(19) The Cultured Traveller - Third Anniversary Edition, October-November 2017 Issue 19

THIRD ANNIVERSARY EDITION

ISSUE 19

OCT-NOV 2017

KATHMANDU

PARIS • MALLORCA • MANAMA • BODRUM

GLORIA ESTEFAN • SHOPPING IN MAYFAIR • RICHARD SANDOVAL

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4 The Cultured Traveller Oct-Nov 2017

THIRD ANNIVERSARY EDITION

HIGHLIGHTS

OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2017 ISSUE 19

174 QUEEN OF LATIN POP

International pop icon GLORIA ESTEFAN has achieved pretty much

everything in the music world, not least winning seven Grammys and

selling more than 100 million albums. In a rare and exclusive in-depth

interview, Nicholas Chrisostomou chats with the Dr Beat and Conga

singer about making it big with Miami Sound Machine, 39 years of

marriage to Emilio, her life-changing accident, and how it feels to

watch her personal love story play out on stage.

50 CAPTIVATING KATHMANDU

KATHMANDU is one of the few capitals left in the world which is utterly

authentic, but visiting is definitely not for the faint hearted or

inexperienced traveller. One must actively seek out and scratch below

the city’s surface to uncover its many riches. But investing time to truly

explore the Nepalese capital, rewards adventurous travellers with

intense spiritual and unique cultural experiences, combining centuries

of fascinating history, deep religion and glorious traditions.

22 WINDSWEPT HOSPITALITY HAVEN

Southern Patagonia has long lured travellers by its spellbinding

landscapes and storied peaks carved by age-old glaciers. Located on

the eastern border of Chile's Torres del Paine National Park, celebrated

Chilean architect Cazú Zegers’ visually stunning TIERRA PATAGONIA

HOTEL & SPA makes an immediate and lasting impression, like a

prehistoric animal fossil beached on the shore of a lake.

148 BOGOTÁ’S BEST RESTAURANT?

The Colombian capital is a veritable foodie playground, aplomb with a

wide variety of restaurants spanning every price point and taste

sensation. Nowhere is the country’s homegrown culinary talent more

evident than MESA FRANCA, a social and intimate eatery that is taking

the country’s food status to new gastronomic heights.

48 DELUXE TWIN CENTRE PRIZE

Creating unforgettable holiday experiences all over the world, luxury

hospitality brand Anantara has two luxe resorts on the Indian Ocean

island of Sri Lanka, and the winner of this incredible prize will get to

spend three nights at each of them – ANANTARA PEACE HAVEN

TANGALLE RESORT and ANANTARA KALUTARA RESORT – including

half board for two guests, transfers, a 90-minute couples’ spa

treatment and a bespoke dining experience.

CONTENTS

50

90

20

114

12

102

8 EDITOR’S LETTER

Our Editor-in-Chief, Nicholas

Chrisostomou, takes stock of three

years of The Cultured Traveller.

10 CONTRIBUTORS

12 NEWSFLASH

TCT rounds up the most notable events,

festivals and happenings taking place

in October and November 2017 around

our colourful planet, including

Thailand’s bizarre (and excruciatingly

painful for some) VEGETARIAN

FESTIVAL, the annual ALBA

INTERNATIONAL WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR in

Northern Italy, five-day chocfest SALON

DU CHOCOLATE in Paris, India’s

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR, Mexico’s 3,000

year-old DÍA DE LOS MUERTOS, and

swashbuckling PIRATES WEEK in the

Cayman Islands.

20 REST YOUR HEAD

Our bimonthly selection of a dozen

hospitality establishments worth

checking into, includes luxury Austrian

health retreat LANSERHOF LANS which

recently underwent an eight-month

US$ 26 million renovation, 49-room

boutique music-themed ARIA HOTEL in

the Hungarian capital of Prague,

ONYADO CHIKURINTEI in the historic

Japanese prefecture of Saga, and

VENTANA BIG SUR located on one of

the world's most unforgettable

stretches of coastline.

90 SUITE ENVY

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, BODRUM is a

sprawling, ultra-elite 67-hectare resort

of luxe rooms, suites, apartments and

villas, all of which are amongst the

largest five-star lodgings on the

peninsula. Nicholas Chrisostomou

checks in to 145m 2 of beautifully

designed Mediterranean Suite bliss,

complete with lush garden, private

swimming pool and spectacular views

across Paradise Bay.

102 BOARDING PASS

High fashion isn’t exactly the first thing

that springs to mind when you step

onto a plane and are greeted by the

cabin crew. But for every dowdy

uniform on-board today's airlines,

there’s an incredibly rich history of

stylish designer airline threads that

stretches back to the golden age of

aviation. The Cultured Traveller team

charts the HISTORY OF GLAMOUR IN

THE SKY, from 1930 to the present day.

114 NO SHOES REQUIRED

Blessed with 300 days of sun every

year, together with warm

temperatures that stretch from spring

48

124

174

134

‘til mid-October, Mallorca has

something for everyone, and hence

has been one of Europe’s most popular

holiday destinations for decades. Alex

Benasuli takes a jaunt to the beautiful

Balearic island for a helping of end of

season Spanish sun at classic

full-service deluxe resort, ST. REGIS

MARDAVALL.

124 SPOTLIGHT

In the heart of the world’s most

fashionable city, THE PENINSULA PARIS

is a magnificently restored

neo-classical palace with walls that

could tell a thousand tales – of Proust

and Picasso, war heroes and villains,

international peace treaties and

romantic rendezvous. Dawn Gibson

finds out how the Grande Dame of La

Belle Époque is setting new standards

for top-tier hospitality luxury.

134 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Few people realise when they land in

Bahrain that they have actually touched

down in the country’s capital, MANAMA,

a city so influenced by the Portuguese

and Persians that it’s overflowing with

must-see sites. Dilraz Kunnummal

gives us her insider guide to the bustling

Gulf metropolis, which is as renowned

throughout the region for its vibrant

nightlife scene as it is for its Middle

Eastern authenticity.

156 TASTE & SIP INTERVIEW

Renowned chef and restaurateur

RICHARD SANDOVAL has mastered

modern and coastal Mexican,

Latin-Asian, Peruvian and Pan-Latin

cuisines, and is the hands-on operator

of more than forty restaurants around

the world, stretching out from his

Denver base. The Cultured Traveller

chats with the Latin gastronomic

powerhouse on the eve of opening new

outlets in Abu Dhabi and Aspen.

168 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER

Ashlee Starratt feasts on Southern

Californian cuisine in the heart of the

Middle East, at Doha’s colourful new

culinary tour-de-force SANTA MONICA

BREAKFAST CLUB.

194 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

Only in one exclusive London district

will you find high fashion and designer

stores side-by-side with private

members clubs, a jeweller to the stars,

a butcher and the Queen of England’s

gun and rifle maker! Dawn Gibson and

Nicholas Chrisostomou take a stroll

through upmarket MAYFAIR, which is

still a refreshingly eccentric British

blend of old and new.

204 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

168

156

194 148

Oct-Nov 2017 The Cultured Traveller 7

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EDITOR’S

LETTER

It was a toss-up whether to feature on the cover of this, our

third birthday edition, Latin pop queen Gloria Estefan against

a dreamy Miami backdrop – or the Nepalese gent casually

smoking a cigarette in his little shop, who smiled for me while

in Kathmandu this summer.

I was buying Gloria’s music in my teens, when records were

only made of vinyl and came in two sizes. Little did I know back

then that such a global music icon would speak to me, decades

later, about her incredible life story. She may have won seven

Grammys and sold more than 100 million albums, but Gloria's

story is also one of struggle, pain, tears, and, most of all,

overcoming the seemingly impossible – which in her case was

breaking her back in a terrible accident 25 years ago.

Kathmandu was one of the most demanding yet rewarding

press trips I’ve experienced to date. Must-see sights, eateries

and venues were not delivered on a platter as they so often are.

On the contrary, a considerable amount of research, time and

genuine graft went into this issue’s City Focus article, which

necessitated me spending a week in the capital of Nepal, quite

literally scraping away layers of dirt to reveal the city’s beautiful

underbelly. Since we’re not Vanity Fair or Rolling Stone, Gloria

got bumped from the cover by the gentleman you see now. But

their stories send the

same message – that

where there’s a will

there’s a way. Gloria

miraculously walked

and performed again

after her paralysing

accident. The Nepalese

shopkeeper somehow

survived the devastating

Gorkha earthquake of

two years ago and lived

to smile for another

annoying tourist.

In 2014 The Cultured Traveller was but an idea I dreamt up on a

small beach in Cyprus. Somewhat bored by glossy holiday

magazines full of irrelevant advertising and paid editorial, I was

sure I could create something more slick, light-hearted and

easy to absorb, without bombarding readers with clothing and

jewellery ads in a travel publication. Three years later here we

are – going strong and every day getting a little better at what

we do. I thank all of you, our readers, for the opportunity to

meet the Gloria Estefans and Nepalese shopkeepers of this

incredible planet we live on, and hope that you continue to

enjoy reading The Cultured Traveller as much as we enjoy

working on delivering it to you.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief

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CONTRIBUTORS

DAWN GIBSON

SPOTLIGHT

Dawn Gibson is a multi-tasking journalist who is passionate about travel, fashion, food, culture

and the arts. Never happier than when about to board a plane en route to a far-flung part of the

globe, she is also a keen scuba diver always in search of the perfect coral reef. Dawn has worked

as a senior news reporter for a leading city daily newspaper in Australia and as editor for a glossy

lifestyle magazine in the Middle East. Her work has appeared in numerous international print and

online publications, including Qatar Airways’ first class magazine Oryx Premium.

ALEX BENASULI

NO SHOES REQUIRED

Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City, he would

accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany.

A successful two-decade career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey,

Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East. Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and

part-time teacher, Alex has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban

travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

KATHERINE ARAUJO

TASTE & SIP REVIEW

Born and raised in Cali, Colombia’s salsa capital, Katherine Araujo had the good fortune of growing up

with a close affinity to Colombian cuisine thanks to her mother, and inherited delicious traditional

recipes from her grandma. Araujo studied cooking and hospitality management in Argentina and

Switzerland and likes nothing more than seeing the world and eating great food. Today, she

co-publishes the only restaurant guide in Colombia, travels the country researching and selecting the

best establishments for the handbook, and steers foodies to the hottest eateries throughout Colombia.

ASHLEE STARRATT

TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER

Ashlee Starratt is a Canadian editor and journalist based out of Doha, Qatar. With a passion for

story-telling, if it’s lifestyle, wellness, travel or food, she’s probably written about it. With a background

in print media and television across Canada and the Middle East, Ashlee has worked as Editorial

Director for Qatar Happening and ABODE magazines, as a reporter, videographer and host for

www.haligonia.ca, and as a producer for Pink Dog Productions out of Halifax, Nova Scotia. She can be

found on her travels, collecting stamps in her passport, in search of stories that need to be told.


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BFI LONDON

FILM FESTIVAL

UK

Featuring 243 films

hailing from 67 countries,

screened in 15 cinemas over twelve

days just about sums up the 61 st

annual BFI London Film Festival,

which showcases original movies by

both world-renowned and emerging

filmmakers. This year’s opening night

gala, Breathe, is a moving true story

of courage under profound

difficulties, courtesy of first-time

director and acclaimed British actor

Andy Serkis. Also not to be missed, is

the American Express Gala, Battle of

The Sexes, about the legendary 1973

tennis match between Billie Jean King

(played by Emma Stone) and Bobby

VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL

THAILAND

Legend has it that a

wandering Chinese opera

company fell ill with Malaria while

performing in Phuket, and, in order to

beat the disease, adopted a strict

vegetarian diet, prayed intensely for

purification of their bodies and minds

and somehow cured themselves.

Having made a miraculous recovery,

the group celebrated by originating

an annual festival to honour the gods.

Attended by thousands, today

Phuket’s vegetarian festival

celebrates a belief that abstinence

from meat during the ninth month of

the Asian lunar calendar will bring

about good health and peace of mind.

However, what the festival is really

famous for, is the ritualised

mutilation devotees subject

themselves to in order to prove their

devotion and venerate their gods and

ancestors. Whilst most use skewers

to pierce both cheeks and thread

objects through the holes, for some

the festival seems to be an

opportunity to see who can have the

most bizarre objects sticking out of

their faces.

1-9 October 2017

www.phuketvegetarian.com

Riggs played by Steve Carell. This

playful true story of the 1970s gender

wars - played out on the tennis court

while the world watched - makes for

a rousing and funny film. For priority

London Film Festival booking, join the

BFI from just GBP 35 for a full year’s

membership.

4-15 October 2017

www.bfi.org.uk/lff


CAFE BUDAPEST

CONTEMPORARY

ARTS FESTIVAL

HUNGARY

The 26 th incarnation of

Hungary’s CAFe Budapest

offers more than one hundred

programs at over forty venues across

the city - including the city’s

enormous cultural complex,

Művészetek Palotája - with many

offering free entry. Spanning

seventeen days, besides the work of

Hungarian-born composer Béla

Bartók, the other focuses of this year’s

festival will be Israel and Jewish art

and artists. The festival program

always covers an incredibly wide

spectrum and showcases a range of

musical genres and performance art,

from classical music to theatre

premieres, popular music and jazz, to

dance and visual art, as well as

providing a platform for contemporary

dance, circus acts, fine arts, design

and photography. For 2017, CAFe

Budapest affiliated events will again

include the Budapest Ritmo world

music festival, the Mercedes-Benz

Fashion Week Central Europe, the Art

Market Budapest, and the Autumn

Margin Literary Festival and Book Fair.

6-22 October 2017

www.cafebudapestfest.hu

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS MUSIC FESTIVAL

USA

Held annually at Zilker

Park in the south of

Austin - a beautiful recreational area

of more than 350 acres at the

juncture of Barton Creek and the

Colorado River - ACL Fest was

founded more than 15 years ago and

spans two consecutive three-day

weekends. Boasting eight stages

filled with musical groups from a

variety of genres, including rock,

indie, country, folk, electronic and hip

hop, in addition to the numerous live

performances, the festival showcases

local foods, art and crafts. The 2017

line-up includes Jay-Z, Red Hot Chili

Peppers, Martin Garrix, The Killers,

Gorillaz and Solange. If you want to

see even more, keep the party going

at one of the many official ACL late

ITALY

Real Italian food oozes

intense flavours and

unique aromas cultivated for

generations. To coincide with the late

autumn harvest period of the tartufo

bianco, the pretty town of Alba,

nestled in the Piedmont region of

northern Italy about an hour by car

from Turin, hosts its annual

international white truffle fair. From

early October to late November, Alba

plays host to international chefs,

gastronomy buffs, oenophiles and

travelling foodies all seeking to

indulge in the decadent, aromatic and

wildly exclusive white truffles.

Cleaned, meticulously preserved and

shaved sparingly over pasta, risotto,

grilled vegetables and just about

everything else, the addition of

truffles elevates Italian cuisine to new

night shows at some of the city’s best

venues. From Stubb’s to Emo’s Austin

and The Historic Scoot Inn, a variety

of the city’s legendary venues will

host some wicked late-night parties.

6-8 + 13-15 October 2017

www.aclfestival.com

ALBA INTERNATIONAL WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR

gastronomic heights. Known as the

town of one hundred medieval

towers, Alba’s original centre is

beautifully preserved, so when not

feasting on the Italian foods, simply

strolling its streets with a gelato in

hand is one of life's great pleasures.

7 October - 26 November 2017

www.fieradeltartufo.org

ALBUQUERQUE

INTERNATIONAL

BALLOON FIESTA

USA

Now in its 46 th year, the

Albuquerque International

Balloon Fiesta brings together pilots,

crews and hot air and gas ballooning

enthusiasts from more than fifty

countries and routinely draws a

crowd of more than 100,000. With a

multitude of brightly coloured

balloons regularly taking flight, the

fiesta is an incredible week-long

visual spectacle. Mass morning

ascensions (when many hundreds of

balloons lift off into the morning sky),

are only given the green light after a

dawn patrol carefully examines the

weather conditions. Held on weekend

mornings plus one day mid-week,

the sight of hundreds of balloons

DIWALI

INDIA

India’s b

celebrat

referred to as The F

is an ancient five-d

physical and spiritu

celebrated on the 1

Hindu month of Ka

victory of light over

over despair and th

Sixth Guru. Guru H

rising together as dawn breaks over

the Sandia Mountains, is as

breathtaking for first-time visitors as

it continues to be for veteran

attendees. On Saturdays and

Sundays the nightly laser light and

“AfterGlow” firework shows bring the

days’ proceedings to a fittingly

spectacular close.

7-15 October 2017

www.balloonfiesta.com

freed from impriso

Mughal Emperor Ja

same time he man

52 political prisone

Fort. Hence Diwali

much annual rever

cheer. An importan

India, participants

before the festival

with friends and fa

food and exchangi

are festooned with

and at night, candl

torches and firewo

providing a spectac

light that symbolis

of inner light and t

good over evil.

19 October 2017

iggest annual

ion - commonly

estival of Lights -

ay festival of

al light,

5 th day of the

rtika, marking the

darkness, hope

e freedom of the

argobind Ji was

VOODOO MUSIC +

ARTS EXPERIENCE

USA

The Voodoo Music + Arts

Experience started out

small and has, over time, exploded

into a mega-event spanning several

ment in 1619 by

hangir, and at the

aged to release

rs from Gwalior

is the cause for

ence and good

t tradition in

clean their homes

and celebrate

mily by sharing

g gifts. Houses

electric lights,

es, lamps,

rks are lit,

ular display of

es the awareness

he triumph of

days and drawing some massive

music industry names. Over the

course of its 18-year history, this

weekend festival - whose motto is

“worship the music” - has hosted

thousands of artists and legions of

fans from all over the world,

attracting mystics, madmen, femme

fatales, gods, goddesses and music

lovers of all kinds under one collective

consciousness. Across the festival

grounds of New Orleans’ City Park,

Voodoo hosts interactive and

immersive large-scale art

installations, the Brew Dat Beer Hall, a

handcrafted shopping experience at

the Market Place, and more. This

year’s festival is headlined by Foo

Fighters, Kendrick Lamar, The Killers

and LCD Soundsystem. VIP and

platinum packages offer prime

viewing spots and respite from the

crowds in comfy lounges with private

facilities.

27-29 October 2017

www.voodoofestival.com

BRISBANE GOOD

FOOD SHOW

AUSTRALIA

The capital of Queensland

is a large, modern

metropolis brimming with

entrepreneurial zeal, cosmopolitan

young people, bohemian nightclubs

and world-class restaurants, so it’s

little surprise that Brisbane hosts one

of the country’s top food and wine

shows. Celebrating regionally sourced

and locally-produced foods and

wines, and showcasing artisan and

home-grown produce from within the

state and across Australia, Brisbane’s

Good Food Show offers everything

from master classes hosted by

leading chefs Matt Moran, George

Calombaris, Adam Liaw, Paul West

and Miguel Maestre, to “The Smelly

Cheese Project” presided over by a

resident cheese expert taking visitors

on a cheese appreciation journey that

provides a complete sensory

experience, and even a live Good

Food Theatre stage to learn the hints

of the best interstate chefs. For a

more exclusive experience, buy a

ticket for the Cape Mentelle VIP

Lounge and sip unlimited vino from

the Margaret River wine region in

West Australia.

27-29 October 2017

www.goodfoodshow.com.au/brisbane/

SALON DU CHOCOLAT

FRANCE

Dubbed the world's

largest event dedicated to

chocolate innovations and cocoa

expressions, Salon Du Chocolat is a

unique happening revered by

chocolate aficionados the world over.

Now in its 23 rd year, the decadent

annual chocfest is held in the heart of

the French capital at the Porte de

Versailles Exhibition Center, which

provides tons of space to host

hundreds of international chocolatiers.

Visitors have a unique opportunity to

discover and taste chocolate products

not found anywhere else, courtesy of

more than 500 chocolatiers and

confectioners hailing from 60

countries on 5 continents, including

more than 200 of the world’s greatest

pastry chefs and cocoa experts. The

highlight of the festival is undoubtedly

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR

INDIA

The somewhat sleepy

lakeside Indian town of

Pushkar, bordering the Thar Desert in

the northeastern state of Rajasthan,

springs to life every year for a unique

and incredibly colourful camel

pageant, which coincides with the

religious festival of Kartik Purnima

which sees thousands of devotees

bathe in Pushkar Lake on the last day.

Close to 50,000 camels are trimmed,

coiffured and decorated in order to be

entered into beauty contests and

raced. Adorned with silver bells and

bangles around their hoofs, and

embellished with all manner of vibrant

adornments, they are paraded past

the golden sand dunes to an excited

crowd and intense judging. Aside from

the thousands of camels also traded

The Chocolate Fashion Show (on 27 th

October), when 15 duos of chocolatiers

and fashion designers showcase an

incredible collection of couture outfits

made entirely out of chocolate. New

for 2017, The Japan Area will showcase

to groups of 30, unusual combinations

of Japanese culinary staples married

with chocolate.


www.salonduchocolat.fr

during the course of the fair, other

livestock are haggled over, bought and

sold, as well as local textiles, arts and

crafts, saddles, jewellery and a variety

of camel finery and embellishments.


www.pushkar-camel-fair.com


VILLAGE

HALLOWEEN PARADE

USA

New York City’s 44 th

annual Village Halloween

Parade is billed as “The nation’s most

wildly creative public participatory

event in the greatest city in the world!”

This vast and vibrant event sees more

than 50,000 costumed party goers,

attired in ghoulish fancy dress, line-up

at 6 th Avenue at Canal Street to set off

on a mammoth parade, together with

hundreds of puppets, bands of varying

musical styles, dancers, circus

performers and floats. Founded in 1974

by mask-maker and puppeteer Ralph

Lee, this massive public participatory

gathering attracts millions of

spectators and embodies a different

theme each year, this year’s being

“Cabinet of Curiosities: An Imaginary

Menagerie”. Master puppeteers Alex

Kahn and Sophia Michahelles, together

with their posse of official parade

puppeteers, will lead the way with a

bestiary of flamboyant and fantastic

hybrids, closely followed by members

of the Manhattan public sporting their

own multi-coloured creations.

31 October 2017

www.halloween-nyc.com

DÍA DE LOS

MUERTOS

MEXICO

Tracing to the

pre-Columbian era, at the

beginning of every November in the

city of Oaxaca (approximately 280

miles southeast of Mexico City),

3,000-year old Día de los Muertos is

celebrated for three days, during

which the dead are honoured and

their souls welcomed home as a

blessing. During this annual festival,

images abound of the iconic,

animated skeletons called calaveras,

invented by 19 th century printmaker

Jose Guadalupe Posada, and

popularised by artist Diego Rivera.

October 31 st is prep day, when the

women clean the house and prepare

food while the guys build clay altars.

November 1 st is dedicated to children

and infants - Día de los Angelitios

(Day of the Little Angels). The main

event on 2 nd November - Día de los

Muertos - is usually an adult affair,

with bigger and more elaborate

costumes, more complex rituals,

spicier foods and lots of tequila.


www.festivaldevidaymuerte.com

PIRATES WEEK

CAYMAN ISLANDS

If you enjoy the revelry of

swashbucklers combined

with a western Caribbean climate

complete with beach resorts, varied

scuba diving and multitude of

snorkelling sites, Pirates Week is

undoubtedly the best time to be in the

Caymans. Every November, pirates

run amok throughout the islands in

this family-friendly festival that

brings to life the famous Pirates of

the Caribbean, complete with

simulated pirate invasions, parties

and fancy dressed revellers at the end

of every gangplank. Whilst festivities

take place on Cayman Brac (3-5 Nov)

and Little Cayman (7-19 Nov), the

main event happens on Grand

Cayman (9-13) where five fun filled

days will mark Pirates Week’s 40 th

anniversary. Whilst Heritage Days on

each island will bring together each

district in one place, for 2017

spectators will also enjoy a series of

parades and fireworks displays, street

dances, costume contests, sporting

competitions, happy hours and music

stretching across all three islands.

3-19 November 2017

www.piratesweekfestival.com

FICKSBURG

CHERRY FESTIVAL

SOUTH AFRICA

On the edge of the

mountain kingdom of

Lesotho, in the foothills of South

Africa’s Maluti Mountains, is the

unassuming town of Ficksburg.

Surrounded by undulating hills and

set against a spectacular mountain

backdrop, unsurprisingly Ficksburg is

a popular destination for

holidaymakers touring the rainbow

nation. But what makes Ficksburg

stand out even more, is that it is

apparently the “Cherry Capital of the

HIGANTES FESTIVAL

PHILIPPINES

Arguably the arts capital

of the Philippines, Angono

in Rizal has continuously attracted art

lovers from across the nation, not to

mention globally. Originally scheduled

to coincide with the festival of Pope St.

Clement, the town comes alive every

year during Higantes, when towering

5 or 6-metre tall papier-mâché giants

- designed to express a person’s

character or a unique idea and painted

in vibrant colours - parade through

the streets much to the joy of

vivacious crowds. According to the

locals, this practice began when locals

in Angono created a dummy to portray

a mean landlord who was best

recognized by his foul mannerisms

and imposing height. For tourists

visiting Angono, a detour to the Blanco

Family museum gives an insight to the

origins of this fascinating festival,

including a large collection of giant

higantes fashioned by renowned

higante designer Argana Tori.

22-23 November 2017

ofm@angono.gov.ph

World”. To reinforce this title, every

year the town hosts a three-day

cherry extravaganza, which also

happens to be the longest running

crop festival in South Africa, dating

back to 1968. Whilst fifty years ago

the main events were street parades,

a “Cherry Ball” and the crowning of

the "Cherry Queen”, in 2017

attendees will experience very

different activities. These include

wine and chocolate pairings, which,

as you can imagine given the

country’s superb wines, are very

popular indeed.

