(39) The Cultured Traveller - Eighth Anniversary Edition, September-November 2022 Issue 39

E I G H T H A N N I V E R S A R Y E D I T I O N

➤ ISSUE 39

SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022

UK £10 EU €10

Cairo

WHERE THE ANCIENT & MODERN COLLIDE

KOSRAE ISLAND ➤ PAUL VAN DYK ➤ RAFFLES SINGAPORE

SHEKU KANNEH-MASON ➤ SHINTA MANI WILD

VIENNA’S FOOD SCENE ➤ BIBLIA CHORA

EIGHTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION

ISSUE 39 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022

highlights

48 AN ANCIENT CAPITAL FULL OF NEW SURPRISES

The wonders of ancient Egypt have mesmerised the world for centuries, but travellers typically only stop in its capital for a few

days before fleeing to the Red Sea or Valley of the Kings. Offering so much more than pyramids and antiquities, Dawn Gibson-

Fawcett explores the vibrant city of CAIRO.

96 MICRONESIA’S NATURAL JEWELLERY BOX

The easternmost of the Caroline Islands, KOSRAE is bedecked with mangrove forests and fringed by sandy beaches looking

towards reefs where coral gardens are home to an array of marine life. Samantha Henderson visits this eco island delight.

106 ITALY’S RUSTIC LAKESIDE NEWCOMER

Tucked between Lake Como and Lake Garda and oozing authentic Italian charm, Emily Millett ventures to Northern Italy to explore

the pre-alpine landscapes of LAKE ISEO and VAL CAMONICA.

124 VEGETARIAN CHIC IN THE HEART OF PARIS

In Europe’s gastronomic capital, Nicholas Chrisostomou discovers that the coming together of a high-end fitness club and vibrant

new bar and Israeli vegetarian restaurant TEKÉS is a Parisian lifestyle marriage made in heaven.

46 SPEND FOUR DAYS IN SPELLBINDING RAJASTHAN

Set on a private island in the middle of a lake and evocative of a grand country estate, one of our lucky readers will enjoy first class

hospitality at RAFFLES UDAIPUR, including half board for two, airport transfers and Raffles’ renowned butler service.

Pyramid of Khafre, Giza, Egypt

4

ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022

96

29

124

43

131

8 CONTRIBUTORS

CONTENTS

10 EDITOR’S LETTER

12 NEWSFLASH

Around the world, on almost every

day of every month of every year, a

fascinating cultural event, unusual

tradition or exciting festival is afoot.

During the coming months, Venice’s

canals will be filled with antique

boats and sumptuous gondolas crewed

by sailors in period regalia for the

extravagant REGATA STORICA

DI VENEZIA; male Saharan clan

members will paint their faces and don

ceremonial costumes to impress female

judges in a bid to be named the most

attractive clansman at CURE SALÉE;

the world’s only alpine crane species

will be celebrated in a picturesque

Bhutanese valley during the BLACK-

NECKED CRANE FESTIVAL, and

thousands of macaque monkeys will

descend on the historic Khmer temple

of Prang Sam Yot north of Bangkok,

for Thailand’s annual LOPBURI

MONKEY BANQUET.

26 REST YOUR HEAD

In the Eighth Anniversary Edition of

The Cultured Traveller, the team checksout

a dozen new hospitality offerings

around the world, including one of

Helsinki’s most storied hotels, which

was also the city’s tallest building for

45 years, HOTEL TORNI; perched atop

Bairro Alto’s main hill in the very heart

of Lisbon, new boutique hotel PALÁCIO

LUDOVICE was once the private residence

of João Frederico Ludovice, 18th century

royal architect to Portuguese King João V;

incredible SIX SENSES FORT BARWARA

is housed within the solid stone walls of

a massive 700-year-old Indian fort, 100

kilometres from Jaipur. And embodying a

colourful past spanning 100 years, recently

unveiled 60-room ON RESIDENCE hotel

is positioned directly on Thessaloniki’s

iconic waterfront.

66 FIVE MINUTES WITH

Superstar DJ and record producer PAUL

VAN DYK, who has twice been named

the world’s best DJ, chats to The Cultured

Traveller about his early career and

forthcoming new studio album.

34

66

68

106

68 SUITE ENVY

Cantilevered over the raging Timor Rung

River in the shadow of the Cardamoms

in Southwest Cambodia, Nicholas

Chrisostomou revels in the regalness of

a unique luxury tented suite at SHINTA

MANI WILD, which harks back to the

days of Khmer rule.

78 SKY BRIEF

For the first time in years courtesy of the

pesky pandemic, The Cultured Traveller

rounds-up notable global AIR TRAVEL

NEWS.

84 BOARDING PASS

The Cultured Traveller takes to the skies,

from Helsinki to Singapore, to experience

FINNAIR's new AirLounge business

class.

88 HOSPITALITY ICON

Named after the founder of Singapore

and one of the city-state’s most historic

properties, RAFFLES SINGAPORE is

a hospitality grand dame. A truly iconic

hotel, Nicholas Chrisostomou explores

her storied past and basks in her colonial

splendour.

116 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

Catapulted to global fame after winning

BBC Young Musician and performing

at Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s

wedding, celebrated 23-year-old cellist,

SHEKU KANNEH-MASON talks to

The Cultured Traveller about growing

up in Nottingham and race issues within

classical music.

128 TASTE & SIP FOOD SCENE

The Cultured Traveller team discovers

that Austria’s grand capital of VIENNA

boasts a thriving food scene, teeming

with a range of restaurants serving

thoughtfully reimagined Viennese fare.

138 TASTE & SIP EXPERIENCE

Nicholas Chrisostomou travels to the

little known Pangaion Hills mountain

range in Northern Greece to visit one

of the country’s greatest oenological

treasures, the winery of BIBLIA CHORA.

145 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured

in the Eighth Anniversary Edition of

The Cultured Traveller.

146 TRAVEL TIPS

Travel addict, seasoned globetrotter

and founder and editor-in-chief of

The Cultured Traveller, Nicholas

Chrisostomou finally shares his

travel tips.

88

116

138

46

84

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

7

DAWN GIBSON-FAWCETT

➤ CITY FOCUS ON CAIRO

Dawn is a professional writer and editor who has

visited more than 30 countries and lived on four

continents. She is equally at home indulging in

Michelin-starred cuisine at a chic European eatery,

scuba diving in the Red Sea and exploring the

mysteries of ancient religious sites in Asia.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHER STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Dawn Gibson-Fawcett, Emily Millett

Samantha Henderson, Howard Healy

WITH THANKS TO

Lee Sutton - Dynamic PR, Urban Rebel PR

Ilaria Tortora - DOC-COM, Fox Comms.

Raffles Hotels & Resorts, Universal Music

CONTRIBUTORS

EMILY MILLETT

➤ SPOTLIGHT ON LAKE ISEO

Born into a family of avid world travellers, Emily has

had a nomadic spirit for as long as she can remember.

Former editor of TTG MENA Luxury and now a travel

writer, Emily contributes to a number of in-flight

magazines and high-end publications from her bases

in London and Nicosia.

SAMANTHA HENDERSON

➤ ISLAND HOPPING ON KOSRAE

Travelling is a passion, hobby and way of life for

Sam. She has lived in many countries, is multilingual

and is a pro at setting-up home in foreign

climes. In 2006, Sam ventured round the world

via Canada, the United States, Western Samoa,

New Zealand and Australia. Sam is currently

running a hotel in South Africa with her family.

The Cultured Traveller

is published by Coco Latté

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries:

ads@theculturedtraveller.com

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Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com


➤ ISSUE 39

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The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions,

but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles,

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COCO LATTÉ

5 MERCHANT SQUARE

LONDON W2 1AY

UK

8 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022

An enchanted village, with surrounding vineyards and olive

trees and the serenade of the South of France’s eternal cicadas.

Deep in the Provençal hills, five-star nights tinged with

the heady fragrance of lavender and pine. Relish the balmy Mediterranean

breeze whispering across your skin, treat your taste-buds to

flavour at its finest, and step into a dream world enclosed within the

sun-baked walls of a luxury hotel and spa in Provence.

coquillade.fr

+33 (0) 490 74 71 71 | reservations@coquillade.fr

Coquillade Provence Resort & Spa

Provence, France

From left to right: Kosrae;

Cairo; Peschiera Maraglio, Lake Iseo;

Shinta Mani Wild

EDITOR’S LETTER

A BIRTHDAY, OR ANY

anniversary really, is

generally cause for some sort

of celebration. Writing about

eight years of The Cultured

Traveller seemed like an

unreachable goal not so long

ago in 2020. How things have

thankfully changed since then

and most of us are travelling

again today. And, for the most

part, certainly in Europe

anyway, the restrictions of the

past few years have passed

and flying between countries

is a pretty painless experience. As travellers, we

have an awful lot to thank

the vaccine for.

NOW THAT CORONAVIRUS TRAVEL

requirements have greatly relaxed, it’s time to

discover new destinations never seen before or

journey to places that feel a bit like an adventure.

Pre-pandemic, I propagated an unwritten rule

to visit two new countries every year. The pesky

virus put pay to that, of course. But I have

recently reintroduced it, and so I’m now positively

encouraging everyone to venture to places they

haven’t visited before, for it is this kind of travel

which most fascinates and enamors.

IN THIS LANDMARK ISSUE, DAWN GIBSON

gives us her insider tips to navigate one of the

world’s largest cities. Too often used as a steppingstone

by tourists, modern Cairo is a mesmerising

melting pot and seriously worthy of a dedicated

city-break (page 48). On the other side of the world,

Sam Henderson visits the Micronesian island of

Kosrae in the Western Pacific, where mangroves,

coral gardens, lush forests

and sandy beaches enchant

her family (page 96). Emily

Millett investigates a gorgeous,

unspoilt alpine valley in

Northern Italy, surrounding

Lake Iseo, which hasn’t yet

been overrun by tourists like

its bigger neighbours (page 106).

And I literally zip-line into a

unique Bill Bensley-designed

15-tent resort, set along a

1.5 kilometre stretch of the

raging Thmor Rung River in

southwest Cambodia, in the

shadow of the Cardamom Mountains (page 68). I

told you that it’s time for some adventure!

AS WITH EVERY ISSUE, OUR EIGHTH

Anniversary Edition also contains a NewsFlash

event round-up, interviews and foodie features,

plus we check-out a dozen standout new hotels

and resorts around the globe. You can even win a

stay at Raffles’ magnificent palace-like property

in magical Udaipur, India’s city of lakes (page 46).

SINCE THE SKIES HAVE COMPLETELY

re-opened for business, use The Cultured

Traveller to help you find the right places to go,

the best hotels to check-in to and the coolest new

destinations to discover on this incredible planet

of ours.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief


HOTELS THAT DEFINE

THE DESTINATION

©2020 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. All names, marks and logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

Stay in an authentic, 1902 Belle Epoque Hungarian palace,

lovingly reimagined as a 21st century hospitality heaven

and Budapest’s newest luxury hotel star.

EXPLORE THE DESTINATION AT WWW.MATILDPALACE.COM

news

FASCINATING CULTURAL EVENTS AND OUTSTANDING FESTIVALS HAPPENING AROUND

THE WORLD

IN THE COMING MONTHS

REGATA STORICA

DI VENEZIA

BRAEMAR GATHERING

ROUTINELY ATTENDED evolved into something of a Scottish rite of

by members of the

passage. The caber toss is considered by

British Royal family,

many to be Scotland’s signature event and

these old military

sees logs of more than a dozen feet long

exercises remain the same as they have

carried by hulking men and women. Other

for hundreds of years yet have grown into more inventive ways of pitting man against

a worldwide exhibition. Everything from

man include the Maide Leisg, which sees

traditional tug-of-wars and caber-tossing two men sitting on the ground with the soles

to dance competitions and solo bagpipe

of their feet pressed against each other.

performances are used to determine the

Holding a stick between their hands, they pull

skill, prowess and endurance of those

back and forth until one of them raises off

competing. Often divided into categories

the ground.

of heavyweight competition, dance and

3 September 2022

music, the burly strongman events have

www.braemargathering.org

WHILST VENICE’S

colourful carnival may be

the city’s most famous

annual event, devoted fans

of La Serenissima never miss the Regata Storica.

Dating back to the 13th century, this intensely

historical regatta takes place on the first Sunday

of September each year and is an opportunity to

see the city’s iconic waterways as they might

have looked when Venice ruled the seas, and

Venetian artists like Canaletto immortalised

Venice in paintings. Often led by an ornate,

historical boat, also known as a bissona, a regal

water procession kicks off the regatta at 4pm,

starting in the waters off St. Mark’s Square and

ending at the gothic palace of Ca’ Foscari.

Consisting of a flotilla of antique boats,

elaborate bissone and sumptuous gondolas,

complete with sailors and passengers sporting

period costume, this extravagant spectacle is an

incredible sight to behold. University crews from

different countries also compete in a captivating

event, racing in eight-oared galleons.

4 September 2022

www.regatastoricavenezia.it/en


NEWSFLASH

ONAM

KERALA IS DEFINED BY

its varied and layered

landscape, including hundreds

of kilometres of coastline and

beaches fringed by the Arabian Sea. Having been

exposed to so many foreign influences, it’s a world

away from the rest of India and boasts a unique

culture and diverse religious traditions. According to

popular legend, Onam harvest festival is celebrated

to welcome King Mahabali, whose spirit is said to visit

Kerala at the beginning of Chingam, the first month of

the Hindu Malayalam calendar. This is a time when,

after three months of heavy rains, the skies clear and

turn blue, forests become a lush, deep green, lakes

and rivers overflow and lotuses and lilies are in full

bloom. People put flower mats in front of their houses

to welcome the king, reap the harvest, celebrate and

generally rejoice. Traditional activities during Onam

are centered around worshipping, music, dancing,

sports and, above all else, eating, the most

impressive part of the festival being a grand, 26-dish

feast called Sadya.

8 September 2022

www.onamfestival.org

GOLDEN EAGLE

FESTIVAL

BAYAN-ULGII IS A

far-off land of

mountains, torrents and

glaciers in the extreme

west of Mongolia, inhabited by the minority

Kazakh people who herd yaks and goats and

hunt with trained eagles. The culture of the

Kazakhs is different from the Mongols.

Running for more than two decades,

Mongolia’s annual Golden Eagle Festival

showcases Kazakhstani culture of the world

and promotes Kazakh heritage to new

generations. Organised by the Mongolian

Eagle Hunters’ Association, despite this

festival being held in a pretty hard to reach

location, where the country borders Russia,

China and Kazakhstan, it often attracts a large

number of tourists and photographers, for up

to eighty eagle hunters come together to

participate in this unique two-day event. Adept

at falconry, the hunters test their skills by

comparing their birds’ accuracy in a variety of

different tournaments relating to Golden

Eagles, which are some of the largest, fastest

and nimblest raptors on earth.

17-18 September 2022


13

CURE SALÉE

A male member of a Saharan clan – with

a painted face and wearing ceremonial

costume – is ready to impress the female judges in

a bid to be named the most attractive man of his

clan at this annual tribal gathering, harvest festival,

marketplace and, most importantly, unique male

beauty parade.


14

ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022

NEWSFLASH

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 15

OKTOBERFEST

DRINK BEER BY THE

LITRE, feast on traditional

Bavarian foods, be

entertained by live bands

and carouse away the days and nights with

thousands of other revellers from all over the

globe at the world’s largest volksfest, held

annually in Munich, Bavaria’s capital.

Oktoberfest is a 16-day folk festival running

from mid-September through to the first

weekend of October held in the Theresienwiese

area (often called the Wiesn for short) located

close to Munich’s city centre. The

Schottenhamel tent is the place to be if you

want to catch the official opening ceremony on

17th September, since it is here, at 12 noon, that

the Mayor of Munich taps the first keg of

Oktoberfest beer. Now in its 187th year, the

festival is spread over 35 hectares with dozens

of beer tents and a massive fairground including

the largest transportable rollercoaster in the

world, Olympia Looping, with five full inversions!

17 September - 3 October 2022

www.oktoberfest.de/en

ANIMASYROS

DESPITE BEING ONE

of the smallest Cycladic

islands, Syros’

international animation

festival is the largest of its kind in Greece and

one of the twenty most important globally.

Wholly dedicated to Europe’s animation

narrative, Animasyros is held in Hermoupolis,

the picturesque capital of the Cycladic

islands, which offers the perfect mix of typical

Greek island beauty and a variety of Hellenic

culture (pictured). The festival comprises

special screenings, tributes to international

animation festivals, artists and studios, media

literacy activities for children, youngsters and

adults, parties and numerous parallel events.

This year – the Animasyros’ fifteenth outing

– the festival expands its program for an extra

day and is dedicated to highlighting the

innovative animation scenes that are

flourishing in the Baltic countries of Estonia,

Lithuania and Latvia. Also for 2022, seven

competition sections have been added and

an industry event offers various networking

opportunities which focus on the countries of

the East Mediterranean region.


www.animasyros.gr


NEWSFLASH

NEW YORK CITY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL

BORN IN 2007 AS A

one-nighter called SWEET, the

New York City Wine and Food

Festival (NYCWFF) is

considered to be the largest foodie gathering in the

state, featuring more than 80 events providing

something for every palate. NYCWFF is widely

recognised for its tasting events that celebrate

America’s favourite foods, intimate dinners with

world-famous chefs, late night parties, hands-on

classes, educational seminars and coveted wine

tastings. Driving the festival is a commitment to

support New York’s leading provider of lifesustaining

meals and nutrition counselling, God’s

Love We Deliver. Over the course of the festival’s

four days and offering a diverse range of dishes

and culinary experiences at a range of price

points across New York City, culinary giants,

celebrity chefs, mixologists, vintners and foodies

from around the globe unite to eat and drink with

100% of the festival’s proceeds going to hunger

relief organisations.

13-16 October 2022

www.nycwff.org

BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL

HELD EVERY YEAR IN

mid-October since 1956,

showcasing exceptional

British filmmaking

alongside international work, the 2022 BFI

London Film Festival’s programme spans

features, shorts, fiction, documentary, artists’

moving images, restorations, animation and

films for families, as well as a number of titles

destined for awards-season glory. The 66th

outing of this much celebrated movie fest will

present a wide array

of features over 9 days in more than a dozen

venues, representing a variety of languages,

genres and filmmaking styles. The huge

schedule of events, the quantity of films shown

as well as the large number of creators in

attendance make this festival one of the most

important of its kind

in Europe. Every film is presented with an

introduction or Q&A session and the programme

also includes a range of free-to-access

additional works and events including screen

talks with major filmmakers and actors.

5-16 October 2022

www.bfi.org.uk/lff

FRANKFURTER BUCHMESSE

PEDRO’S FIRMLY

established as one of

the most important

events in the global

literary calendar, thousands of publishers,

authors, retailers, illustrators, librarians and

multimedia suppliers from around the globe

converge on the German powerhouse city of

Frankfurt for its annual book fair to

exchange information, launch books and

negotiate the sale of international publishing

rights. This year, the festival is exploring

new ways for people to talk to each other

and exchange information and cultures

across borders, with literary works being

interpreted and adapted into other

languages, different media and new

contexts, thus opening new doors and

creating fresh perspectives. And for 2022,

the book fair’s guest nation is Spain, with

visitors encountering the country’s enormous

range of literature in Frankfurt, from fiction to

poetry, children’s books to comics and

essays to audio books, including the unique

literatur that hails from the Catalan, Galician

and Basque language regions.

19-23 October 2022

www.buchmesse.de


17


NEWSFLASH

PHUKET

VEGETARIAN

FESTIVAL

Many participants in Phuket’s

annual vegetarian festival perform

ritualised mutilation upon themselves and one

another, without anesthetic but while under a

trance-like state, including piercing their mouths,

cheeks, ears and arms in dramatic fashion.



19

DIWALI

FESTIVALS FORM AN integral part

of India’s culture and are at the

heart of people’s day-to-day lives

across the vast nation. The

country’s biggest annual celebration of Diwali –

commonly referred to as The Festival of Lights – is an

ancient five-day festival celebrated on the 15th day of

the Hindu month of Kartika. It marks the victory of light

over darkness, hope over despair, and the freedom of

Guru Hargobind Ji from imprisonment in 1619 by Mughal

Emperor Jahangir, who at the same time released 52

political prisoners from Gwalior Fort. Hence, Diwali is

the cause for much reverence and nationwide good

cheer. An important tradition in India, participants

clean their homes before the festival and celebrate

with friends and family by sharing food and exchanging

gifts. At night, houses are lit with electric lights,

candles, lamps and torches and numerous fireworks

are set-off, providing spectacular displays that

symbolise the awareness of inner light and the triumph

of good over evil.

24 October 2022

STRAWBERRY

FIELDS

FOUNDED IN 2009, STRAWBERRY

Fields is held in a beautiful Murray

River site in Tocumwal, a New

South Wales town in Yorta Yorta

Country on the Victorian border. Over three days,

Strawberry Fields celebrates the finest music of the

present day, complete with art installations, market

stalls and workshops, whilst respecting the ancestors

and elders of the people of Tocumwal and Berrigan

Shire where the festival is held. Visitors are invited to

arrive on the Thursday to secure the best camping

sites and mark the start of the festival at a party that

night, before embarking on days of adventures which

include exploring music in all its forms and discovering

new grooves across five stages set on the banks of the

river. Live jazz quartets play alongside musical

legends, disco DJs and emerging new artists, laying

down everything from techno and house to hip-hop,

funk and experimental sounds, making Strawberry

Fields a veritable musical carnival for those lucky

enough to attend.

