(17) The Cultured Traveller, June-July 2017 Issue 17

ISSUE 17

JUN-JUL 2017

ROTTERDAM

CARTAGENA • THE SAXON JO’BURG • SIEM REAP

INDIAN ACCENT • GAVIN RAJAH • QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT

HOTELS THAT DEFINE

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HIGHLIGHTS

JUNE-JULY 2017 ISSUE 17

42 RAPT WITH ROTTERDAM

If you’re tired of the same old city break

destinations put ROTTERDAM on your

radar. Best known for its awe-inspiring

contemporary architecture, the

Netherland port is rapidly gaining a

reputation among cultured travellers for

its lively nightlife, rich art scene and

historic, picturesque canal-side

neighbourhoods. Dawn Gibson falls

under the city’s unique spell.

20 GRANITIC SEYCHELLEN

HOSPITALITY

Four kilometres east of La Digue Island in

Seychelles lies Félicité, a small 652-acre

island strewn with enormous granite

boulders in a huge variety of shapes and

sizes. Tucked between the rocks and

lush hillsides are 30 spacious timber

villas which make up SIX SENSES ZIL

PASYON, undoubtedly one of the most

insanely beautiful resorts in the western

Indian Ocean.

10 ONE MOUNTAINOUS PRIZE

24 SUPREME SRI LANKAN

WELLNESS

Inspired by the words of Finnish architect

Juhani Uolevi Pallasmaa, and with just

twenty architecturally edgy rooms

conceptually designed and inspired by the

country's Buddhist meditation caves,

SANTANI is the deluxe Ayurvedic wellness

resort that many say the Sri Lankan

hospitality industry lacked until now.

130 SPANISH GASTRONOMIC

GLAMOUR

Put together Spanish pop music heartthrob

and Miami Beach local Enrique Iglesias,

international tennis champion Rafael Nadal,

and six-time NBA All-Star San Antonio

Spurs player Pau Gasol and what do you

get? Answer: TATEL MIAMI - sister to the

highly successful Madrid restaurant of the

same name and more a clubstaurant than a

conventional eatery, as you’d expect from a

central South Beach venue with three

famous co-owners.

2,000 metres above sea level, ALILA JABAL AKHDAR is perched on the edge of a ravine,

overlooking a dramatic gorge in a central section of the Al Hajar Mountains in northeastern

Oman. The Cultured Traveller Prize Draw offers the lucky winner an opportunity to spend

two nights half board with three friends in the lap of contemporary Arabic luxury, in a lavish

two-bedroom private villa at this exclusive mountain resort.

Jun-Jul 2017 The Cultured Traveller 5

CONTENTS

44

74

10

18

12

94

8 EDITOR’S LETTER

12 NEWSFLASH

In issue 17 the TCT team rounds-up

the seasonal events and unmissable

festivals happening in June and July

2017 around the world, including

standout classical music FESTIVAL OF

SAINT-DENIS in France, MEADOWS IN

THE MOUNTAINS in Bulgaria, the

bizarre WORLD WIFE-CARRYING

CHAMPIONSHIPS in Finland, San Diego's

four-day convergence of animated fun

COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL, South

Korea’s mammoth BORYEONG MUD

FESTIVAL, and the zany RED BULL

SOAPBOX RACE at London’s Ally Pally.

18 REST YOUR HEAD

Featured hotels in the June-July 2017

issue include prestigious Oetker

Collection’s newest hospitality

masterpiece PALÁCIO TANGARÁ set in

São Paulo’s Burle Marx Park; floating

38 storeys above the ground in Cesar

Pelli-designed Nihonbashi Mitsui

Tower, the Japanese capital's

MANDARIN ORIENTAL TOKYO; and

57-room KATAMAMA in Bali, little

brother to Seminyak favourite Potato

Head Beach Club. We also drop

anchor at CHARMING HOUSE, a

boutique hotel with three different but

connected sites in the spectacularly

beautiful Italian city of Venice.

74 SUITE ENVY

Once a massive private residence set

in 10 acres of magnificent landscaped

gardens in Sandhurst, one of

Johannesburg’s most elite suburbs,

Judith Manson spends a weekend in a

200m 2 Presidential Suite at the

renowned SAXON, the same hotel

where Nelson Mandela resided while

his home was under construction, and

edited his autobiography, ‘Long Walk

to Freedom’.

82 BOARDING PASS

Our Editor-in-Chief Nicholas

Chrisostomou often spends as much

time hurtling through the sky as he

does with his feet on terra firma, so

who better to round up those items we

should never board a plane without.

From eye gel and water spray to a

goose down travel pillow and silk eye

mask, Nicholas reveals his in-flight

essentials in Boarding Pass.

86 NO SHOES REQUIRED

On the edge of Arabia’s famed Empty

Quarter, an hour and a half outside

Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates,

solitude and tranquility set the world to

rights at QASR AL SARAB DESERT

RESORT BY ANANTARA. Here Ashlee

Starratt navigates the unending dunes

with the sand between her toes,

134

82

86

exploring this wanderer’s oasis

paradise, part of a 9,000 sq km

nature reserve.

94 SPOTLIGHT

A strategic fortress when places like

Buenos Aires and Caracas were still

blueprints, CARTAGENA is

undoubtedly the most romantic city in

Latin America. Nicholas

Chrisostomou investigates the

incredibly well preserved walled city,

and uncovers hip bars and gourmet

restaurants, art galleries and antique

stores, boutique hotels and designer

shops behind the whitewashed, ochre

and terracotta façades.

112 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

An enchanting and engaging saga of

love and deceit, of power struggles

and battles and of age-old conflict, is,

according to local folklore, the

backdrop to the foundation of SIEM

REAP. It is a land of mysticism, wonder

and, above all else, architectural

brilliance. Dilraz Kunnummal

explores the famed North Western

Cambodian city, host to some of Asia’s

most incredible temples.

122 TASTE & SIP REVIEW

Indian food is beloved the world over

for its rich sauces, succulent meats

and accomplished vegetarian dishes.

Since opening in 2009, INDIAN

ACCENT in New Delhi has been

consistently ranked as the one of the

country’s top dining destinations, and

is the only restaurant in India to feature

in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants

2017. Alex Benasuli checks out its

culinary credentials for TCT.

134 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

On Sunday 21 st May 2017, RINGLING

BROS. AND BARNUM & BAILEY said its

final farewell to a sold out crowd of

17,000 enthusiastic circus fans, at the

Nassau Veterans Memorial Coliseum

in Uniondale, 19 miles east of New

York City on Long Island. TCT charts

the 146-year history of “The Greatest

Show On Earth” and why it was forced

to pack up its big tent forever.

144 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

Since launching his eponymous

label in 2000, GAVIN RAJAH has

demonstrated his ample skills for

original and technically superior

workmanship balanced with

creativity and commercial sensibility,

making his brand synonymous with

fine craftsmanship, luxurious

finishes and divine fabrics. The

renowned South African fashion

designer chats exclusively with The

Cultured Traveller.

112

130

144

122


EDITOR’S LETTER

When I was young my parents used to take my sister

and I to The Imperial in Torquay, which, during the

Victorian seaside resort’s heyday, was one of

Devon's most glamorous hotels, perched on a cliff-top on the

outskirts of the town since 1866. Despite being so young, to this

day I recall the chandeliers, marble floors, cornicing and formal

gardens with a sense of romance. Whilst I wonder how The

Imperial looks now, in my mind it will always be grand,

imposing and timeless. I used to love the time we spent at The

Imperial, even though we usually all stayed in the same

bedroom and apart from breakfasts we rarely dined in the hotel.

I’m often asked my favourite places to stay around the world,

or what prompts the inclusion of a property in our Rest Your

Head section. In the fast moving 21 st century hospitality

industry, with new hotels opening every week, it’s hard to

pinpoint why a hotel is “hot” or worthy of mention in The

Cultured Traveller, apart from ticking the usual boxes of

course. But now I think about it, a hotel’s longevity and

whether it will stand the test of time is a sure factor. As a child

The Imperial obviously had a profound effect on me because I

still remember it today. Back then it made me imagine how I’d

like to travel and live as an adult, if I had the means, of course.

Today there are hotels I adore because they trigger a

visceral response and always make me long to return. They

range from a homely four-room hotel on the South coast of Sri

Lanka, to a slick boutique property in the upscale downtown

heart of Beirut. Both I like immensely for completely different

reasons but are equally memorable. For those who live for our

next trips (I include myself in this group), and dream of places

before we’ve ever been there, we try to showcase in TCT hotels

that may – like The Imperial did for me – create lasting

memories rather than passing fancies.

There are at least four Rest Your Head hotels I’m rather keen

to experience (page 18), Dawn Gibson’s diary of her visit to the

seaport city of Rotterdam makes me want to rush to the

Netherlands and investigate for myself (page 44), and Ashlee

Starratt’s dreamy account of her time in UAE’s Empty Quarter

sounds like the perfect place to clear my mind (page 86). I hope

that the properties and destinations featured in this issue will

spark initial excitement, and some, like my visit to charismatic

Cartagena (page 94), will mark the beginning of a new romance.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief

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CONTRIBUTORS

DAWN GIBSON

CITY FOCUS

Dawn Gibson is a multi-tasking journalist who is passionate about travel, fashion, food,

culture and the arts. Never happier than when about to board a plane en route to a

far-flung part of the globe, she is also a keen scuba diver always in search of the perfect

coral reef. Dawn has worked as a senior news reporter for a leading city daily newspaper

in Australia and as editor for a glossy lifestyle magazine in the Middle East. Her work has

appeared in numerous international print and online publications, including Qatar

Airways’ first class magazine Oryx Premium.

JUDITH MANSON

SUITE ENVY

After spending 20 years in the publishing industry, Judith now devotes most of

her time to organising mass participation running events in the UK and

abroad. A keen traveller from a young age, she visited New York three times

before the age of 13. Since then her ‘been to’ list has expanded to include

Australia, South Africa, Gibraltar, Greece, Italy, Spain, Switzerland and Turkey,

with plenty more on the horizon. Now MD of her own event management

company, Judith is able to combine her love for travelling and events perfectly.

ASHLEE STARRATT

NO SHOES REQUIRED

Ashlee Starratt is a Canadian editor and journalist based out of Doha, Qatar. With a

passion for story-telling, if it’s lifestyle, wellness, travel or food, she’s probably written

about it. With a background in print media and television across Canada and the Middle

East, Ashlee has worked as Editorial Director for Qatar Happening and ABODE

magazines, as a reporter, videographer and host for www.haligonia.ca, and as a

producer for Pink Dog Productions out of Halifax, Nova Scotia. She can be found on her

travels, collecting stamps in her passport, in search of stories that need to be told.

ALEX BENASULI

TASTE & SIP REVIEW

Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City,

he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain,

France and Germany. A successful two-decade career in finance often took

him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East.

Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex has a keen

appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten

track alternative destinations and experiences.

DILRAZ KUNNUMMAL

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Journalist, public speaker, dancer, explorer and mum to a cheeky one year-old, Dilraz has

a decade of experience working in the media industry across India and the Middle East.

Her portfolio includes being the editor for a women’s magazine, heading a business

publication’s editorial team, running a corporate newspaper and producing radio shows

for a channel with 45 stations across India.

A lifelong expat, Dilraz enjoys learning more about different cultures and so can be usually spotted

at museums and exhibitions - when she is not eating out or spending time with her family.


WIN A TWO-NIG

JABAL VILLA AT A

PRIZE DRAW

This incredible prize offers the lucky winner and three friends

the opportunity to spend two nights in the lap of luxury,

staying in a lavish 350m 2 two-bedroom private Jabal Villa at

exclusive Alila Jabal Akhdar mountain resort in Oman, inclusive

of return 4WD airport transfers from Muscat Airport, daily

breakfasts and evening dinners at Juniper Restaurant, plus four

individual 90-minute signature treatments at the resort’s

deluxe on-site Spa Alila.

2,000 metres above sea level, Alila Jabal Akhdar is perched on the edge of a

ravine overlooking a dramatic gorge in a central section of the Al Hajar

Mountains in northeastern Oman, in the epicentre of the highest range in the

Eastern Arabian Peninsula. This exclusive resort of just 86 beautifully appointed

suites and villas, famed for its personal service and unique location, is a calm,

secluded and boutique affair, and a veritable haven for adventure travellers,

nature lovers or those just seeking a retreat from city life.

Alila Jabal Akhdar's crowning glory (aside from the incredible views) are two

sprawling private villas, set away from the main hotel, named Rummanah and

Jowz after the pomegranates and walnuts the region is famed for. These

exclusive two-bedroom villas offer plush and spacious surroundings, plenty

large enough for a family of four or a select group of friends, each including a

huge private infinity pool facing the gorge. WWW.ALILAHOTELS.COM/JABALAKHDAR

To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city, email

and mobile number) to WIN@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM

All prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The

draw will take place after 31 st July 2017 and the lucky winner will be notified via email. This prize

can be used between 1 st September 2017 through 1 st March 2018 and is subject to blackout dates.

The Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties.

HT HALF BOARD STAY FOR FOUR PEOPLE IN A

LILA JABAL AKHDAR IN THE OMANI MOUNTAINS

PRIZE

WORTH

USD 12,000


FESTIVAL OF

SAINT-DENIS

FRANCE

This standout classical

music festival is hosted

inside the Basilica Saint-Denis, a

masterpiece of Gothic art, and is a

great excuse to cross the périphérique

ring road and discover this delightful

northern Parisian suburb. One of the

main events in the French cultural

calendar since 1968, the festival is

organised by the city of Saint-Denis

under the auspices of the

Île-de-France region, the French

Ministry of Culture and

Communication, Le Centre des

Monuments Nationaux and Radio

France. International conductors and

soloists perform side-by-side with

prestigious Parisian orchestral acts

plus some of the greatest artists on

the international classical circuit. A

highlight of the 2017 50 th edition will

be the performance of Mozart’s

requiem by the Orchestra National de

France, the Chœur de Radio France

plus a high-level vocal soloist quartet,

conducted by James Gaffigan, musical

director of Lucerne’s celebrated

symphonic orchestra.

30 May - 30 June 2017

www.festival-saint-denis.com

DISTORTION

DENMARK

Since 1998, Distortion has

been pushing the limits of

Copenhagen’s street life and party

culture, attracting DJs from across the

globe and seeing the city centre

teeming with thousands of revellers

for five days. Almost twenty years on,

Distortion is now a mammoth

over-the-top party extravaganza that

offers massive street parties during

the day (think impromptu crowd

surfing and street-food aplenty), an

intimate club festival exploring new

music at night (Distortion Club), and,

to round off the whole thing in

spectacular fashion, a two-day rave

held at Copenhagen’s harbour

(Distortion Ø). Being such an

eco-friendly city, the street festivities

are financed by partygoers

purchasing a "Gadearmbåndet" street

bracelet so Distortion can properly

clean up Copenhagen once the

musical mayhem has finally ended.

31 May – 4 June 2017

www.cphdistortion.dk

12 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Jul 2017

MEADOWS IN

THE MOUNTAINS

BULGARIA

Few places on the planet

offer such an offbeat slice

of unconventional community-based

collaborative action as Meadows in

the Mountains, which takes place in

an eerily beautiful space in the

Rhodope mountains, which straddle

the border between Bulgaria and

Greece, and provide the perfect

setting and stunning vistas to tune

out of everyday life and plug into

free-spirited debauchery. Meadows in

the Mountains prides itself on its

respect for, and integration with, the

native community. Local inhabitants

house attendees and the

environmental policies are stricter

than almost every other global

gathering. This is not a festival about

global music superstars, but rather

the wild and romantic atmosphere

and an overall sense of escapism that

comes as much from revellers as from

the musicians and artists performing.

9-11 June 2017

www.meadowsinthemountains.com

RATH YATRA

INDIA

Rath Yatra is one of

India’s largest and most

important Hindu festivals, drawing

more than a million pilgrims and

devotees to the streets of Puri. Over

the years poets, saints and scriptures

have consistently praised the good

fortune associated with attending this

“festival of the chariots” since it is

one of the only times annually that

the deities leave the temple of

Jagannath allowing non-Hindus and

visitors to see them. The three

GLASTONBURY

U.K.

Glastonbury is the

grandfather of modern

day festival gatherings, launched in

1970 and now more of a settlement

than a music fest. Twice the size of

Bath and more like five or six festivals

rolled into one, Glastonbury’s more

like a refugee camp for society's arty

and most liberal than anything you'll

see elsewhere during Blighty’s

packed summer festival season. Such

breadth offers something for pretty

much everyone, attracting a vast and

diverse selection of people of around

150,000 ranging from middle-aged

backpackers with portable

deckchairs, to boozy jocks stripping

off on the first sight of sunshine,

spiritualists and yoga teachers,

dedicated hippies, yuppies, hipsters

and fashionistas. Since Glastonbury

is essentially a music festival above

all else, unsurprisingly there’s an

awful lot of musical talent to check

out. This year’s line-up is headlined

by none other than Radiohead, Katy

Perry, Ed Sheeran, Lorde, Emile Sandé

and The Jacksons, plus many more

acts to be announced across the

festival’s one hundred stages.

21-25 June 2017

www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk

figurines that make the trip are

Jagannath (considered to be the lord

of the universe and an incarnation of

Vishnu, the god of preservation), his

older brother Balabhadra, and their

sister Subhadra. They travel more

than a mile in elaborately constructed

45-foot-tall wooden chariots on Bada

Danda (Puri’s main street), from the

Jagannath Temple to the Gundicha

Temple where they remain for nine

days. During the procession - as

drums beat, gongs bang and conch

shells blow - pilgrims vie for even a

glimpse of the gods since they’re

associated with extreme good fortune

and the righting of wrongs.

25 June 2017

www.rathyatra.org

MONTREAL

INTERNATIONAL

JAZZ FESTIVAL

CANADA

Montreal is a city where a

heady mix of innovation,

musical appreciation, joie de vivre

and public celebration are all

important ingredients of the civic

cocktail. It's a city that loves the

tradition and history that jazz

WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS

FINLAND

Celebrating its 25 th year in

2017, this bizarre

competition has its roots in the tribal

practice of pillaging neighbouring

villages for womenfolk. Apparently a

robber by the name of

Rosvo-Ronkainen was particularly

keen on the practice of thieving other

people's wives in the late 1800's.

What started as a light-hearted

attraction in the small Finnish town

of Sonkajärvi has become a

world-recognised event, which sees

forty pairs from seven countries fight

to complete a 253.5 metre-course in

the fastest time. The track is made up

of sand, grass and various obstacles,

including two log hurdles plus a

one-metre deep-water obstacle. If

the wife weighs less than 49 kilos,

she must wear a rucksack to reach

this minimum weight. Various

techniques are employed to carry the

wife, the most popular being the

“Estonian” style, where the crash

helmet-wearing wife is dangling

upside down on the man’s back!

30 June - 1 July 2017

www.eukonkanto.fi/en/

represents, but also respects the

flexibility and improvisation implicit

within the genre. The city’s inaugural

jazz event in 1980 was headlined by

no other than the great Ray Charles.

Since then - aided by the resurgence

of jazz in the 1980s - the Montreal

International Jazz Festival has grown

into the largest jazz festival in the

world. Headliners for the 2017 edition

include Bob Dylan, Diana Krall

(pictured) and Melissa Etheridge, plus

the Montreal Jubilation Gospel Choir,

which has performed for Her Majesty

Queen Elizabeth II and Nelson

Mandela, and transcends the roots of

African-American spiritual music with

its wonderfully world-class eclectic

gospel sound.

28 June - 8 July 2017

www.montrealjazzfest.com

FIESTA DE SAN FERMÍN

SPAIN

Every year thousands of

Pamploneses (people

from Pamplona), plus visitors who

flood into the pretty Spanish town

from all over the world, all dressed

from head to toe in immaculate white

clothing with red handkerchiefs tied

around their necks, fill the streets of

Pamplona to celebrate the week of

festivities in honour of San Fermín,

also known as Los Sanfermines. The

festival of San Fermín mixes a variety

of contrasts: official and popular

culture, religion and profanity, new

and old, and order and chaos.

Celebrations kick off with the launch

of a rocket (el chupinazo) in

Pamplona’s Plaza Ayuntamiento at

noon on 6 th July, and end nine days

later on 14 th July. Every day includes a

much publicised bull-run, a parade of

colourful gigantes or cabezudos (big

headed giants), a bullfight, fireworks

and non-stop partying.

6-14 July 2017

www.sanfermin.com


KNYSNA

OYSTER FESTIVAL

SOUTH AFRICA

One of the rainbow

nation’s most popular

lifestyle and sporting gatherings, the

Pick n Pay Knysna Oyster Festival is a

10-day family-orientated event

aimed at foodies and sports lovers.

Oyster eating, oyster shucking, oyster

farm tours, oyster recipe challenges

and gourmet oyster-themed dinners

happen throughout the festival,

alongside wine and champagne

tastings aplenty. Attracting more than

70,000 visitors annually, oyster

lovers slurp and swallow their way

through more than 200,000 oysters

at over 20 dedicated venues which

serve the delectable molluscs au

naturel or cooked in a variety of

RED BULL

SOAPBOX RACE

U.K.

