded services that they will fall in love with and stick with

in the new year,” says Stefanie Thurman, a NovaLash brand

ambassador and Billion Dollar Brows artist. “If your lash studio

carries NovaLash NovaMinx or NovaLash American Volume lashes,

have them try it for the holiday season.”

5. BONDING MOMENT

“Suggesting a bonding service like Olaplex is a great idea to

supplement your income, too, while taking care of your client’s

hair," says Stéphan W. “More often than not, your client won’t mind

spending an extra $25 if she knows her hair will look amazing.

It’s a win-win.”

salonmagazine.ca november/december.15 salon 51

BEHIND THE SCENES

ON INSPIRATION

My ideas come from

many places, art and

photography. There’s

a lot of research in

other countries and

drawing inspiration

from something that

might catch my eye,

like the texture or

colour in a photo. I

love when you feel

the mood of a photo.

ON-SET SOLUTION

Trust your gut instinct.

Sometimes the direction

can come from a

photographer or creative

designer if it isn’t reaching

his or her vision. You have

to be very flexible when

doing editorial work.

Cover Shoot

Confidential


Salon Magazine spoke with

Moroccanoil’s educator and

spokesperson, Kevin Hughes, for his

inspiration, troubleshooting on set

and top essentials for creating

winning looks.

PRO PICKS

A must for editorial work is a

good hairspray, like Luminous

Hairspray, that won’t flake or

leave any residue. The new extrastrong

formula brushes out easily

and can be used for many looks,

including curls, slicked hair and

adding texture. You are changing

hair so often during an editorial

shoot, you can’t have any flakes

show up in the hair. S

CHANGE MAKER When there are people on set waiting on you, you have

to be able to change the hair quickly. The key part is spending time in

the morning with the most time-consuming look and then building that

around the rest of the day. For instance, if you were going to do a wet

look, you would always try to keep that for the last shot.

ON HOLIDAYS I am originally from

New York, and, for me, the most

important thing is to be with family,

so I am always home with family

over the holidays. Oh, that and food!

NOW TRENDING

For fashion, it’s

definitely centre

parting, soft and

natural hair and

adding a bit of

polish. You’ll also

see a trend in sleek,

shiny hair, as well as

one for an intricate

graphic ponytail.

TEXT: ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO, PHOTOS: HITCHAM EID


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Moroccanoil

educator and

spokesperson Kevin

Hughes adds a touch

of charm with a

modern, updated

approach to classic

holiday styling in

this Salon Magazineexclusive

photo

shoot.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.


Isn’t SHE

lovely


Hair: Kevin Hughes, Moroccanoil

educator and spokesperson

Makeup: Wendy Rorong

Styling: Talia Brown

Photos: Richard Dubois


Revlon Professional Fall in Love

Collection Autumn–Winter 2015–16

Artistic and creative director:

Miguel García Cotado

Photos: David Dunan



for love of

country

The true embodiment of countryside

chic, this Revlon Professional

collection breathes a little Britain

into natural tones and sensual yet

sophisticated hairstyles.



Hair: Claudia Cataldo,

Cataldo’s Salon, Canberra, Australia

Colour: Sheldon Brown

Makeup: Kylie O’Toole

Photos: Andrew O’Toole


With throwbacks to

notorious decade

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collection reaches

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RETRO REBEL


Between cover shoots

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duo created a dynamic

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Hair, colour and photos:

Rossa Jurenas and Damien Carney

using Schwarzkopf Professional

Makeup: Whitney Heirwegh

Styling: Adrien Arnieri



CREATIVE

INTERLUDE


Hair: Kristy Hodgson,

Jarahs Hair,

Berri, South Australia

Makeup: Meggie Maper

Styling: Milana Scerbakova

Photos: Carl Keeley



the ethereal

CHANGELING

Inspired by the wildcat, this collection

celebrates its playful yet mysterious

character with classic silhouettes and

delicate, touchable textures.


Expert precision

is the name of

the game with

this masterful

colour technique,

showing off all the

shades we need

for the season.


Finalist, Contessa 26 Master

Colourist of the Year: Michael Shire,

Holt Renfrew Salon & Spa, Toronto

Makeup: Robert Weir

Styling: Annie Lam

Photos: Kale Friesen


Modern

flair


Hair: Brian Gallagher, Gallagher

& Horner, Glasglow, U.K.

