(40) The Cultured Traveller, December 2022-February 2023 Issue 40

➤ ISSUE 40

DECEMBER 2022 – FEBRUARY 2023

UK £10 EU €10

Budapest

HUNGARY’S STORIED CAPITAL IS

AN UNFINISHED SYMPHONY

THE REBIRTH OF BEIRUT ➤ MARRAKECH ➤ ISSEY MIYAKE

CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE ➤ LANZERAC ESTATE

MARGUERITE ➤ FINNJÄVEL SALONKI

Two stunning Maldivian islands. One unique Raffles resort.

And service like no other

DUBAI PARIS WARSAW JAKARTA SEYCHELLES SINGAPORE PHNOM PENH BALI SIEM REAP MAKKAH MALDIVES SHENZHEN MANILA HAINAN ISTANBUL UDAIPUR

COMING SOON - LONDON BOSTON MACAU JAIPUR JEDDAH DOHA

WWW.RAFFLES.COM

Fisherman's Bastion and Matthias Church

on Castle Hill, Budapest, Hungary

ISSUE 40 ➤ DECEMBER 2022 – FEBRUARY 2023

highlights

44 HUNGARY’S MAJESTIC UNFINISHED SYMPHONY

From the lofty heights of Buda Castle to the tree-lined expanse of Andrássy Avenue, the Hungarian capital exudes grandeur and

ceremony. A long and chequered history has dealt the city more than its fair share of highs and lows. But today, Joe Mortimer finds

that grassroots producers, resurgent winemakers and an aspirational population are breathing new life into BUDAPEST.

74 THE MIDDLE EAST’S UNBREAKABLE CITY

Once the Middle Eastern playground of Hollywood stars, world leaders and the international jet set, BEIRUT’s struggles have been

complex, protracted and well publicised. Yet, as Lisa Jerejian reveals, this Mediterranean metropolitan jewel refuses to surrender

and is welcoming and giving again.

112 THE MOST HISTORIC OF CAPE WINERIES

Wine production has been indigenous to the lands around Cape Town for more than 350 years. Forty-five minutes’ drive from the

Mother City in the heart of the Cape Winelands, Nicholas Chrisostomou visits one of the rainbow nation’s most historic wineries:

LANZERAC ESTATE.

117 THE INCOMPARABLE MASTER OF PLEATS

Over the course of six decades, ISSEY MIYAKE built one of the world’s most recognised fashion brands and, in the process, defined

an era in Japan's modern design history. Succumbing to liver cancer in August 2022, The Cultured Traveller looks back at the

career of the first Japanese designer to show in Paris.

42 WIN A DECADENT THREE-NIGHT STAY IN DUBAI

Nestled between the Arabian Gulf’s turquoise waters and the city's skyscraping skyline on a 25-acre site, RAFFLES THE PALM is

a palatial resort. Spend 72-hours immersed in hospitality decadence in a one-bedroom suite including all meals for two, a couple’s

spa treatment, airport transfers and Raffles’ renowned butler service.

90

124

12

136

8 CONTRIBUTORS

CONTENTS

10 EDITOR’S LETTER

12 NEWSFLASH

Throughout the year, on almost

every day of every month, a

traditional festivity, fascinating

cultural event or vibrant festival

is happening somewhere on

Planet Earth. During the coming

months, ghastly horned demons

will rampage through the south

Austrian town of Klagenfurt on

KRAMPUSNACHT; Nassau's

main Bay Street artery will be

transformed into a sea of sight and

sound for the annual Bahamian

cultural festival of JUNKANOO;

the grand VENICE CARNIVAL

will lead revellers through the

city’s ancient backstreets and

canals to secret parties and

extravagant costume balls; the

festival of TAPATI RAPA NUI on

Easter Island will commemorate

the arrival of the island's first

Polynesian settlers; SAUTI ZA

BUSARA will showcase some of the

best emerging musical talent from across

the African continent in Zanzibar, and

Rihanna will headline SUPER BOWL 57’s

HALFTIME SHOW!

26 REST YOUR HEAD

From Byron Bay to the Serengeti, The

Cultured Traveller team checks out

a dozen new hotels around the world,

including the towering futuristic glass

crescent which is home to RAFFLES

DOHA, Qatar’s first all-suite property;

SCANDIC GRAND CENTRAL, which

occupies a massive Art Nouveau building

with huge historical value in the center

of the Finnish capital; New Haven's

landmark Marcel Breuer-designed

brutalist building turned HOTEL

MARCEL, which is America’s first

completely fossil fuel-free hotel; a 20th

century Italian castello which recently

opened as boutique CASTLE ELVIRA

after three years of restoration work, and

new super-luxe resort CALI MYKONOS,

which draws inspiration from traditional

Cycladic architecture and Greek

mythology’s muse, Calliope.

66 FIVE MINUTES WITH

From Bratislava to Brazil and everywhere

108

69

40

in between, humble and much-loved

British soprano DEBORAH MYERS has

performed with everyone from Alfie Boe

to José Carreras during her decades-long

career to date.

69 SUITE ENVY

Ensconced in the Lady Sophia

Suite which was created during the

property’s most recent refurb, Nicholas

Chrisostomou enjoys attentive service and

a wealth of culinary treats at probably

the world’s most famous hotel: RAFFLES

SINGAPORE.

90 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Dazzling travellers with its unique

culture, breathtaking natural beauty

and exotic ways for centuries, Alex

Benasuli re-visits the charismatic ochre

city of MARRAKECH, where Europe,

the Middle East and Africa meet in

captivating harmony.

104 TASTE & SIP REVIEW

A modern restaurant which draws upon

more than a century of Finnish culinary

heritage, Nicholas Chrisostomou reviews

FINNJÄVEL SALONKI in Helsinki,

where the skillful marriage of past and

present is creating delectable new food

memories.

108 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER

Set within the world’s largest glass

greenhouse on the edge of Singapore

Bay, Nicholas Chrisostomou visits new

contemporary fine dining restaurant

MARGUERITE, that landed its first

Michelin star within eight months of

opening.

126 CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

At the end of a somewhat turbulent

2022, from Siberian wool slippers and

satin pyjamas to designer luggage

and indulgent travel elixirs, Jackie

Needleman hand-picks a range of divine

gifts to bring smiles to the faces of your

loved ones this Christmas.

135 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured in

issue 40 of The Cultured Traveller.

136 SUITE WITH A VIEW

Occupying a 120-year-old tower atop

Matild Palace in Budapest, the hotel’s

Crown Tower Suite offers spectacular

360-degree views of the Hungarian

capital.

26

42

74

66

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

7

JOE MORTIMER

➤ CITY FOCUS ON BUDAPEST

A UK travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury

travel and high-end hospitality, and former editor of

Destinations of the World News, Joe is an avid wine

enthusiast who spent most of lockdown studying for

his WSET Level 3 exams. When he is not operating a

corkscrew, Joe can usually be found wandering around

the Mendip Hills or planning his next great adventure.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Joe Mortimer, Lisa Jerejian, Jackie Needleman,

Howard Healy, Alex Benasuli, Rami Rizk,

Dia Mrad, Joe Sokhn

WITH THANKS TO

Lisa Jerejian, Selim Olmez, Máté Tolnai,

Natasha Comerford

CONTRIBUTORS

LISA JEREJIAN

➤ SPOTLIGHT ON BEIRUT

A spirited writer, traveller and dreamer, Lisa is a

natural-born storyteller who seeks meaning in every

journey. Her greatest joys in life include reviving old

furniture, admiring art, volunteering and getting

lost in nature. Having visited over 30 countries,

Lisa is currently based in Beirut where she’s editor

of Lebanon Traveler, a platform that champions the

small Mediterranean country.

JACKIE NEEDLEMAN

➤ CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

An established, London-based fashion

consultant, Jackie has been at the cutting-edge of

high street retail for years. Her career has taken

her to almost every continent and countless

countries, where she enjoys shopping for designer

brands and vintage pieces as much as she

relishes uncovering rare finds in flea markets.

The Cultured Traveller

is published by Coco Latté

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries:

ads@theculturedtraveller.com

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➤ ISSUE 40

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COCO LATTÉ

5 MERCHANT SQUARE

LONDON W2 1AY

UK

8

ISSUE 40 DECEMBER 2022 – FEBRUARY 2023

History meets luxury…

around a glass of wine

Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara, 39-49 1250-237 Lisboa | T: +351 211 513 850 | E: info@palacioludovice.com

WWW.PALACIOLUDOVICE.COM

From left to right: Majorelle Garden,

Marrakech; Budapest; Beirut

EDITOR’S LETTER

AS 2022 DRAWS TO A

close, what is most memorable

for me as a traveller, is that

the skies are once again

teeming with flights bound

for destinations far and wide,

the hospitality industry is

regularly premiering chic new

hotels and swanky, sprawling

resorts and, by-and-large, the

globetrotting public’s appetite

for travel, adventure and

discovery has been well and

truly re-ignited.

AT A TIME OF THE YEAR TRADITIONALLY

punctuated by tales of three wise men who

travelled from east to west, in the spirit of

discovery and going places in the new year, in

issue 40, The Cultured Traveller highlights the

stories of three intensely historic cities – one in

Europe, one in the Middle East and one in Africa.

Once the epicenter of a kingdom that stretched

from the Adriatic to Transylvania, Budapest is

one of Europe’s most fascinating cities and exudes

a unique grandeur. On his first ever visit, Joe

Mortimer finds that an aspirational population,

including dozens of winemakers, is breathing

new life into the captivating Hungarian capital

(page 44).

A destination close to my heart, Beirut’s

numerous struggles have been much publicised,

culminating in a catastrophic explosion in August

2020 which decimated large swathes of the city

and brought about yet more pain and misery for

the resilient Lebanese people. In a fascinating

article illustrated with some exceptional

photography, Beirut resident Lisa Jerejian

reveals how the “unbreakable city” is gradually

being reborn, just over two

years after the devastating

port blast (page 74).

Morocco has been dazzling

travellers for centuries, with

Marrakech particularly

bewitching visitors courtesy

of its colourful exoticism.

A charismatic city where

Europe, the Middle East and

Africa meet, now that many

of us are travelling a little

further again, Alex Benasuli

rediscovers the inimitable

ochre city and finds it still as

utterly alluring (page 90).

AS THIS ISSUE GOES TO PRESS, MORE

than 140 countries welcome visitors with no

restrictions or entry requirements relating to

Covid. And whilst navigating airports may not

be as fun as it once was (largely due to how

busy some of them are!), the memories one can

make when discovering a new destination are

incomparable amongst life’s experiences. So if you

wish to give a present this Christmas that will

payback for years to come, the gift of travel would

surely be one of the most special.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief

10 ISSUE 40 DECEMBER 2022 – FEBRUARY 2023

G

eneva’s lakeside home of haute

living.

Sitting directly on the shores of Lake

Geneva with awe-inspiring views

of majestic Mont Blanc, the post-

Haussmann-style hotel dating back to 1901 has

been transformed by world-renowned architect,

Pierre-Yves Rochon. Beyond The Woodward’s

historic façade, visitors encounter classic-meetscontemporary

interiors, providing a super

stylish city sanctuary with spectacular lake and

mountain vistas. World-class dining experiences

are driven by L’Atelier Robuchon (1-Michelin

starred restaurant) and Le Jardinier. The hotel

with its 26 luxurious suites is also home to Club

Woodward featuring a sumptuous 1,200m2

Guerlain Spa and a large indoor swimming

pool. This private residence offers the most

discerning of traveller a warm welcome that is

both glamorous and authentic.

Quai Wilson 37

1201 Geneva

reservations.twg@oetkercollection.com

oetkercollection.com

news

FASCINATING CULTURAL EVENTS

AND OUTSTANDING FESTIVALS

HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD

IN THE COMING MONTHS

WINTER SOLSTICE

KRAMPUSNACHT

DESCRIBED IN

Austrian folklore

as a horned,

anthropomorphic

half-goat half-demon which haunts the

central European mountainous region that

supposedly birthed the creature, Krampus

comes alive during an annual festival which

spreads some good old-fashioned pre-

Christmas terror! Nowhere does this devil

rampage more frighteningly than in the

town of Klagenfurt on the eastern shore

of Lake Wörthersee in south Austria. Here,

the biggest and most rowdy Krampusnacht

unfolds every year, brimming with ghastly

demons quite literally everywhere. The

highlight of Krampusnacht is essentially an

alcohol fuelled Krampuslauf race, which

winds through the pedestrian-friendly city

centre of Klagenfurt, with a thousand alpinejogging

contestants dressed as scary, horned

devils. So terrifyingly demonic are //Krampus//

costumes that a constant debate rages

throughout Austria, involving a number of

eminent psychologists and reputable schools,

which want the creature altogether banned

from society because it's so scary to children.

5 December 2022

THE NORTHERN

Hemisphere's shortest day

and the Southern

Hemisphere's longest day is

the moment that the sun is directly above the

Tropic of Capricorn in the Southern Hemisphere.

This is the southernmost latitude it reaches

during the year. After the winter solstice, the sun

begins moving north again. Coinciding with the

winter solstice, Yule is an ancient Pagan festival

that brings crowds to the prehistoric monument

of Stonehenge on Salisbury Plain in the UK for its

longstanding connections with ancient

astronomy. The site is also aligned in the

direction of the sunrises on the annual solstices.

With some dressed in Druid robes or bedecked

with Pagan garlands, thousands gather early in

the morning – some religious, some not – to a

backdrop of drumbeats, chanting and songs to

quietly watch the sunrise on the winter solstice

and begin the festival of Yule. To date, English

Heritage has been committed to providing free

access to Stonehenge for solstice celebrations.

21 December 2022

www.english-heritage.org.uk


NEWSFLASH

KWANZAA

AN ANNUAL, WEEKlong

African-American

celebration of life held

predominantly in the

States, Dr. Maulana Karenga first introduced

Kwanzaa in 1966 in response to the

commercialism of Christmas, as a ritual to

welcome the first harvests. Though often

considered an alternative to Christmas, many

people actually celebrate both, not least

because Kwanzaa is a cultural holiday with a

spiritual quality, rather than a religious

holiday. Honouring African heritage in

African-American culture, Kwanzaa is

observed from 26th December through 1st

January, culminating in a feast and gift-giving.

Each day is dedicated to one of Kwanzaa's

seven core principles, with seven candles

used to represent concepts of the holiday:

umoja (unity); kujichagulia (self-determination);

ujima (collective work and responsibility);

ujamaa (co-operative economics); nia

(purpose); kuumba (creativity) and

imani (faith).

26 December 2022 - 1 January 2023

www.officialkwanzaawebsite.org

JUNKANOO

YOU KNOW THAT IT’S

Junkanoo when Nassau's

main artery of Bay Street is

transformed into a sea of

sight and sound. Delighting and entertaining all

who experience this annual happening and the high

point of the festive season for all Bahamians,

Junkanoo traces its roots back to the late 18th

century music and dance spectacles of West

Africa and is one of the oldest surviving street

festivals in the Caribbean. Legend has it that

slaves of old decorated themselves using

whatever scrap materials were available, the

easiest to lay their hands on being paper and

feathers, while flour paste was used to paint their

faces. Nowadays, Junkanoo is a vibrant

celebration of life and freedom and the major

cultural festival of the Bahamas. But you'll need

stamina to be part of Junkanoo because it is

celebrated twice during the festive season, in the

early hours of Boxing Day followed by the main

event on New Year’s Day.

26 December 2022 + 1 January 2023

www.bahamas.com/junkanoo


13

14

NEWSFLASH

HORNBILL FESTIVAL

Indigenous to the mountainous frontier

between India and Myanmar, male

members of a Naga tribe in the Indian state of

Nāgāland line-up in readiness to perform at the

annual Hornbill Festival, which sees the coming

together of seventeen tribes to celebrate their

unique cultural heritage.

1-10 December 2022

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 15

PROTOTYPE

IT TOOK JUST FIVE YEARS

for this festival of

contemporary, multidisciplinary

opera-theatre

and music-theatre to prompt The New Yorker

magazine to say that it was “essential to the

evolution of American Opera". Indeed,

PROTOTYPE today is almost certainly the most

important presenter of innovative new operas,

experimental theatre and musical works in New

York, mounting both complete performances as

well as works-in-progress through partnerships

with local performing arts venues. Since

launching, PROTOTYPE has produced and

presented well over a hundred performances,

shared the works of numerous local, national

and international artists, exposed visionary

work to tens of thousands of people and filled

dozens of stages across New York City’s

multiple boroughs. This year’s extensive

programme includes rising star of the

international folk music scene, Silvana Estrada

summoning a new passage for her album

Marchita via a limited number of intimately

melodic performances.

5-15 January 2023

https://prototypefestival.org

RHYTHM & VINES

THE FIRST PLACE IN

the world to enjoy the

first sunrise of 2023 will

be New Zealand and

what better place to see the back of another

tumultuous year and welcome the new than

Rhythm & Vines. Held at Waiohika Estate family

vineyard close to the city of Gisborne and

celebrating its 20-year anniversary this year,

New Zealand’s vast, annual and multi

award-winning music festival is spread across

three days and multiple stages. Past

headliners have included Calvin Harris and

Mark Ronson and this year’s line-up is no less

impressive, headlined by British electronic

music duo Chase & Status on day one,

performing a DJ set, and Australian electronic

dance music producer, DJ and singer Alison

Wonderland topping the bill on New Year’s Eve.

Also appearing at Rhythm & Vines 2022 will be

Grammy-nominated Mike Di Scala and Dave

Whelan, better known as British electronic duo

CamelPhat, who together traverse various

styles of deep house and techno.

29-31 December 2022

www.rhythmandvines.co.nz

Silvana Estrada


NEWSFLASH

TIMKAT

SPREAD OVER THREE

days and the most

important festival for

Orthodox Christians in

Ethiopia, Timkat celebrates the baptism of

Jesus Christ in the River Jordan by John the

Baptist. Rich in colour and conducted with

great pomp throughout, on the eve of Timkat,

known as Ketera, sacred replicas of the Ark

of the Covenant, known as tabots, are

wrapped in luxurious cloth and placed on the

heads of priests to be carried out of the

church in procession with the clergy. The

pilgrimage halts just outside of the city at

Fasilides’ Bath, whereupon a divine liturgy is

celebrated at 2am, attended by crowds who

bring picnics to eat by the light of oil lamps. At

dawn, a priest extinguishes a candle burning

on a pole set in a nearby river using a

ceremonial cross. Many in the congregation

then leap into the river. Escorted by

horsemen, the tabots are then taken back to

the churches while the festivities continue.

19 January 2023

KEY WEST FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

“FLIP FLOPS REQUIRED”

is the motto of this annual

Floridian foodie gathering

which is widely regarded

as one of best food and wine festivals in the

States. Over the course of five flavour-filled

days, Key West attracts epicureans from

across the state who indulge in creative

cuisine and an array of wines at a range of

unique events which include waterfront

tastings, winemaker and chef collaborations

and gastronomic gatherings that showcase

Key West. This year’s 14th outing of the festival

kicks off with an exclusive tasting for just thirty

oenophiles of Malbecs from Argentina, France

and America – “Malbec vs Malbec vs Malbec”

will be hosted by Elizabeth Schweitzer, who is

one of just 269 Master Sommeliers in the world

today. Also standout will be the “Eva Perón

Wine Lunch” held at gorgeous mid-19th century

Audubon House, which was once the home of

famed harbour pilot and master wrecker,

Captain John H. Geiger.

25-29 January 2023

https://keywestfoodandwinefestival.com

Audubon House

QUÉBEC WINTER CARNIVAL

WHILE MOST PEOPLE

spend the winter months

doing their best to avoid ice

and snow, the inhabitants of

the picturesque French-speaking province of

Québec City do the very opposite and positively

revel in the frigid surroundings, celebrating the

joie de vivre of carnival season in freezing,

sub-zero fashion. Québec City held its first large

carnival in 1894, but the annual event was

interrupted by two wars and an economic crisis

before the first official edition of the Québec

Winter Carnival took place in 1955. The largest

winter shindig in the world has been an annual

event ever since and comprises parades, an

outdoor amusement park, giant ice slides and

snow sculpture competitions, not to mention a fair

amount of eating, drinking and general merry

making, plus traditional dogsled and canoe races.

Not to be missed is the Ice Palace, constructed

with compacted snow bricks and lit at night with

thousands of coloured lights.