A unique no-holds-barred

downhill race spectacle, in

which drivers use only gravity and

courage as fuel (plus perhaps a

certain energy drink), Red Bull has

held more than 100 soapbox races

around the world since the first took

place in Brussels in 2000. Now an

international event staged everywhere

from Australia to Italy, amateur drivers

BASTILLE DAY

FRANCE

Marking the beginning of

one of the most violent

and famous revolutions in modern

history, Bastille Day on 14 th July

creative ways. Meanwhile the festival

hosts two top-notch competitive

sporting events - the Pick n Pay

Weekend Argus Rotary Cycle Tour and

the Pick n Pay Cape Times Knysna

Marathon - both of which are booked

up months in advance due to their

immense popularity.

7-16 July 2017

www.oysterfestival.co.za

race homemade engine-less vehicles

in a colourful downhill battle in front of

thousands of enthused fans. This

unique non-motorised racing event,

challenges both experienced racers

and amateurs alike to design and build

outrageous dream machines and

compete against the clock. Over the

years previous entries have included a

piano, a giant baby carriage, a rodeo

clown, a massive corn on the cob, a

jail cell and even the Golden Gate

Bridge. At the Red Bull Soapbox Race

at London’s Ally Pally this summer,

teams will be judged on speed,

creativity and showmanship. This

assumes, of course, that they make it

to the finish line!

9 July 2017

www.redbullsoapboxrace.com/uk/en/

celebrates French revolutionaries

storming the Bastille fortress-prison

in an event that is seen as the

uprising of the modern nation. Whilst

the largest celebrations invariably

take place in Paris, other events occur

throughout France, with the historic

fortress town of Carcassonne staging

one of the most visual pyrotechnic

parties on the planet. Two tips for

cultured travellers visiting France

around Bastille Day: Firstly, most

Parisians leave the city for the seaside

during the summer, so this is an

opportune time to bag a pretty

pied-à-terre (Paris is Airbnb's

second-biggest location on the

planet) and live like a local for this

classless people’s party. And the real

fun happens the night before on 13 th

July, with all manner of balls, dances

and parties throughout Paris.

14 July 2017

COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL

U.S.A.

The rise in popularity of

animated films, western

cartoons and Anime, as well as video

games and other fantasy novels, has

caused the Comic-Con franchise to

grow massively since the 70s.

Comic-Con International – San

Diego's four-day convergence of

costumes and fun – is where fans

meet industry stars and play in their

very own comic fantasyland. Packed

with events from autograph signings

to film screenings and costume

competitions, this behemoth

convention’s massive programming

schedule features more than 600

individual events, including hands-on

workshops, educational and

academic programming, animation

and film screenings, video games

forums, an autograph arena, portfolio

reviews, art shows, a masquerade

costume competition, and the Will

Eisner Comic Industry Awards. All in

just four days.

20-23 July 2017

www.comic-con.org

BORYEONG

MUD FESTIVAL

SOUTH KOREA

South Korea's most

popular annual festival

attracts millions to pools, slides and

wrestling arenas filled with mud!

Originally conceived as a marketing tool

for Boryeong mud cosmetics in 1998,

over time the festival has become a

vastly popular past time for visitors and

locals alike. Mud considered to be rich in

minerals used to manufacture

cosmetics in the country, is taken from

the Boryeong mud flats, 200 kilometres

south of Seoul, and driven to the

Daecheon beach area which is turned

into a mud wonderland where visitors

WORLD BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL

AUSTRIA

2017 is the 20 th

anniversary of one of the

most colourful and unusual

celebratory festivals you are ever

likely to see, the World Bodypainting

Festival, which has wowed audiences

year on year since its inception. From

make-up to tattoos, the human body

has been used as a canvas by people

all over the world for thousands of

years, with almost every culture in

history painting or adorned

themselves in some form of

celebration or ritual. Although the

name divulges basically what goes

on, there is far more to this visual

treasure trove than you might think,

with artists and models from over 40

different countries doing their best to

shock and entertain visitors. The

World Bodypainting Festival takes

place over the course of a week in the

picturesque Austrian holiday town of

Pörtschach, and has now grown into

the biggest and most well known

event of its type in the world

28-30 July 2017

www.bodypainting-festival.com

enjoy mud wrestling, mud sliding and

even swimming in a mammoth mud

bath. No festival is without controversy

of course, and in 2009 a group of more

than 200 school children developed a

skin rash after contact with the mud. But

despite the backlash the festival

continues to be incredibly popular and is,

for most South Koreans, their ultimate

summer fun destination. Particularly

energetic visitors can try the marine

mud-training course, whilst those

looking for something more relaxing can

chill in the mud massage zone. In the

evening, music and fireworks keep the

party going at the beach.

21-30 July 2017

https://english.visitkorea.or.kr


SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON

SEYCHELLES

Rest Your Head

SEYCHELLES, VENICE, KANDY, PLACENCIA, SEMINYAK, NEW YORK

PARIS, TOKYO, SÃO PAULO, CAMBRIDGE, AMSTERDAM, MALDIVES


SEYCHELLES

SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON

Four kilometres east of La Digue Island in Seychelles

lies Félicité, a small 652-acre granitic island, and the

fifth largest in an archipelago of 115. Originally a

coconut plantation in the early 1900s when it had a

native population of just 50, in the late 19 th century the

British exiled Sultan Abdullah of Perak to Félicité after

an uprising in the Perak region of Malaysia. Five years

later Sultan Abdullah moved to Mahé.

Today Félicité is most famous for its enormous

granite boulders strewn around the island in a huge

variety of jagged and curved shapes and sizes. Lending

the island a real Jurassic feel, one could easily be fooled

into thinking a dinosaur might walk out of the rocks at

any moment. Scattered along the shoreline and in the

crystalline turquoise waters, the boulders loom over

everything and are home to many species of fantastical

marine creatures. Needless to say diving in and around

Félicité is world-class. In addition to an incredible

variety of aquatic life, numerous flora, fauna, fruits and

vegetables grow throughout the island, including wild

vanilla orchids, wild mango, coconut palms, bananas

and oranges.

Whilst there are many insanely beautiful resorts in

the western Indian Ocean, little else may feel quite as

special as Six Senses Zil Pasyon, the only resort on this

private verging on primeval island. With just 30

spacious balau timber villas, ranging in size from 2,150

to 5,380 sq. ft., each is tucked into the lush vegetation

of the hillsides providing total privacy and stunning

ocean views. The décor is simple and contemporary,

decorated in a calming colour palette that reflects the

outdoors, making maximum use of high quality

materials such as local woods and blocks of Thai stone

in contrasting blue and grey tones. Every villa features a

whimsical swing for two by a giant bathtub, both facing

the ocean. There is attention to detail everywhere, from

plush towels edged in purple stitching to a chaise

carved into your personal plunge pool so you can

recline whilst admiring the view as the sun sets.

To get to the five treatment rooms of the spa, the

hammam, yoga platform and saltwater pool - all

situated on the wilder eastern side of the island - guests

must climb around massive granite boulders linked by

bouncy Robinson Crusoe-style rope bridges, making

even a walk to get a massage a mini adventure.

www.sixsenses.com/zil-pasyon



VENICE, ITALY

CHARMING HOUSE

Venice is one of the world’s most spectacular cities and to visit this centre of Italian beauty is to be immersed in the history of

an ancient and unique place. Staying in a stuffy full-service grand palazzo, bursting with antiques and reproduction artworks

and presided over by haughty staff can often cheapen the entire experience. Better to settle yourself into a classy and

intimate hotel that is every bit as different as the original grandeur that you are after all visiting Venice to see first hand.

Whilst there are seemingly hotels on every corner, few are stylish, well located, welcoming and affordable. Charming

House - a boutique hotel with three different sites in the city - has all these qualities in spades. Two of the hotels, DD724 and

DD694 (whose names are an abbreviation of their addresses in Sestiere Dorsoduro neighbourhood), are located at the very

epicentre of the enchanting Venetian art district, just steps from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Academia Gallery.

No signs mark the entrances (another good reason to name your hotel after its street address) but once inside there’s no

doubt where you are. The third property, Charming House, is located in between Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge,

making it the perfect base from which to explore the unfathomable canals and ancient streets.

Despite effectively being three separate hotels, there is an arc of unity that joins them, lovingly created through the vision

of owner Chiara Bocchini, who focused on contemporary Italian art and design to create luxurious living spaces that are richly

liveable, in warm muted colours and earthy tans and browns, splattered with unique and individual touches.

You will not find a front desk or lobby at any Charming House property - instead you are given the keys to the house and

invited to make yourself comfortable and feel at home right from the get go. A very good buffet breakfast – with fresh fruit and

pastries plus some cooked options – is included in the room rate and can be consumed in each house's stylish little breakfast

room or the privacy of your bedroom. Guest rooms range from the basic Essential category to a plush four-person Deluxe Suite.

The suite at DD694 enjoys blissful views over the Torreselle canal and the gardens of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.

www.thecharminghouse.com

KANDY, SRI LANKA

SANTANI

Almost certainly Sri Lanka’s first and currently only true luxury wellness resort, Santani was inspired by the words of Finnish

architect, Juhani Uolevi Pallasmaa, who said that "All great art evokes an experience of silence. The silence of art is not a

mere absence of noise but a silence that awakes a mental and sensory awareness that connects us with the benevolent

tranquillity of the universe”. Using these words as the resort's mantra, Santani's aim is to restore balance and help you get in

touch with your inner self. With the assistance of its charming staff and for those visitors dedicated to achieving their goals,

this is achieved with aplomb at Santani.

Founded by Sri Lankan Vickum Nawagamuwage (who was educated at Harvard before being snapped up by Deloitte),

Santani is the deluxe Ayurvedic big hitter that many say the Sri Lanka hospitality industry really lacked. Perhaps a little

extreme for some but a necessity for those who take wellness more seriously than just another term used to persuade

vacationers to book a holiday, the twenty architecturally edgy rooms at Santani are conceptually designed and inspired by

the country's Buddhist meditation caves, with only one outside opening in the front, thus cutting off peripheral distractions

and allowing guests to focus and slow their minds, similar to the effect sought by meditating monks. Each simply designed


room sits upon exposed steel pillars giving it an ‘inside-out’ feel, has been given a white wattle-and-daub finish that was

traditionally used in building walls and is finished with natural timber flooring. All slot seamlessly into the surrounding 48

acres of tea plantations and lush landscaping, which include every type of vegetation and fruit tree imaginable.

Fresh breezes replace air-conditioning (which consumes about 70% of energy use at any hotel) and almost 90% of the resort’s

timber (both structural and furniture) was recycled or up cycled, making Santani one of the most energy efficient hotels in the world.

Programmes are tailored to each guest following an initial assessment by Dr Sreekanth to determine your dosha.

Everything is covered, from weight loss to anti-ageing, joint pains to exhaustion, and trauma to depression. Thanks to

executive chef Wajira Gamage, a Relais & Château veteran who spent 16 years in France, food is super-fresh and mega

healthy made with seasonal produce sourced from local farms. Best of all are the views, maximised by floor-to-ceiling

windows, of the spectacular Knuckles mountain range, in the northern end of the Central Highlands of Sri Lanka.

Expect to leave Santani sleek, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, with your spirits cleansed, pumped and soaring.

www.santani.lk

CAMBRIDGE, U.K.

TAMBURLAINE

Famed throughout the world for its historic university, until recently Cambridge was rather lacking in cutting-edge

contemporary hospitality offerings to match the city’s young and upwardly mobile inhabitants, thriving and vibrant

scene and ongoing reinvention as a modern British metropolis.

Named after a play by Corpus Christi College fellow Christopher Marlowe, one of the university's most celebrated

alumni, the 155-room Tamburlaine hotel, located in the new CB1 development a stone’s throw from the city’s main

train station, opened in Spring 2017. Tamburlaine was the U.K. hospitality debut of Irish O’Callaghan group, best

known for its stylish Dublin hotels, including the excellent Stephen's Green Hotel.

Tamburlaine’s opening ended a long-running buzz of speculation surrounding what promised to be the

unveiling of Cambridge's most exciting hospitality project for years, and somewhat unsurprisingly the hotel has

been met with much applause. Not least, the communal areas of the hotel - each designed to have their own

identity by Shoreditch-based Bryan O’Sullivan Studio - have proved to be immensely popular. The dramatic

double-height lobby is bright, playful and colourful, with quirky modern chandeliers hanging from the ceilings and

rich parquet flooring underfoot. It is overlooked by an elegant library, its cosy atmosphere induced by gently sagging

bookshelves, timber panelled walls and super comfy furniture just begging to be sat in.

In a further nod to the distinct culture and history of its location, guest rooms come in three scholarly

accommodation categories: Fresher rooms boast floor-to-ceiling windows; Some of the Scholar rooms on the

upper floors have private balconies; and the three-bedroomed Dean suites on the top floors offer panoramic vistas

across the city and surrounding countryside. Yet despite their size and price differentials, all guest rooms are

furnished in the hotel's ubiquitous traditional-yet-contemporary design ethic featuring bespoke furniture, wood

panelling, polished concrete surfaces and patterned velvets, all offset by a soothing Cambridge Blue colour scheme.

But if all the calming blues get a little too much, there are a host of dining and drinking options downstairs to liven

even the most exhausted of travellers, including a bustling bar and restaurant – where a dramatic carved marble

bar takes centre stage in the large and elegant Brasserie-style dining room - which draws a crowd from early

morning until the wee hours. Here the simple seasonal menu is laden with tasty dishes prepared using locally

sourced ingredients courtesy of award-winning chef, Alan Dann.

www.thetamburlaine.co.uk


The Ultimate Mountain Villa Retreat

Starting USD 2000

plus taxes per night

Immerse in the fresh air and quiet beauty of the mountain with a stay in Alila Jabal Akhdar’s most spacious and private havens

– the magnificent Jabal Villas. Just imagine…361 sqm of indoor and outdoor space with all the luxurious comforts of home, the

perks of a private pool, jacuzzi, steam room, and a personal butler at your beck and call. Indulge in our exclusive Jabal Villa package

featuring a host of complimentary food and beverage, spa privileges, and activities for the whole family, in one truly great escape.

Package Inclusions:

Return airport transfers from Muscat

Unlimited food during the stay (including in-room service)

Complimentary beverages replenished daily in MY BAR

Selected beverages during dinner

Four 90 minute spa treatments during the stay

One Alila experience - “The Village Walk”

Alila hospitalities with our compliments

Morning yoga classes based on weekly schedule

Alila Living bath amenities

Access to PLAY Alila kids’ club

Access to Wi-Fi in rooms and public areas

Terms & Conditions:

Valid until 30th September 2017

Minimum 2-night stay

Maximum occupancy, 4 adults and 2 children below 12 years

Spa treatment, prior reservation is required

Rates are subject to 17% taxes and service charge

Transfer with our compliments

Accessible by 4-wheel drive only

Maximum 4 adults including 3 pieces of luggage are permitted in one car

Extra charges are applicable for 2nd car (if required)

#AlilaJabalAkhdar

@alilajabalakhdar

752 GOURAUD STREET • SAIFI VILLAGE • BEIRUT • LEBANON • +961 76 99 76 76 • INFO@GILTBEIRUT.COM • WWW.GILTBEIRUT.COM

PLACENCIA, BELIZE

ITZ’ANA RESORT

Located in southern Belize (formerly British Honduras) on the eastern coast of Central America, about a two hour

drive from the capital Belmopan, Placencia in the south of the nation is a gorgeous emerald peninsula with 16 miles

of sandy beaches. The Caribbean Sea lies to the east and the charming Placencia lagoon to the west, looking

towards the Maya Mountains on the mainland. Many cultured travellers visit Placencia during the months of April,

May and June to kayak, snorkel, saltwater fly fish, and swim and dive with giant whale sharks at the Gladden Spit

Marine Reserve. There’s also a very popular annual lobster fest. Whilst in colonial times Placencia was primarily a

fishing village, it has now become one of the Caribbean’s most popular beach paradise destinations.

Billed as “an ode to the great Caribbean estates of years past” and named after the Mayan god of day and night,

Itz'ana Resort & Residences, a 20-acre estate, recently opened in Placencia. Comprising 47 guest rooms plus 47

private residences, Itz’ana is designed around a traditional Great House, where guests gather for eating, imbibing,

socialising and relaxing. Here you’ll also find Limilia restaurant, which serves a sea-to-table inspired menu to

diners who look out across spectacular views of the Caribbean. Vegetables are sourced from Itz’ana’s own organic

farm, while the resort’s in-house fishermen catch fresh fish daily. The Great House is also home to the private Rum

Room, where a dedicated rum sommelier serves spirits from all over Latin America and the Caribbean. There’s also

a Hemingway-inspired library, a rooftop deck where sunrise yoga classes take place overlooking the sea, and a fully

equipped spa with a meditation room, a saltwater pool and five treatment rooms where locally sourced rainforest

botanicals are utilised for a wide range of bespoke rejuvenating treatments.

Designed by renowned architect Roberto de Oliveira Castro, rooms and suites feature vaulted ceilings, open

plans layouts, over-water decks, private pools and glorious views greeting guests at every turn. Whilst NYC-based

interior designer Samuel Amoia has mixed Central American patterns with a modern aesthetic to create an entirely

unique hospitality feel.

www.itzanabelize.com



TOKYO, JAPAN

MANDARIN ORIENTAL TOKYO

Floating 38 storeys above the ground, the Japanese capital's Mandarin Oriental is the perfect locale to get your bearings in a

city as chaotic as Tokyo. Housed within the sleek Cesar Pelli-designed Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower, located in the quiet and

relatively old Nihonbashi district (historically the heart of the capital), and boasting some of the best views across the

sprawling metropolis, your arrival via a super-fast elevator probably won’t prepare you for the spectacular. The check-in area

- all floor-to-ceiling plate-glass windows and brisk efficiency - has the sublime city skyline as its backdrop, and, on a clear

day, you can see Mount Fuji from your breakfast table. The hotel’s location is pretty much perfect, since it is both close to

busy Ginza, which is home to some of the city’s most upscale stores (including the fantastic Chanel boutique), and the

Mitsukoshi-Mae subway is in the basement and big stations such as Shibuya are just 20 minutes away.

Much like the city itself, Mandarin Oriental Tokyo marries contemporary chic with classic luxury, superlative service and

Japanese-themed design rather well. The hotel's 157 rooms and 21 suites are super tasteful abodes of predominantly

cherry-brown timber and black granite, with nature-inspired design themes prevailing via delicate leaf-motif fabrics created

by the textile designer Reiko Sudo, complemented by paper lanterns and bamboo walls. Guest rooms are also chock-a-block

with nifty utilitarian detailing and functionality, as you’d expect from a city as advanced as Tokyo. Think hallway-accessible

service closets into which invisible housekeepers deposit newspapers or freshly polished shoes, elegant kimonos hanging in

the wardrobes and waterfall-style showers tucked into semi-enclosed marble alcoves. Add to all this Japanese efficiency and

modernity a dozen (yes 12) different eateries, which range from a gastromolecular tapas bar to fine French dining and

authentic Cantonese fare, and you have the makings of a veritable hospitality heaven in the sky. Three of the hotel’s

restaurants are Michelin-starred, and whilst eight-cover Sushi Sora is a must (yes it has just 8 seats) and offers unparalleled

views of Tokyo Skytree, the pizzas on 38 th are possibly as good as you’ll find in New York.

www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo

AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS

SIR ALBERT

Set in a red brick 19 th century former diamond factory in

the heart of Amsterdam’s hip multicultural De Pipj

neighbourhood, hoteliers Liran Wizman and Bram van

der Hoek took the design hotel concept into new

territory when they came up with the concept for their

engaging and original Sir Albert Hotel.

In the minds of Wizman and van der Hoek, Sir Albert is

someone who personifies the qualities of old-fashioned

sophistication, and is an imaginary aristocratic type who

has thrown open his family mansion to friends and

family. Sir Albert is the sort of chatty but charming host

who would leave a post-it note on your bathroom mirror

and whose favourite artworks, trinkets, cabinets of

curiosities and mementoes are dotted about everywhere.

But Sir Albert's style is not retro – rather one of strong

shapes, clean lines and sombre colours (think black,

chocolate and fawn) and his approach to service and

luxury are modern and proper.

From the moment you walk into the hotel you’re

welcomed like old friends and offered a glass of

prosecco during the informal check-in before being

whisked to your lodgings by an amiable member of

staff. The sleek five-storey hotel has 90 rooms and

suites which combine cool contemporary styling with

dashes of opulence, perfect for those who see

themselves - as Sir Albert would say - as modern

aristocrats. All rooms are low-key but high-tech,

equipped with iPod docking stations, espresso makers,

and in all rooms from ‘deluxe’ level upwards, an iPad

that you may borrow and take around town during your

stay. Bathrooms are spacious and well appointed, with a

stylish bowl-shaped sink and rain showerhead over a

luxuriously long tub.

Downstairs there's a bijou but comfortable sitting area

called the Study, lined with shelves laden with books,

Italian scuffed leather chairs and a slate floor softened by

a Persian rug. The hotel’s wildly popular on-site Japanese

restaurant, IZAKAYA Asian Kitchen & Bar, is well designed

and something of a culinary hotspot in the city.

