Times of the Islands Summer 2025

TIMES
OF THE
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER 2025 NO. 151
ISLANDS
CLEARING PARADISE
Can native species still be saved?
SHARKS ARE NOT VILLAINS
Fact versus fiction
REAL ESTATE REVOLUTION
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contents
Departments
6 From the Editor
15 Getting to Know
TCI Premier C. Washington Misick
By Davidson E. Louis ~ Photos By Peter Wagner
19 What’s New?
Revolutionizing Real Estate
By Evangelia Ganosellis
24 Creature Feature
Sharks, Not Villains
Story & Photos By Kelly Currington
76 About the Islands/TCI Map
81 Subscription Form
82 Classified Ads
Feature
44 Clearing Away Paradise
Can TCI’s native species still be saved?
By Ben Stubenberg
54 Abandoned, Beached, or Wrecked?
The life and times of MV River Arc
By John Hopkins and Nicole Skakun
Green Pages
30 Creatures from the Black Lagoon
Part 3: Mutant ninja pupfish
By Dr. Eric S. Cole
35 Fins in the Field
By Danielle Backman ~ Edited by Yuqian Zhang
39 Thinking Inside the Box
By Lydia A. Harris
Astrolabe
62 Fruitless!
Failed attempts to produce salt on West Caicos
By Jeff Dodge
TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER 2025 NO. 151
On the Cover
Ramona Settle has been traveling to TCI since 1994. She’s
explored (and photographed) every island except for East
Caicos. Pelican Beach is one of her favorite places, as
evidenced by this striking photo of a conch shell discovered
there. Ramona has also written for Fodor’s Travel
guidebooks for 10 years and rents out her Leeward villa
(barefootpalmsvilla.com) when not in residence. Her
stunning images have graced the pages of our publications
for many years.
69 Run Aground
Shipwrecks of the Turks Islands (1813–1815)
By James Jenney
70 Political Trailblazer
Clarence Jolly
By Dr. Carlton Mills and Debby-Lee Mills
24
KELLY CURRINGTON
4 www.timespub.tc

from the editor
AGILE LE VIN—VISITTCI.COM
These are the flowers of the Lignum vitae, known to TCI locals back in the day as the “Tree of Life.” Although able to live as long as 300 years,
the trees’ existence is being threatened by development.
Beautiful Bush
For many years I agreed with prevailing opinion that Turks & Caicos waters are among the most beautiful on earth—
and I still do. But after a forced move into a land-locked part of Providenciales, I learned to love the “bush” too. Its
rich green hues, surprise of colorful flowers, range of satisfying smells, and the simple susurration of branches and
leaves waving in the breeze have provided solace during a rough patch of life. It amazes me with its resilience. After
hurricanes, drought, hacking, and mauling the bush always bounces back—a life lesson in hope.
For the last several months, the sounds of nature are being drowned out by the awful screech of a bulldozer as
it clears and scrapes raw the undeveloped land behind our home. The thuds of uprooting trees and shrubs feel like
the earth is screaming in protest at the destruction. The smell of damp soil—before it dries to dust—fills the air. What
next? More noise as the once-alive debris is dumped into heavy trucks that rumble past our house all day, spewing
exhaust and (more) dust and destroying the island’s sole main highway trip by trip.
Residents witness this happening across Providenciales and spreading to the other Islands. And we wonder
“Why?” Why does this country need more high-rise resorts, luxury villas, vacation rental properties, commercial
plazas, when the current infrastructure—physical and social—cannot keep up with the development already here?
Who is benefiting as more immigrants pour into Provo to fill the jobs? Do the investors care about preserving TCI’s
culture and natural heritage or are they just eager to make a profit from afar?
I am so grateful to Ben Stubenberg for penning “Clearing Away Paradise,” an important article suggested by David
Stone of the Turks & Caicos Environmental Club and illustrated by folks who believe in its tenets. It puts some of my
sentiments into words, and asks our readers to think deeply about the long-term effects of overdevelopment on this
country that has prided itself on being “Beautiful by Nature.”
Kathy Borsuk, Editor
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 431-4788
6 www.timespub.tc

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TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
MANAGING EDITOR
Kathy Borsuk
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Claire Parrish
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Danielle Backman, Kathy Borsuk, Eric S. Cole,
Kelly Currington, Jeff Dodge, Evangelia Ganosellis,
Lydia A. Harris, John Hopkins, James Jenney,
Davidson E. Louis, Carlton Mills, Debby-Lee Mills,
Nicole Skakun, Ben Stubenberg, Lisa Talbot.
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Amanyara, Estefania Arrocet—Caicos Media,
Danielle Backman, Stephen Bruns, Eric S. Cole,
Kelly Currington, Jeff Dodge, John Galleymore,
Lydia A. Harris, Heidi Hertler, John Hopkins, iStock,
Agile LeVin, Christoopher H. Martin, Marta Morton,
C.E. O’Brien, Paradise Photography, Ramona Settle,
David M. Stone, Adam P. Summers, Lisa Talbot, Turks &
Caicos Sotheby’s International Realty, Peter Wagner.
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Wavey Line Publishing.
PRINTING
PF Solutions, Miami, FL
Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is
published quarterly by Times Publications Ltd.
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No part of this publication may be
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Submissions We welcome submission of articles or photography, but
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14 www.timespub.tc

getting to know
Writer Davidson Louis (at left) recently conducted an in-depth interview with TCI Premier C.
Washington Misick. They were graciously hosted by Seven Stars Resort in the private wine room.
The Compass and the Clock
A look inside the steady vision of TCI’s Premier C. Washington Misick.
By Davidson E. Louis ~ Photos By Peter Wagner
“The Compass and the Clock” is a metaphor that Turks & Caicos Islands Premier Charles Washington
Misick lives by. It symbolizes purpose over pressure, and time guided by values.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 15

There is something so striking about TCI Premier C.
Washington Misick’s honesty. He doesn’t speak like a politician—he
doesn’t dodge, deflect, or perform. When he
speaks, you want to listen.
He hails from the “garden” island of North Caicos,
where tradition walks hand in hand with deep family
values—values that anchor every decision he makes. It
was there, in that rich soil, that he inherited not only his
father’s name—Charles—but also his unwavering moral
compass. His life has been shaped by principle, culture,
and a self-discipline that never wavers.
There’s a steady flame inside him. He pauses between
sentences and injects quotes that bring home what he
says. He has a caring nature so vivid, it’s almost blinding.
When he speaks, his low-toned voice commands attention—not
through volume, but through depth. Across the
room, he often glances at the First Lady, the sharp and
composed Delthia Misick. She is his equal. Her streetsmarts
and clarity of thought keeps him grounded, and
together, they are balance personified.
But long before politics and podiums—before titles,
appointments, and accolades—Charles Washington
Misick was simply a boy of the land. A son of subsistence.
Raised in a humble household that farmed, fished, and
survived on grit and determination, he was shaped by a
tenacious and resourceful mother. “My mother turned a
penny into a dollar,” he said. They didn’t have much, but
what they lacked in material wealth, they made up for
in resilience. From the rhythm of the tides to the grind
of dawn-to-dusk labor, his childhood instilled lessons in
fortitude long before he could define the word. It planted
a truth that would become his foundation: “Character is
built, not inherited.”
Still, what he did inherit mattered deeply. His father
wasn’t a man of speeches. He was a man of action. A
farmer, a fisherman, a provider, and all-around hero who
piloted boats between North and South Caicos, stocking
shops and feeding families. His lessons weren’t
preached—they were lived. “Do the right thing,” his father
would say. “And instinctively, we know what that is.” That
principle remains the Premier’s north star. When faced
with difficult choices, he doesn’t ask what is easy or popular—he
asks what is right.
“I didn’t have a childhood,” he says—not with bitterness,
but with the quiet clarity of someone who lived
it. “I worked from the time I could work.” There were no
idle summers, no carefree days. From early on, responsibility
was not a choice—it was a duty.
What began in the fields and on the boats evolved into
a life of service. From walking the beat as a young police
officer to eventually leading a nation, his path demanded
unshakable discipline, relentless tenacity, and a willingness
to do. Yet there is no resentment. His wife jokes
that he still works too much. But it isn’t compulsion—it’s
Writer Davidson Louis (at right) was especially struck by Premier Misick’s honesty and unwavering moral compass, shaped by his childhood
in North Caicos.
16 www.timespub.tc

First Lady Delthia Misick, sharp, composed, and clear-thinking, helps
keep Premier Misick grounded and balanced.
conviction. As one of twelve siblings, he understood early
the necessity of sharing—space, responsibilities, and sacrifice.
Those experiences shaped a man who now leads
with patience, humility, and resolve.
In the 1980s, while others rehearsed campaign
slogans, he worked behind the scenes—organizing communities,
managing elections, lifting others into the
spotlight. “I ran the PNP (Progressive National Party) campaign
in 1980 and 1984,” he says. “Even then, I didn’t see
myself as a leader. I saw myself as a facilitator.” But when
duty called in 1988, he stepped forward—not for power,
but for service.
His vision for Turks & Caicos is clear and unapologetically
bold: a dignified nation, a self-confident people, and
institutions that will outlast his lifetime. He doesn’t seek
praise or monuments saying, “Write on my tomb: He was
an institution builder.” In a political world obsessed with
credit, he is chasing impact.
Washington Misick is a visionary, his gaze fixed firmly
on the future. He dreams not only of economic sus-
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Times of the Islands Summer 2025 17

tainability but of intellectual and spiritual elevation. “A
self-confident people. A self-confident country,” he says.
There’s an urgency in his voice when he calls on Turks &
Caicos Islanders to return home and contribute—to put
their hard-earned skills to work in this long, bright race
toward a better nation. Whatever path you take—whatever
role you play—he urges all Turks & Caicos Islanders
to think beyond the moment. To resist the pull of instant
gratification and short-term gain, and instead focus on
building the country they want to see two decades from
now. A country grounded in dignity, self-reliance, and
unity. For the Premier, progress isn’t measured by headlines
or popularity, but by the legacy we leave behind.
He calls to work with purpose—for the Turks & Caicos of
tomorrow.
He is leading monumental reforms. Institutional
amendments aimed at better equipping both the country
and its citizens. At the same time, he remains a lifelong
learner. Today, he is completing a dissertation in international
commercial law—not for prestige, but because
knowledge still excites him.
He sees the cracks, too—overcrowded classrooms,
economic disparity, and a growing disconnect between
children and tradition. “Too many parents have too many
jobs,” he says—not with blame, but with empathy. The
economy has changed. The country must evolve with it.
The First Lady emphasized that parents are equal partners
in this journey—just as vital as teachers—in shaping the
minds and values of the next generation. She reminded
us that learning doesn’t end at the classroom door; it
continues around the dinner table, during bedtime conversations,
and in the quiet moments of presence. Family
time carries profound, often underestimated value.
When asked about culture, the Premier reflected that
it is never static. It’s not just the straw hat or the church
pew. It’s alive. Evolving. “Culture,” he says, “is everything
around you.” His message is clear: know who you are, and
stay rooted even as you grow.
Today, he straddles many roles—father, scholar,
leader. What does he do for joy? He reads. He explores.
His idea of rest is rooted in curiosity. For someone who’s
always had to climb, the pursuit of knowledge is the purest
form of peace.
To understand the Premier is to understand the nation
he envisions: self-made, unyielding, thoughtful. A place
where tradition meets progress. Where people know
where they came from—and aren’t afraid of where they’re
going. The past doesn’t weigh him down. It grounds him.
It’s ballast, not burden. His eyes are always on the horizon.
From hard-earned experience, he leaves us with a powerful
metaphor: learn to distinguish between the compass
and the clock. The compass represents our values, our
calling, our purpose. The clock, our time. And only when
we align the two can we truly move forward.
Faith, too, has always been a guiding force. As a boy,
he rose before dawn to pray with his father—a ritual he
once resisted but now cherishes. Today, faith is his compass.
His brother Ariel remains a trusted confidant. His
wife, his unwavering partner.
The Premier of the Turks & Caicos Islands is more than
a title. He is a man shaped by grit, prayer, and perseverance.
He speaks softly—but builds boldly. He’s not
chasing glory. He’s chasing good. And while the world
often confuses the two, he never has.
That might be the rarest kind of leadership. a
18 www.timespub.tc

what’s new?
Joe Zahm, president of
Turks & Caicos Sotheby’s
International Realty, was
the driving force behind
the company’s new Epic
Theater. It features a massive
16- x 9-foot screen
using 3-D technology. It
allows real estate buyers,
sellers, and developers to
visualize properties and
projects in unprecedented
detail.
Revolutionizing Real Estate
Turks & Caicos Sotheby’s International Realty
offers an EPIC theater experience.
By Evangelia Ganosellis ~ Photos Courtesy Turks & Caicos Sotheby’s International Realty
In the ever-evolving world of luxury real estate, first impressions are everything. Whether it’s a breathtaking
ocean view from a villa terrace or the exquisitely designed entrance to a residential resort, the initial
experience can shape a buyer’s entire perception.
Making that moment memorable is crucial—because when it comes to luxury properties in Turks &
Caicos, there is no second chance to make a first impression. To make that first impression an impactful
one, Turks & Caicos Sotheby’s International Realty (TCSIR) has just set a new standard with the unveiling
of Epic Theater, a groundbreaking real estate platform and one of only two in the world, at their flagship
office in Grace Bay.
Scan here to watch the
YouTube video.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 19

Imagine stepping into a space where you can immerse
yourself in the Turks & Caicos real estate market without
having to drive around, hop a ferry, or catch a flight
to another island. At the heart of this experience is a
massive 16– x 9–foot wall screen, powered by EV virtual
reality technology. This innovation allows buyers, sellers,
and developers to visualize properties and projects in
unprecedented detail, dramatically reducing search times
for clients and allowing agents and brokers the opportunity
to tour properties in a way never done before.
But Epic Theater is not just a viewing experience.
Above all, it’s a strategic tool designed to enhance decision-making,
whether you're a developer showcasing a
new project, a seller aiming to optimize a listing, or a
buyer seeking the perfect fit. With interactive 3-D mapping,
MLS integration, and immersive presentations, Epic
Theater is transforming how the real estate industry operates
in Turks & Caicos.
To delve deeper into this visionary project, we sat
down with industry leader Joe Zahm, president of TCSIR
and the driving force behind Epic Theater. In this Q&A,
Joe shares his insights on how this innovative platform is
redefining real estate interactions, fostering community
connections. and solidifying TCSIR’s leadership in the
market.
What inspired the creation of the Epic Theater?
In March 2022, I attended the grand opening of my friend
Tye Stockton’s new Vail, Colorado office. He introduced
what was called Immersion Theatre. He had a 16– x
9–foot screen representing the Vail village in a way that
completely blew me away. It was everything that I had
in my head about my 30+ year career in Turks & Caicos,
demonstrated through 3D technology and virtual reality.
I felt compelled to pursue it at all costs. Fortunately,
my partners Nina Siegenthaler (vice president) and
Epic Theater combines interactive 3-D mapping, MLS integration, and immersive presentations to enhance decision-making and save time. It
is one of only two such real estate platforms in the world.
20 www.timespub.tc