28–30 October 2022

www.strawberry-fields.com.au


NEWSFLASH

BARRILETES

GIGANTES

FESTIVAL

WHILST MANY

countries worldwide

mark the Christian

festival of All

Saints’ Day with family gatherings and

silent prayers, Guatemala’s residents

transform their country into a land of

colour with their Barriletes Gigantes

festival, which translates to “giant kites”

in English. Dating back to the pre-

Colombian era, before the arrival of

European influences on the American

continent, this traditional festival is a

year-long endeavour which takes place

in the towns of Sumpango and Santiago

Sacatepequez on the first day of

November annually. Made from thick

paper stretched over bamboo frames,

with some more than nine metres in

diameter, the enormous kites are

painted by hand throughout the year by

locals and flown over the graves of their

family members while flowers are

strewn on the ground below. With

dozens of kites on display, all promoting

peace and companionship for the living,

Barriletes Gigantes is a fascinating and

colourful festival to experience.

1 November 2022

VILLAGE HALLOWEEN PARADE

NEW YORK CITY’S ANNUAL

Halloween parade is

perhaps America’ wildest

public participatory event,

held in arguably one of the most vibrant and

diverse cities on the planet. Unlikely to

disappoint, the 49th annual Village Halloween

Parade promises to be as wild, colourful and

creative as ever and will see tens of thousands

of costumed party-goers parade through the

streets of the Big Apple. Founded almost fifty

years ago by master mask-maker and puppeteer

Ralph Lee, this year’s ghouls will be led by

puppeteers Alex Kahn and Sophia Michahelles

together with hundreds of puppets, dozens of

bands of varying musical styles, dancers, circus

performers and floats, all watched by a

multitude of spectators. The theme for 2022 is

“ALL Together NOW!”, with the organisers

inviting children to submit drawings that will be

turned into the giant puppets that lead the

parade.

31 October 2022

www.halloween-nyc.com


21


NEWSFLASH

HERMANUS

WHALE FESTIVAL

A few hours’ drive from Cape

Town, from June until early

December, the waters off the coast of the

South African seaside town of Hermanus

team with southern right whales mating,

calving and rearing their young, whilst giving

whale-watchers phenomenal displays of their

raw power and water acrobatics.



23

BLACK-NECKED

CRANE FESTIVAL

JAZZFEST BERLIN

INCREDIBLY POPULAR AS

A music destination for

both fans and artists alike,

Berlin is simply teeming

with musical variety. From jazz to opera and

everything in between, some of Berlin’s clubs

are open all weekend while many of its music

venues attract some of the biggest names.

Founded in 1964 in West Berlin by the Berliner

Festspiele and originally called the Berliner

Jazztage, JazzFest Berlin is an annual, globally

renowned jazz festival. Curated by Nadin

Deventer who strives to create an open and

diverse festival, which showcases established

and younger jazz artists with different musical

backgrounds, the festival collectively

celebrates the diverse styles of jazz music.

Increasingly presenting artists from all around

the globe, with an emphasis on contemporary

European jazz, gigs are held in Berlin’s

well-established jazz clubs across the city,

including Quasimodo and A-Trane, and often

sell-out so get your tickets early!

3-6 November 2022

www.berlinerfestspiele.de

CONSIDERED A SACRED

bird in Bhutan and the

only alpine crane species

in the world, the

black-necked crane is celebrated annually

during this unique festival, which takes place

in one of the county’s oldest and largest

Nyingmapa monasteries. Revered as a symbol

of longevity, every November, several hundred

cranes travel from their summer breeding

grounds on the Tibetan Plateau to this

picturesque Bhutanese valley to feed on the

dwarf bamboo that grows in its alpine

wetlands. An opportunity for the Bhutanese

to rejoice and celebrate the arrival of this

endangered and majestic bird – which

becomes an inseparable part of their daily

lives during the winter months – locals sing

folk songs and perform cultural dances

and conservation-themed dramas themed

around the environment and the protection

of the graceful cranes, whose presence is

believed to bring about bountiful harvests

and prosperity. Drawing an increasing

number of travellers, the one-day festival

also creates a valuable revenue stream for

Bhutanese residents.

11 November 2022

THAT LUANG

FESTIVAL

LAOS BOASTS LITERALLY

hundreds of Buddhist

monasteries, temples and

stupas. Located on the

north-eastern bank of the Mekong, Vientiane’s

relaxed atmosphere is something of a rarity

amongst the world’s capitals. Its grand stupa,

Pha That Luang was built over an ancient

stupa in the 16th century by King

Setthathirath, when he moved the capital

(pictured). It has since become the national

symbol of Laos and is profoundly revered by

all its countryfolk. Once a year for three days,

That Luang stupa is the focus of a three-day

religious festival celebrated at full moon in

November, beginning with a pre-dawn

gathering of thousands of pilgrims from Laos

and Thailand who listen to prayers and

sermons chanted by hundreds of monks all

representing Lao wats. There follows a grand

procession to pay homage to Lady Si Meuang,

who was crushed to death as the city’s

foundation pillar was about to be planted. The

procession ends with a giant firework display.

8 November 2022


NEWSFLASH

LOPBURI

MONKEY

BANQUET

AROUND THE SAME

time as America

celebrates

Thanksgiving, the

last Sunday of November is reserved

for the Lopburi Monkey Banquet which

is held north of Bangkok in central

Thailand’s provincial capital of Lopburi.

In this part of the world, countless

monkeys have adapted to life in an

urban environment and become an

inherent part of the local culture.

Despite their pick-pocketing tendencies

and unpredictable attitudes, these

fellow primates have free reign of the

metropolis and are welcome to enter

public buildings and traverse roads just

like any other citizen. And, once a year,

the world’s wildest dinner party is held

in honour of the city’s macaque

monkeys at the historic Khmer temple

of Prang Sam Yot. As you can imagine,

the sight of some three thousand

macaques tucking into a lavish feast

– which includes tons of fresh produce,

rice, ice cream and other tasty monkey

treats – is quite a spectacle.

27 November 2022

HIGANTES FESTIVAL

THE LOCATION OF

the Angono

Petroglyphs (the

country’s oldest

known work of art) and arguably the

arts capital of the Philippines, the town

of Angono has continuously attracted art

lovers from across the nation, not to

mention globally. The town particularly

comes alive every year during Higantes,

when towering colourfully-painted

papier-mâché giants, designed to express

a person’s character or a unique idea,

are paraded through Angono’s streets,

much to the joy of excited crowds.

According to locals, this practice began

when locals in Angono created a dummy

to portray a mean landlord who was best

recognised by his foul mannerisms and

imposing height. For globetrotters visiting

Angono, a detour to the Blanco Family

museum gives an insight to the origins

of this fascinating festival, including

a large collection of giant higantes

created by renowned higante designer

Argana Tori.


25

rest your


head

BEGINNING

WITH A HISTORIC HOTEL

IN HELSINKI, THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER CHECKS OUT TWELVE

SPECIAL NEW HOSPITALITY

OFFERINGS AROUND THE WORLD

➤ HELSINKI ➤ JUNAGADH ➤ LAKE BACALAR ➤ NEW YORK

➤ OKAVANGO DELTA ➤ CONCA DEI MARINI ➤ GENEVA ➤ LISBON

➤ PÉREZ ZELEDÓN ➤ IBIZA ➤ CHAUTH KA BARWARA ➤ THESSALONIKI

Six Senses Fort Barwara, Chauth Ka Barwara, India



SOLO SOKOS

HOTEL TORNI

EVERY YEAR SINCE 2012, THE SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT SOLUTIONS

Network (a global initiative for the United Nations), has used Galllup survey

data to determine the life satisfaction rankings of 150 different countries around the world.

Its findings are published in the World Happiness Report. Top of the list in 2022, for the fifth

consecutive year, was Finland.

Many Finns attribute their sense of contentment to how they use their time, the country’s

natural beauty, being surrounded by stunning scenery and connecting with nature as much

as possible. Indeed, it takes a lot to dissuade a Finn from swimming in the sea, even when it is

covered in ice. And during the summer months, Helsinki is alive with locals outside.

HELSINKI FINLAND

Putting the “H” into Happiness are the staff at Hotel Torni in Helsinki, who are naturally helpful

and hospitable from the get-go, when guests check into their landmark property.

Located in the centre of Kamppi in the middle of downtown Helsinki (an area which is now

known as the Design District), Hotel Torni was designed by architects Jung & Jung. It was

the city’s tallest building when it opened in 1931, not to mention the first in Finland to use

electricity throughout.

Torni remained Helsinki’s tallest building for 45 years, changing not only the cityscape

but also the city’s culture, as it became the favoured meeting place for many cultured Finns,

including composer Sibelius and Nobel literature prize winner Frans Eemil Sillanpää. The hotel

has also hosted politicians, international dignitaries and royals in its time.

During a renovation of Torni in the 1980s, the adjacent 1903 residential building, Kyllikki, was

incorporated into the hotel, added a garden space and more guest rooms.

Following decades of continuous service, Torni closed in 2018 for a comprehensive topto-bottom

renovation, the immense history of the building guiding the new interior design

concept.

The hotel reopened just a few months ago, brimming with restored architectural detailing and

glistening interiors, and The Cultured Traveller was invited to experience the new Torni.

One immediately feels a sense of history pulling-up in front of Torni, its tower

overshadowing the hotel’s main entrance, albeit a modest 13 storeys.

Inside, the refreshed lobby and reception areas delight with distinctive furnishings,

including some gorgeous statement pieces. All around, elegant new elements complement the

building’s original architecture.

A charming, restored Art Nouveau cage lift is supplemented by two new elevators to ensure

that guests don’t wait long to be transported to the hotel’s 150 tasteful rooms and suites.

Behind reception, a stunning domed skylight dominates the American Bar, complete

with original Paavo Tynell wall lighting discovered during the renovation. A decadent space

designed to enjoy hand-crafted cocktails, the bar is the perfect place to kick-off a night on the

town.

Occupying an entire floor one level down, on the corner of Yrjönkatu and Kalevankatu

streets, Restaurant OR is a stylish lounge, wine bar and brasserie all rolled-into one. Presided

over by the hotel’s talented head chef, Janne Kantola, the food served at OR is fresh,

contemporary and delicious, making the best use of the vast array of ingredients available in

Finland.

Crowning the hotel is the city's first rooftop bar, Ateljee. Spanning two floors and something

of a tourist attraction, begin your stay at Torni by taking in the panoramic views from Ateljee’s

terraces, while sipping a G&T made with a Finnish gin and garnished with rosemary and

cranberries.

Boasting splendid interiors, an impressive collection of Finnish art and original detailing in

every historic corner, to stay at new-look Hotel Torni is to be based in one of Helsinki’s best

locations while being surrounded by Finnish design and enjoying the happiest of service.

www.sokoshotels.fi/en


29

JUNAGADH INDIA

ARAMNESS GIR

LOCATED ABOUT 60 KILOMETRES FROM JUNAGADH IN

the Saurashtra region, surrounded by the Arabian Sea and

vast swathes of forest, Sasan Gir National Park is one of India's oldest

sanctuaries and covers an area of almost 1,500 square kilometres of the

Gujarat peninsula. Close to the towns of Junagadh and Amreli and often

known simply as Gir, the park was established to preserve the sole natural

habitat of the Asiatic lion. Yet as well as several hundred lions, Gir is home

to jungle, desert and rusty spotted cats, a healthy population of leopard and

a myriad of mammals including sloth bears, striped hyenas, golden jackals,

wild boars and Indian pangolins, not to mention at least 300 species of

birds. And because Gir was not always a national park, its animals and birds

uniquely co-exist with the remaining settlements of cattle herders.

Situated on the edge of this much lauded sanctuary, wildlife enthusiast

Jimmy Patel’s newest hospitality offering, Aramness Gir, is an Indian safari

lodge experience steeped in local culture, considerately designed to exude

authenticity and luxury in equal measure and provide its guests with an

up-close-and-personal opportunity to see Asiatic lions, as well as Gir's

extraordinary plethora of wildlife.

Skillfully designed by Johannesburg-based Fox Browne Creative, guests

are accommodated in 18 beautiful double-storey kothis, built by local

craftsmen using local materials including reclaimed stone and wood and set

within a village-style setting which is typical of this part of India. Distinctly

design-led and sophisticated using understated luxury and subtlety to

convey Aramness Gir's message, each one- or two-bedroom villa gives

its occupants a taste of authentic India within the wildlife context of its

surroundings.

When guests are not spotting lions or swimming a few laps in their

private, non-chlorinated pools (each villa has its own), they are most

probably dining al fresco on a fresh, local and daily changing menu of

authentic Kathiyawadi food, or enjoying a relaxing spa treatment using

products made from herbal ingredients and cold-pressed oils.

A complete off-the-grid experience providing everything one could

possibly want from an Indian safari, super luxe Aramness Gir is undoubtedly

fit for the Sultanate of Guzerat, who presided over this Indian kingdom seven

centuries ago.

www.ramness.com

30

LAKE BACALAR MEXICO

HABITAS BACALAR

SPANNING SOME 100 KILOMETRES ALONG THE MEXICAN

Caribbean coastline, running south from Puerto Morelos to

Tulum with Playa del Carmen in between, the Riviera Maya offers everything

from glamping and family-friendly resorts to sophisticated adults-only

enclaves and everything in between. Within this beautiful resort district

and located near Mexico's border with Belize, on the southern end of Los

Rapidos, narrow 42 kilometre Lake Bacalar is known locally as La Laguna de

los Siete Colores, or the seven colour lagoon. With a white limestone bottom

making its waters incredibly clear, this stunning multi-hued freshwater

lake offers holidaymakers the perfect habitat for swimming, diving and

snorkeling.

Located on the edge of the crystalline lake, holistic eco-oasis Habitas

Bacalar opened less than a year ago with a focus on conservation, complete

with an environmental program to help preserve the iconic lagoon. The

resort’s serene setting lends itself perfectly to the creation of tranquil

moments amid a sense of timelessness.

35 neutral and earthy A-frame cabanas either face the jungle, the

mangroves or the lake. Identical apart from the views, each is comfortable

and minimalist yet boasts a king-sized bed, comfy robes, fluffy towels,

panoramic windows and an outdoor shower.

Within the resort and presided over by supremely warm staff, a

restaurant with an open-air kitchen, a spa and wellness area and a

communal gathering space offer guests a wealth of opportunities to forge

a deeper connection with the planet via floating meditations, temazcal

ceremonies and suchlike. Habitas Bacalar also partners with a variety of

local businesses to offer a range of complimentary activities, including

sunrise paddleboarding, yoga lessons and guided meditations, enabling

guests to connect with the local community.

www.ourhabitas.com

IMAGES: TANVEER BADAL


AMAN NEW YORK

HISTORICALLY ONE OF THE MOST PRICEY MIXED-USE

properties in the United States, New York's landmark Crown

Building is positioned on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street in an

area known as Millionaire’s Row, mere steps from The Museum of Modern

Art, Radio City Music Hall and one of the world’s most famous shopping

districts. The first ever high-rise in the city and designed by Warren and

Wetmore – architects of some of New York’s most influential buildings,

including Grand Central Station – the historic 1921 Beaux-Arts building has

presided over Midtown Manhattan for more than a century.

Occupying all 25 storeys of the majestic Crown Building, Aman New York

opened last month following the building’s painstaking transformation into

a super-luxe hotel, including a grand double-height atrium on the 14th floor

and a three-storey 2,300 square metre spa.

The culmination of years of work, the 83-suite hotel and 22 residences

Spa, the hotel offers a variety of spaces for socialising and dining,

bring the peace promised by Aman’s Sanskrit-derived name to the heart of including Italian and Japanese restaurants, a wine library, a jazz club

the city that never sleeps, ushering in a new hospitality era in New York.

and a wraparound outdoor terrace offering spectacular midtown views,

Transporting guests away from the frenetic pace of the city below

complete with reflective pools and firepits.

into a world of hospitality chic and calm, as well as its flagship Aman

www.amannewyork.com

NEW YORK UNITED STATES

33

OKAVANGO DELTA BOTSWANA

DUKE'S CAMP

COVERING THOUSANDS OF KILOMETRES OF THE KALAHARI

Desert in Botswana, the Okavango Delta is home to some of the

world’s most endangered species of large mammal. Comprising permanent

marshlands and seasonally flooded plains, the entire delta is an exceptional

example of the natural interaction between climatic, hydrological and

biological processes and its wetland system is almost completely intact.

Located in the magical wilderness of the northern Okavango Delta, Duke’s

Camp began welcoming guests just a few months ago and is open yearround,

since each season offers its own unique character and opportunities

for adventure. Named after Sarefo ‘Duke’ Sarefo, who was born 80 years

ago on the very island that Duke's now occupies, the camp is pitched on

raised wooden decks beneath a canopy of ebony and leadwood trees.

Comprising a dozen deluxe tents exuding old world safari glamour and

yesteryear charm (4 of which will open in March 2023), each is a carefully

considered mix of African memorabilia, plush fabrics and vintage furniture.

Hand-carved four-posters take centre stage, accessorised by mahogany

sideboards, rich kilims and plush fabrics.

Guided by safari experts honed in the ways of the bush and the laws

of the Delta, guests discover the Okavango's wild landscapes by quietly

gliding through its watery channels, embarking on traditional game drives or

soaring over the incredible scenery in hot-air balloons.

At the end of the day, lavish dinners of delectable fare served on

antique silverware and fine wines served in crystal glasses provide the

IMAGES: KERRY DE BRUYN

perfect opportunity for guests to trade tales, sitting amidst cabinets

of African curiosities gathered over decades by Ralph Bousfield, son

of a crocodile hunter-turned animal conservationist and the creator of

Jack’s Camp.

www.naturalselection.travel


YOUR VERY OWN

LONDON

ADDRESS...

No.1 Great Scotland Yard

greatscotlandyard.com

3-5 Great Scotland Yard, London, United Kingdom, SW1A 2HN

CONCA DEI MARINI ITALY

BORGO SANTANDREA

SURROUNDED BY ORCHARDS AND PERCHED ON A HILL CLOSE

to the coast between Amalfi and Furore, in the Campania region

of south-western Italy, charming Conca dei Marini is something of an Italian

pearl. Once little more than a tiny fishing village, today Conca dei Marini is

one of the Amalfi Coast’s most exclusive destinations. Yet it is still home to

just a few hundred inhabitants, who either live in cottages set directly on the

beach, or in white houses tucked into the rock, like precious stones sculpted

into the cliffs. Rumour has it that Conca dei Marini was founded by the

Etruscans, who named it Cossa, before being conquered by the Romans.

Offering incredible views at every turn and top-notch service to match,

family-owned Borgo Santandrea was the first new luxury hotel to open on

this iconic coastline in 15 years.

A historic, standout property set on a cliff just above Conca Dei Marini,

its unique position gives it a special allure of its own. Over a period of 4

years, the former hotel’s original bones were reimagined by local Amalfitano

artisans to create an entirely new ultra-luxe hospitality experience.

Comprising just 29 guest rooms and 16 suites, each of which has access

to Borgo’s private beach, every room is a serene haven of peace and

tranquility bedecked in mid-century furniture and Italian objets d’arts. Floors

are laid in beautiful hand-painted tiles. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide

panoramic sea vistas. And 8 suites have private plunge pools.

Three restaurants cater to guests’ every culinary whim, including a

smart beach club serving casual fare in stylish surroundings and delivering

cocktails to thick-cushioned sun loungers.

IMAGE: UMBERTO D'ANIELLO

Rather than people watch (for which the Amalfi coast is renowned), to

stay at Borgo Santandrea is to enjoy the glorious views, five-star service

and wonderful food, and revel in a rare privacy in the heart of one of Europe’s

most exclusive destinations.

https://borgosantandrea.it


IMAGE: ADRIAN GAUT

THE WOODWARD

SITUATED ON THE SHORE OF ONE OF EUROPE'S LARGEST

freshwater lakes, its crystal-clear waters fed by melted snow

that comes directly from the Alps, the French-speaking Swiss city of Geneva

is completely surrounded by natural beauty.

One of the world’s most important centers for science and innovation, as

well as home to dozens of international organisations including the United

Nations and the International Red Cross, Geneva exudes stature and culture

throughout. And a trip to the city’s picturesque Old Town feels like stepping

back in time, its ancient maze of secret passages, narrow cobblestone

streets and picturesque squares brimming with inviting cafés, excellent

restaurants and enticing art galleries.

Positioned on Quai Wilson directly opposite Lake Geneva, offering

breathtaking views of the water, the city’s landmark jet d’eau and majestic

Mont Blanc beyond, The Woodward opened late last year and is The Oetker

Collection's first hotel in Switzerland.

Home to just 26 impressive suites designed by renowned French interior

designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, of which 21 face the lake, The Woodward

boasts the longest swimming pool in the city and a host of luxury leisure

facilities and premium dining options, including Geneva outposts of Le

Jardinier and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. And a private digestif and cigar

lounge deftly brings the building’s banking history into the present day via

the skillful transformation of a former vault.

www.oetkercollection.com

GENEVA SWITZERLAND

37

LISBON PORTUGAL

PALÁCIO LUDOVICE

DATING BACK TO THE EARLY 1500S AND ONE OF LISBON’S

most picturesque neighbourhoods today, bohemian Bairro Alto

has traditionally been the favoured haunt of the city’s artists, writers and

creative types.

Literally meaning 'upper neighbourhood', its maze of narrow roads weave

up and down, in and around the hill. By day they are quiet and pretty much

asleep. But by night, the hill comes alive with tiny street cafés, funky wine

bars and hidden nightspots which together generate a cool, hipster vibe,

especially at the weekends.