In a city which can often take itself a little too

artistically seriously when it comes to 5-star hotels, Sir

Albert is a very well located hybrid of new and old

Amsterdam, offering cosmopolitan hipness married with a

welcome amount of warmth and a fun sense of humour.

www.siralberthotel.com


PARIS, FRANCE

MAISON ALBAR HOTEL PARIS CÉLINE

In a city as beautiful as Paris - which is simply drenched in culture, fine dining and so much to see - one often

spends precious little time in your hotel room. But guests at Maison Albar Hotel Paris Céline would be forgiven for

not stepping out of the original headquarters of Céline, a lovingly restored 1866 classic Parisian townhouse

complete with Georges-Eugene Haussmann façade, concealing the über-modern luxe accommodation within.

Luxuriating in this stylish understated Parisian boutique hotel, with its contemporary edge and emphasis on local

character and attention to detail, essentially delivers several facets of Parisian life to your very guest room.

Paris Céline is the brainchild of fourth generation Albar family Céline Falco (née Albar) and her husband

Jean-Bernard; the couple having embraced the family motto of excellence in hospitality with a refined eye on design

and service. Thanks to their close collaboration with Alexandre Danan from EDO European Design Office, the

interiors ensure that what is a relatively petite hotel boasts plenty of big design features. With sixty rooms, a spa by

Cinq Mondes, an underground swimming pool with glass ceiling looking up to the Paris sky, and Odette restaurant

by the esteemed Rostang family, it’s easy to see why the Falcos are billing Paris Céline as their flagship property.

Guest rooms and suites and bedecked in velvet, wood, leather and brass, with an abundance of marble in the

bathrooms. All look out onto either the street in front or an internal courtyard, with the notable exception of the 1923

Room, a large space on the top floor that boasts 180-degree views of the city from its huge floor-to-ceiling windows.

If you do manage to drag yourself away from your luxurious lodgings and the hotel’s top-end on-site facilities,

Paris Céline is located in the city’s prime 1 st arrondissement, known for its historic buildings and extravagant

surroundings near Notre Dame, the Louvre and Les Halles, and just a few minutes from the Seine. And though the

luxury fashion house that led the way in haute couture has long since moved to other premises, the connection

with the world of fashion still remains, with the high-end boutiques of the Rue de Rivoli just a short stroll away

from this fashionable yet wonderfully welcoming hotel.

www.maison-albar-hotel-paris-celine.com


SOMETIMES, REALITY IS BETTER THAN IMAGINATION

reservation@chedimuscat.com

chedimuscat.com


SÃO PAULO, BRAZIL

PALÁCIO TANGARÁ

São Paulo-born landscape architect Roberto Burle

Marx's designs of parks and gardens made him world

famous. You can see Burle Marx’s work all over the

world, from Miami to Kuala Lumpur. The density of

the flora and botanicals combined with an inherent

jungle vibe make visitors and residents alike fall in

love with Burle Marx Park, a veritable oasis in the

centre of São Paulo's vibrant urban landscape,

located in a wealthy area surrounded by imposing

and unique buildings which frame the park.

Embraced by Burle Marx Park, prestigious Oetker

Collection’s newest hospitality masterpiece, Palácio

Tangará, which was unveiled to the world on 10 th

May 2017, provides an exclusive yet verdant escape

from the city that is still close enough to most

landmarks, such as the MASP Museum of Art and the

Jardins luxury shopping district.

Palácio Tangará was brought to life by architect

Patricia Anastassiadis, who drew inspiration from

Brazilian art and natural landscapes, together with

interior designer Bick Simonato. Together they deftly

blended the Germany-based Oetker Collection’s

refined European aesthetic with traditional Brazilian

elements, incorporating nods at every opportunity to

the lush landscapes that lie beyond the hotel’s walls.

The Grand Lobby is hung with works by artist Laura

Vinci which echo the same greenery found in Burle

Marx Park. The Burle Bar features photographs of the

Amazon rainforest by Cristian Cravo, Araquem

Alcantara and Alessandro Gruetzmacher. In Tangará

Jean-Georges - Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges

Vongerichten’s first restaurant in the Southern

Hemisphere - a green carpet imitates the bottom of

the lake and reflection of the forest on the water.

To further remind guests of the incredible

landscapes outside, the interior colour palette of the

each of the 82 guest rooms and 59 suites is blue,

beige, grey and green, with the focal point of each

being its private balcony or terrace where guests can

soak in the sweeping views of the city and park.

Meanwhile the hotel's Flora Spa has six treatment

rooms with experiences designed by Sisley-Paris, the

fitness centre has state-of-the-art equipment by

Technogym, a half-Olympic heated indoor pool and

an acclimatised outdoor 20-metre pool.

www.palaciotangara.com/eng

Live the holidays you’ve always dreamed of , under the shadow of Holy Mount

Athos, a UNESCO World Heritage Monument in Greece…

…welcome to Avaton Luxury Villas Resort!

Halkidiki, Greece

www.avaton.com

SEMINYAK, BALI

KATAMAMA

Katamama is little brother to seminal Seminyak favourite Potato Head Beach Club, known for its multi-cultural

blend of gastronomy, libations and entertainment that skilfully combines music, art and fashion in one inimitable

venue. Since PHBC has given visitors to the Indonesian island some of their most memorable and fun experiences

to date, you know you’re in safe hands at 57-room Katamama, a striking resort just 45-minutes drive from the

airport, located in the fashionable Petitenget district of Seminyak. Complete with on-site dining, beachfront access

and a multitude of vibrant bars and restaurants and funky shops and boutiques within a stone’s throw makes

Katamama perfectly positioned for those hedonists visiting Bali looking to experience the best the island’s party and

beach scenes have to offer.

Whilst every detail at Katamama has been handmade or handpicked using some of Indonesia's centuries-old

traditions, this is a hotel that isn’t afraid to make a statement. The striking brutalist red brick architecture sets the

contemporary-meets-traditional tone, whilst sartorial sophistication permeates the interior where mid-century

furniture, statement lighting, contemporary art and moody hues add good looking decorative clout to buzzing

cocktail bar The Akademi and rather excellent MoVida restaurant, all presided over by funky tablet-wielding servers.

Guest rooms are bedecked with denim rugs, brightly coloured weaves, edgy Indonesian artworks and retro

low-slung furniture. Whilst most of the accommodation doesn’t offer especially amazing views, all boast big

bathrooms with monsoon showers and soaking tubs, and cool cocktail bars stocked with fine infused spirits, natural

syrups and aromatic bitters. Book a Rooftop Suite for a decent view of the Indian Ocean, or a Pool Suite for a private

plunge pool. If you’re a pop star, wannabe DJ or both, the sprawling palatial 320m 2 Katamama Suite is a veritable

self-contained two-bedroomed party pad, complete with rooftop garden, giant Jacuzzi and outdoor shower.

www.katamama.com



NEW YORK, U.S.A.

THE WHITBY

Firmdale's much-anticipated second New

York property, The Whitby, opened a couple

of months ago, marking the eclectic hotel

brand’s second Manhattan location after

The Crosby opened in 2009.

Conceptualised and hand fashioned by

Kit Kemp - Firmdale's co-owner and chief

interior designer - The Whitby is located in

Midtown Manhattan on West 56 th Street at

5 th Avenue, just two blocks from Central

Park, allowing easy access to many of New

York's leading eateries, shops and

museums. Whilst obviously showcasing

Kemp’s quirky English eclecticism, The

Whitby feels a touch more adult in its

design, attitude and positioning, although

no less full of decorative flourishes and

fanciful touches incorporating fun twists,

with contemporary art and the lavish use of

bold patterns and characterful textiles again

forming part of the interior design palette.

The Whitby incorporates a private

state-of-the-art screening room with comfy

leather seating for 130 and advanced Dolby

Atmos sound and projection technology

including 3D capability. Meanwhile The

Whitby Bar & Restaurant is a rich, colourful

and airy high-ceilinged space, dominated by

a gorgeous 30-foot pewter bar and

beautifully upholstered banquette seating.

Upstairs 86 individually designed rooms and

suites in eleven categories spread over sixteen

floors all feature floor-to-ceiling windows and

handsomely designed bathrooms. Many also

boast private terraces – with outside space

being something of a rarity in central

Manhattan this is a huge attraction to visitors.

The hotel’s crowning glory is The Whitby

Suite which occupies the entire top floor and

boasts two king size bedrooms, two

oversized white marble bathrooms, a large

living cum dining room, guest powder room

and kitchen, plus two sweeping terraces

offering stunning views of New York from

different sides of the hotel.

www.firmdalehotels.com


MALDIVES

SONEVA JANI

It’s really a wonder that the Maldives hasn’t yet run out of islands upon which to build deluxe resorts! Founded by Sonu and

Eva Shivdasani - he a British-Indian businessman and she a former Swedish model - their first hotel, Soneva Fushi, opened

in 1995 and pioneered around-the-clock butler service, a strong environmental code and a determination to completely

disconnect visitors from the stresses of the outside world: On arrival guests are politely asked to remove their shoes which

are slipped into linen bags until they leave the island. Soneva Gili followed five years later showcasing the first overwater

villas in the Maldives. Unveiled in October 2016 – almost twenty-two years after opening their first Maldives resort – Soneva

Jani is the latest masterstroke from the Soneva team, a company which has skilfully redefined luxury vacationing for a new

affluent, seasoned and demanding generation of holidaymakers.

Soneva Jani consists of five little sand and palm-fringed islets, set in a spectacular kaleidoscopic lagoon in the Noonu

Atoll. Snaking off the biggest island - a former vegetable farm - is a 1.8km jetty connected to just two dozen palatial

overwater villas, each one bigger than some hotels. The largest can comfortably accommodate a family of ten. But whilst the

scale of the villas may be extraordinary, everything else about this resort is sophisticatedly understated, thanks in large part

to Eva, the interior design guru, who showcases beautiful yet functional Scandinavian restraint in all of Soneva Jani’s

individually designed villas. Each one light and bright with vaulted ceilings, bamboo floors and white rattan furniture, is a

lesson in how to execute luxury, functionality and style in absolutely perfect Maldivian unity. Think oval windows, portholes

in the floors revealing the marine life below, push-button retractable ceilings above the beds to unveil the starry night skies

above, and round sunken sofas littered with hand-dyed soft furnishings from Sri Lanka. Some villas even feature water

slides. Every detail has been carefully considered and lovingly executed, and it’s this level of attention and detailing which

make Soneva resorts so achingly beautiful and uniquely special.

www.soneva.com/soneva-jani

ROTTERDAM


DAWN GIBSON

EXPLORES HOLLAND’S

ARCHITECTURALLY

RICH PORT CITY

VIEW FROM EUROMAST TOWER

Do otted with some of the most head-turning

contemporary architecture in the world, Rotterdam

is a sublimely striking modern metropolis and one

of fED

Europe’s most distinctive cities. Re-invented as a matter

of necessity after the centre was almost completely

destroyed during WWII, the Netherlands’ strategically

positioned North Sea port, at the mouth of the Nieuwe

Maas, is an ever evolving tribute to the vision of future

thinking international architects, including renowned

Rotterdam-born Rem Koolhaas. The glittering blue

waterfront and wide well kept thoroughfares are flanked by

futuristic skyscrapers that compete to be noticed. Yet the

soaring creations of glass, steel and chrome are

interspersed at street level with a plethora of modern art

and sympathetic landscaping that keep the mood friendly

and human. And beyond the award-winning architecture,

numerous unique facets are contributing to the growing

reputation of the nation’s second city as a chic alternative

for cultured travellers, especially amongst those

international adventurers seeking something different to the

same old city break destinations.

While it will never rival Amsterdam’s reputation for

hedonism, Rotterdam has a more nuanced ability to delight

in a way that has found favour with an increasing number

of in-the-know visitors. As Europe’s largest cargo port it

seems a most unlikely contender for the latest hip,

happening and cultural destination. However, initial

impressions are often deceiving, just as much as for cities

as for people. Gaze beyond the bustling port known as the

“Dotted with some

of the most

head-turning

contemporary

architecture in the

world, Rotterdam is

a sublimely striking

modern metropolis

and one of

Europe’s most

distinctive cities ”

ERASMUSBRUG

‘Gateway to Europe’ and suddenly a multitude of

world-class art galleries and museums come into view,

within an easy stroll from charming streets bursting with

bohemian cafés and lively clubs.

Gourmands will relish the Michelin-starred establishments,

including two-star FG Restaurant, Parkheuvel and

Restaurant Fred, as well as one-star eateries Joelia, FG Food

Labs and Amarone. Well-informed foodie sources say it’s

only a matter of time before some more stars are sprinkled

about, which is a considerable achievement given that

Rotterdam is a relatively small city of just over 600,000. But

whilst the number of inhabitants may be small they

certainly know how to party, with a very full calendar of

festivals, exhibitions, cultural and sporting events, including

Koningsdag (King’s Day) in April and Europe’s second

biggest Caribbean carnival in July (www.en.rotterdam.info).

Within the cityscape itself plenty of surprises abound. Walk

the streets or jump on a water taxi and you will soon

discover that, while most of Rotterdam is bold and modern,

there are pockets of the old town waiting to be discovered

down quiet laneways and sleepy canals, telling snippets of a

fascinating maritime story that started when a little fishing

village sprung up beside a dam built in the Rotte River

around 1270. Elegant canal houses are not as ubiquitous as

in Amsterdam, but they are there if you care to look, as are

smart gingerbread and cream 19 th century mansions, the

status symbols of an era when some made their fortune on

the seas and others gathered on the nearby docks to


emigrate en masse, hoping that better luck was waiting for

them in the New World.

While yesteryear’s travellers would arrive and depart by

steamship, these days Rotterdam is well serviced by

numerous airlines flying into RTM airport as well as much

larger Schiphol, the latter providing the most choice in

terms of fares and flight times. From Schiphol take a fast

30-minute train ride to Rotterdam’s Centraal station - with

more than 80 trains daily it’s a faster option than the

45-minute drive. Rotterdam has a very efficient and

extensive public transport network well connected to RET

intercity and inter-country trains, so unless you’re planning

to drive out of the city you won’t need a hire car. A

three-day Rotterdam Welcome Card, providing unlimited

travel within the RET metro, tram and bus network, costs

EUR 20 and includes discounts at various attractions

silhouette of one of the 1990s most talked about buildings,

the Kunsthal, a glass-fronted gallery for contemporary art,

designed by Koolhaas. (www.kunsthal.nl/en). In case you

have any doubt about the building’s purpose, there is a

sculpture of a camel and his driver by Henk Visch perched

jauntily on the roof. In brilliant contrast, a short distance

across the road is the Koningin Emmaplein (Queen

Emmaplein), an enchanting semi-circle of

neo-Renaissance red brick mansions arranged around a

central square, built in the late 19 th century for the elite

business community. I am unsure if the stark juxtaposition

is by clever design or coincidence, but it seems as apt a

symbol of Rotterdam’s contrasting faces as any I come

across. To reach Euromast I cross Het Park - a calming

Central Park-style expanse of lush greenery and

established botanicals.

“Re-invented as a matter of necessity after the

centre was almost completely destroyed during

WWII, the Netherlands’ strategically positioned

North Sea port is an ever evolving tribute to the

vision of future thinking international architects ”

(www.rotterdamwelcomecard.com). Meanwhile get your

bearings before you leave home by downloading the free

Rotterdam Tourist Info app that incorporates an events

calendar and handy overview of the city’s Wi-Fi spots.

My first of a four-day visit is fresh and breezy, as I head out

from Hotel New York to walk to Euromast, an observation

tower that promises unrivalled panoramic views

(www.euromast.nl). My route takes me across the iconic

Erasmusbrug, an impressive steel suspension bridge that

links the north and south of the city across the Maas,

affectionally dubbed ‘The Swan’ by locals because of its

distinctive shape. Making sure to stay out of the path of the

dozens of speedy cyclists, I turn left onto the Westzeedijk,

a wide, soulless thoroughfare which skirts the border of the

Museumpark. Walking past, I easily spot the wide, low


Euromast was built in 1960 to an original height of 100

metres before being extended upwards to 185 a decade

later. When I visit the tower is on the verge of a two-week

closure for renovations, including a facelift to the restaurant

and a lick of paint to the exterior. I enjoy a divine lunch at

the restaurant while relishing the sweeping views of the city

beneath my feet. Afterwards I board a circular elevator that

slowly revolves, giving a 360° panorama of the city through

giant windows as it rises to the very top. It’s a wonderful

way to literally get a big picture – I could see all the way

back along the route I had just walked, to the Erasmus

Bridge and the three linked towers of the largest building in

the Netherlands, De Rotterdam (another Koolhaas design);

across the water to the former Chinatown precinct of

Katendrecht and moored ship SS Rotterdam. To cap it off,

after a slightly sullen start to the day, the sun breaks

RATHAUS

SUMMER CARNIVAL

CENTRAL STATION

EUROMAST PARK

WESTERSINGEL, ARTWORK ‘SYLVETTE’ BY PABLO PICASSO (1970)

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through the clouds just as I am

retrieving my camera from my bag,

giving the sky a photo-perfect soft wash

of blue like a watercolour painting.

As I explore further during the next few

days, I decide that walking is the most

enjoyable way to get around since there

is so much to see en route. The

Westersingel sculpture trail is a perfect

example. Start at Rotterdam Centraal –

a work of art in its own right with its

dramatic solar panel-clad roof – and

walk along the Westersingel canal

towards Westzeedijk. The route features

17 works from the city’s international

collection, including many by prominent

names such as Rodin, Carel Visser and

Joel Shapiro. The canal setting

complements the art well – the

sculptures seamlessly blending into the

urban landscape, providing much

welcome aesthetically beautiful


DELFSHAVEN

LAURENSKERK

MUSEUM ROTTERDAM

“While it will never rival

Amsterdam’s reputation for

hedonism, Rotterdam has a

more nuanced ability to

delight in a way that has

found favour with an

increasing number of

in-the-know visitors ”

distractions. The sculptures are very much a cultural

amuse-bouche, whetting one’s artistic appetite for the

sights within Museumpark at the southern end of

Westersingel. The park includes Museum Boijmans Van

Beuningen housing a world-class collection of Dutch and

European masterpieces (www.boijmans.nl/en), The New

Institute of architecture, fashion, design and e-culture, and

a rather good natural history museum

(www.cityguiderotterdam.com).

Once you have had your fill of museums, walk back to the

Westersingel and amble down the Witte de Withstraat, the

city’s artistic heart, lined with galleries, avante garde fashion

boutiques, hipster cafes, restaurants and bars. Immerse

yourself in new media art and underground films at


42

MARKTHAL

alternative cultural centre WORM (www.worm.org), or while

away an hour at the Witte de With Center for Contemporary

Art (www.wdw.nl/en/). The Witte de Withkwartier is a cool

place to find yourself as day turns to night, as it’s well

known for its vibrant pub, club and restaurant scene. Visit

Supermercado for feisty Latin American fare and chilled

tequilas (www.supermercadorotterdam.nl), Café LaBru for

relaxed drinks with friends

(www.facebook.com/pg/CafeLaBru) and underground

Wunderbar for quirky craft beers

(www.worm.org/venues/wunderbar/).

Another neighbourhood with an intriguing past and present

is the Laurenskwartier. The district is home to the only

building that survives from medieval times, Church of St.

Lawrence (Laurenskerk) built between 1449 and 1525,

which now stands proudly beside some of Rotterdam’s most

cutting-edge contemporary structures, including Piet

Blom’s famous Cube Houses, and one of the city’s newest

landmarks, MVRDV’s spectacular Markthal, a space-age

horseshoe of apartments looped over a covered market hall

(www.markthal.nl/en). Step inside Markthal’s enormous

entrance arch and be prepared to be parted from your Euros.

The interior is a gastronomic wonderland of colours, smells

and textures, with stalls offering a boggling variety of

processed meats, pyramids of yellow, crimson and smoky

brown spices, fresh seafood laid out on beds of ice, and, of

course, dozens of varieties of cheese. One of the more

unusual items I spotted was a shiitake mushroom growing

kit – a curious, pale brown stump that looked like it was

missing a goblin atop it! I eventually settled on some

handmade chocolates and rounds of Edam cheese on the

basis that they would be easier to get home. Buoyed with

my purchases I caught a metro across town to explore an

entirely different pocket of Rotterdam, and one that I had

been relishing visiting since I first hearing of it: Delfshaven.

