(27) The Cultured Traveller - Fifth Anniversary Edition, September-November 2019 Issue 27

FIFTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION

ISSUE 27

SEP-NOV 2019

WARSAW

TWA HOTEL • HAMBANTOTA • DAVID GUETTA

JULIEN MACDONALD • HAMBURG • CHERNOBYL • ST ANDREWS

ONE OF KACHI LODGE’S SIX SPACE STATION-LIKE GEODESIC GUEST DOMES, AT THE FOOT

OF TUNUPA VOLCANO ON BOLIVIA’S SALAR DE UYUNI, THE LARGEST SALT FLAT ON THE PLANET

HIGHLIGHTS

FIFTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION

SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2019

44 WARSAW RISES AGAIN

Decades of communist control bleached the colour from life in the Polish capital, but 30 years since

independence, the city is rising again. Today, up-and-coming areas are being revitalised by urban

renewal projects, riverside parks provide space to breathe for the city’s upwardly mobile population

and award-winning museums and galleries are dedicated to exploring Polish culture and identity.

Joe Mortimer uncovers the heart of 21 st century WARSAW

146 BEYOND THE BEATEN TRACK

Perched at the tip of Cape Cod, PROVINCETOWN combines small-town charm with big‐city culture.

Alex Benasuli makes the 90-minute crossing from Boston to explore the colourful seaside hamlet

nestled amongst miles of peaceful dunes yet seemingly at the end of the earth

102 CRYSTAL CLAD GLOBETROTTER

When he isn’t launching supermodels down the runway attired in his trademark sparkling gowns,

JULIEN MACDONALD loves nothing more than to travel the world. The Cultured Traveller catches-up

with the globetrotting fashion designer

166 THE PERFECT FINNISH G&T

There’s absolutely no doubt that ‘mother’s ruin’ is the spirit of the moment and we’re still in the

middle of a full-on gin renaissance. Nicholas Chrisostomou visits the first private distillery to open

in the Finnish capital for over a century

42 MALDIVIAN DREAM PRIZE

On the remote southern tip of the Maldives archipelago, Raffles Maldives Meradhoo is as far removed

from the rhythm of everyday life as it possibly could be. One lucky reader will win a four-night half

board stay in a private beach villa for two at this paradise resort

PHOTO COURTESY OF AMIT GERON

Sep-Nov 2019 The Cultured Traveller 5

42

62

44

170

CONTENTS

8 EDITOR’S LETTER

10 CONTRIBUTORS

14 NEWSFLASH

We round-up the most fascinating

cultural experiences and unmissable

festivals happening around the world

in the coming months, including the

BRAEMAR GATHERING in Scotland,

attended by British royalty; India’s

ONAM harvest festival in Kerala;

Niger’s spectacular male beauty

parade, CURE SALÉE; Greece’s

animation festival, ANIMASYROS 12;

Ireland’s world famous opera festival

in WEXFORD and New York City’s 46 th

annual VILLAGE HALLOWEEN PARADE.

22 REST YOUR HEAD

The Cultured Traveller checks into

space station-like KACHI LODGE on

the world’s largest salt flat in Bolivia;

glamorous new SINNER hotel, in the

heart of Paris’ charismatic Marais

quartier; Urban Resort Concepts’

striking new property, THE PUXUAN,

located on the edge of Beijing’s

Forbidden City; understatedly groovy

SIR VICTOR hotel, a stone’s throw

from Gaudí’s Casa Milà in Barcelona,

and recently revamped MASSERIA

TORRE MAIZZA estate, on the Adriatic

coast in north-eastern Puglia.

94 SUITE ENVY

Proudly standing in a prime position

on the western side of Inner Alster Lake,

commanding the attention of Germany’s

handsome second city, Fairmont Hotel

Vier Jahreszeiten is a true grande dame

in every sense of the phrase. Treading

in the footsteps of some of the world’s

richest 20 th century shipping magnates,

Nicholas Chrisostomou drops anchor

in one of Germany’s most opulent

hotel suites.

104 BOARDING PASS

There was a time when flying was

considered glam and exclusive and

boarding a jet cost an awful lot more

than it does today. The Cultured

Traveller steps back into the Golden

Age of Travel at retro-chic Eero

Saarinen-designed TWA HOTEL,

which instantly became the

world’s coolest airport hotel when

it opened a few months ago at JFK.

114 NO SHOES REQUIRED

In the very south of Sri Lanka, crystal

clear seas, magnificent beaches, a

wealth of archaeological sites and

an opportunity to witness first-

114

160

104

146

hand some of Sri Lanka’s most

spectacular wildlife make this

part of the island worthy of closer

inspection. Using Shangri-La’s

sprawling resort as a base, Carolyn

McKay explores the lesser trodden

region surrounding HAMBANTOTA.

136 SPOTLIGHT

Such is the draw of dark tourism,

that long before the HBO drama

Chernobyl appeared on our screens,

more than 10,000 people had already

visited the former nuclear site, despite

the fact that it had only been open to

the public since 2011. Carl Roberts

is drawn to the strikingly haunting

exclusion zone surrounding the site of

the world’s greatest nuclear disaster.

122 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Exploring its cobbled streets and

narrow pends from the luxe surrounds

of The Kingdom Of Fife Suite at

Fairmont St Andrews resort, Nicholas

Chrisostomou discovers that there

is much to do in of one of Scotland’s

oldest towns aside from playing golf.

154 TASTE & SIP REVIEW

Alex Benasuli joins Miami’s hipsters

at ALTER in Wynwood, for some

serious eating at a restaurant which

is redefining modern fine dining.

160 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER

Alex Benasuli dines on top notch

Greek fare at Costas Spiliadis’

newest MILOS restaurant, located

slap bang in the centre of one of

the planet’s most highly anticipated

urban regeneration schemes:

Hudson Yards in Manhattan.

176 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

Adrian Gibson chats to the men’s

fashion director for Bergdorf

Goodman, BRUCE PASK, about

working with Annie Leibovitz, styling

the cast of Friends to look like a

‘30s circus troupe and his favourite

European fashion week destinations.

170 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

A titan of a scene that has brought

EDM from the fringes into the

mainstream over the past decade,

superstar French DJ DAVID GUETTA

talks to The Cultured Traveller about

his life and career, collaborating with

Sia and his favourite places in Paris.

184 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

94

176

122

154


Clockwise from left to right,

Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten

Hamburg: TWA Hotel; Warsaw;

St Andrews; Provincetown.

EDITOR’S LETTER

Who would have thought,

thirty odd years ago, that

the wasteland surrounding

the now defunct Vladimir Ilyich

Lenin Nuclear Power Plant would become

a tourist destination? As well as attracting

inquisitive visitors, Chernobyl recently

announced that it would begin producing

its own Atomik vodka, made from crops

grown in the exclusion zone. I’ve no doubt

it will be priced as a premium product

and quickly become a best seller, if only

for its novelty value. Herein lies one of the reasons I am so

fascinated by travel, increasingly so as I visit new places,

meet new people and discover new and incredible sights: the

travel landscape is constantly evolving to feed the curiosities

of an increasingly well-travelled population. There has

never been a better time to adventure to that country you’ve

always wanted to explore, or plan a trip to that faraway island

so-and-so told you about, not least because something

new and fascinating is always just around the corner.

In this, the fifth anniversary edition of The Cultured Traveller,

we endeavour to reveal the extent of our ever-expanding

travel canvas, journeying from Provincetown in the States

via Chernobyl in Eastern Europe to Hambantota in Asia.

Along the way, we chat with British fashion designer Julien

Macdonald and superstar French DJ David Guetta, roadtest

restaurants in Miami and New York, and feature a

space-age hotel on Bolivia’s salt flats and a new Parisian

property situated within the 1300s buildings of the Marais.

We step back into travel’s golden age

at Eero Saarinen’s retro-chic TWA Hotel

at JFK airport (page104) and explore the

cobbled streets of St. Andrews, one of

Scotland’s oldest towns (page122). Joe

Mortimer uncovers the cultured heart

of 21 st century Warsaw as the reinvigorated

city rises again (page44), while I tread in

the footsteps of some of the world’s richest

20 th century shipping magnates at one of

Germany’s most historic hotels (page94).

Every issue of a global travel magazine should be a

celebration of all the incredible places to see around

the world, but a birthday edition demands even more.

I hope you enjoy taking this epic journey with us and I

thank all readers of The Cultured Traveller for your loyal

support during the past five years. Here’s to many more

years dedicated to uncovering the places, people and

destinations that make this planet so extraordinary.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief

8 The Cultured Traveller Sep-Nov 2019

CONTRIBUTORS

JOE MORTIMER

CITY FOCUS ON WARSAW

A U.K.-based writer who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality,

Joe has visited 60 countries and stayed in more than 100 luxury hotels, as

well as having dined in some of the world’s best restaurants and interviewed

a number of legendary chefs including Pierre Gagnaire and Nobu Matsuhisa.

ADRIAN GIBSON

STYLISH GLOBETROTTER INTERVIEW

A professional fashion buyer for more than two decades, Adrian is an avid

shopper and enjoys nothing more than visiting stores, meeting designers

and supporting new talent wherever and whenever he’s travelling the globe,

as well as keeping a keen eye on the latest trends for The Cultured Traveller,

both on the world’s most fashionable streets and online.

ALEX BENASULI

BEYOND THE BEATEN TRACK

London-based Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. A twodecade

career in finance took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India,

Indonesia and all over the Far East. Today, Alex has a keen appreciation

for combining luxury, highbrow urban adventures with alternative,

off-the-beaten-track destinations plus yoga and wellness experiences.

CARL ROBERTS

SPOTLIGHT ON CHERNOBYL

Carl is a certified Ashtanga yoga teacher, music lover, club DJ and travel

enthusiast based in Muscat. When he’s not planning his next trip, you’ll

find him running, paddle-boarding, exploring the mountains around Oman

with his dogs or simply enjoying good food and quality time with friends.

CAROLYN MCKAY

NO SHOES REQUIRED

Via her teaching, photography and writing, Carolyn has lived

in Jakarta, London and New York and travelled to numerous

destinations in between. Currently based in Sri Lanka and using

her Indian Ocean base to explore Asia, Carolyn loves nothing more

than exploring markets, quality coffee and people watching.


COVER IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / PHOTOCREO MICHAL BEDNAREK

OUTLOOK

CROATIA

Offering something

for pretty much everyone,

in recent years Croatia

has become one of the most popular

festival destinations in mainland Europe.

During five days towards the end of

summer and billed as “the largest sound

system culture festival in Europe”, Outlook

brings together some of the biggest

names from the most vibrant and cutting

edge hip-hop, grime, reggae, techno and

dub music scenes in a celebratory fusion

of musical genres. Held in the abandoned

19 th century Fort Punta Christo, perched

over the dazzling Adriatic Sea close to the

historic city of Pula in Croatia’s northern

region of Istria, party goers can chose

to let rip in a collection of truly spectacular

locations set in and around the fort,

including a dungeon, a courtyard, a moat,

a boat, the beach or the festival’s

main stage set on a harbour. Outlook

combines a heady mix of fun in the sun

and under the stars sound sensations.

Headlining Outlook’s final year at Fort

Punta Christo is hugely successful British

electronic music duo Chase & Status.

4-8 September 2019

www.outlookfestival.com

BRAEMAR GATHERING

SCOTLAND

Attended by HRH

Princess Anne and

the Duke of Fife,

these old military exercises remain the

same as they have for hundreds of

years yet have grown into a worldwide

exhibition. Everything from traditional

tug-of-wars and caber-tossing to

dance competitions and solo bagpipe

performances are used to determine the

skill, prowess and endurance of those

competing. Often divided into categories

of heavyweight competition, dance

and music, the burly strongman esque

events have evolved into something of

a Scottish rite of passage. The caber

toss is considered by many to be

Scotland’s signature event and sees logs

of more than a dozen feet long carried

by hulking men and women. Other

more inventive ways of pitting man

against man include the Maide Leisg,

when two men sit on the ground, with

the soles of their feet pressed against

each other and, holding a stick between

their hands, pull back and forth until

one of them raises off the ground.

7 September 2019

www.braemargathering.org


ONAM

INDIA

Stretching for just

under 600 kilometres

along the Malabar

Coast and isolated from the Indian

interior by the Western Ghats, the

slender coastal state of Kerala is defined

by its varied and layered landscape, not

least hundreds of kilometres of glorious

coastline and beaches fringed by

the Arabian Sea. Having been exposed

to so many foreign influences, Kerala is

a world away from the rest of India and

has developed a unique culture, not only

with its own language, Malayalama, but

also a diverse religious tradition.

According to popular legend,

Onam harvest festival is celebrated to

welcome King Mahabali, whose spirit

is said to visit Kerala at the beginning

of Chingam, the first month of the

Hindu Malayalam calendar. This is a

time when, after three months of heavy

rains in India, the skies become clear

and blue again, forests turn a lush

deep green, lakes and rivers overflow

and lotuses and lilies are in full bloom.

People put flower mats in front of their

houses to welcome the king, reap

the harvest, celebrate and generally

rejoice. Traditional activities during

Onam are centered around worshipping,

music, dancing, sports and, above

all else, eating good food. The most

impressive part of the festival is a grand,

nine-course feast called Onasadya,

prepared on Thiruvonam, consisting

of more than a dozen dishes.

11 September 2019

www.onamfestival.org

CURE SALÉE

NIGER

The end of the

rainy season is an

incredibly important

event for Saharan

pastoralists, whose lives are wholly

concerned with the raising of livestock,

namely, the care, tending and use of

animals such as goats and cattle to

affect their environment. Every midlate

September, towards the end of

the rainy season, clans gather at the

salt flats and pools near the tiny West

African town of In-gall, in the Agadez

region of northeast Niger, to refresh

their herds and prepare for the trip

south so they can survive the dry

season. But before heading south, tens

of thousands of nomads converge on

In-Gall to celebrate Cure Salée - an

annual gathering that serves as a

harvest festival, marketplace and tribal

gathering. Plus, most importantly,

a spectacular male beauty parade.

Here the roles are reversed, since

it is the men who paint their faces,

don ceremonial costumes and sing

and dance to impress the female

judges, in an effort to be named the

most attractive man of their clan. The

talent portion of the show, known as

Yaake, is akin to line dancing, with

men swaying shoulder-to-shoulder,

singing and chanting in a hypnotic

fashion, fuelled by a stimulating tea

made of fermented bark, rumored to

have a hallucinogenic effect, enabling

them to dance wildly, often non-stop,

for hours on end.

Mid-late September 2019

ANIMASYROS 12

GREECE

For a quiet slice of

genuine Greek island

bliss minus the crowds,

Syros is hard to beat. One of the smallest

Cycladic islands and located roughly 125

nautical kilometres south-east of Athens,

Syros is easily accessible from the Greek

mainland via fast ferry craft during the

summer months.

Syros’ international animation

festival is the largest of its kind in

Greece and one of the twenty most

important globally. Animasyros started

in 2008 and is wholly dedicated

to Europe’s animation narrative. Held in

Hermoupolis, the capital of the Cycladic

islands, Animasyros comprises special

screenings; tributes to international

animation festivals, artists and studios;

media literacy activities for children,

youngsters and adults; parties and

numerous parallel events. This year,

Animasyros launches an Agora

animation market section, which the

festival organisers hope will become a

hub for creative professional networking.

More than 200 animation films will also

be screened, plus the festival features

three separate international competition

sections, for professional, student and

feature films. Animasyros is free and

takes place at the imposing Apollo Theatre

(pictured), the Hermoupolis Cultural

Centre, the University of the Aegean,

Miaouli Square and other locations within

the beautiful neoclassical town

of Hermoupolis. 18-22 September 2019

www.animasyros.gr


BFI LONDON

FILM FESTIVAL

U.K.

Featuring 225 films

hailing from 77

countries screened

in 14 cinemas over twelve days

just about sums up the 63 rd annual

BFI London Film Festival, which

showcases original movies by

both world-renowned and emerging

filmmakers. This year’s opening night

gala will be The Personal History of David

Copperfield, directed by the multiaward-winning

writer, filmmaker and

broadcaster Armando Iannucci, who was

born in Glasgow to Italian parents and

is one of the most talented and original

filmmakers in the U.K. today.

Billed as a fresh take on Dickens’

classic autobiographical tale of one

young man’s journey into adulthood,

juggling his ambitions to become a

writer with his conscience about poverty

in Victorian London and his duty of

care towards his eccentric aunt, the

film boasts a stellar British cast led by

BAFTA Award winner Dev Patel as David

Copperfield (pictured). Starring alongside

Patel are Academy award-winning

Tilda Swinton, Hugh Laurie, Peter

Capaldi, Ben Whishaw, Paul Whitehouse

and Gwendoline Christie, many of

whom are expected on the red carpet at

the Odeon Luxe in Leicester Square

for the movie’s European premiere on

Wednesday 2 nd October 2019.

2-13 October 2019 http://bfi.org.uk/lff

CAFE BUDAPEST

CONTEMPORARY

ARTS FESTIVAL

HUNGARY

Bisected by the

River Danube,

which separates

the hilly Buda district from flat and

sprawling Pest, one rarely needs

an excuse to visit the beautiful

Hungarian capital of Budapest. Yet,

the 28 th incarnation of CAFe Budapest

festival offers an opportunity to

attend more than one hundred

events at over forty venues across

the Hungarian capital, including

the city’s enormous cultural

complex, Művészetek Palotája.

Spanning seventeen days, besides the

work of Béla Bartók, this year’s festival

focuses on the worth of another major

Hungarian composer, Péter Eötvös. The

festival program always covers an

incredibly wide spectrum and showcases

a range of musical genres and

performance art, from classical music

to theatre premieres, popular music and

jazz, to dance and visual art, as well as

providing a platform for contemporary

dance, circus acts, fine arts, design and

photography. For 2019, CAFe Budapest

affiliated events will again include the

Budapest Ritmo world music festival,

the Art Market Budapest and the Margó

Literary Festival and Book Fair.

4-20 October

2019 www.cafebudapestfest.hu

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS

MUSIC FESTIVAL

U.S.A.

A hotbed for technology,

start-ups and

innovation, and one of

the best cities in the

States to start a new business, the Texan

metropolis of Austin has repeatedly been

voted the best place to live in America

based on affordability, job prospects

and quality of life. Once a year, all of

Austin’s many qualities come together at

Zilker Metropolitan Park in the south of the

city – a beautiful recreational area of more

than 350 acres at the juncture of Barton

Creek and the Colorado River – for the

hugely popular ACL Music Festival. Founded

in 2002, the festival spans two, consecutive

three-day weekends annually and boasts

eight stages upon which musical groups

from a variety of genres, including rock,

indie, country, folk, electronic and hiphop,

perform to around half a million

fans. In addition to the countless live

performances, the festival showcases

local foods, art, crafts and the work of

charitable organisations. This year’s line-up

is headlined by none other than legendary

American hard rock band Guns N’ Roses.

Also performing, on both weekends, will

be iconic British indie rock band The Cure,

featuring original lead singer Robert Smith.

Foodies will also be well catered for by

the ACL Eats Food Court, offering tacos,

brews, vegan options and more from Austin

and the surrounding area’s best restaurants.

4-6 + 11-13 October 2019

www.aclfestival.com


ALBUQUERQUE

INTERNATIONAL

BALLOON FIESTA

U.S.A.

Now in its 48 th year,

the Albuquerque

International Balloon

Fiesta brings together pilots, crews and

hot air and gas ballooning enthusiasts

from more than fifty countries and

draws a crowd of up to 100k. With

hundreds upon hundreds of brightly

coloured balloons taking off, the fiesta

is an impressive visual spectacle. Mass

ascensions (when hundreds of balloons

lift off together into the morning sky) are

held on all four weekend mornings plus

one day mid-week, but only after a dawn

patrol carefully examines the weather

conditions. When the dawn patrol gives

the green light, balloons from all over

the world rise together in a harmonious

lift off as dawn breaks over the Sandia

Mountains. The sight of so many colourful

balloons in the sky, is as breathtaking for

first-time visitors as it continues to be for

veteran attendees. Over the weekends,

laser light-shows and firework displays

bring the nights to a spectacular close.

5-13 October 2019

www.balloonfiesta.com

WEXFORD FESTIVAL

OPERA

IRELAND

Since the first Festival of

Music and the Arts took

place in October 1951,

Wexford Festival Opera has grown into

one of the world’s leading opera festivals.

For 68 years, the festival has breathed

new life into forgotten or neglected

operatic masterpieces, establishing a

reputation for high-quality productions

that every year bring thousands of

opera lovers flocking from all over the

world to the beautiful harbour town of

Wexford, in the southeastern corner of

the island. All operas are performed at

The National Opera House, Ireland’s

first custom-built opera house.

The gala concert on 27 th October,

featuring a collection of favourite party

pieces performed by members of the

company, will undoubtedly be a festival

highlight. The festival’s 90-minute

ShortWork daytime opera productions

have become a popular feature.

Intimately staged in a nearby hotel,

they offer audiences an opportunity to

enjoy a one-act opera performed by

cast members of the evening operas.

22 October - 3 November 2019

www.wexfordopera.com

VOODOO MUSIC +

ARTS EXPERIENCE

U.S.A.

The Voodoo Music +

Arts Experience started

out small and has, over

time, grown into a mega-event spanning

several days and drawing some massive

music industry names. Over the course

of its 18-year history, this weekend

festival (whose motto is “worship the

music”) has hosted thousands of artists

and legions of fans from all over the

world, attracting mystics, madmen,

femme fatales, gods, goddesses

and music lovers of all kinds under

one collective consciousness. Across

the festival grounds of New Orleans’

City Park, Voodoo hosts interactive and

immersive large-scale art installations;

the Brew Dat Beer Hall; a handcrafted

shopping experience at the Market Place,

and much more. This year’s festival

is headlined by a range of big names

including Brandi Carlile, Interpol and

Bassnectar. The night before the festival

starts, gourmands are invited to a oneof-a-kind

dining experience in the middle

of the festival courtesy of award-winning

American celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez.

25-27 October 2019

www.voodoofestival.com


BRISBANE GOOD

FOOD & WINE SHOW

AUSTRALIA

The capital of

Queensland is a large,

modern metropolis

brimming with entrepreneurial zeal,

cosmopolitan young people, bohemian

nightclubs and world-class restaurants,

so it’s little surprise that Brisbane hosts

one of the country’s top food and wine

shows. Celebrating regionally sourced

and locally-produced foods and vino,

and showcasing artisan and homegrown

produce from within the state

and across Australia, Brisbane’s Good

Food Show offers everything from

master classes hosted by leading chefs

to “The Smelly Cheese Project” presided

over by a cheese expert taking visitors

on a sensory cheese appreciation.

Learn how to become a wine master

at the Riedel Drinks Lab and watch the

best interstate chefs cook up a storm

at the live Princess Cruises Theatre.

For a more exclusive experience, buy

a ticket for the Cape Mentelle VIP

Lounge to sip unlimited wines from

the Margaret River region plus lunch

designed by Matt Moran and desserts

by Maggie Beer. 25-27 October 2019

www.goodfoodshow.com.au/brisbane

DIWALI

INDIA

India is a land of

festivals, which form

an integral part of

Indian culture and are at the heart of

people’s lives throughout the nation.

Held throughout the year, these

vibrant and often colourful events offer

visitors a chance to see and experience

Indian culture at its best and more

spiritual. The country’s biggest annual

celebration – commonly referred to as

The Festival of Lights – is an ancient

five-day festival celebrated on the 15 th

day of the Hindu month of Kartika. It

marks the victory of light over darkness,

hope over despair and the freedom of

Guru Hargobind Ji from imprisonment in

1619 by Mughal Emperor Jahangir who

at the same time released 52 political

prisoners from Gwalior Fort. Hence,

Diwali is the cause for much reverence

and good cheer. An important tradition

in India, participants clean their homes

before the festival and celebrate with

friends and family by sharing food and

exchanging gifts. Houses are festooned

with electric lights and at night, candles,

lamps, torches and fireworks are lit,

providing a spectacular display of light

that symbolises the awareness of inner

light and the triumph of good over evil.

27 October 2019

VILLAGE HALLOWEEN

PARADE

U.S.A.

New York City’s

46 th annual Village

Halloween Parade

is a vast and vibrant

event which sees more than 50,000

costumed party goers on a mammoth

parade, attired in ghoulish fancy dress,

led by master puppeteers Alex Kahn

and Sophia Michahelles, together

with hundreds of puppets, bands of

varying musical styles, dancers, circus

performers and floats. Founded in 1974

by mask-maker and puppeteer Ralph

Lee, this massive public participatory

gathering attracts millions of spectators

and embodies a different theme each

year, this year’s being “Wild Thing”. USD

25 buys you into the themed costume

section, including a secret entry point

for early admission, no queues, a special

DJ soundtrack for an in-parade party

and the chance to meet other crazy

costume fiends! Alternatively, if you’re

visiting New York and don’t have time

to find an outfit, pay USD 100 to join

a band, parade up 6 th Avenue with

them and you don’t need to dress-up!

31 October 2019

www.halloween-nyc.com


DÍA DE LOS MUERTOS

MEXICO

280 miles southeast

of Mexico City

and nestled in a

Y-shaped valley in the Sierra Madre

mountain range, beautiful Oaxaca

City has a rich indigenous heritage,

boasts a number of restaurants run

by some of the country’s most famous

chefs and is a UNESCO World Heritage

site. And every November, Oaxaca

City is probably the best place in

Mexico to experience 3-day 3,000-

year old Día de los Muertos, which

dates back to pre-Colombian times.

During these 72-hours, the dead are

honoured and their souls welcomed

home as a blessing, while images

abound of animated skeletons called

calaveras, which were invented by

19 th century printmaker Jose Guadalupe

Posada and popularised by artist

Diego Rivera. 31 s t October is a day of

preparation, when the women clean

the house and get food ready while

the men build clay altars. Día de los

Angelitios (Day of the Little Angels) on

1 st November is dedicated to children.

The main event on 2 nd November –

Día de los Muertos – is a more adult

affair, with bigger and more elaborate

costumes, more complex rituals,

spicier foods and plenty of tequila.

