(25) The Cultured Traveller, March-May 2019 Issue 25

ISSUE 25

MAR-MAY 2019

PRAGUE

KYOTO • BALI • HOTEL SAVOY, FLORENCE

GUCCI GARDEN • ANA’S FIRST CLASS • LOU DALTON • MATSUHISA PARIS

Luxurious Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Hamburg has become an icon of European

grandeur. Since 1897 the elegant hotel welcomes guests from all over the world with

refined style and timeless grace at the Inner Alster Lake in the heart of Hamburg.

156 luxuriously furnished guest rooms and suites combine international standards

with local influences and exquisite materials. The culinary variety is outstanding,

the hotel`s philosophy simple: service, service, service - cordially and authentic.

Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14 | 20354 Hamburg, Germany | T +49 (0) 40 3494 0 | hamburg@fairmont.com | fairmont-hvj.de

CHARLES BRIDGE

PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC

HIGHLIGHTS

MAR-MAY 2019 ISSUE 25

54 THE MAJESTIC CZECH CAPITAL

A breathtaking mix of Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture,

the Czech capital has been a tourist magnet for decades. Brimming

with visitors year-round keen to cross one of Europe’s oldest bridges

and visit the world’s largest castle complex, Nicholas Chrisostomou

heads to PRAGUE to see whether its art, food and beverage

scenes match its mighty historical and architectural prowess.

42 TROPICAL-CHIC RIO HOSPITALITY

Part of Rio’s allure has always been to marry tropical elegance with

the casual and an anything goes ethos, to create an intoxicating

tonic like no other. It is this Rio that Alex Benasuli experiences

when staying at HOTEL FASANO RIO DE JANEIRO, which embodies

the best of the famed Brazilian city and its motherland.

225 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

Shropshire-born LOU DALTON spent much of her youth on her

grandmother’s farm and left school at 16 to become a pattern cutter.

Two decades later, Dalton’s rugged-yet-refined AW19 collection

has been bought by Browns and Bergdorf Goodman, and her

collaboration with John Smedley is selling like hot cakes. Adrian Gibson

catches-up with the fast-rising British menswear designer.

206 FIRENZE’S FASHION GARDEN OF EDEN

Brainchild of Gucci’s superstar creative director Alessandro Michele,

Nicholas Chrisostomou investigates the brand’s restaurant, gallery

and concept store in Florence, GUCCI GARDEN, where the fine

diner, museum goer and fashion aficionado can all coalesce.

50 LIVE IT UP IN PARIS FOR FOUR DAYS

Opposite Gare du Nord, 25hours’ new 237-room Parisian property is

an homage to the lively spirit of the exuberant 10th arrondissement

in which it is located. In our issue 25 Prize Draw, win a fournight

weekend stay for two in the heart of the French capital at

lively 25HOURS HOTEL TERMINUS NORD, including welcome

cocktails, breakfasts and a slap-up dinner at NENI restaurant.

Mar-May 2019 The Cultured Traveller 5

54

133

206

225

CONTENTS

8 EDITOR’S LETTER

10 CONTRIBUTORS

12 NEWSFLASH

The Cultured Traveller rounds-up the

most important cultural experiences

and unmissable festivals happening

around the world in the coming

months, including València’s parade

of giant puppets LAS FALLAS in Spain;

India’s ancient HOLI ritual to mark the

beginning of spring; the CAPE TOWN

JAZZ FESTIVAL, this year headlined

by CHAKA KHAN; the planet’s richest

horse race, the DUBAI WORLD CUP;

ULTRA MUSIC FESTIVAL in Miami; the

world’s biggest festival in the snow

SNOWBOMBING, and SANTA CLARITA

COWBOY FESTIVAL held annually

30 mins north of Los Angeles.

24 REST YOUR HEAD

The Cultured Traveller checks into

SOFITEL PARIS LE FAUBOURG in the

heart of the French capital; ubercool

5-room CASA TELMO on the

Balearic island of Menorca; 150-yearold

London hospitality landmark

KETTNER’S TOWNHOUSE, which

has been reborn by the Soho House

Group; Bermuda’s first new-build

hotel for 45 years, THE LOREN; hip and

trendy TRUNK boutique hotel in Tokyo,

and the swishy WALDORF ASTORIA

BEVERLY HILLS, set in America’s most

famously upscale neighbourhood.

120 SUITE ENVY

Positioned at the heart of Italy’s cultural

capital on Piazza della Repubblica and

standing shoulder-to-shoulder with the

city’s designer stores, HOTEL SAVOY

skilfully combines the personality of an

Italian grand dame with the warmth

and charm of a boutique property.

Nicholas Chrisostomou ventures to

Tuscany to explore inimitable Florence

from the divine surroundings of the

city’s most fabulous accommodation,

the DUOMO PRESIDENTIAL SUITE.

133 BOARDING PASS

Flying in first still has cachet and elicits

excitement even amongst the most

jaded of travellers. While All Nippon

Airways’ premium product is not at the

same level as Emirates and Singapore

Airlines, it is the most stylish way to

fly direct to Japan from North America

and Europe. Alex Benasuli embraces

refined, Japanese-style omotenashi

hospitality in ANA’S 777 FIRST CLASS.

142 NO SHOES REQUIRED

Routinely flooded with globetrotters

all searching for their own form of

paradise, huge visitor numbers have

contributed to Bali’s environmental

24

184

106

199

152

problems and persuaded many

discerning holidaymakers to drop

anchor elsewhere. But Carolyn

McKay manages to kick-off her shoes

in a divine clifftop vacation hideaway

at BANYAN TREE UNGASAN,

that strikes the perfect balance

between Balinese spirituality, hotel

functionality and five-star luxury.

152 SPOTLIGHT

In this day and age, any country

which measures and protects the

collective happiness and wellbeing

of its population in terms of its Gross

National Happiness must surely be

on the bucket list of every happy-golucky

globetrotter! Add to this royal

tigers, soaring mountains, ancient

traditions and tales of dragons, and

the Himalayan destination of BHUTAN

seems like nowhere else on earth.

The Cultured Traveller takes a look.

168 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

The pinnacle of Japanese civilization,

history and culture, KYOTO also

combines big city sophistication with

small town charm. Having immersed

himself in this most rewarding of

destinations, Alex Benasuli feels that

he will never be the same again.

Visions of golden leaf-accented

dark wood pagodas, vermillioncoloured

Torii gates and kimono-clad

women are forever seared into his

memory. The joys of a city break

simply don’t get better than this.

184 TASTE & SIP REVIEW

More than 30 years after the first

Nobu opened in Beverly Hills,

MATSUHISA PARIS took the French

capital by storm when it opened

in 2016, bringing chef Nobuyuki

Matsuhisa’s unique Japanese-

Peruvian cuisine to a city with a

reputation for culinary conservatism.

Situated within the hallowed walls

of the legendary Royal Monceau, the

restaurant promises Joe Mortimer

a celebratory dining experience

that tantalises all of his senses.

212 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

DANIEL MÜLLER-SCHOTT is widely

recognised as one of the best cellists

of his generation and has played

every great concert hall around the

world. Once described by the New

York Times as a “fearless player

with outstanding technique”, when

travelling to a performance his cello

gets its own plane ticket and sits in

the seat next to him. The Cultured

Traveller catches-up with the globetrotting

classical music ambassador.

236 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

142

212

120

From left to right: A Buddhist

Festival in Bhutan; The Duomo

Presidential Suite, Hotel Savoy,

Florence; The Church of

Our Lady before Týn in

Old Town Square, Prague.

EDITOR’S LETTER

Travelling should be all about

exploring a place or destination

for oneself and discovering the

particular elements that appeal

to you. I fear that social media may have

taken us too far past this, in that we seem

to be following the “likes” and dislikes of

other people much more today than we

otherwise would have a few years ago, and

hence not uncovering anywhere near as

many new wonders as we used to. It seems

to me that too many travellers are piggybacking

on the experiences of others, and truly

missing out on making new discoveries for themselves.

I almost fell foul of this myself, a few months ago.

I was informed, by many, that Prague was “ruined”

and well past its best. So multitudinous were the

negative comments, that Prague was not planned to

be a cover story. How wrong they all were. Yes, it was

busy, but no more so than Rome or Florence, both of

which have a far better rep than the Czech capital. First

class hospitality, well-organised tourist attractions, fine

cuisine, excellent cocktails, good shopping and friendly

locals all contributed to one of the best city-break

experiences in The Cultured Traveller’s history. So much

so, that I returned a few months later to delve deeper into

the heart of the beautiful city of 100 spires. (page54)

Also in Spring 2019 issue 25: Carolyn McKay kicks‐off

her shoes in a Balinese clifftop

hideaway that strikes the perfect

balance between functionality

and luxury (page142); Alex Benasuli

feels that he may never be the same

again, having been immersed in

the enchanting Japanese city of

Kyoto (page168); Adrian Gibson

catches-up with fast-rising British

menswear designer Lou Dalton

(page225), and Joe Mortimer’s

taste buds think it’s Christmas at

Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s eponymous Parisian outpost,

at the legendary Royal Monceau (page184).

I expect that many of you are planning your summer

sojourns as we speak. Before you book the hotel that

your best friend holidayed at last year, do a little bit

of research and see what you can find. After all, the

joy of globetrotting is in uncovering the unexpected,

visiting somewhere different, sampling something

new and going home with unique memories, isn’t it?

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief

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8 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2019

CONTRIBUTORS

JOE MORTIMER

TASTE & SIP REVIEW

Joe Mortimer is a UK-based writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel

and high-end hospitality. Joe has visited 60 countries and stayed in more than

100 luxury hotels and resorts, as well as having wined and dined in some of the

best restaurants in the world. In between journeys, Joe Mortimer has interviewed

high-profile characters in the world of luxury including the chief executives and

presidents of brands such as Lamborghini, LVMH, Hublot and Montblanc as well as

legendary chefs including Pierre Gagnaire, Nobu Matsuhisa and Marco Pierre White.

ADRIAN GIBSON

STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

Adrian worked as a professional fashion buyer for some of London’s leading

department stores for more than two decades, including Selfridges, Harrods and

Harvey Nichols. More recently Adrian has been working in the Middle East selecting

designer threads for both Harvey Nichols and Bloomingdales in Dubai. An avid shopper,

he enjoys nothing more than visiting stores, meeting designers and supporting new

talent where ever and whenever he’s travelling the globe, as well as keeping a keen

eye on the latest trends, both on the world’s most fashionable streets and online.

ALEX BENASULI

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Alex Benasuli has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New

York City, he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives

in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two-decade career in finance

often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over

the Far East. Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex

also has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels

with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

CAROLYN MCKAY

NO SHOES REQUIRED

Carolyn McKay grew up in Australia, taking her first overseas trip when she

was 16. This trip sparked an intense passion to travel. In the last twenty years,

via her teaching, photography and writing, she has lived in Jakarta, London

and New York and travelled to numerous destinations in between. Based in Sri

Lanka for the past few years, she uses her Indian Ocean base to travel regularly

within Asia Pacific. Carolyn especially loves exploring markets, and is always

on the lookout for a quality coffee and a comfortable spot to people watch.


IN THE HEART OF PARIS, BETWEEN THE HIGHLY ELEGANT FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ AND THE

MYTHICAL CHAMPS-ELYSÉES AVENUE, EXPERIENCE A FASHION SHOW ATMOSPHERE.

A GLAMOROUS VISION OF PARISIAN STYLE, INSPIRED BY HAUTE COUTURE.

15, RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS – 75008 PARIS – FRANCE

TEL : (+33)01 44 94 14 14 – H1295@SOFITEL.COM – WWW.SOFITEL-PARIS-LEFAUBOURG.COM

ITB BERLIN

GERMANY

The world’s largest

tourism trade fair could

be just the ticket if

some inspiration is needed for your next

cultured travelling experience! ITB Berlin

is billed as a trip around the globe in just

a few hours, and an opportunity to

explore destinations in over 180

countries. With more than 10,000

exhibitors it might be a bit of a

nightmare to navigate, but thankfully it’s

made easier by being divided into

regions and thematic sections, including

responsible tourism, business travel,

cultural tourism, adventure travel,

medical tourism, travel technology, LGBT

travel and etravel. A map of the

exhibition layout is available online, so

you can plan what to see before arriving.

This mammoth, annual event has

surprises around every corner - expect

everything from flamenco dancing to

henna hand-painting, massages to

cooking demonstrations, EDM to folk

dancing. For travel professionals there

are also press conferences, talks,

product presentations and networking

events.

6-10 March 2019

www.itb-berlin.de

LAS FALLAS

SPAIN

This noisy, exuberant

celebration, which

involves masses of

fireworks and the burning of giant

puppets, attracts hundreds of thousands

of visitors from around the world to

València. Held in honour of St. Joseph’s

Day on 19th March, Las Fallas is believed

to have originated in a pagan celebration

of the spring equinox and is first

recorded as being held in the late 15th

century. Each neighbourhood in Valencia

funds the construction of its own ‘falla’ -

the wood and papier-mâché sculptures

at the heart of the fiesta - which often

reach 15 metres high and usually poke

fun at local and international politicians

and celebrities. The fallas are placed at

key points around the city so visitors

can wander about and check them out,

before they are burned on night of the

final day (19th March) in a ceremonial

explosion, accompanied masses of

fireworks. Expect many effigies of

Donald Trump to be raised to the ground!

15-19 March 2019

www.visitvalencia.com


ST. PATRICK’S DAY

IRELAND

Held to commemorate

Ireland’s patron saint

and the arrival of

Christianity, St. Patrick’s Day has been

an official Christian feast day since

the early 17th century. Legend has it

that the association with shamrocks

and the “wearing of the green” stems

back to Saint Patrick’s use of the

three-leaved plant to explain the Holy

Trinity to the pagan Irish. Celebrated in

more countries than any other national

festival, today St. Patrick’s Day is a

tribute to the far-reaching influence

of the Emerald Isle’s expatriate

population. However, there’s nothing

like experiencing 17th March in Ireland

itself, where the public holiday is the

climax of a long party. The official

festival, established by the Irish

government 24 years ago, includes

four days of street parades, concerts,

céilithe (traditional music sessions),

theatre performances and fireworks.

Whilst the best place to participate in

the revelry is Dublin, cities, towns and

villages throughout Ireland hold their

own parades and festivals.

17 March 2019

www.stpatricksfestival.ie

2019 F1 AUSTRALIAN

GRAND PRIX

AUSTRALIA

The second oldest

surviving motor

race in Australia

(after the Alpine Rally), the F1 Rolex

Australian Grand Prix is also the first

opportunity of the season for fans

to catch a glimpse of new supercars

on Melbourne’s famous Albert Park

Grand Prix Circuit. On 17th March,

Lewis Hamilton will start his world

championship defence with the likes of

Sebastian Vettel on his tail. Meanwhile,

Australia’s Daniel Ricciardo will be

vying for a podium spot in his hotly

anticipated first race for Renault Sport.

Albert Park is an exhilarating setting

for drivers and spectators alike, since

it boasts a thrilling combination of

fast straights and demanding slow

speed turns with multiple overtaking

opportunities. The Heineken Village

offers a unique and interactive setting

with races, where fans can unwind

and enjoy the complete Formula

1 experience in style. Meanwhile,

an F1 Fan Zone is home to motor

shows and kids’ corner, so there’s

something for every family member.

17 March 2019

www.australia-grand-prix.com/en

HOLI

INDIA

This ancient Hindu ritual

to mark the beginning

of spring - otherwise

known as the Festival of Colours due

to the bright powder participants throw

at each other - is essentially a two-day

celebration of the triumph of good over

evil. The proceedings begin with the

lighting of Holika bonfires, symbolising

how the God Vishnu helped burn

the devil Holika, according to Hindu

scriptures. The next day, Rangwali Holi

is when people delight in covering their

neighbours in water and a rainbow

of gulal, or paint powder (apparently

Lord Krishna, a reincarnation of Lord

Vishnu, liked to prank village girls in

this manner). While Holi is observed

throughout the world, the best places

to see the festival are India and Nepal,

especially Delhi, Varanasi, Vrindavan

and Jaipur. One note: women should

avoid walking about alone during

Holi as some men take it as an

opportunity to get a little too friendly!

21 March 2019

www.goindia.about.com

CAPE TOWN

JAZZ FESTIVAL

SOUTH AFRICA

Celebrating its

twentieth birthday in

2019, the Mother City’s

annual award-winning celebration of

jazz will once again take over the Cape

Town International Convention Centre

for two full days, featuring every type

of live performer, from global legends

and festival newcomers to musical

storytellers and up-tempo high-energy

acts for younger attendees. More than

forty local and international artists

will perform on five stages, including

Cameroonian Grammy Award-winning

jazz bassist; London-based saxophonist

and composer Nubya Garcia; South

Africa’s Soweto Gospel Choir; Brazilian

multi Latin Grammy Award-winning

jazz pianist, singer and composer

Eliane Elias, and French multiinstrumentalist

singer FKJ. Topping the

bill will be Chaka Khan (pictured) who

is arguably one of the world’s most

famous musicians complete with a rich

musical legacy including 10 Grammy

Awards. Khan is a songwriter, actor,

author, philanthropist, entrepreneur and

activist who has influenced generations

of recording artists, releasing 22

albums and racking-up ten Billboard

#1 songs in the process, including

her smash hit ‘I’m Every Woman’.

29-30 March 2019

www.capetownjazzfest.com

DUBAI WORLD CUP

U.A.E.

Get the hatbox down

from the top of the

wardrobe and dry clean

your best designer togs - the planet’s

richest annual horse race is upon us

again! Held in one of the world’s most

talked-about cities and attracting

the cream of Dubai society as well

as a fair few international glitterati,

the Gulf’s leading equestrian event is

as much about being seen as it is a

tribute to the beauty of Arabian horses.

The culmination of Dubai’s World Cup

carnival, the main event at Meydan

Racecourse, will see USD 35million

of prizes presented to the winners of

the day’s nine races, which include

eight thoroughbred contests and one

for purebred Arabians. The after-race

concert typically draws some of the

biggest names in pop (the past few

years have seen SIA, Janet Jackson,

Kylie and Jennifer Lopez take to the

stage) and the day naturally concludes

with a massive fireworks display.

30 March 2019

www.dubaiworldcup.com

ULTRA MUSIC

FESTIVAL

U.S.A.

Regularly voted the

world’s best by DJ

Magazine, Carl Cox,

Sasha, Jon Digweed and Sven Väth will

be among the headliners when one of

the world’s favourite electronic music

festivals cranks up the volume in new

downtown Miami locations for 2019:

historic Virginia Key Beach Park and

Miami Marine Stadium. This year’s

line-up fulfils the festival organises

commitment to expanding house and

techno programming. Eric Prydz will

perform a solo set, as well as a set

under his Cirez D techno alias alongside

Adam Beyer. Also billed are two epic

collaborations, Dog Blood (Boys Noize

and Skrillex) and Gigantic NGHTMRE

(Big Gigantic and NGHTMRE) that

will surely be bringing some serious

heat to this year’s festival. Popular

acts including Ghastly, 3LAU, Malaa,

Elephante and WHIPPED CREAM will

be performing on the Ultra Worldwide

stage. Meanwhile, the UMF Radio

stage will be bumping with epic

sets from Jai Wolf, Kasbo and Pluko,

along with a mau5trap takeover.

29-31 March 2019

ultramusicfestival.com


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NAGHOL LAND DIVING

VANUATU

This is not for the faint

hearted! Essentially the

precursor to bungee

jumping, this ancient ritual sees brave

men and boys of the Sa tribe (near

Tansip, on Pentecost Island in a remote

part of the South Pacific) hurtle towards

the ground head first from wooden

towers of 20-30 metres high, at speeds

of more than 40mph, with nothing more

than tree vines tied around their ankles

and no safety equipment. During the

preparation period, the men seclude

themselves from the women and refrain

from sex. Tribal members on terra firma

sing and dance to help the divers be

brave. The vines act as bungee cords

and each diver is invited to build their

own platform and select their own vine

so that no one else can be blamed for

a fatal accident! If the vine is too short

the jumper will crash into the tower.

If it’s too long he will almost certainly

break bones or possibly even perish.

Every Saturday between

April and June 2019

www.vanuatu.travel

SNOWBOMBING

THAILAND

Towards the end of

the traditional annual

ski season, the world’s

biggest festival in the snow kicks off

in the Austrian resort of Mayrhofen for

a week. Frequently referred to as the

Glastonbury of mountain gatherings,

days are spent skiing, boarding, enjoying

music in mountain-top locales, feasting

on vast spreads and relaxing in luxury

hotel saunas plus over 100 spas and

pools. Nights deliver a completely

different experience, with cutting-edge

performances happening in a host of

unique alpine venues, from pools and

sky-high igloos to enchanted forest

clearings and mountain stage sets,

and Austria’s largest fancy dress street

party. This year’s mammoth 20th

anniversary festivities feature more

than 100 of the biggest acts in the

business, headlined by famed British

electronic music duo Groove Armada (DJ

set), Grammy Award-winning British-

American rock band Fleetwood Mac,

world-famous British DJ Fatboy Slim and

pioneering electronic band The Prodigy.

8-13 April 2019

www.snowbombing.com

COACHELLA

U.K.

California’s glossy,

glam, dry and

heated answer to

the wet and mud of Glastonbury,

held at the Empire Polo Club in the

Colorado Desert over two consecutive

weekends, Coachella is the first major

international music event in the annual

festival calendar. Essentially a massive

well-organised cultural playground

hosting up to 100,000 people at any

one time, Coachella is attended by

sweaty fashionistas, designer-hippies

and musical trendsetters. Known

for its show-stopping all-star lineup

and breathtaking large-scale art

installations, the 2019 20th birthday

line-up for this veritable global

gathering is no exception and is led

by Ariana Grande (performing on both

weekends), Childish Gambino and

Tame Impala, plus Idris Elba and DJ

Snake on the decks. Other notable acts

include Solange, Janelle Monáe, Aphex

Twin, Billie Eilish, The 1975, Anderson,

Paak, Kacey Musgraves, Kid Cudi,

Weezer, CHVRCHES, Gesaffelstein,

Christine and the Queens, Mac

DeMarco, Maggie Rogers and South

Korean girl pop group BLACKPINK.

12-14 + 19-21 April 2019

www.coachella.com


SANTA CLARITA

COWBOY FESTIVAL

U.S.A.

About 30 minutes

north of Los Angeles,

the Californian city

of Santa Clarita is home to one of the

world’s biggest cowboy gatherings

which celebrates the state’s western

heritage: the Santa Clarita Cowboy

Festival. This action-packed happening

routinely attracts more than 10,000

attendees annually for its live music,

authentic western activities, trick ropers,

gun spinners, magicians and more, as

well as living history exhibits and fine

Western gear, not to mention Dutch

oven peach cobbler which is reputedly

so tasty it’s earned a reputation of its

own! This year, former festival director

Mike Fleming and his band, New West,

will host “New West and a Tribute

to Don Edwards” at Don Ygnacio del

Valle’s estancia, which is one of the best

surviving examples of an early Californio

Rancho in its original setting. Also this

year, a four meat “Cowboy Cook-Off”

will take place in the categories of pork,

pork ribs, brisket and chicken!

13-14 April 2019

www.cowboyfestival.org

SONGKRAN

THAILAND

The hottest month of

the year in Thailand

sees the entire country

go bananas in friendly water fights

and street parties that last nearly a

week! Derived from the Sanskrit word

sakrnti, and also known as Thai New

Year or the Thailand Water Festival,

Songkran was originally a way for Thai

people to sprinkle water on their family

members and elders to bring good

fortune, as well as pay their respects to

images of the beloved Buddha. Today,

the festival has transitioned into three

days of fun-filled water fights and

non-stop revelry in the scorching heat,

soaking locals and visitors alike in the

teeming streets, with buckets of water,

hoses and super-soakers. Previously

held on dates that were dependent

upon the Thai lunar calendar, whilst

Songkran is now commemorated on the

same days every year, the sopping wet

celebrations typically begin before and

end many days after the official holiday!

13-15 April 2019

www.songkranday.com

BRIGHTON FESTIVAL

U.K.

Taking place in

venues both familiar

and unusual across

the bohemian, British south coast

city, Brighton Festival is an annual

celebration of music, theatre, dance,

circus, art, film and literature via a

variety of events. A veritable creative

cornucopia of world-class art and

entertainment happenings - including

debates, musical concerts and theatrical

performances - many of the festival’s

events are specially commissioned

and have their first public airings

during these three weeks every May.