Like Laurenskerk, Delfshaven is one of the jewels of the old

city that miraculously survived the 1940 bombardment. A

short walk from the river near Euromast, it may as well be

in another world to the busy streets surrounding it. Stroll

along Delfshaven’s herringbone-paved lanes alongside the

canal, and the sounds of cars and trams fade into the

distance, replaced by the tinkle of bicycle bells and the soft

chatter of old friends sitting outside cafés. Old-fashioned

street lamps line the waterfront, and it is so quiet that I can

hear a church bell chime the hour as I walk along admiring

the boats moored in the little marina. Dating back to 1389,

Delfshaven has a wonderfully rich history: it was the

departure point for the Pilgrim Fathers on their journey to

the Americas and the birthplace of Dutch maritime hero

Piet Hein. Previously home to herring fishermen and gin

distillers, the tall, handsome canal houses are now used as

art studios, antique stores, gin bars and beer breweries. I

stop for a drink at one of the pocket-sized pubs and then

wander back outside, where the light of the afternoon is

fading swiftly into evening shadows. A pair of ducks is

waddling around near a parked bicycle on the other side of

the street. They look like a good subject for a photo, so I

bring out my camera and walk slowly towards them,

hoping I can get close enough. But, despite my best efforts,

they see me – and to my surprise, instead of shuffling

away, they move closer to pose cheekily for the camera,

entirely unafraid and clearly enjoying the attention. I get

my picture and wander back along the canal front, where

the lights of the lamps and the houses create a fairylike

glow over the water. Walking to a nearby street to catch a

tram back to my hotel is a rushed jolt back to the present,

full of urban noise and bright glaring neon. The tram rattles

down the track and through the window I see once again

the sleek shapes of new offices and apartments climbing

into the evening sky, more cranes on the horizon, the

epitome of an up-to-the-minute hub. However it is the

glimpses of the city’s multi-layered past, the ghosts of

seafarers and fishermen, merchants and pilgrims, which

give Rotterdam its charismatic heart. Old and new,

side-by-side, seamlessly fused in one dynamic, innovative,

constantly moving city – this is the uniqueness, energy

and essence of Rotterdam.

ALSTERARKADEN

“Walk the streets or jump on

a water taxi and you will

soon discover that, while

most of Rotterdam is bold

and modern, there are

pockets of the old town

waiting to be discovered

down quiet laneways and

sleepy canals ”


STAY

HOTEL NEW YORK

While numerous hotels around the globe are promoted as iconic

landmarks, the Hotel New York has a far more compelling claim than most.

The former headquarters of the Holland America Line, this grand old

maritime lady is steeped in history, from its boardrooms and now luxurious

master suites, to the original art deco furnishings and spectacular wrought

iron central staircase. Presiding regally over the end of Wilhelmina Pier

since 1901, the building was the departure point for hundreds of

thousands of emigrants leaving the Old World for America in the dawning

decades of the 20 th century. Reincarnated as a hotel in 1993, the property

is now part of Dutch hospitality group WestCord Hotels.

Hotel New York is located on the south side of Erasmus Bridge, 15 minutes

by train or taxi from Rotterdam’s Centraal station. One of its most

charming selling points is the sheer variety in its 72 rooms, many of which

overlook the Maas. Not least there are dual aspect corner rooms and two

quirky tower rooms with spiral staircases leading to the roof. The Cultured

Traveller stayed in one of the spacious 53m 2 boardroom suites on the first

floor, of which there are only two. Big picture windows set into curved

wood-panelled walls look over the river, and a large oval bath is set in front

of the windows so you can watch the boats as you soak. It is a slightly

strange experience, especially given that you may be bathing where the

chairman of the board once dictated his letters. The décor is reminiscent of

an old-fashioned gentlemen’s club - all deep purple velvet furnishings and

art deco lamps, even a grand open fireplace, lit upon request. The absence

of a mini-bar is more than compensated by attentive room service

delivered by genuinely friendly and highly professional staff. I had several

chats with doorman Arie, who initially came to deliver a glass of red and

light the fire. For those who crave opulence but are not keen on purple

velvet, the second boardroom in a more subdued palette of white and

cream is a less dramatic choice.

Since the hotel is popular with both locals and visitors alike, the ground

floor café-restaurant is usually busy from early morning until late at night,

especially on the weekends, serving buffet breakfasts, à la carte lunches

and dinners and afternoon teas of sinfully delicious cream cakes. There’s

also an oyster counter and a long pub-style bar. For a more intimate

backdrop head downstairs to the recently opened NY Basement for

contemporary European cuisine and inventive handcrafted cocktails plus a

side order of live jazz. Conveniently Hotel New York also boasts its own

water taxi station directly outside.

With walls that could tell a thousand stories and a historic past deeply

ingrained into the building’s very structure, dropping anchor at Hotel New

York is undoubtedly a highly memorable stay experience. Part oversized

boutique hotel and part antique treasure, this classy old lady is looking

exquisitely good for her years.

www.hotelnewyork.com



STAY

ROTTERDAM MARRIOTT HOTEL

Its prime downtown location and generously sized rooms are the main

attractions of the Marriott, which confidently bills itself as Rotterdam’s

leading hotel. Situated directly opposite the main train station, the hotel

occupies the first 15 floors of a glass and steel tower that is entirely in tune

with the vibrant, up-to-the-minute streetscape of one of Europe’s

trendiest ports.

The hotel has undergone extensive interior redesign works since it was

rebranded a Marriott just over a year ago. Many of the 230 guest rooms and

suites have been redecorated in a sophisticated colour palette of delicate

cream, biscuit brown and soft grey, and kitted out with furniture that nods

to the city’s obsession with sleek and cool design. Rooms range from 30m 2

for a superior room (which is fairly large considering it is prime city centre

locale), to a sumptuous Presidential Suite featuring separate living and

dining rooms and all the usual mod cons you’d expect from a top-end

Dutch hospitality entertaining pad. Whilst executive rooms and suites

include Illy espresso machines, complimentary breakfast and access to an

exclusive 10th floor lounge, it’s the views that really set the Rotterdam

Marriott Hotel apart. Many rooms offer amazing vistas, giving guests a

bird’s eye view of some of the most cutting-edge architecture on the planet.

The Cultured Traveller stayed in a newly redecorated corner suite on the

twelfth floor with giant sound-proofed windows on two sides, providing a

sweeping panorama of the city. Sitting on a cushioned window seat, one

could watch commuters scurrying along like ants on the bustling

Westersingel below. Directly opposite the hotel is Calypso, a 22-floor luxury

apartment complex with bright red accents, designed by British architect

Will Alsop to appear as if it is floating. As day turned to night, and the

towers lit up all the way to the Erasmus Bridge in the distance, it all became

a somewhat mesmerising spectacle.

The hotel has two distinct F&B offerings: the Breakfast Brasserie which is an

expansive space overlooking the hotel front and the station, and Pillars Bar &

Restaurant, an all-day dining venue offering a diverse menu of international

fare, just off the ground floor lobby. It’s worth booking at least one evening

meal at Pillars to experience the three-course chef’s menu, which during my

visit featured halibut ceviche, slow-cooked beef with beech mushrooms and

pumpkin cream, and, to finish, an utterly divine pyramid of pear parfait with

hazelnut foam. All for a rather reasonable EUR 34.50. As one would expect

this was, of course, complemented by an extensive wine list as well as

several varieties of local craft beers and a range of gins.

If you’re looking for a contemporary, well-appointed inner city base,

Rotterdam Marriott Hotel ticks all the right boxes and much more. Efficient

and comfortable, and offering just the right mix of sophistication and service,

make this particular property the perfect counterbalance to a boutique hotel

for a two-centre stay within Holland’s charismatic port city.

www.marriottrotterdam.com

SEE

MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN

If you are going to visit just one gallery in Rotterdam,

Boijmans and Kunsthal are the top two contenders. One

of the Netherlands’ oldest museums, its collection is built

on the legacy of jurist Frans Jacob Otto Boijmans, who

left his personal collection to the city in 1849. In 1958 the

name of benefactor Daniël George van Beuningen was

added to the museum after the acquisition of his

collection, which now includes a swathe of Dutch and

European masterpieces spanning the Middle Ages to the

present day, including works by Rembrandt, Van Gogh,

Bosch, Bruegel, Dali and Munch. Intimate galleries and

large salons unusually allow a large proportion of

Boijmans’ art to be viewed in natural light.

www.boijmans.nl

KUNSTHAL

More cultural centre than museum and heralded by

many as an icon of modern architecture, the Kunsthal

was unveiled to the public in 1992 and has set tongues

wagging ever since. Designed by Rotterdam’s most

famous architect, Rem Koolhaas, with project architect

Fuminori Hoshino from Rotterdam company OMA, the

building won huge international acclaim for its

innovative design and use of materials. It appears at first

glance to be a fairly unimpressive large flat box, but upon

closer inspection every façade is different. Inside, seven

exhibition spaces host continually changing temporary

displays of new wave design, fashion, photography,

digital art and modern masterpieces, with several

cutting-edge exhibitions often on display at the same

time. www.kunsthal.nl

MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN

SS ROTTERDAM

The former flagship of the Holland America Line, SS

Rotterdam is now permanently moored in its homeport

as a novel hotel, dining venue and floating party palace.

In its 1960s heyday, the 228-metre former ocean liner

was a familiar sight on the Atlantic as it powered

between Rotterdam and New York laden with

well-heeled passengers. These days you can imagine

yourself back in the romantic age of steam while sipping

a cocktail on the terrace and gazing out across the city,

lingering over lunch at The Lido or the Club Room, or

spending the night in one of the ship’s 254 hotel rooms.

You can also take a tour of the bow, bridge and engine

rooms. ‘La Grande Dame’ as SS Rotterdam is


KUNSTHAL

SS ROTTERDAM

affectionately known, is located at the tip of the

Katendrecht peninsula.

www.ssrotterdam.com

SPIDO CRUISES

It would be a shame to visit such a historic port and not

see the sights from the water. The sleek fleet of Spido

vessels run a range of cruises most days of the year,

departing from the base of Erasmus Bridge. A 75-minute

harbour tour is enough to see Rotterdam's impressive

skyline with its imposing buildings, together with the

harbour’s shipyards and docks. Better still buy a hop-on

hop-off bus and Spido boat ticket to make best use of

both transport modes for a full day (www.spido.nl). For a

cruising experience with a culinary edge, take to the

Maas on “The Pancake Boat” whilst munching on all the

pancakes you can eat laden with a variety of scrummy

toppings. www.pannenkoekenboot.nl

CUBE HOUSES

Along with Erasmus Bridge and the city’s skyline, the

Cube Houses are one of the most recognised symbols of

Rotterdam. Designed by Dutch architect Piet Blom, at first

glance they appear to be completely unliveable, but step

inside the fully furnished Kijk-Kubus (Show-Cube), and

you will soon discover how it’s possible to reside in such

an unusual dwelling. Each house represents a tree with

the whole development designed to symbolise a

woodland. In Dutch the area is called ‘Blaakse Bos’ which

literally translates to Blaakse Wood. The Cube Houses

border the Laurenskwartier district and waterfront area,

within easy walking distance of the Markthal, Oude

Haven and the Laurenskerk. www.en.rotterdam.info

INTERNATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

CRUISING SPIDO

LAURENSKERK

Built on the banks of the River Rotte between 1449 and

1525, Grote of Sint-Laurenskerk (or Church of St.

Lawrence) is literally the only building to have survived

from the medieval city centre and is a potent emblem of

the community’s ability to endure. Heavily damaged

during the bombing of Rotterdam in WWII, the building

underwent extensive repair work and now stands in

marked contrast to the modern architecture that

surrounds it. Along with regular services and an

interesting permanent exhibition, the church hosts

concerts, tours, exhibitions and receptions, and you can

climb the 65-metre tower on Wednesdays and Saturdays

from April through October.

www.laurenskerkrotterdam.nl


CUBE HOUSES

AMARONE

TASTE

AMARONE

For superb contemporary French cuisine that tastes as good as it looks, Amarone is hard to beat. Situated on one of

Rotterdam’s most stylish streets, the restaurant had been open just 15 months when it was awarded a Michelin star. This

reflected the commitment of owner-chef Gert Blom and his tight-knit team, to the creation of innovative dishes using

quality ingredients prepared to a consistently high standard. A decade later sees Amarone continue to glean regular

widespread praise. Elegant, sophisticated and decorated in a palette of neutral colours, the restaurant houses a walk-in

wine room of more than 500 different vintages. Highly recommended is the truffle risotto, a creamy concoction of simple

goodness that will have you yearning for more. The three-course lunch menu is good value at EUR 37.50.

www.restaurantamarone.nl

PARKHEUVEL

Considered one of the best restaurants in the Netherlands, Parkheuvel is known for its two Michelin stars and beautiful

setting at the front of Het Park, near Euromast, with gorgeous views over the Nieuwe Maas and Rotterdam Harbour. The

restaurant is housed in a modern pavilion, built in 1988, with an art deco interior that boasts river views from every table.


PARKHEUVEL

There is also an outdoor terrace, naturally with views, which is the place to dine during the warmer months. Chef Erik van

Loo, who runs the restaurant with his wife Anja, is famous for his innovative take on classic mostly French-based dishes.

Signatures include chicken ravioli with langoustines and oysters with salsify, potato rosti and Perle Imperial caviar.

www.parkheuvel.nl

FG

If you’re a fan of the Heston Blumenthal school of cooking then FG will be right up your culinary street. Head chef Francois

Geurds was formerly a sous chef at The Fat Duck, Blumenthal’s temple to molecular cuisine. Guerds’ flagship restaurant FG,

has earned two Michelin stars, whilst its sibling, FG Food Labs, has one star. A visit to a Geurds establishment is a veritable fine

dining adventure, with dishes prepared using liquid nitrogen, presented in an unusual fashion and featuring the marriage of

ingredients you never thought you’d see on the same plate. There’s a ‘fragrance table’ in the kitchen, and guests in the private

dining room sit under an inverted garden of plants hanging from the ceiling. Set menus range from a EUR 45 three-course

lunch to a EUR 185 eight-course dégustation experience. www.fgrestaurant.nl/en

FG

NY BASEMENT

With a fabulous long cocktail bar and décor inspired by pre-war Manhattan, NY Basement is a novel recent addition to

Rotterdam’s restaurant scene that looks like it should feature in The Great Gatsby. Downstairs from the main restaurant at the

historic Hotel New York at the end of Wilhelmina Pier, NY Basement features a buzzing open kitchen, cosy banquette seating

and salmon-hued walls adorned with black and white photos of musical greats. Live jazz features regularly so it’s wise to

check with the hotel if you want to catch an act. From the modern European menu we recommend the juicy grilled sirloin and

terrifically tart lemon pie, but don’t leave without ordering at least one cocktail: TCT’s pick is the strong but fruity Angels &

Tongues made with Dutch spirits, vermouth, apple thyme cordial and grapefruit bitters. Did we mention that it’s strong?

www.nybasement.nl

JOELIA

With an airy feel and lustrous contemporary décor, Joelia is the gastronomic equivalent to Rotterdam’s cutting-edge office

towers. Based on the Coolsingel side of the Hilton hotel, with views over the city centre, it is a perfect spot to unwind at the end

of a long day working or sight-seeing over a selection of dishes by renowned chef Mario Ridder, washed down with an

JOELIA

POFFERTJES

excellent glass of wine or two. The menu at the Michelin-starred eatery is eclectic and intriguing, featuring French themed fare

with a twist, divided into sections entitled ‘culinary trip’, ‘Mario’s favorites’ and ‘all the way’. To give you a taste, the hedonistic

‘all the way’ features crab and caviar, lobster, wagyu beef and vanilla soufflé with blood orange. Diners can also indulge in a six

or eight-course ‘culinary trip’ menu. www.joelia.eu

POFFERTJESSALON SETH

It might be a mouthful to pronounce for those of us who don’t speak Dutch, but all you really need to know is that

Poffertjessalon Seth makes delicious, traditional little Dutch pancakes. Made according to the secret Seth family recipe, the

pancakes are typically presented as a simple dish with powdered sugar and butter, though you can opt for added extras such

as raisins, fruit, whipped cream or liquor. The authentic décor adds to the experience – think wooden benches, bright Brabant

curtains, Tiffany lamps and Anton Pieck paintings. Located opposite Markthal on Hoogstraat, this is the ideal place to pit stop

for some tasty nosh after some serious shopping. It’s worth knowing that you can use a Rotterdam Welcome Card for a 50%

discount on Poffertjessalon Seth’s pancakes. www.poffertjessalonseth.nl


SIP

DE WITTE AAP

Witte de Withkwartier is the vibrant heart of the

Rotterdam art scene and is renowned for some of

the most dynamic nightlife in the city. At its heart,

for many years, has been the famous White

Monkey, one of the most popular pubs in

Rotterdam. This fairly cosy bar on Witte de

Withstraat is usually filled to the rafters with locals,

especially during summer, and a bohemian crowd

is regularly seen spilling out onto its terrace. De

Witte Aap is known for its friendly service and a

great soundtrack – there’s live music on

Wednesdays and DJs on Saturdays – and is a

reliable place to start a night on the tiles with a

Dutch beer or two. www.facebook.com/dewitteaap

BALLROOM

Still on Witte de Withstraat, one of the newest

editions to the street is the trendy Ballroom gin and

tonic bar. Stocking more than 160 types of gin –

which the establishment claims is the biggest

collection in Europe – there’s something for every

lover of the famous tipple, ranging in flavour from

fresh to sweet, herby to spicy and floral to citrus.

There’s also a reasonable selection of nibbles to

accompany your sipping on the terrace, at the bar

or in the secret garden. Try the Bitterballen – a

traditional Dutch meat-based snack – or the

Ballplate selection. A resident DJ lays down funk,

soul and groove on Friday and Saturday nights.

www.ballroomrotterdam.nl

DE WITTE APP

THE STIRR

Labelled by The Lonely Planet as arguably the best

cocktail house in the country, this little gem of a

speakeasy cum living room cum cocktail bar is well

worth the trouble of searching out. Located off

Eendrachtweg, parallel to Westersingel, The Stirr was

the brainchild of four local bartenders who realised

their dream with the proceeds of a crowd-funding

campaign. The ambience is hipster chic – think

exposed brick walls, moustaches and a laid-back

attitude – while the cocktails are deliciously bespoke.

The owners create their own recipes, not just for the

cocktails but also for the base syrups used in the

cocktails, and they will happily mix you a special drink

based on your mood and tastes. www.thestirr.nl

THE STIRR


BALLROOM

THE VIP ROOM

THE SUICIDE CLUB

Rooftop bars are having a moment – when aren’t

they, frankly? – and The Suicide Club is Rotterdam’s

nod to this trend. Located right in the centre,

opposite Rotterdam Centraal, this is the perfect

setting to appreciate the city’s funky architecture

while sipping a chilled cocktail on a balmy summer

night. The list includes a good mix of originals and

re-invented classics – we dare you to try ‘Sky Is The

Limit’, a heady mix of vodka, sambuca, dark

chocolate and blood orange, or the fabulously

named ‘Unicorn & Lions’, a gin-based cocktail with

velvet falernum (a spiced sweet citrus syrup),

aperol and rhubarb. There are also sharing nibbles

that are a definite cut above bar food, including

oysters served with watermelon salsa, and

dumplings with beef and escargot.

www.thesuicideclub.nl

THE VIP ROOM

With the slogan of a ‘no frills club in a no nonsense

city’ The VIP Room on Stadhuisplein, just off the

Coolsingel, is an old-school style club lounge that

attracts a fair number of Rotterdam’s party people

on any given night. Washed with violet lighting, the

décor of the multi-levelled main floor area nods to

the Orient with Buddha statues and lantern style

lighting, and there’s usually a solid line-up of Dutch

and special guest DJs keeping the place pumping

and energy levels up. There’s also a terrace that

pays homage to Nikki Beach style al fresco clubs.

Weekends are naturally the busiest, but The VIP

Room is also very popular for its chic Monday night

gatherings. www.theviproom.eu

THE SUICIDE CLUB

BAR TENDER

The first shooter bar in Rotterdam, Bar Tender offers

a dizzying array of 200 different shots to help you

get your night started with a bang. It’s a cosy little

place, with a luminous bar and a cheery interior

and colourful paintings adorning the walls. During

the week Bar Tender is fairly laid back, but on the

weekends the shot kings love to put on a show with

fiery extravaganzas that literally light up the bar.

Get your lips around a Bazooka or a Harry Potter –

or TCT’s favourite for its dramatic appeal, the classic

Flaming Lamborghini. Bar Tender is on the

Coolsingel, near the junction with Aert van

Nesstraat. www.bar-tender.nl

BAR TENDER


MAYFAIR

CHIC

M E E T S

EAST

LONDON

STYLE

London’s newest and most glamourous hotel lies within the Devonshire Club – London’s refreshingly

distinctive Private Members’ Club.

Book directly with us and mention The Cultured Traveller to receive our lowest available rate. T&Cs apply.

Contact stay@devonshire.club or 0203 750 4545 for enquiries and bookings.