Richard Sankar (director and broker) offered their unwavering
support in bringing Epic Theater to Turks & Caicos.
With Nina being a leader of the ultra-luxury home market
and Richard being a mentor of our agents, their support
in bringing this project to life was critical. And of course
our General Manager Denise Douglas executed all the
details beautifully, as usual.
For someone walking into the new Experience Center
for the first time, what can they expect to see and feel?
The visceral and visual impact of Epic Theater is second
to none due to the combination of having virtual technology
bring things to life and the vast screen size. When a
person comes into our theater, they’re now able to get an
incredible macro-view of the Islands in a very short time.
They’re also able to drill down on individual properties
and see interiors as close to reality as possible.
How does Epic Theater represent the future of real
estate in Turks & Caicos?
I believe this is such a game changer primarily because
it’s such a time saver. Our jurisdiction has a commonality
with Vail in that we are high-end vacation markets. Since
the average length of stay on a vacation is five to seven
days, people have to be efficient in their shopping.
A potential purchaser comes into our office and let’s
say they’re looking at eight properties. Instead of spending
a day driving around the island, ruling four places
out, they can do that in 15 minutes here. It truly is an
incredible time saver. And because of the large screen,
it’s much easier to learn. The engagement level is very
high, and people can comprehend and absorb information
quicker and more effectively.
I’m grateful that developers are also finding Epic
Theater to be the ultimate “Don’t tell me, show me”
tool. Their support has been invaluable, specifically The
Strand, South Bank, The Point by Grace Bay Resorts, Villas
at Blue Mountain, M-House by Beach Enclave, Ambergris
Cay, Idyll East, Sailrock on South Caicos. Their belief in
this project has been a vital force in making this transition
possible.
How do you see this tool transforming the way
developers market their projects?
First, I think it helps developers and their team understand
the product better. We've had multiple examples of
having developers in Epic Theater coming up with ideas
to increase strengths and mitigate weaknesses within
their products.
It also brings to life new developments. Instead of buying
from a one-dimensional plan on a sheet of paper or
looking at their phone, a laptop, or a tablet, buyers are
able to come into the theater and see the new development
come to life on a big screen. There is a dedicated
app that allows us to look at inventories, square footages,
floor plan layout, amenity set, interior and exterior animation—everything.
How can sellers benefit from having their property
featured in the Epic Theater experience?
Our property owners who are interested in selling come
into Epic and feel valued that we have made such a significant
investment to showcase their property in such an
impactful way. They also understand that when we have
serious prospects here shopping, this is a far better way
for us to make an impact with a potential purchaser than
linking a listing or a website, for example.
In what ways does the platform help secure a hesitant
buyer or showcase occupied rental properties that
can’t be easily toured?
We had a purchaser at an important development of ours
who had made a decision to buy a particular property.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 21

They wanted to meet with me over the weekend to not
only look at the property again, but also browse other
options. We were prepared to drive them to three other
properties and developments in Provo. But first we sat
with them in the Epic Theater, and within 15 minutes,
they ruled out those other developments or properties.
Then they upgraded to a larger villa! Something that
would have taken hours and days and weeks, we did in 90
minutes—and the only thing left to do was to buy them a
bottle of Champagne for their anniversary.
One unique aspect is the 3D mapping that shows the
full Turks & Caicos archipelago. How does that help
buyers make more informed decisions?
I think for a new visitor or buyer, it takes awhile to get
your feet under you. There’s the saying “Losing the forest
for the trees.” When you’re in the “forest,” you don't have
a macro understanding of where you are. What knocked
me out when I saw Tye's presentation in Vail was that
although I had lived in, skied, and visited Colorado, it
was the first time I really understood it on a macro, geographic
level.
How does this new platform align with your broader
strategy to grow market share and cement TCSIR’s
leadership in the region?
We’ve been an industry leader for a long time. When
you’re in a leadership position, people catch up. When
I saw this technology in action, I thought: This is our
future. I felt it was going to be a real game changer in
our jurisdiction because we’re a project-driven country.
How has Epic Theater affected communication and
learning within the TCSIR team?
This is the most fantastic learning tool. When we have
our team meetings, when we have deep dives on products,
introductions to listings, the engagement level of
our team is 10 out of 10. We’ve been able to create a
dynamism with regard to our own internal communication,
which has led to greater learning and empowerment
of our people.
Are there any collaborations planned with tourism or
industry partners to expand its reach?
We are already collaborating with other businesses. We
recently did a Beta test of a market report and I had
Grace Bay Resorts COO/Principal Nikheel Advani come
in. He and I had a conversation about the relationship
between tourism and real estate and the impact the post-
COVID era has had on average price and room rate. We
also work with developers, architects, and designers to
have a design showcase and feature various players in
the industry.
To foster strong community connections, we’ve
already hosted United Way and kids from local schools
in the space, and plan to continue hosting groups and
events as Epic Theater evolves. We intend to use this not
just for business, but also in the industry and community.
TCSIR President Joe Zahm, visionary of Epic Theater, demonstrates its amazing features to members of his team.
22 www.timespub.tc

How do you envision this evolving over time?
This project will never be done! It is an organic work in
progress in concert with the evolution of Turks & Caicos.
We have new projects to activate, projects under construction,
and completed projects that transition from
rendered to real. We have other islands, like the apps
for Sailrock on South Caicos and Ambergris Cay. We’re
going to be modeling exclusive neighborhoods and singular
trophy homes as well.
What’s been the most exciting part of developing Epic
Theater for you personally?
Actually getting it done. This was not an easy project
because we’re the first client for this. Whenever you’re
the first one, you’re learning as you go along. Tye became
the vendor providing Epic Theater to us. It’s been incredibly
rewarding on a personal level because it really has
contextualized and demonstrated my career here.
Turks & Caicos real estate is there for you on a big
screen, and you’re able to go by project, by neighborhood,
by individual listing, by history—all connected to
the MLS in real time. It’s been amazing to synthesize,
integrate, and then present in such a dynamic way.
I’m grateful for Nina and Richard’s continued support
as Epic Theater grows and evolves. They’ve not only
shared in my excitement, but also continue to prove its
value in our day-to-day business—and we all can’t wait to
see what comes next for Epic Theater. Our theater and
tech is epic, and we are showcasing an epic destination,
lifestyle, properties, and experiences. a
Turks & Caicos Sotheby’s International Realty (TCSIR) is
the premier luxury real estate brokerage firm. It boasts
a profound track record and significant foothold in all
market segments, particularly new development and
trophy properties. TCSIR is the go-to resource for developers,
investors, home buyers, and sellers in this highly
sought-after destination. With strong leadership backed
by the world’s greatest international luxury real estate
brand and a strong team of agents, TCSIR is influential
in both the local community as well as the greater real
estate industry worldwide.
The firm’s signature office is ideally located in
uptown Grace Bay with satellite offices at Grace Bay
Club, The Palms, Point Grace, and South Bank. For more
information visit www.turksandcaicossir.com, email
info@tcsothebysrealty.com or call (649) 946-4474.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 23

creature feature
Opposite page: In spite of media fear-mongering, sharks are vitally necessary for a balanced marine ecosystem. An apex predator like this
Caribbean reef shark helps to maintain species diversity and genetically healthy prey populations.
Above: It is a rare and wonderful treat to see a Great Hammerhead shark in Turks & Caicos waters.
Sharks, Not Villains
Facts versus fiction when it comes to sharks.
Story & Photos By Kelly Currington
Fifty shades of turquoise; this is one of the first sights everyone sees as they fly into the Turks & Caicos
Islands. There are so many variations of aqua and emerald that it can’t be described with words—you
have to see it for yourself. Before your plane has landed, you can imagine immersing yourself in those
colors, whether it be snorkeling, scuba diving, or just hanging out in the water. It’s one of the biggest
attractions bringing hundreds of thousands of visitors each year.
As a dive professional, one of the questions I hear quite frequently is “Are there sharks here”? This
question is derived from society’s conditioning by news, media, and movies to fear sharks, using a tactic
called “fear mongering.” They use buzz words like “lurking,’ “infested,” “vicious,” and “attack” to describe
sharks living in their natural habitat. It incites instant emotion when you hear those words. Media also
uses very carefully edited images and videos with dramatic music to increase the emotional fear reaction.
This is done solely to gain exposure for their stories, and it has nothing to do with facts.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 25

There has been a lot of attention lately on a few
incidents involving sharks here in the Turks & Caicos,
so I want to talk about facts and expose the fiction. I’ll
start with the obvious—sharks inhabit all oceans on the
planet and have been around for about 450 million years,
but not all species inhabit every ocean. The shark species
indigenous to TCI waters are mainly Nurse sharks
(not to be confused with the Grey Nurse shark or Sand
Tiger shark), Lemon sharks, Caribbean reef sharks, Tiger
sharks, and a Great Hammerhead now and then, and that
last one is such a treat when it happens. That being said,
other species may occasionally be present because there
are no boundaries or nets in the wild.
For me, one of the most important facts is that sharks
are vitally necessary for a balanced ecosystem. When you
have a healthy and diverse shark population, it is a sign
that the ecosystem is functioning properly. The sharks
wouldn’t thrive if their natural food source (no, humans
are not their food source) wasn’t plentiful, and their food
source’s food source wasn’t plentiful, and so on, right
down to the tiniest living organisms, starting with the
coral beds.
How do these apex predators help keep the ecosystem
balanced? They keep other predators in check,
maintaining species diversity. They remove weak and
sick prey, helping to keep those populations genetically
healthy, which is crucial for balance.
Blue Carbon is the carbon stored in the oceans, and
sharks that inhabit coastal waters help enhance blue
carbon by hunting and patrolling reefs and sea grass pastures
eating dead matter. Plant-eating fish can over-graze
ocean vegetation, like sea grass and kelp forests that are
crucial for carbon absorption through photosynthesis.
This causes a negative impact on the carbon cycle. Oceans
are Earth’s largest absorber of atmospheric carbon and
sea grass can capture it up to 34 times faster than tropical
rainforests, storing large amounts of that carbon for
decades. A healthy population of coastal sharks who hunt
and remove these fish helps to minimize excessive grazing—a
positive force in balancing the carbon cycle.
With all the scientific proof that our climate is
changing and growing warmer, maintaining the ecological
balance and resilience of the oceans is critical for
withstanding and minimizing the damage that extreme
climate events can cause. Sharks play a vital role in the
success of this process.
Are humans on the menu when sharks are deciding
what to have for dinner? Let’s talk about what sharks’
natural food sources are. Though it varies by species,
most include fish, cephalopods like squid and octopus,
and crustaceans like lobster and crab. Humans . . . NOT.
In addition to the common food sources, some species
have a specialty menu item that they were built to
hunt. For example, Tiger sharks’ teeth are designed to
saw through sea turtle shells, Hammerhead sharks are
designed to hunt stingrays and other bottom dwelling
food, and Nurse sharks are designed for crushing and
have a powerful suction that makes them great at hunting
Some shark species have a special food source they were built to hunt. This Tiger shark’s teeth are designed to saw through sea turtle shells.
26 www.timespub.tc

Lemon sharks are known to inhabit shallow coastal waters where people also swim, surf, and dive. While they are not inherently aggressive,
it’s important to maintain caution and respect their space, especially when they are in their preferred habitat like shallow coral reefs.
crustaceans and conch, and sucking fish from the crevices
in coral.
Inland sharks, like the species common in the Turks
& Caicos, will generally swim away from humans and
keep their distance as long as there is no natural food
source present. Hundreds of thousands of people enter
the water here to snorkel, dive, paddleboard, kayak, kite
surf, and frolic, and never have a negative experience
with a shark. That is so important to remember if an incident
occurs and the media sensationalizes it.
Here in the Turks & Caicos, any time there is an
encounter with a shark that involves a bite it is either
a defensive bite, investigative bite, or mistaken identity
bite. A defensive bite means that a human was in some
way violating the shark’s space, touching the shark,
or harassing the shark. An investigative bite generally
means the shark is testing to see if an object is food,
and the only way they can feel is with their mouths. A
mistaken identity bite can happen if the signals the shark
is receiving are telling it there is food nearby, and if you
are in water where fish are being cleaned or have been
cleaned recently, the shark could bite thinking you are
the source of those signals.
When you visit a new location, it is important to
assess the risks before entering the water. One of the
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 27

Above: Nurse sharks have several rows of short, serrated teeth used for crushing hard shells like conch. Although they are considered docile,
they can inflict injuries if provoked. The simple rule of not touching or harassing any wildlife will go a long way in ensuring safety in the water.
Below: This frontal view of a Great Hammerhead shark “hammers” home the reason for its descriptive name.
best ways to do this is to talk
to locals or professionals who
know the area well. Ask questions.
Because sharks inhabit
all oceans, understanding their
abundance, behavior, and how
to safely interact with them is
crucial. Each species reacts differently
to divers, snorkelers,
and swimmers. Knowing what
species you may encounter
allows you to learn more about
their habits and reduce your risk
of a negative encounter.
We have all seen the videos
on TV and social media of
people handling and feeding
different species of sharks, and
the misconception is “If they can
do it, I can do it.” The truth is
that the professionals you see
in footage have years of expe-
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rience in handling sharks and knowing how to safely
interact with them. They understand shark behavior and
feeding habits, and have had specialized training. There
are always people who attempt to touch or feed sharks
who have zero experience, and the outcome is often
not what they expected. This is happening more since
posting everything someone does on social media has
become the norm, just to gain views and followers.
The lure of the mesmerizing turquoise water is
strong, but that doesn’t mean it’s an open invitation without
some “fine print” you should understand. It is our
responsibility as humans to protect and safeguard the
oceans, because in the “Big Picture” of life on our planet,
sharks are not the villains, humans are—desecrating their
numbers at a rate of over 100 million a year. This is a
scary reality that we need to work on changing and recovering
from.
Our beautiful waters depend on healthy reefs, which
depend on healthy shark populations. These remarkable
creatures have survived five major mass extinction
events, outliving dinosaurs, proving their resilience, and
claiming a necessary role in our oceans matched by no
other creature. Here is a profound statement I read: “In
reality, they (sharks) are curious guardians patrolling and
protecting the precious balance of their ocean home.”
Their presence and vital role in the oceans can go
unnoticed and unappreciated when they are portrayed by
the media as man-eating, aggressive killers, lurking in
wait to attack humans. This is something many organizations
are working on changing.
One of the biggest misconceptions involves nurse
sharks. People describe them with words like “puppies”
and “friendly,” and the most concerning one, “harmless.”
This gives people a false sense of safety, and many try to
touch, pet, or even worse, grab them by their tail and pull
them from their resting place during the day! No shark
is harmless, and if provoked or threatened will rightfully
defend themselves. Nurse sharks don’t have conventional
“shark” teeth, they have several rows of short, serrated
teeth used for crushing the hard shells around conch and
hermit crabs. Although docile in nature, that does not
mean Nurse sharks cannot inflict serious injuries if provoked.
The simple rule of not touching or harassing any
wildlife will go a long way in avoiding trouble.
So go out and enjoy this Beautiful By Nature paradise.
The Turks & Caicos waters are safe when you enter with
respect. This will help ensure your chances of having a
negative shark experience are slim to none. a
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Department of Environment & Coastal Resources
web www.gov.tc/decr/
ERIC S. COLE
This saltwater (Anchialine) pond on East Caicos is surrounded by mangroves and fed by a saltwater cavern. It provides refuge and habitat to
a host of marine species rarely seen along the open coast or in the back-reef environment.
Creatures from the
Black Lagoon #3
Mutant ninja pupfish.
By Dr. Eric S. Cole
Most residents and visitors to the Turks & Caicos Islands are naturally drawn to their magnificent beaches
and open waters. A few rare and restless souls explore the more remote—and perhaps less inviting—
inland marine ponds. These “Anchialine” ponds are unique in that they provide refuge and habitat to a
host of marine species rarely seen along the open coast or in the back-reef environment. Many of the
ponds are served by now-famous underwater caverns, subterranean openings that access a labyrinth of
saltwater chambers ultimately connecting many of these ponds to the sea. Evidence of such connections
are the daily tides that raise and lower the inland ponds, creating currents that draw a snorkeler towards
the cave entrance, or push them away. (These are easily avoided).
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Though each pond is unique—ranging from orange, hypersaline replicas of the Dead Sea to animal-rich “aquaria”
full of wonderful sea life—one tiny charismatic fish seems almost ubiquitous, inhabiting even the smallest of permanent
ponds. This is the “Pupfish.”
These Pupfish (Cyprinodon variegatus) are also known as “sheepshead minnows” (though any resemblance
to something ovine escapes the author). As with many fish, the males are colorful and females are cryptic, cam-
JOHN GALLEYMORE
Above: A) The red arrows point to our snorkel team exploring the waters around an underwater cavern that connects this pond to the sea.
B) and C) These photos show the entrances to Anchialine caverns serving some of the TCI ponds.
ouflaged to escape notice by
passing predators. Males display
an inverted chevron of
colorful scales on their heads,
metallic silvery blue or green.
Having hovered over these little
charmers, I believe they
exercise control over their
display, “dimming” the iridescent
glow when frightened
and “brightening” it when all is
clear. I have wondered if they
erect these scales to produce
their neon display, and flatten
them to diminish it. The males
find a special place to show
their stuff (their “Lek”). A patch
of algae will do. Then they turn
on the charm and attempt to dazzle passing females.
Pupfish are described as detritivores, nibbling any
edible organic matter (plant or animal) that falls within
their reach. In my experience, they are also opportunistic
piranha, not at all shy once they get used to your presence.
Above: A) These Pupfish (and a few introduced Mosquitofish) are making a picnic of the author’s
hand. B) Some junior naturalists receive a pupfish pedicure.
The ponds that decorate the Turks & Caicos as well
as other islands in the Lucayan Archipelago have only
been in existence for 10,000 years. Before that, much of
our sea water was locked within great glacial ice masses,
so that the islands were elevated on high, dry platforms
flanked by steep cliffs that plunged into the ancient seas.
ERIC S. COLE
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 31

