SUMMER 2025

FREE

The

Good Life France

ISSUE Nọ 42

ISSN 2754-6799

Magazine

Aix-en-Provence

Memories of Cezanne

abound in the sensuous,

sunny city

NICE

Cultural capital of

the French Riviera

GRAND

designs

Historic homes of the rich

and the royals of France

HIDDEN

France

The prettiest and most

authentic villages to fall

in love with

Delicious recipes

Delicious recipes

Bringing you an irresistible

taste Bringing of France you – irresistible including

the taste cheesiest of Francecharmers!

152 pages

Of inspirational features

and gorgeous photos

chalet villa château farmhouse apartment vineyard gîte cottage coast country city

Lot-et-Garonne €997,000

Ref: A28818 - Superb 4-bedroom period

property with woodland and outbuildings.

6% agency fees included paid by the buyer.

Energy class: C Climate class: C

EXCLUSIVE

Corrèze €1,800,000

Ref: A23213 - Beautiful 11-bedroom property

with 4 gîtes and 3 ha of fruit trees and vines.

Agency fees to be paid by the seller.

Energy class: C Climate class: C

EXCLUSIVE

Country Living

Lovely Luberon

Country Estate

Ille-et-Vilaine €737,800

Ref: A36597 - Large 4-bedroom house with

gîtes, outbuildings, and historic ruins.


Energy class: D Climate class: A

Our latest properties for sale in France

Quiet Location

Deux-Sèvres €257,000

Ref: A17176 - 4-bedroom farmhouse with

garden, outbuildings and space for a pool.


Energy class: D Climate class: B

Cosy C o tt a g e

Orne €129,000

Ref: A35882 - Cute 1-bedroom country

cottage with lovely features, in a rural setting.


Energy class: F Climate class: C

Must be viewed!

Dordogne €477,000

Ref: A37145 - Charming 5-bedroom house

with barns and garden in a peaceful setting.


Energy class: C Climate class: A

EXCLUSIVE

Minervois Wine Region

Hérault €345,000

Ref: A36393 - 4-bedroom home with outbuildings,

garden, garage and constructible land.


Energy class: C Climate class: A

EXCLUSIVE

Val-d’Oise €549,000

Ref: A36013 - Charming waterfront 2 bedroom

house with garden and river mooring.


Energy class: F Climate class: F

EXCLUSIVE

All Aboard!

Ski Enthusiasts

Haute-Savoie €745,000

Ref: A29675 - Spacious 6-bedroom chalet

with 3-bedroom apartment and large garden.


Energy class: E Climate class: B

We have helped 1000s of clients buy and sell

property in France and have 8000+ properties

listed on our website. If you are looking to sell,

contact us for a free market appraisal.

The Leggett famil y

+33 (0)5 53 60 84 88 · leggettfrance.com · info@leggett.fr

Information on the risks to which these properties are exposed is available on the Geohazards website: www.georisques.gouv.fr

wel comes you !

Bonjour and bienvenue to The Good Life France Summer

2025 Magazine.

The sun is shining, the lavender is blooming, and our Summer

2025 issue is ready to whisk you away on a journey to the

heart of France.

Discover the lesser-known treasures and timeless splendours

that make France so irresistible from cuisine to culture, and

the most beautiful villages and historic cities. Explore the

quiet charm of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon in the sun-drenched

south and the beautiful town of Auxerre nestled in the heart of

Burgundy. Marvel at the fairy-tale beauty of the Loire Valley

and iconic châteaux like Azay-le-Rideau. Stroll the sunlit

promenades and feast on the authentic dishes of Nice on the

dazzling French Riviera and soak in the artistic soul of Aix-en-

Provence, the beloved city of Cézanne.

We’ll also take you to elegant Saumur and the historic port of

Dieppe; explore the dramatic island beauty of Corsica, the

cultural charm of Poitiers, and breathe in the fresh mountain

air of the Jura. Plus discover our pick of the prettiest villages

and most glorious cities for summer adventures - from chic

Biarritz to irresistible Barfleur in Normandy, seductive Ile de

Ré, historic Le Mans and many more.

This issue also dives deep into France’s fascinating history and

culture. Learn about Madame de Pompadour, the queen without

a crown, and Nostradamus, France’s enigmatic prophet of doom.

Indulge in rich articles on French gastronomy, lifestyle, and the

ever-alluring art de vivre. And find out about the Basilica of Sacre

Coeur’s heavenly, hidden hotel in the heart of Paris

As always, our practical guides are here to help you experience

France like a local, and our mouth-watering recipes from the

crème de la crème of France’s top chefs will bring the joy of

French cuisine to your own kitchen.

The Good Life France Magazine is absolutely free, created with

passion by a team of the very best professional travel writers

who share your love of all things French.

Whether you're planning your next escape or simply dreaming

of France from afar, we’re delighted to have you with us. Let

the adventure begin!

Janine

Janine Marsh

Editor

Bienvenue

Follow us on Twitter,

Instagram & Facebook

The Good Life France | 3

To Subscribe to

THE GOOD LIFE FRANCE MAGAZINE

Click the button below

SUBSCRIBE

The magazine is free to read, download and share

Contributors

Anna Richards is a writer & guidebook

author living in Lyon. Her work has

appeared in Lonely Planet, National

Geographic and many more.

annahrichards.com

Ally Mitchell is a blogger and

freelance writer, specialising in food

and recipes. Ally left the UK to live in

Toulouse in 2021 and now writes about

her new life in France on her food blog

NigellaEatsEverything

Dana Facaros has lived in France

for over 30 years. She is several

guidebooks and the creator of French

Food Decoder app: everything you

want to know about French food

Gillian Thornton is an award-winning

travel writer specialising in French

destinations and lifestyle. Her favourite

place? ‘Usually where I have just been!’

8

CONTENTS

The Good Life France Magazine

No. 42 Summer 2025

ISSN 2754-6799

ON THE COVER

8 Nice, the cultural capital of the

French Riviera

20 things to do in Nice

including visits to the most

gorgeous villages nearby.

18 Aix-en-Provence

Memories of Cezanne abound

in the sensuous, sunny city.

24 Grand designs and

gracious living

Step back in time to discover

imperial and opulent royal

party palaces and sumptuous

chateaux of France.

30 Sunny Village Vibes

Discover seven of the officially

prettiest, most welcoming

and idyllic villages in France –

perfect for a summer visit.

Freelance journalist Karen Tait has

been Editor of French Property News

for over 20 years and contributes to

titles such as The Sunday Times.

Marion Jones is a Paris lover podcaster

(City Breaks) and freelance writer

specialising in places where travel

meets history.

Rudolf Abraham is an award-winning

travel writer, photographer, author

of over a dozen books and has

contributed to many more, and his

articles and images are published

widely in magazines.

rudolfabraham.com

The Good Life France Magazine

Sue Aran is a writer, photographer,

and tour guide living in the Gers

department of southwest France.

She is the owner of French Country

Adventures, which provides personally

guided, small-group, slow travel

tours into Gascony, the Pays Basque,

Provence and beyond.

Front Cover: Cagnes-sur-Mer, by Janine Marsh @thegoodlifefrance

Editor-in-chief: Janine Marsh editor@thegoodlifefrance.com

Editorial assistant: Trudy Watkins

Press enquiries: editor@thegoodlifefrance.com

Advertising: sales@thegoodlifefrance.com

Digital support: websitesthatwork.com

Layout design: Philippa French littlefrogdesign.co.uk

ISSN 2754-6799 Issue 42 Summer 2025

16

30

DISCOVER

36 Sacré Coeur – a heavenly

place to stay

A secret, sacred and spiritual

hotel in the heart of Paris.

40 The French lifestyle

Discover French art de vivre -

antiquing and interior design in

Provence and Paris.

44 Iconic cakes of France

A look at the incredible history

of three of the most prized

pastries of France.

48 Madame de Pompadour

Discover how the ‘queen

without a crown’ influenced

French living!

52 The earliest artistic

masterpieces of France

Glorious cave art reveals

richly painted and engraved

snapshots of life in France

thousands of years ago.

4 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 5

66

80

76

58 The Prince of Gastronomy

The extraordinary life of

Curnonsky, the man who helped

make French cuisine a tourist

industry.

62 Hiking Corsica

Corsica isn’t just beautiful

beaches – it’s legendary mountain

and sea path trails make it one of

Europe’s finest hiking destinations.

66 Le weekend in Dieppe,

Normandy

Discover France’s first ever seaside

resort.

70 Summer in the City

3 Fabulous cities to visit for their

history, heritage, culture and

gastronomy: Biarritz, Rochefort,

Le Mans.

76 The dreamiest castle in the

Loire Valley

The fairy tale pretty chateau of

Azay-le-Rideau celebrates its

500th anniversary.

80 Auxerre, Burgundy

The ancient town offers a

beguiling mix of the arts and

indulgent cuisine.

86 The Great Escape – natural

wonders of the Jura

Waterfalls, slow food and Vin

Jaune in eastern France.

92 Secret France –

Villeneuve-les-Avignon

A little gem of a village just a

stone’s throw from the Papal city

of Avignon.

96 Nostradamus

We explore the life of France’s

prophet of doom and looks at

some of his predictions for 2025.

100 Spotlight on Saumur

Just 3 hours south of Paris,

Saumur has oodles of charm.

106 Reinventing French cuisine

Dive into the world of French

gastronomy.

116

146

128

110 Timeless Poitiers

A laidback historic city with highoctane

thrills on the doorstep.

PHOTO SPECIALS

120 France Calendar

Summer in France.

REGULARS

116 Seasonal France

3 Super summer break destinations:

Angers, Le Touquet, Royan.

122 What’s new

All the news and events you need

for your next trip to France.

150 Last word

Life in a rural community – how fate

led to a new life in France.

GUIDES

126 How to learn French online

Our recommendation to help you

learn French.

128 Spotlight on Hautes-Pyrénées

A land of outstanding nature and a

slower pace of life.

134 Find your dream home

How a buyer’s agent can help you.

136 Moving to France checklist

Top tips for moving to France –

from an expert.

138 Discover the Languedoc

The sunniest region in France is a

great place to live.

BON APPÉTIT

145 Salted butter caramel spread

An irresistible taste of France.

146 Crème brulée

A firm French favourite for almost

400 years.

148 Chicken Cordon Bleu

A classic French and utterly

delicious dish.

4 Subscribe to The Good Life

France Magazine

Everything you want to know about

France and more – subscription is

totally free.


A taste of NICE

Culture & cuisine on

D’AZUR2

the colourful

CÔTE

Nice is one of France’s most visited cities,

and it’s easy to see why, says Janine Marsh.

With its sun-kissed Bay of Angels lapped by

the lapis lazuli coloured Mediterranean sea,

palm trees swaying gently in the warm breeze,

cobbled streets of the old town lined with

colourful old buildings, magnificent markets,

multiple museums, a castle atop a hill, and the

mouth-watering local cuisine. Nissa La Bella,

as the locals call it (Nice the Beautiful), has

oodles of charm.

A little bit of history

Visit Nice today, and it’s hard to remember that

around 100 years ago, Nice was a small fishing

village. In the surrounding hills, farmers grew

vegetables, the sort that could endure the hot

summer sun. Going back even further, Nice took

its name from Greek settlers who arrived around

350 BC and called it Nikaia after the Greek

Goddess of victory, Nike. Long before that,

tribes settled here as far back as 400,000 BC.

Nice harbour

The Romans were here too – they knew a

good thing when they saw it, and settled the

area we know today as Cimiez, where remains

of a Roman baths complex can be seen.

Nice swung between French and Italian rule

for centuries – finally becoming French in

1861 – but, so close to Italy, the dolce vita

is firmly entrenched in its DNA – combined

with French joie de vivre – it’s a heady mix!

In the mid-18th century, the British elite, on

their Grand Tours (similar to a gap year),

found it to be an ideal winter sun destination.

When a prominent writer and doctor named

Tobias Smollett wrote about the area’s warm

winters and fresh air, which was beneficial

to health, Nice became extremely popular

and was established as the first winter resort

area in the world. When Queen Victoria

visited, that was it – the equivalent of a travel

influencer of 200 years ago, she inspired

anyone who was anyone to go and allegedly

claimed on her deathbed, “Oh, if only I were

at Nice, I should recover.”


Palm trees on the promenade

Place Rossetti dates to the 16th century

influenced by Franco-Italian Renaissance style.

Queen Victoria loved Nice, where she would

often holiday in the winter months, meeting up

with other European royals – her cousin King

Leopold of Belgium, for instance, and Wilhelm

II, Emperor of Germany and her grandson. It

became more of a holiday destination than

a place to convalesce. The Queen liked to

travel in disguise, calling herself Countess of

Balmoral, but she fooled no one. For a start,

she travelled with 100 staff and, upon arrival,

booked 80 rooms at the Hotel Regina. It’s still

there, and glorious, though now it’s a private

apartment block. There’s also a sweet shop

in Nice which looks just like it did when the

Queen went there for her bonbons.

A sweet shop fit for a queen

A Taste of Provence. © Exquisite, all-inclusive, small group tours

to Provence and beyond

“If you have ever

considered culinary

tourism, Goût et Voyage

will be the trip of your

dreams. Excellence

at every turn!”

DS, NY

www.goutetvoyage.com

Nice has UNESCO-listed heritage status

thanks to its historic winter tourism status.

The early British visitors to Nice were not so

fond of the old town - it didn’t suit their refined

tastes, so they developed their own playground

around the Cours Saleya square which hosts a

marvellous market. They created the 4.3 mile

long Promenade des Anglais around the Baie

des Anges (the Bay of Angels, so called as a

local legend claims that angels guided Adam

and Eve to the bay after they were exiled

from Eden) paid for with money raised by the

Anglican church of Nice and completed in

1824. And they built palaces and mansions.


But when the spring came, they all left, and

Nice became quiet again. Until the early 1920s,

when wealthy Americans arrived and attracted

artists of the day, including Picasso, Cocteau,

Man Ray, and F. Scott Fitzgerald. And Nice

became the place to go in summer, too.

And it remains a year-round destination.

What to see and do

Nice is a city of the senses, sights, sounds,

smells, touch and taste.

Apollo Fountain, Place Masséna

Baccarat Chandelier at the Negresco Hotel

Chef Alain at Atelier Cuisine Niçoise

It’s hard to do justice to the colours of Nice,

the black and white checked Place Masséna

with its fountain featuring the Greek Sun God

Apollo, the marbled entrance to the winding

cobbled streets of the old town where laundry

flutters above the narrow alleys, lined with

bright terracotta-coloured buildings, the

glittering rays of the sun reflected on the

waves, a hint of salt in the sea air, the sweet

perfume of bougainvillea that tumbles from

balconies and festoons walls, the harbour with

its white-sailed yachts and colourful wooden

boats – all under an azure blue sky – the

intensity of the colours is striking.

The buzz of the pedestrianised market

of Cours Saleya (Tuesday to Sunday), an

Italianate square lined with restaurants; the

sound of birds singing in the trees along the

promenade and of the waves crashing on the

pebble beach; and the surprising sound of the

noonday cannon. Yes, you read that right! In

1861, Englishman Thomas Coventry persuaded

the city of Nice to fire a cannon from the hill

of the Castle to mark the hour of noon. It was

said Mr Coventry wished to remind his wife it

was lunchtime, as she was often late returning

from her morning walk, distracted by Nice’s

many charms and also being a rather talkative

woman—good story but… not true. Mr

Coventry simply had a passion for chronology!

In 1867, he handed over his cannon to the city;

a decree was passed that it should continue to

be fired at noon. These days it’s a firework you

hear, but – it can still make you jump!

Entry from the new town to the old town

featuring magnificent trompe l'oeil marble walls

Art and culture

Nice has long been a source of inspiration for

artists – Chagall, Renoir, Dufy, and many more

have been captivated by the colour and light.

There are multiple museums and galleries

in Nice (second only to Paris), including the

Musée Matisse, which features a collection of

paintings spanning from 1890 to the gouache

drawings that Matisse produced at the end of

his life. The artist lived in Nice for 27 years and

retired to nearby Vence, where he designed a

chapel which he considered to be the greatest

work of his life.

For something unique – head to the Negresco

hotel, a legendary landmark in the city, and

the choice of the rich and famous since it

opened in 1913 - including Queen Elizabeth

II, James Dean, Grace Kelly and the Beatles.

Either stay as a guest (very expensive), or

indulge in a meal in one of the two restaurants

and you’ll be able to view the hotel’s

private art collection of more than 6000

pieces spanning five centuries, including a

magnificent Baccarat chandelier with 16,000

crystals – a gift from Czar Nicholas II.

A Taste of Nice

Cours Saleya, lined with

restaurants and, at the

far end, the yellow house

where Matisse once lived

For me, one of the best ways to really

experience a place is via the local cuisine,

and in Nice, you really are in for a treat.

Cuisine Nicoise is unique – a blend of Italian

The mouth-watering lunch we prepared

and Provençal flavours in traditional recipes

handed down from generation to generation.

At the Atelier Cuisine Niçoise, a cooking

class in a 16 th century building in the old town,

you’ll learn about, make and eat some of

the traditional dishes. It’s food that ordinary

people have eaten for centuries, not haute

cuisine. It’s about the produce that comes

from the land that a family could grow for

themselves, fish for, forage or afford at

the market. The vegetables came from the

mountains: artichokes, chard, onions, olives,

herbs, and garlic. These vegetables, along with

salad and chickpeas, can be used in a variety

of ways, including to make flour, which is used

to make socca (a flatbread mixed with water,


salt, and olive oil). Piedmontese cuisine also

had an influence, introducing potatoes for

gnocchi. Meat was reserved for Sundays after

mass, or for festival days.

My lesson with Alain the chef included pan

bagnat, a bread roll drenched in olive oil

and balsamic vinegar, and filled with finely

chopped seasonal vegetables, fresh broad

beans, and basil leaves. Then we made a

simple pastry for pissaladière, a caramelised

onion tart decorated with salty anchovies and

piquant black olives.

Then gnocchi – chickpea flour, minced boiled

potato and chard dough, hand-rolled into

sausage shape and cut into small pieces

(which locals refer to as ‘merde de chien!)

served piping hot with pistou - a staple of the

south - an olive oil, garlic and basil sauce.

“There’s no such thing as too much olive

oil”, said Alain as he poured with abandon.

“Nicoise cuisine is like the people of Nice

– colourful, generous, joyful.” I suspect the

people of Nice also have olive oil in their veins.

Stroll through the old town at

dusk and the aromas of garlic and

basil fill the air

Maison de Marie

Nice is all about food, and the city has so

many restaurants that it gives Lyon (AKA the

capital of gastronomy) a run for its money,

and thanks to the seemingly endless sunshine,

there are more tables outside than inside most

of the year round. Restaurants with the Cuisine

Nissarde label serve authentic cuisine of Nice.

Locals Love: Maison de Marie, tucked away

a tiny walk from Place Massena, through an

arch which emerges into a stunning courtyard.

There are no namby-pamby portions here,

generous food, indulgent and epicurean -

impossible to resist. “Food of the Gods”, my

gourmet dad would have said with relish.

Nice: roasted peppers, stuffed tomatoes,

panises - chick pea chips, polenta, pisaladiere,

green and black tapenade, chickpeas, meaty

mushrooms in a pesto sauce and a few more

things. Do not eat before you go there!

Restaurant Felix –

Belle Epoque glamour

Don’t miss: Restaurant, bar (including a

speakeasy!) Felix – stunning décor, think

Belle Epoque deluxe, superb menu, great

ambience and excellent cocktails (DJ sets

on weekends).

LE MOULIN

SUR CÉLÉ

Where to stay: The lovely Hotel la Villa is just a

couple of minutes’ walk from the old town.

Discover what to see and do in Nice and its

surroundings: explorenicecotedazur.com

Basket shop in the old town

An enchanting luxurious riverside retreat in the beautiful Célé Valley

Experience la France Profonde

www.lemoulinsurcele.com

A taste of Nice at Lu Fran Calin

Love local: Lu Fran Calin in the old town

where I can highly recommend the tasting

platter if you fancy an authentic taste of


7

things to

not miss in Nice

☀ A money-saving 24h, 48h, or 72h French

Riviera Pass is a must for activities in and

around Nice. It includes guided tours on

foot, by petit train, bus and boat, plus

museum entry, wine tasting and dozens

more experiences: frenchrivierapass.com

☀ The hop-on-hop-off bus tour is excellent

for getting around Nice and stops in 12

prime locations, including neighbouring

Villefranche-sur-Mer.

☀ Indulge in an ice cream; the Italian

influence is strong and delicious. Try

Fennochio (with around 100 flavours,

this is the locals’ favourite) in lively Place

Rossetti.

☀ Shopping fans will be in their element –

you’ll find high street stalwarts, several

shopping malls and high spenders’

favourites like Louis Vuitton and Chanel.

☀ Climb to the top of the Colline du

Chateau, little of the castle remains, but

the breath-taking views from what is now

a park, over the sea and the city, make

the trek worthwhile.

☀ Nice is a brilliant base for day trips – Cagnes-sur-Mer (just 25 minutes by train from

Nice Ville), is a coastal town where the sea meets art history – the painter Renoir

lived here, and his former home is now a museum (more coming up on this town in the

Autumn issue of the magazine).

☀ Local, Kevin Sutherland, owner of Villa Lou Patio, a gorgeous holiday rental 20km from

Nice recommends nearby St-Paul-de-Vence, one of the must-see perched villages

of Provence. “Follow the self-guided walking route through the squares and alleys of

this strategic border stronghold that was protected with ramparts in the 16th century

on the orders of François 1 and discover the story of its heritage buildings and famous

residents revealed in some 20 interpretation panels” he says. “Actor and singer Yves

Montand loved to play pétanque in the Place du Jeu de Boules; 20th century artists

like Matisse and Picasso regularly met in the Colombe d’Or; and artist Marc Chagall is

buried in the cemetery with his wife Vava.”

Villa Lou Patio

The perfect base for exploring the French Riviera

Pool – garden – 4 ensuite bedrooms

Perfectly located, just minutes from St Paul de Vence

Villaloupatio.com

Experience France

France Travel - Savoir faire

www.ophorus.com

15% off shared

tour day trips

booked online -

use code:

FRANCEWITHOPHORUS

Day tours, packages, shore excursions

and private group tours across France


A Painter’s Provence:

In the Footsteps of

Cezanne in

Aix-en-Provence

In the soft golden light of Provence, where

fountains gurgle beneath stately plane

trees and the scent of lavender mingles with

the tang of ripe tomatoes at vibrant street

markets, Aix-en-Provence beckons. This

elegant jewel of the south, once the capital of

Provence, offers not only elegant charm but a

rich cultural legacy shaped by its most famous

son, says Janine Marsh as she explores the

city of Paul Cezanne.

Paint your own memories

of Aix

The colourful, vibrant city wakes early, and by

8 am, the markets are in full swing. The market

in Place Richelme bursts with colour and

life: pyramids of tomatoes, pots of tapenade

and crusty loaves still warm from the oven.

Locals chat in Provençal-accented French,

filling baskets with fresh produce, olives and

goat cheese. The scent of roasting chickens

mingles with fragrant blooms at the next-door

flower market. In the evening, say locals Abi

and Pierre, who run idreamProvence guided

tours of Provence, “this quaint square is the

perfect spot for an aperitif and a popular

place for locals to gather and enjoy a sense of

togetherness and happiness.”

Cours Mirabeau, Aix’s leafy central boulevard,

is ideal for lingering. Moss-covered fountains

flow gently, and chestnut trees offer cool

shade. The sun-warmed ochre walls of the

magnificent baroque mansions are adorned

with sculpted facades, and tables spill out

onto the pavement for diners to sit and watch

the world go by.

Wander up the Cours Mirabeau and you’re

walking straight through Cézanne’s childhood.

His parents ran a hat shop here once (the

faded sign can still be seen on the wall), and

just a few doors down is the legendary café

Les Deux Garçons, where Cézanne and his

friend the writer Emile Zola used to while away

the evenings. It’s currently closed due to a fire,

but there are rumours it will reopen in 2026.

It was at the nearby Mignet school that young

Cézanne stood up to bullies to defend Zola,

who repaid him with an apple. Some say it’s

what inspired the humble fruit to become

one of Cézanne’s obsessions, appearing

again and again in his still life paintings. The

church where Cezanne was baptised a month

after his birth in 839, the town hall where

he married French artist’s model Hortense,

and the modest apartment on rue Boulegon

(marked by a plaque) where he died on 22

October 1906. There are memories on every

Place Richelme at night

18 | The Good Life France Market in Place Richelme


corner; the city feels like a living, breathing

museum of his life.