31 October - 2 November 2019

PIRATES WEEK

CAYMAN ISLANDS

A British Overseas

Territory and the

most notorious tax

haven on earth encompassing three

islands in the western Caribbean

Sea, the Caymans are renowned for

their beach resorts, varied scuba

diving, multitudinous snorkelling

sites and rich local culture. But once

a year the pirates take over! So, if you

enjoy the revelry of swashbuckling

combined with a western Caribbean

climate, Pirates Week is undoubtedly

the best time for you to visit the

Caymans! Every November, pirates

run amok throughout the islands

in this family-friendly festival of

Cayman culture and pirate folklore

that brings to life the famous Pirates

of the Caribbean, complete with

simulated pirate invasions, parades

and fireworks displays, street dances,

costume contests, parties and fancy

dressed revellers at the end of every

gangplank. Whilst festivities take place

on Cayman Brac (1-3 Nov) and Little

Cayman (15-17 Nov), the main event

happens on Grand Cayman (7-11 Nov)

where five fun-filled days will mark

Pirates Week’s 42 nd year. Immediately

following the Grand Cayman festivities,

special “District Days” on each island

celebrate the various aspects that make

these beautiful islands so unique.

1-17 November 2019

www.piratesweekfestival.com

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR

INDIA

Celebrated on the

full moon day of the

auspicious Karthika

month of the Hindu lunar calendar, the

religious festival of Kartik Purnima is

immensely important for Hindus, since

it is the only month which is dedicated

to the worship of both Lord Shiva and

Lord Vishnu. In the Ajmer region of the

northeastern Indian state of Rajasthan,

the somewhat sleepy lakeside town of

Pushkar which borders the Thar Desert,

springs to life every year for a unique

and incredibly colourful camel fair which

coincides with Kartik Purnima. Whilst

the festival sees thousands of devotees

bathe in Pushkar Lake on the pageant’s

last day, close to 50,000 camels are

trimmed, coiffured and decorated in

order to be entered into beauty contests

and raced. Adorned with silver bells

and bangles around their hoofs, and

embellished with all manner of vibrant

adornments, they are paraded past the

golden sand dunes to an excited crowd

and intense scrutinisation and judging.

Aside from the thousands of camels also

traded during the course of the fair, other

livestock are haggled over, bought and

sold, as well as local textiles, arts and

crafts, saddles, jewellery and a variety

of camel finery and embellishments.

4-12 November 2019

www.pushkar-camel-fair.com


THAT LUANG FESTIVAL

LAOS

A mountainous country

with a rich history

that stretches back

10,000 years, the Southeast Asian

country of Laos boasts literally hundreds

of Buddhist monasteries, temples

and stupas in just about every city.

Located on the north-eastern bank

of the Mekong, Vientiane’s relaxing

atmosphere is a rarity amongst the

world’s capitals. Its grand stupa, Pha

That Luang (pictured), was built over

an ancient stupa in the 16 th century by

King Setthathirath when he moved the

capital of Lane Xang Kingdom from

Luang Prabang to Vientiane. It has

since become the national symbol of

Laos and is profoundly revered by all

its countryfolk. Once a year for three

days, That Luang stupa is the focus of a

three-day religious festival celebrated at

full moon in November, beginning with

a pre-dawn gathering of thousands

of pilgrims from Laos and Thailand

who listen to prayers and sermons

chanted by hundreds of monks all

representing Lao wats. There follows a

grand procession to pay homage to Lady

Si Meuang, who was crushed to death

as the city’s foundation pillar was about

to be planted and has since become the

protector of Vientiane and its inhabitants.

The procession ends with a giant firework

display which symbolises an offering

of flowers of light to Lord Buddha.

12 November 2019 www.tourismlaos.org

FICKSBURG CHERRY

FESTIVAL

SOUTH AFRICA

In the Eastern Free

State on the edge

of the mountain

kingdom of Lesotho, in the foothills of

South Africa’s Maluti Mountains, lies

the unassuming town of Ficksburg.

Surrounded by undulating hills, set

against a spectacular mountain backdrop

and well known for its sandstone

architecture, scenic game farms and

local hiking trails, Ficksburg is a popular

stop for holidaymakers touring the

rainbow nation. Visitors hiking into

the mountains surrounding the town

can see various species of indigenous

plants and animals as well as ancient

San rock paintings and carvings in

caves and on rock shelters. But, what

makes Ficksburg stand out even more,

is that it is apparently the “Cherry

Capital of the World”. To reinforce

this title, every year the town hosts a

three-day cherry extravaganza, which

also happens to be the longest running

crop festival in South Africa, dating

back to 1968. The festival’s varied

programme usually offers something

for everyone, including sampling the

region’s famous Ionia Cherry Liqueur.

Wine and chocolate pairings are also

multitudinous during the festival, which,

as you can imagine given the country’s

superb wines, are very popular indeed.

21-23 November 2019

www.cherryfestival.co.za

HIGANTES FESTIVAL

PHILIPPINES

Not far from the

nation’s capital of

Manila is the artistic

town of Angono in Rizal, where

buildings don’t crowd the skyline, the

vegetation is greener and the streets

are a little less hostile. Arguably the

arts capital of the Philippines, as

well as being the site of the Angono

Petroglyphs (the country’s oldest

known work of art), Angono has

continuously attracted art lovers from

across the nation, not to mention

globally. Originally scheduled to

coincide with the festival of Pope

St. Clement, the town comes alive

every year during Higantes, when

towering 5 or 6-metre tall papiermâché

giants (designed to express

a person’s character or a unique

idea and painted in vibrant colours)

parade through the streets much to

the joy of vivacious crowds. According

to the locals, this practice began

when locals in Angono created a

dummy to portray a mean landlord

who was best recognized by his foul

mannerisms and imposing height. For

tourists visiting Angono, a detour to

the Blanco Family museum gives an

insight to the origins of this fascinating

festival, including a large collection of

giant higantes created by renowned

higante designer Argana Tori.

22-23 November 2019

www.philippinestravelhub.com


SALAR DE UYUNI, BOLIVIA

KACHI LODGE

Situated at the confluence of Bolivia, Chile and Argentina in the Daniel Campos Province of southwest Bolivia

and lying at a nausea-inducing altitude of 3,656 meters above sea level, Salar de Uyuni is the world’s largest

salt flat and one of the most extraordinary sights in all of South America.

Stretching for more than 12,000 square kilometres, the salar was originally part of a prehistoric salt lake,

Lago Minchín, which once covered most of southwest Bolivia. When it evaporated long ago, it left behind a few

seasonal puddles plus several salt pans, one of which is Salar de Uyuni. Here, a thick crust of salt extends to the

horizon, blanketed by quilted, polygonal salt patterns rising from the ground which make for an awe-inspiring

spectacle. The salar’s famed mirror effect occurs during the wet season, after heavy rains, between January and

March.

The first luxury lodge of its kind on the Bolivian Altiplano and unveiled just a few months ago at the foot of

Tunupa olcano, Kachi Lodge is a unique property resembling a space station, made up of six deluxe geodesic

domes designed for optimal stargazing, each with a centrally positioned bed to provide the best possible views

through transparent panels. Offering the creature comforts of a typical hotel room yet in the middle of an

otherworldly landscape, each dome contains everything a discerning traveller needs to make the most of

staying in this remarkable part of the world.

Top notch fare is provided by celebrated restaurant Gustu in La Paz helmed by Latin America’s best female

chef Kamilla Seidler (so even the most discerning of gourmands will be happy!) and Kachi Lodge’s inclusive

rates include soft drinks, wines, spirits, local airport transfers and local activities.

Feasting on delicious Bolivian food and wines, hiking to the lower lip of a volcano crater, exploring an island

covered in giant cacti, visiting archaeological sites and biking on the salt flat make staying at Kachi Lodge

an inimitable all-round experience and so much more than mere gazing at the beautiful star-studded sky.

www.kachilodge.com


Rest Your Head

SALAR DE UYUNI, PARIS, BEIJING, CHICAGO, SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, BARCELONA

COMPORTA, SHENZHEN, SAVELLETRI DI FASANO, PUNTA MAROMA, VIENNA, LONDON


PARIS, FRANCE

SINNER

One of Paris’s oldest, trendiest and most intriguing neighbourhoods and the quartier Parisians like to keep for

themselves, Le Marais oozes old world elegance and is the closest you can get to the feel of medieval Paris. By day

and night, its narrow, cobbled streets and crooked lanes are alive with bars, restaurants, fashion-forward boutiques,

trendy shops, hip designers, fashionable art galleries and great museums, all crammed into a relatively small space.

In the heart of this happening melange, new 43-room hotel Sinner recently swung open its glamorous doors,

dramatically blending 1300s religious buildings with an indulgent Parisian aesthetic.

The third Parisian addition to French hospitality group Evok Hotel’s portfolio, the former having been designed by

Jean-Louis Deniot (Nolinski Paris) and Philippe Starck (Brach Paris), Sinner’s designer Tristan Auer worked closely

on the concept with Emmanuel Sauvage, the hotel group’s co-founder, to forge a look which blends the beauty and

grandeur of religious buildings with the sensuality of religious art. This has been achieved to great effect throughout

the property by the use of vaulted ceilings, towering columns, tall stained-glass windows and antique wooden doors,

which combine to give Sinner a unique, different and cutting-edge look which also exudes quintessentially Parisian

style.

In the hotel’s ground floor restaurant, Sinner’s executive chef Adam Benthalha has fashioned a menu of ethnic and

warm cuisine that draws influences from North Africa and South America.

Upstairs, 43 airy rooms include four decadent suites, all of which were individually crafted by Auer and feature a

range of colours, patterns and statement pieces.

For those who need to recuperate after a busy day exploring the fascinating surrounding neighbourhood, the hotel

also features a decadent spa and hammam, complete with a beautiful pool inspired by Greek and Roman baths in

which to relax in supreme yet sinful fashion. www.innerparis.com


BEIJING, CHINA

THE PUXUAN HOTEL & SPA

Located on the edge of Beijing’s Forbidden City, Büro Ole Scheeren’s strikingly cool Guardian Art Center elicited

waves of appreciation when it was unveiled last year in one of the world’s most significant historical areas, where

it neighbours governmental buildings, the National Art Museum of China and Beijing’s most popular shopping belt,

Wangfujing.

Billed as the world’s first custom-built auction house, the massive structure is something of a hybrid between

museum, gallery and market, accommodating a variety of facilities ranging from art galleries and art conservation

facilities to event spaces and public transport infrastructure. A few months ago, the 92-key PuXuan hotel opened in

the upper part of the building formed of translucent glass bricks, adding a hospitality element to the center.

The fifth property from Urban Resort Concepts and conceived as a pure, modern and authentic hotel that goes

beyond conventional luxury, The PuXuan’s polished interiors were designed Shanghai-based MQ Studio which opted

for a rich colour and material palette balanced with a combination of handcrafted and artisanal furniture and antique

and contemporary art pieces. The result is a slick, calm and beautifully executed hotel that skilfully balances past and

present and acts as a bridge between patrons and the auction house should one wish to purchase an artwork while in

residence.

Lined in walls of light timber, bedrooms and suites juxtapose Beijing’s charm and heritage with a luxurious

and contemporary aesthetic. The finishes are second-to-none throughout. State-of-the-art technology prevails.

Intelligently-designed bathrooms can be seamlessly integrated into the room experience or enclosed as an

entirely private space. Every room features a full-sized walk-in wardrobe. PuXuan houseguests can check in and out

at any time of the day or night. A private TV channel is available for proxy bidding. And every guest room contains a

safe large enough to contain a couple of small artworks.

Elsewhere within The PuXuan the legacy and creativity of Chinese culture are channelled through all of the hotel’s

facilities, from the spa where ancient healing techniques are employed, to the fine cuisine served at Fu Chun Ju

restaurant which pays resolute homage to traditional Cantonese flavours, and the Tea Room which goes way beyond

the mere serving of tea to positively celebrate Asia’s rich tea history. www.thepuxuan.com


CHICAGO, U.S.A.

THE HOXTON, CHICAGO

Bounded by West Madison Street to the south, West Fulton Street to the north, Ogden Avenue to the west and the

I-90/94 expressway, the Windy City’s Fulton Market District was historically home to food packers and distributors and

was a largely industrial area dating back to the late 19 th century. But this has all changed in the past decade, fuelled by

the opening of the Morgan Street subway stop in 2012, which caused a surge in new restaurants in the district, followed

by increased interest from companies looking for non-traditional loft-style office space.

Almost gone are the warehouses and meat-packing factories that contributed to Chicago’s economic boom. Now it’s

an edgy neighbourhood brimming with funky boutiques, one-of-a-kind art galleries, trendy cafés, new office buildings

(including Google’s Chicago headquarters), desirable apartments and some of the most popular eateries in the city.

Slap bag in the middle of all this inner-city rebirth is The Hoxton, built within a gritty former meatpacking warehouse.

Right in the heart of Chicago’s cultural buzz, the hotel couldn’t be more “now” if it tried, surrounded by a hive of

round-the-clock activity and urban coolness, and is perfectly located for visits to Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate and the Art

Institute of Chicago.

182 rooms offered in three basic types from snug to roomy, are designed to echo the building’s industrial past

with panelled leather headboards and warehouse-style floor-to-ceiling windows allowing plenty of light to flood in.

Bespoke bed linen, mid-century-inspired furnishings, locally sourced art, a selection of books and a Marshall bluetooth

speaker complete the retro-urban aesthetic. Free wi-fi, free international calls “to anywhere but the moon”, free light

breakfast bags and late checkouts for just USD 10 per hour make the Chicago Hoxton’s offering super travel savvy and

tourist friendly. www.thehoxton.com


SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, MEXICO

HOTEL AMPARO

When Hotel Amparo opened at the beginning

of this year in the heart of the Spanish-colonial

cobblestoned center of San Miguel de Allende,

it set a cool new standard in a town previously

known for being somewhat stuck-in-time

when it came to places to rest one’s head.

Occupying a 300-year-old former mayoral

residence, Amparo is the brainchild of first-time

hoteliers Mariana Barran de Goodall and Taylor Goodall

who married in the town five years earlier, having

fallen in love with its vibrancy, thriving arts scene and

stunning architecture. When the characterful building

came on the market, they positively leapt at the

opportunity to give it a new lease of life by creating

a residential-style hideaway influenced by their

travels and offering amenities and experiences

hitherto unavailable in San Miguel de Allende.

Texan designer Aaron Rambo was enlisted to

help transform the historical property into a five room

boutique hotel, by refreshing original architectural

detailing and adding mid-century furnishings sourced

from countries including France, India and Denmark,

together with Aztec-inspired murals by local artist

Lucas Rise and traditional textiles by Hibiscus Linens,

Barran de Goodall’s own brand. The public spaces are

punctuated by Belgian-wood panelling and concrete

fireplaces and hung with vintage crystal chandeliers.

The individually designed guest rooms are all

different, with king beds dressed in handmade

linen, Bang & Olufsen bluetooth speakers, cool

bathrooms and Le Labo toiletries. All have working

fireplaces and double doors opening on to patios.

The biggest room boasts a separate sitting area

and an over-sized bathroom complete with double

sinks and a deep soaking tub. The nightly rate

includes homemade breakfast, happy hour on the

terrace and a cutesy dessert hour in the evening.

Also onsite are a state-of-the-art chef’s

teaching kitchen and an upscale full-service

coffee shop, boasting the town’s first (and only)

La Marzocco espresso machine. Meanwhile on the

roof of the hotel at Bar Margaret, Latino-Caribbean

small plates and an à la carte menu, served for

lunch and dinner, fuse local ingredients, dishes and

cooking styles from the southeastern United States,

Mexican gulf coast and the chef’s Peruvian heritage.

A wine list with a heavy emphasis on European

small producers of low intervention wine, and a

cocktail menu that reflects mixologist Gabriel Avila’s

passion for herb infused mezcal and tequila cocktails

complete Hotel Amparo’s bijou but perfectly formed

food and beverage offerings, undoubtedly making

it the coolest place to unpack your suitcases to

explore everything that colourful San Miguel de

Allende has to offer. www.hotelamparo.com


BARCELONA, SPAIN

SIR VICTOR

Rapidly capturing the hearts of discerning travellers with its thoughtfully curated one-of-a-kind hospitality

experiences, positioned in prime European city locations, Sir Hotels group is slowly but steadily expanding its

portfolio. Its latest offering, Sir Victor, was formerly Hotel Omm and is set just off of Passeig de Gràcia (Barcelona’s

grand, humming shopping boulevard) a stone’s throw from Gaudí’s Casa Milà and close to the Avinguda Diagonal,

home to many of Barcelona’s designer boutiques.

Famous for its unique limestone façade designed by Catalan architect Juli Capella, which orientates the windows

in such a way as to allow maximum sunlight in yet maintain the privacy of hotel guests, the Omm was innovative

in Barcelona when it first opened in 2004 and Sir Victor has gone some way to maintaining this uniqueness.

Tel Aviv-based designers Baranowitz + Kronenburg, renowned for their clever design of W Amsterdam hotel across

two historic buildings, were engaged by Sir Hotels to work their architectural magic on the property’s multifaceted

ground floor space. The result is a journey through contrasting landscapes, inspired by the seaside and the mountains,

that engages when you first enter the building’s bright and playful lobby, and changes as you delve deeper into the

hotel, where earthier tones create a more intimate and intriguing ambiance.

Upstairs, 91 rooms and suites ooze understated grooviness and are laden with the kind of uber-cool mid-century

modern designer trappings that one expects of a hotel with such style-led credentials, including a drinks trolley for

whipping-up a cheeky pre-dinner cocktail and a selection of booked inspired by Catalan author Victor Català, after

which the hotel is named.

Crowning Sir Victor is a secluded rooftop bar, restaurant and pool where guests can swim, eat and sip whilst

drinking in captivating views of Gaudí’s Casa Milà and La Sagrada Familia to a backdrop of funky sounds provided

by some of the city’s hippest DJs. www.sirhotels.com



SHENZHEN, CHINA

RAFFLES SHENZEN

Just 30 years ago Shenzhen was a small seaside town. Today it is an economic powerhouse, one of China’s largest

and most important cities and the mainland’s coolest metropolis. Upon closer inspection it’s not hard to see why.

The city’s urban sprawl and cloud-piercing towers make for an imposing metropolitan silhouette. Connected to Hong

Kong via bullet train means that tourists can reach Shenzhen from downtown Kowloon in around 20 minutes. And

what Shenzhen lacks in ancient temples and historic monuments to typically lure cultured travellers, it more than

makes for with strikingly modern architecture, artsy pedestrian districts, excellent cocktail bars and exceptional

Cantonese cuisine.

Shenzen also boasts an array of luxury hotels, the newest of which, Raffles, opened just a few months ago

in prestigious One Shenzhen Bay tower in Nanshan District, topped with a helipad for VIP access and helicopter

sightseeing tours of Shenzhen Bay.

Occupying floors 33-45 as well as 70-71 of the 72-storey tower (which also contains Raffles residences), arriving

guests check-in on the 34 th floor which serves as a veritable lobby in the sky. As with every Raffles property, the

service is attentive and discreet.

Occupying floors 35 through 45, the hotel’s 168 sumptuous and overly spacious rooms and suites offer

breathtaking views across the sea and cityscape. At 60 sqm, entry level rooms are larger and more decadent than

many European hotel suites. Meanwhile, spanning a whopping 434 sqm, the immense lounge area of the sprawling

2-bedroom Presidential Suite connects to a private dining room, full kitchen, steam room and fitness area. Every

guest room in the hotel is served by Raffles’ inimitable 24-hour butler service, providing everything from morning

newspapers to freshly brewed coffee at the touch of a button.

The onsite Raffles Spa is a welcoming haven of relaxation after a busy day on Shenzhen’s bustling streets and

offers a range of rejuvenating treatments to restore mind, body and soul.

Atop the hotel, Raffles’ six sky-high food and beverage venues include top notch Yun Jing restaurant which

showcases Cantonese fare and boasts 10 private dining rooms, and Kokoni which offers a Japanese culinary adventure

spanning everything from kaiseki and premium steaks to sushi and sashimi.

Also at the top of the hotel is a Raffles signature Long Bar (pictured). Because some things never go out of fashion,

here one can sip an iconic Singapore Sling, created in 1915 at Raffles Singapore by Chinese bartender Ngiam Tong

Boon. www.raffles.com


SAVELLETRI DI FASANO, ITALY

MASSERIA TORRE MAIZZA

Facing the Mediterranean from the centre of an extensive estate, Masseria Torre Maizza is just a few kilometres

away from the charming seaside fishing village of Savelletri di Fasano in north-eastern Puglia on the Adriatic

coast, just 45 kilometres from Brindisi. A small fishing port, sandy beaches, small rocky reefs and a variety

of excellent restaurants make that this corner of Puglia perfect for a relaxed vacation away from crowds of

holidaymakers.

Surrounded by ancient olive groves and skilfully blending local heritage with contemporary luxury, recently

rebranded as a Rocco Forte property and having just undergone a major refurbishment at the hands of talented

designer Olga Polizzi, Masseria Torre Maizza is brimming with thoughtful design accents and beautiful detailing

which come together to provide a special hospitality experience in a unique place.

The original 16 th century masseria (fortified farmhouse) buildings at the centre of the sprawling property

house the reception, a Rocco Forte Spa, Bougainville bar and a new Torre Suite in the original tower, offering

sensational views over a sweeping expanse of Puglian countryside, out towards the Adriatic beyond.

The rest of the hotel’s 40 rooms and suites typify elegant Italian living, exquisitely marrying contemporary

style with a carefully curated collection of local art and objets d’art. Polizzi excels at soft furnishings, accessorising

and ensuring that Rocco Forte properties feel warm and welcoming while also smart and sophisticated. While

sumptuous king-sized beds, stone bathrooms and state-of-the-art amenities are de rigueur throughout Masseria

Torre Maizza, the hotel’s pièce de résistance is its stylish private beach club on the shores of the Adriatic where

guests can lounge, sunbathe, eat, drink and enjoy aperitivo hour from the comfort of their luxe sunbeds while

being waited on hand and foot. www.roccofortehotels.com


PUNTA MAROMA, MEXICO

CHABLÉ MAROMA

Sharing much of its history with the neighbouring states

of Yucatán and Campeche, the “Free and Sovereign State

of Quintana Roo” (as it’s officially known) was made for

vacationing and in the past few decades its Caribbean shoreline

has grown into a major tourism destination. Not only does this

divine little corner of Mexico lay claim to hundreds of kilometres

of white sugar-sand beaches, but it is also home to wildlife-rich

jungles, coral reefs and mysterious underwater cave systems,

small communities oozing local Mayan-Mexicano character

and fascinating ancient ruins and archaeological sites.

Due its proximity to the world’s second largest reef, Quintana

Roo also boasts some of the world’s best snorkelling and

diving. A magnificent assemblage of coral reefs, mangroves,

seagrasses and coastal lagoons, the Mesoamerican Reef

extends for several hundred kilometres from the northeastern

tip of the Yucatán Peninsula to Belize, the eastern coast

of Guatemala and the northern coast of Honduras.

Name-checked by The Travel Channel as one of the most

beautiful beaches in the world, no doubt due to its vast strip of

white sand fringed by the stunningly turquoise Caribbean, Punta

Maroma is located 30 kilometres south of Cancun International

Airport and 10 kilometres north of bustling Playa del Carmen.

Quiet and chilled with minimal waves make Punta Maroma

ideal for a relaxing holiday of sunbathing and reading.

Designed for guests to reconnect with the beauty of Mexico,

surrounded by tropical jungle and set on an exclusive 200-metre

stretch of beach, sublime all-suite resort Chablé Maroma is a

secluded hospitality gem that honours its beautiful location with

its back-to-nature approach to healing and wellness focus.

Served by three members of staff per room, every thatched

villa at Chablé comes with its own private pool, outdoor living

area and sun deck. Bedrooms are contemporary, calm and

pampering with huge beds bedecked in sumptuous linens

by Paulina Moran and headboards hand-woven from palm

leaves. Vast, super-luxe bathrooms stand-out for their indooroutdoor

showers, towelling-covered daybeds, walk-in wardrobes

and all-natural amenities custom-made for Chablé.

Two onsite dining options offer delectable Mexi-

Cali fare there’s a rooftop bar perfect for mescal

sundowners to a backdrop of incredible views.

Completing Chablé’s leisure facilities are a bijou glass-walled

gym, a schedule of fitness classes and a blissful spa with seven

thatched treatment rooms and a trio of hydrotherapy pools.

Healing treatments are based on ancient Mayan therapies.

A typical day at Chablé begins with a hamper of freshly baked

pastries, strong coffee from Chiapas and mountain spring water

delivered to your door, followed by an à la carte breakfast. After

sunbathing, swimming in the crystal-clear waters and flicking

through a novel, indulge in a herbal massage before sipping

handcrafted sundowners on the terrace at Raw Bar by Bu’ul. Post a

dinner of sopa de lima, octopus ceviche and the freshest local catch

of the day, retire to your private, candlelit villa in the jungle to sleep

like a baby. Getting into the swing of things at Chablé is the easy

part. It’s the leaving which is tough. www.chablemaroma.com


VIENNA, AUSTRIA

ANDAZ VIENNA AM BELVEDERE

Hyatt’s lifestyle brand celebrates the individuality of every guest, and each Andaz hotel reflects the destination’s

culture in the uniqueness of the property.

Located in close proximity to Vienna’s main train station, within the city’s rapidly emerging new Quartier Belvedere,

Andaz’s fourth property in Europe opened in April 2019 offering more than 300 rooms and suites inspired by the man

behind the iconic Belvedere Palace, Prince Eugene of Savoy.

A collaboration between celebrated architect Renzo Piano and renowned interior designers Claudio Carbone and

Gabriel Kacerovsky, the pet friendly hotel comprises two separate buildings connected by interwoven bridges, sharing

a voluminous lobby lounge on the ground floor. The cool cat interior design aesthetic smoothly blends the classic and

the contemporary, resulting in a warm and inviting yet fun and energetic hospitality experience from the get-go.

Lit by floor-to-ceiling windows and infused with a variety of local touches and artistic detailing, guest rooms are

crisp, modern and function efficiently, are well laid out and straightforward to use, and are amply equipped to suit

both leisure and business travellers.