16-18 November 2017

www.cherryfestival.co.za

LOPBURI MONKEY BANQUET

THAILAND

About 150km north of

Bangkok in central

Thailand’s provincial capital of

Lopburi, around the same time as the

Americans celebrate Thanksgiving,

the last Sunday of November is

reserved for the Lopburi Monkey

Banquet. In this part of the world,

countless monkeys have adapted to

life in an urban environment and

become an inherent part of the local

culture. Despite their pick-pocketing

tendencies and unpredictable

attitudes, these fellow primates have

free reign of the metropolis and are

welcome to enter public buildings

and traverse roads just like any other

citizen. And once a year, the world’s

wildest dinner party is held in honour

of the city’s macaques monkeys, at

Prang Sam Yot, a historic Khmer

temple. As you can imagine, the sight

of some three thousand macaques

tucking into a lavish feast - which

includes tons of fresh produce, rice,

ice cream and other tasty monkey

treats - is quite a spectacle.

25-26 November 2017

www.discoverythailand.com


An Evening with

ΜΑRIO FRANGOULIS

WORLD’S MOST POWERFUL CLASSICAL CROSSOVER TENOR

PHOTO: ROULA REVI - DESIGN: DIMITRIS PANAGIOTAKOPOULOS

With the support of

NEW YORK . NOVEMBER 6

ROSE THEATER, JAZZ AT LINCOLN CENTER’S FREDERICK P. ROSE HALL

MONTREAL . NOVEMBER 9

THÉATRE MAISONNEUVE, PLACE DES ARTS

>

LOS ANGELES . NOVEMBER 11

THE WILSHIRE EBELL THEATRE

Tickets: www.mariofrangoulis.com

Rest Your Head

PATAGONIA, BUDAPEST, HỘI AN, SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO, ATHENS, PARIS

BIG SUR, TAKEO-ONSEN, NEW YORK CITY, MACAU, TORONTO, LANS

TIERRA PATAGONIA HOTEL & SPA

PATAGONIA, CHILE


PATAGONIA, CHILE

TIERRA PATAGONIA HOTEL & SPA

Stretching across Chile and Argentina, Southern Patagonia is chiefly a land of vast, desolate steppes, and has long lured

travellers by its spellbinding landscapes and storied peaks carved by age-old glaciers. In the countries’ numerous national

parks, snow-capped mountains, cobalt fjords and old-growth forests lend the region an inimitable

almost-the-end-of-the-world feel. At the southernmost tip of the Americas, high precipitation and cold air combine to

create huge glaciers that spill into numerous fjords, whilst icebergs rupture with dramatic roars from ancient, massive

glaciers. Located on the eastern border of Chile's Torres del Paine National Park, celebrated Chilean architect Cazú Zegers’

visually stunning Tierra Patagonia Hotel & Spa makes an immediate and lasting impression, like a prehistoric animal fossil

beached on the shore of the lake.

The shape of the building was dictated by the wind, a prominent natural element which is characteristic of the area, and

its form seeks to join the metaphysical landscape of the location to the structure. Meanwhile the hotel (lest we forget that it

is actually a hotel, rather than a massive art installation) is anchored to the ground with stone embankments and entirely

covered with panelling of washed lenga – a native wood which grows in Tierra del Fuego, one of the most southern places

on earth – in order to achieve the silver colouration common of water-corroded timber.

Inside, the remarkable building is dominated by immense floor-to-ceiling windows, which proffer extraordinary views

across Lago Sarmiento towards the breathtaking granite monoliths of the Cordillera del Paine mountains. It is impossible not

to be impressed by the dramatic surrounding Patagonian landscapes the hotel looks out upon. Throughout the building, the

playful interplay of wood ceilings, walls constructed from timber boards of differing lengths, and floorboards laid at angles

give the overall design an utterly unique feeling of energy and flow.

Whilst the hotel’s great room seamlessly unites a sitting area, bar, dining space and inviting fireplace, the forty guest

rooms (including three duplex suites) display largely the same aesthetic but are appointed with simple but smart furnishings

that impart an intimate elegance to their interiors. Bathrooms are well lit by natural light, and offer more dramatic views

alongside walk-in showers and deep tubs.

Days are spent hiking to spectacular mountain vistas (mostly led by Chilean guides) and returning for a swim or a

massage in the spa, and ended with a superb meal accompanied by Chilean wines as the sun sets on the rocky pinnacles in

the distance.

www.tierrahotels.com



BUDAPEST, HUNGARY

ARIA HOTEL

Straddling the wide river Danube, which separates hilly Buda from level Pest, the Hungarian capital today offers one of the

most striking metropolitan panoramas in Europe. Long hidden behind the Iron Curtain, in recent years Budapest has rightfully

regained its reputation as one of the most vibrant capitals of central Europe, not least for its ability to both embrace and

champion the past, present and future. Indeed, old frequently meets new during Budapest's renowned “spa parties”, held in

the city’s famed thermal baths. Meanwhile fine cuisine, buzzing cafés, happening nightlife, rich heritage and striking

turn-of-the-century buildings juxtaposed with contemporary modern-day architecture fill the city from corner to corner. But,

most of all, Budapest is a metropolis of music. From the classics of Bartók and Kodály to the contemporary fusion of folk,

klezmer, jazz and gypsy sounds, the Hungarian capital is positively alive with the sound of music.

Opened in 2015 in the footsteps of its sister property in Prague, the 49-room Aria Hotel is quite literally a music-themed

property. Whether you’re a music fanatic or simply a connoisseur of boutique city centre hotels, staying at Aria Hotel is one of

the funkiest places to rest your head in the Hungarian capital, and its unbeatable location will put you within easy walking

distance of the opera house, parliament building and Széchenyi Chain Bridge. Housed within a neoclassical former bank

which dates back to the 1880s (note the original spiral staircase), and the brainchild of Henry Kallan, president of New

York-based Library Hotel Collection, highlights include quite possibly one of the coolest rooftop bars in the city, boasting killer

views of the domes of St. Stephen’s Basilica, pictured. There are also an enticing subterranean spa and swimming pool, and a

soaring garden courtyard cum lobby, of which the centrepiece is a space-age piano, designed by the famed Hungarian

pianist Gergely Bogányi and one of only two such instruments in the world.

Bedrooms are spacious, modern, elegant, relatively unfussy and split into four wings, each representing a different

musical genre. Cream and blue dominate the lodgings in the classical wing, whilst contemporary rooms are much bolder and

brighter. All sport lots of marble and are enlivened by striking ornaments. Our favourite is the 66m² Romeo & Juliet suite, with

a king bedded room, separate lounge and access to a spacious semi-private balcony overlooking the charming cobblestone

street the hotel is situated on.

www.ariahotelbudapest.com

HỘI AN, VIETNAM

ATLAS HOTEL

An exceptionally well-preserved example of a typical Southeast Asian trading port, dating from the 15 th - 19 th centuries, the

ancient town of Hội An is an enticing destination to spend two or three days, with its lazy river lined with mustard-coloured

merchants’ houses, and soft sandy beaches a few kilometres away. Since cars and even motorbikes are banned from the

centre of Hội An, and the bicycle is king, the sprawling old town may be a little touristy, but its atmosphere verges on dreamy

and it can absorb a number of visitors without losing its relatively authentic Vietnamese feel.

Hội An largely owes its charmingly well-preserved state to the silting-up of the Thu Bồn river in the 19 th century. Whilst

this put an end to the town's importance as a trading post, it helped it to escape modern development and US bombing, the

cumulative result of which is what travellers enjoy today. But, in recent years, not least since it was officially recognised by

UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, the heart of the Old Town has grown a little too rapidly to capitalise on the burgeoning

tourism industry, and sadly many of its ancient houses have been converted into shops and restaurants. The neighbourhood

once well known for its beautiful tiled roofs and internal courtyards – which provided a layered, spatial quality between inner


and outer spaces – has slowly been eroded. Some would argue that the Old Town has lost a great deal of its original charm,

calmness and peaceful way of life.

Positioned on an irregular plot of land which its designers have used to give the 48-room property a unique character,

building Atlas hotel above the site completely freed-up the ground floor to create an inter-connected network of internal

courtyards. Whilst this spatial quality reflects the dynamism of the new linear Hội An, it also nods to the charm of the Old

Town and has been constructed so as not to further diminish the town’s original feel. And by installing more than 100

cantilevering concrete planters, lush greenery tumbles from all of the façades’ sandstone balconies, as well as along the

hotel’s narrow corridors and rooftop. The overall effect is a unique place to rest your head which gently yet effectively

reconnects guests with nature, whilst offering all the modern-day amenities a 21 st century city break vacationer demands,

including a restaurant, healthcare centre and spa, gym and swimming pool.

www.atlashoian.com

SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO, MEXICO

LAS VENTANAS AL PARAÍSO

A destination full of tremendous contrasts, from seas to deserts and mountains to lush countryside, Los Cabos is

also known as “Land’s End” for being situated at the tip of the Baja Peninsula, where the Pacific Ocean meets the

Sea of Cortez. There is literally something here for every type of holidaymaker, including unparalleled natural

beauty, biodiversity and a range of amenities to appeal to all personalities.

Consisting primarily of two towns – San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas – linked by a 20-mile corridor lined

with world-class resorts, championship golf courses and luxury hotels, to many travellers in the know, San José del

Cabo is the less energetic and slightly more sophisticated twin sister of Cabo San Lucas. Whilst Cabo San Lucas is

the party-loving Mexican wild child, her more sensible and elegant sibling, San José del Cabo, with art galleries,

colourful homes, delightful Plaza Mijares and charming shops, dotted throughout with beautiful jacaranda trees, is

the chosen locale for discerning holidaymakers dining at some of the best restaurants in the region.

In between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, deluxe 83-room Rosewood resort property, Las Ventanas Al

Paraíso, occupies a generous swathe of oceanfront land, a vast proportion of which is dedicated to the art of

pampering its lucky guests.

There is no reception at Las Ventanas. Instead, your affable personal butler greets you on arrival with a

margarita, your bags disappear and your vacation is underway.

A meandering network of terraces, suites, pools, eateries and bars, combined with such intense attention to

detail the like of which most will never have experienced before, make this Mexican-cum-Mediterranean resort one

of the most exquisite locations on the Pacific. Furnished with the works of local artisans, from tapestries and

murals to hand-carved cedar doors and terracotta fireplaces, every inch of Las Ventanas connects the property with

its surroundings and local culture, everything skilfully evoking the essence of Mexico’s Baja region. Dishes at the

Sea Grill are served raw or cooked using a wood-burning grill or oven. The incredible spa has a hydro-thermal

system. The service is attentive in a way that only a mind-reader could possibly provide. In short, Las Ventanas is a

dream Mexican vacation destination.

www.rosewoodhotels.com


TAKING LUXURY TO NEW HEIGHTS

As temperatures drop the summer haze clears and immaculate blue sky

days followed by crystal clear nights awash with the brightest stars. Take

advantage of the perfect winter climate and make luxuriously spacious

suites your home from which to explore the beautiful and fascinating

areas in Oman.

Conquer the region’s highest and most exhilarating via ferrata, hike

through abounded mountain villages or simply unwind in the elegant

haven of Spa Alila and indulge in culinary experience which embraces

the best of Omani and international cuisine.

#AlilaJabalAkhdar

@alilajabalakhdar

ATHENS, GREECE

ATHENSWAS HOTEL

The Greek capital is a city where ancient history lies side by side with modern society, fashion, culture, food, art and

music. At every turn, ancient ruins form part of Athens’ unique urban landscape. Whether dining atop the iconic

Hotel Grande Bretagne on eye level with the Acropolis, or looking at ruins of the partially excavated ancient city

adjacent to a modern built-up area, Athens is awash with culture and history.

Plaka is like a village within the city, located in the shadow of the Acropolis, and exudes a somewhat cutesy

island feel for those who don't have the time to visit the stunning Greek Islands. AthensWas is located on the edge

of Plaka, on cobbled pedestrianised Dionysiou Areopagitou, lined by plane trees and just two blocks from the

Acropolis Museum. Part of the so-called “archaeological promenade” which leads from the Temple of Olympian

Zeus to the Acropolis, the hotel is in the perfect location for those who enjoy the hustle and bustle of this

characterful part of the city, and are happy to revel in its lively nightlife and vibrant restaurants before retiring to

relative calmness.

Having apparently taken its main cue from the urban landscape that surrounds it, the hotel’s decor is slick,

contemporary and unpretentious, with a touch of classical modernism. There are nods to Greece’s heritage

throughout the property by way of a permanent exhibition featuring photographs from the nearby archaeological

museum. Lovers of 20 th century designer furniture are also catered for in the marble and walnut interior which

showcases retro-chic furniture by Modernists such as Le Corbusier and Eileen Gray.

All 21 rooms and suites have balconies, large comfy beds (with pillow menus), a desk area and a designer

armchair to collapse into after a busy day of sightseeing. Bathrooms stocked with Korres toiletries are spacious and

marble-lined with big walk-in showers. Super Deluxe rooms have Acropolis views. The best accommodation in the

building, the 110m² Hellenic Grande Suite, occupies the hotel’s entire 6 th floor, and comprises two bedrooms and

three bathrooms, plus a large veranda furnished with sofas and dining table for al fresco soirées in the shadow of

the dramatically illuminated Acropolis by night.

www.athenswas.gr


BIG SUR, U.S.A.

VENTANA BIG SUR

When the winter storms caused a landslide in the Big Sur Valley, seriously damaging the Pfeiffer Canyon Bridge and forcing

the closure of Highway One, things came to a grinding halt in Big Sur, one of the world's most unforgettable stretches of

coastline. And when most travellers were prevented from visiting this treasured 90-mile stretch of redwood and fog-trimmed

Californian waterfront – between Carmel-by-the-Sea and Hearst Castle – most campgrounds, hotels and splurge-worthy

resorts had to temporarily shutter as a result. These included the 19 th century award-winning cliff-hugging homestead, Post

Ranch Inn, and the luxurious 160-acre Ventana Big Sur, formerly the Ventana Inn & Spa, which boasts an enchanting

backdrop of verdant woodlands and sparkling blue waters, creating the most picturesque ambiance imaginable. But the

beloved adults-only Ventana used the enforced break to undergo an extensive renovation and refurbishment program, and

will re-open on 20 th October as Alila’s debut North American property, to coincide with the opening of a newly constructed

Pfeiffer Canyon Bridge, reconnecting Big Sur to the rest of the world.

Built more than four decades ago, Ventana's multimillion-dollar reimagination of its 59 guest rooms and suites has

enhanced rather than changed the hotel's already plush and much-loved rustic design aesthetic. All guest rooms include a


private balcony or patio, where breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains or Pacific Ocean can be enjoyed and savoured.

The liberal addition of rich leathers, high quality timber furnishings, macramé wall hangings and handcrafted accessories has

elevated guest accommodations to new luxurious standards.

Other updates include the revamping of Social House lounge as an enclave designed for socialising with other guests,

complete with a collection of vinyl, pool table, board games and an intimate bar. Meanwhile, Sur House restaurant, with its

famed 10,000-bottle cellar, features an expanded terrace so that more people can dine al fresco.

For those looking for a special break, luxe resort experiences include two, private outdoor Spa Alila cabanas overlooking the

redwood forest, for an even more serene experience. And a standalone Cottage House - the property’s largest and most

luxurious guest accommodation at 722ft² - boasts an outdoor hot tub, oversized hammock and sprawling stone bathroom

complete with an indoor soaking tub for two. Not to mention incredible forest canyon views and complete and utter privacy.

Perhaps the collapse of Pfeiffer Canyon Bridge and the forced closure of Highway One had a silver hospitality lining after all.

www.ventanabigsur.com

TAKEO-ONSEN, SAGA, JAPAN

ONYADO CHIKURINTEI

Nestled between the more popular Fukuoka and

Nagasaki prefectures, the historic Japanese

prefecture of Saga, in the north of Kyushu, is often

underrated and overlooked. But with more than 10%

of Saga dedicated to parks its natural beauty is hard

to ignore, and is well worth a visit for those

travelling around Japan. Saga is one of the few

prefectures where surf meets ski. Karatsu offers

some of the best surfing in Kyushu, while Tenzan

Ski Resort offers an altogether more alpine

experience. From the top of Mount Sefuri – the

largest in the Sefuri Mountain Range – the views of

this stunning region are breathtaking, and the climb

is a mere 3 hours to the peak.

Set within the lush Mifuneyama Rakuen Garden,

which dates from the latter Edo Period, in

Takeo-Onsen hot spring town with a 1,300-year

history, the serene and extraordinarily exquisite

Onyado Chikurintei inn features just 11 elegant and

exquisitely fashioned guest rooms surrounded by

dense wild forest and 495,000m² of landscaped

gardens, including a number of rare cherry blossom

trees. Each guest room has been lovingly designed

with its own unique personality, to seamlessly

integrate the architecture into the tranquil natural

environment that surrounds Onyado Chikurintei,

and take full advantage of its unique setting and

historic location.

Upon arrival, guests are welcomed into an

intimate entrance area, where they remove their

shoes before stepping onto the tatami floor. Vast,

window-lined hallways lead visitors to their private

rooms, with transparent glazing seemingly bringing

the outdoors in, and the walk itself feeling much like

a peaceful transition into the beautiful nature that

surrounds the site. Room layouts have been designed

to maximise the scenic views of the surrounding

gardens and tune guests into Mifuneyama Rakuen

garden’s hundreds of thousands of trees and

flowering plants which provide a kaleidoscope of

differing colours in each of the four seasons.

Onyado Chikurintei‘s largest and most exclusive

accommodation is the VIP ‘SHUHO’ room, a spacious

and serene space that once hosted Japan’s Imperial

family, Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko.

www.chikurintei.jp/en/


NEW YORK CITY, U.S.A.

MADE HOTEL

Named for the neighbourhood's acronym (NOrth of MADison Square Park), whilst many New Yorkers cite the

NoMad district as quintessential New York, considering its position in the heart of Manhattan – pretty much as

central as it gets – it’s a bit odd that the area between 26 th and 30 th Streets, Park Avenue and Broadway didn’t, until

relatively recently, even have a name. Formerly home to the late 19 th century and early 20 th century music

publishing mecca known as Tin Pan Alley, today the area oozes a high-energy buzz from the daytime hustle of its

creative and enthusiastic residents always looking for better ways to live, work and play. Plentiful restaurants serve

cuisine as diverse as the clientele who dine in them. There are a plethora of niche amenities, the like of which one

would only ever find in Manhattan, such as the New York Dog Spa and Hotel and even a Museum of Sex. And now

there are more than a few design-led hotels in on the hospitality action.

The first to open was Ace Hotel in 2009, whose restaurants and lobby bar soon began to lure trendy downtowners to

its obscure patch of Broadway. Other hotels soon followed, including the 168-room NoMad, occupying a stunning

1903 Beaux-Arts tower on Broadway at 28 th Street, and the 254-room Redbury New York, sibling of its famous sister

properties in Hollywood and South Beach. Everything in NoMad is but a short jaunt from the Empire State Building,

Madison Square Park, the Theatre District, Fashion District and Museum Row, making the location uber convenient for all.

108-room MADE Hotel debuted in New York’s burgeoning NoMad district last month, spread across 18 storeys

and meticulously conceptualised by Los Angeles-based design firm Studio MAI as a sustainable urban hospitality

concept, based on an ecoconscious material palette without sacrificing luxury.

Elements of global simplicity feature strongly within MADE’s rooms and suites, simultaneously humbling and adding

raw elegance to their interiors, whilst also showcasing a number of bespoke fixtures and fittings, such as a custom raw

bronze shelving system that connects the closet and desk, and allows guests to have some fun and games getting the

space just the way they want it to function. Rich handwoven fabrics, polished stainless-steel mirrors and hand-carved

benches contrast solid white oak walls and flumed white oak flooring. The overall effect is one of subdued yet

well-designed and restrained sophistication, which is something New Yorkers are generally not used to seeing in their

hotels. Perhaps this new minimal yet natural feel, laden with special design touches, is made for the new New York.

www.madehotels.com



PARIS, FRANCE

THE HOXTON, PARIS

Located directly north of the 1 st arrondissement, the

smallest of all the arrondissements, the unassuming

2eme is known for its banking and business presence,

particularly for housing the Bourse – the historic HQ of

the Paris stock exchange. The 2 nd arrondissement is

also a haven of fashion and food, lined with covered

commercial passageways, trendy boutiques and

vibrant open-air markets, some of which date back to

19 th century. Most notable are the circular Place des

Victoires, one of the oldest royal squares in Paris, and

La Gallerie Vivienne, a gorgeous 19 th century covered

arcade that’s simply perfect for an afternoon of coffee

and shopping. The open-air market on pedestrianised

Rue Motorgueil is one of the city’s oldest, and a host of

speciality food shops sell everything from bread, wine

and cheese to fresh fish and cut flowers. The 2 nd

arrondissement is also home to the textile district,

known as the Sentier. It is in the epicentre of this cool

part of the French capital – in an enviable position on

Rue du Sentier – that supremely funky hospitality

brand Hoxton recently opened its hot new Paris hotel.

The fourth outpost from what one of the world’s

most exciting hotel groups, Hoxton Paris is the largest

to date in the brand’s portfolio, with 172 guestrooms

complemented by a brasserie, cocktail bar, two

courtyards, seven meeting rooms and a communal

pantry-style kitchen. Housed within an imposing 18 th

century townhouse originally designed by architect

Nicolas d’Orbay for Etienne Rivié, a courtier to King

Louis XV, the building sat empty for more than a

decade and was last used as a clothing factory. Taking

inspiration from the diversity and originality of the

streets and scenes that surround it, a trio of design

firms spent four years carefully renovating the

‘monument historique’ – a title it shares with the Eiffel

Tower, Louvre and Notre Dame. Parisian studio

Humbert & Poyet created the bedrooms, Soho House

the public spaces, and Ennismore Creative Studio

oversaw the project. As a result, the space has been

skilfully reimagined and the history of the property

beautifully captured through cornicing, panels and

reclaimed oak chevron flooring, juxtaposed with

contemporary feature walls and laminates to create

an ultra-edgy urban haven of contemporary chic in a

historic setting.

www.thehoxton.com

MACAU, CHINA

THE MACAU ROOSEVELT

Whilst Macau has worked hard to forge its reputation as the Las Vegas of Asia, Taipa Village, with its rich cultural

heritage and natural beauty, is one of the few areas where you can seemingly step back in time and enjoy quiet

strolls along pedestrianised streets and hidden, characterful alleys, thus offering a welcome respite to the high

octane Cotai casino area. The best-preserved area of historical Taipa Island, and home to Portuguese architecture

and Mediterranean influences alongside Chinese architectural features, Taipa Village offers rich cultural heritage

and a host of authentic local delights, including museums, colonial churches and Chinese temples. It is against this

colourful backdrop – tucked away in its own corner of Taipa yet set well away from the area’s other hotels – that

The Macau Roosevelt recently opened its glamorous doors, looking onto Macau's racecourse and over the Hengqin

River towards China.

Pairing a modernist design and the glamorous golden age of Hollywood with champagne-popping views,

Roosevelt’s first outpost outside the States was fashioned by talented yet fierce Iceland-born Los Angeles-based

female architect Gulla Jónsdóttir, and has added a noticeable dash of exclusivity to Taipa and indeed Macau overall.

Given the Roosevelt brand’s colourful past (including hosting the first Academy Awards in 1929), there was a lot

of pressure to get things right for its first overseas property. But, in the very capable hands of Jónsdóttir, local

Chinese owner Yoho Group need not have worried about the outcome of its debut hotel. The Macau Roosevelt has

literally overnight become the insider address for music makers, fashionistas and adventurous socialites alike,

tapping into a Tinseltown design aesthetic, stylistically dated back to when Southern California epitomised glamour

like nowhere else.

The hotel’s 368 rooms are sumptuous yet not overpowering, with white oak flooring and a lavish use of materials

such as bronze and stone in creative ways. In corner suites, a built-in wood and marble window seat doubles as a

desk. Large timber dividers in bathrooms are set against bronze doors and black and white marble feature walls

carved with an organic pattern akin to inkblots. At the top of the building, the hotel's duplex suites – named after

Hollywood Roosevelt regular Marilyn Monroe – are akin to glamorous penthouse playgrounds, and boast rooftop hot

tubs and multiple beds, creating some of the most decadent yet fun lodgings to rest one's head in Macau.

www.themacauroosevelt.com


TORONTO, CANADA

THE BROADVIEW HOTEL

With Niagara Falls just two hours away, a super-efficient transportation system and the

welcoming Torontonians always smiling and ready to help, there are many reasons to

visit North America’s fourth-largest city. Buzzing during term time with a few hundred

thousand students and a population representing a couple of hundred nations, all

frequenting the city's excellent restaurants, theatres, museums and art galleries, there is

plenty to see and do in Toronto.

When it comes to trendy neighbourhoods, Toronto’s east side traditionally lagged

behind more westerly hot spots such as College Street’s Little Italy. But nowadays

Queen St. East is the new Queen St. West, and the formerly industrial stretch known as

Leslieville has emerged as one of the city's hippest places to eat, drink, shop and live.

Over the past decade, the east side has attracted an influx of young homebuyers who

have changed the dynamic and like to dine out and spend their cash in cool places close

to home, with much of the excitement now centred on Gerrard Street.

The Broadview Hotel on Queen St. East opened in July 2017 after a three-year

renovation and restoration process, represents one of Toronto’s most enormous

transformations, and is another fine example of fresh buzz again being injected into the

city’s east side. Officially named Dingman's Hall and erected by a soap maker in 1891,

who thought that the neighbourhood could use a community hub, what was once a

bicycle club, residential complex and latterly a rooming-house and notorious strip club,

has been transformed from a structurally unsound wreck into a lovingly realised

boutique hotel, complete with a funky café-bar on street level and a seventh-floor

rooftop bar and deck surrounding a preserved tower, which was the tallest structure in

the area until recently. Indeed, Broadview’s rooftop was one of the summer’s most

happening hang outs for miles around.