His atelier on Lauves Hill is a short walk from

the city centre. In the two-roomed studio,

surrounded by aromatic pine trees, olive

orchards and vineyards, Cezanne worked

from 1902 until his death. Upstairs, it feels

as though he has just stepped out, his easel,

paint-stained smock, and even some of

the original still life objects he painted are

bathed with soft light from the tall windows.

Abi says you can ‘feel Cezanne’s presence.

It’s a haunting, intimate glimpse into the

artist’s world. To be inside his studio and see

his possessions, the spots in his garden where

he chose to paint different facets of the

landscape of Provence, choosing different

shades at different times of the year. It feels

like being part of his life in this beautiful,

secluded area.” A restoration of the ground

floor kitchen, as it was in Cezanne’s day, is

ongoing and due to reopen gradually from the

summer of 2025.

Just ten minutes further on, you’ll find the

Jardin des Ateliers, with one of the most iconic

views in all of France, the Montagne Sainte-

Victoire. This jagged, moody mountain was

Cézanne’s muse and obsession. Says Abi,

“The scene changes hour by hour, rose hues

at dawn, shimmering in the noon heat of a

summer’s day, golden at dusk. From here, you

can appreciate and understand why Cezanne

had such an obsession with the mountain.”

Montagne Sainte-Victoire

Atelier des Lauves

Then there’s the Bibémus Quarries, a

childhood playground turned lifelong

inspiration. You can still see the little stone

hut where Cézanne stored his paints and

canvases. The ochre cliffs and arches are

frozen mid-collapse, like ancient sculptures

holding their breath. Take a guided tour just

before sunset to admire the radiant colours -

it’s utterly transporting.

Cezanne’s inspiration was the palette of the

world he saw before him – earth tones and red

ochre, olive green, vibrant orange, carmine

and burnt Sienna, cobalt blue and ripe plum.

What fascinated him wasn’t just the beauty of

Provence, but its structure. He saw buildings

as blocks of colour, trees as vertical strokes,

and landscapes as puzzles of light and form.

His style laid the foundations for Cubism and

earned him the admiration of Picasso, who

famously called him “the father of us all.”

But during his lifetime, few recognised his

genius. In fact, he hardly sold a painting

and rarely signed his work, considering

it unfinished. Towards the end of his life

recognition came from fellow artists, Monet

was the first to buy a Cezanne – for 50 Francs

(about 8 euros). But when the city’s museum

Musee Granet was offered paintings after his

death, director Henri Pontier sniffily declined,

stating that Cezanne’s art would enter the

museum only over his dead body, a policy

which was followed for decades.

However, in 2025, Aix will host a range

of events celebrating its prodigal painter

with a blockbuster exhibition at the Musée

Granet, featuring over 130 works gathered

from around the world, including paintings,

drawings, and watercolours, all created in

and around Cezanne’s family home, Jas

de Bouffan.

Cezanne’s 4 Seasons, Spring, Summer, Autumn Winter, circa 1860 Oil painting on plaster wall, laid down and mounted on canvas;

Petit Palais, Museum of Fine Arts of the City of Paris, Gift of the heirs of Ambroise Vollard, 1950 © Grand Palais Rmn/Bulloz Agency

The stone hut Cezanne rented in Bibémus Quarries

20 | The Good Life France Bibémus Quarries © Aix-en-Provence © photo M. Fraisset


Jas de Bouffan, Aix-en-Provence © photo Michel Fraisset

The 18th-century mansion was purchased

by Cezanne’s father in 1859. By then he had

made a fortune in banking, having abandoned

the hat business. At Jas de Bouffan Cezanne

painted some of his earliest works – on the

walls of the Grand Salon. Those murals were

later cut out and sold (for a pittance), and the

walls were papered over.

Now owned by the city and lovingly restored

the house will reopen in June 2025. You’ll be

able to see projections of his original paintings

on the walls of the grand salon, and wander

the gardens that once saw Cézanne hunched

over his sketchpad. It’s here that Cezanne

painted his card player series, one of which

sold for a whopping $250 million in 2011 – a

far cry from Monet’s 50 Franc bargain. Book

ahead for guided tours of the interior of the

elegant mansion with its typically Provencal

blue-grey shutters. And leave time to visit

the gardens, which though smaller than in

Cezanne’s time, are full of reminders of his

paintings, from the square pond to the statues.

And if all that art appreciation leaves you

peckish, I suggest the glorious Villa Gallici just

Food art, Villa Gallici

a short walk away. Chef Christophe Gavot has

whipped up a Cezanne-themed menu that’s

as inspired as it is delicious. Think rich, sunblushed

flavours and the kind of plating that

deserves a round of applause.

Aix has a timeless quality, perfect for a

hefty dose of rich culture, joie de vivre and

outstanding gastronomy – a city that satisfies

your soul.

Find out more at:

aixenprovencetourism.com/en

4* family-owned

hotel and restaurant

Exceptional service &

stylish rooms, suites and

cottages plus pool &

gorgeous gardens

A truly unique & authentic

Provence experience in a

stunning location

Les Baux de Provence

Benvengudo.com


fortresses included comfortable apartments

for the lord and lady of the manor. Discover

the daily life of the Dukes of Normandy at

Falaise Castle, birthplace of William 1 of

England, through computer-generated images

and films.

Nor did you have to be a duke to be

comfortable. The 14 th century Donjon de Bours

in Pas de Calais is a sandstone tower house

with six turrets fringed by the remains of the

original moat. A rare example of a knight’s

residence, the interior display shows daily

life during the Hundred Years War between

England and France.

Living it up by the Loire

Vaux-le-Vicomte, the largest privately owned château in France

Royal Château of Blois © Gillian Thornton

GRACIOUS Living

From elegant town houses to lavishly

decorated Châteaux, France boasts luxury

properties in all shapes and sizes. The

aristocratic residences around Paris and the

Loire Valley are internationally famous, but

high-end houses pop up all over the country.

Romans and Medieval

Luxury living did not start with the

Renaissance. In the golden age of the Roman

Empire, well-to-do citizens lived in sprawling

villas with intricate mosaic floors and interior

courtyards. Imagine their lifestyle through

artefacts and reconstructions at NarboVia

museum in Narbonne in Occitanie; amongst

the Roman remains at Vaison La Romaine

in Provence; and at the museum and

archeological site of Saint-Romain-en-Gal in

the Rhône Valley.

When the Romans left, standards slipped a

bit, but by the Middle Ages, many French

Donjon de Bours © Gillian Thornton

But the big surge in grand residences began

in the late 15 th century with the start of the

French Renaissance, inspired by the art

and culture movement in Italy. French kings

began to build royal palaces in the Loire

Valley, preferring to spend their time in the

clean air and countryside rather than in Paris.

And where royalty went, so the aristocracy

followed, building sumptuous properties of

their own.

Favourite residence of seven kings and ten

queens, the Royal Château at Blois is the

perfect introduction to the French monarchs

and their lifestyle with its four wings from

different periods. Experience the interior styles


Despite its 282 fireplaces,

Chambord was so vast, it was

rarely warm in the castle.

through augmented reality on a HistoPad

tablet, also available at the Château de

Chambord. Commissioned by 16 th century

King François I as a party palace, this vast

turreted castle was only furnished when the

monarch arrived to host hunting parties and

balls. Louis XIV stayed at Chambord in the 17 th

century and today the Royal Apartments are

decorated in 18 th century style.

Every Loire Valley Château, large and small,

has its own USP. The Château de Cheverny,

for instance, has always been occupied, so

its ornate interior contains furnishings and

collectables from many different periods.

More modest in size but thoroughly magical

with its turrets and moat, the fairy tale castle

of Azay-le-Rideau celebrates its 500 th

anniversary this year with a programme of

exhibitions, illuminations and concerts.

And the Renaissance exterior of Château de

Candé hides an early 20 th century interior

commissioned by American industrialist

Charles-Eugène Bedaux. Stone balcony look

familiar? Wallis Simpson and the Duke of

Windsor married at Candé in 1937, posing for

photos at the top of the exterior stairs. Step

inside to visit the scene of this historic wedding

and discover the secrets of Wallis’s wardrobe.

Grand Designs

Perhaps inevitably, the largest properties

cluster around the capital, some built from

Inside Wallis Simpson’s

wardrobe at the Château de

Candé © Gillian Thornton

scratch, others the result of major remodelling

across the centuries. Some had royal owners,

others imperial, whilst a few grand houses

personified the aspirations of upwardly mobile

owners, such as Nicolas Fouquet, Finance

Minister to the young Louis XIV.

Fouquet held a lavish party at his new home,

Vaux le Vicomte, set in an extravagant

landscaped park south-east of Paris, but far

from being impressed, his royal boss was

insanely jealous. Fouquet was imprisoned on

Château of Azay-le-Rideau

Dining at Vaux-le-Vicomte –

enough to make a king jealous

fraud charges and Louis employed Fouquet’s

architect and garden designer to build him

something even better, the palace we now

know as Versailles, west of the capital.

The ‘Sun King’ commissioned an enormous

Stunning décor and furnishings at the Palace of Fontainbleau

palace and park, the ultimate in 17 th century

bling as befitted a style-obsessed court that

followed the monarch’s every whim. Anything

but homely in atmosphere, it is nevertheless

one of France’s must-see Châteaux. So too is

the Palace of Fontainebleau, a royal residence

from the Middle Ages to the 19 th century.

Renaissance king François 1 turned the town’s

medieval castle into an Italianate royal palace

that became an Imperial palace after the

Revolution and, in 1814, was the scene of

Napoleon 1’s abdication.

North of Paris, the vast Château of

Compiegne also had a royal pedigree, built by

Louis XV and Louis XVI, but remodelled under

Napoleon I and Napoleon III. Visit the lavish

apartments of the First and Second Empire

that contain many of the original furnishings

and imagine yourself as one of the 100 guests

invited every autumn by Napoleon III for a

month of hunting, excursions and concerts.

Further afield

There are enough castles around Paris and the

Loire to delight the most enthusiastic heritage

fan, but every region has its own desirable

properties. Between Paris and la Loire, the


Château of Villandry © Gillian Thornton

valley of le Loir is home to the sumptuous

Château du Lude, a medieval fortress that

was transformed into a Renaissance stately

home and further enhanced in the 18 th and 19 th

centuries. Owned by the same family for more

than 260 years, the house, garden and park

offer a real family day out.

Normandy too is rich in stylish homes, some

containing unexpected gems. The elegant 18 th

century Château de Vendeuvre houses the

largest collection of miniature furniture in the

world, displayed in scale-model room sets.

More than 700 small pieces including inlaid

wardrobes, grandfather clocks and even an

ornate cat bed.

Other properties have unique stories to tell. In

1386, Château de Carrouges was the scene of

the last legal duel ordered by the High Court

of Justice in Paris, a story of honour brought

to the big screen by Ridley Scott in his 2021

movie The Last Duel starring Matt Damon,

Adam Driver and Jodie Comer.

And the Château d’Eu on the Normandy

coast was the favourite summer residence of

King Louis-Philippe. Here he twice welcomed

Queen Victoria, first British monarch to visit

France since Henry VIII. Visit the historic

scene of the first entente cordiale and stroll

through the park and formal gardens.

Desirable plots

Châteaux frequently stood in large, wooded

parks, but some are renowned for the size and

intricacy of

their formal

gardens.

Villandry in

the Loire

Valley is

internationally

famous,

replanted

in the early

20 th century

to showcase

French garden

art across the

ages through

The kitchen of the Château de Chenonceau

seven themed

gardens. Expect geometric planting, topiary,

water features and a whole lot more.

And at the Château de Chenonceau, recall the

lives of two royal ladies as you walk amongst

the topiary and flowers. Two contrasting

gardens were created in the 16 th century for

Diane de Poitiers, mistress of Henri II, and later

by his wife Catherine de’ Medici who reclaimed

the Château from Diane on her husband’s

death. Floral displays inside the Château are

all assembled from home-grown blooms.

But few castle gardens enjoy quite as much

sunshine as the pink and white Belle Epoque

property of Château d’Ephrussi de Rothschild.

Overlooking the Mediterranean at Saint-Jean-

Cap-Ferrat, its lavish interior is matched by

nine themed gardens where fountains dance to

music and every turn in the path offers a new

view. House and garden envy off the scale!

Embark on a Timeless Journey:

Discover the Soul of the Loire Valley

Unveil the secrets of ancient châteaux

and savor the enchanting landscapes

with our expertly guided tours

loirevalleychateautours.com/tours


Roussillon, officially one of the prettiest villages in France

Barfleur © Gillian Thornton

Sunny Village Vibes

Soak up the summer sun in idyllic villages officially classified as ‘the most beautiful

in France.’ Gillian Thornton suggests some of her favourites to tempt travellers over

the summer months.

Readers of The Good Life France Magazine

Spring issue will already be familiar with Les

Plus Beaux Villages de France, an association

formed in 1982 in an attempt to reverse

the exodus from historic rural communities

(read the article here). Today, there are

180 members spread across 70 French

departments, all selected according to strict

criteria and reviewed regularly.

Now, thanks to new craft studios and

hospitality businesses, restaurants and activity

providers, these idyllic villages are welcoming

new visitors and permanent residents, all

in search of an authentic lifestyle in scenic

surroundings. To find out more, visit www.

plus-beaux-villages-de-france.com where

you can also buy the 2025 English language

edition of the official guidebook and the

Michelin PBV map.

Barfleur, Manche

Only a small number of PBVs sit directly

on the French coast, a situation that

immediately sets them apart from other

members. Located on the tip of the Cotentin

peninsula, 28km east of Cherbourg, Barfleur

is also unusual for its historic links with

St Etienne Church, Ars-en-Ré

England. In 1066, Matilda of Flanders, wife of

William, Duke of Normandy, commissioned

the building of the flagship Mora at this

important medieval port, and in 1120, the

only son of Henry I of England drowned

here, changing the course of English history.

Plundered several times in the 15 th and 16 th

centuries, the medieval town has largely

disappeared, but the quays around Barfleur’s

pretty fishing harbour are a delightful place to

watch the world go by, overlooked by granite

houses and the tower of Saint-Nicolas Church.

Ars-en-Ré,

Charente-Maritime

If Barfleur is unusual for being beside the sea,

Ars-en-Ré is not only by the sea but also one

of just four Plus Beaux Villages located on

an island. Piana and Sant’Antonino stand on

the rugged Mediterranean island of Corsica

whilst Ars-en-Ré and La Flotte lie amongst the


salt marshes of Ile de Ré, a holiday paradise

just off the Atlantic coast near La Rochelle.

One of the island’s oldest parishes, Ars-en-

Ré is famous for the black and white spire of

St Etienne church that served as a landmark

for seafarers. The picturesque whitewashed

village with its green and blue shutters was

once a thriving salt port, but whilst salt is still

harvested here, the harbour is now a favourite

berth for leisure craft. Stroll the narrow streets

lined with colourful hollyhocks and hire a bike

to cycle the level trails between ocean and

salt marsh.

Charroux, Allier

Located at the junction of Roman roads

crossing the Auvergne, Charroux became an

important Medieval village that continued

to flourish through the Renaissance, thanks

to an advantageous trading charter, regular

markets and thriving industries in tanning and

wine production. Soak up the atmosphere

of the bijou central square, the Cours des

Dames, surrounded by a semi-circle of stone

houses. Wander the historic streets past bell

towers and city gates, half-timbered houses

and ancient wells. And enjoy the view from the

belvedere over the Peyrou plateau. Popular

purchases from the many craft studios and

independent boutiques include edible oils and

local mustard; scented candles; jewellery;

ceramics; and art. Discover the historical

background to this thriving community at the

village museum.

Ars-en-Ré

late 18 th century from the local quarry, one of

the world’s most significant deposits. Today,

there is little demand for this natural colouring

so visitors can follow the Ochre Trail through

the disused quarry to see where wind and water

have sculpted the soft rock into extraordinary

shapes. Visit the Ochre Conservatory too for

the lowdown on this natural pigment as well as

traditional plant dyes.

Pérouges, Ain

Roussillon

Roussillon, Vaucluse

Few of France’s Most Beautiful Villages

can match Roussillon for its vibrant colour

palette. One of the famous perched villages

of the Luberon, 50km east of Avignon, this

technicolour gem is guaranteed to dazzle in

any season with its narrow streets of tightly

packed houses in brilliant shades of red and

yellow, orange and pink. A natural pigment

once used in paints, ochre was extracted in the

Charroux © Gillian Thornton

Perched on a small hill around 40km northeast

of Lyon, this medieval walled town is

a time-capsule with cobbled streets, halftimbered

houses and window boxes packed

with colourful blooms. Stay over in one of

the atmospheric hotels or apartments to

experience the atmosphere before and

after day visitors arrive. Just 80 people live

within the ramparts, with a further 1200

beyond the fortifications. As you browse the

small boutiques or soak up the atmosphere

from a café table, you half expect to see

Roussillon

people in medieval dress come round the

corner. And during the second weekend in

June, that is exactly what you will see as

Pérouges celebrates its Medieval Festival

with knights and camp followers, nobles,

peasants and tradesmen, all dressed in

period costume.


Lyons-la-Forêt © Gillian Thornton

Lyons-la-Forêt, Eure

Deep in the heart of a huge beech forest,

40km east of Rouen, Lyons-la-Forêt is an

enchanting mix of red brick buildings and

half-timbered houses, typical of the 17 th

and 18 th century Norman style. At its heart

inPlace Benserade, an 18 th century covered

market on wooden pillars still hosts a variety

of stalls each week. Henry I of England died

at the castle that once stood here on an old

feudal mound, and composer Maurice Ravel

frequently stayed here, writing some of his

most beautiful music at a house called La

Fresne. Today there are tearooms, restaurants,

and antique shops to help visitors while away

a few hours. Or maybe stroll down beside the

Lieure river to visit the church of Saint-Denis.

Pérouges © Marilou Perino, Pérouges-Bugey Tourism

Bruniquel, Tarn-et-Garonne

High above the confluence of the Vère

and Aveyron rivers, some 30 km east of

Montauban, Bruniquel boasts not one fortress

but two, conveniently known as the Old and

Young castles. Founded by Queen Brunehaut,

daughter of the Visigoth king, Bruniquel clings

to the hillside in tiers. Expect steep cobbled

streets, limestone houses adorned with

climbing roses and lilacs, and period properties

with mullioned windows dating back to the 15 th

century. Visit the partially restored rooms of

the Young Castle and take in the panorama

across the Aveyron Gorges from the open

Renaissance-style gallery of the Old Castle,

built on the ramparts. Ancient stronghold of the

Counts of Toulouse and an important medieval

trading centre, Bruniquel still prides itself on its

artisan boutiques.

QUALITY FRENCH

MANUFACTURED

FIBREGLASS

SWIMMING POOLS

OPERATING

THROUGHOUT FRANCE

5 STAR REVIEWS

1 WEEK INSTALLATION OVER

40 POOL MODELS 10 YEAR GUARANTEE

(+33) 6 42 50 04 31

www.poolsdirect.online

contact@poolsdirect.online

www.facebook.com/poolsdirect

S I R E T : 9 0 4 9 5 3 9 5 7 0 0 0 1 9

34 | The Good Life France Bruniquel © Gillian Thornton


A heavenly place

to stay in Paris –

Sacré-Coeur

There is a place to stay in Paris that is no

ordinary place to rest your head. It is, in fact,

a hôtellerie attached to one of Paris’s most

famous churches – the great Basilica of

Sacré-Coeur.

The hill of Montmartre has been a place of

worship since long before anyone dreamed of

the Basilica of Sacré-Coeur. Millennia ago,

Gallic druids claimed the top of Montmartre

to practice their rituals. When the Romans

arrived, they chose this spot to build temples

honouring their gods Mercury and Mars. It’s

not hard to understand why – it’s the highest

natural spot in Paris.

The views from the top of the hill where the Basilica is perched are magnificent

The Roman-Byzantine style Basilica is

relatively new – the first stone was laid in 1875,

and the Basilica was consecrated in 1918.

It was conceived as a symbol of penitence,

trust, hope and faith after the Prussian

Army defeated the French army in 1870,

and designed by architect Paul Abadie. The

beautiful white stone used in the construction

came from the Souppes-sur-Loing quarry

in Seine et Marne. It’s essentially a “selfcleaning”

stone and Paris’s Arc de Triomphe

and Pont Alexandre III are built from the same

material. The people of Savoie funded a giant

bell; at 19 tons, it’s still one of the heaviest in

the world and was dragged up the hill by 21

sturdy horses in 1895.

Around 11 million people visit the Basilica

annually making it the second most visited

church in Paris after Notre-Dame. But just a

handful are aware of the hôtellerie (formerly

the Maison Éphrem), a guesthouse run by

Benedictine Sisters, whose community is

close by.

The Basilica is a “Sanctuary of Eucharistic

Adoration and Divine Mercy” where an

unbroken chain of prayer takes place, an

idea proposed by Mother Marie de Saint

Discover a secret, sacred hotel in the very heart of Paris, says Janine Marsh.

36 | The Good Life France


Pierre, foundress of the Benedictine Sister’s

Montmartre community. The first sisters

participated in the prayer of adoration on 1

August, 1885 and ever since, pilgrims have

come from around the world to participate.

A spiritual stay

Just a few feet away from Montmartre’s

vibrant cobbled streets and squares

lined with gift shops, historic restaurants,

museums and bars, the guest house has

170 beds (dormitories and bedrooms) in a

grand building attached to the Basilica.

Rooms are available to those who wish to

pray, visit as part of a pilgrimage and join in

the eucharistic adoration, day and night. It

is a unique experience for the faithful and

the spiritual. I booked a room via the online

reservation site (I recommend you book in

advance), and received confirmation a few

weeks later.

As hotel rooms in Paris go, it’s cheap, but if

that’s what you’re looking for, this place is

not for you. The whole point of staying here

is to take part in the prayer relay and join in

the night-time adoration, spending at least

one hour of prayer or silent contemplation, a

custom that has been in place non-stop for

140 years (even during wartime). When you

book to stay at the Sacré-Coeur hôtellerie,

you enter into an unwritten agreement that

must not be broken.

Montmartre, bustling and vibrant, just steps from the tranquil Basilica

When you book in at the reception desk,

you’re directed to a whiteboard to mark the

prayer hour of your choice between 11pm and

7am. I noticed that the 11pm shift straight

after 10 O’clock Mass seemed to be very

popular! I chose the 5am shift, dropped my

suitcase off in my room and returned to the

streets of Montmartre to soak up the sights.

The receptionists speak enough English to

help you if you don’t speak French, and there

are written notes in the rooms explaining the

prayer ritual in English and French. You can

order an evening meal and breakfast for a

small additional fee. It’s simple fare but a great

way to meet your fellow guests who come here

from all around the world - pilgrims, friends,

school groups, solo, young, old, believers, and

non-believers who are interested and willing

to participate and pray in their own way, if not

the traditional way.

Before you take your place in the church,

you’re invited to a lecture by the nuns to learn

more about the church and the Catholic

religion, though it’s not obligatory. You’re also

invited to the 10 O’clock mass. The singing

of hymns by a choir with voices like angels,

the haunting notes from the huge pipe organ,

itself a national monument, and the chanting

of prayers combined with the most incredible

acoustics are goosebump moments, whether

you believe or not.

When the Mass ended, the last visitors left,

and the grand doors were closed. The church

fell silent. I headed to my room for a few hours

of sleep.

Overlooking the Basilica’s private garden, the

room was small and sparse but comfortable,

consisting of a single bed, desk and chair,

shower and sink, and a simple crucifix on

the wall. Loos are dormitory-style in a block.

When the alarm went off at 4.30 am, I was

surprisingly alert, thanks to the sense of

adventure and unusualness of the situation.

I tiptoed along the deserted, dimly lit,

noiseless corridors, and crossed a secret

passage to enter directly into the hushed

church in which there were three other people

sitting silently. The only sound was the wind

which howled around the top of the hill. Taking

photos in the church is prohibited, but it is

extraordinarily beautiful in the dead of night,

the ceiling above the altar—one of the largest

mosaics in the world—lit by flickering candles.