A huge state-of-the-art 24-hour fitness center, looking out towards the green space fronting the hotel, boasts

every conceivable piece of gym equipment needed to stay fit whilst on-the-go. And a small onsite spa offers a limited

range of treatments. But where the hotel really excels is in its food and beverage venues.

Inspired by the Northern Lights, the hotel’s popular rooftop bar on the 16 th floor, Aurora (pictured), offers sweeping

panoramic views of Vienna together with a reasonably priced Scandinavian-inspired cocktail menu and a good range

of bar snacks.

On street level, contemporary Austrian tavern Eugen21 skilfully combines classic and modern cuisines in a

comprehensive menu inspired by what Prince Eugene would have dined on, with added modern twists. Offering

something for everyone in a spacious and comfortable dining room, delicious, hearty fare and good portions are

matched by excellent service in Eugen21 undoubtedly making it a destination restaurant for the Viennese and visitors

alike.

Also on the ground floor but offering healthy food to take-away, Cyclist has already become an urban meeting

spot for visitors, athletes and anyone health-conscious. Offering flexitarian food, sandwiches, salads and grilled

dishes alongside daily specials served by friendly staff, Cyclist’s food is scrummy and filling and its fresh homemade

smoothies and coffee specialties are worth cycling across town for. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.andaz.com

©ANDAZ VIENNA AM BELVEDERE


COMPORTA, PORTUGAL

SUBLIME COMPORTA

For decades, the 60 kilometres of uninterrupted Atlantic Ocean beach, verdant rice fields and estuary-fronted nature

reserves known collectively as Comporta were a closely guarded secret among the wealthy, who made the area

their off-the-grid summer place to escape to. But such jaw-dropping natural beauty could only be kept a secret for

so long.

Comporta now regularly features on lists of the planet’s most coveted travel hot spots, with the 2016 opening of the

drop-dead-gorgeous Sublime Comporta country retreat playing an instrumental part in the area’s increased visibility,

not to mention finally providing an accommodation option worthy of Comporta’s breathtaking charms.

Pine, olive and cork trees along with herb and flower beds combine to create a veritable Portuguese Garden of Eden

throughout Sublime’s grounds of 17 hectares. Meanwhile, the extensive and clever use of natural materials to create

modern structures are in total harmony with the resort’s setting. And the liberal use of glass walling in the public spaces

ensures plentiful views of the mesmerising landscape.

While the design alone justifies visiting Sublime, it is the excellent service, warm hospitality and luxe amenities that

persuade one to stay. The property has two swimming pools, tennis courts and a stand-alone spa housed in the owner’s

original ranch-style home. A state-of-the-art fitness centre will open soon.

Foodies will love Sem Porta, the property’s main dining venue, which, under the stewardship of chef Tiago

Santos, has become a destination restaurant, serving contemporary Portuguese cuisine with a focus on the local Alentejo

region.

All of the room categories at Sublime - from Friends Rooms located in the main house to the recently inaugurated

lakefront Bio-Pool Suites - combine a chic, pared-back aesthetic with nods to local culture. A signature of the Sublime

experience, all rooms have private outdoor spaces ensuring that guests are connected with nature. ALEX BENASULI

www.sublimecomporta.pt


LONDON, U.K.

SOFITEL LONDON ST JAMES

Sofitel’s flagship London property is in the throes of a

sweeping GBP 16.5 million transformation, including

an update to all 183 guest rooms by Parisian designer

Pierre-Yves Rochon which is introducing a contemporary

British flavour to the French art of living.

Upon entering the hotel’s grand lobby, the immediate and

most exciting change is directly to your right. In early June, one

of London’s most respected chefs, Anthony Demetre, launched

Wild Honey St James (in the space previously occupied by The

Balcon), with a focus on English-influenced contemporary

French cooking fashioned from the best quality in-season

produce and a commitment to nose-to-tail sustainability.

Underlying the serious business of gastronomy and

the overarching emphasis on allowing fresh flavours to

shine, there is a playfulness in the culinary mix of French

and Anglo influences, and Wild Honey’s spacious new

110-seat dining room is a statement in old-fashioned

grandeur blended with modern design. Boasting doubleheight

ceilings and huge arched windows looking out to

the majestic architecture of St James’s, the grand room is

set over two levels punctuated by long velvet banquettes,

striking lighting and a smattering of contemporary art,

including two huge portraits by Scottish artist Elliot Killick.

Next door, the refurbishment is also complete of St James

Bar, where a marble bar top, deep blue velvet banquettes

and new lighting have updated the ambience of the classic

space inspired by Coco Chanel’s 1920s apartment.

The hotel’s ladylike Rose Lounge, decorated as the

name suggests in a romantic mix of blush pink and

florals and the venue for indulgent afternoon teas,

will undergo a makeover by the end of the year.

Meanwhile, the guestrooms are being infused with a

sense of swinging London amid specially commissioned

pop art works and abstracts: think Andy Warhol prints

of Debbie Harry and Twiggy, along with objets d’art

carefully selected to enhance the colour scheme of each

room and coffee table books to lend a cultured homeaway-from-home

feel. Original oversized headboards,

classic black and white bathrooms with art deco mirrors

and marble-topped vanities have not been touched.

Opulent SoSPA, which has won a string of awards, is

genuinely in no need of improvement. Opened in 2009 in a

neighbouring building, it features treatment rooms across

three levels, a private hammam, state-of-the-art spa bath

and a dark oak pavilion space used for private functions.

By retaining the best of the old and introducing some

welcome new touches which add to its overall offering,

Sofitel London St James is masterfully reinventing itself in

the best possible way. And the addition of Wild Honey St

James is particularly exciting in this match between French

savoir faire and English class. Long may this international

hospitality liaison continue in the heart of London’s West

End! DAWN GIBSON www.sofitelstjames.com


BRAEMAR GATHERING

Competitors performing in a dance contest at the annual Braemar Gathering

highland games, which have been taking place in Scotland for hundreds of years

7 September 2019

WIN A FOUR-NIGHT HALF BOARD

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Surrounded by crystalline Indian Ocean waters and unspoiled reefs, the resort is a veritable beach

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The draw will take place after 30 th November 2019 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be

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WARSAW

RISES AGAIN

Museums, galleries and restaurants are

breathing new life into the most unlikely corners

of the Polish capital, where Joe Mortimer finds

a city bursting with a newfound lust for life

IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / ITSMEJUST

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE

PRAGA DISTRICT

T

ake a walk along the left bank of

Warsaw’s Vistula River on a sunny

afternoon and it’s hard to imagine

that just 75 years ago, the city lay in

ruins. Couples whizz past on bicycles

and electric scooters as families stroll along the

promenade, and groups of youngsters pose for

selfies in front of the floating bars that line the

riverbank. The Copernicus Science Centre cuts a

modern silhouette against the bright blue sky and

the inviting murals of the Museum on the Vistula,

Warsaw’s newest contemporary art space, reveal

a playful and whimsical side to the city that was

long smothered by Soviet rule.

It’s a peaceful and vibrant scene, one increasingly

common in Warsaw, where a new generation are

transforming the city into a hotbed of creativity. Here

in the Powiśle neighbourhood, where new apartment

blocks are rising up along the river front, the streets

are lined with coffee shops, wine bars, design stores

and vegan restaurants, and symbolic street art roars

from the sides of buildings.

Looking out towards the far side of the Vistula from the

garden-covered rooftop of the University of Warsaw

Library, a sea of greenery separates the right bank

from the Praga district, where pockets of prosperity

are raising the profile of the long-neglected


IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / STEPNIAK

Though the

scars of recent

history remain

fresh, young

Varsovians are

turning their

attention to

the future and

reinventing

the city’s

cultural and

social scenes

neighbourhood. Here, urban renewal projects are

breathing new life into crumbling buildings that

are now home to arts and cultural spaces, awardwinning

restaurants and world-class museums.

The same story is unfolding all over town. A cloud

of cranes hovers on the skyline in the Wola district

and new downtown hotels like the storied Raffles

Europejski Warsaw and the recently opened Hotel

Warszawa are paving the way for a wave of affluent

international visitors. Though tourism is still nascent

in this restive city of 1.77 million souls, visitor arrivals

are on the rise, and it’s only a matter of time before

that trickle becomes a deluge.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF OPPRESSION

Warsaw’s urban renewal is not simply a story

of repurposing old buildings, but a continuation

of the shift in values that began when the country

became a democratic republic in 1989. Quietly

and confidently, Warsaw has been adapting

to independence for the past 30 years and, in

doing so, coming to terms with its own identity.

To understand modern Warsaw, it helps to know

a little about its past. Stanisław II Augustus was

the last monarch to rule over the Polish-Lithuanian

Commonwealth, which covered a sizeable part of ►


central Europe from the 1300s until its dissolution in

the late 18 th century, when the territory was carved

up between the Russian, Prussian and Austrian

empires. Effectively, Poland ceased to exist from

1795 until the end of World War I, when the Second

Polish Republic was formed and the country entered

a period of rapid cultural and economic evolution:

a golden era when businesses thrived and dancehalls

thrummed.

Independence was obliterated again at the outset

of World War II, when Germany and Soviet forces

invaded and occupied the country. Following the

unsuccessful Warsaw Uprising of August 1944, in

which the Polish resistance attempted to seize control

from Nazi overlords, the Germans drove the remaining

citizens out of the city and began the systematic

destruction of Warsaw’s buildings, which would lead

to the obliteration of 85 per cent of the city.

Life didn’t get much better for the Polish people when

the war ended. Though the government-in-exile

attempted to maintain continuity of rule from London,

the reality was that post-war Poland was very much

under the thumb of the Soviet Union, which kept the

country firmly behind the Iron Curtain until Poland

achieved independence once again in 1989.

When the country joined the European Union in 2004,

it kick-started Warsaw’s rejuvenation, and in the 15

years since, a new generation has begun to make its

own mark on their capital. Though the scars of recent

history remain fresh, young Varsovians are turning

their attention to the future and reinventing the city’s

cultural and social scenes.

FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD

Unlike other European capitals, you don’t have

to battle with crowds of tourists in Warsaw. Major

performances at the Grand Theatre and National

Opera tend to sell out weeks in advance and the city’s

top restaurants are often fully booked, but one can

walk through the cobbled streets of the Old Town

at any time of day and not feel overwhelmed by the

volume of human traffic.

The Old Town is Warsaw at its fairy-tale best, a warren

of narrow streets surrounding the charming Market

Square, which was once the medieval heart of

Warsaw. The 15 th century buildings were rebuilt from

scratch in the years following the war, using original ►


ALL IMAGES © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / CHRISPICTURES, GRAND WARSZAWSKI, KAREN PERHUS, S-F

OLD MARKET SQUARE

When the country

joined the EU in 2004,

it kick-started Warsaw’s

rejuvenation, and in the

15 years since, a new

generation has begun

to make its own mark

on the capital

materials salvaged from the rubble. Today, the rows

of colourful townhouses surround the cobbled square,

filled with ice cream parlours, souvenir shops and

restaurants selling traditional Polish fare.

It’s hard to resist the rustic charms of local dining.

Most of the restaurants in the Old Town tout their

homemade pierogi – the ubiquitous fried or steamed

dumplings packed with sweet or savoury fillings – or

bigos, a rich and hearty game stew, usually served in a

hollowed-out loaf of rye bread. These traditional dishes

are best washed down with a flagon of wheaty Polish

beer or a glass or two of Polish vodka, served ideally

at six to eight degrees centigrade, as per the collected

wisdom of six centuries of vodka production.

Warsaw bartenders will proudly explain that vodka

was first invented in Poland (a fact hotly contested by

Russia) and that Poland is the world’s fourth largest

vodka producer.

THE ROYAL ROUTE

For a truly unique experience, connoisseurs should

treat themselves to a glass of two of aged potato

vodka or a good quality rye.

UNIVERSITY OF WARSAW

ALL IMAGES © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / MG AFRICA, PIOTRBB, CHRISPICTURES

The Old Town’s streets are home to a trio of churches:

the unusual façade of St. John’s Archcathedral stands

next to the strawberry and cream-coloured Shrine of

Our Lady Grace Jesuit Church. And a block away, the

baroque façade of St. Martin’s Church overlooks the

fortified wall that encircles this ancient enclave.

Walk towards the southern end of Old Town and you’ll

come to the salmon pink Royal Castle, which serves as

a reminder of the halcyon days of the Polish Lithuanian

Commonwealth, when the kings and queens of Poland

ruled over a vast territory from this Warsaw residence.

Painstakingly rebuilt between 1971 and 1984, the castle

interiors contain royal chambers, elegant staterooms

and reception halls, and a collection of art that includes

pieces by Rembrandt and a 1685 Stradivarius violin

(www.zamek-krolewski.pl).

From Castle Square, the so-called Royal Route extends

for 11 kilometres through the city, past the glorious

gardens of Łazienki Park and all the way down to

Wilanów Palace and Park, the royals’ summer retreat

and one of the most impressive buildings in Warsaw.

Inside, visitors can explore the royal apartments,

adorned with magnificent baroque art, elaborate wall

tapestries and beautiful moulded ceilings, and view ►

OLD MARKET SQUARE


WILANÓW PALACE

IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / MARCIN KRZYZAK

the superb art collection of Stanisław Kostka Potock,

which became Warsaw’s first art museum in 1805.

Antique treasures from Egypt, European ceramics and

hand-made furniture from the Orient fill the salons,

and works of art from across Europe continue to

dazzle visitors now as they would have in the early

19 th century (www.wilanow-palac.pl).

Some of the city’s grandest buildings line the upper end

of the Royal Route. Take the time to wander past the

Presidential Palace and the Holy Cross Church, where

the heart of Fryderyk Chopin was laid to rest (his body

is buried in Paris). Then admire the grandeur of Staszic

Palace, outside which stands a monument to another

of Warsaw’s favourite sons, Nicolaus Copernicus, whose

16 th century research revolutionised our understanding

of the universe.

A few blocks from here stands the Palace of Culture

and Science, the divisive icon and lasting legacy of the

communist regime that looms over the city. Today the

hulking tower is surrounded by a collection of gleaming

new offices and apartment buildings: some of the

most expensive real estate in the city. The irony that

this communist symbol, a gift from Stalin in 1955, is

now surrounded by new towers born from free market

capitalism is not lost on the population, many of whom

think the palace should be torn down (www.pkin.pl). ►


Like it or not, the Palace of Culture and Science has

become a symbol of the city. Locals jest that its 30 th

floor observation deck is the nicest spot in town,

because it’s the only viewpoint from which you can’t

see the building. But for visitors and locals alike, the

colossal palace provides context for modern day

Warsaw.

ART & IDENTITY

Relics of the Soviet era are met with mixed views in

the city; some see them as a painful reminder of a

dark past, while others accept their value as part of

the Polish identity, for better or worse. For those in

the latter camp, beauty can be found in the methods

by which Warsaw creatives – artists, filmmakers and

other artisans - found a means of expression in an era

where individuality was quashed.

Polish poster art was born at the end of the 19 th

century but came into its own as a recognised art

form in the interwar years from 1918 until 1939.

Graphic artists and typographers embraced the

medium, which was used to promote everything from

agricultural products and dance halls to important

meetings and tourism. Under communism, poster

art was institutionalised and became an important

propaganda tool, used to promote socialist ideals and

political goals.

But it was in the mid 50s that the genre flourished,

thanks in part to the film industry. Artists were given

free reign to recreate posters for the state-owned film

distribution business, using their own artistic license

rather than images of actors provided by studios.

Since posters were the only artistic medium permitted

under the regime, their creativity manifested itself in

magnificent works of art, many of which have found

their way into museums and private collections.

The Polish Poster Museum at Wilanów, established

in 1968 to preserve and display these unique works,

contains a trove of 36,000 Polish posters and 25,000

foreign pieces, making it one of the largest collections

in the world. Works by early masters of the genre,

like Wojciech Zamecznik, are on display alongside

other champions of what became known as the

Polish School of Posters, and regular exhibitions are

dedicated to individual artists or specific subject

matter (www.postermuseum.pl).


20 th century Polish poster art from various well-known movies

Since freedom of expression and individuality were

throttled in the soviet era, Polish poster art is one

of the few genres to have existed in the 20 th century

and its value as such is priceless, regardless of its

connotations. The same is true of neon lighting, an

American advertising model adopted by the Polish

People’s Party and used for propaganda purposes to

promote state-owned enterprises and party-friendly

institutions. Though its purpose was utilitarian, its

execution was taken seriously, with some of the best

artists in the land commissioned to create detailed

neon signs for car factories, cinemas and libraries

amongst other things. Though many of Warsaw’s

most iconic neon signs were scrapped after the fall of

communism, many have been salvaged and restored,

and are today on display at the Neon Muzeum at

Soho Factory (www.neonmuzeum.org).

Over the years, Poland’s borders have been redrawn

numerous times by encroaching conquerors, a fact

manifested in a thought-provoking piece of artwork

in the lobby of Raffles Europejski Warsaw. One

of more than 500 pieces in the hotel’s collection,

Borders, by Polish artist Włodzimierz Jan Zakrzewski

shows how the Polish territory has transformed over

time via series of jagged neon lights representing the

outline of these endlessly shifting borders. Art has

been an important part of the guest experience

at Hotel Europejski since it first opened in 1857;

a tradition continued when the hotel reopened

to much fanfare in 2018. Today, its magnificent

collection, some on loan from billionaire co-owner

Vera Michalski-Hoffman, is perhaps the best

showcase of modern art in Poland.

Throughout the Cold War era, artists found ways

of expressing themselves despite the oppression.

Filmographer Kazimierz Urbański, founder of the

Film Drawing Studio at the Academy of Fine Arts

in Kraków, won acclaim for his documentary and

educational films, commissioned by the Polish

People’s Republic. But in his spare time, Urbański

used footage and cuttings to create his own abstract

works, which blurred the boundaries between film

and art: borders categorically imposed by the state.

Urbański is one of many Polish artists celebrated at

the Zachęta National Gallery of Art, which celebrates

contemporary art from the 20 th century up until the

modern day with a calendar of rotating exhibitions

set in a spectacular 1900 neo-Renaissance style

building. Situated on the southern side of the vast ►


IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / FLAREZT

ZACHĘTA - NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART

Piłsudski Square (home to the Tomb of the Unknown

Soldier) and the beautiful Saxon Garden, Zachęta was

one of the few buildings that survived the war, thanks

in part to the fact that it was appropriated by the

Nazis and converted into the House of German Culture

for the duration of the occupation (www.zacheta.art.pl).

Along with the Museum on the Vistula and the

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art,

Zacheta is one of the most important institutions

in Warsaw for contemporary art. It is through art

that many young Varsovians are able to express

their feelings about identity and history, creating

an important body of contemporary work that will

come to characterise the first three decades of

independent Poland.

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

If the reconstructed left-bank of the Vistula is a

celebration of the glory days of pre-Partition Poland,

then the right bank is the stage on which the future

of this city is being choreographed. Towards the end

of the war, the working class Praga neighbourhood

was occupied by the Soviet army, so it was spared the

wanton destruction rendered by the Nazis on the left

bank of the river. Though the infrastructure remained

largely intact, post-war investment focused mostly

on rebuilding central Warsaw and Praga was largely ►


Though tourism is still

nascent in this restive

city of 1.77 million

souls, visitor arrivals

are on the rise, and

it’s only a matter of

time before that trickle

becomes a deluge

forgotten. When director Roman Polanski sought

a filming location to stand in for the Warsaw Ghetto

for his film ‘The Pianist’, he found the depressing streets

and crumbling tenement buildings of Praga to be the

perfect setting.

But as the cost of living crept up in the centre over the

past 15 years, artists and creatives made the move across

the river to take advantage of cheaper rent and studio

space. Today, Warsaw’s upwardly mobile are also drifting

across and snapping up flashy new apartments and office

space, in a rapid gentrification process reminiscent of

Brooklyn in New York City or London’s Shoreditch in the

late 1990s and early 2000s.

The whole length of Praga’s Ząbkowska Street is

now lined with restaurants and bars and the new Praga

Museum of Warsaw is dedicated to the history of the

area (www.muzeumpragi.pl). Further along Ząbkowska

is Koneser (‘Connoisseur’), a major regeneration project

that has turned a collection of former distilleries into one

of Warsaw’s hottest urban lifestyle enclaves that’s home

to the Polish Vodka Museum and a handful of upscale

bars and restaurants.

Across the railway tracks, investment has also breathed

new life into Soho Factory, a collection of warehouses

that are now home to fine dining restaurants, galleries

and creative event spaces, as well as the excellent


Neon Muzeum. New luxury real estate springing

up in the area looks set to cement this as one of

Warsaw’s hottest new addresses.

Whichever side of the river you look, the welfare

of Warsaw’s population is front and centre of new

development plans. Parks and green spaces cover

a fifth of the city, which is criss-crossed with cycle

lanes and a gleaming new Metro network. Black

marble benches dotted around the city play Chopin

concertos at the touch of a button and information

boards in Polish and English tell locals and visitors

what kind of flora and fauna to look out for in spaces

like the riverside Discovery Park and other public areas.

Locals are serenaded by free Chopin concerts in Łazienki

Park every weekend during the summer, while the rightbank

beaches are filled with healthy young Varsovians

having picnics or practicing yoga.

Meanwhile, here on the left bank promenade,

the waters of the Vistula continue to glide by,

just as they have since time immemorial. The

sun shines over the Polish capital and the people

enjoy the simple things in life, like friendship,

freedom and forgiveness. One thing is clear: after

the long dark years of the 20 th century, the spring

has finally arrived – and Warsaw is rising again.

(www.warsawtour.pl/en)

RAFFLES EUROPEJSKI WARSAW

STAY


HOTEL WARSZAWA

MAMAISON HOTEL LE REGINA



Most globetrotters know Raffles’ story, or have visited Singapore’s legendary Long Bar to sip a Sling, crunch monkey nuts and toss the shells

on the floor. The famous cocktail was developed at Raffles Singapore in 1915 by bartender Ngiam Tong Boon, has since become an inherent

part of the hotel’s rich heritage and crowns the food and beverage offerings at Raffles properties worldwide. But uniquely for a Raffles, it is

a huge collection of Polish modern art which takes centre stage at this 160-year-old city landmark, culturally embedding Raffles Europejski

Warsaw in its historic location.

First opened in 1857 as Hotel Europejski and occupying a beautiful Enrico Marconi-designed neo-Renaissance palace, back in the day this

grand edifice on Warsaw’s Royal Route was the favoured hangout of the city’s elite.

Rarely does a full-scale hotel renovation return a once gleaming hospitality grand dame to its former glory without sacrificing something.

But when careful attention to detail has been paid and a renovation is a resounding success, hospitality classics are reborn for generations

to come and true hotel greatness is achieved. This is the case with Raffles Europejski Warsaw, which, when unveiled last summer after a

painstaking four-year refurb, instantly became the finest hotel in Poland, if not all of Eastern Europe. And some 160 years after it first opened,

Europejski’s new-found grace, poise and tranquillity have seemingly captivated today’s Varsovian movers and shakers.

The massive building's classic exterior façades, complete with typically Polish rounded corners, modest columned portico and relatively

unpretentious entrance, give little clue as to the hotel’s glamorous interior. But once inside it is immediately obvious that Raffles Europejski

Warsaw is a rather special property.

An elegant street-level foyer, peppered with custom-designed furnishings, is where guests first encounter the hotel’s art collection. A few


steps up, and guests find themselves on a long Leon Tarasewicz striped carpet and beneath an undulating series of 160 large hand-blown

glass pebbles by Filip Houdek, each of which signifies a year of the building’s life. It is these statement pieces which set the contemporary

artistic tone that permeates the entire building and make an emphatic design declaration that is utterly unique in Poland.

Art also features heavily in the hotel’s food and beverage venues, which skilfully revive and marry old gastronomic traditions with new culinary

trends. In Europejski Grill, warm interiors fashioned by Spanish designer Lázaro Rosa-Violán are skilfully juxtaposed with cuisine that is both

loyal to Poland’s culinary heritage and re-imagined with a modern twist. Warsaw’s Long Bar is a swanky incarnation of the world-famous

original Singaporean venue and has become a go-to destination for the city’s hip and upwardly mobile. Leather club chairs, movie posters

and moody lighting create a warm, members’ club-like space in Humidor, for guests to hideaway and relax with a cigar and sip quality spirits

in louche luxury. And for those with a sweet tooth, Lourse Warszawa Patisserie pays homage to the illustrious history of the Europejski, when

a café of the same name was a well-known haunt of artists, writers and poets of the day.

Upstairs, Raffles’ famous butlers preside over 106 exquisitely appointed rooms including 40 super-luxe suites. Some are accented in turquoise

and cream. In others, rich reds, muted golds and bronze prevail. Even entry-level rooms are very generous. Bathrooms are elegantly appointed

and beautifully detailed and every room is hung with original Polish art. Europejski’s bedrooms and suites are arguably the best in the city.

Rarely does staying at a landmark grand dame not only satisfy all the usual requirements of a five-star hotel but also feed the senses, please

the eye and provoke the mind. Yet Raffles Europejski Warsaw achieves all of this and more, and with an incredible amount of style and

panache. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.raffles.com/warsaw


HOTEL WARSZAWA

Standing tall on Świętokrzyska Street, Hotel Warszawa is one of the most storied buildings in the Polish capital; a proud Art Deco

monument that embodies the tale of renewal and rejuvenation unfolding all across the city. Inside, 142 rooms and suites and a collection

of eminently Instagrammable restaurants boast a modern, industrial design that fuses past and present, setting the scene for a new wave

of affluent travellers looking to explore modern Warsaw.

Designed by architect Marcin Weinfeld, when the building opened its doors to great fanfare in 1934, it was the tallest building in Poland

and the fourth tallest in Europe: a symbol of the country’s growing economic might. Following the outbreak of war, the Prudential Building

(as it was then known) became an obvious target for the German artillery. In the aftermath of the Warsaw uprising of 1944, a barrage of

more than 1,000 shells saw the exterior reduced to a crumbling steel ruin. The building was rebuilt and remodelled in the socialist realism

style and reopened as the 375-room Hotel Warszawa in the 1950s, operating continuously until 2002 when it fell into neglect.