A building with such character and multiple layers of history gave the hotel’s

designers - DesignAgency - lots of freedom to play off different eras and genres. This

playfulness is obvious in every party of the property, not least the 58 rooms and suites

which feel a little like boudoirs, decorated with rich velvet curtains, patterned textiles,

and the occasional utility pole that functions as the support for bedside tables or mirrors

while also resembling a brass pole. Every room has a record player and selection of vinyl

hand-picked by the hotel’s east-end neighbour, Tiny Record Shop, mini bars are stocked

with goods from local purveyors, and marble-lined uber retro bathrooms are stocked

with toiletries from another east-end company, Graydon Skincare. When it comes to

Toronto’s east side, it’s all about keeping it real and keeping it in the family.

www.thebroadviewhotel.ca



LANS, AUSTRIA

LANSERHOF LANS

The picture postcard homely Austrian village of Lans, about 8km

from Innsbruck, is renowned throughout Tyrol for its lake of

glacial origin. Despite being situated at a height of 980m, in high

summer the water temperature can rise to 25 degrees making it

perfect for bathing. Whilst in the winter months, Lake Lans

transforms into an ice skating rink. Being at the foot of

2,246m-high Patscherkofel mountain, Lans also offers direct

access to a bijou resort boasting a very acceptable 18km of ski

slopes and 8 lifts. Whilst it is here that Austrian alpine skier

Franz Klammer won his gold medal in the 1986 Winter

Olympics, the area is also famous for being the site of Lanserhof

Group's first medical spa.

Opened more than thirty years ago amidst a scenic setting of

meadows, expansive forests and the dramatic Alpine backdrop of

snow-capped mountains, Lanserhof Lans combines the best of a

luxury health retreat and a medical resort in one location, the

famous LANS Med concept being universally recognised as one of

the world's leading detox regimes.

Previously a serious clinic with very few frills, with treatments

more medicinal rather than pampering, Lanserhof Lans has just

put the finishing touches to an eight-month US$ 26 million

renovation, sensitively designed by Düsseldorf-based architect

Christoph Ingenhoven. The substantial makeover, including the

addition of a new five-storey curvilinear building, has elevated

Lanserhof Lans to a luxury all singing all dancing mega-retreat,

complete with a sublime spa incorporating a saltwater pool and

gym. Treatments are tailored to individuals’ needs, and doctors

and specialists are on hand to encourage guests to live a more

vital life once they leave.

The new guest room structure houses a collection of 67 light

and airy contemporary suites, all dressed in a soothing

mineral-based palette, and filled with sensory materials such as

wood, stone, linen and loden, the latter being a thick,

water-resistant short-piled woollen fabric, first produced by

Austrian peasants. Residents are treated to views of soaring

mountains to the north and bucolic forests to the south. At the

top of the building, the 65m² open-plan Grand Penthouse Suite,

complete with private roof terrace, provides incredible mountain

views via a curved bank of floor-to-ceiling windows (from

EUR1,750/night).

A minimum of seven days is required to get rid of the rubbish,

unblock the pipes, start to regenerate one’s body and let the energy

flow unimpeded. If you’re going to totally clear your mind and learn

to understand the importance of taking time out to properly reboot

and recharge, Lanserhof Lans is surely the place to do it.

www.lanserhof.com

PHUKET VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL

Devotees subjecting themselves to ritualised mutilation at Phuket’s annual

vegetarian festival in order to prove their devotion and venerate their gods and ancestors

1-9 October 2017 www.phuketvegetarian.com

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KATHMANDU

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

SCRATCHES BELOW THE SURFACE

OF THE NEPALESE CAPITAL AND IS

REWARDED WITH A UNIQUELY

SPIRITUAL AND CULTURAL

VACATION EXPERIENCE


Unusually for a cover story I am caveating this article

at the outset, since visiting Kathmandu is not for

the faint hearted, inexperienced travellers, first time

visitors to Asia or those who have never before experienced a

third world country, which the Nepalese capital is largely

reminiscent of at the present time. Whilst the countryside

and Himalayan foothills just outside the city are overtly lush,

green and utterly spectacular, you need to actively scratch

below the surface of Kathmandu to uncover the city’s riches,

many of which are essentially hidden in plain sight.

Even on a fine weather day, the streets of the Nepalese

capital are pretty treacherous, and in parts seemingly

unpassable, especially to an uninitiated Westerner. Litter is

everywhere, and it's not uncommon to see trash piled up

beside the road because rubbish bins are few and far

between. Except for Saturday which is the locals' weekly day

off, roads are heaving and the traffic routinely slow-moving.

On a weekend night, don’t be surprised to sit in a log jam for

what seems like an eternity, just to travel a few miles in a

taxi. The best way to get around is undoubtedly on two

wheels. Kathmandu's air is polluted and rife with dust,

especially when it hasn't rained for a while. Yet, whilst all of

these failings have the makings of a decidedly unhospitable

destination, if one invests the time to truly explore the

Nepalese capital, one is rewarded with an intense spiritual

and cultural experience, combining centuries of fascinating

history, deep religion and glorious traditions.

Kathmandians are warm, honest, loyal and friendly people.

“You need to

actively scratch

below the surface

of Kathmandu to

uncover the city’s

riches, many of

which are

essentially hidden

in plain sight ”

Visitors are almost certainly safer on the streets of

Kathmandu than in New York. No one will pickpocket your

bag while you’re looking at a temple, for instance. The local

cuisine is delicious, original and affordable, especially

momos, which are essentially bite-size dumplings with a

meat or vegetable filling, accompanied by a spicy dipping

sauce. And Nepalese handicrafts are of an exceptionally

high standard, especially textiles. Indeed, Nepalese

cashmere and woven fabrics are amongst the best in the

world, and local factories are routinely used by numerous

high-end European fashion houses, including the likes of

Chanel and Lagerfeld. Yes, your US$1,000 cashmere hoodie

was most likely made in Nepal!

As the stepping stone for literally every single Everest

climber who has attempted to conquer the world's tallest

mountain, Kathmandu is experienced in meeting the needs

of explorers and adventurers, yet, uniquely, hasn't been

ruined by tourists. There are very few capitals left in the

world which are still unspoilt and authentic. Kathmandu is

one of them, making visiting it a unique and

all-encompassing experience for those willing to take the

plunge. And plunge in head fist you must, to fully

understand the city, appreciate Nepalese culture and get the

best out of your visit.

Located at the crossroads of ancient trading and pilgrimage

routes, in the fertile Kathmandu Valley, more than 20,000

feet below the poetic snow-capped Himalayan peaks, the

Nepalese capital oozes countless exotic connotations. Before


I flew to Nepal, I anticipated exploring a remote and fabled

kingdom, once isolated by geography and political upheaval.

I expected mystery and mysticism, not least in a city which

was founded in 723 AD. But I did not expect the pollution

and traffic jams. And I certainly did not expect a corpse.

“The feet of the body are in the water so the soul can be

released into the Bagmati River, a tributary of the sacred

Ganges, and after the cremation his ashes will also be

swept into the river,” Shree, my guide, explained to me,

unaware of my slight uneasiness. I was standing within the

Pashupatinath temple complex, one of the holiest in the

world, revered and worshipped by both Hindus and

Buddhists. The scene which was unfolding before me was

surreal. A dead male body was being attended to by various

family members who were preparing him for imminent

cremation. They were washing the corpse, with a little

move their oil lamps, lanterns and other religious icons in

circular motions whilst chanting sacred mantras.

Meanwhile, on the opposite river bank, the corpse, by now

covered in bright orange flower garlands and layers of

garments, was being carried to the ghat, stacked with wood

and ready for the cremation to begin. All the while monkeys

scrapped in the background, jumping from stupa to stupa,

occasionally their crazy screams heard above the priests’

chanting. A young girl tried to sell me a necklace with a

mandala charm, but when I said ‘no’ she moved on to her

next target rather than harangue me. Further down the

river, I could see women washing clothes and whacking

them dry against rocks, and water buffalo wandering along

the muddy banks. Monkeys splashed. Dogs drank. The

entire scene awakened senses in me that had hitherto been

dormant, probably because so much is handed to us on a

plate when we travel to foreign lands these days.

“Located at the crossroads of ancient trading and

pilgrimage routes, in the fertile Kathmandu Valley,

more than 20,000 feet below the poetic

snow-capped Himalayan peaks, the Nepalese

capital oozes countless exotic connotations ”

difficulty it seemed, since it was wrapped in a sarong and

other garments. His feet were in the river. “One must be

cleansed before entering a different plane,” Shree

commented. Whilst a public cremation was about to happen

in front of me, on the river bank opposite, to my right, the

set-up was beginning for a ritual candle ceremony, Aarati, a

celebration of a completely different kind. Around me were

hundreds of people, perhaps a few thousand actually, for I

couldn’t see far as dusk was beginning to fall. But I could

feel the people and their intense anticipation.

Bagmati divides Pashupati into two parts, with the main

temple on one side of the holy river, and the location of

Aarati on the other. Pashupati’s Aarati is a nightly ritual of

worship, in which light from wicks soaked in ghee (purified

butter) is offered to God. During the ritual, three priests


RATHAUS

I literally stood in the same spot for more than two hours,

without so much as a sip of water, so entranced was I by

the scene which was unfolding around me. When the

funeral pyre was eventually lit, the body was being

consumed and huge flames began to leap towards the sky,

at the same time as the Aarati priests continued to sing

their mesmerising songs and dance with their burning

lanterns, it felt like the tableau was complete: celebrations

of life and death were happening concurrently in the same

place. As I reluctantly walked away, night had well and truly

fallen by now, and huge smoke plumes from the burning

corpse were trailing into the black sky. I have seen a lot of

things on my travels around the world, but this intensely

spiritual, spellbinding spectacle was one which I will almost

certainly never forget. Life and death. Light and dark.

Celebration and mourning. Everything happened on the

banks of the Bagmati that night, and what I saw and

experienced is the essence of Kathmandu – a city of great

contradictions, but, through it all, great belief, trust, love

and spirituality. “Watch where you walk,” Shree cautioned

me, stepping around dog excrement.

The Malla Dynasty was Kathmandu’s ruling family from

1201 until 1769. Upon the death of King Yaksha Malla in

1482, a rivalry developed among his three sons, so each

took a portion of the Kathmandu Valley, creating three

kingdoms and independent city-states now known as

Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. The competition among

the subsequent monarchs of the three cities continued until

the Mallas were defeated, and the country reunified in 1769.

Whilst in power, the kings of each city created a durbar

(palace) and square, and each attempted to outdo the other

in the building of their lavish temples, ornate shrines and

opulent palaces. Today, the three durbar squares, all within

a few miles of each other, have been designated as

UNESCO world heritage sites. Whilst the devastating

earthquake of 25 th April 2015 decimated much of these

beautiful historic centres, the rebuilding of Kathmandu’s

temples is proceeding at a rapid pace.

In the sixties and early seventies, most visitors to the city

congregated in Kathmandu Durbar Square, the natural

center of the capital. The majority of these travellers had

trekked the hippie trail, enticed by marijuana and hashish

which was legal back then. So popular was this area, that a

nearby road is still known as Freak Street, and a temple

dedicated to Shiva, where those high on cannabis and hash

routinely preached peace, love and flower power, is

popularly known as the Hippie Temple. Nowadays the freaks

have vanished – either grown up or gone to Goa – but the

names have stuck.

At the southern limits of Kathmandu Durbar Square, in the

adjoining square of Basantapur – once the royal elephant

stables – you will find a bustling flea market during the day.

Every morning, vendors unload their wares from crates and


“I have seen a lot of things on

my travels around the world,

but this intensely spiritual,

spellbinding spectacle was

one which I will almost

certainly never forget ”

arrange them on mats or makeshift tables. Among the many

items for sale are elaborate antique locks that vendors

swear hail from “a very old temple”, together with countless

“singing bowls” – essentially metal bowls which produce a

vibrating hum when the rim is rubbed with a wooden wand.

Whilst such bowls are used by Buddhist monks during

meditation, those sold in flea markets are generally of a

poor quality.

It is easy to be overwhelmed by the variety and number of

imposing temples and shrines throughout Kathmandu,

especially in the interconnected courtyards of the ancient

royal palace complex of the former Kathmandu Kingdom.

Sadly, the oldest and largest building in the complex,

Kasthamandap, dating from the 14 th century, was utterly


42

destroyed by the earthquake. According to legend, wood from

a single tree had been used in its construction. Rebuilding

this iconic Kathmandu landmark is a slow and difficult

process. Yet there are others, still standing, in the same

complex, which are open to tourists and worth visiting, not

least to see their ornately and intricately carved woodwork.

When moving around Kathmandu, as far as possible I

travelled on the back of a motorcycle, with my trusty guide

Manish skilfully weaving our two wheels in and out of the

dreadful traffic. As long as one is equipped with a mask and

helmet this is by far the quickest way to get from A to B, but

is only doable when it's not raining. On the morning of my

car ride to Patan, the 3-mile journey took over an hour even

though we avoided rush hour. Bouncing about on the back

seat of a car, traversing broken roads on spent shock

absorbers, with exhaust fumes pouring through the driver’s

open window to a backdrop of non-stop horns blaring, is

not a lot of fun I can tell you. Often I wondered whether it

might not have been better to walk, but the pavements in

Kathmandu are an assault course of potholes, fornicating

stray dogs and cows either ambling across the street or

recumbent on the sidewalk. Hence, walking anywhere,

apart from short distances, is not recommended.

I was heading to Patan for a guided tour of its chaityas

(miniature stone stupas), a bespoke experience organised

by Hyatt Regency Kathmandu to give visitors a real feel for

the city's 1,500 years of Buddhist architecture. Upon my

arrival in Patan, the chaos of the city’s roads gave way to

60 The Cultured TravellerOct-Nov 2017

the calm of the ancient city. Predominantly Buddhist Patan

still goes by the ancient name of Lalitpur – City of Beauty.

Kathmandu really comes to life in the backstreets and hidden

squares of Patan, where candy-coloured houses, spanning

numerous architectural generations, sit side-by-side with

temples, chaityas, monuments and other altars to Buddha. It

is not hard to see why Patan was originally named Lalitpur.

Here a gentler pace of life obviously prevails. The streets are a

riot of smells: turmeric, cardamom, incense, ginger,

marigolds, fresh meat, fried onion and cow dung. Shop

windows display tacky golden deities to attract the eyes of

tourists. Courtyard upon courtyard, interspersed with

beautiful squares – all kept tidy and litter-free by their

residents – yield an array of chaityas of varying size, age

and levels of decoration. Many courtyards echo with the tap

of hammers from bronze casters hand crafting statues of

Buddhas and Bodhisattvas (goddesses). Most of the

chaityas I saw were simply stunning. Starting at Gabaha

Square and ending at Lunkhusi, the two-kilometre walk

took just a few hours, yet in those 120 minutes I chanced

upon more captivating Nepalese architecture than I had

seen during the previous four days.

Before the earthquake, Patan’s Durbar Square was reputedly

the most spectacular of all Kathmandu, a veritable

Disneyland of temples lining the left-hand side of the

square, opposite the royal palace stretching for hundreds of

feet down the other side. The palace fared reasonably well,

but heartbreakingly most of the temples were reduced to

rubble. However, amidst before and after images affixed to

the hordes of scaffolding which surround each fallen

temple, phoenix-like they are rising from the piles of rubble.

Typically upbeat of the Nepalese people, my guide quipped

“you’d better take photos of these temples now, because in

a few years’ time all the scaffolding will be gone.” This

positive-thinking and natural appreciation of their

architectural heritage is the lifeline of Kathmandu’s

residents, and one of the reasons why visitors, like me, can

easily forgive the dog shit and broken roads for the

possibility of a deep, meaningful and inherently cultural

travel experience.

There is much to see, feel, touch, taste and experience in

Kathmandu – you just need to take the time to search it out

and revel in it. Whilst this is not something 21 st century

travellers are routinely au fait with, for those adventurous

enough to visit the second poorest nation in Asia, the visual

rewards are huge, memories truly unforgettable and

spiritual experiences utterly unique.

ALSTERARKADEN

“Typically upbeat of the Nepalese

people, my guide quipped “you’d

better take photos of these temples

now, because in a few years’ time all

the scaffolding will be gone ”


KATHMANDU

STAY IN THE CITY

HYATT REGENCY KATHMANDU

DWARIKA’S HOTEL

VENTURE OUT OF TOWN

DWARIKA’S RESORT



Liberally spread out on a 37-acre plot, comprising mainly of bucolic landscaped grounds, when exiting Kathmandu’s

treacherous streets and making your way up the long, regal driveway towards the 5-star Hyatt Regency Kathmandu, one is

almost immediately overcome by an overwhelming sense of calm and contentment, particularly as the massive hotel of 280

rooms and suites comes into view. The contrast between outside the hotel’s gates and inside its lush sprawling compound

could not be greater. Outside, chaos, traffic, dirt and disorganisation reign. Meanwhile, in the domain of Kathmandu’s Hyatt,

peace and calm are the order of the day – every day – and spacious accommodations and extensive resort-like facilities are

complemented by a level of personal service and attention to detail unmatched anywhere else in the Nepalese capital. Arriving

at the Hyatt is quite literally like stepping out of a dirty city and into a hospitality haven, such is the contrast, and so staying

here must surely be the first choice of cultured travellers visiting Kathmandu.

Built in the traditional Newari style of Nepalese architecture, the Hyatt is located on the road to Boudhanath Stupa - the most

holy of all Tibetan Buddhist shrines outside of Tibet, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Boudhanath and the buzzing

backstreets and busy alleys around the stupa are just five minutes on foot from the hotel’s back gate, making visiting this holiest

of sites a breeze in a city where getting anywhere can be a bit of a struggle. For any other hotel, being in such close proximity to

Boudhanath would invariably be its USP, but not the Hyatt, for it boasts numerous other facilities unique to a central Kathmandu


hotel. Not least, a 25-metre free form outdoor swimming pool, indoor and outdoor whirpools, countless sundecks for tanning

when the weather’s fine, three astroturfed tennis courts, multiple options for eating and drinking, and even a 1.6km (just under

a mile-long) jogging track, the latter meandering its way around the hotel’s beautiful landscaped gardens.

The onsite beauty salon, health club, spa and well-equipped state-of-the-art fitness centre offer opportunities to be preened,

destress, relax and stay in shape, including a week-long schedule of yoga classes. Overlooking the hotel’s Japanese garden, the

hotel’s fitness centre is uniquely open to in-house guests 24 hours a day every day.

280 rooms, including 7 suites and 35 Regency Club rooms, are some of the largest lodgings in the city, and have been

designed to provide supreme comfort and space to unwind after a busy day, whether sightseeing or working. Many rooms

boast panoramic Kathmandu Valley and direct Boudhanath Stupa views. High-speed Wi-Fi is free for all residents. Being a

full-service resort hotel, an extensive room service menu is available for guests who wish to dine in their rooms after a tiring

day out ‘n’ about. Guests staying in Regency Club rooms have exclusive access to a large private lounge, akin to a members’

club, which serves complimentary breakfast, all-day hot and cold soft beverages, and early evening hors d’oeuvres, wines and

cocktails. In short, Hyatt Regency Kathmandu is the perfect base from which to explore the Kathmandu Valley, providing

literally everything a discerning traveller could ever want in a city centre hotel.

kathmandu.regency.hyatt.com


DWARIKA’S HOTEL

When one man, Dwarika Das Shrestha, saw some ancient Nepalese carved

wood pillars being burnt as firewood back in the early 1950s, it was to

change the course of his life, and lead to the construction of a hotel and the

birth of a hospitality group, of which Dwarika’s Hotel in Kathmandu was the

first. Located in the Battisputali neighbourhood of the city, Dwarika’s Hotel

is the result of the merging together of several traditional old Newari

houses around a central courtyard. The resultant hotel, spread between

three separate buildings, took more than thirty years to construct, and

earned Dwarika’s a UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Award for Culture

Heritage Conservation, recognising the Shrestha family’s achievement in

successfully conserving and restoring heritage buildings.

Dwarika Das Shrestha's vision was born in Kathmandu Durbar Square in

1952. Nepal was entering a period of change, and all-around, centuries-old

mud, brick and wooden houses were being demolished to make way for

modern concrete structures. Legend has it that Shrestha was jogging past

the ruins of an old building, in front of the ancient palatial complex of

Kathmandu's Newari kings, when he saw, huddled in front of a small fire,

two carpenters sawing-up ancient carved wooden pillars and using the

pieces for firewood. The reduction of his heritage to fuel struck a chord,

quite literally stopped Shrestha in his tracks, and he took action. First, he

bought the wooden pillars from the carpenters, saving them from being

burnt. In the years that followed, whenever an old building was torn down,

Shrestha would buy as much of its ancient carved woodwork as he could

afford. Indeed, it became his passion to collect as much as possible.

In the early 1970s, during the time of the coronation of King Birenda, all the

hotels in Nepal were fully booked, and so Shrestha and his family moved

into a rented house and converted their home – the first building on the site

– into a make-shift guest house. This first building, affectionately known as

the cow shed, today houses rooms 105 and 106 of Dwarika’s Hotel. The

overwhelmingly positive feedback they received from their first foray into

the hotel industry, inspired the Shresthas to build a hotel in the same style.

In 1988 Shrestha brought together his entire collection of carved wooden

relics and opened the first part of Dwarika’s Hotel, the Lumbini Building.

From small beginnings the hotel grew, piece by piece, and, just before

Shrestha's death in 1992, he completed the 16-room Ram Palace,

employing the same stylistic elements as the first building. By now locals

and tourists alike has begun to appreciate the value of Newari architecture

and Nepalese heritage.

To stay in one of the hotel’s 83 individually designed rooms and suites

today, is to experience genuine Nepali hospitality and culture. Meanwhile

facilities now include a picturesque outdoor swimming pool, three

restaurants and a spa influenced by ancient Himalayan traditions. A shop

selling books, jewellery, Thangka paintings, handicrafts and Nepali

Pashmina shawls completes the Dwarika’s Hotel experience, which, some

would say, is utterly unique in the world of hospitality.

www.dwarikas.com


DWARIKA’S RESORT

Planning a 7-day trip to Nepal and including an out of town weekend in

Dhulikhel, offers an opportunity to experience both the fascinating

metropolis of Kathmandu and the gloriously lush Nepalese countryside.

Dwarika’s Resort in Dhulikhel is perfect for a few days out of the city, and

is the perfect luxe location to enjoy some meaningful therapies and

restorative treatments.

Offering stunning views over the extended Langtang range of the

Himalayas, and just an hour’s drive from central Kathmandu (just beyond

the ancient city of Bhaktapur), Dwarika’s Resort is a beautiful holistic

lifestyle retreat, which draws upon ancient Himalayan knowledge and

philosophies of care for nature and oneself. In many ways, the resort pays

homage to Nepal’s natural heritage, and the holistic lifestyle of the

Himalayan people, but also bows to universal wisdom with regards to

one’s wellbeing. Located in Dhulikhel, a medieval city on the ancient trade

route to Tibet, and positioned so as to make the most of the spectacular

surrounding countryside, the resort is centred around its Pancha Kosha

Himalayan Spa. The range of therapies and treatments offered focus on

achieving a harmonious lifestyle, by employing Buddhist medicine,

Ayurveda and traditional folkloric knowledge. Guests can enjoy a host of

activities, as well as indulge in a range of unique Himalayan spa

treatments, all in magnificent natural surroundings, presided over by

friendly staff who attend to their needs with genuine warmth and care.

Guest accommodations comprise forty suites, ranging in size from 100m²

to 300m² in three categories (junior, executive and royal), and

characterised by rosy brickwork and dark wooden accents with the

emphasis on comfort and relaxation. All offer magnificent vistas through

large windows facing directly out across the valley. Executive suites boast

a sprawling party-sized private rooftop terrace which effectively acts as an

outdoor living room. Whether inside or outside one’s suite, the temptation

is genuinely to sit, do nothing, speak to no one and just drink in the

breathtaking views.

All guests are invited to partake in a variety of resort activities for no extra

charge, although those who splash out for the highest room categories

benefit from even more free activities, including a one-on-one chakra

meditation with the resident guru, a personal consultation with the onsite

Ayurvedic doctor and private yoga sessions. In addition to the activities,

there are meditation and yoga halls, chakra sound chambers, a maze of

84 Shiva Linga carvings, and, perhaps most extraordinarily, a Himalayan

salt therapy room completely lined with chunks of pure rock salt. The salt

crystals impart a thickness to the air (which is fantastic for respiratory

issues), and the effect of spending a few quiet moments here alone is as

pleasing as it is mystical.

Meals are provided by way of in-room dining and three restaurants

(including a superb vegetarian Japanese), and there’s even a helipad for

those for wish to take a chopper to watch the sun rise at Everest base camp.

www.dwarikas-dhulikhel.com

SEE

KUMARI DEVI

A kumari is a young pre-pubescent girl believed by

Newar Buddhists to be the embodiment of the supreme

female deity Vajradevi, a Buddha. The cult of the Kumari

dates back to the Middle Ages. Whilst there are about 10

kumaris in Nepal, Kathmandu's Kumari Devi (royal

goddess) is the most important, and the Kumari Ghar

on Kathmandu Durbar Square is where she lives. Built in

1757, the temple largely escaped earthquake damage,

and is known for its magnificent carvings as well as its

divine resident. Every afternoon, the Living Goddess

appears for a few seconds in a first-floor window. No

photos are allowed but she is said to answer devotees'

questions by the expressions on her face!

BOUDHANATH STUPA

The largest stupa in Nepal and the holiest Tibetan

Buddhist temple outside Tibet, Boudhanath is the

center of Tibetan culture in Kathmandu and rich in

Buddhist symbolism. Probably built in the 14th century

after the Mughal invasions, the stupa is located in the

town of Boudha, on the eastern outskirts of

Kathmandu, literally 5 minutes-walk from the Hyatt

hotel. Boudhanath is topped with a square tower

bearing the omnipresent Buddha eyes on all four sides.