I thought that an hour of silent meditation

would be difficult, but it passed so quickly in

the peaceful silence of the cavernous church

that I was startled to realise that an hour and

a half had gone by as I let my mind wander

to those I have lost, my mum and dad, my

sister-in-law and father-in-law, and I thought

of friends who are suffering from illnesses and

hoped for them to find peace.

It was a unique, spiritual, strangely serene and

comforting experience, and a very unusual

way to discover authentic Paris.

Find out more about the Basilca of Sacré-

Coeur: sacre-coeur-montmartre.com


Take a tour of the

French lifestyle

French style is world famous – a blend of easy

elegance and timeless sophistication, from

French country to Provencal and chateau

chic. Susie McLaren and Aline Bachelier, two

leading experts in antiques and interior design

at La Source antiquing and interior design

tours in France, explain what French interior

style is all about and how to incorporate it into

your home.

French style

French style has cast a spell around the world

for centuries – but just how do they achieve

such effortless, graceful interiors? “Well it’s

a bit like French gastronomy, you take the

most simple ingredients, or elements, and you

elevate them” says Aline. “You mix and match

– old and new, a bit of this and a bit of that –

but you never over complicate it!”

Skilled crafts have long been revered in

France, from Gothic décor and furniture

making in the middle ages – intricate carvings

galore, to vibrant tapestry making, French

Renaissance décor, Haussmanian, art deco,

art nouveau and many more styles through

the ages. The French are renowned for

appreciating these finer things in life and as

French style – a blend of old and new, easy elegance and timeless sophistication

a result, treasured objects are passed down

through the centuries – it’s never been a

throwaway culture.

“There is a booming market in France for

antiques and vintage everything from clothes

to furniture, chaise longues to armoires,

chandeliers to textiles, cutlery to glassware,

jewellery to ornaments, and much more”

explains Susie. “There are treasures that

once graced the chateaux of French nobility,

and treasures that once took pride of place

in a grandma’s front room. Vendors pride

themselves on knowing about the provenance

of an item, you may be told how a decanter

was used at a chateau dinner party in the

1920s, or have a history lesson on wicker

baskets – antiquing isn’t just about the items,

it’s about the stories and memories that you

take home with you.”

La Source runs unique tours of Paris and

Provence that offer a true experience of

French style. After working with antiques

dealers and art galleries in the US for 3 years,

Aline joined her family business Bachelier

Antiquités and spent 30 years at the Paris

Flea Market, and now runs antiques shops

and an antique finding consultancy. Susie is

an interior designer based in the UK when

not in France, or travelling the world working

with clients, after several years working as

Buying Director at Liberty London. They have

a lifetime of experience in interior design and

antiques that they love to share.

Aline and Susie


“There are flea markets and antiques shops

all over France, they’re a window into the

past and a way to connect with culture in an

authentic way as well as of course finding

treasures to love” Aline enthuses.

“Modern French style is also world famous,

and craftmanship thrives in France” says

Aline. “Ateliers, workshops and design studios

are cherished and that’s where we like to seek

out items of exceptional quality, authenticity

and diversity. On our tours we take guests to

private viewings with some of our favourite

and special curators and galeristes and to

unique boutiques. And two of the very best

places for interior design and antiques in

France are Paris and Provence.”

Provence

narrow streets, and every corner holds a

whisper of the past” says Susie. “With its

sun-kissed canvas brushed with lavender and

gold, where vineyards weave quietly in rows

of green and olive trees twist like dancers

under clear blue expansive skies, every glance

reveals the art of living well.”

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, antiques centre of southern France

L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is world famous for its

antique stores, there are specialist collectors

of all sorts from textiles to furniture and décor.

“Provence is home to a thriving community

of wonderful artisans and artists, inspired

by the unique light and the landscape. And

it’s no wonder that so many people long to

experience its authenticity and joie de vivre

- like artist and NY Times bestselling author

Jamie Beck, one of the guest speakers on our

tours who loves to share what made her fall

head over heels for the area.”

Paris

Textile studio Paris

Paris is home to the world’s largest antiques

and second-hand market – Les Puces de Paris

Saint-Ouen. It’s estimated there are some

2,000 stores/stalls at this market that covers

7 hectares – and there’s nowhere else quite

like it! Whether you’re looking for an ancient

tapestry or a 60’s glow lamp – this is the place

to go to search for something special. Not far

away in Port de Vanves is another fabulous

flea market that, although much smaller, is a

true treasure trove.

Paris is also home to some of the finest

creative workshops in the world from where

artists and artisans often set trends. If you

really want to know about the famous French

art de vivre, the art of living well, and how to

incorporate French style into your home –

then Paris is the place to go (especially when

you know who and where!).

While La Source adventures have a focus

on antiques and interior design, there’s

absolutely no obligation to buy any pieces

at all - you can simply enjoy the experience.

However, if you get carried away at the

markets, brocantes or workshops, Susie and

Aline can help you to organise shipping so

that every purchase finds its way safely back

to your home.

You can find out more about La Source French

lifestyle, antiques and interior design tours

here: sourceantiquesfrance.com

ANTIQUING & DESIGN

ADVENTURES IN FRANCE

Whether you’re hunting for antiques, seeking

interior design inspiration, exploring the

countryside, or just enjoying the food, wine

and sunshine, Provence has a warmth that

permeates the soul. “Its medieval hilltop

villages, where time sleeps and the scent of

rosemary and thyme drifts softly through

Paris flea market

S O U R C E A N T I Q U E S F R A N C E . C O M


If there was an award for the country producing the world’s best pastry, France would steal the

prize, a cliché in its predictability. But while we all love to indulge in the sweet delights of French

patisserie – many of the greatest cakes came into being by pure good luck says Ally Mitchell.

Let’s take a look at three of France’s crowning achievements, glittering in buttery splendour, and

sugary sumptuousness to assess just how amazing it is that we have these iconic cakes at all!

Three Iconic

Cakes of France

Kouign Amann

Described as “de l’or en beurre” – gold in

butter – the kouign amann (kween a-mahn)

is likely to be the best pastry most visitors

have never heard of. While its Breton name

reveals its origins, it easily confuses non-

French speakers as the ancient language is

so dissimilar to anything resembling classic

French. Kouign means “cake” or “bread”, and

amann means “butter”, getting to the crux of

the pastry’s ingredients.

The kouign amann originates from Finistère,

literally meaning “end of earth” at the very tip

of Brittany, where in 1860, in a boulangerie

in the port town of Douarnenez, history was

made – almost by accident.

Baker Yves-René Scordia had run out of

cakes to sell, so decided to improvise with

leftover flour, butter and sugar, laminating

the layers as he did with croissants, twisting

them into puff pastry swirls. Their success was

immediate thanks to the custardy soft centre

and the caramelized, chewy crust. Equal parts

butter and sugar, it is far more calorific than

it looks. The New York Times even described

it as “the fattiest pastry in all of Europe”. It

is, after all, the ideal crunchy, sticky vehicle

to flaunt the region’s gold – Brittany’s salted

butter. The ratio is still followed to this day:

30% butter, 30% sugar, 40% flour.

While there has been inevitable dispute

over the kouign amann’s exact origins, in

2017, a plaque was unveiled in Douarnenez

stating that the pastry “was invented right

here, in 1860, in the Crozon bakery by

Yves René Scordia.”

Determined to preserve the pastry’s heritage

when faced with poor modern-day copies,

Douarnenez’s boulangers united in 1999

to form an association for the “authentic

kouign amann”, forever marking this

delicious happenstance with a strict list

of specifications. They also choose not to

participate in Brittany’s annual competition

for the best kouign-amann, as, even though

the competing pastries are acknowledged to

be excellent, they are “not kouign amann”.


Macarons

Pretty pastel-coloured macarons – made with

egg whites, ground almonds and sugar and

sandwiched with ganache – have long been

in vogue. When the iconic Maison Ladurée

opened in New York in 2011, queues formed

around the block. The Parisian branch of the

patisserie had developed a cult following

thanks to their stylish interiors and, of course,

their macarons, which were said to have

inspired the spring collections of 2013’s New

York Fashion Week.

Paris-Brest

A crème-filled pastry honouring an intensive

sporting event reads like a juxtaposition, but

this is precisely how the famous Paris-Brest

cake came into being.

In 1891, Pierre Giffard, a sports journalist and

editor of Le Petit Journal newspaper, wrote La

Reine Bicyclette – a four-page article on the

virtues of cycling. That same year, he founded

the Paris-Brest bicycle race, totalling 1,200

km of road from Paris to Brest in Brittany and

back again. 200 racers participated in what is

now considered to be the oldest cycling race

in the world (today up to 8000 riders take

part in the race held every four years), and

forerunner to today’s Tour de France.

In 1910 Giffard asked pâtissier Louis Durand

from Masions-Laffitte near Paris to concoct

a pastry in the race’s honour. Durand took

inspiration from the bicycles themselves.

He piped and baked a wheel of choux

pastry, which he then halved and filled with

hazelnut crème mousseline – a velvety

blend of vanilla crème pâtissière, hazelnut

praline and whipped butter – which he

piped with a fluted tip, possibly to evoke the

bicycle spokes.

The Paris-Brest pastries were an immediate

success, not only for their delicious sweet

nutty flavour but also because of their high

calorie content – which is something those

of us not racing 1,200 km should dare think

about. Legend goes that the finishing racers

were showered in pastries as they crossed

the finishing line, the perfect reward for a

victorious finish!

A moment of creative innovation resulted in

one of the most beloved pastries in France,

spreading beyond the cycling community

and now devoured worldwide – although the

original recipe still resides in Masions-Laffitte.

These iconic “Paris style” sandwiched

macarons do not indicate their humble origins.

Some speculate that the almond biscuits

came from the Middle East. According to

one theory, in the 16th century, Catherine de

Medici brought macarons with her from Italy

when she came to marry French King Henri II

in 1559. At some point, however, the macaron

became a national treat, popping up in

Picardy, Ardèche, the Basque Country, Saint-

Emilion and Nancy as the regional “speciality”.

That said, Maison des Soeurs in Nancy may

have the final say. In the 18 th century, two nuns,

Marguerite Gaillot and Marie Morlot, lived in

the city’s abbey until the revolution when a

decree abolished religious congregations. The

nuns managed to escape by finding sanctuary

with a local doctor and sold macarons to

pay for their keep, becoming “the macaron

sisters”. The recipe was passed down through

Marie’s niece and hasn’t changed in those 230

years since.

Unlike modern macarons, these are pale

brown and cracked across the surface. It

wasn’t until 1930 when Parisian pâtissier

Pierre Desfontaines – incidentally a cousin

of the Ladurée founder – sandwiched them

with ganache. Flavours and fillings followed,

leading to our modern international craze of

the macaron as haute patisserie. All thanks

to the sharp wits, and some could say good

fortune, of two nuns claiming asylum.

Three of France’s most decadent and

famous pastries came about because of –

what seems to be – fortuitous timing, but

really, I think it’s because the French simply

understand their patisserie. The kouign

amann, the Paris-Brest and macarons

are completely different specimens, but

altogether, they represent a refined palate

and a dedication to a form of art.

And this is the reason why France would take

home the pastry gold – every time.



La Marquise de Pompadour by Maurice Quentin de la Tour 1750, Louvre Museum

MADAME DE

POMPADOUR:

A queen without a crown

Madame de Pompadour was arguably

the most famous, high-powered mistress

of King Louis XV of France. She rose

from humble beginnings to become a

major patron of the arts and the king’s

favoured political advisor. Sue Aran and

Janine Marsh explore the life of a queen

without a crown.

The future Madame de Pompadour, Jeanne-

Antoinette Poisson was born on 29 December,

1721 in Paris to François and Madeleine La

Motte Poisson. Her father was exiled for

fraud, leaving her mother to raise her and

her brother, Abel-François. Fortunately for

the family, the local férmier général (tax

collector), Charles François Paul Le Normant

de Tournehem, became Jeanne-Antoinette

and Abel-François’s legal guardian, raising

suspicion that he was their biological father.

Jeanne-Antoinette was a precocious and

uncommonly pretty child, and a fortune teller

told her mother that the little girl would one

day win the heart of the king, causing her to

be nicknamed Reinette, “little Queen.” From

then on Madame Poisson was determined

that her daughter would be prepared for the

heady heights of a role as a royal mistress,

though it was well known that fortune tellers,

of which there were many in 18 th century Paris,

frequently predicted such “good fortune” to

their clients.

Madame Poisson took personal charge of

her daughter’s education, grooming her for

success and hiring tutors who taught the

young girl to memorize entire plays by heart,

dance, sing, paint, engrave and play the

clavichord. Aged 19, Jean-Antoinette was an

enchantingly beautiful, astute woman, and

entered into a marriage of convenience with

de Tournehem’s nephew, Charles-Guillaume

Le Normant d’Étiolles.

Madame d’Étiolles made the most of her

talents for befriending important people

including philosophers and writers, and

swiftly rose through the ranks of Parisian

elite. It didn’t take long for her to come to the

attention of King Louis XV who was known

for his enthusiastic appetite for mistresses,

allegedly he had more than 100 during his

lifetime, though only one at time was his

“official mistress” – the favourite, a position of

considerable power and influence.

Madame de Pompadour’s portrait in her apartment at Versailles

© Didier Saulnier, Palace of Versailles

Louis XV circa 1762, Louvre Museum Collection, via Wikimedia


In 1745, the fortune teller’s prophecy came

true. The 35-year-old King who had ruled

France since he was five years old, fell for the

24-year-old Jean-Antoinette. He had by then

been married for 20 years to Queen Marie

Leszczyńska, daughter of the deposed King

Stanislaw of Poland. Within three months of

meeting the King, Jeanne-Antoinette officially

separated from Charles-Guillaume and

was installed at the palace in an apartment

directly above the King’s, connected by a

secret staircase.

Madeleine Poisson did not live to see her

daughter become Louis’s undisputed favourite;

she died in the spring before Louis elevated

Jeanne-Antoinette from commoner to titled

Marquise when he purchased the Dordogne

Valley-based Marquisate of Pompadour in

July. She was formally introduced to his court

in September 1745.

Pink marquise cut

diamond, named after

Madame de Pompadour

Her modest

start in life was

a drawback at

the court of

Versailles where

image was all.

But Madame

de Pompadour’s

charm and wit

won her far

more friends

than enemies.

She threw grand

dinner parties

and had plays written and performed with her

as female lead to appeal to the King’s tastes

and flatter him. She commissioned portraits

of herself to remind him of her beauty. It’s said

that the champagne coupe was modelled on

her breasts and the marquise cut diamond

style was named for her after the king

commissioned a jeweller to create a jewel in

the shape of her mouth which he considered

to be “perfect.”

Ever mindful of the King’s needs, after

suffering several miscarriages, the canny

Madame de Pompadour organised mistresses

while she was rested. Left with fragile health,

she retired from her mistress duties at just

29, but Louis remained devoted to her, and

she became his most valued confidante. He

relied on her advice on everything from art

to foreign policy. She became the unofficial

minister of culture and his trusted political

advisor; she could control who had access

to an audience with the king and even made

statements on his behalf.

Salon Pompadour at the Elysee Palace

by G. Garitan via WikimediaMuseum

Pompadour pink potpourri

vase by Sèvres, 1757

donated to Wikimedia

Commons as part of a

project by the Metropolitan

Museum of Art

For 20 years, she was the most powerful

woman in France. An uncrowned queen.

During Madame de Pompadour’s “reign,”

her influence was felt across France. She

was wealthy enough to purchase the Hôtel

d'Évreux in Paris, now the Élysée Palace,

official home of French presidents. She

encouraged the creation of the Sèvres

porcelain factory, which became one of the

most famous porcelain manufacturers in

Europe, she even had a deep shade of pink

created by Sevres named after her by the

king, ‘Pompadour Pink’ is still popular! She

promoted the development of the Place

Louis XV, now Place de la Concorde,

and convinced the king to build the Petit

Trianon. And in 1751 she encouraged the

publication of the first two volumes of the

Encyclopédie by Diderot and d'Alembert,

even though the Church sought to have

them suppressed. But she was also blamed

Petit Trianon, Versailles

https://frenchcountryadventures.com/

for influencing the 7 Years War between

the UK and France. France lost, leaving

ordinary people to pay off the huge

debt the war accrued, which ultimately

contributed to the French Revolution.

Madame de Pompadour died of tuberculosis

at the Palace of Versailles in 1764 aged

43. Looking at the rain during the removal

of his mistress’ coffin, the devastated King

reportedly said: “La marquise n’aura pas de

beau temps pour son voyage” (The marquise

won’t have good weather for her journey.)

Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson, Madame

de Pompadour, was laid to rest at the

Couvent des Capucines in Paris, near Place

Vendôme, and there she allegedly remains

though the Convent was demolished in

1806. It’s said she lies beneath a jewellers

shop at No. 3 rue de la Paix.

At the Palace of Versailles, follow in

Madame de Pompadour’s footsteps

(in English) Visit Guided tour –

The King’s favorites


understood perspective, but accomplished

many of the aims of contemporary art

– unbound by rules, suggesting rather than

showing, inviting viewers to participate in the

meaning, using natural features to add depth

and dynamism. When Picasso visited Lascaux,

he could only say ‘We have invented nothing’.

France’s grottes ornées are intensely moving,

magical, uncanny – and fragile. To be among

the few allowed inside you nearly always need

to book in advance. For some caves, perfectly

preserved because they were sealed up by

rockslides, we can only visit replicas – but they

are breath-taking, copied to the millimetre.

As they say, ‘Impossible is not a French word!’

Here’s a round-up of the best.

Time travel to

France’s first

MASTERPIECES

Dana Faracos explores some of France’s

most glorious cave art, richly painted

and engraved snapshots of daily life

thousands of years ago.

For over 20,000 years, they scrambled

through pitch black corridors, sometimes on

all fours, with only lamps of mammoth fat or

resin torches to light their way. Using their

fingers, pieces of flint, pigment (clay ochres,

iron oxide, manganese oxide and charcoal),

moss and twigs, they created extraordinary

works of art. It’s hard to get your head around

France’s earliest artists. Questions are endless,

answers only speculation. They not only

Lascaux IV, an almost entire replica of the original cave

Lascaux (Montignac, Dordogne) Vacuumsealed

until it was discovered in 1940 but kept

secret until the end of the war, this ‘Sistine

Chapel of Prehistoric Art’ (21,000 BC) is one

of the few polychrome painted caves ever

discovered. It didn’t take long for the breath of

thousands of visitors to start to destroy the art,

and such was the universal disappointment that

the French invented the cave replica industry.

The latest facsimile opened in 2016 as part of

the International Centre for Cave Art, which

makes a great introduction to the field.


out. I could have stayed all night.

Pech Merle (Cabrerets, Lot) Sealed up

12,000 years ago, and re-discovered in

1922, Pech Merle combines natural cave

beauty (and rare cave pearls) and drawings,

the oldest of which go back 30,000 years.

Highlights include the 7m ‘black frieze’ of

25 animals, the wounded man, and a pair of

extraordinary larger than life spotted horses,

surrounded by yearning negative hand prints.

Perhaps most moving are the footprints left

by a child long, long ago.

Engraved horse’s head Grotte de Font-de-Gaume (Les Eyzies), Sites

préhistoriques de la vallée de la Vézère © Olivier Huard / Centre des

Monuments Nationaux

Font de Gaume (Les Eyzies, Dordogne) Just

22km down the Vézère River (UNESCO World

Heritage’s ‘Valley of Prehistory’), this jewel

was always open, but was only ‘discovered’

in 1901, after numerous other finds of bones

and tools in local caves compelled ‘experts’ to

admit that cave art wasn’t an elaborate hoax.

In Font de Gaume, Magdalenian-era artists

(14,000 BC) left a magnificent polychrome

painted frieze of bison, along with horses and

a unique, exquisitely tender scene, of a stag

leaning over to lick a doe’s brow.

It was a similar story at the Grotte de

Combarelles – the caves are so close they

even share the same ticket office— and the

engravings of horses, bison, mammoths,

and lions are exceptional. Vestiges of colour

suggest these were painted, too, but only the

engravings have survived.

Panel of horses © Patrick Aventurier, Grotte Chauvet 2, Ardèche

Niaux (Niaux, Ariège) High in a cliff, with

an entrance marked by a spectacular steel

prow, the most beautiful grotte ornée in the

Pyrenees is another cave that was always

open for centuries (hence the graffiti), until

its art was ‘discovered’ in 1906. Nothing has

changed since, and you’ll need to walk with a

torch over uneven surface for 1.6km, passing

black and red symbols that seem full of

forgotten meaning. At the end is the superb,

vaulted Salle Noir, which feels like a sanctuary,

Grotte des Combarelles (Les Eyzies), Sites préhistoriques de la Vallée de la

Vézère © Olivier Huard / Centre des monuments nationaux

Chauvet (Vallon-Pont-d’Arc, Ardèche)

In 1994, three amateur speleologists

wiggled into a cave that had been sealed

up by a rockslide 21,500 years ago and

found ‘humanity’s oldest masterpiece,’ an

astonishing 18,000 years older than Lascaux.

Its Aurignacian-era artists filled it with herds

of exquisitely depicted horses and lions

(especially) but also rhinoceroses, bison,

reindeer, and even an owl. Werner Herzog

was allowed inside to film his 3-D Cave of

Forgotten Dreams (2010) but that was it. But

on a nearby hill, in a building that looks like a

pie pan, you can visit the world’s largest cave

replica, Chauvet 2. Book the last slot of the

day, so you can linger until they throw you


Rouffignac Cave ©Frédéric Plassard

covered with 70 stunning charcoal drawings of

animals from 15-14,000 BC.

Rouffignac (Rouffignac-Saint-Cernin-de-

Reilhac, Dordogne) Curiously, the fact that

the walls of this massive cave 10km from

Les Eyzies were decorated with ‘beasts’

was described back in 1575, yet only in

1956 was it confirmed that there were

priceless Magdalenian works from 11,000

BC. Nicknamed the ‘Cave of a Hundred

Mammoths’, you’ll ride an electric train for

4km to the best of the art. There are actually

158 woolly mammoths, engraved and outlined

in magnesium oxide, which researchers say

came from 450km away in Saône-et-Loire.

Cosquer (Marseille) In 1985, Henri Cosquer

was scuba diving in the limestone calanques

near Marseille, and 35m down, noticed a

crevice in the rock, and swam up to explore—

discovering a cave frequented between 33-

19,000 BC, back when sea level was 120m

lower, beautifully decorated with the Ice Age

animals, and uniquely, a giant prehistoric

penguin. Since then, sea levels have risen

further. But we can have a look at what he

discovered at Cosquer Méditerranée, the

replica built next to Marseille’s Museum of

Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean,

where you descend into a watery world and

board a little boat. It’s a bit Disneyland-ish, but

good fun.

Cussac (Le Buisson-de-Cadouin, Dordogne)

In 2000, chef and speleologist Marc Delluc

felt a give-away current of air on Cussac

hill from a pile of rocks – which had blocked

the entrance to a cave 30,000 years ago.

Delluc cleared a path and found what was

soon dubbed the ‘Lascaux of etchings’ for

its fluid drawings of horses, bison, and a tiny

headed woman with an enormous bottom.

Unusually, it also contained human skeletons

in the wallows formed by hibernating bears.

Too fragile to open to the public, in October

2024 a Centre d’Interprétation opened in

Le Buisson-de-Cadouin with copies of the

sepulchres and some of the etchings.

Rouffignac Cave ©Frédéric Plassard


Curnonsky, the prince

of gastronomy, photo

Jpbrigand — Collection

Inge Huber, via Wikimedia

Curnonsky had a way with

words: “the vehement

Maroilles, king of cheeses

whose thunderous flavour

resonates like the sound of the

saxophone in the symphony of

cheeses”.Huber, via Wikimedia

The Real-Life Prince

of Gastronomy:

CURNONSKY

The man who helped make French

cuisine a tourist industry in the 20th

century – Ally Mitchell explores the life

of the Prince of gastronomy.

On July 22nd, 1956, France’s most beloved

culinary critic, a man of fearsome gastronomic

reputation, and author of 72 books, fell to

his death from a fourth-story window in his

apartment in Paris. Aged 83, Curnonsky

had led a – and I do not say this lightly – full

life, sacrificing his waistline to celebrate the

cuisine of his countrymen, earning him the

title of “Prince des Gastronomes”.

His death, while sudden, reflected his attitude

to life. While there is no doubt that he was old

by then, it was certainly an unexpected way to

go considering his general indulgent lifestyle.