After a 10-year renovation, Hotel Warszawa reopened in 2018, boasting a new façade that honours the original 1930s designs, plus achingly

cool interiors that fuse past and present.

In the lobby, a vast reception desk carved from a single piece of wood stands before walls of brushed copper, and exposed steel beams

reveal the building’s original skeleton. Light installations by Dutch firm Quasar hover above a wood and marble floor which leads into a

vast atrium that doubles as a pre-function area for events.

One level below, Warszawska Restaurant sports a pared-back aesthetic that reveals more of the building’s concrete foundations. The

glass-fronted show-kitchen uses uniquely Polish produce to present modern, elegant dishes, and meats are cured in the venue’s own

smoke-room. Chef de cuisine Dariusz Barański also oversees Szóstka Restaurant on the sixth floor, a glass-covered fine-dining venue

bathed in natural light, that offers a small but triumphant menu of modern Polish cuisine. The fried potatoes with black garlic are to die

for, and you’ll never look at a baby carrot the same way again after trying Szóstka’s dish with butter and ricotta.

Guestrooms are designed in a medley of warm American walnut and raw industrial elements, with exposed concrete walls and original

vaulted ceilings. Brushed copper air conditioning vents reinforce the industrial vibe, while stylish leather armchairs and chrome-accented

furniture create a polished, modern aesthetic. Minimal but functional bathrooms with freestanding tubs and walk-in rain showers are

clad in acres of gorgeous patterned marble, with Acqua di Parma amenities. The hotel’s upper levels are home to its top suites, including

a two-bedroomed penthouse with an enormous terrace that covers the entire roof of the building.

Hotel Warszawa’s pièce de résistance is its spa and indoor pool. A welcoming haven of rich marble and low lighting that feels worlds apart

from urban Warsaw, it’s the perfect place to end a day spent exploring the city. JOE MORTIMER www.warszawa.hotel.com.pl



Uniquely located in Warsaw’s charming Nowe Miasto

(New Town), whose origins date back to the 15 th century

and was completely rebuilt after its destruction in WWII,

61-roomed five-star boutique Mamaison Hotel Le

Regina sits on delightful, cobbled Kościelna Street,

surrounded by ancient churches, galleries, beautiful

market squares and unpretentious eateries.

The city’s visually entertaining Multimedia Fountain

Park is located at the end of the street, which in turn

leads to the River Vistula which divides Warsaw in two.

Handsome, baroque St. Kazimierz Church is within a

stone’s throw of the hotel and the neighbouring Old

Town is just a few minutes away, with most of the city’s

main touristic sights – including the Old Town Market

Place and Royal Castle – within easy walking distance.

Warsaw’s Chopin Airport is half an hour away by taxi.

Housed within historic Mokrowsky Palace, which was

largely destroyed during WWII but faithfully restored in

the style of an 18th century palace and kitted-out with

modern amenities, the hotel’s terracotta-coloured arcaded

façade provides a lovely spot to pause with a latté and people

watch as the world goes by. Inside, the hotel’s interiors are

in keeping with its heritage, with frescoed walls, dark woods

and velvet couches adorning a spacious, marble-lined lobby.

Staff are friendly and the service is efficient and warm.

58 guest rooms, 2 suites and a 116 m² two-bedroomed

Presidential Suite are spread across three floors, with none

being a long walk from reception. Airy, mid-range superior

rooms are just the ticket for a long-weekend in Warsaw, are

decorated in a neutral colour palette and are well-equipped

with large flat screen TVs and spacious bathrooms with

twin sinks. Breakfast is a fine affair with à la carte options

and an impressive buffet featuring local hams and cheeses

plus organic produce from small farms outside the city.

During the summer months, guests can also breakfast al

fresco in the hotel’s pretty, tree-lined private courtyard..

The hotel’s La Rotisserie restaurant helmed by

chef Piotr Szulc is renowned for its tradition fare

with contemporary flavours, made using the highest

quality fresh local produce. Start with the beef tartar with

homemade mustard and follow with Szulc's delicious panfried

turbot, served with courgette flowers stuffed with

olives, baby artichoke and asparagus. Sweet-toothed guests

are amply catered for by a range of scrumptious desserts,

and one of Poland’s best sommeliers, Andrzej Strzelczyk,

expertly presides over a very good wine cellar and happily

suggests pairings for special dinners and tasting menus.

The perfect place to retreat to after a busy day treading the

town’s cobbled streets, the hotel also boasts a Roman-style

spa, sauna, indoor pool and gym. Utilising premium Spanish

skincare products by Natura Bissé in all the treatments

on offer, guests can indulge in a relaxing professional

massage before adjourning to their rooms to sleep.

The exceptional location of Mamaison Hotel Le Regina

make it the perfect base from which to explore Warsaw’s

old and new towns, perhaps as part of a two-centre citybreak.

ADRIAN GIBSON www.mamaisonleregina.com


ŁAZIENKI PALACE

POLIN

SEE

IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / MARIIA GOLOVIANKO

ŁAZIENKI ROYAL GARDENS AND PALACE

Warsaw is blanketed by parks, but there are few nicer places

to spend an afternoon than this sprawling 76-hectare space

peppered with lakes, palaces and ornamental gardens. The

jewel in the crown is the Palace on the Isle, a neoclassical edifice

acquired by King Stanisław August for use as a summer residence

in 1764. Fashioned after the great Italian villas of the 18th century,

the palace sits on its own private island and is today home of the

Royal Picture Gallery of Stanisław August. Across the park, the

Old Orangery, originally built to house exotic flora, is home to

the Royal Sculpture Gallery and the Royal Theatre, where grand

performances were held for the court and high society guests. For

the last 60 years, Łazienki Gardens have provided the backdrop

for open-air Chopin performances every Sunday from late May

until late September, when local and international orchestras

perform free concerts at midday and 16:00, weather permitting.

JOE MORTIMER www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl/en

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

Built on top of a fortified bastion a few blocks from Nowy Świat at

the upper end of the Royal Route, Ostrogski Palace is one of

the most unique buildings in Warsaw and a fitting tribute to

the nation’s beloved composer, Fryderyk Chopin. The museum

houses a charming collection of Chopin paraphernalia and

nine salons in the magnificent baroque palace are dedicated

to different aspects of his life, including one focused on his

personality and sense of humour and another dedicated to his

many female acquaintances. Down in the basement, behind

the fortified walls of the castle, Chopin’s collected works are

available for guests to listen to, alongside original manuscripts

and a bronze cast of the composer’s very talented hand. When

Chopin died in Paris in October 1849, his heart was removed

and brought back to Warsaw, according to his dying wish, and

remains in a place of honour in the Church of the Holy Cross.

JOE MORTIMER www.muzeum.nifc.pl/en

POLIN

Legend has it that when the Jews first arrived in Poland some

1,000 years ago, they stumbled upon a forest where voices on the

air whispered the word ‘Polin’: Hebrew for ‘rest here’. So began

the story of what became the largest Jewish community in the

world, a society that faced both harsh prejudice and fond favour

throughout the ages, until growing anti-Semitism culminated

in the murder of more than three million Polish Jews during

WW2. Voted European Museum of the Year in 2016, POLIN charts

the history of the Polish Jews from those early years up to the

present day. Among the prized collection exhibited across eight

immersive galleries, highlights include a 17 th century wooden

synagogue, painstakingly recreated by more than 300 craftsmen

using traditional methods and tools, and a harrowing recreation

of the Warsaw Ghetto in the 1940s. Situated opposite the

Memorial to the Warsaw Ghetto in Muranów, the pre-war home of

the Jews in Warsaw, the building itself is a work of art: a vast cube

of glass panels created by Finnish architect Rainer Mahlamäki.

JOE MORTIMER www.polin.pl/en

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM


NEON MUZEUM

MUSEUM ON THE VISTULA

SOHO FACTORY + NEON MUZEUM

The red brick warehouses of Soho Factory were once munitions

manufactories, where weapons of war were produced for the

defence of Poland. Today, it’s Polish culture that is protected here,

thanks to a collection of innovative enterprises breathing new life

into the neighbourhood. Chefs are reinventing Polish fine dining

while local fashion brands, art galleries and offices abound. Central

to the area’s revival is the Neon Muzeum, home to a collection of

Soviet-era signs that once bathed Poland’s cities in a fluorescent

glow. Founders David Hill and Ilona Karwinska began the project

in 2005, setting out to document some of Warsaw’s iconic signs,

which were often discarded as worthless relics of the communist

era. Today, the museum showcases 70 original pieces created by

some of the most talented visual artists of the time during the

‘Polish Golden Age of Neon’ between 1957 and 1970. More than

just a collection of signage, the museum captures a snapshot of

communist-era Warsaw and celebrates an important period in 20 th

century Polish design: a visual history told through the bright glow

of neon light. JOE MORTIMER www.neonmuzeum.org

KONESER

MUSEUM ON THE VISTULA

Despite the loss of countless works of Polish art during WW2, the

contemporary art movement is alive and well in modern Warsaw,

thanks to a collection of institutions celebrating the work of the

nation’s artists. Chief among them is Museum on the Vistula, the

newest exhibition space of Warsaw’s Museum of Modern Art.

Within its lofty interior, rotating exhibitions explore contemporary

themes and modern Polish culture. One of its inaugural exhibitions

in 2017 entitled ‘140 Beats Per Minute’ explored rave culture

and art in 90s Poland and the most recent, ‘Paint, Also Known

as Blood,’ was devoted to female artists addressing sexuality,

submission and domination in popular culture. Surrounded by

two other iconic buildings - the Copernicus Science Centre and the

University of Warsaw Library - the eye-catching museum (designed

by Austrian architect Adolf Krischanitz and painted by local artist

Sławomir Pawszak) is a focal point for the Vistula River’s left bank

promenade, which is lined with bars and cafés and is a great place

to stroll, cycle or zip along on one of Warsaw’s ubiquitous electric

scooters. JOE MORTIMER www.artmuseum.pl/en

KONESER + POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

Nestled among the streets of edgy Praga district, a walled

compound of century-old buildings is quickly becoming one of

the most sought-after neighbourhoods in Warsaw. Fringed by

gleaming new office blocks and premium real estate, Koneser is

made-up of former factories fused with contemporary architecture;

magnificent red brick buildings and towering chimneys with

modern glass and steel additions. Today, the vintage buildings are

home to an unusual mixture of enterprises: restaurants, design

stores, galleries and Polish clothing brands, plus a Google for

Startups Campus and the gleaming new Moxy Warsaw Praga hotel.

Bright young Varsovians and foreign visitors alike are lured by the

Polish Vodka Museum, which opened in 2012 in a distillery dating

back to 1897. The museum charts the 600-year history of Polish

vodka using multimedia and other interactive exhibits across five

galleries, with an exhibition of traditional distillation apparatus

and documents foraged from scrapyards and libraries all across

Poland. The tour starts with a short video in a fabulous cinema

clad in brushed copper and ends with a tasting of three Polish

vodkas. Don’t miss the excellent collection of vintage bottles.

JOE MORTIMER www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl/en

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM


BELVEDERE

Almost certainly the most glamorous place to dine in all of Warsaw and having been

graced by everyone from Barack Obama and Jacques Chirac to Claudia Schiffer and Mick

Jagger, beautiful Belvedere restaurant is located within the 150-year-old cast iron and glass

palm house in Royal Łazienki Park, where tropical plants surround diners creating an utterly

unique ambiance. Following a modish 2014 renovation courtesy of celebrated interior designer

and National Opera scenographer Boris Kudlička, the dining space inside the orangery is a

carefully curated mix of modern, elegant design and lush greenery, which combine to create

something of a magical atmosphere, especially in tandem with the lamp-lit park beyond

the soaring windows. Top-notch sophisticated Polish fare with a contemporary twist comes

courtesy of creative chef Sebastian Olma, who has toiled in Gordon Ramsey's and Tom Aikens’

kitchens. Meanwhile, an exceptionally good wine list is presided over by knowledgeable

and affable sommelier Piotr Zieliński. If you must choose just one place in Warsaw to have

a celebratory dinner, let it be Belvedere – of an evening the setting is simply wondrous.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.belvedere.com.pl

TASTE

BELVEDERE

OPASŁY TOM

KIELISZKI NA HOŻEJ

DER ELEFANT

OTTO POMPIERI

ROZBRAT 20

SZÓSTKA


OPASŁY TOM

KIELISZKI NA HOŻEJ

OPASŁY TOM

OPASŁY TOM

Located in the former bookshop of the State

Publishing Institute, five minutes’ walk from

Piłsudski Square in the city centre, Florenceborn

chef Flavia Borawska capitalises on

her Polish, Italian, English and Swiss roots,

coupled with stints at Noma, The Clove

Club (London) and Cibreo (Florence), to

produce utterly delectable modern takes

on Polish cuisine boasting complex flavours

yet simple, delicate presentation. Easily

one of the best places to eat in Warsaw,

Opasły Tom is spread over two floors which

have been designed with great attention

to detail and complement the dining

experience perfectly. The restaurant’s large

street-level dining room especially strikes a

beautiful balance between designed, cool

and comfortable. Featuring terrazzo floors,

corrugated steel walls upholstered with

teal-blue velvet and burl wood detailing,

the room is hung with beautiful bespoke

lamps comprising stacks of glass spheres.

The beef tartare with truffle paste starter

is unmissable, and the main course dish

of zander and leek dumplings, served

with a butter sauce, is a contemporary

Polish culinary triumph. Don’t rush a

meal at Opasły Tom – the food is just

too good not to savour every delicious

mouthful. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.kregliccy.eu/opaslytom

KIELISZKI NA HOŻEJ

As you alight your taxi on the corner of

Hoża and Poznańska, for a moment you

could be fooled into thinking you’re in Paris,

such is the character of the elegant streets

surrounding this trendy, boutique-like

restaurant and wine bar, where what’s in

your glass is as important as what’s on your

plate. Akin to a chef’s kitchen with a luxe

wine bar attached and literally translated

as ‘Glasses on Hoża’, fresh and creative

interpretations of traditional Polish cuisine

made from locally-sourced produce are

served alongside an impressive wine list

of more than two hundred vintages, all of

which are available by the bottle or glass.

Order a few small plates to share (the cod

croquettes are scrummy) and follow with

the excellent foie gras pâté. While a menu

of half a dozen mains runs the gamut from

cottage cheese dumplings to chicken,

perch, veal and lamb, be sure to leave

space for some local Polish cheeses. The

best tables in the house are up the stairs

to the right of the entrance, where diners

can observe the antics in the kitchen as

they eat. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.keliszkinahozej.pl/en

KIELISZKI NA HOŻEJ


DER ELEFANT

DER ELEFANT

OTTO POMPIERI

DER ELEFANT

A vast, multi-cuisined restaurant

established since 1990, encompassing a

variety of individually themed rooms on

different levels including a large al fresco

courtyard, Der Elefant has been satisfying

the appetites of everyone from Varsovians,

families and tourists to businessmen,

politicians and celebrities for more than

twenty-five years, thanks to its unpretentious

styling, no nonsense menu, reasonable prices

and good quality food served warmly and

efficiently by an excellent team. If time is on

your side, do as The Cultured Traveller did

and begin your Der Elefant experience in the

fish market at the front of the restaurant on

street level. Offering a range of fresh fish plus

oysters, crabs and more in a colourful dinerstyle

setting, the octopus carpaccio is to die

for and the Alaskan crab legs are a must. Then

move to a high-top table in front the bar in

the main restaurant (a good vantage point

for people watching) and order a meaty main

course. The filet mignon and lamb chops are

both excellent choices, as are the burgers. For

those with room for more, the mini dessert set

comprising small portions of crème brûlée,

malabi and chocolate mousse should satisfy

even the sweetest tooth, and is served with a

complimentary espresso to round-off the meal

in Italian style. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.derelefant.com/en

OTTO POMPIERI

Set within a smart, restored 1800s building

on Plac Bankowy that was a hotel in a former

life, this bright, buzzing and somewhat

retro Italian cantinetta serves quality and

affordable fare in polished surroundings with

its pizzas being the shining stars. Created by

established restaurateur Artur Jarczyński

out of his love for Italy, Otto Pompieri uses

high quality produce to deliver a simple menu

exceptionally well via an open kitchen, so

diners can see their pizzas being made and

baked in authentic Italian ovens. Service is

universally friendly and efficient. Start with

the rather good Burrata di Bufala, served on

a medley of tasty tomatoes, and be sure to

follow with a pizza: either a classic margherita

or a quattro formaggi. Both are scrumptious

and each is large enough to feed two people.

The restaurant’s daily changing weekday lunch

Menu del Mezzogiorno is an absolute bargain:

homemade soup to start, followed by the

pasta or risotto dish of the day, accompanied

by water, all for just PLN 21 (EUR 5). This makes

Otto Pompieri perfect for a refuelling stop in

the middle of a busy day of sightseeing in the

Polish capital. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.ottopompieri.pl

OTTO POMPIERI Sep-Nov 2019 The Cultured Traveller 77

ROZBRAT 20

SZÓSTKA

ROZBRAT 20

ROZBRAT 20

Located in a gentrified part of Powiśle

district on an unpretentious corner behind

Warsaw’s spectacular public gardens in

Rozbrat Street, this much-celebrated

restaurant serves modern Polish cuisine

fashioned in a formal style, served within a

semi-relaxed environment. Indeed, with a menu

that changes eight times per year according to

the seasons, the most formal part of Rozbrat

20 is the food. Diners may order à la carte or

chose between 6 or 8-course tasting menus.

For aficionados of fine dining cuisine, Rozbrat

20 is probably one of the best places in Warsaw

to splash out on a degustation experience

complete with wine pairing. Chef Bartek

Szymczak delivers beautifully presented food

created with flair, executed with panache and

bursting with flavours. An intricately arranged

green asparagus starter, surrounded by curls

of Polish aged kumpiak ham, pickled white and

green currant capers, cashew nuts, herbs and

edible flowers, topped with a poached quail

egg, was a gastronomic triumph. The sixth

course of The Cultured Traveller's Rozbrat 20

experience – fried New Zealand lamb loin and

Polish lamb belly cooked with garlic, rosemary,

thyme and mint – was also standout. Be sure

to arrive with an appetite if you’re planning

to opt for a tasting menu and leave space for

dessert, which, for me, was the unexpected

star of the show. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.rozbrat20.com.pl/en

SZÓSTKA

As is often the case, the most surprising

dining experience of The Cultured Traveller’s

trip to Warsaw was Sunday lunch at a

restaurant preceded with the least fanfare.

Located on the sixth floor of Hotel Warszawa

and occupying a vast, modern conservatorylike

structure with a curved glass ceiling

and a large open kitchen, Szóstka is the

second restaurant in the property and has

been garnering much praise for its chef,

Dariusz Barański. And quite rightly so, for the

unpretentious and exquisitely executed dishes

which come out of his kitchen are quite simply

superb. Szóstka’s short, seasonal à la carte

menu is based upon the availability of quality

produce from trusted suppliers, so you can

be sure that what you’re eating is made from

the finest local ingredients. Not that this isn’t

evident in the food - it is: the fried potatoes

with black garlic are incredible, and you will

have never tasted tomatoes like the carefully

curated selection served as a starter at Szóstka.

Main courses are equally impressive, and the

wine list matches the exceptionally good food.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.warszawa.hotel.com.pl

SZÓSTKA Sep-Nov 2019 The Cultured Traveller 79

THE ROOTS

SIP

WODA OGNISTA

THE ROOTS

A unique cocktail-driven venue combining the art of

bartending and mixology with Polish flavours and

creativity, it would be unfair to label The Roots as simply

a bar because the concoctions created within its walls

are highly considered, and the team which produces

them is one of the best in Warsaw. Helmed by three

talented bartenders led by Tomasz Małek, who has

won dozens of flair bartending awards not least the

WFA Roadhouse World Championships four times, when

The Cultured Traveller visited The Roots the team was

served by Arnold Skiba, who has a passion for adding

Polish herbs and spices to cocktails. Skiba's bespoke,

tailor-made cocktails, derived from years of working with

alcohol and encompassing bartending’s newest trends and

techniques, are nothing short of beverage masterpieces.

Just watching Skiba work is akin to art in action.

Customers choose from two menus at The Roots; one

featuring cocktail classics and another offering a range of

signature drinks based on seasonal Polish enhancements.

Choose from the latter and taste a little bit of Poland as

you sip your designer drink. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.therootsbar.com/en

WODA OGNISTA

Inspired by Warsaw’s 1920s-30s ‘Golden Era’, awardwinning

Woda Ognista is a celebration of pre-war Polish

lifestyle. Wood and bare brick walls are adorned with

black and white photographs of local celebrities; barmen

are smartly dressed in waistcoats and ties; and vintage

soda fountains and other period paraphernalia line the

shelves above a glowing bar. Drawing upon traditional

19 th century recipes and cocktail favourites, the menu

changes every three months to make the most of seasonal

ingredients. Signatures are given a modern twist but tailormade

according to taste. During The Cultured Traveller’s

visit, the menu was themed after the female stars of

interwar Polish cinema, with silver screen greats like Pola

Negri and Ina Benita honoured with their own creations,

featuring unusual ingredients like young pine bud liqueur

and homemade acacia flower bitters. A beautiful menu

featuring illustrations, photos and stories accompanies

each new theme, which have included the districts of

Warsaw, pre-war newspapers and the city’s most famous

venues. Peat whisky fans should order an Old Fashioned

for a dramatic and emphatically smoky experience.

JOE MORTIMER www.wodaognista.com

CHARLIE

Reminiscent of a New York style speakeasy, Charlie is

a hidden drinking gem in the heart of Warsaw, located

through the inconspicuous, unmarked archway of an

old residential building on Mokotowska Street, atop a

flight of stairs. Once inside, a rabbit warren of inviting,

interconnected rooms lead to a central space ►

WODA OGNISTA


CHARLIE

ELIXIR

CHARLIE

ELIXIR

dominated by a long, elegant Gatsby-esque bar,

presided over by polite and attentive bartenders sporting

waistcoats and ties, directed by charming stage manager

Ewa, who delightfully flits around the venue chatting with

guests and playing hostess with the mostess. Cocktails are

expertly prepared and lovingly executed with something

of a kick. The addictive toe-tapping background music

is reason enough to order a second or even third drink.

Charlie is the kind of place you say you’ll go to for one but

end up staying all night and it’s all the better for it. Open

until 2am Tuesday through Saturday, head to Charlie

for a few nightcaps after dinner and you’ll be loathed

to leave. Try to time your visit to coincide with one of

the bar’s themed parties. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.facebook.com/charliebarwarsaw

WELES

ELIXIR

Part of a distinctly vodka-themed restaurant, bar and

museum complex in the heart of Warsaw’s city centre,

ELIXIR is a smart, upmarket venue with attentive and highly

knowledgeable staff, where one can just as easily sip a

cocktail or enjoy a vodka flight as sit down for a hearty

meal of modern Polish cuisine paired with tall shots of the

clear white nectar. Boasting more than 600 varieties hailing

from Poland and around the globe, ELIXIR's incredible

collection of vodkas ranges from Polish People's Republicera

classics and the produce of small batch distillers, to

artisanal, designer, flavoured and infused vodkas, crowned

with a prized selection of rare and super-premium

vodkas. You will be amazed how the taste of vodka varies

from bottle to bottle depending upon the grain used

or the distillation process. If you have time, do spend a

memorable afternoon at ELIXIR, sampling the different

varieties in the luxe surroundings of the venue’s stylish bar.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.domwodki.pl/en

WELES

Dark, moody and intimate, Weles is a veritable temple

of liquid indulgence. Descending the stairway to the

speakeasy style bar feels like entering a crypt, where a

custom-made chandelier glittering with crystals illuminates

bare cement walls and a hammered zinc ceiling. Many of

the clientele, mostly well-dressed young professionals

and couples, are seated around a cross-shaped table

that occupies the centre of the room, an altar of mixology

at which libations are worshipped. Based around the

Slavic zodiac, the menu is wildly creative, each cocktail

embellished with homemade infusions and cordials,

unlikely ingredients and liberal helpings of herbs and

spices. ‘Svarozhich’ delivers on its promise of ‘citrus

smokiness’ with a blend of 12-year-old Chivas and organic

mescal with egg white, citrus and a dose of homemade

smoked pear infusion. Themed for the Slavic deity Weles –

a god of mischief, magic and music – an evening at Weles is

accompanied by a soundtrack swinging with 60s tunes from

Shirley Bassey and Peggy Lee. But the venue really comes

to life when the DJ takes his place at a pulpit salvaged

from a Swedish church, positioned on a mezzanine level,

to lead his flock in a cocktail-fuelled musical sermon.

JOE MORTIMER www.welesbar.pl

WELES Sep-Nov 2019 The Cultured Traveller 83

LONG BAR

LONG BAR

KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ

LONG BAR

A huge tiled mural ‘Blessed Relief’ by celebrated Polish

artist Jarosław Fliciński and a long sleek Carrera marble

bar top, echoed in a white circular marble fireplace

close-by, combine to set the sophisticated tone in Long

Bar, Raffles Europejski Warsaw’s elegant yet inviting

incarnation of the world-famous original Singaporean

venue. Here, a cool fusion of daytime culinary classics,

skilfully hand-crafted cocktails, an extensive spirits list

and a chic Asian evening menu – which includes fried

lumpia, traditional laksa and bao buns – has made Long

Bar a go-to venue for Warsaw’s most hip and discerning

spenders. Drawing upon local flavours such as quince,

gingerbread and Polish nalewka liqueur in the bar’s ginbased

Warsaw Sling has also positively engaged young,

upwardly-mobile Varsovians, and contributed to making

Long Bar one of the city’s hottest venues. Long Bar even

serves a limited-edition Chopin vodka, made from locallysourced

Augusta potatoes and estate-distilled especially

for Raffles Europejski Warsaw. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.raffles.com/warsaw/dining/long-bar

KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ

Located in the once densely populated Jewish district near

Grzybowski Square, cobblestoned Prózna Street is the only

former Warsaw ghetto street still in existence today. Every

year in late summer, the street is the epicentre of one of

Warsaw's most dynamic cultural events, Singer’s Warsaw

Jewish Culture Festival, during which the climate of the old

quarter is revived (shalom.org.pl/en). During the festival,

jazz, pop, cabaret revues, theatre, visual arts and more

fill Prózna Street and the surrounding area. Slap bang in

the middle of this action is wine bar Kieliszki na Próżnej,

its name coming from more than 1,000 Riedel glasses that

hang chandelier-like over an uber-cool bar. An extensive,

largely European wine list, sourced from prominent smalland

medium-sized vineyards, focuses predominantly on

Italy vintages. Every wine is available by the glass. While

a small but ample menu of modern interpretations of

culinary classics is well executed and beautifully presented,

this venue is really all about the wines. Sophisticated

yet unpretentious, Kieliszki na Próżnej is probably

Warsaw’s best wine bar. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.kieliszkinaproznej.pl/en

ZONI

Unveiled in mid-2018 in former Koneser vodka factory in

Praga, while Zoni is both a drinking and dining venue, The

Cultured Traveller recommends you visit for post work

drinks on a Friday night at the venue’s visually stunning and

inordinately long bar, because it’s the buzzing hub of the

place and positively rocks at the start of every weekend.