Considered by many to be the artistic heart of the Portuguese capital,

Bairro Alto is the perfect place to be based if you like your city breaks hip

and happening.

Perched atop Bairro Alto’s main hill in the very heart of this avant-garde

mélange – directly opposite the famous Glória tram and Miradouro de São

Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint – Palácio Ludovice was the former private

residence of João Frederico Ludovice, 18th century royal architect to King

João V.

After six years of painstaking renovation and restoration works under

the guidance of renowned Portuguese architect Miguel Câncio Martins, the

palace has been reimagined as a deluxe boutique hotel which opened just

a few months ago, and The Cultured Traveller was invited to stay at Palácio

Ludovice during the hotel's soft opening.

Throughout the building's five floors, original 18th century blue and white

tiles have been meticulously restored together with countless frescos


and stucco ceilings. Wherever possible, original brickwork is exposed and

architectural detailing is on show. Indeed, every one of the hotel’s 61 rooms

and suites is different, each sporting its own style and décor and furnished

in beautiful new mid-century themed pieces and gorgeous contemporary

fabrics. All rooms skillfully juxtapose modern-day comforts and luxurious

hospitality amenities with historic elements. Some lodgings look in towards

the hotel’s central, vertical garden, while others afford guests a bird's eye

city views. Top of the line is the hotel’s grand 65 square metre Ludovice

Prestige suite, set at the front of the palace and boasting high ceilings, twin

balconies and spectacular vistas towards the castle, directly above Bairro

Alto’s bustling streets.

In the centre of the hotel and bathed in natural light from above, a large

square courtyard surrounded by vertical hanging gardens is home to

Federico restaurant. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Federico serves

as both a restaurant and a meeting place and is the gastronomic and

oenological heart of the hotel.

Just off the central restaurant and contained within an ancient brick

vault, the hotel’s bar is a wine lovers’ hotspot, lined from floor-to-ceiling with

more than 300 vintages and presided over by bubbly and knowledgeable

in-house sommelier, Tanya Da Silva. No stay at Palácio Ludovice is complete

without a bespoke wine tasting created by Da Silva and a cocktail or three

hand-crafted by the hotel’s talented mixologist, Daniel Palma.

A property fuelled by wine, which was also once home to a bar managed by

Portugal’s Port and Douro Wines Institute, Palácio Ludovice is a very special

hotel where design, hospitality, wines and food effortlessly come together

under one historic roof in the centre of one of Europe’s most vibrant capitals.

www.palacioludovice.com


PÉREZ ZELEDÓN COSTA RICA

HACIENDA ALTAGRACIA,

AUBERGE RESORTS

COLLECTION

A SPECTACULAR MOUNTAIN RANGE IN COSTA RICA, RISING

the sea in the Caribbean to more than 3,500 metres and

dropping back down to the Valle General on the Pacific side, the Talamanca

Mountains protect some of the most beautiful cloud forests, wildlife habitat,

pristine mountain rivers and waterfalls anywhere in the world.

Set in the verdant foothills of the Talamancas in Pérez Zeledón, Auberge

Resorts’ Hacienda AltaGracia opened towards the end of 2021 offering

a unique wellness and adventure retreat, cradling nature and inspiring

holistic well-being in partnership with celebrated New York-based wellness

specialists, THE WELL.

Guests arrive by prop plane to the property’s private airstrip on the

edge of a 70-hectare site teeming with birdlife, before being transferred to

one of 50 one- and two-bedroom casitas fashioned by designer Nina Gotlieb

and decorated in warm, neutral tones punctuated by leathers and linens.

Most boast heated private plunge pools, lilac-covered pergolas, hanging

daybeds and terraces with spectacular valley and forest views.

Rooted in the belief that transformative well-being should be both

peaceful and exhilarating, AltaGracia seeks to stimulate its guests' senses

with exploration and meditative escape, complemented by inspiring Latin

American cuisine that utilises the best regional natural produce.

Drawing on local healing traditions and cutting-edge science, THE

WELL at Hacienda AltaGracia enables guests to reset, rewind and recharge

while rekindling their connection to Mother Earth via a variety of wellness

offerings that includes East-meets-West therapies, transformative

treatments, expert-led health coaching and much more. Indeed, in tandem

with Auberge Resorts, THE WELL at Hacienda AltaGracia provides the

ultimate opportunity for the cleansing and renewal of one’s mind, body and

soul in one of the most beautifully biodiverse places on the planet.

www.aubergeresorts.com www. the-well.com


IBIZA SPAIN

THE STANDARD, IBIZA

HAVING ENCHANTED TRAVELLERS FOR MORE THAN 3,000

years and been world famous for its buzzing nightlife, throbbing

clubs and rocking beach bars for decades, the third largest Balearic island

has recently grown-up somewhat and is today much more than a party

destination.

Ibiza now attracts visitors year-round for its quaint villages, secluded

aquamarine coves, world-class eateries and vivid sunsets, not to mention the

warm climate outside of the hectic summer months. And far outside Ibiza's

old town with its 16th century ramparts, Ibiza’s bucolic countryside, dotted

with olive and citrus groves, offers an array of natural delights which attract

everyone from hippies and families to celebrities and the super-rich.

Housed within a former movie theatre in the heart of Ibiza Town, where locals

used to gather throughout the year, The Standard’s new White Isle outpost is

cloaked in a clean, stark white building which would almost go unnoticed were

it not for its maximalist rooftop lounge and pool, Up, and happening groundfloor

restaurant, Jara. Both became two of the island’s most popular haunts

soon after the hotel opened in April 2022.

Inside, 67 rooms and suites were designed by Lázaro Rosa-Violán to be a

respite from the business of the town and the hotel's public spaces. All sport

a pared-back, beach-villa look, with retro-informed furnishings that speak

to the hotel's former bohemian identity. A freestanding private residence,

Casa Privada, completes The Standard Ibiza’s accommodation offerings,

all of which celebrate the resurgence of the energy that originally attracted

so many to Ibiza. The hotel is also just steps from the port where guests can

take a short boat trip to the many cultural sites around Ibiza, or island hop to

the likes of Formentera.

www.standardhotels.com


CHAUTH KA BARWARA INDIA

SIX SENSES

FORT BARWARA

LOCATED IN RAJASTHAN’S RENOWNED TIGER DISTRICT OF

Ranthambore, Barwara Fort was constructed in the 14th century

by the Chauhans and was conquered by the Rajawat Dynasty in 1734.

During World War II, Raja Man Singh, from the noble family of Barwara,

fought alongside the British. In appreciation of his services, he was given the

fort together with the title of Rao Bahadur.

Singh’s grandson Prithviraj was responsible for restoring the massive

700-year-old site and converting it into a luxury hotel. Led by a team of

conservation experts, the palatial transformation took almost a decade but

was undoubtedly worth the wait.

Situated just over 100 kilometres from Jaipur and sitting directly opposite

Chauth ka Barwara Mandir temple, Six Senses Fort Barwara opened in

October 2021.

A one-of-a-kind hotel steeped in centuries of regal history, to stay within

the fort’s walls is to enjoy a unique hospitality experience backdropped by

the Aravalli hills. For behind its 1.5-metre-thick solid sandstone ramparts,

relaxed luxury prevails in every nook and cranny of the sprawling property,

providing guests with a multitude of swimming pools and leisure facilities,

restaurants in which to feast, and 48 lavish, brass-accented suites in which

to rest their heads.

Famed for its population of Royal Bengal tigers, Six Senses also offers

daily safari drives into Ranthambhore National Park, which is just half an

hour from the fort, as well as trips to Jaipur’s buzzing bazaars.

www. sixsenses.com


ON RESIDENCE

GREECE’S YOUNG-HEARTED AND GASTRONOMICALLY RICH

become the social hub of Thessaloniki’s elite, not to mention the

second city may often be dwarfed by the nation’s capital, but

favoured haunt of celebrities, artists and politicians, including a number

Thessaloniki is superior to Athens in many ways.

of Greek Prime Ministers.

Located in the north of the country, this vibrant port city is energetic,

While the massive 1978 Thessaloniki earthquake marked a turning

youthful, teeming with creative spirit and exudes a very different flavour to

point in the restaurant’s fortunes and new legislation forced Olympos

Athens, particularly when it comes to gastronomy. The area surrounding

Naoussa to remain closed at weekends, the restaurant retained cult

Thessaloniki is incredibly fertile, the sea is on the city’s doorstep, a cluster of culinary status amongst locals until it closed in the mid-90s, having been

celebrated vineyards are half an hour away and a wealth of fresh produce is declared a cultural heritage site by the Ministry of Culture. It was not

locally and readily available. This makes Thessaloniki Greece’s number one

until some 30 years later that the building was given a new lease of life,

city for many Greek gourmands and the word is spreading fast.

Olympos Naoussa was re-born and ON Residence was created.

Positioned directly on the city’s iconic waterfront overlooking the Aegean

Whilst the site’s redevelopment was far from easy, the design vision

Sea, recently opened new ON Residence hotel, together with its storied inhouse

restaurant Olympos Naoussa, boast a colourful past spanning 100

respected its architectural heritage whilst anchoring the building in

behind the restaurant’s rebirth and the creation of the new hotel

years, which began when the original two-storey building was occupied by the present and creating a new city landmark for generations to come.

Olympos beer and Naoussa ice factory.

The result is a striking 60-room seafront hotel encompassing historic

When the brands were sold in the mid 1920s, the new owners named

Olympos Naoussa restaurant, a new bar, a new rooftop members club

their restaurant Olympos Naoussa and the new eatery traded until World

and a new al fresco dining area set in a lush, enclosed garden to the rear

War II, when German occupiers commandeered the space and turned it

of the property. Every element was evidently executed with incredible

into a music hall.

attention to detail and affection for the building’s rich heritage.

After the war, the building was acquired by a restaurateur who

dedicated his attention to establishing Olympos Naoussa as one of the

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UK’s Daily Telegraph mentioned Olympos Naoussa in a newspaper article

tour de force in Greece’s gastronomically rich second city.

titled 'The Best Food in Greece’, and the following years saw the restaurant

www. onresidence.gr

THESSALONIKI GREECE


WIN

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46 ISSUE 38 JUNE - AUGUST 2022

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ENJOY FIRST CLASS

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EVOKING THE AMBIANCE OF A grand country estate,

Raffles Udaipur is a magnificent hotel set on a 21-acre

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the hustle and bustle of the city,

Surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens, the imposing

dome-topped Palladian property is home to 101 guest rooms and

suites, all of which exude a warming east-meets-west design

aesthetic and boast uninterrupted lake views, private gardens,

balconies and plunge pools.

As well as a feast for the eyes, Raffles Udaipur is a veritable

feast for the tastebuds courtesy of a cluster of onsite restaurants

and bars catering to guests every culinary whim, including Sawai

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A peaceful space bathed in natural light, the hotel’s sumptuous

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Positively oozing a rare, hushed yet decadent elegance

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TO ENTER

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The prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will

not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified.

Entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list.


47

AN ANCIENT CAPITAL

FULL OF NEW SURPRISES

CAIRO

AHEAD OF THE OPENING OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST ARCHAEOLOGICAL

MUSEUM, DAWN GIBSON-FAWCETT EXPLORES CAIRO’S BUZZING ART

SCENE, FASCINATING ARCHITECTURE AND VIBRANT NIGHTLIFE

CITY FOCUS

CAIRO

HOW DOES ONE EXPLORE

a city as culturally rich

as Cairo? For centuries,

the wonders of ancient

Egypt have so mesmerised

travellers, that the many layers of history which

have settled over the metropolis since have often

been brushed aside like fine desert sand. Typical

whistle-stop Cairo itineraries allow just enough

time to marvel at the Pyramids of Giza and be

awestruck by Tutankhamun’s treasures before

fleeing the city to a Red Sea resort or the Valley

of the Kings.

When the massive, new and much-anticipated

Grand Egyptian Museum opens in Giza, it will

be the largest archaeological museum complex in

the world, providing visitors with an opportunity

to view the entire Tutankhamun collection in one

place, as well as thousands of priceless artefacts

complemented by state-of-the-art displays.

However, Cairo offers much more than pyramids

and antiquities.


LOCATED IN NORTHERN EGYPT WHERE THE

Nile River and the Nile Delta meet, attracting for

millennia travellers venturing from the Levant in

the east and the Mediterranean in the north, if you

delve beneath the surface of Cairo, you will find

worlds within worlds where the past and present

collide. The streets of this megacity tell stories of

the earliest Christians, as well as wave after wave

of Islamic dynasties, the latter leaving their legacy

in the form of glorious architecture that resulted in

Cairo’s moniker as “the city of a thousand minarets”.

Keep exploring and you will find much to surprise

and delight, from affluent Zamalek district on

Gezira Island, which bristles with art galleries,

restaurants, upscale nightlife and chic rooftop bars,

to Al-Azhar Park, where 30 hectares of gorgeous

gardens provide lush respite from the grit and hustle

of the city.

THE LARGEST CITY IN THE ARAB WORLD

and the sixth largest on the planet, the capital of

Egypt is home to around 22 million people.


51

Feast your eyes on unrivalled views of majestic sunsets over the Indian Ocean

whilst enjoying a cuppa on the iconic Chequerboard

“For a Spot of Ceylon Tea at the Source” - 1000 Places to See Before You Die

2, Galle Road, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka

T. (+94) 112 541 010 E. information@gallefacehotel.net

www.gallefacehotel.com

CITY FOCUS

CAIRO

And Cairo continues to expand, with new satellite

cities being built at a scale almost impossible to

comprehend. Apartment buildings stretch into the

distance as far as the eye can see and a new stateof-the-art

monorail is under construction to alleviate

road congestion.

The best time to visit is October through April,

when daytime temperatures range from 19°C to

30°C. March and April are particularly lovely as

Cairo’s leafier suburbs burst into spectacularly

blazes of bright orange, magenta and yellow.

Ideally, stay at one of the many international

five-star hotels that flank both sides of the Nile near

the districts of El Manial and Zamalek. There, you

will be close to most of the cultural landmarks and

attractions.

While Cairo has an efficient metro system –

which can be a fast way of getting around outside

peak hours – Ubers and taxis are plentiful and

cheap: a fare of EGP 120 (approx. GBP 5) will

usually buy you a 30-minute journey, depending on

the time of day.

Hanging Church

AN IDEAL PLACE TO START YOUR ADVENTURE

is Coptic Cairo or Old Cairo, not least because it is

one of the easiest parts of the city to negotiate on

foot. The decision by ancient Romans to construct

a fortress here was pivotal in the creation of the

modern city.

Whilst the story behind its construction and date

are disputed, the Fortress of Babylon is believed to

have been built around 30 BC at the entrance to a

canal that linked the Nile to the Red Sea. Named

after the ancient Macedonian capital, more than

2,000 years later the fort’s distinctive red and

white-banded ruins still stand sentinel over an area

which includes numerous churches, the Ben Ezra

Synagogue and the Coptic Museum.

If you only have a few hours in Coptic Cairo,

not to be missed is one of Egypt’s oldest churches.

Commonly known as the Hanging Church for its

position above a gatehouse of the fortress, the

current structure is believed to date back to the

7th century and was the setting for the selection

and burial of Coptic patriarchs as well as other

important ceremonies.

Ruins of Fortress

of Babylon


53

CITY FOCUS

CAIRO

Mosque of Ibn Tulun

The oldest Jewish temple in Cairo, according to

local folklore, the Ben Ezra Synagogue is located

on the site where Pharoah’s daughter found Moses

floating in the Nile.

Round off your time in the city’s ancient heart at

Africa’s oldest mosque, Amr ibn al-As, which was

built in 641 by the leader of an invading Arab army.

www.coptic-cairo.com

SURROUNDING COPTIC CAIRO, ISLAMIC CAIRO

is another of the city’s UNESCO world heritage

sites, with the calls to prayer and preponderance

of domed mosques providing constant reminders

that you are in a part of Cairo which existed long

before the city’s modern expansion. Described by

UNESCO as “one of the world’s oldest Islamic cities,

with its famous mosques, madrasas, hammams and

fountains”, wondering around Islamic Cairo is a

visual feast.

When the Muslims first conquered Egypt in 640,

they shifted the capital from Alexandria to a city

they called Fustat, built on a site near the Fortress

of Babylon. In the 10th century, the Fatimid empire

founded a new fortified city northeast of Fustat,

originally called al-Manṣūriyyah. When Caliph al-

Mu’izz li Din Allah arrived from Tunisia in 973, he

renamed the city Qāhirat al-Mu’izz. It is from this

that present-day Cairo (al-Qāhira) originates.

By the 14th century, Cairo had a population

of almost half a million people (by comparison,

London had 50,000 inhabitants at the time) and had

established itself as an influential hub of Islamic

scholarship and culture.

The oldest mosque in Cairo to survive in its

original form, the Mosque of Ibn Tulun is popular

for its beauty as well as its significance. Built in

876-879 around a vast, open square courtyard,

much of the majestic structure recalls the Abbāsid

architecture of Iraq.

The most prominent icon in Islamic Cairo is the

Citadel of Saladin, which has loomed over the city

as a symbol of power and governance for more than

eight centuries. While best known in the West for his


capture of Jerusalem from the Crusaders, Saladin

was the first sultan of both Egypt and Syria and the

founder of the Ayyubid dynasty. Construction of his

citadel began in 1176, in the Mokattam Hills area,

which is the highest point in Cairo. A succession of

subsequent rulers unsurprisingly left their stamp on

the building, which served as the seat of government

for almost 700 years. Muhammad Ali, the founder of

modern Egypt, is largely responsible for the way the

citadel looks today, including the construction of an

Ottoman-style mosque where he is buried.

https://egymonuments.gov.eg

Citadel of Saladin

55

Travel

beyond the ordinary

A SΙXT car is waiting at your destination

sixtgr

contact:

+30 211 95 50 000

sixt.gr

CITY FOCUS

CAIRO

While the view from the citadel is wonderful

on a clear day, nearby Al Azhar Park provides a

reverse perspective, softening its commanding

architecture with a foreground of greenery,

fountains and lakes. Taking a break within the

park’s tranquil gardens, it is hard to believe that

Cairo’s frantic streets are mere minutes away.

https://azharpark.com

THE DRIVE FROM ISLAMIC CAIRO TO

Zamalek is around 20 minutes. Once there, it

immediately feels like you have landed in a

different world, as beautifully restored 19th and

early 20th century apartment buildings compete

for attention. Zamalek is where wealthy Cairenes

and expats play, peruse art in galleries, shop for

antiques, meet friends in hip cafés, dine in Cairo’s

best restaurants and sip cocktails at smart clubs.

On the right as you arrive in Zamalek across

15 May Bridge, Diwan Bookstore is owned and

managed by women, was the first of its kind in Cairo

and marked something of a literary revolution in

Egypt. Today it stocks an extensive range of books

which includes a wonderful selection of coffee-table

books about Egyptian history and culture.

www.diwanegypt.com

Diwan is a minute’s walk from Aisha Fahmy

Palace, a 1907 Italianate mansion built for an

Egyptian aristocrat. Now used to host temporary

exhibitions, while the palace is not always open, it

Al Azhar Park

is worth going to the entrance to enquire, since its

lavish rococo interiors are worth seeing, not least its

grand staircase and salons. You will need to leave

your passport with security to get in.

In the surrounding streets, a cluster of galleries

showcase modern and contemporary Egyptian

art. These include the Picasso, which has been

showcasing the work of emerging young artists for

more than half a century. IG @picassoartgallery.

Meanwhile the Zamalek hosts two exhibitions

every month for established artists and new talent

respectively. www.zamalekartgallery.com And located

within the landmark 1920s Baehler Mansions, built

by famous Swiss hotelier Charles Baehler, Al Masar

exhibits work by leading and recognised Egyptian

artists. almasargallery.com

If gallery hopping gives you an appetite, take

a break at Granita, a modern version of the grand

cafés where the well-to-do were seen in 1930s

and 1940s Cairo. Tucked away in the grounds of

All Saints Cathedral, Granita is the perfect place

to indulge in a calorific cake or something more

substantial while listening to the resident pianist

tinkling the ivories. https://granita-cairo.

business.site

For classic street food, head to Zööba

on 26 July Street to sample Egypt’s

national dish, koshary, a scrumptious

carb fest of pasta, rice and lentils topped

with tomato-based sauce, garlic vinegar

and crispy fried onions. Be warned:

the large serving is only suitable if you

are absolutely famished! You may come

Koshary

across Zööba eateries throughout Cairo,

but the 26 July Street location is the original.

www.zoobaeats.com

Round off your time in Zamalek at the National

Cultural Centre of Cairo, which incorporates the

city’s opera house and the Egyptian Modern Art

Museum. The opera house is a contemporary complex

of seven theatres, including a main auditorium which

seats 1,200 and hosts everything from orchestral

recitals and ballet to traditional Arabic music.

www.cairoopera.org

Across from the opera house in the Gezira

Exhibition Grounds, Cairo’s modern art museum


CITY FOCUS

CAIRO

Zamalek

Aisha Fahmy Palace

celebrates the extraordinary wealth of Egyptian

talent to have emerged from the early 20th century

to the present day.