It is alleged he was dieting at the time, came

over faint, which caused him to keel over,

plummeting to the courtyard below.

Curnonsky wasn’t his real name. The

pseudonym was an impulsive decision and

one that he came to regret as it resulted in a

few problems due to its Russian connotations

– during the First World War, he was mistaken

for a Russian spy, and on another occasion

he was held in custody for six hours. All of

this simply because the 18-year-old Maurice-

Edmond Sailland from Angers (b. 13 October,

1872), took the words “Cur” and “non”

meaning “why not” and added a sprinkle of

embellishment, the heel-clicking “sky”, at

the end, apparently because he admired the

writing of Dostoevski. The character of “Whynot-sky”

took over, and he proceeded to live

life according to his name’s mantra.

His enthusiastic leap into the world of

journalism from a young age saw him writing

articles for La Vie Parisienne. As his notoriety

grew, he focused increasingly on the topic

of gastronomy. This reputation was sealed

when he became the first writer to associate

regional cooking, the terroir, and travel,

taking advantage of the new era’s convenient

mode of transport – the car (despite being

unable to drive). In 1921, the first of his and

Marcel Rouff’s travel books La France

Gastronomique was produced, celebrating

the Périgord and its musky black truffle.

This was followed by another 27 volumes,

documenting the country’s bounty. They’re

now collector’s items, should you ever see

them at a flea market – gobble them up! A

man ahead of his time, Curnonsky led the

way for future automobile tourism, swiftly

popularised by Michelin, and coined the term

the “gastronomad”, a label perfectly relevant

over 100 years later with food tourism’s

continuous growth.

Not only did the books provide information

on restaurants around the country, but they

included recipes and recommendations.

Curnonsky’s travel books hailed cuisine du

terroir, local country cooking, in his eyes far

superior to la haute cuisine. Even under the

tutelage of Henri-Paul Pellaprat, co-founder

58 | The Good Life France All photos © Karen Tait


Curnonski by cartoonist Henri-Paul Gassier in the Paris-Soir newspaper, 7

décembre 1927 Courtesy Wikimedia Commons/Jpbrigand2

Bouillabaisse, a traditional southern French fish soup that Curnonsky described

as “soupe d’or” – soup of gold…

of Le Cordon Bleu, Curnonsky was known to

have said “Good cooking is when things taste

of what they are” and advocated for the rustic

over the elaborate flourishes of 19th-century

restauranteurs. It was thanks to Curnonsky’s

work that the family-style cassoulet and

bouillabaisse are such famous staples in

French cuisine today.

In 1927, the industry magazine Le Bon Goût

et la Bonne Table held a ballot to vote for

the “Prince des Gastronomes”. Receiving

over 3,000 votes, Curnonsky won – a title no

one has earned since. He embraced his new

title with apparent modesty, genially asking

only to be addressed as “Sa Rondeur” (“His

Plumpness”), although the title appeared in all

his writings henceforth. As with his pen name,

his title preceded him, bestowing on him the

reputation of gastronomic royalty.

Rarely paying for dinner, he habitually ate

out, attending at least 4,000 banquets in

his lifetime, and according to legend, 80

restaurants around Paris kept a table open in

case the “Prince” should appear. As a result

of his professional dining out, Curnonsky

was grossly unprepared for guests at his

home. A lifelong bachelor, the writer had

no kitchen, cook, or even a dining room. He

slept throughout the day to fast before every

evening’s main event.

His 80th birthday called for such a celebration

that hundreds of chefs rallied to honour him,

preparing a dinner of chicken bouillon, lobster

jellied in champagne, spitted ham and truffles,

80 varieties of cheese, and bombe glacée.

Curnonsky’s eccentric lifestyle almost outshines

his achievements. In 1929, he was honoured as a

Knight of the Légion d’Honneur, rising to Officer

ten years later. He founded L’Académie des

Gastronomes, a group of forty of France’s most

gifted connoisseurs of food and wine in 1930,

then in 1933 established L’Académie du Vin de

France (with Pierre Le Roy Boiseaumarié, the

brains behind the Appellation d’origine contrôlée

(AOC) system). He founded two magazines, La

France à Table (1934) and Cuisine et Vins de

France (1947), the latter of which morphing into

a 800-page illustrated tome of French classics

and regional delicacies published in 1953.

There was never a moment in his long life that

he steered the proud ship of French gastronomy

off course, in doing so, helping it reach its

internationally celebrated heights of today.

He has left his mark on French cuisine to such

an extent that, even to this day, restaurants

continue to cook “à la Curnonsky”. It is thanks

to his culinography that France still perches

high in the ranks of international cuisine,

driving millions of tourists to the country

every year. It is said he sacrificed himself

for the advancement of France’s culinary

accomplishments, and according to one

admirer, he offered “a heroic stomach to the

service of French cuisine”.


Golfe de Girolata © ATC, Corsica

Hiking CORSICA

I thought myself fit, but the first four-hour

uphill slog quickly humbled me. I’d imagined

that mountains on a Mediterranean island

would be softer than the Alps, but it’s quite

the reverse. Where the Alps have had their

corners rounded by ski tourism — chairlifts

and ski slopes and chocolate box chalets —

Corsica’s mountains have remained all but as

impregnable as they would have been several

centuries ago. Crumbling, uneven, so filled

with shale that they constantly look on the

brink of a landslide. Nature doesn’t do straight

lines or neatness here, everywhere you look

are breakneck drops and spectacular chaos.

Along the coast, you’re still hard pushed to

find anything flat, but the undulating seaside

paths reward you with frequent dips into

isolated coves. Often, your fellow hikers will

be cows that wander freely on the cliff paths.

Not all of the hikes are long, or particularly

technical, but most of them will put a burn in

your thighs.

Ditch the flip-flops or plastic jelly shoes, these

trails are worth lacing up your hiking boots for.

The Customs Trail

Stock up on

delicious

Corsican pasties

to fuel your hike

In 1769, Corsica was annexed to France.

The Corsicans had no say in the matter, and

Corsican patriotism still runs strong more than

250 years later. Geographically, Corsica has

always been resisting France, shaped like an

index finger pointing accusingly northwards at

its would-be colonisers. It’s just surprising it’s

not the middle finger.

This index finger, Cap Corse, has one of the

most beautiful hiking trails on the island: the

former customs trail. If you’re fit, you can

tackle the whole lot in a day; the trail, whilst

constantly climbing or descending, isn’t

technical. Hiked in either direction, the path

passes dozens of beaches. Some of them, like

Tamarone, have beach bars and restaurants.

Others are picked over only by seabirds and

wild-looking cows.

Start/end point: Macinaggio/Centuri

Length: 12 miles one way

Time required: one day

Piana Panoramas

Thought Corsica was all about

beaches? Think again, it’s one of

Europe’s finest hiking destinations says

Anna Richards.

Piana

Corsica has done horrible things to my

legs. I can point to different scars and

name sections of the trails and mountains.

Battle wounds, hard fought, they came with

absolutely zero regrets.

Hiking in Corsica is something else. “Made

for mountain goats” was my impression

when I first landed here in 2021, ready to

tackle the hard-hitter, the 112-mile GR20,

legendary for being Europe’s ‘toughest’ hike.

© Sylvain Alessandri ATC, Corsica

This 5-mile trail is well-marked and welltrodden,

but is very much a there-and-back

hike, contrary to what some user uploaded

routes on popular walking apps will tell you (I

found myself on a cliff edge trying to follow

a supposed circular walk on Visorando).

Everything is rust-coloured: the trail, the

surrounding cliffs, even the 17 century

Genoese tower. Inside the tower, you can

climb up several storeys to get sweeping views


over the headland and burnt-looking cliffs,

contrasting in colour with the sea like red and

blue poster paints.

The final section up to the tower is much more

of a scramble than the rest of the trail, and

can be slippery in bad weather. Take plenty of

water, it’s extremely arid and in hot weather

the temperatures feel furnace-like to match

the red dust. There’s a snack bar in the car

park you start from, but other than that barely

a dribble of water, even from streams.

Start/end point: A guardiola buvette, Piana

Capo Rosso, Scandola Nature Reserve © ATC Corsica

Length: 5 miles there and back

Time required: 3 ½ hours

The GR20

Sometimes, the GR20 is more like

bouldering than hiking. Crossing the spine

of the island, this challenging route has

almost 42,000 ft of elevation gain and

loss. If you want to make the going a little

easier on yourself, there are refuges at each

stage, but book well in advance. The GR20’s

reputation as Europe’s toughest trek means

it’s hugely popular. If camping, you’ll still

need to pay to pitch your tent by a refuge.

Wild camping is forbidden.

Many people underestimate the GR20, and

the dropout rate is high. It’s not a tricky trail

to follow, each section is incredibly well

waymarked, but the ascents and descents are

relentless and can last several hours. Weather

is another complication, with snow possible

even in the summer, and winds so strong they

can knock you off your feet. The steepest

sections of trail have iron pins in the cliff face

or cables to help you along, but a head for

heights helps.

The rewards? Raw, craggy, wild views for days

on end. And endless bragging rights.

Scandola Nature Reserve © Sylvain Alessandri ATC, Corsica

The GR20, near Ciottolu © ATC, Corsica

The Postman’s Trail

Girolata’s postman’s eyes would have fallen

out of their head to learn that in the 21st

century we communicate with people on the

other side of the world at the push of a button.

Here it took them two hours just to deliver a

letter to the next village.

Scandola Nature Reserve is Corsica’s only

UNESCO-listed site, a watery web of caves,

inlets and cliffs. It’s supposed to be best explored

by boat, but for two consecutive years, I spent

several days in Porto, the base for Scandola

trips, waiting for the sea to calm enough for

the boats to head out. Luck wasn’t on my side,

so instead, I set off on the postie’s trail to the

cream-coloured hamlet of Girolata on the

edge of Scandola, only accessible on foot or

by sea. The tiny place has palm trees, muddy

backwaters and a headland fort dating from the

16th century, and is well worth the plod.

Bunkers and Bonifacio

Bonifacio has become Corsica’s poster child,

and it’s easy to see why. The town hangs on

the top of 230 ft high cliffs, gazing out over

Sardinia, and it looks as though just an inch

of coastal erosion could send the whole thing

tumbling into the sea.

Walk east along the clifftop from Bonifacio,

and you’ll go past WW2-era bunkers, many

now covered in colourful graffiti. A steep track

down to sea level then takes you to a skylight

in the roof of a cave, Grotte Saint-Antoine,

where you can watch the waves ebb and

flow on the cave floor below. Time your walk

back for sunset, and you’ll see the sun dipping

behind Bonifacio, creating a silhouette of the

buildings on the cliff.

Start/end point: Bonifacio

Length: 5.5 miles there and back

Time required: 4 hours

Corsica tourism: visitcorsica.com/en

Start/end point: Calenzana/Conca

Length: 112 miles thru-hike

Time required: 14-16 days

Start/end point: Osani

Length: 4 miles there and back

Time required: 4 hours

Bonifacio


Le Weekend:

In DIEPPE

Dieppe on the Alabaster coast of Normandy is famous for its succulent scallops,

superb market – the biggest and best in Normandy and voted favourite market

of the French in 2020 - and for being France’s first ever, and still popular, seaside

resort. Janine Marsh explores the town and surrounding area…

Dieppe castle © Thomas Le Floc’H, Normandy Tourism

In 1825 the first passengers travelled from

Newhaven on the south coast of England to

Dieppe and it became a popular route to the

continent thanks to the railway line that ran

between London and Newhaven, and from

Dieppe to Paris in the mid 1800s. The King of

France Louis Philippe and his wife travelled this

then 9-hour long route to exile in England in 1848.

Car ferries transformed travel in 1964 and in

2013 DFDS took over the Dieppe Newhaven

passage, the only cross channel ferry operator

to offer this route with multiple daily crossings

that take just 4 hours and deliver you to heart

of Normandy.

What to see and do in and

around Dieppe

There’s plenty to see and do in this

classified City of Art and History, from the

medieval castle to the maritime history and

remembrance museums as well as glut of

restaurants serving superb seafood, great

shops and a glorious pebble beach and

colourful harbour.

Dieppe Marina © Ben Collier, Normandy Tourism

Get on your bike! Take your own bike or hire

one in Dieppe (e-bikes are also available) and

take to the green lanes of Normandy. The

Avenue Verte which connects London and

Paris, runs for 28 miles from Dieppe to Forgesles-Euax

following an old railway track, past

lakes and rivers, castles and cafés. It’s the

Dieppe 66 | The © Ben Good Collier, Life Normandy France Tourism


perfect way to enjoy the gorgeous countryside

of Normandy.

An hour from Dieppe by car, the historic city

of Rouen is an ideal visit for the whole family.

Pootle about the pretty cobbled streets in

the old district and admire the magnificent

800-year-old Gothic Cathedral and the

colourful 14 th century clock set in an arch in

rue du Gros-Horloge. Stand in the spot where

Saint Joan of Arc met her doom. And visit

the best kept secret in town, the Secq des

Tournelles Museum. It’s a bit of a mouthful

but inside you’ll find an amazing collection of

ancient hardware from keys, locks and door

knockers to tools, kitchenalia and jewellery.

The Alabaster Coast has long lured painters

to capture its light. For the impressionist

artists in particular, Dieppe was a favourite.

Monet, Renoir and Sisley often came to paint

here. If you’re a fan of Lupin, the smash-hit

French mystery thriller series on Netflix, you’ll

recognise Étretat, a mere 90 minutes from

Dieppe. White limestone cliffs rise from the

long beach and below, three naturally formed

arches, among the most beautiful natural

wonders of France, capture the imagination

– just as they did for so many of the great

impressionist artists.

Love chocolate box pretty villages? The tiny

village of Veules-les-Roses has oodles of charm

and is home to the smallest river in France.

It’s brimming with gorgeous little Normandy

thatched cottages and watermills and right at

the edge of the jaw-droppingly beautiful white

cliffs of the Alabaster coast. Further afield,

Gerberoy just over the border in Picardy is a

classified “plus beaux village de France”, this

pickled-in-the-past little village looks like it was

plucked straight from a fairy tale. Think cobbled

streets, half-timbered buildings and wonderful

views over the lush countryside – perfect for a

wander and a picnic.

Le Tréport where William the Conqueror was

born and where the remains of his castle can be

seen, is just 30 minutes from Dieppe. Don’t miss

the Benedictine Palace, a neo-Gothic, neo-

Renaissance masterpiece where you’ll discover

Rouen

Étretat

the history of the famous Benedictine liqueur

and enjoy a tasty tipple. Ride the funicular

which opened in 1908 and carries passengers

from the lower town to the upper town for eyepopping

views over the English Channel.

You can’t go to Normandy without enjoying the

local food. Indulge in the freshest of fish, dairy

delights and the regional aperitif, Kir Normand

– cider with a dash of blackcurrant liqueur.

Not just a means of getting from A to B –

travelling with DFDS is part of your holiday,

with a warm welcome, lovely staff, lots of

facilities including a restaurant, shop, play

areas and a bar boasting stunning sea views

where you can sometimes spot whales! All

passengers have access to reclining lounge

seats during the crossing, but if you prefer you

can book your own private cabin. You can go

by car, bike, or on foot:

dfds.com/en; en.normandie-tourism.fr

WOOD-FIRED HOT TUBS AND SAUNAS

Relax. Replenish. Revive.

Kick back and relax in a Cotswold Eco Tub

Delivered all over France

hottubsinfrance.com


Summer in the City

Whatever your taste in coast or countryside activities, a town tour will add an extra

dimension to your holiday, says Gillian Thornton.

Every French town offers something different

in terms of history and heritage, culture and

gastronomy. Big hitters like Lyon, Bordeaux

and Nice are internationally famous as city

break destinations, but smaller cities also

merit a detour. Summer is the ideal time to

explore this historic trio.

Le Mans

In the early years of the 20 th century, this

historic town in the Sarthe department was

the cradle of motoring innovation, birthplace

in 1906 of the Automobile Club de l’Ouest

or ACO. In 1923, the club launched a 24-

hour endurance race designed to test the

capabilities of different models and over a

century later, enthusiasts come from across

the world to enjoy the atmosphere of Les 24

Heures du Mans in early June and tour the

race museum throughout the year.

Le Mans old town

Le Mans – the teddy in the window in rue Saint Pavin de la Cité has been there

since 1962 when French photographer Robert Doisneau visited the town and

took a photo of this house with the bear in the window!

Le Mans

Le Mans on market day

But Le Mans offers more than just motoring.

You never forget your first sight of the city’s

spectacular Roman walls, built at the end

of the 3 rd century AD with round towers and


geometric patterns in coloured bricks. Visit

in July and August to enjoy Les Nuits des

Chimères (wild dreams), a free light show of

moving images projected onto the city walls,

cathedral and other historic sites.

Head inside those ramparts and the surprises

just keep on coming. Le Mans was the home

of the Plantagenet dynasty, so called because

Geoffrey, Count of Anjou, would plant a spring

of broom or genet in his hat as he returned

from hunting. In 1126, Geoffrey married

Matilda, widow of English king Henry V and

granddaughter of William I, first Norman king

of England. The Plantagenet dynasty was to

embrace two countries and include English

monarchs Henry II and his sons Richard the

Lionheart and John.

Geoffrey was married and buried in the

magnificent Romanesque Cathedral of Saint-

Julien, still surrounded today by atmospheric

streets that frequently used by film directors.

Every street corner in the Cité Plantagenêt

brings a new photo moment with its streets

of half-timbered houses and hidden squares.

Look out for the Maison du Pilier-Rouge with

its scarlet corner pillar, now home to the

Tourist Office, and step inside the former

Royal Palace. Repurposed in the 18 th century

as the Town Hall, it now also serves as an

exhibition space.

Visit over the first weekend in July to catch

two spectacular events. A street art festival –

the Festival Plein Champ – with interactive fun

for families as well as the chance to watch 30

international artists painting in public. And the

biennial Le Mans Classic, one of the biggest

classic car events in the world with some

8,000 vehicles.

Bérengère, Royal Abbey of L’Epau

Roman walls, Le Mans

Time to spare? Don’t miss the Royal Abbey of

L’Epau, ten minutes from the city centre, last

resting place of Bérengère, widow of Richard

the Lionheart, and adjacent to the Arche de la

Nature, a tranquil area of forest, wetland and

nature reserve. lemans-tourisme.com/en

Rochefort

The beaches of Charente-Maritime are hard

to resist, but just 8km inland from the mouth

of the Charente river stands Rochefort, a town

steeped in maritime adventure. In the 1660s,

‘Sun King’ Louis XIV charged his right-hand

Place Colbert, Rochefort © Gillian Thornton

man Jean-Baptiste Colbert with finding a

strategic spot for a state-of-the-art dockyard.

Tucked round a bend on a tidal waterway and

invisible from the open sea, the quiet village of

Rochefort ticked all the boxes.

Work began in 1666, the town designed in

a grid pattern around a vast central square.

What else but Place Colbert? The new

dockyards built ships for the royal navy, fully

supported by a full complement of craft

workshops producing rigging and other

essential fittings. Centre stage today is still

the Corderie Royale or Royal Ropeworks.

Step inside this long, elegant factory for a

demonstration of traditional skills.

Royal Ropeworks, Rochefort © Gillian Thornton

Step back in time too at the Musée National

de la Marine inside the Hôtel des Chausses,

former headquarters of the Navy Commander.

And visit the exhibition dedicated to the

building of Hermione, a replica of the frigate

that took the Marquis de La Fayette to

North America in 1778 to support George

Washington. In 2015, Hermione 2 sailed to

America and beyond, but is currently under

restoration in Bayonne.

Ships frequently returned to Rochefort with

new exotic plants and scientific discoveries.

Walk amongst the foliage of the Jardin de la

Marine and immerse yourself in the Begonia

Conservatory, a legacy from a trip to the

West Indies in 1688. Botanist Charles Plumier

brought back six small plants, naming them

Begonia after his benefactor Michel Bégon,

intendant in charge of the king’s new naval base.

One of Rochefort’s most famous adventurers

was 19 th century naval officer and writer

Pierre Loti so make sure to visit his former

home, reopening on 10 June after several

years of restoration. This extraordinary town

house contains a succession of themed rooms

including a Renaissance room, a Turkish

salon, a Gothic room and a mosque. The

perfect party property, whatever your mood!

rochefort-ocean.com/en

Biarritz

With its heady mix of Belle Epoque and

Basque architecture, its chic shops and

buzzing surf scene, Biarritz is the seaside

resort that literally has something for

everyone, tucked away in the far south-west

corner of Nouvelle-Aquitaine.

I recommend first-time visitors to head straight

to the beach and just walk the undulating

promenade in either direction. Head north

past the Casino behind the Grande Plage

towards the lighthouse and the sumptuous

Hôtel du Palais, former home of Emperor

Napoleon III and his Spanish wife Eugénie who

commissioned the summer palace in 1851.

Sunset over the old port © Gillian Thornton

The rich and famous of Europe soon began

to build properties of their own as Biarritz

grew in popularity and many of their lavish

homes still line the streets. And in the early

20 th century, Hollywood ‘royalty’ followed

along with couture designers catering for a

stylish clientele.


Grand Plage Biarritz © Gillian Thornton

South of the Grande Plage, the coast path

skirts the old fishing port, the Port des

Pêcheurs, with its colourful cottages and

quayside restaurants, then winds over the

headland to the offshore statue of the Virgin.

Erected in 1865 and reached by a footbridge,

the high-level walkway offers sweeping views

of the coastline.

Step through the Art Deco frontage of the

aquarium that faces the Virgin to commune

with creatures from the deep, not just from

local waters but from the Caribbean and

Pacific too. Then drop down into the Vieux

Port and on to the wild expanse of the Côte

des Basques, the beach for serious surfers.

The sport arrived in Biarritz from California

in 1957 with a Hollywood film crew but local

residents – les Biarrots – had discovered the

joys of sea bathing long before the mid-19 th

century when Victor Hugo became a devotee.

They are big rugby fans too and several former

French internationals run businesses in the

town. If you cannot get a match ticket, enjoy

the full-on atmosphere and good-natured

rivalry in any local bar.

For an authentic souvenir, take home some

traditional striped Basque linen made into

shopping bags, cushion covers and table

linen. Or some Basque produce such as cured

Les Halles market, Biarritz © Gillian Thornton

Rocher de la Vierge, Biarritz © Gillian Thornton

ham from neighbouring Bayonne or jars of

Espelette peppers. Browse the indoor stalls at

Les Halles for temptation and inspiration, but

be warned, resistance is futile!

destination-biarritz.fr/en

French immersion courses

Learn French - naturally

and experience the culture of France from the beaches of

Normandy to the heart of Paris

Hear French,

Experience French,

Speak French!

xpfrance.net


The dreamiest castle

of the Loire Valley:

AZAY-LE-RIDEAU

There are more than 300 chateaux in the

Loire Valley, ranging from the majestic castle

of Chambord with its 440 rooms, to the tallest

castle in France - the seven-storied Brissac.

Few of these historic monuments tempt you

to seriously covet them as a home (imagine

the heating cost), but the exquisite Chateau of

Azay-le-Rideau is outright irresistible. Beware

– a visit may motivate you to dream of waking

up to the stupendous views from the windows,

of wandering its gorgeous flower filled gardens,

and of holding mouth-watering banquets for

your nearest and dearest in its magnificent,

vaulted kitchen says Janine Marsh.

The great French writer Honoré de Balzac

called the chateau of Azay-le-Rideau: “A

polished diamond set in the Indre… it bathes

like a princely creature…” When you enter

through the gates and stroll the tree-lined

avenue that leads to the fairy tale like castle, a

mix of Gothic and Renaissance gorgeousness

with pointy towers, delightful dormer windows,

and delicately carved façade, set on a tiny

island between two branches of the river Indre

– you’ll see exactly what he meant.

The Chateau was commissioned in 1518 by

Gilles Berthelot, the Mayor of Tours and

Treasurer-General for King Francois I, on the

site of a former medieval fortress. The fortress

had been burned down in 1418 by order of the

Dauphin Charles (whom Joan of Arc believed

she was sent to have crowned as Charles VII

King of France) after he claimed to have been

insulted by a castle guard when he passed

through with his army at the age of 15 (he also

had 350 soldiers butchered as a punishment).

For a while, the town was called Azay-le-Brûlé

– Azay the Burnt.