Prayer flags tied to the stupa flutter in the wind,

carrying mantras and prayers heavenward.

Surrounding Boudhanath are streets and narrow alleys

lined with colourful homes, Tibetan Buddhist

monasteries and street vendors.

BOUDHANATH STUPA

GARDEN OF DREAMS

A small, unremarkable sign in Thamel marks the

entrance to this beautiful, historic neo-classical

garden, which was laid out in the 1920s by the late

Field Marshal Kaiser Shumsher Rana. Once inside and

behind the garden’s thick walls, there is no hint

whatsoever of the madness happening outside,

making Garden of Dreams an oasis of serenity in the

heart of the hectic city. People lounge on the grass

carpeting the steps of the semi-circular Greek-style

amphitheatre and chat in hushed tones. Fountains

burble in the background. First time visitors investigate

the space, wander around the six impressive pavilions

and find hidden courtyards. Well worth a visit if only to

take a break. www.gardenofdreams.org


KUMARI DEVI

GARDEN OF DREAMS

SWAYAMBHU (MONKEY TEMPLE)

Sitting atop a hill 3km west of Kathmandu,

commanding wide and spectacular views of the valley

below, makes visiting Swayambhu ideal to snap a

panoramic photo of the sprawling cityscape. One of

the holiest Buddhist chaityas in Nepal, Swayambhu is

said to have evolved spontaneously when the valley

was created out of a primordial lake more than two

millenia ago. Being the oldest stupa of its kind in

Nepal, it is surrounded by numerous shrines and

monasteries. Oh, and lots of monkeys. The stone steps

leading up to Swayambhu are exceedingly steep, so do

ensure that your driver uses the road to drop you close

to the top.

www.swayambhu.buddhism-foundation.org

GOLDEN GATE, BHAKTAPUR

Set into a bright red gatehouse adjacent to the 55

Window Palace, the magnificent Golden Gate is a

visual highlight of visiting Bhaktapur Durbar Square,

and should be combined with exploring the inner

courtyards of the Royal Palace, a once vast compound

until the 1934 earthquake levelled all but a handful of

its 99 courtyards. A few more walls toppled during the

2015 earthquake but much survives. The fabulous

golden portal boasts some of Nepal's finest repoussé

metalwork. The gilded torana features a fabulous

Garuda wrestling with a number of supernatural

serpents, while below her is a four-headed and

10-armed figure of the goddess Taleju Bhawani, the

family deity of the Malla kings.

INTERNATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

GOLDEN GATE, BHAKTAPUR

THE CHAITYA WALK

Hyatt Regency hotel's bespoke 2km guided walking

tour of the ancient city of Patan’s landmark stupas, is

a veritable journey through 1,500 years of Buddhist

architecture in the heart of the Nepalese capital, and

a superb way to spend just two hours of your time in

Kathmandu. The walk starts at Gabaha Square and

winds its way through hidden courtyards and bright,

colourful squares, taking in a number of gorgeous

temples along the way, as well as some of the city’s

most important chaityas, some of which were

consecrated in the 16 th and 17 th centuries. Not to be

missed is the Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna

Mahavihar) which was untouched by the earthquake

and is one of the most beautiful in Patan, just north

of Durbar Sq.

kathmandu.regency@hyatt.com

GOLDEN TEMPLE


Stay next to

Boudhanath

Stupa and

be part of

Kathmandu

Take a break from routine and immerse yourself in Nepal’s

vibrant, cultural and energizing capital.

Relive old traditions, experience the sights and colour of

Kathmandu and enjoy genuine Nepalese hospitality.

For reservations, call +977 1 5171234

or visit kathmandu.regency.hyatt.com


Boudha, Kathmandu

©2017 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.


TASTE

FIRE AND ICE

Founded in 1995 by charming and spirited Italian

Annamaria Forgione, Fire And Ice is something of a

culinary institution in Kathmandu, and has been

serving the city’s best pizzas for more than two

decades, providing great value for money as well as

tasty authentic fare served in a buzzy, warm

environment. Routinely packed to the rafters in the

evenings, with discerning diners looking to be

satisfied with no-nonsense Italian food prepared

using only the freshest produce and ingredients, Fire

And Ice is also a popular spot for travellers, climbers

and local residents to meet for an authentic morning

espresso prepared using the best imported beans.

Everything is reasonably priced and tastes

scrumptious making reservations essential,

especially on weekend nights when the place is

positively buzzing. www.fireandicepizzeria.com

KULFI SANSAR

Even if you’re a fan of Greek yoghurt, Nepalese

yoghurt may very well be the best you’ve ever tasted!

Known as Juju Dhau – which literally means ‘king of

yoghurt’ – it is made using buffalo milk, which gives

the yoghurt a rich custard flavour and texture. The

shallow clay pots the yogurt is made and served in

allow any excess liquid to strain out, so the result is

one of the thickest, creamiest yogurts imaginable.

Juju Dhau is sometimes slightly sweetened with

Nepalese honey or flavoured with cardamom or

cloves. The best in Kathmandu can be found at Kulfi

Sansar in Bhaktapur Durbar Square, which also

happens to serve the best Kulfi popsicles (pictured)

for miles around. +977 1-6611899

MOMOS

Very popular among the Newar community of the

Kathmandu valley, it would be impossible to visit the

Nepalese capital and not partake (almost certainly

more than once) in the one of the nation’s most

popular dishes. Momos are essentially bite-size

dumplings made with a spoonful of stuffing wrapped

in dough. Usually steamed they are also often fried,

although the most delicious and utterly moreish are

those which are steamed then part fried. The filling of

water buffalo meat or vegetables becomes succulent

as the cooking process produces an intensely

FIRE AND ICE

flavoured broth sealed inside the momo. Served with a

spicy dipping sauce, the most authentic and tasty

momos tend to be found on Kathmandu’s streets.

PIANO B

Located in front of the DFID office near Alka Hospital

in Bhanimandal, and owned and managed by

Gianantonio Candiani, Piano B is a little slice of Italy in

Kathmandu, renowned for its authentic and tasty

Italian fare, superb wines and excellent selection of

artisan charcuterie. The restaurant is also a wine bar

and retail outlet, so if you don’t have time to sit down

and enjoy a delicious meal, you can drop in for a glass

of vino or pick-up a good bottle of red, some cold cuts

and cheeses and have a feast at home! Piano B also

has three guest rooms, all with en-suites, simply

decorated but perfectly adequate for a short stay,

equipped with the usual mod cons, and a bargain at

just US$ 35/night inclusive of breakfast.

www.pastapur.com

MAKO’S

Taking its name from its host Mako-san, established

in 2011, situated within the exotic confines of

Dwarika’s Hotel in Battisputali and seating just thirty

diners, Mako’s serves high quality authentic Japanese

fare, traditionally prepared using only the finest and

freshest ingredients. The intimate dining room is

decorated FG in traditional shoin style, complete with

walls bedecked in shōji and matrimonial kimonos, and

servers’ uniforms are fashioned from Japanese textiles.

This attention to detail extends to the food, of which

the prawn tempura, Teriyaki (chicken), Nikujaga

(meat and vegetable stew) and organic maccha green

tea ice cream are standout dishes.

dwarikas.com/dining/mako-s

MEZZE

This hip rooftop drinking and dining spot on Durbar

Marg, courtesy of the Roadhouse group, is one of the

city’s most happening and popular destinations due to

its urban warehouse design, open kitchen, spacious

roof terrace overlooking Narayanhiti Palace and

incredibly well-stocked bar. Particularly good are the

vegetarian mezze platter of hummus, mini pittas,

baba ghanoush and other tasty tidbits, and the

coriander-crusted chicken kebabs. Mezze’s buzzy and

happening vibe makes it equally good for a few drinks

or a complete meal. roadhouse.com.np/durbarmarg


MOMOS

FG

KULFI SANSAR

PIANO B

SIP

RUM DOODLE

Established in 1980 and probably Kathmandu’s most

famous bar and restaurant, Rum Doodle was a

favourite meeting place for mountaineering

expeditions (Sir Edmund Hillary, Reinhold Messner,

Angrita Sherpa and Rob Hall have all left their marks)

and continues to be popular with climbers, walkers

and backpackers from all over the world. Named after

the 1956 short novel by W. E. Bowman "The Ascent of

Rum Doodle”, the ceiling is bedecked with hundreds

upon hundreds of giant cut-out paper feet

autographed by happy customers and climbers alike.

Live music at the weekends and a well-stocked bar

make Rum Doodle a must-visit venue on a

Kathmandu night out. +977 1-2191248

KAISER CAFÉ, RESTAURANT & BAR

Situated within the tranquil Garden Of Dreams in

Thamel - itself a respite from the hectic, dirty city -

Kaiser Café’s unique location, within the spectacular

pillared Barkha Pavilion, makes it a special place for a

nice bottle of wine or a lunch stop in the middle of a

hectic day of sightseeing. Open from 9am 'til 10pm

every day serving meals, coffees and pastries on two

levels, enjoying an alcoholic beverage at the long,

grand bar in this rather special setting, surrounded by

columns and arches, is a lovely way to while away an

hour or two. dwarikas.com/dining/kaiser-cafe

RUM DOODLE

LEVEL 3 TERRACES

One of the city’s most happening weekend

nightspots, Level 3 is located at the top of Labim Mall

– Kathmandu’s newest and best shopping

destination – and offers expertly made cocktails,

premium spirits and an excellent range of fresh juices

in a slick covered outdoor space, with DJs on Friday

and Saturday nights. The carrot and apple juice ‘Skin

Purifier’, and beetroot, carrot and apple juice ‘Detox’

are both particularly good and healthy to boot!

www.facebook.com/level3terraces

SAM’S BAR

Located in bustling central Thamel, perhaps the

oldest bar in Kathmandu and popular among

travellers and locals alike, Sam’s is inconspicuously

hidden on the upper levels of an old building, so this

is not a venue you will stumble across by chance.



LEVEL 3 TERRACES

Sam’s is also the only bar in Kathmandu that doesn’t

serve food. Save for popcorn, it’s just booze, served in

a chilled-out, grass-roots environment with

scrubbish décor. The covered terrace is the best place

to park yourself. Beware, the toilets are not particular

pleasant and best to be avoided unless you’re

desperate! Chaksibari Marg, Thamel, Kathmandu

44600

BENTO CAFÉ

Occupying a narrow multi-storey building at the end

of Freak Street, with multiple floors offering different

experiences, when you visit Bento head straight up

the stairs to the terrace or rooftop, both of which offer

spectacular views across Basantapur Durbar Square.

Bento is perfect for a pit stop during a day of

sightseeing. Whilst the coffee, shisha and cocktails

here are all good, Bento’s momos deserve a special

mention because there are so scrummy, as are its

chatmari rice flour pancakes.

www.facebook.com/bentocafenepal/

DOUBLE DORJEE

On Boudha Road, just a few minutes-walk from both

Hyatt Regency Kathmandu and Boudhanath Stupa,

Nepalese owner Mrs Amala has been running her

bijou restaurant for more than three decades since

1985. Very popular with climbers and backpackers, its

slightly tatty exterior belies a shabby yet characterful

and intimate interior, which is a bit like sitting in your

granny’s lounge. Double Dorjee is renowned for Mrs

Amala’s super-strength Tongba - a somewhat heady

millet-based alcoholic beverage indigenous to Nepal,

and commonly drunk in the eastern mountainous

region of the country. +977 1-4914947

TONGBA

ROADHOUSE CAFÉ, BOUDHA

Roadhouse has four different locations in Kathmandu

and is a safe choice for decent food, tasty pizzas,

fresh salads and drinks. The Boudha branch is

however special because it is located inside the circle

at Boudhanath Stupa, and from either of its two

levels the café offers stunning views. Sit by the

window and watch the world circumnavigate the

stupa, or sip a coffee al fresco on the roof. Either way

this is the best place in Boudha from which to see the

largest stupa in Nepal and the holiest Tibetan

Buddhist temple outside Tibet.

http://roadhouse.com.np/boudha


SPEND

DHUKUTI

Located in Kupondole neighbourhood and run by the

Association for Craft Producers (ACP) – a local,

non-profit WFTO Guaranteed Fair Trade

organisation, which provides a variety of services to

around 1,200 low-income primarily female craft

producers – Dhukuti is a veritable four-storey

treasure trove for the fair trade consumer. Selling

everything from home furnishings, textiles, shawls,

scarves and bags, to ceramics, jewellery,

hand-printed wrapping paper, children’s toys and

rugs from the Nupri region of Manasl, Dhukuti is

quite possibly the best store in Kathmandu for

buying something made in Nepal. Prices are

reasonable and a lot cheaper that you will pay for

the same items in a tourist area.

www.facebook.com/dhukutiacp

RAMALAYA

A home-grown lifestyle brand that combines

Nepal's culture, conservation and creativity – with

two outlets in the city including one at Baber

Mahal Revisited – featuring homewares,

Himalayan-inspired gifts and other beautiful

items that you will want to take home with you.

We particularly love the tree free Loktha

notebooks by Lasha Mutual which come in a

variety of different designs, and Nepalese artist

Tenzin Norbu's paintings and line drawings of the

Dolpo region where he was born, translated into

linen and silk cushions.

www.ramalayadesignestablishment.com

RAMALAYA

MARINA VAPTZAROVA

From the sustainable traditions of the Himalayas to

the trends of Paris, Marina Vaptzarova's designs

celebrate a meeting of the old and the new and the

rough and the delicate. Each of Vaptzarova's journal

and lifestyle products comes with a story card,

sharing the detail behind the product’s inspiration

and the number of skilled hands involved in making

it. Vaptzarova's luxe, handmade notebooks, journals

and guestbooks are tactile, beautiful and functional,

and wonderful combinations of organic textures,

bold colours and different materials.

www.marinavaptzarova.com

DHUKUTI


MARINA VAPTZAROVA

HIMALAYA EVEREST EDITION BY KOBOLD

ARDOR KNITWEARS

A must for lovers of quality cashmere and knitwear.

Ardor is a one stop shop offering a variety of superior

garments which would cost two or three times more

in any of the world’s fashion capitals. Ardor’s

cashmere items are made from longer, finer fibres

which are softer and resist piling; more tightly

knitted so they retain their beauty for much longer;

and the cross section and drape of Ardor cashmere

actually improves through wear and washing, as the

fibre strands open up to become fuller and softer. It’s

impossible to leave Ardor without at least one new

cashmere piece for your wardrobe!

www.ardorknitwears.com

HAND MADE POTTERY

Traditionally spun and fired clay pots are a fine

example of Nepal’s thriving craft trades. In

Bhaktapur’s pottery square, a traditional way of life

still exists, and pots continue to be made the

old-fashioned way. It’s a fascinating process to

watch, more so perhaps because of the people than

the actual pot making. If the sun is shining, the

square’s wide-open brick courtyard will be awash

with a mix of small grey and brownish-red clay pots,

in sections depending on their design or purpose. In

amongst this maze of clay, you’ll see two or three

people tending to each pot, much like a dedicated

gardener tending to plants. Every pot is examined

before being turned to face the sun at a new angle,

or dipped into a bucket of coloured water. Finished

pieces can be purchased at any one of a number of

stalls around the square.

KOBOLD

With every Kobold watch comes a story, but none

more interesting than the limited edition US$16,500

model made with a piece of rock from the summit of

Mount Everest, used in the face of the Himalaya

Everest Edition. A very exclusive edition of just 25

watches were made from two rocks collected on the

actual summit by Sir Ranulph Fiennes and the

company’s owner, Michael Kobold, both of whom

were threatened with incarceration by the Nepali

authorities for taking the summit rocks.

Unfortunately, the Himalaya Everest Edition watch is

sold out, but you can browse other Kobold

timepieces at Baber Mahal Revisited in Kathmandu.

www.koboldwatch.com


ALBA INTERNATIONAL WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR

Aromatic white truffles - the lumpy, smelly fungi that resemble ugly potatoes -

line-up to be auctioned at the annual international truffle fair held in the Italian town of Alba.

7 October - 26 November 2017 www.fieradeltartufo.org

Mediterranean Suite

Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum


Not all hotels are designed equally – this is a simple fact. No matter

how much money is spent, marble lavished, oak varnished, terrazzo

laid and gilt applied, it is essentially the design, attention to detail,

F&B and functionality of a property that sets one apart from the rest.

And in the case of the Mandarin Oriental in Bodrum, its suites are some of the

best designed I have ever seen, especially the Mediterranean Suite I had the good

fortune to road test for a long weekend towards the tail end of summer, which, I

might add, is an excellent time to visit any resort if one wishes to avoid crowds

and kids. Don’t get me wrong, I love children, but when splashing this kind of

cash, one imagines that a discerning traveller surely requires some peace and

quiet to tenderly take in and revel in the pure unadulterated high-end hospitality

gorgeousness of it all. Not to mention enjoy the luxe facilities, appreciate the

carefully considered touches and admire the beautiful finishing. As I was

reluctantly packing to check-out of 145m 2 of suite bliss, a sleek black helicopter,

with a modern fan-in-fin style tail rotor, landed a few hundred metres away,

gently depositing a group of guests within the resort. How envious I was of them

at the beginning of their deluxe Bodrum break, just as I was leaving.

Bodrum was not always a playground for the wealthy and fabulous. On the


contrary, apart from ground-breaking boho chic beach club and boutique hotel,

Maçakazi, which twenty years ago started Bodrum on its luxury travel trajectory,

for much of its early touristic life the destination was serviced by bargain basement

charter flights filled with cheap and cheerful sunshine seekers. The plethora of

superyachts parked in and around Paradise Bay and its surrounding crystalline

waters today, together with six-star spas, supermodels and billionaires sipping

expensive malts and magnums of fine bubbly, have all arrived in recent years.

Nowadays the pretty Turkish peninsula is a go-to destination for discriminating

travellers, and has done a rather good job of setting to one discreetly fenced-off

side, its once widespread image of tourist hordes, cheap bars and all-night discos.

When in 2005 Kempinski opened a delightful 173-room resort overlooking

Barbaros Bay, there soon followed a noticeable increase in the number of gullets

(traditional Turkish wooden sailing boats) in the waters around Bodrum, and

increasingly larger yachts began to appear more regularly, the like of which had

previously dropped anchor in the Caribbean for the European winters. Next came

36-cottage Amanruya in 2011, a then eye-wateringly pricey (for the area)

ultra-exclusive Aman property. Beautifully laid out on multiple levels of a

hillside, amidst an ancient olive grove, Amanruya is skilfully bedded into its

surroundings by a strong architectural synergy to regional villages, and further

elevated Bodrum’s hospitality image, just 75-minutes flying time south of

Istanbul. The introduction of direct flights from a number of important travel

hubs, not least London and Dubai, positively beckoned premium class

passengers to at least investigate Turkey’s premier resort town and Aegean coast

yachting center. Since then, top end travellers have kept coming back, and some

would say that this class of holidaymaker now outnumbers the budget brigade,

at the very least in their spending power.

Mandarin Oriental is an iconic Asian luxury hotel group which prides itself on its

excellent service, high quality accommodations, Asian authenticity and top

global locations. In short, the brand provides 21 st century luxury with oriental

charm and finesse in some of the world's most desirable destinations. So,

Mandarin’s first Turkish outpost was always going to be very special.

Purpose built to cater for people who take their holidaying very seriously, and opened

in 2014 to much fanfare, Mandarin Oriental Bodrum is a sprawling ultra-elite resort

of 129 oversized guestrooms, suites, apartments and villas, all of which are amongst

the largest five-star lodgings on the peninsula. Each has its own sun-deck, terrace or

balcony, and many have lush private gardens and generous infinity pools.

Irrespective of size, every guest room is dedicated to the art of vacationing, from the

spacious 72m 2 entry-level garden view rooms, which are bigger than many a

standard hotel suite, to the bulletproof 7-bedroom presidential villa coming in at EUR

40k/night. And once inside the complex there is basically no reason to leave, since

absolutely everything one could possibly wish for whilst on holiday is quite literally at

the end of a cobblestoned path, timber boardwalk or ‘0’ on the phone.

Pretty much everything has been designed with exclusivity in mind. A fleet of

leather-upholstered buggies swish guests around in the appropriate fashion,

between the sumptuous three-storey spa complete with VIP penthouse and

garden cabanas, Blue Beach Club on the edge of the Aegean, a multitude of

gastronomic options, and jetties against which superyachts are routinely

moored whilst their passengers dine on innovative Japanese fare at Kurochan by

Ioki, overlooking the resort’s main sands. The possibilities for eating, drinking,

reclining and enjoying life to the full are seemingly endless within the portals of

this idyllic 60-hectare vacation paradise.

As I’ve always said, luxury is different things to different people. For some, space

and time and freedom is all they’ve ever wanted. For others, rich fabrics, deep


duvets, plush drapes and cashmere blankets make their world go around. In the

case of a Mediterranean Suite at Mandarin Oriental Bodrum, the luxury

inimitably lies in the height, light, design and, most of all, the attention to

interior detailing. This is one exceptionally well planned and executed suite,

delivering perfectly on all the levels one would expect at its price point.

What strikes you immediately, once through the gloriously tall solid wood

entrance doors, is the sense of serenity and calm which permeates the large

loft-like space. This is thanks to the abundance of natural daylight which floods

in through 12-metres of floor-to-ceiling doors filling one wall of the lounge –

which open onto a private garden and pool – plus two giant skylights, one of

which illuminates the bathroom from above. Married with the liberal use of

different types of stone and timber, not to mention Turkish rugs and naturally

coloured furnishings, cushions and curtains, the overall effect is one of immense

warmth and calm quite literally from the moment you enter. Dark wood tables

with dark green marble surfaces, and timeless teak armchairs meticulously

upholstered, are juxtapositioned with grooved white stone walls which add a

subtle touch of 70s glam. Furniture of varying heights – including a cool

high-top table topped with a slab of locally quarried stone and surrounded by


EXPLORE

VIENNESE ELEGANCE AND LUXURY

IN THE HISTORICAL HEART OF THE CITY

HYATT Namen, PARK HYATT und verwandte Marken, sind Marken der Hyatt Corporation. © 2017 Hyatt Corporation. Alle Rechte vorbehalten

DISCOVER PARK HYATT VIENNA FEATURING 143 LUXURIOUS GUEST ROOMS,

FOUR DINING OUTLETS AND AN EXTENSIVE SPA.

FOR RESERVATIONS PLEASE VISIT PARKHYATTVIENNA.COM.

chunky solid wood stools – draw the eye to all parts of the space, which serves as an extension to the pool deck when the

massive 3m square doors are fully open. Off the lounge, a stainless-steel kitchenette is connected to the real world via a separate

entrance so butlers can discreetly deliver room service, and a guest powder room is laden with Shanghai Tang toiletries.

Outside, the enclosed private gardens and large infinity pool – the latter lined in rich Verde Guetamala sourced from India –

combine to create the perfect ode to al fresco eating, poolside lounging and sun worshipping in supreme style, complete with a

huge curtained day bed, outdoor shower, oversized loungers and dining for six.

In the bedroom, night lights are discreetly built into bespoke hand-woven leather headboards, bedside table panels feature a

‘blackout’ button which works to a tee, soft furnishings abound in soothing tones, and more floor-to-ceiling doors slide open

towards the private back garden. In the spacious master bath, a beige deep-soaking tub sits a few metres away from a long

vanity topped with handmade porcelain bowls finished in a stunning cracked turquoise glaze. A massive walk-in shower

enclosure at one end of the room boasts a variety of showering options and doubles up as a steam room.

Since the design and décor is so spot on, artwork, flowers and objet d’art would be superfluous anywhere within this suite. Such

design perfection is not easy to achieve in any environment, let alone hotels, which are notorious for their louche impersonality.

Acclaimed international designer, Antonio Citterio, is to be applauded for so perfectly executing such sweet accommodation, to not

only take full advantage of the resort’s outstanding vistas across Cennet Koyu, but also allow guests to feel at one with nature.

I am rarely one to stay behind closed doors, especially when presented with the excitement of a new destination. Blurring the

lines between inside and out, rendering everything as one immaculate Mandarin Oriental hospitality world, so perfectly designed

was my Mediterranean Suite that, despite the lure of happening beach clubs and gourmet restaurants mere minutes from my

abode, I was reluctant to leave it for the duration of my time in Bodrum. On check-out day, I extended my departure time as late

as I possibly could without offending the hosts at my next stop. Next time, perhaps it would be easier not to check out at all.

Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in a Mediterranean Suite at Mandarin Oriental Bodrum in

September 2017, when the nightly rate was EUR 3,725 inclusive of breakfast and taxes.

www.mandarinoriental.com/bodrum


SALON DU CHOCOLAT

Models attired in couture outfits made entirely from chocolate, line-up at

the end of a fashion show at the annual Salon Du Chocolat festival in Paris

28 October - 1 November 2017 www.salonduchocolat.fr


A HISTORY OF IN-F

LIGHT GLAMOUR

BRANIFF INTERNATIONAL

BY EMILIO PUCCI, 1965

BOEING AIR TRANSPORT, 1930

To say that air travel has come a long way since 1930, when

the first stewardesses of Boeing Air Transport lined-up for

inspection, would be a gross understatement. To say that air

travel has changed in the past decade or two would also be

understating it somewhat. The truth of the matter is that air

travel is constantly evolving. Whether it is all good, or

progressive, is a completely different subject for discussion.

These days it is barely possible to keep up with the changing

way we fly through the skies.