Makeup: Clare Read

Styling: Clare Frith

Photos: Andrew O’Toole



This collection is a

throwback to the

glamorous ‘70s with

metallic details,

blunt fringes and

choppy cuts.

liquid

METAL


Hair: Richard Ashforth

with Saco Creative Team,

Saco Hair London, London

Makeup: Marco Antonio

Styling: Serena Gili

and Nafisa Tosh

Photos: Colin Roy



MODERN

MUSE

Flawless cutting and texture meets its

match with this collection’s play on

neutrals and a smoky colour palette.


Haunted beauties are given

modern cuts and texture with a

classic portraiture feel in this

dark but alluring collection.

Shadow

Play



Finalist, Contessa 26 Canadian

Hairstylist of the Year: Rob Gaspar,

Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton

Makeup: Noelle Hill

Styling: Rob Gaspar

Photos: Ara Sassoonian



Hair and colour:

Mahogany Creative Team,

Mahogany Hairdressing,

London and Oxford, U.K.

Makeup: Fabio Gomes

Styling: Chloe Holland

Photos: Nessi


Radiant colour

contouring and

clean lines make

these classic

portraitures

a dramatic

affair to

remember.

colour

tease


glamour

girl

Effortlessly chic street-ready

styling meets va-va-volume in

this collection that’s wearable

and oh-so-feminine.


Hair: Fellowship for British

Hairdressing F.A.M.E. Team 2014:

Ellenora Dean, Dafydd Rhys Thomas,

Leigh Anne Regan, Simon Tuckwell

Art direction: Andreas Stavrou (GHD)

and Bruno Marc Giamattei

Makeup: Vanessa Collins

Styling: Kaz Jones

Photos: David Mannah



Statement-making cuts, styles and

colours shake up the traditional

ideals of beauty to show off a new

generation of tastemakers.


RENEGADE CALLING


Hair: Toni&Guy Australian

Artistic Team, Toni&Guy,

Paddington, Australia

Makeup: Mikele Simone

Styling: Lydia-Jane Saunders

Photos: David Mannah



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Scandalous, mysterious and steeped in

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CONTESSA

GALLERY

Contessa 26 Finalist,

Canadian Salon Team

Daniel Naumovski, owner of Taz Hair Co., is a

veteran in the industry and has his hands full

balancing time in the salons, his work as a

L’Oréal Professionnel portfolio artist and time at

home with his family.

Taz Hair Co.

This isn’t the first time that Daniel explains that going into shoots now, he is

Naumovski, owner of Taz Hair Co. in “more prepared with concepts and puts a

Toronto, has entered the Contessa little more thought [into the shoot]." He says

Awards. So it’s no surprise that, over the that you can start off with an idea or concept

years, he has streamlined his process and in mind, but once you get on set, things

taken a different, more relaxed approach to may change and you have to let that happen

creating a collection. When entering a salon organically to get a strong finish.

team category, he admits that “it can be

Precise instrument

difficult because everyone has his or her own

One of the hallmarks of Naumovski’s work is

visions and ideas,” but over the last 25 years

his precision cutting, which he explains is one

in the industry and 19 years as the owner

of his favourite techniques to incorporate into

of Taz Hair Co., which has grown to three

his collections. While it wasn’t the inspiration

locations, he has mastered the process of

for this particular shoot, it showcased his work

selecting a great team.

more than ever. “I love doing precision cuts,

Gaining perspective

having a sharp, clean, almost-perfect line,”

“When I first started shooting [collections], it he explains. “With everything being digitized

was so time-consuming: You had to prep your these days, you can’t tell what’s real, but even

models and test the lighting with a Polaroid,” if there’s a strand out of place, I don’t want it to

he explains, citing this understanding of how be touched up in the photo.” It’s this precision

the process has changed for his appreciation cutting and meticulous nature that he wants to

of how shoots can be completed now. He stand out, not the photo retouching skills. S

1L’ORÉAL

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The Taz Hair Co. team used

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without compromising the

integrity of the precision cut.