3-12 February 2023

https://carnaval.qc.ca/en


17

MEVLÂNA

FESTIVAL

Attracting visitors from all

corners of the world, few people

haven’t heard of Turkey’s mesmerising

whirling dervishes or mevlevi. Accompanied

by orchestral music and dressed in their

voluminous white robes, their ecstatic, trancelike

spinning and chanting make for a truly

spellbinding spectacle.

7-17 December 2022


NEWSFLASH


19

VENICE CARNIVAL

THE WORLD’S OLDEST AND

grandest carnival of all has led

revellers through the ancient

backstreets and canals of this

wonderfully beautiful and vibrant Italian city for

generations, revealing hidden parties, exclusive costume

balls and multitudinous secret rendezvous. At its centre,

in the city’s beating heart of Piazza San Marco, people

dressed in magnificent 18th century costumes and

beautifully ornate masks for Carnevale di Venezia

parade around the square and stop in front of the

colonnaded porticos and the domed basilica to pose

and be photographed. By day, it’s fun to just wander the

streets of Venice and take in the sheer glamorous and

decadent atmosphere of it all. By night, steer clear of

San Marco's busy streets and head to the areas of

Cannaregio and Dorsoduro. Not to be missed is the

carnival's spectacular official ball, held in the splendid

Renaissance rooms of the majestic Ca' Vendramin

Calergi Palace overlooking Venice’s Grand Canal.

4-21 February 2023

www.carnevale.venezia.it/en

TAIWAN LANTERN

FESTIVAL

MARKING THE ARRIVAL OF

spring after new year, held during

the “Yuan Xiao” period and dating

back decades, the annual lantern

festival is one of the most important and romantic

dates on the Taiwanese calendar. This year, the festival

is returning to Taipei for the first time in 23 years; will

be one of the first major events held in Taiwanese

capital after the pandemic and is expected to be the

biggest in the event's more than 30-year history with

four exhibition areas, one central installation and six

other major installations as part of a 300-lantern

collection covering 168 hectares. Located at National

Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, the festival's central

exhibition area will feature the main lantern, three

other major lanterns and a number of themed displays,

with innovative content combined with traditional

lantern art and cross-discipline lighting technology

expected to attract works by both local and

international artists. While thousands of lanterns take

to the skies, locals traditionally eat rice dumplings with

sweet and savoury fillings known as tangyuan.

5 February 2023


NEWSFLASH

TAPATI RAPA

NUI

LYING 3,500

kilometres off the

coast of Chile and

renowned worldwide

for its archaeological sites – including

887 monumental carved human moai

figures with oversized heads – somewhat

remote volcanic Easter Island is a

Chilean territory in Polynesia. For two

weeks every February, the festival of

Tapati Rapa Nui is held to commemorate

the arrival of the island's first Polynesian

settlers and their supreme chief, Hotu

Matu’a who together populated the then

uninhabited island. Celebrated during the

austral summer, which coincides with the

high season of the southern hemisphere,

Tapati promotes Rapa Nui ancestral

customs through song, dance, arts,

traditional dress and ancient traditions.

An exotic and uniquely Polynesian

festival like no other, visitors are

encouraged to slide down steep slopes

on banana trunks and participate in

dance competitions, and the culmination

of the festival is when two families

boogie it out on the dance floor to crown

the Queen of Tapati.

6-13 February 2023

https://imaginarapanui.com

SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL

THE FIRST SAPPORO

Snow Festival was held in

1950 and consisted of just

six snow statues built in

Odori Park by local high school students. Today

the festival is one of Japan's most popular

winter events and has snowballed into a

sprawling white wonderland, attracting people

from around the world to the capital of the

mountainous northern Japanese island of

Hokkaido, a popular ski spot also known for its

beer. Known as Yuki Matsuri locally, the snow

festival centers on Odori Park in downtown

Sapporo, where giant sculptures of snow and

ice stand along a trail of more than a kilometre

which is illuminated at night. There are two other

sites: Tsudome, a community dome with large

snow slides and a tobogganing zone, where the

festival starts a few days earlier on 31st

January; and Susukino Ice World, where visitors

can touch and ride some of the sculptures.

5-13 February 2023

www.snowfes.com/english


21

RIO DE JANEIRO

CARNIVAL

Considered to be the world’s

biggest and most glittering annual

carnival, attracting hundreds of thousands

of people onto the streets of the famous

Brazilian city, the Sambadrome Marquês

de Sapucaí hosts the marathon parade of

Rio’s samba schools and lasts well into the

following morning.

17-25 February 2023


NEWSFLASH


23

SUPER BOWL 57

SAUTI ZA BUSARA

LITERALLY MEANING

‘sounds of wisdom’ in

Swahili but so much more

than a music festival,

Sauti za Busara showcases some of the best

emerging musical talent from across the African

continent and takes place in the old Stone Town

part of Zanzibar City every February. Organised

by a non-profit NGO, not only does Sauti za

Busara send traditional African sounds around

Stone Town’s historic Old Fort for three days and

nights, providing an opportunity for local and

international artists to perform side-by-side, but

the festival also fuels the growth and

professionalisation of the region’s creative

sector and promotes Zanzibar as a destination

for cultural tourism. Namechecked by the BBC

as 'one of Africa's best and most respected

music events’, film screenings and comedy

shows fill the gaps between the many musical

performances and daily networking sessions

offer opportunities for artists, managers,

promoters, media and other professionals to

meet, connect and exchange.

10-12 February 2023

www.busaramusic.org

THE MOST IMPORTANT

day of the professional

American football

season, when millions of

fans who can’t make it to the stadium are

glued to the couch for the duration of what is

often the most watched US television program

of the year, Super Bowl LVII will be the 57th

Super Bowl and the 53rd modern-era National

Football League championship game. It will be

played at the State Farm Stadium in Glendale,

Arizona and decide the league champions for

the 2022 NFL season. Organised by the NFL,

Pepsi and Roc Nation (a production company

owned by Jay-Z) Super Bowl’s halftime show

has always attracted major talent. Janet

Jackson had her infamous wardrobe

malfunction in 2004. Previous headliners have

included Michael Jackson, Prince, Madonna,

Lady Gaga and Beyoncé. This year, Super

Bowl’s halftime show will serve as a massive

showcase for Rihanna’s re-entry into music, in

her first live performance in over five years.

12 February 2023

www.fl.com/super-bowl

Rihanna

BERLINALE

CELEBRATED ANNUALLY

since 1978, having been

founded in West Berlin in

1951, the 73rd outing of

one of Europe’s most respected film festivals

will be joined by the European Film Market

(16-22 February), the Berlinale Co-Production

Market (18-22 February), Berlinale Talents

(18-23 February) and the World Cinema Fund

taking place on the same site as the Berlinale.

Like many global cultural institutions, via its

directors Mariette Rissenbeek and Carlo

Chatrian, the 2023 Berlinale stands in

solidarity with Ukraine and the courageous

protests and liberation struggles in Iran, and

remembers victims of war, destruction and

oppression all over the world. New for 2023,

thanks to US industry publication Deadline

and to highlight the artistic value of a form

that has deeply influenced the way stories can

be told, the festival will present a new

Berlinale Series award for the best series

production.

16-26 February 2023

www.berlinale.de/en


NEWSFLASH

ADELAIDE

FRINGE

FOUNDED MORE

than six decades

ago and held in the

South Australian

beachside capital of Adelaide between

mid-February and mid-March every

year, the Adelaide Fringe is the

second-largest annual arts festival on

the planet and features more than

7,000 artists from Australia and around

the world. Even during the midst of the

pandemic in 2021, more than 600,000

tickets were purchased for the

Adelaide Fringe. Being an open access

festival, anyone brave enough to step

on stage is literally welcome to

perform. This means that originality

and diversity are at the heart of the

Adelaide Fringe, with audiences

ranging from children to grandparents

and performers coming from all walks

of life. Indeed, the eclectic and vibrant

range of events that fill the festival’s 31

days and nights include cabaret,

theatre, comedy, circus, music, visual

arts and workshops, offering

something for everyone, complete with

markets and a spectacular nightly

animated 'Parade of Light’.

17 February - 19 March 2023

https://delaidefringe.com.au

SAIDAI-JI EYO

HELD ANNUALLY IN

the capital city of

Okayama Prefecture in

the Chūgoku region of

Japan, Okayama’s Saidai-ji Eyo gets more

international attention than most, for it is

essentially thousands of nearly naked men

scrambling to find lucky objects. Commonly

known as 'Hadaka Matsuri’ ('Naked Festival’),

in a ritual that started more than 500 years

ago, the loincloth-clad men enter the temple

in the evening to purify their bodies. Having

stood in the cold until 10pm, the lights are

turned off and a priest throws a pair of

wooden shingi (sticks) into the crowd. For the

next few hours, the men jostle to be the first

to carry one of the sticks out of the temple,

be blessed with luck for a year and win a

cash prize. While the shingi are the main

object of desire, dozens of other lucky

objects are also tossed into the crowd for

good measure. The result is a mass,

drawn-out scramble of male flesh which has

been known to turn nasty!

18 February 2023

https://ohmatsuri.com


25

rest your

➤ DOHA ➤ PUIGPUÑYENT ➤ HELSINKI ➤ BYRON BAY

➤ FARI ISLANDS ➤ KYŌTO ➤ AMMAN ➤ TREPUZZI

➤ NEW HAVEN ➤ MADRID ➤ MYKONOS ➤ SERENGETI

RAFFLES DOHA

IT’S HARD NOT TO BE IMPRESSED BY THE FUTURISTIC GLASS

crescent which is home to new Raffles Doha hotel, Qatar’s

first all-suite property. Located about 20 kilometres from Doha's city

centre in Lusail, just north of West Bay Lagoon, the swooping exterior

of the shimmering building is intended as an architectural translation

of the crossed scimitar swords of Qatar’s national seal. Unsurprisingly

the building has already become something of a national landmark, its

arched towers hosting a 361-room Fairmont hotel as well as the 132-suite

Raffles property. 49 Raffles branded apartments will also become home

to permanent residents.

Inside, a soaring kaleidoscopic atrium, a collection of specially

commissioned artworks, state-of-the-art entertainment and leisure facilities

and hidden gardens set Raffles Doha apart from the plethora of other luxury

properties which have opened during the run-up to the 2022 World Cup.

head

FROM

BYRON BAY TO THE

SERENGETI, THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER TEAM CHECKS

OUT A DOZEN NEW STANDOUT

HOTELS AND RESORTS

AROUND THE WORLD

DOHA QATAR

An ultra-luxury property which has been widely described as six-star,

Raffles Doha’s suites range in size from an entry-level Urban Suite to a

vast duplex Royal Suite that boasts a private pool, wine cellar, hammam

and yoga studio.

Raffles Doha is also the brand’s first property to invite its guests

to choose which scents are diffused within their suites, and bathroom

amenities are courtesy of Frederic Malle, the nose behind niche fragrance

house Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle.

Whilst there are a multitude of dining options in the building, Alba by

Enrico Crippa at Raffles Doha is the first international opening of a Crippa

restaurant outside of Italy. Crippa’s Piazza Duomo restaurant in Alba

currently holds three Michelin Stars and is regularly name-checked as one

of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

www.rafflesdoha.com


PUIGPUÑYENT SPAIN

SON NET

ON THE SOUL STIRRING BALEARIC ISLAND OF MALLORCA,

life is laid-back and the pleasures are simple. Pristine coves

sparkle with crystal waters. Historic towns and medieval villages stand

side-by-side with glam, seaside resorts and design-savvy boutique hotels.

Culture and nature abound. A variety of accommodation options cater to

every class of traveller. A charismatic capital is presided over by a glorious

Gothic cathedral. And visitors don’t have to dig too deep to discover that

Mallorca boasts much more than beautiful weather and gorgeous beaches.

Twenty minutes by car west of central Palma and a short walk from the

mountain village of Puigpuñyent where there are a few shops, cafés and

a weekly market, Son Net is an understated, art-filled Majorcan manor

house set in the foothills of the Tramuntana Mountains on a private estate

dating back to 1672. Now under the same management as the team behind

award-winning Finca Cortesin – an enchanting Southern Spanish bolt

hole in Andalusia – Son Net is gradually being lovingly and meticulously

restored and will re-open in the spring of 2023 with 31 suites juxtaposing

elegant, palatial architecture with tastefully transformed interiors boasting

breathtaking views over citrus orchards and lush Mediterranean gardens.

The interior transformation of this historic hideaway is preserving many

of the building’s original features, including stone floors and archways,

carved wooden ceilings, antique fireplaces, an original 17th century interior

courtyard and a private family chapel.

Outside, sprawling grounds which include vegetable and herb gardens,

a small farm and a private vineyard will feature multiple pools flanked by

private shaded cabanas for guests to relax in nature and privacy. And for

those who wish to explore more of the island, the spectacular nature reserve

of Galatzo, where wild eagles, vultures and hawks live alongside brown

bears, ostriches, emus, deer and donkeys is just four or five miles from Son

Net and ideal for hiking.

www.sonnet.es


SCANDIC GRAND CENTRAL

FINLAND HAS REPEATEDLY BEEN NAMED THE WORLD’S

happiest nation for a number of reasons, not least that

Finns are surrounded by good design. From Marimekko fabrics and Iittala

glassware to Aalto furniture and architecture, Finnish design is world

renowned. On the ground, nowhere in Finland are the nation’s design

talents more evident than its capital city, where good design is literally

everywhere. From the striking Amos Rex museum, designed by three

Finnish architectural students, to the Helsinki Central Library, commonly

referred to as OODI, contemporary Finnish architecture is evident at every

turn. Occupying a hugely significant site in central Helsinki and one of

city’s largest ever design projects, OODI demonstrates successful service

design combined with contemporary Finnish architecture. A stone’s throw

from OODI, one of the city’s most historic buildings was recently converted

into a new landmark hotel.

The result is a relaxed, deluxe hotel which has retained the character of

the original building, is brimming with architectural details and offers a

Centrally located at Helsinki Railway Station, providing easy access to

range of almost 500 rooms and suites to suit every budget, complete

every part of the city, when Scandic Grand Central opened last year it was with a vibrant restaurant, a busy bar and an excellent gym. Plus you can

the culmination of a years-long reimagination of a massive art nouveau

literally walk everywhere from Scandic Grand Central.

building with huge historical value.

For lots of space at a bargain price for central Helsinki, reserve

Designed by celebrated Finnish-American architect Eliel Saarinen,

a corner suite in the main building. Accessed via an incredibly wide

who was known for his work with art nouveau buildings in the early

corridor unadulterated from the 1909 floorplan, The Cultured Traveller’s

20th century, his Finnish State Railways VR headquarters building was

corner suite offered plenty of space to spread out complete with

completed in 1909. An important part of the cityscape, culturally and

armchairs, a large sofa and even its own sauna. And should you be catching

historically significant and a protected building, it served as the railway

a train to explore another part of beautiful Finland, the platform you’ll be

administration headquarters for almost a century. Hence converting it into departing from will be five minutes’ walk from Scandic Grand Central.

a hotel was a demanding, painstaking and time-consuming process.

www.scandichotels.com/hotels/finland

HELSINKI FINLAND

29

BYRON BAY AUSTRALIA

THE SUNSEEKER

LESS THAN AN HOUR’S DRIVE FROM GOLD COAST AIRPORT

on the far north coast of New South Wales in southeastern

Australia, the sun-kissed town of Byron Bay is known as much for its

bountiful beaches, surfing and scuba diving as it is for its community

spirit, innovative food scene, rainforest hinterland and Cape Byron State

Conservation Park. Home to Australia’s most easterly point and iconic

Cape Byron lighthouse, Byron Bay is something of a coastal paradise

offering something for everyone in a relaxed atmosphere. And from

June through November, humpback whales can be spotted from various

viewpoints in the cape.

Reminiscent of a bygone era when Byron Bay was just a groovy surf town,

The Sunseeker is a revitalised classic ’80s brick motel, somewhat hidden on

Bungalow Drive ten minutes’ drive from the hustle and bustle.

Taking its design cues from fantastical Flamingo Estate in LA and

transformed by a bevy of talented local makers, artists and designers,

Sunseeker is a design-driven, modern retro no-frills bolt hole that conjures

up nostalgia at every turn. Created by first-time hoteliers Dave and Jess Frid walk-in showers and a patio or balcony overlooking the pool or gardens.

and their friends, everything has been lovingly picked, carefully restored or The six stand-alone timber-clad bungalows, complete with a full kitchen,

custom built to suit and throughout the property, artworks, furniture, vintage outdoor tub and barbecue, are perfect for a family get together.

pieces and objets d’art hail from every notable creative in the vicinity.

Food and beverage wise guests can either order food hampers or

Frequented by globetrotters in-the-know, sun worshipping couples, roadtripping

families taking advantage of the good value spacious rooms and

poolside tropical-tiki bar, which serves a range of small-batch beers and

barbecue meal kits from nearby Bay Grocer, or pull up a stool at the

jet-setters living out their surf-shack fantasies, guests are accommodated organic wines and has been styled with 80s wicker and zebra print in

in a dozen motel-style rooms which range from entry level standards to

keeping with Sunseeker’s fresh and retro vibe.

two-bedroom family suites. All are very generously proportioned and feature www.thesunseeker.com.au

IMAGES: JAMES TOLIC

30

FARI ISLANDS MALDIVES

PATINA MALDIVES

JUST A 50-MINUTE SPEEDBOAT RIDE FROM VELANA

International Airport, the Fari Islands is a man-made

archipelago in the Maldives’ North Malé Atoll built by Singaporean real

estate developer Pontiac. Purpose designed to host three luxury resorts

and a social hub but delayed by the Covid pandemic (like so much hospitality

construction was), the opening of Fari Islands in mid 2021 marked the

unveiling of a second development of artificial islands in the Maldives. Yet

the Fari Islands differ from fellow man-made Crossroads in that guests from

each of Fari’s three resorts are able to criss-cross between them by boat to

enjoy their numerous restaurants and peruse the art installations and shops

on Fari Marina.

Occupying one of Fari's islands, Patina Maldives opened in May 2021

entering the market as a new sophisticated lifestyle brand. Neighbouring

Patina, The Ritz-Carlton Maldives, Fari Islands opened in 2021 and Capella

Maldives, Fari Islands is slated to open in 2025.

Featuring 90 contemporary villas that were constructed with renewable

materials, all of which are fitted with solar panels on their roofs, Patina is

an impressively sustainable low-lying resort designed with a great respect

for nature, ensuring that its guests enjoy unbroken horizons and incredible

vistas. Adding to Patina’s eco credentials, all water is preserved, filtered and

recycled, there is no single-use plastic on the island and a zero-waste policy

operates in its kitchens.

Guests choose between sunset, sunrise, beach or over-water villas and

twenty studios. All enjoy their own open-air decks and private swimming

pools, oversized outdoor bathtubs and hammocks in which to curl up. The

modern, earthy décor is neutral in colour throughout. Oversized beds are

clad in Frette linen. Huge prints by Brazilian photograph photographer

Cássio Vasconcellos adorn the walls. And when guests tire of swimming

and relaxing, a comprehensive water sports centre features the latest

equipment, with non-motorised activities offered complimentary for guests,

and a holistic spa offers a variety of treatment suites including a couple’s

hammam, a room dedicated to Watsu and a floatation zone to soothe mind

and body in tandem.

https://patinahotels.com


31

KYŌTO JAPAN

MARUFUKURO

ONE OF NATION'S LARGEST CITIES AND ONCE ITS CAPITAL,

Buddhist temples, ornate gardens, Imperial palaces, Shinto

shrines and traditional wooden houses abound in Kyōto making it Japan's

cultural hub. Many of Japan’s unique traditions also originate in the ancient

capital and can be experienced in Kyōto’ s historic districts. Yet whilst

countless globetrotters know and love Kyōto for its temples and gardens,

fewer travellers may know that the city was also the birthplace of Nintendo.

Close to Kyōto's Kamo and Takase rivers and just a five-minute drive

from the city’s main railway station and transportation hub, in April 2022

Marufukuro hotel opened inside Nintendo's former headquarters, located in

the same quiet Kagiyacho neighbourhood where the gaming company was

founded by Fusajiro Yamauchi in 1889.

Spanning three structures including the Yamauchi family’s residence, all

dating back to 1933 when the company was known as Yamauchi Nintendo

and manufactured hanafuda (Japanese playing cards) and Western-style

playing cards called karuta, Marufukuro was designed by renowned selftaught

Japanese architect Tadao Ando to retain many of the building's

original architectural details and fittings.