Helmed by an impressive collection of fine vodkas, not

just from Poland but also from around the world, Zoni

excels at producing delectable, hand-crafted cocktails

based on using its own infused spirits. Try a ‘Kurpini’

made with Żubrówka infused with amber and Pedro

Ximénez sherry and you almost certainly won’t stop at one!

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.zoni.today/en/cocktails

ZONI Sep-Nov 2019 The Cultured Traveller 85

PAN TU NIE STAŁ

PORCELANOWA

SPEND

PAN TU NIE STAL

Literally translated as ‘you weren’t standing here’, Pan Tu Nie Stał is

a reflection of the irreverent style of its founders, Justyna Burzyńska

and Maciej Lebiedowicz. The concept started life in 2006 in Łódź

as a blog which celebrated local Polish designs and the style of the

1960s, 70s and 80s. Today, Pan Tu Nie Stał is a clothing brand and has

three stores, including a large outlet at 34/50 Koszykowa in the heart

of the Polish capital. The first thing you’ll notice is the eye-catching

entrance and decorated staircase, fashioned out of old off-cuts of

printed plywood and decorated with reclaimed printed and neon

signs, which leads up to the shop floor. On sale is a youthful selection

of modern retro clothing for men, women and kids, plus a wide variety

of accessories and homewares, all presented in a slightly chaotic

but somewhat engaging manner. Almost everything in the store is

designed and produced in Poland, making Pan Tu Nie Stał a great

place to find something unique, hip and design-focused from Warsaw

to give as a gift. ADRIAN GIBSON www.pantuniestal.com

CLOUDMINE

CLOUDMINE

Located at 17 Paryska Street, a wide, tree-lined residential

boulevard in Saska Kępa, one of Warsaw's coolest districts,

Cloudmine may be a little away from the city’s main shopping

districts but it’s worth making the effort to visit. Founded

by Marianna Grzywaczewska, who herself designs a range of

womenswear and accessories exclusively retailed in the store and

online, Cloudmine is an elegant yet unpretentious shop that sells a

carefully curated selection of beautiful clothing for ladies, designed

by young, independent and up-and-coming Polish designers. A great

boutique to browse for a new outfit or a present for someone special,

the constantly changing displays include jewellery by Anna Ławska,

Marcelina Jarnuszkiewicz, Animal Kingdom and KOPI; ceramics by

Fenek and JAD; framed graphics and photos, lingerie by Rilke, small

pieces of furniture and tableware. Check out Cloudmine’s website for

information about regular art exhibitions and special fashion events.

ADRIAN GIBSON www.en.cloudmine.pl

PORCELANOWA

Set up by Izabela Czyżak, who left her job in IT to open shop in the

very centre of Warsaw, five minutes’ walk from Raffles hotel tucked

behind Zachęta National Gallery of Art, Porcelanowa is a bijou,

minimally-designed outlet dedicated to showcasing the very best

contemporary porcelain created by Polish artists, including pieces

by a variety of cult, internationally recognised brands, such as Aoomi

and Fenek. Whilst the store is small, it is literally brimming with all

manner of gorgeous pieces, ranging from the small to the very large,

all of which were designed and manufactured in Poland. A number of

limited editions and small-run pieces are also available to purchase.

While the stunning, huge vases by Malwina Konopacka and Monika

Patuszyńska are probably too large to take home, the sets by worldrenowned

ceramicist Marek Cecuła (for Modus Studio) are popular

with visitors from overseas and easily packed in hand luggage!

ADRIAN GIBSON www.porcelanowa.com

COLLAGE


RESET

MYSIA 3

COLLAGE

When architects Ewelina Moszczyńska and Marta Puchalska-Kraciuk

couldn’t find the right interior elements to suit their architectural

designs, they started designing and producing their own, in tandem with

local Polish craftsmen. These beautiful items can now be purchased

at Collage, together with some carefully selected pieces by Danish

designers. Situated a few doors down from much-celebrated restaurant

Rozbrat 20 and adjacent to lovely Marshal Edward Rydz-Śmigły Park

in Powiśle district, Collage may be a little off the beaten track when

it comes to shopping in Warsaw, but it’s worth the EUR 5 cab ride to

browse the store’s tastefully displayed range of original products

for women, which includes natural beauty products and cosmetics,

furniture, accessories, ladies clothing, jewellery and nightwear.

ADRIAN GIBSON www.collagecollage.pl

MYDLARNIA CZTERY SZPAKI

RESET

Reset was founded in 2011 by Agata Hasiak who started out by renovating

1950s, 60s and 70s furniture. In due course, this led to her opening a

store in the Mokotów district (south of the city centre) to showcase

her renovated furniture together with pieces produced by local artists

and craftsmen. Located next to cult Relaks Café, Hasiak's tiny store is

literally an Aladdin's cave filled to the brim with craft, art and design-led

products. Fully-stocked with items from both Polish and international

designers, spanning everything from vintage furniture to toys, posters

and prints line the walls, shelves are piled-high with crockery and gift

items and books are strewn across the shop. But it’s all displayed in

a creative, artistic fashion, obviously arranged by a well curated eye,

which encourages shoppers to browse, explore and find unique pieces

which appeal. ADRIAN GIBSON www.sklep.resetpoint.pl

MYDLARNIA CZTERY SZPAKI

A relatively young company founded by a family with a broad

understanding of handicrafts, having brewed beer, produced cheese

and made clothes previously, parents Dusia and Tomek started

Mydlarnia Cztery Szpaki by making completely natural soaps without

chemicals, fixatives or unnecessary dyes. When everything they were

producing was being snapped-up by friends and family faster than they

could produce it, they realised that they had a potential business on

their hands, and stopped making beer and cheese to focus on soap!

Within a few years their range had expanded to include body oils, peels,

deodorants, bath and hair products, all produced in the same spirit of

the soaps, without any needless ingredients and certainly no chemicals.

Shop for Mydlarnia Cztery Szpaki products in the brand’s recently

opened store in hip Koneser. ADRIAN GIBSON www.4szpaki.pl

MYSIA 3

Located between Three Crosses Square and Charles de Gaulle

Roundabout, inside a semi-industrial tenement building which was

previously a communist-era censorship office, Mysia 3 is a stylish mini

mall spread across three floors. While the ground floor is taken by wellknown

brands Muji and COS, things get more interesting as you move

upstairs, where an eclectic mix of small, independent Polish shops fill the

upper levels. From handmade shoes, fashion wear, jewellery, cosmetics

and apothecary beauty products, to shops specialising in art, books and

photography, Mysia 3 offers something off the high street for everyone,

all delivered with a contemporary Polish edge. Mysia 3 is also home to

the only store in Poland that offers the full range of cameras, lenses and

binoculars by legendary photographic brand, Leica. Atop the building

is a gallery, café, conference area and sprawling events space, the latter

having been designed in the style of a white loft, making it perfect for the

fashion shows it frequently hosts. ADRIAN GIBSON www.mysia3.pl/en


IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / AJP

ONAM

Body painted locals perform a traditional tiger dance

as part of the annual Onam festivities in Kerala, India

11 September 2019

THE PRESIDENTIAL SUITE

FAIRMONT HOTEL VIER JAHRESZEITEN, HAMBURG

Treading in the footsteps

of some of the world’s richest

20 th century shipping magnates,

Nicholas Chrisostomou drops

anchor in one of Germany’s

most opulent hotel suites,

in the port city of Hamburg

Do you know that feeling one gets, when

one’s especially excited about an experience

that’s about to happen? Like looking forward

to a good Sunday roast, or meeting-up with

a long-time friend for lunch which might get a little,

cheekily boozy. In a traveller’s world now awash with

overly-designed five-star hotels and all-singing-alldancing

resorts brimming with all manner of hi-tech

wizardry and thread-counts of close to 1,000, such

feelings of excitement are becoming rarer in advance

of a hotel experience, and are increasingly only

provoked by very special properties that in some way

connect with us emotionally.

In a day-and-age when unique personalities in

the hospitality industry are becoming rarer, many

having been replaced by faceless career-driven types

moving between hotels, so too are truly grande dame

properties becoming fewer and far between. For me,

this is one of the few, true downsides of the fastevolving

travel industry. Hotels need characters to

genuinely connect with guests.

Vegas, for instance, is crammed with vast hotels,

where even if you stay for a week, you will probably

leave not knowing the name of any staff member

who assists you or speak with. And they will almost

certainly not remember you either. This is a sad reality

of 21 st century tourism. Refreshingly, this scenario

couldn’t be further from the truth when staying at

Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten in Hamburg.

Proudly standing in a prime position on the western

side of Inner Alster Lake, commanding the attention

of Germany’s handsome second city, the Vier

Jahreszeiten is a true hotel grande dame in every

sense of the phrase.

From the bell boys and housekeepers through to

the chefs and managers, all are universally committed

to the cause, work as a team, pool their acres of

experience and are constantly driving towards the

same goal of hospitality excellence. This is evident ►

from the moment one checks into the Vier Jahreszeiten, the anticipation of which sends tingles down my

spine, as my BMW 7 Series ride glides along one of Hamburg’s grand tree-lined venues en route to the hotel.

It’s 8am on a Bank Holiday morning and the streets are worryingly devoid of all cars. Nevertheless,

a liveried bellman is standing in front of the hotel to welcome guests and the front desk is fully staffed

and primed for early check-ins. These may sound like basics, but you’d be amazed how many flashy new hotels

have no idea how to properly handle guests and hence elicit little loyalty in the travellers staying within their

portals. This is not the case at Vier Jahreszeiten, where every guest is treated like an individual, irrespective

of what room category they’re staying in, and front of house staff take a personal interest in the well-being

of arrivals from the get-go.

Like all of the world’s great hotels, Vier Jahreszeiten has a storied past. In 1897, on the day of his fortieth

birthday, South-German entrepreneur Friedrich Haerlin bought a small, nondescript and bankrupt 11-bedroomed

3-bathroomed house, then known as “Hotel zu den Vier Jahreszeiten”, at auction. Since running his own hotel

had long been a vision of his, Haerlin spent the necessary funds to furnish the property appropriately. It didn’t

take long for his investment to start paying off.


Within just a few years, the hotel was regularly hosting members of the international jet set and celebrities

from the entertainment world, as well as politicians, statesmen and European royalty. Not to mention shipping

magnates and esteemed members of Germany’s high society.

Over time, Vier Jahreszeiten’s popularity allowed Haerlin to purchase the neighbouring houses, until he had

acquired much of the street. As adjacent buildings were bought and walls were removed, more guest rooms

and new restaurants were added. By 1911, the hotel had a total of 140 bedrooms and 50 bathrooms.

In 1912, the hotel’s former reception was reconfigured as its Wohnhalle (The Living Room). In 1919, Haerlin’s

eponymous restaurant opened. Today, Haerlin has two Michelin stars and the restaurant’s culinary creativity

is renowned way beyond Hamburg. In 1925, the first dish was served within the rich Art Déco confines

of refined Jahreszeiten Grill. Almost one hundred years later, both of these venues – Haerlin Restaurant

and Jahreszeiten Grill – are still staples of Hamburg’s flourishing foodie scene.

During the early 1930s, around the same time as Friedrich Haerlin gave the hotel to his son Fritz, the Vier

Jahreszeiten was crowned with its distinctive copper roof. ►


The hotel remained family-owned for over a century, until 1989 when it was sold to Japanese husband and

wife hoteliers Chieko and John Hiroyoshi Aoki. Such was the quality of the furniture that Haerlin and his son

had installed in the Vier Jahreszeiten during the 100 years their family owned the hotel, that it continued to

be used until the turn of the millennium.

Today, owned by entrepreneur Kurt Dohle, Vier Jahreszeiten’s 156 effortlessly classy guest rooms including

30 suites, together with multiple bars and restaurants, a splendid spa, a state-of-the-art gym and even an

al fresco summer terrace which seemingly floats on the lake in front of the hotel, welcome both regulars

who have been patrons for decades alongside discerning younger money with taste.

With my luggage already in the Presidential Suite, I travel in one of the hotel’s two antique elevators to the

fourth floor and make my way towards the end of a wide, regal corridor to explore my deluxe accommodation

for the next three nights.

At more than 260 square metres, Vier Jahreszeiten’s Presidential Suite is one of the largest in Hamburg,

yet feels decidedly inviting and comfortable, thanks in large part to beautiful light oak flooring by Schotten


& Hansen which covers much of the vast space, plus an abundance of warm soft furnishings in velvets

and tweeds, and plush curtains dressing every window.

Each of the three bedrooms are accessed from the suite’s main entrance foyer, as are a large living room

bathed in plenty of natural light and boasting views directly across the lake; a stately boardroom cum

dining room known as the Alster Salon, which easily seats 12; a butler pantry and two guest cloakrooms.

Interior designed by Vier Jahreszeiten’s general manager Ingo Peters in tandem with his wife Christiane,

in honour of Fritz Haerlin who took over his father’s hotel in 1934 and was a passionate horseman, the

Presidential Suite is fittingly accessorised with a variety of horse riding-themed artworks. Some original

awards and prizes won by Fritz Haerlin in show-jumping competitions are also on display in the Alster Salon.

The same theme subtly extends to the overall colour scheme and many of the textiles in which key furniture

pieces are upholstered.

A pair of statement Lladro chandeliers designed by Bodo Sperlein, decorated with dozens of small

handmade fairies in matte white porcelain with gold wings and lit by fibre optics, hang above the huge ►


polished mahogany dining table in Alster Salon, adding a whimsical touch to what might otherwise

have been an austere room.

Gorgeous Jan Kath-designed hand-knotted rugs woven in Kathmandu, which combine classic

oriental carpet elements with modern, minimalist design, complete the timeless and diplomatic

yet contemporary and fresh design aesthetic throughout the social areas of suite.

The three bedrooms are unsurprisingly super-luxe and cosseting, each with its own chic black and

white-themed bathroom en suite. Pillow menus and black-out blinds on every window ensure that

the suite’s inhabitants enjoy the best possible sleep.

Whilst not super-sized, the well-proportioned master bedroom enjoys stunning views directly towards

the lake, a walk-in closet and a large HOESCH whirlpool tub which gives the bathroom a private spalike

feel. A TV hanging directly opposite the computerised loo makes the total number of screens in the

suite at least six, possibly seven, married with enough techy gadgets to keep even the most geeky of

kids contented.


LONG BAR

Skilfully combining antique furniture with luxe fabrics, rich materials and contemporary décor elements endears

Vier Jahreszeiten’s Presidential Suite to its inhabitants in a way like no other. To say “user friendly” would belie

its hefty price tag, but the suite is just that: majestic yet utterly usable.

As I look out towards Inner Alster Lake, I wonder what Vier Jahreszeiten’s founder Friedrich Haerlin might make

of such a sprawling, sumptuous suite occupying so much floor space of his hotel. I find it hard to imagine that

Haerlin wouldn’t be jubilant at the thought of world leaders spreading out in lavish apartment-like lodgings,

in the very same building which 120 years earlier started its hospitality life as an inconspicuous house on

a lake in Germany.

Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in The Presidential Suite at Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten in

June 2019. The suite’s nightly rate in September - November 2019 is EUR 8,000, including breakfast.

www.fairmont.com/vier-jahreszeiten-hamburg


You’ve been very busy! What drives and motivates you to get

involved in so many different projects Julien?

Travelling to far-away places, seeing exotic lands and

experiencing different cultures, people and wildlife hugely

motivate me, inspire my designs and keep me busy doing

what I love.

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER GRABS 3OO SECOND

TO TALK ABOUT HIS CHARITY WORK, NEW SW

JULIEN MA

What’s the most exciting thing happening in the designer

fashion scene at the moment?

The super brands are definitely back and creating

excitement and the power of the designer logo has never

been greater, not least the Gucci G, the Fendi F and Chanel’s

opposite-facing and interlocking C’s. Harking back to the

golden days when super brands ruled the fashion world,

people are currently obsessed with wearing their logos, on

everything from t-shirts to bags.

What prompted you to enter the swimwear industry and tell us

about your new range for Matalan?

I feel that fashion should be affordable to everyone. For my

range of “LOVE” swimwear for Matalan, I took inspiration

from one of my favorite things: animal prints. It was a

particular joy to shoot the campaign with Victoria’s Secret

model, Georgia Fowler.

What’s your next fashion-orientated Julien Macdonald project?

One of our current ongoing projects is the costumes for

Queen vocalist Adam Lambert. Adam is wearing Julien

Macdonald originals throughout the current Queen tour,

which will take in Korea, Japan and New Zealand before

finishing up in Australia next year.

You recently celebrated the 70 th anniversary of the Royal Welsh

College Music and Drama as a guest of Prince Charles and HRH

the Duchess of Cornwall. How did it feel to be Welsh that night?

I’m very proud to be Welsh and honestly think that being

Welsh has kept me grounded over the years! I have a longstanding

relationship with the Duchess of Cornwall, since

she is president of the National Osteoporosis Society for

which I staged a charity fashion show last year. She’s an

incredible lady. Over the years I’ve also had the pleasure of

meeting Prince Charles many times. We chatted about my

love of Wales and what being Welsh means to me.

Tell us about your 300-mile charity cycle ride earlier this year?

I cycled from Zagreb to Split to raise money for The Felix

Project, which collects surplus food and re-distributes it to

charities and schools where needed. It’s a simple model

that contributes to reducing food waste and food poverty.

I enjoyed the challenge and really believe in the cause.

The cycle ride was particularly challenging since we had

to start at 4.30am due to the heat. But I was thrilled ►


S WITH THE LONDON-BASED KING OF CRYSTAL

IMWEAR LINE AND TRAVELLING THE GLOBE

CDONALD

when I completed it. I enjoy participating in charity events

because they give me an opportunity to raise money for

worthy causes and meet inspirational people.

When you’re not working, you’re renowned for travelling as

much as you can. Where are your favorite perennial destinations?

Bali has always been an inspiration for me, particularly the

island’s rich culture, rice paddies, textiles and traditional

values. Soori Bali is my favourite place to stay – it’s a

divine resort designed by renowned Chinese architect

Soo K. Chan (www.sooribali.com). I can never get

enough of Miami, especially during Art Basel, which

brings together an incredibly diverse mix of people and

Soho Beach House puts on the best parties every night

(www.sohobeachhouse.com). I especially love eating out

in Miami - some of my favourite restaurants are Komodo

in Brickell (www.komodomiami.com), STK steakhouse in

South Beach (www.stksteakhouse.com) and NaiYara for

the best sushi in town (www.naiyara.com).

Somewhere you’d like to visit but haven’t had the chance to yet?

I enjoy visiting ancient places rich in culture and I am

particularly interested in monasteries, temples and old

churches. I have never been to Japan and would love to see

the cherry blossoms and learn about Japanese culture. Also,

I have never been to Australia and have always wanted to

visit the Great Barrier Reef since I’m sure that the bright

colours and sea life would be a great source of inspiration.

Your favorite hotel in the world?

Frégate Island in the Seychelles is a favourite and

undoubtedly one of the most exclusive destinations on the

planet (www.fregate.com).

Any tips for arriving looking fabulous after a long flight?

Wear a huge pair of sunglasses as you disembark the ‘plane

and try to sleep as much as you can during the flight. It is

important to be comfortable whilst travelling – I change

into a cashmere track suit, cashmere socks and put on a

cashmere eye mask. I spray all of my chair and bedding

with a lavender infused Elemis relaxing mist which helps

me sleep. Just before I get off the ‘plane, I pat a little NUXE

body oil on my face and arms (nuxe.com), apply Murad

moisturiser over the top (murad.com) and lastly spray

some Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin scent for an instant

pick-me-up! (jomalone.co.uk)

How do you relax after putting on a fashion show?

I get away somewhere different. Pretty much any tropical

island will do, where I can relax on a beach, recover and

forget about the stress of it all. www.julienmacdonald.com


The Cultured Traveller steps back into

the Golden Age of Travel at retro Eero

Saarinen-designed TWA HOTEL, which

instantly became the world’s coolest

airport hotel when it opened at JFK

There was a time when flying was considered

glamorous and exclusive and stepping aboard

a jet cost an awful lot more than it does today.

Before airlines were deregulated in the late 1970s,

carriers such as Pan Am and Trans World Airlines

(TWA) flew passengers around the world in supreme

comfort, their every need attended-to by flight

attendants dressed in designer uniforms serving

food prepared by the likes of Maxim’s of Paris.

This halcyon era of flying was a period of sumptuous

design, both pre-flight and in-flight, and a time

during which the flying experience – from the

visual look of the cabin, to stewardess’ uniforms

and even the silverware – was fastidiously

fashioned by some of the world’s top designers.

By allowing passengers to purchase flights in

discounted packages and offering extended

payment plans, TWA was a key player in the

development of commercial air travel after the

Second World War, making it much more accessible

to America’s burgeoning middle classes.

In 1954, with air travel on the rise, the Port of

New York Authority instigated a plan to expand

Idlewild Airport (JFK today), to allow the airport


to handle considerably more air traffic in and out

of New York City. The plan called for each major

airline to design, construct and operate its own

independent terminal. This included TWA.

Intending from the outset for its terminal to provide

the airline with advertising, widespread publicity

and media attention, in 1955, TWA approached

Finnish-American architect Eero Saarinen with

a project to design something special for the

apex of the airport’s main access road.

Capturing the sensation of flying in all aspects

of his futuristic structure, from its fluid and

open interior to the wing-like concrete shell of

the roof, Saarinen designed much more than a

functional terminal. In essence, he designed a

monument to the airline and to aviation itself.

Saarinen passed away in 1961 having only

seen the superstructure of his unique building

completed. Little did he know that it was to

become an icon of the Golden Age of Travel.

Dubbed the Grand Central Station of the jet age

and epitomising the glamour and optimism of

the time, the stunning mid-century modern TWA

Flight Center opened to great acclaim in 1962 ►

as the airline’s headquarters, at the very moment

that the American carrier reigned supreme.

Unsurprisingly, the TWA Flight Center was

designated a New York City landmark in 1994.

However, since its design was largely completed

before 1958, when the first jet planes began to

supersede their propeller-driven forerunners, TWA’s

beautiful terminal was ill-suited to support the size

of modern aircraft. And despite many upgrades, the

TWA Flight Center was never really able to keep pace

as jet planes grew in size and number. After TWA

was acquired by American Airlines amid financial

struggles in 2001, sadly the terminal closed its doors.

Listed on the National and New York State

Registers of Historic Places in 2005, save for the

occasional tour and other miscellaneous events,

Saarinen’s masterpiece building sat largely unused

until conversion work commenced in 2016.

Restoring the beloved building, constructing two brand

new wings behind it to house the hotel’s guest rooms

and building a massive new conference center was a

massive endeavour involving 22 government agencies

and more than 170 firms. Around 450 tradespeople

worked on site every day for more than two and a half

years, to create a refined guest experience in complete

harmony with Saarinen’s air travel tour de force.


Something of a time traveller’s dream, TWA Hotel has

been consciously and skilfully designed to make visitors

feel as if they’ve slipped through a time portal and

landed back in the early days of the Jet Age, complete

with all the nostalgia and glamour of the time.

Designed by New York City firm Stonehill Taylor

and set in two low-rise buildings designed to defer

to Saarinen’s terminal, the hotel’s 512 ultra-quiet

1960s-inspired guest rooms feature authentic midcentury

modern furnishings and gleaming terrazzotiled

bathrooms, complete with Hollywood-style

vanities and bubble lights inspired by Philip Johnson’s

iconic ladies’ lounge in New York City’s former Four

Seasons restaurant. Accessible through Saarinen’s

iconic flight tubes made famous by the 2002 film

Catch Me If You Can, all guests rooms are accented

with warm timber elements to soften the spaces.

Furnishings include Saarinen’s iconic Womb Chair,

upholstered in red Knoll fabric, which sits beside

a classic round Saarinen pedestal tulip side table.

Meanwhile, an armless Saarinen executive chair,

wrapped in tan leather, is tucked into a custom

walnut, brass and glass desk. A walnut entryway unit

includes storage, a mini fridge and a concealed safe.

Ensuring that guests can watch planes take-off ►

without hearing them, the hotel’s rooms are separated

from one of the busiest airports on the planet by full-width

windows made from the second-thickest glass in the world

(after the U.S. Embassy in London), comprising seven panes

totalling 4.5 inches thick.

Guests can make unlimited free international and local calls on

a retrofitted 1950s Western Electric 500 vintage rotary phone.

Every room features a glamorous martini bar, custom built

from brushed brass, walnut, glass and mirrors and stocked

with all the ingredients one might need to facilitate the perfect

cocktail hour.

Beds are lined in brushed brass and a quilted headboard

features a glass ledge to hold overnight accessories.

Being a guest at TWA Hotel goes a long way to recreating the

level of excitement for and pride in aviation that travellers once

felt during the rise of the industry. Staying at the hotel also

provides a serene refuge from which to enjoy inimitable views

of Saarinen’s terminal and JFK airport, not to mention being

super-close to your next flight!