Berthelot wanted his fabulous new home to

combine the latest technical innovations from

Italy, and the best of French architecture. The

turrets, moat and cobbled sentry walk are

token gestures towards the look of a fortress,

because this is actually a dream home of the

16th century. Berthelot put his wife Philippe

(in those days it was a name for both men and

women) in charge of the construction while

The windows of the chateau are among its most beautiful features

Carved portraits of Kings and Queens of France

in the ceiling above the staircase



he was away organising the King’s finances.

Philippe, who had inherited the ruin, proved

to be an excellent project manager, ensuring

masons, carpenters and workmen were on

site at the right time. Most deliveries were

transported by river, which is why castles were

almost always built by a river - for instance

the roof slate came from Anjou (around 30km

away). By 1525 the castle’s construction

was complete. Gilles paid homage to King

Francois by having his initials and symbol – a

salamander – carved into the walls. Alas Gilles

and Philippe never got to enjoy their dazzling

new home.

Philippe’s cousin Jacques de Semblançay,

who was another Treasurer to the King, was

ordered to send a huge amount of money to

the King’s Marshall, Lautrec, to fund a military

campaign. The money went missing and

though there was no evidence of wrongdoing

by either man, 82-year-old Semblançay (who

had a reputation for honesty and had served

several Kings of France) was hanged for

corruption. Gilles knew the King would come

for him and fled in 1527, and died in 1529.

Despite Philippe pleading her innocence, the

King seized the unfinished castle and gave

it to the Captain of his Guard. In places you

can see carvings begun and doomed to be

forever unfinished. Despite being incomplete,

the castle is a work of genius, elegant but

with an intimate feel of a home rather than

a showcase. For its day it was incredibly

innovative. Until then, spiral staircases outside

were the norm for castles, but Azay-le-

Rideau’s staircase is inside, and leads straight

from landing to landing, with the direction

reversing on each floor.

Abandoned after the French Revolution,

the castle was sold on, and today is under

state ownership. It is one of the dreamiest

jewels of the Loire Valley. The rooms are

furnished sumptuously with tapestries,

paintings and furnishings.

In 1950 the river was widened, which slowed

down the current and created a water-mirror

effect, reflecting the castle’s knockout beauty

in the motionless water.

A salamander, the emblem of King Francois I, carved above the fireplace in the salon

The castle kitchen

Recent renovations revealed some of the

chateau’s secrets, for instance the practice

of bulrush matting for the walls, a tradition

spotted by an eagle-eyed historian whilst

examining a 16th century painting. The mats

lined the walls keeping the rooms warm in

winter, cool in summer, and they also lined

the floor. It was believed that the smell of the

reeds, combined with herbs, expelled bad

moods, cleansed the air and helped control

fleas! Philippe’s bedroom is now adorned with

hand plaited bulrush mats and smells divine.

The Chateau of Azay-le-Rideau is one of the

most charismatic, captivating and covetable

of all the Loire’s enchanting castles.

Back view of the chateau

Top tips for your visit to

the Chateau of

Azay-le-Rideau

• From mid-July to the end of August, a

son et Lumière (sound and light show)

takes place at the castle (19h-23h).

In 2025, to celebrate the 500th

anniversary of the castle’s construction,

there will be 24 special theatrical

performances with a theme depicting

the visit to the Chateau of King Louis XIII

in 1619. It is impossible not to ‘ooh’ and

‘ah’ at the beguiling sight of the fairy-tale

castle seemingly floating on water, with

its reflection shimmering in the moat,

perfectly still except for ripples caused

by a dipping dragonfly, a lazy fish or an

amorous frog looking for company.

• Visit from the end of

November through

December to see the

chateau dressed up to

the nines for Christmas,

its rooms filled with

enchanting decorations

(with a different theme

each year).

• Relax in the secret garden filled with

seasonal flowers and herbs in front of

the chateau.

• Take a break in the lovely town, there

are several excellent restaurants,

and the local wine is superb. The

magnificent local Touraine vineyards

produce dry whites, sweet wines, reds,

rosés and sparkling wines as well as

Azay-le-Rideau’s little known white

wine, Chenin. There’s evidence that

vines have been grown here since

Gallo-Roman times and the wines of

Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau reflect the

centuries of savoire-faire.

touraineloirevalley.com;

azay-le-rideau.fr/en


© Karen Tait

Sea. Whether you approach by road, cycle

path or water – the town sits on the River

Yonne and Canal du Nivernais and is a

cruising hub – it’s an impressive sight, with the

cathedral and abbey towering above the town.

The best views are from the Pont Paul Bert or

pedestrianised bridge over the river.

The Gothic-style St-Etienne cathedral was

built between the 11th and 16th centuries, with

densely packed stone carvings and statues

around its portal. Inside, there are stunning

stained-glass windows – it’s hard to believe

some of the vibrant blue and red glass dates

from the 13th-century. In the 11 th -century crypt,

you can see an ancient fresco and remains of

the earlier cathedral built on the same site.

The Abbey of St-Germain also has a notable

crypt, with the oldest known church frescoes in

France (9 th century). You can visit the cloisters

too, as well as a museum dedicated to

archaeology and early Christian history. There

are many other churches and chapels to visit

in Auxerre including the St-Eusèbe church.

© Karen Tait

Discover

AUXERRE

This ancient town offers a beguiling mix

of history, the arts and indulgent cuisine

says Karen Tait.

At the heart of the old town of Auxerre in

Burgundy, gleaming golden moon and sun dials

take pride of place on an ornate 15 th -century

stone clocktower. For me, it’s the most eyecatching

feature in this charming town, but it’s

certainly not the only one. The historic centre

is a treat for visitors, with such a rich mix of

remarkably well-preserved Romanesque,

Gothic and Renaissance buildings that it can

feel like stepping back in time.

Around 150km south of Paris, Auxerre was

once an important stop on the trade route

between the Mediterranean and the North

Medieval marvels

The stark beauty of the cathedral and

churches contrasts with the brightly coloured,

half-timbered medieval facades lining the

pedestrianised streets and the buzz of the

lively squares. There are plenty of places

to take a break, perhaps for glass of local

Chablis or a tasty alfresco lunch while

people-watching.


UNIQUE FRENCH RIVER CRUISES

EARLY BOOKING DISCOUNT OFFER FOR 2026 DEPARTURES

© Karen Tait

If you want to try traditional local dishes,

choose a rich boeuf bourguignon or coq

au vin – or perhaps pôchouse, a freshwater

fish stew. Snails are another Burgundian

speciality (escargots de Bourgogne are

cooked in the shell with parsley and garlic

butter) while nearby village Tonnerre is

famous for its gougères, cheesy choux pastry

puffs. For fine dining, head to the two-

Michelin-starred La Côte Saint-Jacques or

the one-star l’Aspérule restaurant.

You can see all Auxerre’s sites of interest by

simply following the brass arrows embedded

in the ground. They’re part of the signposted

route, ‘In the footsteps of Cadet Roussel’ –

an 18th-century bailiff, Guillaume Roussel

became the subject of a satirical song during

the Revolution. Naturally, a statue of him

features on the route. Guided tours are also

available via the tourist office.

In the Middle Ages, protective walls were built

around the town (in fact there had been walls as

far back as Gallo-Roman times) and although

these were destroyed in the 18 th century,

vestiges still remain, including a stretch by the

river – look out for old watchtowers and city

gates as you wander through the picturesque

streets. The Tour d’Horloge (clocktower) once

formed part of these walls. As you wander

under the turreted arch, stop a moment to

appreciate its unusual format, with two hands

© Karen Tait

The medieval clocktower © Karen Tait

showing the usual hours (solar time) and the

lunar hours with the moon phase.

A Ville d’Art et d’Histoire, Auxerre has several

museums and galleries. Set within an 18 th -

century townhouse, the Musée Leblanc-

Duvernoy features fine furniture, tapestries

and ceramics, with period rooms arranged as

they would have appeared in the 1700s and

1800s. There’s also a Natural History Museum,

ideal for families.

Europe’s largest river

cruise line

WHY CHOOSE TO CRUISE WITH CROISIEUROPE?

The Loire

A Royal Legacy

5 to 7 Night Cruises

from £ 1 092 per person

2025 Departures:

From April to October

49 years’ experience

and 50 ships

ALSO AVAILABLE: FLY-CRUISE PACKAGES FROM LONDON AND REGIONAL AIRPORTS, call us for details

CHÂTEAU D’AZAY-LE-RIDEAU BORDEAUX ETRETAT

Bordeaux

Land of Chateaux and Claret


from £ 858 per person

2025 Departures:


Superb

French cuisine

INFORMATION AND RESERVATIONS: Tel. 01756 691 273 • sales@croisieurope.co.uk

Paris & Normandy

Along the Meandering Seine


from £ 646 per person

2025 Departures:


For our full range of special offers visit our website: www.croisieurope.co.uk

All prices are based on two adults sharing a cabin, category C, are correct at time of going to press, subject to availability. All the flight-inclusive holidays are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you

pay you will be supplied with an ATOL Certificate. Please ask for it and check to ensure that everything you booked (flights, cruise, hotels and other services) is listed on it. CroisiEurope UK Ltd partners with Blue

Water Holidays Ltd for ATOL protection. Blue Water Holidays is a company registered in England and Wales, number 4085664. Registered Office: Bowers Wharf, Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD23 2PD. - IM067100025.

Non-contractual photos - Copyrights: Alexandre Sattler, AdobeStock, Shutterstock. - Creastudio 2502013

All inclusive for drinks

onboard


Plus Beaux Village. Pontigny abbey, one of

France’s greatest Cistercian abbeys, is only

15km away, and the Unesco-listed Vézelay

Basilica is under an hour’s drive.

So, whether you’re looking for a deep dive

into history or a relaxing gastronomic

getaway, Auxerre has all that and more.

Auxerre Townhall © Karen Tait

The town has many parks and gardens too,

with the most popular being the Parc de

l’Arbre Sec, a botanical garden by the river. In

June, it hosts Catalpa, a free three-day music

festival. Many other concerts and events

are held in the town, including the Festival

Garçon, la Note!, in July and August, across

many bars, cafés and squares.

Auxerre is at is liveliest on market days – head

for Place de l’Arquebuse to buy fresh produce,

artisan crafts and regional delicacies from

cheese and charcuterie to honey, mustard

and wine, or simply linger over a coffee and

pastry absorbing the atmosphere. Shoppers

will love all the boutiques and stores in the

pedestrianised centre too, the ideal place to

pick up a memento of your visit.

© Karen Tait

town is famous for being the gateway to

Burgundy from Paris, close to the capital

but in the heart of the world-renowned

wine region.

The wine village of Chablis is only a short

drive away, where you can enjoy wine

tastings at one of the many domaines and

lunch in one of its excellent restaurants.

Other pretty villages include Irancy (known

for its red wines) and Noyers-sur-Serein, a

Getting there

Direct trains from Paris take about

1.5 hours

By car, it’s about two hours (150km)

from Paris via the A6 motorway; or

around five hours (450km) from Calais

Paris-Orly is the nearest airport, about

160km away

Nivernais Canal © Karen Tait

Water’s Edge

When you’re ready to escape the busy streets,

wander down to the river for a stroll or bike

ride – or perhaps a boat tour. When the

Nivernais Canal, which more or less follows

the River Yonne, was completed at the end

of the 18th century, it linked the Loire and

Seine rivers and was a key route for shipping

Burgundy wine to Paris.

Now, of course, it’s all about pleasure cruising,

and Auxerre is the base for several hire

companies and luxury hotel barges. You can

rent electric boats or hop onto one of the tour

boats which with guided commentary on the

town and once bustling river industries.

The Quartier de la Marine neighbourhood

is where locals made their living from the

waterways, including boatmen, tanners

and merchants – street names and signs

are a reminder of this activity. Place St-

Nicolas is now a busy restaurant square

but a colourful statue of the patron saint

of sailors and merchants still looks out

from one of the facades.

Gateway to Burgundy

Auxerre is ideal for a weekend trip (under

two hours by train or car from Paris), but

equally great as a base to stay longer and

discover more of the surrounding area. The


Scattered across this bucolic landscape you’ll

find a whole slew of gorgeous villages, several

of them carrying the Plus Beaux Villages

du France label, dotted with churches,

monasteries and masses of cultural interest –

and the food and wine are out of this world.

process of fermentation, and the principle

of pasteurisation – was born in Dole, in

the northwest of Jura. However, he lived in

Arbois, and his well-preserved former home,

including his private laboratory, is open as

the Maison de Louis Pasteur. Though he

had an apartment in Paris, this was the only

home Pasteur ever owned, which perhaps

gives an indication of the affection he felt

for the place, set in the centre of the village,

on the banks of the river. Pasteur also owned

vineyards in nearby Montigny-les-Arsures,

which as it happened proved a great setting

for the study of micro-bacteria.

© Rudolf Abraham

© Jerome Genee, via Canva

The GREAT ESCAPE

Slow food, waterfalls

and Vin Jaune in Jura

Rudolf Abraham hikes in the unknown

and utterly delicious region of the

Jura in eastern France.

Travelling through Jura, it’s impossible to

separate the food, wine and culture from

the setting. Here on France’s eastern border,

rubbing shoulders with Switzerland, the

spectacular sun-drenched landscape of

vineyards and woodland is broken abruptly

by a series of limestone cliffs. This is the so-

called Jura escarpment, which runs across the

landscape from north to south and defines

the edge of the Jura plateau. Meandering in

loops and horseshoe bends these cliffs form

a succession of steephead valleys, their rocks

separated into bands like a vast layer cake, and

taking on hues of orange and gold in the glow

of the setting sun. The whole place is almost

ridiculously photogenic. It was Jura’s folded,

fossil-rich limestone geology which gave its

name to the Jurassic era – so it’s tempting to

nickname it the original Jurassic Park.

Arbois lies around 70km southeast of Dijon,

a Petite Cité de Caractère (Little Town of

Character) at the heart of the Arbois AOC

wine region. The River Cuisance runs through

the centre of the town, gliding below old stone

bridges, shooting down the occasional weir,

and overhung with closely-packed houses. The

main landmark is the 12th century Église Saint

Just, built in Romanesque and Gothic styles,

with a prominent 16th century bell tower

visible from afar. Actually the bell tower was

originally about 20m higher – Archduchess

Margaret of Austria had it built as the tallest

one in Jura – but a 17th century fireworks

display, unwisely housed in its upper portion,

went wrong and blew the top off.

One of the best spots to sit in the sun while

soaking up the atmosphere in Arbois is a cluster

of tables beside the river, just behind the church

– these are served by the bar just across the

water, Troquet Les Archives. There are plenty of

places in the old town centre to taste and buy

local wines – Domaine Rolet for example has

an excellent caveau de dégustation.

Louis Pasteur – the great 19th century

chemist and microbiologist, whose pioneering

work included the development of the earliest

vaccines, our modern understanding of the

© Rudolf Abraham

Just a little to the east of Arbois, tucked

below cliffs at the head of a valley near the

source of the Cuisance, there’s a beautiful

set of tufa waterfalls, all lush and green with

overhanging moss, the water cascading into a

broad shallow pool. (Tufa is formed by soluble

limestone in the water, which is gradually

deposited on the rocks and plants that form

the waterfall over hundreds of years.) There’s

a little 11th century church nearby, once part

of a former Benedictine abbey. We walked to

the falls from Arbois, following a path above

the cliffs which form the edge of the Jura

escarpment, including some breath-taking

viewpoints at Belvédère de la Roche de Feu.

Arbois might be the capital of the Jura wine

region – but it’s the tiny village of Château-

Chalon which is most closely associated with

that greatest and most prestigious of Jura

wines, Vin Jaune.


Vin Jaune is made from the Savagnin grape,

and gets its characteristic, fantastically rich

and complex taste from being matured for

over six years, in barrels which are not topped

up to compensate for evaporation. This

creates a pocket of air in the barrel, leading

to a film of yeast developing on the wine’s

surface. It’s a beautifully rounded wine, with

a distinctive nuttiness, and notes of toasted

walnuts and almonds, dried fruit, and honey –

and it can be aged for decades. Think along

the lines of a big plate of morels and ceps as

the perfect accompaniment.

Château-Chalon sits perched on the edge of

the Jura escarpment, overlooking the valley

below – with a Plus Beaux Villages label,

and sporting a Romanesque church, plenty

of old stone houses, and a keep which is all

that remains of a former castle. We reach the

village by way of a Roman road, which cuts

down across one stretch of the escarpment

with razor-like precision. This was the Roman

road between Besançon and Lyon, and this

section is still laid with large stones worn

smooth over the course of two millennia –

and here and there still bearing the deep-cut

tracks of ancient cart wheels, like a rustic

version of a street transposed from Pompeii.

Once in Château-Chalon we do the obvious

and very sensible thing – head straight for the

garden of Le Bouchon du Château, a popular

restaurant at the near side of the village, and

order a glass of Vin Jaune – stupendously

good, and a rich golden colour in the hot

afternoon sun.

Jura has no shortage of cheeses. There’s

Comté of course – the town of Poligny, just a

10-minute train ride south of Arbois, is its defacto

capital. But there’s also Mont d’Or, a

delicious soft cheese, the origins of which are

seasonal – it was traditionally made in winter,

when there was less milk, and these small

cheeses were on the one hand a more practical

alternative to making vast Comté wheels. Mont

d’Or has a distinctive, woody flavour. As well as

being matured on spruce boards, it is wrapped

a strip of spruce bark, and the round box you

buy it in is also made of spruce. Some opt to

Arbois © Rudolf Abraham

Vin Jaune © Michel Joly, BFC Tourisme

Chateau-Chalon © Zimnevan via Canva

Cheese and wine perfection © CIVJ BFC Tourisme

eat Mont d’Or straight out of the box with a

spoon (this definitely gets my vote), while others

insist that the best way to enjoy it is baked (you

put the whole box in the oven) and accompanied

by baked potatoes. And Jura wine, of course.

Bleu de Gex, also known as Bleu du Haut-Jura,

is a surprisingly mild blue cheese from the high

valleys of the Upper Jura.


© Maud Humbert, BFC Tourisme

And then there’s Morbier made in two stages,

and again something of a winter’s tale. With

less milk available in the winter months,

farmers would half fill the moulds with the

curds from that day’s milking, and cover the

surface with a layer of ash to preserve it. Then

the following day they’d pour the curds from

that day on top to fill the mould, leaving the

characteristic dark streak through the centre

of the cheese.

Jura is also renowned for its charcuterie, in

particular its Morteau and Montbéliard smoked

sausages. Morteau, with its aromas of juniper,

was the first French product to be awarded

PDO certification. Key to these smoked

sausages are the local smokehouses (tuyé) –

keep an eye out for the large, tell-tale wooden

chimney on farmhouses which have a tuyé.

Baume-Les-Messieurs © JGS25 via Wikipedia

The highlight of this trip to Jura was Baume-les-

Messieurs, a tiny village at the meeting point

of several steephead valleys which fan out like

the fingers of a hand, dark green and framed

by a wall of cliffs. The village centres on Baume

Abbey, a former Benedictine monastery, refounded

in the 9th century on the site of earlier

monastery, by Berno of Baume who later went

on to found the great abbey at Cluny. Just

across the road from the abbey, Le Grand

Jardin is an exceptionally lovely guesthouse

and restaurant which makes a perfect base for

exploring the surrounding area.

The real showstopper lies a short way up one

of the adjacent valleys – the large, fan-like

tufa falls here are even more impressive than

those at Arbois, while in the cliffs above, you’ll

find the entrance to the Grottes de Baumeles-Messieurs,

bristling with stalagmites and

stalactites, and opening up into chambers

reaching up to 80m in height.

© Rudolf Abraham

And the best way to link up some of the

region’s beautiful villages and vineyards,

foodie hotspots and natural wonders? Arbois,

Poligny and Lons-le-Saunier all lie on the train

line between Besançon and Bourg-en-Bresse,

so it’s a doddle to get here, and just as easy

to skip back and forth between them. And

they’re also linked by L’Échappée Jurassienne

– a hiking trail which unravels itself across Jura

from west to east, taking in some of the most

beautiful scenery this corner of France has to

offer. The ‘Jura Escape’ provides a wonderful

way to explore the region at a languid pace

– with the added benefit that you can drink

all the Vin Jaune you want without having to

think about who’s driving. And however you

travel, you’re never far from a village or town

with plenty of delicious places to eat.

Montagnes du Jura

en.montagnes-du-jura.fr


Villeneuve. She died in the year 587 and in

the 10 th century, Benedictine Monks built the

Abbey of St André to shelter her bones and

offer a place to stay to pilgrims on the route

de Compostela.

From the 13 th to the 15 th centuries, Villeneuve

lez Avignon was a fortress town when the

Rhone river was a natural frontier between

France and Provence, though in the 14 th

century, French Kings allowed the cardinals of

Papal Avignon to build themselves sumptuous

mansions there.

Until around the 18 th century, Villeneuve was

joined to Avignon via a bridge as the Rhone

was closer to Villeneuve then, but after it

was destroyed by a storm the river changed

course. Villeneuve, once a mighty rival to

Avignon, became a much sleepier place.

© Mairie Villeneuve lez Avignon

Villeneuve lez Avignon © Jérémie le Maout, Grand Avignon Destinations

Secret France

Villeneuve lez Avignon

Across the river Rhône which flows past the ancient Papal city of Avignon in

Provence, lies Villeneuve lez Avignon - a place that most visitors to its famous

neighbour never discover. But I promise you the short journey to discover this little

gem is well worth it says Janine Marsh.

A little bit of history

Villeneuve lez Avignon has a long and rich

history. Legend has it that in the 1 st Century

AD, Saint Martha, the Patron Saint of Avignon

“resurrected” a shepherd from the town

after he drowned in the Rhone (resurrections

were rather more frequent in those days).

Some 400 years later, another Saint settled

in Villeneuve as the locals call it, a Visigoth

princess-hermit who devoted her life to

God on Puy Andaon, the hill that dominates

What to see in and do in

Villeneuve

Villeneuve has a very different vibe from its

tourist-packed neighbour Avignon across

the river. A small town with a village vibe,

the narrow, ancient streets are filled with

magnificent old buildings, works of art,

monuments, cafés, restaurants, boutiques

and boulangeries.

Must-sees include the soaring Philippe le Bel’s

Tower, created in the 13 th century to control

the entrance to the long-gone bridge – on

a clear day you can see all the way to the

Alpilles from here. The majestic 14 th century

Abbaye Saint-André Fort perched above the

town is a superb example of military buildings

of the time; from here there are outstanding

views of the hilly vineyards, Avignon and the

Papal palace (at its most spectacular on a late

afternoon on a sunny day) and as far as Mont

Ventoux, the “Giant of Provence.”

The terraced gardens of the former Abbaye

Saint-André, spilling down the slopes of

Puy Andaon are classified among the

100 most beautiful in France with Italian

and Mediterranean style gardens with

Fort Abbaye Saint-André © Jérémie le Maout, Grand Avignon Destinations

ponds and gazebos, old roses, wisteria and

Mediterranean plants, olive trees. A chapel

in the grounds dating back 1000 years is

where Saint Casarie is said to have died.

Her funerary stone rested here until the

French Revolution and is now exhibited in the

Collegiate church of Notre-Dame, once the

chapel of a mansion belonging to a cardinal.

The Royal abbey (which was redesigned in

the 17 th century) is elegant, has an eclectic

collection ranging from art to dolls, and

regularly hosts exhibitions. And don’t miss the

café – great for brunch, a snack and the views

(from April to September).


'Real' South of France Tours

Abbaye Saint-André © Mairie Villeneuve Lez Avignontions

Founded by Pope Innocent VI in the 14th

century, the Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction

The terraced gardens of the former Abbaye

Saint-André, spilling down the slopes of

Puy Andaon are classified among the 100

most beautiful in France with Italian and

Mediterranean style gardens with ponds and

gazebos, old roses, wisteria and Mediterranean

plants, olive trees. A chapel in the grounds

dating back 1000 years is where Saint Casarie is

said to have died. Her funerary stone rested here

until the French Revolution and is now exhibited

in the Collegiate church of Notre-Dame, once

the chapel of a mansion belonging to a cardinal.

Weekly markets: Thursday morning food market,

Saturday morning brocante (flea market).

Pop to the tourist office to find out about events,

festivals and many more museums, monuments

and attractions (1 Place Charles David).

grandavignon-destinations.fr

Eat out:

Delicious dishes: Restaurant l’Emulsion, under

the porticoes, fabulous fresh, seasonal dishes

with friendly service.