As the day ebbs away, find a comfy perch in one

of Cairo’s many waterfront venues to watch the sun

descend over the Nile. NOX rooftop lounge at The

Nile Ritz-Carlton hotel offers spectacular views and

a curated menu of cocktails and small plates. As the

party boats put on a glittering display beneath your

feet, sip a ‘Skyfall’ handcrafted from saké, vodka, rose

water, ginger, strawberry, lemon and honey.

www.ritzcarlton.com

Another popular venue with river frontage is

the Crimson Bar & Grill. Take the lift to the fourth

floor of 16 Kamal Al Tawil Street and emerge into

a glamorous rooftop terrace featuring a chic bar.

Book ahead for an outdoor table, as close as possible

to the dazzling city and river views, and sample

Mediterranean-style tapas or heartier plates. The

prices are on the high side, but you will remember

the views long after the last morsels pass your lips.

IG @crimson.cairo

Picasso Gallery


59

The Pyramids at Giza

THERE IS ONLY ONE PLACE ON THE PLANET

where it is still possible to see an intact wonder

of the ancient world. Photos of the Great Pyramid

– the tallest man-made structure for almost four

millennia – are often deceptive on two fronts.

Firstly, it is impossible to appreciate the sheer size

of this 4,600-year-old engineering marvel until it is

towering above you. And secondly, it is not sitting in

the middle of an empty desert but very close to the

modern city, to the extent that the pyramids at Giza

often appear as a silhouette on the horizon while

negotiating Cairo’s anxiety-inducing freeways.

Completed sometime between 2560 BC and 2540

BC, the Great Pyramid was almost 150 metres tall

when it was built by Pharaoh Khufu on a plateau on

the west bank of the Nile. Over centuries, the white

marble outer casing was removed, reducing the

pyramid’s height by more than 10 metres.

Khufu’s son, Khafre, built a second smaller

pyramid a few hundred metres away, and

is also believed to have been responsible for

commissioning the colossal limestone statue of a

recumbent sphinx, which depicts his face and is

also located in Giza.


CITY FOCUS

CAIRO

The third pyramid at the Giza plateau is much

smaller and was built by Khufu’s grandson Menkaure

in around 2510 BC. To see all three pyramids in the

best light, visit Giza early in the morning before the

sun is too high and the site becomes crowded. And

consider hiring a professional guide. The day-price

is very reasonable (around GBP 30) and a guide will

not only give you a greater appreciation of the site but

also keep annoying hawkers at bay. Two recommended

guides are Mohamed Maher (+20 100 173 0562) and

Shrouk Mamdouh (+20 115 700 9368) both of whom

are friendly and extremely knowledgeable.

Great Sphinx of Giza

61

CITY FOCUS

CAIRO

Egyptian Museum

Museum of

Islamic Art

National Museum of

Egyptian Civilization

CONTINUE YOUR CAIRO IMMERSION AT THE

National Museum of Egyptian Civilization (NMEC)

and the original Egyptian Museum, both of which

are on the other side of the Nile.

Not to be confused with the new Grand Egyptian

Museum under construction, the NMEC opened in

2021 and provides a unique overview of Egyptian

civilisation. Its star attraction is the Royal

Mummies’ Hall, where visitors can get up-closeand-personal

to the Pharaonic mummies of 18 kings

and 2 queens from the 17th through 20th dynasties.

Whilst staring at the faces of people who lived

thousands of years ago is a little unnerving, visiting

this grand hall is a must when in Cairo.

www.nmec.gov.eg

At the imposing salmon pink 1902 Egyptian

Museum on Tahrir Square, designed by French

architect Marcel Dourgnon, while the mummies may

have moved to the NMEC there are still thousands

of antiquities worth seeing. egymonuments.gov.eg

An easy, straight and level 25-minute walk from

the Egyptian Museum, the fabulous Museum of

Islamic Art is often overlooked yet provides artistic

serenity in the heart of the city. Inaugurated in

1903, the museum is home to one of the most

extensive collections of Islamic artifacts in

the world, from incredibly intricate woodwork,

stunning ceramics and exquisite carpets to objects

that illustrate Islamic innovation in astronomy,

navigation and medicine. egymonuments.gov.eg

A 10-MINUTE TAXI RIDE FROM THE MUSEUM

of Islamic Art, historic Khan El-Khalili market is

Cairo’s answer to Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. Dating

back to the late 14th century, there is some order to

the chaos within its sprawling, narrow lanes, with


63

Khan El-Khalili

CITY FOCUS

CAIRO

different sections specialising in different goods.

The jewellery souq is amongst the most interesting,

as are the districts dedicated to spices, copper and

handmade carpets, although one can find almost

anything at Khan El-Khalili, from beautifully

crafted furniture and wooden keepsakes to bellydancing

outfits and oriental lamps. The area really

comes alive at night and is a spirited place to end a

visit to Cairo. But keep moving to avoid over-zealous

shopkeepers and be prepared to haggle hard when

you find something you want to buy.

FROM THE ENDURING MONUMENTS OF

ancient Egypt to the architectural legacy of the

early Christian and Islamic dynasties, Cairo is

undoubtedly one of the world’s most fascinating

cities. A bustling, pulsating metropolis that

resolutely refuses to stand still, past glories

solidly live on in juxtaposition with brash new

modern realities throughout the city. Meanwhile

centuries of multiculturalism contribute to a

rich tapestry of cultural expression which is as

evident on Cairo’s archaic streets as it is in its

slick new galleries. Take the time to explore

the captivating Egyptian capital and

you will surely be rewarded with a

city break experience that is unlike

anything else on earth.


65

THE SUPERSTAR DJ AND

RECORD PRODUCER, WHO

HAS TWICE BEEN NAMED THE

WORLD’S BEST DJ, CHATS TO


ABOUT HIS EARLY CAREER

AND FORTHCOMING

ELEVENTH STUDIO ALBUM

5

paul

van

dyk

MINUTES

WITH

You started your career

as a music producer in

the early 1990s?

For many producers, the music we liked

did not exist in those days, so we had

to create it ourselves. It wasn’t until

the mid 90s that the genre and style

I preferred, both in clubs and studios,

came to be known as ‘trance’.

Which track marked a turning point in

your fortunes?

My debut LP record 45 RPM. I

remember the moment when I held the

test pressing in my hands – I was in

the subway and smiling like it was my

birthday, Christmas and Easter all

rolled into one.


INTERVIEW

Has electronic music always been your

favourite kind?

As a kid, I also enjoyed British indie

and rock music, including The Smiths,

for example. But I always had a passion

for electronic sounds. I am still a big

fan of Depeche Mode, which bridged the

British indie rock and electronic music

worlds with its new wave style.

The first place you ever DJd for a fee?

It was an event called The Brain Party

and I asked to be paid upfront so I could

buy records!

You have collaborated with dozens

of artists over the years - who was

your favourite?

I always enjoy working with other

artists, but it’s an even better

experience when the collaborator is a

very good friend, like Johnny McDaid,

who I have written and produced

multiple tracks with over the years.

Technology has changed considerably

since the 1990s – was it easy for you

to adjust?

I have always considered myself to be

more of an artist than solely a DJ, so

as soon as it was possible to take studio

equipment on-stage to perform, I did.

I have now been using sequencers,

keyboards and computers on stage

for more than 20 years.

In 2003, you were nominated for a Grammy

in the then New Best Electronic/Dance

Music category, for Reflections. How did it

feel to be globally recognised?

It was a special moment, of course.

But I don’t make music to attract

awards. I make music to see the joy

and smiles on the happy faces of people

enjoying my music.

You were voted DJ Magazine’s world’s best

DJ in 2005 and 2006. How did this feel?

It was amazing because it happened at a

time when social media didn’t exist and

people didn’t have smartphones. So the

people who voted for me went out of their

way to vote and make their voices heard.

How would you say the dance music

scene has most changed?

In the beginning, the DJ was something

of a freak in the corner whilst everyone

else had fun. Today, DJs are up front

and central; some DJ stages are

massive and of epic proportions and

there is a lot of emphasis on visuals,

although the latter can sometimes

detract from the music.

And the clubbing experience for club goers?

There are many more opportunities

today to enjoy all aspects of electronic

music. Indeed, we have never been so

connected or had such easy access to the

music we all love.

Did you manage to make music during the

Covid lockdowns?

Yes I did, but it was a very different

process. My musical inspiration is life in

general. Everything I see and encounter

somehow ends up in my music. So, as

you can imagine, being locked down and

experiencing very little made it difficult

to make music.

Tell us You’re about your new album?

My albums mark important parts of

my life, each with their own memories.

Some of the music on my new album

THE RECORD was created during

lockdown times and is therefore

somewhat different. So the album will

be released in three phases: Off The

Record features deeper sounds; For The

Record is what a music lover might

hear at a festival, and The Record will

feature all of the above and more.

To what do you attribute the longevity of

your three decade-long career?

I do what I do because I love music and

I believe this comes across. Music is

much more than a passion of mine.

When it comes

to electronic

music, I am the

same freak now

as I was back in

the early days!

Do you enjoy experimenting with and

developing your own music as much

today as you did 30 years ago?

Oh yes. When it comes to electronic

music, I am the same freak now as I

was back in the early days!

How do you physically maintain such

a hectic global tour schedule?

Staying healthy and being conscious

about what to do and what not to do to

help my lifestyle.

How does Paul Van Dyk relax?

We have the most amazing little dog

that puts a smile on my face

every time. Walking and

exploring with her is bliss.

www.paulvandyk.com


67

a regal stay on

the wild side

suit e envy

T H E C A M B O D I A N R O Y A L T Y T E N T

➤ S H I N T A M A N I W I L D , T H M O R R U N G


CANTILEVED OVER THE

RAGING THMOR RUNG RIVER IN

SOUTHWEST CAMBODIA, NICHOLAS

CHRISOSTOMOU REVELS IN THE

REGALNESS OF A UNIQUE TENTED

SUITE WHICH HARKS BACK TO THE

DAYS OF KHMER RULE

SURROUNDED BY DENSE, TROPICAL

rainforest, during the rainy season, the

Thmor Rung River is the swirling heart

and raging soul of Shinta Mani Wild.

Adding to the drama and theatre of it all,

the river is apparently at its highest ever as I literally zip

into the luxury tented camp in dramatic fashion. Nestled

in the foothills of the Southern Cardamom Mountains in

southwest Cambodia, Shinta Mani Wild is a three-hour

drive from Phnom Penh Airport, or a helicopter hop to the

resort’s private helipad.


69

It takes me days to start writing this piece because

I am totally beguiled by my surroundings, have been

romanced by the omnipresent river and cannot take

my eyes off the lush scenery stretching as far as I can

see, way beyond the rushing waters. The captivating

scene is like nothing I have been immersed in before

and I soon discover that the experience of staying at

Shinta Mani Wild is probably like nothing else in

Asia, if not the planet.

IT IS PERHAPS LITTLE SURPRISE THAT

Shinta Mani Wild was the brainchild of renowned

hotel designer Bill Bensley, who has a reputation for

creating extraordinary properties and out-of-thebox

hospitality experiences. One either loves or hates

Bensley’s work. Some of his projects are restrained and

elegant whilst others are outrageous and maximalist.

Shinta Mani Wild falls somewhere in between on the

calmer side. Tasteful, warm, inviting and somewhat

restrained for Bensley, Wild's incredible location

obviously takes centre stage throughout. It’s all about

the Thmor Rung River running through the property.

WILD WAS CONCEIVED WHEN A GOOD FRIEND

of Bensley, Sokoun Chandpreda and Chandpreda's

father, chanced upon a 350 hectare parcel of Cambodian

wilderness for sale at a logging auction in 2010. They

won the auction and became the proud owners and


SUITE ENVY

SUITE ENVY

hence conservators of a Central Park-sized forest

sandwiched between two national parks.

Once upon a time, the area was home to an

abundance of Asian elephants, river otters, pangolins

and gibbons. Increased access to the area damaged its

wildlife and ecosystem but thankfully they survived.

Today the area is walking a tightrope to a much

healthier future, supported by a team of Wildlife

Alliance rangers funded by the resort, which polices the

Southern Cardamoms more effectively and stops illegal

logging and poaching.

BUILT BY LOCALS, MANY OF THEM EXpoachers

who were trained by Bensley’s Shinta Mani

hospitality school to become fledgling hoteliers, Wild

was something of a game-changer when it opened at

the tail end of 2018. Its primary aim is to preserve

the raw, waterfall-adorned river valley in which it sits

and protect its sanctuary-like surroundings, whilst

offering premium adventure-based stays for discerning

travellers. A conscientious and nature-focused luxury

eco-resort with scruples, tassels and bells, every

lovingly detailed facet of the property, personally chosen

by Bensley, contributes to Wild’s story. And what a story

Bensley dreamt up for Wild..

IN BENSLEY’S HIGHLY CREATIVE MIND,

Wild was the setting for one of Jackie Kennedy and

Cambodian King Sihanouk’s first excursions into the

untouched wilderness of the Cardamoms. Kennedy

and the King may not have actually walked through

the valley that is today home to Wild, but she did

visit him in Cambodia in 1967, and Kennedy and the

King strolled around Angkor Wat together. It was a

time when travel was not a common occurrence and

globetrotting exuded a special sense of romance.

Decades later, none of this romance is lost at Wild,

which is bedecked with a carefully curated assortment

of antiques, vintage finds, objets d’art and regal

embellishments, all of which add to the theatre of the

place and complement the functionality of the resort.

This is especially apparent in the main building –

known as Headquarters – where guests dine on fine fare

at any hour of the day or night, or sip a hand-crafted

cocktail in the adjoining Landing Zone Bar, which sits

at the end of a zip-line that dramatically crosses the

river above a massive waterfall.

Much fuss has already been made about guests ziplining

into Wild and being greeted with cocktails as

their luggage is transported to their luxe lodgings. It

is indeed an extraordinary arrival experience not to

be missed. Actually a series of two zip-lines spanning

some 400 metres, incoming guests fly over the tree

canopy and the river directly into Landing Zone Bar.

And they can zip-line every day of their stays if they

wish. But zip-lining is just one element of the inimitable

Wild experience and there is much more to occupy or

relax guests depending on what’s needed, guided by the

resort’s team of attentive and well-trained adventure

butlers.

RADIATING FROM THE RESORT’S HQ,

liberally spread out along a 1.5 kilometre stretch of the

river and connected by winding, graveled paths through

the rainforest and bridges crossing babbling brooks,

Wild’s 15 luxury tents are sufficiently spaced apart

so as to afford the occupants of each an unsurpassed

amount of privacy.

Akin to extravagant glamping, every one-bedroomed

100 square metre tent boasts a covered, opensided

lounge cum dining area complete with a bar

over-stocked with complimentary premium spirits,

international wines, mixers, cocktail-making tools

and ice. Extending from the lounge, an al fresco deck

is dominated by an opulent, freestanding outdoor tub

to bathe at one with nature. Inside, in air-conditioned


SUITE ENVY

splendour, the kingly bed is massive, the shower is walkin

and deep armchairs are positioned to best appreciate

the glorious views.

The main difference between each of the 15 tents is

their location along the river, with one tent standing out

for its enviable position and supremely stately décor.

TENT NUMBER ONE, NAMED THE CAMBODIAN

Royalty Tent, was the very first to be designed and built

at Wild and occupies the resort’s most coveted position,

cantilevered over the Thmor Rung’s wild and rocky

rapids, an enchanting 10-minute walk from HQ.

When I check-in, the furious river is raging after heavy

rains, the noise is thunderous and the atmosphere is wild

and tempestuous. Crossing the tent’s private bridge and

walking onto its deck suspended over the turbulent river

completely takes my breath away. Mesmerised, it takes

a short while to register that this is where I am staying,

in such a splendid and moody spot, dominated by the

thundering sound of crashing water.

IN THE LOUNGE AREA, A GENEROUS COUCH IS

upholstered in a bright, animal-inspired print. It is here

that I spend my mornings with my feet up, sipping tea

and enjoying the unbelievable setting. All around, the

walls are hung with all manner of regal paraphernalia

appertaining to the tent’s royal theme. It’s fun and

theatrical but not OTT and the entire space simply begs

to be used and enjoyed. I set-up my laptop on a huge

dining table, facing the river. A chest fridge/freezer

contains enough alcohol and ice for a small party.

Crystal decanters are filled with premium spirits.

Ground coffee and a selection of teas are contained

within small glass jars. The attention to detail is aboveand-beyond.

Inside, a hand-painted map of Phnom Penh’s royal

quarter adorns the back of the headboard of an oversized

bed. The surrounding shelves are stacked with

old trunks, offering boxes and books interspersed with

framed antique prints of the Cambodian royal family,

original artworks by Kate Spencer and vintage pieces


75

one might have found at Phnom Penh Palace. Gold

processional umbrellas act as a canopy over the bed. The

theming is full-on but completely in-keeping, adds an

intense warmness to the room and I immediately feel at

home and begin to unpack and enjoy the space.

AT THE START OF MY STAY I AM CONNECTED

via WhatsApp to my personal adventure butler, Lucky

Hong. Super polite and helpful, Lucky acts as my

guide, coordinator, organiser and overseer of basically

everything, arranging my activities, meals, room

service, spa treatments, laundry and transportation

without any fuss whatsoever. Literally nothing is too

much trouble for Lucky.

I am not generally a spa person, but the opportunity

to have a massage in the privacy of my tent, with the

river crashing around me, is too great to pass up. The

treatment is so good that in the following days I have

two more, even making time for a half-hour head and

shoulders massage just before I check-out.

FOR THE FIRST FEW DAYS, I REALLY DON’T

want to leave my tent, such is the level of comfort

and service afforded to Wild’s guests. I would stay a

week if I could. For to check into Shinta Mani Wild

is to experience something else, akin to staying in a

different universe.

Imagine walking onto a spectacular living, breathing

film set of Indiana Jones proportions, where everything

is real, the food is top-notch, the service is first-class

and anything requested is promptly delivered with

genuine care. This is the essence of Wild. And I love

every minute of my stay on the Wild side.

A three-night all-inclusive stay for two people in The Cambodian Royalty

Tent at Shinta Mani Wild starts at USD 8,880 excluding taxes, inclusive

of meals, beverages, activities, excursions, spa treatments,

laundry, roundtrip private airport transfers and more.

https://shintamani.com


SUITE ENVY

SKY BRIEF

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER’S SEASONAL

ROUND-UP OF GLOBAL AIR TRAVEL NEWS

BOATENG’S NEW UNIFORMS FOR BRITISH AIRWAYS

ANNOUNCED A FEW YEARS AGO BUT DELAYED FOR

various reasons, not least by the pandemic, celebrated

British-Ghanaian Savile Row tailor Ozwald Boateng is in

the throes of putting the finishing touches to the new uniforms for the

UK’s national flag carrier, British Airways. They will be worn by more

than 30,000 British Airways staff including pilots, cabin crew, ground

staff, engineers and ramp workers, and it is rumoured that they will be

introduced in late 2022/early 2023.

British Airways has worked with a number of famous designers

throughout the airline’s 103-year history, including Paul Costelloe, Roland

Klein, Baccart Weatherall and Hardy Amies. Julien MacDonald designed

the airline’s outgoing uniform, which was introduced in 2004.

Renowned for bringing a modern contemporary twist to the classic

British institution of tailoring, it is expected that Boateng’s sharp designs

for the airline will propel BA into the next chapter of its fashion history.

www.britishairways.com


CELEBRITY CHEF OPENS EATERY IN VIENNA AIRPORT

AUSTRIAN CELEBRITY CHEF WOLFGANG PUCK HAS

added another venue to his global food and beverage

empire of more than 100 restaurants, in the form of a new

eatery in terminal 3 of Vienna Airport. Opened in partnership with British

SSP Group, Wolfgang Puck Kitchen + Bar features an open kitchen, bar

and takeaway area, and serves classical international food, Wolfgang

Puck signature dishes and gourmet pizzas. In an attempt to attract

outside business, Vienna residents who are not flying can park in

designated parking bays at Vienna Airport free of charge if their bill at

Wolfgang Puck Kitchen + Bar exceeds EUR 20.

Puck’s success story began in 1982 with Spago on Canon Drive in

Beverly Hills. For decades Puck has cooked for the stars on Oscars

night in Hollywood. Today, the original Spago is the flagship restaurant

of global Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group and is still as popular as it

was 40 years ago.

https://wolfgangpuck.com

BATTLE FOR THE WORLD’S

LONGEST FLIGHT

EARLIER THIS YEAR, SINGAPORE AIRLINES

resumed its non-stop Singapore to Newark

Airbus A350 service, considered to be the

longest flight in the world, with a flying time of 17 and a half

hours to cover 15,349 kilometres. But the battle for the

world’s longest distance flight continues..

Air New Zealand recently announced a 17-hour direct

flight from New York to Auckland, which was soon followed

by Qantas announcing a new Dallas-Melbourne route

which will also take 17 hours. Qantas has also revealed

plans to operate the world’s longest commercial flight by

the end of 2025, shuttling passengers between Sydney

and London on Airbus A350 aircraft in a touch over 19

hours.

Meanwhile, due to the Russian invasion of Ukraine,

Cathay Pacific is changing the flight path of its Hong

Kong-New York route, which may just make it the longest

in the world, since avoiding both Russian and Ukrainian

airspaces will increase the distance flown from 12,990 to

a crazy 16,618 kilometres on one flight!


79

NEW LOW-COST

AIRLINES TAKE

TO THE SKIES

AFTER BEING PRETTYmuch

grounded for two years

courtesy of coronavirus

lockdowns, the demand for air travel right

now is almost insatiable. But sky-high

fuel prices and the impact of the Russian

invasion of Ukraine have contributed to air

fares soaring past pre-pandemic levels.