We now have double decker jets capable of carrying six

hundred or more people in one aircraft. If the hype is to be

believed, before long we will once again be hurtling around

the globe, on the edge of the earth’s atmosphere, at

supersonic speeds. Not to mention space tourism, and the

possibility of air travel taking us into another galaxy (well,

perhaps not quite that far, yet). Let’s be honest though, with

the exception of the space tourism, Etihad’s one-bedroom

on-board ‘Residence’, and Virgin Atlantic generally (we’ll

come to Richard Branson later), how often to do you hear

something about air travel these days that’s fabulous,

fashionable or glamorous?!

The introduction of new routes is not really aviation news

anymore. The unveiling of a massive new terminal may just

about make the front page of the air travel press. Even many

of today’s premium cabins just contain bigger seats, offer

better food and are presided over by more experienced and

patient crew. It really is a sorry state of affairs when an

airline issues a global press release about a new amenity

kit! All of this comes down to one thing: Sadly, there is

simply very little glamour in our skies today. But this wasn’t

always the case.

Security measures have obviously changed the way we fly

but these are unavoidable. Tedious travel restrictions don’t

exactly elevate the passenger experience. Moving through a

humungous airport terminal, which handles tens of millions


PAN AMERICAN WORLD AIRWAYS, 1959

UNITED AIRLINES, 1939

of passengers per year, is like being processed through an

aviation factory and really no fun at all. So today, when our

carry-on bags are stuffed with in-flight survival necessities,

like eye masks, noise-cancelling headsets and Valium (to

numb the entire experience), it’s hard to imagine the glory

days of aviation, back when air travel was glamorous and

elite, and flight attendant style went far beyond the

standard issue uniforms of today. But at aviation’s most

glamorous height, flying was a special occasion that

necessitated passengers dress to impress. Full meals were

served with real silverware (even in economy), and flight

attendants were expected to fulfil certain physical and

beauty criteria in order to walk the aisles in the sky.

High fashion is not exactly the first thing that springs to

mind when, as a passenger, you step on board a plane in

2017 and are greeted by cabin crew. On the contrary, the

ultra-conservative two-piece suits most flight attendants

wear are downright dull and dreary. But for every dowdy

SOUTHWEST AIRLINES, 1973

uniform you see on-board today's airlines, there’s an

incredibly rich history of stylish designer airline

threads, that stretches back to the golden age of

aviation. At one point, many top couture houses

counted an airline amongst their clients. Pierre

Cardin, Christian Dior, Emilio Pucci, Balenciaga, Yves

Saint Laurent and Valentino all designed bespoke

flight attendant uniforms, back in the day.

TRANSCONTINENTAL & WESTERN AIR (TWA), 1956

BRANIFF INTERNATIONAL BY EMILIO PUCCI, 1960s

It’s not difficult to trace the trajectory of the flight

attendant uniform, from its sober pre-WWII

beginnings, to its glamorous mid-century glory days,

through decades of enjoying the haute couture

treatment, followed by its sad decline to the

dull-as-dishwater uniforms we largely see now (with

one exception).

In 1930, after convincing Boeing Air Transport (now

United) that the presence of on-board nurses would

help passengers overcome their fear of flying, Ellen

Church became the very first airline “stewardess”.

Seven other ladies soon joined Church's team, but

since they had to be registered nurses, their uniforms

were basically nurse’s attire, made of dark green

wool, with matching green and grey wool capes,

complete with caps. Since then, when efficient,

caped nurses became the first stewardesses, it's been

a tradition for flight attendants to look good while

ensuring that passengers are comfortable and safe,

and for the next decade or so, all stewardess

uniforms looked alike. Basically, the only colours used

were navy blue, dark green and brown for winter

uniforms, and light blue, light green and beige for

summer uniforms. All very conservative.

WWII saw the emergence of slightly more feminine,

less conservative uniforms, not least because there

were widespread crackdowns on the use of fabric

for non-military purposes. As soon as WWII was

over, the airline industry exploded with the

introduction of the jumbo jet. Commercial airlines

could hold more passengers, which meant that

prices became more accessible for the average

person. All of a sudden, anyone on a middle-class

salary could afford air travel, which is something

that had never been so available before. This saw

the role of the stewardess develop, and soon they

became associated with jet-setting and a

free-spirited cosmopolitan lifestyle.


During the late 1950s and 1960s, when commercial

flight really began to take off and fast became a

booming business, more airlines launched and

suddenly inter-airline competition intensified. This

caused airlines to explore how they differentiate

themselves. Before long they began to turn to fashion

designers and ad agencies to cultivate a sexier image

for their flight attendants, and they all wanted the

prestige of a big-name designer attached to their

brand. For the fashion house, airlines promised

large-scale ad campaigns that were almost certain to

get their designs noticed, and attract a large amount

of publicity to the designer and the label, so it was a

win-win for everyone.

In the mid-60s - when the Space Race coincided

with the rise of air travel - Braniff International

Airways capitalised on the excitement of the moment

by hiring advertising exec Mary Wells Lawrence to

mastermind the airline's brand identity. Lawrence in

turn hired designer Alexander Girard to work on the

ad campaign, and together they brought on-board

the Florentine fashion designer Emilio Pucci,

synonymous with geometric prints in a kaleidoscope

of colours. Pucci essentially turned aviation

marketing on its head overnight. Whether this was

intentional or not we will never know. But his

psychedelic flight attendant outfit – known as the

"Supersonic Derby” – was an aviation show-stopper.

Comprising a geometric printed nylon dress with

matching tights and a bowler hat, the uniforms were

a theatrical take on Italian high fashion meets

intergalactic travel. Pucci even designed an

astronaut-inspired glass helmet called a “rain dome”,

to protect stewardesses’ hairdos on the journey from

the hotel via the terminal to the plane. Sadly, the

impractical glass helmets only lasted a month, since

there was nowhere to put them in-flight, but the fact

that they were even produced, and worn for a time,

says a great about the glamour and excitement

associated with the aviation industry in the 1960s.

There was even a somewhat titillating marketing

campaign for Braniff, called the “Air Strip”, featured a

Pucci-designed uniform with several layers that

could be removed inflight. The TV commercial even

went so far as to depict a stewardess performing an

airborne striptease. Of course, once Braniff turned the

stewardess into a fragrantly sexual icon, other airlines

soon followed. This culminated in Southwest Airlines


'RAIN DOME' BY EMILIO PUCCI, 1965

throwing caution to the wind with its 1973

stewardess attire, which included thigh-high

laced-up kinky boots and hot pants. Perhaps this was

a step too far!

Thanks to the revolutionary fashion of Dior and the

popularity of Chanel, the two-piece suit became the

basis of almost every flight attendant uniform in the

‘70s and ‘80s. All that really changed in these two

decades were the length of the hemlines, the width of

jacket lapels and the size of the padded shoulders.

Conservatism was back in the skies, and until very

recently, uniforms were uninteresting.

QANTAS AIRWAYS BY YVES SAINT LAURENT, 1986

The noticeable lack of glamour in our skies was

remedied only relatively recently by the grande

dame of British high fashion, Vivienne Westwood,

whose punk attitude is more alive now than in the

movement's Seventies heyday. Westwood designed

cutting-edge new uniforms to mark the 30 th

anniversary of Virgin Atlantic – incorporating her

well-tailored, figure-hugging signatures – which

are now worn by over 7,500 members of staff,

including cabin crew, pilots and ground staff. The

pairing of Westwood and Branson came as a

surprise to many, considering the designer’s

outspoken views on sustainability and unnecessary

waste. However, “sustainability” is the watchword

when it comes to Westwood’s 22-piece collection

for Virgin, which includes the use of a polyester yarn

made from recycled plastic bottles, a nano finish to

help retain colour and extend garment life, and bags

for ground staff that came about as a result of a

United Nations collaboration with the Ethical

Fashion Initiative in Nairobi. Yet the ‘40s-inspired

uniforms for Virgin’s high-flying crew don’t sacrifice

beautiful design and strong tailoring. On the

contrary, standouts include a bright red jacket –

inspired by the Bettina jacket Westwood designed in

the early '90s – paired with a matching red pencil

skirt and red shoes with an hourglass heel (a

Westwood signature). Meanwhile the guys are

sporting sharp, three-piece burgundy wool suits

inspired by Savile Row tailoring. Let’s hope that

Westwood’s collection for Virgin has kick-started

the reintroduction of some glamour into our skies.

Like the return of supersonic air travel, and

rocket-powered craft taking us into space for a

weekend jaunt, we can but dream.

UNION DE TRANSPORT AÉRIENS BY PIERRE CARDIN, 1968


VIRGIN ATLANTIC AIRWAYS BY VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, 2014

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR

A coiffured camel waits with its handler to be paraded past judges at the

annual camel fair in Pushkar, an Indian town bordering the Thar Desert in Rajasthan

28 October - 4 November 2017 www.pushkar-camel-fair.com

ALEX BENASULI takes a jaunt to the

beautiful Balearic island of Mallorca, for a

helping of end of season Spanish sun at

a classic full-service deluxe resort


No Shoes Required

AT

ST. REGIS MARDAVALL


T

he largest of Spain’s Balearic Islands has

been one of Europe’s most popular holiday

destinations for decades. Blessed with 300

sunny days every year, together with warm

temperatures that stretch from mid-March to

mid-October, Mallorca has something for everyone. Long,

sandy beaches and more intimate rocky coves serve as the

backdrop to historic sites, exclusive marinas, happening

beach clubs and quality seafood restaurants. Traditional

communities are interspersed with luxury villas and more

commercial tourist districts, in a way that doesn’t

compromise the sheer beauty of this stunning Spanish

island. Away from the coast, mountain ranges carve up in

the interior into peaks, valleys and plains of immaculate

stone villages, groves of almond and olive trees, pine

forests and Mallorquin windmills.

Because Mallorca was ruled by the Moors for 300 years, a

lot of place names sound a little Arabic. You can visit

bodegas and vineyards in Binissalem, the heart of

Mallorca’s boutique wine industry. Or pick oranges in the

beautiful valley of Sóller, which is particularly gorgeous

during the first few months of the year when the fruit are

ripe. And the mountains in the south-west, between

Andratx and Cap Deia, are simply stunning to cruise

through, especially in a cabriolet.

Palma, the island’s seafront capital, is a bustling city of

400,000 with one of the most beautiful cathedrals in Spain,

centuries of history and vibrant arts, shopping and

gastronomic scenes. Sun worshippers and boating

aficionados enjoy the sandy beaches and coastal scenery.

Nature lovers adore exploring the island’s many national

parks. Culture vultures are drawn to the handful of villages

that have fostered artists for generations. And foodies revel

in the burgeoning agro tourism scene, which has opened up

to visitors Mallorca’s ecology, farming, local gastronomy and

island customs. Whether you like your holiday chilled and

relaxed or full of activities, it’s easy to see why Mallorca’s

all-round appeal is so alluring.

There are times in life when only a full-service luxury resort

will do. When that resort is set in its own, private sprawling

garden complex, in the shadow of the Serra de Tramuntana

mountain range and directly in front of the tranquil

Mediterranean, then even better. Add to this the reputation

for sophistication and modern luxury that have become

defining characteristics of the St. Regis brand, and you

basically have the makings of a hospitality winner.

Twenty minutes from Palma’s well-connected international

airport, St. Regis Mardavall, located on Mallorca’s

southwestern coast, is a true destination within a

destination, and epitomises the essence of a classic

high-end resort hotel. A long driveway flanked by mountain

vistas and Mediterranean landscaping, leads arriving guests

to the property’s main building, of three. Designed in

traditional Mallorquin finca style - in a combination of

stone, ochre stucco, tiling and exposed timber – it is

imposing yet not grandiose.

Check-in takes place on one of the hotel’s numerous

terraces, which offer views over perfectly manicured lawns

towards the sparkling blue sea. Welcome drinks and light

bites ease the arrival process, as the welcoming and efficient

reception staff take care of all the formalities, and promptly

ensure that guests feel right at home and begin to relax in

the first moments of their stay. Soaking up gentle sea

breezes, and adapting to the calm of such a gorgeous spot

and unhurried pace of life, is quite a start to one’s holiday.

One of the hallmarks of the St. Regis experience is the brand’s

renowned butler service and its Mardavall property is no

exception. Professional butlers help guests unpack, serve

complimentary coffee and newspapers each morning, arrange

for clothes to be pressed and are generally available 24/7. St.

Regis does butlering very well indeed. And, knowing that one’s

personal butler is but a button away, is a somewhat decadent

luxury that utterly elevates the guest experience to another level.

Once installed in a guest room and unpacked, one’s shoes

can come off and travel clothes swapped for pool and

beachwear. The hotel’s 125 rooms and suites are large, and

the vast majority have full or partial sea views. All have

terraces. Even entry-level room categories have separate

sitting and work areas. Beds are enormous and supremely

comfortable. Bathrooms feature double washbasins, big

bathtubs and walk-in showers. Terraces are sufficiently

ample to dine al fresco, as well as recline on comfy deck

chairs draped with blankets on slightly chillier evenings

outside of the mid-summer months. Suites come in various

configurations and some include jacuzzis, kitchenettes and

private plunge pools. Families have the added benefit of

being able to select rooms that can interconnect to form

serviced apartment-style vacationing. All guest

accommodations will be remodelled and upgraded when

the property closes in mid-November. Come early spring

2018, visitors will experience a more contemporary and

bold, yet elegant palette. Rooms will feature wood floors

and a more classic Mediterranean look will prevail, with dark

blue accents offsetting the gorgeous natural light that fills

every room.

Early mornings on the terrace, sipping freshly brewed

coffee, nibbling on warm croissant and perusing my

newspaper of choice, with the sea in front of me, was

sublime. Large expanses of well-manicured and luxuriant

gardens, together with lush green lawns, beckon from every


angle. A barefoot stroll across the garden is the best

shortcut to the swimming pool, cascading over three levels

and rumoured to be the largest in Mallorca. Comfy chairs for

lounging surround the pool, and are strategically placed in

clusters amidst the greenery, providing guests with a degree

of space and privacy. Canopied outdoor beds cater to those

who take their chillaxing more seriously. Taking short walks

around the grounds, thick blades of grass underfoot,

exploring the different vantage points of the sea and shady

spots beneath the trees, are a great way to pass the time

while expertly pursuing the art of lounging.

Inevitably St. Regis Mardavall is popular with families,

particularly during school holidays. In another section of the

garden, close enough for parents to stroll over and check up

on their brood but far enough away so as not hear them, the

hotel’s kids club comprises two shaded swimming pools

and a club house, and provides all manner of organised

activities for younger guests. This set-up skillfully keeps the

main pool primarily for adults, while children have their own

domain in which to have the time of their lives.

Spa and wellness fans will likely fall in love with St. Regis

Mardavall. An oasis of tranquility, its Arabella Spa is truly

exceptional and offers the most extensive variety of

treatments on the island. Like a hidden Atlantis within the

resort, an indoor pool flows into an outdoor pool, with

another array of lounging areas for those seeking more

privacy. Guests unwind in saunas, steam baths and an

Egyptian saltwater pool. More than a dozen treatment

rooms offer everything from nail care and traditional

massages to luxuriant rituals and anti-aging therapies. Two

dedicated traditional Chinese medicine doctors are on hand

to delve into their millennia-long heritage, and address

everything from sleep issues to digestion and joint pains.

Chinese medicine is not only about acupuncture and

acupressure - bespoke herbal remedies and teas are an

intrinsic part of treatments, and leave guests feeling

personally looked after and recharged. Spending half a day

or even a few hours at Arabella Spa is akin to temporarily

tapping into a fountain of youth.

Whilst St. Regis Mardavall is a relaxed place and

positively encourages bare feet and beachwear by day,

you might be tempted to smarten up a touch of an

evening. Champagne cocktails and canapés are served

nightly. Es Fum, the hotel’s intimate and elegant gourmet

restaurant, was awarded a Michelin star in 2011 for its


innovative and exquisite cuisine. Any restaurant that

starts a meal off with not one, or two, but five different

flavoured butters, will always have a place in my heart.

Hibiscus infused sea salt was a first and hopefully not the

last, and my main of creamy rice adorned with

langoustines and prawns, served with a grapefruit

vinaigrette, was literally to die for. The five to

seven-course Mediterranean, seasonal and local

produce-inspired tasting menus, prepared under the

direction of talented chef de cuisine José Miguel Navarro,

are exceptional and worth splashing out for, especially

with wines expertly paired by sommelier Javier Gómez.

Dining al fresco on Es Fum’s timeless terrace, whilst

taking in the picture postcard views, is a gastronomic

treat not to be missed when on Mallorca, whether staying

at the hotel or not. (www.restaurant-esfum.com)

It is tempting to never leave the grounds during one’s stay at

St. Regis Mardavall, since residents are so spoilt for choice.

Either stay onsite, de-stress, unwind and allow yourself to be

pampered, or venture out of the hotel and become immersed in

the endless possibilities that the island has to offer. As tempting

as the latter may sound, trust me, once your shoes are off and

your body is kissed by the sun, it’s not easy to put them back

on. I could have easily stayed nestled in between the mountains

and seas, amidst the bucolic lushness and five-star facilities of

St. Regis Mardavall, for a very long time.

www.stregismardavall.com


SPOTLIGHT

ON

THE PENINSULA PARIS


In the heart of the world’s most fashionable city, The

Peninsula Paris is a magnificently restored neo-classical

palace with walls that could tell a thousand tales – of

Proust and Picasso, war heroes and villains, international

peace treaties and romantic rendezvous. DAWN GIBSON

finds out how the Grande Dame of La Belle Époque is

setting new standards for top-tier luxury

Less than ten minutes’ walk from the Arc de Triomphe and fronting one of the grand avenues which radiate from the

iconic monument, The Peninsula Paris is the essence of French style set in stone. Opened in August 2014 by the

high-end hospitality group Peninsula, as its first foray into the European market, the hotel and The Cultured Traveller

both celebrate their third anniversaries this year. The building had lain dormant for years before a painstaking,

multi-million-Euro restoration simultaneously revitalised the truly magnificent edifice while discretely installing the array of 21 st

century facilities expected by the most demanding of cosmopolitan travellers.

In a city where space has always been at a premium, The Peninsula Paris proudly fills an entire block fronting gracious,

tree-lined Avenue Kléber, a short stroll from the designer boutiques of the Champs-Élysées and many of the city’s most

famous landmarks. Even the most well-travelled guest would be hard-pressed not to feel a mild thrill watching the sun go

down over the Eiffel Tower while enjoying the 360-degree vistas from L’Oiseau Blanc restaurant on the hotel’s rooftop.

Originally named the Majestic when it opened in 1908 - during the heady days of La Belle Époque - the hotel’s connections to

high society and royalty date back more than 150 years. A wealthy Russian nobleman built a palace on the site in 1864, which

he sold to a representative of Queen Isabella II of Spain in 1868, when revolution forced her to seek exile in Paris. The Queen

abdicated two years later and continued to live in her Paris home, then called the Palais de Castille, until her death in 1904.



Hotel mogul Leonard Tauber became the new owner and

constructed the Majestic, retaining some of the vestiges of

the old Spanish palace, including Queen Isabella’s marble

bath. The landmark hotel, a classic French building

featuring Haussman and neo-classical detailing, swiftly

became a favourite with the crème de la crème of Paris. Its

reputation as the place to be seen was given a stellar boost

by a legendary dinner party in 1922, held in a private room

after the premiere of Stravinsky’s newest work, Renard, at

the Opéra Garnier. Joining the famous composer at the

after-party were some of the leading lights of the 20 th

century art world, including Pablo Picasso, James Joyce,

Marcel Proust and Ballets Russes’ founder Sergei Diaghilev.

The conversation must have fizzed with as much sparkle as

the champagne. The Majestic’s elite reputation was further

cemented when George Gershwin composed An American

in Paris while staying in a suite at the hotel in 1928.

On an equally fascinating but more sober note, the

building’s past is intimately entwined with some of the 20 th

century’s greatest conflicts. It served as a military hospital in

WWI, and was used as the headquarters of the German high

command during the occupation of Paris in WWII – a failed

plot to assassinate Hitler was concocted by a rebel officer

from his rooms on the second floor. The building was the

first headquarters of UNESCO from 1946 until 1958, and

provided the setting for the signing of the Paris Peace

Accords in 1973. If you have a tipple in Le Bar Kléber you will

be standing in the salon where the Vietnam War was

officially brought to a close.

After such an eventful past, it is only fitting that the building

has been reincarnated as one of Paris’ most opulent hotels.

The four-year restoration project employed more than 900

talented artisans, many from traditional French family firms.

The badly damaged exterior façade required the work of 40

stonemasons, with each individual stone flower and bow

taking days to complete. A wealth of fine marble, mosaics,

gold leafing, mouldings, wood carvings and fine paintings

were preserved and restored using the same techniques

and finishes as the originals, under the watchful eyes of

some of France’s best heritage experts. For example, two

paintings on the ceiling of Le Lounge Kléber were restored

by Cinzia Pasquali, who has restored paintings by da Vinci

at the Louvre and Versailles. The attention to detail is

staggering – a total of 1,000 pieces of woodwork were

restored, while 20,000 pieces of gold leaf were used.

Throughout the aim was to preserve the authenticity and

opulent beauty of the hospitality grande dame, while

leading her gracefully into the 21 st century. The result is an

LE LOBBY

extraordinary 200-room hotel which thoroughly deserves

the accolade of ‘Palace’, bestowed upon it a year ago by

Atout France, the French tourism development agency. The

award is an official recognition given only to a select

number of five-star hotels that meet stringent criteria, as

well as boasting elements such as an exceptional location

or history.

The opulence of the décor is abundantly apparent from the

moment you enter Le Lobby, which skilfully treads the fine

line between lavish and ostentatious. Highly polished

marble floors are matched by high gilded and painted

curved ceilings. The walls are a palatial combination of

cream and gold. The furniture is modern and sophisticated

in a matching palette. A glass room divider brilliantly

scatters the light from the bespoke chandeliers in a dozen

different directions. The message of the hotel’s principal

interior designer Henry Leung is clear: harmony and

contrast in everything, both old and new.

Visible through the vast windows is one of the biggest al

fresco dining terraces in Paris, where guests contentedly sip

their café au lait whilst choosing between Continental,

American or Chinese breakfasts, the latter including the

likes of caramelised pork bun and congee with beef, one of

the many nods to Peninsula’s Asian heritage.

The most striking feature of a second grand (though slightly

less extravagant) entrance off a side avenue, is a

magnificent installation of 800 hand-blown glass leaves by

Czech workshop Lasvit, inspired by the plane trees which

are a ubiquitous feature of the Parisian streetscape.

Surrounded by cool marble, the leaves appear to be dancing

in the air before falling into a symbolic pond - a Bhutanese

rock sculpture at the installation’s base. It is one of two

Lasvit installations in the hotel – the other is ‘Pearl Necklace’

in the Rotunda, a 300kg crystal light sculpture inspired by

19 th century Czech jewellery. Observant guests will notice a

striking range of contemporary works around every corner,

by artists including Ben Jakober, Xavier Corbero, Nathalie

Decoster, José Pedro Croft, Michel Alexis and Ran Hwang.

As one would expect when rates start at EUR 950 per night,

the guest rooms at The Peninsula Paris are sumptuous even

by luxury standards. All are exceptionally large, with

superior and deluxe rooms ranging from 30m 2 to 50m 2 ,

while the suites are some of the most spacious in Paris. A

deluxe room is akin to a sophisticated, well-designed city

centre pad, decorated in a calming palette of neutrals. A

petite balcony overlooks a quiet street. There is a

well-appointed desk and sitting area as well as a spacious

dressing room with generous luggage and wardrobe space.

And a large, exquisite all-marble bathroom boasts a deep

soaking bathtub, separate rain shower and double basins.

Throughout, the décor deftly blends Asian and European

influences. A contemporary abstract painting may add a

splash of crimson to one wall, whilst a single white orchid

standing in a simple black vase accessorises another, and a

dainty porcelain Chinese tea service sits next to the coffee

machine. All of this exquisite attention to detail sits

side-by-side with state-of-the-art technology. Customised,

interactive bedside and desk tablets control everything from

the lighting to the room temperature, as well as the

ubiquitous concealed large screen TV. And there are a

number of thoughtful little touches designed to elevate the

guest experience, including a valet box so guests can

receive their freshly laundered clothes without being

disturbed, and a nail polish drying station.


While there is not space here to detail the hotel’s six divine

bars and restaurants, two are particularly notable.

Cantonese fine dining restaurant LiLi is exceptional for both

its ambience and cuisine – the décor taking its cue from

Chinese and Western opera, with backdrops of traditional

costumes and headdresses, Chinese wood carvings and

towering red drapes adding a dramatic flair amplified by the

theatrical approach to service. Also not to be missed is the

rooftop terrace on the sixth floor, where you can drink in the

outstanding views whilst sipping a cocktail or two.

One final recommendation: make time for a treatment at the

beautifully appointed day spa. One of the city’s largest, it’s

worth heeding the advice to arrive an hour before your

treatment time to take full advantage of the facilities. The

thermal suite includes one of the most relaxing steam

rooms I have ever experienced - a warm cocoon of curved

tiled benches and soothing ceiling lights. A Cha Ling

massage in the hands of therapist Berenice will round off

your stay in an advanced state of euphoria.

It is understandably difficult to leave The Peninsula Paris,

even if only after a short stay. The very best hotels can

imbue a truly unique feeling in a guest: the sense of finding

a sumptuous haven; a hotel whose staff are so good at

their jobs that one feels that everything is effortlessly

attended to with genuine warmth, and, finally, a place

where elegance and style blend seamlessly. The restoration

was indeed a massive and hugely expensive undertaking,

but cultured travellers will undoubtedly be thankful for

decades to come.

paris.peninsula.com


BAHRAIN WORLD TRADE CENTRE


TRAVELLER

LOWDOWN

Few people realise when they

land in Bahrain that they have

actually touched down in the

country’s capital, Manama, a

city so influenced by the

Portuguese and Persians that

it’s overflowing with historic

and cultural must-see sites.