4+5 DEVONSHIRE SQUARE, LONDON, EC2M 4YD INFO@DEVONSHIRE.CLUB +44 (0)20 3750 4545

MARKTHAL

DEPOT ROTTERDAM

SPEND

MARKTHAL

One of Rotterdam’s newest architectural landmarks, Markthal is hard to miss, and equally hard to escape from once you find

yourself mesmerized by the bounty of gourmet treasures inside. Designed by MVRDV and opened in 2014, the innovative

covered market hall houses an eclectic collection of stalls, selling everything from fresh and packaged foodstuffs, gourmet

cheeses and meats, to handcrafted truffles and chocolates. It’s a perfect place to pick up gifts. If you’re interested in the foodie

scene, it is also worth checking out the much smaller but very well regarded Fenix Food Factory, an artisanal food market in a

former warehouse on the Katendrecht peninsula. www.markthal.nl/en

DE BIJENKORF

As the Netherlands’ leading luxury department store brand, De Bijenkorf has been catering to well-heeled Dutch shoppers

since 1870. Founded as a humble haberdashery, De Bijenkorf has for many years operated flagship stores in Rotterdam,

Amsterdam and The Hague. The Rotterdam store, in front of the Beurs-World Trade Center on the Coolsingel, is the place to go

in the port city for designer items by the likes of Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Hermès. It’s worth noting that shoppers who spend

EUR 50 or more can get a tax refund. www.debijenkorf.nl

VAN OLDENBARNEVELTSTRAAT

Not far from De Bijenkorf in the Cool district, Van Oldenbarneveltstraat is a street where French designer chic meets Dutch style

to create an intriguing shopping environment of cutting edge fashion and texture-filled interior boutiques, smart slow food

eateries and upmarket beauty stores where you can easily lose yourself for a happy couple of hours. Combine a trip to Van

Oldenbarneveltstraat with a wander down the nearby Westersingel sculpture route for a dose of retail therapy and a helping of

culture in the same afternoon. www.oldenbarneveltstraatrotterdam.nl


MARGREETH OLSTHOORN

MEENT

Jutting off from the main thoroughfare of Coolsingel, Meent is one of the city’s most upmarket shopping streets, featuring small

specialty boutiques and gift stores alongside upmarket bars and relaxed cafés. Worth looking into are SuperTrash (85a) for its

super-girlie vibe, Zola and Zola Male (60 and 73a) for hip casualwear and the Shoeclub (98) for a wide variety of funky

footwear and the latest leather bags. If you need a pick-me-up during your retail therapy session, the expansive corner wine

bar 1NUL8 on the corner of Meent serves great coffee and an extensive list of tipples including a rather good G&T!

(www.facebook.com/1nul8). www.cityguiderotterdam.com

MARGREETH OLSTHOORN

A little avant-garde and a touch punk, this is the kind of store, which you will be telling friends about for months after you visit.

Margreeth Olsthoorn is well known among Rotterdam’s fashionistas for its cutting edge contemporary designer collections, by

labels such as Maison Martin Margiela, Henrik Vibskov, Masnada, Leon Louis, Acne and Avelon, as well as upcoming labels

such as local jewellery brand The Boyscouts. Slick, stylish and very urban, the store is on Schiedamsedijk, near the Maritime

Museum. www.shop.margreetholsthoorn.nl

DEPOT ROTTERDAM

If you have been inspired by the style of the city and want to take a little piece of it home with you, then Depot Rotterdam is

the place to go. A design consultancy, studio and shop for everything related to the home, leaning towards functional but fun

and contemporary style, Depot Rotterdam showcases pieces by well-known interior designers as well as up-and-coming

names. It’s also a great place for gifts. Depot Rotterdam is on the Pannekoekstraat, a short stroll from Markthal and the

Laurenskerk. www.depotrotterdam.nl


Presidential Suite

The Saxon, Johannesburg

As South Africa’s second largest city and capital of Gauteng province,

Johannesburg began as a 19 th century gold-mining settlement and

from such humble beginnings is now described as Africa's economic

powerhouse, and the centre of a large-scale gold and diamond trade.

Although Jozi (as some affectionately refer to the city) is not South Africa’s capital,

it has a remarkable history and a vibrant energy that one would expect from one

of the world’s most renowned metropolitan hubs. Quite simply, Jo’burg feels and

acts like a capital city and hence is developing at an incredibly rapid rate.

Located at 6,000 feet above sea level, striking views, from various vantage

points, are in abundance all around Jo’burg. This is a city with a lot to offer

and one that is trying very hard to banish its former reputation as a

dangerous place to visit. There are still a few areas of Jo’burg where you most

definitely shouldn’t wander at night, but after visiting the city twice I can

honestly say I didn’t once feel threatened and found everyone to be incredibly

friendly and helpful. Boasting a wealth of immersive experiences to interest

even the most seasoned traveller - from the sobering reminders of the

country’s past to the present day buzz of the continent’s fast-paced financial

centre - it’s not hard to see why Jo’burg was once home to Nelson Mandela


and Desmond Tutu as well as countless celebrities of today.

Saxon Hotel, Villa and Spa is nestled in Sandhurst, one of Jo’burg’s most elite

suburbs. My Saxon experience begins literally as soon as I land at OR Tambo

International Airport, where I’m greeted by the friendliest of hosts who deftly

whisks me through passport control and into a humming private hotel car ready

and waiting. Just 30-minutes later we are gliding through Jo’burg’s most

sought-after residential neighbourhood, home to some of the country's wealthiest

residents. Whilst you can’t see their homes behind the gated walls lining the quiet

tree-lined streets it’s not difficult to imagine the grandness that lies beyond.

Gliding up the impressive driveway of the Saxon for the first time you soon see

the enormity of what was once a massive private residence, set in 10 acres of

magnificent landscaped gardens. This is truly a private and tranquil city retreat

like no other. From the minute I set foot in the opulent entrance hall I am

surrounded by exquisite and fascinating South African artworks, a theme which

continues throughout the property and is passion of the Saxon’s owner, Douw

Steyn, one of South Africa’s leading captains of commerce. I am told that only 11

carefully selected local artists were commissioned to create all the works that

decorate the Saxon, and South Africa’s first democratically elected president,

Nelson Mandela, resided at the Saxon for six months whilst his home was under

construction. It is within the walls of the Saxon that Mandela edited his

autobiography, ‘Long Walk to Freedom’, and the suite he occupied during his

stay at the hotel is now known as the Nelson Mandela Platinum Suite.

The Saxon has three separate villas located within its peaceful grounds, not far

from the main building. It is possible to book an entire villa for exclusive use,

perfect for those VIPs demanding ultimate privacy. Access to the villas is via a

striking glass-enclosed skywalk, elevated high above the driveway from the

main hotel completely surrounded by trees everywhere, creating a sense of calm

tranquility and ensuring guests’ privacy is maintained.

My home at the Saxon for the next three nights is 200m 2 Presidential Suite 310

within villa 3, set well away from the main hotel. I’m informed that seeing other

guests is something of a rarity when staying at the Saxon.

Entering via a pair of imposing double doors, Presidential Suite 310 is an

opulent, sprawling and tranquil space. Once through the entrance hall I was

greeted by an impressive open plan lounge and dining area that was both

inviting and magnificent. Beautifully decorated in a contemporary African style

of warm mushroom and deep brown tones, complimented by natural textures

including stone cladding and rich timbers in various shades, light bounced of

every surface as the sun streamed in via vast floor-to-ceiling windows and huge

balcony doors. The seating area boasted a mix of oversized chairs upholstered in

inviting warm brown tones and occasional tables of varying sizes, making it the

perfect place to relax, reflect and unwind. Like the rest of the Saxon, my suite

was brimming with exquisite and unusual South African adorning every wall

and alcove, including carvings, sculptures, paintings and statues. Not to mention

hundred of books in which to lose oneself for a few hours. A discreet butler’s

kitchen was tucked behind one wall of the lounge.

The luxe décor in the master bedroom continued the contemporary South

African feel with more artworks and differing textures. Warmly decorated in rich

beige and browns, wooden shutters and black out curtains ensured I slept like a

baby in the sumptuous king-sized four poster which was attired in the world’s

finest bed linens and came complete with a pillow menu. More comfy chairs and

coffee tables littered the bedroom together with a writing desk and separate

workstation. Two separate terraces – one each off the lounge and the bedroom –

were perfect for a morning cup of Earl Grey. It was then, in the crisp morning

South African sunshine, as my personal butler was unpacking my luggage, that I

realised how peaceful and utterly secluded my private outside spaces were.

With a noticeable lack of doors in favour of airy open plan styling, the suite

flowed beautifully from room to room, effortlessly instilling in me a sense of

calm and freedom. One wall - the width of the four-poster bed - separated the

bedroom from the decadent bathroom. Dominated by large square his and hers

sinks, an enormous free-standing soaking tub and a large stone-clad walk-in

shower room, the spa-like bathroom was laden with an abundance of luxury

natural and eco-friendly Africology products, fragranced with pure essential oils.

A smart touch screen panel on the night stand meant that I could control pretty

much everything within the suite from my bed. In short everything was on hand

to ensure that my stay was both memorable and hassle free.

At the outset Douw Steyn set out to create South Africa’s best hotel, and during

the next few days the Saxon’s attentive team certainly did their utmost to

make my stay unforgettable. Relaxing and soaking up the warm South

African sunshine while listening to the resident saxophonist was interspersed

with visits to the Saxon’s two world-class restaurants, Qunu and Luke Del

Roberts X, the latter presided over by one of South Africa's most celebrated

chefs synonymous with innovative gastronomic creations. I also took

traditional afternoon tea in the Piano Lounge and sipped rare single malts in

Eighteen05, the first Johnnie Walker whisky bar on the African continent.

Opened in 2015 and designed by the rainbow nation’s most celebrated

interior designer, Stephen Falcke, Eighteen05 is a glamorous and intimate


bar where guests are immersed in the history of the iconic whisky brand.

After so much indulgence there was just a little time left on my last day to visit

the Saxon’s in-house holistic spa. A serene oasis of peace and tranquility, nestled

within the heart of the hotel to a backdrop of gently cascading water features,

influences of copper and Himalayan salts feature in the wide range of treatments

on offer to rejuvenate one’s mind and body and promote a sense of vitality,

energy and balance. My therapist was incredibly knowledgeable and expertly

tailored my divine massage and rejuvenating La Prairie facial to suit my needs.

It’s obvious why Nelson Mandela, after 27 years in prison, spent his first night of

freedom at the Saxon. Quite apart from the luxurious accommodations,

sprawling suites and lush manicured grounds, no request is off limits and

nothing is too much trouble for the Saxon’s dedicated team. As the hotel

disappears into the distance as we drove away after my stay, I left with nothing

but fond memories of a luxurious soothing haven secretly hidden away in the

heart of one of the world’s most happening cities.

Judith Manson stayed in a ZAR 9,500/night one-bedroom

presidential suite at the Saxon in March 2017

www.saxon.co.za


HOTEL GRANDE

BRETAGNE HOLDALL

It wouldn’t be an understatement to say I’ve

road-tested dozens of holdalls. My last Louis

Vuitton Keepall 55 lasted a decade before

one of the handles came off, the zip broke

and LV refused to repair it citing its age as a

problem. I thought that was the whole point

of spending a four-figure sum on something

to carry your stuff around in, so when my

beautifully worn-in Keepall couldn’t be

repaired I decided to not to replace it

like-for-like. My current carry-on is a smart

dark brown and leather-trimmed holdall

produced by famous Hotel Grande Bretagne

in Athens, Greece. I especially like the outside

pocket that provides quick access to my

passport. Inside there’s bags of space, and

being so reasonably priced I

don’t guard it like a newborn baby.

EUR 265 www.grandebretagnestore.com

iPod CLASSIC 160GB

Until the recent advent of the

iPhone 7 Plus 256GB (which retails

at GBP 919) the only iPod which

could hold all of my music was a

Classic 160GB model which Apple

no longer makes. Mine still works

and I bought a spare on eBay. I

don’t get on a flight without it.

Approx GBP 250 on

www.ebay.co.uk

BOSE QUIETCOMFORT 20

ACOUSTIC NOISE CANCELLING

HEADPHONES

A quality pair of headphones is essential

when you travel regularly. Your ears need

looking after! Until recently I used to travel

with two pairs, but these nifty little numbers

now take care of all my aural needs both

in-flight and on terra firma. They are

especially good if you want to sleep in-flight

and just want to cancel out the aircraft noise,

since they sit inside the ear and don’t

interfere with your sleeping position.

USD 249.95 www.bose.com


A TRAVEL EDITOR’S

IN-FLIGHT ESSENTIALS

When you travel as much as I do, getting on a plane becomes as routine as

hopping in a taxi, and one soon works out what’s needed on board to ensure a

comfortable journey and perky arrival. I’m often asked “doesn’t it get tiresome, all

that travelling?” I can honestly say that with the exception of the painfully early

morning departures, and transiting airports which take two buses a train ride plus

a couple of Guantanamo-style security checks just to change planes, flying, for me

at least, is generally a pleasurable experience, since I’m as comfortable aboard a jet

as I am in the back of a London cab. I put this down to a variety of things, the most

important being that when I’m sitting inside a metal tube hurtling through the sky

at 500mph+ I’m almost always headed to a different country, sometimes

(although less so these days) a place I’ve never visited before. Of course these are

the most exciting adventures – visiting a new destination still excites me almost

three decades after I boarded my first flight. But what really eases the air travel

experience is having one’s creature comforts around you in-flight. Let’s be honest,

no matter how much you gild the lily, an airplane cabin is a pretty soulless space.

With the possible exception of one or two airlines’ on-board lounges (Qatar

Airways’ A380 upper deck lounge is rather special), no matter where you sit on a plane there is little around of visual stimulation.

So it is essential to travel with what you need, especially when flying long-haul. There’s nothing worse than embarking on an

overnight intercontinental flight, eating sleeping and waking in the same clothes, and arriving in an exciting new destination

feeling like you need to be fumigated. So here are the in-flight essentials I never traverse an airport or board a plane without.

Short of a candle to scent the air around me, this little selection generally ensures that I arrive at my destination in the best

possible condition, suitably entertained, rested, rejuvenated and ready for my next adventure.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

MUJI ORGANIC COTTON

LONG SLEEVE T-SHIRT

I always pack a brand new Muji long

sleeve t-shirt in my carry-on before a

long-haul flight so I can change into it

just before landing. At just a tenner each I

can afford to keep a stock so I’ve always

got a new one handy.

GBP 9.95 in-store only www.muji.com

LA ROCHE-POSAY WATER SPRAY 50ML

Your face goes from being a grape to a raisin in

about an hour on a plane so you need to keep it

hydrated. The low maintenance way is a hydrating

facial spray that delivers micro-droplets of pure

natural spring water directly to your skin. Evian’s is

good but La Roche-Posay’s is better because it has

softening and anti-oxidant properties. If you have

more time and money, apply a thin coat of

Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Masque (USD 43)

immediately after take-off. Use your water spray

regularly in-flight. Wash your face 30 minutes

before landing and apply Clinique Moisture Surge

Face Spray Thirsty Skin Relief (USD 24.50) just

before touch down. Your face will look fabulous

even if the rest of you is knackered!

GBP 4 www.boots.com

SUPERDRY ORANGE LABEL

SLIM LITE SWEATPANTS

You can’t sleep in your jeans on a long-haul

flight and most of the PJs handed out by

even the premium carriers are made of

low-grade fabrics nowadays. These Superdry

slim fit sweatpants are cuffed for cosiness

and have an adjustable drawstring waist and

ribbed sides making them super comfy to

lounge around an aircraft or nap in.

EUR 69.95 www.superdry.com

CARMEX LIP BALM TUBE 10g

Strangely the skin on your lips tends to be

the first and fastest to dry out in-flight, so

be sure to have at least one tried and

tested moisturising lip balm in your

carry-on. I swear by Carmex medicated lip

balm. Buy it in a little round jar or a

squeezable tube (my personal

preference). I find the sticks less effective.

GBP 2.69 www.boots.com

BODY SHOP

ELDERFLOWER

EYE GEL 15ml

This is the only eye treatment I have ever used. It

provides an instant uplift to wake and soothe the

eye area in-flight, and reduces the appearance of

puffiness after sleeping, leaving the delicate skin

around the eyes feeling soft and refreshed. I use

this day and night at home and when travelling.

GBP 8 www.thebodyshop.com

3M 1100 FOAM EARPLUGS

I find it amazing that some airlines no

longer have earplugs onboard, not even

for passengers in premium cabins, so

rather than chance it I always carry a

pair with me. Nothing fancy. These by

3M are made from soft hypoallergenic

PU foam material to provide maximum

comfort and low pressure inside the ear.

Whist their shape is tapered to fit the

ear canal comfortably, I use them back

to front for a tighter fit!

GBP 5 for 20 pairs www.amazon.co.uk


SMYTHSON MARA ZIP CURRENCY CASE

More of a travel wallet than anything else, whilst this is not an in-flight

wellbeing essential, it keeps me organised and I’ve not been apart from it

since it was gifted to me almost seven years ago. When travelling I’d be

lost without it. Mine is brown printed calf leather with four colour-coded

zip compartments for storing different currencies, SIM cards etc.

GBP 195 www.smythson.com

AU LIT TRAVEL PILLOW & EYE MASK

If you’re boarding a plane for anything more

than a 10-hour flight you’re going to need to get

some kip, but most pillows provided onboard are

just dreadful. A 100% Egyptian cotton satin

travel pillow filled with white goose down is a

portable luxury wherever you rest your head.

Coupled with a 100% silk eye mask and you’re

pretty much equipped to sleep anywhere.

USD 160.00 www.aulitfinelinens.com

VITAMIN C 1000mg

Flying dramatically increases your chances of getting sick. Princess Diana

always used to load-up on vitamin C before she boarded a plane. Taking

a leaf out of her book, just before every flight I pop one echinacea tablet

and chew a couple of 1,000mg vitamin C tabs. The

immunity-boosting powers of these supplements

may be debated but they seem to work for me, and

the body excretes whatever vitamin C it doesn’t

use so it’s impossible to overdose.

GBP 12.29 for 180 tablets www.boots.com

PAUL SMITH

LEATHER LAPTOP BAG

When it comes to carrying my computer –

the tool upon which I write articles and

check every word in TCT – I think my trusty

13” MacBook Pro deserves to be a little

pampered. After all, for the past five years

it has travelled everywhere I have. Iconic

British brand Paul Smith produces some

gorgeous leather goods, including this

smart bag made from pebble embossed

leather. The padded laptop compartment is

purpose designed and the shoulder strap

means I can sling it over my shoulder

when I’m rushing through an airport.

GBP 525 www.paulsmith.com

No Shoes Required

AT

QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA


On the edge of Arabia’s famed Empty Quarter, an hour and a half outside

of Abu Dhabi, solitude and tranquility set the world to rights at Qasr Al

Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara. ASHLEE STARRATT navigates the dunes

with the sand between her toes, exploring this wanderer’s paradise oasis

88 The Cultured Traveller Apr-May 2017

G

olden hour, somewhere on a dusty

stretch of two-lane blacktop 60-minutes

outside Abu Dhabi. I’ve been staring out

the window of the Lincoln Navigator

that’s been my carriage since I was picked-up in DXB.

Dubai, jewel of the Middle East, and Abu Dhabi, her sister

gemstone, glistening metropolises are now blurred

through tinted glass. As the skyscrapers slip away, their

urban trappings give way to sand as the road into sunset

sings its own song of gold. We’ve still got half an hour to

go. It’s here, on the edge of the Rub’Al Khali – the largest

uninterrupted sand desert in the world – where the cord

that keeps us tethered to our sense of the known frays

ever so slightly. Call it what you will, but Rub’Al Khali –

better known as the Empty Quarter, covering 650,000

kms across the U.A.E., Saudi Arabia and Oman – is a place

to lose yourself. But, mark my words, it’s not a place to

get lost in.

Where the blacktop ends stands the last gate before the

great nothingness – a simple, metal bar between the road

our comfort zone walks, and the unending dunes,

monoliths of the Liwa Desert at the perimeter of that

beautiful abyss. This protected area is part of a 9,000 sq

km nature reserve where, at the end of a 20-minute drive

upwards along an undulating track through 40-metre

dunes, sits Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara.

A more isolated retreat you’ll be hard-pressed to find in the

U.A.E.; its rugged beauty transportive; matched only by its

dedication to Bedouin authenticity. With 206 rooms,

including ten Royal Pavilion pool villas, spread out in tiny

‘villages’ blossoming outward from the cluster of its rustic

main hub, guests can indulge their senses across

breathtaking vistas of desert which, while stark, are no less

fulfilling in their exquisite desolation.

This is a mystic place, the Liwa Desert. Here footprints last

as long as the wind allows.. mere vagaries to the sand;

where Bedouin fires once bounced their survivalist light to

cast shadows among the dunes; where the jinn are said to

frolick among the folklore of a people; and where the wind

that blows at dawn across the sea of sand is, as some say,

the soul’s breath.

As dark approaches, our headlights bob along the uneven

desert track like a drunken will-o’-the-wisp. A stone gate

approaches and, then, we hit the rough cobblestone of the

Qasr Al Sarab courtyard. The motif of the resort, in colour

palette and architecture, is one of lush stone, marble and

wood, with dappled palms and trickling water features to

enhance the ambiance of an oasis, alongside a décor of

gilded Arabesque. Drenched in natural light, all windows

are south-facing, to worship the sun against the backdrop

of the dunes’ sandy mountain moonscape.

Sound changes as though in an insulated recording booth

when you’re this far out into the desert. Whilst silence

reigns every movement seems to create an echo. The quiet

can be unnerving at first but becomes blissfully

contemplative later. Upon check-in we’re offered fresh

dates and a lush yoghurt-based drink, along with cool

towels to remove the dust of the road from our faces. This

isn’t a place where one would recommend driving with the

windows open.