This has prompted a number of new lowcost

airlines to take to the skies, many

sporting colourful liveries and cheeky

names like ZIPAIR, Breeze and PLAY,

offering cheap and attractive deals, on

the face of it..

Last year, Icelandic airline PLAY began

flying between Iceland and the United

States. Soon it added routes to Baltimore

and Boston from Reykjavík, as well as

flights from its hub to two dozen European

cities. PLAY flights to New York land at

Stewart International Airport which is

an hour’s drive from Manhattan in New

Windsor, but fares are considerably

cheaper than flights into JFK, and

transiting Reykjavik is a piece of cake.

Just watch the prices for carry-on bags

and checked luggage, which vary greatly

depending on your destination, the time of

year and whether you pay online or at the

airport. www.flyplay.com

DOHA’S AIRPORT VOTED

THE WORLD’S BEST

ASKING TRAVELLERS A VARIETY OF QUESTIONS AT MORE THAN 500 AIR

termini around the world, every year, airline consulting group Skytrack comes

up with the best airport on the planet. Stealing the prize from Singapore for the

second year running, Hamad International Airport was named the 2022 World’s Best Airport at

an award ceremony held earlier this summer in Paris. Tokyo Haneda Airport came in second and

Changi Airport Singapore was ranked third.

Featuring a state-of-the-art wellness centre complete with a swimming pool, hydrotherapy

tub, gym, squash courts and a full-service spa that offers anti jet-lag massages as well as

facials, travellers transiting Doha can even take a nap before their connection in a private, airconditioned

sleep pod or cabin.

https://dohahamadairport.com


The New Finnair

Discover

the US and Asia

in elevated comfort

finnair.com

JAPAN &

SINGAPORE’S

PASSPORTS

ARE THE MOST

POWERFUL

THE CLOSURE OF

airspace due to Russia’s

military aggression and the

opening of borders to Ukrainian refugees

have collectively begun to exert influence

on all of our global travel freedoms. While

there’s been little change at the top of the

list of countries with the so-called most

powerful passports, the Ukrainian conflict

has begun to shake things up lower down

the index compiled by London-based

global citizenship and residence advisory

firm, Henley & Partners.

Since war broke out at the end of

February, many countries have either

amended their entry policies or dropped

visa requirements for Ukrainian passport

holders completely, prompting Ukraine to

rise to 34 on the index, with its nationals

now able to travel to 143 destinations

visa-free (or visa-on-arrival). Russia,

on the other hand, has dropped to 49, a

position which is expected to worsen as

the conflict continues.

At the top of the list, Japan and

Singapore share the number one spot,

with nationals of these two countries able

to travel to 192 destinations visa-free.

Although it’s worth mentioning that this

does not take into account any temporary

restrictions imposed on any nation.

www.henleyglobal.com

NEW VIRGIN UPPER CLASS

A330 SUITES

THE FIRST UK AIRLINE TO ANNOUNCE A FIRM ORDER FOR AIRBUS A330 NEOS

in 2019, reaffirming its commitment to flying one of cleanest and greenest fleets

in the sky, Virgin Atlantic recently unveiled its latest A330 neo interiors, including a

slick, new-look upper class cabin developed in collaboration with Factorydesign.

While the airline’s award-winning social space, The Loft, remains a focal point of the cabin

design and is a core part of Virgin’s Upper Class experience, the 30 new, all forward-facing

Upper Class Suites on each of Virgin’s new A330 neo aircraft will offer more space and storage

as well as a fully-closing privacy door with a DND feature. Inside, passengers can control the

mood lighting and watch movies on a 17.3” touchscreen TV. The innovative Thompson Vantage

fully-flat bed seats in Virgin’s new Upper Class are courtesy of Thompson Aero and offer

superlative passenger comfort.

www.virginatlantic.com


SKY BRIEF

IBERIA’S NEW TERESA HELBIG

UNIFORMS GO INTO SERVICE

THE CULMINATION OF A REBRANDING PROCESS WHICH

began in 2013, a 20-garment collection of chic new uniforms

purpose designed for Iberia by Teresa Helbig has been rolledout

to flight and airport personnel at the airline’s Madrid hub. The rest

of Iberia’s 7,000 staff should be wearing the new designs by 2023, which

include dresses, skirts, trousers and coats in navy blue, fawn, red and

yellow, as well as a range of coordinated accessories including scarves,

ties, gloves and bags.

Renowned for designing timeless, fresh, romantic, feminine and

sophisticated clothes with a provocative and punk touch, Barcelona-

based Helbig has been in the fashion spotlight for more than 25 years,

since launching her eponymous brand in 1996 encouraged by her

talented mother who, as a professional seamstress and dressmaker

who, encouraged her daughter’s early passion for fashion. Combining

craftsmanship with avant-garde materials, Helbig’s new uniforms for

Iberia were designed to feel comfortable, look elegant, be timeless and

make the staff wearing them feel proud to be part of the airline.

https://teresahelbig.com

USD 4 BILLION FELIPE ÁNGELES AIRPORT OPENS

NORTH OF THE CAPITAL AND CONVERTED FROM MILITARY SANTA LUCIA AIRBASE

into a commercial airport by Mexican President Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador, Felipe

Ángeles International Airport was inaugurated earlier this year while it was still somewhat

uncompleted and will not be served by a train connection until 2023.

Following a contentious October 2018 referendum he promoted, Obrador ditched a partly-built new

airport in Texcoco, to the east of Mexico City, arguing that the project was riddled with corruption.

It cost the country almost USD 2 billion to pay-off the Texcoco bondholders. Obrador then put the

Mexican army in charge of building the new airport, which had cost close to USD 4 billion by the time it

partially opened. To say that Felipe Ángeles International Airport has had a slow start is something of

an understatement.


83

finnair

reimagines

business

class travel

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TAKES FLIGHT FROM

HELSINKI TO SINGAPORE TO EXPERIENCE FINNAIR’S

NEW AIRLOUNGE BUSINESS CLASS PRODUCT

Finnair A350-900

Business Class Cabin


BOARDING

PASS

Finnair AirLounge seat

HEADQUARTERED AT HELSINKI

Airport, which has just been

the subject of a EUR 1 billion

development program and is within

an easy 20-25 minute drive of the

city centre, Finnair was founded almost a century ago

in 1923 and is hence one of the world’s oldest operating

airlines. Finland’s national flag carrier, Finnair has

gradually grown from a small airline to a strong and

respected member of the aviation industry. Currently

serving more than 70 destinations, Finnair today is a

truly international carrier and is consistently ranked

as one of the world’s safest airlines. A member of the

same Oneworld alliance as Cathay and BA, Finnair has

also repeatedly been named by Skytrax as Northern

Europe's Best Airline.

Following a global pandemic which has had a

dramatic impact on the aviation industry, Finnair is

specialising in connecting passengers and cargo traffic

between Europe, Asia and the United States via the

shortest northern routes, with sustainability being at

the heart of everything the airline does, as it drives to

achieve carbon neutrality by the end of 2045.

TO BE THE FIRST CHOICE FOR ALL TYPES OF

passengers travelling between Europe and Asia and

provide them with a premium experience in every cabin

drove the airline’s recent EUR 200 million investment

Helsinki


85

BOARDING

PASS

in the Finnair customer experience, which focused on

creating more space on long-haul flights.

Introduced earlier this year on the its Airbus

A350 and A330 long-haul aircraft, with the complete

rollout planned for completion by early 2024, Finnair’s

entirely new business class product is perhaps the

most innovative and radical new premium seat design

the European aviation scene has seen in a decade,

if not longer.

ORIGINALLY CONCEIVED BY PRIESTMANGOODE

in London, the new business class seat concept

was further developed by Collins Aerospace, with

customisation and final design execution by Finnair and

its design partner, Tangerine.

Taking its inspiration from lounge furniture and

attempting to create more of a residential environment

in the sky, Finnair’s new AirLounge seat is designed

to maximise business class passengers' comfort and

freedom to move during long-haul flights, not to mention

the functionality of their personal space.

By doing away with complicated seat adjustment

mechanisms and surrounding each business class

passenger with a high, cocoon-like fixed shell which

provides increased privacy, passengers are able to

move around more freely in their seats and assume

more positions than traditional business class seats

allow, emulating the comforts and freedoms one enjoys

at home. Something of a complete departure from a

traditional business class seat, most radically, Finnair's

new AirLounge seat does not recline.

A FIRM BELIEVER IN EXPERIENCING A NEW

airline product without being pre-influenced by

reviews before flying, I’m a few hours into my Helsinki-

Singapore flight in seat 2A before I realise that there is

no recline button. I don’t look for it until I am mid-way

through a movie being shown on a wide 18” screen, with

the best in-flight sound I am experiencing in years,

courtesy of Bose, of course.

In those first few hours, I naturally make the

increased seat space my own, arranging my body into a

few different positions. These include having my legs on

the seat, bolstered by a couple of squishy cushions, as I

would if I was watching a movie at home. Indeed, with

the electrically operated seat extension in the upright

position, the seat feels a lot like an armchair embracing

me, and various lighting options allow the ambiance of

my nest to my customised, including a cool wall lamp

doubling as a reading light.

When it comes to sleeping, a narrow infill panel flips

up manually to create a long flat surface, with a quilted

mattress and a cosy duvet turning the space into a

pretty decent bed. Extra space around my head enables

me to move my arms into a comfortable position – this

alone makes it easier to sleep in a Finnair AirLounge

seat than a traditional, reclining business class seat.

And throughout the cabin, bespoke mood lighting

inspired by Nordic nature and designed in partnership

with Hamburg-based Jetlite combats the effects of jetlag

and subtly promotes well-being.

ALL CLEAN LINES AND DARK, COMFORTING

colours, a nifty seat-back storage cupboard homes my

phone, wallet and glasses for the flight and contains

a small corded remote and USB A, USB C and PC

charging points. Meanwhile, compartments near my

feet house my laptop and man bag, with space for

bottled water and other bits and bobs all within easy

reach. Just my holdall is stored overhead.

A fixed, arm-length table to one side of the seat

incorporates a wireless mobile charging point, from

under which a very solid adjustable table slides out.

Together, the two tables can be arranged in such a way

that the space either feels like an efficient workstation

or a generous dining area.

The tables particularly work in tandem beautifully

when I decide to work and the space allows plenty of

room for moving elbows. What I find especially cool is

that the adjustable table can be sufficiently moved out

of the way, with my laptop still on it, to allow for easy

access to the aisle and washroom without disturbing

cables or multiple drinks. This is something one usually

only enjoys in a first class cabin.

Needless to say, the A350-900 on which I’m flying is

Clockwise from top left: In-flight entertainment;

Iittala x Finnair Kuulas glass; Finnair A350-900


equipped with internet connectivity, which is provided

free of charge to business class passengers for one hour.

IN LINE WITH FINLAND’S WORLD-RENOWNED

design heritage, Finnair worked with a few top Finnish

design houses to complete its new business class

experience with beautiful textiles and custom tableware.

Almost as soon as we’re in the air, my Helsinki

Gin and tonic (ordered pre take-off) is accompanied

by warmed cashew nuts served in a bijou china bowl

designed by Harri Koskinen for Iittala. The bowl is

replenished a few times before the meal service begins.

Four courses (or five, if you count the two cold

starters) are served on more chic Iittala chinaware,

which is part of Koskinen's contemporary home-inspired

Kuulas collection.

Although I kick-off the meal with an excellent 2018

Labouré-Roi Chablis le Beaunois, my braised beef short

ribs main dish is accompanied by a rather good, fullbodied

2016 Cabernet Sauvignon from Chateau Puyarbe

Côtes du Bourg. Including Champagne, there are nine

wines to choose from, including two dessert, which

pleases the oenophile in me.

In between the main meal and breakfast of onion and

chorizo frittata, a tray brimming with sweet goodies

and snacks is passed around by the friendly cabin crew,

and I help myself to a small bag of Haribo and a box of

handmade crisps to nibble during my second movie.

THE BUSINESS CLASS AMENITY KIT IS

compact but beautifully designed by Finnish fashion

house Marimekko for Finnair. Containing the basics

I need to stay hydrated in-flight and spruce-up prior

to landing, it includes a light chamomile and lavender

face cream and an almond and coconut lip balm,

both by 100% natural Swedish skincare brand, L:A

Bruket. The kit also contains a covetable Marimekko

face mask, quality ear plugs and a good toothbrush

complete with Australian White Glo paste. I also find

L:A Bruket products in the washrooms when I change

out of my sleepwear.

Made from 100% recycled PET, I pop a pair of dark

grey Finnair felt slippers in my carry-on before we

touch down and feel sufficiently rested and energised to

go straight out to dinner in Singapore, barely an hour

after landing. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

Finnair’s new business class AirLounge seat is currently

available on the airline’s routes to Singapore, Hong

Kong, New York, Chicago and Dallas. www.finnair.com


87

global hotel le

RAFFLES SINGAPORE

SINGAPORE

the makings


AN INTERNATIONAL HOSPITALITY

CELEBRITY, NICHOLAS

CHRISOSTOMOU CHECKS INTO

THE ICONIC HOTEL THAT LAUNCHED

A GLOBAL LUXURY BRAND

LEADING A GLOBAL

procession of luxury hotels,

palaces and resorts which will

soon stretch from one side of

the planet to the other, Raffles

Singapore is the brand’s flagship property and is

the stuff of hospitality legend.

Designated a national monument in 1987,

whilst the Singaporean star retains the same

colonial-era façade, incredibly high ceilings,

beautiful verandahs and Victorian pillars, and is

one of the world’s few remaining truly grand 19th

century hotels, Raffles has adjusted to the needs of

modern-day travellers and its hive of attentive staff

move at a nimble 21st century pace.

SHORTLY AFTER SWISHING INTO THE

hotel’s graveled driveway in a discreet Raffles

S-Class to check-in for a weekend in the Lady

Sophia suite, I am immersed in genuine old world

splendour, surrounded by regal interiors and

ushered into an atmosphere of hushed opulence.

With the exception of a mammoth Czech chandelier

which dominates the spectacular three-storey

lobby, glistening with more than 8,000 crystals

recalling flower blossoms, Raffles is a modest

palace of hospitality where luxury, history and

modernity co-exist in harmony. Framed by a grand

staircase, the light and airy lobby, lit from above

by glass-panelled skylights, positively invites me

in. This is contrary to what I expect to feel upon

arriving at such an illustrious and imposing hotel.

of a

gend

ONE OF JUST FOURTEEN SUITES IN THE

main building, the Lady Sophia was named after

the wife of Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder of

modern Singapore. A new addition to Raffles’

inventory following the hotel’s most recent

renovation, the 100 square metre suite was

fashioned from a former boardroom and consists of

a parlour for living and dining, a butler’s kitchen,

a guest cloakroom, an airy, triple-aspect bedroom

with windows on three sides, a huge Bianco

Dolomite marble-clad bathroom and a private

outdoor veranda which looks towards Singapore’s

business district.

On the morning of Singapore’s 57th National

Day, I sit on a rattan sofa on my veranda and gaze

at the cloud-skimming skyline, sipping a cup of

English Breakfast tea as the island nation wakes

up. Nestled in the front-most corner of the main

building overlooking the hotel’s main entrance and

Beach Road, in the late 1800s, my lodgings would

have been within a minute’s walk of Singapore’s

beachfront. Today, high-rises and shopping malls

stand between Raffles and the waters of the

Singapore Strait, but the hotel still remains the

most legendary property in Asia and I am ensconced

by its warmth and stories. I also feel completely at

ease despite Raffles’ intense grandeur.

The Sarkies clan

Main dining room

(now the lobby)

THROUGHOUT THE COMING DAYS, I FEAST

on exquisite fare in an array of on-site restaurants,

I sip delectable hand-crafted cocktails, I am

relaxed to the point of slumber in the sprawling

Raffles Spa, I work-out in a well-equipped gym and

I enjoy impeccable service from a bevy of butlers.

Only a true grand dame of the hospitality world

knows how to gracefully fulfill the needs of her

well-travelled guests with such effortless efficiency,

class and panache, and Raffles Singapore is


HOSPITALITY ICON

RAFFLES SINGAPORE

nothing if not a seasoned hospitality pro, with 135

years of service under her Fendi belt. As British

playwright and novelist Somerset Maugham once

wrote, “Raffles stands for all the fables of the exotic

East”. Maugham was not wrong.

THE STORY OF RAFFLES BEGINS WHEN

an enterprising doctor, Charles Emerson, leases

a charming Singapore beach house in 1878 and

converts the seafront property into a small hotel.

Sadly, his aspirations of being an international

hotelier are short-lived when he dies five years

later and the hotel closes.

After a few years, the old Emerson Hotel

attracts the attention of the renowned Sarkies

Brothers, who had recently opened the Eastern

& Oriental hotel in George Town, Penang and

achieved overnight success. The brothers proceed

to renovate the site and reopen it as 10-roomed

Raffles Hotel, which they name in honour of

Singapore’s founder. Before long, the hotel is the

centerpiece of society gatherings and crazy things

happen at Raffles.

Within a decade of opening, the Sarkies add

three new buildings to the existing structure in

an attempt to meet guests’ accommodation needs,

increasing Raffles’ inventory to 75 rooms. A

ballroom and billiards hall are also added and the

Sarkies kit out every guest room with the finest

of the era’s fittings, including electric lighting and

ceiling fans.

By the late 1890s, such is the demand for rooms

at Raffles, that the Sarkies hire architect Regent

A. J. Bidwell to rebuild the hotel for the next

century. Creating the hotel’s now iconic façade

by fusing a blend of design styles which become

known as Singapore’s colonial architecture, many

consider Bidwell’s greatest achievement to be

Palm Court


91

HOSPITALITY ICON

RAFFLES SINGAPORE

his work on Raffles. The hotel’s new look greatly

contributes to its emergence as one of Asia’s

premier hotels and Singapore’s growth as one

of Asia’s most popular destinations. During the

following years, as Raffles’ popularity swells in

society circles, a number of renowned luminaries

drop anchor and spend time at the hotel.

THE GREAT DEPRESSION OF THE LATE

1920s unfortunately marks a drastic turn

in Raffles’ fortunes, as the last surviving

Sarkies brother files for bankruptcy and the

industrialised world suffers the worst economic

downturn in history.

The hotel subsequently recovers under new

ownership, until the outbreak of World War II and

the ensuing Japanese invasion and occupation of

Singapore in 1942. As Japan’s army descends on

Singapore, legend has it that Raffles holds one last

waltz in order to distract Japanese soldiers, while

the hotel’s silver is hidden in the Palm Court.

AFTER THE WAR, CHARLIE CHAPLIN AND

Noel Coward (who both stayed at Raffles in the

1930s) return to the hotel along with Elizabeth

Taylor, Ava Gardner, Maurice Chevalier and

other stars of stage and screen. To this day, Noel

Coward’s biggest hit, I’ll See You Again, is played

every evening when the oldest piece of furniture

in the hotel, the grandfather clock in the lobby,

strikes 8pm.

Under private ownership, Raffles resumes its

place as Singapore’s premier hotel, a fact that is

seemingly confirmed when much of Guy Green's

1967 British comedy, Pretty Polly, is filmed within

its buildings and extensive grounds.

1972 IS THE YEAR WHEN BOTH HM QUEEN

Elizabeth II visits Raffles for the first time and

one Mr. Leslie Danker joins the hotel’s staff. HM

Queen Elizabeth II visits Raffles again in 1989.

When Her Majesty stays at the hotel on her third

visit in 2006, she is introduced to Danker. Today,

Danker is the hotel’s resident historian. Something

of a walking Raffles history book, having been

with the hotel for 50 years, 80-year-old Danker

conducts heritage tours for hotel guests and is

often fully booked all day. Indeed, the grandfather

clock in the lobby and Leslie Danker are Raffles’

two most valuable historical pieces.

In 2012, Danker meets the Duke and Duchess of

Cambridge, when Kate and William follow in their

grandmother’s regal footsteps and stay at Raffles.

Writers Bar

La Dame de Pic

Singapore Sling


HOSPITALITY ICON

RAFFLES SINGAPORE

WITH A KNACK FOR THE THOUGHTFUL

renovation of hugely historic hotels, in 2017,

Champalimaud Design begins the mammoth

task of overseeing the revamp of every part of

Raffles, including the sensitive reimagination of

its public areas and all guest rooms. Some two

years later, Raffles gracefully emerges from the

three-phased restoration with 115 new-look guest

suites. Tastefully and elegantly reborn for modern

travellers, the property’s social spirit is restored

via restructured spaces which positively invite the

local community into the hotel.

A variety of new, high-end restaurants

complement the revitalised hotel, including Alain

Ducasse and Jereme Leung venues, and La Dame

de Pic, an offshoot of culinary maestro Anne-

Sophie Pic's three Michelin-starred Maison Pic in

southeast France.

Set in an elegant, feminine-inspired dining

room, of all the excellent meals I enjoy at Raffles

(none of which can be faulted), the tasting menu I

relish at La Dame de Pic stands out for a multitude

of reasons, not least the complex and evocative

flavours of every course, the wonderful cheese

trolley and the entire experience being unstuffy for

fine dining.

WHILST IT WOULD BE RUDE NOT TO

partake of a Singapore Sling while staying in

the hotel, since the nation’s cocktail was created

in 1915 by Raffles bartender Ngiam Tong Boon,

instead of tourist-filled Long Bar, I pull up a stool

at Writers Bar for an aperitif.

A sophisticated space dominated by a gorgeous

brass bar and a striking contemporary chandelier

overhead, sipping a Writers Bar signature Million

Dollar Cocktail, made with Sipsmith Raffles 1915

Gin, is the perfect prelude to dinner.