DILRAZ KUNNUMMAL gives us

her insider guide to the

bustling Gulf metropolis, which

is as renowned throughout the

region for its vibrant nightlife

scene as it is for its Middle

Eastern authenticity.

752 GOURAUD STREET • SAIFI VILLAGE • BEIRUT • LEBANON • +961 76 99 76 76 • INFO@GILTBEIRUT.COM • WWW.GILTBEIRUT.COM

NATIONAL THEATRE

Island of pearls, land of smiles and home to the

ancient enigmatic Dilmun civilisation, the tiny

kingdom of Bahrain has many monikers. Located in

the Persian Gulf, over the years the country has

become an increasingly popular destination for seasoned

travellers, not least due to its unique mix of culture,

tradition and modernity, married with natural vistas and

architectural marvels, populated by wonderfully warm and

welcoming people. Moreover, like Oman, Bahrain has

managed to retain much of its traditional character,

charm and values.

Although the smallest GCC country, the archipelago of 33

islands (of which just two are populated - Manama and

Muharraq) has plenty to offer anyone who lands on its

shores - from sites seeped in history to natural wonders,

and fine dining to blissful beach resorts. While Muharraq is

the soul of the country’s ancient pearl trading industry,

Hawar Island (a 45-minute boat ride from Manama) is

where sea turtles lay their eggs in the sand. Bahrain is

nothing if not a country of pleasurable extremes.

Bahrain’s historical significance dates back many millennia,

to a time when it was known as Dilmun, a Semitic-speaking

country, mentioned throughout the history of Mesopotamia

from the 3 rd millennium BC onwards. Regarded as one of the

oldest civilisations in the Middle East, Dilmun was also one of

the most prosperous. Such historical influences continue to

be evident in modern day Bahrain. Recent years have seen

the country’s capital, Manama, bloom into a veritable Middle

Eastern paradise for residents and visitors alike. Sprawling

malls, hospitality gems and entertainment venues enhance

the city’s understated regional trendsetting reputation.

Notably, in 2004 Bahrain was the first country in the Middle

East to host Formula One’s swirl of supercars. The

high-profile event has been staged yearly ever since, with the

exception of 2011, when, due to the Arab Spring, the country

was engulfed in protest and the race had to be cancelled.

Located barely 15 minutes from the country’s main airport,

for many, Manama, Bahrain’s capital, never really sleeps.

Late night eateries and bustling coffee shops vie with a

seemingly 24-hour nightlife scene to keep the city’s tourists,


AL-FATEH MOSQUE

Late night eateries and

bustling coffee shops vie

with a seemingly

24-hour nightlife scene

to keep the city’s

tourists, entrepreneurs,

high-flying execs, Gulf

residents and holidaying

celebs entertained

entrepreneurs, high-flying execs, Gulf residents and holidaying

celebs entertained. From the beginning of the weekend, the

16-mile King Fahd Causeway (which links Bahrain to the

wealthy but strictly proscriptive neighbouring Saudi Arabia to

the south) is jammed with cars and SUVs, as Arabs from other

Gulf states pour into Bahrain to enjoy its relative freedoms.

In Manama there’s a myriad of options to set up base camp.

From five-star hotels in the heart of the city to relaxed

beach resorts on its outskirts, the capital of Bahrain provides

a wide range of lodging options to rest one’s head, sufficient

to satisfy the needs of every type of traveller, from those on

a budget to the world’s most demanding.

Situated on its own private island accessed by causeway,

yacht or water-taxi, the soaring contemporary architectural

statement made by Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay –

Manama’s most luxurious hospitality address – positively

exudes opulence and dominates the city’s skyline. Boasting

unparalleled facilities, each of the 273 guest rooms and

suites at this deluxe urban resort, features unobstructed

vistas across the crystalline waters via oversized windows.

Incorporating numerous unique design elements and filled

with countless original artworks of varying styles,

unsurprisingly the hotel has become something of a

national landmark and hospitality status symbol within the

country. Four Seasons also offers an array of culinary

options, including two restaurants by Michelin-starred

celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck, not least critically acclaimed

CUT, a sleek, modern American steakhouse serving the

widest and best cuts of meat available. Meanwhile Puck’s

Moroccan-inspired bar on the hotel’s 50 th floor, Blue Moon

Lounge, offers a rich space for guests to relax and enjoy

spectacular sunsets and the twinkling lights above the bay

until the early hours. (www.fourseasons.com/bahrain)

Hotel Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea & Spa, located on

Bahrain’s west coast and perched on the pristine beaches of

Zallaq overlooking the Arabian Gulf, is as worthwhile visiting

for the property’s sumptuous spa as it is for its superb Tapas

Restaurant & Bar, which is just one of the many food and

beverage outlets scattered around this sprawling 262-room


Business

meets

Pleasure

Perfectly placed to make the most of the emirate’s business districts,

Roda Al Bustan enjoys close proximity to key commercial locations

including Dubai World Trade Centre and Dubai International

Financial Centre – making it particularly popular with professional

travellers. Just a short drive away, visitors will find shopping malls,

Deira City Centre and Dubai Festival City.

IN ROOM

Smart and sophisticated, Roda Al Bustan is home to

279 rooms and suites all elegantly furnished and

designed with contemporary touches. Discover the 34

square-metre classic room and premium room with

large marble bathroom. For suite options, take your

pick from the 55 square-metre classic suite or the 76

square-metre premium suite, both with spacious living

rooms and access to the Roda Discovery Club.

GOOD EATS

Experience award-winning cuisine and

impeccable service in a variety of themed

restaurants from casual to fine-dining.

HIGH STEAKS

For special occasions and intimate

celebrations, look no further than Roda

Grill. Already a firm favourite with many

of the city’s carnivorous types, this slick

restaurant boasts a range of prime meat

cuts, with everything from sumptuous

sirloin and rib-eye to tender fillet on offer.

TASTE OF ARABIA

Those eager to sample some of the region’s

famed Middle Eastern fare should visit

Mawal Shisha Café.

KEEP IT CASUAL

Relish the relaxed atmosphere of the hotel’s

allday dining venue, Makan. Bright and

spacious, here guests can take their pick

from an impressive daily buffet spread, a

host of live cooking stations or simply

select dishes from the à la carte menu.

Casablanca Road, Al Garhoud,

P.O. box 30880, Dubai, U.A.E.

+971 4 282 0000

roda-hotels.com

ASIAN ACCENTS

Roda Al Bustan's selection of cuisine draws

from destinations both near and far. Sushi

and teppanyaki fans will love Hibachi.

Continue your journey across the east at

Bambooda. The Thai fusion restaurant

exudes plenty of charm and a menu that

champions Thailand’s vibrant spirit.

SHARAJAT-AL-HAYAT

resort, which skilfully blends French art de vivre with

traditional Bahraini styles. After an afternoon of sublime

pampering at the only thalassotherapy complex in the GCC,

which offers a vast range of seawater-based treatments,

adjourn to the tapas bar for sundowners, inimitable sea

views, delicate bites and some live entertainment. Sipping a

glass of Pinot here, perhaps accompanied by a little shisha

while watching the sun gently setting, is the perfect prelude

to a night out in the Bahraini capital.

(www.sofitel.com/bahrain)

In the Seef district of the Manama, the country’s grand

hospitality dame, Ritz-Carlton, is immensely popular with

Europeans, expats and holidaymakers, a good number of

whom can be seen every weekend relaxing within the

boundaries of its extensive grounds. In a country whose

natural coastline is regularly extended via massive land

reclamation projects, Manama’s Ritz-Carlton offers some of

the best private

beaches (albeit

artificial) in the

Bahraini capital,

complete with its own

marina. For those

looking to splash some

serious holiday cash,

the Ritz-Carlton's

three-bedroom villas

offer unsurpassed

beachfront

accommodation, each

with its own private

swimming pool, waited on 24/7 by a bevy of professional

butlers. If you can draw yourself away from the hotel’s

white sands, the Frida Kahlo inspired décor at the hotel’s

excellent Mexican restaurant, Cantina Kahlo, is as

memorable as its cuisine, whilst the blended three rum Tiki

Puka Puka cocktails at Trader Vic’s are somewhat moreish.

Late at night after a hearty meal, the hotel’s Burlington Club

is the perfect locale to lounge with a Cuban cigar and fine

French cognac. (www.ritzcarlton.com)

Dating back at least 5,000 years to the Dilmun civilisation,

the country’s forts are its most important excavated sites.

Hence, picking one of them is an ideal place to start a day of

sightseeing. Bahrain Fort, also known as Qal’at al-Bahrain

and a UNESCO World Heritage site, is located in the far

north of the main island, 20 minutes-drive from central

Manama. Built in the 16 th century by the Portuguese, during

History shows that pearl diving

was happening in Bahrain more

than five millennia ago. Today

more than 400mile² of oyster

beds still flourish in the country’s

warm and shallow waters

the 81-year period when Portugal occupied Bahrain from

1521 until 1602 (when it was pushed out by Persia), the site

is also believed to have been the central hub of the Dilmun

era and was first inhabited around 2300BC. Understandably

the area is much loved by archaeologists, since excavations

have revealed a great deal of information about times long

gone. (www.culture.gov.bh/en/)

Many of the country’s most important archaeological finds

are contained within the capital’s beautiful Bahrain National

Museum, which houses extensive collections ranging from

traditional handicrafts and cultural artefacts, to political

documents and early currency, all carefully arranged within

nine well-curated halls. The museum provides a truly

wonderful tour through Bahrain and its history and

traditions. Must-sees are the hundreds of years-old pearls

found at the Dilmun Civilization Historic Site, as well as the

Dilmun Seals. (www.culture.gov.bh/en/)

History shows that

pearl diving was

happening in Bahrain

more than five

millennia ago. Today

more than 400mile² of

oyster beds still flourish

in the country’s warm

and shallow waters.

Whilst Bahrain's pearl

industry may have

taken a tumble with

the emergence of

Japanese cultured pearls in the 1920s, locals still pearl fish

for fun. Offering a somewhat unusual aquatic experience,

visitors can also dive for pearls (equipped with the

appropriate scuba gear, of course) and are allowed to keep

whatever they find. (www.intothebluebh.com)

Bahrain has one of the largest necropolis in the world. The

A’ali Burial Mounds date back to the Dilmun (3200 BC-330

BC), the Umm an-Nar Culture and later eras, and was the

final resting place for people of all ages and tiers of society.

Recent studies have shown that the estimated 350,000

ancient grave mounds on the site are likely to have been

solely produced by the local population over a number of

thousands of years. While in A’ali, make time to participate

in a local village pottery workshop, all of which use

traditional mud kilns. After all, there’s nothing better than

making your own souvenir to take home! Back in Manama


central, EZ Art Pottery creative studio offers a drop-in

pottery making class in spacious and well-equipped

surroundings (www.ezartpottery.com). Meanwhile, to

witness some traditional Bahraini arts and crafts, visit the Al

Jasra Handicrafts Centre. A traditional house set in the midst

of beautiful lush gardens, here a number of artisans

showcase their work with textiles, woods and date palm

leaves, the latter used to weave baskets and other small

items. (www.btea.bh/aljasra-handcrafts)

A veritable testament to the power of nature,

Sharajat-al-Hayat (or Tree of Life) definitely warrants a visit,

especially to watch the sunset. Located in the middle of the

desert, somehow this Prosopis cineraria tree has survived

for more than 400 years in a brutally harsh climate with no

obvious source of water. Legend has it that cults once made

sacrifices and practiced other rituals around the tree, whilst

others say that it is the “tree of life” mentioned in the Bible.

For an artistic fix, Bahrain hosts many cultural events

throughout the year. These take place all around Manama at

different locations, including open-air stages, the National


Theatre, the Cultural Hall and at a variety of historic,

traditional buildings which have been lovingly restored

during recent years. The Spring of Culture, The Summer

Festival and the Music Festival are just a few worthwhile

annual events organised by the Authority of Culture and

Antiquities. (www.culture.gov.bh/en)

For high-end luxury shopping at its best, head to Moda Mall

at Bahrain World Trade Centre, where countless

international designers have stores, including Armani, Gucci

and Hermès (www.modabahrain.com). Other international

and local designer wear can be found in malls such as City

Center, Seef Mall and AlAli Mall. If you are looking to support

local Bahraini designers, Noon by Noor

(www.noonbynoor.com) and Azza Fine Jewellery

(www.azzaalhujairi.com) are two of the most talented. The

bustling alleyways of Manama Souq, in the warren of

streets behind Bab Al Bahrain, is the place to go for nuts,

spices, shisha bottles and a plethora of other Bahraini

essentials. Don’t miss the Gold Souq, Kingdom of Perfumes

and the Spice Souq.

One of the country’s landmarks is Al-Fateh Mosque, one of

the largest in the world and open to non-Muslims. Built in

the 1990s, the huge domed building also hosts the National

Library. Named after the founder of Bahrain, the mosque is

open from 9am to 4pm and tours are conducted in a

number of languages including English.

Finally, to the Kingdom’s vibrant and hugely popular

nightlife scene. Manama’s numerous clubs and bars, with

their diverse and eclectic mix of DJs and music genres, allow

visitors the opportunity to genuinely let their hair down.

Ibrida at Ramee Grand Hotel in Seef district

(www.facebook.com/Ibridabahrain/) and KLUB360º at Elite

Crystal Hotel are two nightclubs where the city’s who’s who

often hang out (www.klub360.com). But if it’s just a just a

cocktail and dinner you’re after, Txoko sky lounge on the

36 th floor of Domain Hotel is popular and always busy with a

lively crowd (www.thedomainhotels.com).

There may be a mere 295 square miles of Bahrain in total,

but the country and its energetic hub pack a lot of vacation

punches. With world-class sporting events, festivals and

cultural happenings, to historical sites, entertainment

venues and Michelin-starred restaurants - not to mention

a world of shopping - Manama offers something for

literally everyone in one outgoing, pint-sized short

break-friendly capital.


DÍA DE LOS MUERTOS

Ghoulish revellers, young and old, creep through the streets of the

Mexican city of Oaxaca during the ancient ritualistic Day of the Dead parade

2 November 2017 www.festivaldevidaymuerte.com

TA

TE

& S SIP

REVIEW

MESA

FRANCA

BOGOTÁ

Food

Atmosphere



The vibrant capital of the land of magical realism,

Bogotá stands tall and proud at 2,600 metres above

sea level, that much closer to the stars than its many

of its South American culinary contemporaries. Lush green

mountains surround the city, and the bustling streets of the

capital are filled with greenery.

The fertile lands of this vast country offer its talented chefs

some of the freshest and most tasty produce on the planet.

And this is without talking about the country’s vast variety of

fruits, many of which are indigenous to Colombia, the fourth

most biodiverse country in the world. In short, Colombia’s

pantry is immense, providing an incredible array of ingredients.

In Colombia chefs have a bigger role to play in delivering

dishes from farm to table. In this country, meeting the

farmers and hand-picking or growing their own produce are

integral practices to the culture of the land. Smoking one's

own paprika from scratch, spending hours to make sauces,

and, in some cases, even hunting their own meats,

Colombian cooks take things further than usual, and each

bite of their culinary labours is a tasty testament to this.

For a long period of time, the Bogotá restaurant scene was less

than elaborate, populated mainly by classic establishments

that Colombians would visit only on special occasions. The

industry belonged to just a few. But now it is constantly

evolving, thanks to young and passionate cooking-driven

minds, who hustle to get the freshest, most remote and

natural ingredients into their creations and onto their tables.

What’s more, they ensure that not only the food tastes good

but that the details are also in place. The fortunate diners who

live in Bogotá are lucky enough to experience the foodie

scene’s rapid and fascinating evolution. And it is still evolving.

Today, Bogotá is an adult gastronomic playground, aplomb

with a wide variety of restaurants spanning every price point

and taste sensation. From the downright industrial to the

elegant and refined, quaint bistros to majestic restaurants,

and pavement cafés to fine dining big hitters, you will find

every type of eatery on the streets of the Colombian capital.

The city has become a world class destination to experience

fantastic food, be immersed in unique dining décor and

enjoy a variety of distinctly different ambiances. All are

windows into the history, agriculture and talent of the

Colombian people, and when it comes to their cuisine,

Colombians don’t rest until they get it right: from delicious

corn-based arepas which are a staple of the country, to

traditional homemade ajiaco (chicken and potato soup)

which is especially popular in Bogotá, and on to much more

elaborate contemporary dishes where the fresh produce is

almost always the star.

Hip and trendy restaurants, which highlight what it means

to be Colombian, are popping up more frequently as

eating-out and tourism increases. However, since Bogotá is


a city of contrasts, residents also dine often in classic

restaurants that left their culinary mark on the city long ago.

Some notable establishments have been catering to the

Colombian elite for many years with a more traditional

service style and lower profile than the newest and most

talked-about of the city’s places to dine. Such variety of

restaurant trends afford locals and visitors alike rich pickings

when it comes to choosing where to eat and the type of fare.

Many of Colombia’s most well-known chefs spent a lot of

time abroad, learning their craft and perfecting the cooking

techniques they employ today in the kitchens of their

restaurants in Bogotá. Their preparations are complex. They

foster a mentality of beginning the creation of a dish from

scratch and developing it to perfection. And their natural

passion for cooking is evident. As a result, Colombian

contemporary cuisine is on the rise, and nowhere is this

homegrown talent more evident than Mesa Franca, an

intimate restaurant that is taking the country’s food status

to new gastronomic heights.

Exciting, vibrant and delicious: these three words describe

both modern Colombian cuisine and Mesa Franca. Bogotá is

a city with good taste and fine food, and now, more than

ever, young chefs are identifying what contemporary

Colombian means for their pride and for the world to enjoy.

Since opening its doors at the end of last year in

up-and-coming Chapinero neighbourhood, understated

Mesa Franca has rapidly become one of the best

restaurants in the country.

The traditional but restored corner house that is home to

Mesa Franca, commemorates the past through its exposed

foundations, and acknowledges the present via

semi-industrial fittings and steel chairs. The décor is

essentially minimalist, warm and comfortable. Boasting four

intimate spaces, Mesa Franca has a colourful terrace for

warmer days as well as an unpretentious inside dining room

and inviting bar adjacent to an open kitchen. The high-top

table directly in front of the bar is perfect for a night out

with friends who also happen to be foodies. The second

floor offers larger spaces for bigger groups, again kitted out

in a quasi-industrial yet appealing and comfortable style.

Three young personalities make Mesa Franca happen in

beautiful culinary unison, and are making names for

themselves as restaurateurs to be reckoned with:

Sommelier Maria Paula Amador in the dining room,

commands her team with love, leadership and tact, as she

strolls through the tables taking orders, chatting with

guests, talking about her changing wine list, setting the

stage for exquisite meals and presenting dishes that smell

like food heaven.

Tom Hydzik – originally from Poland – is the creator of a

range of delectable hand-crafted cocktails, that combine

local fruits and slightly bolder aperitifs. Hydzik’s

accomplished bar menu might very well be the envy of

some of the world’s most established mixologists. Divided

into sections - Spritz’d, Sours, Raspados, High Balls and

Aromáticos – I sample a pink pisco with fresh pineapple,

spearmint, pisco, aperol and honey. The smooth yet fruity

and dry taste left my palate positively animated.

Iván Cadena – the star of the kitchen – tends to stand at the

other side of the dining room, across from the bar. Looking

at his guests from his cooking domain, his contagious

excitement always on show, it’s satisfying to see how his

young assistants follow him with rigor. Cadena is a young

and passionate chef, rich in both wisdom and experience.

Having started his career at Astrid y Gaston, Cadena was

a sous-chef for Virgilio Martinez, widely recognised as the

best Latin America chef today. Cadena rose rapidly through

the ranks. Mesa Franca is the first restaurant where he has

accomplished an honest menu that showcases local

products cooked with exquisite techniques to great success.

Cadena plays with herbs, spices, textures and the

presentation of his dishes like no other chef in the country,

achieving finesse and subtlety via unique combinations of

flavours which explode in the mouth. On the Thursday

evening we visited Mesa Franca, it was ‘Salsa vinilo y

cochinillo’, with suckling pig the culinary star, to a backdrop

of DJ Pantera playing classic salsa using vinyl and turntables.

My starter of romaine lettuce hearts with feta cheese,

caramelized nuts and a subtle basil-lemon vinaigrette was

supremely appetising. The moreish suckling pork dumplings

are not to be missed on a Thursday – vegetables and pork

MESA FRANCA

Food:

Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Iván Cadena

Mixologist: Tom Hydzik

General manager: Maria Paula Amador

Address: Carrera 6 # 55-09. Chapinero Alto. Bogotá, Colombia

Telephone: +571 805 1787

Email:

mesafrancag@gmail.com

Instagram: mesafranca

Cuisine:

Contemporary Colombian

Opening hours: Monday - Wednesday 12:00-15:30 + 18:30-22:00

Thursday & Friday 12:00-15:30 + 18:30-23:00

Saturday 12:00-23:00

Lunch price: Set menu of the day COP25,000 includes a

non-alcoholic drink

Dinner price: Crunchy lettuce (COP21,000), pork belly (COP29,000),

brioche bread & chocolate pudding (COP13,000)

Ideal dinner: Daily specials COP25,000 - COP55,000

Reservations: Essential

Wheelchair access: Yes but limited

Children: Highchairs available. No kids menu

Credit cards: Amex, MasterCard & Visa

Parking:

On street. No valet. Parking lot 4 blocks away

Reviewed by Katherine Araujo for dinner on 24 th August 2017

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about

the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

flavours playing with the seared texture of the dough and

delicate Asian seasonings. And to say that the main course

suckling pig was succulent is an understatement.

Mesa Franca was conceived out of Amador, Hydzik and

Cadena’s love for great restaurants, where the relationships

between a restauranteur and its suppliers are close, and

where honest Colombian flavours are elevated by creative

and ingenious recipes. In Mesa Franca, these three

restaurateurs have successfully created a cutting-edge

culinary sanctuary, where the finest produce, gastronomic

excellence, friendly service, fine wines and delectable

cocktails meet together and sing in perfect harmony. This

restaurant will without doubt continue to be the talk of the

Bogotá food scene for many years to come, and is a

destination venue for any serious food lover visiting the

Colombian capital and wanting to sample the best cuisine

the city has to offer.


TA

TE

& S SIP

INTERVIEW

RICHARD

SANDOVAL


RENOWNED CHEF AND

RESTAURATEUR RICHARD SANDOVAL

HAS MASTERED MODERN AND

COASTAL MEXICAN, LATIN-ASIAN,

PERUVIAN AND PAN-LATIN CUISINES,

AND IS THE HANDS-ON OPERATOR OF

MORE THAN FORTY RESTAURANTS

AROUND THE WORLD, STRETCHING

OUT FROM HIS DENVER BASE ACROSS

THE UNITES STATES TO SERBIA, JAPAN,

QATAR AND CHINA. THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER CHATS WITH THE LATIN

GASTRONOMIC POWERHOUSE ON THE

EVE OF OPENING NEW OUTLETS IN

ABU DHABI AND ASPEN

WAS THERE MUCH COOKING IN THE SANDOVAL

HOUSEHOLD WHEN YOU WERE YOUNG?

Yes, I spent a great deal of time with my grandmother (the

matriarch of the family) and pretty much everything

revolved around family and food. I remember very large

family gatherings where my grandmother would sit at the

head of the table surrounded by about 15 family members.

Every meal was family-style and all the plates would be

passed around the table. Dishes included stuffed chayote

squash, black bean soup, chicken with mole poblano, pork

loin stuffed with almonds and nuts in a prune mole sauce,

chicken mole tamales, roasted poblano soup and pork in

pumpkin sauce.

FRENCH RESTAURANTS, “SAVANN” AND “SAVANN EST”.

WHY THIS DEPARTURE FROM YOUR GASTRONOMIC

HERITAGE?

Upon graduation, Savann and Savann Est were my segway

into the New York culinary arena, but I always knew that

Mexican cuisine was my true calling.

WHAT ADVICE DID YOUR RESTAURATEUR FATHER GIVE

WHEN YOU OPENED YOUR FIRST OUTLET?

My father always advised me to have a financial plan in

place and understand that if I was going to be successful, I

had to treat my restaurants as a business and not a source

to feed my ego.

WHAT VALUES DID GROWING-UP IN A FOODIE FAMILY IN

MEXICO CITY IMPART ON YOU AS AN ADULT?

The most important was respect for ingredients which I

still believe in today.

AS A KID WHAT DID YOU

WANT TO BE?

I grew up playing tennis in

high school and university. I

then had the privilege of

traveling around the world

to play my sport – which

would later play a huge role

in my culinary career. I really

wanted to be a professional

player since tennis was my

first love, but once I started

cooking, I realised that there

were some similarities. I would get the same adrenaline

rush when I was cooking on a busy Friday night as I did

playing a tennis match, and I really enjoyed that.

AT WHAT STAGE DID YOU REALIZE THAT COOKING AND

RUNNING RESTAURANTS WERE TO BE YOUR VOCATION?

Ultimately, around the age of 20, I had to make a choice to

either teach tennis or find a new career, and this is when I

enrolled at The Culinary Institute of America to pursue my

love of food.

DO YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST MEAL OR DISH THAT

TRULY AWAKENED YOUR PALETTE?

The first time I tasted mole made me realise how flavour

could really impact a dish.

YOUR FIRST OPENINGS WERE BOTH CONTEMPORARY

It’s very important to enter

markets where I feel people

will appreciate my work but

most importantly that we

bring some added value to

the communities where we

choose to set up shop

YOUR FLAGSHIP MODERN MEXICAN RESTAURANT

“MAYA” IN NEW YORK OPENED IN 1997. FOR THE PAST

TWO DECADES IT HAS BEEN CONSISTENTLY RANKED AS

ONE OF THE BEST MEXICAN

EATERIES IN THE BIG

APPLE, WITH NEW YORK

MAGAZINE LAUDING IT AS

“THE BEST MEXICAN FOR

MILES.” WHY DO YOU

THINK THIS IS THE CASE

AND WHAT IS THE SECRET

OF MAYA’S SUCCESS?