Up a flagstone staircase and under a cool stone archway,

the wooden door to our Deluxe Terrace Room gives way to

a lush, spacious interior bedecked with russet, shades of

gold and natural materials that are Anantara’s hallmark.

Aside from the usual king-sized bed, walk-in rain-shower

and family-sized Jacuzzi, we’re taken with the bespoke

‘soap bar’ menu, featuring customized blends of aromatic

essential oils and essences, and the 45 m 2 outdoor terrace

with plump banquette seating, oversized loungers and al

fresco dining table. Protected from the blazing sun by a

timber and thatched roof, the terrace is even larger than

the room’s interior and the perfect spot for a pre-dinner

gathering with friends. The view from the terrace, across

the tree-dappled grounds and sapphire pool, outward

towards the barren beauty of the desert, is reverent. It’s

here I slip off my shoes and let my feet connect with the

earth for the next 48 hours.

After quickly freshening up, a club car whisks us to

Ghadeer - the resort’s poolside Mediterranean restaurant

and shisha lounge - for a late dinner. The darkness hangs

like a curtain, our table on the edge of the desert. The drop

in temperature is marked, but the service is top-par – the

food comforting and satisfying. The vegetable and goats’

cheese tart is not to be missed. On the way back to our

room, the club car winding through the resort’s serpentine

trails, we spot a pair of reflective eyes frozen in the

darkness just outside the reach of our headlights. In a flash

they’re gone, a windy rustle left in its wake. Our driver tells

us it’s not uncommon for sand gazelles to make their way

into the resort to nibble on the foliage surrounding the

villas and suites. This is confirmed a few minutes later

when those eyes – accompanied by an arching pair of

horns and tuft of tail – reappear a few metres further down

the pathway. We slow to a halt and watch as nature makes

its presence known. The myth that there’s little life in the

desert appropriately dissolves.

The morning dawns in shades of ochre and rust and we’re

up with the sunrise to prepare for a camel trekking

excursion. After a sumptuous breakfast at Al Waha, Qasr Al

Sarab’s all-day dining outlet, we head to the main building

to meet our guide. Part Bedouin hunting lodge part history

lesson, the library lounge meeting point is a treasure trove

of curios from a bygone cultural era whose traditional hold

lives on. We hit the road in a 4x4, the pavement giving way

to sand just past the resort’s tennis courts. Where we’re

headed requires a small amount of off-roading to reach.

We pass a shaded camel paddock, where the distinctively

dark shaggy-haired Saudi Arabian dromedaries nurse their

young under the fronds of date palms.

Atop our faithful ships of the desert, placidly plodding their

way across the dusty plateau, our guide points out how the

footprints made by their hooves expand like pillows with

every step, allowing them – as though wearing snowshoes

– to glide across the sand rather than sink. We also spot

small lizard tracks and short, scrub-brush clinging on

against all odds to take root in the desert clime. Our guide

gingerly plucks a succulent bud and offers it to taste. Salty,

it bursts in the mouth like samphire. Nourished by an

underground network of tributaries, it’s one way the desert

gives up her secrets.

Unsurprisingly sandy and camel scented, we spend the

remainder of the day supine by the pool. After a cooling dip

and a few beverages, (the fresh watermelon juice was the

ultimate rehydrator), we’re sufficiently lubricated to

continue our evening’s rituals with the sundowners hour at

Suhail – the resort’s rooftop lounge. For the more

adventurous (and fit!), climbing the huge adjacent sand

dune to worship the last of the sun’s rays is a rite of

passage; but we’re content to meditate over a few chilled

glasses of vino, while time stops in veneration of the view.

Dinner sees us kicking off our shoes by the sand and

campfires of Al Falaj’s carpeted Bedouin majlis. Here the

food is cooked over coals or roasted on spits – juices


dripping and skin crackling – whilst the smell of shisha is

thick and coils about our ankles. To our left a camel is

tethered to a post just outside the circle of light cast by the

flames. An Emirati stoops before the blaze, a hooded falcon

on his arm. Children leave their plates and rush over to see

the raptor. Projected on the sand dune in front of us is a

black and white film-reel; footage of the early days of Abu

Dhabi and its leader Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan – a

historical time capsule under a sky teeming and timeless

with constellations. The scene is utterly magical.

The following morning, our last at the resort, once again

sees us up with the dawn and headed into the

no-man’s-land of the Empty Quarter for some

dune-bashing that we won’t soon forget. You haven’t felt

the blood pumping through your veins until you’ve had two

wheels hanging, nose-first, over the lip of a 40-metre

dune. And this was the ‘soft’ excursion option! At one point

our driver defies gravity to hoist our car up the crest of a

wave of sand so high that, upon exiting the vehicle, the

world seems precariously perpendicular – all right angles

and rippled sand, with some blue sky thrown in for good

measure. Out here, where only the wind wanders, we are

interlopers in a desert tableau. As far as the eye can see is

sameness and solitude, though nothing is really the same,

for these dunes talk; they slide along the tongue of the

wind, hewn into new patterns and shapes that trick the eye

with their ever-changing story. What once was will no

longer be tomorrow. It’s the most breath-taking and

terrifying place. One my mind still gnaws over obsessively.

After an hour and a half we’re back in the arms of the

resort. No stay at an Anantara property would be complete

without a diversion to their signature spa. A lush massage

is enough to set the world – and your lumbar region – to

rights after the bumps and jolts of a morning spent out on

the dunes.

As we check out and hit the road back to Dubai, the soles

of my feet still burning from the sand’s lashing, there’s a

sense of ennui that overtakes us, and the mood in the car

changes. Introspection, if you will, and a longing for what

we’ve just left behind. As Antoine de Saint-Exupéry once

wrote, “What makes the desert beautiful,” said the Little

Prince, “is that somewhere it hides a well…”. At that

moment Qasr Al Sarab was just ours.

www.qasralsarab.anantara.com


Until visiting Colombia for the first time

three years ago I’m embarrassed to admit

that I’d never set foot in Latin America.

Four visits later and I’m somewhat

addicted to the only Spanish-speaking

American country that is embraced by the

Pacific and Atlantic oceans. In between is

a nation of rich flora and fauna unlike

anywhere else – including the Amazon

rainforest and Andes Mountains –

together with modern cities, vast

farmlands, ancient civilizations and

authentic colonial charm.

In recent years Colombia has undergone

a remarkable transformation – turning

the tide on a long running and bloody

terrorist insurgency – and made huge

strides in restoring security and stability

to the nation. Today, the country's

boundless energy and genuine spirit fill

every corner of the land, and music,

dance, food, art, fashion and style

saturate its conurbations. Nowhere is this

more evident than the historic 16 th

century Caribbean walled city of

Cartagena de Indias, a fairytale

destination of romance, legends and

superbly preserved beauty and

remarkable secrets contained within

centuries-old colonial stone walls.


SPOTLIGHT

ON

CARTAGENA



On the northern coast of Colombia,

Cartagena’s historical and political

heritage is undeniable. Founded in 1533

by Spanish commander Pedro de Heredia, the

city soon established itself as the leading trade

and governmental seat of the New World

Conquistadors. Gold tombs and Indian reserves

were immediately pillaged by the invaders, and

the city soon became a huge bank vault for the

precious jewels, silver and bullion that the

Spanish were ripping from the hearts of

Colombia and neighbouring Peru and shipping

back to Europe. Seven miles of fortified walls –

the largest in Latin America – were built to

defend against the many pirates, English

privateers and host of

other nefarious characters

who frequently tried to

ransack the plundered

wealth stored within the

imposing fort. Largely

governed by the Spanish,

they have all left their

fingerprints firmly in the

aesthetics of Cartagena’s

architecture.

The stunning city was

granted World Heritage

Site status by UNESCO in

1984 and remains one of

the most authentic and

well-maintained

examples of Spanish period colonial

architecture in the world. The French, Dutch

and British also invaded and ruled for brief

periods of time, and Cartagena became one of

only two slave trading ports in the Americas –

the other being in Mexico. Such a mixture of

influencing cultures, through incredibly

tumultuous times, has imbued Cartagena with

a unique and special identity; part African, a

dash of pirate, a slice of Europe, a significant

Caribbean flavour, a smidgen of Native Indian

but one hundred per cent Colombian,

encompassing all the colour, passion and

vibrancy that runs through the veins of this

extraordinarily diverse country.

A maze of cobbled alleys, ornate

bougainvillea-covered balconies, colourful

400-year-old houses, crumbling mansions and

massive churches that cast their shadows across

plazas, music, aromas and pulsating rhythms

greet visitors at every corner of Cartagena.

Horses and carts clatter through the streets and

flash mobs dance in pretty squares. Whilst the

whole of Colombia is designed to be explored at

ground level, once visited, the nation’s

undisputed Caribbean queen saturates with her

architectural gems and embraces with her

alluring charms to such an extent that it’s truly

hard for one to leave.

The best way to explore the captivating walled

city is to basically throw away the guidebook,

forget all normal sightseeing routines and simply

walk out the front door of your lodgings and stroll

through the old town by day and night. Don’t

even take a map – you will find where you’re

going eventually, in good old Caribbean time.

A three or four-night stay – ideally over a

weekend – is plenty of time to enjoy first hand

the jewel in Colombia’s crown. Book

accommodation within the walled city but don’t

be afraid to explore beyond, because the outer

town – teeming with traffic and populated by the

working classes – is a charmingly chaotic

experience that can leave you delightfully dazed

and confused in minutes but somehow addicted

to the madness of it all.

This was my second visit to Cartagena. My first

was jammed diary-like with places I was advised

I simply had to see and things I couldn’t miss. Big

mistake. On that occasion I left Cartagena with

little feel for the city’s utter uniqueness. On this

visit however – arriving with no real plans apart

from a hotel booking – I soaked up as much as

possible of the sensual atmosphere and left

wanting more and already planning my return.

Although I’m very sure there are many more to

be discovered, here are a handful of memorable

places I came across whilst ambling within

Cartagena’s treasure-filled pastel-coloured

ancient walls.


www.sophiahotel.com.co

In an elegant republican building, surrounded by the historical walled city,

you’ll discover a place where sensitivity and inspiration reside in every corner.

Offering a personalized service for our guests, an inspiring and peaceful place

reawakens and wraps you in its subtle magic.

In each of its 15 rooms, the city’s magic is witnessed in a timeless and seamless

experience that combines historical and current designs in every detail.

+ 57 (5) 6517007

ventassophia@oxohotel.com

Calle 32 No. 4 - 45 Plaza de la Aduana

Cartagena - Colombia

SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA

Sofitel Legend Santa Clara

A hospitality landmark in the heart of the old city, and most

probably the most famous hotel in Colombia, Bill Gates,

Shakira, Mel Gibson, Francis Ford Coppola, Mick Jagger,

Plácido Domingo and Sting have all stayed at Santa Clara,

Cartagena’s classic hotel of choice for discerning clients

for decades. Formerly a monastery and a convent, the

property’s architectural 17 th century heritage has been

carefully incorporated to impress yet not bedazzle guests.

Suites are spacious and provide a contemporary vintage

feel laden with modern-day amenities. The hotel’s butler

service is particularly efficient without being pompous. A

variety of gourmet dining options and a well-stocked

cellar, a deluxe spa and a large palm tree-fringed

swimming pool are just some of the facilities on offer to

make visitors feel pampered and well looked after.

Wandering around the hotel brings guests face-to-face

with intriguing artifacts that were recovered from pirate

attacks, original architectural features and priceless

religious artworks. Meanwhile walking a few steps in any

direction from Santa Clara opens up a veritable selection of

history, culture, gastronomy and colour, making this an

ideal place to base oneself for the numerous adventures

Cartagena has to offer.

www.sofitel-legend.com/cartagena/en/

Café del Mar

For more than a decade this iconic venue has provided

visitors to Cartagena with uninterrupted views of the

striking crimson sunsets that are bestowed on the city and

transform the colours of its 16 th century buildings. Located

on the western most point of the ancient walls, a round of

sunset drinks at Café del Mar will undoubtedly kick start

your weekend in exciting and dramatic fashion. For those

who are a little peckish, a decent menu of pre-dinner bites

accompanies the long list of cocktails on offer. But don’t


AGUA DE MAR

GETSEMANÍ

linger here too long.. as the tropical night falls on the walled

city, move on to a different location and a more up tempo

beat that gets hotter and louder as the skies gets darker.

www.facebook.com/cafedelmarcartagena

Getsemaní

An easy 10-minute walk from the walled city is Getsemaní,

a hip and recently gentrified area of Cartagena. Originally

the abode of freed slaves, merchants, tradesmen and those

who fought (and won) against the Spanish to gain

independence in 1821, this charming neighbourhood retains

the small town appeal of somewhere that has not quite

been fully discovered. Mostly inhabited by bohemian artists,

writers, musicians and other creative types, Getsemaní’s

artistic underbelly is reflected in the graffiti art adorning

many of its walls, live music and dancing in the main

square, and the influx of adventurous tourists fuelling the

rise of boutique hotels and other über-cool establishments

in the area, one of the best of which is Demente. A

Cuban-inspired tapas bar in a quirky speakeasy-style

setting, Demente is presided over by talented and friendly

staff and frequented by everyone from locals to cultured

travellers. Settle into a rocking chair inside and lose yourself

in the eclectic music whilst sipping a potent cocktail, or

feast on scrumptious pizzas in the characterful garden out

back and make a night of it.

www.demente.com.co

Café Havana

Once you’ve been sufficiently fuelled and fed at Demente,

and gathered enough Dutch courage to warm up your

dancing feet with a spot of salsa with the locals in Plaza de

la Trinidad (immediately in front of Demente), perfect your

moves and soak in the sultry Latin beats then head to Café

Havana to let your hair down in this long established dance

and music venue. Stepping into this joyous sweatbox is

CAFÉ HAVANA

quite literally akin to being transported into the pages of a

Cuban song. Sensual, heady and packed, the only thing

that's missing is the smell of Cuban cigars. Agile dancers fill

the floor moving to infectious salsa played live by

world-class bands, whilst anxious newbies sip on some of

the best mojitos in town before joining in. Make new

friends, dance 'til you drop and embrace the irresistibly sexy

Colombian energy of it all.

www.cafehavanacartagena.com

Agua de Mar

Cartagena’s prosperity in the 1500s made it a destination

that attracted explorers, architectural pioneers and

tradesmen, but also infamous pirates and thieves who

wreaked havoc in the city for decades. Walls and castles

that still stand proud – built to protect the city’s borders

from the incessant raids – are design features of a by-gone

colonial era that define the city’s inimitable aesthetic to this

day. The buccaneer influence doesn’t stop there: rum – the

infamous liquor with pirate connotations made from raw

sugar cane – is Cartagena’s liquid poison of choice, and so

no visit to the city can be truly complete without sampling

some of the country’s home produced varieties. Agua de Mar

is a gourmet eatery with a dash of Colombian flair complete

with a boutique cocktail bar laden with an excellent

selection of rums as well as gins. Presided over by charming

owner and chef Mar Alonso, start a night here with a

handcrafted cocktail followed by a dinner of gastronomic

treats laden with different flavours and textures.

www.aguademar.com

Gabriel García Márquez Tour

Márquez was a long time resident of Cartagena and used the

city as inspiration for his novels, amongst them the classic “Of

Love and Other Demons.” His home is adjacent to the Santa

Clara and is still a photographic stop for visiting tourists. The



multi-million selling author and Nobel prize winner -

affectionately known as “Gabo” in his natal land - can be

evoked through a personalised city tour which can be

downloaded to a smartphone, offering the opportunity to

conjure the sights, sounds, smells, period and romance of

Cartagena though captivating audio guides which are cleverly

intertwined with passaged from Gabo’s magical realism

literature. Stop off for a mouth-watering ‘arepa with cheese’

from a street vendor by the clock tower square, and get truly

lost in the fairy-tale that is Gabo and the exquisite city he

portrays in his unique writings. Unlike most city tours, this is

something that can be tailored to individuals or even

delivered to your hotel, and as such makes for a far more

potent adventure. Be sure to take in the celestial charm of the

San Pedro Claver Museum and Cloisters - homage to San

Pedro’s patronage of slaves - then walk a few paces to the

nearby market square where the poor souls were once sold.

www.tierramagna.com/en/cartagena-de-gabo/

María

María is a swanky, modern culinary haven created by

Bogotá-born but internationally trained chef, Alejandro

Ramírez, who prepares a fresh take on traditional food

served in a striking and fun interior, with colourful tiger

print murals on each of its four walls and a pineapple

chandelier in the centre. A firm believer in sustainable

eating, Ramírez works closely with native fishermen and

farmers, ensuring a daily supply of fresh local produce to

fuel his fusion menu of global cuisine, from

Asian-accented ceviche to a traditional take on British fish

and chips. The drinks list is equally inventive, featuring

cocktails such as Cactus Margarita and Mango Mojito to

name just a few. Maria is the perfect place to eat well and

people watch before heading to Alquimíco a few doors

down the road.

www.mariacartagena.com


Alquímico

The city’s Palenquera fruit sellers are as much a fixture of

Cartagena as the Catedral de San Pedro Claver. Their bright

dresses and smiling faces have become an integral part of

the very fabric of Cartagena. You only need look into the

bountiful bowls carried on their heads to see the incredible

range of exotic fruits readily available in Colombia. Lulo,

feijoa, piña, curuba, pitahaya and guayaba are just some of

the fruits Colombians used almost exclusively for juices for

years, meanwhile drinking their liquor straight. It took Jean

Trinh – who opened the city’s very

popular-but-now-closed El Laboratorio – to ask what

happens if you infuse rum with local fruits and spices. The

result is fabulous handcrafted cocktails, and thus

Cartagena's cocktail alchemist, Alquímico, was born,

housed in a beautiful two-storey 1910 mansion. Alquímico

has transformed drinking in Cartagena into a veritable art

form and elevated the city’s nightlife scene to new heights.

Moreover, on Friday and Saturday nights, the terrace atop

the roof of the city's newest nocturnal hotspot provides

space to dance and groove, so there’s no need to move on

to a traditional club.

www.alquimico.com

San Alberto Café

Clear your head after a night of cocktails and partying and

begin a new day with a fresh brew of coffee. But like rum,

Colombia’s variety of coffees needs an expert hand to guide

one through its delicate processing and flavourings, not to

mention the best way to enjoy it. Across the street from the

cathedral, San Alberto Café was borne of its namesake

plantation - Hacienda San Alberto - located in the heart of

the country's coffee triangle, located between 1,500 and

1,800 meters above sea level in the province of Quindío, a

municipality known as Buenavista in Colombia. San Alberto

has been producing high grade beans for more than forty

years and has won the most number of international

awards for it’s products, so aside from a unique tasting

experience, you will enjoy top quality coffee that will help

shake off the previous night’s excesses. At its Cartagena

café, expert baristas will talk you through the fascinating

steps of planting, harvesting, classifying and producing the

country’s top brew, and, if you have time, you can book a

coffee baptism ritual or sample some of San Antonio’s

premium offerings. Either way, whether you book a coffee

ritual or grab a hit of the country’s finest caffeine,

stopping-by San Alberto Café will undoubtedly charge you

up for the day ahead.

www.cafesanalberto.com/en/


ALQUÍMICO

Gelateria Paradiso

Cartagena is hot and humid. Thankfully nights are cooler

and there are dozens of enticing ice cream shops within the

old city. You could spend a month in Cartagena and

probably drop anchor at a different gelateria every day.

Maria Nevett's glorious ice cream parlour, Gelataria

Paradiso, pairs French-inspired floral boudoir frills with

homemade ice cream thrills to create the ultimate place to

pit stop and chill. It’s the kind of place every kid dreams of

and is the most charming ice cream shop in the city.

Nevett's fruity selection is made with 100% natural

ingredients including a colourful kaleidoscope of Colombian

fruits including zapote, corozo, passion fruit, costeño cherry

and lulo as well as organic cacao-rich chocolate treats.

Each day sees six new flavours introduced alongside

classics such as banana, Stracciatella, salted caramel,

coconut water, ginger, and cookies and cream. Be warned -

if you sit down here you may never get up.

www.facebook.com/gelateriaparadiso

El Boliche Cebichería

Though ceviche originated in Peru, Colombia has put its

own distinctive spin on it, and there are few better places in

Cartagena than this tiny 16-seat locale to have a flavourful

seafood party in your mouth. Launched in 2011 by chef

Oscar Colmeranes - who perfected his craft at Martin

Berasategui's eponymous three Michelin-starred San

Sebastian restaurant - his ceviche skills are equally

matched by his insistence on using only freshly caught

produce fished by artisans. Colmeranes’ cebichería offers

diners exquisite attention to detail incorporating local fruit

and herb combinations, and leaves even the most seasoned

of ceviche palates satisfied yet not weighted down by strong

flavours. Focusing on quality over quantity, the grilled

seafood platter, crab empanadas and ceviche in a suero

costeño (similar to cream cheese) reduction are particularly

tasty highlights.

www.facebook.com/elbolichecebicheria

Movich Rooftop

Boasting 360-degree views of the old city, the harbour and

the skyscrapers of downtown Cartagena, there is nowhere

better to view the city’s historic sites, juxtaposed with the

Miami-esque skyline of its contemporary architecture,

than from the rooftop of the Movich. Design buffs will

marvel at the contrasting buildings on display, offset by

the sheer beauty of the sunset’s vivid colours. Meanwhile

delectable cocktails will get you in the mood for yet

another lively night on the town, and are served in the

perfect setting to gaze at the scenery from a bird’s eye

view vantage point.

www.movichhotels.com

MOVICH ROOFTOP



TEMPLE RUINS OF TA PROHM

TRAVELLER

LOWDOWN

DILRAZ KUNNUMMAL explores

the famed North Western

Cambodian city of Siem Reap,

host to some of Asia’s most

incredible temples

An enchanting and engaging saga of love and

deceit, of power struggles and battles and of

age-old conflict, is, according to local folklore,

the backdrop to the foundation of Siem Reap.