Outwardly the building's exterior remains largely unchanged, retaining

elements such as old Yamauchi Nintendo entrance plaques and window

grilles patterned with details from old playing cards. The new signage plays

homage to Nintendo’s humble beginnings, incorporating the words karuta

and toranpu. And the hotel’s name, Marufukuro, is an ode to the distribution

company which continued the card-making business and eventually evolved

into Nintendo.

Inside, eleven guestrooms and seven suites range from ornate art deco to

minimalist and are spread across four buildings which include a new annex

designed Ando. For the annex, Ando adopted a more modern approach, with

floor-to-ceiling windows and elements in raw concrete – the material he is

most famous for using.

The hotel is also home to modern Japanese restaurant Carta, presided

over by prominent chef Ai Hosokawa, and offers a variety of Japanese and

Western-style dishes using fresh, seasonal ingredients.

For Nintendo fans, a library curated by the Yamauchi family is filled with a

range of items which allow visitors to experience the history and origins of

the Nintendo brand.

https://marufukuro.com/en


AMMAN JORDAN

THE RITZ-CARLTON, AMMAN

THE METROPOLITAN GATEWAY TO THE DEAD SEA, PETRA

and Wadi Rum, Amman is much more than the capital of Jordan,

with plenty to persuade travellers to stay a while and enjoy its modern Middle

Eastern vibe. A bustling city boasting numerous ancient ruins of its own,

including the remains of the Roman Temple of Hercules and a spectacular

amphitheatre that dates back to the 2nd century, there are art galleries and

museums, cafés, bars and restaurants and leafy residential districts are

home to a variety of hidden cultural gems.

Introducing a new level of hospitality luxury to the vibrant Jordanian capital

together with a wealth of carefully curated experiences for its guests,

the soaring new Ritz-Carlton hotel opened in Amman in May 2022 with

an inventory of 226 refined guest rooms and 34 super-luxe suites, plus a

massive ballroom and an array of leisure facilities and food and beverage

venues.

Rising elegantly above the West Amman skyline and centrally situated on

the prestigious Fifth Circle, the hotel’s design is inspired by the culture and

history of Jordan. Designed by London’s Wimberly Interiors, the hotel’s bold

interior architecture, tailored lighting, art deco touches and contemporary

artistic elements draw inspiration from the Kingdom’s landscapes, from

natural rifts of the sea and the earth’s saturated colours to the deep

crevices of its caves and mountains. Petra is reflected in a series of

vignettes while Roman and Nabatean architectural landmarks in Jordan are

reinterpreted throughout the hotel.

Leisure facilities include indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a sumptuous

spa and a start-of-the-art fitness centre. And for dinner with a view, the

hotel’s signature 20th floor restaurant, Roberto’s, offers authentic Italian fare

and panoramic views of Amman's skyline.

www.ritzcarlton.com


CASTLE ELVIRA

BOASTING EXTRAVAGANT CHURCHES FASHIONED BY

Entirely a passion project for married British LGBTQ+ couple Steve Riseley

Europe's finest architects, ancient towns heavy with history,

and Harvey B-Brown, who bought the site in 2018 and moved lock, stock and

seas of olive groves, centuries-old farmland and hundreds of kilometres

barrel from London to make Italy their permanent base, the castle's original

of Mediterranean coastline, Puglia today is one of Italy's most famous

architectural details were lovingly restored while contemporary furnishings

and regions and has become increasingly popular with travellers as an

and modern technology were added to create a design-led boutique hotel

alternative to Campania and Tuscany. A vibrant port city on the Adriatic

comprising four en-suite guest bedrooms with two dedicated private salons,

northwest of Brindisi, the Puglian capital of Bari is a cultural wonderland

two dining rooms (formal and informal), a bar/piano room, two lounges, a

of art and history with a gorgeous old town. Meanwhile Lecce is known

cinema and a business suite. A neighbouring groundskeeper’s cottage

as the 'Florence of the South' for its baroque architecture and dazzling

offers two additional guest bedrooms.

architectural surprises around every corner.

Facilities include a swimming pool, a 12-person jacuzzi and an on-site

café serving breakfast, aperitivi and authentic cucina povera salentina for

Just outside of Lecce on St. Elia Ridge in Trepuzzi and set within 15

lunch and dinner, made with locally sourced seasonal produce alongside

hectares of stunning parkland and Italian gardens, having literally been

ingredients grown on the property’s own land.

abandoned and left in ruins for almost 100 years, a 20th century castello

Also owned and being carefully renovated under the watchful eye of

recently opened as boutique hotel Castle Elvira after three years of

Riseley and B-Brown, Castle Elvira’s sister residence, Tower Elvira will soon

careful restorations.

open providing additional guest rooms.

www.castleelvira.com

TREPUZZI ITALY

35

NEW HAVEN UNITED STATES

HOTEL MARCEL

ONE OF THE NATION'S OLDEST CITIES AND HOME OF YALE

university which was founded more than three centuries

ago, New Haven is a modern, vibrant coastal city on the northern shore

of Long Island Sound in Connecticut, a couple of hours and easily

accessible from New York. Yet whilst New Haven is an internationally

renowned centre for education, the energetic city is also a hub for art,

science and history museums, and its energetic and inclusive vibe,

thriving culinary scene and passionate connection to its past make it

worthy of a day trip if you find yourself exploring Connecticut's stunning

sliver of coastline.

Originally built in in 1969 as the headquarters and research labs for the

Armstrong Rubber Company, New Haven's landmark Marcel Breuerdesigned

brutalist building has become America’s first completely fossil

fuel-free hotel and uses solar power to generate its own electricity

for lighting, heating, cooling and hot water. Part of Hilton’s Tapestry

Collection, Hotel Marcel is believed to be the first net-zero hotel in the

United States, which is quite a feat for a structure that sat abandoned

for more than two decades.

The new eco-friendly 165-room property is the result of the innovative vision

of lead architect, developer and owner Bruce Redman Becker. Listed on

the State and National Register of Historic Places, Becker purchased the

iconic building, repurposed and modernised it with sustainability as the key

focus throughout, creating a cutting-edge hotel which still nods to its history.

Features of the building's transformation include a power-over-ethernet

lighting system that reduces lighting energy use by more than 30% and

repurposed building materials utilised throughout, including light fixtures

and carefully restored wood-panelled walls. In addition, extensive upgrades

to enhance interior temperature control and air quality have resulted in the

building using significantly less energy per square metre than most hotels.

Breuer’s iconic Cesca chairs have been upholstered with fabric by Anni

Albers, a renowned Bauhaus textile artist, and every guest room features

custom furnishings designed by Dutch East Design. But the overriding sense

of Bauhaus modernism really comes alive in the hotel’s guest suites on the

eighth floor: once the Armstrong executive offices and conference rooms,

those that face east boast sweeping waterfront views, whilst those that

look to the west enjoy vistas of New Haven's skyline.

www.hotelmarcel.com

36


MADRID SPAIN

THE MADRID EDITION

ONE OF EUROPE'S MAJOR CULTURAL CAPITALS AND A CITY

of elegant boulevards and manicured parks, Madrid is vibrant,

cheerful and rich in European art. Undoubtedly Spain's arts and financial

centre and famous for being an open city welcoming all kinds of people

from all over the world, the Spanish capital is one of the most populous

in the EU. Madrid is also a hugely cosmopolitan city where more than 180

nationalities live together. Combined with its warm climate, this makes

visiting Madrid a colourful and bright experience and on the city’s bustling

streets, art, food, history and culture come together in a flavourful,

metropolitan melting pot.

Centrally located by a 16th century monastery yet next to the city’s main

shopping area, to stay at Ian Schrager’s new 200-room EDITION in Madrid

is to be based in the busy centre of the action yet feel secluded once inside

the hotel.

Salvaged from an adjacent building, a decorative, reclaimed 18th century

baroque portal greets arriving guests and the property is bedecked with

refined touches by British architect John Pawson.

The minimalist all-white guest rooms are veritable cocoon-like retreats

from the hustle and bustle of the outside world (and the hotel’s happening

rooftop) and include 21 suites and two penthouses,

Crowned by a show-stopping 17-metre rooftop pool (the largest of any

luxury hotel in Madrid) complete with a row of in-water sunbeds, The Madrid

EDITION boasts an array of onsite eating and drinking options, including

restaurants helmed by Mexican chef Enrique Olvera and Peruvian Diego

Muñoz who are behind Jerónimo and Oroya respectively. There are also

three bars, a pretty decent gym and a spa with five treatment rooms,

making The Madrid EDITION a luxe one-stop urban resort.

www.editionhotels.com

38

MYKONOS GREECE

CALI MYKONOS

IN THE CENTER OF THE CYCLADES, THE RENOWNED

Greek island of Mykonos is probably most famous for its

cosmopolitan atmosphere, vibrant nightlife, colourful parties and hedonistic

nightclubs. This is a shame for non-party people who chose to avoid

Mykonos, for the island is actually rather beautiful, somewhat magical and

partying is not compulsory! The other face of Mykonos simply oozes peace

and calm from its stone-paved alleys and whitewashed houses to its quaint

chapels and picture-postcard villages and the island’s stunning beaches are

some of the best in the Aegean. And the nearby rocky island of Delos, the

mythological birthplace of Apollo, is an unmissable archaeological site when

visiting Mykonos.

Conceptualised by a talented team intimately connected to Greece, luxury

hospitality and sustainable design, designed by Athens-based architects

STFN Labs and gastronomically helmed by renowned Greek chef Lefteris

Lazarou, new deluxe boutique resort Cali Mykonos made its debut in July

2022, drawing inspiration from Greek mythology’s muse Calliope, traditional

Cycladic architecture and Mykonos’ vibrance.

By way of the resort’s 40 suites and villas, which descend down a hillside

towards the Aegean’s blue waters of Cali’s private beach, the resort is

something of a Mykonian sanctuary which nurtures connections amongst

its guests and their surroundings.

The resort’s 130-metre seawater infinity pool overlooking the sea, state-ofthe-art

gym, Pilates studio, private yoga instructor and restaurant serving

locally sourced food pave the way for guests to experience charming

Mykonos in a new light, whilst Cali’s concierge team is on hand to arrange

bespoke experiences and itineraries, including transportation via the

resort's fleet of electric vehicles.

www.calimykonos.com


SERENGETI TANZANIA

ANDBEYOND GRUMETI

SERENGETI RIVER LODGE

A HUGE, PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL AREA COVERING

approximately 30,000 square kilometres of northern

Tanzania, the Serengeti ecosystem is a World Heritage Site teeming with

wildlife, including some 4,000 lions, 1,000 leopard, 550 cheetahs and

more than 500 different bird species. It is also the location of the largest

annual mammal migration on earth, known as the Great Migration, when

roughly two million wildebeest trek some 800 kilometres across the

Serengeti. Beginning in the south of the Serengeti, with the birth of half

a million calves between January and March, the timing of the migration

coincides with greening of nutritious grasses on the short-grass plains

during the wet season. When the drought comes in May, the herd moves

north, towards the Masai Mara in Kenya, chomping down the high green

grass, quickly followed by the gazelles and zebras. Seeing any part of

this incredible natural wonder is an unforgettable sight.

40


Located on the banks of an oxbow lake formed by the seasonal

Grumeti River in a secluded western part of the Serengeti National

Park, andBeyond's Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge provides the perfect

vantage point for witnessing the Great Migration from late May to early

July when it passes through this area of the park.

After the original 1990s-built Grumeti Serengeti Tented Camp flooded

in 2020, andBeyond decided it was time for a comprehensive upgrade. The

newly reimagined 10-room luxury tented camp sits on the same footprint as

the original structure, but has been drastically upgraded and injected with a

generous dose of grandeur.

Courtesy of interior designers Fox Browne Creative and architect Jack

Alexander, the lodge’s new look is luxurious and contemporary whilst

retaining the rustic and tactile nature of the original camp. Not least, the

sweeping arc of the new guest areas follow the contours of the river,

creating a natural flow of lounging, sitting and dining areas. And guest suites

– now more than double their original size – feature deep soaking tubs and

indoor showers as well as outdoor decks with private plunge pools.

www.andbeyond.com


WIN

a majestic threeboard

suite stay

raffles the palm


PRIZE DRAW

night full

for two at

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43

BUDA

PEST

HUNGARY’S STORIED CAPITAL

IS AN UNFINISHED SYMPHONY

EXUDING GRANDEUR AND CEREMONY CITYWIDE, A LONG AND CHEQUERED

HISTORY HAS DEALT BUDAPEST MORE THAN ITS FAIR SHARE OF HIGHS AND

LOWS. BUT TODAY JOE MORTIMER FINDS THAT GRASSROOTS PRODUCERS,

RESURGENT WINEMAKERS AND AN ASPIRATIONAL POPULATION ARE

BREATHING NEW LIFE INTO THE HUNGARIAN CAPITAL

CITY FOCUS

BUDAPEST

HIGH ABOVE THE DANUBE, AN

iron raven is perched on the gates of

Buda Castle, a golden ring gripped

in its black beak. Below, Budapest

fans out in all directions, once the

epicentre of a Kingdom that stretched from the shores of

the Adriatic to the Romanian hinterland of Transylvania.

Legend has it that the dark-feathered messenger appeared

to 14-year-old Matthias Corvinus in the middle of the

15th century, beseeching him to return to Budapest, take

his place on the throne and rebuild the Hungarian state.

He did, and a golden age of prosperity began. Matthias I

eventually became King of Hungary and Croatia and the

symbolic bird was incorporated in the Corvinus family

crest. Yet while the raven and its ring stand eternal on

Castle Hill, the history of this great city continues to

unfold.

THE MOST RECENT CHAPTERS OF BUDAPEST’S

epic saga have been marked by a roller-coaster of events

that started with the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian

Empire at the end of World War I, which saw Hungary lose

almost three quarters of its territory and all its Adriatic

coast in the Treaty of Trianon. The Second World War

turned most of Budapest into a ruined wasteland, and the

subsequent Hungarian Soviet Republic era left a shellshocked

and decimated post-war population disillusioned

and thirsty for change.

Despite a heavy-handed response to the Hungary

Uprising of 1956 – a bid for liberty that cost 3,000 lives

– reforms ensued. After the collapse of the Soviet Union,

Hungary became a member of NATO in 1999 and joined

the European Union in 2003. In the relatively stable years

since, Budapest has witnessed a resurgence. EU funding

has seen many of Budapest’s most prestigious buildings

undergo extensive renovations, restoring civil landmarks

to their former glory.

Meanwhile, tourism has opened the doors to travellers

from across Europe, many of whom have discovered

Hungary’s rich cultural heritage for the first time. Real

estate developers and hoteliers are queuing up to breathe

new life into resplendent old buildings, and Hungarian

producers – farmers, winemakers, artisans, chefs,

distillers and contemporary artists ¬– have found an

outlet for their talents. The long-buried story of Hungary’s

epic history is once again being told.


Looking down Andrássy Avenue from Heroes' Square


47

CITY FOCUS

BUDAPEST

Buda Castle

GEOGRAPHY AND POLITICS:

NATURAL DIVISIONS

BUDAPEST IS A CITY OF TWO HALVES,

separated by the relentless flow of the Danube. Ancient

Buda stands proud on a series of hills on the west side of

the river, while Pest occupies the flatland to the east.

Imposing Buda Castle, or the Royal Palace as it is

sometimes known, is the seat of governance for those who

pulled the strings of historical Budapest: a projection of

power and ambition that was rebuilt extensively to match

its Viennese counterpart after the two cities merged in

the empire-forming Austro-Hungarian Compromise of

1867, kicking off a years-long process of aggrandisement

that saw many of Budapest’s civil buildings reinvigorated.

Like most buildings in the city, the palace suffered

extensive damage during WW2, its lofty setting providing

a vantage point for the beleaguered Hungarian and

German command and an obvious target for Soviet

artillery. The Neoclassical-Baroque building is now home

to Budapest History Museum, the National Gallery and

the National Széchényi Library – a veritable vault of

Hungarian history, art and culture – all nestled beneath

the mighty dome that’s visible from all corners of the city.

https://budacastlebudapest.com

AROUND THE PALACE, THE SPRAWLING

collection of buildings that make up the Castle Quarter

(Varnegyed) includes the elaborate Gothic fantasy that

is Matthias Church, festooned with beautifully ornate

designs and a diamond-patterned roof adorned with

an army of gargoyles and another statue of Matthias’s

raven, who keeps quiet watch over Budapest.

www.matyas-templom.hu

Matthias Church


Fisherman’s Bastion

CITY FOCUS

BUDAPEST

Located within the Hilton

Budapest hotel, which itself is

set within the castle district

right next to Mathias church,

LÁNG Bistro is the perfect place

to pit-stop for a relaxed lunch.

Offering a range of delectable,

authentic Hungarian fare and

a good range of affordable local

wines, if you reserve a table by

the front windows, you will enjoy

spectacular views as you sip and

dine. www.langbistro.hu

LÁNG Bistro

THE CASTLE WALLS THEMSELVES WERE

originally maintained by different city guilds.

The section outside Matthias Church was the

responsibility of the guild of fishermen, who lived in

the shadow of the walls in the Danube-facing area

known as Fishtown. Today, the seven stone towers

of the Fisherman’s Bastion representing the Seven

Chieftains of the Hungarians – the founding fathers

who established Hungary in the Carpathian Basin in

895 – offer one of the most spectacular vantage points

in the city.

Adjoining the castle and its warren of caves,

Gellert Hill is another vantage point from which

anyone prepared to make the

20-minute climb is rewarded with

breathtaking views of the city. Once

a tangle of vineyards, shrines and

clandestine meeting places, the

hill now serves as Budapest’s back

garden, criss-crossed with walking

trails. The Liberty Statue on its

summit, erected by the Soviets

after WW2, is somewhat cynically

referred to by locals as the world’s

largest bottle opener.

AT THE FOOT OF THE HILL,

the hulking Art Nouveau mass of the Gellert Hotel

is an iconic landmark, home to one of the largest

natural spring water bath complexes in Central Europe.

Established in 1918, the spa houses 10 thermal pools

of different temperatures, set in an elegant bathhouse

festooned with elaborate mosaics, stained-glass domes

and marble columns. While the hotel itself undergoes

an extensive refurbishment and awaits a big-name

hotel company takeover, bathers continue to visit the

spa, which has a distinctly local feel compared to the

better-known Széchényi Thermal Baths on the other

side of the river.

www. gellertbath.hu

Gellért Thermal Baths


51

CITY FOCUS

BUDAPEST

STARTING ANEW: WELCOME TO PEST

UNSURPRISINGLY FOR A CITY CLEAVED IN TWO

by a mighty river, Budapest has a penchant for bridges

and vital lifelines connecting Buda with its younger

sibling, Pest.

While the 1849 Széchenyi Chain Bridge – the first

and most elaborate of Budapest’s eight river crossings

– undergoes structural repairs, the loveliest is Liberty

Bridge: a Dollar-bill-green iron lattice linking Gellert

Hill with the Great Market Hall area of Pest. This iconic

structure is crowned with four statuesque birds of prey

with outstretched wings; not Matthias’s raven, but a

mythological creature called the Turul, which appears

frequently in Hungarian folklore as a protector of the

people. www.bridgesofbudapest.com

Eagle-eyed observers will notice a tiny statue on

the north side of Liberty Bridge, a miniscule bronze

figurine of Franz Joseph I – Emperor of Austria and

King of Hungary in the 19th century – relaxing in a tiny

hammock, nestled among the railings. It’s one of several

diminutive statuettes by Ukrainian sculptor Mihály

Kolodko that have popped up across the city in the last

decade. Like a Hungarian Banksy, Kolodko’s works

Emperor Franz Joseph by Mihály Kolodko

are often political in nature, while others are more

whimsical. Hungarian composer Franz Liszt, Kermit

the Frog, Brexit and NASA’s Lunar Rover have all been

depicted in these charming little statues, which can be

found in unsuspecting corners all over the city.

https://kolodkoart.com

52 Liberty ISSUE Bridge 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022

IN THE EARLY 19TH CENTURY, PEST WAS

completely redesigned: a new city purpose-built to

accommodate the growing population, designed around

a series of concentric circles and avenues similar to the

layout of Paris. Certain rules were set in stone: as a

symbol of the separation but equal importance of Church

and State, it was decided that the two greatest buildings

in Pest – St. Stephen’s Basilica and the Hungarian

Parliament Building – would be limited to the same

height, so neither was more prominent than the other.

That didn’t stop the architects of both from flexing their

creativity.