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ERIC S. COLE
Above: A) A lone male is “displaying” over his Lek: a patch of algae in one of our local ponds. B) This male has managed to attract three
interested females. C) Here, a phalanx of colorful males “lekking” for a cohort of females (blue arrow). D) This iridescent silvery male is
about to get lucky.
The island ponds we see today did not exist then.
Within these recently-emerged ponds, scientists have
found evidence of extraordinarily rapid evolution in
everything from sea horses to pearl oysters and even our
darling pupfish. Something about the relative isolation of
these ponds and their highly variable conditions creates
a laboratory of rapid evolution, natural experiments in
accelerated adaptation.
On the neighboring Bahamian Platform, and specifically
on the island of San Salvador, something remarkable
has been happening to the resident pupfish. The normal
pupfish (casually grazing on organic debris and algae)
Above: A) This is the “wildtype” pupfish from which the mutant forms arose. B) Three new species of pupfish emerged in a geologic heartbeat.
Top panel: the wildtype; middle panel: a “scale eater” with its extended jaw; bottom panel: a “snail eater” with thickened jaws.
FROM THE LABORATORY OF CHRISTOPHER H. MARTIN (U.C. BERKELEY)
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fish into something of a cannibal. Cyprinodon variegatus
gave rise to C. desquamator, “the scale eater.” Scale eaters
deserve special attention.
Rather than swimming over algal beds and between
mangrove roots, daintily nibbling at bits of detritus, desquamator
has become an ambush, hit-and-run attack
artist. Scale-eaters lie immobile in the algal beds, waiting
for other fish to swim into view (a resident pupfish or
mosquitofish). They move innocuously from their resting
place, drift harmlessly towards their sibling species,
and strike. The lower jaw seems almost disarticulated as
it reaches low on the prey’s flank to carve off a mouthful
of scales. Professor Chris Martin’s laboratory (U.C.
Berkeley) has captured these attacks with high-speed
video.
COURTESY ANTHONY TERCEIRA
COURTESY CHRISTOPHER MARTIN
Above: A) These photos depict the differences between the “wildtype” and “scale-eater’”pupfish. B) This scale-eater is attacking another
pupfish. C) These illustrations compare the wildtype and scale-eater pupfish with its altered jaw.
COURTESY CHRISTOPHER MARTIN
COURTESY CHRISTOPHER MARTIN
has radiated into a swarm of new species—a “species
flock.” Three species have emerged in a geologic heartbeat,
all co-existing within a few local ponds. In one, the
pupfish jaws became reinforced into crushing mouthparts,
and its diet expanded to include an abundance
of hard-shelled crustaceans and snails (C. brontotheroides).
One can imagine pupfish becoming isolated in a
pond with an unusual abundance of hard-shelled prey,
and perhaps a dearth of softer food. Mutations allowing
these fish to exploit the resident hard-bodied prey would
sweep this miniature, in-breeding population creating
differences that would later, upon rejoining the broader
population, maintain their isolation as separate species.
An equally dramatic set of mutations occurred within
this same species flock, transforming the common pup-
Above: Micro CT-scans of pupfish jaws compare A) “normal” jaws with B) scale-eater’s modified (“mutant”) jaws, a bit terrifying up close.
Videos of scale-eater attacks on other pupfish (from Chris Martin’s lab):
https://adaptiveradiation.smugmug.com/Fieldwork/Bahamas-2017/i-TmvF3BS
https://adaptiveradiation.smugmug.com/Fieldwork/Bahamas-2017/i-2w5cz3L
https://adaptiveradiation.smugmug.com/Fieldwork/Bahamas-2017/i-bjz4bjZ
Video (high-speed) showing jaw in slow-motion action: (Courtesy of Professor Chris Martin):
https://static-movie-usa.glencoesoftware.com/mp4/10.1242/584/f89ba747d96127161a5f3f9ac893869ab695ee48/JEB247615.MovieS1.mp4
ADAM P. SUMMERS
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 33

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Protecting, Preserving, and
Restoring the Coral Reefs of the TCI
It must be disconcerting to be a “normal” pupfish
sharing a pond with these scale-eating assault artists. One
wonders how this species evolved, as there have clearly
been dramatic changes in morphology as well as behavior.
It may be difficult to be impressed by what seem like
subtle changes in the dental work of a tiny fish. An image
captured using micro-CT (a miniature version of a medical
CAT scanner) has allowed scientists Drs. Chris Martin and
Adam Summers to drive home the fearsome appearance
of the scale-eater’s newly evolved oral armature.
The “flock” of pupfish species that have emerged
within a series of small inland ponds in The Bahamas,
has launched numerous laboratory investigations while
raising the possibility that rapid evolution may also be
happening within the Turks & Caicos populations. The
Come visit our Coral Growing Facility
and get your TCRF merchandise!
Located at South Bank Marina.
We are open 1-5pm
Monday - Friday
Rashguards, Stickers, BCD tags and more!
All proceeds go to our environmental
projects in TCI.
This image shows a scale-eater pupfish skull face-on.
TCI has hundreds of small ponds and pools, most of them
occupied by these charismatic preeners. No one has yet
paid close attention to discover whether within these isolated
populations there might be a similar mutant-species
flock. On our next visit, my team will pay closer attention
to these deceptively modest residents, looking for evolutionary
innovations within this highly mutable species.
The more time one spends visiting these precious
habitats, the more one comes to appreciate their fragility,
and the unique community of creatures that they each
harbor. If these articles inspire you to explore, enter each
pond gently, and if possible, without sun lotion. A longsleeved
shirt and neck gaiter provide ample protection
from the sun and even a bit of warmth while swimming,
and they protect the pond’s inhabitants from a noxious
cloud of toxic irritants. a
ADAM P. SUMMERS
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Clockwise from top: Students from The School for Field Studies on South Caicos prepare to conduct an underwater transect survey at “The
Arch” dive site. A student plants corals at Admiral’s Aquarium. A student drills holes for corals to be placed inside.
DANIELLE BACKMAN HEIDI HERTLER
Fins in the Field
Marine research for our changing climate.
By Danielle Backman, Waterfront and Program Assistant
Edited by Yuqian Zhang, Ph.D., Resident Lecturer in Marine Conservation Governance
The School for Field Studies, Center for Marine Resource Studies, South Caicos
For over 40 years, The School for Field Studies (SFS) has been transforming lives by inspiring students to
become global thinkers and environmental leaders. With 12 Centers across 6 continents, students receive
a transformative, place-based education by exploring social and ecological dimensions of complex environmental
problems faced by our local partners and contributing to sustainable solutions.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 35

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To test the “Graveyard Hypothesis,” Dr. C.E. O’Brien places freshly harvested
conch into a pile around which live queen conch will be placed.
Located on the island of South Caicos is one of The
School for Field Studies’ original programs. For over three
decades, The School for Field Studies Center for Marine
Resource Studies (CMRS) has focused on key environmental
issues like biodiversity conservation, environmental
policy, and fisheries. Our ongoing research plays an
important role in supporting Turks & Caicos residents
and government authorities as they work to balance economic
need with the preservation of irreplaceable natural
resources.
During our Spring 2025 semester (January–May), 32
students from colleges and universities across the United
States dove into the world of marine conservation, first
building knowledge and field skills in Marine Resource
Management, Tropical Marine Ecology, and Marine
Conservation Governance courses. The skills learned
were put to further practice in the second half of the
semester during eight faculty-led directed research projects.
Through one month of data collection in the field,
supported by a team of waterfront staff, our students
contributed to valuable research for the South Caicos
community. Students documented their research in a
final report and presented their findings to South Caicos
residents in a community-engagement talk.
First, we dove in to check on South Caicos’ corals
and fish. This project assesses coral health status and
fish diversity at four sites and two depths in the Admiral
Cockburn Land and Sea National Park, near the bank of
South Caicos. This data is collected through underwater
fish surveys, coral assessments, and benthic (ocean floor)
assessments, then analyzed using CPCe. Over the past 10
years, this long-term South Caicos benthic assessment
has been providing knowledge for monitoring effects of
climate change, environmental health, and preparing for
restoration efforts.
Through careful assessments of the effects of climate
change on our coral reef communities around South
Caicos, we have taken action to help our reefs by outplanting
coral fragments. Sponsored by Salterra, our Coral
Gardening team outplanted a total of 360 coral fragments
at three locations over a one-month period. This involves
some underwater “gardening” with specialized equipment
(including an underwater drill—how cool)!
We are also monitoring previously outplanted corals
for survival and growth on dive/snorkel surveys, then
analyzing images using ImageJ. Our goal is to assess the
effectiveness of outplants in this early-stage coral restoration
effort on South Caicos. Little by little, we do make
a difference in the conservation of our reefs.
One creature that greatly benefits from our actions is
the elusive octopus. Our “Octopop” group is diving into
the mysterious world of Octopus insularis and assessing
population ecology around South Caicos. We look
at population density, diet, and habitat type in relation
to number of predators (eel, carnivorous fishes, sharks,
rays) and other octopuses. Our group deploys underwater
video cameras or OMGs (Octopus Monitoring Gadgets)
and analyzes the video, then categorizes and measures
dens while collecting items from middens (piles of leftover
octopus food) during snorkel/dive surveys at various
sites around South Caicos. This valuable research contributes
to the sparse information that researchers currently
have on O. insularis in the Northern Hemisphere and provides
crucial information on the diversity of marine life in
the Turks & Caicos Islands.
One well-known economically and culturally significant
marine creature here in South Caicos is the queen
conch (Aliger gigas). Our “Grave Conch-cerns” group
tested the “Graveyard Hypothesis” which suggests the
presence of discarded queen conch shells from fishermen
drives live conch from an area. This is tested by
collecting, measuring, and tagging conch and placing
them in a circle around various stimuli (old conch shells,
freshly harvested conch, and rocks as a control) then
measuring how far the conch move from each stimulus.
This research will support fisheries management and
conservation of the beloved queen conch.
DANIELLE BACKMAN
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Another well-known and
economically and culturally
significant creature inhabiting
the reefs of South Caicos
is the Caribbean spiny lobster
(Panulirus argus). To
support the crucial lobster
fishery, the TCI Department
of Fisheries & Marine
Resources
Management
(DFMRM) placed lobster
“casitas” or “condos” at
various sites off the coast
of South Caicos. We are
assessing the effectiveness
of these artificial lobster
“condos” in sustaining their
surrounding habitat and
evaluating their ecological
impact. This is done by carefully
catching lobster, then
tagging, weighing, identifying
sex and maturity, and
assessing injuries. Over one
month, our “Casitas” group
caught and tagged nearly
1,000 lobsters. The information
gathered is crucial for
the DFMRM to make management
decisions that will
sustain the lobster fishery.
It’s understood that
marine creatures like conch
and lobster are important to
the South Caicos economy,
but have you ever wondered
how much a coastline is worth? Our “Coastal Ecosystem
Service Assessment and Mapping” group conducts drone
and in-water transect surveys at various coastal locations
around South Caicos. This data is combined with interviews
of community members on their perception of local
coastal ecosystem value. Data from these three field methods
is combined to determine the total economic value of
coastal ecosystems in South Caicos and provide important
information for sustainable development planning.
One of the main sources of tourism on the South
Caicos coastline is bonefishing, as the island is adjacent
From top: Perched outside its “casita” in “The Lake” is a Caribbean spiny lobster.
Students and Dr. Yuqian Zhang survey the benthic (underwater) composition at Jerry Camp.
to the largest continuous flat system in the Atlantic—
an environment dominated by bonefish. The “Bonefish
Ecology” team spent many hours fly fishing at various
locations just offshore. We investigate individual bonefish
diet through catching, tagging, measuring, and releasing.
We also study bonefish movement patterns, abundance,
and habitat preference using drone transect surveys. This
research explores sustainable ecotourism opportunities
in South Caicos and hopes to bolster the local economy
as bonefishing becomes a larger draw to the Turks &
Caicos Islands.
DR. STEPHAN BRUNS DANIELLE BACKMAN
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DR. STEPHAN BRUNS
The “Baited Remote Underwater Video System” captured this screenshot of four eagle rays in the Admiral Cockburn Land & Sea National Park.
Yet attraction to South Caicos for tourism is the plentiful
megafauna in our marine protected areas. Sharks,
rays, turtles, and whales are regular visitors around here
—but how do we protect their habitats for generations
to come? Our “Baited Remote Underwater Video System”
(BRUVS) team is investigating the effectiveness of the
Admiral Cockburn Land and Sea National Park, a marine
protected area just off the coast of our community. Our
team deployed 50 BRUVS with various bait types at different
depths inside the national park. Through careful
review of each GoPro video, the team assessed species
diversity, richness, and relative abundance of elasmobranchs
(sharks and rays) and predatory reef fish. This
research is used to inform future marine resource management
decisions in the Turks & Caicos Islands with the
overarching goal of promoting environmental, economic,
and social sustainability.
What’s it all for?
Through research described above, combined with education
and community engagement, SFS CMRS aims to
provide the local South Caicos community and decision
makers with the information needed to make difficult
management decisions. We hope this information
empowers them to generate multi-faceted, place-based,
sustainable solutions that are suitable for the community
we all know and love.
Not only does the data our students collect and
analyze have enormous contributions to the long-term
ecological monitoring and facilitation of well-informed
decision making, but each student leaves this program
with transferable skills they can take forward into the
world. Our students return home with memories of a
transformative experience, solidified by a life-changing
shift in mindset. SFS believes young people are the
future, and to solve our world’s biggest challenges, we
must train and educate the next generation of leaders to
think critically, act compassionately, and work collaboratively.
While the students stay only 1 to 3 months, SFS CMRS
has been lucky enough to be a part of the diverse, tightknit
South Caicos community for over 30 years. One that
is constantly growing, changing, and adapting to the very
real effects of our changing planet. With these changes
come complex problems and difficult decisions. These
problems might be complicated, but we at SFS CMRS are
ready to support and empower the South Caicos community
to achieve a shared sustainable future. a
Want to get involved?
Check out our website with link to donate.
Follow us on Instagram for updates.
Come visit us on South Caicos! Book a tour by emailing
Center Director Heidi Hertler (hhertler@fieldstudies.
org).
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A honeycomb cowfish swims over the reef. Its skin is intricately patterned with bright yellow coloration. These fish can also shift the brightness
of the patterns on their skin, helping them to blend in with different environments.
LYDIA A. HARRIS
Thinking Inside the Box
The oddly shaped boxfish.
By Lydia A. Harris ~ Edited by C.E. O’Brien, Ph.D.
The School for Field Studies, Center for Marine Resource Studies, South Caicos
Ask someone to draw a fish, and you can probably guess the basic shape they will draw: a horizontal oval
with a triangle on one end for a tail. Easy enough, and this shape would be accurate for many of the fish
out there. Another key feature of this classically shaped fish is that it is laterally compressed, meaning
that it is not very wide from side to side. From the front, its profile is a thin line, while the side profile is
where we see that elongated oval shape. This body plan seems to work really well in the water as many
species of fish across many families have evolved this shape and are very fast and maneuverable. It’s no
wonder that this is the body plan we tend to think of when we imagine a fish.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 39