The name means ‘defeat of Siam’, and many

believe that it is connected to the ancient encounter

between the Khmer and Siam kingdoms. Modern historians

disagree, but everything about Siem Reap is as intriguing as

its backstory.

Siem Reap once was one of the busiest cities in South East

Asia. A staging point for the rich and famous in the early

ANGKOR TEMPLE NORTH GATE

ANGKOR NIGHT MARKET

ANGKOR WAT

CAMBODIAN FISH AMOK

sixties, it has now emerged as one of the world’s most

popular tourist destinations. With its magnificent temples,

museums and markets, Siem Reap is a must see place for

anyone with a passion for travel and exploration. It is truly a

land of mysticism, wonder and, above all else, architectural

brilliance.

We visited Siem Reap as part of a Vietnam and Cambodia

tour, organised by Travel Cambodia agency

(www.travelcambodia.com). The unassuming small but

efficient airport really does not prepare adventurers for what

lies ahead. A 30-minute drive took us to the base for our

2-day stay – The Central Boutique Angkor Hotel; cozy,

welcoming, tucked away and the perfect place to put our

feet up and get some much-needed rest

(www.centralboutiqueangkorhotel.com). At the time of our

stay, the hotel was bedecked in decorations to celebrate

Cambodian New Year,

known as Choul Chnam

Thmey in the Khmer

language. The Lunar

New Year, which falls in

mid April, marks the

end of the harvest

season, and the three

days of Maha

Sangkran, Virak

Vanabat and Veerak

Loeng Sak are

celebrated with great

pomp and vigor by all

Cambodians – even those living abroad.

Our first sightseeing stop was Angkor Night Market open

everyday from 5pm ‘til midnight (www.siemreap.net). With

over 200 vendors from across Cambodia, the Original Night

Market (as it’s commonly known) was established ten years

ago and is a good place to shop for souvenirs and trinkets,

with a palpable buzz in the air even late at night. Energetic

and lively, the market is always awash with travellers from

around the world looking for a piece of Cambodia to take

home. Island Bar with its enormous cone-shaped thatched

roof (www.facebook.com/IslandBarSiemReap), and CoCo

House Restaurant set in a traditional Khmer house are both

popular and bustling and ideal for a pit stop

(www.facebook.com/CocoHouseRestaurant).

The next day, after a swift breakfast, we head off to explore

the wondrous city. An Angkor-Pass currently costs USD 37

An enchanting and engaging

saga of love and deceit, of power

struggles and battles and of

age-old conflict, is, according to

local folklore, the backdrop to

the foundation of Siem Reap

for a day and allows access to all of the Angkor heritage

sites, except for Beng Mealeas and Phnom Kulen. You will

need cash to buy an Angkor-Pass and ensure your

shoulders and knees are covered. If you buy your pass in the

evening after 5pm, it will be valid for the next day (thus

avoiding the long morning queues) and that evening you

can watch the sunset at Angkor Park for free

(www.visit-angkor.org). USD 2 from each Angkor-Pass sold

is donated to the foundation for the Kantha Bopha

Children's Hospitals in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap

(www.beat-richner.ch).

The first site we visited was Angkor Thom, a walled and moated

royal city and the last capital of the Angkorian empire, situated

on the western banks of Siem Reap river. Five towering grand

entrances allow access to the 3km x 3km site, one for each

cardinal point, plus the Victory Gate that leads to the Royal

Palace area. We entered

via the South Gate

(coming from Siem

Reap town approx. 9km

to the south), which

was crowned with four

giant faces and framed

by elephants wading

amongst lotus flowers.

To say that the sight

was jaw dropping is

something of an

understatement.

Dating from the 12 th century, Bayon is the spectacular

central temple of the ancient city, known for its towering

pillars and multitude of stone faces, standing in the exact

center of Angkor representing the intersection of heaven

and earth. Bayon was the last temple to built at Angkor and

is the official state temple of King Jayavarman VII, a staunch

believer in Mahāyāna Buddhism, the largest major tradition

of Buddhism still existing today. Bayon is renowned for its

huge stone faces of the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, with

one facing outward and keeping watch at each compass

point. The curious smiling image is thought by many to be a

portrait of Jayavarman himself. It was incredible to think

that this spectacular structure was built around 1190 AD. At

one point I noticed locals arranging small stones and

pebbles one on top of the other since many still believe that

this will bring good fortune. After being snapped with a lady

attired in traditional Cambodian costume in exchange for a

Dollar, we headed to the next temple, along the 350m


TERRACE OF THE ELEPHANTS

ANGKOR THOM

Terrace of the Elephants to the south of the city, from which

Jayavarman VII surveyed his army. The same terrace was

used as an audience hall and place for public ceremonies in

the 12 th century. What’s incredible about Angkor’s temples is

the feeling of being

teleported back to a

different era. Such is

the intensity of the site

that one can almost

picture the setting in its

heyday. It was really

quite surreal.

As we entered the

towering three-stepped

pyramidal 10 th century

Hindu Phimeanakas temple, built in the Khleang style, we

noticed two pools adjacent to each other. Literally

translating to “Celestial Palace”, it is said that every night

the King bathed in one of the temple’s pools and lay with a

different naga, or serpent-headed woman. If the naga didn’t

Dating from the 12th century, Bayon

is the spectacular central temple of

the ancient city, known for its

towering pillars and multitude of

stone faces, standing in the exact

center of Angkor representing the

intersection of heaven and earth

appear for some reason it was feared that the end was nigh

for the King. Concurrently, if the King didn’t show-up one

night his people took this as a sign of a possible impending

calamity.

Located southwest of

the East Mebon and

east of Angkor Thom,

and built in the late

1100s, Ta Prohm is a

veritable live battle

between nature and

ancient architecture in

the heart of the

Cambodian jungle. A

UNESCO World Heritage

site for 25 years, unlike most of Angkor’s temples beautiful

Ta Prohm has largely been left to the clutches of the living

forest. Some of you will of course recognise Ta Prohm from

the 2001 movie Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, in which the

heroine (played by Angelina Jolie) fights off guardian statues


SOUTH GATE

TA PROHM TEMPLE

in order to save the world. Standing in Ta Prohm – amidst

the giant roots of trees attached to the buildings’ porous

sandstone – is quite unbelievable. Whilst the roots are firmly

fixed to the buildings themselves, extracting the last

remaining vestiges of

water from the stones

and ever-so-slowly

crushing the structures,

the trees are at the

same time holding up

Ta Prohm. I doubt I’ll

ever forget the smiling

stone face of Khmer

goddess Apsara, just

visible through the

huge tree roots.

After a long and thoroughly exhilarating morning a break

was much needed, so we stopped for a bite at a roadside

eatery to recharge our batteries. The one dish that must not

be missed during any visit to Cambodia is amok. The

Located southwest of the East

Mebon and east of Angkor Thom,

and built in the late 1100s, Ta

Prohm is a veritable live battle

between nature and ancient

architecture in the heart of the

Cambodian jungle

essence of Cambodian cuisine, amok is basically steamed

curried fish traditionally made with thick coconut cream,

galangal and aromatic kroeung spices that make up the

base flavours of many Khmer dishes. A bowl of classic

Cambodian fish amok

is reputedly as healthy

as it’s tasty and ours

was simply delicious.

Saving the best for last

we headed to

Cambodia’s most iconic

and awe-inspiring

temple, and source of

fierce national pride,

Angkor Wat, located

about six kilometres (four miles) north of Siem Reap. It is a

short walk across the gigantic 200m-wide 5km-perimeter

rectangular moat surrounding Angkor Wat – so big it is visible

from space – to reach the temple. Because the main entrance

is generally always crowded, it’s advisable to arrive via one of

the side entrances. As we walked

through the trees we really

weren’t sure what to expect.

Along the way what resembled a

number of mini temples or

outhouses dotted the route.

Mystical, magical and

marvellous. None of these

words, or any others for that

matter, really do justice to the

immense beauty of regal Angkor

Wat. Originally built roughly

between AD 1113 and 1150 by

Suryavarman II as a Hindu

temple dedicated to the god

Vishnu, Angkor Wat

encompasses an area of about

500 acres (200 hectares) and is

the earthly representation of

Mount Meru - the Mount

Olympus of the Hindu faith and

the abode of ancient gods. The

Cambodian god-kings of old

each strove to better their

ancestors’ structures in size,

scale and symmetry, culminating

in what is believed to be one of

the largest religious monuments

ever constructed. Its name

means “temple city.” Angkor Wat

was converted into a Buddhist

temple in the 14 th century, when

statues of Buddha were added to

its already rich artwork. But

Angkor Wat’s size is not the most

fascinating aspect of this

awe-inspiring monument. The

glorious architecture and

intricate detailing is what sets

Angkor Wat apart. It’s said that

the temple took 48 years to

construct, and, quite honestly,

when you see it up close you can

ANGKOR TEMPLE


understand why. Even after all

these years, faces, characters

and scenes are still easily

recognisable and the walls tell a

compelling story.

At the heart of Angkor Wat is a

213-foot-tall (65m) central tower

surrounded by four smaller

towers and a series of enclosing

walls – a layout that recreates the

image of mythological Mount

Meru, which believers consider to

be the center of all physical,

metaphysical and spiritual

universes. Reaching the top of

the central tower involves a

narrow and at times slightly

precarious and steep climb, but

it’s worth the effort. The view is a

spectacle of beauty befitting the

Khmer's architectural genius for

creating harmonious proportions.

Even after two hours of walking

around the site we hadn’t seen

the entire temple, but there’s only

so much one’s legs can take!

Refreshed and rehydrated

throughout our Angkor Wat

experience by fresh coconut

water, found throughout

Cambodia, we almost certainly

wouldn’t have survived such a

physically demanding day had it

not been for this refreshing drink.

Siem Reap contains a million

stories: tales of love, of courage, of

victory, of toil, of religion and of

resilience. We may have only been

in the city for less than 48 hours,

but the sights we saw and the

memories we made will almost

certainly remain with me forever.


STONE FACE OF KHMER GODDESS APSARA

TA

TE

& S SIP

REVIEW

INDIAN

ACCENT

NEW DELHI

Food

Atmosphere



Indian food is beloved the world over for its rich sauces,

succulent meats and evolved vegetarian dishes. The

sub continent boasts vast and varied culinary traditions.

In the north, including the Delhi area and Rajasthan,

the food is heavily influenced by centuries of Mughal rule

and includes Persian, Middle Eastern and Central Asian

influences. Clay oven tandoori style cooking originated in

Persia and was brought to India via Afghanistan by Arabs.

Meanwhile Arabian and Portuguese trade and colonial

links heavily influenced cooking in India’s southern

coastal areas, where the food is spicier, with a greater

prevalence of chili and curry and more use of seafood.

Across the vast nation, rice, millet, lentils and chickpeas

are staples, while spices such as coriander, cumin,

cardamom, ginger and garlic proliferate. Indian flat breads

- such as naan and chapatis - and crisp breads including

papadums are found throughout the country and

accompany most meals.

Almost every five-star hotel in Delhi incorporates a restaurant

that serves Indian cuisine, but the emphasis is on delivering

classic dishes at high standards. Some of these restaurants

focus on regional offerings. But while traditional Indian food is

easy to find, as well as dishes prepared with less spices to

appeal to Western palettes, innovative Indian fare is still

relatively rare and it is this that makes Indian Accent so

unique. Indian Accent does something very different by

offering Indian-inspired cuisine with a modern twist,

incorporating contemporary global influences and unorthodox

yet tasty flavour pairings. In short, Indian Accent boldly shows

the culinary world what the future of Indian cuisine looks like.

Since opening in 2009, Indian Accent has been consistently

ranked as the one of the country’s top dining destinations

and is the only restaurant in India to feature in the World’s

50 Best Restaurants 2017. Consequently Indian Accent has

achieved culinary superstar status and has become a go to

destination for global foodies. Under the tutelage of head

chef and patron, Manish Mehrota, Indian Accent has

pioneered the fusion of traditional Indian heritage flavours

with global influences and modern cooking techniques.

A core part of Mehrota’s inspiration comes from the super

strict vegetarian home in which he grew up, in Patna, a

small town in eastern India. Mehrota’s meat-averse father

was so insistent about what was consumed indoors that his

wife had to cook eggs for the children in separate cookware

outdoors on the terrace. Mehrota has been known to trawl

the food bazaars of Old Delhi and sample street food in

search of culinary stimulation. India has so much regional

food diversity that his travels around the subcontinent also

serve as inspiration. Add inherent pan Asian and

Mediterranean food sensibilities, and it is hardly surprising

that Mehrota is widely regarded as the most exciting

modern Indian chef in the world today.

Playful and innovative, Indian Accent strives to offer dishes

which are deliciously different yet familiar enough to appeal

to the broadest and most discerning of palettes. Advance

reservations of weeks and sometimes even months are

required to assure a coveted seat at Indian Accent, and

serves as testament to its enduring popularity. My visit to its

flagship New Delhi location confirmed the hype.

Amidst the cacophony and managed chaos that is

contemporary New Delhi - one of the biggest cities on the

planet and capital of India - lies The Manor, an upmarket,

modern and somewhat discreet boutique hotel in a

metropolis better known for its ubiquitous international

luxury hotels. Located in the leafy and affluent Friends

Colony residential neigbourhood in South Delhi, The Manor

is a world away from the traffic and street peddler-choked

streets of New Delhi. However, since traffic throughout the

city is notoriously bad and unpredictable, plenty of extra

time should be allocated to arrive punctually for a

reservation at Indian Accent.

A verdant oasis of calm and unstuffy refinement, any

semblance of stress that journeying to The Manor may have

created is soon expunged upon entering the hotel’s

understated yet elegant entrance, decorated with a mix of

contemporary and antique art and furnishings. The overall

ambience is that of a private residence, purposely lacking in

fanfare and devoid of frenetic energy. Indian Accent is

housed in a suite of reception room-sized spaces on the

ground floor, including a glass-fronted veranda looking

towards frangipani trees and well-manicured grounds.

The restaurant’s layout fosters a dining experience that is

calm, civilized and comfortable. A stylish bar incorporating a

comfortable and whimsical lounge seating area adds

character to the neutral tones. Though the décor and

furnishings are tasteful and well appointed, the focus at

Indian Accent is decidedly on the culinary offering and

professional service, without the theatrical distractions that

seem to be so increasingly a part of so many high-end 21 st

century restaurant offerings.

Dining at Indian Accent is a veritable journey of the senses.

Taste, texture and presentation are executed flawlessly,

laced with just enough fussiness to reveal the creativity and

skill involved in showcasing each dish’s exotic flavours and

seasonal produce in a unique way. The experimental and

traditional are married in each dish with extreme skill and

culinary success. More than anything, the food tastes

wonderful, bursting with flavours. Although diners may


order à la carte, the six

course-tasting menu is the best way

to sample the broad array of what’s

on offer. This being India, there is also

a vegetarian tasting menu. Menus

change seasonally to include fresh

produce and introduce new

combinations and culinary

developments.

The tasting style of eating can often be

tedious and stuffy but not at Indian

Accent. Pulled pork quesadillas were

enhanced by jackfruit. Wild

mushrooms were served on a crisp

paper-thin dosa and brought to life

with a hint of wasabi raita. Tiger

prawns were topped with morsels of

bacon and homemade chutneys. John

Dory was served with coconut barley

and cashew pakora. My meal ended

with a trio of desserts which included a

saffron infused ice cream which was

so utterly sublime the taste has

lingered with me ever since. The

service was nothing short of

exceptional, with every server able to

explain each dish in

easy-to-understand detail. The delivery

of each course was spot on, the entire

dining experience flowing perfectly.

While Indian food has always had its

dedicated fan base, it has always

bowed to tradition and classical

preparation. Indian Accent shows

that it can be exciting, modern and

cutting-edge. Having recently opened

in New York to rave reviews Indian

accent now has London in its sights,

a testament to its broad appeal and

Mehrota’s gift for making culinary

inventiveness accessible and fun. By

refashioning classical Indian dishes

with global and modern twists,

Mehrota has firmly put

Indian-inspired 21 st century cuisine

firmly in the spotlight of the global

food scene.

INDIAN ACCENT

Food:

Atmosphere:

Executive chef:

Address:

Manish Mehrotra

The Manor, 77 Friends Colony (West), New Delhi,

India, 110065

Telephone: +91 11 43235151

Email:

reservations.del@indianaccent.com

Website: www.indianaccent.com

Cuisine:

Inventive Indian

Opening hours: Every day 12:00–15:00 + 19:00–23:00

Reservations: Essential

Lunch price: Potato sphere chaat + chettinad chicken keema +

daulat ki chaat: INR 2275++

Dinner price: Meetha achaar spare ribs + tamarind john dory +

warm doda burfi treacle tart: INR 2375++

Ideal meal: Non-vegetarian tasting menu INR 3300++ or

vegetarian tasting menu INR 3200++

Wheelchair access: Yes

Children: No high chairs. No kids menu

Credit cards: All major

Parking:

Valet free of charge

Reviewed by Alex Benasuli on 14 th February 2017

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about

the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.


TA

TE

& S SIP

NEWCOMER

TATEL

MIAMI


A steady stream of upscale eateries constantly open in

Miami - in Wynwood, Downtown, the Design District,

Brickell and, of course, in good old South Beach. If you

want a gastronomic barometer of America’s new culinary

trends or up-and-coming foodie fads - despite not having

one single Michelin star between the hundreds of restaurants

in Greater Miami - you can rely on the fashionable

Florida vacation resort to deliver a selection of hot new

dining venues to experience year in year out.

I rather enjoy seeing what’s new and what’s gone during

my annual pilgrimage to Miami, since as quickly as funky

new restaurants spring-up they also disappear, such is the

competition for affluent diners amidst the city’s sky high

rents. Premium sites are often left empty and unloved for

some time before an adventurous restaurateur with deep

pockets, a well known chef with a dedicated following, or a

famous name with hot connections risks investing in

opening a new eatery in America’s must-visit culinary

destination. The level of publicity essential to launch any

new restaurant in Miami is so great that it’s a very public

fall from gastronomic grace when one fails.

David Bouley's failed Evolution restaurant used to occupy

1669 Collins Avenue, within South Beach's Ritz-Carlton

hotel. Despite a much-hyped launch it lasted for all of one

year before closing in 2007. Apparently it was overpriced

and, well, Bouley just wasn’t there, like, ever. Then entered

the investors behind Bal Harbour’s highly successful bistro

La Goulue, who took over the space and launched Dorè

South Beach. Chef Jeff Pfeiffer (formerly of La Goulue) was

at the helm, dishing out French-inspired cuisine in both

tapas and entrée styles. But Preiffer’s food obviously wasn’t

a sufficient enough draw, for Dorè South Beach opened in

2012 and didn’t last much longer than Evolution.

It takes a highly courageous restaurateur or a really hot

ticket to take on a space with such a chequered past. Enter

Spanish pop music heartthrob and Miami Beach local

Enrique Iglesias, international tennis champion Rafael

Nadal, and six-time NBA All-Star San Antonio Spurs player

Pau Gasol. Together with partners Abel Matutes Prats and

Manuel Campos Guallar they opened the second outpost of

Tatel in March 2017 - its first location in the U.S. at 1669

Collins Avenue - and sister to the highly successful Madrid

restaurant of the same name.

More a clubstaurant than a conventional eatery, Tatel

Miami serves Spanish cuisine with style and glamour, its

centrepiece elevated circular copper DJ booth cum stage

kinda giving away the restaurant’s hipster and

music-orientated credentials. The large 200-seat

restaurant - in addition to the main dining room and

photogenic island bar (pictured) that’s outfitted with a

metal chandelier composed of more than a thousand

bronze tubes and hundreds of LED lights above - also

boasts a variety of semi-private rooms and a special VIP

dining suite with its own bathroom. The walls are

decorated with plenty of contemporary interpretations of

Spanish-inspired art, which combined with the velvet

upholstery and delicate colour palette lends a warm yet

sophisticated feel to the whole place that I rather liked.