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It’s no surprise that this

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TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; HAIR: DANIEL NAUMOVSKI, TAZ HAIR CO., TORONTO; MAKEUP:

KATIE FOSTER; PHOTO: NATASHA GERSCHON; PHOTOS: L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL


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AHEAD OF THE CURVE

2016 FINALISTS

CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST

Stacey Abdella, Ricci Hair Co., St. Albert, Alta.

Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny, Que.

John Jen Hoe Chong, Harrow Hair Company,

Edmonton

Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group,

Vancouver

Mandy MacFadden, Salon Decorum, Newmarket, Ont.

Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs,

Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que.

Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C.

Alain Pereque, Salon Saco Drummond, Montreal

Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

CANADIAN SALON TEAM

Blushes, Ottawa, Ont.

Civello Salon, Toronto

Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg

Local B, Montreal

Ölab Coiffeurs, Montreal

Salon Pure, Montreal

Suki’s, Vancouver

Toque & Cie, Victoriaville, Que.

Zinc Hair, Vancouver

ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST

Domenic Commisso, Fiorio Square One,

Mississauga, Ont.

Anthony Crosfield, Union Salon, Vancouver

Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont.

Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont.

Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, Montreal



Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton

Domenico Tomei, Fernando Cellini Hair Salon,

Ottawa, Ont.

Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa, Ont.

MASTER COLOURIST

Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B.

Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont.

Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S.

Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C.

Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C.

Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Mas’oud Salon, Toronto

Rhianna Reddekopp, Terra Casa, Langley, B.C.

Marlo Steenman, The Glamour Box, St. Albert, Alta.

Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver

Renn VonDyck, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg

CANADIAN COLOURIST

Rodrigo Araneda, ÖLAb Coiffeurs, Montreal

Ann-Marie Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que.

Connor Lange, Rapunzel’s Hair Design, Stratford, Ont.

Karly Menzies, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C.

Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C.

Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton

Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont.

Ricardo Perdigao, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton

Lisa Smith, Mint Hair Lounge, Port Moody, B.C.

Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto

SESSION HAIRSTYLIST



Simone Pettigrew, Fuss Art of Hair, Edmonton

Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Etobicoke, Ont.

Dat Tran, Dat Salon, Toronto

Marilyn Vendittelli, Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont.

TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST

Cynthia Boisclair, Oxygen Coiffure,

Drummondville, Que.

Mathieu Hubert, Supernova Salon,

North Vancouver, B.C.

Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver

Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Etobicoke, Ont.

Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

MEN'S HAIRSTYLIST

Matty Conrad, Victory Barber & Brand, Victoria, B.C.

Maki Mak, Zinc Hair, Vancouver

Tyana Nichole, Pop Opera Salon, Vancouver

Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto

Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa, Ont.

AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST


Vancouver

Alexandre Melançon, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal

Palma N’Sheluvzit, The Hair Spot, Toronto

Stéphane Scotto di Cesare, Freelance, Montreal

Ivy Tatlock, Zoom Hair Studio, New Westminster, B.C.

MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST

Soyeon Jin, Pomp & Proper Salon, Vancouver

Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, Montreal

Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver

Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto

Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver

HAIR EXTENSIONS ARTIST

Chantel Allen, Pro Club 11, Edmonton

Thomas Cameron, Taz Hair Co., Toronto

Lindsay Gray, Define Hair Design, Burlington, Ont.

Jennifer Reid, Chatters Hair Salon, London, Ont.

Sonia Yarkhani, Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto

MAKEUP ARTIST

Noelle Hill, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton

Bree Powell, Makeup by Bree, Toronto

Virginie T. Simard, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs,


Rita Stirpe, Makeup by Rita Stirpe, Woodbridge, Ont.

Ekaterina Ulyanoff, Salon Pure, Montreal

CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST

Valerie Ducharme, Valerie Ducharme, Laval, Que.

Nargis Khan, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto

Claire Mifsud, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto

Naomi Misu, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto

Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair and Esthetics,

Lloydminster, Alta.

NEW HAIRSTYLIST

Étienne Cloutier, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que.

Connor Lange, Rapunzel’s Hair Design, Stratford, Ont.

Brittany Ostash, Axis Hair Salon, Vancouver

Sandra Perovic, Ignite Hair & Beauty Lounge,

Vancouver

David Vendittelli, Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont.