When Maya opened in 1997,

Mexican cuisine in New York

was very stagnant and not

evolving. Mexican food was

often confused with

“Tex-Mex” and people were

not really tasting authentic Mexican flavours the way they

should. Maya was the first to really give New Yorkers the

opportunity to taste the great, bold and authentic flavours

of my homeland. I think Maya’s success can primarily be

attributed to the fact that, for the last 20 years, the

restaurant’s culinary program has consistently evolved

and given the people of New York multiple reasons to keep

coming back.

YOU ARE KNOWN NOT TO EXPAND JUST TO ADD

ANOTHER LOCATION TO HANG UP YOUR CHEF’S TOQUE.

WHAT ARE THE CRITERIA FOR OPENING A NEW

RESTAURANT?

I always like to be challenged and also challenge people.

It’s very important to enter markets where I feel people will

appreciate my work but most importantly that we bring

some added value to the communities where we choose to


set up shop. For example, when I chose to open a

restaurant in Dubai 10 years ago, Latin cuisine and culture

was virtually non-existent there. However, I believed that

the leaders of U.A.E. were very forward-thinking and

creating something new there could be very successful.

Today, Latin cuisine is probably the fastest growing

cuisine in U.A.E.!

THE CELEBRITY CHEF HAS BECOME A SOMETHING OF A

TREND IN THE GASTRONOMIC WORLD OF TODAY. DO

YOU THINK IT HAS IT GONE TOO FAR?

Yes, I do, and I feel that the celebrity chef concept is very

much a double-edged sword. On the one hand, multiple

food channels and cooking-orientated shows have really

made the food industry boom, and have given many

people the opportunity to learn about and see first-hand

all the different cuisines around the world. On the other

hand, I feel it is having a negative impact as future

generations may enter our industry with the intent of

becoming celebrities rather than a passion for food.

WHAT, FOR YOU, ARE THE DOWNSIDES TO THE MEDIA

FRENZY SURROUNDING CHEF AND COOKING

COMPETITIONS?

I feel there is both an upside and a downside. The upside is all

the exposure our industry receives, which is, being honest,

very good for business. The downside is that eventually, when

the primary reason for all the competitions is financial gain

and ratings, they become diluted and manipulated and stop

being educational and motivational.

IT’S WIDELY KNOWN THAT YOU ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT

TRAINING THE CHEFS OF THE FUTURE AND YOU’RE ON

THE BOARD OF TRUSTEES AT THE CULINARY INSTITUTE

OF AMERICA. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE AN

EMERGING CHEF TODAY?

My recommendation to emerging chefs is to never forget

why you entered the industry in the first place. In the

whirlwind of our passion for food, some chefs seem to

forget that our industry is all about creating unforgettable

gastronomic experiences.

I have always said the difference between being a

good chef and great chef is paying attention to all

the small details that make a dish great


www.bestrestaurantsincolombia.com

Best Restaurants Colombia es la única guía de restaurantes en ofrecer una selección rigurosa

de las mejores mesas en Colombia. Una compilación de 150 restaurantes entre los mejores,

también es la guía más completa: 2 guías impresas, una página web, aplicación de iPhone

y nuestro blog de Instagram lo mantendrá actualizado acerca de los chefs más talentosos

en Colombia.

Best Restaurants Colombia is the only restaurant guide to offer a rigorous selection of the

finest tables in Colombia. A compilation of 150 restaurants, among the best, it is also the

most complete: the 2 printed guides, the website, the iPhone application and our blog on

Instagram provide the latest news on the most talented chefs of Colombia.

El sitio web

Descarga nuestra

aplicación

¡Síganos!

I have always learned a lot

more from my mistakes

than from my successes

144 162 The e Cultured ured Traveller er Oct-Nov v 2017

AFTER MORE THAN TWO DECADES IN THE KITCHEN,

INCLUDING MULTIPLE ACCOLADES AND COUNTLESS

JUDGING ROLES IN CULINARY COMPETITIONS, WHAT,

FOR YOU, ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT QUALITIES THAT

MAKE A GREAT CHEF STANDOUT FROM A GOOD CHEF?

I have always said the difference between being a good

chef and great chef is paying attention to all the small

details that make a dish great - from the selection of the

ingredients and ensuring that everything is correctly

seasoned, through to using the right cooking technique,

you are what you inspect not what you expect!

WHEN IS THE RIGHT TIME FOR AN EMERGING CHEF TO

STRIKE OUT ON HIS OR HER OWN AND OPEN THEIR OWN

RESTAURANT?

Once a chef has opened a few restaurants using someone

else's money, mistakes are very costly. I have always learned

a lot more from my mistakes than from my successes. The

more restaurants a chef has opened, the better chance an

emerging chef will have at succeeding in his or her own

restaurant. After all, life is all about experience.

OVERSEEING MORE THAN 40 RESTAURANTS ON MULTIPLE

CONTINENTS IS NO MEAN FEAT, AND WE KNOW THAT

YOU’RE A VERY HANDS-ON OPERATOR. HAVE YOU EVER

HAD TO DIG DEEP TO OVERCOME ADVERSITY? PLEASE

SHARE ANY WORDS OF WISDOM REGARDING

PERSEVERANCE AND SUSTAINING LONGEVITY IN THE

NOTORIOUSLY TOUGH CULINARY WORLD.

Yes, on many levels I've had to dig deep. Any business

owner knows that doing business has its challenges, and

there are peaks and valleys, but perseverance usually sees

you through. Always give your best no matter what the

circumstances are. Life rewards effort and honesty. The

key to sustainability is consistency and surrounding

yourself with good people.

WHAT CHALLENGES DOES OPENING A RESTAURANT IN A

COUNTRY SUCH AS QATAR OR UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

POSE FOR A CHEF SERVING MEXICAN, LATIN AND

PERUVIAN CUISINE?

When opening in Doha and Dubai, it was very difficult to

find the ingredients we needed. We overcame this by

researching and locating similar ingredients in

neighbouring countries, such as India where we sourced

chilies. But the biggest challenge was introducing a

cuisine and flavours that were unfamiliar to these

countries, which we overcame by over training our staff

and making sure they could engage guests and really

make their experience special. After experiencing

something new and special, we hoped that diners would

go out of their way to speak to their friends and family

about their new culinary experiences in our restaurants

and this would have the domino effect. Eventually,

everyone in Qatar and U.A.E. was talking about Latin

cuisine and it started booming in both countries.

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT ONE CREATIVE CULINARY

COLLABORATION YOU ARE HUGELY PASSIONATE ABOUT?

Zengo, my Latin-Asian restaurant, was a collaboration

with an Asian chef. Zengo means “give and take” in

Japanese. I hired an Asian chef to collaborate with me on

the creation of the menu. I would create a Latin dish and

give it to my Asian chef to put his cultural spin on it, and

vice versa. This was a really great collaboration.

HAS MEXICAN COOKING

EVOLVED OVER THE

YEARS?

Yes, absolutely, and for sure

Mexican cooking will

continue to evolve. You need

only look at tacos, for

example. Before you would

mostly find only grilled

chicken, grilled steak and

ground beef, with shredded

lettuce and grated cheese.

But today you can find all

manner of tacos on the

menus, including carnitas,

chicken tinga and pork al pastor. The latter really is an

original fusion food – a cross between Middle Eastern

shawarma and the guajillo-rubbed grilled pork served by

Mexican street vendors.

WHEN YOU’RE HAVING A DAY OFF, WHAT DO YOU LIKE

TO COOK AT HOME FOR FRIENDS AND FAMILY?

I love to grill good ingredients, with oil, herbs and fresh

salsas, at home for my children.

DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE COMFORT FOOD THAT YOU

PREPARE FOR YOURSELF ALONE?

Yes, I love a truly great burger every once in a while, and

tacos.

APART FROM YOU OWN RESTAURANTS, WHERE ARE

YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT OUT?

Any business owner

knows that doing business

has its challenges, and

there are peaks and

valleys, but perseverance

usually sees you through

Nobuyuki Matsuhisa was the first chef to successfully

combine Latin and Japanese cuisines and I always enjoy

visiting his Malibu outpost

(www.noburestaurants.com/malibu/). At Máximo Bistrot

in Mexico City, chef Eduardo Garcia has a unique talent for

creating modern French dishes with strong Mexican

influences which are bold yet unpretentious

(www.maximobistrot.com.mx).

In New York I love the simple flavours at Momofuko which

remind me of Asian markets (www.momofuku.com).

IF YOU WERE TO WRITE AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO MEXICO

WHAT THREE PLACES WOULD YOU INCLUDE?

The beautiful low-key beaches of Tulum. I love the

small-town feeling of Todos Santos in Baja California Sur,

especially its cobblestoned streets lined with tiny artisan

shops and the refurbished haciendas in the old part of

town. The setting of

ten-acre Flora Farm, in the

foothills of the Sierra de la

Laguna Mountains in Los

Cabos, is amazing and

unmissable if you’re

travelling in the area

(www.flora-farms.com).

WHERE IN THE WORLD DO

YOU MOST LIKE TO

UNWIND AND RELAX?

The hospitality of the entire

team at Four Seasons in

Punta Mita is amazing. The

whole property is very special, from the landscaping to the

ocean, and the resort itself transports you to place where

you can truly unwind. The white-sand beaches and

turquoise waters are gorgeous and the sunsets are

spectacular. I always leave feeling rejuvenated.

(www.fourseasons.com/puntamita/).

WHAT NEW RESTAURANT OPENINGS DO YOU HAVE

COMING UP?

Toro Toro in Abu Dhabi – a Latin American steak house

serving ceviche nikkei, pulled pork, arepas and succulent

steaks. And Toro Gastrobar at The Viceroy resort at the

base of one of Colorado's top ski mountains in Snowmass

Village near Aspen. This will be a farm-to-table concept,

essentially Latin American cooking without borders.

www.richardsandoval.com


TA

TE

& S SIP

RECIPE

CEVICHE DE

HUACHINANGO

RECIPE COURTESY OF

RICHARD SANDOVAL

WWW.RICHARDSANDOVAL.COM

INGREDIENTS

90g Pink snapper, diced

150g Leche de tigre (recipe)

½ red onion; minced

50mlOrange juice

¼ avocado, diced

20ml olive oil

1 tsp coriander leaves, chopped

Roasted sweet potato for garnish

FOR THE LECHE DE TIGRE OR

TIGER MILK

300ml Fish stock

700ml lemon Brazilian green juice

10 cloves garlic, or more as desired

1-inch piece Ginger

2 stalks celery (about 80g)

200g White fish

250g White onion

1 tsp, Coriander leaf

4 tsp salt

10 ice cubes

1 tsp Habanero chili (deseed and pith

removed)

METHOD

• First make the leche de tigre. Mix all

the ingredients and blend until

smooth. Strain and keep in the

fridge so it is very cold.

• Prepare the rest of the ingredients

and keep separate until you are

ready the serve.

• When ready to eat, mix the

ingredients otherwise the lime will

“overcook” the fish.

• Season the fish with the salt and mix

well. Add the rest of the ingredients

and mix. Finally add the leche de

tigre and orange juice and mix one

last time.

• Check the seasoning and serve

straight away.



TA

TE

& S SIP

NEWCOMER

SANTA

MONICA

BREAKFAST

CLUB

DOHA

ASHLEE STARRATT FEASTS ON

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIAN CUISINE

IN THE HEART OF THE MIDDLE EAST

AT DOHA’S COLOURFUL NEW

CULINARY TOUR-DE-FORCE

There’s something about colour that whets the

appetite. Simply put, life is just a whole lot more

inviting in Technicolour – from the spaces and places

we frequent, to our personal style and, most definitely,

the food on our plate. In a world of

Instagram-obsessed foodies, it better be bold, it better

be big and it had better be bright.

Grand Hyatt Doha has been home to one such

sun-kissed spot since February 2017 – Santa Monica

Breakfast Club, or SMBC for short. What began as a

pop-up restaurant seven months ago saw the property’s

former all-day dining outlet, The Grill, transformed – and

has proven so popular Hyatt management ensconced it

as permanent fixture as of July.

Having undergone a complete face-lift, SMBC is

virtually unrecognizable from its predecessor, quickly

leaving its mark as one of Qatar’s newest and most

original F&B concepts. A bright splash of California

sunshine, its ethos is fresh, wholesome and healthy –

with an ample dose of the sinfully sweet thrown in to

boot. So-Cal comfort food, with a Middle Eastern twist

that tantalizes and teases.

Walk in and what strikes you like a match is the

ambiance. Awash with electric pop-art and vibrant

primary colours, the décor instantly lifts your mood and

whets your appetite for what’s to come. It’s hard to be a

Debbie Downer when you’ve suddenly found yourself in

the middle of a South Beach rainbow. This is in large

part due to the playful graffiti-style wall murals painted

by Achilleas Michaelides aka “Paparazzi”, a

Cyprus-based painter, graffiti writer, muralist and street

artist, who spent almost a month in Doha working solo

at SMBC (paparazziartstudio.com).

The Sunshine State citruses, bubble-gum pinks and

robin’s-egg blues infuse the space with soul. Rough,

rustic tones of wood abound throughout, giving it that

beach-y boardwalk feel, while living walls of plant and

foliage dress the interior in accents of greenery that

lend freshness to the interior.

Divided into several unique concept areas, SMBC’s

off-beat layout makes for a new experience each time

you visit – depending on where you sit. Tiffany-blue

sofas with cherry-pink pillows offer a leisurely,

afternoon-at-your-friend’s-house feel. Grab a book or

glossy mag from their library corner, sip your fresh

lemonade (or something a bit stronger) and let the

world slip away for an hour or two. Or, grab your mates

and head to the games corner for a cheeky round of

darts or foosball.

There’s also a delightfully retro DJ booth where DJs spin

a breezy soundtrack every Friday brunch – think Café

del Mar meets Cali cool – as you sip your Sauv Blanc or

indulge in one of their mountainous milkshakes topped

with such shameless indulgences as salted caramel

cubes, peanut butter mini-waffles, and the rest of the

cookie jar!

It’s early on a Thursday evening when we arrive for

dinner – and while ‘breakfast’ may literally be what

SMBC has staked their name on, don’t let it fool you. It’s

only one of their many top-drawer standouts. Having

recently revamped their menu with some

mouth-watering new offerings, it’s easy to find

something fresh, funky and delish to tempt your fancy,

We’re seated at corner table by the window and as we

wind our way through the space we notice that they’ve

further upped the colour quotient by re-upholstering

the dining chairs in Skittle shades of rainbow hues. As

we settle in and peruse the menu we can’t help but

notice some fabulously lush new additions that catch

our fancy. Topping our list of SMBC’s So-Cal must-tries

is a selection off the ‘Dropped Egg’ section of the menu

– think inspirational, flavoursome, and piquant takes on

your traditional Eggs Benny.

Straight off the bat our eye falls on the new Santa

Mexicana. A cross between an Eggs Benny and a fry-up,

it’s a piping hot skillet heaped with fried free-range

eggs, home-baked corn cakes, spicy beef chorizo, salsa

verde, gooey melted cheddar, smashed avocado, and a

cooling cumin yogurt. We muddle over its depths and

reflect on how comfort food of this calibre will never,

ever, go out of style.

To balance this calorie overload, we glance over their

new range of healthful salads, opting for a lush

toss-up of their Californication bowl – with bitter, fresh

rocket leaves off-set by creamy avocado, funky blue

cheese, toasted nuts, and a sweetly inspired cranberry

dressing. Total guilt-free indulgence – and you bet we

cleaned the plate.


A SoHo Institution

Since 1927

Bar, Restaurant

& Club Privé

L’ ESCARGOT

Depuis 1927

•

48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF

Telephone 020 7439 7474 www.lescargot.co.uk

Monday to Saturday:

All day until 1am

Also new to SMBC are additions to its all-day breakfast

‘Top O’ The Mornin’ offerings. We eye up dim sum bao

buns stuffed with teriyaki-glazed chicken, roasted

peanuts and red chili, but just can’t pass up a portion of

the restaurant’s best-seller – pan con chicharron.

Jammed between two thick slices whole-grain bread is

melt-in-your-mouth, slow-roasted beef brisket with a

smoked chili salsa, jicama slaw and a spicy Sriracha

mayo. Crowning this culinary heavy-hitter is a side of

fluffy, golden-crisp sweet potato fries for a match made

in Mexicali heaven.

While I work my way through this pinnacle of a plate, my

dining companion can’t resist a round of Australian lamb

chops from the ‘Hot Off The Grill’ section. Also, newly

revamped – SMBC faithful can expect to be pleasantly

surprised with its upgrade. The sweet soy-glazed

chicken with Asian slaw and sesame seeds had us

hemming and hawing with indecision, while their

Mediterranean sea-bass with pine-nuts and a ‘virgin’

sauce had us experiencing some serious foodie FOMO.

As we make our way through an ice-cold bottle of

citrusy-crisp Sauv Blanc, we bask in the atmosphere,

feeling relaxed, full, and content. No trip to SMBC is

complete without an indulgence off their dessert menu,

and we can’t leave before sampling at least one (or

two!) of its wares. My companion goes for the creamy

comfort of their fresh yogurt and honeycomb milkshake

topped with whipped cream, sprinkles, and cubes of

salted caramel. It’s a frothy revelation – the pungency

of the yogurt bringing a startlingly tangy balance to the

sweetness of the caramel.

I can’t turn down their top-dog off the dessert list – the

cookie heaven – and take our waitresses

recommendation. Usually I can take or leave a cookie –

but when it comes ooey-gooey, crunchy, and crumbly

in a cast-iron skillet topped with caramel drizzle,

home-churned vanilla ice cream and slivered almonds, I

simply have to admit that my choices are no longer in

my hands. Hands down, it’s the most sumptuously

sinful creation to pass my lips.

Hats off to Santa Monica Breakfast Club, a newcomer to

Doha’s ever-evolving dining scene that’s anything but a

flash in the pan. Visit for the colourful ambiance and

luscious menu, and stay for the So-Cal cool and

laidback Californian vibe.

www.santamonicabreakfast.club


GLORIA

ESTEFAN


music &

NIGHT

LIFE

INTERNATIONAL POP ICON GLORIA ESTEFAN

HAS ACHIEVED PRETTY MUCH EVERYTHING IN

THE MUSIC WORLD, NOT LEAST WINNING

SEVEN GRAMMYS, SELLING MORE THAN 100

MILLION ALBUMS AND PERFORMING TO

SOLD OUT STADIUMS AROUND THE GLOBE.

A HIT BROADWAY MUSICAL CELEBRATING

HER LIFE HAS JUST BEGUN TOURING THE

STATES, AND GLORIA AND EMILIO ESTEFAN

CELEBATED THEIR 39TH WEDDING

ANNIVERSARY LAST MONTH.

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHATS WITH THE

DR BEAT AND CONGA SINGER ABOUT

MAKING IT BIG WITH MIAMI SOUND

MACHINE, TOUGH EXPERIENCES GROWING

UP IN AN IMMIGRANT FAMILY, HER

LIFE-CHANGING ACCIDENT, AND HOW IT

FEELS TO WATCH HER PERSONAL LOVE

STORY PLAY OUT ON STAGE.

Your family were amongst the first wave of Cuban

immigrants fleeing the regime of Fidel Castro to arrive

in Miami. What do you remember about this period of

your life?

I was very young when we came to the United States. My

Dad was a police officer for the Cuban Government, so he

knew the changes that were coming. He took the ferry to

Key West, came to Miami and found us a place to live.

At first we lived with his sister, then we found a place of our

own, but then he took off for the Bay of Pigs invasion. My

Mom knew nothing about it. He left a note, simply saying

she was going to be receiving a cheque from the US

Government once a month – I think it was for about USD150

– and we had no idea where he was. We subsequently

found out he was part of the Bay of Pigs invasion on his

27th birthday. I was about two then. We lived in an

apartment near the Orange Bowl, close to all of my Mom’s

friends and their young children. They were a support

system for each other, as all of the men had gone off to the

invasion. It was kind of like living in a commune: we would

go together to get groceries and do laundry, and one car

was bought for USD50 that all the women shared. We went

through a hurricane together, where all of the women were

holed up in our apartment, so we would all be together in

case something happened. So, very early on, I learned a lot

about camaraderie and the strength of women.

When my Dad was in jail I heard it from everyone. He was

a political prisoner in Cuba. My Mom tried to tell me he was

on a farm. I didn’t want to tell her that I knew the truth,

because I thought she believed he was on a farm, so

essentially both of us helped each other believe in a more

palatable story.

After fighting in the Bay of Pigs invasion and later

serving in the US Army in Vietnam, your father

developed MS and required round-the-clock care which

you helped provide. How did you cope during this time?

It was incredibly tough when my Dad got sick. He had been

noticing some health issues so my Mom asked him to go to

the hospital and get checked-out. He came out of the

hospital using a cane, after they did a spinal tap and

diagnosed him with MS, but he also had a lot of issues that

were not MS-related and was on the list for Agent Orange

poisoning. A lot of the guys who were stationed with him in

‘Nam had the same medical problems.

The day my Dad was diagnosed my Mom was very afraid


and disappeared. We found out that she had been walking

for five hours all over the city, lost. We all had to help my

Mom due to my Dad’s illness. When I turned 14, we were

able to afford a nurse for him until three in the afternoon.

When I came home from school, and from then on, I was

pretty much in charge of taking care of him and my younger

sister when she came back from school.

My Mom was working full-time, and then going to the

University of Miami to get her teaching credentials

revalidated, and she was worried that she wasn’t going to

be able to put my sister and me through school. She worked

so hard. I knew that it was my goal to help Mom take care

of everything that had to be taken care of.

What saved me through this time was music. I would lock

myself in my room and sing in order to cry. Tears would

stream down my face and I would get all my angst and

emotions out, because I wanted to be strong for my Mom. I

didn’t want her to see that I was hurting, that I was having a

tough time. So, music – other people’s music – really got me

through this period. I would learn the songs on my guitar,

tape them onto cassettes, figure out the chords and just

sing. That’s what got me through the toughest moments.

Music has always been incredibly healing in my life.

When was the first time you performed on stage?

I was about 10 years old and it was at my guitar teacher’s

recital. My Mom got me this special dress and these very

light blue tights, she did my hair up, and I was petrified! I sat

on that stage – thankfully it was in a chair – playing my

guitar, and people went crazy when I started singing, but I

was dying. It was incredibly difficult for me as it was the first

time I had sung for people other than my family. Believe it or

not I really don’t like being the centre of attention.

How long did it take you to become truly comfortable

regularly performing in front of thousands of people?

It took me a good 10 years, which is why I am so thankful

that I had that experience with Miami Latin Boys, [which

later became] Miami Sound Machine, playing gigs around

town. I started in 1975. It was in 1985 when everything

really exploded with Dr Beat and Conga. By that point, I had

performed in front of audiences as small as one person,

and as big as 100,000 people in stadiums in Latin America,

because we were very well known there before we crossed

over into the US market. I realised I was very shy and didn’t

like being the centre of attention, but I knew it was very

important for me to put my best foot forward.

When I realised that, if I just let people see how

I felt about music and relaxed, then everything

was going to go well. Eventually when I

stepped on a stage it became like stepping into

my home.

The strength of your partnership and 39

years of marriage to Emilio Estefan are

legendary in musical circles. How did you

first meet?

I first met Emilio in May of 1975 when I was

about to graduate high school. I went to an

all-girl Catholic high school and we had two

brother schools.

During senior year our parents would go out

and have spiritual weekends. One of my

friends, who played guitar and sang, wanted to

put a band together to play when the parents

came back from one of these events. So,

knowing me, as we had played at the church

and get-togethers at our mutual friends’

houses, he called me over and said he would

like me to be the singer. My friend’s father

worked at the same place as Emilio and

suggested he came along to give us some

pointers, as he had a band, the Miami Latin

Boys, and they had been playing all over town.

In fact, they had just played for the Mayor and

Eventually when I

stepped on a

stage it became

like stepping into

my home

excited to be getting tips from this guy. I

remember he brought his accordion along and

he was wearing vee-rry short shorts, so when

he played, it looked like he was naked, because

the accordion covered up his shorts. I was

enthralled. I thought he was a lot older than he

was because he looked like a very mature dude.

I was 17 at the time, Emilio was 21.

Anyway, he gave us some pointers and left;

we played the gig and everybody went their

separate ways. But, that summer, my Mom

dragged me to a wedding of the daughter of

one of my Dad’s army buddies, and when we

walked into the reception, I saw this band

playing and the lead guy was playing Do the

Hustle on the accordion. Everyone was having a


blast and he looked like he was in absolute heaven, playing

with his band. And then I realised, ‘Wait a minute, that’s that

guy I met a while back’. He asked me to sit in with the band

and I sang a couple of old Cuban standards that we both

knew. At the end of the night, he asked me if I would like to

join his band, because they didn’t have a singer. I told them

I couldn’t because I was starting school in September and I

already had two jobs – a full-time one and a part-time one

– and I knew my Mom wasn’t going to like the idea. But,

then, two weeks later, he tracked down my number from

the people at the party and called my house, saying, “Look,

we just play on weekends, it’s not going to interfere, I would

really love you to come to a rehearsal.” So I went with my

Mom, Grandma and sister, and, after it was over, he told me

he wanted me to join. My Grandma, who was always my

staunchest supporter and fan, said: “You need to share your

voice with the world because, unless you do so, you’re not

going to be happy.” And that’s when I met Emilio.

Your unique blend of dance, salsa and pop not only took

the Latin community by storm but also took the world by

storm. Did this surprise you and how did you handle the

intense attention?