Inside the hallowed sanctity of mighty St. Stephens,

gleaming red marble columns, elaborate frescoes and a

magnificent pipe organ look like they were built yesterday,

the result of a 20-year refurbishment that was completed

in 2003. The jaw-dropping dome, inlaid with beautiful

frescoes and stained glass, soars 96-metres skywards, the

exact same height as the Hungarian Parliament Building,

a kilometre away. www.bazilika.biz

The Hungarian Parliament


CITY FOCUS

BUDAPEST

Opened almost 30 years after the Austro-Hungarian

Compromise of 1867, the Hungarian Parliament was a

statement declaring Hungary’s ability to stand shoulderto-shoulder

with other European capitals, particularly its

constant rival Vienna. With its riverside location, Gothic

buttresses, Renaissance details and soaring spires, it

resembles a Central European Westminster, but its white

icing façade and rows of ornate statues give it a softer

and more allegorical appeal.

www. parlament.hu

St. Stephens Basilica

St. Stephens Basilica


55

CITY FOCUS

BUDAPEST

A few steps away, Shoes on the Danube Bank by

Hungarian sculptor Gyula Pauer marks the spot where

3,500 Hungarian Jews were told to take off their shoes

before local Arrow Cross Party militia shot them and

threw their bodies into the river. The sixty pairs of bronze

men’s, women’s and children’s boots and slippers are

a memorial to them and the 564,000 Hungarian Jews

killed in the war, most of them deported to Auschwitz: a

powerful reminder of those dark times.

BUDAPEST STILL HAS A THRIVING JEWISH

community, one of the largest in Europe. Pest’s Jewish

Quarter has become the heart of the city’s nightlife, where

locals and tourists alike gather in ruin bars, which are

literally bars hastily set up in the wrecks of damaged

buildings. Some, like Szimpla Kert, the original ruin

bar, have evolved into thriving community and cultural

centres, offering farmers markets, live music, food stalls

and events, all nestled behind a crumbling façade.

https://szimpla.hu

Shoes on the Danube Bank by Gyula Pauer

57

CITY FOCUS

BUDAPEST

Heroes' Square

Dohány Street Synagogue is the third largest in the

world after those in Jerusalem and New York, and the

latter is an exact replica of Viennese architect Ludwig

Forster’s Budapest masterpiece. Built in a jumble of

styles that reflect the Middle Eastern roots of Judaism,

the synagogue has two domed spires that evoke both

the onion-domed spires of Orthodox churches and the

minarets of Islamic mosques.

www.dohany-zsinagoga.hu

IN 1987, UNESCO RECOGNISED THE BUILDINGS

that line the banks of the Danube and the elegant

bridges that span its haunted waters as a World

Heritage Site. Buda Castle Quarter and Andrássy

Avenue – a vital artery that connects St Stephen’s

Basilica to Heroes’ Square and the Museum of Fine Art

to the northeast – were later added to the inscription.

One of the oldest streets in Pest, Andrássy Avenue is

lined with elaborate mansions and opulent townhouses,

but no building gleams quite so magnificently as the

Hungarian State Opera. Another symbol of Budapest’s

ambition and cultural importance, the opera house is

a Neo-Renaissance confection of columns and statues

filled with exquisite Italian marble, beautiful frescoes

and a three-tonne bronze chandelier, a building so

beautiful it lured kings and queens from all over

58


Hungarian State Opera

Dohány Street Synagogue

Andrássy Avenue

Europe. Beneath the elegantly shod feet of operagoers,

the first underground railway in continental Europe has

rumbled along since its inauguration in 1896.

www.opera.hu

A stone’s throw from the opera house and ideal for a

pre- or post-dinner cocktail, Sfinx Bar is set within a

historic 1880s building at no. 8 Andrássy. The Budapest

home of award-winning Opera Gin and the brand’s

flagship bar, under soaring ceilings and from a long,

gleaming bar a variety of gin-based cocktails and

signature libations are efficiently and artfully dispensed

to a backdrop of DJ sounds at the weekends.

https://sfinxbar.com


59

CITY FOCUS

BUDAPEST

LOCATED IN HEROES’ SQUARE AND WELL OVER

a century old, Budapest’s imposing Museum of Fine

Arts stands out amongst the city’s cultural institutions

not least for being the largest museum in the country.

Having been extensively renovated recently and housing

one of the most important collections of European art

from antiquity to the present day, it displays almost

one thousand works in dozens of galleries and is worth

visiting even if you drop anchor at only one of the city’s

numerous museums.

www.szepmuveszeti.hu

Great Market Hall

Museum of Fine Arts

Sfinx Bar


RETURNING TO THE LAND

IN A CONTINENT WHOSE CITIZENS RELY MORE

and more on supermarkets to supply their daily needs,

it is refreshing to walk into Budapest’s Great Market

Hall shortly after lunch on a Friday and find its stalls

teeming with local shoppers. Inside, the 125-year-old

building resembles a central railway station or the

balloon of a vast airship, its roof lined with wrought

iron ribs and a thin orange skin that glows faintly

under the autumn gloom.

Rows of stalls overflow with the produce of Hungary’s

agricultural heartlands: salty salamis embellished with

local flavours like plum and sour cherry; cured local

Mangalica pork, artisan cheese and homemade honey;

and big bunches of red chilis, used to make Hungary’s

famous paprika.

Down in the bowels of the market, the basement

is home to the guardians of another Hungarian

specialty. Colourful jars stuffed with pickled

vegetables, root veg and alliums grace the walls of

every stand; row upon row of digestion-enhancing

crunch that brighten every meal.

Other stalls are loaded with the treasures of

Hungary’s wine country: golden bottles of luscious

Tokaji Aszú dessert wine, lesser-known Hungarian


61

grape varieties and the deceptively potent pálinka, a type

of brandy that’s not for the faint-hearted.

AMONG ALL OF THE TRAGEDIES TO HAVE

befallen Hungary in the last 500 years, the gradual

disappearance of its viticultural legacy stands out as

one that has had a particularly noticeable impact on its

culture. Hungarians have been making wine for more

than a thousand years, but the devastation of WW2 and

the brutal Soviet years saw the country’s once-proud

winemakers turn to industrial scale mechanisation in the

pursuit of high-yield grapes, abandoning the centuries

of viticultural nuance passed down from generation to

generation. But things are changing.

While the wine lists of London restaurants may include

the occasional bottle of dry Furmint – a refreshingly

savoury incarnation of the grape predominantly used

to make Hungary’s famously luscious Tokaji Aszú –

Hungarian wines remain one of the country’s best-kept

secrets. Dive into Hungary’s wine regions and you’ll

discover a world a of grape varieties that you have never

heard of, as well as plenty of household names that do

particularly well in Hungary’s mostly cool-climate wine

regions.

A FEW MILES OUTSIDE OF BUDAPEST IN THE

Etyek-Buda region (often called Etyek, for short), one

winemaker is drawing on a wealth of winemaking

knowledge cultivated in the vineyards of Mendoza to

elevate Hungarian wine to international standards.

Argentine winemaker Carlos Coelho established

Haraszthy Winery in 1996 and now cultivates 123

hectares of vines, making it the second largest winery

in Etyek-Buda. As well as international staples like

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon

and Pinot Noir, Haraszthy produces a bright cuvée that

blends traditional grape varieties Királyleányka and

Zenit with Szürkebarát (Pinot Gris) and Chardonnay,

making aa refreshing sparkling wine for hot summer

afternoons by Haraszthy’s pool. https://haraszthy.hu

In a bid to encourage more Hungarians to rediscover

a passion for the country’s wines, Haraszthy recently

opened the WineHub in Budapest; part shop, part

tasting theatre. It is ventures like this that are helping

Budapest reclaim its national pride and its rightful

place on the world stage as a producer of exceptional

quality goods. https://winehub.hu

BUDAPEST HAS BEEN AROUND FOR MORE

than a thousand years. For its citizens, the wind of

change has blown constantly through the ages and

the city has existed in a constant state of flux. As one

of the most aesthetically beautiful cities in Europe, it

wears its history on its sleeve. But today it seems to

be facing the future with a sense of renewed hope and

courage.

While the finishing touches are put on urban

renewal projects in the Castle Quarter and the

beautification of public buildings and bridges adds a

gilded edge to the banks of the Danube, there’s also

a pivot back to agrarian roots and community spirit

amongst the city’s creative communities. From the

ruin bars of Pest’s Jewish Quarter and the barrel

rooms of Etyek’s wineries to the hallowed surrounds of

the Hungarian State Opera, there’s a sense

that Budapest has turned a corner, hopeful

for the future, but mindful of the past: a time

Pálinka

Haraszthy Winery


CITY FOCUS

BUDAPEST


63

ARIA HOTEL BUDAPEST

YOUR ARRIVAL AT HOTEL ARIA BUDAPEST IS LIKE THE FIRST

strains of a musical opus. It starts gently, with a discreet

entrance on Hercegprímás in the historic heart of Pest, on the eastern side

of the Danube, footsteps from the mighty facade of St. Stephen’s Basilica.

Inside, the tempo builds as black and white piano key floor tiles lead

you gently into the check-in desk and onward into the Music Garden

Courtyard, where a grand rhapsody of vibrant colours and grandiose floral

arrangements indicate the first great movement of the piece. The piano key

floor dashes ahead and turns quickly upwards towards the glass-covered

atrium.

This convivial space is the day-time heart of the hotel, where local and

international flavours shine at casual breakfasts and a pianist serenades

guests every afternoon during a two-hour Hungarian wine and cheese

reception. Warm gold fixtures and vivid lime green furnishings accent the

black and white space. But it’s the piano that pulls focus: a full-size grand

from the workshop of Hungarian pianist Gergely Bogányi, created by

industrial designer Péter Üveges at the Liszt Ferenc Academy of music.

Aria’s melody dances across the guestrooms, which are all unique, inspired

by musical legends. Most of the rooms are wrapped around the inner

courtyard overlooking the glass roof of the Music Garden, with colourful

yellow terrace furniture for sunny afternoons. The hotel’s music library,

an archive of classical, opera and jazz albums and a collection of live

performance DVDs, is in the process of digitisation, which will enable guests

to select from the huge archive from in-room iPads.

The musical journey continues in Harmony Spa, where a neon-lit

swimming pool surrounded by Arabian Nights-style cabanas is overlooked

by a big-band mosaic, and treatments are accompanied by your own

personally selected musical playlist.

The walls of Café Liszt are covered in mirrors, each one signed by a

contemporary music legend – Placido Domingo, Lenny Kravitz and Rita Ora

have all left their mark, amongst many others – and a menu of European

dishes courtesy of chef Ferenc Jóvér includes a selection of Hungarian

staples given an elegant, modern twist.

Aria finds its crescendo in the High Note SkyBar, a stylish rooftop lounge,

bar and restaurant overlooking the magnificent dome of St. Stephen’s

Basilica and the imposing outline of Buda Castle. A creative and surprisingly

pirate-themed signature cocktail list created by bar manager Marcell

Sárközi lures a well-heeled crowd from early evening, and a bar menu and

wine list generously peppered with Hungarian wines keeps people there

until the early hours. Bright, playful and oh-so musical, Hotel Aria hits all the

right notes.

www.ariahotelbudapest.com

64

CITY FOCUS

BUDAPEST

MATILD PALACE

IT IS RARE TO EXPERIENCE A HOTEL WHICH SO SKILLFULLY

marries the yester-year glamour of a storied city such as

Budapest with super-luxe and modern guest rooms, happening restaurants,

buzzing bars and top-notch leisure facilities. But Matild Palace – part of

Marriott’s Luxury Collection portfolio – has it all in spades and the attention

to detail is exceptional. Obviously aimed at the most well-heeled and

discerning travellers visiting Budapest today, when Matild Palace debuted

in mid-2021 it undoubtedly set a new standard of luxury at the top of the

Hungarian capital’s hospitality scene.

Occupying a beautiful Belle Epoque palace-like building erected in 1900 at the

behest of Her Royal Highness Maria Klotild, arriving travellers enter Matild

Palace via huge wrought iron gates into an impressive gold-accented lobby

bedecked in rich greens and plush velvet furnishings. A bank of elevators

whisks guests up to four floors of 130 rooms and suites designed by MKV

Design to pay homage to the building’s former life and offer residents every

luxury and mod-con. Tasteful Art-Deco touches abound. TVs are hidden

behind giant mirrors. Beds are as sumptuous as they get. Bathrooms are

gorgeous marble-lined havens with Aqua de Parma amenities. The finishing is

universally superb - clearly no expense was spared by the hotel’s owners.

If you manage to reserve one of the hotel’s nine Elisabeth Bridge Suites – all

of which feature soaring ceilings and bathrooms larger than some London

flats – you will wake up to stunning views of the famous bridge, the mighty

Danube and Buda on the other side.

The guest rooms are sandwiched between food and beverage venues

top and bottom, with Matild Palace crowned by The Duchess bar and lounge.

Offering panoramic views from its outdoor decks, this is the place for an

aperitif (or two) before heading down to dinner.

On the ground floor, Matild Café offers breakfast, lunch and dinner in chic,

Parisian-like surroundings and, at the weekends, the theatrical double-height

space plays host to live entertainment and cabaret shows. Also on street

level, Wolfgang Puck has successfully transplanted to Budapest his famed

Beverly Hills restaurant, Spago. A hive of activity over the weekends, Spago

Budapest is already one of the city’s culinary hotspots and is packed on

Friday and Saturday nights with a hip and well-heeled crowd feasting on

modern Hungarian fare, complete with a superb wine list.

One floor down, guests can avail themselves of a large and very wellequipped

gym, and a spa where thermal therapy, traditional Hungarian

wellness experiences and Turkish-inspired bathing practices are combined in

a menu of bespoke treatments.

With in-house guests literally wanting for nothing, if the city outside wasn’t

so beautiful, it would be easy to spend a weekend at Matild Palace without

leaving the property at all. Indeed, if Her Imperial and Royal Highness Maria

Klotild of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha were alive today, she would surely give the

hotel her royal seal of approval and grace its magnificent portals herself.

www.matildpalace.com


65

5

MINUTES

WITH

deborah

myers

THE HUMBLE, MUCH-

LOVED BRITISH SOPRANO

HAS PERFORMED WITH

EVERYONE FROM

ALFIE BOE TO JOSÉ

CARRERAS DURING

HER GLOBAL,

DECADES-LONG

CAREER TO DATE

What sort of music

was played in the Myers

household when you

were young?

Although not a particularly musical

family, my mum loved classical music

and my Dad was a jazz fan.

Which musicians influenced young

Deborah?

I was four years old when I was taken to

see The Sound of Music. After the film

ended, I decided that I just had to be

a nun, fell in love with Julie Andrews

and watched everything she was in.

Barbara Streisand was also an idol. As

I began to sing more classically, I began

to listen to Maria Callas, Lucia Popp

and Kiri Te Kanawa.

Tell us about your first amateur

performance?

I was 12 when I played the role of

Gianetta in Gilbert and Sullivan's The

Gondoliers. I felt so grown up. Most of

the audience consisted of my family and

friends. The tremendous support of my

family and friends continues to this day.

Who first spotted your talent and were you

encouraged?

My mummy always thought I had a

beautiful voice, but I wasn't sure if

she was slightly biased! Between her

and my music teacher at school, I

was very nurtured. When I was 15, I

went for an advisory audition at the

Royal Northern College of Music in

Manchester. There and then I was

offered a place at the conservatoire

for when I turned 18.

Your career has taken you from Bratislava

to Brazil and everywhere in between.

What has been your most memorable

performance to date?

I have been incredibly privileged

to have performed in many, many

wonderful places and each was special

in its own way. But I will never forget

my first professional performance

abroad, at the 5,000-capacity Odeon

of Herodes Atticus amphitheatre in

Athens. The evening was dedicated to

Leonard Bernstein, who is one of my


favourite composers. My entire family

flew out especially, including my two

elderly grandmothers. I went on to

perform in Greece for many years,

including just recently. Consequently,

Greece has almost become like a

second home for me.

Tell us about your involvement with the

Horatio Alger Association?

The American Horatio Alger

Association is an educational charity

that assists high school students

realise their dreams and further their

education, which they wouldn't be able

to do otherwise, and I am honoured

to be an ambassador for such a

worthwhile NPO.

I will never

forget my first

professional

overseas

performance

at the 5,000-

capacity Odeon

of Herodes Atticus

amphitheatre

in Athens

Mario Frangoulis &

Deborah Myers

Your favourite concert venue on the planet?

The spectacular Odeon of Herodes

Atticus in Athens, which was built

between 160 - 174 AD.

Amongst many others, you have performed

with José Carreras?

Performing with José Carreras was

definitely a highlight of my career.

To sing with a man I had admired

and listened to for years was almost

like an out of body experience. He put

me at my ease and is an incredibly

humble person.

Which songs or arias are your favourites to

perform?

I enjoy performing many different

musical genres and am lucky to be able

to crossover and sing many types of

music, whether it be a musical number

from West Side Story or Mimi's aria

from La Bohème. Recently I sung Never

Enough from The Greatest Showman,

which I really enjoyed, and one week

later I was performing in Carmina

Burana which was totally thrilling.

You recently performed a string of summer

dates with Greek singer Mario Frangoulis

Mario and I met in 1995 when we were

cast as the young lovers in Rodgers

and Hammerstein's The King and

I. The connection between us was

instant and we enjoy a very special

on-stage chemistry. As much as I love

performing with other singers, I have

never had the same on-stage chemistry

with anyone else. It was as if Mario

and I were born to sing together and

we have regularly performed together

for the past 25 years.

Who would you love to duet with and why?

I would love to sing with Paul

McCartney because he's one of the best

songwriters in the world and a living

legend. I would have loved to have

dueted with Frank Sinatra, Nat King

Cole and Sammy Davis Jr.

How do you juggle being a wife and mother

of three with such a jet-set career?

I am very lucky to have an incredibly

supportive husband who has only

ever wanted the best for me. When

the children were young it was a lot

harder. I am a control freak and wasn't

very good at leaving them, so I was

very particular about which roles I

would and wouldn't take. Now they

are teenagers they are much more

independent and so I am much more

able to travel.

How does Deborah Myers switch off?

Like everybody else: Netflix!

What music do you listen to when you’re

relaxing?

Depending on what mood I’m in, it can

be anything from Madame Butterfly to

Dear Evan Hansen to Abba.

Favourite place in the world to holiday?

The Maldives with Thailand a close

second. We were in The Maldives last

Christmas and it was simply out-of-thisworld.

You don’t actually believe that

the sea is really that turquoise until you

are staring at it.

What do you have planned for 2023?

Post pandemic, it is wonderful to see

my 2023 diary filling up already with

concerts in the States, France and the

UK. I am also working on an album

with Mario Frangoulis which

will hopefully be released in

the new year.


67

72-hours with the

grand dame of singapore

L A D Y S O P H I A S U I T E

R A F F L E S S I N G A P O R E

➤

suit e envy

ENSCONCED IN A NEW SUITE

CREATED DURING THE

ICONIC PROPERTY’S MOST

RECENT REFURB, NICHOLAS

CHRISOSTOMOU ENJOYS THE

ATTENTIVE SERVICE AND

WEALTH OF CULINARY TREATS

AT PROBABLY THE WORLD’S

MOST FAMOUS HOTEL


69

GUESTS ARE IMMERSED IN AUTHENTIC OLD

world splendour immediately upon entering the hotel’s

spectacular three-storey lobby, which is lit from above

by giant glass-panelled skylights and framed by a

grand staircase. Exuding an atmosphere of lavish

restraint and hushed opulence, the lobby is dominated

by a massive yet inordinately chic Czech chandelier

that glistens with more than 8,000 crystals. My first

impressions are of a modest palace of hospitality

luxury where history and modernity co-exist in tasteful

harmony. Contrary to Marina Bay Sands, Raffles is

for discerning and refined globetrotters – cultured

travellers, if you will.

CONSISTENTLY RANKED ONE OF THE

world’s wealthiest n ions and renowned

around the globe for its opulence and

hospitality, in many ways Singapore is also

a city of excess.

A huge Asian financial center with a high standard of

living, the island state boasts dozens of Michelin-starred

eateries ranging from street food outlets to high-end

restaurants. And Singapore’s dining scene continues to

grow.

Love it or hate it, Singaporean architectural landmark,

Marina Bay Sands hotel contains more than 2,500 rooms

within its three towers. The entire Las Vegas-like complex

was built on reclaimed land. Now a fourth tower is in the

process of being built which will add a further 1,000 rooms

to Marina Bay Sands’ inventory.

Even Gardens By The Bay, which has attracted more

than 50 millions visitors since opening in 2012, boasts the

world’s largest glass greenhouse, covering 1.28 hectares

under its striking Calatrava-like roof.