STUDENT/APPRENTICE

Kaitlin Belland, Rock Paper Shears Hair Studio,

Edmonton

Thalia Claveria, W.A.C. Hair Group, Markham, Ont.

Elizabeth Maximenko, Hairspray ‘N Gloss, Toronto

Michael Sauvagoet, Donato Academy of Hairstyling

and Aesthetics, Mississauga, Ont.

John Seo, Taz Hair Co., Toronto

ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST

Curtis Anweiler, Collektive Hair Inc., Edmonton

Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton

Ricardo Perdigao, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton

Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Beauty, Edmonton

Beverly Robertson, Influence Salon, Calgary

ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST

Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B.

Jelena Frolov, Chatters Hair Salon, St. John’s, N.L.

Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S.

Angela Lockert, Tangerine Hair, Charlottetown, P.E.I.

Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon & Colour Bar,

New Glasglow, N.S.

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST


Vancouver

Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond

Maki Mak, Zinc Hair, Vancouver

Karly Menzies, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo

Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver

ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST

Christopher Asta, Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough

Thelma Bento, Taz Hair Co., London

Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Qi Salon, Toronto

Palma N’Sheluvzit, The Hair Spot, Toronto

Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa

QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST

Nadia Abouwaked, Salon de Coiffure Effusion,

Montreal

Gilles-Bernard Brassard, Tonique Beauté SPA,

Chicoutimi

Jean-Sebastien Chalut, O Salon, Montreal

Geneviève Dubois, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal

Eric St-Jean, Salon Saco Laval, Laval

SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA

HAIRSTYLIST

Tara Keating, Salon Haze, Regina, Sask.

Guy Lemieux, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg

Crystal Dawn Malchuk, Hair Takers, Brandon, Man.

Josie Vilayvanh, Freelance, Winnipeg

Renn VonDyck, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg

SALON INTERIOR DESIGN

Blueberry Hair Salon and Spa, Oakville, Ont.

Dean Delmonte & Company, Toronto

Kozeta Salon, Toronto

Maison Le Drew Costello, Toronto

Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C.

JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR

COMMUNITY SERVICE

Amici Spa Inc., Markham, Ont.

Artists Salon and Spa, Newmarket, Ont.

Element Hair, Waterloo, Ont.

Salon 247, Brampton, Ont.

Storm Hair Group, St. Catharines, Ont.

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK


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SALON

PROFILE

Getting

Schooled

After 50 years in the industry, Australian

hairstylist Sharon Blain is still learning

more and always refining her craft.


from a large family of seven

children, so my siblings had no

“I’m

idea what I did for a living,” says

Sharon Blain with a laugh. With her siblings

in attendance, when she was was honoured

with a presentation that included words

from fellow hairstyling legend Vivienne

Mackinder at the 2015 Hair Expo Australia,

there was no mistaking the significant role

their sister has had on the professional hair

and beauty industry.

Salon Magazine: Why is that many people

don’t see the industry as the creative one

it is?

Sharon Blain: At the end of the day, many

people don’t see hairdressers as anything

more than hairdressers. I challenge myself

to defy the odds and do something with hair

that takes on a different medium. I look at the

craft and am always thinking about what I can

do with fabric or paper, and that often turns

to hair.

SM: So how does this transformation that’s an

art form happen for you with a collection?

SB: For the infinity collection, we started to

create the looks with hair and used spray

glue; then we cut and moulded the hair as we

wanted it to be. I worked on it for six months

before finally shooting it. It’s like an artist with

a canvas and paints. It’s creating an image like

an art form. It’s not to be worn but rather

to be creative, and hopefully my students

are excited.

SM: Who inspires your work these days?

SB: Vivienne Mackinder, for sure. Angelo

Seminara does a lot of interesting pieces. And

definitely Antoinette Beenders—I’ve always

thought she does some incredible work. For

me, the late Alexandre de Paris identified

classic work in his purest form. If you went to

his academy today, you would be learning

the sleekest work.

SM: How do you begin planning a collection

and where do you take your initial ideas?

SB: For me, Pinterest is a big thing. I spend

30 minutes each day and see what I like on

different sides, especially when I’m about to

work on a new project. Also, I take inspiration

from fashion. I can’t create a collection until

I know what they are wearing. And I always

need Italian Vogue.