SET WITHIN A LUSH 5-ACRE COMPLEX IN

the heart of Singapore, Raffles is a rare example

of an iconic and intensely storied hotel which

successfully straddles the old and new. Deftly

offering its guests contemporary facilities, upto-date

food and beverage experiences and every

conceivable comfort, while keeping one foot firmly

in the past and celebrating its enormous heritage

every day, makes Raffles Singapore a

hospitality icon of the modern world.

www.raffles.com/singapore


95

KOSRAE

MICRONESIA

micronesia’s

jewellery box

for nature

lovers

DESTINATION

ISLAND

HOPPING

BEDECKED WITH MANGROVE FORESTS AND EDGED

BY SANDY BEACHES LOOKING TOWARDS REEFS

WHERE CORAL GARDENS ARE HOME TO AN ARRAY

OF MARINE LIFE, SAMANTHA HENDERSON VISITS

THE ECO ISLAND DELIGHT OF KOSRAE



ISLAND HOPPING

KOSRAE

SET ON A SERIES OF ISLANDS IN

the South Pacific, if you’ve watched

Walt Disney’s animated movie Moana

you’ll have met Te Fiti. A fictional

Polynesian princess with the ability

to create life, Te Fiti gifts the movie’s heroes a

magical fish-hook, an outrigger canoe and the

winds to sail it, before she lies down to sleep, her

body forming the shape of a verdant green island.

Populated by one of the most peaceful and gracious

people on the planet, the “Island of the Sleeping

Lady” is what locals call Kosrae in the Western

Pacific Ocean, since the luxuriant isle resembles

the figure of a reclining woman.

Situated 8 hours west of the Hawaiian capital

of Honolulu and 5 hours south of American Guam,

Kosrae is the smallest of the Caroline Islands and

is often referred to as the jewel of Micronesia due to

its pristine reefs, lush vegetation, peaceful islanders

and relaxed pace of life.

A VOLCANIC ISLAND, KOSRAE WAS PROBABLY

first settled around the first millennium AD.

Thereafter, Malayo-Polynesian seafarers were

attracted to Kosrae by its lands rich in fish, birds

and vegetation.

By the Middle Ages, the island’s population had

grown to around 40,000 and there are fascinating

ruins and archeological sites on the island dating

back to this period. But the following 200 years

saw the establishment of a Spanish colony and the

decimation of the population by smallpox to less that

1,000. Thankfully the islanders embraced the beliefs

of the early Christian missionaries who followed

closely in the wake of the decadence and disease

brought by pirate and whaling ships in the 1800s,

and many traditional skills were not lost.

Traditional Kosrean stick dance


99

ISLAND HOPPING

KOSRAE

The Spanish were followed by the Germans, the

Japanese and, eventually, the Americans. Indeed,

sovereign Micronesia is still associated with the

United States today.

Fine weaving from hibiscus, pandanus and

coconut palm; wood carving; traditional canoe and

cottage construction, fishing and farming continue

to be practiced regularly on Kosrae, as they have

been for hundreds of years, and are handed down

through the generations. Yet while it is still possible

for travellers to experience some of Kosrae’s original

culture, of more interest to most visitors is the

prospect of observing, in close proximity, some of the

oldest and most productive ecosystems on earth.

A HALF-HOUR DRIVE FROM THE AIRPORT,

which is positioned on an artificial island some 150

metres from the coast and connected to the main

island by a causeway, Pacific Treelodge Resort was

built more than three decades ago by the Sigrah

family, one of the oldest on Kosrae.

One of the first hotels to be erected on the island

and now the most established and intimately in tune

with local culture and customs, Pacific Treelodge’s

environmental, economic and social policies include

measures to recycle waste materials, conserve

energy, protect the mangrove forests and monitor the

health of the ocean. Consequently, Pacific Treelodge

plays host to many of the island’s eco-driven

visitors including scientists, health professionals,


Kosrae Fruit Dove

government officials and US military personnel from

the nearby Marshall Islands.

Throughout the resort the atmosphere is relaxed,

casual and laid-back. Guests are treated like friends

and the Treelodge’s welcoming and sociable owners,

Mark and Maria, are a hive of knowledge, tips and

connections.

Outdoor paths and bridges – fashioned from

an ingenious mix of crushed recycled glass and

cement – crisscross the tropical grounds. The simple,

air-conditioned accommodation is bright, clean and

functions well, as does the wi-fi, which is a rarity in

Micronesia! If you have a choice, the rooms veiled

by mangroves and mere footsteps from a sandy bay,

lapped by warm clear blue waters and fringed by

coral reefs, are the ones to book. kosraetreelodge.com

KOSRAE’S COASTAL MANGROVE FORESTS

and sprawling, fringing reefs are considered to be

some of the healthiest in Micronesia and support a

small but growing diving and ecotourism industry.

Such intense, natural ecological richness is still

present in very few locations around the world,

making Kosrae something of a unique destination.

Begin your Kosrae adventure by kayaking

upriver into the heart of the island’s mangroves,

squeezing through narrow channels, ducking under

low hanging branches and catching the incredible

reflections in the still waters. During full moons,

exceptionally high tides enable kayakers to venture

further, following tranquil seawater channels

miles upstream. Within the intricate mesh of roots

beneath the water you will undoubtedly spot small

crabs, colourful fish and giant red mangrove crabs.

Return for dinner on the deck of Bully’s,

Treelodge’s onsite restaurant situated on a beautiful

lake. Sip a coconut-infused cocktail, watch the

sunset and feast on huge, fresh mangrove crab,

caught minutes from your table. Served with a


101

The Lelu Ruins

Ginger

cup of traditional

Kosraean soup,

the earthy taste of

mangrove crab is

unique and the claws

are large and meaty.

If you’re lucky,

your dinner may be

accompanied by the

soothing sounds of

a Kosraean lullaby

strummed by a local

lady on a ukulele.

LOCATED HALFWAY BETWEEN THE SURF

line and the shore across from the Kosrae Nautilus

Resort, visiting the Blue Hole is a must when on

Kosrae. Offering calm waters ideal for snorkelers of

all skill levels, this large hole in the reef flat features

a number of coral heads providing plenty of hiding

places for tropical fish. As you walk over the sandy

banks, through the slender sea grasses toward this

natural fish sanctuary, look out for sea cucumbers

and stingrays. The grasses gradually give way to

coral, then to the hole itself, which is protected by

an outer reef making it easy to snorkel without

interference from currents or choppy waves. Once

you’ve had your fill of snorkeling, join the locals

hunting for small shells, which they use to create

handmade crafts. Be sure to take lots of bottled

water and sunscreen to the Blue Hole and tread

carefully to avoid damaging the corals.

CONNECTED TO KOSRAE BY A CAUSEWAY,

Lelu Island was once the location of a massive walled

city, built between the 13th and 14th centuries for

Kosraean royalty. Known as the ancient capital of

the Pacific Ocean, the city’s ruins, which are being

slowly enveloped by the jungle, are hidden behind

thick tropical vegetation in the kind of isolated

setting you might imagine trekking hours to find.

But you can still see the dwelling compounds of

high chiefs, two royal burial mounds, a few sacred

compounds and a number of large walls built from

large hexagonal basalt planks stacked like a log

cabin. The ruins of the enigmatic ancient civilization


The Lelu Ruins

ISLAND HOPPING

KOSRAE

The Blue Hole

which occupied this city, which history tells us

enjoyed a unique relationship with the coral reefs,

is unparalleled in modern day. Today, the Lelu

Ruins are globally significant because they hold

important information about the customs and

structure of the ancient Kosraen people, preceding

European contact.

SUNDAYS ARE SACRED ON KOSRAE AND

locals are only permitted to go to church, but

tourists can quietly carry on their explorations.

Deciding that some exercise is in order, we embark

upon a gently hike of one-hour each way, toward

the prehistoric Menke Ruins in the centre of the

island.

Menke is a religious archaeological site where

islanders used to worship Singlaku, the goddess

of breadfruit. Our affable local guide Salik is

part of the family that owns the ruins and kindly

cuts some walking sticks for us. As we gently

climb, we eat crunchy mountain apples picked in

the rainforest and drink fresh water from tree

vines. And we learn about the three types of

tropical ginger growing on Kosrae: one is used

for cooking and wrapping, while the others are

used for flavouring and shampooing/conditioning

respectively.

Eventually the hike reaches the Menke Ruins,

the oldest on Kosrae. Because they predate the Lelu

Ruins (and even Nan Madol on Pohnpei) the basalt

columns that remain are mostly obscured by dense

undergrowth. In any event, to pause at Menke and

consider just how long humans have been living

and thriving on this tiny island is awe-inspiring.

A SECOND HIKE THE FOLLOWING DAY, TO

the top of Mount Oma, 1,555 feet above sea level,


ISLAND HOPPING

KOSRAE

is a steep and fairly strenuous 4-hour climb. But

at the summit we are rewarded with breathtaking

vistas of the entire island and the Blue Hole. On

the way down we wander around cool caves dug by

the Japanese Army to protect them from American

bombing during World War II, and swim under

crystal clear waterfalls. A local botanist and guide,

Carlos, who travelled from Puerto Rico to Kosrae

with the Peace Corps 40 years earlier, married a

local and never left, tells us about the local flora and

fauna. He also helps us with the paperwork needed

to hike the mountain. There’s almost always a fee

involved to access private land on Kosrae and some

fees can be pretty high.

AFTER A DAY’S REST, CARLOS IS HIRED AGAIN,

this time to take us kayaking through the uninhabited

mangrove channels of Utwe-Walung Marine Park

towards the ocean. En route we stop to snorkel the

calm waters of Utwe's coral gardens, where we see

various sponges, tropical fish and a massive conger

eel. When we eventually reach the ocean, we swim out

through the breakers to see incredible mushroom-like

coral structures, in an assortment of vivid colours,

growing up from the seabed.

SPENDING A WEEK LOST ON KOSRAE IS

truly an ecotourist’s dream and the island’s

attractions are sufficiently numerous and varied.

Whether trekking through jungles, canoeing in

mangroves, marveling at Neolithic ruins or diving

pristine reefs, or simply doing nothing at all bar

escaping from today's stressful world,

this unspoilt Micronesian island wonder

is nothing short of a jewellery box for

travelling nature lovers. www.visitkosrae.com

italy’s rustic

lakeside newc

LAKE ISEO

ITALY

EXPLORING THE PASTORAL, PRE-

ALPINE LANDSCAPES OF NORTHERN

ITALY IN SEARCH OF LESSER-KNOWN

LAKES, EMILY MILLETT FINDS

A UNIQUELY UPSPOILT VALLEY

STEEPED IN BUCOLIC CHARM


DESTINATION

SPOTLIGHT

omer

Lake Iseo

Most cultured travellers

will be familiar with

the popular destinations

of Lake Como and

neighbouring Lake

Garda. Long established for their glitz and

glamour, as well as their undeniably stunning

landscapes, these two legendary lakes have

held celebrated audiences captive for generations.

But have you not heard about the smaller but

equally alluring Lake Iseo? Tucked in between

its limelight hogging siblings, this unspoilt

secret beguiles with the rustic authenticity of a

destination yet to be properly uncovered, hinting

at hidden secrets that make its discovery all the

more tempting.


107

Castro

AROUND AN HOUR’S DRIVE FROM MILAN

and 40 minutes from Bergamo in the province

of Brescia in eastern Lombardy, Lake Iseo is

the basin concluding River Oglio’s journey from

Ponte Di Legno, high in the Alps, down through

the lush Camonica Valley. In this endlessly green

gorge, the intrinsic bonds between a land and its

people are still strong and palpable.

Numerous age-old traditions, customs and

businesses live on through generations of fishermen,

farmers, artisans, wine producers and village

dwellers. With the well-preserved off-the-beaten track

beauty of the area inherent to its allure.

Home to just over 100,000 inhabitants, the valley

is one of the largest in the central Alps, spanning 90

kilometres from its highest height, more than 1,800


SPOTLIGHT

LAKE ISEO

metres above sea level in Passo Tonale.

Val Camonica (as it is known locally) is

characterised by rich landscapes of lakes,

forests, glaciers and grasslands, all peppered

with picturesque villages clinging to hillsides

or lining lakeshores. Italy’s first UNESCO

World Heritage Site since 1979, the area is

also a unique biosphere reserve, teeming with

natural and historical surprises. But despite

the diversity and richness of this destination,

its main allure is arguably Lake Iseo. For

while the landscapes around the lake make

visitors stop in their tracks and stare, it is

the lake’s velvety emerald depths that instil

a lasting sense of serenity and stillness in all

who see it.


109

SPOTLIGHT

LAKE ISEO

OF COURSE, IT’S NOT ALL PEACE, QUIET

and La Dolce Vita in the valley! Daily life bustles

around the lake, almost always married with an

enchanting, laid-back element. And whilst many

pretty villages of varying sizes adorn the lakeside,

the jewel in the valley’s crown is surely the quaint

commune of Monte Isola.

Poised majestically in the heart of the lake, the

floating atoll of Monte Isola is actually the largest

lake island, not only in Italy, but in all of South

and Central Europe. It is also one of the best

places to stay while exploring the area, complete

with 360° views of the lake from two sides of the

island and a handy little network of ferry boats

that acts as public transport, shuttling people

around day and night.

EUR 12 for a day pass, locals enjoy some of the

most incredible lake views during their daily

commute.

As the ferry nears its destination, Monte Isola’s

main harbour comes into view, leaving behind

equally inspiring mainland vistas. Alighting

the ferry at the fishing village of Peschiera

Maraglio on Monte Isola is to step into an almost

otherworldly place, steeped in rural appeal.

A LARGE PART OF THE PULL OF LAKE ISEO

and the surrounding Camonica Valley are their

untouched architecture and natural landscapes.

This means that there is a noticeable lack of super

luxe hotels lining the lake’s shores, which one

would find in their dozens in Como and Garda.

ARRIVING FROM MILAN OR BERGAMO, visitors

generally stop at the sleepy little village of Sulzano

to catch the ferry, which chugs directly across the

water to Monte Isola. Running every 15 minutes,

with their rows of blue plastic chairs, the humble

boats certainly have a small-town feel. And for just

Peschiera Maraglio

Lovere

Passata con funghi

But what Lake Iseo lacks in five-star luxury is

more than made-up by genuine, local hospitality

and elegant, understated lodgings.

Overlooking the village rooftops towards the

expanse of water beyond, from its perch above

Peschiera Maraglio, Residence Castello Oldofredi

is a stately and welcoming property housed

within a fabled stone castle that echoes with the

memories of its noble inhabitants. One of the best

accommodation options on Monte Isola, its rooms,

suites and apartments are dotted throughout the

restored medieval building. All ooze unpretentious

class. And like an eccentric artist’s grand summer

pile, the entirety of this charming property

radiates Renaissance Italian luxe. Soak up the

tremendous vistas from the hotel’s pool that peeks

out from behind the shade of olive groves. Or sit

out on the grassy terrace beside the restaurant

and enjoy the cool breezes with a chilled glass

of vino, as the sun sets and the lights begin to

twinkle across the inky stillness of the lake.

www.oldofrediresidence.it


111

SPOTLIGHT

LAKE ISEO

Loreto Island

FROM CASTELLO OLDOFREDI, WINDING

down the hillside from the hotel, steep, narrow

lanes shade passers-by. All lead to the water’s

edge, where fishing boats bump against each

other in the gentle swell of the lake and strings

of sardines dry in the sun. Decorative in their

own picture-postcard way, these dried lake fish

actually make up a staple part of the area’s unique

culinary offering.

The verdant landscape and region’s deep-rooted

agricultural and fishing history make for some

distinctive local variations of Italian cuisine.

Characterised by simple, traditional fare based

on old recipes that make the best use of seasonal

fresh produce, the food served around Lake Iseo

and throughout the valley is unfussy, comforting

and deliciously authentic. Think fresh seafood,

cured meats and local cheeses. The local pizzoccheri

flavoured with mountain herbs, a classic dish of

Lombardy, is simply divine.

FOR A LAKESIDE LUNCH THAT EMBODIES

the simple charm that typifies the region, head

around the island’s southern tip to the sleepy

fishing village of Sensole and Trattoria del

Sole. Exuding the laid-back Italianità that has

delighted travellers to the country for time

immemorial, this unpretentious eatery is all about

long languid lunches enjoyed on the water’s edge.

Here, al fresco dining under the dappled shade


of olive trees is complemented by a humble yet

mouth-watering menu of local delicacies. Start

with a selection of antipasti and follow with the

ravioli di pesce. And don’t miss the sardines

marinated in agrodolce. (+39 030 9886101)

For a more refined dining experience,

Ristorante Albergo La Foresta is one of the best

options in the area. Founded by two brothers

(one a fisherman, the other a chef) this familyowned

business serves polished Italian fare with

a contemporary twist, making the best

use of lake fish and local produce only. Be sure

to sample the delectable fish roe, bottarga di

lago, handmade by Chef Silvano.

www.forestamontisola.it/ristorante.php

Predore


113

Bersi Serlini

Casoncelli

THE AREA IS ALSO MAKING A NAME FOR

itself as one of Italy’s leading wine producing

regions. Famed for its rising star, sparkling

Franciacorta, a parcel of land between the

southernmost shores of Lake Iseo and the

foothills of Camonica Valley is designated as a

DOCG. At the top of the wine label pyramid, the

Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed

Origin certification is used to identify some of the

most prestigious Italian wines, including Barolo

and Amarone della Valpolicella.

Distinguished by high-quality bubbles and

produced in the same traditional méthode

champenoise process used in the Champagne

region of France, Franciacorta is more complex

than Prosecco and delivers much of the finesse

of its French counterpart, albeit with a much

shorter history. Only some 20 million bottles of

Franciacorta are produced annually, many of

which are drunk in Italy.

Taking advantage of the ideal climate for

viticulture, more than 120 wineries are packed

into the Franciacorta area, each producing wines

with different characters.

Located in Provaglio d’Iseo, Bersi Serlini is a

small, family-run winery with a rich history that

dates back to 1886. The ideal place for those who

enjoy the interaction between wine and nature,

it offers an intimate wine-tasting experience

of its excellent vintages set within traditional

12th century stone buildings once used by Cluny

monks. www.bersiserlini.it


SPOTLIGHT

LAKE ISEO

DAY TRIPPING IN CAMONICA VALLEY IS ALSO

a rich cultural experience. Dotted around the lake,

mighty castles watch over pretty villages nestled

into the same undulating curves and folds that

also hide impressive historical rock engravings and

thermal springs. One such spring is located near the

Dezzo river at the mouth of Val di Scalve, around 40

kilometres from Monte Isolo.

Set within a vast green park spanning more than

35,000 square metres, a visit to Angolo Terme spa

provides a welcome sojourn from touring. Whilst the

area’s therapeutic properties were only discovered

in the 20th century, its unique microclimate and

delightful surrounding nature have since made it a

destination for locals and travellers in-the-know.

https://termediangolo.it

LAKE ISEO AND THE PRE-ALPINE CAMONICA

Valley it calls home still have one foot proudly

entrenched in the past while they amble into the

future, tenderly enchanting visitors with tasty

foods, fine wines and a warm welcome. Thankfully

the bucolic rural landscapes, almost chocolate boxy

in their beauty, have deftly preserved customs and

cultures for a new generation of visitors to enjoy.

Indeed, cultured travellers need look no further than

this unspoiled quintessentially Italian

lakeside destination to indulge in some of

the finest things Italy has to offer.

www.bresciatourism.it/en

IMAGE: OLLIE ALI


MUSIC &

NIGHT

LIFE

sheku

KANNEH-MASON

CATAPULTED TO GLOBAL FAME AFTER WINNING BBC YOUNG MUSICIAN

AND PERFORMING AT THE WEDDING OF PRINCE HARRY AND

MEGHAN MARKLE, THE CELEBRATED CELLIST HAS ALREADY BUILT A

WORLDWIDE REPUTATION. THE 23-YEAR-OLD CHART-TOPPER TALKS TO

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT GROWING UP IN NOTTINGHAM

AND RACE ISSUES WITHIN CLASSICAL MUSIC

The Kanneh-Mason Family


117

From a young age, my

first teacher was very good

at putting performance

very much at the heart of

what we did

You were born into a very close-knit and musically

orientated family. How did this impact your childhood?

Massively, because it felt like music was very much a

natural part of my family life and something that we

could share and enjoy together. And the combination

of family and music meant that music always came

from a place of enjoyment.

When did you first touch and play a musical

instrument?

I started learning the piano when I was five or six.

But we always had a piano at home, so I probably

tinkled before then.

What kind of music were you exposed to

as a youngster?

It was always a mixture of musical genres, from

a young age. There was a lot of classical music, of

course, plus a lot of reggae and 90s hip-hop. We also

listened and often danced to Michael Jackson.

Tell us a bit about growing-up in Nottingham.

Nottingham has an amazing concert hall, which

I would say is one of the best in the UK, and very

cheap tickets for the under-18s meant that I could

watch some of the best orchestras and enjoy worldclass

classical music. To have been able to see and be


INTERVIEW

IMAGE: JARNO KRAAYVANGER

IMAGE: GUY LEVY

exposed to very high-quality music in Nottingham,

rather than having to have taken the train to

London, which would have been expensive, was

really important and valuable as I was growing up.

Nottingham is also a very open and creative city,

brimming with a variety of opportunities. I played

a lot of football. I went to the theatre. And there

is a unique sense of community and support in

Nottingham. It’s nice coming from a smaller city and

feeling that it supports you.