Previous guest directors of this critically

acclaimed London-By-The-Sea mixed

arts fest have included actress Vanessa

Redgrave (2012) and cartoonist David

Shrigley (2018). Guest director for the

festival’s 2019 outing is multi awardwinning

Malian singer, songwriter and

multi-instrumentalist Rokia Traoré,

pictured. Traoré’s album “Bowmboï”

won the Critics Award category at the

BBC Radio 3 Awards for World Music in

2004, and “Tchamantché” won Victoires

de la Musique World Music Album of the

Year in 2009. (www.rokiatraore.net/en)

4-26 May 2019

www.brightonfestival.org


CINCO DE MAYO

MEXICO

In mid-20th

century America,

the celebration of

Cinco de Mayo became, amongst

Mexican immigrants, a way of

boosting pride in their heritage, not

to mention an excuse to eat Mexican

food and drink tequila all day! But

in Mexico the holiday is celebrated

a little bit differently: since Cinco

de Mayo actually commemorates

a 1862 military victory, the day is

celebrated in the state of Puebla with

parades, speeches, mouthwatering

meals and historical re-enactments

of the famed battle. In Puebla,

visitors experience an authentic

and vibrant celebration, featuring

art spectacles, costumed paraders,

Mexican dancers, mariachi bands

and partying in the streets. Be sure

to sample mole poblano - the most

traditional Cinco de Mayo dish. It’s a

thick sauce made with green chillies

usually served over turkey or chicken.

5 May 2019

www.everfest.com

GIRONA FLOWER

FESTIVAL

SPAIN

The historic Spanish

city of Girona is

best known for its

medieval architecture, walled Old

Quarter and the Roman remains

of Força Vella fortress. But, for ten

days every year, Girona’s buildings,

courtyards, monuments and gardens

are adorned with more than one

hundred spectacular floral displays.

Whole streets become art installations

accompanied by music, light and

fountains, plus the intoxicating scent

of thousands of flowers. Whilst the

Town Hall always boasts a wellconstructed

and somewhat dignified

display that befits its central location

on the Plaça del Vi (the city’s bustling

square), throughout Girona during

the festival, the wonderful ensembles

of striking colours and penetrating

aromas that accompany the cultural

heritage of this beautiful Catalan city,

make it a must visit spring destination.

11-19 May 2019

www.gironatempsdeflors.cat

THRISSUR POORAM

ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

INDIA

Known as the cultural

capital of the Indian

state of Kerala,

Thrissur is rich in history, brimming

in cultural heritage and wealthy in

archaeological treasures. If you have a

weakness for colourful Indian festivals

that both delight and assault the

senses, then this is the one for you,

complete with fireworks, folk dancing,

revelry and drumming. In a region

in which elephants are a common

feature of religious festivities, Thrissur

Pooram stands out as an observance

that is especially endowed with the

presence of these giants, which are,

of course, the main attraction and

decorated with gleaming golden

headdresses, ornamental bells,

palm leaves, peacock feathers and

beautiful intricate paintings. Ornate

parasols - carried by the elephant

riders on tall bamboo poles - add to the

stunning overall visual feast of it all.

13 May 2019

www.thrissurpooramfestival.com

HAY FESTIVAL

WALES

For ten days annually

from the end of May

until early June, when

the playful British weather is most likely

to be bright and sunny, thousands

of literary buffs young and old alike

descend upon Hay-on-Wye, in Wales’

beautiful Brecon Beacons National

Park, to sit and read books. The worldfamous

Hay Festival celebrates great

writing from poets and scientists,

lyricists and comedians, novelists and

environmentalists, and the power of

great ideas to transform peoples’ way

of thinking, and gives everyone from

children to professors the opportunity

to enjoy the energy of the written word.

One of this year’s headline events is

a performance by the legendary Gipsy

Kings, featuring André Reyes, in the

evening of 30th May. The Gipsy Kings

first captured the world’s imagination

in 1987 with self-titled album ‘Gipsy

Kings’. More than three decades

later, the band has become a live

phenomenon, known for its energetic

sets that feature infectious Latin

rhythms and virtuoso guitar playing.

23 May-2 June 2019

www.hayfestival.com/wales


ST. PATRICK’S DAY

There’s nothing like experiencing St. Patrick’s Day in Ireland, where the 17th March public holiday is

the climax of four days of street parades, concerts, theatrical performances and partying

17 March 2019

Rest Your Head

SABI SANDS GAME RESERVE • MENORCA • BORA BORA • TOKYO • LONDON • PARIS

SAN FRANCISCO • LAS CATALINAS • RIO DE JANEIRO • BERMUDA • BEVERLY HILLS

CONRAD BORA BORA NUI

BORA BORA, FRENCH POLYNESIA

SABI SANDS GAME RESERVE, SOUTH AFRICA

ANDBEYOND TENGILE RIVER LODGE

Situated in a serene setting on a bend of the Sand River,

in private 65,000-hectare Sabi Sands Game Reserve

which flanks the south western section of South Africa’s

famed Kruger National Park, andBeyond Tengile River

Lodge was built sustainably with local materials and an

extremely light footprint so as to minimise its impact

on the incredible surroundings and provide guests

with a tranquil experience. Sand camouflages the

lodge’s rooftops and water treatment systems recycle

waste water for irrigation use. Discerning travellers

will know that Sabi Sands is renowned for its high

density of wildlife and prolific Big Five sightings.

“Tengile” translated means tranquil and this lies at

the very heart of the lodge’s design. Just nine spacious

air-conditioned suites offer expansive space for living,

relaxing and sleeping. Raised above ground level,

they give the impression that they’re floating over the

riverbed and provide exceptional views from the dappled

shade of a cool riparian forest - a setting that’s unique

to Sabi Sands. Complete with sunken lounges, elegant

bedrooms, sprawling en-suite bathrooms (featuring

both indoor and outdoor rain-showers) and decks with

private lap pools, all suites open out into the forest,

creating private spaces for guests to sit or dine al fresco.

Every suite is equipped with a pair of Swarovski Optik

binoculars for guests’ use and complimentary wi-fi.

In the main lodge areas, bespoke pieces of

artwork and furniture together with contemporary

African fabrics and finishes, celebrate the talent

of local designers and artists. Meanwhile, the

floorplan ensures a seamless indoor-outdoor

flow, the viewing deck being a focal point.

The incredible wildlife is obviously the main focus

of every stay, with twice daily game drives and

interpretive bush walks an inherent part of the safari

experience. Outside of these activities, the lodge features

a gym and in-suite massages can be arranged.

Gourmet food paired with delectable South

African wines combined with intimate and

attentive service courtesy of warm and friendly

staff make andBeyond Tengile River Lodge a

unique and special safari paradise.

www.andbeyond.com


MENORCA, SPAIN

CASA TELMO

Sporting an altogether more laid-back beat than

its infamous Balearic neighbour, beautiful beaches

and upscale hotels are luring a sophisticated

insider crowd to Menorca these days.

Punctuated by the historic twin towns of

Mahón and Ciutadella which are endearing in

very different ways, not to mention a plethora

of Neolithic monuments scattered across the

island, Menorca is the place for a relaxed G&T with

friends in a small bar overlooking the Med, rather

than an overpriced bottle of vodka and banging

house music. Indeed, if it wasn’t for the common

language, Ibiza and Menorca couldn’t be more

different if they were thousands of miles apart.

6km from Menorca airport, in the very centre

of Mahón, uber-cool five-bedroom Casa Telmo

occupies a pretty 19th century townhouse, and has

been designed to welcome visitors from all over

the world who want to enjoy the relatively unspoilt

Spanish paradise isle and its Caribbean-like beaches.

The boutique hotel’s millennial owners (twentysomething

interior designers from Barcelona and

founders of Quintana Partners Studio), based

their design aesthetic on the antics of a fictional

globetrotting traveller named Telmo, whom they

imagined had roamed the world before landing

on the island of Menorca. The décor of each guest

room reflects a stop on his journey and the end

result is wonderfully colourful, fun and eccentric.

Despite the complete overhaul of the threestorey

building, its elegant bones and original

features still remain, most noticeably traditional

terracotta tiling and chunky oak beams. But now

they are skilfully offset by a variety of objets d’art

and kitsch paraphernalia which its owners look

to have picked-up in Europe’s flea markets, all

of which have been employed to great effect.

Of the five quirky guest rooms, M is the

one to book. Sporting a retro pink-tiled rainshower

room, tartan chaise, unpainted plaster

walls and a floor-to-ceiling antique sideboard

filling a whole wall and serving as a headboard,

M couldn’t be further from Ibiza if you tried.

www.casatelmo.com


BORA BORA, FRENCH POLYNESIA

CONRAD BORA BORA NUI

Halfway between Australia and the USA and fifty

minutes by ‘plane northwest of Tahiti in the heart

of the French Polynesian South Pacific archipelago,

Bora Bora rises from the sea like a veritable jewel,

seemingly protected by one of the planet’s most

stunning lagoons. It’s a tiny speck of a volcanic

island with a total landmass of just over 30sqkm.

Being surrounded by beautiful coral reefs and

islets quite literally make it a dream destination.

Famous for its crystal waters in fifty shades

of blue and all-luxury accommodation much

of which is over-water bungalows, Bora Bora is

popular honeymooners and just about anyone who

enjoys being pampered on an island and always

a stone’s throw from tropical waters. Naturally,

vacationing in such surroundings doesn’t come

cheap, making Bora Bora the playground of the

rich and famous or a one-off treat for newlyweds.

Presiding over the longest (more than halfmile-long)

stretch of white-sand beach of any

Bora Bora hotel, on the southwest end of Motu

To’opua, the Conrad was previously a Hilton

before an extensive multi-million-dollar refurb.

As a Hilton it was the first resort to feature Bora

Bora’s now iconic over-water suites. As a Conrad,

the property now boasts 29 garden and beach

villas plus 86 overwater bungalows, including the

island’s only double-storey Presidential Suites

which comprise two master bedrooms, a pool,

hot tub and sauna, as well as butler service.

Approaching Conrad Bora Bora Nui on one of the

resort’s motorboats, across impossibly blue waters,

the resort genuinely looks like a screensaver which

has come to life, and it soon becomes apparent that

guests’ every whim is amply catered for. A fleet of

luxe golf carts whisk guests between their lodgings,

a variety of restaurants and bars, sprawling hilltop

spa, 18-hole mini golf course, huge tiered oceanfront

pool and the sea, where complimentary stand-up

paddleboards, kayaks and snorkel gear await. As if

this wasn’t enough to occupy guests, Conrad’s “Stay

Inspired” program offers a multitude of destinationfocused

activities and excursions, which on Bora

Bora includes snorkelling with manta rays.

www.conradhotels.com


PARIS, FRANCE

SOFITEL PARIS LE FAUBOURG

Nestled between the Place de la Concorde and Rue

Saint-Honoré, with the US Embassy and some of the

world’s leading fashion houses for neighbours, Sofitel

Paris Le Faubourg is the epitome of Parisian luxury: a

discreet hideaway in the heart of the city of lights.

The 148-room hotel, masterminded by design guru

Didier Gomez, is effortlessly stylish, from its unassuming

entrance and gorgeous gold and grey toned lobby,

to fabulous Bar Le Faubourg and inviting Blossom

restaurant, both of which are tasteful and refined.

Guestrooms pay homage to the hotel’s illustrious history as

the former Hôtel de Vouillemont, once a high society haunt, and

more recently, the headquarters of Marie-Claire magazine.

My ‘Luxury Room’ on the sixth floor is petite but well

proportioned, with a small walk-in dressing room and en suite

bathroom with Hermes amenities. The bedroom is framed

by a vintage photograph by British fashion photographer

Cecil Beaton, depicting models in Charles James ball gowns

for Vogue magazine. The black, taupe and teal palette of

the room is elegant and understated, with a rich textured

bedspread and a Louis XV armchair and footstool. Tasselled

bedside lights and moulded ceilings add a touch of ornate

embellishment that grace the charming room with the air of

a sophisticated private mansion, an effect increased by the

small balcony, affording me glimpses of Place de la Concorde

to the right and the shops of Rue Saint-Honoré to the left.

Menus at Blossom restaurant are changed every three months

to include dishes made with seasonal ingredients, and Paris’

relatively newfound interest in vegetarian and vegan cuisine is

apparent in the lunch menu, which features a selection of dishes

for healthy and ethically-minded diners. Guests are spoiled for

choice at breakfast, where baskets loaded with buttery croissants

and pain au chocolate are stacked next to decadent extras like

apple compote and honey from the hotel’s rooftop beehive.

The unflappable concierge team rise to every

occasion, from suggesting an appropriate venue to

watch a big sporting event, to swiftly making alternative

arrangements when protests prevent my Mercedes

S-Class airport transfer from reaching the hotel.

With its sharply cut, elegant style and the anticipatory

hospitality to match, Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg is a rare treat:

a glamorous haute couture haven where soft-touch service

is just as pleasing as its timeless aesthetic appeal.

www.sofitel-paris-lefaubourg.com


BERMUDA

THE LOREN

Dating back to 1609 when it was first discovered by shipwrecked English

sailors, Bermuda is the oldest remaining British overseas territory

and lies in the North Atlantic (yes, Bermuda is not in the Caribbean)

around 1,000 km east of North Carolina. Just 21 square miles in area,

it is made up of a crescent-shaped chain of 181 islets, rocky outcrops

and islands, and basks in glorious sunshine for much of the year.

Among Bermuda’s many delights are pink coral-tinted sandy

beaches, numerous opportunities for sailing, diving and sports fishing,

a liberal number of world-class golf courses scattered across the

island and some rather excellent restaurants. Lush greenery, pastelcoloured

cottages, traditional British pubs and colonial buildings

dotting the island add to Bermuda’s quaint, laidback charm.

Bermuda’s hospitality scene isn’t exactly contemporary, with many

of the island’s most popular hotels dating back to the 19th century,

complemented by a number of unspecial smaller establishments.

Think lots of chintz and multitudinous overstuffed sofas. So, when

Bermuda’s first new-build hotel in 45 years opened its swishy

doors, it was always going to be something of a game changer.

In stark contrast to the island’s traditional British-colonial

style (which is evident pretty much everywhere in Bermuda),

The Loren is all sleek finishing, clean lines and angles.

Set on the stunning South Shore of the island which

boasts some of Bermuda’s most beautiful beaches, The Loren

straddles two of them, and is just ten minutes away from

the airport. The capital, Hamilton, is 15 minutes away.

Inside, light and airiness prevail, and the lobby is more akin to

the stylish living room of a well-to-do friend than a hotel. Chintzy

and overstuffed The Loren is not. Contemporary and design forward

it most certainly is, and the sophisticated colour palette is carried

through to its very 45 generous guest rooms, all of which boast

gorgeous bathrooms with walk-in rain showers, deep freestanding

tubs, twin sinks, MALIN+GOETZ toiletries and custom flip-flops.

Outside, the infinity pool is carved into a cliff, is more for coolingoff

in rather than exercising, and is so close to the ocean that bathers

get splashed by sea spray. A bijou spa offers a range of rather good

bespoke treatments using natural botanicals and French skincare

brand Yon-ka. There’s a post-golfing massage, a hairdresser to tame

unruly locks and The Loren has a tie-up with The Mid Ocean Golf Club

five minutes-drive away. It may have been a long time coming, but

The Loren is most certainly a hospitality hole in one for Bermuda.

www.thelorenhotel.com


BEVERLY HILLS, U.S.A.

WALDORF ASTORIA BEVERLY HILLS

Is there a discerning globetrotter on the planet

who hasn’t heard of Beverly Hills? From luxury

hotels and world-class shopping, to celebrated

restaurants and celebrity homes, Rodeo Drive,

renowned art galleries and the iconic 90210 zip

code, Beverly Hills is undoubtedly the luxury capital

of America. And when it comes to hospitality, it

offers everything from boutique hotels to luxury

resorts, five-star landmarks and lavish retreats.

Two of the world’s most famous hotels are in

Beverly Hills - The Beverly Wilshire and The Beverly

Hills Hotel - so was there really room for another

luxury hospitality haven? The answer is “yes”,

because there’s always room for more luxury in

Beverly Hills! And so, after ten years of planning

and a construction cost of more than USD1 million

per room, the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills threw

open its glamorous doors, overlooking the so-called

“Golden Triangle” district, and quickly became a

favourite amongst California’s movers and shakers.

Conceived by much celebrated French

designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, Waldorf Astoria’s

first West Coast build is overtly opulent at

every turn, kicking-off with the soaring, threetiered

lobby bedecked in Lalique, Italian marble,

22-carat gold leaf and polished cherry wood.

Upstairs, the 119 rooms and 51 suites are just

as OTT, boasting enormous walk-in closets, floorto-ceiling

windows and private balconies that offer

views towards the Hollywood Hills and beyond.

On the expansive rooftop deck, LA’s finest tan

and chillax around a sparkling saltwater pool and

nibble on divine fare prepared by Jean-Georges

Vongerichten’s crew. Unsurprisingly, given that the

famed New York-based celebrity chef oversees the

entire hotel’s dining program, everything one eats at

Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills is top notch and tasty.

For those who never want the party to end, the

hotel’s Rolls Royce offers guests complimentary

two-mile rides. And just when you thought it

couldn’t get any more L.A., there’s rooftop yoga

on Sundays, complete with views stretching

to Griffith Observatory and Hollywood.

www.waldorfastoriabeverlyhills.com


LAS CATALINAS, COSTA RICA

SANTARENA HOTEL

Visiting Costa Rica has become increasingly popular

in recent years, not least because its strikingly diverse

terrain of lush forests, wildlife reserves and tropical

beaches offers a little something for every traveller. Beach

lovers head to Guanacaste and the Nicoya Peninsula’s

palm-fringed coastline for sun and surf. Nature-seekers

make their way to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca before

venturing inland to zip line over the Monteverde Cloud

Forest Reserve and hike up Arenal Volcano. Native

Costa Ricans being incredibly tourist-friendly and

welcoming people from all over the world with open

arms is fuelling the country’s gentle tourism boom. And

a growing number of Costa Ricans (especially in the

tourist industry and professional fields) speak English.

A beautiful, car-free and entirely walkable new

beach town, situated along the shores of the Pacific

in Guanacaste province in the northwest of the

country, Las Catalinas was purpose-built to create a

healthy, sustainable, fulfilling and fun lifestyle for its

residents and visitors, and make it easy to connect

with nature. And the water in the bay of Catalinas

- on both sandy Danta and its smaller companion

beach Danita - is incredibly calm for central America,

making it perfect for SUP and snorkelling.

Perched above Danta Beach, Santarena Hotel

taps into Catalinas’ boho lifestyle, not least with

its organic approach to wellness and dining. The

elevated local cuisine is strictly farm-to-fork with a

focus on sustainability. And guests are encouraged

to make the most of their stay by hiking and

mountain biking through the tropical forest inland

or kayaking and scuba diving along the coast.

Back at base, 45 individually-designed rooms

feature king-sized beds, timber floors fashioned from

sustainable woods and large bathrooms with locally

sourced amenities. Most boast private balconies

adorned with handmade Cuban-style pressed tiles.

Neutral colour palettes offset with bursts of aqua and

sea blue provide a calming yet vibrant atmosphere.

A roof-top lounge and swimming pool

completes the offering to make Santarena Hotel

the perfect base from which to explore Costa

Rica’s coastline and tropical dry forest.

www.santarenahotel.com


LONDON, U.K.

KETTNER’S TOWNHOUSE

Kettner’s, the Soho restaurant founded in

1867 by a man once thought to be a former

chef of Napoleon III, has been reborn as an

affordably glamorous hotel and restaurant

courtesy of the Soho House group (the private

members club which backs onto Kettner’s).

In its heyday, it’s said that Auguste Kettner’s

establishment was the location of trysts

between Edward VII and actress Lillie Langtry,

who were able to rendezvous thanks to a

network of tunnels between the restaurant and

Palace Theatre across the road. Oscar Wilde

became a regular. Later, so was Agatha Christie.

In restoring and enhancing the beautiful

building’s many listed features, the upstairs

“cabinets particulier” dining rooms, (apparently

home to much naughtiness in the past),

have been transformed into 33 rather spiffing

bedrooms, which mix French-inspired touches

with William Morris headboards, are heavy

on pattern and texture yet retain their original

Georgian fireplaces and wooden floorboards.

The room to book is the first floor 80sqm

Grade II-listed Jacobean Suite, which not only

boasts a spacious art nouveau-decorated living

and dining area, but also a large freestanding

copper bath and its own private entrance

onto Greek street. (From GBP800 per night)

Meanwhile, downstairs, the creamy,

delicate plasterwork, listed mouldings and

original mirrors of the restaurant and two

bars have been returned to their former glory

- thankfully without losing Kettner’s slightly

naughty past. Even the mosaic floor in the

champagne bar was painstakingly restored.

Thus, has begun another chapter in

the history of a Soho institution that first

brought French cuisine to London. And,

whilst no tunnels were discovered during

the renovation, arranging a discreet têteà-tête

at today’s Kettner’s (especially in

the Jacobean Suite) is infinitely much

easier than it was 150 years ago..

www.kettnerstownhouse.com


RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL

HOTEL FASSANO RIO DE JANEIRO

Blessed by a dramatic topography of undulating ocean bays with ribbons of seemingly

endless white sand beaches framed by lush mountains, Rio’s natural advantages and good

looks automatically propel it to the top of the world’s most stunning metropoles.

The Rio of the 1950s and 1960s gave us sultry Bossa Nova and a sensual interpretation of mid-century

modern architecture and design. Ipanema Beach, Immortalised forever in Antônio Carlos Jobim’s iconic “Girl

From Ipanema”, is famous the world over for its long, picture perfect beach, swaying palm trees and scantilyclad

beachgoers and volleyball players. Part of Rio’s allure has always been to marry tropical elegance with

the casual and an anything goes ethos, to create an intoxicating tonic like no other. It is this Rio that one

experiences when staying at Hotel Fasano Rio De Janeiro, which embodies the best of Rio and its motherland.

The Fasano family arrived in Brazil more than a century ago, from Italy, and first established its

reputation for attentive and upscale hospitality in São Paulo. Known initially for its gastronomic

excellence in cafés and then restaurants, the family opened its São Paulo hotel in 2003 to

immediate acclaim. The family’s name has since become a synonym for discreet luxury.

Ideally located in the Arpoador section of Ipanema, the beachfront Fasano in Rio

benefits from being on a somewhat quieter part of the beach, affording a sense of intimacy

and discretion, while at the same time being a stone’s throw from the cafés, boutiques

and parade of gym-toned bodies that make Ipanema so desirable and fun.

Being Philippe Stark’s first hospitality project in Brazil, the Fasano is a love story to Brazilian

modernism, known for its ingenious combinations of tropical woods, man-made materials,

curvilinear shapes, light shafts and spaces that seamlessly flow from in to outdoors.

Sometimes the Fasano feels dark and clubby, yet at others light and breezy.

Irrespective, the results are always pitch perfect and ocean vistas never far away.

The lobby is a symphony of well-considered soft furnishings in leather, carved wood

tables and sophisticated upholstery. Cleverly positioned floor-to-ceiling roller blinds

reveal walls of windows that look out to garden nooks and more ocean. Philippe Stark’s

signature flowing white curtains create theatrical dividers throughout the space.

Upstairs, the 89 rooms and 10 suites continue the tropical-chic look, and play with dark

accents, mirrors and natural light to create spaces that are as comfortable as they are easy

on the eyes. Be sure to splurge on a deluxe room for unobstructed ocean views.

Onsite Al Mare all day dining restaurant focusses on Italian-inspired seafood. Breakfasts

include a kaleidoscope of the freshest and most exotic indigenous tropical fruits available.

The hotel’s moody and sexy bar, Baretto Londra, boasts deep brown leather and cowhide

chairs and sofas, and a giant Union Jack flag in homage to London, the owners’ favourite

city. Evocative of a British private members’ club, Baretto is a perpetual hot ticket and

one of the city’s most exclusive watering holes, particularly over the weekends.

While the gym and spa more than hold their own in the luxury boutique hotel category, it is

the rooftop pool that truly impresses and catapults the Rio outpost of Fasano into global best

status. The incredible views span the entire oceanfront, all the way down Ipanema past Leblon

and to Tijuca mountain range. Sipping a passionfruit caipirinha here at sunset, seated at the

poolside rooftop bar, is the epitome of tropical sophistication. Rio is known as the “Cidade

Maravilhosa” or “Marvellous City”. Nowhere is it more marvellous than at the Fasano.

www.fasano.com.br


TOKYO, JAPAN

TRUNK (HOTEL)

Considered by many to be one of Tokyo’s two best

neighbourhoods (the other being Shinjuku), Shibuya

combines cutting-edge fashion and old-fashioned fun

with parks, cultural experiences and tourist attractions.