Elsewhere within the sprawling hotel, which is not unlike a

21st century global village, multiple restaurants and bars cater

to the needs of busy travellers, including a food hall featuring

multiple NYC culinary institutions; a café and bar helmed

by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and an original Lockheed

Constellation L-1649A Starliner nicknamed “Connie”, which

has been repurposed as a cocktail lounge. The last in the line

of Lockheed Constellations, the L-1649A Starliner was first

designed for TWA, so it is only fitting that one should sit right

in front of Saarinen’s terminal today, positioned on the tarmac

between the TWA Flight Center and Terminal 5.

Also, on property, is a museum focused on the Jet Age, the

mid-century modern design movement and TWA, complete

with vintage air hostess uniforms by Valentino, Ralph Lauren

and Stan Herman on display.

A rooftop pool, 10,000-square-foot observation deck

overlooking runway 4L/22R and a massive fitness center

complete TWA Hotel’s range of leisure offerings, should a short

layover turn into a short stay.

Conceived as a posthumous collaboration with Eero Saarinen

and delivering copious quantities of high-performance

nostalgia and retro glamour, the reborn TWA Flight Center

delivers on every hospitality level and is almost certainly

reason enough to stopover at JFK on your next visit to

New York. www.twahotel.com


ALBUQUERQUE INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA

Hundreds of hot air balloons from dozens of countries simultaneously mass

ascend into the skies above the Sandia Mountains in the United States

5-13 October 2019

SHANGRI-LA’S HAMBANTOTA GOLF RESORT & SPA

HAMBANTOTA, SRI LANKA

Hambantota

Using Shangri-La’s luxurious Hambantota resort as a base,

Carolyn McKay discovers the stunning, relatively unexplored

southern coastline of the Indian Ocean island of Sri Lanka

WALAWE RIVER

It was while on an expedition commissioned

by Chinese Emperor Kublai Khan to retrieve

the tooth of the Buddha, that 13 th century

explorer Marco Polo first laid down his

moorings on the island of Ceylon

Enamoured by its ivory coastlines and emerald jungles,

its port markets laden with fragrant spices bound for the

trade routes of Asia, and the resplendent abundance of its

mineral heritage, he found fit to proclaim it “undoubtedly

the finest island of all its size in the world.” He wasn’t

wrong. Ceylon, or Sri Lanka as the island became known

in 1972, has since captivated the hearts of explorers,

bohemian wanderers and discerning travellers, many

of whom visit the teardrop isle in search of a soulful

connection with the intangible.

To the very south of the island, approximately four

hours’ drive from Colombo’s international airport and

surrounding the port city of Hambantota, crystal clear

seas, magnificent sweeping sandy beaches, a wealth of

archaeological sites and an opportunity to witness firsthand

some of Sri Lanka’s most spectacular wildlife make

this part of Sri Lanka worthy of much closer inspection.

Historically seen as a thoroughfare en route to some of the

country’s most well-known national parks means that the

south of Sri Lanka boasts some of the most untouched areas

of the island, including some rather beautiful hill country. In

the past few years, the gradual addition of new infrastructure

is gently opening-up the area to adventurers with a yearning

for something a little more authentically Sri Lankan.


A distinct sense of adventure infuses the air when

travelling along the sometimes-chaotic main thoroughfare

that edges the south of the island. Traditional fishing

villages and verdant green rice paddies bordering

the road provide an insight into everyday life.

As one travels further east, the rural landscape becomes

sparser, until one enters a noticeably more remote and semiarid

region that seemingly boasts its own micro-climate.

When we leave behind the traffic and take a discreet turning

onto a narrow, dusty track, calm immediately prevails.

Nestled between a peaceful lagoon and the everchanging

tidal activity of the Indian Ocean, and set upon

the grounds of a former coconut plantation hugging

a stretch of the island’s coastline as yet not overrun by

tourism development, Shangri-La’s Hambantota Resort

is genuinely a palm-fringed retreat and the perfect

deluxe base from which to explore nearby Bundala and

Yala parks and the temple complex at Kataragama.

Having opened just three years ago and filling almost 60

hectares, it is the country’s largest resort, with 300 rooms

and 21 suites housed within two wings cascading away

from the centre. Filled with 4,000 king coconut trees,

Shangri-La’s Hambantota property has the lush, earthy feel

of an eco-resort, resplendent with riotous tropical gardens

and guest rooms situated along cooling breezeways with

constant sightlines to the ocean. It is from this luxurious

beachfront haven that I plan to discover more of Sri Lanka. ►

IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / FABIAN WIESER

From left to right, Shangri-La’s Hambantota Golf Resort & Spa

New arrivals are welcomed into a large open-air pavilion that

serves as a supremely laidback lobby. The décor is earthy and

tropical with wooden floors, a multitude of inviting seating,

hand-woven rugs and cerulean splashes of blue that draw

your eye outwards towards rambling gardens brimming

with colour, verdant vistas of the resort’s golf course and

uninterrupted views of the Indian Ocean. After a cool

lemongrass-infused towel and a zesty mint and mango juice,

I relax and take in the spectacular panorama. It is monsoon

season but there is little rain. However, the turbulent sea adds

a sense of wild and unchecked beauty to the proceedings.

Crossing the threshold into a Premier Ocean Room,

my shoes come off and I am immediately drawn to an

oversized balcony offering panoramic views. Natural

materials are liberally used throughout the space,

interspersed with Sri Lankan art and handicrafts. I can’t

decide whether to soak in the oversized tub with a

glass of vino or sit outside and gaze at the sun slowly

descending over the ocean. I opt to recline on a chaise on

the balcony, close my eyes and take a deep breath, to a

soothing soundtrack of waves crashing on the shore.

An evening stroll takes me through the gardens and along

curved pathways where preening peacocks parade. On the

beach, sea spray dampens my face and my toes sink into

sand still warm from the day. I wander back into the heart

of the resort and chance upon Gimanhala Lounge. With its

sprawling deck and elevated views, this is obviously the

place to sip a sundowner at golden hour in Hambantota.


Dinner is served in a candlelit gazebo positioned on a slight rise

overlooking the ocean, under clear skies awash with twinkling

stars. Lights from local fishing boats form a string of pearls

along the horizon. Freshly caught tuna cooked to perfection

is the highlight of a sumptuous seafood platter prepared by a

personal chef and served with a tangy tomato salsa. I sleep

divinely well, having chosen the perfect pillow from a menu.

In the early hours of the next day, my breakfast is packed

to-go and we depart the resort for Yala National Park as dawn

is breaking. Passing through a natural elephant corridor,

the sun’s rays shimmer on the salterns and I delight in the

birds’ morning chorus. Yala can get a little crowded, but

at this time of the year (June) there are few other jeeps

in the park, which bodes well for spotting wildlife.

Originally a hunting ground for the British during colonial rule,

Yala’s grassy plains, lagoons and tangled forests are now a

playground for a healthy leopard population as well as sloth

bears, crocodiles, deer and a plethora of birdlife.

Ranging from a small honeyeater sitting at the end of a narrow

branch to a large Malabar pied hornbill looking like he might

topple over at any moment, we observe a dazzling array of

birdlife. A lumbering sloth bear making a rare appearance

for a good ten minutes makes the early morning call utterly

worthwhile.

Back at the resort, I spend a blissful afternoon at Shangri-La’s

first CHI Ayurveda Spa – a holistic retreat where treatments are

tailored to each guest’s individual well-being requirements, ►


after consultation with an in-house ayurvedic doctor. A

signature shirodhara treatment clears my mind leaving me

relaxed and rebalanced. Afterwards, I sip ayurvedic tea in the

spa’s overwater relaxation terrace and revel in the peace and

quiet of the space.

The next day, after a lazy afternoon by the pool, I jump in

a tuk-tuk to nearby Walawe River, which winds its way

for almost 40 km from Adam’s Peak to the Indian Ocean.

An evening boat safari, organised by the hotel, is another

opportunity to engage with Sri Lanka’s wonderful flora and

fauna. We gently meander through the graceful twists and

turns of the waterway with chattering monkeys, graceful ibis

and jungle fowl for company. As the sun begins to the set,

the riverbank foliage creates stunning silhouettes in the sky.

One of Sri Lanka’s most important, sacred and popular

pilgrimage sites, dating back to the 2 nd century BC,

Kataragama is but a one-hour drive from Shangri-La

Hambantota and most certainly worth visiting, especially

if you happen to be in the area in July and August when the

annual festival draws thousands of pilgrims. During this

blessed time, Buddhists, Muslims, Hindus and Vedda people,

together with fire walkers and Kawadi dancers, combine

pomp and ceremony with devotion and religious excess as

they process around the shrine. It’s a truly spectacular sight.

Committed to preserving the island’s rich cultural heritage,

Kadamandiya village at the Shangri-La offers a glimpse

into the traditions of Sinhalese culture. Here, visitors explore

the studio huts that house painters, potters, weavers,


sculptors and other artisans, whose wares are available

to purchase. In the evening, the space is transformed into

a performance area for traditional dance and Angampora

displays – a martial art indigenous to the island.

Marking the jewel in the property’s crown is its par-70

18-hole golf course designed by Rodney Wright. The

course takes players through water features and lush

fairways complete with breathtaking ocean views. Unique

in its attention to detail in the realms of biodiversity and

protection of natural habitat, the course was crafted with

sustainability in mind – repurposing an abandoned sapphire

mine, restoring vegetation and re-introducing birdlife.

Shangri-La’s tantalising array of dining options ensures

that guests never go hungry! Far from it, I feast like a

queen throughout my stay, enjoying alfresco breakfasts

at Bojunhala and dinners at Sera amid a veritable

southeast Asian hawker’s market of street food.

Spending time in the south of the island reminds me

that Sri Lanka continues to be a balm for the soul.

The British author James Hilton described the lost

world in his 1933 novel as ‘Shangri-La’ – a mystical

earthly paradise full of harmony and wonder. Hidden

away on the south coast of Sri Lanka, Shangri-La’s

idyllic Hambantota resort is undoubtedly one of the

country’s most wonderful properties, not to mention

the perfect base from which to explore some of the

many natural jewels that the enchanting island has

to offer. www.shangri-la.com/hambantota

IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / MOHAMEDSHA

TRAVELLER

LOWDOWN

Exploring its cobbled streets

and pends from the luxe

surrounds of The Kingdom

Of Fife Suite, Nicholas

Chrisostomou discovers that

there is much to do in of one

of Scotland’s oldest towns

aside from playing golf

Home to one of the oldest championships

in the world, St Andrews in Fife is as

synonymous with golf as haggis is

with bonnie Scotland and Glasgow is

with Charles Rennie Mackintosh. But

who knew that as well as sporting some of the

finest golfing facilities on the planet, St Andrews

also boasts a beautifully unspoilt Scottish

town, complete with the ruins of a medieval

cathedral and castle and a picture-postcardperfect

harbour? I, for one, did not. But now I do,

I’m somewhat enamoured with the place. ►


FAIRMONT ST ANDREWS

A four-hour train ride or short flight from London will

get you to Edinburgh, northeast of which the seaside

town of St Andrews is just a 60-minute drive, on

Scotland’s magnificent east coast. It’s easily doable

for a long weekend and, as I discovered, there’s

oodles to keep even a non-golfer happy. Not least,

the wonderful countryside surrounding St Andrews

is quite simply stunning, sufficiently so to silence

me from chatting to my affable driver Gordon, as

I am being whisked in the back of an S-Class to

my lodgings at Fairmont St Andrews resort.

Surrounded by more than 500 acres of prime

seaside and golfing real estate and embraced

by two championship golf courses, The Kittocks

and The Torrance, the somewhat unpretentious

facade of Fairmont St Andrews belies a dramatic

and spacious interior within, deftly fashioned to

reflect its unique, elevated location surrounded by

lush green fairways and the North Sea beyond.

Restrained luxury best describes the design

aesthetic throughout the hotel, from the huge open

fireplace in the reception area, complete with tartan

accents, to the cavernous 50-metre cathedrallike

atrium, lit by massive triple-height windows at

either end. A sophisticated colour palette of deepsea

blues and sandy browns echoes the hotel’s

location and surrounding topography and lends a

sense of calm to the space. Crowning the room is

a considerable, glittering, chandelier-like sculpture

‘Zephyr’, by artist George Singer, which undulates

above guests, its multiple layers of lighting casting

soft kinetics and shadows below. This extravagant

yet restrained overall feeling of space and light

extends throughout the hotel to its 211 guest rooms

and suites, multiple drinking and dining options,

and extensive spa with 10 treatment rooms.

While many of the guest rooms at Fairmont St Andrews

benefit from spectacular vistas across the great sweep

of St Andrew’s Bay, the best hotel suite in the county is

almost certainly also the property’s crowning hospitality

glory: The Kingdom Of Fife Suite. The panoramic,

sweeping views from the suite’s private balcony quite

literally take one’s breath away, and are reason enough

to part with GBP 750 to spend the night in such luxury.

After unpacking, I head into town to tread St Andrews’

cobbled streets and adventure through its concealed

pends. It’s not long before I discover a treasure trove ►


of hidden architectural gems and I am at once

entranced. Age-old streets and passageways

passing through buildings, yield everything from

courtyards and quaint shops to traditional Scottish

vernacular architecture and historic ruins shrouded

in secrets. One could spend days exploring

St Andrews’ streets, pausing to admire its buildings

and learning about its architectural landmarks.

Commanding its own Wikipedia page,

sightseeing fuel doesn’t come much tastier than

one of Fisher & Donaldson’s famous fudge doughnuts,

filled with creamy custard and topped with

fudge icing. Such is their cult following, that the

secret recipe has been passed down through four

generations, is split into two parts and hidden across

five locations. (www.fisheranddonaldson.com)

Roaming around the ruins of St Andrews Cathedral,

which dominated Scottish religion until 1560, one can

only imagine how spectacular it was in its heyday. Once

the largest cathedral in all of Scotland and headquarters

of the medieval Scottish church, in centuries past it

attracted pilgrims from far and wide. Even in its ruinous

state today, St Andrews’ imposing cathedral exudes a

sense of stateliness and charm. Predating the cathedral

but located within its grounds, for a fiver you can climb

to the top of 12 th century St Rule’s tower and take

in spectacular views across St Andrews and Fife.

Named Scottish Pub of the Year in 2018 and

established since 1874, the small family run Criterion

in the heart of St Andrews is the perfect place to pit

stop for lunch or a cocktail. Sit outside and people

watch on South Street while tucking into a steak

and ale “CRI PIE’ topped with the puffiest pastry, or

choose from more than 70 Scottish gins to sip the

perfect G&T. (www.criterionstandrews.co.uk)

Founded in 1413 by a papal blessing and where Prince

William famously met Catherine Middleton, St Andrews

is very much defined by its prestigious and aesthetically

attractive university which is steeped in history. As diverse

as its 8,000 students which hail from more than 100

countries, the university also plays hosts to a harmonious

mix of architectural styles, which spans everything from

Gothic revival to brutalist, so a stroll around its campus

is a must. But avoid visiting St Andrews completely

during the graduation ceremonies in June and November,

plus the weeks either side, since you’ll struggle to find

a place to rest your head at a reasonable price! ►


IMAGE FAR RIGHT © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / NATAKORN SAPERMSAP

Every Sunday during term time, look out for hundreds

of undergraduate students walking St Andrews Harbour

pier, wearing the university’s traditional red gown

in different ways, depending on which year they are

in. And every year on April 30 th , in a tradition known

as ‘The Gaudie’, students led by a piper process by

candlelight to the East Sands, where they lay a wreath

at the site of the shipwreck of the Janet of Macduff.

Part of a stretch of natural undefended coastline and

famous for the opening scenes of the internationally

acclaimed film Chariots of Fire, West Sands is the

most famous of St Andrews’ three beaches and

extends for almost two completely uninterrupted

miles, bordered by a large expanse of sand dunes

and the world-renowned Old Course. When the

tide’s out, there is no better place to stretch your

legs in St Andrews and let the North Sea breezes

clear your head, and once the sand is at your feet,

the sense of getting away from it all is absolute.

At one time the very life-blood of St Andrews, when

the town’s early inhabitants would go about simple

lives of fishing and farming, its picturesque harbour

is inextricably linked with the life of the coastal

town it serves and small fishing boats still bring in

fresh shellfish daily. Bordered by a row of colourful

buildings and stacks of lobster pots on the quayside,

the harbour is the perfect place to pause after a busy

day of sightseeing and enjoy the fresh sea air.

On your way out of town, heading back to Fairmont St

Andrews, be sure to stop at Balgove Larder. A butchery,

café, farm shop and steak barn all rolled into one,

Balgove is a treasure trove of delicious foodie goodies

which showcases the best local produce under one

roof like nowhere else in Scotland. (balgove.com)

Stroll along miles of unspoilt sandy coastline where

an Oscar-winning movie was filmed. Follow old paths,

explore ancient streets and marvel at magnificent ruins.

Wander along winding trails and explore botanical

gardens. Feast on delicious fare and sample locallymade

gins. Gorge on doughnuts or catch a show at

the theatre. Or play a round of golf on a world-famous

championship course. Everything is possible in one

of Scotland’s oldest towns. An effortless, unspoiled

combination of ancient and modern, traditionally

local and international, St Andrews is truly a town

like no other. (www.visitscotland.com)


KINGDOM OF FIFE SUITE

FAIRMONT ST ANDREWS, SCOTLAND

Ancestral home of numerous Scottish monarchs, world famous for its golf links

and boasting some of Scotland’s best scenery, Fife is a proud and historic

region with its own distinct identity and terrain that varies from gentle hills

in the rural hinterlands to windswept cliffs, rocky bays and sandy beaches.

The seaside town of St Andrews on Scotland’s east coast, together with the surrounding

hills and hamlets, have always evoked a dramatic yet comforting and traditional feel. It is

this same sense of ancient, inviting and inspiring natural geography which is reflected in

Fairmont St Andrews’ recently refreshed Kingdom of Fife Suite.

Situated in the north wing of the property and the largest accommodation in the building,

this veritable presidential suite’s generous square meterage offers magnificent views of

the resort’s two golf courses, rugged coastline and the town of St Andrews in the distance.

Comprising a huge bedroom with decadent marble-lined bathroom en-suite; over-sized

dressing room with separate butler entrance; spacious dual-aspect open-plan living and

dining room, and guest cloakroom, the Kingdom of Fife Suite is crowned by a private

terrace offering panoramic, sweeping vistas towards the North Sea and beyond, accessed

from both the lounge and bedroom. The suite has also been configured in such a way as

to optionally add a second connected bedroom en-suite, which opens into the main living

space as well as having a separate entrance from the corridor outside.

The interior design aesthetic of the Kingdom of Fife Suite is heavily influenced by the

history and topography of St Andrews and features a traditional yet sophisticated mix

of textures and materials that link its rooms to the striking landscape beyond their walls.

The location of St Andrews and the fishing villages that surround the town are specifically

referenced via a rope design in the carpets and knotted tie-backs complimenting fulllength

pure wool curtains. To further anchor the suite in its location, a number of Scottish

suppliers provided its main décor elements, including wallpapers by avant-garde

Glaswegian textile designers Timorous Beasties.

Meanwhile, the suite’s furniture is upholstered in fabrics produced by a number of

celebrated Scottish companies, including Andrew Muirhead. Overall, the effect is one

of warmth and comfort, imbuing the suite with an intensely cosy and inviting atmosphere

to contrast the sometimes-dramatic weather of St Andrew’s Bay.

To complement this inviting ambiance of understated luxury, new artworks were

commissioned for the suite in tandem with Peter Millard and Partners. These include

a mixed media collage-like piece hanging above the fireplace, which combines local

historical elements and maps to make an eye-catching centrepiece and cultural focal

point in the suite’s lounge.

In its new incarnation and boasting such a breathtaking location and splendid outlook,

the Kingdom of Fife Suite is almost certainly the county’s most outstanding accommodation

and the perfect place from which to explore the stunning surrounding countryside and

gorgeous town of St Andrews. www.fairmont.com/st-andrews-scotland


MASSKARA

Hundreds of Filipinos wearing ornate masks and elaborate costumes perform in the streets of

Bacolod on the northwest coast of Negros Island, at the city’s world-famous annual MassKara festival

6-28 October 2019

SPOTLIGHT

ABANDONED PRIPYAT AMUSEMENT PARK

VISITING

CHERNOBYL

While visiting Ukraine, Carl Roberts is inexplicably

drawn to the haunting exclusion zone surrounding

the site of the world’s greatest nuclear disaster

The Chernobyl monument and beyond it the New Safe Confinement encasing reactor 4

There’s something about leaping off a cliff attached to land by only a piece of elastic, or launching oneself from

a mountain attached to some large plastic sheeting. We all know that we really ought not to bungee jump or

paraglide, but the perceived thrill derived from such extreme sports usually far exceeds the risks.

The same is true of visiting forbidden lands or venturing to places where Mother Nature clearly has the upper hand. More

people have visited North Korea or attempted to climb Mount Everest in the past year than ever before, but the number

of deaths on the slopes of the world’s tallest mountain have never been greater.

Whilst one’s feet stay firmly on the ground when entering the area surrounding the site of the world’s greatest nuclear

disaster, in many ways it is no less dangerous than visiting any number of volatile nations around the planet, especially

if one doesn’t follow instructions.

Such is the draw of dark tourism these days, that long before the HBO drama Chernobyl appeared on our screens earlier


The entrance to Pripyat town near Chernobyl

this year, more than 10,000 people had already visited the former nuclear site, despite the fact that it had only been open

to the public since 2011 when authorities deemed it safe.

One of the worst man-made catastrophes ever to befall our planet, a corner of the Ukraine has been locked in time for

more than three decades since reactor number four of Chernobyl’s Vladimir Ilyich Lenin Nuclear Power Plant exploded

overnight on 25-26 April 1986, raining smoke and debris across half of Europe. Such was the power of the explosion, that

it sent 400 times more radioactive material into the Earth’s atmosphere than the atomic bomb which was dropped on

Hiroshima. Around 30 percent of Chernobyl’s 190 metric tons of uranium eventually ended up in the air.

Following the incident, the Soviet government evacuated almost 50,000 people from a 30-kilometre exclusion zone

around the blast area, including the nearby town of Pripyat, 100 kilometres from the Ukrainian capital.

The area is likely to be uninhabitable by humans for many generations to come. But since more than 30 years have ►


passed since the explosion, local tour companies insist that the site is safe to visit. And, just a few months ago, Ukrainian

President Volodymyr Zelensky signed a decree changing the fortunes of the disaster area into a tourist attraction,

which will see walking trails and waterways added, mobile phone reception improved and filming restrictions lifted.

By comparison, Ukrainian officials have suggested that Pripyat will not be habitable for another 20,000 years.

Just a two-hour drive from Kiev, Chernobyl is indeed an easy and fascinating day trip. But in light of the potential hazards, it is

essential to book an organised tour with an official operator, such as Chernobyl Tours (chernobyl-tours.com). Unapproved

tours are simply not worth the risk!

Our Chernobyl adventure begins at 8am on a cold February morning at Kiev’s main train station where we meet our

guide. On the 2-hour drive in a cosy minibus, heading north of the capital towards the exclusion zone, we watch a

video which provides background about the disaster and are furnished with personal Geiger counters. Meanwhile, our

guide explains the dos, don’ts and the hazards we are about to face. While there are still radiation hot spots within


the exclusion zone, official tours steer clear of these, and we are informed that the levels to which we are about to be

exposed are the same as a transatlantic flight. Saying this, the form we must sign is a tad alarming: “I understand and

fully realise staying in the area with high levels of ionizing radiation can cause potential harm to my life and health in

the future.”

In addition to the city of Chernobyl and nearby Pripyat, it was surprising to learn that some 160 smaller villages within

the zone were also forcibly abandoned, although it took 36 hours before buses turned up to move people. Evacuees were

told to take only the bare necessities, because they would be able to return a few days later. It would be a year before

the first elderly residents were allowed to return to their villages and stay, most of whom have since passed away.

Before arriving at the first of two check points, we are warned not to touch dogs and other animals, because their

movement was not restricted to the safe areas and their fur may carry radioactive material. A veritable state within a

state with its own rules, entry to the exclusion zone is strictly monitored (as one would expect), and secured by ►

camouflaged military personnel carrying automatic rifles, with checks at 30km and 10km out. At both points we

disembark and are escorted into bland rooms with huge radiation scanners. We are scanned on the way in and on the

way out. Needlessto say, nothing can be removed from the zone.

Since the people were evacuated, nature has reclaimed the area and wildlife has flourished. Some even suggest that, as

a result of years of minimal human impact, the zone may have a bright future as a nature reserve. We were fortunate

in that our visit coincides with the first major snowfall of the year, so the entire area is carpeted with a blanket of fresh,

clean snow.

Our first stop is an old village which had been home to an elderly resident who passed away last year. Houses are

hidden by the dense vegetation. The buildings are standing but their wooden floorings are no more. Newspaper pages

are strewn about one of the houses, while the furniture and apparatus within an old doctor’s surgery is wasting away.

In the fresh snow the scene is both surreal and serenely peaceful.


Back on the main road we proceed to Pripyat, just over a mile from the nuclear plant, stopping at an old nursery school

on the way. The simple crayon drawings pinned to the wall have the children’s’ names in Cyrillic below. The artists

would be in their 30s and 40s by now.

Formerly a model Soviet metropolis, erected especially to house Chernobyl’s workers, barbed wire encircled Pripyat until

2000. Today, its football stadium is filled with nothing but poplars and the now famous amusement park appears eerily

abandoned in the freezing air. The fair should have opened for the May Day celebrations. It never welcomed a single child.

Hospitals, schools and homes are still filled with communist iconography and the possessions their former inhabitants

left behind, and the decayed village serves as a time capsule-like reminder of Ukraine’s past. One wonders how much

longer it will take for nature to fully reclaim Pripyat. In a couple more decades, there may well be little left worth seeing.

Chernobyl’s three remaining RBMK reactors continued to produce energy until 2000, when the plant was decommissioned

under international pressure. Today it still employs thousands, who have built and are maintaining the massive ►


EUR 810 million sarcophagus-like ‘New Safe Confinement’ (NSC). At 105 metres high and spanning 257 metres, the

NSC is taller than the Statue of Liberty and larger than Wembley stadium. In November 2016, the behemoth 35,000

tonne structure was slid over the reactor no. 4 building, finally securing its safety for at least another hundred years.