Amidst such 21st century glitter, glamour and all things

OTT, to stay at Raffles Singapore is a completely different

Singaporean experience. No less glamorous but a great

deal more refined and oozing history from every pore, the

personalised service guests receive at Raffles Singapore

must surely be some of the best in Asia.

AS I BEGIN MY THREE DAYS IN SINGAPORE, IT

is evident from the get-go that I am staying at the hotel

where the city’s renowned hospitality reputation was born

and there is a lot more to this grand dame that meets the

eye. Being the Raffles brand’s flagship property and the

stuff of global hospitality legend, there are historical clues

literally everywhere I turn.

ONE OF JUST FOURTEEN SUITES IN THE MAIN

building, I am able to ascend the gorgeous staircase or

take the lift a few floors up to where the Lady Sophia

Suite is waiting for me. There is something regal about

coming down a staircase from one’s room to dinner,

whether in a house or a hotel. Before long, I feel that

staying in Raffles’ main building is akin to lodging in

a room of a sprawling and intensely historic country

house and I relish the prospect of descending to dine

nightly in one of the hotel’s many restaurants.

ENTERED VIA A PAIR OF LOFTY VICTORIAN

doors, the Lady Sophia Suite was named after the

wife of Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder of modern

Singapore. A recent addition to Raffles’ inventory, it was

designed by Alexandra Champalimaud as part of the

top-to-toe renovation of the entire property which was

completed in 2019. Fashioned from a former boardroom,

the suite consists of a parlour for living and dining,

a well-equipped butler’s kitchen, a guest cloakroom,

an airy triple-aspect bedroom with windows to three

sides, an oversized Bianco Dolomite-clad bathroom

and a private outdoor veranda which looks towards

Singapore’s business district. The suite is essentially a

swanky pied-à-terre in the heart of the city and is the

perfect base for my Singaporean sojourn to follow.

NESTLED IN THE FRONT-MOST CORNER OF

the main building overlooking the hotel’s main entrance

and Beach Road, in the late 1800s, the Lady Sophia

Suite would have been within a minute’s walk of

Singapore’s beachfront. Today, high-rises and shopping

malls stand between the hotel and the waters of

the Singapore Strait, yet Raffles remains the most

legendary property in Asia (if not the world) and I am

embraced by its warmth and surrounded by its history.

And from the windows in the lounge and bedroom I can

observe the comings and goings on the hotel’s graveled

driveway, which is the very same driveway that

welcomed horse-drawn carriages a century ago.

70


SUITE ENVY


71

SUITE ENVY

EARLY IN THE MORNING OF SINGAPORE’S

57th National Day, I get comfy on a rattan sofa on

my veranda and gaze at the cloud-skimming skyline,

sipping a cup of English Breakfast tea as the metropolis

slowly wakes up.

Rich oak floors throughout lending my suite an

intensely homely feel, it is not long before I begin to

experience the personalised butler service that Raffles

is famed for, when a pair of trainers I had planned to

pick-up from a local shopping mall appear on the dining

table with a hand-written note. Indeed, throughout my

short but sweet stay, small gifts and delicious treats

often appear in the suite and the fruit bowl is regularly

refreshed with an exotic arrangement of nature’s

bounty.

SUCH IS THE ARRAY OF FOOD AND BEVERAGE

options at Raffles Singapore that it is possible to dine

at a different onsite restaurant for days without leaving

the property. I linger over long lunches at Osteria BBR

by Alain Ducasse, which serves top notch Italian fare in

a bright, relaxed and contemporary space presided over

by an attentive team, and Yì By Jereme Leung, which is

tucked away within Raffles Arcade. Here my tastebuds

are entertained by some of the best Chinese food I’ve

sampled for years and the crispy pork belly literally

melts in my mouth.

Part of the hotel's history since 1892, I feast on a

North Indian gastronomic banquet for one at Tiffin

Room, just off the lobby, and on my final evening at

Raffles, I relish the tasting menu with paired wines

at La Dame de Pic, an offshoot of culinary maestro

Anne-Sophie Pic's three Michelin-starred Maison Pic in

southeast France. The complex and evocative flavours

of every course, the friendly staff and the superb cheese

trolley make this modern fine dining restaurant the

favourite food and beverage experience of my stay.

Whilst it is rude not to partake of a Singapore

Sling while staying at Raffles, since the nation’s

cocktail was created in 1915 by Raffles bartender

Ngiam Tong Boon, after dinner at La Dame de Pic, I

pull up a stool at Writers Bar for a leisurely digestif.

Very much a grown-up space, I sip my drink at the

brass bar beneath a sculptural chandelier overhead

before retiring to the Lady Sophia Suite where the

background music is classical, the lights are dimmed

and a pair of embroidered cobalt blue slippers are

waiting beside the bed.

THOUGHTFULLY REDESIGNED BY

Champalimaud Design during the hotel’s 2017-2019

renovation to restore the property’s social spirit and

invite travellers and locals alike into its lovingly

reimagined spaces, the Raffles Singapore I experience

during my 72-hour stay is elegant and sophisticated yet

engaging and warm. A rare example of an iconic and

intensely storied hotel which successfully straddles the

old and new, Raffles Singapore is truly one-of-a-kind.

A night in the Lady Sophia Suite at Raffles Singapore

costs SGD 4,209 room only, excluding taxes.

www.raffles.com/singapore


73

BEIRUT

LEBANON

the unbreakable city

a tale of rebirth

ONCE THE MIDDLE EAST’S BEACON OF SUCCESS, BEIRUT’S STRUGGLES

HAVE BEEN COMPLEX, PROTRACTED AND WELL PUBLICISED. YET, AS

LISA JEREJIAN REVEALS, THIS MEDITERRANEAN JEWEL REFUSES

TO SURRENDER AND IS WELCOMING AND GIVING AGAIN

DESTINATION

SPOTLIGHT

IMAGE: RAMI-RIZK.COM

SPOTLIGHT

BEIRUT

IN THE EARLY 1920S, THE RENOWNED

Lebanese poet and philosopher Gibran Khalil

Gibran wrote an ode to Lebanon, his birthplace.

In it, he juxtaposed the magic he saw with a

darker reality, “You have your Lebanon and its

dilemma. I have my Lebanon and its beauty” is the poem’s

powerful opener.

A FORMER PLAYGROUND FOR HOLLYWOOD

stars, world leaders and the international jet set, Lebanon

fell victim to a painful and bloody 15-year civil war. Until

1990 it devastated and divided the country.

Things finally began to look more promising for the

culturally and historically rich nation in the mid-2010s,

with 2017 declared Lebanon’s second-best year for

tourism since 1951. Yet the cheery spell was short-lived,

as corruption, sectarianism and a rapid deterioration in

living standards saw millions of Lebanese people take to

the streets in October 2019 in unprecedented nationwide

protests, with Beirut’s iconic Martyrs’ Square playing host

to some of the largest demonstrations. Although hopes

were high, the popular uprising did not lead to any major

change and the ‘revolution’ gradually lost momentum.

IMAGES: JOESOKHN.DARKROOM.TECH


it was the third-largest non-nuclear

blast in history and one that

claimed 218 lives, injured over

7,000 people and caused more

than usd 15 billion of damage


77

an archetypal phoenix, the

lebanese capital is courageously,

albeit cautiously, rising from

the ashes once again

78


SPOTLIGHT

BEIRUT

Just a few months later on 4th August 2020, a massive

explosion at Beirut’s main port saw the city previously

dubbed the ‘Paris of the Middle East’ violently

transformed into an apocalyptic nightmare, within a

matter of minutes. It was the third-largest non-nuclear

blast in history and one that claimed 218 lives, injured

over 7,000 people and caused more than USD 15 billion

of damage.

IMAGES: DIAMRAD.COM

WITH WESTERN MEDIA QUICK TO SHARE

Lebanon’s misery with the world – something it has

so often done – the Lebanese did what they do best:

fight. Despite widespread trauma, a severe economic

crisis, a paralysed government and a global pandemic,

community-led initiatives almost immediately surfaced.

Hundreds opened their homes to those who had lost

everything; youth groups mobilised and industriously

cleared away the millions of fragments of shattered

glass from every inch of the city; strangers comforted

one another in the streets and in hospital waiting

rooms; restaurants handed out free meals, and NGOs

and independent groups replaced the broken windows

and doors of damaged homes. In short, it was the people

who kept the city clinging to life in the aftermath of

such an incomprehensible tragedy. And now, just over

two years since it was razed to the ground, Beirut is

catching its breath and signs of rebirth are evident.


79

SPOTLIGHT

BEIRUT

IMAGE: JOESOKHN.DARKROOM.TECH

SWATHES OF RESIDENTIAL AND COMMERCIAL

neighbourhoods have been rebuilt. Public staircases have

been lovingly painted in bold and bright colours. Splendid

street artworks adorn innumerable buildings, including

some poignant graffiti. The intangible, dense mass that

has been looming over the city since August 2020 does

not feel as heavy anymore. Instead, hope now flickers in

Beirut’s blue skies.

AN ARCHETYPAL PHOENIX, THE LEBANESE

capital is courageously, albeit cautiously, rising from

the ashes once again as expats and adventurers in their

thousands are returning to soak up Beirut’s countless

delights. Indeed, summer 2022 signaled renewed

optimism for the country’s tourism industry.

THOSE DRAWN TO LEBANON’S MULTIFACETED

character, as well as its layered history, will tell you

that the country packs a big punch for its size: 225

kilometres of coastline, eleven Phoenician towns and

cities, five UNESCO World Heritage Sites, almost sixty

wineries, six ski resorts and an array of award-winning

restaurants and bars. The list is long. Even the famous

Lebanese saying, “ski in the morning and swim in the

afternoon” is no myth; it is one of the many wonders of

this Middle Eastern treasure. And with bustling Beirut

no more than a two-hour drive from some of the furthest

points of interest, such as the legendary Bacchus

Temple in Baalbeck and Tyre’s Necropolis, it is easy to

understand the allure of the capital as a base to explore

the entire country.


SPOTLIGHT

BEIRUT

IMAGE: JOESOKHN.DARKROOM.TECH

BEIRUT IS, QUITE SIMPLY, A MELTING POT OF

cultures. Wander around and you will see a harmonious

blend of French, Ottoman and Lebanese architecture

styles that evoke romantic memories of the past,

particularly in the artsy neighbourhoods of Gemmayze

and Mar Mikhaël. In spite of degradation and the port

explosion, these areas are still abundant in striking

buildings, like Zanzoun.

A charming heritage-house-cum-guesthouse that’s

located in a quiet yet convenient corner of Mar Mikhaël,

within walking distance of art galleries, concept stores,

cafes and trendy restaurants, Zanzoun is owned by Zeina.

A keen traveller and explorer, she has lovingly restored

the property to welcome guests from near and far.

Brimming with a medley of vintage, renaissance and

Oriental pieces throughout, the ground floor comprises

a library, salon, dining room, reading area, kitchen and

shaded terrace where guests can enjoy breakfast in peace.

On the first floor, reached via stairs or a modern lift,

another inviting common area can be found, in addition

to Zanzoun’s three bedrooms. Although two of the rooms

are slightly larger, with their own private balconies, all

three are spacious and elegantly designed, with mother of

pearl inlaid furniture, opulent fabrics and soothing colour

palettes.

Friendly manager Mario (himself an accomplished

artist) will proudly show you the murals he has painted

in Zanzoun while he talks about the history of the area,

as well as how, within three weeks of the port explosion,

Zeina and the team got the guesthouse up-and-running

again.

Mario routinely offers guests his WhatsApp number so

they can contact him any time of the day or night with any

questions and requests. What’s more, thanks to a recently

installed solar system, Zanzoun has electricity 24/7, which

is something of a blessing in Beirut! www.hotelibanais.com

IMAGES: DIAMRAD.COM

wander around

and you will see a

harmonious blend of

french, ottoman and

lebanese architecture

that evokes romantic

memories of the past


Zanzoun

THROUGH THE LENS OF ART AND PHOTOGRAPHY,

Beirut’s fragile rebirth is being realised and an array of

galleries can be found along Armenia Street, Gouraud

Street and the roads nearby, several of which have opened

since the blast. These include LT Gallery, that exclusively

showcases works by renowned and emerging Lebanese

talent; @theltgallery Août Gallery, named ‘August’ to

commemorate the month of the port explosion and pay

tribute to the city's lost art scene https://aoutgallery.com

and Art District, which showcases the powerful works of

Lebanese photographers. @artdistrictbeirut

HISTORY HAS SHOWN THAT REGARDLESS OF HOW

turbulent the times, the residents of Beirut, particularly

those who live in upscale Achrafieh, have an insatiable

appetite for social gatherings. This indomitable joie

de vivre can be witnessed firsthand at decadent Hotel

Albergo, which has long attracted well-heeled Beirutis

and their foreign guests for fancy breakfasts, afternoon

coffees and evening drinks. These days, it is the pretty

courtyard of the boutique hotel’s Lobby Café that

attracts the most stylish city dwellers by day, while a

cool crowd congregates at the fashionable rooftop Swim

Club after dark. https://albergobeirut.com

BEIRUT COMES ALIVE AFTER SUNSET AND

PARK by Elefteriades, perched atop Zaitunay Bay’s

yacht club, is the perfect place to kick-off a night of

rediscovering Beirut’s nocturnal attractions. Take a

seat, order a cocktail and start your weekend at Park.


SPOTLIGHT

BEIRUT

Albergo

Park by Eleftheriades

MusicHall Starco

the intangible dense mass that

has been looming over the city

since august 2020 does not

feel as heavy anymore

Centrale

85

SPOTLIGHT

BEIRUT

Typical of Elefteriades’ theatrical genre, the chic rooftop

bar and chill-out venue affords a multitude of different

places to sit (including amongst the greenery) and enjoy

panoramic vistas of the Mediterranean, the marina,

yachts and Lebanese hospitality icon Phoenicia opposite,

which recently reopened after a two-year restoration.

@thepark_byelefteriades

NO EVENING IN BEIRUT IS COMPLETE WITHOUT

a visit to happening Centrale, with its futuristic

17-metre tunnel-like bar suspended over its restaurant,

all nestled within the rescued ruins of a protected

1920s residential house. Not only is the Bernard

Khoury-designed bar an architectural gem, but bar

manager Michel and his team consistently impress with

their superb hand-crafted cocktails and the top-notch

fare served to guests as the roof retracts above them to

let the sultry night in. Centrale’s Lychee Martinis are

addictive and the vitello tonnato is not to be missed.

@centralebeirut

just over two years

since it was razed to

the ground, beirut is

catching its breath

and signs of rebirth

are evident

EXPERIENCING MICHEL ELEFTERIADES’

MusicHall Starco at least once is an absolute must.

It is, in no uncertain terms, Beirut’s entertainment

compass, where Lebanese of all ages come together

to celebrate and commiserate with live music, food,

drinks and dancing until the early hours. The July 2022

resurrection of this landmark nightlife venue, where

nieces and grandmothers routinely hang out and party

together, marked yet another important step for Beirut,

reaffirming its effervescence and urban immortality.

www.themusichall.com

BEIRUT’S HEART IS UNDOUBTEDLY SCARRED

yet its spirit to survive is perhaps today stronger than

ever before. A new wave of energy is driving the city

in a positive direction, particularly in terms of its

hospitality and tourism offerings. And while dilemmas

have weaved their way into the precious fabric of

Beirut and the great nation of Lebanon, the tapestry

itself is still achingly beautiful and worthy of

admiration, just like Gibran said, one hundred

years ago, in his poetic verse.

WITH THANKS TO PHOTOGRAPHERS:

RAMI RIZK RAMI-RIZK.COM

DIA MRAD DIAMRAD.COM

JOE SOKHN JOESOKHN.DARKROOM.COM

IMAGE: RAMI-RIZK.COM


KEMPINSKI SUMMERLAND

HOTEL & RESORT

BEIRUT, LEBANON

FIRST OPENED MORE THAN HALF A CENTURY AGO BY RAJA

Saab, a prominent Lebanese businessman, the original

Summerland quickly became a place where people could stem the tide of

worry brought on by the grim reality of the country’s long and bloody Civil

War. If you ask almost any long-term Beirut resident about Summerland, they

will get all misty eyed before recounting a childhood memory involving the

cascading waterfalls, the hotel’s legendary nightclub or attending a wedding

on the beach. Countless stories abound about this historic resort.

Summerland closed towards the end of 1990s for maintenance but largely

stayed that way until reopening in 2016 after a massive transformation

project which reputedly cost USD 600 million. Today owned by a Saudi-

Lebanese joint venture, the complex's current incarnation is managed by

Kempinski, Europe’s oldest luxury hotel group, established since 1897.

Just twenty minutes in a taxi from downtown Beirut and ten minutes from

the airport, Kempinski Summerland offers a swish waterside lifestyle

encompassing upscale apartments, a private marina, various food and

beverage venues, a range of leisure facilities and a deluxe five-star hotel.

The resort's private sandy beach is nestled around a lagoon adjacent to

a vast, sprawling freeform swimming pool which must surely be the largest

in the Lebanese capital.

Whilst the resort's structure, look and feel were greatly changed and

updated from the original Summerland, many key features with which locals

had emotional ties were retained, including hundreds of private pool cabins

which are still owned by their original owners.

When reinventing Summerland, its lead designer, David T’Kint and his team

took inspiration from natural Lebanese elements, such as the cedar tree

forest, sunshine and blues of the Mediterranean Sea. Various aspects of

Lebanese culture were also reinterpreted to create a continuous thread

throughout the property. These delightful touches are evident everywhere,

from the beige flooring at the hotel’s entrance – cut to include an eightpointed

Rub el Hizb star pattern – to walls in the lobby, fully clad with grey

wood, inspired by the country's cedar tree forests. Meanwhile a staircase

that leads guests down to the bar and all-day dining restaurant has a

handrail inspired by the branch of the cedar tree.

The countless, thoughtful references to Lebanon's natural beauty

throughout Kempinski Summerland transform what might otherwise have

been an over-sized hotel into a warm and inviting place to unpack, relax,

recharge and enjoy life.

www.kempinski.com


SPOTLIGHT

BEIRUT

THE SILK VALLEY

AARBÂNÎYÉ, LEBANON

PUNCTUATED BY GROVES OF OLIVE TREES AND TOWERING

pines as far as the eye can see, the peaceful and unspoilt

surroundings of Lebanon’s scenic Aarbânîyé region are in stark contrast to

Beirut’s bustling metropolis yet are just forty minutes’ drive from the capital.

Indeed, after a hectic weekend in Beirut, there is almost certainly nowhere

better to relax and unwind than Lebanon's Mont-Liban range, which crosses

the country from north to south, parallel to the Mediterranean and The

Silk Valley resort is set in the very heart of it all, completely surrounded by

nature.

Opening its doors in the mid 1800s, the Hamada Silk works in Aarbânîyé

were one of many such works in Lebanon which afforded widespread social

and economic change, as silk production became one of the country’s

staple industries. Teams of skilled spinners were brought from France to

train young Lebanese women who, for the first time, left their homes to work

and produce silk.

The Hamada Silk works closed sometime during WWI and lay

deteriorating and derelict for decades, until one man, who was born in the

nearby village of Baabdat, bought the property and took on the massive

task of breathing new life into the historic site. Today the works are known as

The Silk Valley.

The passion project of Albert Aoun and his family, The Silk Valley is a unique

resort located some twenty kilometres’ drive from central Beirut in an

area of intense natural beauty. Dominated by a towering, brick chimney

stack, over a period of some years, Aoun has lovingly overseen the gradual

transformation of the dilapidated old works into a warm and welcoming

retreat-like hotel, restaurant, conference and leisure complex, all nestled

within the bones of a variety of old structures, set-out something like a selfcontained

mini village.

Facing the beautiful Aarbânîyé-Broumana Valley on one side of which the

resort is perched, modern guest rooms and duplex lofts offer spectacular,

expansive vistas of pristine forests. The morning air in this part of Lebanon

is perhaps the freshest in the country. A spacious two-bedroomed villa

known as the ‘Blue House’ sits in an upper, secluded part of the resort,

offering discerning guests private designer lodgings for an intimate break.

Within the vast, main characterful building, chef Eddi Eid prepares

unfussy and hearty fare made from the freshest local produce, with almost

all of the fruit and vegetables used in his cooking hand-picked from The Silk

Valley’s own gardens and orchards.