Which artist most influenced young Sheku musically?

Jacqueline du Pré had the biggest influence on me as

a cellist and a musician. Bob Marley also influenced

me. These two I’ve listened to most and have always

returned to. What both have in common is a very

direct commitment and honesty when it comes to

music, which I think is very, very special.

As a family, the Kanneh-Masons reached the semifinals

of series 9 of Britain’s Got Talent.

Did you enjoy it?

It was a fun experience, very different to the

anything I had done before and have done since. It

was good to perform live on television and useful to

understand everything that it entails. It took some

getting used to, I have to say, but I learned a lot from

appearing on Britain’s Got Talent.

Coming from an immigrant family of colour, have you

ever faced any issues of race within classical music?

For sure and all the time. Sometimes in small

ways and sometimes in big ways. Growing up, it is

difficult to see yourself doing something when no one

who looks like you is also doing it. I remember going

to a lot of concerts and being the only member of the

audience who was black,

apart from my family, and

certainly not seeing black

people on stage within

classical music and in

orchestras. Sadly, this is

still very much the case

today. So it was important

to have had the support,

help and encouragement

of my family, friends

and teachers, for which

I am incredibly grateful.

Without this support, it

would have been even

more difficult than it was.

When did you first perform as a solo cellist?

From a young age, my first teacher was very good at

putting performance very much at the heart of what

we did. This actually makes a lot of sense, given that

one of the most important ways to experience music is

through performance. At the end of each term or each

year, we’d have a class performance at which everyone

played and saw everyone else play. It was really nice

and inspiring to be a part of that. Of course, it meant

that there was a sense of occasion and pressure on

that performance. But the more I performed the more

natural it became and the more comfortable it felt.

In 2016, you were the first black musician to win the

BBC Young Musician competition. How did this affect

your career?

This very much started my career, because it is a

platform which a huge number of people watch. When

you look at the classical music scene in the UK, much

of it is shaped by winners of the BBC Young Musician

competition. I grew up seeing and being inspired

by people like Nicola Benedetti, Guy Johnston and

Jennifer Pike. The competition undoubtedly has a huge

influence on the shape of classical music within the

UK. To have won that competition was very important

and a turning point in my career.

Have you been able to use your position, as a successful

and well-known black musician, to help others?

I hope so. I think one of the most special feelings is

performing a concert and afterwards meeting a young

person who’s been inspired to take up the cello or become

interested in classical music through seeing me perform.

It’s a special feeling to be able to inspire others.

What was the first landmark concert hall

you played as a soloist?

The Barbican Hall, which is one the country’s finest

auditoriums. This is where the finals of BBC Young

Musician were held. Performing at Barbican Hall was

the first large concert venue in which I performed in a

professional setting. It honestly felt amazing. There’s

nothing that can really prepare you for playing in a

such a large concert hall, other than actually playing

in a concert hall that size. When I was younger,

Nottingham’s Royal Concert Hall gave me some slots

when I could spend a few hours practicing in the concert

hall alone to get used to the feeling. This was very

helpful, because most of the time I practiced in a small

room which was often a tiny box. So the few sessions

in the Royal Concert Hall were good preparation for

Barbican Hall.


119

Today you are in demand from renowned orchestras

and concert halls worldwide. Tell us about your most

memorable concert performance to date?

I have been very lucky to perform at many incredible

venues around the world which have inspired me

in different ways. Performing at the BBC Proms is

always a special occasion.

You were 19 when you performed at Prince Harry and

Meghan Markel’s wedding in 2018. How did you come

to be booked for such a notable event?

I was very lucky to have been asked to perform at

such an important and iconic occasion. And it was

a fun day. A year or so before the wedding, being

half Antiguan, I was invited to perform at an event,

attended by Prince Harry, which supported a charity

in Antigua. I have a lot of family in Antigua. A few

months later, Meghan called and asked me to perform

at their wedding. One of the most memorable parts of

the day was the journey to the wedding. I was driven

from my student house in London to St. George’s

Chapel at Windsor Castle with police outriders in

front and behind the car, which was cool!

Two of the three pieces you played at the

wedding were your recommendations.

How did you choose them?

They were pieces that I liked, I enjoy playing and

felt appropriate for the occasion. Two of the pieces

Sheku with his

sister Isata

I had recorded in the past. The other piece I had

been playing for a long time.

You were the first cellist in history to reach the UK

top 10 with your second album Elgar released in 2020,

and you have won two Classical BRIT Awards.

How does it feel to be breaking records at such a

relatively young age?

Everything has been happening to me at a relatively

young age! I’m aware of the fact that this can be

difficult for some young musicians to handle. But it

has always felt natural to me, not least because of

the people around me. I’ve always had an incredible

team supporting me, in terms of great teachers,

professional management and a supportive label.

Do you ever have time to travel for pleasure?

I have a hectic schedule crisscrossing the globe

for concerts, but I try to make time to travel for

pleasure too.

The favourite country you have visited to date?

Antigua. I love its beaches, the music, the weather

and the food. Antigua is a place where I feel relaxed,

free and open.

Tell us a bit about your latest album, Song. Song is

an honest and true representation of who I am as

a musician today and embodies the many musical

elements that make me the musician I am today,

including jazz, folk, pop and classical music.

How do you kick-back and relax?

I quite literally kick back and relax! I don’t get a lot

of free time, but when I do, I watch a lot of football

and TV. The variety of content on offer at the

moment, on streaming platforms like Netflix,

is amazing.

Any advice to young musicians starting out?

Make the most of the fact that you can easily listen

to almost anything that has ever been recorded.

This is one of the things that I have always been

most grateful for.

Your next big events?

On 10th September I’m playing the Last Night

of the Proms at the Royal Albert Hall. On 29th

September 2022, I’m playing Haydn’s Cello

Concerto No.1 in C and Cello Concerto No.2

in D, as well as pieces by Strauss and Ravel,

at the Royal Festival Hall with the wonderful

Philharmonia Orchestra.

www.shekukannehmason.com


INTERVIEW

I've always had an

incredible team

supporting me,

in terms of great

teachers, professional

management and a

supportive label

IMAGE: OLLIE ALI


121

A SOHO INSTITUTION

Since 1927

48 Greek Street

Soho, London W1D 4EF

Tel +44 (0) 20 7439 7474

info@lescargot.co.uk

IN THE EIGHTH ANNIVERSARY

EDITION, THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER VISITS RESTAURANTS

IN PARIS AND VIENNA PLUS

A RATHER SPECIAL WINERY IN

NORTHERN GREECE

TEKÉS

➤ PARIS, FRANCE

VIENNA’S FOOD SCENE

➤ AUSTRIA

Biblia Chora, Kavala, Greece

BIBLIA CHORA

➤ KAVALA, GREECE

NEWC

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU DISCOVERS

THAT THE COMING TOGETHER OF A HIGH-END

FITNESS CLUB, A COCKTAIL BAR AND A VIBRANT

ISRAELI VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT IS A PARISIAN

LIFESTYLE MARRIAGE MADE IN HEAVEN

TEKÉS

➤ PARIS, FRANCE

FROM ESCARGOTS

to écrevisse, France is

renowned for food and

some of the world’s best restaurants are

located in its capital. Not only is Paris a

gourmand’s paradise, boasting bistros,

brasseries, restaurants and fine dining to

suit all tastes and budgets, but due to its

longstanding association with food, the

City of Lights is often the setting for highend

restaurant débuts and the launchpad

for exciting new culinary concepts.

But when in Paris, it can sometimes

feel like the French don’t cater as well

as they could to vegetarians or those

who don’t consume animal products. I

am not one of them, but I do appreciate

vegetarian cuisine and more and more of

us have friends who don’t eat meat.

Renowned for their use of butter in

cooking and their predilection for meatbased

dishes, relatively few French

chefs, especially in Paris, are keen to

cook vegetarian fare. And even fewer

investors and restaurateurs are willing

to support vegetarian restaurants,

for fear of alienating a vast swathe of

potential customers throughout their

establishments. It is pretty obvious that

there is still a high degree of vegaphobia

in France, especially amongst older

French chefs and dedicated carnivores.

But times are changing in Paris, albeit

somewhat slower than the rest of the

culinary world.

LITERALLY JUST A HOP, SKIP AND

a jump from bustling Les Halles and

the Pompidou centre, Paris’ cheery

pedestrianised Montorgueil district

in the 2nd arrondissement has a

remarkably village-like feel. Referred

to as the belly of the capital in bygone

IMAGE: NAWEL ODIN

Aboukir

IMAGE: JOANN PAI


TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

IMAGE: JOANN PAI

Kussa

OMER

Couronne

IMAGE: JOANN PAI

IMAGE: BENJAMIN ROSEMBERG

days, for many centuries, Montorgueil

fed Paris and a large chunk of France

beyond, courtesy of wholesalers and

retail merchants who sold every

conceivable type of food.

Now in the heart of Paris due to the

expansion of the city, Montorgueil is

home to one of Paris' permanent street

markets, located on its main artery,

Rue Montorgueil, which is also lined

with a variety of food shops.

A vibrant thoroughfare at the center

of a thriving local community, walking

along Rue Montorgueil can take one

back to the bustling atmosphere of

yesteryear Paris, especially in the early

hours when delivery trucks abound.

Indeed, a number of historic, die-hard

local dining spots still exist in the

area today. One of them, L’Escargot

Montorgueil at number 38, was the

favoured eatery of Marcel Proust and

Salvador Dali and has been feeding

generations of Parisians since 1832.


125

THE DAILY PRESENCE OF A BUSY

market surrounded by a plethora

of boucheries, fromageries and

poissonneries tends to focus a French

neighbourhood on eating and drinking

and Montorgueil is no exception. In the

streets around the market, a variety of

new restaurants and bars have opened in

recent years, mostly in Rue Bachaumont,

Rue Greneta, Rue Saint-Sauveur and in

the Passage du Grand Cerf.

At number 4 Rue Saint-Sauveur,

it was a chance meeting between the

owner of a high-end gym, a group of

restaurateurs and a famous chef which

resulted in the opening of a rather

special vegetarian restaurant earlier

this year.

THE MARRIAGE OF A HIP FITNESS

club, a vibrant restaurant and a cocktail

bar may not seem like a natural one

on paper. One is a place to lift weights,

take classes and keep fit. The other is

a place to eat, drink and be merry. In

many ways they are at opposite ends of

the fitness spectrum. But designer gym

Klay and Israeli restaurant Tekés have

come together beautifully in a gorgeous,

renovated 19th century building in

Montorgueil. So much so, that if it

weren’t for the restaurant windows

to the street and the subtle signage,

you may very well walk past without

noticing that Klay and Tekés are even

there. But there they are and subtle

they are not. Au contraire..

OCCUPYING WHAT WAS ONCE

AN old book warehouse and designed

by architect Behar Cyril Durand,

Klay is a members-only industrialchic

gym offering a wealth of facilities

to its members who pay handsomely

for the privilege. The wet area in the

basement, comprising a swimming

pool, sauna, Turkish bath and jacuzzi,

is particularly stunning. From Rue

Saint-Sauveur, Klay is entered via

an enclosed brick courtyard which is

occupied by Tekés’ bar and some casual

dining areas. Seemingly open-air but

covered with a glass roof a few storeys

up, the warm and inviting space is

bathed in plenty of natural light and

feels alfresco. Here, during the day,

healthy food is served to-go together

with freshly squeezed fruits and

vegetables. At night, the space takes

on a completely different personality,

as funky music plays and the bar

comes alive with mixologists. A place

to meet gym buddies by day and friends

by night for pre-dinner cocktails, the

courtyard-cum-conservatory is an

ingenious interlude between Klay and

Tekés which works well.

TEKÉS' SEPARATE STREET

entrance leads to its main dining room,

complete with a small bar-like open

kitchen towards the front and

an open main kitchen in the belly of

the restaurant, presided over by head

chef Cecile Levy and her team. A warm

and earthy room punctuated by wood,

IMAGE: CECILE LEVY


Head chef Cecile Levy

TASTE & SIP

NEWCOMER

Mousse aux

champignons

Pasta pesto

Legally blond

IMAGE: JOANN PAI IMAGE: JOANN PAI IMAGE: JOANN PAI

marble, blown glass and hammered

metal, the restaurant’s décor tones

perfectly with its architectural setting

and provides an inviting space to enjoy

the natural, vegetarian food served

within its walls. Meanwhile the sounds

and heat of the fires blazing in the

kitchen warm the entire restaurant,

welcoming guests from the moment

they enter.

Unpretentiously fusing and creating

culinary dialogue between East and

West, Tekés is a natural gastronomic

celebration promoting the tastes of

Jerusalem, its modern vegetarian

cuisine inspired by the legacy of past

Israeli cooking techniques. The result

is a lively, Levantine vegetarian

restaurant like no other in France,

run by vivacious, engaging and fun

staff who contribute positively to every

diner’s Tekés experience. For to dine

at Tekés is to enjoy an experience,

not simply a meal. This is perhaps

unsurprising when one learns that the

people behind Tekés are the same as

the people behind Balagan, including

Israeli Michelin-starred chef Assaf

Granit, minus the l’Expérimental team.

At the helm of the kitchen at Tekés,

French born Cecile Levy learnt her

craft at Lycée Hôtelier de Marseille

before working in various top-end

kitchens in Israel. She attracted the

attention of Assaf Granit when she

competed in the Israeli TV series Game

of Chefs where he was her mentor. The

rest, as they say, is history.

Levy is visibly in command of

her creative domain at Tekés, yet

friendly and obviously completely

in sync with her team. The food she

produces is nothing short of moreish,

every dish lovingly executed. The

hummus I enjoy is quite possibly the

best I’ve ever tasted and the mouthfuls

of the feast that follow create pockets

of silence between my dining companion

and I, as the wealth of flavours sing

together and entertain my tastebuds.

Halfway through the meal, I declare

that I have never tasted vegetarian fare

so good anywhere. Yet we are

in Paris.

www.tekesrestaurant.com


127

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER DISCOVERS

THAT VIENNA’S THRIVING FOOD SCENE

IS TEEMING WITH EXEMPLARY AUSTRIAN

RESTAURANTS AND THOUGHTFULLY

REIMAGINED VIENNESE FARE

VIENNA

FOOD SCENE

THE GRAND CAPITAL OF

Austria has always been a

bastion of tradition, history

and elegance. Some would say that it is also

shy and retiring. Granted, Vienna is not the

most exciting of capitals and it is certainly

not a party city. But almost everywhere you

walk, the city impresses with its imposing

buildings, lavish palaces, lush parks, allround

grandeur and stately architecture.

Indeed, some of its buildings are stop-you-inyour-tracks

stunning.

For decades, Vienna’s food scene was largely

traditional and uninspiring. Featuring little

more than the global specialties which it

made its own when it was the capital of the

Habsburg Empire, if you had visited Vienna

after the turn of the millennium, there

was very little to write home about foodwise,

apart from the odd Michelin-starred

establishment serving over-fiddly food. But

times have changed in the Austrian capital

in the past 10 years and today the city’s food

scene is alive and blossoming courtesy of

a new generation of talented chefs striving

to bring Vienna into the gastronomic 21st

century. You only need drop anchor at NENI

in Naschmarkt to feel the culinary bohemia.

Slap bang in the middle of Naschmarkt

and run by an Israeli-Austrian family, NENI

was born in 2009 at this location, serving

tasty and moreish Israeli and Middle Eastern

fare. The brainchild of matriarch Haya

Molcho and her sons Nuriel, Elior, Nadiv

and Ilan (NENI), the food is so good that the

brand has since been exported across Europe,

mainly into 25Hours hotels. There are now a

dozen NENI restaurants on the continent.

In many ways, NENI was a catalyst

of the food revolution in Vienna, nudging

bohemian chefs to set out their stalls in the

Austrian capital, and causing the city’s food

scene to explode with new culinary concepts.

Today, visitors to the Austrian capital are

gastronomically spoilt, for they can find

almost every food trend within Vienna’s city

limits, not least vegan, organic, foraged,

farm-to-table, zero-waste and fermented.

Not to mention re-imagined Austro-

Hungarian fare.

To best appreciate the city's blossoming

food scene of today, one should start a

gastronomic break in Vienna by dining at a

landmark venue which has been serving up

top notch classic Viennese fare for almost 150

years: Café Landtmann.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU


129

Rudolph Lenzhofer

CAFÉ

LANDTMANN

LOCATED ON THE

Ringstrasse in the inner first

district, on a prominent corner

at 4 Universitätsring opposite

the Burgtheater, when Franz

Landtmann opened this

quintessential Viennese cafe in

1873, he essentially founded the

city’s coffee house institution.

Today the landmark restaurant,

coffee house and pastry shop all

rolled into one is a Viennese F&B

institution.

Café Landtmann is cosy,

traditional, familiar and brimming

with atmosphere from every pore,

for while the outside world has

changed in the past century and

a half, its interior still retains an

authentic old-world charm.

A favoured haunt of Gustav

Mahler, Sigmund Freud and

Marlene Dietrich back in the day,

today Café Landtmann is almost

always packed and buzzing. It

is a place where deals are done,

businessmen meet, families get

together, friends gather for lunch

and tourists stop to snap pics for

their social media. Many Viennese

routinely drop in for a coffee and a

piece of cake as they pore over the

daily paper.

Some of the waiting staff

are too rushed-off-their-feet for

pleasantries. But others, such as

Rudolf Lenzhofer, who presides

over the historic dining room and

has worked in the job for 27 years,

make visiting Café Landtmann a

uniquely enjoyable experience.

To get a feel for its classic,

well-executed Austrian and

Viennese cuisine, order some

signature dishes, put them in the

middle of the table and share. The

traditional tafelspitz (braised beef

in broth) and beef goulash are

not to be missed. Round-off the

meal with a selection of delectable

pastries and decadent Mozart

liqueur coffees.

www.landtmann.at


RESTAURANT

ROTE BAR

EPITOMISING THE CHARM

of Vienna’s most historic hotel,

Rote Bar is a mainstay of famed

family-owned Hotel Sacher and

is a glamorous champion of

Austrian cuisine.

Set within a gloriously

decadent red room hung with

period oil paintings and crystal

chandeliers and an adjoining

glass conservatory to the front

of the hotel, directly opposite

Vienna’s opera house, plush Rote

Bar serves refined, traditional

Austrian dishes and time honoured

Viennese classics supremely well,

with subtle contemporary touches.

Consistently making the best use

of the finest quality fresh produce

sourced from local suppliers, every

dish is exquisitely presented.

The service is attentive, polite

Tafelspitz

Sacher-Torte

TASTE & SIP

FOOD SCENE

and cannot be faulted. And in

the evenings, a pianist tinkles

the ivories at a baby grand to

complete the opulent tableaux.

In many ways, Rote Bar is the

bijou Rolls Royce of Austrian

restaurants in Vienna.

Start your meal with the goose

liver tarte and follow with the

Chateaubriand for two, and the

quality of the beef tenderloin will

render you speechless, as it did

The Cultured Traveller.

A rich chocolate cake

renowned globally as a

gastronomic symbol of Austria,

the nation’s most famous dessert,

Sacher-Torte, was invented in

1832 at Hotel Sacher. Hence it

would be criminal not to order a

slice, served with whipped cream,

to end your meal at Rote Bar on a

sophisticated and sweet high.

www.sacher.com

131

TASTE & SIP

FOOD SCENE

BOA Pork Roast

EUGEN21

NAMED AFTER PRINCE

Eugene Francis of Savoy, who

was a Habsburg dynasty army

field marshal during the 17th

and 18th centuries and died in

Vienna in 1736, Eugen21 is a

modern Austrian tavern which

imagines how the prince would

have dined in the 21st century.

It is located in the 10th district

on the street level of funky

lifestyle hotel Andaz Vienna Am

Belvedere, which was designed by

renowned architect Renzo Piano.

A spacious, warm and

unpretentious establishment,

in keeping with its theme of a

modern Austrian inn, the hearty

fare produced by talented chef

Richard Leitner and his team

seeks to combine old traditions

and contemporary gastronomy

in a meaningful way. This it

achieves admirably, making

the best use of fresh vegetables

and produce sourced from the

surrounding area.

Complimented by a wellpriced

wine list, standout on the

food menu is the restaurant’s

signature roast pork dish which

is unmissable when dining at

Eugen21. Using prime organic

meat from BOA farm in the

Lower Austrian Weinviertel on

Chef Richard

Leitner

the Austrian-Czech border, the

pork is roasted with beer, apricot

juice and vegetables. After

roasting, the pork is then stewed.

The resulting juice is lightly

set with butter before serving.

The result is undoubtedly one of

the best roast dinners in all of

Vienna.

www.restaurant-eugen21.at


A true local experience

for inspired cosmopolitans

CHEZ

BERNARD

IMAGES: LIZ PERDACHER

Shrimp cocktail

A SHORT WALK FROM

Museumsplatz, lovingly

designed Hotel Motto opened

last year occupying a historic

wedge-shaped 17th century

building on Schadekgasse and

Mariahilfer Strasse in the sixth

district, giving guests and

locals a slice of contemporary

Viennese life married with

1920s Art Deco-era Paris in a

different, vibey part of town.

Crowning the hotel on the top

floor is Chez Bernard, bedecked

in greenery and bathed in light,

which has already become

something of a social hub for

Viennese locals in-the-know,

fashionistas and the city’s

trendy set.

Partly contained within the

original building and partly

enclosed by a modern, angular

extension which provides a

Ceviche

stunning visual backdrop to the

restaurant’s bar, Chez Bernard

is a fashionable and happening

place to have breakfast, grab

a quick bite, indulge in a long

lunch, sip a few cocktails or

meet friends for dinner, with

a funky musical soundtrack

setting the stylish tone

throughout the day and night.