It is estimated that the reactors will be dismantled by 2064.

Our school dinner-style lunch in the plant canteen is a surreal experience. Served to us on trays by Ukrainian

babushkas, we sit and eat barely 100m away from the failed reactor, on the other side of huge windows.

The ghost city of Chernobyl is our next stop. Founded in 1193, Chernobyl was home to 14,000 people before the

accident. Today, although there are some designated areas with essential services, power plant workers’ residences

and even a hotel for visitors, large parts of the city are still no-go zones.

A fascinating pit stop is the fire station where many of the first responders were based, most of whom became


irradiated and lost their lives. A modest monument “to those who saved the world”, paid for by public donations,

serves as a stark reminder that were it not for their critical intervention, the consequences could have left much

of Eastern Europe a nuclear wasteland.

Our last stop is perhaps the most intriguing of all. An immense soaring wall of metalwork, spanning hundreds of

metres, the huge top secret Soviet Duga-1 radar array installation near Chernobyl was one of two such facilities

within the former USSR (pictured). The structure still dwarfs the surrounding landscape. Some have speculated that

the Chernobyl accident was a plot to cover up the existence of this very installation.

As we pass through the radiation detectors at the 30km checkpoint, on our way out of the exclusion zone, we

wonder, for just a moment, whether we will be given the all clear. For, whilst the dark tourism industry is growing

in Chernobyl, its waters are decidedly murkier and we don’t really know whether the entire truth has been told,

or whether it ever will be.

Home to a variety of towns, fishing villages and

shellfish marinas, Cape Cod extends 65 miles into the

Atlantic Ocean from the southeastern corner of the

American state of Massachusetts and boasts more

than 400 miles of coastline. At its very end lies Provincetown.

Approaching Ptown (as it is affectionately known) on the

90-minute ferry crossing from Boston, the town in many ways

looks like a quintessential New England coastal community.

Period grey, brown and red shingle homes line the beachhead.

Small sailing and fishing boats bob and up and down in the

harbour. Piers and wharves of varying lengths jut out into the

bay. And there is a distinct sense of calm and remoteness to

the place, akin to being at the end of the earth.

Essentially a speck of civilization surrounded by water,

pine forests and sand dunes, a lone lighthouse at the end

of a promontory, framed on both sides by water, is the first

distinctive landmark one sees upon alighting the ferry. It was

right here, at Long Point, that the Mayflower delivered the

Pilgrims to America almost four hundred years ago.

Whilst New England is peppered with quaint towns and

historic monuments, few places can claim such bona fide

credentials as Provincetown, much of which dates back to

the 19 th century and early 1900s, when it grew wealthy on

the back of fishing and whaling.

Postage stamp-sized shingled cottages fronted by white

picket fences and immaculately landscaped gardens are twoa-penny.

Imposing churches and grand civic buildings are

dotted about. Around every corner are stunning water views.

Aesthetically, this combination of harbour vistas and classic

Cape Cod architecture is somewhat otherworldly.

IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / DENNIS KARTENKAEMPER

From dawn through to dusk, on cloudy and sunny days and

across all four seasons, the light in Provincetown is magical.

Combined with a unique sense of freedom that comes from

being at lands’ end, led to Provincetown becoming the

country’s first summer artists’ colony at the turn of the last

century, an inherent part of the community which is still

important today.

Tennessee Williams wrote The Glass Menagerie in a rustic

cottage in Ptown, overlooking the water. The same reasons

that artists and writers originally flocked to Provincetown are

why it remains such a popular summer destination to this

day. The seamless coexistence of small-town friendliness

and an eclectic cultural scene is second to none.

Summers in Cape Cod are about long days spent on the beach

and relaxing. Provincetown is no different. The beaches in ►

PROVINCETOWN

Alex Benasuli catches the ferry from Boston

to explore Cape Cod’s cultured and colourful

seaside town seemingly at the end of the earth

Ptown may be smaller but they are plentiful, and it’s easy to

access the waterfront. Find a quiet spot, roll out your beach

towel and watch the world go by as the tides ebb and flow.

The public has access to every dockside in Provincetown,

making them excellent sunbathing and swimming platforms.

IMAGE FAR LEFT © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / MARK MARTINS

A little outside the town centre, the beaches and scenery

becomes wilder, especially in Cape National Seashore Park

which begins at the tip of Ptown’s West End. An area of

outstanding natural beauty, the park is made up of wetlands,

pine forests, sandy hills and mile upon mile of bays and ocean

beaches. It’s a must for nature lovers.

Herring Cove is particularly popular with locals for its warmer

waters and easy parking. Race Point offers wider and longer

beaches. Those seeking more privacy frequent the beaches

that surround Long Point, which are a walk of several miles

from town. Be careful to time your walk to avoid high tide in

order to be able to traverse the causeway that connects it to

the mainland. Alternatively, take the Long Point Shuttle and

get there in a fraction of the time (www.flyersboats.com). The

payoff is seal encounters, abundant bird life and a real sense

of leaving it all behind. There is something very special about

being in the middle of the ocean, at the very tip of Cape Cod,

at the exact spot where the Pilgrims first landed.

Traversing the cycle paths that connect Ptown to its beaches

and crisscross Cape National Seashore Park is pure bliss.

Taking in the sand dunes, ocean views and the more-shady

parts of woody Beech Forest - while coasting up and down

undulating hills and around gentle curves - is not to be missed.

A full circuit from town out to Race Point and returning via

Herring Cove takes less than an hour, including a few water

and vista breaks. Be sure to ask for a map of the trails when

renting from Ptown Bikes (www.ptwonbikes.com).

In some summer resorts there is little to do apart from relaxing

by the pool or hitting the beach. This is not the case in Ptown.

For a relatively small place, the cultural, shopping and dining

possibilities bordering the town’s three-mile main drag,

Commercial Street, are superb. At its heart is MacMillan pier,

from which the ferries arrive and depart as well as fishing and

whale-watching charters. As you leave the center, towards

Ptown’s east and west districts, the crowds quickly thin out

and everything quietens down.

Whilst weekends, national holidays and mid-August’s

carnival are busier, one of the real joys of visiting in Ptown is

its small scale and innate village feel. And there’s no need for

a car, since end to end is roughly an hour on foot or twenty

minutes on a bicycle. ►


Provincetown’s East End is the traditional hub of its artist

colony and where dozens of galleries are located. Rice

Polak specialises in mixed medium contemporary art

(www.ricepolakgallery.com) and Egeli Gallery focusses on Cape

Cod-inspired impressionist paintings (www.egeligllery.com).

The East End is also home to Provincetown Art Association

and Museum (PAAM). Established in 1914 it is one the best

small modern art museums in the country, a fixture in the

town’s cultural life and and features exhibitions year-round

(www.paam.org).

In Ptown, daytime flows seamlessly into night and spending

time at the beach leads into sunset drinks at one of many

waterfront bars and lounges. Dining options are equally

plentiful, with pretty much everywhere in Cape Cod excelling

at seafood. Eastern oysters from nearby Wellfleet, world

famous New England lobster and Cape Cod clam chowder, as

well as a large variety of fresh locally-caught fish, can all be

found across the town.

Baie offers a refined gastronomic experience in an intimate

setting complete with bay views (www.baiebar.com), while The

Lobster Pot has been around for generations and serves classic

New England cuisine and Portuguese seafood specials in an

unpretentious waterfront setting (www.ptownlobsterpot.com).

For simple but scrumptious fare from morning ‘til night, order

at Canteen’s counter and wait for your food to be delivered to

your table on a sandy plot facing the harbour, festooned with

surf boards and fishing nets (www.thecanteenptwon.com).

After dinner, piano bars and cabaret clubs beckon, although a

1am closing time for all venues ensures that (despite Ptown’s

colourful nightlife) nothing gets too out of hand.

You won’t find a hotel chain in Ptown and lodging options are

generally small and charming. Overlooking the harbour and

Cape Cod Bay, each of Red Inn’s eight rooms offers spectacular

views (www.theredinn.com). On the other side of town, awardwinning

White Porch Inn’s nine rooms combine modern luxury

with seductive views towards the bay (www.whiteporchinn.com).

Eben House (www.ebenhouse.com) and Salt House Inn

(www.salthouseinn.com) are two newer boutique properties,

that offer more contemporary interpretations of the traditional

bed and breakfast concept.

IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / TANYABIRD

Provincetown’s breathtaking natural setting, surrounded by

water on three sides, a national park and beaches, combined

with the charming qualities of a historic New England coastal

village and a thriving cultural scene, make it an utterly unique

and colourful seaside hamlet. A carefree enclave where everyone

is welcome and encouraged to be themselves, there is truly is

no place in the world like Ptown. www.provincetown.com


ALTER

MIAMI

MILOS, HUDSON YARDS

NEW YORK

THE HELSINKI DISTILLING COMPANY

HELSINKI


REVIEW

ALTER

MIAMI

Food

Atmosphere

Alex Benasuli joins Wynwood’s hipsters

for some serious eating at a restaurant

which is redefining modern fine dining

While Miami Beach has been a popular

holiday destination since the 1920s,

metropolitan Miami - America’s seventh

largest city - is now having its time in the

sun. Having always been international in its outlook not

least due to its longstanding ties to Latin America, Miami

is now bristling with arts, culture, shopping and dining

scenes that are not only cementing its place as a global

hot spot but also as one of the most desirable places to

live and work in the United States.

From shimmering high-rise Brickell south of Downtown,

up north to the Design District’s new luxury flagship

stores, entire neighbourhoods are being created in Miami,

each with their own distinct personalities and characters.

Ten years ago, Wynwood was an unloved stretch of

concrete parking lots and half-abandoned buildings.

Today it is Miami’s creative hipster hub and one of the

city’s hottest areas, akin to Brooklyn’s Williamsburg or

London’s Shoreditch, and has been made Instagram

famous by Wynwood Walls, a collection of outdoor

spaces decorated by some of the world’s leading graffiti

artists.

Though some trendy brands and tourists have arrived

in Wynwood, at its heart the area continues to evolve

as Miami’s creative and artistic heart. And a world

away from Miami Beach yet a mere 20 minutes across

Biscayne Bay, Wynwood is an inherent part of the new

Miami, a thriving city marching to its own tropical beat

abounding with nightlife options for creatives looking

for funkier options beyond those which the city is

commonly known for.

Never really renowned globally for its standout world

class cuisine, part of Miami’s ascendance has been

its recent emergence as a foodie destination. Critically

acclaimed restaurant openings - in varying formats

and showcasing a multitude of cuisines - have helped

to propel the city to the top of the country’s culinary

leagues. Never before has Miami boasted more exciting

and diverse places to dine and Wynwood has been at

the forefront of this trend.

While by day Wynwood can be steamy and sultry,

at night the area bursts with activity. Art galleries

throw open their doors; music from passing cars,

bars and restaurants spills onto the streets; sidewalks

hum with hip Miamians and visitors commingling

with gritty urbanites to create a fun, relaxed and truly

distinctive vibe. ►


When Alter opened in 2015, it significantly

elevated Wynwood’s already impressive selection

of dining establishments by skillfully combining

gastronomically innovative and seasonal tasting

menus with casual and hip surroundings.

Tasting menu-format establishments can tend

towards being overly formal and a tad stuffy. Not

at Alter, where a youthful post-industrial former

warehouse design aesthetic creates a fun and

intimate setting in which to engage in a new

American culinary adventure. Concrete floors, white

cinder block walls and exposed ceilings are offset by

moody lighting and a vibrant, open kitchen.

Servers clad in denim jeans, blue shirts and

denim aprons positively exude Miami cool-ascucumber

confidence and style. Meanwhile, the

relative snugness of the venue, which can seat no

more than fifty diners, lends an air of nonchalant

exclusivity to Alter.

With the overall ambience so easy and sexy, there

really is no need to rush an Alter experience. Best

to start with one of the many delectable cocktails

on offer, such as Mango Clove which combines

Hendrick’s gin, raspberry liquor, mango syrup and

lemon juice.

Executive chef Bradley Kilgore is very much the

brainchild behind Alter. Formerly exec chef at

Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s J&G Grill in Bal Harbour

and having worked at some of Chicago’s finest

eateries, in 2016 Kilgore won Food & Wine’s Best

New Chef award at Alter. Numerous other accolades

have been bestowed upon Kilgore since then.

Kilgore has clearly realised his dream at Alter, at

the same time hitting upon a winning formula by

serving sophisticated fine dining fare in a casual and

ambient environment.

Freshly sourced ingredients from local farms and

fishermen are at the heart of the regularly changing

menus. Kilgore excels at ingeniously reinventing

classic dishes with unusual add-ons and funky

preparations. Tasting menus are offered as five

or seven courses with accompanying wine flights

reasonably priced.

Sumac and dill seed-encrusted bread, served with

umami butter, sets the tone for a culinary journey

that hits multiple taste and texture highs. ►


A cooling palette cleanser of asparagus chowder

served with parmesan foam and watercress

and green peanut garnish followed.

Visually, courses are literally as stunning as they

taste and servers passionately explain each dish

as they are delivered, clearly loving their work and

taking pride in everything carefully transported

from the kitchen.

A bay scallop crudo with green tomato aguachile,

black lime, maracuyá and radish deftly brought

together Middle Eastern and tropical flavours.

The next course of Arctic char appeared floating

within a chorizo-coconut emulsion and was

served with carrot veil and wild ramp - the holy

grail of wild edibles from the leek family which

grow during the spring months in the foothills

of the Appalachian Mountains.

Other ourses came and went that similarly cleverly

combined the local and well-known with the wild

and exotic. Even if it’s not on your tasting menu,

be sure to ask for the divine soft egg dish with sea

scallop espuma, truffle pearls, chives and Siberian

caviar. It is a classic Kilgore concoction and one

of Alter’s signature dishes.

ALTER

Food:

Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Brad Kilgore

Address:

223 NW 23 rd Street, Miami, FL 33127, U.S.A.

Telephone: +1 305 573 5996

Email:

luis@altermiami.com

Website:

www.altermiami.com

Cuisine:

Refined New American

Lunch:

Closed

Dinner:

19:00 - 23:00 Tuesday - Sunday (closed Mondays)

Dinner price: Five or seven-course tasting menus

at USD 79 and USD 99

Ideal meal: Nine-course “chef’s counter” experience

USD 165 + wine pairings USD 100

Reservations: Essential

Wheelchair access: Yes

Children:

No high chairs. No kids’ menu

Credit cards: All major

Parking:

On the street

Reviewed by Alex Benasuli for dinner on 25 th April 2019

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about

the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

Alter’s wine pairings are some of the best curated

and forward-thinking you may ever have sampled.

New and old-world wines hailing from around

the globe are showcased side-by-side. And

while some vintages from better known makers

are served, most come from relatively small and

unheard-of vineyards. Oenophiles will undoubtedly

delight at some of the hidden gems they will sip

at Alter.

My nest-like dessert of 72% Araguani chocolate

(made from rare Venezuelan cocoa beans) and

combined with variations of pear, young spruce

and chestnut would have alone been worthy of

a visit to Alter.

Usually, such a high level of culinary expertise

is paraded in a much more formal or pretentious

setting. But not at Alter, where the hip and cool

engage in some serious eating in easy, breezy

and edgy Wynwood. Alter is not only helping to put

Miami on the American culinary map as a foodie

destination but is also redefining for the modern

age what fine dining should really be all about.


With a decades-long reputation for

the highest quality seafood, prepared

simply and served in elegant spaces

with excellent service, Alex Benasuli

dines on top notch Greek fare at

Costas Spiliadis’ newest MILOS

restaurant, located slap bang in the

centre of one of the planet’s most

highly anticipated urban regeneration

schemes: Hudson Yards in Manhattan

After more than a decade in the making,

New York City’s newest neighbourhood and

one of the planet’s most anticipated urban

regeneration schemes is finally open. Hudson

Yards - which spans Manhattan’s far west side between

30 th and 34 th Streets from 10 th Avenue to the Hudson

River - has transformed a derelict former industrial

area into a 14-acre bastion of luxury high-rise apartment

buildings, high-end shopping, public plazas and cultural

spaces. What was once a wasteland is now buzzing

with cafés, restaurants, art galleries and pedestrianfriendly

boulevards.

Open since late spring 2019, Hudson Yards is teeming

with visitors who are flocking to experience for


NEWCOMER

MILOS

HUDSON YARDS

NEW YORK

themselves this future forward exercise in architecture

and design-oriented urban planning geared towards

residents, tourists and the countless businesses in and

around the area.

The best way (weather permitting) to approach Hudson

Yards, is from the south on the High Line, the elevated

former railway track that has been converted into a

pedestrian walkway and urban prairie-style park. The

mile-long route from the Meatpacking District to Hudson

Yards is a promenade of urban cool. Views towards the

Hudson River and Empire State Building are framed by

buildings designed by some of the world’s most famous

architects. The Hudson Yards skyline is equally impressive.

Already, the 16-storey copper-coloured honeycombshaped

Vessel structure, which encompasses more than

80 viewing platforms, is being referred to by some as

New York’s equivalent to the Eiffel Tower and has become

the city’s newest Instagram hot spot. So, when beloved

gastronomic temple to refined Greek and Mediterranean

dining Estiatorio Milos was looking to add a new location,

Hudson Yards was an obvious choice.

When the original Milos opened in Montreal in 1979,

founder Costas Spiliadis took Hellenic cuisine to the next

level and established a reputation for serving only the

highest quality seafood, prepared simply and served in

elegant spaces with excellent service. Back then, Spiliadis

would drive eight hours each way, twice a week, from

Montreal to Fulton Street Fish Market in NYC to ensure ►


that only the best and freshest fish was served in his

restaurant. A New York outpost opened in 1997, followed

by Athens in 2004, Las Vegas in 2010, Miami in 2012

and London in 2015.

Milos’ carefully curated relationships with Greek islandbased

fishermen, Greek wineries, cheese makers and

produce growers forged a farm-to-table ethos long before

farm-to-table became commonplace in the culinary

world.

All Milos establishments have a particular look and feel

about them, akin in many ways to contemporary Greek

temples to food. Earth tones dominate with a generous

deployment of stone, marble and timber throughout.

Aegean blue tiled open kitchens create splashes of colour

and drama within sanctuary-like dining settings.

When one enters a Milos restaurant it is clear that no

expense has been spared. Courtesy of a bevy of maître

d’s, hostesses, waiters, sommeliers and support staff,

service at every level is also close to flawless. Being

“well taken care of” takes on new meaning at a Milos

restaurant and the brand has become synonymous with

superb food, well-considered design and impeccable

service. Hence, it makes total sense that Milos should

take its place on the top floors of the six storey luxury

retail and dining emporium within Hudson Yards, with

Dior, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Tiffany and other similarly

illustrious brands as its neighbours. ►


Milos’ Hudson Yards outpost does not disappoint in

the design stakes. From its lofty perch, floor-to-ceiling

windows in a semi-circular curve along the whole

restaurant front reveal a spectacular vista of the Hudson

River and Vessel almost dead centre. The view faces due

west and the sunsets are epic.

As is the Milos way, the space, while remaining open,

is subtly divided into sections. Raised and submerged

platforms and steps create different levels and

experiences. The tables around the front of the

restaurant boast the best views and are flooded with

natural light. They are also somewhat calmer and

more date friendly. The central area is a cacophony

of larger family-friendly tables ringed by smaller tables

in cleverly arranged ribbons of seating.

To date, bookings have far surpassed expectations.

Much like Hudson Yards in general there is a strong

buzz about the newest Milos. And while there is always

a sense of theatre at Milos restaurants, this one feels

even higher octane and more dramatic. However, the

highlight of the Milos experience is always the food

and Milos aficionados should rest assured that all the

classics are expertly turned out here.

The challenge at Milos is not to over-order as everything

sounds, looks and tastes so good. The ever-popular

signature tower of lightly fried zucchini and eggplant

is as scrumptious as ever. The hummus, taramasalata


and htipiti dips, served with toasted pita, are some of the

best you will ever taste. However, the highlight of every

Milos ordering process is a visit to the fresh fish counter,

where handwritten signs advertise the catches of the day

which are displayed market-style on ice. You can never

go wrong with fagri (red porgy), sargos (sea bream) or

levraki (sea bass), simply grilled with a dusting of olive

oil and a pinch of sea salt, served with steamed wild

seasonal greens and a Greek salad. Finish the meal

with cinnamon-infused baklava or fried, honey- coated

loukoumádes of Greek decadence.

In addition to the main restaurant, Milos has inaugurated

a new concept in its Hudson Yards location in the form of

a separate wine bar which occupies its own floor within

the complex. Here, Greek wines are served by the glass

alongside small tapas-style plates. Greek olive oils, honey

and sea salts are also on sale. As perfect for an informal

dining experience as it is for a shopping pit stop, the

service and food quality at Milos Wine Bar is the same

as the restaurant.

In its new Hudson Yards location, Milos has undoubtedly

grown its status as a global culinary force. With new

restaurants planned in Dubai and Cabo San Lucas, Milos

is proving that quantity can be matched with quality and

consistency when carefully and considerately executed.

Great brands engender fierce loyalty while attracting new

converts all the time. Milos achieves both with panache

and ease. www.estiatoriomilos.com


There’s absolutely no doubt that ‘mother’s ruin’ is the spirit of the

moment and we’re still in the middle of a full-on gin renaissance. Sales

of the juniper-flavoured spirit show no sign of waning, with distillers

falling over themselves to release fresh craft expressions to keep up

with the growing worldwide demand for new gins. But where did it all begin?

Many historians label the rise of gin as England’s first real drug craze. First

concocted as a medicinal tonic in the early 1600s, in the 18th century, gin was

considered such a blight on society that various acts were introduced in an

attempt to restrict its consumption. The introduction of the 1736 Gin Act which

imposed a high tax on gin retailers, was hugely unpopular with the working

classes and caused widespread riots in London. As a result, the tax was

significantly lowered within a few years.

Fifteen years later, the Gin Act of 1751 prohibited gin distillers from selling to

unlicensed merchants; restricted the issuing of retail licenses and charged high

fees to those who were eligible to retail the spirit. And in an attempt to replace

gin in the cups of the masses, the importation of tea was encouraged as an

alternative.

Of course, the somewhat crude and cheap gin of 18th century England was

very different to what we drink these days. Whereas today’s gin is generally

40% ABV (alcohol by volume), it’s likely that the homemade distilled

concoctions of the 1700s were much stronger, possibly as high as 50%. Cheap,

widely available and legal, highly-intoxicating gin proved to be an addictive,

irresistible and lethal combination, not forgetting that for many, this was a time

when alcohol was safer to drink than mains water. And because gin wasn’t

taxed initially, it was even cheaper than beer.

Some say that gin was the 18th century crack cocaine of England’s poor, since

its powerful depressant qualities (its USP if you like!) were a cheap means for

the working classes to forget their worries. Ingrained in the very foundations of

society at the time, a noticeable increase in female gin addicts in the 1700s led

to its various feminine nicknames, including ‘mother’s ruin’.

It’s even widely believed that the humble gin and tonic was the reason the

British were able to rule India for as long as they did. Essentially a method of

medical advancement, the first gin and tonic was first developed in the 19th

century as a way to make the anti-malaria drug quinine more palatable for

British officers in India at risk of catching the deadly disease.

But the original quinine-based mixture was extremely bitter to drink and

so lime, sugar and gin were added to make it more appetising. Then the

descendants of a German jeweller based in Geneva, Johann Jakob Schweppe,

used their newly-patented bubbling device on a mixture of oranges, water and

quinine. They called their product Schweppes Indian Tonic and the rest (as they

say) is gin history.

Today a traditional G&T remains the most popular way to consume gin, but

the spirit’s use is also surging in cocktails and as a neat drink served over ice,

especially when enjoying a high-quality or craft gin. ►


EXPERIENCE

THE

HELSINKI

DISTILLING

COMPANY

Nicholas Chrisostomou visits the

first private distillery to open in the

Finnish capital for over a century

Whilst large multinational drink manufacturers are meeting much of gin’s

increased demand by upping their mass-produced output, a growing

number of small distillers have sprung up to offer consumers quirky,

high-end, small batch and exclusive higher ABV alternatives to the big

brands, a trend which follows that of craft breweries and whisky distillers

in recent decades.

Founded in 2013, The Helsinki Distilling Company (HDCO) was the

first private distillery to open in Helsinki for over a century. It produces

premium gin, whisky and other spirits using the best local ingredients,

many of which are unique to Finland, making HDCO’s spirits rather

special.

The distillery is located in Teurastamo: a former abattoir and now the food

culture heart of Helsinki. HDCO’s two-storey building has a fascinating

history of its own, having been used as a power plant for thirty years, then

a soap factory, meatball factory, car wash, wine cellar and lastly as an

architect’s office.

HDCO’s spirits are produced by master distiller Mikko Mykkänen together

with Kai Kilpinen and Séamus Holohan. A big believer in learning more

about what I consume, I visited HDCO in the Finnish capital to meet with

brand ambassador Marietta Kuivanen and stillman Mike Byars to find out

more and sample their wares.

Gin is produced by using juniper berries and other botanicals to flavour an

already-distilled neutral alcohol. In the case of cold compound gins, after

any botanical solids have been removed, the liquid is diluted and bottled.

Many budget (or supermarket) gins are made this way.

The costlier but far more flavoursome way to make gin, is to redistill

the alcohol after the botanicals have been added. This is how HDCO

produces its superior gins, after a long maceration process, using Finnish

ingredients.

Blended with the purest Finnish water, 47% Helsinki Dry Gin is made using

nine hand-picked botanicals including the Arctic lingonberry, creating a

well-rounded and smooth spirit which has its own subtle yet sophisticated

personality. It tastes just as good on the rocks without a mixer as it does

as part of a G&T garnished with lingonberries and a slice of pink grapefruit.

After being walked through the distilling process by Mike and having a

tasting session with Marietta, it was not difficult to distinguish the delicate

characteristics of HDCO’s different gins, especially aromas of the Nordic

forest and the floral, citrusy notes.

An hour at HDCO turned into three and I left the distillery better educated

and a tad merry. It’s said that life is a journey of continuous learning.