Excellent local hiking and a host of onsite leisure facilities – including a

gorgeous infinity pool, boasting panoramic views from the water – make The

Silk Valley a one-stop must-stay Lebanese destination in its own right.

https://thesilkvalley.com

89

MARRAKECH

MOROCCO

morocco’s

BEGUILLING TRAVELLERS FOR CENTURIES, ALEX

BENASULI RE-VISITS THE CHARISMATIC CITY WHERE

EUROPE, THE MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA MEET

DESTINATION

TRAVELLER

LOWDOWN

inimitable

ochre city


TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

MARRAKECH

Morocco has been dazzling

travellers with its unique

culture, breathtaking natural

beauty and exotic ways for

centuries. Its inimitable

identity – a unique mélange of original Berber

tribesmen, Arab conquerors and the remnants of the

country’s French colonial era – is evident in a society

rich in history and character, complete with a

globally appreciated design aesthetic and distinctive,

flavourful cuisine. And there is no better place in

the country to experience the diversity, vibrancy and

spirit of Morocco than Marrakech.

AS ONE OF MOROCCO’S FOUR, HISTORICAL

imperial cities – along with capital Rabat, Fes and

Meknes – Marrakech stands apart as the most

visited metropolis in the kingdom, filled with

hidden palaces, bustling souks and botanical gems.

Above all, Marrakech has been a cultural, religious

and trading centre for all of Morocco and North

Africa for over a millennium and remains today as

cosmopolitan, alluring and captivating as ever.

WHILST THERE ARE SIGHTS TO SEE AND

shopping to be done in Marrakech, there are

also numerous gardens, olive groves, parks and

courtyards in which to stop, unwind and relax.

Amongst the city’s most famous are the Menara

Gardens, boasting forty varieties of olive trees, and

the sprawling 12th century walled Agdal Gardens

which form the city’s oldest preserved park.

www.jardin-menara.com

Not to be missed and known as Yves Saint Laurent’s

garden, Jardin Majorelle’s origins are 1920s French

colonial art deco. The garden was the brainchild

of its original owner, celebrated French painter

Jacques Majorelle. Saint Laurent purchased the

site from Majorelle in the 1960s and later gifted

it to the city. A veritable oasis of calm and beauty

in the middle of the trendy residential district of

Guéliz, the meticulously maintained garden is most

famous for the electric blue cubist villa at its heart,

which is today home to the Islamic Art Museum

of Marrakesh and houses a personal collection

of artifacts owned by Saint Laurent and his life

partner, Pierre Bergé. www.jardinmajorelle.com

DURING THE FRENCH OCCUPATION OF THE

country from 1912 to 1956, Marrakech developed a

decadent undertone. Winston Churchill, Paul Bowles

and Saint Laurent all spent time here. A few years

later, the city earned its hippie-chic credentials

in the 60s and 70s when musicians including

Jimi Hendrix found inspiration in the fabled city.

Today, more than ever, Marrakech is an effortlessly

fashionable and stylish yet authentic destination,

with new boutique and luxury hotels opening often.

To spend any amount of time in Marrakesh – be

it just a weekend or longer – is to be swept up in a

deeply sensory North African adventure.

THE DEFINING FEATURE OF MARRAKECH IS

its reddish-pink beaten clay ramparts surrounding

the extensive medina, the old city. The medina was

designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985.

92

Menara Gardens

Jardin Majorelle

94 Koutoubia ISSUE Mosque 40 DECEMBER 2022 – FEBRUARY 2023

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

MARRAKECH

Bab Agnaou

Dating back to the 1100s, its sprawling walls carve

impressive lines throughout the city. The reddishpink

colour saturates almost all of Marrakech,

even the newer districts. Hence Marrakech is known

by many as the ‘red city’.

Along the outside of the old fortress walls

are pedestrian boulevards landscaped with rows

of rose bushes. As the sun sets and the heat

of the day wanes, throngs of locals take to the

park-like boulevards for their evening strolls.

Women eschew Western dress in favour of

kaftans and headscarves while many men wear

flowing djellaba-like robes. Car traffic competes

with donkey carts and bicycles for right of way.

In Marrakech, beauty and chaos co-exist in a

kaleidoscope of colour, energy and harmony.

THERE IS NO BETTER PLACE TO IMMERSE

oneself in the exotic cacophony of Marrakech than

Jemaa el-Fna, the city’s main public square and

claimed by many to be the largest in North Africa.

Historically and to this day, the square acts as both

a crossroads and marketplace for Bedouin tribesmen

from different parts of the country, from the High

Atlas Mountains, Sahara Desert and even parts

of Sub-Saharan Africa to the numerous oases and

agricultural centers around Marrakech.

By day, Jemaa el-Fna is predominantly occupied

by orange juice vendors and stalls selling figs, dates

and every type of nut. Interspersing them are snake

charmers and Barbary apes that perform tricks for

a fee. Ad hoc street dentists with huge pliers are

available should you require a sudden extraction.

However, it is at night that Jemaa el-Fna really

explodes with life.

Once the sun has set, magicians, acrobats and

storytellers jostle for attention with dancing boys,

healers and fortune-tellers. Dozens of food stalls

serve street food to locals and tourists alike. As

most of the people participating in the square’s

day-to-day life are locals, it can sometimes feel a

tad overwhelming as a tourist. However the sights,

sounds, colours and dynamism of this real life

performance ooze the essence of the city and no visit

to Marrakech, or Morocco for that matter, would be

complete without experiencing Jemaa el-Fna.

www.morocco.com/attractions/djemaa-el-fna

ONCE JEMAA EL-FNA HAS BEEN

experienced, the rest of Marrakesh makes more

sense and seems a lot less daunting, particularly the

souks of the medina. For many visitors, bargaining

and shopping in the souks of the old city represents

the quintessential Marrakech experience. Access to

the souks can be reached directly from Jemaa el-Fna

via the many gates that break up the continuity of

the old city walls. Amongst the best preserved, the

12th century stone Bab Agnaou gates to the medina

are worth seeing.

Whether you are a keen shopper or not,

meandering through the medina’s maze-like tangle

of streets and gazing upon stall upon stall of fresh

fruit and local crafts and pharmacies filled with

exotic spices, potions and lotions is a Marrakech

experience to be embraced. It is also in the souks

and in the medina that one begins to get an

appreciation for Moroccan design, which has greatly

evolved over centuries.

Bahia Palace


95

Saadian Tombs

From carpets to ceramic pottery, geometric metal

lighting fixtures to silver and amber jewellery and so

much more, one could furnish and decorate an entire

house in the souks, or just purchase a few keepsakes

to take home. Most of Marrakech’s historical sites

can also be found close to the medina, including

Koutoubia Mosque with its 77-metre minaret,

the city’s largest mosque, and floor-to-ceiling

extravagant 19tth century Bahia Palace.

https://bahia-palace.com

DISCOVERED IN 1917, THE SAADIAN TOMBS

offer a glimpse into another world. Constructed in

the late 16th century by Sultan Ahmed el Mansour

as a burial ground for his descendants and he, the

tombs boast some of the most impressive woodwork

in the entire country. In fact, much of the finest

traditional Moroccan craftsmanship is on display

here, with domed ceilings, marble carvings, cedar

doors and intricate gilded honeycomb plasterwork

in abundance. Literally every centimetre of this

architectural and historical jewel incorporates

elements of handcrafted design work.

www.morocco.com/attractions/saadian-tombs

TO GLIMPSE ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF

stunning traditional Moroccan architecture, Ben

Youssef Madrasa must be on your list. Located

within the medina walls, it is the largest Madrasa

in all of Morocco and was originally one of the

biggest Islamic theological colleges in North Africa.

Constructed in the late 16th century, it closed as a

college in the 1960s and is now open to the public.

A carved cedar doorway gives way to a large

courtyard, replete with mesmerising geometric


TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

MARRAKECH

tiling, ribbons of painted Islamic calligraphy and

intricate plasterwork upper walls and ceilings.

A large, central courtyard pool reflects all of this

immense beauty. For a small fee, a local guide can

help you understand the historical and design links

to the best examples of Iberian Islamic architecture,

such as the Alhambra in Granada and the Alcázar

of Seville.

DESPITE SUCH INCREDIBLE LOCAL

craftsmanship widely on display throughout the city,

Marrakech is much more than a living museum or

an example of colourful and chaotic North African

life. Foreigners have also been flocking to the city to

relax, unwind and be pampered since the time of the

French protectorate. And apart from high summer,

Marrakech’s year-round continental climate makes

it an ideal place to kick back and unwind.

Warm sunny days in winter, autumn and spring

are tempered with cool nights. Rains rarely last more

than a few days at a time. On clear days, of which

there are many, the peaks of the High Atlas, often

snow-capped, form a picturesque backdrop. And

there is no greater pleasure than decamping to the

roof terrace of a smart riad, or spending time in the

gardens of legendary La Mamounia, gazing at the

mountains while enjoying tea and Moroccan pastries

or sipping local wines which happen to be rather good.

98 Ben Youssef Madrasa

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snow-capped peaks of the Atlas Mountains, Fairmont Royal Palm is the ultimate oasis of luxury, located only

twenty minutes from the vibrant medina of Marrakech.

Whether you are here for a private getaway, family treat, business retreat, fine tuning your Golf swing or

exploring the wonders of Marrakesh, Fairmont Royal Palm promises to make you experience the grandest of

sensations.

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TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

MARRAKECH

IN THE OLD CITY THERE ARE MANY

boutique hotel-style riads that boast beautiful

architecture, contemporary design and intimate

service. A little out of the centre, in the Palmeraie

district in the north east of the city between the

Route de Fes and the Route de Casablanca, palm

and fruit trees have been cultivated for hundreds

of years and a cluster of large deluxe resorts boast

extensive grounds, multiple swimming pools, a

range of leisure facilities and sumptuous spas.

TO PROPERLY COMPLETE YOUR

Marrakech immersion, one must indulge in an

authentic cleansing and relaxation hammam ritual.

After lying down on a stone bed in a humid steam

chamber, an attendant or tellak will bathe you from

head to toe, apply various oils and then proceed to

scrub and exfoliate your entire body using a kessa

glove to remove unwanted dead skin, dirt and grime.

A thorough rinse is usually followed by a short,

relaxing massage and then you’re good to go!

Hamman newbies have been known to become

addicted after their first visit not least because

many Moroccan hammams are themselves

veritable architectural works of art, typically

consisting of marble and alabaster caverns

punctuated by shafts of light piercing the stone

from outside.

OFFERING SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE,

it’s easy to see why Marrakech has remained such

a desirable destination for so long. For adventure

seeking history buffs to design connoisseurs,

foodies, shopaholics and even those who just want

to relax in an interesting location complete with

service fit for a king, Marrakech is a versatile

and exotic destination. And for those wishing to

see more of Morocco, day trip possibilities abound

from Marrakech, the surrounding mountains and

verdant valleys providing excellent hiking and calm

respite from the heat, hustle and bustle of the city.

With so much on offer, visiting Marrakech can

be a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, or a

destination cultured travellers return to,

year after year, to uncover a touch more

Moroccan magic each time.

Jemaa el-Fna

Marrakech's souks


101

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER VISITS

STANDOUT MICHELIN-STARRED

RESTAURANTS IN HELSINKI AND

SINGAPORE, PLUS AN IMMENSELY

STORIED SOUTH AFRICAN WINE

ESTATE IN STELLENBOSCH

FINNJÄVEL SALONKI

➤ HELSINKI, FINLAND

MARGUERITE

➤ SINGAPORE

LANZERAC ESTATE

➤ STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA

Lanzerac Estate, Stellenbosch, South Africa

REVIEW

A MODERN RESTAURANT WHICH DRAWS UPON MORE THAN A CENTURY

OF FINNISH CULINARY HERITAGE, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU REVIEWS

A HELSINKI GASTRONOMIC LANDMARK WHERE THE MARRIAGE OF PAST

AND PRESENT IS CREATING DELECTABLE NEW FOOD MEMORIES

104

FINNJÄVEL

SALONKI

➤ HELSINKI,

FINLAND

FOOD

ATMOSPHERE

I’M SAD TO SAY THAT I’VE EATEN

in too many much-lauded fine dining

restaurants which felt more like a

museum than a social venue. Lacking

soul and life and being presided over by

stiff staff is not a recipe for an enjoyable

and fulfilling dining experience. In an

industry suffering a distinct shortage

of well-trained staff post pandemic,

even the operation of a fine dining

restaurant is not straightforward in

this day-and-age. Yet despite the staff

shortages, there are still many excellent

all-round restaurants in Europe that

serve exceptional food and are rightly

deserving of their accolades. As always,

one just needs to pick the right one.

A carefully considered and lovingly

executed restaurant serving thoughtful

and delectable cuisine in the heart of

Helsinki, Finnjävel couldn’t be more

different to the fine dining stereotype.

And since realising that he knew

embarrassingly little about the history

of Finnish food, Finnjävel’s driving

force, chef Tommi Tuominen, has been a

man on a gastronomic mission.

THE BRAINCHILD OF TWO

Finnish chefs, Tuominen and Henri

Alén, Finnjävel was conceived and born

some seven years ago as a pop-up.

Since the word jävel means devil,

literally translated the restaurant's

name means ‘Finnish devil’. A

derogatory term used by the Swedes in

the 1950s and 60s to refer to Finnish

immigrants who mass-migrated to

Sweden in search of a better future,

today the word finnjävel is taken as

complimentary by most Finns, and is on

a par with the Finnish word sisu.

The Finnjävel pop-up garnered a

great deal of local and international

support during its two years of

trading. So much so, that by the time

Finnjävel was due to close in 2018,

the restaurant’s success had taken

even its owners by surprise. So after

some deliberation, Tuominen and

Alén decided to re-open Finnjävel as a

permanent venue in 2019.

SOMETHING OF AN HOMAGE TO

the bygone masters of Finnish cuisine

and a culinary cultural statement

presented in the form of a restaurant,

the foundation of Finnjävel is relatively

simple, as many of the best concepts

often are.

Inspired by Finnish home cooking

and the historic creativity of Finns

to cook hearty meals with limited

ingredients, Finnjävel’s dishes are

based on the type of food that Finns

would have eaten a century or more ago.

Finnjävel essentially recreates Finnish

culinary classics for the 21st century

Tommi Tuominen

Salty Fish


105

Veal Olive

using recipes passed down through

generations, embodying a multitude of

eras and flavours and employing many

traditional Finnish food preparations.

Meats are sourced from carefully

selected Finnish farms and fish

comes from Finland’s lakes. The

herbs, mushrooms and berries used in

Finnjävel’s dishes are more often than

not foraged by hand. And vegetables

and fruits come from organic producers

across the country.

CONSISTING OF TWO ADJOINING

restaurants within landmark Helsingin

Taidehalli (Kunsthalle Helsinki)

– a classic 1920s Nordic building

dedicated to exhibiting contemporary

art – Finnjävel is located on the edge of

Helsinki’s Design District.

Whilst both restaurants positively

celebrate Finnish cuisine, design and

craftsmanship, Finnjävel Sali is a

relaxed brasserie serving a menu of

satisfying dishes. Sali is the perfect

place for a casual lunch, dinner or family

gathering.

A more sophisticated and altogether

finer dining experience open five nights

per week, to dine at one Michelinstarred

Finnjävel Salonki is to enjoy

the finest elements of Finnish design

and indulgent, well-considered food. Yet

whilst the food is presented in a chic

dining room fashioned by renowned

Finnish brother and sister team, Kivi

and Tuuli Sotamaa of Ateljé Sotamaa,

and much thought and attention to

detail has been obviously invested

in Finnjävel Salonki, the dining

experience is not stuffy. Special, yes,

but not pretentious. Indeed, there is

no dress code or even suggestions as to

what Salonki diners should wear, which

sets the mellow tone for The Cultured

Traveller’s visit on a Friday evening in

August.

MANY FINNS ARE OUT OF

Helsinki for the month of August,

either travelling or hanging out in

their summer cottages. Nevertheless,

both of Finnjävel’s restaurants are

busy when we arrive and a relaxed

sense of indulgence is palpable as we

enter Salonki's dining room. Holding

just twenty-eight people, there is no

real ‘entrance' to be made when we

take our seats. A muted funky musical

soundtrack is a welcome background

in a fine dining establishment and

the dimmed lighting and deep rich

colour palette make for an inviting

combination, as does a glass of

Legras & Haas Grand Cru Blanc de

Blancs Brut which is poured almost

immediately by affable sommelier,

Otto. On the menu, the restaurant’s

division of its two wine packages into

“good wines” and “better wines” says

everything about Finnjävel’s lack of

pretention.

ONCE COMFORTABLE IN OUR

seats, it is obvious that an

extraordinary amount of care has been

taken in the selection of every item on

the table before us, not to mention the

furniture and fittings all around. From

floor-to-ceiling, everything was forged,

made or built in Finland to showcase

Finnish design and craftmanship,

including, most importantly, the cutlery,

knives and crockery. And an ingenious

system built into the tables allows for

directional lighting to be focused on

the food during the course of the meal.

106


TASTE & SIP

REVIEW

Comfortable and relaxed, we embark

upon a five-course tasting menu which I

feel is just the right number.

THE FIRST AMUSE BOUCHE IS A

playful arrangement of small fresh

vegetables served with a moreish

herbal yoghurt dip. This is followed

by a profiterole of caramelised onions

presented on a small wood podium,

served with a bowl of crayfish consommé.

Light and flavourful, the two amuse whet

our appetites perfectly.

The suolakala first course of slightly

salted salmon (cured in-house) and

served with salmon roe, potato salad

and dill sauce is typically Finnish yet

presented in a contemporary style.

A powerful German Silvaner from

Franken, oozing citrus and floral

aromas, is the perfect pairing for the

salmon starter.

A little light table theatre is

introduced with the delivery of the

second course, as the pinaattikeitto or

spinach soup is delicately dispensed

around a smoked confit egg yolk

surrounded by cubes of egg white and

fragments of pork. The Silvaner works

equally well with the spinach soup.

A third course of pork neck in aspic,

or tytinä in Finnish, is bursting with

flavours and is accompanied by a dense

and intensely mineral Riesling that

brings out its meaty richness, although I

wish there was more!

The succulent organic beef tenderloin

main is beautifully crusted with crispy

wheat and a few flowers and garnished

with roasted carrots and chanterelles.

Paired with an intense and fullbodied

2017 Lemberger from Dautel in

Bönnigheim, the fourth course is the

highlight of the meal, although the two

desserts which follow come a close second.

A PRE-DESSERT OF FRESH

Finnish raspberries served with

whipped cream is a few mouthfuls of

pure sweet indulgence. Whilst a berry

crumble, served with vanilla cream

and a light yoghurt sorbet is the perfect

ending to the meal, particularly paired

with an exceptionally palatable Finnish

raspberry wine from Ainoa Winery in

Southern Finland.

HAVING OBVIOUSLY DUG DEEP

into Finland's culinary past in

order to create its culinary future,

Finnjävel's creators have founded a

modern gastronomic institution which

is perhaps unsurpassed anywhere

in Finland. A historical Finnish

gastronomic road-trip presented on a

series of painstakingly well considered

plates, a visit to Finnjävel Salonki

delivers the culinary heart of the

country in one meal and is surely a

must for any serious foodie

who appreciates high-end

Nordic fare.

FINNJÄVEL

SALONKI

FOOD

ATMOSPHERE

EXECUTIVE CHEF: Tommi Tuominen

ADDRESS: 3 Ainonkatu, Helsinki 00100,

Finland

TELEPHONE: +358 300 472 340

EMAIL: salonki@finnjavel.fi

WEBSITE: www.finnjävel.fi

CUISINE: Modern Finnish

OPENING HOURS: Tuesday - Saturday

17:00 - 23:00

DINNER PRICE: EUR 98 or EUR 126

IDEAL MEAL: Five-course tasting menu

EUR 98

RESERVATIONS: Essential

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

CHILDREN: Children welcome. Highchairs

available. No kids menu

CREDIT CARDS: All major

PARKING: On the surrounding streets

TCT REVIEWER: Nicholas Chrisostomou

for dinner

Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s

feedback about the food and service and,

separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

Tytinä

107

SET WITHIN THE

WORLD’S LARGEST

GLASS GREENHOUSE

ON THE EDGE

OF SINGAPORE

BAY, NICHOLAS

CHRISOSTOMOU

VISITS A NEW

CONTEMPORARY

FINE DINING

RESTAURANT THAT

LANDED A MICHELIN

STAR WITHIN EIGHT

MONTHS OF OPENING

NEW

MARGUERITE

➤ SINGAPORE

SOME MIGHT SAY

that Singapore’s

famed Gardens by the

Bay – filled year-round with tens of

thousands of tourists and brimming

with cafés and gift shops – are an

unlikely location for a sophisticated

gastronomic establishment. Merely

navigating the crowds may be enough

to put anyone off their dinner, let

alone act as a prelude to a standout

culinary experience. But right in the

heart of this global tourist attraction,

semi concealed beneath a gigantic

greenhouse, is Melbourne-born chef

Michael Wilson's latest venture and

perhaps, with hindsight, the location

is perfect.