SM: How did you evolve from a hairstylist

to an educator?

SB: In my early years, I was a competitive

hairstylist, so I learned a lot. These classic

skills really crossed over into everyday work

in a salon. As the years went on, I thought,

if I can train people in these skills, they can

do anything. After 43 boot camps, we are

constantly looking at how we can change

each one to make it better.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SHARON BLAIN


SM: Why did you focus on upstyling?

SB: There was a gap in the market

for hairdressing. I could always relate

to those skills of setting, teasing

and blow-drying because that was

what we did in the salon every day. I

learned those skills very early on and

I realized that I could take elements

from that and show how to do things

more simply. It’s really a no-brainer; it’s

all about breaking down a style, one

section at a time, and creating a plan.

You can’t simply go on a prayer and

a hope. I even see non-hairdressers

coming to our classes—for instance,

creative people or makeup artists

who realize that it’s helpful to have

these skills when you’re on set.

SM: How have celebrities helped

to shape the industry?

SB: It has challenged hairstylists

to learn different looks—I think

that’s why our classes are so popular.

Clients identify with certain people

who have really rocked a look,

like Jennifer Lopez and Gwen Stefani.

I think we’ve done the whole flat

ironed look and there has been

nothing really going on. I love

how all people like Kelly Osbourne

even. They have done a lot for

our industry. S


SALON

INTERIORS

Details:

Opened 2011

Design:

Henri Cleinge, architect

Space:

1,300 square feet

Team:

10 employees

8 stylist/technical stations

5 sinks

Brands:

Goldwell

Kevin Murphy

René Furterer

Website:

narcisse-echo.com

PHOTOS: LAURENT GUERIN

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca


Post-Industrial

Mood

The concept of the

post-industrial design of this

award-winning Montreal salon,

Narcisse & Echo, is a modern

interpretation of the Greek myth

of Echo and Narcissus.

By Yasmin Grothé

Co-owners Line Lebrun and Roxane Cheibes have

been working alongside for over 20 years and

have been business partners for 11. Both have a

flourishing client base but play different roles in the salon.

Cheibes is more involved in managing the floor staff and Line

takes care of running the business smoothly and efficiently.

But key decisions are always made as a close-knit team.

The architect they worked with to create the salon’s new

image loved their idea of timeless decor and he suggested

simple and sturdy materials with a raw edge and minimal

transformation, such as stainless steel, wood and the

extremely long velvet curtains that hang from the 20-footplus

ceiling. They not only add a regal, sensuous touch to the

sparse space but also help muffle sound. “Our clients always

receive a long, relaxing sinkside massage, so we needed to

create a tranquil, calming environment,” says Cheibes.

TIMELESS DECOR

The salon, which is located in a university neighbourhood,

has a contemporary art gallery vibe. “We love this space

because it’s quite versatile and very easy to transform into a

class or a photo shoot set-up; it’s more of a work studio than

a traditional salon,” says Cheibes.

A SPACE FOR ART

And even if they have less time than before to attend education

events since opening their salon, Cheibes and Lebrun make

sure they are always surrounded by creative types who love

working in this serene yet inspiring environment. S


SALON

BUSINESS

Ahead of Schedule

How do some salons staff and schedule their services

during the busy holiday season and into the slow

January slump? We’ve got the pros and cons of each

so you can make the right decision for your salon.

Cancellation Policies

PRO: While most salons don’t often need to

exercise their cancellation policies with regular

and devout clients, they’re a necessary evil

during peak times. As Timothy Kuo, co-owner

of Salon Haze in Vancouver, explains, “The

salon has a 48-hour cancellation policy for

services that are two hours or more. We

inform clients of this policy and take down

their credit card information and if they cancel

within that time or are a ‘no-show,’ we charge

them $100.” Kuo adds that it helps “weed

out clients who aren’t serious about

their appointments.”

CON: While you hope you won’t have to

use the cancellation policy, especially on your

loyal clientele, it could have repercussions if

you’re not willing to budge and deal with each

client on a case-by-case basis. If a regular

client has something come up but is willing to

reschedule within the week, consider letting

it slide instead of potentially driving away

your steady business.