Emilio and I were not surprised at all by the fact that our

music would work in the United States and all over the

world, because we had the best focus groups ever, which

were the gigs we were playing in Miami. Miami is an

incredibly international community and it’s very mixed

culturally. The reason we became very successful in Miami

as a gig band is because we could play Latin music, we

could play pop music, and then, when we started

interjecting our originals, they were a mix of this vocabulary

on both sides.

We wrote Conga in Holland – we were on promotion for

Dr Beat and were inspired by this Dutch audience in a club

there. We played I Need a Man, we played Dr Beat, and we

were out of material in English, but they were saying, “We

want more, we want more”. Emilio took out his accordion

and said, “I’m going to play that medley of Cuban congas

that we play at the end of the gigs.” I said: “But, they don’t

speak Spanish”. He said: “They don’t speak English either,

so what’s difference?”, so we played the song, and they

went crazy. Standing in an alley at three in the morning, I

told my drummer that we needed to write a song based on

that rhythm, the legitimate percussion of a conga, you

know, with a funk bass line and a dance beat.


We returned to Miami, and before we recorded the song,

we started playing it live. People would flock to the dance

floor as if they were hearing a hit, when they were really

hearing a song that was literally brand new. So, we very

much believed that we could make it happen. The tough

part was convincing the record company, and then radio, to

actually play it, because they would say, “It’s too American

for the Latins,” and “It’s too Latin for the Americans” – and

we would say: “That’s exactly who we are, and we want to

stick by our sound. We want to be successful, and who we

are.” And, sure enough, we were right – we just had to

stick to our guns.

Is there anywhere in the world you would like to perform

your music where you haven’t already?

In a free Cuba. A free Cuba would mean a Cuba that holds

free elections, where the Castro government is out of the

picture, where people can choose their future, can choose

their representatives, can freely choose to follow their

religion, will not be jailed for speaking freely, and where I

can truly sing about freedom of speech and not have to

worry about speaking words on the stage that will either

get me arrested or cause violence in the audience. I pray

it will happen in my lifetime; the chances look slimmer

right now, but I never lose hope that one day I can sing in

my homeland.

How did it feel to receive your first Grammy?

I had been nominated six times before I actually received my

first Grammy! However, what was very beautiful, was that I

received it for Mi Tierra, a seminal album for us. If I had to

choose one album only to stay behind in the world, that

would be it, because it presented my culture to the world,

my roots, the place where our Latin sound came from, that

mix of the Anglo and the Cuban which is who I am. When

they called our name [to collect the Grammy], we had just

performed. I think it was one of the first times a Spanish

song had been performed by a band on the Grammys. I was

standing backstage and I couldn’t even hear when the

announcement was made. So, when I was told I had won, I

ran out there and I don’t even remember what I said. It was

just one of those moments; a euphoria that is hard to

describe, especially because it was an album that was in my

native language and had such incredible acclaim all over,

and still does. I will never forget that night since it was one

of the most beautiful nights, professionally, in my life.


Why do you think so many millions of people around the

world connect with you and your music?

I’ve thought a lot as to what it is about our music that

people connect to, especially so many different people. I

think it’s the rhythm. I think we all have a very guttural and

basic reaction to rhythm. Lyrics can be secondary, but when

you throw down a song that people can move their bodies

to, and dance to, that really breaks the ice, and it doesn’t

matter what culture you’re talking about.

After we produced a couple of songs that were rhythmic,

it was important for me to do a ballad, because that’s the

kind of stuff I loved to write. By the time Words Get In The

Way came out, our first big hit as a ballad, people already

knew us as a dance band. Although they tried to keep us in

that hole, and the record company really wanted us to keep

doing what was successful, we made it a point to do

something that was beyond that, because we knew that

ultimately it would free us up to create and produce the kind

of music that we loved, which was not just dance music.

I have always tried to write about subjects that are

human in nature: love, losing love, getting it back. I stay

away from politics and religion. Although I have written

some songs with social commentary, talking about freedom

of speech, I prefer music that bridges and unites. I have

stayed away from political themes because music was my

escape from all that – I lived a very political life with my Dad,

with Bay of Pigs and then Vietnam, and my music was an

escape from those hard times.

You were at the height of your fame in March 1990, when

your tour bus was hit by an out-of-control tractor trailer

on a snowy Pennsylvania highway. You suffered massive

injuries and were told you may spend the rest of your life

in a wheelchair. How did you get through the experience,

and were you able to derive anything positive from it?

I derived a lot of incredibly beautiful experiences from this

terrible accident, and from being paralysed. Number one,

the power of prayer. I had literally millions of people all over

the world praying for me, and I can tell you that I felt like I

was plugged into the wall and being energised by those

prayers. I absorbed them into my body, imagined and

visualised them reconnecting my nerves. I didn’t know at

the time that this type of visualisation is used in the

recovery of injured and ill people.

My prime motivation was to do as much as I could to

prevent my family going through what I went through with


my Dad. I knew that if I had to face being in a chair, I would,

but I did everything in my power [to aid my recovery] in

rehab. I was in rehab for six or seven hours every day,

getting massages, doing bio feedback.

Love, prayers and support got me through this tough

period. My husband didn’t leave my side for three months.

My family and so many people were part of my recuperation,

as well as, ultimately, my music.

After three months I went to the studio, because Emilio

had asked me to. He had an idea that he had written down

on the day of the accident, when we were being transported

to New York. He had written out the words ‘coming out of

the dark’ as he was in one helicopter and I was in the

medivac. It was a grey day and there was a ray of light that

kept hitting him in the eyes, so he wrote down this phrase.

Three months later he found the piece of paper, called

[singer songwriter] Jon Secada and went to the studio.

Emilio told me, “I would really love for you to come and work

on this”, because he knew that music had always been a

healing force in my life. He wanted to get me away from the

constant rehab and to focus on something positive.

When I got to the studio, Emilio and Jon were there, and

they sang me the melody to Coming Out Of The Dark and a

couple of lines that they had written. This feeling washed

over me of incredible thankfulness to everyone who had

sent a good thought or a prayer my way, and literally that’s

what the song is about. It took us 15 minutes to write it, and

it is a big thank you to every person who took time out of

their life and their day, and went to their places of worship,

just to make life better for me and to send me good and

positive thoughts. I knew that I wasn’t alone, and that was

instrumental in my recuperation.

Please tell us one of the most memorable moments of

your Miami Sound Machine days?

Oh my gosh, there were so many! I would say the biggest

highlight was stepping back on stage on 1st March 1991,

having broken my back, been paralysed and told that I would

probably never walk again, much less get back on a stage.

That night is the happiest I have ever been in my entire life. It

was about regaining my life, it was getting back my

independence, it was reclaiming what I was meant to do on

this earth, which was to entertain and sing; and, also, to be

an example to people that, no matter what happens in your

life, it all depends on how you deal with it, and you can

always fight your way back, no matter how difficult the odds.


How did your life story and 1987 hit

‘Anything for You’ come to be a Broadway

musical ‘On Your Feet!’? Was the process of

charting yours and Emilio's journey from

anonymity in Cuba to stardom in the United

States, for the theatre, an emotional

process?

It was an incredibly emotional process to sit

down and decide, first of all, what story we

were going to tell about our lives, because you

need to follow one thread. Alex Dinelaris, who

wrote our book, was brilliant. He spent a year

and a half just talking with Emilio and I, my

Mom and people who are pertinent to our

lives, then he went away and wrote. I told him

to choose the songs himself, because our

songs are like our kids – it’s impossible to

decide what goes in and what goes out.

The first time we sat down and listened to

the actors read the parts, I thought I was

going to be able to keep control. At one part, I

was hearing the actor playing my Dad singing

one of the first songs I ever wrote for Miami

Sound Machine (it’s pretty obscure, only real

fans are going to know When Someone

Comes Into Your Life), the tears started

welling up and I looked to Emilio for

emotional support, and he was already

bawling like a baby! I cried more in the two

years creating the musical than in my entire

life, but they were tears of joy, of

thankfulness, of feeling blessed that we were

able to share our story with so many people,

and hoping that, when people left the

theatre, they would take that with them. This

has been the case, because I have heard from

so many people that, being part of the show,

they had reclaimed one of their dreams that

they had given up, or fixed a situation with a

family member, or just had sheer joy as an

immigrant revelling in the fact that we can

live the American dream in this country. It

has been an incredibly emotional journey.

What was it like the first time you and

Emilio watched your lives played out on


stage in front of an audience?

My heart pounded hard the first time I

watched that show in front of an audience,

which was in Chicago. My sister was sitting

next to me, I was holding her hand, because

she had seen nothing about it, and when our

‘Dad’ stepped on stage and started singing,

we both broke down. I can’t tell you the

nerves, the excitement, the pride, the fear; it

was just a plethora of emotions that I will

never forget.

‘On Your Feet!’ is currently touring the

States for 80 weeks, including dates in

Boston, Cleveland and Detroit, as well as

your hometown of Miami. What is the

show’s core message?

A love story to music. It’s a story about love

between a man and a woman, love for this

country, yet without forgetting about the

country where we were born; it’s about

family; it’s about the American dream, and it’s

about two people struggling to make their

dream come true. Basically it’s all these

things wrapped up in a beautifully

choreographed package.

Aside from your music and ‘On Your Feet!’,

your business empire includes a football

team, restaurants and hotels, and you also

somehow find time to publicly advocate

against repression, defend human rights and

fight against violence. How do you juxtapose

your time to be such a good businesswoman,

wife, mother and public speaker?

My key word in life is balance, and Emilio and

I are a good partnership, so we help each

other as much as we can in everything. It’s

crucial to me to give back. We are in a

privileged position to have a voice because

people know us, and there have been

moments in my life where I have felt it is very

important to stand up for what I feel is right. I

will always do that, although sometimes it’s

not easy to do. Even though I am never going

to lecture people on how they should live or


My key word in life is

balance, and Emilio and I

are a good partnership, so

we help each other as much

as we can in everything

what they should do, and you are never going to hear any

lectures in my music, you are definitely going to hear an

opinion if I feel it is necessary to raise my voice.

Your daughter, Emily, taught herself drums, guitar and

keyboards by ear, graduated from Berklee College of Music,

performed her first concert as a Festival Miami headliner in

January of this year, and a few days later released her

sophisticated jazz-pop-funk debut album ‘Take Whatever

You Want’. What did you feel when you first heard Emily’s

music and watched her perform?

The first time I ever heard Emily sing was a very unique

experience because basically she never sang. She played

drums, she played guitar and piano, but she would stay far

away from stepping into Mommy’s territory. I think she was

afraid to sound too much like me. So, we were alone very early

one morning at our beach house. She had come back from her

first break after being away for a semester at school in Boston,

and she told me, “Mom, I need to do something. I need to sing

for you, but you can’t look at me and you can’t cry”. Of course, I

broke both those promises!

She would always say, “I don’t sing, I don’t sing” – notice

she didn’t say she couldn’t sing – but apparently, she hadn’t

even tried. What I heard come out of that baby girl’s mouth

blew me away. She was mature; it sounded like somebody

who had been singing for a lifetime. It was mind-blowing.

She went back to school and, within two weeks, started

sending me completely produced tracks. She would call me or

text me at two in the afternoon and say, “Mom, I have an idea

for a song. Are you going to be up late?” and I would say,

“Yeah.” I was always up late waiting. At two in the morning,

she would send me a completely produced track, recorded by

herself in her apartment, and that is where that album came

from. She started writing and recording songs, never

imagining they would become her first effort, which was Take

Whatever You Want.

Whilst I am very objective, she is just amazing. She is the

best musician in the family, a unique singer and an amazing

writer as well. Not just a songwriter, but a real writer.

Are there any aspects of the notoriously harsh music

industry which, as parents, you and Emilio would have

preferred to protect Emily from?

Well, of course we want to protect Emily, and our son as well,

but once you make a choice about what you want to do, you

have to learn in your own skin. It is a completely different


industry now. Emily has a lot of freedom and there is a lot of

opportunity to get your music out there. At the same time,

everything is fragmented, so you don’t reach the numbers that

we did once you are signed to a big label; that just doesn’t exist

anymore. But, what I always tell her is, “You need to share your

passion and your music with the world. You are fortunate to be

able to do it, and just make sure you stay true to yourself.” We will

be there to support her in every way possible, especially because

we know a lot of the ins and outs of the business, but we can’t

possibly compare life now in the music industry to life as we

knew it, especially when we started. She has to walk that path on

her own and make her own decisions. She is very clear on who

she is and what she wants to do, so I’m not worried in that

respect. We will always be here, supporting her 1000 per cent.

My son, [Nayib], I am proud to say, is more on the movie

side. He has created a cultural phenomenon here in Miami – he

is attempting to save 35mm as the world goes digital, and he

has his own events space where he celebrates cult films and

35mm movies.

Despite the fact that we are a very tight knit family, I think

we have been able to get through to our kids the importance of

walking their own paths.

What is your favourite hotel in the world to visit, relax and

recharge?

There are so many places that I have loved, I can’t single out

just one. But I have several favourite hotels where we always

stay because, simply stated, they feel like home. The May Fair

Hotel in London; the iconic Westin Palace in Madrid which is

more than a century old; and the Sunset Marquis Hotel in the

heart of Los Angeles. To me, the most important things when

travelling are to have a comfortable bed, a wonderful shower

with lots of pressure and hot, hot water – basically temperature

control at my fingertips – and a place to put my bags.

We spent quite a bit of money buying excellent mattresses

and beautiful linens for our hotels – Costa d'Este in Vero Beach

and Cardozo South Beach on Ocean Drive. Both are in plum

locations on the Miami beachfront.

What’s next for Gloria Estefan?

Hopefully, a nice long vacation. Even though I say this all the

time, I have never really been able to travel the world as a

tourist – I was always working. Everybody else could see things,

but I had to stay quiet, locked away, so I wouldn’t get sick. I

would truly love to re-travel the world, just as a tourist.

www.gloriaestefan.com


GLO

Shopping i

BETROTTER

n Mayfair

ONLY IN ONE EXCLUSIVE

LONDON DISTRICT WILL YOU

FIND HIGH FASHION AND

DESIGNER STORES SIDE-BY-SIDE

WITH PRIVATE MEMBERS CLUBS,

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AND RIFLE MAKER! DAWN

GIBSON AND NICHOLAS

CHRISOSTOMOU TAKE A STROLL

THROUGH UPMARKET MAYFAIR,

WHICH IS STILL A REFRESHINGLY

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OLD AND NEW.

Writer Samuel Johnson observed that “when a man is tired of

London, he is tired of life”. His words seem especially

appropriate to the select and fashionable district of Mayfair,

one of the most exclusive addresses anywhere in the world.

Despite the increasing prominence of other London

neighbourhoods – not least affluent Knightsbridge and the

cinematically appealing Notting Hill – Mayfair has a special

leafy charm borne out of centuries of class and style, making

it tailor-made for a stylish weekend break. Whether taking tea

at The Ritz, shopping the new season collections by the

world’s top designers, walking the back streets looking for

hidden treasures, or sipping a cocktail at a fashionable

restaurant, a few days and nights can easily be spent in and

around this most traditional yet cutting-edge part of London.

Bordered by the bustle and buzz of Piccadilly, Oxford and

Regent Streets, as well as the bucolic green expanse of Hyde

Park, there are few locations to rival Mayfair for luxury retail



therapy. Pivotal to Mayfair’s shopping crown is New Bond

Street, arguably the most famous luxury shopping destination

in the country, and the world’s fourth most expensive

shopping location ranked by prime rental value, behind New

York’s Fifth Avenue, Causeway Bay in Hong Kong and Paris’s

prestigious Champs-Élysées. However, whilst New Bond

Street is the most-pricey place to shop in the U.K., it is along

its many side streets where the real retail therapy happens,

since here the slightly lower rents attract independent

boutiques and up-and-coming designers. But where to start?!

If you have already visited many of London’s landmark

stores close by – namely Harrods, Selfridges, Fortnum &

Mason and Liberty – then it’s time for a self-guided walking

tour to take in everything from the most prestigious

international design houses to quirky little specialist

boutiques. The perfect starting point is the exquisitely stylish

and oh-so-very London Burlington Arcade, a covered

promenade of small, exclusive shops that was one of the

first shopping arcades in England when it opened in 1819.

Dubbed “an iconic runway uniting Piccadilly and Bond

Street”, the arcade runs from Piccadilly to Burlington

Gardens, and every frontage is a visual delight designed to

turn fashion conscious heads. You can’t help but be

enchanted by Penhaligon’s, a London fragrance house

established in 1870 and a veritable treasure trove of gift

ideas (16-17 Burlington Arcade www.penhaligons.com). At

no. 24, The Vintage Watch Company boasts a collection of

some of the rarest vintage Rolex watches in the world

(www.vintagewatchcompany.com), whilst a few doors

away at no. 43, family-run Armour-Winston has been

dealing in fine pre-owned watches and jewellery for more

than sixty years (www.armourwinston.co.uk). Those of you

with a sweet tooth will find it nigh on impossible to pass

Ladurée at no. 71-72 without nipping in for a divine French

macaron or two (https://laduree.co.uk), or if you fancy

nibbling on high quality traditional confectionary produced

by chocolatier to the Queen, a few minutes away in St.

James’s you will find Prestat, where you can get your hands

on handcrafted truffles packaged in gorgeously vibrant

boxes. (www.prestat.co.uk)

Once you emerge from the arcade, set off on Old Bond Street,

from the corner of Piccadilly, to experience one of the best

luxury shopping streets in the world, where the crème of

international and British designers vie for your attention, and

your wallet. Start with the flagship London store of Alexander

McQueen, the late British genius and award-winning

designer, who originally trained on nearby Savile Row and

was renowned for pushing fashion boundaries. After perusing

covetable tailored separates and ladylike party pieces at

McQueen, saunter next door to Dolce & Gabbana for some

Italian high fashion, then cross the road to dip into Cartier and

Valentino. Keep walking and you will come across Gucci,

Saint Laurent, Prada, Rolex, Tiffany & Co., Chanel (which has

both a fine jewellery store and an apparel store on New Bond

Street), Asprey, Bvlgari, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Burberry, Miu

Miu, Jimmy Choo and many more. The displays are so artfully

arranged, it is worth the walk for the window shopping alone.

A stroll along Mount Street, from Park Lane, is also a Mayfair

shopping expedition must. Originally built in the 1700s, the

street’s name comes from Mount Field, which included

Oliver’s Mount, the remains of fortifications erected during

the English civil war. When many leases were approaching

expiry in the late 1800s, the first Duke rebuilt the street with

the beautifully detailed Queen Anne revival style of

architecture that can still be seen today.

Whilst Mount Street was once the preserve of art dealers,

aristocratic ladies who lunch and gentlemen with a

penchant for rifles and cigars (you can still buy both here),

these days you don’t need to be sporting a pearl necklace to

browse this upscale locale. Since the arrival of the Marc

Jacobs store in 2007, Mount Street has become a veritable

fashion hub. Where Jacobs goes others usually follow, and

so now, a decade later, fashion plays a vital role in the

distinctive character of 21 st century Mayfair. Whether you

stick to the main drag’s designer boutiques or venture down

the side streets in search of something a little more unique,

be warned, you will almost certainly find yourself tempted to

stretch the plastic here! Fashion houses Balenciaga, Céline

and Oscar de la Renta sit side-by-side with jeweller Solange

Azagury-Partridge, watchmaker Richard Mille, gunmaker

James Purdey, iconic seafood restaurant Scott’s, and Allen’s,

one of London’s best-known butchers. This combination of

newer brands sitting alongside long-established

quintessentially English retailers has ensured the survival of

Mount Street’s distinctive character well into the next decade.

In the very heart of Mayfair Village and amidst all this retail

royalty, you will find The Connaught, a grand, genteel

119-room Edwardian hotel much loved by visiting Americans.

If you plan to spend the weekend in Mayfair this is the place

to rest your head, but be sure to request one of the 30 rooms

in the new wing, where the luxe contemporary

accommodations ooze a gentle Oriental feel, and include mini

bars housed within Chinese armoires and dazzling white

Thassos marble bathrooms (www.the-connaught.co.uk). On

the foodie front, there are now two restaurants at The



Connaught which are worthy of a blow-out. At the recently

opened Jean-Georges at The Connaught – which overlooks

Mount Street and is helmed by the world-renowned

Alsatian-American chef – Jean-Georges Vongerichten marries

classic French and Asian flavours like no one else

(www.jean-georges.com). Meanwhile, lunching at Hélène

Darroze’s two Michelin-starred restaurant, set within a

historic dining room complete with beautiful wood panelling

and floral plasterwork ceiling, is a veritable gastronomic treat

(www.helenedarroze.com).

It was thanks to The Connaught that the small plaza in front of

the hotel was transformed by world-renowned Japanese artist

Tadao Ando’s remarkable sculptural water feature, ‘Silence’,

positioned just where Mount Street passes Carlos Place. Do

stop here to appreciate this delightful piece of urban art, which

was jointly commissioned by Grosvenor Estates and the hotel.

The unveiling of ‘Silence’ marked the completion of Grosvenor's

public space improvement works on Mount Street and ushered in

a whole new era for this chic shopping jewel of central London.

Another Mayfair retail hub not to be missed is South Audley

Street, which runs north to south from the southwest corner

of Grosvenor Square to Curzon Street. Amongst other retailers,

Marc Jacobs’s less expensive diffusion line can be found here

at no. 56, plus Canadian born Turkish fashion designer Erdem

Moralıoğlu’ two-storey London flagship store at no. 70.

If you want some expert tips, London Shopping Tours offer a

range of experiences to suit different budgets, from a group

tour centred on the Oxford Street area which includes

Mayfair, Piccadilly and Marylebone, to personalised tours

that can go anywhere you like, and may even include

exclusive access to sample and VIP sales

(www.londonshoppingtours.co.uk). Bespoke shopping tours

and stylist sessions are also offered by The Fashion Service,

founded by Lucinda Cook after more than a decade of

working with a variety of high-end glossies, including

British and American Vogue (www.thefashionservice.com).

Regardless of whether you take a tour or simply amble

around its gorgeous streets at your own pace, spending any

amount of time Mayfair is guaranteed to provide a heady

combination of retail temptation and luxe lifestyle

possibilities. At the very least you will pick up some

extremely stylish souvenirs plus some gifts for forever

grateful friends, but don’t be too surprised if you end up

going home with enough booty for a whole new look. You’d

better warn your bank manager in advance!

A

AL JASRA HANDICRAFTS CENTRE

www.btea.bh/aljasra-handcrafts

ANANTARA SRI LANKA www.anantara.com/srilanka

ARDOR KNITWEARS www.ardorknitwears.com

ARIA HOTEL www.ariahotelbudapest.com

ATHENSWAS HOTEL www.athenswas.gr

ATLAS HOTEL www.atlashoian.com

AZZA FINE JEWELLERY www.azzaalhujairi.com

B

BENTO CAFÉ www.facebook.com/bentocafenepal/

D

DHUKUTI www.facebook.com/dhukutiacp

DWARIKA’S HOTEL www.dwarikas.com

DWARIKA’S RESORT

www.dwarikas-dhulikhel.com

E

ES FUM www.restaurant-esfum.com

EZ ART POTTERY www.ezartpottery.com

F

FIRE AND ICE www.fireandicepizzeria.com

FLORA FARM www.flora-farms.com

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL BAHRAIN BAY

www.fourseasons.com/bahrain/

G

GARDEN OF DREAMS www.gardenofdreams.org

GLORIA ESTEFAN www.gloriaestefan.com

H


https://kathmandu.regency.hyatt.com

I

IBRIDA www.facebook.com/Ibridabahrain/

INTO THE BLUE DIVE CENTER www.intothebluebh.com

K


http://dwarikas.com/dining/kaiser-cafe

KLUB360º www.klub360.com

KOBOLD www.koboldwatch.com

L

LANSERHOF LANS www.lanserhof.com

LAS VENTANAS AL PARAÍSO

www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/las-ventanas-los-cabos

LEVEL 3 TERRACES www.facebook.com/level3terraces

M

MADE HOTEL www.madehotels.com

MAKO’S http://dwarikas.com/dining/mako-s

MALIBU www.noburestaurants.com/malibu/

MANDARIN ORIENTAL

www.mandarinoriental.com/bodrum

MARINA VAPTZAROVA www.marinavaptzarova.com

MÁXIMO BISTROT www.maximobistrot.com.mx

MESA FRANCA www.instagram.com/mesafranca/

MEZZE http://roadhouse.com.np/durbarmarg

MODA MALL www.modabahrain.com

MOMOFUKO www.momofuku.com

N

NOON BY NOOR www.noonbynoor.com

O

ONYADO CHIKURINTEI www.chikurintei.jp/en/

P

PIANO B www.pastapur.com

PUNTA MITA www.fourseasons.com/puntamita/

S

SANTA MONICA BREAKFAST CLUB

www.santamonicabreakfast.club

SOFITEL BAHRAIN ZALLAQ THALASSA SEA & SPA

www.sofitel.com/bahrain

ST. REGIS MARDAVALL www.stregismardavall.com

SWAYAMBHU (MONKEY TEMPLE)

www.swayambhu.buddhism-foundation.org

T

THE BROADVIEW HOTEL www.thebroadviewhotel.ca

THE HOXTON, PARIS

www.thehoxton.com/paris/paris/hotels

THE MACAU ROOSEVELT www.themacauroosevelt.com

THE PENINSULA PARIS http://paris.peninsula.com/

TIERRA PATAGONIA HOTEL & SPA www.tierrahotels.com/

TXOKO SKY LOUNGE www.thedomainhotels.com

V

VENTANA BIG SUR www.ventanabigsur.com

R

RAMALAYA www.ramalayadesignestablishment.com

RICHARD SANDOVAL www.richardsandoval.com

RITZ-CARLTON, BAHRAIN

www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/middle-east/bahrain

ROADHOUSE CAFÉ, BOUDHA

http://roadhouse.com.np/boudha


(19) The Cultured Traveller - Third Anniversary Edition, October-November 2017 Issue 19

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