DESIGNED BY BRITISH

architects Wilkinson Eyre and

something of a Singaporean landmark,

the cavernous Flower Dome is the

world’s largest glass greenhouse. Within

its vast, glazed confines, a variety

of lush gardens are dedicated to the

world of Mediterranean plants and

the planet’s semi-arid areas. Literally

bringing together countless seasons

and the world’s flora under one gigantic

metal and glass roof, the massive

greenhouse is geographically located in

the center of one the world’s fine dining

hubs, where literally dozens of much

lauded restaurants are concentrated.

So conceivably nowhere was more

appropriate than the Flower Dome for

Wilson to unveil his first fine dining

restaurant as its chef patron.

A CHILDHOOD SPENT IN

Australia's culinary capital of

Melbourne, which boasts a wide variety

of international cuisines, provided young

Wilson with early introductions to much

that the gastronomic world has to offer.


TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

COMER

Chef patron Michael Wilson

Following two decades spent working

in the food and beverage industry, from

washing dishes in a local restaurant

to working at Melbourne’s oldest fine

dining establishment, Wilson was

appointed executive chef of the Puli

Hotel in Shanghai. Here he developed

Phénix, serving inventively reimagined

French cuisine. The restaurant was

awarded a Michelin star just five

months after opening.

TOWARDS THE END OF 2019,

Wilson teamed up with hospitality

group Unlisted Collection to transform

a cluster of spaces within Gardens by

the Bay which were formerly occupied

by POLLEN.


109

Afforded complete creative license

by Unlisted, Wilson first opened an

authentic pet friendly gelateria at

Gardens by the Bay, named after his

Golden Retriever, Mylo. This was

followed by a casual Mediterranean

sharing concept restaurant, Hortus.

Two years in planning and named

after the French word for ‘daisy’,

which is derived from the Greek

word margarite that means ‘pearl',

Marguerite opened in November 2021

firmly rooted amidst the Flower Dome’s

gardens, showcasing the seasons’ best

produce via lovingly crafted tasting

menus of contemporary cuisine which

veritably celebrate every ingredient.

IT IS A BALMY SINGAPOREAN

Sunday evening when I arrive at

Marguerite via the restaurant’s

dedicated buggy service, literally fresh

off a plane from Europe. Offered to every

guest with a lunch or dinner reservation,

a buggy and driver await as my car

pulls-up in Gardens by the Bay’s arrival

plaza. The buggy whisks me through the

throng, darting around tourists directly

to Marguerite’s front door. My slick and

somewhat theatrical arrival is perhaps a

taste of things to come.

DESPITE BEING A TAD SLEEP

deprived as I enter Marguerite, what

I notice almost immediately are

three long kitchen islands, parallel

to each another and in full view of

diners, where I soon establish that

more than 60 percent of dishes are

prepared. This instantly bonds diners

with the chefs preparing their food

whilst providing an active, visual

backdrop to the dining room. Fine

dining establishments are so often

filled will guests eagerly anticipating

the appearance of their plates from

hidden kitchens, that this refreshing,

understated element of live culinary

theatre lifts me from my jet lag and

engages me with the gastronomic

experience ahead.

Also standout, a pair of huge boulders

in the dining room cleverly bring the

outdoors in and give diners a sense of

place, whilst slick Scandinavian-style

furnishings and white marble-topped

tables provide a neutral canvas for the

culinary creativity to follow. The entire

space is fresh, unpretentious, warm

and inordinately comfortable for a fine


TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

yet constructive way. Yes, the dishes

are intricately prepared and the

presentation is exquisite, complete with

handmade crockery fashioned by local

craftsmen. But each dish is skillfully

constructed in such a way that every

ingredient has room to shine and the

star attraction is not over-powered

by the supporting accoutrements. A

case in point is Wilson’s outstanding

Dungeness Crab dish.

Served as a duo of dishes, the crab

is cooked sous vide and simply dressed

with olive oil, salt and pickled shallots,

allowing the sweetness of the crab to

shine through. It sits atop a delicate

cucumber meringue garnished with

herbs and flowers. In a separate bowl,

a savoury cucumber sorbet is finished

with wood sorrel and surrounded by a

refreshing lettuce gazpacho, which is

poured tableside for a touch of drama.

The two dishes work in perfect harmony

as a course.

THE REST OF THE MEAL

proceeds in the same fresh, bright and

creative vain, each plate revealing

differing layers of textures and flavours.

And whilst most courses are paired

with fine wines, some are married with

non-alcoholic beverages of clarified

juices and fermented teas, which do a

great job of breaking up what would

otherwise be a constant flow of vino.

dining restaurant, which in itself is an

achievement, even before I sample a

morsel.

THE AMUSE-BOUCHES AND

courses that follow appear relatively

simple and unfussy but unravel in my

mouth, tantalising my tastebuds.

Of the array of hors d'œuvres

presented on individual wooden dishes

(or ‘snacks’ as they are casually termed),

a petite pastry cone filled with a blend

of chicken liver and foie gras parfait, a

touch of prune purée and a smattering

Chef patron Michael Wilson

of walnut fragments is a mouthful

of heaven. And a mini aged kingfish

and Amur sturgeon caviar tart is not

only beautiful to behold but tastes

sensational. With such thought and love

obviously devoted to the amuse-bouches,

my palette is alive and I am keen to

taste and sip the main event.

WHAT FOLLOWS IS A

meticulously crafted seven-course

tasting menu of contemporary

dishes that focus on showcasing the

season’s best produce in a creative

SINCE EVERYTHING I AM SERVED

infuses my mouth with a different taste

sensation, it is obvious that Wilson is

a master at extracting, concentrating

and intensifying flavours from the

ingredients he uses to create intensely

tasty and thoughtful dishes. It is

perhaps unsurprising therefore, that

a mere eight months after opening,

Marguerite was awarded a Michelin

star. Yet this is a Michelin-starred

restaurant with a difference, for

it is devoid of pretentiousness, the

atmosphere is relaxed and the food is

absolutely delicious. For these reasons,

not to mention the warm and attentive

service, I would return to Marguerite

jet-lagged and sleep deprived

in a flash.

www.marguerite.com.sg


111

EXPERI

1959 Lanzerac

Pinotage


FORTY-FIVE MINUTES’ DRIVE

FROM THE MOTHER CITY IN

THE HEART OF THE CAPE WINELANDS,

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU VISITS ONE

OF SOUTH AFRICA’S MOST HISTORIC WINE ESTATES

LANZERAC ESTATE

STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA

WINE PRODUCTION

has been indigenous to

the lands around Cape

Town for more than 350 years. Soon

after the Dutch first settled in South

Africa in the mid 1600s, wine farms

began to spring-up in-and-around the

Mother City. Today, the Cape Winelands

and its history of viticulture are one of

South Africa’s most popular draws and

few visitors to the rainbow nation pass

up the opportunity to visit its wineries.

And quite rightly so, for the Cape

Winelands are gorgeous and the main

wine-producing areas of Stellenbosch,

Franschhoek and Paarl are responsible

for some seriously fine wines.

LYING EAST OF CAPE TOWN IN

the fertile Eerste River valley bordered

by mountains to the east, Stellenbosch

was founded in 1679 by the then

Governor of the Cape, Simon van der

Stel. Partly commemorating his own

name, he named Stellenbosch after a

little island in the Eerste River and the

wealth of natural vegetation growing in

the valley. Within a year, a number of

farmers had settled in Stellenbosch.

ESTABLISHED IN 1692 BARELY

a dozen years after Stellenbosch was

founded, Lanzerac’s first owner, Isaac

Schrijver, planted the farm’s first vines.

Surrounded by stunning scenery,

Schrijver named his farm Schoongezicht

meaning 'wonderful view’. This was to

be the beginning of the estate’s long and

continuing history, punctuated in 1961

by Lanzerac bottling the first Pinotage, a

1959 vintage. The first-ever monovarietal

Pinotage bottled and released in South

Africa and a blend from two Stellenbosch

vineyards (Bellevue Estate and

Kanonkop), the wine won the trophy at

the Cape Young Wine Show in 1959.

ENCE


113

THE THIRD OLDEST FARM IN THE

area, Lanzerac is deeply storied with

history literally bursting from every

corner of the estate, making it one of the

most enticing and enchanting wineries to

visit in the Western Cape today.

THE TONE FOR THE CULTURED

Traveller’s visit to Lanzerac is set when

a Bentley Continental Flying Spur pulls

up in front of our Cape Town hotel to

drive us to Stellenbosch. A combination

of classic and modern in all the best

ways, the Bentley’s engine is almost

absurdly powerful as we are whisked

towards the winelands in supreme

comfort. Forty-five minutes later we

coast into Stellenbosch.

One knows when one arrives in

Stellenbosch for its streets are lined

with majestic oaks and restored

18th and 19th century Cape Dutch

architecture abounds. It’s a picturesque

city in every way.

To get to Lanzerac we pass through

residential streets towards the outskirts

of the city, where a long driveway lined

in tall trees marks its entrance. As we

pass through the gates and seemingly

glide between ancient oaks towards our

final destination, we enter a realm of oldworld

charm saturated with a rich sense

of Cape heritage. Nestled in the foothills

of Jonkershoek Valley, flanked by

vineyards on both sides and mountains

to the right, Lanzerac's setting impresses

immediately. We alight the Bentley

beneath a small portico at the main

entrance to the hotel.

FORMERLY A WORKING WINE

farm until the Rawdon brothers adapted

the estate almost 65 years ago to

receive overnight guests, soon after

arriving, we discover that the main

building we enter was ravaged by a

massive fire in May 2017. In fact, the

fire so severely damaged the property’s

operational areas that Lanzerac was

forced to completely close to the public

for more than a year.

WHEN GENERAL MANAGER

Emile Langenhoven recounts that

fateful Sunday morning some five years

earlier and we hear about the extent of

the devastation, it is miraculous that

the estate re-opened at all, let alone

just thirteen months later. Thankfully

out of many fires a phoenix rises and

Lanzerac is no exception, for when the

estate re-opened it did so with renewed

gusto and a fresh outlook, absorbing the

fire into its colourful 330-year history

as a moment in time.

A TOUR OF LANZERAC’S HISTORIC

buildings, conference rooms,

restaurants, bustling deli and elegant

bars reveals a wealth of fascinating

history and an array of architectural

treasures, punctuated by antique

furnishings and valuable artworks

throughout, not to mention the estate’s

most imposing building, a white gabled

Cape Dutch manor house. Something

of a national treasure, the manor house

was built in 1830 by Coenraad Fick

and exhibits an unusually high level

of sophistication for architecture of the

period.

Feeling more like a country

house estate rather than a working

winery, as we head towards the guest

accommodation, everywhere we

turn is teeming with character and

warmth. Hence settling-in is almost

instantaneous once we reach our room.


TASTE & SIP

EXPERIENCE

GUEST ROOMS AND SUITES AT

Lanzerac afford residents space to

spread out, lavish bathrooms and every

conceivable amenity, including, in many

cases, secluded outside areas, private

pools and stunning surrounding views.

One half of an old outbuilding that

was converted in 1959, The Cultured

Traveller’s plush suite – room number

210 – is spacious and homely with

a comfy sofa and armchairs and a

working fireplace. Upstairs, a lounge

with a well-stocked minibar filled with

complimentary wines, drinks and

snacks boasts windows which look out

across the estate. Outside a private pool

is surrounded by well-tended gardens.

The overall set-up is perfect for a

relaxing break in the Cape Winelands

and even the most well-travelled visitor

could not possibly want for more.

AFTER A DELIGHTFUL AL-FRESCO

lunch under the dappled spring sunlight,

followed by an hour of down-time spent

unwinding in the hands of an expert

therapist in Lanzerac’s sumptuous spa,

our attention shifts to sampling the

nectar that Lanzerac is famous for.

Wine tastings can sometimes be

overly formal, with makers talking at

those doing the tasting rather than

interacting in a convivial fashion. With

decades of experience, it is perhaps

unsurprising that the Lanzerac team

knows exactly what it’s doing. Pitched

just right and hosted by spirited Zia

van Rooyen du Toit within the bowls

of cellars which date back to 1815, our

tasting is informative and fun with

interludes of sober conversation and an

exchange of views. We sample ten wines

in total, of which a 2020 Mrs. English

Single Vineyard Chardonnay’s oaky

notes of butter and vanilla and wealth

of citrus on the nose make it stand out

amongst Lanzerac’s whites. A complex

and well-rounded wine, it is surely

capable of being paired with almost

anything except red meat.

Of the red wines we sample, two are

exceptional: a 2016 Pionier Pinotage

and a 2018 Le Général Left Bank

Blend. Silky smooth and refined with

intense flavours of leather and smoke

and a sophisticated and lingering

finish, the Pionier Pinotage is a wine

to be lingered over, sipped slowly and

appreciated. An altogether different

red, being a blend of Cabernet

Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot and

a touch of Merlot, the full-bodied 2018

Le Général Left Bank is more rich and

powerful but equally as palatable as

the Pinotage.

After the wine tasting, pre-dinner

cocktails in atmospheric Craven

Lounge, to a backdrop of a crackling

fire, precede a flawless meal of

flavourful dishes in the hotel’s Manor

Kitchen restaurant complete with

friendly and attentive service, thus

concluding the day’s proceedings on a

gastronomic and oenological high.

SET WITHIN BEAUTIFUL

grounds in the most spectacular

location and so much more than a

vineyard, to visit Lanzerac is to eat

and breathe wine, gastronomy and

five-star hospitality at a passionately

run property brimming with genuine

warmth from every pore. When in Cape

Town, make time to visit Lanzerac

Estate and you will undoubtedly

leave with a deeper understanding

and appreciation of South African

winemaking together with memories

of a stay at a unique and inordinately

hospitable destination

winery.

https://lanzerac.co.za


115

You have to stay here at least once

in your lifetime.

Situated on a private quay uniquely poised between Cape Town’s vibrant V&A Waterfront and the

tranquil yacht marina, Cape Grace is the ideal retreat from where to enjoy the splendor of the

Mother City’s natural and cultural beauty, as well as the warmth of our people.

Cape Grace Managed by Accor

capegrace.info@accor.com

V&A Waterfront, Cape Town, South Africa

FASHION ICON

the incomparable

master of pleats

OVER THE COURSE OF SIX DECADES, ISSEY MIYAKE BUILT ONE OF THE

WORLD’S MOST RECOGNISED FASHION BRANDS AND, IN THE PROCESS,

DEFINED AN ERA IN JAPAN'S MODERN DESIGN HISTORY. SUCCUMBING TO

LIVER CANCER IN AUGUST 2022, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER LOOKS BACK AT

THE CAREER OF THE FIRST JAPANESE DESIGNER TO SHOW IN PARIS

NEVER ONE TO EMBRACE TRENDS,

Issey Miyake was globally renowned

for using fabric manipulation to create

origami-like pleated garments that

allowed the wearers to express their

own individuality and freedom, his

dynamic spirit driven by a relentless

curiosity and constant desire to convey

joy via his designs. A true pioneer,

whilst Miyake embraced traditional

handcrafts and drew on ancient

traditions – the folding of paper, the

drape of fabric – to create timeless yet

completely modern looks, he also looked

to the latest technology and newest

solutions, constantly driven by research

and development. By the 1980s, this

made his name a byword for Japan's

design and fashion prowess. By the

turn of the millennium, Miyake was

renowned for his technology-driven

clothing designs, exhibitions and

hugely successful fragrances, including

his first, L'eau d’Issey, which was

launched twenty years ago, is still an

international best seller and spawned a

range of spin-off scents.

BORN ON 22ND APRIL 1938 IN

Hiroshima, Miyake was seven years old

when the atomic bomb was dropped on

the city, while he was in a classroom.

Surviving the bomb but developing a

bone-marrow disease a few years later,

his mother died of radiation poisoning

in 1941, when he was 10. In 2009,

Miyake wrote in The New York Times,

“‘When I close my eyes, I still see

things no one should ever experience:

a bright red light, the black cloud

soon after, people running in every

direction trying desperately to escape. I

remember it all. Within three years, my

mother died from radiation exposure.”

In the same piece he continued, "I have

never chosen to share my memories or

thoughts of that day. I have tried, albeit

unsuccessfully, to put them behind me,

preferring to think of things that can be

created, not destroyed, and that bring

beauty and joy.”


FASHION ICON

anything that’s ‘in

fashion’ goes out

of style too quickly

Issey Miyake

Grace Jones wearing

Issey Miyake


119

FASHION ICON

Paris Fashion

Week 2016

curiosity and

happiness are at

the core of my work

Issey Miyake

MIYAKE FIRST DEVELOPED AN

interest in design after discovering the

Peace Bridge and West Peace Bridge

in his home city, which were designed

by American sculptor Isamu Noguchi

to symbolise Hiroshima’s recovery

from the atomic bombing. As Miyake

grew into adulthood, he found himself

gravitating towards the unlikely field

of fashion design, which was a creative

discipline he viewed as "modern and

optimistic".

AT 21, MIYAKE ENROLLED AT

Tama Art University in Tokyo where he

graduated in in graphic design because

fashion was not offered there as a

course of study. Before his graduation

in 1964, he produced a show titled A

Poem of Cloth and Stone at the Tokyo

Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

Its aim was to demonstrate that clothes

can be both visual creations as well as

purely utilitarian items, thus setting

the scene for a future of unconventional

and ground-breaking shows.

Within two years, Issey Miyake had

moved to Paris, where he apprenticed

in the studios of iconic French fashion

designers Guy La Roche and Hubert

de Givenchy, mastering draping and

classic tailoring to create beautiful

couture clothes. At the same time he

also regularly travelled to London,

fascinated by boutiques such as Biba,

which were shaking up Britain’s

fashion scene.

Paris Fashion

Week 2016

When Miyake was caught up in the

French student riots of 1968, he was

inspired to make clothes for everyone,

rather than just the elite. “I realised

that the future was in making clothing

for the many, not the few. I wanted to

make clothing that was as universal as

jeans and T-shirts,” he said.

IN 1969, MIYAKE MOVED TO NEW

York City where he met influential

artists including Christo and Robert

Rauschenberg. He enrolled in English

classes at Columbia University and

worked on Seventh Avenue for a short

while as Geoffrey Beene’s assistant,

who was one of America's most famous

fashion designers at the time.

Paris Fashion Week 2016

RETURNING TO TOKYO IN 1970,

he founded the Miyake Design Studio, a

high-end producer of women's fashion,

showing his first collection in New York

in 1971. Because Miyake’s garments

were so different to anything else and

were in many cases closer to art and

architecture than clothes, magazine

editors loved his creations, almost

from the very start. And from the early

days of Miyake’s career, his clothes

were widely exhibited in galleries and

museums. He once said of his work,

"Curiosity and happiness are at the

core of my work. Design is never static,

but it is only possible after constant

exchanges of ideas, aesthetics and

sensibilities.”


121

Fall 2020

Ready To Wear

TECHNOLOGY-DRIVEN, TEXTILEfocused

and endlessly inventing,

Miyake experimented with a range

of materials, fabric manipulation and

construction techniques to cultivate

fashion innovations, whilst at the same

time reviving virtually lost traditional

production methods to facilitate the

manufacture of his unique garments.

BY DEFINING A JAPANESE VISION

that was unique from the West, by the

mid 1970s, Miyake had become a star

amongst a generation of designers and

artists who had attained global fame.

Yet he often emphasised that he was

not “a fashion designer”, choosing not to

identify with what he considered to be

frivolous and trend dependent.

IN 1976 HE PRESENTED AN

entirely new type of fashion show

named Issey Miyake and Twelve Black

Girls which combined theatre, dance

and performance art. The cast was

exclusively black and featured the then

unknown Grace Jones who Miyake cast

in the leading role. The show catapulted

Jones into the limelight and their

creative partnership would become a

lifelong friendship.

IN THE 1980S, INSPIRED BY THE

togas of Ancient Greece and the Fortuny

gowns of 19th century Venice, Miyake

began to experiment with new methods

of pleating that would allow flexibility of

movement for the wearer, his origamilike

pleats transforming crass polyester

into something altogether chic. Once he

had perfected his technique of pleating

by wrapping fabrics between layers

of paper and putting them into a heat

press, creating garments that held their

pleated shape, and he had tested them

on dancers, he launched his signature

Pleats Please line in 1988.