Locals love: l’Heure Bleu, a superb salon de

thé with fabulous light dishes and scrumptious

cakes. It’s also a B&B in an old mansion.

Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction

Where to stay: Hôtel de l’Atelier 3* – a

beautifully restored 16 th century mansion,

complete with creaking stairs, comfy rooms

and oodles of atmosphere.

How to get there: Hop on the bus line 5 from the

city – it takes around 10 minutes to Villeneuve.

Or hire a bicycle and enjoy a 5-10 minute lovely

ride across the Rhône river. On the way back,

explore La Barthelasse river island between the

two towns, along quiet shady roads between

orchards and agricultural fields.

EXPERIENCE THE

AMAZING CULTURE,

HISTORY, FOOD

AND WINE IN

OCCITANIE

THE REAL SOUTH OF FRANCE

realsouthoffrancetours.fr


NOSTRADAMUS:

France’s Prophet

of doom

They say he predicted the Great Fire

of London, the French Revolution,

Napoleon, World War II, 9/11 and more.

And as times grow ever more unsettled,

Nostradamus is back in the news. But

who was he really?

Early Days

The world’s most famous prophet, Michel

de Nostredame was born in St-Rémyde-Provence

in 1503, to a wealthy grain

dealer whose Jewish father had converted

to Catholicism to avoid the Inquisition and

Musée Maison de Nostradamus © Samy Kheloufi, Salon de Provence Tourist Office

took the name

Nostredame.

Little Michel was

a bright spark and

learned the basics

of a humanist

education in Latin,

Greek, Hebrew and math from his maternal

grandfather, but his college education in

Avignon was cut short when an outbreak of

plague closed the school. It sparked a lifelong

interest in healing and medicinal herbs.

Montpellier

After attending medical school in Montpellier,

he made a name for himself as a travelling

apothecary treating plague victims. An

offhand remark about statues briefly brought

him some unwanted attention from the

Church; as a descendent of converted Jews,

he would always have to be very careful.

He married a woman in Agen and had two

children, all of whom died of plague. His

inability to treat them may have shaped his

bleak worldview.

Nostradamus’ herbal garden at © Samy

Kheloufi, Salon de Provence Tourist Office

He wandered around the south of France

and Italy until 1547 when he married

wealthy widow Anne Ponsard in Salon-de-

Provence, and fathered six children, practiced

medicine and invented new recipes for herbal

cures, cosmetics and hair dyes. Like many

Renaissance humanists, his interests were wide

ranging. He later helped finance his friend

Adam de Craponne’s innovative canal that

brought water from the Durance to Salon and

irrigated the Plaine de la Crau.

The Prophesies

Nostradamus, by his son César de

Notre-Dame, Public domain, via

Wikimedia Commons

Michel de

Nostredame would

have remained a

little-known had he

not begun writing

almanacs, an

interest that led to

his most famous

work, Prophecies

first published

in 1555. These

942 ambiguous

quatrains appeared

in groups of 100 called Centuries, predicting

the most important historical events from 1557

to the end of days (the year 3797, in case

you’re wondering). The explosive growth of

the printing press saw his writings proliferate

across Europe.

Nostradamus himself said that his inspiration

came from ‘natural instinct and poetic passion’.

His sources were ancient Greek and Latin

classics, the Bible, and especially the Mirabilis

liber of 1522, an anthology of prophecies

from well-known seers of the time. Some

believe he would open books at random, look

at the stars and go from there. To avoid the

Church’s wrath, he sneakily wrote in Latin,

Provencal, Italian and Greek including puns,

abbreviations, and anagrams, mixing up the

usual word order.

In 1555, Nostradamus was summoned to Paris

by the very superstitious Queen Catherine de’

Medici to explain his prophesies. He was afraid


St-Rémy-de-Provence


Catherine de Medici was a fan of

Nostradamus, Paintinng from the

workshop of François Clouet, Public

domain, via Wikimedia Commons

she would execute

him, but instead

she was impressed,

especially three

years later when

this quatrain: ‘The

young lion will

conquer the old

one upon the field

in a single combat. He will pierce his eye in a

golden cage, who will then die a dreadful death’

came true when during a joust the young Count

of Montgomery drove a lance into the golden

visor of her husband, Henri II and pierced his

eye, eventually killing him.

In 1564, Catherine and her son, the young

Charles IX called on Nostradamus in Salon.

The Queen made him Counselor and

Physician-in-Ordinary to the crown, although

seriously ill, he died not long after, in 1566.

He was, oddly, buried inside the wall of the

Cordeliers’ church; tales spread that he was

still alive in there writing prophecies, as ‘new’

ones kept appearing after his death. Fake

news is nothing new!

After Nostradamus

In dedicating his Centuries

to Henri II, Nostradamus

predicted he would have

detractors. ‘…as time elapses

after my death, my writings

will have more weight than

during my lifetime.’ He

was certainly right about

that; over 200 editions of

his Prophesies have been

published since his death.

Copy of Garencières'

1672 English translation

of the Prophecies

© Zereshk Wikimedia

Commons

In 1939, after the invasion

of Poland, Magda Goebbels, wife of Hitler’s

propaganda minister, stumbled upon a

prophecy which seemed to predict the rise

of the Nazis (and Mussolini) ‘In Germany a

new sect shall be born which shall renew

ancient pagan times. Roman power shall be

completely abased, a great neighbour imitates

his footsteps’. Joseph Goebbels ran with it,

distributing brochures in neutral countries

proving Nostradamus himself predicted Nazi

victory as inevitable.

But the Allies beat him to it. MGM had also

produced short films about the famous

soothsayer, in the dark days of 1938 and 1939,

and air-dropped their own brochures over

German-occupied territories in 1941, foretelling

the Nazi’s defeat: ‘At last the two leaders shall

be disjointed by the hunt, by a humane rule of

Anglican breed, the daughter of the English

Isles shall re-establish unity, justice, shall lock

war within its bars.’

What did he predict for 2025?

A quick google of them-who-know-more about

the occult than your scribe (who admittedly

knows nothing) produced a couple of easy

winners: ‘There will be a great noise in the West

and a leader who will divide the land.’ Bingo!

He also predicted a new pope, right again.

The Prophet of Doom was big on climate change.

The dry Earth will become more parched and

there will be great floods. There’s grim news for

the Amazon (presuming it’s what Nostradamus

meant by ‘the garden of the world’). There’s a

new plague, a fireball hitting the earth, and one

that could predict the end of the war in Ukraine,

negotiated by France and Turkey: Through long

war all the army exhausted, so that they do not

find money for the soldiers; instead of gold or

silver, they will come to coin leather, Gallic brass,

and the crescent sign of the Moon.

But don’t bet the farm on it. Someone figured

out that at best - Nostradamus has only been

right 13.5% of the time.

In Salon-de Provence

You can visit his house, the Musée Maison de

Nostradamus, complete with mannequins of

the man. After his tomb was desecrated in the

Revolution, he was moved to the Collegiale de

St-Laurent, where he remains. His prophesies

translated into English are all online.


The beautiful town of Saumur in the

Loire sits about 3 hours south of Paris,

Caen and Saint-Malo. Famous for its

Loire Valley wines, picturesque château

and equestrian history, Saumur is a

perfect spot for a long weekend.

Framed by vineyards and rivers, Saumur is

filled with elegant townhouses built from

the local white tuffeau limestone creating

a strong visual identity, reinforced by a

stunning château that overlooks the town.

With a rich history, wonderful wines and a

year-round programme of events, Saumur is

a superb destination.

river approach if you’re not a fan of a steep

climb - and enjoy its panoramic views, sample

lunch in L’Orangeraie bistro or take a guided

visit to learn about the castle’s rich past,

architecture and museum collections. Fans

of horse-riding will particularly appreciate

the equestrian exhibition in the upper floors,

including the full skeleton of the English

champion racehorse, ‘Flying Fox’.

Saumur has a long equestrian history and

was home to the Cadre Noir, the elite French

Horse and Riding Institute founded in 1822

by King Charles X (brother of the beheaded

King Louis XVI). Now based 5 km west of

the centre, it remains a highly prestigious

school for classical riding and offers a regular

programme of galas and presentations.

Loire Valley Wines

Spotlight on

SAUMUR

The town centre is mostly flat and easy to

explore, with 64 historic monuments including

a photogenic town hall and half-timbered

buildings on the Place Saint-Pierre, where a

weekly market is held on Saturday mornings.

Alongside familiar chain stores, you’ll find

independent boutiques, antique shops

and Barre de Chocolat, a fabulous artisan

chocolaterie that has been tempting locals

and visitors for nearly twenty years.

As you meander through the centre, you

catch glimpses of the impressive Château de

Saumur perched above, guarding the town

for more than six centuries. These days, the

château hosts cultural events, with open-air

films projected onto its walls in summer. You

can walk here from the centre – avoiding the

It would almost be rude

to visit Saumur and not

sample the local wines,

including the regional

speciality crémant, a

light, sparkling wine

similar to champagne.

You’ll find a wide variety

of producers and cellars in Saumur, including

Louis de Grenelle - although you could miss

it as it’s 12 metres underground, filled with

thousands of bottles resting at the perfect

temperature! The land around Saumur

features acres of well-tended vineyards with

producers of every pedigree and size, most of

whom offer wine-tasting visits.

100 Chateau | The de Good SaumurLife France The Good Life France | 101

towns, helping you to unearth a treasure to

restore or simply take home. You can even

create a tailor-made break or retreat: think of

all the elements of your dream visit to France

and they will make it happen, right down

to recommending restaurants for a special

occasion and booking the table for you.

Curious visits

Follow the Loire 5 km northwest and you’ll

reach the truly amazing Pierre et Lumière

(stone and light), a subterranean sculpture

trail in a former quarry, ideal for escaping

the rain or very hot weather. This circuit

features 20 hand-sculpted recreations of

local landmarks in incredible detail, from

châteaux to parish churches, carved from

a block of limestone or directly into the

quarry wall.

La Maison Trumeau

“One of the great delights of Saumur is the

wine,” says local Mandy Murphy who, along

with husband Willo, regularly hosts food and

wine retreats at their gorgeous townhouse La

Maison Trumeau. “Loire Valley wines are so

diverse and accessible, you can get a truly

excellent bottle here for a few euros. One

of our passions is to cut through the jargon,

to encourage people to taste and compare

different French wines.”

Mandy and Willo

Pierre et Lumiere

personal attention of small-scale producers

to the glossy, larger domaines, we take care

of all the vineyard visits, tastings, meals and

accommodation so you can simply savour

the experience.”

The couple also hosts upholstery retreats

that make the most of the weekly brocantes,

antiques fairs and flea markets in neighbouring

Next door is the Musée du Champignon

(mushroom museum), which is surprisingly

fascinating! The hands-on tour explains how

mushrooms have been grown for centuries in

these underground caves whose temperature

and humidity offer ideal growing conditions.

In the other direction, 15 km southeast of

Saumur, the UNESCO-listed Abbaye Royale

de Fontevraud is a must. Its 900-year history

includes 36 abbesses, Richard the Lionheart,

nobility, royalty and criminals (read more

about it here).

La Maison Trumeau is a 6-bedroom

townhouse in a quiet location that’s only a

ten-minute walk from the heart of Saumur.

Mandy and Willo have renovated this 1850s

property with a loving attention to detail so

that it feels both homely and stately, filled with

intriguing brocante pieces and curiosities.

“Whether you’re a seasoned wine enthusiast

or a curious beginner, our Wine and Food

retreats are designed to make everyone

feel at ease, taking the intimidation out of

wine tasting,” explains Mandy. “From the

Eleanor of Aquitaine’s effigy at the Abbbaye Royale de Fontevraud


Treats for the tastebuds

Local food specialities include la fouée,

little pockets similar to a pitta, traditionally

made with scraps of bread dough and filled

with savoury treats. Equally delicious are

les galipettes, large mushrooms stuffed with

butter, shallot and crème fraîche.

Those with a sweet tooth will appreciate the

pommes tapées (flattened apples), which

you can find in the village of Turquant, 9 km

southeast of Saumur. To make the apple

harvest last throughout the year, locals would

peel the apples, bake them in a bread oven

until they dried out, then flatten them artfully

with a mallet.

For an evening meal, it would be hard to beat

L’Alchimiste, a cosy and authentic restaurant

seating up to 20 diners. Its husband-and-wife

team offer refined, delectable dishes in an

unpretentious, welcoming setting.

To visit nearby

If you have a car, drive along the Loire to

explore the pretty villages on either side of

Saumur including Montsoreau, which has a

flea market on the second Sunday of every

month. At Turquant, be sure to walk to the

artists’ centre built into the rocks; it feels

like a movie set and gives you a glimpse into

troglodyte living.

The Bioparc of Doué La Fontaine is a truly

unique zoo, (18 km from Saumur). Their

ethos is about biodiversity and protecting

threatened species: the 2,000 animals have

Chateau de Rivau

Chateau de Rivau

plenty of space to roam in limestone settings

that feel organic and natural.

Saumur is close to many of the Loire Valley’s

most spectacular chateau including the

stunning Chateau de Rivau with its fairy talelike

gardens, the royal fortress of Chinon, Ussé

AKA the “real sleeping beauty castle” as it’s

gloriously pretty and was the inspiration for

French author Charles Perrault to write the

Belle au Bois Dormant, the Sleeping Beauty,

story, and the Chateau de Brissac, which, at

seven stories, is the tallest castle in France.

ot-saumur.fr/en;

lamaisontrumeau.com

La Maison Trumeau Retreats 2025

fabulously easy.

Insurance services for English speakers in France

Medical Insurance

Home Insurance

Car Insurance

Visa Insurance

and more

We work with more than 30 insurers and many more

providers so we are always able to find the best and

most affordable solution for your situation.

We’ve got you covered.

33 (0)5 35 65 50 50

hello@fabfrenchinsurance.com

www.fabfrenchinsurance.com

Creative - Wine & Gastronomy - Upholstery

In a beautiful 19th century Mansion

Saumur, Loire Valley

Lamaisontrumeau.com

We can help with:

• Moving to France or Spain

• Setting up and running a

business

• Help with VISA, residency

and work permits and taxes

• Legal advice and Insurance

• Healthcare advice

B +33 950 75 81 92

a +34 711 05 32 28

pleasehelp.eu k


© Peter Jones

With 632 Michelin-starred restaurants, France

is far and away the most decorated country

in the world. But is Michelin still the best

indicator of haute cuisine? Anna Richards

dives into the world of food

Everyone knows the little red book. I’m not

talking about the Bible, but for restauranteurs,

I might as well be. For those in the restaurant

business, receiving a Michelin star is often

seen as the Holy Grail. It’s viewed as the

ultimate badge of success, and chefs spent

Reinventing

French Cuisine

their lives slaving away in the hope of

attaining one.

At its heart, the Michelin Guide was a clever

marketing plan for the company to sell more

tyres. Michelin Tyres was founded in 1889 in

Clermont-Ferrand, Auvergne by the Michelin

brothers. In 1900, looking for a way to boost

their sales, they came up with an ingenious

plan. Deducing that inspiring motorists to

travel domestically equalled more customers

in need of tyres, they brought out a motorist’s

guide to France, recommending hotels,

sights and, most importantly, restaurants. The

Michelin Guide was born. The first Michelin

star was awarded in 1926.

The Michelin Guide might no longer tell you

the price of fuel (in constant flux in France),

but it became, and stayed, the global

benchmark for haute cuisine. Rumours fly on

how to obtain three-star heights — is it true

that undercover Michelin reviewers drop their

fork on the floor, and the time it takes waiters

to pick it up impacts the star rating? Critics

say that the Michelin guide is elitist, or simply

‘too French’, and it’s true that much of the

restaurants featured in France are classic,

fine dining establishments. Of 632 French

restaurants which currently hold Michelin

stars, only Racines in Nice is vegetarian.


Michelin Star level display © peter Jones


Michelin’s attention meant that Lyon’s traditional, offal-heavy restaurants, bouchons, were preserved

banks were reluctant to lend to restaurateurs,

particularly those young with no experience of

running their own restaurant.

L’Ancienne Auberge of Georges Blanc, the chef holds 3 Michelin stars and

5 Gault et Milau Toques for his restaurant Georges Blanc, Vonnas, Ain.

Ironically, Michelin’s main competitor was

originally seen as the chauvinistic one. The

ostentatious yellow and red Gault & Millau

guide was first published in 1972, after

beginning as a magazine, launched by a pair

of journalists-cum-restaurant critics.

“People thought Gault & Millau

was a bit French-centric. Bons

vivants, very patriotic, the

beret-wearing, baguette-waving

types,” says Stéphane Brehier,

current editor-in-chief of the

Gault & Millau magazine. “It wasn’t at all the

case. In 1976 there was a 20-page spread

on Chinese cuisine. In 1978 they went to

2 Michelin Starred restaurant

Paul Bocuse – Collonges-au-Mond-d’Or,

Lyon © Aurelio Rodriguez for

Paul Bocuse Collonges-au-Mond-d’Or

Myanmar (then Burma). Who went to Burma

in those days? This is the spirit I include in the

magazine now. We explore shōchū (a spirit

made from sake dregs) in Japan and loimulohi

[blazed salmon] in Finland.”

The Gault & Millau Guide works from a points

system which scores out of 20, with any

restaurant graded as 10 or higher awarded

a place in the guide. Between one and five

toques (chef’s hats) are then awarded for

outstanding cooking, with restaurants needing

to score 19/20 or higher to receive five toques.

Many of the award-winning restaurants

featured in France are vegetarian or fusion,

and many are run by young chefs embarking

on their first venture. Every year, Gault &

Millau awards a Dotation Jeune Talent (Young

Talent Grant) to chefs under 35 to help them

to open their first restaurant.

Lyon was a city arguably transformed

by the Michelin Guide. In a chicken-egg

scenario, no-one really knows whether Lyon’s

restaurants were extraordinary before the

arrival of Michelin, or whether the abundance

of motorways around the city meant that

they simply got more attention. Either way,

Michelin’s attention meant that Lyon’s

traditional, offal-heavy restaurants, bouchons,

Corinne Bec and Najem Atmeh of Ayla with their Gault & Millau plaques

were preserved, and the first chef ever to be

awarded six Michelin stars (three for each

of her two restaurants), was Lyonnaise local

Eugénie Brazier in 1933. Now, it’s one of the

cities where Gault & Millau has championed

young talent.

Franco-Lebanese Ayla opened in June

2023, Corinne Bec and Najem Atmeh’s first

restaurant.

“We met at another Lyonnais restaurant called

the Grand Réfectoire,” says Bec. “We cooked

lots of Franco-Lebanese cuisine at home and

realised nowhere was offering anything similar

in Lyon. Najem got an email from the Institut

Bocuse referencing the Gault & Millau Young

Talent Grant when the idea was really just

germinating, so we went for it. Gault & Millau

were hesitant to take us at first because it was

such early doors!”

Once they’d been accepted though, Atmeh

and Bec knew there was no turning back.

It took some time to find a premise, with

the pandemic fresh in everyone’s minds,

“We received a donation to help us set up,” says

Atmeh, “and Gault & Millau supports in other

ways for instance helping get the best deals

(and plenty of freebies) from caterers, and we

were given plenty of useful things, like hundreds

of table napkins.”

All recipients of the Gault & Millau Young Talent

Grant are inspected anonymously by a critic

within the first year of their opening. Bec and

Atmeh were awarded 12.5/20, enough to get

them a toque in their very first year of opening,

and just half a point away from receiving a

second toque. Although Ayla caters to all diets,

the one dish that never changes on their menu

is the house favourite, a vegetarian dish of

tempura vine leaves served on labneh.

“Vegetarian dishes are actually tougher to

produce, and involve more creativity,” says Bec.

“People often misjudge vegetables. Take chard

for example, people will often say ‘I’ve got bad

memories of chard, I don’t like it’, and then when

they try it cooked well, they realise it’s delicious.”

Now a team of five, Bec and Atmeh began with

just one other member of staff, cooking, waiting

tables and serving wine to dozens of covers.

“We look back now and wonder how we did it,”

says Bec.

Ayla’s success has been instantaneous, and

it’s now one of the top restaurants in the city.

Without the input from Gault & Millau, the

project might never have got past the idea stage.


Place du Palais © Gillian Thornton

Timeless Poitiers

Capital city of the historic Poitou

region, west-central France, Poitiers is

a relaxed city with some high-octane

thrill options on the doorstep. Gillian

Thornton went to investigate.

Strategically situated at a crossroads of trade

routes, the Roman town of Limonum was a

buzzing place to be around the 1st century

AD with an amphitheatre seating more than

30,000 citizens of the Empire. And 2,000

years on, 21st century Poitiers is still an

attractive option for a relaxed weekend break

or as a stopover on a tour through Nouvelle-

Aquitaine.

With its rich history and compact, walkable

centre, Poitiers is a delight for lovers of history

and heritage, but there is a contemporary vibe

too with half of all residents being under 30,

thanks to the city’s large student population.

And with one of the country’s biggest and best

theme parks on the doorstep, plus a brandnew

water park, Poitiers is keeping up the

ancient Roman tradition of providing a good

time for all.

But history is never far away. The amphitheatre

was one of the largest in Roman France, though

it was demolished in the 1850s to allow for an

urban makeover. Today only fragments remain

in cellars and incorporated into other buildings,

but other traces of the ancient city still paint an

intriguing picture.

Roman statue of Athena

discovered in Poitiers in 1910

© Gillian Thornton

I am standing in the

underground gallery

of the Sainte-Croix

Museum, where the

spirit of the Empire is

still tangible thanks

to exposed Roman

foundations uncovered

beneath the former

abbey of Sainte-Croix.

I have a real sense of

people too as I linger

over fragments of rare

gladiator helmets and a

stunning marble statue

of Athena discovered

by construction workers

in 1910.

Poitiers takes its name from a Gallic tribe, the

Pictones or Pictavi, who lived in the Oppidum

Limonum or ‘hill fort of the elms’ above the

river Clain, but there were people here before

that. The museum is packed with fascinating

archaeological finds including prehistoric

limestone slabs engraved with animals, as well

as medieval collections, local history and fine

art including many works by women artists,

amongst them sculptor Camille Claudel,

model and lover of Auguste Rodin. Tip: Ask for

the Highlights leaflet in English.

Place Marechal Leclerc, © Gillian Thornton


With a current population of around 90,000,

Poitiers is small enough to feel intimate and

my tranquil base at the Hôtel de l’Europe, part

of the reliable Logis network, is ideally placed

for exploring the main sites on foot, just a

short walk from the Hôtel de Ville that stands

behind a large café-lined square. With so

many pedestrian streets between the mellow

limestone buildings, Poitiers exudes a tangible

feeling of calm.

At the highest point of the city on the site of

the Roman forum stands Notre-Dame-la-

Grande, not in fact the cathedral but probably

more famous thanks to its Romanesque

design, richly painted interior, and ornately

carved façade dating from the 12th century.

The church is closed for major restoration

work until May 2027, but you can still view the

carvings through the perimeter fence and take

a virtual journey inside through an exhibition in

the Tourist Office opposite. To explore the city

at your own pace, download the free app, Visit

Poitiers, that works with GPS as you follow a

choice of walking routes to discover heritage

sites, local legends and unusual stories.

If you can’t resist the aromas and colours of

a French indoor market, pop into Les Halles

next door to Notre-Dame, then walk behind

the Tourist Office to visit the imposing Palace

of the medieval Counts of Poitou and Dukes

of Aquitaine. The vast ceremonial hall was

built in the 12th century during the residence

of Eleanor of Aquitaine, wife of English

Plantagenet king Henry II, after her marriage

to Louis VII of France was annulled. Joan of

Arc was questioned within these walls and the

building was later used as the Law Courts. Today

it is one of the finest examples of medieval civil

architecture in France with its soaring roof,

decorated columns and immense fireplaces.

Notre-Dame-la-Grande © Gillian Thornton

Palace of Poitiers © Gilian Thornton

Lilyan Lagardère of François Frères where they’ve been making umbrellas

since 1882 © Gilian Thornton

Saint-Pierre Cathedral has links to Eleanor

and Henry too. They married in 1152 in the

Romanesque church that once stood on this

spot, commissioning the new cathedral in the

1160s and financing a stained glass window

of the Crucifixion, one of the oldest surviving

in France. Look out for the royal couple in

the bottom panel. Other highlights include

the ceiling paintings of the Last Judgement,

only discovered in 2008 thanks to a leak in

the whitewashed ceiling, and the carved 13th

century choir stalls, the oldest in France.