Shibuya’s Center Gai is one of the best places to see

Japanese youth culture and Shibuya’s scramble crossing

is one of the most photographed sights in Japan. At

the very center of this fashion-focused district and just

seconds from the epicentre of Harajuku’s famed street

fashion culture, Cat Street, TRUNK offers a resolutely

“made in Japan” experience that draws from both the

traditional and trendsetting aspects of Tokyo life.

Located on a small lane amidst aromatic

herb gardens, expanses of recycled woods,

grey stone, greenery and tiered balconies adorn

the two four-storey buildings which house the

hotel and set the slick, contemporary tone.

Designed by Mount Fuji Architects to appear

more like a modern home than a place to rest

one’s head, fifteen guest rooms designed by Jamo

Associates - of differing size, layout and furnishings

- create a contrasting conceptual dialogue. Upcycled

materials overtly meet Japanese craftsmanship

throughout the property. Monochrome bathroom

tiling, organic Japanese toiletries and vintage-style

Roland radio speakers sit side-by-side with warm

custom-made wooden furniture (by cult Osaka

designer Truck), patchwork wall hangings and

contemporary Japanese artworks. The sprawling

Terrace Suite can sleep up to 14 people.

Quite apart from the guest accommodations, the

hotel’s epicentre is its super social restaurant cum

bar TRUNK (KITCHEN), which overlooks a terrace

and feels more like an elegant home than hotel. The

food combines elements of Japanese food culture

with many other diverse food cultures to create

multinational fare. Think Wagyu hamburgers and

Shibuya-made burrata. It you want to make a night of

it, book the chef’s table which overlooks the kitchen.

There is also a traditional local kushiyaki grilled

food outlet TRUNK (KUSHI), an event space and

onsite store. All-in-all, TRUNK is a welcome and

creative addition to Tokyo’s hotel scene.

https://trunk-hotel.com


NOSY ANKAO, MADAGASCAR

MIAVANA

Off the southeast coast of Africa, pretty much

everything about isolated Madagascar is

special. 5% of all known animal and plant

species on the planet are to be found here,

on the world’s fourth-largest island, but

getting to it all is quite literally a mission, not

least since Madagascar’s roads are dreadful.

However, for those who relish an adventure,

Madagascar is a one-of-a-kind adventure and

an utterly unique wildlife destination, where

the incredible diversity of landscapes and

abundance of endemic animals, flora and fauna

far outweigh the lack of creature comforts.

Since the unveiling of Miavana, situated

on the private island of Nosy Ankao off the

country’s northeastern shore (Madagascar

has 5,000km of coastline), travellers

and wannabe explorers have been able

to recover from their energetic daytime

adventures in super luxe surroundings.

Fringed by white sand beaches and sprawling

coral reefs, Miavana quite literally feels like a

haven of luxury at the end of the earth and is

undoubtedly one of the most exclusive beach

resorts in Africa. Set within the Loky Manambato

Protected Area, which is essentially a marine

park of pristine coral reefs, enables guests

to snorkel, dive, fish and even whale-watch

literally just off-shore. Two helicopters also ferry

guests to nearby islands and Miavana’s staff will

even set up a private sleep-out under the stars.

Guests are accommodated in 14 individual

solar-powered villas ranging in size from one

to three bedrooms. Mid-century-style furniture

fills their rooms and flowing soft turquoise

curtains line their floor-to-ceiling windows.

All villas face the sea on the western side of

the island and provide their occupants with

total privacy. Needless to say, all come with

shimmering private pools and round-the-clock

butler service, making staying at Miavana

the ultimate destination for the modern

adventurer and quite possibly the most exclusive

castaway escape on the continent.

https://timeandtideafrica.com/camp/miavana


SAN FRANCISCO, U.S.A.

PROPER HOTEL

Every cultured traveller knows that San Francisco is positively brimming with

charm. Countless cultural attractions, great shopping, superb restaurants and

happening bars - the city has it all. And it has a number of super deluxe hotels to

accommodate discerning travellers. But one thing San Fran was lacking, on the

hospitality front, was a hip ’n’ funky hotel - somewhere that trend setting travellers

and globetrotting hipsters could hang out, be creative and rest their artistic heads.

This all changed in late 2017, when the Golden City finally got the design-led

boutique lodgings it so desperately needed, and the Proper opened in a historic flatiron

building erected in 1904 by the city’s pioneer of lavish Beaux-Arts architecture, Albert

Pissison, located at Market Street between Seventh and Sixth streets. Today, the building

sits in the heart of San Francisco’s emerging Mid-Market neighbourhood, where

elite tech companies inhabiting abandoned landmarks and Michelin-starred chefs

opening upscale eateries are gradually regenerating this funky part of downtown.

Inspired by the historic building’s colourful past, renowned interior designer Kelly

Wearstler took a warm approach when kitting out its insides and filled it with a cheerful

pastiche of classic and modern styles. Deep colours, rich textures, classic design pieces

and vintage furniture positively clash with bold fabrics and mad wallpaper, making

walking into the Proper a unique assault on the visual senses and an Instagrammer’s

dream. Staff wear check suits with striped shirts and floral ties which project a fun,

fresh and fashionable aesthetic which sits well within the hotel’s urban setting, with

Union Square’s designer shops, theatres and SFMOMA all just five blocks away.

Upstairs, the Proper’s 131 guest rooms (including 11 suites) are considerately

furnished to provide a functional, Scandinavian-esque stay experience, laden with

enough cool touches to keep even the most tech savvy happy. TVs come with Google

Chromecast and all rooms boast wireless bluetooth-enabled Vifa speakers so guests

can stream their own entertainment. Bedside tablets facilitate room service, local

recommendations and reservations for meals and complimentary bicycles. Slick

bathrooms have walk-in rain showers and Aesop toiletries. Tucked into the awkward

spaces at the thinnest edge of the building are a dozen bunk rooms sold at lower rates.

The Proper’s three F&B venues are hung with local artworks by a variety of

emerging talent, connecting the venue to the pulse of the neighbourhood.

A flowing social space off the lobby, Villon’s exec chef Jason Franey

spent six years at Eleven Madison Park in NYC before heading to the west

coast, where his contemporary American menu draws inspiration from San

Francisco’s bountiful culinary culture and plentiful seasonal ingredients.

Thankfully hotel residents are given preference at the Proper’s rooftop bar,

Charmaine, which routinely has locals queueing down the block.

On street level, La Bande is the perfect place to people watch and observe the bustling city,

thanks to its double-height glass sides providing giant vistas down Market Street and McAllister.

Still the coolest hotel in town well over a year after it threw open its playful doors

and screamed its arrival, the Proper is so on trend it’s little wonder that it has become

a destination unto itself. Be sure to book well before you arrive in town.

www.properhotel.com/hotels/san-francisco


WIN A 4-NIGHT STAY AT TH

BRAND NEW 25HOURS HO

TERMINUS NORD IN PARIS

Located in Paris’ 10th arrondissement directly opposite Gare du Nord station, providing direct connections with

Eurostar, Thalys, TGV and RER trains, playful 25hours brand’s new 237-room Parisian property is a veritable homage

to the lively spirit of the exuberant district in which it is located.

A modern city hotel in the heart of the French capital, rooms are relaxing retreats from the city’s hustle and bustle,

and feature bold prints and colourful palettes inspired by Africa and Asia, together with personal objects referencing

the location’s diverse mix of cultures.

NENI restaurant with its delectable Israeli-Mediterranean cuisine, and Sape Bar with its large counter and inviting

leather armchairs, together form the pulsating heart of the property. Meanwhile, the ground-floor reception is

reminiscent of a French kiosk and is open 24/7 to guests and locals alike for anything they may need, from hiring

one of hotel’s Schindelhauer bicycles to borrowing a Mini for those who simply must have four wheels.

E

TEL

PRIZE DRAW

The lucky winner plus a friend will stay for four nights in a Large room at 25hours

Hotel Terminus Nord, including daily “rich” breakfasts (for two); welcome cocktails

at Sape Bar; one Balagan-style dinner for two at NENI restaurant and free wi-fi.

To enter this prize draw email your contact details to win@theculturedtraveller.com. The draw will take place after

31st May 2019 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used any time between 1st July – 31st

December 2019 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates apply - the winner will be informed. This prize is

not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Entrants will

be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list. Multiple entries will be disqualified and excluded.

www.25hours-hotels.com


HOLI

On the second day of the ancient annual Hindu festival of colours, people delight in literally covering each

other in water and a rainbow of paint powder to celebrate the triumph of good over evil

21 March 2019

PRAGUE

Nicholas Chrisostomou heads to PRAGUE to see

whether its art and gastronomy scenes measure

up to its mighty historical and architectural appeal

The golden city of one hundred spires is

undoubtedly one of Europe’s most beautiful and

visually charming destinations. Abundant with

architectural landmarks, that are testament

to its changing fortunes, numerous gems from the

Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods remain

entirely intact because the city was not rebuilt like most

European capitals during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Back then, Praha was only a provincial town in the

Austro-Hungarian Empire. And during the world wars,

the city largely escaped the terrible bombing that left

so many of its European peers ruined. The result is an

easily walkable metropolis, which thrills in some way

at every turn, especially when ambling around the

new and old towns which are rich in visual delights.

But, in this day and age, a cultured traveller is rarely

satisfied with gorgeous buildings and fabulous

museums, of which Prague has numerous. With

free time increasingly at a premium, when we

book a city break to get a change of scenery and a

snapshot of a different society, we need more than

some local cuisine, a museum or two and some

shopping to satisfy our cultural hunger. So I am

heading to the Czech capital to see whether its art

and foodie scenes have advanced with the times,

and deliver contemporary 21st century experiences.

Sharing its land borders with Germany, Austria, Poland

and Slovakia, the Czech Republic is located in the very

heart of Europe. Hence, Prague is easy to reach via

both ‘planes and trains. The central European train

network is both efficient and affordable, so grasping

the opportunity to avoid an airport, I take the train

from Vienna. Just four-hours and EUR 60 later, after

a super comfy direct ride in a business class carriage,

I arrive in Prague relaxed and raring to go. Munich,

Frankfurt and Warsaw are also just a few hours’ train

ride away, making Prague an excellent option for a

weekend city break, especially if you’re already in

Europe. If you fly-in to Vaclav Havel Airport, pre-book

your pick-up with www.prague-airport-transfers.

co.uk and you can be whisked into the city centre

in the back of a Mercedes E-Class for around EUR 28.

Prague is very much a tale of two cities depending

on which side of the river you stay. Bisected by

the Vltava River, which runs from north to south

and straight through its old town, I visited Prague

twice to get a decent feel for the place, staying for

three nights on each side of the river. If you have

four or five days to spend in Prague, a two-centre

visit will give you different yet complementary

experiences and is highly recommended.

Prague’s Mandarin Oriental is hands down the ►

city’s best hotel, not least for its service levels

and incredible concierge team. When you visit

a cultural capital like Prague, a good concierge is

invaluable. The Mandarin is located in Prague’s

oldest neighbourhood, Malá Strana (or Little Quarter),

which hugs the curves of the Vltava, in between

the river and the castle district of Hradčany.

By far the Czech capital’s most enchanting district,

when exiting the Mandarin you step directly into

cobbled streets and are instantly surrounded by

stunning architecture. If your budget stretches

to Mandarin prices, stay here for a couple of

nights and use the hotel as a base to explore

Malá Strana. Since this is the busiest part of the

city, routinely jam-packed with tourists, you

will need somewhere civilised to retreat to after

the crowds! Speaking of which, avoid Prague

in November and December - there are just too

many tourists. January or February are the best

months to visit and are the only months when

you might be able to stroll across Charles Bridge

rather than being carried across with the masses.

Yes, it really does get that bad in peak season.

Apart from going out for dinner somewhere fancy,

you can walk pretty much everywhere in Prague,

irrespective of which side of the river you rest your

head. If staying near the train station, Old Town

Square is 10 minutes away and Malá Strana another

quarter of an hour. Vice versa from the Mandarin.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL

When faced with a city with so many important

historical sights spread out over a vast area,

I suggest a hop-on-hop-off bus tour to get your

bearings, even more so if you will only be in the

Czech capital for a day or two. Do this before you

start taking photos (or posting on Instagram!)

because it’s good to actually “see” the place before

exploring up-close-and-personal on foot. Weather

permitting, the view from the top deck of a bus

can be pretty damn good and inexpensive!

A 24-hour hop-on-hop-off ticket is just EUR 22 and

the red route passes everything you need to see to

getorientated. (city-sightseeing.com/en/102/prague)

After you’ve found your feet, focus on getting

the major tourist sights out of the way because

they’re always the busiest and most stressful. ►


MALÁ STRANA

MALÁ STRANA

MALÁ STRANA

CHARLES BRIDGE

It will be plain sailing once you’ve seen Charles Bridge

and Prague Castle and you’ll be able to enjoy the city

more.

The famed gothic stone bridge that connects Malá

Strana with the Old Town is at the top of every

visitor’s must-see list, so try and visit Charles Bridge

early morning to avoid the crowds. It’s a pain,

but if you want to see the bridge in relative peace

and quiet, early is best. The bridge’s construction

was commissioned by Czech king and Holy

Roman Emperor Charles IV, begun in 1357 and

completed in 1402. Lined with statues of Catholic

saints, its architect was German-Bohemian Petr

Parléř, whose other triumphs include beautiful

St. Vitus Cathedral within the castle complex. It

is said that egg yolks were mixed into the mortar

to strengthen the bridge. Judging by the bridge’s

longevity and sturdiness the eggs seem to have

worked! By the way, the many vendors on the

bridge largely sell tourist tat and are best avoided.

If you head to Charles Bridge from the Old Town,

cross and then make your way up the hill towards

the castle complex which is a 15-20-minute walk.

The final ascent to the castle consists of 121 steps,

but opportunities to pause en route include bijou

shops serving small cups of delicious hot chocolate.


VOJAN GARDENS (VOJANOVY SADY)

CASTLE STEPS

At the top of the steps (and after the climb)

you’ll appreciate the spectacular view, and on

a clear day you’ll be able to take some great

shots before entering the castle complex.

From this viewpoint, as well as Prague spread out

beneath you, in the distance you will notice Žižkov’s

soaring communist TV tower, which at 216 metres

is the city’s tallest architectural landmark. Today

used as a meteorological observatory and tourist

attraction (there’s a restaurant and cafeteria inside),

it also contains a “one room hotel” where guests

paying EUR 500 can spend the night 70 metres

up. (www.towerpark.cz/en/hotel-one-room)

If it’s lunchtime or your tummy’s rumbling, drop

anchor at Kuchyň for some traditional, hearty Czech

food, served in a kitchen-style setting. Located within

the 1811 Salm Palace (part of the National Gallery)

on Hradcanske Square, Kuchyň is relaxed, familyfriendly

and boasts a lovely outside terrace during

the summer months. (https://kuchyn.ambi.cz)

Dating back to the 9th century, Prague’s is the

largest castle complex in the world, comprising

4 palaces, 4 churches, 5 halls, 4 towers and countless

gardens. Within the complex, 17 th century baroque

Wallenstein Palace houses the senate and Doctor

Lumbe’s Villa is the official home of the president. ►

Despite occupying an area of 70,000 square metres,

you don’t need more than a few hours to see the

best of the castle. A “Circuit B” ticket will give

you access to St. Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal

Palace, St. George’s Basilica and Golden Lane,

plus 15th century Daliborka Tower, at the eastern

end of the lane, which is shrouded in legend. This

is pretty much everything you need to see.

After leaving Prague Castle, take a leisurely walk down

the hill and pop into some of the city’s many boutiques

which specialise in handcrafted Bohemian crystal

glassware. One of the best is ARTĚL which has a store

close to Charles Bridge. Established for two decades and

curated by American designer Karen Feldman, ARTĚL

is the antithesis to the plethora of tacky gift shops her

beautiful store is surrounded by. (www.artelglass.com)

Once back in Malá Strana, make for Vojan Gardens

(Vojanovy sady), which were founded in the Middle

Ages as a monastery garden and is one of Prague’s

oldest parks. Whilst its entrance is not easy to find (look

for a tall archway in an old wall), once inside, preening

peacocks entertain. In the spring, the gardens come

alive with cherry blossom and flowering pear trees. (U

Lužického Seminaře). Close to the gardens, make a

pit stop at intimate Maly Vinograf wine bar for a glass

of rather palatable Czech vino. You will deserve it after

so much walking! (8 Míšeňská +420 604 705 730).

Also in Malá Strana, and visible from Charles Bridge

thanks to its massive green dome, be sure to peek

inside The Church of Saint Nicholas, which took

almost a century to complete by three generations

of the Dientzenhofer family. One of the most

impressive examples of Baroque architecture in

Prague, its intense interior features frescos by

Austrian-Czech painter János Lukács Kracker and a

4,000-pipe organ played by Mozart in the 18 th century.

At 80 metres tall, the distinctive fairytale-like twin black

towers of 14th century Church of Our Lady before Týn

can be seen across Prague, and mark the location of Old

Town Square, which is about 15 minutes on foot from

Charles Bridge, in the centre of town. One of Prague’s

most visited sites, it really is a must-see, even if only

to walk through and enjoy the multicoloured buildings

of every conceivable architectural style which line

the square’s perimeter. Particularly beautiful is 15th

century Renaissance pearl Maison à la Minute (The

House at the Minute) where the famous writer Franz

Kafka lived from 1889 to 1896. Covered in ornate

sgraffito decorations depicting Greek mythology,

the house is utterly unique in Old Town Square. Also

unique is Prague’s famous medieval astronomical clock

dating back to the early 1400s (Prague Orloj). ►


ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK

Mounted on the southern wall of Old Town Hall, the

hourly show, of the apostles spinning around the

clock chased by a statue of death, is entertaining,

especially late at night when fewer people are around.

If walking back to your hotel towards the main station,

to the east of Old Town Square, make a point of passing

the majestic 65-metre gothic Powder Tower (Prašná

brána) which was built in the 15th century as one of

city’s 13 gates. Modelled after the Old Town Bridge

Tower and studded with sculptures, its name comes

from its original use as a gunpowder store. From 1458

it was also the starting point of the processional path

that Bohemian queens and kings walked towards their

coronations at Prague Castle. As I trod the paths that

kings and queens once walked, I noticed that modern

European trends and customs appear to have been

embraced by the Czechs, and their capital is much

more than an open-air museum. From the little things,

like quality coffee and wine served in the correct

glassware, to an abundance of high-end designer

stores and contemporary art galleries, not to mention

a general sensitivity to the needs of the discerning

traveller, the Czech tourist industry appears acutely

switched-on to the needs of 21 st century globetrotters.

For me to find a decent bar in a city that I want

to re-visit is a feat, let alone a restaurant. ►


CHURCH OF OUR LADY

BEFORE TÝN

HOLEŠOVICE

Yet within just a few days in Prague, I visited at

least two restaurants which I would gladly fly

back to dine at again. Indeed, Prague’s culinary

scene boasts numerous restaurants which would

satisfy even the most discerning of gourmands.

Few areas of Prague illustrate the city’s burgeoning

creativity more than Holešovice, also known as Art

District 7. Akin to a bijou Berlin, the district is a lively,

cultural and creative neighbourhood, awash with

interesting architecture and positively brimming with

imaginative energy. The area is especially well known

for its lean towards modern and contemporary art.

Just a few metro stations from the centre of Prague

(take the red metro line C to Nádraží Holešovice)

and you can walk through an interwoven network

of galleries, theatres, cafés, bookshops, restaurants,

music clubs, boutiques, creative studios, independent

cinemas and hybrid cultural spaces. Not to mention

a number of uber-cool museums, the most important

of which, DOX, is unmissable for any true culture

vulture. Even just wandering around in Holešovice

is a treat, especially in Letná Park, since this part of

Prague is filled by an appealing mix of architectural

styles spanning everything from 19th century tenement

housing to modernist creations and grand period

buildings. Holešovice is very much Prague’s creative

future to complement its established historical ►


DOX

HOLEŠOVICE

DANCING HOUSE

past, and a clear and positive indicator of the

direction in which its artistic community is moving.

To end a day in Prague in arty and gastronomic style,

head to the seventh floor of Prague’s most famous

concession to contemporary architecture, the Dancing

House. The brainchild of Croatian-Czech architect

Vlado Milunić and often controversial Canadian

architect Frank Gehry and unveiled in 1992, its

curvaceous structure resembles a pair of dancers

and is formed by two central towers: Ginger is

made of glass and steel, while Fred has a concrete

body and a metal head. Ginger & Fred Restaurant

- at the top of this rare example of contemporary

architecture in a city which otherwise abounds

with classical buildings - bestows upon its

guests’ impressive views of the Vltava as well

as rather fine cuisine. (https://gfrest.cz/en)

For many visitors to Prague, taking a selfie

in front of the Dancing House has become as

important as walking across Charles Bridge.

So, there you have it, old and new Prague coming

together in art, architecture and gastronomy.

One of the most historical cities in the world

is visibly embracing the future, and, in doing

so, offering something for every type of traveller.


PRAGUE

STAY

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, PRAGUE

HOTEL INTERNATIONAL, PRAGUE

HOTEL CENTURY OLD TOWN

PRAGUE MGALLERY BY SOFITEL



Nestled between the Vltava and the castle

district of Hradčany, hugging the curves

of the river, Malá Strana is Prague’s oldest

neighbourhood and without a doubt the city’s

most alluring. Characterised by cobbled streets,

elegant palaces, terraced gardens and countless

hidden gems make this the Czech capital’s

most enchanting district.

Housed within a former Dominican monastery

which dates back to the 14th century, Prague’s

Mandarin Oriental is located at the very heart

of Malá Strana, almost hidden in plain sight

behind tall and thick stone walls. Charles

Bridge is five-minutes away, the castle complex

another 15 and Kampa Park is just around the

corner. You really can’t stay in a better location.

Once through the Mandarin’s main gates, at

the northeast corner of the hotel’s grounds (at

Harantova and Nebovidska streets), guests

enter a unique hospitality world unsurpassed by

any other five-star property in Prague. Offering

a peaceful retreat from the tourist crowds which

populate one of Prague’s busiest districts, the

Mandarin is unquestionably the city’s best

hospitality address, with deluxe facilities and

first-class service to match, as you’d expect

from one of the world’s premiere hotel brands.

Made-up of an eclectic mix of original Gothic,

Baroque and Renaissance styles across

several historic buildings, complemented by

contemporary yet unpretentious east-meetswest

décor, the hotel is both a visual feast and

an architectural delight. Lovingly preserved

religious features and authentic medieval

artefacts comfortably sit side-by-side with

Czech crystal chandeliers, Asian furnishings

and gorgeous fabrics.

The Mandarin’s 99 rooms and suites skilfully

blend the character of the monastery and the

hotel’s other high-ceilinged historic buildings

with a tasteful cream and beige colour palette,

with added splashes of Asian reds and blues.

All rooms feature wooden parquet floors, ►


premium bedding and oversized marble-lined

bathrooms with heated floors and walk-in

showers.

Whilst larger rooms boast more original features,

more space and more seating, every room at the

Mandarin is different and elegant in its own way.

And with less than 100 keys, an air of exclusivity

is palpable throughout the hotel. Kylie, Madonna

and the Dalai Lama are just some of the famous

names who have stayed here. Since the hotel

regularly runs at 100%, even during the

slightly quieter months just after Christmas,

it’s important to reserve well in advance.

The only thing missing from the hotel’s facilities

is possibly a pool - it literally has everything else,

including an excellent bar, well-equipped stateof-the-art

gym, a superb pan-Asian restaurant

(Spices) and an incredible multi award-winning

spa set within the ruins of a 14th century

convent which are preserved under a glass

floor. Be sure to make time for a massage when

staying at the Mandarin - the treatments are

truly first class.

Breakfast at the Mandarin is fit for a royal

and you will find literally everything on the

sprawling buffet, which is complemented by an

à la carte menu for Eggs Benedict, pancakes and

more. Coffees are made to order and delivered

to your breakfast table, along with a glass of

bubbles or a Bloody Mary if you’re recovering

from a big night.