Award-winning chef Markus

Winkler is in charge of the

kitchen, which dispenses well

executed French-Austrian

bistro classics with a distinctly

Parisian feel, accompanied by

exemplary breads courtesy of

the hotel’s in-house bakery. A

rather good wine list features

a carefully curated selection of

some of Austria’s finest organic

and natural vintages.

Order some Fine de Claire

oysters to start (the shallot

vinaigrette is excellent)

followed by the restaurant’s

signature bouillabaisse of cod,

halibut, clams, crevettes and

mussels. The coq au vin made

with corn-fed chicken is a

culinary triumph. For dessert,

it’s worth waiting for Chez

Bernard’s chocolate fondant,

made with 70% Valrhona

Chocolat Noir and served with

homemade blackberry sorbet.

www.chezbernard.at

134 ISSUE 38 JUNE - AUGUST 2022

TASTE & SIP

FOOD SCENE

Beef Tartare

THE BANK

BRASSERIE

& BAR

LOCATED IN THE HEART

of the first district on Am

Hof Square, housed within

the imposing former HQ of an

Austrian bank, Park Hyatt

Vienna is an elegant and

stylish but unstuffy hotel. In

the center of the hotel, accessed

via the lobby or a dedicated

entrance on Bognergasse, The

Bank is the beating food and

beverage heart of the property

and is open pretty much all day

and night.

A vast and grand yet

welcoming space with soaring

ceilings, since Park Hyatt

Vienna opened in 2015, The

Bank has become a meeting

place for everyone from

Viennese socialites and local

businessmen to upscale tourists

and designer shoppers who

are attracted by consistently

fine fare, superb cocktails,

an impressive wine list and

a great value plats du jour

Chef István Törzsök

3-course menu at EUR 74

for two, including a glass of

champagne each.

Efficiently managed by

friendly Nadja Ibrahim, The

Bank focuses on turning out

reinterpreted brasserie classics

as well as some updated

Austrian dishes utilising

sustainable, well-researched

and locally sourced ingredients.

Diners can even watch their

meals being prepared by

the restaurant’s talented

Hungarian-born chef, István

Törzsök at his chef’s table, or in

a large open kitchen to one side

of the sprawling room.

Hand made with truffle,

confit egg yolk and mustard

caviar, The Bank’s beef tartare

is one of the best in Vienna.

Cooked on a lava stone grill,

the prime Atterox Tomahawk

steak for two is a showstopping

main course, served with

seared pimientos de padrón

and a divine onion relish. To

finish, order the Sour Cream

Schmarrn, which is also known

as Kaiserschmarrn. A classic

Austrian dessert that's also

popular in Bavaria, the dish

resembles a fluffy pancake

that’s cut into bite sized pieces

and served with hay milk ice

cream and a seasonal fruit

compote. Scrummy.

www.restaurant-thebank.com

TASTE & SIP

FOOD SCENE

Wiener Schnitzel

MEISSL &

SCHADN

SOMETHING OF A TEMPLE TO

Wiener Schnitzel, Meissl & Schadn

opened five years ago bearing an

old and much-loved restaurant

name dating back to the turn of the

20th century. Steeped in culinary

history, the original Meissl &

Schadn at 2 Neuer Markt opened

in 1896 and burnt down in 1945

during the liberation of Vienna at

the end of World War II.

Since the storied name stands

for everything that once made the

city's gastronomy memorable in

the minds of many Viennese, the

new restaurant has been incredibly

popular since it opened, not least

for its open schnitzel show kitchen.

Here, Austria's most famous dish is

lovingly and traditionally prepared

and pan fried to perfection, with

an unswerving and constant

Jürgen Gschwendtner

commitment to quality.

Cut from the finest quality

veal, the cutlets are expertly

pounded flat before being dredged

in free-range eggs and covered in

breadcrumbs from an artisanal

bakery. After being fried to the

perfect shade of golden brown,

the schnitzels are presented with

a choice of garnishes and sides

and delivered to eager diners

seated beneath a huge, glittering

chandelier worthy of such a

historic dish.

Made with hand-stretched

dough, the apple strudel is also

delicious, so be sure to leave room

for dessert. And for those keen

to learn the secrets to cooking

the perfect schnitzel, classes are

held every Tuesday, helmed by

the restaurant’s head chef Jürgen

Gschwendtner, no less.

https://meisslundschadn.at


Marinated salmon trout with

jalapeno cucumber broth

APRON

LOCATED IN THE THIRD

district of Heumarkt pretty close

to Vienna’s historic heart, APRON

is a one Michelin-starred fine

dining restaurant that skillfully

serves modern Austrian cuisine

in a contemporary and relaxed

setting without being pretentious.

This cannot be said for most of the

Austrian capital’s somewhat stuffy

Michelin starred establishments,

which makes APRON standout and

popular in Vienna.

Devoid of airs and graces yet

civilised and refined, APRON is

helmed by Lower Austrian native

and much lauded chef Stefan

Speiser. Having won a Michelin

star for his previous restaurant,

Opus, Speiser has an established

skill for bringing together the

finest seasonal produce in his

carefully considered dishes which

Chef Stefan

Speiser

IMAGE: LUKAS KIRCHGASSER

are precisely executed and

exquisitely presented, complete

with regional references which

firmly root them in Austria.

Differing textures and contrasts

add unusual accents to Speiser's

food, making dining at APRON

a fun experience. A semi-open

kitchen also offers diners an

insight into how their dishes

are prepared before arriving at

the table.

www.restaurant-apron.at

IMAGE: LUKAS KIRCHGASSER

Saddle of venison with pickled

beetroot and blackberries

EXPERIE

BIBLIA CHORA ➤ KAVALA, GREECE

HAVING BEEN

making it since around

2000 BC, wine has

unsurprisingly been an integral part of

Greek culture and society for centuries.

And in the ancient world, Greece was

one of the principal producers of wine.

Yet despite the country’s rich wine

heritage, modern Greek wines were

often overlooked and underrated, until

they relatively recently started winning

awards. Lots of awards.

We are not talking about retsina

here, although young Greek producers

are currently experimenting to offer a

new generation of Greece's most famous

wine. We are talking about Greek wines

hailing from all corners of Greece and

its stunning islands, that are so highly

regarded today by seasoned sommeliers

around the world, they appear on the

lists of some of the finest restaurants on

the planet.

IN NORTHERN GREECE, 100

kilometres from its second city of

Thessaloniki, known as the nation's

gastronomic capital, burnt grape seeds

dating back more than 6,000 years were

found in the prehistoric settlement of

Dikili Tash, near the archaeological

site of Philippi. And nearby Kavala

has been famous since antiquity for the

cultivation and quality of its wines.

SOUTHEAST OF SERRES AROUND

40 kilometres from Kavala, the little

known Pangaion Hills mountain range

is rich in flora, fauna, birdlife and

butterflies and is characterised by

significant biodiversity. Part of Mount

Pangaion was declared a permanent

wildlife refuge in 1979 and more than

700 plant species have been recorded in

the area, including some that are not

found anywhere else in Greece.

The area is punctuated by

picturesque mountain villages,

a multitude of monasteries and

impressive vegetation, beginning at

the foot of the mountains with typical

Mediterranean plants which slowly


NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU TRAVELS TO NORTHERN

GREECE TO VISIT ONE OF THE COUNTRY’S GREATEST

OENOLOGICAL TREASURES, THE WINERY OF BIBLIA CHORA

NCE

Ktima Biblia Chora

change, as the altitude increases, into

dense forests of beech, fir, chestnut,

plane and oak trees covering slopes and

ravines.

IT IS HERE, IN THE COASTAL

region of Pangaia within an unspoilt

part of Greece, that Vassilis Tsaktsarlis

and Vangelis Gerovassiliou set-up their

winery in 1998, nestled in the foothills of

the Pangaions, close to the sea.

The winery takes its name from a

sacred vine variety known as biblia

ampelos, which was first cultivated in

the area by the Phoenicians and from

which the ancient Greeks produced a

wine called Biblinos Oenos. According

to the writings of Greek poets

thousands of years ago, the region

became famous for vine growing and

was known throughout Ancient Greece

as Biblia Chora.

IT’S A RAINY AFTERNOON IN

December, with grey skies overhead,

when I arrive at modern-day Biblia

Chora winery for a personal showaround

and tasting. The imposing,

purpose-built main building, which

resembles a very large yet tasteful

stately home, sits directly in front

of striking Mount Pangaion. Vineyards

surround the building, at an altitude

of 380 metres above sea level, and my

eyes are drawn towards the Aegean

Sea in the distance, to the front of

the estate.

Sea breezes from the Strymonic Gulf

blow upwards towards Biblia Chora,


TASTE & SIP

EXPERIENCE

Vassilis Tsaktsarlis and

Vangelis Gerovassiliou

providing a Mediterranean climate by

day, a continental climate by night, hot

summers and mild winters. The region

is also renowned for plenty of wind

and cold nights, its wide diurnal range

encouraging the slow maturing of grapes

in a more balanced way. It was given

Protected Geographical Indication (PGI)

status in 1995.

The very stony, flinty soil with loam

and clay give Biblia Chora’s wines their

firm backbone, fresh natural acidity,

good tannin structure and noble finishes.

BIBLIA CHORA WELCOMES EVERY

day, by appointment, almost anyone to

its estate who has a love for Greek wine.

I’m a great fan of this ‘by appointment'

philosophy, not least because a few

of the vineyards that I used to enjoy

visiting are now sometimes over-run by

smartphone-wielding tourists with little

knowledge of oenology.

ALTHOUGH 16 YEARS APART IN

age, Gerovassiliou and Tsaktsarlis both

grew up in Epanomi and attended the

University of Thessaloniki followed by

the University of Bordeaux.

Gerovassiliou studied in Bordeaux

under Emile Peynaud before returning

to Greece in 1976 to work as oenologist

at Porto Carras. In 1981, he established

Ktima Gerovassiliou in Epanomi. Four

decades later, it is probably the most

famous Greek winery for all the right

reasons.

Tsaktsarlis also studied oenology

in Bordeaux, under Denis Dubourdieu

and Pascal Ribereau-Gayon, returning


141

TASTE & SIP

EXPERIENCE

in the summer months to work at Ktima

Gerovassiliou. After graduating at the

top of his class in Bordeaux in 1992,

Tsaktsarlis began working as oenologist

at Domaine Costas Lazaridis in Drama.

Soon he noticed the potential of grapes

from Kavala.

Together, Tsaktsarlis and

Gerovassiliou planted the first 7 hectares

of Ktima Biblia Chora’s vines in 1998

and their first wines were vinified in

2001. Now covering approximately 65

hectares, Biblia Chora was designed

from the get-go to be an organic winery,

combining their immense love for wine

and winemaking knowledge.

Their philosophy is to produce

excellent wines which exhibit the

unique characteristics of the area’s

terroir and Pangaia’s ecosystem. To

achieve this goal, all cultivation and

vinification techniques are applied

with special care, combining their

knowledge and experience alongside

winemaking traditions and modern

technology. All vineyard work at Biblia

Chora, including grape picking and leaf

thinning, is done by hand.

Tasting room

I AM WARMLY MET BY CHRYSANTHI

Economidou and my personal tour

begins, firstly of the wine-production

area and fermentation hall, followed

by the bottling line, which is in full

swing during my visit. We talk about

the criteria for the organic cultivation

of wines and the various varieties

produced at the winery, including wines

produced from an uncategorised Greek

grape variety, discovered by Tsaktsarlis

in 2002 in an old vineyard set on a

rough part of Mount Pangaion, outside

the estate. The story surrounding the

discovery of this grape, and Biblia

Chora’s efforts to showcase and

produce high-quality wines from it,

are fascinating stuff and testament to

Tsaktsarlis’ intense passion for his craft.


Before long, we move downstairs to the

bottle maturation rooms and impressive

underground cellars and my tour ends in

the wine tasting room where informality

is key. Despite first impressions, Biblia

Chora is not a stuffy or pretentious

winery, which makes the enjoyment of

visiting all the more pleasurable. The

wine tasting takes place at a large bar,

which dominates one corner of the huge,

but not over-done space.

I CANNOT BE SURE, BUT I BELIEVE

that I taste some 16 wines before we are

joined by hospitable Tsaktsarlis, who

breaks out some incredible old

red vintages which are spectacular in

their depth.

Of all the wines I taste, the ones

than most impress (me) are unoaked

white blend Sole Vidiano, its skillful

marriage of Cretan Vidiano (92%) and

8% Assyrtiko creating a remarkable

full-flavoured freshness that’s rich on

the palate. And one of Biblia Chora’s

most recognised wines, Ovilos red,

which has won countless awards, not

only in Greece but internationally.

100% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged

for 16 months in new French oak

barrels, staying in the bottle for two

years before release, this rich, complex

and full-bodied red is an enduring

showstopper.

A wine which surprises me (and

I have since ordered in restaurants)

is fresh, new-world South Africanstyle

Sole Pinot Noir. Delicate, dry,

sophisticated and summery on the

palate, this wine delights on all levels.

LASTLY, I TASTE RED BIBLINOS

Oenos, made from the uncategorised

Greek grape discovered by Tsaktsarlis

on Mount Pangaion. Elegant with

a divine, spicy nose of cassis,

pomegranate and other dark fruits,

Biblinos Oenos boasts a unique depth.

Convinced that this wine will age

beautifully, I vow to return to

Biblia Chora and the beautiful

Pangaions next year to sample

the same wine again.

https://bibliachora.gr/en


143

LITTLE BLACK BOOK

WEB ADDRESSES FOR EVERY DESTINATION AND VENUE MENTIONED IN THE

EIGHTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE

INDEX

AAL AZHAR PARK

➤ www.azharpark.com

AL MASAR GALLERY

➤ www.almasargallery.com

AMAN NEW YORK

➤ www.amannewyork.com

ANGOLO TERME SPA

➤ https://termediangolo.it

ANIMASYROS

➤ www.animasyros.gr

APRON

➤ www.restaurant-apron.at

ARAMNESS GIR

➤ www.aramness.com

BBERSI SERLINI

➤ www.bersiserlini.it

BIBLIA CHORA

➤ https://bibliachora.gr/en

BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL

➤ www.bfi.org.uk/lff

BORGO SANTANDREA

➤ borgosantandrea.it

BRAEMAR GATHERING

➤ www.braemargathering.org

BRITISH AIRWAYS

➤ www.britishairways.com

CCAFÉ LANDTMANN

➤ www.landtmann.at

CAIRO OPERA

➤ www.cairoopera.org

CAMONICA VALLEY

➤ www.bresciatourism.it/en

CHEZ BERNARD

➤ www.chezbernard.at

CITADEL OF SALADIN

➤ https://egymonuments.gov.eg

COPTIC CAIRO

➤ www.coptic-cairo.com

EEGYPTIAN MUSEUM


EUGEN21

➤ www.restaurant-eugen21.at

FFINNAIR

➤ www.finnair.com

FRANKFURT BOOK FAIR

➤ www.buchmesse.de

GGRANITA CAIRO

➤ https://granita-cairo.

business.site

HHABITAS BACALAR

➤ www.ourhabitas.com

HACIENDA ALTAGRACIA

➤ www.aubergeresorts.com

HAMAD INTERNATIONAL

AIRPORT

➤ https://dohahamadairport.com

HENLEY & PARTNERS

➤www.henleyglobal.com

JJAZZFEST BERLIN

➤ www.berlinerfestspiele.de

LLAKE ISEO

➤ www.bresciatourism.it/en

NNATIONAL MUSEUM OF

EGYPTIAN CIVILIZATION

➤ www.nmec.gov.eg

NEW YORK CITY WINE

& FOOD FESTIVAL

➤ www.nycwff.org

OOKTOBERFEST

➤ www.oktoberfest.de/en

ONAM

➤ www.onamfestival.org

ON RESIDENCE

➤ www.onresidence.gr

PPACIFIC TREELODGE RESORT

➤ www.kosraetreelodge.com

PALÁCIO LUDOVICE

➤ www.palacioludovice.com

PAUL VAN DYK

➤ www.paulvandyk.com

PLAY

➤ www.flyplay.com

RRAFFLES SINGAPORE

➤ www.raffles.com/singapore

RAFFLES UDAIPUR

➤ www.raffles.com/udaipur

REGATA STORICA DI VENEZIA

➤ www.regatastoricavenezia.it/en

RESIDENCE CASTELLO

OLDOFREDI

➤ www.oldofrediresidence.it

RESTAURANT ROTE BAR

➤ www.sacher.com

RISTORANTE ALBERGO

LA FORESTA

➤ www.forestamontisola.it

SIX SENSES FORT BARWARA

➤ www.sixsenses.com

SOLO SOKOS HOTEL TORNI

➤ www.sokoshotels.fi/en

STRAWBERRY FIELDS

➤ www.strawberry-fields.com.au

TTEKÉS

➤ www.tekesrestaurant.com

TERESA HELBIG

➤ https://teresahelbig.com

THE BANK BRASSERIE & BAR

➤ www.restaurant-thebank.com

THE NILE RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL

➤ www.ritzcarlton.com

THE STANDARD, IBIZA

➤ www.standardhotels.com

THE WELL

➤ www.the-well.com

THE WOODWARD

➤ www.oetkercollection.com

VVILLAGE HALLOWEEN PARADE

➤ www.halloween-nyc.com

VIRGIN ATLANTIC

➤ www.virginatlantic.com

VISIT KOSRAE

➤ www.visitkosrae.com

W

WOLFGANG PUCK

➤ https://wolfgangpuck.com

ZZAMALEK GALLERY

➤ zamalekartgallery.com

ZÖÖBA

➤ www.zoobaeats.com

DDIWAN BOOKSTORE

➤ www.diwanegypt.com

DUKE'S CAMP

➤ www.naturalselection.travel

MMEISSL & SCHADN

➤ https://meisslundschadn.at

MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC

ART, CAIRO


SSHEKU KANNEH-MASON

➤ www.shekukannehmason.com

SHINTA MANI WILD

➤ https://shintamani.com


TRAVEL TIPS FROM THE TOP

nicholas

chrisostomou

TRAVEL ADDICT, SEASONED FLYER

AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OF THE

CULTURED TRAVELLER, NICHOLAS

CHRISOSTOMOU SHARES HIS SECRETS

FOR SURVIVING HIS HECTIC LIFE OF

PRESS TRIPS AND GLOBETROTTING

PACKING I have duplicates of

everything important (electric

toothbrush, toiletries bag,

vitamins, charging cables, etc.)

so when it comes to packing for

a trip, the basics are already in

my case and I’m never without

my essentials when I reach a

destination.

LUGGAGE I’m not a fan of

expensive luggage, because

if you travel as much as I

do, it’s bound to get bashed

or damaged, and pulling

a dented new Rimowa off

a luggage carousel is not a happy

start to anyone’s trip. Having had too

many suitcases destroyed by airlines

or baggage handlers, I am currently

travelling with a hard-sided Samsonite

which has lasted almost three years and

is still going. It’s not the sexiest of cases,

but it’s bloody tough, and it also does a

good job of protecting bottles, which is

handy when bringing home a gin from

overseas!

CARRY-ON I like the flexibility of a

leather holdall and a small, separate

laptop bag. Both will usually fit under

a seat, which means they’re close to

me during a flight and I can retrieve

bits and bobs easily. I very rarely put

anything in overhead bins.

SKINCARE

I swear by

Body Shop’s

Elderflower

Eye Gel - I’ve

been using it

for years. The

same goes for

Carmex for

my lips. Luckily I

don’t need to be prissy about the

moisturisers I use on my face, but

if I had to choose one, it would be

A.D.C. 01 created by make-up artist

Adam de Cruz. It feels amazing on

my skin.

➤ www.adcbeauty.com

MUSIC I literally cannot be without

music morning, noon and night,

especially on a plane, so I travel with

JBL Under Armour Flash X in-the-ear

headphones, which are great for sound.

The case is a little clunky but it provides

dozens of hours of playtime. I

also carry a pair of Apple

AirPods which are the

best for having a

conversation.

IN-FLIGHT If I’m not working on my

laptop, I try to relax on a flight, because

organised chaos usually ensues once I

reach a destination for work and I literally

don’t stop if I’m on a press trip. I treasure

my quiet and personal time on a plane and

I generally avoid connecting to in-flight

wi-fi.

LONG-HAUL On recent flights

to Asia, I changed into a pair of

PJ bottoms and a long-sleeved

t-shirt both by British Boxers

➤ https://british-boxers.com. I

love their quality. Changing

clothes on long flights is a must

for me. I also put on some comfy

cashmere socks. And I almost

always have a large, shawllike

lightweight batik scarf by

Arizali in my carry-on, which is

multi-purpose.

ARRIVING After a long flight,

I put on a fresh, grey marl

t-shirt before landing, brush my

teeth, apply some eye gel and

freshen my face with whatever

moisturiser is handy. I also have

a little spritz of my favourite

scent - Aoud Crystal by Roja

Dove. His 7.5ml ‘Discovery

Atomisers’ are perfect for

travelling.

➤ https://rojaparfums.com


ENJOY WINTER, HELSINKI STYLE.

Löyly, an architectural sauna and restaurant in the heart of Helsinki,

was named one of the World’s 100 Greatest Places by Time Magazine.

Follow us @loylyhelsinki

(39) The Cultured Traveller - Eighth Anniversary Edition, September-November 2022 Issue 39

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