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But some fish are built differently. There are many
oddly shaped fish in the sea, and many examples from the
Turks & Caicos. Think of flat flounders, lumpy frogfish,
winged batfish, and even noodle-like eels. Another oddly
shaped group is known as Tetraodontiformes, which
includes fish such as pufferfishes, boxfishes, filefishes,
triggerfishes, and more. These fish families have all sorts
of unique shapes. Pufferfish, porcupinefish, and burrfish
have large, round bodies, often covered in spines. Filefish
and triggerfish have trapezoid-shaped bodies and usually
have one large spine poking up from the top of their
heads (this is the “trigger” of the triggerfish). But one of
the most interesting of these is the family Ostraciidae, or
the boxfishes.
The boxfishes are accurately named. Instead of that
classic, skinny oval shape, their bodies are distinctly
box-like. Rather than laterally compressed with a skinny
profile, their bodies form a triangular or hexagonal shape
with a wide, flat bottom and rigid sides that slant up to
a ridge along their dorsal (top) side. Along with this fascinating
body shape, the boxfishes are often brightly
colored and intricately patterned, making them an excit-
ing fish to find on a snorkel or dive.
The “box” that gives the boxfishes their distinctive
shape is actually made of bones. Each side of the box, or
“carapace,” is composed of multiple plates of thick bone
that become firmly attached to each other as the boxfish
grows. These plates are called “scutes” and their edges
have suture-like teeth that help connect the scutes to each
other. Also helping to bridge the gaps between scutes is
a network of fibers made of collagen, a protein that is a
part of connective tissues like tendons and ligaments.
The body of the boxfish is almost completely enclosed
inside this carapace, but there are openings for its eyes,
mouth, gills, fins, and tail. The result is a unique-looking
fish with a built-in suit of armor under its skin. Research
shows that this armored carapace is very strong and able
to withstand both penetrating attacks (with teeth) and
crushing attacks from predators.
Is this the whole story behind the boxfish’s box?
Other theories suggest that the bony carapace could
also provide mineral storage, help protect males from
each other as they compete for females, or even increase
maneuverability. The edges of the carapace might also
DR. C.E. O’BRIEN
A spotted trunkfish sits by a rocky wall. This is an excellent view of the different fins: pectoral fin in the middle of its side, dorsal fin on the
top of its back, anal fin underneath and before the tail, and the broom-like tail (or caudal) fin.
40 www.timespub.tc

green pages
A scrawled cowfish hovers above a sandy plain. This is a good example of a common habitat where boxfishes will forage for food.
DR. C.E. O’BRIEN
act like the keel of a boat and help stabilize the boxfish
in turbulent water. However, many studies have had different
results, so it’s unclear whether the carapace has a
stabilizing or destabilizing effect. More research is definitely
needed to assess how this bony carapace impacts
the performance of the boxfishes, but it’s possible that
these fascinating fish have evolved a way to both protect
themselves and maintain their swimming ability.
In addition to their bony armor, some species also
have bony spines and some produce toxic substances in
their skin. When a boxfish feels stressed or threatened, it
releases slimy mucus from its skin that goes directly into
the water around it or right into the mouth of the predator
that is trying to eat the boxfish. The toxin they secrete
is known as ostracitoxin or pahutoxin, and it is highly
poisonous to anything in the nearby area. This toxin is
generally not very harmful to humans, but very poisonous
to other fish. This is why boxfishes are notoriously difficult
to keep in aquariums—a stressed-out boxfish can
accidentally wipe out all of its tankmates in such a small,
enclosed area.
The bright colors of many boxfish species are a
warning sign to predators and other fish that they are poisonous.
Using bright colors as a toxicity warning is known
as aposematism and is found throughout the animal kingdom,
for example in snakes, frogs, and butterflies.
Given their cumbersome shape and small fins,
intuition would suggest that boxfish are slow, clunky
swimmers. But some research indicates that they are
actually strong, powerful swimmers comparable to more
“classic” fish body types. Boxfishes use different fins to
swim with than most other fish: they mostly use the fins
on either side (pectoral fins) and the fins on the top and
bottom (dorsal and anal fins respectively), while other
fish will use their tail fin to propel their body. Even so, the
boxfish body shape is rather hydrodynamic and capable
of speed and maneuverability. They also have a powerful
tail that enables them to move very quickly if they need
to, but with prey that doesn’t move and multiple defenses
against predators, it doesn’t seem that they need to very
often. Instead, they are usually found swimming slowly
around the ocean floor looking for food in a variety of
habitats, including rocky areas and coral reefs, open
sandy plains, and seagrass beds.
Boxfishes eat many different kinds of marine invertebrates,
such as shrimp, sponges, worms, tunicates,
and more. Much of their diet includes organisms that
are non-mobile, or sessile, meaning they are attached
to a hard, unmoving surface like rocks or a coral reef.
Boxfishes have small mouths with protruding lips and
pointy teeth. To eat, they turn their mouths downward
and graze on the sessile organisms. Some species have
also been reported using their mouths to blow jets of
water into the sand in order to uncover and find prey.
Boxfishes are found all over the world, and there
are five species that you can spot in the Turks & Caicos
Islands. There are two kinds of boxfishes: cowfishes and
trunkfishes. The cowfishes are distinguished from the
trunkfishes by two spines, one over each eye, that look
like little cow horns.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 41

green pages
There are two
Caribbean
cowfish,
the scrawled cowfish
(Acanthostracion quadricornis)
and the honeycomb
cowfish (Acanthostracion
polygonius). The scrawled
cowfish is yellow with blue
markings in a random
“scrawled” pattern, and
the honeycomb cowfish is
a yellowish-brownish color
with a distinctive honeycomb
pattern. Each of
these cowfish are usually
about a foot (0.3 meters)
in length and found at depths of up to 80 feet (24 meters).
While not especially common, they are found throughout
the Caribbean, and their range includes as far north as
Massachusetts and as far south as Brazil.
The Caribbean is also home to three species of trunkfish:
the smooth trunkfish (Lactophrys triqueter), the
spotted trunkfish (Lactophrys bicaudalis), and the buffalo
trunkfish (Lactophrys trigonis). The smooth trunkfish is
identified by its dark body with white spots and a patch
of honeycomb pattern on the middle of each side. This
trunkfish is called “smooth” because of its lack of spines,
while both the spotted and buffalo trunkfish have a spine
on either side of the tail (but not above the eyes, these
are only found on the cowfishes). The spotted trunkfish
has the reverse color pattern of the smooth: a white body
covered with dark spots. The buffalo trunkfish is usually a
mottled gray or brown color, with white spots on its back.
The buffalo trunkfish is the largest of the trunkfish,
reaching over a foot (0.3 meters) long with a maximum
length of 19 inches (0.5 meters), while other trunkfish are
usually around a foot (0.3 meters) long or smaller. Like
the cowfishes, the trunkfishes can be found at depths
up to 80 feet (24 meters), although the buffalo trunkfish
is generally found at shallower depths. Out of these
three species, the smooth trunkfish is the most common
in the Caribbean, while the spotted trunkfish is found
From top: A buffalo trunkfish glides over the ocean floor. Notice
how its mottled colors blend in well with its environment, providing
camouflage.
A smooth trunkfish swims over a rocky reef. Notice the reverse color
pattern compared to the spotted trunkfish.
A spotted trunkfish hangs out in a rocky crevice. Note its small, protruding
mouth and the distinctive ridge on its back.
DR. C.E. O’BRIEN
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green pages
occasionally and the buffalo trunkfish is uncommon.
Like the cowfishes, each trunkfish species ranges from
Massachusetts to Brazil.
In the Caribbean, the best way to enjoy these eccentric
fish is by saying hello if you see them out on the reef.
Some boxfish species are kept in hobby aquariums, but
these are usually from the Pacific since the Caribbean
species are protected from the aquarium trade. Boxfish
are also rather difficult to keep in aquariums because of
the toxins they can produce from their skin when they
get stressed. While they are generally regarded as “excellent
eating,” there isn’t a prominent boxfish fishery in the
Caribbean, although they are occasionally fished.
While it’s not the most common fish to see on the
reef, the good news is that the populations of all five
Caribbean boxfish species are considered to be at healthy
levels. Each species is determined to be of “least concern”
on the International Union for Conservation of Nature
(IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species. However, there
are many general threats affecting their habitats. Global
climate change, pollution, and overfishing are contributing
to the degradation of coral reefs, a vital ecosystem
that supports around 25% of all marine life, despite only
taking up around 1% of the ocean floor.
Coral reefs are considered to have the highest biodiversity
of any ecosystem on Earth and provide several
ecosystem services including protecting coastlines
and providing food and recreational opportunities. It’s
extremely important to protect coral reefs and other
marine habitats from human-based threats, otherwise we
risk losing an ecosystem that is vital to the well-being of
the ocean and the organisms that depend on it, including
ourselves.
There is still a lot to learn about the boxfish, not in
the least determining the purpose of its bony carapace.
More research is being conducted to determine how body
shape affects its swimming performance, and the built-in
suit of armor and toxic skin of the boxfish provide a great
opportunity for research on defenses against predation.
These fascinating, mysterious fishes are an intriguing
piece of the coral reef ecosystem and an undeniable treat
to spot underwater. While their box-like shape is out of
the ordinary, these fishes are definitely thinking inside of
the box. a
For references or more information, contact cobrien@
fieldstudies.org.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 43

MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM

feature
Opposite page: Turks & Caicos heather is TCI’s national flower and grows nowhere else in the world except on a few of TCI’s islands. It is a
“threatened” species on the CITES list.
Above: Lignum vitae is a native tree scattered in dry forests. Some of the trees are well over 100 years old. This plant and tree, among others
that make up the country’s natural heritage, have been cleared from building sites.
Clearing Away Paradise
Can TCI’s native species still be saved?
By Ben Stubenberg
AGILE LE VIN—WWW.VISITTCI.COM
As the first rays of a golden sun peak above the pale blue sea and peer through cotton ball clouds, the
island jitneys drop off construction crews at building sites all around Providenciales. In the cool morning
air, before the heat of the day sets in, the bossman sticks pegs in the dirt to mark out the area for
removing brush and leveling the land for the next big building. When done, a driver climbs into the seat
of a Caterpillar D8 bulldozer, presses a button to start the engine, and lowers the blade to an inch above
the rocky terrain. He puts the dozer in gear and scrapes away all the trees and plants corner to corner.
It doesn’t take much for the 40 ton dozer to tear down even the most stubborn tree. The brush is
shoved into a giant heap and loaded into a hefty truck that hauls it away to the dump where it is mixed
with island trash.
The driver then readies the dozer to make a second go over the site. This time he drops the blade an
inch or two into the ground and pushes the top layer of the sandy soil into another pile until the site is
flat and smooth and utterly devoid of life. Now construction can begin.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 45

What do we lose?
These trees and plants are rooted deeply in island history
from when the Tainos first settled here around 700
A.D. through to present times. The flora adapted well to
the arid conditions of the low-lying Lucayan Archipelago
and created a remarkably rich ecology over thousands of
years. Today, none of that matters.
Much of the brush cleared from a building site might
be common and fast growing. But mixed in are threatened
or endangered species that make up the essence
of TCI’s natural and national heritage. The pile of cleared
brush might contain lignum vitae (Guaiacum sanctum),
West Indian mahogany (Swietenia mahagoni), various
types of thatch palm (Coccothrinax inaguensis), Caicos
encyclia rufa orchids (Encyclia caicensis), and Turks Head
cactus (Melocactus deinacanthus). A host of medicinal
plants like agave, yucca, and aloe may also be swept away
by the dozer’s blade.
Eight rare plants in Turks & Caicos grow nowhere else
in the world. One is the Turks & Caicos heather, TCI’s
national flower, also known as Limonium bahamense. It
thrives on the edges of salt flats in harsh saline conditions
that few other plants on the planet can do. In fact,
the tiny purple flowers poking through a white sheath
are elusive even here and restricted to just a few islands.
This plant is listed as “threatened” by the Convention on
International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES).
Notable among the trees scattered in dry forests is
the lignum vitae that produces a wood so dense and heavy
that it sinks rather than floats in the water. That special
quality made it durable enough to make things as diverse
as police billy clubs, bearings, and steamship propeller
shafts in the 1800s. The lignum vitae once flourished, but
the enormous demand for this wood spurred European
settlers to chop down as many trees as they could on
nearby islands.
The population of the lignum vitae may have been
less vulnerable to logging in TCI due to a lag in development
compared to other islands until recently. But these
Islands were not spared the logger’s ax either, according
to visittci.com. Still, the hardy trees remaining managed
to endure, even in the face of ferocious hurricanes and
long periods of drought, as well as periodic floods. They
stood their ground, grew stronger, and lived for 100,
200, or even 300 years.
TCI’s older lignum vitae would have witnessed the
arrival of the first enslaved people brought to these
shores by Loyalist planters in the 1790s. For them,
the long branches dense with green and yellow foliage
The bulldozer’s blade might also sweep away (from top) the iconic
Turks Head Cactus and a medicinal plant like the versatile aloe.
MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS
46 www.timespub.tc

became a welcome sight and respite, inviting each new
generation of Islanders to sit in the shade and to pick its
dark blue flowers in the spring when they bloomed. Locals
back in the day used the bark as a bush medicine to help
relieve everything from rheumatism to toothaches. This
special quality also gave lignum vitae the nickname “Tree
of Life.”*
The scrubby brush on building sites slated for clearing
also serves as a habitat for dozens of native and
migratory species of birds. These include the Antillean
nighthawk (Chordeiles gundlachii), songbirds like the
thick-billed vireo (Vireo crassirostris), and Bahama mockingbird
(Mimus gundlachii). The clearing of building sites
can also threaten the viability of nearby shallow inter-tidal
wetlands where many birds feed and breed. Among those
affected in these wetlands are the reddish egret (Egretta
rufescens) and piping plover (Charadrius melodus). Sea
birds that nest along the ironshore, such as the Red-billed
tropic bird (Phaethon aethereus), have also seen their
habitats threatened due to development.
The full impact of habitat destruction on birds is not
well known, except that numbers appear to be falling on
Providenciales (Provo) and other parts of the Caribbean
as the green space shrinks. Indeed, it is well within the
realm of possibility that the degradation and reduction
of habitat may lead to a tipping point that triggers the
sudden collapse of certain bird populations.
What drives destruction?
For too many developers today, the native flora that grew
for centuries on building sites is in the way. So is the
fauna that inhabited the once dense brush. With land
prices as high as they are on Provo, each square foot
matters.
It is really a simple calculation: Space for a new
pool sells better than space for an old tree. Moreover,
construction budgets almost never include landscaping
prior to construction. To generate the expected profit for
investors, the trees and plants on the property must be
removed regardless of the consequences.
That’s when the big yellow dozer is called in. And
the venerable trees and orchids and other native plants
that once dotted and defined Provo’s landscape for centuries
are gone before lunch break. Whatever stories told,
whatever laughter shared, whatever comfort felt beneath
the branches and among the flowers vanishes. Gone too
are the songs and calls of birds, replaced by a wrench-
Once used to make rope, the towering sisal plant has a long history
in the Islands. It, too, is a target of habitat destruction.
ing silence that quietly tells its own story of something
vibrant forever lost.
In their stead rumbling backhoes dig deep trenches
to fill with concrete that lay the foundation to support
story after story of thick floors and walls injected with
ever more concrete. The higher the building, the more
clearing is required for huge cranes and other construction
equipment to operate.
Once built, the tall new buildings will blot out the
horizon and, in the course of the day, cast long shadows
over the land below. In time, they will decay and crumble
and leave behind eyesores for another generation to deal
with. A painful irony is not lost: The big, beautiful trees
that once graced the land would have long outlived those
high-rises that now rule.
Is there hope?
Yes, there is hope, but hope is shrinking fast. The current
trend strongly favors rampant construction over biodiversity
protection. No one can pretend otherwise. Still, there
are pockets pushing back.
MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS
* The first Europeans to arrive in the Caribbean region following the Columbus landing believed that the resin from the lignum vitae
could be used to cure syphilis, which also contributed to the high demand.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 47

AGILE LE VIN
This is what preparation for construction too often looks like these days. From top: This site is in a residential area in The Bight. An enormous
hole was dug in the natural ridge, so all of the nearby houses are now cliffside.
This scraped site is on the southwest boundary of the Northwest Point Marine National Park.
48 www.timespub.tc