It would be remiss not to mention the

Mandarin’s concierge team which must surely

be the best in the Czech Republic. All members

of Les Clefs D’Ors, the team is able to arrange

anything from ballet seats to train tickets and

restaurants reservations at the drop of the hat.

Boasting the best staff in the city and

characterful rooms in a chic, boutique hotel-like

environment, make staying at the Mandarin

Oriental Prague a sophisticated and elegant

experience you’re unlikely to forget.

www.mandarinoriental.com


HOTEL CENTURY OLD TOWN PRAGUE

MGALLERY BY SOFITEL

Hyatt’s chic and youthful contemporary hotel brand, Andaz, is known globally in

travelling circles for executing visually unique and captivating design themes, inspired

by its host cities, and ensuring that the guest experience is informal, social and funky

whilst delivering high levels of service and luxury.

Located a short taxi ride from Ginza, Andaz Tokyo occupies the top floors of sleek

Nihon Sekkei-designed Toranomon Hills, a modern complex of offices, shops and

residential apartments located in the Toranomon district of Minato ward. The National

Art Center, Tokyo Tower, Mori Art Museum and the beautiful t are all close by. Andaz

Tokyo is very much Toranomon Hills’s crowning jewel, occupying the highest part

of the complex and thus commanding arresting city vistas.

Hip, designer and luxurious hotels abound on our planet. However, it is rare that a

property executes well all three qualities at once. In the 21st century hotel world,

Andaz does this with little competition. Arriving at any Andaz hotel is like stepping into

a fantastical vision of the city you’re visiting, conceived as an act of creative brilliance

and delivered with tremendous attention to detail. Andaz Tokyo is no exception,

delivering an utterly unique Japanese hospitality experience in inimitable fashion.

On arrival, guests are whisked from street level directly to the 51st floor. Here a

celestial hospitality temple on a grand scale - Andaz Lounge - enriched by dramatic

installations and countless design details, is framed by some of the city’s best

panoramas. Floor-to-soaring-ceiling walnut walls, broken up by mirrors, intricate

lattice work and sliding panels, are the backbones of what is a stunning set of

main floor public spaces, tinted with generous accents of basalt and bronze dotted

throughout.

Andaz typically dispenses with the conventions of a traditional hotel lobby/reception,

instead furnishing its stylishly attired welcome hosts with hi-tech mini tablets, so that

check-in can happen anyplace convenient, from the arrival lounge to guest rooms.

In Japan, tradition and modernity work in tandem to produce a unique aesthetic based

on simplicity, geometric lines, natural materials and attention to detail, all the while

maintaining overall flow and harmony. The guest rooms at Andaz Tokyo are a perfect

interpretation of this quintessential Japanese design aesthetic. Coming out of the

elevators, one is greeted by hallways of floor-to-ceiling Japanese shoji-style white wall

panels, lit from below to create the sense of a catwalk-style runway. This minimalist

but entrancing look is pumped up a little inside the hotel’s 164 rooms including 8

suites.

Deep, dark and graexpanses of walnut wood and smooth white walls, offset by carpets

of matcha green tea, red leather chairs and headboards and shaggy rugs adding

dashes of colour and fun. Whilst ‘vintage Bond’ aptly sums up the décor of Andaz

Tokyo’s guest rooms, hands down their en suite bathrooms are the pièce de résistance.

Resembling bijou personal spas, these warm wooden enclaves pay homage to Japan’s

love of bathing by way of deep circular baths, accompanied by products that change

seasonally to showcase different combinations of herbs and florals

https://internationalprague.cz


HOTEL INTERNATIONAL, PRAGUE

Located in the Dejvice district of Prague, Hotel International stands tall

amongst the three to four-storey buildings in its predominantly residential

neighbourhood. A short hop of less than 10-minutes to Prague Castle

and only 20 minutes to Václav Havel airport make this landmark property

a convenient choice for business travellers and tourists alike.

Built in a socialist realism style in the early 1950s, during the communist era

in what was then Czechoslovakia, the building’s dramatic architecture mirrors

the grandiose, Stalinist Seven Sisters in Moscow, which combines Russian

Baroque and Gothic styles. The 1.5 metre red star that originally topped the

88-metre-tall central tower has been repainted in a shiny gold colour and

today serves as a reference point from many different viewpoints of Prague.

The top floors of the massive building’s central tower originally housed the country’s

Ministry of Defence, with visiting military dignitaries being hosted in the remaining floors.

Meanwhile, the two huge wings were reserved for the entourages of visiting generals.

After being decommissioned by the army in 1957, the hotel was for many years

the largest and most luxurious property in Czechoslovakia, and played host

to a number of local celebrities and international stars. The most noteworthy

guest must surely be Louis Armstrong, who, during his visit to Czechoslovakia

in the 1970s, performed in the now aptly named Armstrong Bar.

Since 2015, Hotel International has been part of Mozart Hotel

Group and today boasts 278 guest rooms, 14 meeting rooms and a

conference hall big enough to accommodate 1,200 delegates.

Entering the building through the hotel’s main doors, all eyes are

drawn towards an impressive staircase clad in red carpet, which leads

up to a breakfast restaurant and the spa and fitness area.

Throughout the building, original chandeliers and historic artworks are visible

everywhere, many of which were fashioned by leading Czech and Slovak artists and

craftsmen of the time, not least a tapestry made by celebrated Czech painter Cyril Bouda

which depicts the now torn down statue of Stalin at Letná. The large socialist-style

murals by the entrance to the hotel’s main breakfast room are also worth looking out for

The two top floors of the central tower feature an event space

and offer spectacular 360 views across Prague via floor to ceiling

windows and from a wrap-around balcony on the 15th floor.

All rooms at Hotel International are a minimum of 22 square metres, offer

individually controlled air-conditioning and the usual mod-cons.

Staying at Hotel International is akin to lodging at a Czech landmark,

being immersed in the nation’s history and walking through a veritable

museum after a day of sightseeing, en route to your room.

https://internationalprague.cz


PRAGUE

SEE

PRAGUE CASTLE

OLD TOWN SQUARE

CZECH CUBSIM AT THE HOUSE OF THE BLACK MADONNA

MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS IN PRAGUE

DOX MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

MALÁ STRANA


PRAGUE CASTLE

Resembling something from a fairy tale

and home to a bewildering array of cultural

sites and historic buildings, the largest

castle complex in the world is also the

most impressive, and is positioned above

Prague commanding spectacular views

across the city from its perch. An important

symbol of the Czech state for more than

a thousand years and a UNESCO World

Heritage site, Prague Castle was founded

by Prince Bořivoj in approximately 880

and became the seat of Czech rulers and

later presidents. Extending down to Malá

Strana, where several chateaux and palaces

are found, and made up of historical palaces,

offices, churches, fortification buildings and

gardens, the total castle complex covers

a sprawling 45 hectare site. Wallenstein

Palace alone, which is home to the Czech

Senate, includes 26 houses and six gardens.

Yet, despite its vast size, half a day is

plenty to get a good look at the best bits!

www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors

OLD TOWN SQUARE

The oldest and most significant square

in the historical centre of Prague, no visit

to the Czech capital is complete without

wondering through the vast plaza, which

should be done both during the day and

at night to fully appreciate the beauty

of its buildings. With something in Old

Town Square for everyone, art lovers,

historians and foodies alike, the plaza’s

history also depicts Prague’s gruesome

and glorious past. In addition to the Old

Town Hall and the Church of Our Lady

before Týn, the square is dominated by

the Baroque Church of St Nicholas, rococo

Kinský Palace, the Gothic House at the

Stone Bell and the Jan Hus memorial near

the northeastern corner. In the pavement

of the square, memorial stones mark the

1621 execution of 27 Czech lords and the

Prague Meridian 14°25’17“E, the latter

being used to tell the time between 1652

and 1918. The permanent hot dog sellers

on the fridges of the square actually peddle

a rather tasty and hearty late-night snack!


PRAGUE CASTLE

OLD TOWN SQUARE

THE HOUSE OF THE BLACK MADONNA

CZECH CUBSIM AT THE HOUSE

OF THE BLACK MADONNA

Originally built as a department store in the

early 1900s, this masterpiece of Czech cubist

architecture is an architectural landmark in

Prague and was designed by famed Czech

architect Josef Gočár. Located in the Old

Town between Celetná Street and Ovocný

trh. The building’s unusual name comes

from the 17th century sculpture which

formerly adorned an earlier Baroque building,

and was installed on the north-east corner

of the reconstructed edifice in the late 90s.

The venue is now home to a very good

permanent exhibition about Czech Cubism

on the second and third floors, curated

by the Museum of Decorative Arts, plus a

stunning café, Grand Café Orient, which reopened

in 2002 and boasts the only cubist

interior in the world. www.czkubismus.cz/en


Founded in 1885 and housed within a

beautiful neo-renaissance building erected

in 1897–1901, the museum’s rich collections

include decorative and applied arts and

design work ranging from late antiquity to

the present day, with a focus on European

objects, especially arts and crafts created

in the Bohemian lands. The impressive

permanent exhibitions offers visitors an

excursion into the history and development

of decorative arts: glass and ceramics,

graphic art and design, objects made in

metal, wood and other materials, jewellery,

clocks and watches, textiles, fashion, toys

and furniture. An integral part of the Museum

is the largest Czech library specialising in the

arts and related fields. Recently renovated,

a new third floor exhibition space has been

added, the museum’s relaxation garden is

now open to the public, the shop has been

revamped and a funky new restaurant

added. Don’t miss the glass exhibition

which is one of the most extensive in Europe

and reason enough to visit. www.upm.cz




An uber-cool multifunctional space for

presenting international and Czech art,

architecture and design, the DOX Centre

for Contemporary Art is housed within a

renovated complex of 19th century industrial

buildings in Prague’s arty Holešovice district,

and in 2010 was included on the Phaidon

Atlas of World Architecture as one of the

most interesting buildings of the decade.

Inspired by the shapes of the giant airships

that began to cruise the skies at the dawn

of the 20th century, in December 2016 the

museum added a colossal 42-metre steeland-wood

airship-like structure named

Gulliver, effectively suspended in mid-air.

Gulliver straddles two of DOX’s buildings and

is used for public talks and lectures at the

museum. Widely accepted to be a dynamic

cultural platform in Prague, and an arena for

confronting artistic approaches and trends,

in addition to exhibition spaces, DOX boasts

a charming café, good bookstore and a

well-stocked design store. www.dox.cz/enw

MALÁ STRANA

It’s unconceivable to visit Prague and not

walk through the city’s “Lesser Town” of

Malá Strana. Clustered around the foothills

of the castle complex, it is an intensely

picturesque area of ancient houses and

quaint side streets which hugs the meanders

of the Vltava River. It is unquestionably one

of the most enchanting districts of the Czech

capital and positively alive with cobblestone

squares, ancient churches, hidden gems

and enchanting sights. Spend some time

without a map just ambling around Malá

Strana, going nowhere in particular. In the

shadow of Prague Castle it’s pretty much

impossible to get lost, and exploring the

area without a fixed destination makes for

a hugely enjoyable and relaxing afternoon.

Away from the well tread tourist trails,

try to pit stop in a Czech restaurant to

refuel on typical local fare such as goulash

and duck. Nebozizek restaurant sits on

the side of Petrin Hill and boasts a killer

view of the castle and panoramic vistas

of the city. www.nebozizek.cz/cz/restaurant


DOX

MALÁ STRANA

INK Hotel Amsterdam - MGallery by Sofitel

Amsterdam – The Netherlands | Tel. +31 (0)20 627 59 00

inkhotelamsterdam@accor.com | ink-hotel-amsterdam.com

PRAGUE

TASTE

FIELD

SPICES RESTAURANT & BAR

DIVINIS

KUCHYŇ

NEXT DOOR BY IMPERIAL

CAFÉ MYŠÁK

HILLBILLY

SPICES RESTAURANT AND BAR

(MANDARIN ORIENTAL, PRAGUE)

FIELD

Landing its first Michelin star in 2016

just one year after opening, Field is

one of Prague’s finest restaurants,

skilfully marrying fine dining with

a relaxed environment and warm

unpretentious service, the latter being

something of a rarity in a fine-dining

establishment and truly one of the

restaurant’s star qualities. Even the

sommelier is warm and affable.

Located in an airy venue with

high ceilings on a quaint street in the

Jewish Quarter, Field’s dining room

is clean, refined and perfect for a

gastronomic dégustation experience.

Field is all about TV chef Radek

Kašpárek’s modern approach to Czech

cuisine. Fanatical about the quality

of the ingredients he uses and their

provenance, Kašpárek is drawn to

produce that hails from his native Czech

Republic, and uses it to create simple

dishes, with a Scandinavian touch,

that are not only delicious but also

thought provoking. The result is tasty

and well-presented fare, which, whilst

detailed, is not so over-the-top as to

be deemed pretentious. And herein lies

Kašpárek’s skill - fine-dining that is

beautiful to look at, a delight to eat and

doesn’t leave you hungry. The Cultured

Traveller wishes that more Michelinstarred

restaurants were like Field.

www.fieldrestaurant.cz


SPICES RESTAURANT & BAR

Set within Prague’s best hotel in the

heart of Malá Strana, Renaissancestyle

vaulted ceilings, softly backlit dark

wood panelling and subtle decorative

Chinoiserie items set the upscale tone in

highly recommended Spices Restaurant

& Bar at the Mandarin Oriental.

Offering a carefully crafted culinary

journey through Asia, executive chef

Stephen Senewiratne’s extensive

pan-Asian menu is divided into three

regions - Northeast, Southeast and

Southwest - and is complemented

by a separate sushi menu.

Only the freshest produce, much

of it sourced from local Czech

farmers, is used to produce the

tasty and beautifully-presented

food, which is served family-style

in the middle of the table.

For a special occasion, book the

beautiful, atmospheric 14th century

Dom Pérignon P2 Cellar underneath the

restaurant, and dine in privacy and style.

After dinner, adjourn to adjacent

Spices’ bar, which serves a mix

of hand-crafted classic and

contemporary cocktails, alongside

a good selection of fine wines, local

beers and non-alcoholic drinks. It’s

the perfect place for a nightcap.



DIVINIS

Tucked away on a side street, the

star of the show at this intimate

restaurant serving superb rustic

Northern Italian cuisine and seasonal

dishes cooked with flair, is the

top-light wine selection from Italian

growers and other global vineyards.

Run with immense passion and

boasting a distinctly warm and friendly

feel, Divinis is perfect for an intimate

meal for two, a family occasion or a

simple gathering with friends to enjoy

the excellent food and fantastic vinos.

The menu focused on the use

of high-quality ingredients and

seasonal produce, much of which is

freshly imported ingredients from the

Mediterranean. The food at Divinis

is utterly delicious and obviously

made with love. Glasses of premium

Barolo are served from magnums.

The deserts are irresistible.

A six-course tasting menu showcases

the very best seasonal ingredients

paired with Italian fine wines.

If it’s on the menu, be sure to order

the black truffle risotto - your taste

buds will be transported to gastronomic

heaven with the first fork-full.

www.divinis.cz


KUCHYŇ

Set within the stone walls and vaulted

ceilings of Salmovský Palace on

Hradcanske Square, directly opposite

the main entrance to Prague Castle,

Kuchyň looks out to one of the

views that bring millions of visitors

to the Czech capital every year.

Inside, the menu-less 70-seat

restaurant is based around a relaxed,

open kitchen concept, with diners

encouraged to engage their senses and

choose what they eat by trusting their

guts. Head chef Marek Janouch and his

team prepare traditional Czech dishes

inspired by aristocratic cuisine. Guests

lift the lids of the pots on the stove to

see what hearty foods are cooking.

Since everything cooking is scrumptious

it’s not that easy to decide what to eat.

When The Cultured Traveller visited

Kuchyň, rabbit in mustard sauce,

paprika chicken, pork schnitzel, beef in

red wine, goulash and a Serbian pork

cutlet with seasonal vegetables were

on the stove. Sides included two kinds

of dumplings, potato cakes and roasted

potatoes. Our only complaint was the

lack of veggie sides, but Czech cuisine

is not renowned for a prevalence of

veggies! Visit Kuchyň hungry because

you will want to eat everything!

https://kuchyn.ambi.cz/en


NEXT DOOR BY IMPERIAL

Opened less than a year ago, celebrity

chef Zdeňek Pohlreich’s upscale

yet unpretentious restaurant has

already become a firm favourite with

discerning Czechs. Located on the

ground floor of The Cosmopolitan

Hotel about 10 minutes-walk from

Old Town Square, Next Door offers

a first-class dining experience in a

comfortable atmosphere, complete

with attentive and personal service.

The juxtaposition of classic Parisian

bistro-style food and modern Czech

regional cuisine is executed well and

beautifully presented in a pair of

interconnected dining rooms presided

over by a huge open-fronted kitchen.

The slightly flamboyant interior

design aesthetic, of intricate crown

mouldings, baby angel sculptures

and chandeliers hanging from

high ceilings painted with original

ceiling frescos dating back to

1889, courtesy of renowned Italian

designer Luciano Belcapo, only

add to the dining experience.

Don’t miss the sautéed rabbit kidneys

in a mustard sauce with Savoy cabbage.

And the roasted foie gras with green

peas, mushrooms and duck black

pudding. Both dishes are exceptional.

Open all day every day from 06.30

- 23.00, book a table by the kitchen

for a front row eating experience.

www.next-door.cz/en


HILLBILLY

This hip, laid-back burger joint, located

in the heart of trendy Holešovice in the

middle of a predominantly residential

area, has won multiple awards for its

burgers. The menu runs the gamut from

a classic Hillbilly burger and Chill-billy

burger to a Joe‘s goat burger, Roquefort

Johny burger and a moreish “Marvin’s

pulled pork sandwich”. All are furnished

with a spicier kick than is usual in the

Czech Republic. The cheddar is real,

the nachos are piled high and the

coleslaw recipe is bang on point, all

of which may seem natural to visitors,

but is surprisingly unusual in Prague!

The something-for-everyone menu

includes a very good veggie burger and

decent beverages beyond the normal

beer and wine typical of casual pubs –

think craft cider, homemade lemonade

and Aperol Spritz. In the summer, the

bijou patio out back offers a casual al

fresco dining option. https://hillbilly.cz


CAFÉ MYŠÁK

Very close to Wenceslas Square, in 1911

Frantisek Myšák opened his pastry

shop in Vodičkova Street. He hired the

best architects to design the shop,

emphasised the use of only high-quality

ingredients is everything he made

and took great care of his employees.

Creating cakes for well-known

personalities from the world of politics,

culture and sports, Myšák even made a

cake for the first Czech president, Tomáš

Garrigue Masaryk, on the occasion of

his 80th birthday. When the Rondo-

Cubist building that housed Myšák’s

original shop collapsed in 2006, the

structure was rebuilt, the café and shop

were completely reconstructed, and

Café Myšák reopened its famous doors.

Today, the original marble staircase and

large-scale period photos of the original

shop provide an enchanting backdrop

for afternoon tea, a cheeky piece of

cake or a cappuccino. The coffee here

is first rate. The Caramel Cup also

makes a rather tasty afternoon treat!

www.mysak.ambi.cz/en

PRAGUE

SIP

GIN & TONIC CLUB

MALÝ VINOGRAF

BLACK ANGELS

DANDY

HEMINGWAY BAR

LUCERNA MUSIC BAR

GIN & TONIC CLUB

GIN & TONIC CLUB

The Cultured Traveller’s favourite bar in

Prague, this sprawling, hyper-focused

basement venue is dedicated to serving

inventive variations of the trusty G&T. With

literally hundreds upon hundreds of different

gins on offer, hailing from all corners of

the globe, the proprietors of this colourful

and vibrant lounge, bar and terrace have

invested a great deal of time and energy

on the details, which combine to make this

venue standout. There’s no queuing for your

G&T here, good god no! Guests are seated

at reserved, high-top tables for their drinks

to be served to them in a civilised fashion.

Numerous concoctions include home-grown

herbs and spices, unexpected fruit infusions

and interesting flavour combinations. The

massive array of gins is complemented

by a range of tonics which can drastically

change the character of a drink. A five G&T

tasting menu is available and tapas and

larger dishes are available for those who

are peckish. One drink here can easily turn

into three, so visit the Gin & Tonic Club after

dinner and get comfy. www.gintonicclub.com

MALÝ VINOGRAF

Whilst Prague isn’t the usual first stop on

a wine aficionado’s go-to list, Vinograf

might persuade you otherwise. A group of

three wine bars in the Czech capital, each

is stocked with upwards of 300 wines. The

flagship bar in Senovážné Square offers

more than 700 vintages. Of Vinograf’s three

locations in Prague, The Cultured Traveller

recommends the cosy Malá Strana shop on

Míšeská Street, five minutes-walk from

the Mandarin Oriental and round the corner

from Charles Bridge. An intimate, locallyfocused

wine shop with sommelier-led

tastings and food pairings, it’s the perfect

place to pit-stop and have a few glasses of

vino with some cheese and charcuterie to

break-up a day of sightseeing. Whatever you

drink, Malý Vinograf’s knowledgeable staff

will furnish you with all kinds of information

about the wine you have selected and

what to drink next! 8 Míšeňská 8, Praha 1.

+420 604 705 730 www.vinograf.cz


MALÝ VINOGRAF

GIN & TONIC CLUB

MALÝ VINOGRAF

BLACK ANGELS

DANDY

BLACK ANGELS

BLACK ANGELS

Located slap bang in the middle of the city,

two floors underneath the U Prince Hotel in

Old Town Square, Black Angels is a hidden

gem of a bar serving an excellent range of

themed cocktails with panache. Reminiscent

of an prohibition era speakeasy, the grand

stone-vaulted gothic-meets-glamour space,

complete with the statue of a black angel

perched atop the bar, is atmospheric, warm

and inviting. The bartenders have oft been

awarded for their classic yet creative drinks.

Many of the bar’s best cocktails hail from the

American golden age, and include classics

like the Manhattan, the Mary Pickford, the

Sgropinno, the Sazerac and the Sidecar.

If wine is your poison, you can choose

from a wide range of high-quality French,

Italian, Spanish, Chilean and Argentinean

vintages. Service is slick and the whole

place exudes an air of hidden yet louche

sophistication. www.blackangelsbar.com

DANDY

With a name that literally translates to the

word “vineyards” in English, Vinohrady

is a sleek, hip and international district of

the Czech capital, and was once a wine

hot spot before it became incorporated

into the metropolis of Prague. A charming,

European neighbourhood with a distinctly

artsy international side makes Vinohrady

the ideal location for Dandy, a fun, hip

and stylish gay bar open to everyone. Very

good hand-crafted cocktails, premium

spirits, signature drinks, Japanese whisky, a

superb selection of wines by-the-glass and

Bernard beer are served by a friendly and

fun team in a stylish, comfortable, laid-back

lounge-style setting. A small selection of

open-faced sandwiches is also available.

The music at Dandy is very good and the

tempo audibly picks up after midnight.

Visit Dandy after dinner and plan to stay

for more than one. http://dandyprague.com

DANDY


HEMINGWAY BAR

HEMINGWAY BAR

Almost certainly the most popular bar

in Prague, it’s very difficult to get into

Hemingway’s after 9pm which is when the

bar stops taking reservations. An intimate

venue, you won’t be able to kick-back and

relax here, rather sip on a beautifully handcrafted

cocktail (or two) and then move

on to somewhere else. Hemingway’s is all

about the spirits and mixing them. It’s not a

loud venue. Laptops are not allowed. Chairs

cannot be moved. Ordering of drinks for

other guests is prohibited unless approved

by the staff. And so on. Whilst such rules

might be a little annoying to some, they do

allow for the serious, unadulterated business

of drink consumption and appreciation.