Since Tatel hails from Madrid it unsurprisingly has a

Spanish-inspired menu. Think items like Spanish tortilla,

croquetas, grilled octopus topped with red sauce, and its

signature dish: thin veal steak breaded and fried, topped

with a slow cooked egg and black truffle. To carry on the

tradition Stateside, Tatel Miami hired Nobu Miami’s former

executive chef Nicolas Mazier to helm the kitchen. Mazier

trained for months alongside Madrid’s executive chef

Nacho Chicharro in order to deliver the secrets of Spanish

cuisine to Miamians. According to anyone who's had it, you

haven't experienced gastronomic perfection until you've

tasted Tatel's truffled potato omelette. My dining

companion devoured hers in a blink so it must have been

good. The modern variations on classic Spanish dishes I

sampled were all beautifully presented and tasted rather

good, especially the carved suckling pig. Then again I’m a

dedicated carnivore. I possibly wouldn’t visit a Spanish

restaurant if I was a veggie. But if you’re a lover of pork,

shaved truffles and Iberian ham, 1669 Collins Avenue in

SoBe may be your new favourite place to feast.

www.tatelrestaurants.com



music&

NIGHT

LIFE

THE CIRCUS DOESN'T

LIVE HERE ANYMORE


On Sunday 21 st May 2017, Ringling Bros. and

Barnum & Bailey said its final farewell to a

sold-out crowd of 17,000 incredibly

enthusiastic circus fans, at the Nassau

Veterans Memorial Coliseum in Uniondale, 19

miles east of New York City on Long Island,

ending the almost one and a half century

history of “The Greatest Show On Earth”.

It all began back in the late 80s, when Prussia

was still a kingdom and Jesse James was

robbing banks. Phineas Taylor Barnum was 61

years old when the circus collaboration was

presented to him by a proposal to collaborate

from mid-western circus managers, W.C. Coup

and his partner, Dan Castello. A born

showman, Barnum recruited many of his old

friends and performers, and sought exciting

new acts to join in his latest adventure, which

was “to totally eclipse all other exhibitions in

the world.” On 10 th April 1871 “P.T. Barnum's

Grand Traveling Museum, Menagerie, Caravan

and Circus" opened in Brooklyn. The show was

a massive success and hugely popular, and as

the concept gained momentum Barnum

secured a site which was to be a permanent

home for his spectacle. Opening on 30 th April

1874, The New York Hippodrome (later to be

known as Madison Square Garden), was the

largest public amusement structure ever built,

seating over 10,000 and costing USD 150,000

back then. The lavish productions presented at

the Hippodrome set the tone for the future of

the circus spectacular, and first-class

performances became synonymous with

Barnum shows.

When Brit James Bailey’s enormously

successful globally "The Great London Show”

began encroaching on Barnum's American

market, the idea of combining the two shows

was broached and the two great showmen

began working together. One of their first

famous moves as Barnum and Bailey was the

purchase of the legendary elephant Jumbo

from the Royal Zoological Gardens in London.

Standing over 11½ feet tall and weighing 6½

tons it wasn't long before Jumbo was the

fascination of America. Billed as a friend to the


children of the world, Jumbo's appearances

grossed more than USD 300,000 after only six

weeks in the States, and was Barnum and

Bailey's major attraction for over three years

until the elephant's accidental death. But the

tradition of using elephants in the circus had

begun, and in 1883 Barnum famously offered

to test the Brooklyn Bridge, which had just

opened, by having elephants walk across it.

The authorities turned him down, but a year

later, in a publicity stunt worthy of Barnum,

elephants and other animals marched across

the bridge anyway. Thus began the ritual

parade of elephants through the Midtown

Tunnel to announce the arrival of the circus in

New York City. In 1887 an ageing Barnum

relinquished part control of the show's

management and the circus became officially

known as “The Barnum & Bailey Greatest

Show on Earth”.

Bailey continued the management of circus for

many years after Barnum's death in 1891,

touring Europe and the States and steadily

building upon the grandeur of the production,

travelling with 28 rail cars, employing over

1,000 people, introducing 5 rings, creating

elaborate animated floats and wagons, and

incorporating modern acts. However by the

beginning of the 19 th century, Bailey's rivals,

the Ringling brothers, were as grand a

production in scale and pageantry as the

Barnum & Bailey show. After Bailey's death in

1906 his circus continued without a namesake

at the helm, making the Ringling brothers the

new kings of the circus world. A year later in

July 1907 they purchased the Barnum & Bailey

show and rights. In 1919, 28 years after

Barnum's death, the shows combined and

became known as “Ringling Bros. and Barnum

& Bailey Combined Shows, The Greatest Show

on Earth.” The circus survived the great

depression, two world wars and the new media

of its time, including radio, film and television.

American businessman Irvin Feld acquired

Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey for USD 8

million on 11 th November 1967, and marked the

occasion with a ceremony held at the



Colosseum in Rome. A year later the Ringling

Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Clown College

opened. Feld sold the circus to Mattel in 1971

for USD 50 million in Mattel stock but bought it

back from Mattel in 1982.

Feld Entertainment moved the circus around

the States by two simultaneously travelling

mile-long trains, the Red Unit and the Blue

Unit. Each train was almost 5,000ft in length

comprising more than 55 cars weighing a total

of 4,000 tons, and included everything from

school rooms to animal cars, a diner-like

restaurant known as “the Pie Car“, plus 33

conventional passenger coaches for circus

personnel and their families. Around 250

people – performers, train crew members,

porters, cooks, stagehands – lived year round

on each train as they crisscrossed the country

performing to an estimated 10 million people

each year.

Still rooted in its 19 th century traditions with a

dash of the modern mixed in, clowns flopped,

trapeze artists flew, wild animals jumped,

contortionists bent, horses galloped, tightrope

walkers wobbled and elephants balanced. But

in recent years, the “Greatest Show on Earth”

increasingly found itself in conflict with

changing times, values and tastes. Families

went out less together. Kids preferred to stare

at tiny screens. Animal-rights activists

opposed the long circus tradition of wild

beasts, objectified and tamed and performing

tricks for a crowd. And the cost of everything,

from tiger food to liability insurance,

sky-rocketed. The casts were huge. The

musicians were all live. Although the crowd

could still be counted in thousands the shows

were rarely full, and so the circus tried to

change with the times. Acts were bought in

from all over the world. But ticket sales, which

had been declining for a decade, markedly

plummeted last year when the ageing

elephants left the ring for the last time. Feld

Entertainment spent years battling animal

rights groups and accusations of elephant

abuse. But even after the circus’ 40 Asian

elephants were retired to Ringling’s 200-acre


Center for Elephant Conservation in Florida,

the animal rights protestors – who had billed

the production as "the saddest show on earth”

– merely moved on to the continued use of big

cats in the show, along with the dogs, sheep,

llamas, kangaroos, horses and the rest of the

travelling menagerie.

Eventually high operating costs coupled with

plummeting attendances after the elephants

were phased out made the circus

unsustainable. Basically the business model

no longer worked, and so in January of this

year, Kenneth Feld, the CEO of Feld

Entertainment, the producer of Ringling,

announced that the circus would hold its final

performances in May 2017. The massive

travelling circus, which elated crowds from

small towns to big cities across America with

its exotic animals and death-defying feats,

was to end its 146-year run. While circus

performers and enthusiasts lamented the

shutting down of “The Greatest Show on

Earth”, animal rights activists who had sparred

with Ringling for years said the end could not

come soon enough.

In its prime Ringling was an enormous operation.

Its three-ring tent seated 12,000 people,

featured two stages and depending on where

you sat you could see a completely different

show. It was that big. Back in the day, when the

circus came to town, it really was like a holiday.

Ringling's absence leaves about two dozen

circuses left on America’s roads, of various

sizes and formats - some three-ring, some

one-ring. But the circuses which are left are a

great deal more flexible than Ringling could be

with its vast trains and massive overheads.

Whether they will survive in years to come

remains to be seen, but the veritable

grandparent of the circus art form, and many

other kinds of modern live entertainment,

Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey, has sadly

folded its big tent forever.

WATCH THE FINAL 21 ST MAY 2017 PERFORMANCE OF

RINGLING BROS. AND BARNUM & BAILEY CIRCUS



GLOBETROTTER

GAVIN RAJAH

SINCE LAUNCHING HIS EPONYMOUS LABEL

IN 2000, GAVIN RAJAH HAS

DEMONSTRATED HIS AMPLE SKILLS FOR

ORIGINAL AND TECHNICALLY SUPERIOR

WORKMANSHIP BALANCED WITH

CREATIVITY AND COMMERCIAL SENSIBILITY,

MAKING HIS BRAND SYNONYMOUS WITH

FINE CRAFTSMANSHIP, LUXURIOUS

FINISHES AND DIVINE FABRICS. THE

RENOWNED SOUTH AFRICAN FASHION

DESIGNER CHATS EXCLUSIVELY WITH

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER


What would you say led a young South African boy to

develop a penchant for fashion?

The idea of creating something that was transformative for

an individual really appealed to me. I liked the fact that

people could wear something and it could change the way

they felt about themselves. I wanted to create a world that

was in some way a utopic vision filled with beautiful things

(I soon realised that was not a viable proposition). The

more I ventured out of South Africa I realised people

appreciated the craftsmanship and aesthetic around the

clothes I was making.

Please tell us a little bit about what it was like to be a child

in the Rajah household.

I was constantly busy with music classes, art classes and a

host of extra curricular activities. When I was younger I

always thought that I would become a musician, but the

thought of practising the piano night and day wore thin

after a while. I was exceptionally opinionated and quite

talkative.

What prompted your move from Durban to Cape Town?

My studies at the University of Cape Town.

You studied law at university. How did your fashion career

come about?

I was an unhappy young lawyer since – with an unjust

legal system and apartheid still around – it was a

disheartening time to practise law. One day a friend told

me that I needed to do something that made me feel

happy and feel like I had purpose. Whilst at university I

sold clothes that were rejects from my dad’s clothing

business to make extra pocket money. I extended that to

making a few simple pieces through a seamstress I had

met which I would sell. One thing led to another and girl

friends asked me to help remodel their prom dresses.

Eventually I could remodel them no more and would

sketch what I thought they should wear. It was then that I

really started to dress women and I enjoyed how happy

people felt when they bought something from me. I learnt

everything from people around me, by immersing myself

into the production of clothing, and, having observed my

dad for many years working in the clothing industry, I

somehow recalled a lot of his skills. One thing that has

remained is my absolute eye for detail and my hands-on

approach – I think this is because I learnt every part of

the garment making process, and my standards were

very high from the outset since I was determined to not

be mediocre.



What was the pivotal moment when you decided that the

fashion industry was to be your future and you basically

went for it?

When people wanted to buy my pieces and were willing to

pay the prices I was asking. I was hell bent on not being a

struggling designer and was serious about my transition to

the fashion industry. Luckily I also started being featured in

lots of media.

Which part of the garment production process do you most

enjoy?

I like the actual design part coupled with the construction

process.

What would you say sets you apart from other international

designers at your level?

Our studio is very labour intensive when it comes to hand

finishing and embellishing so we effectively own all of

these processes in house. Basically we still do things the

old school way in our atelier. I equate luxury to hand

finishing or making something by hand – this lends an

emotional connection to the garments. We are able to do

this because we have a highly skilled work force and the

rand is weaker against foreign currency so we are

competitive in the extreme.

What was the first notable fashion achievement that set

you on the extraordinary journey of success you are on

today?

Being asked to show during Couture Fashion Week in Paris

by Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture - the French

trade association of high fashion. Whilst daunting I

suddenly realised that this was ‘it’.

Tell us about the Gavin Rajah woman and how wearing

one of your creations makes her feel?

I like to think that she ‘wears’ the garments and not the

other way around. I love women who feel empowered

wearing clothes without compromising on their femininity.

How do you source fabrics and what are your favourite

types to work with?

We often have fabrics made for us. I love having custom

made embroidered fabrics made for our collections. I

simply adore silk, embroidery and beading.

Visiting which country or continent provides you with the

most creative stimulation and ideas for new collections?

All travel is inspiring for me. Terrain, people, culture,

literature and art inspire me. I love Europe and Asia since

they have such rich, diverse cultural legacies to draw

inspiration from.

When designing a bespoke gown for a client, which part of

the process takes the most time and care to get just right?

Understanding the client’s goal and in what context she

will be wearing the garment. We always try to bring

something of the client’s style and/or personality into a

bespoke garment.

Tell us about meeting Nelson Mandela.

I had the privilege to work with him on some of the work of

the Nelson Mandela Foundation, and have always been

involved in his fundraising activities. He was an inspiring

man, very visionary and was a great mentor.

Who has been the most fun and professional supermodel

you’ve worked with?

Most definitely Naomi Campbell. She has a wicked sense of

humour and is always up for a challenge. She is also one of

the most compassionate and caring people I know.

What would you say are the essential elements of the

Gavin Rajah brand’s DNA?

Femininity, craftsmanship and pure unadulterated luxury.

What is the most lavish or extravagant gown you’ve ever

designed and for whom?

Probably a wedding dress for a client. We sourced fabrics

from Europe and it took over 8 months of embroidery to

create the finished product. We do not mention our clients

– couture is a world shrouded in secrecy I have learnt.

Will you ever design menswear?

I have but it’s not our core focus. It requires a whole new

atelier and there are simply not enough hours in the day for

me at present.

Please tell us about your work for the past decade as a

UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador.

My work with UNICEF is about raising the profile of

children’s causes. In particular I focus on violence against

children, child sex abuse and child trafficking. These are

not the popular poster causes that people want to see or

confront. Somehow it makes people uncomfortable. I

choose to champion crusades against these social evils.

Over the last decade I have worked to initiate #endviolence

campaigns in South Africa, including raising funds to build

child sex abuse clinics and petitioning the government to

foster changes in legislation.

How do you use fashion to raise awareness of kids from

vulnerable communities?

Instead of using the visibility I have to gain the best seats

at restaurants or preferential treatment I use it to bring

visibility to these issues and use my shows as a platform to

raise awareness of kids from vulnerable communities. I add

delicate metaphors on my garments that are not obvious

but contain meanings that unfold once I articulate the

social concerns with press and clients. I also use fashion to

raise funds for these causes. Part of the proceeds from my

sales goes to various charitable causes.

Choosing fashion as a career is fraught with challenges.

What advice would you give to aspiring young designers?

Think carefully before choosing this path since it is not for

the faint hearted! Fashion is a largely unregulated

profession and to be immersed in it requires tenacity and

sheer determination, not to mention talent. Be brutal with

yourself – just because you like fashion doesn’t mean

you’re a designer, and often vice versa. Creating a brand

takes money and you really have to fight to instil

confidence in your buyers and clients.

Travel is becoming increasingly easier and so we are

hearing the term “Destination Couture” used more

frequently. Your thoughts?

I am au fait with this as it’s a huge part of our business.

Clients fly in, get measured and have their toiles made, and

once we have perfected the fit and proportions they fly out.

We are then on call to make special occasion wear. It suits

many clients to have this ‘secret’ place where they can

indulge in their couture fantasies.

Please name-check one talented young African designer to

look out for.

Mozambican Taibo Bacar is a talented designer with a

great aesthetic.

What makes Cape Town such a special place for you to live

and work?

It’s maverick, has an irreverent sense of style and a

particular ethos that is hard to find elsewhere. Africa has

unique warmth found in its people but not easily found

elsewhere - Cape Town possesses both that warmth and

authenticity.


Your most memorable vacations to date and what made

them so special?

Six Senses Samui, made up of just 66 private villas, many

with personal pools, is an eco resort that infuses a lot of

chic into the word ‘eco’. Ensconced in a private villa with a

butler for whom no request was too much, left me feeling

refreshed and wanting more.

Langham Place, New York is a true oasis in the heart of

bustling Manhattan. From its spacious guests rooms to its

upscale bar and multiple culinary offerings – returning to

this hotel was bliss after being out for a day on New York’s

streets or crashing after a night out. The staff are simply

amazing.

What is your favourite hotel in the world and why?

Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris, not just because the linen

and beds engulf you, but also the high level of service and

the fact that the staff take a keen interest in making sure

guests are well looked after.

How does Gavin Rajah wind down after a long day in his

atelier?

Work, work and more work. If I do not have any social

engagements that relate to work or my charitable causes I

work from my study at home. I am also a huge sucker for

reading and watching inspiring documentaries. Recently I

have been appointed to the Advisory Board for Africa for

Harvard University so I find myself engaged in projects that

have the potential to transform young minds. Doing a lot of

this from my bed (I am obsessed with great linen) makes it

all relaxing!

If you could only take six items onto a plane what would

they be?

HANRO sleep suit, Loro Piana cashmere inflatable airplane

neck pillow, Kiehl's In-Flight Refreshing Facial Mist, iPad,

iPhone and Wanderlust Air Travel Socks.

Your greatest career achievement to date?

Everyday is an achievement. You are only as good as your

last thing. I think if you can wake up everyday and love

doing what you do and find that it has purpose and

meaning then that itself is the greatest achievement.

What’s next for Gavin Rajah?

We launch a home furnishings collection on 9 th November

2017 about which we are really excited, together with a

home fragrance range.

www.gavinrajah.com


A

AGUA DE MAR www.aguademar.com

ALQUÍMICO www.alquimico.com

AMARONE www.restaurantamarone.nl

B

BALLROOM www.ballroomrotterdam.nl

BAR TENDER www.bar-tender.nl

C

CAFÉ DEL MAR

www.facebook.com/cafedelmarcartagena

CAFÉ HAVANA www.cafehavanacartagena.com

CAFÉ LABRU www.supermercadorotterdam.nl

CHARMING HOUSE www.thecharminghouse.com

CITY GUIDE ROTTERDAM www.cityguiderotterdam.com

COCO HOUSE RESTAURANT

www.facebook.com/CocoHouseRestaurant

CUBE HOUSES

www.en.rotterdam.info/locations/kijk-kubus-1

D

DE BIJENKORF www.debijenkorf.nl

DE WITTE AAP www.facebook.com/dewitteaap

DEPOT ROTTERDAM www.depotrotterdam.nl

E

EL BOLICHE CEBICHERÍA

www.facebook.com/elbolichecebicheria

EUROMAST www.euromast.nl

F

FG www.fgrestaurant.nl/en

G

GABRIEL GARCÍA MÁRQUEZ TOUR

www.tierramagna.com/en/cartagena-de-gabo/

GAVIN RAJAH www.gavinrajah.com

GELATERIA PARADISO

www.facebook.com/gelateriaparadiso

GETSEMANÍ www.demente.com.co

H

HOTEL NEW YORK www.hotelnewyork.com

I

INDIAN ACCENT www.indianaccent.com

ISLAND BAR www.facebook.com/IslandBarSiemReap

ITZ’ANA RESORT http://itzanabelize.com/resort/

J

JOELIA www.joelia.eu

K

KANTHA BOPHA CHILDREN'S HOSPITALS

www.beat-richner.ch

KATAMAMA www.katamama.com

KUNSTHAL www.kunsthal.nl/en

L

LAURENSKERK www.laurenskerkrotterdam.nl

M

MAISON ALBAR HOTEL PARIS CÉLINE

www.maison-albar-hotel-paris-celine.com

MANDARIN ORIENTAL TOKYO

www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo

MARGREETH OLSTHOORN

www.shop.margreetholsthoorn.nl

MARÍA www.mariacartagena.com

MARKTHAL www.markthal.nl/en

MEENT http://www.meent.nl

MOVICH ROOFTOP

www.movichhotels.com/eng/cartagena/movich-cartagen

adeindias/

MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN www.boijmans.nl

N

NY BASEMENT www.nybasement.nl

P

PALÁCIO TANGARÁ www.palaciotangara.com/eng

PARKHEUVEL www.parkheuvel.nl

POFFERTJESSALON SETH www.poffertjessalonseth.nl

Q

QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA

www.qasralsarab.anantara.com

R

ROTTERDAM MARRIOTT HOTEL

www.marriottrotterdam.com

ROTTERDAM WELCOME CARD

www.rotterdamwelcomecard.com

S

SAN ALBERTO CAFÉ www.cafesanalberto.com/en/

SANTANI www.santani.lk

SIR ALBERT www.siralberthotel.com

SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON www.sixsenses.com/zil-pasyon

SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA

www.sofitel-legend.com/cartagena/en/

SONEVA JANI www.soneva.com/soneva-jani

SPIDO CRUISES www.spido.nl

SS ROTTERDAM www.ssrotterdam.com

SUPERMERCADO www.supermercadorotterdam.nl

T

TAMBURLAINE www.thetamburlaine.co.uk

TATEL www.tatelrestaurants.com

THE CENTRAL BOUTIQUE ANGKOR HOTEL

www.centralboutiqueangkorhotel.com

THE SAXON www.saxon.co.za

THE STIRR www.thestirr.nl

THE SUICIDE CLUB www.thesuicideclub.nl

THE VIP ROOM www.theviproom.eu

THE WHITBY

www.firmdalehotels.com/hotels/new-york/the-whitbyhotel/

TRAVEL CAMBODIA www.travelcambodia.com

V

VAN OLDENBARNEVELTSTRAAT

www.oldenbarneveltstraatrotterdam.nl

VISIT ANGKOR www.visit-angkor.org

W

WITTE DE WITH CENTER FOR CONTEMPORARY ART

www.wdw.nl/en/

WORM www.worm.org

WUNDERBAR www.worm.org/venues/wunderbar/


(17) The Cultured Traveller, June-July 2017 Issue 17

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