In 2010, a band of ardent TCI residents formed the
Turks & Caicos Environmental Club (TCEC), an informal
association to advocate for preserving native species.
Making the case for environmental protection when developers
have tens of millions of dollars on the line recalls
a David versus Goliath struggle, except without a sling
for David. Nonetheless, an awareness has taken hold. A
handful of architects, developers, contractors, and landscapers
have tried to find work-around alternatives to
spare some of the native trees and plants from removal.
Planning usually begins with architects and landscapers
designing ways to balance construction with
retention of green space and factor in the extra cost.
COAST Architects, James Hamilton Architects, and SWA,
are among the more prominent architects taking on this
challenge.
The preferred option when working with developers
is to leave some native species in place. If that is not
possible, which is more often the case, landscapers dig
up the flora tagged for conservation and keep them alive
until they can be replanted around the new structures.
The landscapers typically set up a nursery on the
building site and continually water the trees and plants
for 6 to 12 months until enough construction is completed.
But removing trees and later replanting them puts
the flora under enormous stress. The survival rate can (on
rare occasion) be as high as 85%. But more often it is less
than half and sometimes zero if they all die. It depends
on the experience of the landscapers, some luck, and the
species selected. The effort to keep just one tree alive
may cost hundreds if not thousands of dollars without
any guarantee of surviving.
Notwithstanding the added costs and uncertainties,
architect Simon Nicholls, co-founder of COAST Architects,
makes it a point to persuade prospective clients by
emphasizing the benefits of retaining local flora for the
bottom line and for the community. Nicholls explains,
“When we preserve our native flora, we help safeguard
TCI’s identity. We all lose if TCI loses its identity.”
While Simon can claim notable successes, it’s still a
hard sell to developers. Much of the time, ethical considerations
get lip service, but return on investment (ROI)
almost always trumps. However, the perception that high
density projects yield a greater ROI than low density projects
has come under sharp challenge—if not debunked
altogether.
DAVID M. STONE
At left, top to bottom: On a Caicos encyclia rufa orchid rescue is nine
year-old Tanley. First, she carefully digs out and extracts the plant
with roots intact, with assistance from Grandfather Lou. The bottom
image shows the plant flowering within a month after being rescued
and re-homed.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 49

services like health care, education,
policing, and road
construction and maintenance.
In short, whatever additional
revenue that high-density
models might generate for government
coffers through size
alone are offset by added cost
to TCI society and ecosystem.
DAVID M. STONE
Members of the Turks & Caicos Environmental Club rescued close to 1,000 Encyclia altissima orchids
from the St. Regis construction site over the course of several weeks. They were allowed full access.
What’s the alternative?
The perceived need to clear the land of native species to
make way for profitable developments is a false choice.
At least one study indicates that low density resorts built
on more acreage are likely to be more profitable while
significantly reducing environmental damage and overall
costs to society.
In 2014, TCI environmentalist Kathleen McNary wrote
a Harvard University graduate term paper that compared
the three-star, high-density, twelve-story Romanza
Condominium and Hotel Project with a low-density, fivestar
resort on Providenciales. Her study showed that the
high-density model would generate more revenue. But
only because more rooms would be sold compared to
the low density model.
However, the low density resort units produced a
much higher profit margin per unit and thus a better
ROI—even though the low-density units cost more to
build per square foot. Kathleen’s study indicates that TCI
can have it both ways by marketing to high-end tourist
clientele willing to pay more for low-density accommodations
and preserve more of the local biodiversity.
The study also found that the low density projects
created less runoff and other polluting factors that in turn
minimized damage to the reefs. Lower-density construction
also required far fewer skilled and unskilled workers
to be brought to TCI compared to high-density projects.
And that in turn meant spending less for government
What have some resorts
done?
Early in Provo’s tourism
development phase, resorts
generally adhered to the principle
and regulations at the time
of low density buildings and, in
most cases, leaving space for
native species. These included
Amanyara, Ambergris Cay
(Turks & Caicos Collection), and
Club Med when they began construction in the 1980s
and 1990s. Retaining the natural island environment
enhanced the “zen” of the resort and surroundings for
guests and owners.
Parrot Cay (COMO) also embraced the preservation
ethos and established its own extensive nursery to grow
native trees and plants with the intention of repopulating
the small island with the flora it once had. Other resorts
such as those in the Hartling Group and Beaches Turks &
Caicos incorporated preservation measures on their properties
as well.
Over the past 20 years, however, Provo has seen
dramatic changes to its scenery and ambiance, as new
regulations and the government’s Planning Department
have allowed resorts to build as high as 12 stories that
match the skyrocketing value of land.
A few newer resorts like Rock House (Grace Bay
Resorts) have opted for a low density approach that
preserved native species. COAST Architects designed
the one-story villas tucked into the dramatic cliffside.
Nature’s Vision landscaping removed some 4,000 trees
and plants and put them aside in a nursery on the building
site. Fortunately, most of the flora survived and was
replanted around the property when the first phase of
construction was completed in 2022.
Projetech, the prime contractor for Rock House,
worked with the rocky terrain to carve out steps in the
limestone to reduce excavation and pour less concrete.
50 www.timespub.tc

At the Rock House resort, Nature’s Vision landscaping removed some 4,000 trees and plants and put them in a nursery on the building site.
Most of the flora survived and was replanted in 2022.
Projetech also built roads around some of the old trees,
including lignum vitae, so they could remain in place. At
the same time, Rock House created a nature trail through
an untouched plot abutting the resort that was already
a habitat for native species of trees, plants, birds, and
butterflies.
What happens when non-native species are
imported?
Other resorts and villas may keep a few native species on
the property if there is room. However, they often import
many non-native trees and plants to give the resort a
more “tropical” look. These include the coconut palm
(Cocos nucifera) and bougainvillea. Non-native trees and
bushes, however, can outcompete native species and may
require up to ten times more water than local flora to stay
alive. That, of course, creates a greater demand for water
on an already dry island.
The non-native trees and plants often need pesticides
to ward off disease and stay healthy in what is a
foreign environment for them. In the course of planning
for the planting of these non-native species, developers
will sometimes “contract grow” them for up to three years
abroad, usually in Florida, until imported into TCI when
construction is complete. All such imports must have a
phytosanitary certification. While the certification helps to
mitigate the introduction of destructive invasive species,
including insects, it does not eliminate the risk to native
trees and plants.
In recent years, local farms and nurseries have begun
growing the non-native trees and plants to supply the
high demand through local sourcing rather than importing.
While the non-native tropical foliage can add an
appealing and colorful variety, they ultimately consume
more resources to grow and create an alien feel for the
Islands.
Who do we want to be?
The planting of foreign foliage instead of nurturing the
growth of native species inevitably prompts provocative
questions: Why does TCI, more pointedly Provo, have to
look like so many other tropical resorts in the Caribbean
and even parts of the Pacific? Should TCI cater to a fantasy
of what a beach vacation destination should look
like (for some, though not all, tourists)? Especially since
a handful of high-end, low-density resorts prove that TCI
can thrive as a destination that proudly highlights its own
unique and attractive species of trees and plants.
ESTEFANIA ARROCET—CAICOS MEDIA
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 51

AMANYARA RESORT
Early in TCI’s tourism development, resorts generally adhered to the principle and regulations of low density and leaving space for native
species. These included Amanyara (above). Retaining the natural island environment enhanced the “zen” of the resort and surroundings for
guests and owners.
These questions tug at the heart of TCI’s “Beautiful
by Nature” tagline and brand nurtured over decades—a
brand that has aimed to be the destination of choice for
discerning holiday visitors who gladly pay a premium for
exquisite natural beauty uncluttered by high-rises. When
a destination loses its special allure and starts to look like
everywhere else, well-off visitors invariably move on, as
tourism life-cycle studies have shown.**
Empirical evidence and a few exemplary developments
confirm that TCI can chart a course that allows
for profit as well as preservation. That alone should be
enough.
But for lasting change, maybe another question needs
to be asked. One that reaches deeper into the soul and
provokes profound introspection: On our human journey
as stewards of these Islands, what will be our legacy?
Will we be the generation that allowed big developers to
scorch the earth and pave over Provo even if they left a
few token trees and plants as heartbreaking reminders of
a faded heritage?
Or can we be the generation that reimagined what
TCI should be and salvaged what we could before it was
too late? The ones who required every new construction
project to leave large green spaces all around the property,
not just to protect but to expand native species.
The ones who ensured that no bulldozer ever stripped a
building site clean of life again.
One thing is for sure, future generations will not look
kindly on the generation that sold out and wiped away the
remaining lignum vitae, West Indian mahogany, Turks &
Caicos heather, Caicos encyclia rufa orchids, native and
migratory birds, and so much more.
Because once gone, it doesn’t come back. a
Ben Stubenberg is a regular contributor to Times of
the Islands and author of a new book, The Jamaican
Bobsled Captain: Dudley “Tal” Stokes and the untold
story of struggle, suffering and redemption behind Cool
Runnings. He can be contacted at benstubenberg.com
that also features his past articles in this magazine as
well as insightful commentary on Island trends.
For more information on the TCI Environmental
Club, visit Facebook TCI Environmental Club (FB Group):
https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1G82gVmdtL/?-
mibextid=wwXIfr or Instagram: @enviroclubtc or Email:
info@enviroclubtc.org.
**See Times of the Islands Winter 2023/24 article “Who Gets a Piece of Paradise” by Ben Stubenberg for an analysis of the life-cycle
of a tourist destination.
52 www.timespub.tc

feature
Opposite page: This composite image depicts the deterioration of the River Arc off North Caicos over a decade.
Above: A Google Earth Image shows the position of the River Arc grounded on the North Caicos barrier reef.
Abandoned, Beached, or
Wrecked?
The life and times of MV River Arc a.k.a. Helene Waller.
Story & Images By John Hopkins and Nicole Skakun
Shipwrecks have fascinated people ever since ships sailed the oceans; the fates of most wrecks lost in
time. Known stories involve storms, navigation errors, insurance scams, smuggling, piracy, treachery,
warfare, drunken captains, mutinous crews, and rivalries, to name just a few.
Not surprisingly, wrecks abound in the Turks & Caicos and Bahama Islands, an archipelago of reefs,
islands, and passages that have challenged mariners for centuries. Wrecking, the enterprise of scavenging
the cargos and remnants of ships, was a significant part the economy of The Bahamas in the 19th century
when over 2,000 individuals were registered as wreckers. Today, more than 650 wrecks have been
documented in the Turks & Caicos.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 55

So, what to make of the River Arc that ran aground
(variously recorded as abandoned, beached, or wrecked)
on the western side of a small cut in the barrier reef
north of Pumpkin Bluff, North Caicos, in August 1985?
She arrived without cargo and was driven into a blind
channel on the western side of the cut. One anchor down,
the forward and midships sections grounded on the barrier
reef within the cut, the aft section hanging in deeper
water. Even unladen there was no possibility that she
could enter the North Caicos lagoon by this cut.
Swells accompanying Hurricane Kate that crossed
the Caicos Islands on November 18, 1985 lifted the ship
and dumped her firmly on the substrate, listing a few
degrees starboard, stretching the anchor chain, ending
any possible attempts at salvage. Her final resting
position is clearly recorded by Google Earth images 2003-
09-02 and 2004-09-14 at Latitude 21º58’17”N, Longitude
71º59’42”W. For forty years she lay there wedged in the
cut, bathed in warm water, warm salty air, slowly disintegrating
through corrosion and battering by waves.
In time, a palimpsest of an earlier name outlined in
welding bead appeared beneath the steel embossed final
name—the River Arc was born as the Helene Waller.
The River Arc (at right) was born as the Helene Waller (below). The
original name can be seen outlined in welding bead beneath the final
name (at bottom).
56 www.timespub.tc

Wilhelm Waller of Germany was involved in maritime
trade in the 1930s. After the Second World War he
was joined by his son Dieter and nephew Jens to form
Reederei Jens and Waller. In 1963, Wilhelm commissioned
the Helene Waller, named after his wife. Built in the Brake
(Germany) shipyards by the Luring company, the ship
was 63.5m long, 10m wide, draft 5.9m, and weighed 499
tonnes, deadweight 1150 tonnes. She was powered by a
diesel 800hp engine, one shaft, and one propeller. Fore
and mid-ship single masts and aft twin king posts joined
by a steel beam were all equipped with loading booms;
the ship could serve small European ports that lacked
on-shore loading facilities. Registered as a general cargo
ship (ID No. 5424160), she was not a container ship,
although on occasion she carried a few containers as
deck cargo nestled between the aft hold and kingposts.
Cargo was loaded in slings and hoisted into two holds:
bulk cargo stored loosely, break-bulk cargo of individual
crates and packages man-handled and stored separately
in the holds or on the Tween deck, a second interior deck
between the two holds.
Several photographs of her between 1963 and 1975
variously reveal that she was in port in Plymouth (UK)
at sea passing up the Severn River on her way to Bristol
(UK) and on another voyage, Bayonne (France). A postcard
of her with a hand-written message details a voyage
between Rotterdam (Netherlands) and Bayonne, August
1966. For a period, she displayed the markings of the
Cantabrico Line that plied the Cantabrian Sea, an area of
the Atlantic Ocean off southwestern France and northwestern
Spain.
In 1976 she was sold to Parker Marine Co. Ltd.,
renamed Zebras Luck, and registered in Limassol, Cyprus.
(A new Helene Waller—a container ship registered number
7711919—was built for Jens and Waller in 1978). In
1979 the Zebras Luck was sold to Paros Sg Enterprises
Co., renamed Paros and registered in Piraeus (Greece).
A photo taken in the Port of Sharpness (UK) shows the
Paros, minus loading booms on the rear king posts, loading
by a shore crane, in need of a facelift and repaint.
In 1981 the Paros was purchased by ARC Nav Line, SA
and registered in Panama as the River Arc. She crossed
the Atlantic, then worked out of Miami serving various
ports in the Caribbean and South America. In 1983 she
underwent refit in Miami River but neglected to pay the
service charges.
The subsequent proceeding through the courts is a
story that has been preserved on several legal sites as
case history. The River Arc, the ship itself, was sued by
The longest established legal practice
in the Turks & Caicos Islands
Real Estate Investments
& Property Development
Immigration, Residency
& Business Licensing
Company & Commercial Law
Trusts & Estate Planning
Banking & Insurance
1 Caribbean Place, P.O. Box 97
Leeward Highway, Providenciales
Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI
Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564
E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc
Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70
Market Street, Grand Turk
Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI
Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758
E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc
the service company, and a court warrant of arrest issued
to detain her in Miami. In rem, a legal term from Roman
Law a millennium or so ago, refers to an object of value
that can be sued independent of human ownership. In
the following court hearing, the warrant of arrest was
rescinded and, as the plaintive omitted to obtain a stay
of the proceeding, the ship departed from Miami that evening.
By law, in rem applies only when the object is in
res, that is, it resides within the geographic jurisdiction
of the court; thus, once the ship had left, the in rem jurisdiction
was destroyed. The plaintiff appealed to the US
Court of Appeals for the Eleventh Circuit but the appeal
was denied.
In 1984 she was back in Miami for compass service;
a Deviation Certificate 1984-02-22 issued by a licensed
compass adjuster showed no deviation anomalies. Her
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 57

Deck Log records her passage from Guaranao (Venezuela)
to Miami, 1984-08-11 to 1984-08-15, past Cape Tiberon
(Haiti), and east of Cuba via the Old Bahama Channel and
Straits of Florida. The final dated entries in the Deck Log
are Miami to Nassau 1984-08-17 and returning to Miami
from Nassau 1984-08-19, via the NW Providence Channel,
course N-NW-SSE; at 13.00hrs anchored off Miami waiting
a pilot.
The Miramar Shipping Index records her as beached
on North Caicos 1985-08-21 returning from Castries
(Antigua). The times, distances, and locations from these
two sources do not compute: one more quirk in the story
of the River Arc.
Grounded on the barrier reef around North Caicos she
became a curiosity for local boat owners and visitors.
Strong wave and tide-induced currents limited access
to calm days via a rope ladder draped midship over the
western sheltered side. On our first family visit to the ship
our daughters, aged 11 and 13, scrambled up the ladder,
then encouraged their less agile parents using the spare
anchor line from our Boston Whaler.
The first impression on board was rust; four months
exposure without the constant maintenance of a working
ship had stripped the paint from hatch covers and deck
machinery. Brown rust streaks stained the white superstructure.
The second impression was that she was silent,
empty, deserted, no cargo, no lingering indication that
she had ever had a crew, not even graffiti. The lifeboat
was long gone, the davits swinging loosely. A few tram-
pled sea charts littered the floor on the bridge along with
a torn remnant of a Deck Logbook. A compass deviation
certificate hung on one wall; a manual of seafaring lay
bruised on the floor. All the character, personality, of the
vessel was gone; what was left was a lifeless mass of
steel, decaying. A bold osprey had claimed possession
of one of the king posts and was building a nest at the
crown, pausing occasionally to warn intruders that squatters
rights had been established.
For several years she remained intact, rusting progressively.
The rope ladder frayed and was replaced by a
knotted rope. In 1993 when Nicole was a grade 11 student
in North Caicos high school, she and a couple of
temporarily adopted brothers camped on board, shared
accommodation with the indignant osprey and a million
cockroaches, fished, and watched larger predators cruising
in and out though the cut.
Over the next decade the ship progressively deteriorated
as welded seams joining plates and ribs weakened
by corrosion. Along the waterline from mean high tide
down, repeated wetting and drying, salt, water, and oxygen
worked their wonders. Elemental iron was converted
to various iron oxides and hydroxides. The steel fell as
rusty flakes and ultimately dissolved in sea water, algae
clung to the pitted surface, pits became holes; in effect,
the ship was being cut in two horizontally and it became
unsafe to climb on board. Sometime around 1997–1998
the inevitable happened: a heavy storm pounded steel
sheets and ribs from the side, exposing the interior.
Above left: The River Arc was reported beached on North Caicos in late August, 1985 and already beginning to rust by the end of that year.
Over the next decade (above right) the ship progressively deteriorated as welded seams were weakened by corrosion.
58 www.timespub.tc