Naturally, Hemingway’s pays homage to

the great man with particular attention to

absinthe, champagne and, of course, rum,

the latter boasting its own list of more than

200 varieties. Visit Hemingway’s for the

cocktails, which are very good indeed. Bring

your own party. www.hemingwaybar.cz/bar-praha

LUCERNA MUSIC BAR

One of the largest and most popular music

clubs in Prague, and a veritable institution

to many Czech people, Lucerna can be a big

night out or just a few drinks, depending

on your mood and the act. Located right

next to Wenceslas Square in a multipurpose

complex dating back to the beginning of

20th century, stars such as Earth, Wind &

Fire, Maceo Parker, Candy Dulfer, Jungle

Funk and the Brand New Heavies, amongst

others, have all performed at Lucerna,

which is also famous for its 80s and 90s

dance parties every Friday and Saturday

nights. Jazz and swing artists perform

at Lucerna during the annual Prague

International Jazz Festival and annual

AghaRTA Prague Jazz Festival. Lucerna

has also provided a springboard to many

up-and-coming and newly-formed bands,

not only from the Czech Republic but also

from around the world. www.musicbar.cz/en


LUCERNA MUSIC BAR

HEMINGWAY BAR

LUCERNA MUSIC BAR

PRAGUE

SPEND

DENISA NOVÁ

KUBISTA

MALÍSKÁ

HARDDECORE

CIHELNA CONCEPT STORE

GLASSIMO

KUBISTA

DENISA NOVÁ

DENISA NOVÁ

Named Clothing Designer of the Year

by CDG6 (Ceny Czech Grand Design),

Denisa Nová has been in the business

for two decades this year and focuses on

womenswear, including ladies’ fashion

accessories and footwear, all of which is

marketed under the brand name of DNB

at her exclusive boutiques in Prague and

Brno (the second largest city in the Czech

Republic). Known throughout Czech fashion

circles for the simplicity and minimalism

of her collections, Nová regularly shows

at Mercedes-Benz Prague Fashion Week

in March, when the Czech capital comes

alive with creativity and colour. Nová’s

clothes are detailed, wearable and coveted.

Shop for Denisa Nová at her Prague store

which is open every day apart from Sunday.

www.denisanova.cz/en

KUBISTA

Located in the center of Prague a stone’s

throw from Old Town Square, you will find

Kubista on the ground floor of the House at

the Black Madonna which is dedicated to

the Art Deco and Cubists periods. The store

specialises in glassware, jewellery, ceramics,

décor pieces, pictures, paintings and

furniture, and showcases a wide selection of

pieces by many well-known Czech artists,

including Bohumil Kubišta, Vaclav Spala

and Czech-Czechoslovak sculptor Otto

Gutfreund, who, after studying art in Prague

and Paris, became known in the early 1900s

for his sculptures in a distinctly cubist style.

As well as reproductions, Kubista stocks a

number of original pieces for the serious

collector. Beautifully illustrated books about

the Art Deco movement and Czech Cubism

are also on sale and make wonderful gifts for

interior design buffs! www.kubista.cz


KUBISTA

DENISA NOVÁ

DENISA NOVÁ


KUBISTA

MALÍSKÁ

HARD-DE-CORE

MALÍSKÁ

MALÍSKÁ

Czech-born designer Lenka Sárová Malíská’s

rustic porcelain tableware with a modern

design edge is a perfect symbolic melding of

all that’s whimsical and folk-inspired about

the Czech Republic, yet, at the same time,

also smartly metropolitan and influenced

by the city of Prague. Porcelain teapots and

mugs are top sellers, but salt and pepper

shakers, plates, bowls, cups and saucers,

all adorned with a myriad of motifs from

kittens and dogs to trees and cottages, also

make wondeful gifts which are pretty yet

functional. Malíská also produces a line of

china brooches, sporting different patterns

and colourways, making each piece unique.

available at a variety of design-led stores

throughout Prague, including these three

www.pourpour.cz www.futurista.cz www.parazit.cz

HARD-DE-CORE

The past few years have seen an emergence

of Czech fashion designers producing

highly-original garments that are both

playful and interesting. One such designer is

Josefina Bakošová, who is also an illustrator

and designs film and theatre costumes.

Her co-founded boutique, workshop and

gallery, Harddecore, which is centrally

located on Senovážné námstí (Hay Market

Square), has become a popular destination

for local fashionistas and culture vultures.

Harddecore retails a wide range of clothing,

jewellery and interior accessories, as well

as Bakošová’s eponymous line of elegant,

casual and comfortable womenswear

made from high-quality materials and cut

unconventionally yet simply. Such is the

popularity of Bakošová’s designs, that her

clothing is worn by award-winning Czech

actress Lenka Krobotová, and documentarist

and Petra Nesvailová has become the face of

the brand. www.harddecore.cz

HARD-DE-CORE




Located in a 18th century former brick

factory, on a well-trodden tourist path close

to the river, not far from Charles Bridge and

Prague Castle, Cihelna champions the best

Czech design talent, purposefully eschewing

the kitschy knick-knacks traditionally found

in its neighbourhood’s tacky souvenir shops.

Curated by illustrator and design producer

Silvie Lubnová, the sophisticated collection

includes tableware by high-tech glass factory

Bomma, colourful pieces by ceramicist Milan

Peka and standout offerings from a host of

young Czech jewellers from Adéla Fejtková to

Blueberries and Zorya. Displayed on custommade

monumental wood tables by Studio

Dechem, over which a large chandelier

by artist Rony Plesl hangs, the elegant

space also doubles-up as a gallery with

regular exhibitions. www.cihelnaprague.com

GLASSIMO

Specialising in Czech glass and porcelain

from the studios of renowned artists as

well as up-and-coming young designers,

Glassimo was founded in 2015 to showcase

the beauty of Bohemian designer glass

and is located in the center of the city at 3

Elišky Krásnohorské. Much of what is on

display at Glassimo are unique, one-off

pieces, mouth-blown and hand crafted

by some of the finest Czech glassmakers.

Browse glass works by Boek Šípek, Jií

Painek and Kateina Smolíková; porcelain

by Daniel Pirš and items by BOMMA - one

of the most modern European producers

of drinking glassware. Every item is sold

with a certificate of authenticity and can be

shipped anywhere on the planet - using a

specialist freight company experienced in

the safe transportation of glass and porcelain

- so you need not carry your expensive

purchases on a plane! www.glassimo.eu


GLASSIMO



GLASSIMO

DUBAI WORLD CUP

The planet’s richest annual horse race, which attracts the cream of Dubai society as well as international glitterati,

sees many millions of Dollars presented to the winners of the day’s races which continue well into the evening

30 March 2019

Duomo Presidential Suite

Hotel Savoy, Florence

Nicholas Chrisostomou travels to Tuscany to

explore Florence from the divine surroundings

of the city’s most fabulous accommodation,

the DUOMO PRESIDENTIAL SUITE at Hotel Savoy

I

would never normally open an article with car talk, but there’s nothing like a slick airport

pick-up in a fancy motor to snap one out of a state of overtiredness and awaken the senses.

A 3.30 wake-up call and 6am flight had rendered me zombie-like upon landing at Bologna

airport. But all that changed when a gleaming, dark blue Maserati Quattroporte glided into

view, to whisk me the 100 kilometres to Firenze. Better still, my driver Bruno was Florentine

through and through, having been born and lived his entire life in the city. A five-star stay

experience is all about the details, and Hotel Savoy nailed it from the very start. As we almost

flew down the autostrade at 150kmph and I luxuriated in the scent of expensive Italian leather,

it was obvious that my Florentine weekend had already begun at a pace and in inimitable style.

Glimpsing for the very first time, a city that you are genuinely excited to be visiting, is a special

moment. It’s a feeling that I rarely experience these days, having travelled the world and

been lucky enough to see so much of it. But crossing the river Arno in the back of a Maserati,

and catching sight of the Duomo, gave me such goose bumps, that any tiredness I had felt

was instantly replaced by anticipation, akin to being plugged into Italy’s national grid. As I

chatted with Bruno, he deftly weaved his expensive charge down narrow back streets, past the

magnificent Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore and between hordes of people, until we were

in front of our destination.

An imposing, long and narrow 19 th century rectangular building positioned in the heart of

Firenze, Hotel Savoy has been welcoming travellers for more than a century, and is renowned

for being one of the finest places in the city to rest one’s head. So far as its location is

concerned, the Savoy simply cannot be beaten. The hotel takes pride of place in the very

middle of everything, on Piazza della Repubblica. The Duomo is mere seconds to the right

and the Ponte Vecchio a few minutes’ walk to the left. The Uffizi and Palazzo Vecchio are five

minutes away.

The piazza, with its tacky carousel and rotating street musicians, is not the draw here.

The hotel’s proximity to the Duomo is. Some older European city hotels are often sited close

to landmark monuments, because they were erected before the idea of marketing the view ►


was a concept. The Savoy is one of these, and consequently boasts a number of rooms with

an incredible view that set it apart from the crowd. When visiting Florence there’s no more

desirable view out of one’s bedroom window than the Duomo, especially for a Florentine

newbie.

The Savoy’s first-time collaboration between Rocco Forte Hotels’ design director Olga Polizzi

(also Sir Rocco’s younger sister) and Laudemia Pucci, daughter of the legendary designer

Emilio, is immediately evident upon entering the hotel’s lobby, where brightly pattered

fabric-covered armchairs make a sassy yet sophisticated statement against the sleek white

paintwork and marble floors. It’s a wonderfully executed lobby and although noticeably

devoid of a lounge, it does the job admirably. Beyond the lobby the feel is more classic, and a

more traditional Italian elegance prevails, accented by the liberal use of fine fabrics and soft

furnishings. My check-in is warm and swift and I’m in the lift in minutes. I do like a hotel

where you don’t need a key-card to get to your floor, since too much tech can so easily destroy

an otherwise fabulous arrival experience!

Exquisite fabrics and plush soft furnishings are a hallmark of the Savoy’s Duomo Presidential

Suite, which was unveiled in 2018 as part of a complete remodelling of the hotel to reduce the

number of keys to 80 and create more than thirty spacious and predominantly Italian suites.

Occupying its own wing on the fourth floor of the hotel and flooded with natural light thanks

to the generous fenestration of the building’s façade, the Duomo Presidential Suite is the

Savoy’s top room category and was to be my sumptuous home-away-from-home for the

weekend.

A large, airy dual-aspect lounge boasting incredible views of Brunelleschi’s iconic cupola,

Giotto’s beautiful bell tower and the façade of Florence’s signature monument; a separate

dining room with its own balcony; a chic guest cloakroom; a spacious master bedroom and

bath with large walk-in closet, and a second bedroom with its own en-suite, together make

the Duomo Presidential Suite a veritable super-luxe self-contained serviced apartment in the

very center of the Italian Renaissance world. ►


Dominated by a huge mirrored low-slung square table, laden with coffee table books,

candelabra and other gorgeous items, from one of the sofas in the lounge it was possible to

laze and gaze at the Duomo, which I did, many times, with a glass of Gavi in close proximity.

Yet despite the room’s immense size, wooden parquet floors, an abundance of cushions and

an array of tasteful objets d’art, books and artwork in the form of sculptures, contemporary

Baroque-style busts, paintings and prints - not to mention scented fresh flowers subtly

positioned throughout - combined to render the space warm, welcoming and entirely usable.

Despite being in the very center of Florence, just four storeys above its teeming streets,

The Cultured Traveller felt as though he were gliding above the city, since the height somehow

mitigated the noise of the piazza.

An oversized fabric-covered headboard dominated in the perfectly proportioned master

bedroom, which was also dual-aspect thanks to three separate balconies, and furnished

with a sofa and armchair, desk and huge bed adorned with just the right number of pillows.

LONG BAR

Again, divine fabrics prevailed throughout, and the original wooden window shutters were

supplemented by heavy, flowing silk curtains to ensure truly restful slumber.

I intended to make the most of my 72-hours in the suite, so no sooner had my luggage been

delivered that I was unpacking and getting comfortable in my lavish surroundings. I even

made the acquaintance of an elegant, life-size ceramic hunting dog guarding the entrance.

After a jam-packed first day of visiting Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze and the Museum

of the Opera del Duomo, having a tour of Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore and climbing

463 steps to the top of Brunelleschi’s cupola, it was a delight to return to the turquoise

accented Duomo Suite to relax and recharge in such elegant comfort. As one would expect

of a hotel with the Savoy’s pedigree, room service was prompt, housekeeping efficient and

literally nothing was too much trouble for the friendly front desk team. Whilst I would have

been happy to meet (and thank) the housekeeping team, we didn’t run into them once

during the weekend, despite darting in and out of the hotel like yo-yos. ►


The Savoy is located so close to all that matters in Florence, that we could literally walk

everywhere and need never worry about whether our ‘phones had enough juice. Staying

in such a central location really changes the dynamic when visiting a city like Florence,

for when we tired of the crowds (and there are a lot of people, everywhere, in Florence)

we escaped the mêlée and retreated to our five-star sanctuary at the drop of a hat.

As the weekend progressed, some of the Savoy’s other star qualities soon became

apparent, quite apart from the exceptional lodgings. Not least, the hotel’s superb concierge

team, which in fact started organising places to go and sights to see well before my arrival

in Italy. One can often rate a hotel well before one’s arrival, based on the promptness

of email ommunication and the willingness of a concierge team to go that extra mile.

The Savoy’s concierge team was second to none, before and throughout my stay,

to the point that I actually missed the chaps after checking-out.

If money is no object, there is no better place to stay in Florence than the Savoy’s Duomo

Presidential Suite. Striking a flawless balance between luxury and informality, the suite’s

perfect proportions and contemporary Italian décor provide an incomparable urban haven

from Firenze’s busy streets. If your budget doesn’t stretch to the best in the house, there

are plenty of other rooms and suites at the Savoy which also boast the same unrivalled

view of the Duomo. Either way, you’ll be gazing at one of the world’s architectural marvels

and staying at Florence’s finest hospitality address.

Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in the Duomo Presidential Suite at Hotel Savoy in

February 2019. The average nightly rate for the suite is EUR 6,600 (March 2019),

EUR 7,700 (April 2019) and EUR 9,075 (May 2019) including breakfast.

www.roccofortehotels.com


NAGHOL LAND DIVING

A brave man of the Sa tribe on Pentecost Island hurtles towards the ground from a wooden tower, with nothing

more than tree vines tied around his ankles and no safety equipment, during an ancient, annual ritual

Every Saturday between April and June 2019

ALEX BENASULI EMBRACES REFINED

JAPANESE-STYLE OMOTENASHI

HOSPITALITY IN ANA’S 777 FIRST CLASS

For my first trip ever to Japan, I tapped

into a decade-long accumulation of

Star Alliance miles and booked a firstclass

seat on award winning All Nippon

Airways (ANA). A maiden voyage to Japan would

surely be enhanced if I immersed myself in the

local culture and aesthetic sensibility from the

first moment, which meant it had to be ANA.

For years, global travellers have lamented about

the decline in air travel glamour. Long gone are

the days when commercial flying feels exclusive

or sophisticated. Increasingly, even business

class seems to be joining economy in becoming

commoditised and anodyne. Yet, flying in first still

has cachet and elicits excitement even amongst

the most jaded of travellers. While ANA’s premium

product is not at the same level as Emirates and

Singapore Airlines, it is the most stylish way to fly

direct to Japan from North America and Europe.

ANA, along with all other Star Alliance carriers,

depart from Heathrow’s Terminal 2. Also known as

the Queen Elizabeth II Terminal, it is the newest and

arguably the best of the airport’s terminals. One of

the many positive attributes to Terminal 2, is that

due to its modern design and cavernous proportions,

it hardly ever feels crowded, even at busier times.

ANA’s first class check-in is quite literally a

breeze. With two dedicated counters for eight

first class seats, there’s no wait and hardly any

queueing going through priority security.

Most transcontinental flights depart from

Terminal 2’s satellite B concourse which can be

a good fifteen-minute walk. Personally, I like

the opportunity to stretch my legs and get some

mild exercise before a long flight, but ANA’s

first class passengers are provided with electric

buggy transfers. Nothing spells indulgence more

than whooshing past bedraggled passengers

en route to a far-away departure gate!

ANA premium passengers have access to Singapore

Airlines’ Silver Kris Lounge within which there

is a separate first-class space with à la carte f&b

offerings, a cocktail bar and shower rooms. In the

hours leading up to ANA’s 7pm departure to Tokyo,

no other flights use the lounge making it feel private

and quiet. For those who like a little more action in

their lounge experience, ANA’s first class passengers

can also use United Airlines’ Polaris lounge which

will re-open middle of this year. From both lounges

the walk to the boarding gate is very short, so the

transition from sipping champagne in the lounge

to being received on board takes mere minutes.

The flight attendants, elegant attired in tailored suits,

greet passengers with a customary deep bow and ►


warm konichiwa (Japanese for ‘hello’). It is at this

moment that I know the experience will be special.

Having never flown ANA before, I was

unaccustomed to the airline’s design ethos. The

interior of the first-class cabin is very bright and

modern, with clean lines and almost a spartan

feel. White and off-whites dominate, with bright

blue carpets and seating adding splashes of

colour and generous light wood paneling adding

warmth. This more minimalist aesthetic is in

keeping with contemporary Japanese style, that

eschews clutter and encourages harmony via

simplicity rather than more showy interpretations

of luxury found in other parts of the globe.

First class on an ANA 777-300 ER is configured as

two seats in the centre and one at each window,

across the two aisles, providing direct aisle

access for all. Given that there are only two rows

in first, the cabin feels intimate. As I settled into

window seat 1A, I knew immediately that I would

be in total comfort for the next eleven hours.

ANA refers to its best seats as “First Squares”.

Although not stand-alone suites in the most lavish

sense, they are practically perfect self-contained

individual worlds. The square cabins are lined in

blond wood and have multiple compartments that

house everything from hand luggage to wallets

and eye glasses, in a way that makes perfect sense.

Entertainment consoles and noise-cancelling

headphones disappear seamlessly behind panels

to create clean lines everywhere. The large, blue

adjustable dining tray is the ideal size, and

moves around with ease to allow for getting in

and out of the seat. And white paneling broken

up with horizontal detailing on outside of each

cabin creates the illusion of Japanese shoji style

sliding doors, behind which cleverly designed

wardrobe space accommodates coats and suits.

After take-off, flight attendants change into

soft pink and blue modern interpretations of

kimonos. This look is fun, evokes Kawaii (the

Japanese culture of youthful cuteness) and

firmly positions ANA as a modern, forwardlooking

carrier. Although, if truth be told, the

part of ANA’s first class experience I was most

looking forward to was the dinner service!

Presented by ANA’s “Connoisseurs”, the

airline’s first class dining and drinks offering is

truly refined and unique. There is whole menu

dedicated to sake, Japanese whiskey, shochu and

plum wines, all from award-winning and premium

distillers. Ask to see the bottles just to marvel

at their beautiful labels. ANA has repeatedly won

awards for its wine and champagne selection,

which is curated by a panel of the planet’s leading

sommeliers, and has been serving Krug since ►


its inaugural flight in 1986. Charles Heidsieck

Brut Millésimé 2006 is also poured in first.

Unless you dislike Japanese cuisine, I strongly

recommend that you indulge in ANA’s original

Japanese feast. This multi-course haute cuisine

experience, known as kaiseki, embodies omotenashi

more than almost any other element of Japanese

service. Meticulously prepared and arranged small

dishes are fashioned from only the freshest seasonal

ingredients, rolled out in a programmed succession

of courses. Served on a series of lacquered trays

in individual traditional ceramic dishes - with

every piece of food carefully arranged with its

corresponding garnish - ANA’s first class kaiseki

meal is second to none. The flavours are equally

sublime. Flight attendants patiently explain the

courses and the seasonality of certain items with

a sense of pride. On my flight there was some

excitement that kabosu were onboard. A citrus fruit

related to the yuzu, kabosu is only found in the Oita

Prefecture for a few weeks every autumn. Equally

impressive was the Western menu, on which caviar,

foie-gras and wagyu featured, all à la carte, naturally.

With the meal service behind us and more than

seven hours left in the sky, it was time to have my

seat prepared for sleep. The top-notch Nishikawa

Sangyo bedding, complete with an “Angel Float”

pillow and ultra-light comforter made from Teijin

fibres, made for one of the most restful sleeps I’ve

had on a long-haul flight. Hard-shell Samsonite

first class amenity kits are stocked with Ginza

products (Shiseido’s premium skincare line)

together with a variety of hand and face towels that

form part of a traditional Japanese cleansing ritual.

Waking up to freshly brewed matcha green

tea is the perfect way to begin one’s descent

into Tokyo, especially if you’re lucky enough to

catch a glimpse of regal Mount Fuji as the plane

begins its approach to the Japanese capital.

A masterclass in understated luxury and

the Japanese art of omotenashi, skillfully

combining slick service and sincere hospitality

with attention to detail and beautiful

presentation, rendered my ANA first class

experience seamless from start to finish.

Haneda is much closer to Tokyo than

Narita (the city’s other main international

airport), allowing for more convenient

access to the city centre. Fully rested, I am

excited and ready for Tokyo.

Alex Benasuli travelled on All Nippon Airways

in First Class from London Heathrow to Tokyo

Haneda in October 2018, on his own steam.


BRIGHTON FESTIVAL

Guest director for the festival’s 2019 celebration of music, theatre, dance, circus, art, film and literature is

multi award-winning Malian singer, songwriter and multi-instrumentalist Rokia Traoré, pictured

4-26 May 2019

No Shoes Required

AT

BANYAN TREE UNGASAN

Carolyn McKay kicks-off her

shoes in a divine Balinese clifftop

vacation hideaway that strikes

the perfect balance between

functionality and luxury

One of the 13,677 islands that make

up the nation of Indonesia, Bali is

known worldwide for the range and

diversity of its stunning scenery, from

sandy beaches to coral gardens, rice terraces to active

volcanoes and free-flowing waterfalls to peaceful lakes.

Complete with a lush tropical climate, rich and varied

culture and a strong spirituality stemming from its

Hindu population, it is unsurprising that Bali is known

to many as the “Island of the Gods”.

Renowned for its warm welcomes and graceful

hospitality (not to mention its party atmosphere),

hordes of globetrotters have been travelling to Bali for

decades, all searching for their own form of paradise.

Consequently, there is no shortage of exclusive resorts,

five-star hotels and fancy villas on the Indonesian

island, catering to every price point. But, for the more

discerning traveller seeking the luxury of peace and

tranquillity, Banyan Tree Ungasan may well be the

ultimate Balinese sanctuary.

Heading south in air-conditioned comfort after

departing Bali’s main airport, the craziness that

defines Bali’s traffic soon gives way to narrow winding

lanes and large stretches of forest punctuated with

tantalising glimpses of the Indian Ocean.

40-minutes’ drive from the airport, the hilly limestone

region of Uluwatu, on the south-western tip of Bali’s

Bukit Peninsula, is famous for its pristine hidden

beaches, dramatic rocky landscapes, high-end clifftop

resorts and world-class surf breaks. Happily, the

area is also still comparatively less developed than the

rest of the island. It is here that Banyan Tree Ungasan

is located, and stepping into the all-villa resort is

seemingly a world away from the rest of the island

andits touristy crowds.

After being greeted by name and bestowed with

a traditional blessing, guests are quickly whisked

away - along pathways bedecked with frangipanis,

bougainvillea and other verdant flora and fauna - to

the sanctuary of their private holiday abodes. Check-in

formalities are either completed swiftly without drama

or in advance of arriving. With just 73 luxury villas

spread over the undulating terrain of a sprawling

10-hectare site, buggies are de rigueur for getting

around and hence on call 24/7.

Kicking-off one’s shoes in a plush private villa,

complete with its own 10-metre infinity pool

surrounded by lush, established vegetation

affording itsinhabitants complete privacy, it’s hard

not to be completely overcome by my new clifftop

vacation hideaway. Dream-like is most certainly one

way to describe it. The perfect place to slip off the grid

for a few days, I set about unpacking and settling-in,

before sinking into a day bed perfectly positioned

under a large Balinese bale to take full advantage

of the panoramic views.

Barefoot luxury comes in many different forms -

at Banyan Tree Ungasan one of the most obvious

is space. At more than 400sqm, the resort’s entry-level

one-bedroom pool villas are some of the largest in

Bali. They offer the freedom to seriously spread out and

pad about, relax in one of numerous cosy corners ►


and really enjoy the space, while gently cooling sea

breezes waft over you. And being able to step directly

into a shimmering private pool, where the bedroom

ends, is nothing short of an utter delight.

Built in a traditional Balinese architectural style

with contemporary features and high-quality

finishes, and furnished simply yet stylishly with

careful attention to detail, the overall effect,

throughout my villa, is one of restrained luxury.

Walls of floor-to-ceiling sliding doors ensure that

glass doesn’t interrupt the incredible Indian Ocean

vistas visible from the living area, bedroom and

bathroom. Meanwhile, the expansive use of natural

materials and muted tones tenderly encourages

relaxation, to a backdrop of nature’s soothing sounds.

The large, light-filled marble-lined bathroom includes

a separate walk-in rain-shower, oversized deepsoaking

bathtub from which one can gaze out in various

directions, his and hers sinks, ample storage for even

the most lavish traveller, plus an extensive range of

amenities comprising local Indonesian products created

especially for each gender’s unique needs.