Schedule Switches

PRO: With an influx of clients coming in for

colour touch-ups and pre-party hairstyles,

having some wiggle room for walk-ins and

potential new clients is always a good idea.

Kuo says, “We will extend our hours during

the holiday season and have a full staff on

the schedule every day for the two weeks

leading up to the Christmas break.”

CON: “We find some clients avoid getting

their hair done during the holiday season and

prefer to come after because it’s quieter in the

salon,” says Kuo. This helps spread out

the business more evenly into the slower

January months. While adding extra hours

during the busy season can be good for

walk-in clients, sometimes it can amount

to overstaffing. Instead of sending stylists

home or changing the schedule around, Kuo

will take this time (both in December and

January) to take advantage of doing other

things in the salon: “If there’s some downtime,

there’s always something that can be done

in the salon, such as organizing, cleaning or

practising on mannequins to improve

their skills.”

Closing Up Shop

PRO: Frédérick Russo, co-owner of Panache

in Montreal, is one of the salons that closes

for five to 10 days after the busy holiday

season. While it’s not a conventional choice,

it works for this space: “After the rush of

[the holidays], this gives our stylists a break

so they can spend more time relaxing with

friends and family.” He also adds that this

gives the salon an opportunity to take on

other projects, explaining that “by closing

just a few days in January, we can focus

on small maintenance projects like flooring

and painting, which would not be

possible otherwise.”

PRO: The downside to closing your salon

for a few days is the toll not only on business

but also on your stylists. As Russo explains,

“We noticed that a hiatus that’s too long

becomes an irritant for stylists who don’t

want the time off,” mostly because they’d

rather work and get their paycheques. He

reiterates that this is usually only possible for

smaller salons, but it also depends on how

many clients you have coming through in

the slower months.

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK


SALON

EVENTS

TIGI World Release

Details: TIGI World Release 2015 took place at the Aria Resort & Casino

in Las Vegas on August 24 and 25. This two-day event brought together

2,500 industry attendees and showed off the brand’s latest trends and cut

and colour techniques with look-and-learn education, as well as upcoming

launches and innovations. TIGI pulled out all the stops for the day-long

creative presentation, which included interpretations of each of the brand’s

lines and what they represent: Bed Head, Bed Head for Men, Catwalk,

Copyright Colour and S Factor.

When & Where: August 24 to 25 in Las Vegas

PHOTOS COURTESY OF TIGI

salonmagazine.ca november+decembernovember+december.15 may+ june.13 salon 93

SALON

EVENTS

Revlon TIFF #RevTheRedCarpet

Details: Revlon Professional, along with CND and American Crew, brought the glam to the

Toronto International Film Festival this September with #RevTheRedCarpet2015. Introducing CND’s

Aurora holiday collection and Orofluido Asia, the beauty bar and American Crew men's grooming

station left everyone feeling like a superstar.

When & Where: September 10 to September 20 in Toronto

PHOTOS COURTESY OF REVLON PROFESSIONAL

L’Oréal Professionnel Pro

Fiber Launch, Vancouver

Details: Top L’Oréal Professionnel salons came out in full force to witness

the launch of Pro Fiber, an innovative new treatment and retail hair repair

option for salons. Held at Suki’s South Granville location in Vancouver on

September 24 included a presentation and live model demo featuring

Mathieu Bouchard, director of marketing for L’Oréal Professionnel Canada

and Alicia Hamagishi, professional development manager.

When & Where: September 24 in Vancouver

PHOTOS COURTESY OF L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL


SALON

EVENTS

SALON

EVENTS

Backstage at New York Fashion

Week Spring/Summer 2016

Details: As the temperatures dip, we’re already looking ahead to the trends

of spring/summer 2016. Eufora stole the spotlight at Katie Ermilio, offering

a breath of fresh air with the chic and simple base knots created by lead

artist Mirza Batanovic to go with the designer’s athletic-inspired show. This

understated style was a trend throughout the week, demonstrated by other

designers and shows, such as Wella Professionals, Unite, Oribe, Macadamia

Professional, Moroccanoil and TIGI. To see more NYFW coverage and get

some of the runway looks, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Hair.