Then head downhill towards the multiple

attractions of the cathedral quarter. En route,

I stop at François Frères in Grande Rue, one of

just five firms in France producing high-quality

handmade umbrellas for every occasion and

in a tempting variety of styles and colours.

Artisan craft at its very best.

12th century wall paintings at the 5th Century Saint-Jean Baptistery

© Gilian Thornton


Guingette Pictave © Sphérique fr, Visit Poitiers Tourism

Cross over Rue Jean Jaurès that links the

town centre with the river to visit Sainte-Croix

Museum and the Saint-Jean Baptistery, one

of the oldest surviving in the Western World.

Dating from the 5th century and altered many

times, the atmospheric interior includes large

arches, 12th century wall paintings and a

sunken font.

Poitiers was dubbed the ‘City of 100 Spires’

and if you like a church with a legend

attached, head to Sainte-Radegonde, close to

the banks of the Clain. Queen of the Franks

in the 6th century through a forced marriage,

Radegonde is said to have slain a winged

dragon, the fearsome Grand’Goule or ‘Big

Mouth’ who was eating the poor nuns of Saint-

Croix Abbey. Today Radegonde is patron saint

of passing exams, very useful in a student

community like Poitiers, and a medieval

painted dragon is on show in Saint-Croix!

With the main heritage sites concentrated

around the town centre, it is easy to combine

Roman and Romanesque with retail and

restaurant therapy, although sometimes the two

go hand in hand. At Zara, inside the Cordeliers

shopping mall, I find arches from a 13th century

chapel spanning the fashion rails, and Le Nid

de Cicognes deli and café boasts arches from

an old bridge leading to Eleanor’s Palace.

Hungry? For food-truck fare or just a riverside

apéro, head to the Guingette Pictave on Ilot

Tison, site of an old sawmill on the Clain. I

also enjoy a very different kind of atmosphere

beneath the elegant arches of Les Archives, a

Aquascope © JL AUDY Moment Factory, Futuroscope

gourmet restaurant inside a former Jesuit chapel

attached to the Hotel Mercure. And meat-lovers

should head to Chez Cocotte for succulent

steaks from a variety of regional cattle.

No visit to Poitiers is complete without a visit

to Futuroscope, a unique theme park offering

over 40 attractions and shows that transport

visitors across planet Earth and beyond.

Expect thrilling roller coasters and immersive

4D experiences, as well as gentler rides for

younger visitors. Outside the park gate is

Aquascope, an all-year-round water park with

eight water slides and four themed universes.

All just 20 minutes from Poitiers by car, train

or bus. Somehow I think the Romans would

have approved!

Gillian flew direct to Poitiers with Ryanair

from London-Stansted. The city is 1h15 from

Paris by train with a station in the town

centre and another at Parc du Futuroscope

which is less than 10 minutes from Poitiers

via a TER line.

Thinking about relocating to France but

uncertain about what you need to know?

Our free live webinars provide direct access to our

team of experts who can address all your questions about the

visa application process, French residency requirements, navigating

French bureaucracy, and more aspects of moving to France.

Sign up for our upcoming sessions.

www.fabfrenchinsurance.com


Seasons in

France

3super

Summer

break

destinations

JUNE:

Angers, Loire Valley

Angers castle

Puy du fou

Anger tapestry

JULY:

Le Touquet Paris-Plage

Le Touquet, AKA “the Monaco of the north” is

a favourite with Parisians for its vast sweep of

silky golden sand and chichi little town, plus

it’s just a couple of hours from Paris – hence

the name. The town was developed by a

linoleum magnate from Leeds at the beginning

of the 20 th century, designed to attract British

gentry. You’ll spot Cotswold style cottages,

thatched roofs, Tudor style manor houses

and coiffed English style gardens – not quite

what you’d expect to see in a northern French

seaside resort. But it works.

A great place to visit all year round but in

June, Angers is in bloom and a delight to

see. Besides a mighty castle, the royal city

has a vibrant and richly endowed museum

district. Must-sees include the Maison

Bleue and the Galerie David D’Angers,

with its vast collection of monumental

19th Century sculptures by the renowned

local craftsmen, as well as the imposing

Collegiale St-Martin church, which dates

back to the pre-1000 AD Carolingian

period and is built over older buildings from

the end of the Roman Empire.

The old centre dates from medieval times

and its cobbled streets are lined with ancient

buildings, dominated by the massive chateau

of the Plantagenets, home of the astounding

Apocalypse Tapestry, the largest medieval

tapestry ensemble in the world.

Enjoy a guided tour of the Espace Cointreau

distillery where the delicious Cointreau liqueur

has been made since 1849, and discover the

art of cocktail making (with a tasting!).

From Angers you can take a shuttle bus to the

extraordinary and brilliant Puy du Fou theme

park (around 1hr 15m), a vast Hollywood style

history park which features a vast Roman

arena with real chariot races – complete with

rucking gladiators and a parade of animals;

Viking ship attacks, stupendous night-time

shows and much more.

116 | The Good Life France Angers


From the start, it was the place where

jetsetters went to see and be seen. Hollywood

celebrities, millionaires, politicians, anyone

who was anyone came here to play. Author

Ian Fleming wrote Casino Royale based on Le

Touquet’s casino, where coincidentally Cole

Porter wrote the music for “Anything Goes”

on the casino piano, and Sean Connery came

here to sign his first James Bond contract.

Serge Gainsbourg got his big break singing

in a restaurant here. Winston Churchill spent

summers here and once claimed that so many

of his cabinet were there on holiday that he

might as well hold office there.

Le Touquet was designed with sports in mind.

Tennis courts, a horse racecourse, swimming

pools, polo, horse riding, golf – it’s rumoured

that Queen Elizabeth II learned to sand yacht

here as a teenager!

There’s an abundant café lifestyle,

restaurants galore, art deco street market

and swanky French shops.

AUGUST:

Royan, Charente Maritime

Royan in the southwest of France, in Charente-

Maritime, is a classified “Ville d’Art et

d’Histoire”. This holiday resort combines oldworld

charm of the Belle Epoque with modern

architecture, a buzzing port and sea front with

plenty to see and do in the town and close by.

Get your bearings with a tour of the town.

In the aftermath of World War II, Royan,

which suffered huge damage, needed

reconstruction on a grand scale. The

architects in charge of the city’s rebuilding

in the 1950s, experimented with new

forms, techniques and materials to design

a model city, aiming for an open and

modern look and feel. Royan’s updated

look is unique and comes from combining

modern architecture and in particular

the influence of Brazilian architect Oscar

Niemeyer, combined with Charente-

Maritime coastal style, don’t miss the

spectacular indoor market and church of

Notre Dame.

The sea front is more traditional, bars and

restaurants line the esplanade and make for a

great, relaxing place to while away the hours.

Round the bay, the Belle Epoque style villas

are a great contrast after the city’s concrete

vibe. Stop at Pointe De Suzac, a short drive

from Royan. This natural “balcony” over the

Gironde Estuary and protected natural area

with forests and lots of wild birds. At nearby

French planning

& architectural services

Fully qualified English speaking architects and planning consultants offering full design

and planning services for any size of project, anywhere in France.

New Build . Extensions Renovations . Swimming Pools

Retrospective Permits . Barn Conversions . Châteaux

siret : 881 631 642 00025

email: enquiries@frenchplans.com

www.frenchplans.com

established in 2002

Meschers visit the extraordinary Trogladyte

caves. And take a short detour to Talmontsur-Gironde,

a ‘Plus beau Village de France’

and ‘Petite Cité de Caractère’. The village

was founded in 1284 on a rocky promontory

overlooking the Gironde Estuary by Edward 1st

of Aquitaine. Cobbled streets, pretty houses,

artisan studios and stunning views await.


France Calendar

SUMMER

JUNE

A view of France each month to

illustrate the stunning seasons

– Summer in France is a time of

sunshine.

Every weekend we invite you to share your

photos on Facebook and X /Twitter – it’s a

great way for everyone to “see” real France

and be inspired by real travellers snapping

pics as they go.

Join us on Facebook,

Instagram and X to enjoy our photos of France and share your photos

too (tag us on Instagram #thegoodlifefrance)

Ile de Ré,

Charente-

Maritime

The little island

off the coast of

La Rochelle is

a favourite with

the French for

its authentic

vibes, laid back

lifestyle and

spectacular

summer sunsets.

Photo: Saint-

Martin-de-Ré,

Jorg Kelly

JULY

Seven Valleys,

Pas-de-Calais

The glorious

countryside

of the Seven

Valleys in

northern France

is absolutely

spectacular. And

this timeless and

authentic area

is not as hot as

southern France

in the in the

peak summer

months.

Bonnieux, Provence

The lavender bursts into clouds of purple blooms and

scents the air, especially on a stormy day…

Photo: Helen Leather

AUGUST


What’s

NEW

Summer 2025

LUMINISCENCE Reims

Welcome to Summer in France - fêtes, flea markets and festivals galore across the

whole of France – here’s our pick of the major events…

Summer officially begins in France on June 21 and ends on 23 September, 2025.

National events in

Summer 2025

July 14 – Fête National (Bastille Day)

A one-day holiday that commemorates the

storming of the Bastille during the French

Revolution in 1789. An impressive military

parade is held on the Champs-Elysées and

celebrations feature firework displays in cities,

towns and villages across France. The night

before, street dances or Bals des Pompiers are

hosted at fire stations by local firemen. English

speakers call Fete National ‘Bastille Day’

which perplexes the French no end! (Discover

the history of Bastille Day on our podcast).

August 15 – L’Assomption – Assumption of

the Virgin Mary

A public holiday.

20-21 September – Journées Européennes

du Patrimoine – European Heritage Days

Hundreds of historic buildings, famous

monuments, Government sites and places of

interest – some of which are normally closed

to the public, for instance the Elysée Palace

and the Banque de France (we know that

might not sound exciting, but trust us, the

opulent interiors are jaw-droppingly gorgeous)

open their doors to the public. Details:

journeesdupatrimoine.culture.gouv.fr

Major Anniversaries

The Hillsides, Houses and Cellars of

Champagne celebrate their 10th anniversary of

UNESCO World Heritage Site status, and the

Route du Champagne en Fête celebrates its

30th birthday.

Main Events

LUMINISCENCE REIMS

until August 16 2025

UNESCO-listed Champagne vineyards

LUMINISCENCE is a cultural phenomenon

in France, and this year, you can catch the

illuminating and immersive music and light

show in Reims at the 1000-year-old Basilica

of Saint-Remi. Live music featuring a choir,

an incredible 360° light show projected onto

every inch of the church interior, revealing its

architectural details, the 24m high vaults, the

soaring columns, the stained-glass windows. As

venues go, this is a spectacular historic church, a

UNESCO World Heritage Site, named in honour

of Bishop Remigius, who baptised King Clovis

of the Franks (a Germanic tribe who conquered

Fault and made it Francia (France) and 3000

of his warriors in 498. The 12th-century-style

chandelier has 96 candles, one for each year

of the life of St Rémi (as the Bishop became),

whose tomb is marked by a mausoleum from

the mid-1600s. LUMINISCENCE Reims is an

extraordinary performance in an extraordinary

monument. The cathedral comes alive. History

becomes an experience.

Book in advance to make sure you don’t miss

this one. Tickets at: luminescence.com/reims

Tall Ships Race 2025 Normandy & Dunkirk

4-13 July 2025

The Tall Ships Races 2025 will start from Le

Havre, Normandy, with three days of festivities

from 4-7 July. The majestic 50-strong fleet will

make its first stop in Dunkirk (Northern France)

three days later on 10 July, staying there

until 13 July. Expect shoreside festivities and

celebrations – a huge and popular spectacle.

Main Square Music Festival, Arras,

Pas-de-Calais

4-6 July 2025

Arras holds one of Europe’s major musical

events – The Main Square Festival.

It’s a mix of the best up-and-coming

artists with leading international artists.

mainsquarefestival.fr

THE TOUR DE FRANCE 2025

5 – 27 July 2025

In 2025, the Tour de France’s Grand Départ

will set off from Lille in the north of France,

hurtling across the Haute-de-France region

for four days before heading off across France

– a route of 3,320km through Normandy,

Brittany, the Loire Valley, Southern France

including Carcassonne, Toulouse and

Montpellier, and the Alps. The greatest bike

ride on earth will attract millions of viewers


in person and on TV with a return to its

traditional finish in Paris on the Champs-

Elysées (after finishing in Nice last year due to

the Olympic Games).

Les Chorégies, Orange, Provence

June-July 2025

The Roman theatre of Orange hosts one of

the oldest French festivals – Les Chorégies,

founded in 1869. It’s an amazing setting for

music and theatrical performances. The

ancient Roman wall provides superb acoustics,

not to mention sitting on the stone seating

(take a cushion), where spectators have sat for

over two thousand years, is a truly remarkable

experience. choregies.fr

Montreuil-sur-Mer Antiques Fair

Antiques Fair, Montreuil-sur-Mer,

Pas de Calais

14 July 2025

A grand Antiques Fair takes over the whole

of the upper town. Hundreds of stalls,

music, fireworks and terrific restaurants in

this ‘destination gastronomique.’

Menton Music Festival, Menton,

French Riviera

22 July – 8 August 2025

An annual music festival which combines

beautiful classical music with stunning

scenery in the lemon and orange hued town.

festival-musique-menton.fr

Menton

Nice Jazz Fest

24-27 July 2025

The sunny Mediterranean city celebrates all

things jazz with a superb programme featuring

French and international artists in a dedicated

jazz “village” with bars, a food court and a

petanque pitch. When the performances are

over, join the afterparties for acoustic jam

sessions under the stars. nicejazzfest.fr/en

Nuit des Etoiles

1-3 August 2025

The French Astronomy Association organises

La Nuit des Etoiles with events across the

country such as observing the stars from the

terrace in the Tour Montparnasse in Paris or

a visit at the Cité de l’Espace in Toulouse.

Toulouseafastronomie.fr/les-nuits-des-etoiles

Braderie de Lille

6-7 September 2025

Europe’s biggest flea market takes place

through the day and night (bring a torch). Up

to 10,000 sellers, 200km stalls, and 33 hours

of non-stop flea market action. It starts at 14h

on Saturday and ends at 23h on Sunday.

The European Concierge

Expert support for ALL Visas,

Carte de séjour, Driving

Licence Exchange / Vehicle

imports / ANTS registration,

CNF (French Citizenship)

We manage your visa application

from start to finish - start your

new life in France the right way.

theeuropeanconcierge.com


How to learn

French online

Netflix account to get a few more extra hits.

You can choose your favourite genre with

recommendations to suit you – everyone

learns more easily when they’re enjoying

something. If you start a show and don’t finish

it, you’ll find it stored in your library so you can

quickly return to it.

There’s also a music section, lots of practice

games, tests and fun ways to help you learn

vocabulary, sentence construction and to

help reinforce your understanding.

Live French lessons online

What really sets Lingopie apart is the

availability of live lessons. Join students

from around the world with a teacher in an

online classroom where everyone gets a

turn to speak, to listen to each other and to

realise that you’re not alone in finding it hard

to say certain words, it’s very reassuring,

and the teacher is endlessly patient. Topics

are clearly listed: Lost in Paris, travelling

in France, Trivia, Looking for a Job, etc.,

and there are multiple lessons daily, and at

different times to suit different time zones.

Lingopie is suitable for beginners,

intermediate, and advanced learners. There

are even children’s programmes and films

for your kids or the whole family to practice

French together.

Brilliant – and affordable

Not only is Lingopie a brilliant and fun way to

learn French – but it’s also not expensive. Take

out a 3-month subscription (the cost is roughly

the equivalent to two cups of coffee per

month from a well-known chain of American

coffeehouses), or annually (discounted) or

lifetime access (heavily discounted).

You can even take a free trial. And –

subscribe through the link below – and they’ll

give you 55% off! Find out more, enjoy a

free trial and start your learning experience

at lingopie.com

When it comes to learning French, immersion

is certainly the best and quickest way to learn,

followed swiftly by one-to-one lessons – in

a classroom or online. But most of us don’t

have the time or money to learn like this.

And, actually, a one-to-one lesson a week

isn’t enough, and an immersion for a week

or two once a year won’t get you speaking

French fluently. This is where Lingopie steps

in, offering online learning combined with live

classes with a real teacher.

Lingopie is a subscription-based video

platform that uses TV shows, movies,

audiobooks, podcasts, and more to help you

learn a new language – French is one of many.

It’s available on desktop, mobile, and TV

screens.

All the films and TV shows have subtitles

available, but it’s not like the usual subtitles,

where you try to read/listen in French and

English at once while you’re trying to learn and

also immerse yourself in the culture of France.

With Lingopie, you can choose to pause

after each subtitle so that you have time to

really let the words soak in. And Lingopie has

a ‘Grammar Coach’ – you can click on the

French words to hear them repeated, and

to see a full explanation of what they mean,

plus details whether the words are feminine,

masculine, singular or plural and what type

of word they are, e.g., noun, verb, adjective

etc. It’s an invaluable tool for getting to grips

with French grammar with an explanation

of a sentence, for example, the use of

conjunctions and prepositions and their

context in a sentence.

You’ll find an extensive library of movies

and TV shows, plus you can connect your


SPOTLIGHT ON

Hautes-Pyrénées

Gascon farmhouse with mountain views, just

90 minutes from the vibrant city of Toulouse.

I just love the feeling of space and fresh air

you get in the Hautes-Pyrénées, which is what

attracted us in the first place together with the

fact that properties are very affordable here.”

Access to the region is easy via road, train and

air, with international airports in Tarbes and

Lourdes and major international airports in

Toulouse and Biarritz. The area is well served

by the A64 autoroute running the length of

the Pyrénées joining Toulouse with Biarritz.

Property hotspots

Hautes-Pyrénées © Cyrille Moingeon

Bridge in the sky at Pic du Midi © Florent Gay, Pic du Midi

The Hautes-Pyrénées is a lesser-known

department located in the southwest of

France, in the Occitanie region. It sits more

or less halfway between the Atlantic and

Mediterranean coasts, bordered by Spain in

the South and the Gers department in the

north. Known for its dramatic landscapes,

charming villages, rich cultural heritage, and a

variety of outdoor activities, Hautes-Pyrénées

has become an increasingly popular place to

live for both locals and expats. The region is

a haven for nature lovers, sports enthusiasts,

and those seeking a slower pace of life.

“I’m always struck by how spacious it feels

here,” says Yvonne Russell, who has lived in

the region for 15 years and manages a team

of estate agents for Leggett Immobilier. “I’m

originally from Edinburgh, but now I live in a

The Hautes-Pyrénées is great for outdoor types © Cyrille Moingeon



Dominated by the Pyrénées mountains, with

the famous Pic du Midi housing the highest

observatory in Europe, the department

offers some of the most stunning landscapes

in France. Snow-capped peaks, mountain

lakes, deep valleys, lush forests and an

extraordinary range of farming, agriculture

land and vineyards.

“The foothills and the

north of the department

have a very temperate

climate, with mild

winters, extended

springs and Indian

summer autumn seasons

with lots of sunshine

and comfortable

temperatures”, adds

local Leggett agent,

© Cyrille Moingeon

Giles Tilley who has

lived here for over 30 years. “The Pyrénées

are more family focused than the Alps. The

department boasts 14 ski resorts, including

those in the Vallée de Luz-Ardiden, the Grand

Tourmalet, and Cauterets. These resorts

cater to skiers and snowboarders of all levels.

For cross-country skiing and snowshoeing

enthusiasts, there are numerous trails in the

region’s forests and valleys.”

chalet style home with heated swimming pool

within easy reach of ski resorts from around

€430,000.

Other great locations

Cirque de Gavarnie

While it’s no surprise that the ski/spa resorts

are property hotspots, the rest of the

department attracts those looking for the

temperate climate and great mountain views.

The Pyrénées National Park, which covers

much of the South of the department, has

dramatic scenery and a chance to experience

unspoiled nature. This protected area is

home to a variety of wildlife, including bears,

Pyrenean chamois, marmots, and golden

eagles. The Cirque de Gavarnie, described

by Victor Hugo as “the colosseum of nature”

boasts the largest waterfall in Europe and can

be explored on foot or by donkey!

A 6-bedroom property with a swimming pool like this will cost around €450,000

attracting millions of visitors each year. It’s

possible to buy a 5-bedroom, 1930s art-deco

style apartment with a large terrace and

outbuildings here for under €200,000 and

property in the town offers great potential for

holiday rentals.

Tarbes, capital of the Hautes-Pyrénées

(44,000 residents), is a bustling town known

for the Jardin Massey, the Haras (formerly

a National Stud) specialising in Anglo-

Arab horses and the local mountain pony,

the Merens and the Musée Massey, which

showcases the region’s art and history. It is

a well-known equestrian town and hosts the

Equestrian festival at the Haras each year.

Apartments range from €80,000 upwards

and town houses start from about €170,000.

You can buy a spacious family home

renovation project just outside of Tarbes for

under €250,000.

Other notable towns in the Hautes-Pyrénées

include Argelès-Gazost, a picturesque village

nestled in the Pyrenean foothills, and Madiran,

home to a tiny but unique wine region,

specialising in strong reds which pair perfectly

with the local cuisine of game, duck and pork.

Traditional regional cuisine includes garbure

(a hearty vegetable and pork soup/stew), Porc

Noir (black pork) de Bigorre, haricot Tarbais

(Tarbes beans) and smoked trout.

“If you’re looking for plenty of space, head

southeast of Tarbes to one of the rural villages

like Libaros, where there are only 15 residents

per square kilometre,” recommends Giles.

“Here you’ll find typical L-shaped Gasconstyle

properties, a ready to move into

farmhouse with lots of land will start at from

around €375,000.

6-bedroom chalet, with swimming pool in Pouzac, near Bagnères de Bigorre,

will cost from €345,000

For ski-lovers, there are properties in all price

ranges with a modern lock-up and leave

1-bed apartment (37m2) with balcony on a

Golf Course with stunning mountain views in

Bagnères de Bigorre, a vibrant spa town of

going for under €135,000 and a 4-bedroom

When the snow melts, the Hautes-Pyrénées

transforms into a paradise for hikers, mountain

cyclists and climbers. The Tour de France

passes through the Pyrénées every year,

attracting cycling enthusiasts to the area to

experience the famous mountain climbs for

themselves. The region is also known for its

excellent conditions for paragliding, offering

stunning aerial views of the Pyrénées. Many

towns and villages have rugby, football,

cycling and tennis clubs and some have public

swimming pools and gyms.

One of the most notable cultural landmarks

is the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes.

Lourdes, population 14,000, one of the

most famous pilgrimage sites in the world,

© Cyrille Moingeon

There are plenty of bargains to be found, for instance this 6-bedroom near

Trie-sur- Baïse, for sale at €151,200 (May 2025)

“Another great location is Trie-sur-Baïse, a

former farming village 40 minutes east of

Tarbes that has a thriving expat community

including English, Americans, Dutch, Belgians,

Germans and Australians. In villages like this,

you can find plenty of 4-bedroom 2-bathroom

houses with outbuildings and gardens for

between €300,000 and €350,000.”


Our latest properties for sale in the Hautes-Pyrénées

Income Potential

Béarnaise Farmhouse

Outdoor Living

Castelnau-Rivière-Basse €198,000

Ref: A30685 - 4-bedroom farmhouse with

garden, studio and outbuildings.

Madiran €1,845,000

Ref: A24522 - 5-bedroom estate with outbuildings,

tennis court, pool and views.

Geaune €499,500

Ref: A31701 - 4-bedroom maison de maître

with pool, garden, terrace and garage.






Energy class: D Climate class: D

Riverside Beauty

Gîte Business

Beautiful Views

Lannux €395,000

Ref: A33211 - Charming 4-bedroom riverside

house with pool, barn and mature gardens.

Vignec €1,230,000

Ref: A33308 - 13-bedroom thriving gîte business,

minutes from renowned ski resorts.

Lahitte-Toupière €249,700

Ref: A28112 - 3-bedroom home with large

garden, pool and countryside views.

© Cyrille Moingeon


Energy class: F Climate class: C


Energy class: D Climate class: D


Energy class: E Climate class: E

Year-round living

The cost of living in the Hautes-Pyrénées is

generally lower than in major French cities

like Toulouse, Bordeaux or Lyon, making it an

attractive destination for those looking for

a more affordable lifestyle. The area offers

a mix of rural homes, modern apartments,

and traditional village properties, catering to

various tastes and budgets.