A daily ‘’scent of the day’’ in the room’s oil burners,

hand-stitched silk blankets on the beds, fresh picked

orchids and ferns atop wooden end tables and pillow

menus are just some of the many details which pepper

every villa.

In line with Banyan Tree’s philosophy to help guests

completely relax and rejuvenate, spa therapists and

chefs happily come directly to your villa to perform

a Balinese massage or prepare a dinner feast. So, you

need never put on your shoes, or leave your cozy oasis,

if you don’t want to.

After a good night’s sleep, there’s nothing quite like

awaking to the sight of dawn breaking and the sun

arising in front of your villa. Famed Uluwatu Temple,

one of the six key spiritual pillars revered by the Balinese

people, is but a short trip from the resort and another

spectacular location from which to watch the sunrise.

For those wishing to dip their toes in the Indian Ocean,

a footpath provides access to beautiful Melasti Beach,

which is located below towering limestone cliffs and

boasts some of the island’s most cerulean waters. Here,

Banyan Tree staff are on hand to set-up sun loungers

and provide cold refreshments to hotel guests.

For a truly indulgent afternoon, it’s worth the short

trip to the resort’s onsite spa, which follows the same

methods that were pioneered by the first ever Banyan

Tree property in Phuket. Offering time-honoured

treatments ranging from deep-tissue massages to

relaxing aromatherapy, the spa exclusively uses products

that reflect the resort’s passion for holistic and spiritual

cleansing.

An utterly divine treat for the senses, Banyan Tree’s

signature Tropical Rainmist treatment takes place under

a trickling rain shower, which allows the peaceful flow

of water to relieve tension, while therapists use steam

and honey milk to purify the skin before it’s boosted with

extra moisture. After a treatment, relax with some fresh

ginger tea and luxuriate in the breathtaking views, since

there’s no need to return to the real world just yet! ►


With four onsite restaurants there’s plenty of choice

if you fancy eating out of your villa, and Banyan Tree

positively encourages its guests to eat exactly what

they want when they want.

From the casual Pool Bar (beside the resort’s

jaw-dropping infinity pool) which is open all day

serving light bites and tropical cocktails; to Ju-Ma-Na

Restaurant & Bar where French cuisine with a Japanese

twist is offered for lunch and dinner; and the resort’s

bijou Tamarind restaurant which serves contemporary

renditions of Indonesian cuisine for dinner only, there

are sufficient onsite culinary options to satisfy even

the most discerning gourmand. A decadent in-villa

barbeque can even be arranged, in a variety of cuisines

to suit pretty much any palate.

Despite the fact that occupancy was high during my

stay at Banyan Tree Ungasan, there were many times

when it honestly felt like I had the place to myself,

such is the size of the property, the sophistication

of its guests and the relatively low number of villas

presided over by ever-gracious and professional staff

providing attentive yet discreet service.

If you opt to stay at Banyan Tree Ungasan when you

visit Bali, you would be forgiven for never leaving the

resort during your Balinese sojourn. I barely ventured

out of the villa during my 4-day stay. Striking the perfect

balance between luxury and functionality, without being

overtly flashy, makes Banyan Tree Ungasan unique in a

21st-century vacation world of decadent excess, and it’s

the kind of unique one just cannot get enough of.

www.banyantree.com/en/indonesia/ungasan-bali


SPOTLIGHT

BHUTAN

THE WORLD’S

LAST MAGIC

KINGDOM

In this day and age, any country

which measures and protects the collective

happiness & wellbeing of its population in terms

of its Gross National Happiness must surely be on

the bucket list of every happy-go-lucky globetrotter

Despite being sandwiched between the rapidly developing powerhouses of India and China, the mere mention

of Bhutan conjures up an intense air of magic and mystery. The Land of the Thunder Dragon. Lho Mon Kha Zhi

- the country of four approaches. The Last Shangri-La. Throughout its long history, Bhutan has been known by

many names, each adding to its reputation as an almost legendary, mythical land.

Today, this tiny remote Himalayan kingdom’s sense of unrushed timeliness is at odds with the internet-fuelled frenzy of

contemporary 21st century western life. Bhutan is a land of awe-inspiring peaks and glaciers; of pristine mountain lakes

and fast-flowing rivers fed by monsoons and melting snow; of dense ancient forests; of tigers and leopards, bears and

antelope.

Magnificent centuries-old fortresses (or dzongs) rise from cliff faces and valley floors; time-honoured stories of gods

and kings, heroes and demons swirl in the clouds; and traditional dancers mesmerise the senses in a whirl of brightlycoloured

silk and richly decorated masks.

Isolated from the rest of the world for hundreds of years, Bhutan wasn’t opened to travellers until 1974, at which stage

local people had never met a tourist. Even as recently as five years ago, most locals hadn’t had any contact with the

outside world, since tourists just visited the country’s temples and fortresses. Unsurprisingly, the government had to

tread very carefully to both preserve the pristine environment and unique cultural heritage.

You won’t see a backpacker in Bhutan. A ban on independent travel to deter budget travellers and insisting that every

international visitor spends a minimum of USD250 per day in high season and USD200 in low season, has positioned

Bhutan as a pioneer of high-value low-impact tourism, pre-empted the risk of over-tourism and protects the ►


population of 800,000 and their way of life. As a result, those who visit Bhutan are generally seasoned tourists who

do their research before arriving, and are thus engaged with the country and respectful of its traditions when travelling

around the Buddhist kingdom.

International travellers must sign-up with a registered Bhutanese tour agency before arriving in the country. The

minimum spend includes money spent on food, transport, guides and accommodation, so in reality it’s more like an

inclusive holiday than a tourist tax. Moreover, USD65 of the USD200-250 goes to the government, which reinvests the

money to provide free education and healthcare for its people.

Landing in Bhutan is an experience in itself and only a handful of pilots are sufficiently skilled to approach tiny Paro

International Airport, nestled among the Himalayas at 2.5 kilometres above sea level. Even Boeing has said that Paro is

‘one of the world’s most difficult for take-offs and landings’. A runway of just 2 kilometres long, a surrounding

landscape of 5,000 metre peaks and an abundance of mountain foliage mean that pilots need to weave their

planes through dozens of houses scattered across the mountainside, often coming within a few metres of clipping

roofs. Despite the perilous conditions, the views as you come in to land - over Paro River’s clear blue waters and

the lush green foliage of the Himalayas - are breathtaking, and provide a tantalising amuse-bouche of what’s to

come.

The Bhutanese believe that true advancement of human society only takes place when material and spiritual

development occur side by side. So, conserving the kingdom’s environment as tourism gradually grows, as well

as preserving Bhutan’s cultural and spiritual heritage, are paramount to the government. This is evident in a

variety of measures designed to minimise the impact of the increasing numbers of travellers visiting Bhutan. ►


The constitution stipulates that at least 60 percent of Bhutan will always remain under forest cover (the current level is 72

percent) and so much of this terrain is swathed with national parks and nature reserves. Biologically, Bhutan straddles

an area with incredibly high biodiversity richness - the Eastern Himalayas – and protected land is connected via a

network of ‘biological corridors’, so animals are free to roam throughout vast tracts of the countryside. This remarkable

system has boosted Bhutan as both a world biodiversity hotspot and a haven for endangered species, where Royal

Bengal tigers, clouded leopards, Himalayan black bears, antelopes and red pandas can be seen in their natural habitat.

Bhutan is the only place on Earth where leopards and tigers share the same habitat.

The Royal Bengal tiger has been a Bhutanese symbol of religious power for centuries. In fact, the nation’s most famous

monastery, Paro Taktsang, is colloquially known as the Tiger’s Nest after the legend that renowned Indian tantric

master Padmasambhava flew to the rocky outcrop on the back of a supernatural tigress. Unsurprisingly therefore,

Bhutan’s elusive mountain tigers are revered and treasured, and they roam wild in the rugged mountains of Bhutan,

not just in lowland jungle areas such as Royal Manas National Park, but also high in the foothills of the Himalayas and

Jigme Dorji National Park that extends to the Tibetan border. Hence, all over the kingdom, you will see tigers painted in

brilliant colours on the walls of houses, monasteries and palaces.

Free from the tourist hordes that constantly descend upon Nepal, trekking in Bhutan is an altogether more pleasurable

experience and a must for any visitor who is even vaguely energetic, to experience its unspoiled culture and stunning

nature. From gentle treks through ancient rhododendron forests to challenging hikes that traverse the country, Bhutan

offers something for walkers and trekkers of all levels. The Jhomolhari Trek is perhaps Bhutan’s most popular and

follows an ancient trade route, through Jigme Dorji National Park to fantastic views of sacred Jhomolhari peak, more

than 7,000 metres up, on the Tibetan border. ►


A number of world-class physical challenges also appeal to the more adventurous, including the one-day Tour of the

Dragon bike race (allegedly the toughest one-day race in the world) and the notorious 28-day Snowman Trek. And for

thrill-seekers, Bhutan offers white-water rafting in six major crystal-clear rivers fed by the glacial-melt of the Eastern

Himalayas, varying in classes and adrenaline-generating speeds.

If kicking off your shoes and relaxing is more your thing, an abundance of luxury wellness retreats provides an

opportunity to rejuvenate your body and mind via yoga, guided meditation, natural medicines and spiritual day tours

to ancient temples and monasteries.

Bhutan’s Machu Picchu and hugging the side of a rocky cliff 3,000 feet above Paro valley, it is 1,000 steps and a fourhour

roundtrip to hike to ‘The Tiger’s Nest’ of Paro Taktsang which was built in 1692. But the going is manageable if

taken slowly, for the path is well built, regularly maintained and the mountain air is refreshing. Plus, there are plenty

of opportunities to pause en route to catch one’s breath and admire the incredible views.

Also worth visiting is Punakha Dzong, one of the most majestic and famous structures in the country (built without

the use of nails, not even one) and widely considered to be the most beautiful dzong in Bhutan. At just over 51 metres

tall, gilded bronze Buddha Dordenma near Thimphu is one of the biggest Buddha statues in the world. Located atop

a hill in Kuenselphodrang Nature Park, it also offers visitors panoramic views of Bhutan’s capital and surrounding

mountains.

Despite being a relative newcomer to the tourism industry, Bhutan offers a variety of places to rest one’s head, ranging

from small hotels and homestays to five-star resorts and luxury retreats. ►


In a country like Bhutan, a homestay offers infinitely more contact and an immersive alternative to a luxury hotel

which more often than not could be anywhere. Wild Frontiers arranges small group tours and tailor-made holidays to

Bhutan, including homestays. (wildfrontierstravel.com)

At the other end of the hospitality scale, COMO Uma Paro is one of Bhutan’s most exclusive retreats, hosting international

travellers who want to both immerse themselves in the local culture and enjoy first-class hospitality. Perched on a

verdant hilltop overlooking the town of Paro, the resort features nine beautifully appointed private villas and 20 luxury

rooms, all of which combine contemporary design with Bhutanese artisanship. (www.comohotels.com/umaparo)

Six Senses Bhutan quite possibly provides the most complete five-star hospitality experience is the country, via

a collection of five boutique lodges located in different parts of the kingdom, three of which have already opened

(in Thimphu, Punakha and Paro Valley). The last two lodges (in Gangtey and Bumthang) will open this year. The

Thimphu lodge (the largest in the collection), is known as a “Palace in the Sky” since its design is inspired by the

architectural elements of a dzong (fortress) and the clouds. All lodges boast over-sized decks, floor-to-ceiling windows

offering uninterrupted views, and a spa and wellness center with facilities and treatments reflecting the valley in

which they are set. (www.sixsenses.com/resorts/bhutan/destination)

Wherever you stay in Bhutan, one thing is certain: you are destined to experience a sense of wonder in this unique part

of the world. From the dizzying mountain peaks to the verdant valleys, Bhutan will undoubtedly charm and captivate

all of your senses. And, if you are fortunate, you may experience the age-old magic at the heart of the kingdom’s

primeval forests, when time stands still, even if only just for a moment.


THRISSUR POORAM ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

Adorned with gleaming golden headdresses, ornamental bells, palm leaves, peacock feathers and beautiful intricate paintings

a row of gentle giants lines-up at the annual elephant festival held in Thrissur, the cultural capital of the Indian state of Kerala

13 May 2019

KYOTO

TRAVELLER

LOWDOWN

The pinnacle of Japanese

civilization, history

and culture, KYOTO

also combines big city

sophistication with small

town charm. Having

immersed himself in

this most rewarding of

destinations, Alex Benasuli

feels that he will never

be the same again

For more than a millennium, until 1868, Kyoto

served as the capital of Japan and the seat of its

political, military and religious power. Somewhat

unsurprisingly, therefore, the Japan of samurais and

geishas, of grand temple complexes and sublime gardens,

of mountain backdrops and crystal-clear streams and of

cherry blossoms and autumn foliage are all showcased

in Kyoto. Its glorious past and gorgeous nature-filled

surroundings are to be discovered around every corner.

Yet, while Kyoto is more popular as a tourist destination

than ever before, the city’s myriad of attractions ensures

that there is plenty of room for everyone. Hidden spots

are still be to found and once-in-a-lifetime moments

to be experienced. This is an exotic and seductive

place, where your jaw will literally drop multiple times

each day and all your romantic notions of the Land

of the Rising Sun will be more than satisfied.

They say that there’s a temple for every mood and taste

in Kyoto. With over 2,000 of them spread across the city,

it would take months, if not years, to explore them all.

Large temple complexes with multi-tiered pagodas and

immaculately landscaped gardens give way to smaller,

Shinto shrines. And while many of the country’s most

important buildings and antiquities are to be found in

Kyoto, it is the depth of what is on offer that is truly

staggering. Pace yourself. See the highlights but allow time

to wander around and to go a little off-piste. Invariably

you will stumble upon another marvel within minutes.

For all the throngs of visitors filling the streets and

temple courtyards, there are also quieter scenic routes

that wind through residential neighbourhoods, replete

with intimate cafés, art galleries and authentic noodle

shops that all offer natural breaks from the sightseeing.

If you only had a few hours in Kyoto, the delightful

Philosopher’s Walk (also known as the Path of the

Philosopher) in the northern Higashiyama district would

be the best way to feel immersed. The two kilometre

path follows a canal which is enveloped by hundreds of

cherry blossom trees, making it one of the most popular

walks in Kyoto during the annual season in spring.

On one side of the path, some of Kyoto’s most beautiful

temples are accessible, overlooked by the rolling

Higashiyama mountains. During autumn, the same

cherry trees and mountain forests explode in shades of

red, yellow and orange. In the hot and humid summer

months, the canal waters, shaded by the tree canopies,

offer some respite from the heat. Meanwhile, on the ►


THE PHILOSPHER’S WALK

other side of the path and leading down the slope

through upscale residential streets, cafés, casual

restaurants and quirky boutiques abound. Just beyond

the northern end of the walk, take a taxi or the

metro and make your way to Ginkaku-ji Temple.

Known as the “Silver Pavilion”, Ginkaku-ji was originally

built in 1484, though it has been rebuilt and renovated

many times since, following earthquakes and fires over

the centuries. “Silver” refers to the moonlight shadow

cast upon the dark wood exterior of its central pavilion.

The foreground of the temple boasts one of Japan’s

most celebrated sand gardens, meticulously raked into

Zen-like concentric circles, with a massive sand cone

as its apex. This “Sea of Silver Sand with Moon Viewing

Platform” (as this garden is formally called) is designed

to encourage spiritual contemplation and provides an

intro to Japanese garden. The much larger “moss” garden

on the other side (of a massive wooden gate) is laid

out as a series of winding pathways that make their

way up the foothills of the mountain slope, with ponds,

streams, bridges, tea houses and temple buildings as

focal points. The views over the entire garden, the temple

buildings and northern Higashiyama are breathtaking.

Just beyond the southern end of the Philosopher’s

Walk, around a 40-minute walk from Ginkaku-ji,

lies the equally impressive Nanzen-ji temple which

GINKAKU-JI TEMPLE SAND GARDEN

dates back to the mid 13th century. Nanzen-ji’s rock

garden is meant to evoke tigers and cubs crossing

through water. Like most temples in Kyoto, the inner

buildings house priceless collections of fine arts. In

the case of Nanzen-ji, these are screen doors with

tigers depicted in gold leaf. A mid-19th century

Meiji-era aqueduct, plus a hidden waterfall 200

metres higher up at the rear of the complex in the

Higashiyama Forest, add to the allure of Nanzen-ji.

In between the temple complexes of Ginkaku-ji and

Nanzen-ji, along (or just off) the Philosopher’s Walk,

are a handful of other temples, including magical

Hōnen-in and peaceful Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji. One can

easily spend hours or days even, soaking up the

temples and natural beauty of this part of Kyoto.

To the south of Higashiyama there are number of other

Kyoto must-sees. Another half day circuit could begin

with a visit to Sanjūsangen-dō. Housed within the

longest wooden structure in Japan, which dates back to

the mid 1200s, it is an incredible sight. A large, central

wooded Kannon (the Buddhist goddess of mercy) with

1,000 arms, is flanked on either side by 500 humansized

standing Kannons. Each Kannon has eleven heads

and 42 arms, making them better equipped to witness

and fight against human suffering. Impressive barely

conveys the feeling of gazing upon this army of gold ►

NANZEN-JI TEMPLE AQUEDUCT


SANJŪSANGEN-DŌ (MAIN HALL)

SANJŪSANGEN-DŌ

leafed wooden statues, illuminated from above. The site is

often referred to as Japan’s equivalent of China’s terracotta

warriors. (https://kyoto.travel/en/shrine_temple/159)

A short walk from Sanjūsangen-dō is Tōfoku-ji, another

jewel in Kyoto’s’ crown of larger temples. Tōfoku-ji is

usually less crowded than the others. It also has one

of the best gardens to experience the autumn foliage,

with scores of soaring maple trees, an abundance of

water features and a variety viewing points from which

to appreciate the scale and beauty of one of Japan’s

most important Zen temples from different angles.

Around the corner is Funda-in, a sub-temple of Tōfokuji.

This hidden gem has one of the oldest dry landscape

gardens in Kyoto, and a series of traditional Japanese-style

rooms - concealed behind shoji-style sliding doors - house

breathtaking screen paintings and delicate antiques.

Twenty minutes south from Tōfoku-ji, is the busy, brash

and seemingly more commercial Fushimi Inari Shrine.

At first glance, its temple buildings - interspersed with

street food vendors, religious merchandise stall holders

- seem quite different to the more contemplative and

elegant temple sites elsewhere in the city. However,

make no mistake, this is perhaps the most important

site in all of Kyoto and almost certainly one of its most

Instagramed. (https://kyoto.travel/en/shrine_temple/180)

Fushimi Inari’s iconic status is secured by the ten

thousand vermillion coloured Torii gates, some dating

back over a millennium, that ascend Inari mountain

from the main temple complex. The visual effect of

multiple ribbons of brightly hued gates, forming parallel

and seemingly endless pathways to the shrine at the

top of the mountain, is truly mesmerising. The further

up you climb through the gates and bamboo forests,

passing thousands of moss-covered stone foxes along

the way, the more you will have this remarkable place

to yourself. Inari is the all-important Shinto god of rice,

and the foxes are his guardians and messengers. The

spectacular views from the top, across Kyoto, are well

worth the few hours of uphill effort to get there!

The riverside suburb of Arashiyama is another part of Kyoto

which displays the city’s seductive charms. Easily accessed

by metro, bus or taxi, Arashiyama is easily worthy of a half

day if not a whole. This leafy, western district - nestled

along the Katsura River under the watchful eye of the

Arashiyama mountains - makes for extremely pleasant

walking, moderate hiking and cycling, particularly during ►

NANZEN-JI TEMPLE AQUEDUCT


spring, autumn and December during Hanatoro when

thousands of lights and flowers softly-illuminate streets

filled with shrines and temples. The bamboo forest

behind Tenryū-ji Temple and iconic Togetsukyo Bridge

(“Moon-Crossing Bridge”) are two of the best places

to experience Hanatoro and Arashiyama in general.

The largest and most impressive temple in Arashiyama is

Tenryū-ji, which dates back to 1339 and is one of Kyoto’s

five great Zen temples. Its walking and garden paths are

as striking as its main buildings. Nearby, Ōkōchi Sansō

is a must for garden lovers. This former villa of one of

Japan’s most famous actors from the last century, has

multiple tea houses, traditional wooden buildings dotted

around immaculate gardens and views over Arashiyama.

As is the case in Higashiyama, while the traditional

tourist highlights are exemplary, you are encouraged

to wander and explore. There are temples and shrines

almost everywhere and the nature around Kyoto is

breathtaking. If you are looking for mountain paths,

rolling rivers, babbling brooks, and bridges straight out

of a classic wood block print, you will find them all in

Arashiyama, which also makes an excellent starting

point for adventures in the mountains nearby.

For the little less active, the 25-minute Sagano

Scenic Railway, which connects Arashiyama to rural

ARASHIYAMA

FUSHIMI-INARI - TORII GATES

Kameoka through mountainsides, forested ravines

and along the Hozugawa river, is an excellent way to

see the incredible scenery. And the period carriages

with their wooden benches - a faithful reproduction of

the original late 19th century train - only adds to the

charming experience. (www.sagano-kanko.co.jp/en)

There will come a point in your visit to Kyoto where you

will likely become temple saturated. Walking around for

hours at a time stimulates an appetite and the need to

unwind. Gion, historically Kyoto’s entertainment district,

adjacent to Higashiyama, is still the area with the highest

density of bars and restaurants was well as traditional

Geisha hostess lounges. You will see kimono dressed

women all over the streets, temples and hotel lobbies

in Kyoto. However, in Gion they are even more prevalent.

The Hanami-koji area of Gion (on the south side of

Shijo-dori) has the best-preserved streets, with the

highest concentration of traditional, wooden machiya

merchant houses. The side streets also provide

multiple characterful dining and drinking options.

Gion Manzara is a popular but intimate restaurant,

within a traditional house, that serves Kyotostyle

home cooking on brightly coloured Japanese

ceramic dishes, appealing to both tourists and

locals alike (www.manzara.co.jp/gion). ►

SHIMONZEN DORI


A short walk away, the area between Yasaka

Shrine leading up to Kiyomizudera Temple offers

another cluster of well-preserved streets, with

numerous choices for more casual eating as

well as some decent souvenir shopping.

Fine arts collectors or those looking for special

treasures should head to Shinmonzen-Dori in Gion,

which is lined with reputable antique and art dealers,

some of whom have been there for over 100 years.

Over in Arashiyama, Kitcho Arashiyama is one of the

best places (if not most expensive), to indulge in multicourse,

immaculately prepared Japanese haute kaiseki

cuisine (www.kyoto-kitcho.com). Nearby, Café Hassui

sits on Hozugawa River, boasts indoor and outdoor

seating and panoramic views, and serves tea, coffee,

light bites and evening cocktails in a sophisticated yet

welcoming setting. (www.suirankyoto.com/hassui)

Whether you have a few hours or a few weeks,

spending time in Kyoto is like being in a dream that

you don’t want to end. With Japan’s glorious past on

display around every corner of Kyoto, you will leave

the city more entranced than ever by its intriguing

motherland, where art, architecture, nature, tradition

and attention to detail effortlessly fuse together,

providing visitors with a unique and deeply satisfying

cultural travel experience. (https://kyoto.travel/en)


HYATT REGENCY KYOTO

Hyatt Regency Kyoto quite honestly has it all.

Contemporary Japanese-inspired design throughout,

multiple restaurant and bar venues and an enviable

location combine to produce an overall guest

experience that is a true pleasure at every level.

Despite increased competition in the Kyoto luxury

hotel market, the Hyatt Regency continues to deliver

an exceptional five-star full-service hospitality

experience. For more than a decade, the property

has skillfully managed to bring together the design

flair and uber-coolness of a boutique hotel with the

deferential and perfectionist Japanese hospitality

concept of omotenashi in its 187 rooms, three

restaurants, spa, gym, Japanese garden and shrine.

Hyatt Regency Kyoto sits directly across the street

from Kyoto National Museum, on the edge of

southern Higashiyama, arguably the part of Kyoto

most densely packed with historical treasures as

well as entertainment possibilities. Sanjūsangendō

temple is literally around the corner. Yet despite

being conveniently located off a main street just

ten-minutes in a taxi from the main train station,

the hotel is discreetly tucked away behind a bamboo

forest, offering peace, quiet and a sense of refuge.