What better way to add to one’s knowledge than by learning how

premium gin is produced and how to assemble the perfect Finnish G&T.

www.hdco.fi


music &

NIGHT

LIFE

DAVID GUETTA

A titan of a scene that has brought EDM from the

fringes into the mainstream over the past decade,

the superstar French DJ talks to The Cultured Traveller

about his life and career, collaborating with Sia and

his favourite places in Paris

WHEN DID YOUNG DAVID FIRST FALL UNDER THE SPELL OF

DANCE MUSIC?

I discovered dance, actually house music to be more specific, during my time working at a

nightclub. Right away I was intrigued by how it made me feel and the effect it had on the

crowd. When I started to delve in, I fell in love.

WHICH ARTIST HAS HAD THE MOST INFLUENCE ON YOU MUSICALLY?

It’s hard to pick just one. I grew at a time of incredible artists who changed the music

industry forever: Michael Jackson, Prince, David Bowie and Marvin Gaye, to name but a few,

all really knew how to translate a story into a track. And Stevie Wonder’s still going strong!

These are just some of the musicians who inspired me to do what I do today. Many people

also influenced my dance music, of course.

WHAT WAS THE FIRST CLUB YOU EVER PLAYED AT?

I was seventeen when I started DJing and my very first experience behind the decks was at

the Broad Club in Paris, which is still going today.

YOU WERE VERY INVOLVED IN THE PARIS NIGHTCLUB SCENE AT THE

START OF YOUR CAREER?

Paris is where it all started for me - I played at many clubs in the French capital. I also

owned Le Palace club for a while and organised parties there, which is where my passion

for music really developed.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PARISIAN NIGHTCLUB TODAY?

Les Bains-Douches, which was the most famous nightclub in Paris in the ‘80s and

‘90s. I played there a long time ago and saw everybody from David Bowie to The Rolling

Stones party there. The city shut it down in 2011 but it re-opened as a cool hotel

with a club in the basement. Playing there today brings back many good memories.

(www.lesbains-paris.com)

WHAT DEFINING MOMENT OF YOUR CAREER PROPELLED YOU TO

WORLDWIDE FAME?

For sure my collaboration with the Black Eyed Peas on I Gotta Feeling. That track was such

a huge success, that it enabled me to crossover to the States as well as reach many other

audiences globally.

I GOTTA FEELING ESSENTIALLY KICK-STARTED THE EDM REVOLUTION A

DECADE AGO. WERE YOU READY FOR WHAT FOLLOWED?

All I wanted to do was to share my music with the world and truly live my dream. Doing

what I’m most passionate about for a living was absolutely what I was ready for. Of course,

it was crazy and overwhelming when it happened. But I loved and still love every second of

it. I have the best job in the world. ►

YOU LIKE TO MAKE HUGE SONGS WITH BIG HOOKS THAT PEOPLE

LOVE TO SING ALONG TO. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE TO DATE?

I’ve made so many tracks with so many amazing artists that it’s really difficult to

pick just one. But if I had to choose one, Titanium would be in my top. When Sia and

I made Titanium, she was working as a songwriter and I was working as a producer.

We were supposed to make the record for another artist. When we finished the record,

we were listening to it and I said, “There is no way I’m giving this away, this is going

to be on my album and I don’t wanna give it to anyone else”. I already knew that no

one could have sung it the way she did, so I asked her to stay on the record. But she

said that she didn’t want to be an artist anymore, she just wanted to be a songwriter.

So I promised her that I wouldn’t ask her to do any promo for the track or tour with

me. I just wanted her voice! She eventually agreed, saying that it would be her

last record. Then, right after Titanium was released, Sia became one of the world’s

biggest artists. It’s a pretty crazy story but all true!

HOW DOES IT FEEL TO HAVE A TRACK AS SUCCESSFUL AS GRAMMY

AWARD-WINNING WHEN LOVE TAKES OVER?

I’m still very grateful and it meant a lot me. Receiving awards such as these puts a

crown on top of your hard work.

WHAT PROMPTED YOU TO PUT OUT YOUR TRACK THE DEATH OF

EDM AND HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT EDM TODAY?

When I made that record four years ago I was effectively predicting what actually

happened. There was a moment when every record seemed to be 120bpm, in F minor

and all EDM was sounding exactly the same. EDM became more formulaic than pop

and people got tired of it. The Death of EDM was about the need for a new sound.

People will always want to dance, so we need to make music in different ways, at

different tempos and using different sounds to move music forwards.

AS A PIONEERING DANCE MUSIC DJ AND PRODUCER, DO YOU FEEL

THAT YOU HAVE A RESPONSIBILITY TO MOVE MUSIC FORWARDS?

Music and the way we can produce changes all the time and I think that it’s

important for artists to keep up with what’s happening around us. So, yes, I think

our role as DJs and producers is to make music go forward, and to think forward. I

started to make dance music because it was a type of music where there would be

more freedom than within the pop structures commonly heard on the radio. Today,

there is so much happening on the ground in progressive house and in tech house.

The past few years especially have been very interesting musically, especially with

the explosion of so many different subgenres. I love working with artists from other

genres and also learning from young and new artists. They can have a fresh look on

things which can inspire me.

YOU HAVE COLLABORATED WITH NUMEROUS ARTISTS.

IS THERE ANYONE YOU WOULD STILL LIKE TO WORK WITH?

There are many artists I admire and would love to make music with. But Adele is

really high on my wish list. It would be amazing to make a track with Adele.

WHO IS JACK BACK?

My alias! I’m Jack Back. It represents a different side of me, where I can express my

more underground side and share the type of music where I came from. It’s all about

the love for music, with no commercial aspect to it. ►


PHOTO BY ELLEN VON UNWERTH, COURTESY OF DAVID GUETTA

TELL US ABOUT YOUR DOUBLE ALBUM ‘7’, RELEASED TOWARDS THE END

OF LAST YEAR, WHICH FEATURES EVERYONE FROM POP STARS JUSTIN

BIEBER AND NICKI MINAJ TO DJs STEVE AOKI AND MARTIN GARRIX.

The first disc is completely pop, with all the big hits and big names. The second disc is all

about my alias Jack Back and is completely underground. Instead of trying to do a little bit

of everything on the same record, I decided to make two to show the different sides to my

music and also represent my musical journey. Releasing ‘7’ was very much a full circle

moment for me.

WHAT WAS IT LIKE TO COLLABORATE AGAIN WITH NICKI MINAJ AND SIA?

Nicki Minaj and Sia are like old-time partners and I really appreciate that they are so loyal

to me. We made records together that were really life-changing. They became such huge

stars, so I really appreciate that they’re always here from me.

IS IBIZA STILL AS MAGICAL FOR YOU TODAY AS IT WAS WHEN YOU

PLAYED YOUR FIRST DJ SET THERE?

Definitely. The energy on the isle is so radiant. My first set on Ibiza was obviously very

special, but it’s still magical to play on the island today. For sure. Especially having my

own residencies, that keep evolving. I don’t think I will ever leave Ibiza.

WHERE IS YOUR FAVOURITE VENUE TO PERFORM IN THE WORLD?

This is a difficult question because so many venues have impressed me so much. But

Ushuaïa and Hï on Ibiza are definitely two of my favourites. I always have so much fun

when I play there during the summer. My residencies BIG and F*** Me I’m Famous take

place in these magical clubs.

YOU ROUTINELY CRISS-CROSS THE WORLD’S SKIES, PLAYING ON

MULTIPLE CONTINENTS. WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST WHEN YOU’RE

AWAY FROM PARIS?

Time with my friends and family mostly, of course. When I am feeling naughty there is

nothing better than French pastries and there is nothing naughtier than pastries from

Paris. The best probably come from Odette in the Latin Quarter (www.odette-paris.com).

I love having brunch at Les Bains. And strolling around the Latin Quarter which

retains so much authenticity and history and is brimming with independent

cafés and shops - it’s a wonderful place.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO BUDDING DJs

AND UP-AND-COMING PRODUCERS?

Keep going! Work on your own sound and try to figure out how to stand out from the

crowd. Only those that never give up and carry-on working ever make it.

TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE LONGEVITY OF YOUR CAREER?

I think it’s difficult to really put a finger on it. Because I love making music and it really is

my passion has a lot to do with it. My passion for music makes it possible for me to work

ten times harder than others. And I like to think that I share my passion with other people.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR DAVID GUETTA?

I don’t have huge ambitions because I don’t need to make more money, I have

enough. I just want to make more of the music I love and share it with the world.

www.davidguetta.com


GLOBETROTTER

BRUCE PASK

ADRIAN GIBSON CHATS TO THE MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR FOR

BERGDORF GOODMAN ABOUT WORKING WITH ANNIE LEIBOVITZ,

STYLING THE CAST OF FRIENDS TO LOOK LIKE A ‘3Os CIRCUS TROUPE

AND HIS FAVOURITE EUROPEAN FASHION WEEK DESTINATIONS

What awoke the creative spirit in young Bruce?

My mother was an elementary school teacher

as well as the owner of a children’s shoe store in

our hometown of Yuma in Arizona, so she always

emphasised education and was very supportive

of our artistic explorations. I attended some shoe

shows with her and always felt that my opinion

was valued and seen as important and relevant.

This, in itself, was huge and very empowering.

My twin brother and I were, after all, her target

market, so it was great that my mother really

valued our input and appreciated what we liked.

While growing up, what inspired you to forge

a career in fashion?

To be honest, I didn’t even know a career in fashion

was a possibility! This was way before magazine and

fashion careers were regularly seen on TV together

with any awareness of these worlds having job

opportunities. So, looking at magazines (Interview,

GQ) was my main connection to what was happening

in the outside world, far from the Arizona desert.

What did you enjoy about working on shop floors

during your college years?

I loved being of service to, engaging with and

helping customers of the Gap and ESPRIT where

I had jobs during my college summers. It was

also fascinating to learn about clothes and spend

time with the people I worked with who seemed

so worldly. I was quite fastidious and was always

given the responsibility of folding the denim

wall at the end of the day. I was pretty proud of

how I left the store looking in the evening!

And your college studies?

I wanted an aesthetically beautiful environment as

well as a rigorous scholastic experience, so I went

from the deserts of Arizona to the ivy-covered

colonial bricked College of William and Mary in

Virginia. I went planning to study accounting. But,

after my first class, I realised that finance was not

my path and was grateful to have found the fine arts

school. In a quest for balance, I majored in art history,

which was creatively inspiring, while also studying

economics which appealed to my practical nature.

What did your first NYC job at Paul Smith

teach you?

I found the job in the back of the Village Voice

newspaper. It was exciting working with a

fascinating crew of people at a cool store which

was frequented by fun clients and customers during

the hey-day of Paul Smith. I loved all the prints

and patterns and learned a lot about fabrics, cuts,

silhouettes and fashion in general. Interacting with

magazine editors from time-to-time also opened

my eyes to opportunities in the fashion world.

Tell us about your time at GQ magazine

which culminated in you becoming associate

fashion editor?

I got very lucky. My supervisor at Paul Smith very

generously told me about an opening at GQ for a

fashion assistant and encouraged me to interview.

I started out by booking clothing in and out for

shoots. Eventually I worked my way up to shooting

assistant and worked on set with the associate

fashion, celebrities and models, preparing the clothes,

learning about art direction and the role of a fashion

editor. It was all so fascinating that I just learned and

absorbed as much as I could. I eventually started doing

my own shoots for the magazine, travelled to Europe

each season for the fashion shows and was promoted

to market editor. I was associate fashion editor for

almost a decade. It was all incredibly rewarding. ►


Your stylist and costume work included prominent

campaigns as well as covers and features in

many magazines. What did you enjoy most

about this work?

Styling is a very different way of looking at clothing,

with naturalism, character and how a person can

really live in and inhabit clothing all being factors.

I loved the research involved in the costume work

and how my fashion background really influenced

how I interpreted clothing and character.

Your favourite campaign?

Undoubtedly my campaign for The Sopranos TV

show, photographed by Annie Leibovitz. It was

amazing to really be able to dive into researching

the costuming, spend weeks shopping for the

characters and work with the costume design team

to come up with a concept for an image of all the

actors around a restaurant table, complete with

lots of hidden meaning.

Which celebrity feature was the most fun to

work on?

This is a toss-up between the Vanity Fair cover

for the 2003 Hollywood Issue which featured the

leading male actors of the time (including Tom

Cruise, Harrison Ford, Jack Nicholson and Brad

Pitt etc.), and a photograph I styled of the cast of

Friends dressed as a 1930s circus troupe. Both were

photographed by Annie Leibovitz. For the Friends

image, I scrambled to pull together clothing and

costume pieces, since we had changed the concept

and spent the day fitting the actors while they were

filming. We dressed each of them individually. Then

Annie and I waited for them. They arrived together,

truly looking like the troupe I had imagined, and it

was quite a special, rewarding and overwhelming

moment. I was incredibly proud of that shot.

After such an illustrious career in print, what

prompted you to move into fashion retail?

I had always enjoyed every aspect of fashion retail.

While working in editorial I also styled a variety of

projects, including the Bergdorf Goodman men’s

magazine for quite a few years. Consequently, I

spent a fair amount of time interacting with the

buyers and merchant team as well as being in the

store which I grew to know very well. I loved the

people and the environment and always hoped,

in the back of my mind, that someday the right

opportunity would arise there. Ultimately it did.

You have now been with Bergdorf Goodman

for more than five years and are currently

men’s fashion director. What does your role

entail?

As men’s fashion director for both Bergdorf

Goodman and Neiman Marcus my role is

incredibly varied. I’m always on the hunt for

new and exciting brands for our customers;

constantly looking for ways to engage and

excite the customer both in store and online;

and working to identify and articulate trends

and newness in the marketplace that will be

compelling for our customer. I also work on the

concepts and style the shoots for our magazine,

the “Goodman’s Guide”, which comes out twice a

year. I’m also always thinking of ways to expand

the meaning of what we do inside the store’s

physical space, including find new ways to engage

and stimulate the customer. I enjoy immensely

how wide and varied my responsibilities are.

Is it stressful to constantly travel the world

looking for fresh menswear and streetwear for

the stores of such iconic American retailers?

Gratefully I absolutely love to travel and have a

virtually insatiable curiosity. I have been called

a cultural omnivore by a fellow journalist which

I thought was very apt. I am interested in most

everything and am always just naturally on the

hunt for things that are new, exciting, compelling

and interesting, whether it’s a new store, new

brand, a recently opened restaurant, a gallery,

a museum exhibition or a musical. Everything I

see informs my point of view and I never know

from where that next exciting idea may arise.

Tell us about your new shop-in-shop at

Bergdorf Goodman, B.?

On the third floor of the men’s store, developing

B. has been a really fun and satisfying experience

and it has been exciting to see it resonate with

customers. It’s a multi-vendor concept shop

for the Bergdorf Goodman customer, filled with

wardrobe items and style-minded pieces that

I’ve seen on my travels, plus items I’ve developed

in collaboration with favourite designers. It is

a way for me to showcase clothing that is a

little more quiet and personal style driven. It is

merchandised like a closet, with items placed

next to each other as outfit suggestions to assist

customers as they shop. (www.bg.com/bshop) ►


B. SHOP AT BERGDORF GOODMAN, NEW YORK

We understand that B. was kitted-out by your

set designer brother Scott?

My brother Scott is a triple Tony award-winning

set designer and an incredible talent, so it was

natural to involve him in the design concept of

the shop. We wanted it to feel welcoming and

warm and a place where people enjoy spending

time, so we took elements from a cottage I have

on Long Island, like shingles and peg boards, to

give it a very residential and comfortable feel.

Which Fashion Week destinations do you most

enjoy visiting?

I love London very much and I never miss a dinner

at the Marksman pub in Hackney, with its beautiful

private dining room designed by Martino Gamper

(www.marksmanpublichouse.com). I enjoy staying

at the recently refurbished Excelsior Hotel Gallia in

Milan, because everything is positioned exactly where

it makes the most perfect sense in its guest rooms

(www.excelsiorhotelgallia.com). In Paris, I am always

on the lookout for a good new restaurant, with Clown

Bar being a favourite (www.clown-bar-paris.com), as

well as the more discrete Chez La Vielle where I can

have a delicious dinner at the bar (www.chezlavieille.fr).

Copenhagen is filled with amazing restaurants. I

love 108 run by the Noma folks (www.108.dk) as

well as Relae (www.restaurant-relae.dk), Manfreds

(www.manfreds.dk) and the Mikkeller

bars (www.mikkeller.dk).

Which country or region of the world talks to you

most in terms of fashion creativeness?

Asia has some of the most fascinating and inventive

retail experiences. Tokyo, Seoul and Hong Kong are

always exciting places to travel to and explore.

What are your favourite labels to wear?

I wear a sort of uniform, incorporating a few key

elements which balance between dressy and casual. I

wear Le Mont St Michel chore jackets a lot, with Comme

des Garçons striped shirts and Atelier & Repair khakis

and jeans. Atelier & Repairs is a small workshop in LA

where they take vintage denim and khakis and upcycle

them, applying tonal patches and embroidery to make

each pair unique (www.atelierandrepairs.com).

antique fabrics such as Victorian quilts.

Her quilted and printed shirts are terrific

(www.bodenewyork.com). Matt Williams’

Alyx collection of technically-minded

tailored sportswear is looking really good

(www.alyxstudio.com). A-COLD-WALL*

out of London (www.a-cold-wall.com).

How important do you think social media

is in the modern retail environment?

Social media has been a great way for me

to connect directly with people around the

world who have an interest in menswear

and fashion. Messages I received on Instagram

definitely helped solidify my feelings that there

would be interest in a B. concept shop based

on items I wear and things I love. I really enjoy

the accessibility and the ease with which I can

share images, ask for opinions and engage

with readers and followers. I think the personal

connection that social media facilitates is very

important in the modern retail world and the

feedback provided is vital. @brucepask

Somewhere you’d love to visit?

Surprisingly, given how much I travel, I have

never visited Greece and would love to. I would

also like to visit Portugal and go on safari

in Africa. I am so curious about everything

I would actually travel almost anywhere!

Six things you wouldn’t fly

without in your carry-on?

My vintage Helmut Lang denim

jacket, Orlebar Brown swim

shorts, Le Mont St Michel

chore coat, CLOSED x B.

collaboration khakis, a converter

and phone charger, and a Thom

Browne tie, since you never

know when you may need to

unexpectedly dress up!

Any up-and-coming designers we should be

looking out for?

Emily Bode’s line BODE, which produces one-of-akind,

handcrafted clothing in New York, cut from


From top left, clockwise,

The Marksman’s private dining

room; Excelsior Hotel Gallia;

Clown Bar; Chez La Vielle; 108

restaurant; Bruce in London

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR

A young man in the Ajmer region of the Indian state of Rajasthan is ready to parade his coiffured

and decorated camels, in front of tough judges and an excited crowd at Pushkar’s annual camel fair

4-12 November 2019

On these two pages you’ll find the web addresses for every place mentioned in this issue of The Cultured Traveller magazine

1

108 RESTAURANT www.108.dk/en

A

A COLD WALL www.a-cold-wall.com

ALBUQUERQUE INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA

www.balloonfiesta.com

ALTER, MIAMI www.altermiami.com

ALXY STUDIO www.alyxstudio.com

ANDAZ VIENNA AM BELVEDERE www.andaz.com

ANIMASYROS 12 www.nimasyros.gr

ATELIER & REPAIRS www.atelierandrepairs.com

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS MUSIC FESTIVAL

www.aclfestival.com

B

B. SHOP www.shop.bg.com/bshop

BAIEBAR www.baiebar.com

BALGOVE LARDER www.balgove.com

BELVEDERE, WARSAW www.belvedere.com.pl

BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL

www.whatson.bfi.org.uk/lff

BODE www.bodenewyork.com

BRAEMAR GATHERING www.braemargathering.org

BRISBANE GOOD FOOD & WINE SHOW

www.goodfoodshow.com.au/brisbane

C

CAFE BUDAPEST CONTEMPORARY ARTS FESTIVAL

www.cafebudapestfest.hu

CHABLÉ MAROMA www.chablemaroma.com

CHARLIE www.facebook.com/charliebarwarsaw

CHERNOBYL TOURS www.chernobyl-tours.com

CHEZ LA VIEILLE www.chezlavieille.fr/en

CLOUDMINE www.en.cloudmine.pl

CLOWN BAR www.clown-bar-paris.com

COLLAGE www.collagecollage.pl/en

D

DAVID GUETTA www.davidguetta.com

DER ELEFANT www.derelefant.com/en

E

EBEN HOUSE www.ebenhouse.com

EGELI GALLERY www.egeligallery.com

ELIXIR www.domwodki.pl/en

EXCELSIOR HOTEL GALLIA MILAN

www.excelsiorhotelgallia.com

F

FAIRMONT HOTEL VIER JAHRESZEITEN

www.fairmont.com/vier-jahreszeiten-hamburg

FAIRMONT ST ANDREWS

www.fairmont.com/st-andrews-scotland

FICKSBURG CHERRY FESTIVAL www.cherryfestival.co.za

FISHER & DONALDSON

www.fisheranddonaldson.com

FLYER’S BOAT RENTAL www.flyersboats.com

FREGATE ISLAND www.fregate.com

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM www.muzeum.nifc.pl/en

H

HIGANTES FESTIVAL www.philippinestravelhub.com

HOTEL AMPARO www.hotelamparo.com

HOTEL WARSZAWA www.warszawa.hotel.com.pl

J

JO MALONE www.jomalone.co.uk

JULIEN MACDONALD www.julienmacdonald.com

K

KACHI LODGE www.achilodge.com

KIELISZKI NA HOŻEJ www.kieliszkinahozej.pl/en

KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ www.kieliszkinaproznej.pl/en

KOMODO, MIAMI www.komodomiami.com

L

ŁAZIENKI PARK AND PALACE

www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl/en

LES BAINS www.lesbains-paris.com

LOBSTER POT RESTAURANT

www.ptownlobsterpot.com

LONG BAR, WARSAW

www.raffles.com/warsaw/dining/long-bar

M


www.mamaisonleregina.com

MANFREDS www.manfreds.dk

MARKSMAN PUB www.marksmanpublichouse.com

MASSERIA TORRE MAIZZA www.roccofortehotels.com

MIKKELLER www.mikkeller.dk

MILOS HUDSON YARDS www.estiatoriomilos.com

MURAD www.murad.com

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART IN WARSAW

www.artmuseum.pl/en

2184 The The Cultured Traveller Dec Sep-Nov 2018 - Feb 2019 2019

MYDLARINA CZTERY SZPAKI 4

www.szpaki.pl

MYSIA 3 www.mysia3.pl/en

N

NAI YA RA www.naiyara.com

NEON MUZEUM www.neonmuzeum.org

NUXE www.nuxe.com

O

ODETTE, PARIS www.odette-paris.com

ONAM www.onamfestival.org

OPASLY TOM www.kregliccy.eu/opaslytom

OTTO POMPIERI www.ottopompieri.pl

OUTLOOK FESTIVAL www.outlookfestival.com

P

PALACE OF CULTURE & SCIENCE, WARSAW

www.pkin.pl/eng

PAN TU NIE STAŁ www.pantuniestal.com

PIRATES WEEK www.piratesweekfestival.com

POLIN MUSEUM

OF THE HISTORY OF POLISH JEWS

www.polin.pl/en

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl/en

PORCELANOWA www.porcelanowa.com

POSTER MUSEUM, WARSAW

www.postermuseum.pl

PROVINCETOWN ART ASSOCIATION & MUSEUM

www.paam.org

PROVINCETOWN www.provincetown.com

PTOWN BIKES www.ptwonbikes.com

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR

www.pushkar-camel-fair.com

R


www.raffles.com/warsaw

RAFFLES SHENZHEN

www.raffles.com/shenzhen

RELAE www.restaurant-relae.dk

RESET www.sklep.resetpoint.pl

RICE POLAK GALLERY

www ricepolakgallery.com

ROYAL CASTLE, WARSAW

www.zamek-krolewski.pl/en

ROZBRAT 20 www.rozbrat20.com.pl/en

S

SALT HOUSE INN www.salthouseinn.com

SHANGRI-LA HAMBANTOTA

www.shangri-la.com/hambantota

SINGER’S WARSAW JEWISH CULTURE FESTIVAL

www.shalom.org.pl/en

SINNER www.sinnerparis.com

SIR VICTOR www.sirhotels.com/en/victor

SOFITEL LONDON ST JAMES www.sofitelstjames.com

SOHO BEACH HOTEL www.sohobeachhouse.com

SOORI BALI www.sooribali.com

STK STEAK HOUSE www.stksteakhouse.com

SUBLIME COMPORTA www.sublimecomporta.pt

SZÓSTKA www.warszawa.hotel.com.pl

T

THAT LUANG FESTIVAL www.tourismlaos.org

THE CANTEEN www.thecanteenptown.com

THE CRITERION www.criterionstandrews.co.uk

THE HELSINKI DISTILLING COMPANY www.hdco.fi

THE HOXTON CHICAGO

www.thehoxton.com/illinois/chicago

THE MUSEUM ON THE VISTULA www.artmuseum.pl

THE PRAGA MUSEUM OF WARSAW

www.muzeumpragi.pl/en

THE PUXUAN HOTEL & SPA www.thepuxuan.com

THE RED INN www.theredinn.com

THE ROOTS www.therootsbar.com/en

TWA HOTEL www.twahotel.com

V

VILLAGE HALLOWEEN PARADE www.halloween-nyc.com

VISIT SCOTLAND www.visitscotland.com

VOODOO MUSIC + ARTS EXPERIENCE

www.voodoofestival.com

W

WELES www.welesbar.pl

WEXFORD FESTIVAL OPERA www.wexfordopera.com

WHITE PORCH INN www.whiteporchinn.com

WILANÓW PALACE AND PARK wilanow-palac.pl

WODA OGNISTA wodaognista.com

Z

ZACHĘTA – NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART

www.zacheta.art.pl/en

ZONI www.zoni.today/en

Dec Sep-Nov 2018 - Feb 2019 2019 The The Cultured Traveller 1853

(27) The Cultured Traveller - Fifth Anniversary Edition, September-November 2019 Issue 27

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