The lifestyle in the Hautes-Pyrénées is relaxed,

with a strong focus on family, community,

and outdoor living. The region’s small-town

and village atmosphere fosters a sense of

community, and locals tend to be friendly and

welcoming.

For families, the Hautes-Pyrénées offers

excellent schools and educational

opportunities, with both public and private

institutions available. The region is also known

for its strong traditions and local festivals,

village fetes and sporting events. From the

lively Carnaval de Bigorre to Tango Argentin

in Tarbes, there is always something

happening in the Hautes-Pyrénées.

“Living in the Hautes-Pyrénées offers

an incredible quality of life, combining

natural beauty, outdoor adventure, cultural

richness, and a strong sense of community”

says Gilles.

“Whether you’re drawn to the area for its

mountains, its history, or its peaceful rural

life, this region of France has something for

everyone. The slower pace of life, combined

with easy access to nature and a supportive

local community, makes it an ideal place to

settle for those seeking a more serene and

fulfilling lifestyle. It really is a location that’s

hard to beat.”

See Giles Tilley’s selection of French

properties for sale in the Hautes-Pyrénées

Renovation Project

Barbazan-Debat €240,000

Ref: A35836 - 3-bedroom house to renovate,

with garden and garage. 10 min to Tarbes!



Let me entertain you!

Lahitte-Toupière €620,000

Ref: A29032 - Stunning 6-bedroom house

with pool and petanque court! Perfect for B&B.


Energy class: A Climate class: A

Countryside Retreat

Lannemezan €191,500

Ref: A34457 - 2-bedroom house with original

features, outbuilding ideal as a gîte, and terrace.



www.leggettfrance.com info@leggett.fr +33 (0)5 53 60 84 88

Information on the risks to which these properties are exposed is available on the Geohazards website: www.georisques.gouv.fr


Finding

your

dream

home

not physically on site. What you need is

someone you can trust, who has taken

the time to find out exactly what you’re

looking for and in place to know when the

right property comes onto the market, or

even before. And importantly you want a

single point of contact who speaks good

English. Buying a property in France is a

big deal, you want to know that when you

want information, have a question and

need answers, want someone to act on your

behalf when it’s required, that you will have

that kind of service.”

Iddyl Properties have helped clients find

their ideal property all over France from

an elegant apartment in Montpellier, a ski

chalet in the Aps, a cottage in Normandy, a

chateau in the Loire, and a pied-a-terre in

Paris with a view of the Eiffel Tower where

its notoriously difficult to buy a place. They

support you every step of the way, from

finding the prefect property to guiding you

through the paperwork.

“I’ve been through the buying process

in France myself from overseas” says

Maxence. “Yes, I speak French of course,

but even for me, when I lived in Spain

and wanted to buy a second home in

France, I quickly realised how difficult

it was. I spent so much time going

backwards and forwards, certain I had

found the one, only to discover it wasn’t

what it seemed. What I really needed was

someone who knew exactly what I was

looking for and could find out what was

on the market – and importantly find out

what was coming on the market before

everyone else found out! That experience

motivated me to set up Iddyl Property to

offer the service I would want for myself.”

To learn more, start with a simple

conversation. Visit iddyl-property.com

and book a call with them: this could be the

first step towards your French dream!

If you’d love to buy a place in France but

you’re in another country, how do you go

about it? We all know that the best way to

grab your dream property is to be on the

spot talking to the right people, but that’s not

always possible – you may not have time,

may not even be in France – and that doesn’t

matter because a property finder service takes

all the hard work out of looking for your dream

home. We asked Maxence Toulouse of Iddyl

Property to share his top tips for how find your

perfect property in France the easy way.

“A professional property finder is exactly

what it seems: they search on your behalf to

locate exactly what you’re looking for, within

your budget” says Maxence. “A good agent

will spend time getting to know exactly what

you want before starting the search. They’ll

conduct the viewings on your behalf and,

keep you regularly updated on the search

process. It will save you time and money.

“They’ll organise background checks from

technical diagnostics to ensuring that there

are no structural defects that weren’t in the

description (it happens), as well as researching

the local environment to make sure that there

are no surprises you really don’t want down

the line for instance checking building permits

in the area to make sure you’re aware or any

major planned projects.

“Your property finder will negotiate the price,

help you make the offer, and have trusted

brokers on speed dial for those clients who

want to organise finance. They’ll help you to

complete the purchase. They have access to

networks all over France with every type of

property from a studio in Paris to a palatial

seafront villa on the Côte d’Azur. And there

should only be a fee for a successful purchase.

“So often, you only hear about properties

once they’ve already sold and it’s too late.

Or you can’t get all the information if you’re

Your real estate agency in France

A partner who supports you from A to Z in your project

Property

+25 000 Agencies network 3% Agency fees Anywhere in France

Get to know each other

contact@iddyl-property.com www.iddyl.property.com


Moving to France

What you need to know

a considerable percentage of people make

mistakes right at the start that either see

their visa application rejected, or they have

problems down the line. For instance, people

who move to France on a retirement visa,

then want to run a tour, or a B&B and go

ahead on the retirement visa. It’s definitely

going to be a problem without the right

paperwork – you need to complete a “change

of status” application in that case. But if you

don’t know this, it’s easy to get it wrong.

And when it comes to applying for the right

type of visa to work in France, there are

several variations, for instance working in

France – there are 4 types of visas, some

of which require a business plan (if you are

aiming to create a company) to be submitted

with your application – in French of course.

Another big issue for applicants is the

supporting documentation required – from

proof of income to proof of healthcare

insurance. It’s not always clear what’s needed,

and there’s a huge amount of misleading

information on the internet. But get just one

document wrong – and your application will fail.

“It’s not a tick box exercise when you apply

for a visa” says Gonzalo, “it’s different for

every single person – not just for you but for

the administration people who process your

application for visas, for a residency card, to

start a business etc. Officials don’t just look at

what forms you’ve filled in and the paperwork,

they consider the bigger picture too.”

If the thought of all this makes your blood run

a little cold, don’t despair, because help is

available. And it’s the type of help that quickly

gets to the heart of what visa you require and

then makes sure you get it. Oui Immigration

have helped hundreds of people to go through

the process of moving to France. They totally

get that you want to focus on your dreams and

your new life, and they’re with you all the way

– from start to finish.

You can find out more or book a consultation

by visiting their website:

oui-immigration.com

Moving to another country involves far more

than just packing your bags and finding a

place to live – the immigration process can

be an administrative labyrinth. We asked the

experts at Immigration specialist company

Oui Immigration to share their tips…

Virginie Le Baler and Gonzalo Aguirre of

Oui Immigration have both been through

the immigration process personally, so they

understand better than most how complex

and disorientating it can be, especially when

another language is involved.

“Organising an immigration process is much

more than filling in administrative forms”

says Virginie. “For us it means entering into

someone’s personal life, sharing their doubts

and joys and accompanying them into their

new life. We use our expertise of immigration

challenges, its technical hurdles and its

challenges, but above all, we become your ally

and your cheerleader. We can’t help getting

involved, because your case means almost as

much to us as it does to you – we get that it’s

not just a process, at the heart of it all is you –

and your new life.”

17 different types of visas – whether you want

to retire to France, work in France, study, set

up a business, short-stay, long-stay move as

an investor, or as a family, or even want to get

married in France. Different forms. Different

paperwork. Frequent changes in immigration

law. Online systems that aren’t easy to use.

Deadlines to meet.

“If that’s not enough” says Gonzalo,

“how different departments handle each

application is constantly evolving, so just when

you think you’ve grasped what’s required, the

requirements can change.”

Oui Immigration emphasise that it’s

absolutely critical that you apply for the

correct visa. It sounds obvious they say, yet


The Languedoc

Roussillon

Hills, Mountains & Coastline

Beziers © Gillian Thornton

Dreaming of a new life in sunny southern

France? The Languedoc Roussillon region

is home to stunning landscapes, charming

medieval towns, and a rich cultural heritage.

Known as France’s largest vineyard, Languedoc

is a haven for those seeking a beautiful, diverse

region with plenty to explore.

Why Languedoc is a great

place to live

Languedoc, the sunniest region in France,

is framed by two mountain ranges - the

Massif Central to the north and the Pyrénées

to the south. Between them, you’ll find

forests, meadows, and a stunning stretch of

coastline. Whether you’re seeking outdoor

adventure, busy city living, or a slower pace

of life, this area offers it all, with a perfect

blend of natural beauty, rich history, and

vibrant culture.

Towns like Toulouse, Béziers, Montpellier,

Carcassonne, Albi, and Narbonne are filled

with history and unique attractions. From

cobblestone streets and medieval fortresses

to buzzing markets and delicious restaurants,

there’s something to delight everyone. The

region is dotted with towns perched high on

cliffs, offering breathtaking vistas and a truly

dramatic landscape.

The region is popular with expats from around

Townhouse Beziers, Herault (Ref 34500)

the world including Brits, Americans, Belgians

and Dutch. With excellent transportation links,

including 5 international airports: Perpignan,

Carcassonne, Béziers, Montpellier, and Nîmes,

with others just across the border at Nice,

Toulouse, Toulon and Marseille, high speed

trains to Paris and excellent autoroutes.

Many properties are large, character-filled

stone houses with high ceilings, original oak

beams, tiled floors, and open fireplaces.

These charming homes, built with traditional

materials like canal roof tiles, offer the perfect

canvas for creating your dream French home.

Anna Sirinides, Carcassonne-based agent

with Agence Hamilton says “In this region

it’s all about the lifestyle – living well, great

138 Carcassonne | The Good Life France


Moving to France

Gorgeous stone house, Les Angles, Gard (Ref 30133) 16th century chateau, with gites, Castelnaudary near Carcassonne (Ref 11400)

gastronomy, wine, sunshine, and plenty to do.

And there’s just so much choice when it comes

to finding your dream home.”

Selection Habitat Béziers agent Claudia

Götting adds: “I feel privileged to introduce

buyers from around the world to the beauty of

this region. Helping them find their ideal home

and immerse themselves in a new life here is

the best part of my job.”

year-round, plus a superb market in the

picturesque lower town which is skirted by the

Canal du Midi. While touristy – which pushes

prices up - there are still affordable properties

in the surrounding areas. The average 3 or

4-bed house with a pool, or a character

apartment will set you back between

285,000€ to 325,000€. A Maison de Maître

and large character properties start at about

495,000€.

Financial Planning for Expats

Planning a U.S. Return

Financial planning services

for US expats in France,

wherever you are on your

international journey…

sanderlingexpat.com

The best areas for value

for money according to

Anna and Claudia:

Montpellier: Montpellier, the largest and

most cosmopolitan city in the region is a

vibrant university city with a young population,

Montpellier has a good mix of historic charm,

culture and modern amenities. Prices are

high in inner Montpellier, but there are still

value options available, especially in outlying

neighbourhoods such as Les Cévennes.

Nîmes: Known for its Roman history and

architecture, Nîmes offers more affordable

housing compared to nearby cities such as

Aix-en-Provence.

Béziers: With its rich history and beautiful

scenery, the city has a lovely canal,

is just 15km from the beaches of the

Mediterranean, and is surrounded by breathtaking

countryside and vineyards. Béziers is

becoming more and more popular and that’s

caused prices to climb. A realistic average

price for a 3-bed house in good condition

with a garage or outdoor space is between

250,000€ and 300,000. Larger 4-bed

houses start at around 420,000€.

Agde: Known for its beaches and historical

sites, Agde can offer great deals, especially if

you look at properties slightly away from the

coast in the neighbourhoods of La Pinède,

L’avant-porte and L’Île de Pêcheurs.

Carcassonne: This UNESCO World Heritage

site is famous for its stunning medieval

fortress. There are plenty of cultural events,

cafés, restaurants and sporting activities

Sète: A picturesque port town with a unique

atmosphere, property prices in Sète have

increased but the town still offers good value

for money compared to other coastal towns in

the south of France for example a home here


Montpellier

will cost around 25% less than properties in

the Périer neighbourhood in Marseille.

Lodève: A smaller town with a rich history,

Lodève is less known but offers beautiful

properties at much lower prices than in the

bigger cities. Here a 3-bed house with a pool

can cost from as little as €350,000.

For those who love the beach, the seaside

town of Leucate offers a rustic coastline and

a packed summer programme when dozens

of trendy beach bars pop up along the shore.

Great for second home owners and with good

rental potential, property prices vary with homes

nearer the beach costing more, but move a

little inland and you’ll find homes cost far less.

Narbonne © Gillian Thornton

Magnificent Maison de maître, Bélarga (Ref 34230)

and affordability; Saint-Chinian, for a peaceful

rural life; Collioure, a picture-perfect village

by the Mediterranean; and Lamalou-les-Bains,

a small spa town in the Hérault.

With such a huge choice of locations in this

region – there really is a dream home to suit

everyone.

Agence Hamilton has been helping clients

find their dream homes in Languedoc since

1992, specialising in chateaux and character

houses of character. With 40 offices across

France, their approach is personal and not

just helping you to find your dream home,

they help you settle into your new life in

France, offering a full relocation service –

with advice on visas/healthcare/admin, and

offering services from mortgage brokerage,

currency transfers, and even renovation.

See all properties at:

agence-hamilton.com;

selectionhabitat.com;

International information site:

livinginfrance.agence-hamilton.com

Other popular places include Uzès, known

for its Provençal charm, history, and stunning

countryside; Narbonne, for a quieter lifestyle

Agence Hamilton have a monthly webinar

with an expert panel to help you with

all your questions about how to buy a

property and make a successful move to

France, find details

livinginfrance.agence-hamilton.com


© Rina Nurra

Your one stop shop for the finest quality

food from Britain and Ireland.

Makes 4 × 1-cup (250-ml) jars

Active time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

Storage: Up to 2 weeks in

the refrigerator

WE OFFER THE LARGEST REFRIGERATED HOME DELIVERY

NETWORK ACROSS MAINLAND EUROPE.

Quality Fresh Beef, Pork and Lamb, Cheeses, Clotted Cream,

Fresh Cream, Pies, Sausages, Bacon, Pudding, Tea & Coffee, Sauces,

Crisps & Chocolate, plus Vegetarian and Vegan products

Free home delivery France, Belgium & Luxembourg

baconbythebox.com

Salted

Butter

Caramel

Spread

Pâte à Tartiner

Caramel Beurre Salé

Equipment

4 × 1-cup (250-ml) jars

Candy thermometer

Stick blender

INGREDIENTS

Scant ¹⁄3 cup (3.5 oz./100 g) glucose syrup or

light corn syrup

2 ½ cups (1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) sugar

1 cup (250 ml) whipping cream, 35 %

butterfat

3 ½ sticks (14 oz./400 g) butter, softened

¼ teaspoon (1 g) fleur de sel

(or other sea salt flakes)

METHOD

Warm the glucose syrup, gradually adding the

sugar. When the sugar has dissolved, bring to

a boil and cook until you have a dark brown

caramel.

Bring the cream to a boil in another pan.

Gradually stir it into the caramel to prevent

it cooking further, taking great care as the

mixture could spit or splash and burn your

hand.

Cool the mixture to 104°F (40°C), transfer it

to a mixing bowl and stir in the butter and fleur

de sel.

Using the stick blender, process until creamy

and smooth.

Pour into the jars and

cool completely before

closing the jars and

refrigerating.

Extracted from

French Pâtisserie:

Master Recipes and Techniques from

the Ferrandi School of Culinary Arts by

Ferrandi (Published by Flammarion, £45).

Photography © Rina Nurra 2017.


The first printed recipe for a dessert called crème brûlée, a sweet custard of egg yolks and milk

with a burnt sugar crust, is from the 1691 edition of the French cookbook Le Cuisinier Royal

et Bourgeois by François Massialot, a chef de cuisine at the Palace of Versailles. A dish fit for

royalty, it’s now a firm favourite in France.

Crème Brûlée

Serves 4

Active time: 1 hour


Freezing time: 20 minutes

Storage: Up to 3 days in the

refrigerator

EQUIPMENT

4 × 4 ¾-in. (12-cm) ramekins

Kitchen torch

INGREDIENTS

1 cup (250 ml) whipping cream, 35% butterfat

3 tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g) egg yolk (about 3 yolks)

3 tbsp (1.5 oz./40 g) sugar

Vanilla pod

3 ½ tbsp (1 oz./25 g) powdered whole milk

Brown sugar, for the caramel crust

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 225°F (100°C/Gas mark

¼). Using the first four ingredients, prepare a

custard by combining the milk with half the

sugar in a saucepan. Scrape in the vanilla

seeds, place over medium heat, and bring to a

boil. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks with the

remaining sugar in a mixing bowl until creamy

and slightly thickened. When the milk comes

to a boil, pour a little into the yolk mixture,

whisking until combined. Pour the mixture

back into the saucepan. Stir constantly with

a spatula until the temperature of the custard

reaches 180°F (83°C). Draw a line with your

finger through the custard on the spatula and

if the line stays visible the custard is ready.

When the custard is cooked, strain it through

a fine-mesh strainer into a small bowl. Stand

the bowl of custard in a larger bowl filled with

ice cubes and water and allow to cool, stirring

occasionally to prevent a skin forming on top,

before using.

Pour into the ramekins and bake for 50

minutes.

Cool and then place the creams in the freezer

for 20 minutes, so they are well chilled before

caramelizing the tops. Sprinkle a layer of

brown sugar on top of each cream.

Caramelize the sugar with a kitchen torch.

© Rina Nurra

Extracted from French

Pâtisserie: Master Recipes and

Techniques from the Ferrandi School of

Culinary Arts by Ferrandi

(Published by Flammarion, £45).

Photography © Rina Nurra 2017.

Chef’s Notes

White sugar can be used in place of brown to

caramelize the tops of the creams.

After caramelizing, chill the creams in the

refrigerator so the topping firms up and it

becomes crisp, while the cream underneath stays

cool and silky smooth.



Chicken Cordon Bleu

Serves 10

Active time: 30 minutes


Storage: 3 days

© Rina Nurra

EQUIPMENT

Mallet-style meat pounder

INGREDIENTS

Mesclun greens

1 head baby chicory

1 ¾ oz. (50 g) baby orache or spinach greens

1 ¾ oz. (50 g) baby mizuna greens

¹⁄3 oz. (10 g) red-veined sorrel leaves

Vinaigrette

Generous ½ teaspoon (3 g) fine sea salt

2 tbsp (30 ml) aged red wine vinegar

1 ½ tsp (3 g) freshly ground white pepper

Scant ½ cup (100 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Cordon bleu

5 large slices cooked ham

7 oz. (200 g) Cantal

10 boneless chicken breasts

2 cups (9 oz./250 g) all-purpose flour

2 tsp (10 g) salt

6 eggs

4 ½ cups (1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) dried white

breadcrumbs

Scant ½ cup (100 ml)

olive oil

3 tbsp (1 ¾ oz./50 g)

butter

Extracted from Meat, Poultry & Game :

Recipes and Techniques from the Ferrandi

School of Culinary Arts by FERRANDI

Paris (Flammarion, 2025).

METHOD

Preparing the mesclun greens

Cut the chicory into 1 ½-in. (4-cm) pieces and

remove the stems from the baby greens. Wash

and drain the greens and sorrel leaves and set

them aside.

Preparing the vinaigrette

Dissolve the salt in the vinegar in a bowl, then

add the white pepper. Gradually whisk in the

olive oil until emulsified.

Preparing the cordon bleu

Preheat the oven to 350°F

(180°C/Gas Mark 4).

Cut the ham slices in half lengthwise. Cut 20

slices of Cantal that are about the same size

as the half-slices of ham. Trim any excess fat

off the chicken breasts and butterfly them.

Using the meat pounder, flatten them between

two sheets of plastic wrap until they are twice

their original size. Place one slice of Cantal

over one-half of each chicken breast, followed

by a piece of ham and a second slice of

Cantal. Close each chicken breast by folding

the uncovered half over the covered half so

the edges meet.

Combine the flour and salt in a shallow dish,

whisk the eggs in a second dish, and place

the breadcrumbs in a third dish. Roll each

cordon bleu in the flour, dip in the egg, and

coat in the breadcrumbs. Dip in the egg a

second time, then in the breadcrumbs again

until well coated.

Heat the olive oil in a large oven-safe skillet

and brown the cordon bleu for 3 minutes on

each side. Add the butter, wait for it to foam,

then fry for an additional 3 minutes on each

side, basting regularly. Transfer the skillet to

the oven and finish cooking the cordon bleu

for 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

To serve

Combine the greens in a large bowl and toss

with the vinaigrette just before serving, to

avoid the leaves going soggy. Place each

cordon bleu on a serving plate with a little

salad alongside.



Last

Word

It’s been 21 years since my husband Mark and I bought a rat-infested farmhouse

in northern France. It had dirt floors, holes in the roof, and windows that rattled

in their frames. Ever since, we’ve been renovating. Not every day, not full time,

but consistently. More than 100 tons of concrete laid, 36 windows installed, and

13 external doors.

We saw the house on a day trip to France to buy wine. On a shivery and soggy

February day, a chance meeting with a real estate agent led us to visit the

three cheapest houses he had on his books. Two hours later, we were the proud

owners of a hideous hovel in the middle of nowhere. We’d entered a hall where

the walls dripped with condensation, toured a loft where we could see the sky

through missing roof tiles, and brushed horror story-like cobwebs from our hair.

But standing in a damp kitchen overlooking a neglected garden, a beam of

sunlight suddenly burst through the dark grey clouds, church bells began ringing,

and ducks in a nearby garden started quacking - sounding like joyous laughter, a

welcome. I was love struck. Completely and utterly head over heels. I knew that

fate had reached out its fingers. And I grasped them and hung on for the ride

(after I persuaded my husband to sell his car to pay the deposit on the house!).

Despite my dad’s protests that the house was a money pit, we bought it for less

than the price of a swanky designer handbag. We learned from YouTube and

books how to do whatever was necessary. We transformed the ghastly and grim

dwelling into a cosy home filled with cats and dogs.

But more importantly, we made a new life filled with adventures – wandering

cows and escaping goats, gracious and generous-natured neighbours, including

Claudette, who in her 90s has never travelled further than 20 miles, as all that

she loves, her family and friends, are here in our village; Bread Man, who delivers

the croissants, baguettes and bonhomie each week; Pierre, the quirky farmer

who wants to be a cowboy; mushroom-mad Paul, who can talk the hind legs off

a donkey; cake-loving Madame Bernadette; and Jean-Claude, who shares his

vegetable-growing prowess, helping us to live the good life.

A wise person once said, “the best journey takes you home…”

Janine Marsh is the author of My Good Life in France; My Four Seasons

in France; Toujours La France, and How to be French: Eat, dress, travel

and love la vie Française – available on Amazon, all online bookshops and

in bookstores in high streets everywhere.

Buying

in France?

Discover how to save time &

money on your currency transfers.

Excellent exchange rates

No transfer fees

Personal account manager

Multiple transfer options

Regular currency updates

Award winning service

Email: calum.h@currenciesdirect.com or register for free

and request your free Buying in France digital guide, or call

+44-207 847 9446 and quote “Good Life France”

© Currencies Direct Ltd, One Canada Square, Canary Wharf, London E14 5AA, United Kingdom. Registered in England & Wales, No.: 03041197. Currencies Direct Ltd is authorised

by the Financial Conduct Authority as an Electronic Money Institution under the Electronic Money Regulations 2011. Our FCA Firm Reference number is 900669.

Our EU services are provided by Currencies Direct Spain.

© Currencies Direct Spain, E.D.E., S.L., Avenida del Mediterráneo, 341, 04638 Mojácar, Almería, Spain. Registered in the Commercial Registry of Almería under the Spanish tax

ID number B04897930. Currencies Direct Spain, E.D.E., S.L. is authorised by the Bank of Spain as an Electronic Money Institution under Law 21/2011 of 26 July and Royal Decree

778/2012 of 4 May. Our registration number with the Bank of Spain is 6716.

Register here

UK18844EN



WE LOVE TO SHARE

JOIN US ON:

Subscribe to our weekly newsletter for a ray of sunshine from

France – just click the website link below

www.thegoodlifefrance.com

SUMMER 2025

Transform your PDFs into Flipbooks and boost your revenue!

Delete template?

Save as template ?