The hotel’s cavernous lobby, lined in whites, creams

and browns, makes liberal use of wood, stone, marble

and other natural materials to create a sophisticated

yet warm and inviting space. An intricate geometric

lattice work ceiling is mesmerising. While the Hyatt

Regency brand is generally better known for traditional

décor, the Kyoto incarnation stuns with its clean lines

and modernism. Designed by acclaimed Japanese

studio Super Potato, the decor also incorporates

reworked Japanese design elements throughout. Shojistyle

sliding doors and window frames abound and are

echoed in oversized floor lanterns and wall decorations

augmented by mirrors. Arriving into such a lobby after

a long journey or day of sightseeing is an utter delight.

The lobby flows into all-day-dining restaurant,

The Grill, which also serves afternoon tea. A wall of

windows revealing the hotel’s stunning Japanese

garden adds to an overall feeling of serenity.

Contemporary Japanese Guest rooms are functional

and comfortable with some fun touches, and feature ►


a generous use of plain wood, low slung beds and shojistyle

lighting. Horizontal tapestries of different coloured

antique kimonos hang above the beds providing a

vibrant injection. Bedside table digital consoles provide

an abundance of useful, well-presented info at the

touch of a finger. Deluxe rooms boast tranquil views

over the inner courtyard and Japanese garden. All rooms

have large wet room-style showers and oversized

bath tubs with carefully curated bath salts to aid

relaxation. The baths in fifth floor Balcony Deluxe rooms

are fashioned from prized Japanese cypress wood.

The hotel’s Japanese dining venue, Touzan, is

consistently ranked one of the most popular restaurants

in the city. With a focus on seasonal produce sourced

from farms in Kyoto’s suburbs, opting for one of

the set menus (which change with the seasons)

is the best way to experience the best of Touzan’s

excellent fare. And stylish Touzan Bar (adjacent to

the restaurant), with its variety of seating options,

make it perfect for a cosy, post dinner digestif.

Serving authentic pizzas and home-style dishes,

excellent onsite Italian restaurant Trattoria Sette is as

popular with locals as it is with guests. Meanwhile,

the hotel’s Pastry Boutique is a naughty place

to stop and stock-up with takeaway treats.

A 24-hour fitness room, kitted-out with a full range

of machines, free weights and cardio equipment,

satisfies even the most demanding of gym goers.

While for a more relaxing respite, Riraku Spa

offers a range of therapies specializing in shiatsu,

acupuncture and aromatherapy, and minimalist

décor throughout its 10 treatment rooms encourages

guests to loosen-up, slow down and heal. After

a full day of temple hopping, unwinding with a

signature treatment in Riraku Spa is a real treat.

Hyatt Regency Kyoto manages to deliver the highest

standards of hospitality in a professional yet personal

way, based on high levels of luxury deftly married with

local charm and Japanese traditions. Nothing illustrates

this more than the daily, early evening appearance of

an apprentice geisha (a Maiko), dressed in full kimono

regalia, gracefully performing a traditional dance in

the hotel’s lobby. Kyoto has been enchanting visitors

for centuries. Hyatt Regency Kyoto embraces that

enchantment to deliver a flawless 21st century Japanese

hospitality experience. kyoto.regency.hyatt.com

ALEX BENASULI


REVIEW

MATSUHISA PARIS

FRANCE

Food

Atmosphere

Situated within the legendary Royal Monceau,

MATSUHISA PARIS promises Joe Mortimer a celebratory

dining experience that tantalises all of his senses

It was more than 30 years ago that Nobuyuki

Matsuhisa opened his first restaurant in

Beverly Hills, featuring a menu inspired by his

experiences of working in kitchens across Japan

and South America. Classical Japanese cuisine was

embellished with the addition of Peruvian flavours

and ingredients: spicy peppers, punchy sauces and

unique dishes like ceviche and tiraditos. Below the

equator, they called this genre of Japanese-Peruvian

cuisine ‘nikkei’, but Matsuhisa had another term for

it: ‘Nobu-style’. The restaurant quickly attracted a

cult following in LA, and regular diner Robert de Niro

invited the chef to team up and open a restaurant

in New York. The rest, as they say, is history.

Today, the Nobu name is burnished on 40

restaurants across the globe: an empire stretching

from Honolulu to Tokyo. The first ever Nobu hotel

was an instant classic when it opened in 2012 at

Caesar’s Palace in Vegas, with the promise of the

restaurant’s food available via room service. Seven

more hotels have opened since, and the brand’s

growth doesn’t look likely to slacken any time soon.

While the expansion of Nobu-branded restaurants

has been well publicised, the chef has also quietly

grown his original Matsuhisa concept, with a small

collection of independent restaurants that blend the

chef’s signature style with more destination specific

dishes that evoke a sense of place in each location.

The most recent addition to the family is Matsuhisa

Paris, which opened in Le Royal Monceau Raffles

Paris in 2016, joining other branches in Aspen,

Athens, Mykonos and Munich, as well as the Beverly

Hills original. The restaurant takes pride of place

among the culinary offerings at Le Royal Monceau,

a Parisian hospitality landmark that’s just a few

hundred metres from the Arc de Triomphe.

The restaurant is already doing a brisk trade when

I arrive at 8pm on a Monday night, and tables are

filling up fast, mostly with groups of three and

four, almost all in business dress, as well as a few

couples. The hum of conversation floats above the

music, which is provided by a DJ stood somewhere

out of sight. Great domed lights float above the

restaurant, which is essentially an open-plan space

with intimate alcoves along both sides, broken

up by wood-panelled columns and translucent

drapes that hang from the high ceiling. ►


Glitzy, mirrored waiters’ stations lend a splash of

Art Deco style, a nod perhaps to the roaring 1920s

and that great French institution: the cabaret. At

the back of the room, in front of a backlit wall of

lime green bamboo, the Omakase Bar and sushi

kitchen take centre stage. Here, in front of the

live audience, a brigade of sushi chefs prepares

elaborate raw dishes akin to works of art. I pull up

a pew and wait for the performance to begin.

Anyone familiar with the Japanese chef’s cuisine will

be instantly at home in Matsuhisa Paris. I’ve eaten

at Nobu restaurants in Las Vegas and Dubai, and

the menu here is full of familiar dishes, as well as a

sprinkling of plates clearly inspired by the Parisian

location: wagyu beef with foie gras ravioli grabs my

attention, as do the crispy oysters with caviar. But

since most of the dishes on the à la carte menu

are designed for sharing, I opt for the Omakase

Menu: an eight-course degustation that promises

to showcase the best of Matsuhisa’s cuisine,

executed here under the leadership of Executive

Chef Hideki Endo, who cut his teeth in Nobu kitchens

in Japan and Hong Kong before arriving in Paris.

From the privileged position at the Omakase

Bar, diners can observe Endo’s handiwork, as he

carefully slices through gorgeous fillets of fresh

tuna and salmon, selects edible flowers and the

best-looking slivers of vegetables, and transforms

them into fantastical ensembles. He flashes a

grin when I suggest that it looks easy, but his

concentration is steadfast as he simultaneously

prepares two exquisite looking dishes. A junior

chef approaches with two plates of a house

special, red mullet sashimi, for approval. Both are

spectacular, delicate and whimsical, almost too

good-looking to eat. Endo nods his satisfaction.

Whilst the restaurant has a weighty wine list

and a handsome selection of Japanese sakes,

I start with a cocktail: a harmonious blend of

aged tequila, ginger infusion, fresh lime and

agave syrup, collectively called Gold Rush. It’s a

triumph: a medley of flavours perfectly balanced to

complement the style of cuisine, and a wonderful

start to what promises to be a fantastic experience.

The culinary journey begins with Scottish salmon

tartar, topped with French ‘Imperial’ caviar and

wasabi flowers, surrounded by a wasabi and ►


soy sauce with a glossy sheen. It’s a tantalising

introduction to the playfulness of ‘Nobu-style’:

silky salmon and salty caviar that contrasts

beautifully with the wasabi soy, setting the tone for

the menu. To finish, a delicious little Japanese peach

is popped in whole and whoosh: palate cleansed.

Another elegant plate follows: yellowtail sashimi on

cucumber slices and thin slivers of spicy jalapeño,

basking in a yuzu soy, flaunting Matsuhisa’s passion

for incorporating South American ingredients in

classical Japanese cuisine. An assortment of nigiri

– tuna, sea bass and Saint-Jacques scallops –

comes next, accompanied by a California roll and

a delicate Japanese omelette, embossed with the

Matsuhisa logo, all served directly onto a banana

leaf on the bar top. The wasabi is grated fresh, the

ginger is chunky and moreish and the soy sauce

is wonderfully tangy, but it’s the live preparation

that really make this course stand out, turning

a simple dish into an exclusive experience.

While I savour the sushi, one of the chefs prepares

a spectacular platter of king crab with burrata

and pepper sauce, a beautiful dish that takes a

full 10 minutes to assemble. Like many on the à

la carte menu, the plate is meant for sharing and

creates an instant wow-factor at the table. That,

I believe, is the spirit of this restaurant: the food

is celebratory, designed to elicit not only sensory

pleasure, but conversation, surprise and delight.

It’s an exploration in gastronomy: a journey down

the rabbit hole of Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s creative mind.

The Omakase Menu is more of an introduction

to the oeuvre: an overview of the chef’s vision

that focuses on flavours and textures, rather

than aesthetics. A case in point: the seared tuna

tataki salad and addictive ‘Matsuhisa’ dressing is

delicious, and the sauce is extraordinary, but the

presentation lacks the flair that’s evident on many

of the beautiful plates emerging from the sushi bar.

Signature black cod is an essential part of any Nobu or

Matsuhisa dining experience, and this one doesn’t fail

to impress. Presented simply on a banana leaf with

a thin shoot of pickled ginger, the diner is forced to

devote their attention to the piece of fish and savour

every bite. And it’s every bit as good as it should be.

Chunks of voluptuous, silky cod flake at the lightest

touch of the chopstick and melt in the mouth. ►


The fish is cooked to perfection, and after 24 hours

marinating in yuzu miso, it’s infused with a deep, rich

flavour that verges on buttery. This is ‘Nobu-style’

at its best: taking a simple ingredient and finding

the best possible expression of it to delight diners.

I’m still lost in a pleasant post-cod reverie when the

next dish arrives: two mini-fillets of beautifully cooked

wagyu beef with shitake mushroom, asparagus and

crispy broccoli, and a smear of Peruvian anticucho

sauce. Like the cod, it’s simple but perfectly

executed, as is the next course: a punchy miso

soup with pieces of silky tofu and several cockles.

Unfortunately, the magical mystery of my debut

cocktail cannot be repeated. The second one,

which takes more than half an hour to arrive,

turns up during the miso course. But the aged

tequila has, bafflingly, been replaced with cachaça,

which is much too overpowering to be paired

with such delicate cuisine. An apologetic server

acknowledges the mistake and that’s that.

The culinary performance concludes with a whisky

iced cappuccino, a Matsuhisa Paris signature, which

looks like a regular mug of Cappuccino but contains

a chocolate crumble and whisky mousse within.

The Omakase Menu contains a selection of dishes

from the Nobu repertoire that have been delighting

diners for years: perfectly executed concepts

that demonstrate an incredible ability to balance

flavours and bring out the best of an ingredient.

It is a retrospective rather than an exhibition: a

celebration of time-proven dishes, rather than a

showcase of new creations that are unique to this

particular restaurant and locale. If you have never

dined at a Nobu or Matsuhisa restaurant before, it

offers a journey into the heart of the chef’s cuisine,

and the EUR 130 price tag is quite reasonable for

an eight-course gourmet experience in Paris.

Although it’s the sharing plates from the à la carte

menu that are the most visually impressive -

showing off the artistic and sometimes whimsical

presentation that make Nobu’s cuisine unique

- it’s the simple things that resonate and remain

with the discerning diner. After all, it’s hard to

find fault in any chef who can turn a simple

piece of cod into a culinary symphony.


MATSUHISA PARIS

Food:

Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Hideki Endo

Address: 37 Avenue Hoche, 75008 Paris, France

Telephone: +33 (0)1 42 99 98 70

Email:

dining.paris@raffles.com

Cuisine:

Peruvo-Japanese

Lunch: 12:00-14:30

Dinner: Monday – Wednesday 19:00-22:30

Thursday – Saturday 19:00-23:30

Sunday 19:00-22:30

Reservations: Essential

Wheelchair access: Yes

Children: High chairs available. No kids’ menu

Credit cards: All major

Parking:

Free valet parking

Lunch price: Signature bento box EUR 65, containing rock

shrimp tempura; tuna sashimi salad; Matsuhisa

dressing; black cod saikyo yaki; sushi selection;

spicy sautéed vegetables; whisky iced cappuccino.

Dinner price: Yellowtail sashimi EUR 8; salmon tataki EUR 22;

baby spinach salad EUR 26; rock shrimp tempura EUR 29;

black cod saikyo yaki EUR 54; sushi selection, mochi EUR 15.

Ideal meal: Eight-course Omakase tasting menu EUR 130 per person

Website:

www.leroyalmonceau.com/restaurants/matsuhisa-paris

Reviewed by Joe Mortimer for dinner February 2019

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback

about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.


NEWCOMER

APRON

VIENNA

Nicholas Chrisostomou visits slick

new APRON restaurant at Hotel am

Konzerthaus Vienna MGallery by

Sofitel, which serves fine dining-style

cuisine in an unpretentious fashion

Notwithstanding the nation’s well-known pan-fried breaded

veal dish of Wiener Schnitzel (the quality of which varies

tremendously across the Austrian capital), the beautiful city of

Vienna is vastly more well known for its numerous museums

than it is for culinary excellence. The city has half a dozen or so Michelinstarred

restaurants, but Michelin is not the barometer it once was, and fine

dining is generally not accessible to the eating out masses and therefore

not a fair indicator of a city’s gastronomic maturity. And while Vienna has

plenty of pastry shops, coffee houses and wine bars, it distinctly lacks

quality, mid-range restaurants which don’t break the bank.

There are many other cultural capitals in Europe which are in the same

boat as Vienna. Berlin, for instance, rarely makes gastronomic headlines

with its culinary exploits. But things are changing in Vienna (albeit at

something of a snail’s pace!) and some notable restaurants have recently

opened around the city.

Located between the city’s Konzerthaus and Akademietheater (both

established performance venues), APRON opened earlier this year at Hotel

am Konzerthaus in the third district. It is named after the part of a theatre

stage that extends past the proscenium arch and into the audience area,

since the restaurant’s kitchen is semi-open and partly visible to diners.

Whilst this is not ground-breaking in terms of Viennese restaurants, at

APRON the “window” into the kitchen has been opened in a slightly more

stylised fashion, allowing diners to see the finishing touches being put to

dishes before service.

The APRON experience begins at the venue’s beautiful Deco-inspired bar,

which separates the restaurant from the hotel’s lobby and casual dining

area where guests can snack or grab a coffee in a relaxed environment.

Presided over by talented mixologists Adrian and Andrei, it wouldn’t

be difficult to spend an entire evening at the bar, sipping delectable

cocktails and listening to the stories behind them. The talented duo also

routinely pair local spirits, wines and international classics with homemade

essences, extracts and syrups to lovingly create a range of unique

signature drinks.

APRON’s long main dining room is slick and smart yet warm and inviting,

with a long banquette running the entire length of one wall uniting tables

and diners. A plush, semi-open private dining room would work equally

well for a cocktail party as it would for a celebratory banquet.

Formerly Chef de Cuisine at Vienna’s much lauded OPUS restaurant for

which he won a Michelin star, Lower Austrian-born Stefan Speiser is in

charge of APRON’s kitchen. Named Gault & Millau Newcomer of the Year

2017, Speiser was name-checked as one of Austria’s 50 best chefs earlier

this year.

Speiser’s speciality is creating finely tuned, lighthearted Austrian-themed

dishes, which often playfully incorporate global food trends. There’s a

gentle sense of fun to Speiser’s fare which sets it apart from run-of-themill

fine dining and adds a spirited aspect to everything that comes out of

his kitchen. Speiser is also something of a vegetable expert ►


knowing precisely how to bring out their best. And clever twists

to classics (such as APRON’s excellent beef tartare) are executed

to perfection, gently nudging them into the 21st century.

Every APRON dining experience begins with a butter candle in

avintage brass holder accompanied by a range of dips and breads.

In stark contrast to other European restaurants serving such

high-quality fare, the menu is easy to understand, and guests

may order à la carte or opt for a tasting menu of as few or as

manycourses as they fancy. Throughout the venue, an over-riding

emphasis on quality, simplicity and value-for-money prevail.

These qualities, coupled with friendly and unstuffy service, make

APRON a destination restaurant for an altogether enjoyable meal.

Standout dishes include a caviar that hails from the upper

AustrianAlps and an exceptionally good first quality, grass-fed

BOA beef. And whilst some desserts are given a royal touch with

exclusive lemons grown in the citrus garden at Schönbrunn

Palace, it has to be said that dining at APRON is something of

acontemporary regal experience from start-to-finish, especially

when feasting on a tasting menu. With culinarily creative Speiser

at its helm, APRON will surely land accolades and win fans

throughout the Austrian capital.

www.restaurant-apron.at


ga

fin

EXPERIENCE

GUCCI

GARDEN

FLORENCE

Brainchild of Gucci’s superstar creative director Alessandro

Michele, Nicholas Chrisostomou visits the brand’s restaurant,

llery and concept store in Florence, GUCCI GARDEN, where the

e diner, museum goer and fashion aficionado can all coalesce

What Alessandro Michele has done

at Gucci in the past four years is

nothing short of a complete overhaul

of the iconic brand. So, the opening

of Gucci Garden a year ago in Italy’s cultural

capital, a natural progression of the designer’s

creative spirit, would have come as little surprise

to fashion aficionados and those that know him.

Few will know that Guccio Gucci founded the house

of Gucci in Florence in the early 20th century. His first

talent being his craftsmanship in leather goods, Gucci

first opened a saddlery shop in 1906. It was 1921 when

Gucci founded the fashion house bearing his name. Gucci

grew and prospered in Florence and its surroundings,

where the leather and textile industry was thriving.

Several years ago, Gucci moved its design headquarters

to Rome, where it occupies a grand Renaissance building

called the Palazzo Alberini. Completed in 1519, the

erection of the palazzo followed a plan which is widely

believed to have been penned by Raphael and many art

historians recognise his touch in the building’s elegantly

geometric façade. The former chapel of the palazzo is

now the office of Gucci’s creative director. Since January

2015 this position has been held by Michele, a Rome

native in his forties, who worked at Gucci for 14 years

before his ascension. In December 2014, Michele was

second-in-command at the company, overseeing its

accessories line. The following month it all changed.

Formerly of Fendi, Frida Giannini was Gucci’s creative

director for eight years preceding Michele. During

Giannini’s tenure, she begun a relationship with Gucci’s

CEO Patrizio di Marco. Giannini and di Marco had a

child together, but trouble was brewing. Fashion critics

were growing bored with Giannini’s clothes, many of

which reworked themes that Gucci had been working

since the nineties, when Tom Ford revitalised the brand

by glamorously juxtaposing the clothes with some

highly suggestive campaign imagery. Giannini looking

to musical icons like David Bowie and eras such as

the ’70s did little to help the brand’s underwhelming

performance and declining prominence in fashion

circles. Amid falling sales, Giannini and di Marco were

rather unceremoniously fired in December 2014.

When Michele moved into the former chapel-cumoffice

he immediately threw out its modern couches,

instead filling the space with his personal collection of

antiques, including a huge 19th century double desk,

purchased from an antique store in Florence, designed

so that two people can work opposite each other.

Having laboured for years at Gucci - all the while

keeping a lid on his creative vision in the service of

Giannini, and quietly learning how the company

worked - he stepped into the role of creative director with

gusto. Within his first week he had overseen the design of

an entirely new men’s collection. The complete antithesis

to Giannini’s unadventurous designs, Michele’s first

menswear collection at the helm of the brand included

a blouse-like pink shirt fastened at the neck with a

pussycat bow. In addition, Michele injected a distinctly

modern edge into the runway show by presenting

the garments on both male and female models. Two

days after the show on 21st January 2015, Michele

was officially promoted to creative director of Gucci.

Michele is a man who looks at modern fashion with

a historical eye. Inspired by life rather than fashion,

Michele has infused the famous Italian fashion house

with a vitality and 21st century relevance that it had

been lacking for many years. Tasked with resurrecting

the brand following a number of disappointing seasons

of underwhelming sales, as well as appealing to ►


millennial customers while still maintaining Gucci’s

legacy as a premium brand, the Roman designer deftly

achieved all three by pivoting to gender fluidity, bucolic

imagery and downright maximalism. Nowhere is this

more on display than Gucci Garden in Florence.

A historic jewel in the crown of the quintessentially

Florentine fashion house, Gucci Museo next to

Palazzo Vecchio in Florence had served as a shrine

to its history, from Guccio Gucci’s beginnings in

the early 1900s through to Tom Ford’s tenure and

beyond. But in Michele’s mind, it had become tired,

irrelevant and dated. Today, the industry in which

Michele is making waves, embraces all corners of

the fashion world, and the museum, in its former

incarnation, just didn’t do the brand justice.

With Michele in the driving seat, the reimagined RESTAURANT

museum was always going to be unique. Pushing the

fashion-food envelope to the next level, the historic

14th century Palazzo della Mercanzia now houses

a multifunctional exhibition space spread over two

floors, Gucci Garden Galleria, which visually traces the

history of the brand; a unique gift shop-like concept

store, Gucci Garden, bedecked with a variety of oneof-a-kind

items spanning everything from chairs to

clothes in a kaleidoscopic range of colours, and a Guccibranded

restaurant, Gucci Osteria, conceptualised

by much celebrated Italian chef Massimo Bottura.

Massimo Bottura’s small and discreet three Michelinstarred

restaurant Osteria Francescana, located in the

modest Italian town of Modena, topped the World’s 50

Best Restaurants list in 2016, was named number 2 in

2017 and returned to pole position in the 2018 edition

as outright winner of The World’s Best Restaurant

award. To deliver one of the world’s finest dining

experiences, Bottura combines nods to tradition with

culinary modernity and serves plates bursting with good,

old-fashioned flavours. It’s an Oscar-winning formula.

The culinary story at Gucci Osteria is thankfully much

the same as Modena. In Florence, Bottura’s wellconsidered

fare positively shines in the formal yet chic

and comfortable green-walled Gucci-tinted dining

room, decorated with renaissance stone carvings.

Guests enter the restaurant via the Gucci Garden shop

and are seated without drama or fanfare. A plush, long,

bottle green velvet banquette runs the length of one wall,

while circular tables fill the length of the other. Staff are

warm, friendly, knowledgeable and dressed in Gucci.

Fine white linen graces the tables. Food is served on

distinctive, patterned Gucci crockery crafted in Richard

Ginori porcelain. But despite being a Gucci restaurant

the branding isn’t obviously in your face. It is subtle and

has been executed in a skilful, utterly tasteful, fashion.

Bottura’s spins on global dishes are complete triumphs.

I could have eaten another three of the Chinese-style

steamed bun filled with pork belly meat, which I wolfed

down in rather un-Gucci-like fashion. Every dish that

was delivered to the table, as part of the 7-course tasting

menu, elicited delight in either my companion or I. The

wine pairing was spot-on throughout. A gastronomic

highlight of the meal was Bottura’s signature tortellini

with parmesan cream dish which was simply divine.

If you have a few hours to spare, it’s certainly worth

forking out for the rather reasonable EUR 90 tasting

menu. Adding 7 glasses of paired wine at EUR 70 takes

the bill to EUR 160 per person for the full enchilada. A

candle in the gift shop next door costs more than that.

You can bet your best Gucci that my memory of the meal

will remain long after the candle has burnt out.

www.gucci.com/us/en/store/osteria-bottura


music &

NIGHT

LIFE

Widely recognised as one of the best cellists of

his generation, DANIEL MÜLLER-SCHOTT has

played every great concert hall around the world

DANIEL MÜLLER-SCHOTT

DO YOU COME FROM A MUSICAL FAMILY?

Yes, my mother was a piano teacher and played the

harpsichord, so there was always music in the house.

She introduced my brother and I to music and regularly

took us to orchestra rehearsals, so we had the chance to

experience all different kinds of instruments and sounds.

WHY THE CELLO?