By 2000 it was possible, on high tide on a calm day,
to float into her hold in our Boston Whaler. Inside the hull
was a stark framework of steel ribs, cross beams, and
supports of the Tween Deck. And in this space the ambience
changed, a whiff of claustrophobia perhaps, the
impermanence of corroding steel, lingering fumes of oil
and diesel fuel mixed with sea mist, the subdued growl
of breakers on the nearby reef, gentle lapping of waves
against the hull, the swirl of water amongst the limbs of
this steel skeleton. Eyes closed, one conjured sounds and
scenes from the past: the squeal of winches, the screech
of brakes, slithering cable overhead, a net sling descending;
voices, curses, commands. Bodies stripped to the
waist glistening, sweat, muscle; tropical heat in a poorly
ventilated steel box.
Subsequent years saw large chunks of the midship
section detach, cast into the ocean, and scattered around
the wreck site. Testimony to the winter storms that
commonly pound the northern North Caicos coast with
waves up to 4 m high, and several hurricanes. By 2017,
midships had been cut to tide line; the forward and aft
sections, being more heavily ribbed and plated, lasted
longer.
The aft section consisted of a superstructure—crews’
quarters, galley, mess, and bridge—that overlay the
engine room and rudder deck. For a while, the whole section
remained intact but progressively listed to port, then
the superstructure detached, twisting the underlying hull
in the process. Now the engine (arrow) and rudder gear
head were exposed. The aft section bent, broke away
from the main hull, tilting seaward at 20 degrees; the
rudder deck detached and fell into deeper water at the
rear end of the ship.
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Above: By 2000, the interior of the River Arc was exposed and it was
possible to float into her hold.
Right: Subsequent years saw large chunks of the midship section
detach. They were cast into the ocean and scattered around the wreck
site.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 59

The aft section of River Arc consisted of a superstructure that overlaid the engine room and rudder deck. Once the superstructure detached,
the engine (see arrow) and rudder gear head were exposed.
Left: Viewed from the port side, the bulk of the engine appears massive
and magnified, shimmering below the swirl of ebbing waters.
Above: The more strongly braced and plated forward section would
remain intact with the foremast still standing in January 2011.
By 2017, the aft section had been cut to waterline,
the engine partially exposed at low tide. Marine diesel
engines of this vintage were heavy and robust, burning
diesel or bunker fuel, very different from their lighter,
more powerful, modern relatives.
Viewed from the port side (above) the bulk of the
engine appears massive and magnified, shimmering
below the swirl of ebbing waters. The exposed part of
the engine reveals six cylinders in-line, configured as
a four-stroke system. Each cylinder is topped by four
spring-loaded exhaust and intake valves, pairs of valves
are cross-linked by rocker arms, driven by a push rod
from the crankshaft within the belly of the engine. At
water level are remnants of the exhaust and air-intake
manifolds. Viewed from the starboard side (below) fuel
lines linked to fuel injectors are present.
60 www.timespub.tc

From top: Another violent storm swept away the River Arc’s remaining superstructure, so that by January 2023 the chain locker was opened
revealing an impressive pile of rusting links.
The remaining exposed material of the ship will disappear over the next few decades as steel is degraded. More solid parts that are permanently
submerged will last longer, perhaps several hundred years, and become the curiosities of future shipwreck enthusiasts.
The more strongly braced and plated forward section—fore
deck, foremast, anchor winches, Bosun’s
locker, and chain locker—would remain intact with the
foremast still standing in January 2011. At this time,
it appeared that the scarred, hollow-eyed old lady was
contemplating her fate with trepidation. Later that year,
the foremast toppled, then the deck and sides collapsed
down over the chain locker, likely effected by Hurricane
Irene, a Category 1 hurricane that passed by in August
2011. Another violent storm swept away the remaining
superstructure, so that by January 2023 the chain locker
was opened, revealing an impressive pile of rusting links,
surrounded underwater by a tangle of ribs, plates, and
the two anchors.
The remaining exposed material of the ship will disappear
over the next few decades as steel is degraded.
More solid parts that are permanently submerged—chain,
anchors, engine, and keel—will last longer, perhaps
several hundred years judging from other wrecks, and
become the curiosities of future shipwreck enthusiasts.
Likely, they will marvel at these remnants of a primitive
technology of their unsophisticated ancestors. a
John Hopkins is a retired geologist and homeowner on
North Caicos. Nicole Skakun (nee Hopkins) is a GIS specialist
with an interest in wetlands. Photographs presented
in this article were selected from our family compendium
of photos from many trips to the River Arc over the past
40 years. Details of her past are from Reederei Jens and
Waller, Miramar Shipping Index, and Wrecksite, websites
as of September 2024.
To view additional photos of her early years of service,
search the Internet using ID No. 5424160. The legal
history of the detention of the River Arc in Miami can be
accessed through several websites using her name.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 61

astrolabe
newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Front Street, PO Box 188, Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI TKCA 1ZZ
tel 649 247 2160/US incoming 786 220 1159 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org
PARADISE PHOTOGRAPHY
This current aerial view of West Caicos shows the old railroad line stretching across Lake Catherine to the Great Salina.
Fruitless!
The failed attempts to produce salt on West Caicos.
Story & Historical Images By Jeff Dodge
Most readers are aware that salt was once the most important industry on the Turks & Caicos Islands. This
important commodity was discovered in the mid 1600s by sailors from Bermuda on their way to trade
with the West Indies. They would sometimes stop at Grand Turk or Salt Cay, both uninhabited islands at
the time, to salvage cargo from ships wrecked on the nearby reefs. During these stopovers, they noticed
salt from evaporated sea water collected in shallow depressions or pans near the shore. They gathered
the salt, more or less on a casual basis, and took it back to Bermuda.
By about 1673, salt collection on the Turks Islands became an organized activity—first on Salt Cay and
five years later on Grand Turk. Slaves were brought to the Islands to build salt ponds (salinas), construct
canals to bring sea water from the sea to the ponds, and then to move the brine from pond to pond as
the sun’s evaporation process progressed until only salt was left behind. Salt production at East Harbour,
South Caicos, began about 1848.
What most accounts of the salt business on the Turks & Caicos Islands fail to mention is that in the
1850s there was a serious attempt to cultivate salt on the island of West Caicos.
62 www.timespub.tc

Jamaican
supervision
Under the Separation Act of
1848, the Turks & Caicos
were placed under the
supervision of the Governor
of Jamaica on December
25, 1848, thereby severing
control by the Bahamas.
Under this Act, the Turks
& Caicos Islands enjoyed
a local Legislative Council
and President to administer
the Islands. The
council consisted of eight
persons—four who were
elected and four appointed.
Efforts to expand
salt production
In 1848, Capt. Fredrick H.
A. Forth became the first
president under the new
system of government.
He focused his efforts on
developing and expanding
the salt industry—especially
on the Caicos Islands. To
accomplish this goal, Forth
lowered the export tax on
salt to increase demand.
To increase supply, Forth
promoted the development
of salt production on West
Caicos Island.
There were several large natural shallow salt water
ponds on West Caicos. Because of the extent of these
salinas, the potential salt output from them could have
exceeded that of Grand Turk, Salt Cay, and East Harbour.
These natural salt ponds included: Great Salina, about
240 acres in size; North Salina, 70 acres; Company’s
Salina, 18 acres, and three small salinas of 30, 10, and 8
acres each.
An exploratory trial
In 1849, a group of salt producers from Grand Turk investigated
expanding their salt production by developing
the 18 acre salina at Company Point. Unfortunately, the
experiment was unsuccessful for reasons unknown.
Points of interest on this overhead view of West Caicos include Lake Catherine, the railroad tracks across
the lake, the Great Salina, and Company Point.
The above map of West Caicos and the map on the
following page shows the Great Salina, (also known as
Forth Salina or Crown Salina), a natural depression where
sea water collected and evaporated, leaving salt and other
minerals behind. Great Salina, the largest on West Caicos,
was reported to be about 240 acres in size.
A railroad (dotted line) stretched from the Great
Salina across Lake Catherine to the deep water anchorages
on the west coast of the island. The railroad was
about 1.05 miles in length and was built by the Belle Isle
Salt Manufacturing Company of Philadelphia in 1859 and
1860.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 63

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
The first auction
In April 1852, following a survey of hundreds of acres
of the largest of the natural salt ponds (Great Salina) on
West Caicos, President Forth directed that Bermuda’s
Royal Gazette newspaper publish a notice stating that
21 year leases for lots of the largest salt pond (Great
Salina) would be offered at a public auction. The notice
went on to paint a positive picture of West Caicos, including
that a road from the salina to the anchorages on the
west coast and a canal connecting the sea to the salina
would be constructed at government expense. After several
postponements, the date for the auction was set for
November 15, 1852. The auction took place as scheduled,
but failed to interest buyers—no leases for the Great
Salina were sold.
The color code of this map of West Caicos is as follows: Gray = naturally
occurring salinas; yellow = beach ridges; green = lowlands; red =
high ridges; brown = lower beach ridges. The dotted line represents
the railroad.
The second auction
The government published a notice in 1852 advertising
that they would auction small lots from the 70 acre North
Salina on West Caicos on October 5.
Following the North Salina auction, the Turks Islands
Gazette published that the sale took place on November
22 as scheduled and all or most of the 3 and 5 acre leases
were sold—mostly to Turks Islanders.
Unfortunately, there is no evidence that any of these
lots were ever put into production or that salt was ever
produced or exported. No doubt, the failure of these
leases to become productive would have resulted in these
salina grounds reverting to government ownership as per
the lease agreements.
A new president
In 1854 William Inglis became the second president of
the Turks & Caicos Islands. Like President Forth, Inglis
continued to promote the development of West Caicos—
especially salt production there.
In June 1857, newspapers quoted President Inglis as
saying the “most valuable salinas in the whole of the West
Indies were located on West Caicos.”
This is a portion of an April 26, 1852 notice published in the Bermuda
Royal Gazette to advertise a public auction of salt pond leases on
West Caicos.
Production achieved
It was not until 1857 that bringing the salinas on West
Caicos into production was finally achieved. On July 13,
Mr. John Winter, an American and the ex-U.S. Consul of
the Turks & Caicos Islands, purchased a 21 year lease for
100 acres of the Great Salina plus the land necessary for
64 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
This notice, appearing in the Bermuda Royal Gazette in September
1852, announces that small lots from the North Salina on West Caicos
would be offered for lease at £1 per acre per year.
buildings, wharves, etc. for 1£ per acre per year with the
option to renew the lease for another 10 years.
In accordance with the lease, the leasee agreed to construct
a railway from the salina to the west coast of the
island. The lease stated that all railways, wharves, and
buildings constructed by the leasee were to revert to the
Crown at the expiration of the lease or upon failure of the
leasee to comply with the terms of the lease.
Since finding laborers to work the salt ponds on West
Caicos had been one of reasons development there had
previously been unsuccessful, James Winter was offered
financial incentives for each laborer he brought to the
island under a one year contract.
James Winter signed the lease agreement in July 1857,
but the term of the 21 year lease and rental payments did
not begin until January 1, 1859.
Shown here are the remains of railway tracks across Lake Catherine.
When completed, the railway was about 1.05 miles long. It ran from
the Great Salina, across Lake Catherine, to the anchorages on the west
coast of West Caicos.
Belle Isle Salt Manufacturing Company
In January 1859, the Belle Isle Salt Manufacturing
Company of Philadelphia was formed. Company trustees
Samuel Grant and Charles Jackson paid John Winter
$50,000 for his lease for the 100 acre salt pond on West
Caicos.
During the year 1859, a considerable number of laborers
and large quantities of building materials were sent
to West Caicos from the United States. Buildings were
constructed and a railroad for transporting salt from the
salina to the west coast was partially completed.
This stock certificate was issued to James Winter for 10 shares in the
Belle Isle Salt Manufacturing Company on January 26, 1861.
Port of entry established
In early 1859, the U.S. Consul at Turks Island, James B.
Hayne, declared that a port of entry had been established
at West Caicos. Hayne said that he expected West Caicos
to be a coaling depot for American steamers as well as a
place for the manufacture of salt under the auspices of
an American company. Hayne stated that “James Winter,
Esq., the late U.S. Consul at Turks Island, has been
appointed U.S. Consular Agent at West Caicos.”
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 65

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
On August 28, 1859, the New York Herald reported
that the bark Gertrude arrived the previous day from
West Caicos. She reported that the Belle Isle Company of
Philadelphia was building a railroad on West Caicos to a
salt pond in the interior. The Gertrude brought home 13
laborers who had been employed building a road.
Mr. Winter or his representative wrote to the Public
Ledger of Philadelphia in September 1859 to announce
that the Belle Isle Salt Manufacturing Co. believed their
salt would be superior to any other collected in the
region. An agent sent to West Caicos brought back samples
of their salt that tested surprisingly high for both
purity and strength.
The Public Ledger article went on to say that production
on West Caicos would exceed that of the other salt
islands on a per acre basis. The Belle Isle Company also
believed their salt would command a higher price than
salt from the other islands because of its purity.
The demise of the Belle Isle company
In 1862, President Inglis told the Legislative Board of
the Turks & Caicos Islands that he had received information
in December last (1861) that the Belle Isle Salt
Manufacturing Company had gone into insolvency. The
Dips in salt production were generally the result of weather—such
as a year with above normal rainfall, which would spoil production
in the salt ponds.
reason given was that operations on West Caicos were
terminated due to the “Great Rebellion” (Civil War) in the
United States.
In 1862, the Crown took possession of the assets
of the Belle Isle Salt Company on West Caicos. These
included the 100 acre Salina, a 1.05 mile long railroad,
buildings, and wharves. There is no evidence that the
Belle Isle Salt Company ever actually sold or shipped salt
from West Caicos.
Exactly how or why the American Civil War caused the
Belle Isle Salt Company to fail is unknown, as salt exports
from Grand Turk, Salt Cay, and East Harbour (South
Caicos) during that period continued to be favorable as
shown in the chart above.
Unfortunately, the failed attempts to produce salt on
West Caicos in the 1850s was enough to dissuade others
from attempting development of the island for the
next 30 years. That is, until 1890, when cultivation of
the Pita plant (sisal fibre) began on West Caicos. The
West Caicos Sisal Company was registered in 1891.
However, failure was again in the cards for this endeavor
as the West Caicos Sisal Company ceased operations
in 1903—some say due to inept management. a
The author wishes to thank Linda Abend, Bermuda
researcher extraordinaire, and Nigel Sadler of the Sands
of Time Consultancy, and former director of the Turks &
Caicos National Museum.
66 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Shipwrecks surrounding the Turks & Caicos Islands in 1815 were largely the result of two hurricanes that struck the area that year.
ISTOCK
Run Aground
Shipwrecks of the Turks & Caicos Islands–The Turks Islands (1813 — 1815)
By James Jenney, Director of Research, The Bahamas Lost Ship Project
Over the years, the Turks & Caicos Islands have been generally very lucky when it came to the matter of
hurricanes. The 19th century saw three exceptions to that. In 1866, a monstrous hurricane struck the
West Indies and did an unparalleled amount of damage to the entire region. But a half-century before that
storm, in 1815, two hurricanes struck the Islands, the first on August 31 and the second less than three
weeks later, on September 20. Between the two they claimed 21 vessels.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 67