Light and wrinkle-proof, combining

functionality with a versatility, not

needing to be dry-cleaned and able to be

machine-washed and lasting for decades

without losing their shape, the line was

wildly successful. Routinely featured as

part of his mainline collection, Pleats

Please became a separate brand in 1993.

Miyake considered Pleats Please

garments to be an example of a great

product rather than great fashion. Of


FASHION ICON

Fall 2020 Ready To Wear

Pleats Please, he said, “I wanted the

clothes to move when people moved.

The clothes are also for people to dance

or laugh.”

Following the success of Pleats

Please, again and again Miyake

returned to his fundamental concept of

starting with a single piece of cloth, be

it draped, folded, cut or wrapped.

NEXT CAME HIS REVOLUTIONARY

A Piece of Cloth line launched in 1998,

or A-POC for short. Akin to a stocking,

each A-POC item was a seamless piece

of cotton, nylon, and polyurethane

fabric woven in a tubular shape on an

industrial knitting machine from a

single thread.

design is not

for philosophy,

it’s for life

Issey Miyake

Fall 2020 Ready To Wear

SINCE EACH ITEM WAS DESIGNED

to be slightly oversized when cut

from the roll, wearers could cut and

customise their garments with a pair of

scissors without the hems unravelling.

By making the wearer the ultimate

designer of the outfit, Miyake’s quick,

efficient and customisable A-POC

system pushed conventional textile

technology and created everyday

clothing that transcended passing

fashion trends, revolutionising the

process of dressmaking in the process.

When Miyake introduced A-POC

to the world at his S/S show at the


123

FASHION ICON

École des Beaux-Arts in Paris in 1999,

models slowly padded down the runway

connected together in a long, red

A-POC tube, much like a caterpillar.

New York’s Museum of Modern Art in

New York almost immediately acquired

an A-POC item for its permanent

collection. “Anything that’s ‘in fashion’

goes out of style too quickly,” Miyake

told Paris Voice magazine in 1998. “I

don’t make fashion. I make clothes.”

A CONTINUATION OF MIYAKE'S

experiments with fabric and

construction, the Bao Bao Issey Miyake

accessories collection launched in 2000

with a now iconic bag. Perfectly suited

to busy and modern lifestyles, the

articulated, flexible and functional Bao

Bao bag quickly became a favourite

amongst architects, designers and

trend-setters, with the bag's triangles

creating different shapes when it is

moved or placed on surfaces.

Celebrated architect Zaha Hadid was

a fan of Miyake’s designs, often carried

a Bao Bao bag, and one of her favourite

creations of his was a padded kimono

jacket that she preferred to wear upside

down.

One of Miyake’s most enduring

designs – with new shapes, sizes and

fabric variations released yearly - there

are dedicated Bao Bao Issey Miyake

stores across Japan and China.

thanks to shapes and darts made by

sharp creases and folds - they become

dresses, blouses, and pants. “These

clothes are very light, like air and are

season-less,” Miyake said of the concept.

A FAMOUSLY PRIVATE PERSON,

Miyake was nevertheless known for his

close relationships with his longtime

co-workers and collaborators, whom

he credited with being essential to his

success.

Midori Kitamura met Miyake

in 1974 when she was just over 20

years old, visiting his Tokyo studio

as a fit model. Working with him for

decades, today Kitamura is the quietly

influential president of the Miyake

Design Studio.

Mary-Kate Olson

wearing Issey Miyake

it to be something that made people feel

free and happy.” Miyake will perhaps

therefore be best remembered for his

work which was always more craft

and technological feat than fashion,

and for being a designer who

successfully and uniquely

married comfort and style in

his garments.

Zaha Hadid wearing

Issey Miyake

THROUGHOUT HIS LIFE, MIYAKE

never stepped back from the process of

making things, which he loved, over the

years taking inspiration from a variety

of cultures and societal motifs, as well

as everyday items, including plastic,

rattan, traditional Japanese washi

paper, jute, horsehair, foil, yarn, batik,

indigo dyes and wiring, to name but a

few.

INTRODUCED BY MIYAKE IN 2010

using computer technology to create

apparel, new design concept 132 5 was

one seamless piece of three-dimensional

fabric reduced to two, with the fifth

dimension emerging when the garment

was worn. When folded, the clothes are

in flat, geometric shapes. Unfolded -

TODAY AND PERHAPS FOR

decades to come, the fact

that Pleats Please garments

are so deeply entrenched in

the daily lives of modern

women is testament to the

endurance of Issey Miyake’s

fundamental concept that

“design is not for philosophy,

it’s for life.” A constant lover of

consistency and the reason

he believed his garments

to be so successful, he

said of his most famous

line, “I designed Pleats

Please based on modern

technology and

engineering, but at the

same time I wanted


IMAGE: BRIGITTE LACOMBE

SHOPPING

christmas

gift guide

AT THE END OF A SOMEWHAT TURBULENT

2022, FROM SIBERIAN WOOL SLIPPERS AND

SATIN PYJAMAS TO DESIGNER LUGGAGE

AND INDULGENT TRAVEL ELIXIRS, JACKIE

NEEDLEMAN HAND-PICKS A RANGE OF DIVINE

GIFTS TO BRING SMILES TO THE FACES OF

YOUR LOVED ONES THIS CHRISTMAS

OSANNA

VISCONTI ALGA

CANDLEHOLDER

IT IS OFTEN SAID THAT THE

pieces Osanna Visconti creates

today are inspired by the wonderful memories

of playing with her sister as a child in Rome.

Molded as organic stems and cast in an Italian

foundry in natural bronze using the lost wax

technique, each of these gorgeous Alga multi

candleholders is a unique, one-of-a-kind piece

and will surely be the focus of the Christmas

table, at least until the food arrives! GBP 2,220

https://osannavisconti.com

BRITISH BOXERS

MEN’S PYJAMAS

THESE EYE-CATCHING SATIN PYJAMAS

for him, in a regimental stripe, were

designed by British Boxers especially

for the brand’s luxurious Christmas

collection. Channeling deluxe home comfort and

fashioned from crisp cotton with a satin sheen,

they’ll keep you cosy against the harshest of

nights. The collection includes a number of other

pieces including nightwear for women, so you

can wear super chic matching his and hers PJs

on Christmas morning if you wish! GBP 99

www.british-boxers.com


JIKONI HUG IN

A BOX HAMPER

A COSY KITCHEN-STYLE

restaurant serving Asian comfort

food with British, African and Middle Eastern

twists, award-winning chef patron of Jikoni in

Marylebone, Ravinder Bhogal has put together

this Christmas hamper with a difference. A

scrumptious gift for someone who appreciates

global flavours, Bhogal’s ‘Hug in a Box’ contains

her addictive Jikoni mix, three jars of chutney,

a bottle of South Pickenham English sparkling

wine and some paan and cashew fudge.

GBP 95 www.oikonilondon.com


127

YOKO WOOL

SIBERIAN SLIPPERS

YOKO WOOL CONNECTS CUSTOMERS WITH THE

heart and soul of the Irish landscape via luxurious

woolen clothing and accessories. These lightweight,

soft and fluffy Siberian wool slippers will keep your

feet toasty without overheating whilst also allowing them to

breathe. EUR 25 https://yokowool.com

PRAWN ON THE

LAWN COOKBOOK

WITH CHAPTERS INCLUDING

Cold Tapas, Hot Tapas, Large

Plates, Sides, Desserts and Cocktails, this

Prawn on the Lawn cookbook provides

simple techniques for creating amazing fish

and seafood dishes with maximum impact.

Ideal for a foodie who loves entertaining

and wants to produce fuss free restaurantquality

food at home. GBP 16.05

www.amazon.co.uk

STAND STUDIO

NANI FAUX-FUR

JACKET

FOUNDED IN 2014 BY NELLIE KAMRAS,

this Scandinavian brand creates

seasonal collections and has

become synonymous for producing

delicate leather, wool and faux-fur pieces

for style-savvy women. This fun and fabulous

contemporary ‘Nani’ jacket, in a neutral

checkerboard pattern, is cut in a relaxed fit

and will surely become a wardrobe staple

for the lucky lady who receives it. GBP 499

www.standstudio.com


SHOPPING

VERTEX M60C

AQUALION DC

DIVE WATCH

DESIGNED IN GB AND BUILT IN

Switzerland, Vertex’s sexy new DLCcoated

M60C takes its inspiration

from the historic brand’s original

1950s and 1960s dive watches, updated with

a state-of-the-art spec that surpasses the

Swiss ISO 6425 rating. Water resistant to 600

metres, the same exacting design that makes

the M60C waterproof to any depth also

makes the watch robust enough to withstand

almost anything thrown at it. The M60C is an

elegant but practical gift for an active

yet unpretentious man. GBP 2,940

www.vertex-watches.com

STUDIO ARHOJ

INCENSE BURNER

THE GLAZE ON THIS ‘SMOKE MOUNTAIN’

mini volcano incense burner by Studio Arhoj is

named after the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruptions

in Iceland that caused enormous disruption to

air travel across Western Europe. Hand-thrown in pitch

black clay, it can handle incense sticks, blocks and

pyramids, all of which will fill your house with a festive

scent over Christmas.

GBP 56 https://coloursmayvary.com

GLOBE-TROTTER

CENTENARY

C A R R Y - O N

SYNONYMOUS WITH THE

golden age of travel, the iconic

Globe-Trotter luggage brand has

been established since 1897 and many

of its designs remain largely unchanged

to this day. Every piece is still handmade

to order. In celebration of a suitcase that

has become one of the most recognisable

in the world, the Centenary Collection

includes a covetable 4-wheeled carry-on

which is ideal for a weekend away and is

accepted by most airlines in the cabin.

GBP 1,495 www.globe-trotter.com


129

SHOPPING

ASSOULINE IBIZA

BOHEMIA BOOK

THE BALEARIC ‘WHITE ISLE’ HAS

served as an escape for artists,

creatives, and musicians for decades

and many have reinvented themselves

on the island. This beautiful coffee table book is

filled with photos, quotes and anecdotes curated

by fashion stylist and editor Renu Kashyap and

travel writer Maya Boyd, and explores everything

from the legendary magnetic rock of Es Vedrà

to Ibiza’s decadent nightlife, with a hippie-chic

bohemian vibe at the book’s core.

GBP 70 www.net-a-porter.com/en-gb

VIDA GLOW MARINE

COLLAGEN

VIDA GLOW’S HARD-WORKING INGESTIBLE BEAUTY

supplements start below the surface to promote firm,

youthful-looking skin, thick hair and strong nails and

support the natural ageing process. Clinically proven

to smooth fine lines and wrinkles and enhance skin elasticity,

these one-a-day sachets are flavourless so they can be mixed

into any food or drink and absorbed on-the go to glow as you

travel the globe. GBP 39 https://uk.vidaglow.com

SUMMERHILL &

BISHOP GLASS

BUMBA JUG

AVAILABLE IN A VARIETY OF

colours and perfect for preparing

and serving drinks, no two of this gorgeous

and versatile 3-litre white-rimmed jug are the

same because they are handblown exclusively

for Summerhill & Bishop in the South of France.

Matching glasses are also available.

GBP 255 www.summerhillandbishop.com


KNOCKOUT UNDIES & NIGHTWEAR

www.british-boxers.com

SANGRE DE FRUTA

TRAVEL COLLECTION

WITH DEEP RESPECT FOR THE WONDROUS LIFEFORCE OF

all living things, Sangre de Fruta’s exquisite botanicals are

sustainably sourced and handcrafted in small batches to create sensory

potions that nurture, protect and meaningfully connect people and nature.

For those travelling near or far, this organically produced capsule collection

features a range of heavenly and indulgent travel elixirs for the face, body

and hair. USD 100 www.sangredefruta.com

FORTNUM AND MASON

BALLOON BAUBLE

‘THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS CORNER SHOP’

remains an essential destination for those in search

of extraordinary food and tantalising treats that

universally cheer up the lucky recipients. Inspired

by Fortnum’s globaltrotting hot air balloon, this cute bauble

in the brand’s signature colours deserves pride of place on

the Christmas tree and will surely become a family heirloom.

GBP 21.95 www.fortnumandmason.com

SEVENTY ONE GIN

CREATED BY LEGENDARY FASHION

photographer and artist Mert Alas and

made with the finest botanicals, every

small batch of SEVENTY ONE gin is

touched by the rare flower from the Queen of the

Night cactus before resting for 71 nights in a mix

of virgin Spanish oak casks, ex Pedro Ximenes

sherry casks and ex-cognac casks, allowing the

hand-picked botanicals to gently marry and imbuing

the spirit with an amber glow. Released in limited

batches, SEVENTY ONE is the perfect gift for a gin

aficionado. GBP 168 www.seventyonegin.com


SHOPPING

ADEELA SALEHJEE

LONDON SCARF

FOUNDED IN LONDON IN 2016, ADEELA

Salehjee specialises in versatile, modern and

timeless pieces with a focus on working with

natural fibres. This elegant and super soft,

degrade-dyed three-colour woven 100% cashmere

scarf will make an ideal gift for a professional friend

who appreciates quality. Available in a range of

colours. GBP 145 www.adeelasalehjee.com

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE

MUSC RAVAGEUR

BORN IN PARIS IN 1962 TO A FAMILY IN THE

perfume industry, Frédéric Malle is the man

behind the niche fragrance house Editions

de Parfums Frédéric Malle, which was

founded in 2000 to feature the name of the perfumer

on the packaging of each scent. At the time, this was

a first in the industry. Created by perfumer Maurice

Roucel, Musc Ravageur is an oriental fragrance

different from all others in its explosive combination

of bergamot, mandarin and cinnamon against a

languorous background of vanilla, musk and amber.

An elegantly indulgent fragrance for both sexes.

EUR 210 www.fredericmalle.co.uk

LEATHEROLOGY

LAPTOP SLEEVE

DESIGNED TO LAST FOR YEARS,

Leatherology uses high-quality

materials and incorporates thoughtful details

to elevate everyday classic designs with simple

silhouettes. Beautifully minimal, this chic laptop

case is made from full grain leather, has a

lightly padded interior lined in microfibre and

can be personalised by Leatherology’s in-house

artists using trapunto, deboss or hand painting

techniques. USD 95 www.leatherology.com


133

SHOPPING

COCOON&ME CHITA

BAG MACRAMÉ KIT

COCOON&ME WORKS WITH PLANET

friendly materials such as cotton and jute

and uses macramé, crochet and knitting

to celebrate the therapeutic benefits of

hand crafting. For someone with a creative spirit,

this kit to make an eye-catching and eco-friendly

macramé ‘Chita’ bag comes with step-by-step photo

instructions and access to a 30-minute video tutorial.

GBP 64 www.cocoonandme.com

SLIP PURE SILK

SLEEP MASK

MADE FROM THE HIGHEST-GRADE

long fibre mulberry silk, this awardwinning

cult sleep mask was specially

commissioned to exacting standards

and refined over a decade to provide the ultimate

combination of shine, softness and durability.

Available in a range of colours, this mask is the

perfect present for a globetrotting friend who

likes to sleep on long-haul flights. GBP 50

www.slipsilkpillowcase.co.uk

SWEET WILLIAM

DOG WALKER

REVIVAL KIT

BRIMMING WITH BRITISH WIT

and Inspired by the brand’s

founder Emma Wood’s black Labrador,

William, this cute gift set contains a range of

luxuries to revive a dog walker, including

a luxurious hand cream. Strictly for humans

and not our four-legged friends, this kit is

the perfect gift to pamper a dog owner.

GBP 50 www.sweetwilliamdesigns.com


LITTLE BLACK BOOK

WEB ADDRESSES FOR EVERY DESTINATION AND VENUE MENTIONED

IN ISSUE 40 OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE

INDEX

AALBERGO

➤ https://albergobeirut.com

ANDBEYOND GRUMETI

SERENGETI RIVER LODGE

➤ www.andbeyond.com

AOÛT GALLERY

➤ https://aoutgallery.com

ARIA HOTEL BUDAPEST

➤ www.ariahotelbudapest.com

B

BAHIA PALACE

➤ https://bahia-palace.com

BUDA CASTLE

➤ https://budacastlebudapest.com

BUDAPEST’S BRIDGES

➤ www.bridgesofbudapest.com

CCALI MYKONOS

➤ www.calimykonos.com

CASTLE ELVIRA

➤ www.castleelvira.com

D

DIA MRA

➤ www.diamrad.com

DOHÁNY STREET SYNAGOGUE

➤ www.dohany-zsinagoga.hu

FFAIRMONT ROYAL PALM

MARRAKECH

➤ www.fairmont.com/

marrakech

FINNJÄVEL SALONKI

➤ https://finnjavel.fi/en/

GGELLERT THERMAL BATHS

➤ www.gellertbath.hu

HHARASZTHY WINERY

➤ https://haraszthy.hu

HOTEL MARCEL

➤ www.hotelmarcel.com

HUNGARIAN PARLIAMENT

➤ www.parlament.hu

HUNGARIAN STATE OPERA

➤ www.opera.hu

IISSEY MIYAKE

➤ www.isseymiyake.com/eN

JJARDIN MAJORELLE

➤ www.jardinmajorelle.com

JOE SOKHN

➤ https://joesokhn.darkroom.

com

KKEMPINSKI SUMMERLAND

HOTEL & RESORT

➤ www.kempinski.com

LLÁNG BISTRO

➤ www.langbistro.hu

LANZERAC ESTATE

➤ https://lanzerac.co.za

MMARGUERITE

➤ https://marguerite.com.sg

MARUFUKURO

➤ https://marufukuro.com

MATILD PALACE

➤ www.matildpalace.com

MATTHIAS CHURCH

➤ www.matyas-templom.hu

MENARA GARDENS

➤ www.jardin-menara.com

MIHÁLY KOLODKO

➤ https://kolodkoart.com

MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS,

BUDAPEST

➤ www.szepmuveszeti.hu

MUSICHALL

➤ www.themusichall.com

PPATINA MALDIVES

➤ https://patinahotels.com

RRAFFLES DOHA

➤ www.rafflesdoha.com

RAFFLES THE PALM

➤ www.rafflesthepalmdubai.

com

RAFFLES SINGAPORE

➤ www.rafflesingapore.com

RAMI RIZK

➤ www.rami-rizk.com

SSCANDIC GRAND CENTRAL

➤ www.scandichotels.com

SFINX BAR, BUDAPEST

➤ https://sfinxbar.com

SON NET

➤ www.sonnet.es

ST. STEPHEN’S BASILICA

➤ www.bazilika.biz

SZIMPLA KERT

➤ https://szimpla.hu

T

THE MADRID EDITION

➤ www.editionhotels.com

THE RITZ-CARLTON, AMMAN

➤ www.ritzcarlton.com

THE SILK VALLEY

➤ https://thesilkvalley.com

THE SUNSEEKER

➤ www.thesunseeker.com.au


suite with a view

CROWN TOWER SUITE

➤ MATILD PALACE, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY

IT IS ON ONE OF BUDAPEST’S

grand thoroughfares that you’ll

find the latest addition to the

Hungarian capital’s collection of luxury hotels,

Matild Palace.

Built in 1900 during the Belle Epoque era at

the behest of Her Imperial and Royal Highness

Maria Klotild of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, the hotel

occupies one of a pair of identical palaces that were

designed to act as a grand gateway when entering

the Pest side of the city using the then new

Elisabeth Bridge.

Atop Matild Palace, occupying a lovingly

restored tower of some fifty metres in height, the

hotel’s unique Crown Tower Suite is spread over

three floors and includes a living room, bedroom,

lavish bathroom and cocktail lounge. The suite is

crowned by a viewing room, set high within the

tower, which offers spectacular 360-degree views of

Budapest. www.matildpalace.com


WINTER IN HELSINKI, LÖYLY STYLE

An architectural sauna complex in the heart of the Finnish capital on the

edge of the Baltic Sea, Löyly was name-checked by Time magazine

as one of the World’s 100 Greatest Places.

Follow us @loylyhelsinki

www.loylyhelsinki.fi

HOTELS THAT DEFINE

THE DESTINATION

©2020 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. All names, marks and logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

Stay in an authentic, 1902 Belle Epoque Hungarian palace,

lovingly reimagined as a 21st century hospitality heaven

and Budapest’s newest luxury hotel star.

EXPLORE THE DESTINATION AT WWW.MATILDPALACE.COM

(40) The Cultured Traveller, December 2022-February 2023 Issue 40

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