When I was five years old, I sat in on a rehearsal of

the Schumann Cello Concerto and was fascinated

by the instrument’s sound and how it was played. I

decided there and then that I wanted to learn how to

play the cello and my mother helped me to find the

right teacher. Holding and embracing the instrument

is something very special and many people say

that its warm sound is human-like. I feel more

and more that the cello’s invention has changed

many people’s lives. It certainly changed mine.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR TEENAGE

YEARS AS A YOUNG CELLIST?

I struggled with the cello at first. It took many years

of determination to overcome the technical aspects of

playing the instrument properly, and develop discipline

and patience, before I was able to make a beautiful

sound and express myself in the music. So, my teenage

years as a cellist were a struggle and very challenging.

DID YOU ALWAYS WANT TO BE A SOLOIST?

Yes, I always felt that I wanted to express myself

in a very free way. Of course, as a cellist, one often

depends on other musicians and are keen to share

music with others. But whilst I love chamber music

very much, the feeling ofplaying a cello concerto

at the very front of an orchestra, and telling an

intensely expressive story though the music, is

something that always fascinated me deeply.

WHEN WAS THE FIRST TIME YOU PERFORMED

IN PUBLIC AND HOW DID YOU FEEL?

I was 6 years old. I can’t exactly remember how it

felt (being such a long time ago!), but playing on

stage always felt like a positive challenge to me

and so I was never afraid of performing. Starting

young helped me to become accustomed to being

on stage and focus purely on the music when

performing, rather than the surroundings. ►


WHO WERE YOUNG DANIEL’S

MUSICAL MENTORS?

My mother and my teachers. I have been very lucky

to have the support of many wonderful teachers

throughout my career, including Walter Nothas with

whom I studied for many years in Munich. Later

I studied with Steven Isserlis (who became my

“Cello Dad“) and Heinrich Schiff. Anne-Sophie Mutter

was also a great mentor, and she recommended me

to Mstislaw Rostropovich when I was seventeen.

YOU WERE TAUGHT BY CELEBRATED RUSSIAN

CELLIST AND CONDUCTOR MSTISLAW

ROSTROPOVICH FOR A YEAR. IN WHAT WAYS

DID THIS SHAPE YOUR MUSICAL CAREER?

Not least, he showed me the traditions of Russian

expressiveness and “belcanto” playing and I could always

ask him for advice which was incredibly valuable. Also,

I played the works of some great composers with

whom he was close friends, including Britten,

Shostakovich and Prokofjev. Being taught by

Mstislaw Rostropovich influenced me in innumerable

ways and still impacts my playing today.

WHAT IMPACT DID WINNING FIRST PRIZE

AT THE 1992 MOSCOW INTERNATIONAL

TCHAIKOVSKY COMPETITION FOR YOUNG

MUSICIANS HAVE ON YOUR LIFE AND PLAYING?

This was a turning point for me, because it was the

first time I truly believed that playing the cello could

really be my future. So, winning the competition

essentially changed my life, and there followed many

invitations from orchestras around the world.

IT’S SAID THAT YOU HAVE A CHILDHOOD LOVE

FOR THE MUSIC OF JOHANN SEBASTIAN BACH.

HOW DOES BACH’S MUSIC SPEAK TO YOU

DIFFERENTLY TO THAT OF OTHER COMPOSERS?

My mother often played Bach at home, on the organ

as well as the harpsichord. She also took me to famous

oratorios of Bach’s music as a child, so I developed a

love for his music early in my playing. When I began to

study Bach’s Cello Suites they felt very familiar to me.

Some years later, it seemed very natural to play them

as a whole and record them on CD. Today, Bach is always

at the centre in my work and daily life as a musician.

I honestly feel like I am surrounded by Bach all the time. ►


YOU HAVE GUESTED WITH NUMEROUS

ORCHESTRAS AROUND THE WORLD. HOW

DOES IT FEEL TO BE A SOLOIST IN THE MIDST

OF AN ORCHESTRA OF TALENTED PERFORMERS,

AND HOW DO YOU HANDLE THE PRESSURE OF

EVERYONE’S EYES BEING ON YOU WHEN YOU

PLAY?

Playing with different orchestras is wonderful because

over the years you get to know many people around

the world, especially when playing with them over and

over again. I don’t think much about the pressure -

instead I focus on the music and how we can combine

our energies by communicating through the language

of music. As a soloist, I forget about myself when I’m

playing and concentrate on what is most important in

the music. This frees me to make the music sound more

special.

YOU ARE AN ARDENT SUPPORTER OF THE

EDUCATIONAL PROJECT RHAPSODY IN SCHOOL,

WHICH PRESENTS CLASSICAL MUSIC TO

SCHOOLCHILDREN AND TEENAGERS IN EUROPE,

THE STATES, ASIA AND AUSTRALIA. HOW DID

YOU GET INVOLVED?

My support of Rhapsody in School started over ten years

ago. Lars Vogt was the founder and asked me if I would

like to join the project. Since music has unfortunately

become a lesser part of a general school education, we,

as musicians, strive to show that classical music is an

important part of our culture and cultural identity. I visit

schools and speak to pupils about music; my life with

music; why it is inspiring to play an instrument and how

it feels to make music.

YOU HAVE ALREADY WON A NUMBER OF

AWARDS AND MUCH RECOGNITION AROUND

THE WORLD, INCLUDING THE DIAPASON D’OR

IN FRANCE. WHAT DO THESE ACCOLADES MEAN

TO YOU?

They act as motivators and remind me that I am on the

right path. I am also very grateful that so many people in

the classical music world have noticed my work.

WHAT RESPONSIBILITIES COME WITH BEING

A PROMINENT CELLIST OF YOUR STATURE?

I believe that my “mission in music” is to pass on

something to future generations, and convey the same

to societies in different countries for them to build on. ►


ASIDE FROM CLASSICAL, WHAT OTHER MUSIC

GENRES DO YOU ENJOY?

I enjoy many different types of music, including jazz,

pop and rock. I recently saw a very good documentary

about Michael Jackson, some of whose concerts I

attended when I was a teenager. His singing and dancing

always really impressed me. I believe that something can

be learnt from every different genre of music.

WHO IS YOUR FAVOURITE MODERN-DAY

CLASSICAL COMPOSER OR MUSICIAN AND WHY?

André Previn, Peter Ruzicka, Sebastian Currier and Sofia

Gubaidulina. I also love the works of Polish composer

and conductor Krzysztof Penderecki; French composer

Henri Dutilleux; German composer Hans Werner Henze,

and American composer of modern classical and

avant-garde music, George Crumb. Composer Pierre

Boulez’s music is also wonderful. The music of our time

is truly colourful.

WHICH HOLIDAY DESTINATION HOLDS THE

FONDEST MEMORIES FOR YOU?

Whilst I was fascinated by Australia and New Zealand,

I also love visiting the mountains around Munich.

There are also many places in Austria and Switzerland

that I often visit. I love being close to nature - whether

by the sea or in the mountains - since being surrounded

by purely calm elements is very refreshing. I get a lot

of energy from these places.

YOU HAVE TOURED THE WORLD PERFORMING.

OF ALL THE COUNTRIES YOU HAVE VISITED,

IS THERE ONE WHICH YOU FEEL ESPECIALLY

CONNECTED TO?

It’s hard to pick one because I enjoy traveling around

Europe so much. London is a great city with wonderful

museums and an amazing energy. I always love visiting

New York. Asia is fascinating. I enjoy being in Japan,

South Korea and Taiwan.

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR 2017-RELEASED

ALBUM CELLO REIMAGINED AND THE

INSPIRATION BEHIND IT?

Cello Reimagined was exciting (especially for me!)

because it enlarged the cello repertoire. For, whilst many

wonderful pieces have been written for my instrument,

a number of composers never wrote for the cello.


Mozart adapted his Oboe Concerto for the flute. So, I

thought this would be a great opportunity to turn the

same piece into a cello concerto, not least because

Mozart didn’t write any cello solo pieces. The Mozart

piece was actually the basis of Cello Reimagined, which

is essentially a mix of transcriptions I produced, plus

some of my own cadenzas.

PLEASE REVEAL TO OUR READERS A SECRET

IN-FLIGHT TIP?

My in-flight routine is very un-special - I just sit, relax

and enjoy. I sleep and read a lot. Of course, I also enjoy

listening to music or watching new movies in-flight. But,

most of all, I enjoy the cell phone-free time and often use

it to study music scores and reflect.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE HOTEL IN THE WORLD

AND WHY?

I don’t have a favourite, but I really liked the Four

Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, which boasts stunning

harbour views from its rooms.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CAREER HIGHLIGHT TO

DATE AND WHAT IMPACT DID IT HAVE ON YOU?

Speaking of career highlights is always difficult because

I have had so many wonderful experiences for which

I am grateful. I was recently on a wonderful tour with

Julia Fischer (German classical violinist), Kirill Petrenko

(Russian-Austrian conductor) and the Bayerisches

Staatsorchester (Bavarian State Orchestra), which

included playing at Hamburg’s Elbphilharmonie and

Carnegie Hall in New York. Playing in such incredible

venues is always special. The first time I performed with

the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra, and played Dvořák’s

Cello Concerto, with Alan Gilbert, was definitely a career

highlight.

WHAT’S TOP OF YOUR TRAVEL BUCKET LIST?

Whilst I have visited many countries around the world,

there are some that I would like to see which are less

connected with classical music. These include South

Africa, Thailand and India.

WHAT IS YOUR ULTIMATE GOAL AS A CELLIST?

Share my music; move people with music and, basically,

invite everyone to enjoy the world of music.

www.daniel-mueller-schott.com/en


GLOBETROTTER

Adrian Gibson catches-up with the fast

rising Shropshire-born menswear designer


Who has been your biggest

fashion influence?

Upon leaving school at 16, I started an

apprenticeship with a bespoke tailor called Arthur

Pardington in Market Drayton. Arthur produced

bespoke shooting attire and traditional English

country wear for the local land owners in-andaround

Shropshire, as well as J. Purdey & Sons in

London which has held royal warrants since 1868.

Arthur had a huge impact on me and my work. I

grew up in a house where we were told we could

do anything we wanted if we worked for it, so I did!

Please talk us through the creative

process for a season?

I start by pulling together a visual mood board

of ideas, fabrics, colours and suchlike, based on

past sales and collections that have been well

received. Then I begin to build a range plan for the

collection. From this, I share the ideas with my

stylist and art director who often feedback their

inspired thoughts and ideas. Then I spend time

drawing the collection out and developing patterns

for each of the garment ideas. We then produce

toiles and prototypes for each garment. Fittings

are then held where we photograph them all. Once

we have finished photographing, we lay each

image out and work through which of the looks

works best and edit accordingly. Throughout this

process, we come up with additional ideas which

are added and considered. We continue to work

through everything until I feel that the collection is

complete and ready to sample in the actual fabrics.

What are your thoughts on having a muse?

I have always been inspired by the men in and

around my life. To think outside the box, outside

one’s little world, can be difficult at times. Having

a muse makes me, as a designer, question what I

do, who it’s for and its end use. My collaboration

with many companies, from high street to high

fashion, have provided an opportunity to introduce

our products and aesthetic to a vast client base.

A few years ago, we decided to show our clothes

on a muse via an editorial campaign. The idea

was for someone who appreciated what we did,

and who joe public could relate to, to be seen

in our clothes in magazines and online. ►


How did Lou Dalton team-up with

British actor Russell Tovey?

I had admired Russell Tovey for some time, and,

thanks to social media, we struck-up a friendship.

Having been the unofficial face of the brand for

a few seasons, I was obviously thrilled when he

agreed to become the actual frontman as the

campaign star for the AW16 season. To date I have

produced four campaigns with Russell, which many

menswear magazines kindly supported, including

GQ, Fantastic Man and Man About Town, to name but

a few. I am currently looking into alternative ways

to showcase my collections and hope to pick-up

working with Russell again in the very near future.

Please tell The Cultured Traveller about

your collaborations with iconic British

knitwear brand John Smedley?

John Smedley is a well-respected, iconic British

knitwear company which I am honoured to be

collaborating with. John Smedley is striving to

encourage and help strengthen UK clothing

manufacturing. I was fortunate enough to be one of

the designers the brand chose to collaborate with.

Working with such an established company gives

incredible reassurance to a buyer regarding the

delivery of products and the quality of the making.

What did you last wear when

on the red carpet?

For the 2017 British Fashion Awards, I wore a Dries

Van Noten high-collared black shirt, Marni black

pleated skirt, Marni shoes, Falke opaque tights,

Prada earrings and a Lou Dalton black lacquered

swing overcoat from my AW16 collection.

Which of your collections do you think has

most defined you as a designer and why?

SS13 was a turning point for Lou Dalton as a

label, because the likes of Liberty and Dover Street

Market started to retail the collection. AW16 was

an incredibly personal collection and related to a

special time I spent in Shetland. AW16 was also

the first collection that Russell Tovey fronted and

is still very much one of my favourites. For AW17 I

decided to present the collection in a studio, rather

than show it on a catwalk, which was like turning

a new page and start a new chapter. Since then,

the brand has gone from strength-to-strength. ►


AW19 marks the beginning of a collaboration

with archetypal luxury British designer brand

Gloverall, which is famous for its duffle coats.

We know that you’re very much into

art. Who are you favourite artists?

When I like an artist and their work, I tend to stick

with it regardless of whether it’s in fashion one

minute or out the next. Rachel Whiteread, Wolfgang

Tillmans, Rebecca Horn, John Currin, Cindy Sherman,

David Hockney, Francis Bacon, Ben Nicholson and

Barbara Hepworth will all, forever, inspire me.

What music are you listening

to at the moment?

I have an eclectic, ongoing Spotify playlist that I

keep building from day-to-day. It includes music I

listened to as a kid - including The Fall, The Smiths

and Joy Division - through to A Guy Called Gerald,

Raze, Joe Smooth and Andrew Weatherall. You’ll

also find Roy Orbison, Ry Cooder and Robert Plant

in there. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea but it’s mine!

Where is home for you right now, and

what’s the best and worst thing about it?

London. The best thing about living in the British

capital, is that although the streets are not paved

with gold, being in London instils you with the

belief that you can do and be whatever you

want. The worst is that my fiancé Justin isn’t in

London as much as I would like him to be!

Favourite hotel in the world and why?

Glengorm Castle on the Isle of Mull in Scotland.

More a country house than a castle, Glengorm was

built in the 1860s and overlooks the Sound of Mull,

Ardnamurchan Peninsula and outlying islands.

My first holiday with Justin was a road trip around

Scotland. Singing along to Loretta Lynn as we were

driving, we ended up on the Isle of Mull. Glengorm

is a wonderfully magical place and still family run I

believe. At sunset the Outer Hebrides are stunningly

vivid in the distance. (www.glengormcastle.co.uk)

Any travel tips for our readers?

Take the time to read up on where you

are going. Being a little informed always

comes in culturally handy. ►


What four items can you not do without

in your hand luggage on a flight?

Wet wipes, Elizabeth Arden Eight-Hour Cream

(developed in the 1930s but still one of the best skin

protectants on sale today), hand cream and a pillow.

Any holiday plans for 2019?

Palma for a week of sun, the Yorkshire Dales

to walk part of the Pennine Way, and Baku

to spend some time with my man!

Favourite place to eat in the world?

Kennedy’s of London serves the best fish and chips

in town and I often take the team to eat there when

we have finished a collection. There’s usually a

fleet of London cabs lined-up outside Kennedy’s

- not waiting for a fare, but inside grabbing a

bite to eat! (www.kennedyslondon.co.uk)

What do you do to relax?

The usual: read, go to the cinema and theatre,

listen to music, see exhibitions and travel. I

work a lot, so any time away from fashion

feels like a luxury. I have recently been going

to the gym a lot, since they say that exercise

is good for the mind, body and your soul.

With Lou Dalton being picked up by Bergdorf

Goodman in New York and Browns in London

recently, amongst others, it feels like the

brand is really gaining traction at home and

abroad. What do you put this down to?

A change in approach to the business and what we

do. I spent many seasons putting together catwalk

show after catwalk show, losing huge amounts of

cash as well as my mind. Taking stock of who we

are and what we do helped me to identify what my

strengths were as a designer and as a business.

And working with established companies that

have a strong manufacturing machine in place has

helped bring to life a more focused contemporary

collection which is both affordable and well-made.

Lou Dalton is very popular in Japan

where a number of retailers stock the

brand. What do you think particularly

appeals to the Japanese market? ►


Working with John Smedley and Gloverall of course

strengthens Lou Dalton’s appeal since they both have

strong footfall within Japan. Saying that, I believe that

our approach to design for the last couple of seasons,

focusing on core contemporary garments, has also

heavily influenced the increased interest from Japan.

The brand is launching an online

store for SS19. What challenges does

this present to the business?

This will be our second attempt at retailing via our

own e-store. When I chose to pull away from the

catwalk, I also called time on the online store, not

least because we were spending a lot of cash with

little return. This time the online focus is to offer

a slightly more bespoke service, with garments

being made to order and a slightly longer delivery

window of 4-5 days. Although customers like to

buy instantly as it were, sustainability has also

become increasingly important. There is too much

product out there, online, and a lot of wastage in the

industry. So, whilst I do believe that it is key for the

brand to have an online presence, I believe it is my

responsibility to be mindful on what we produce,

where we produce and how much we produce.

Talk us through your inspiration for

Lou Dalton’s AW19 collection?

For Autumn/Winter 2019, I looked to the individuals

who have historically challenged the “false reality”

created by incumbent rulers and regimes. I took

inspiration from the “severe style” movement,

namely Azerbaijani painter and draughtsman

Tahir Salahov, adopted the utilitarian silhouettes

of the industrial workers depicted in such works,

and combined them with the sparing palette of

contrasting vibrant and muted tones originally used

to accurately portray true life in the Soviet 1960s.

What changes do you see on the

horizon for the menswear market?

Considering Brexit and general world affairs, and at

a time when global greed and domination are rife, as

consumers it’s inevitable that we will all be affected.

I think a desire to own less and be more resourceful

is key. One needs to be open to change. And I believe

that sustainability will become more important within

the menswear sector over the next few seasons.

www.loudalton.com


2

2019 F1 AUSTRALIAN GRAND PRIX

www.australia-grand-prix.com/en

25HOURS HOTELS www.25hours-hotels.com

A

ALL NIPPON AIRWAYS www.ana.co.jp/en/gb

ANDBEYOND TENGILE RIVER LODGE

www.andbeyond.com

APRON www.restaurant-apron.at

ARTĚL www.artelglass.com

B

BANYAN TREE UNGASAN

www.banyantree.com/en/indonesia/ungasan-bali

BLACK ANGELS www.blackangelsbar.com

BRIGHTON FESTIVAL www.brightonfestival.org

C

CAFÉ MYŠÁK www.mysak.ambi.cz/en

CAPE TOWN JAZZ FESTIVAL www.capetownjazzfest.com

CASA TELMO www.casatelmo.com

CIHELNA CONCEPT STORE www.cihelnaprague.com

CINCO DE MAYO www.everfest.com

COACHELLA http://www.coachella.com

COMO www.comohotels.com/umaparo

CONRAD BORA BORA NUI www.conradhotels.com

CZECH CUBSIM AT THE HOUSE

OF THE BLACK MADONNA www.czkubismus.cz/en

D

DANDY dandyprague.com

DANIEL MÜELLER-SCHOTT

www.daniel-mueller-schott.com/en

DENISA NOVÁ www.denisanova.cz/en

DIVINIS www.divinis.cz


www.dox.cz/en

DUBAI WORLD CUP www.dubaiworldcup.com

DUOMO PRESIDENTIAL SUITE HOTEL SAVOY, FLORENCE

www.roccofortehotels.com

F

FIELD www.fieldrestaurant.cz

FINNAIR www.finnair.com/gb/gb

FRIDA HULTEN fridahulten.com

G

GIN & TONIC CLUB www.gintonicclub.com

GINGER & FRED gfrest.cz/en

GIRONA FLOWER FESTIVAL

www.gironatempsdeflors.cat

GLASSIMO www.glassimo.eu

GUCCI GARDEN

www.gucci.com/us/en/store/osteria-bottura

H

HARDDECORE www.harddecore.cz

HAY FESTIVAL www.hayfestival.com/wales

HEMINGWAY BAR www.hemingwaybar.cz/bar-praha

HILLBILLY hillbilly.cz

HOLI www.goindia.about.com

HOP-ON HOP-OFF TOURS PRAGUE

city-sightseeing.com/en/102/prague

HOTEL CENTURY OLD TOWN PRAGUE

- MGALLERY BY SOFITEL www.accorhotels.com

HOTEL FASANO RIO DE JANEIRO www.fasano.com.br

HOTEL INTERNATIONAL, PRAGUE internationalprague.cz

HYATT REGENCY KYOTO kyoto.regency.hyatt.com

HOTEL SAVOY www.roccofortehotels.com

I

ITB BERLIN www.itb-berlin.de

K

KETTNER’S TOWNHOUSE

www.kettnerstownhouse.com

KUBISTA www.kubista.cz

KUCHYŇ kuchyn.ambi.cz/en

KYOTO CITY OFFICIAL TRAVEL GUIDE

kyoto.travel/en/shrine_temple/159

KYOTO KITCHO www.kyoto-kitcho.com

KYOTO TRAVEL GUIDE kyoto.travel/en

L

LAS FALLAS www.visitvalencia.com

LOU DALTON www.loudalton.com

LUCERNA MUSIC BAR www.musicbar.cz/en

M

MALÝ VINOGRAF www.vinograf.cz



MANZARA www.manzara.co.jp/gion

MATSUHISA PARIS www.raffles.com/paris

MIAVANA timeandtideafrica.com/camp/miavana


www.upm.cz

N

NAGHOL LAND DIVING www.vanuatu.travel

NEBOZIZEK www.nebozizek.cz/cz/restaurant

NEXT DOOR BY IMPERIAL www.next-door.cz/en

O

ONE ROOM HOTEL

www.towerpark.cz/en/hotel-one-room

P

PRAGUE AIRPORT TRANSFERS

www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk

PRAGUE CASTLE

www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors

PROPER HOTEL

www.properhotel.com/hotels/san-francisco

S

SAGANO ROMANTIC TRAIN

www.sagano-kanko.co.jp/en

SANTA CLARITA COWBOY FESTIVAL

www.cowboyfestival.org

SANTARENA HOTEL www.santarenahotel.com

SIX SENSES BHUTAN

www.sixsenses.com/resorts/bhutan/destination

SNOWBOMBING www.snowbombing.com

SOFITEL PARIS LE FAUBOURG

www.sofitel-paris-lefaubourg.com

SONGKRAN www.songkranday.com

SPICES RESTAURANT & BAR www.mandarinoriental.com

ST. PATRICK’S DAY www.stpatricksfestival.ie

SUIRAN HOTEL KYOTO www.suirankyoto.com/hassui

T

TCHERASSI HOTELS www.tcherassihotels.com/en

THE LOREN www.thelorenhotel.com

THRISSUR POORAM ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

www.thrissurpooramfestival.com

TRUNK (HOTEL) trunk-hotel.com

U

ULTRA MUSIC FESTIVAL ultramusicfestival.com

W

WALDORF ASTORIA BEVERLY HILLS

www.waldorfastoriabeverlyhills.com

WILD FRONTIERS wildfrontierstravel.com


SOFITEL LONDON ST JAMES

Step into a world of refined comfort,

where timeless French elegance

embraces bold British Tradition.

6 WATERLOO PLACE - LONDON SW1Y 4AN - UNITED KINGDOM

TEL: +44 (0)20 7747 2200 - WWW.SOFITELSTJAMES.COM

Sofitel London St Jam es

Life is Magnifique in London!

Th e Rose Lounge

Th e Balcon

DISCOVER THIS MAGNIFIQUE ADDRESS IN LONDON.

SOFITEL LONDON ST JAMES IS A GRADE II-LISTED FIVE-STAR HOTEL IN A PRIME WEST END LOCATION. TRADITIONAL

BRITISH DESIGN MIXES WITH MODERN FRENCH ELEGANCE. THE HOTEL FEATURES A STYLISH ALL-DAY DINING RESTAURANT, THE

BALCON, WITH A PRIVATE DINING ROOM FOR UP TO 20 GUESTS, THE CHIC ST JAMES BAR WITH ITS SIGNATURE

COCKTAILS AND A COSY ROSE LOUNGE IDEAL FOR AFTERNOON TEA. THE DINING DESTINATION IN THE HEART OF LONDON.

(25) The Cultured Traveller, March-May 2019 Issue 25

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