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
September 26, 1813 — FORESTER
The British ship Forester, Captain Jackson, was enroute
from Bermuda for Jamaica when disaster struck and
caused her to run ashore on Turks Island. Had her loss
taken place a month earlier it would surely have been
attributed to a hurricane that struck her, causing considerable
damage (though none to maritime interests). The
reported loss of this ship appeared in the Lloyd’s List of
December 28 due to the time necessary for the news to
cross the Atlantic Ocean. No information has been discovered
with regard to any salvage efforts at the wreck.
March 2, 1814 — LITTLE JOHN
In the Spring of 1814 another British merchant vessel
added her name to the rolls. According the Bahama
Gazette of April 17, 1814, “The Little John left Martinique
in February last, bound for Havana, and on the 2nd, ult.
was stranded on Silver Key, or Square Handkerchief, near
Turks Islands. The vessel and her cargo (consisting of
silks and wine) were totally lost. The crew fortunately
were saved and taken off by a brig under Swedish colors
bound for Boston . . .” There is an apparent inconsistency
in the route reported and the type of cargo (which surely
did not originate in Martinique). It is probable that the
vessel sailed from Spain and arrived at the Caribbean farther
south than planned and made a stop at Martinique
before continuing. The distance between Grand Turk and
the shoal is far enough to suggest that there was no salvage
performed on the vessel or cargo.
August 31, 1815
The first word of this storm came from the reports of
vessels far to the south of the Turks & Caicos Islands.
On August 29 the captain of the American brig Joanna,
northward bound from Trinity, Martinique experienced
what he described as “a most tremendous hurricane
which lasted fourteen hours.” At the time, he was off the
island of Deseada, Guadeloupe, and more than 750 miles
from Turks Island. The storm was said to be of considerable
size and strength.
The hurricane was next reported by a sloop at St.
Barts and was so large that “it caused all of the vessels
in St. Croix (115 miles to the west) to head out to sea to
save themselves.” As the storm continued on her course,
there was a report from the master of the schooner Lady
Washington when she was in the Silver Bank Passage,
less than fifty miles from Grand Turk Island. It was clear
that the storm was tracking northwest and was destined
to wreak havoc on the ships waiting for salt at Grand
Key.
A letter from Grand Turk published a few months
later provided the following description of the event, “The
gale of 29th August was more destructive to the shipping
than anything else; seven vessels have been totally
lost, but providentially no lives. The loss of salt was occasioned
by the heavy rains which lasted a long time after
the hurricane.” Of the seven vessels lost in the storm
there were three brigs, two full-rigged ships, a snow, and
a sloop.
Brig Bellona — An American vessel under the command
of a Captain Emmons and hailing from Kennebunk, Maine.
Snow Caroline — A 195-ton snow rigged sailing ship,
built in Massachusetts in 1805 and under the command
of a Captain N. Davis. She was on a voyage from London,
but it was not stated whether or not her principal destination
was Turks Island.
Sloop Essex, of Troy, MA, Capt. Bushnell.
Brig Frederick — An American vessel under the command
of a Captain Elwell from Boston, Massachusetts.
Brig Margaret — Built in Hartford, Connecticut in 1812,
this brig measured 82' x 25' x 10' and displaced 181
tons. Whether or not she was sailing from her home port
of Hartford is not known but she was under the command
of a Capt. Collins when lost.
Ship Oscar — An American ship from Boston,
Massachusetts under the command of a Capt. Rollins at
the time of loss.
Ship Xenophen — A 369-ton American ship built in
Rochester in 1810. At the time of her loss, she was owned
by J. Howland and on a voyage from Greenock, Scotland
under the command of a Capt. B. Lord.
September 20, 1815
A second hurricane of significant strength arrived on
September 20. Because of the remoteness of the Turks &
Caicos it was almost a month before news of the storm
arrived in American papers brought in by vessels bringing
cargos from there. A detailed report did not appear
until early November when the Salem Gazette reported,
“At the time of the gale of the 20th September there were
twenty-five vessels in port, at Grand Key and Salt Key, 10
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
of which were lost, 1 rode it out, 5 put to sea and are still
missing, 9 returned and have since loaded and sailed for
America.” Research shows that the news was fairly accurate
in this report. Twenty-three vessels were impacted by
the effects of this powerful storm of which 9 are known
lost, 9 were known to have survived the storm, and 5
whose final fate is uncertain. Of these, 10 were full-rigged
ships, 7 brigs, 5 schooner-rigged vessels, and 1 sloop.
The 14 vessels known or believed lost are listed below.
Ships — Betsey (Capt. Eldridge or George, wrecked at
Grand Key Beach); Peace & Plenty (406 tons; Capt. Mather
or Mathews; under control of a pilot who assured them
that they would be safe, the ship ran on the southwest
reef at Grand Turk; 22 aboard took to the ship’s boat and
were all lost; the 3 that remained aboard survived.)
Brigs — America (Capt. Dimock; wrecked at the Riding
Place, Grand Key); Diligence (Capt. S. Fortine; lost on
Grand Key Beach); Edward & Charles (356 tons; Capt.
Lester; of and from New York, wrecked on Southwest
Reef, between Grand Key and Salt Key); Ganges (212
tons; Capt. Smith; driven out of Hawk’s Nest and wrecked
on East Key); Nymph (Capt. Patch; from Guadeloupe, lost
on Salt Key) and Redress (Capt. Brainard; of Haddam, CT;
driven out of Hawk’s Nest and last reported missing).
Schooners — Concord (Capt. Waters; of Boston; driven
off and last reported missing); Harriet (British schooner,
also found as Harriot; 250 tons; Capt. R. Pringle; wrecked
on the northeast reef of Grand Turk); Neptune (Capt.
M’Kay; of New York; from Jamaica for Turks Island; driven
off and last reported missing); Planter (Capt. Burdsy; of
Fairfield [CT?]; driven off and last reported missing); and
an Unidentified Spanish schooner (from Port-au-Prince;
driven off and last reported missing).
Sloop — Little Will (British schooner; of Bermuda; driven
ashore and wrecked at the Riding Place, Grand Key).
October 5, 1815 — URBANO
The news tells the story of the loss of the Urbano, “Sailed
from New York on the 12th Sept. 1815, in good order and
fit for the voyage, having undergone a thorough overhaul
in the hull, rigging, &c . . . On the 5th Aug. at 12 o’clock
our latitude by meridian observation was 21.42N then
steering west. At 6:30, observed the land, bearing W.S.W.
which I supposed to be Turks Island. . . At 7:30, while in
the act of stretching off to the northward [meaning to
stand off until daylight next morning] the ship struck on
a sunken rock which immediately unshipped the rudder;
the sternpost gave way . . . and the masts were cut away
after which the total destruction of the ship was so rapid
it was not possible to save anything . . .”
October 25, 1815 — MERINO
The first reports of the loss of this ship were vague, “Ship
_____, Adams, of Philadelphia, was lost.” After some further
research, the following news report was found in
the Philadelphia Political and Commercial Register, “Ship
Merino, Adams, of this port, was wrecked at Turks Island
in the violent gale of the 20th October [other reports
say it began on the 21st].” A number of other sources
reported that this storm lasted for four days making its
influence on the merchant vessels at Turks Island and
Salt Key considerable. But despite the reported strength
of the storm, this vessel and one other were the only two
casualties reported.
October 25, 1815 — UNION
According to the Baltimore American of November 13,
1815, “All the vessels in Grand Turk and Salt Key, in all
about 25 sail, were driven to sea in the gale of the 21st,
which lasted 4 days.” A few days later, on November
28 the same paper provided the following detail, “The
schooner Union, Sayer, of Richmond, was lost in the gale
of October 24; crew saved.” The latter report also mentioned
the loss of an additional unidentified ship which
later proved to be the ship Merino reported in a separate
abstract. Together, over the eight-week period from
August 31 to October 15, there were 17 vessels lost in
the waters around Turks Island and Salt Key, making this
year a most memorable one in the country’s maritime
history. a
James Jenney is the director of research for the Bahamas
Lost Ships Project, which is working in collaboration with
the Bahamas Maritime Museum and Carl Allen of Allen
Explorations. For more information, visit https://www.
bahamasmaritimemuseum.com.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Political trailblazer Clarence T. Jolly Sr. (top left) not only laid the foundation of the political parties today, but also inspired current representation
from his descendants. They are (clockwise from top right): Hon. Zhavargo Jolly, Minister of Tourism, Agriculture, Fisheries and the
Environment; Hon. Kyle Knowles, Minister of Health and Human Services; and Hon. Randy Howell, elected member for Blue Hills.
Political Trailblazer
Clarence Jolly had vision for moving the TCI forward.
By Dr. Carlton Mills and Debby-Lee Mills
Clarence T. Jolly Sr. (as he liked to be known), was a Turks & Caicos man with a vision for moving his
country forward. Sadly, he was perceived by some as an invader of a territory that was apparently reserved
for politicians who had spent their entire lives in the country. His contributions to the TCI, though shortlived,
had a trail-blazing impact, as he undoubtedly laid the foundation for the political parties that exist
today. His contributions must never be forgotten.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Political turmoil is not a strange phenomenon in the
Turks & Caicos Islands (TCI). The country has experienced
numerous turnovers over the course of its history. The
Bermudians occupied the Islands harvesting salt undisturbed
for close to three centuries. As salt generated
insurmountable wealth for investors, the Crown saw the
need to exercise more control over this lucrative industry.
The first attempt at direct Crown control took place
in 1766, followed by linking the TCI with the Bahamas in
1799. This relationship lasted until 1848. It was followed
by a 25-year period of the Presidency (1848–1874). From
1874 to 1962, the Crown placed the TCI under the administration
of Jamaica. Following Jamaica’s independence in
1962, the Crown in 1965 placed the TCI for a second time
under the administration of the Bahamas. It was evident
that something had to be done to bring about stability in
the country.
As the 1970s approached, the Bahamas expressed
their desire for independence from Britain. This was
granted on July 10, 1973. This move by the Bahamas
towards political independence created a huge dilemma
and a deep sense of uneasiness for Turks & Caicos
Islanders residing in the Bahamas since the late 1950s
and early 1960s. Many of these Islanders, men in particular,
had left the TCI at an early age due to the closure of
the salt industry. Salt, the once lucrative economic backbone
of the economy, experienced serious decline due
to global competition and the inability of the salt proprietors
to mechanize the industry. These factors resulted in
the closure of this once-thriving industry in South Caicos
and Grand Turk in 1964 and the eventual closure in Salt
Cay in 1972. The Bahamian rumour mill quickly circulated
the worrisome news that as soon as the Bahamas gained
their independence, all TC Islanders would be deported.
Subsequently, several long-resident TC Islanders made
their way back home even though deportation rumours,
in some cases, did not apply to their situation.
As the Bahamas was transitioning towards political
autonomy, the TCI was also on the verge of internal political
changes in order to start the process of preparing
themselves for the unknown. One such change took place
in 1969 when the Crown amended the 1962 constitution
and introduced a new form of government called the
State Council.
This new body, the State Council, had an Executive
Arm as well as a Legislative Arm. The Legislative Arm
gave advice after consultation with the Executive Arm.
The Administrator wielded all power. If there were any
discrepancies, he could consult with the Governor in the
Bahamas. The Administrator also could establish committees
to conduct certain areas of business at his pleasure.
The life of the State Council ranged from not less than
four years and nine months to not more than five years.
Another major event took place in 1970 when two
outstanding Turks & Caicos Islanders, Clarence Jolly and
George Selver (Senior) returned home from the Bahamas
where they had made significant investments. Mr. Jolly
was born in Bottle Creek, North Caicos on September 14,
1911. He was a family man, who like many men during his
time migrated to the Bahamas at a young age in search of
a better life.
While in the Bahamas, Mr. Jolly engaged in several
business ventures. He set up a shipping company which
traded between Florida, the Bahamas, and the TCI. As
a result, he was able to establish contacts with the TCI
through regular visits to his homeland. Mr. George Selver,
during his tenure in the Bahamas, also engaged in several
business ventures. Being the entrepreneur that he was,
he had established businesses in Grand Turk where he
also took up residence.
Immediately upon his return home in 1970, Mr. Jolly
jumped into action. It was apparent that he had kept
abreast with the political climate back in the TCI. His years
of experience in the Bahamas bolstered his enthusiasm
to stake his claim in the political affairs of his homeland.
His timing was perfect, as one of the members of the
State Council in Grand Turk had to vacate his post due to
health reasons. This opened the door for a by-election.
Mr. Jolly immediately registered to contest the by-election
seat but was unsuccessful in his bid. His loss could have
been because of he not yet being well known by the electorate.
This defeat was not the only challenge that Mr. Jolly
encountered.The fact that he was a Bahamian citizen
stirred up conflict with the current members of the State
Council—the governing political body of the day. They put
the wheels in motion to discredit him. The case was made
that since he possessed dual citizenship, he should not
have been allowed to enter the political arena in the Turks
& Caicos Islands. However, Mr. Jolly’s place of birth was
North Caicos, which gave him ultimate rights to TCI citizenship
and all rights to contest elections. Additionally,
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
there was no election ordinance exempting persons with
dual citizenship at that time.
The State Council members did not stop there. Once
it was widely established what Mr. Jolly’s political intentions
were, he was met with further opposition. The State
Council members accused him and the other men who
had returned to the TCI of indulging in a certain amount
of crude political propaganda during a major sporting
event. The Council members felt that this group was
ultimately setting the stage for their entry into local politics—which
could become a direct threat to their own
future membership in the State Council.
The protest by the State Council members did not end
there. They then engaged in a vigorous in-house debate
over the legitimacy of Clarence Jolly to contest the seat
in the by-election. Members wanted to rule immediately
on this application as a precursor to future applications.
They viewed Mr. Jolly as an “outsider” who came to the
Islands with the sole intention to participate in the local
elections. They intended to guard this process as sacredly
and securely as they possibly could.
The behaviour of the State Council did not sit well
with Mr. Jolly and his group.They felt as if they were being
treated as prophets without honour, respect, and dignity
in their own country.
Following the debate by the State Council, a report
was received from the Supervisor of Elections entitled:
“Re: By-Election—Clarence Jolly.” The report cited the following:
•Clarence Jolly was born in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
His domicile of origin rests therefore in the Islands.
•Mr. Clarence Jolly left the Islands some time ago
and took up residence and commenced business in the
Bahamas. It appears that he acquired domicile of choice
there.
•About twelve months ago, Mr. Jolly became interested
in the development of these Islands. From time
to time, he returned home, residing at his house in
Bottle Creek. He made development proposals to the
Government. He also expressed at the time his intentions
to return home so that he would be able to execute his
plans. At this time, Mr. Jolly’s domicile of choice in the
Bahamas was lost owing to his uncertain future there. His
domicile therefore reverted to domicile of origin being
the Turks & Caicos Islands.
•At that time, Mr. Jolly had two residences (Bahamas
and TCI). He need not actually reside permanently in one
or the other to have resident qualification.
Following the report, the Supervisor of Elections concluded
that Mr. Clarence Jolly was lawfully resident in the
Islands at the time of his constitutional nomination. He
therefore advised that Mr. Jolly was qualified for elected
membership at the by-election which was held on April
15, 1970.
This ruling was the initial spark that re-ignited and
re-energized the political desire of Mr. Jolly and his group.
They pressed forward with their political agenda.
The foregoing political fiasco brought about by the
State Council did not go unnoticed by Britain. Mr. R.N.
Poshett from the Foreign and Commonwealth Office
(FCO), in an unprecedented response, wrote a letter dated
October 21, 1971. His letter echoed dismay at the reaction
of the members of the State Council towards Mr.
Jolly’s actions. He pointed out that the intention behind
the State Council’s behaviour seemed to be that of preserving
control of government of the Islands for the
indigenous inhabitants. In this letter he also pointed out
how difficult it was to wean the State Council away from
this negative way of thinking.
Mr. Poshett further stated that in essence there
seemed to be two matters for clarification that were the
driving force behind the State Council’s extensive discussions
concerning Mr. Jolly. One such matter was the
qualifying period for enfranchisement and for qualification
as a potential elected member of the State Council.
The second issue was whether the right to vote pertained
to an individual ordinarily residing in the Islands five out
of seven years immediately preceding the date of his
nomination.
The Administrator made it unequivocally clear that
the term “residence” means that any Turks & Caicos
Islander who owns a home and spends a few months in
the TCI is qualified to contest a seat in the election.
The following also comprised the qualifications for
electors:
•Be a British subject age 21 or above;
•Resident in the TCI for 12 months preceding the
qualifying date or domiciled and resident in the Islands;
•He or she had to be ordinarily resident in their electoral
district.
In summary, Mr. Poshett’s firm position was that it
was evident that Mr. Jolly was viewed by members of the
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
State Council as a possible political threat because he was
publicly critical of their form of governance at the time.
In January 1972, following the favourable rulings by
the Election Supervisor and the FCO, Mr. Jolly went full
steam ahead in forming the first active political party in
the TCI, a few months ahead of the general election. Mr.
George Selver (Senior) was also instrumental in the formation
of this political party. The two men later gained the
support of State Council member Mr. Headley Durham,
Nathaniel (Bops) Francis, and James A.G.S. McCartney
(JAGS) of Grand Turk. Another key player was Mr. Paul S.
Higgs from Bottle Creek, North Caicos. These men would
also contest seats in their respective constituencies on
behalf of the new political party.
The party now fully established was named the Turks
& Caicos Labour Party (TCLP). They strategically engaged
in holding political meetings throughout the Islands as a
means of marketing the party. Their primary focus was in
Grand Turk where their base was established.
The TCLP officials further embarked on putting a
firm structure in place. They established a Candidates
Selection Committee which was given the responsibility
to choose candidates for the upcoming election to
present to the State Council later in the year. One of its
mandates was to attract foreign investment as a means
of boosting the economic state of the Islands.
Additionally, the TCLP was promoted as being the
“people’s party.” Mr. Jolly explained this meant that
the party was designed and formed for the benefit and
improvement of the entire population. The TCLP promoted
inclusivity. It pledged to give each individual an
equal opportunity to develop himself. According to Mr.
Jolly, the party belonged to the people of the TCI—not to
its founders Clarence Jolly and George Selver.
Its formation was based on the core principle of being
a constructive voice in the Legislative Assembly. The main
intention of the party was to elevate the political level of
thinking and standards of living in the Islands. The ultimate
goal was to put the TCI on the same level politically,
socially, and economically as their partners in the region
so that its people could eventually be on the competitive
global stage. Their goal was to give the people of the TCI
a new self-image, self-worth, and self-awareness.
In the view of the TCLP founders, the current members
of the State Council were mentally obscured and
possessed a darkened view of progress. Their mindset
took the country backwards over 150 years. The TCLP
presented a new vision of progress which would take the
country forward with a new outlook of hope and prosperity.
The essence of the party was captured in the words of
its leader, Clarence Jolly, “The man who waits to be shown
the way is a stupid fellow; but the man who strives to find
the way, he is the one to follow.” (Conch News, 1972)
Mr. Clarence Jolly, being a natural orator, emphasized
the concept of the party as a people’s party in a
letter to the local newspaper, Conch News, in 1972. In
this letter, he expressed delight over the proposed development
for the Islands. He also cautioned that succession
planning must play an integral part in the development
as a way of ensuring opportunities and empowering local
people. In his opinion, this can only come about if the
government identified Turks & Caicos Islanders who are
highly qualified and placed them in top level positions
currently being held by expatriates. He believed such
action would help in gearing locals to be the architects
and designers of their own and the country’s future. He
went on to stress the need for young people to emulate
the high-quality leadership that was being displayed by
members of the TCLP. These men had benefited from
international exposure and were willing to pass on their
knowledge to future generations.
Mr. Jolly not only “talked the talk,” but he also “walked
the walk.” This was noted by the editor of the Conch News
who pointed out that along with his brother and friends,
Mr. Jolly laid the foundation in Bottle Creek for what they
termed “American financed work.” The objective of this
development, according to Mr. Jolly, was to encourage
Turks & Caicos Islanders to become builders, technicians,
and operators in every possible conceivable profession.
In the long run, this would create a more prosperous and
affluent TCI.
During the TCLP’s vigorous all-island campaign, trouble
was brewing under the surface. Two members of the
State Council, Norman Saunders and Hilly Ewing, became
openly vocal and critical in their responses to the formation
of the TCLP. They expressed their concerns in letters
to the local newspaper. Norman Saunders threatened that
if Jolly and Selver thought that with the formation of the
TCLP they will create automatic confidence in investors,
they had better think again. He strongly condemned the
leadership of the party for what he termed “bluffing the
people” and that its formation was premature at the time.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
He further noted that the current Constitution made
no provision to accommodate party politics at the time.
Furthermore, if the TCLP members by any stretch of the
imagination were to win a majority of seats, according
to the Constitution, they could not form a government
nor could they share information that was discussed at
the State Council meetings with party affiliates, as such
information was deemed confidential. This was a tactic to
discourage people from supporting the TCLP.
Despite the aforementioned trials, Mr. Jolly was adamant
in his response to the letters that were written to
the Conch News by both members of the State Council. He
referred to those men as being politically blind and being
unable to effectively lead the TCI. He saw both individuals
as stumbling blocks in moving the country forward. He
noted that, “No one man can stop the wheels of time, no
barrier can stand against the controversial forces of the
people of a country, a people who want to move up with
the changing scenes of the ages.”
This new challenge by members of the State Council
in no way deterred the actions of the TCLP. They went
on to contest the election in September 1972 where Jolly
won his seat in Grand Turk. Paul Higgs of Bottle Creek,
North Caicos also contested the seat for the party in that
constituency but lost by a very slim margin.
The TCLP officials contested the election results. The
Supreme Court held its session in Bottle Creek, North
Caicos. This was an historical event, as for the first time
in the country’s history, the Supreme Court held a hearing
outside of the capital, Grand Turk. Notwithstanding these
efforts, the election results were upheld by the Court.
Despite its best intentions, the Turks & Caicos Labour
Party (TCLP) unfortunately did not stand the test of time.
Internal strife and accusations of financial misappropriations
saw the demise of the first political party of the TCI.
Members of the Grand Turk sect were persistently
critical of Jolly’s leadership. The sad mindset of the day,
“Turks versus Caicos (or Caucos)”, played a major part
in the divisiveness of the Islands. The TCLP politicians in
Grand Turk felt that the party leadership should be someone
from Grand Turk. This negative trend of thought
eventually forced Mr. Jolly out of the party’s leadership
role—a party that he had formed. Mr. Jolly had also
invested excessive time, finances, and energy into creating
the TCLP. To have the party swept out from under his feet
in this form was most disheartening and disingenuous.
Nathaniel Francis,
a Grand Turk member.
also eventually
withdrew from the
party. The now disillusioned
Clarence
Jolly packed up
and returned to the
Bahamas. The once
well-intentioned
and benignant TCLP
finally disintegrated.
This writer is
not in a position to
predict what would
have happened if the
TCLP had survived. Would the party have made a positive
difference? Despite their failure to gain traction, the
movers and shakers of this party must be commended
for their vision, strength, and courage in making such
a political leap at a time when party politics was not the
order of the day in the TCI.
TCI National Hero JAGS McCartney went
on to form the People’s Democratic
Movement (PDM) in 1976 after running in
the 1972 election on the TCLP ticket.
One can only assume that the formation of this party
may have set the foundation for the birth of party politics
in the Islands four years later (1976). In fact, the
Right Excellent James Alexander George Smith McCartney
(JAGS), who contested a seat in the 1972 election on the
TCLP ticket in Grand Turk, went on to form the People’s
Democratic Movement (PDM) in 1976. On the other hand,
Norman Saunders and Nathaniel Francis joined forces
to form the People’s National Organization (PNO), now
the Progressive National Party (PNP). Norman Saunders,
one of the strongest opponents of the TCLP formation,
became the leader of the PNO and Nathaniel (Bops)
Francis became the deputy leader. Headley Durham contested
the election in Grand Turk’s Second District (Over
Back) as an independent candidate but lost to Francis.
Perhaps the opposing individuals registered animosity
against the founding members of the TCLP because
they were not the ones at the forefront, having been
active in the local political arena long before. What was
striking was that—although the leadership of the TCLP
were “raw boned” Turks & Caicos Islanders—they were
still viewed by the local politicians as being “outsiders.”
Their time spent outside the country seemingly erased
any credence bestowed by their place of birth. a
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Museum Matters
Grand Turk events 2025
Grub, Grill, and Good Times
The annual return of this event and the prize raffle are
highly anticipated. The prize list for the raffle improves
every year thanks to the local businesses and individuals
who donate. The date is July 19, 2025. Check our
website and Facebook page for updates.
Children’s Club
We are doing a special project with mosaics. Children
are learning how to do mosaics, and we will be placing
them on the wall in front of the museum. There will be a
three-day session over the summer to give the children
an opportunity to become skillful and create several
mosaics.
Providenciales fundraising
We are in process of a large fundraising initiative for a
new building on Providenciales. The goal is to build a
social institution and venue that is not only a history
and cultural museum, but a place for celebrating, educating,
and engaging visitors.
Please contact us if you are interested in learning
more about this plan and possibly donating. a
This summer’s Museum Children’s Club will include a three-day
workshop on learning how to create mosaics.
Grand Turk’s National Museum location is on Front Street.
Current days & hours of operation:
Grand Turk (Front Street): Hours vary daily, but in general
open on all cruise ship days 9 AM to 1 PM. When
a ship arrives on or after 9 AM, we will open one hour
after arrival for three hours.
Providenciales (The Village at Grace Bay): Open
Tuesday and Thursday, 10 AM to 2 PM.
Both locations include interesting exhibits and artifacts
related to the history and culture of the Islands.
Visit our gift shops for souvenirs, history books, and
locally made products such as baskets, jewelry, salt
products, and more. Days and times of operation are
subject to change, so please check our website or email
us for updated information.
www.tcmuseum.org info@tcmuseum.org
Story & Photos By Museum Director Lisa Talbot
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 75