When & Where: September 10 to 17 in New York

PHOTOS COURTESY OF EUFORA AND WELLA PROFESSIONALS


2 Making

SALON

SCOOP

1

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY! 1It’s been 30 years since Malibu C first stepped

It’s been 30 years since Malibu C first stepped

onto the professional beauty brand stage in 1985.

Since then, the company has continued to find

nature-inspired solutions for every beauty

professional’s hair care needs with the

brand’s selection of customized

Wellness Hair Remedies.

Trevor Attenborough, former vice-president of marketing

and sales support and current president and general

manager of Kao USA, Salon Division, has been appointed

to general manager of Kao Salon Division, North America.

In this new role, he’ll be undertaking Kao’s Canadian salon

division. Mike Parsons, manager for Kao Canada, will

continue to lead sales, marketing and education.

SALON PROFESSIONALS

HELPING WOMEN

FACE CANCER

HEAD ON

Your gift of $10 will provide a

CHEMO CAP for a woman with cancer.

Donate now at lookgoodfeelbetter.ca

Changes

AGNES,

Essie has announced that Rita Remark, lead nail artist for

Essie Canada, will be taking her plethora of experience

and creative vision to the international level with her newly

appointed role as global lead educator.

This August, Luke Jacobellis, president of John Paul

Mitchell Systems for more than 25 years, announced

that Robert Cromeans would be stepping into the roles

of global artistic director and global business director for

JPMS. Cromeans will bring his proven business strategies

and innovation to the role and lead the way for JPMS.

PHOTOS: MALIBU C, KAO CANADA, ESSIE/STEFANIA YARHI,

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, KMS CALIFORNIA

3IN MEMORIAM

This September, the industry lost innovator

and KMS California founder Jamey Mazzotta.

The biochemist launched the professional hair

care company in 1976, studying the science of

hair and bringing new meaning to research and

development for hair care professionals and

their clients. Mazzotta created a legacy by

introducing the world’s first reconstructors

and non-chemical professional straighteners, changing

the hair care world with his science-backed innovations.

SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December

by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 183 Bathurst Street, Suite 202, Toronto, Ontario, M5T 2R7, Canada. US office of

publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY,

US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059.

Volume 24, Issue 15.

CANCER SURVIVOR

“While I was going through my cancer

treatment, I was determined to face

cancer head on. And thanks to Look Good

Feel Better I got the help I needed.”

Free 2-hour cosmetic and hair

workshops for women with cancer.

This fundraiser in partnership with

and

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER IS A PROGRAM OF THE CANADIAN COSMETIC, TOILETRY

AND FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION FOUNDATION | REG CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001

salonmagazine.ca november+decembernovember+december.15 may+ june.13 salon 97

SALON

BY THE NUMBERS

Survey Says

While shampoos, cleansing conditioners and the latest celebrity hair trends

are top of mind for your clients, it’s a numbers game on the road to salon

success for Canadian beauty professionals. We launched a national survey for

a snapshot of how the beauty business breaks down across the nation.

RETAILING DONE

RIGHT

41

per cent of salons

carry nail products,

including lacquer

and nail care products

83

per cent of salons

retail shampoo

80

per cent take to

and conditioner84

with

per cent carrying

multiple brands

social media to promote

their salon business

58

TECHNICALLY

SPEAKING

38

per cent of salon

staff access

technology through

smartphones

while

per cent have

tablets

88

per cent of salons have

less than 10 employees

66

SALON TEAM

per cent of salons

retail appliances

80

62

per cent indicate that

business was up in the

past year

36

per cent of salonstaff

are salary

paid employees

per cent of salons

participate in

some type of

education

19

70

per cent are in

salon training

per cent are

commission

based

BACK TO

SCHOOL

76

per cent of salon staff

attend business trade

shows, including hair

and manufacturing

trade shows

ILLUSTRATIONS: THINKSTOCK


SIZE MATTERS

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2" LONGER

USE AS CURLING IRON OR WAND

1.5"

LONGER

REGULAR SIZE PLATE

ADDED LENGTH

STYLES HAIR FASTER

FABULOUS FOR

LONG HAIR

© 2015 Helen of Troy. All rights reserved. (AW007120)

1•800•480•8832

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SALON MAGAZINE: NOVEMBER + DECEMBER 2015

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