about the Islands
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, The
Bahamas and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.amnautical.com.
Where we are
The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast
of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —
with The Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and
the Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast.
The country consists of two island groups separated
by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are
the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos and South Caicos. To
the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s
population is approximately 45,000.
Getting here
There are international airports on Grand Turk,
Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic airports
on all of the islands except East Caicos. At this time, all of
the major international carriers arrive and depart from the
Howard Hamilton International Airport in Providenciales,
with a twice-weekly flight from Miami to the Norman B.
Saunders Sr. International Airport in South Caicos.
Language
English.
Time zone
Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time
observed.
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Currency
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks
& Caicos crown and quarter. Credit cards are widely
accepted on Providenciales and international credit cards
such as Visa, Mastercard, and American Express can be
used to make most purchases, as can Cirrus and Plus
bank cards. It’s a good idea to exchange foreign currency
before arriving in the Islands.
Climate
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The
hottest months are September and October, when the
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,
the consistent easterly trade winds somewhat temper the
heat and keep life comfortable, in spite of high humidity.
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing
and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out
in the tropical sun.
Entry requirements
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.
Customs formalities
Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one car-
Times of the Islands Winter 2024/25 77

SEE
THE
DIFFERENCE
OPHTHALMOLOGY CLINIC
Ophthalmologist Dr. Sebastian Guzman is now available
for consultation in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
Dr. Guzman and his team are a group of doctors
representing three generations of ophthalmologists.
They specialize in the diagnosis and treatment of eye
diseases and those linked to the throat, nose, and
ears. At MD OJOS, we have our own equipment,
with all the advantages of a private clinic. We offer
a fast, complete, and comprehensive response to our
patients. We are trained in the application of the
latest technological advances for the correction of
different visual dysfunctions.
NOW OPEN IN REGENT VILLAGE
CALL 809 880 2020
WWW.OJOS.COM.DO
ton of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine,
and some perfume and gift items. The importation of all
firearms including those charged with compressed air
without prior approval in writing from the Commissioner
of Police is strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian
slings, ammunition, controlled drugs and pornography
are also illegal.
Returning residents may bring in $1,000 worth
of merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 35% is
charged on most imported goods along with a 5% customs
processing fee and forms a major source of government
revenue.
Transportation
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting
vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the
left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by
round-abouts at major junctions. Taxis and “jitneys” are
abundant throughout the Islands and many resorts offer
shuttle service between popular visitor areas. Scooter and
electric bicycle rentals are also available.
Telecommunications
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines, mobile and fiber Internet
service, and digital TV. Most resorts and some stores and
restaurants offer wireless Internet connections. Digicel
provides a range of cellular telephone services, digital
TV, mobile home broadband, fiber internet, and other
consulting services. Both offer GSM coverage, but you
may need to activate international roaming before you
arrive. You can buy a local prepaid SIM if you’re primarily
interested in data access and local calls.
Electricity
FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency of 60HZ,
and either single phase or three phase at one of three
standard voltages for residential or commercial service.
FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid
to ensure the highest level of reliability to customers. The
company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and
provides options for customers to participate in two solar
energy programs.
Departure tax
US $35. It is typically included in your airline ticket cost.
Courier service
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on
78 www.timespub.tc

Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is
limited to incoming delivery.
Postal service
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales are
located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, the
Post Office and Philatelic Bureau are on Church Folly. The
Islands are known for their colorful stamp issues.
Media
Multi-channel satellite television is received from the
U.S. and Canada and transmitted via cable or Internet.
There are a number of local radio stations, magazines
and newspapers.
Medical services
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.
Both hospitals offer a full range of services including:
24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,
physiotherapy, and dentistry.
In addition, several general practitioners operate in
the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along
with a number of private pharmacies.
Immigration
A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A
work permit and business license are also required to
work and/or establish a business. These are generally
granted to those offering skills, experience, and qualifications
not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given
to enterprises that will provide employment and training
for Turks & Caicos Islanders.
Government/Legal system
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed
governor, HE Dileeni Daniel-Selvaratnam. She presides
over an executive council formed by the elected local government.
Hon. Charles Washington Misick is the country’s
premier, leading a majority Progressive National Party
(PNP) House of Assembly.
The legal system is based on English Common Law
and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court
of Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final
Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.
Times of the Islands Summer 2025 79

Taxes
There are currently no direct taxes on either income
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,
restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services, and gasoline,
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.
Economy
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of salt.
Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry, and
fishing generate the most private sector income. The
Islands’ main exports are lobster and conch. Practically
all consumer goods and foodstuffs are imported.
The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an
important offshore financial centre, offering services
such as company formation, offshore insurance, banking,
trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.
The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry
and spearheads the development of offshore legislation.
People
Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African
slaves who were brought to the Islands to work in the
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,
Brits, and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.
Churches
Churches are the center of community life and there
are many faiths represented in the Islands including:
Adventist, Anglican, Assemblies of God, Baha’i, Baptist,
Catholic, Church of God, Episcopal, Islam, Jehovah’s
Witnesses, Methodist, and Pentecostal. Visitors are always
welcome.
Pets
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary
health certificate, vaccination certificate, microchip, and
lab test results submitted at port of entry to obtain clearance
from the TCI Department of Agriculture.
Potcake Place is a non-profit dog rescue charity based
in Saltmills Plaza on Providenciales. They adopt out 100%
of all rescues to approved, screened homes throughout
the Turks & Caicos Islands and North America.
National symbols
The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).
The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium
bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The
National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.
bahamensis). The National Costume consists of white cotton
dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing
the various islands are displayed on the sleeves,
sashes, and hat bands. The National Song is “This Land
of Ours” by the late Rev. E.C. Howell. Peas and Hominy
(Grits) with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.
Going green
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling ser-
80 www.timespub.tc

vices through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum,
glass, and plastic. Single-use plastic bags are banned
country-wide. There is also a ban on importation of plastic
straws and some polystyrene products, including cups
and plates.
Recreation
Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors
can choose from deep-sea, reef or bonefishing, sailing,
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba
diving, snuba, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,
mermaid encounters, and beachcombing. Pristine reefs,
abundant marine life, and excellent visibility make TCI
a world-class diving destination. Whale and dolphin
encounters are possible, especially during the winter/
spring months.
Tennis and golf—there is an 18 hole championship
course on Providenciales—are also popular.
The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in
33 national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries and areas
of historical interest. The National Trust provides trail
guides to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours of
major historical sites. Birdwatching is superb, and there
is a guided trail on Grand Turk.
There is an excellent national museum on Grand
Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales that
includes the Caicos Heritage House. A scheduled ferry,
flights to North Caicos,a causeway between North and
Middle Caicos, and a selection of tour operators make it
easy to take day trips to the outer islands.
Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback
riding, and football (soccer). Personal trainers are
available to motivate you, working out of several fitness
centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment
services.
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music at
bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are two
casinos on Providenciales, along with electronic gaming
parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!
Shoppers will find paintings, T-shirts, sports and
beachwear, and locally made handicrafts, including straw
work, conch crafts, and beach jewellery. Duty free outlets
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, leather goods,
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a
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