(14) The Cultured Traveller, December-January 2016-17 Issue 14

ISSUE 14

DEC-JAN 2016-17

www.sooribali.com

HIGHLIGHTS

DEC-JAN 2016-17

68 SUITE ENVY

In the west of India bordering the Arabian Sea, GOA is

synonymous with society dropouts and backpackers who

routinely party ‘til dawn. But Nicholas Chrisostomou

discovers that the holiday scene has gone distinctly

upmarket, when he stays in a presidential suite fit for

royalty, within a luxe hospitality haven – minus the hippies.

110 DOHA’S BEST RESTAURANTS

In a special 18-page feature, dedicated foodie Dawn

Gibson rounds up the finest eateries in DOHA, capital

city of one of the wealthiest countries in the world and

host of the 2022 FIFA World Cup.

26 SEGERA RETREAT

Visiting 50,000-acre Segera in the heart of the Kenyan

plains is to experience utter luxury amidst spectacular

natural beauty, enjoy personal enrichment from

conscientious vacationing, and feel like a guest in the

home of the retreat’s founder, Jochen Zeitz, former CEO

of Puma.

76 THE CULTURED CHAT

Scottish-born 2002 Hotelier of the Year, GORDON

CAMPBELL GRAY, has never been busier. The Cultured

Traveller chats with the luxury hotelier who created One

Aldwych, Carlisle Bay and Le Gray, as he sets off on yet

another hospitality journey.

82 WORLD’S BEST AIRPORT

It might not be the largest, most expensive or busiest

airport in the world, but SINGAPORE CHANGI has been

voted the Skytrax World's Best Airport for the past four

years, so The Cultured Traveller takes a look inside.

STADSHUSET, STOCKHOLM

10 PRIZE DRAW

Win a weekend stay in the USD 4,000/night 260m 2

Presidential Suite at Istanbul’s top city-centre resort,

5-minutes from Taksim Square, the 360-room GRAND

HYATT ISTANBUL, which boasts arguably the best hotel

swimming pool in town.

Dec-Jan 2016-17 The Cultured Traveller 05

CONTENTS

10

16

08 EDITOR’S LETTER

12 NEWSFLASH

The Cultured Traveller’s rounds up the

must see events, seasonal

happenings and festivals taking place

around the globe in December 2016

and January 2017, including the

BILLABONG PIPE MASTERS in Hawaii,

ALTITUDE COMEDY FESTIVAL in

Mayrhofen, RHYTHM & VINES in New

Zealand and the world's largest beach

party, RÉVEILLON on Copacabana

Beach on New Year’s Eve.

76 68

Narmada River; and elegant hybrid

ryokan-hotel HOSHINOYA, set in

tranquil woodland just outside Kyoto.

37 CITY FOCUS

Alex Benasuli is enthralled by the

picturesque Swedish capital of

STOCKHOLM, where modernity meets

tranquility, and fashionable

restaurants, happening nightclubs and

a burgeoning foodie scene sit naturally

in an idyllic Scandinavian metropolitan

archipelago, surrounded by forests and

abundant countryside.

12

16 REST YOUR HEAD

Our dozen hand-picked hotels

featured in this edition, include the

former holiday estate of French

billionaire Didier Primat, DOMAINE

DES ÉTANGS; stunning 18 th century

Indian stronghold-turned-hotel

AHILYA FORT on the banks of

85 SKY BRIEF

Don’t miss our round up of hot air travel

news, including RICHARD BRANSON

investing in new supersonic passenger

jet, BOOM, New York fashion designer

ZAC POSEN’s new outfits for Delta, and

Great Britain’s national flag carrier’s

new tipple, BRITISH AIRWAYS GIN.

37 85

85

06 The Cultured Traveller Dec-Jan 2016-17

86

110

86 NO SHOES REQUIRED

Far from the madding crowd and just

an hour’s drive from Bali’s built-up

tourist centres, Nicholas

Chrisostomou discovers the magical

44-suite destination resort of SOORI

BALI, set in a lush undamaged corner

of the popular Indonesian island.

97 SPOTLIGHT

In the heart of the German capital of

Berlin, Alex Benasuli explores unique

hospitality haven, DAS STUE, which

skillfully blends contemporary luxury

with artistic accents in every creative

nook and cranny.

102 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Sam Henderson, explores the Motor

City of DETROIT, the largest city in the

American state of Michigan, and gives

us her insider lowdown on the iconic

metropolis very much back and on the

up-and-up.

128 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

The Cultured Traveller interviews

BRANDON BLOCK, once a shy Jewish

boy from Wembley, whose meteoric

rise to global DJ fame saw him become

a hedonistic Balearic legend, and one

of the founding fathers of the fabled

terrace at iconic Ibithincan club, Space

Ibiza.

134 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

It's that time of the year (again!),

when the holiday season is looming

and suitably fabulous parcels must be

dished out to those nearest and

dearest. But fear not, because The

Cultured Traveller's CHRISTMAS GIFTS

ROUND UP is sure to make many

faces smile on the morning of Sunday

25 th December 2016.

128

97

134

102

BALI

STOCKHOLM

DETROIT

EDITOR’S LETTER

As the festive season approaches, it's not just time to think about prezzies for family and friends, or

where you'll be spending the big day (or in my case whether I'll be roasting turkey or goose), but

also where you fancy travelling in 2017. As we get older, many of us tend to become more habitual,

and the tendency is to go for the safe bet or somewhere we've vacationed before. There are so

many incredible locations on our planet that it would be a crying shame not to experience

somewhere new.

Even prior to launching The Cultured Traveller, I had a rule to visit at least two new destinations

a year. Obviously it's becoming harder year-in-year-out, but my present to myself this Christmas

will be to visit Israel, the Maldives and Iran in 2017, plus either Peru or the Dominican Republic. Watch this space to see where I get off

to and which exotic locale makes it onto the cover!

In this edition, issue 14 sees Alex Benasuli explore the enthralling Swedish capital of Stockholm; set in an idyllic archipelago

surrounded by water and forests, it’s home to wonderful architecture and everything else you'd expect from a happening

Scandinavian metropolis (p 37). By complete contrast, our newest contributor, Samantha Henderson, visits the renowned Motor City of

Detroit, scene of the largest municipal insolvency in American history but now very much back and on the up-and-up (p 102). Dawn

Gibson does a culinary recce of the 2022 FIFA World Cup host city and serves us a special 20-page feature about the best places to

dine in Doha, Qatar (p 110). Meanwhile I managed to find a place of sanctuary on the somewhat touristy Indonesian island of Bali,

where I could have happily spent all summer (p 86).

The Cultured Traveller also interviews Brandon Block, once a shy Jewish boy from Wembley, whose much-documented rise to

global DJ fame saw him co-found the fabled terrace at iconic Balearic club Space Ibiza (p 128). There are numerous other features and

insider tips to be found this issue, but for those panicking about what to buy the person who has everything, we've also compiled a

capsule Christmas gift round up which will hopefully relieve some of the shopping stress (p 134).

Tis the season to be jolly and I always think it's more

important to have fun on 25 th December than make the

table look amazing. If you can do both, good on you, but

don't kill yourself in the process of trying to achieve

Christmas Day perfection. It's meant to be a holiday after all!

BRANDON BLOCK

IDAM

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief

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CONTRIBUTORS

Alex Benasuli

City Focus on Stockholm

Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in

New York City, he would accompany his family every summer on

visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful

two-decade career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico,

Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East.

Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher,

Alex has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow

urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations

and experiences.

Ashlee Starratt

Rest Your Head

Ashlee Starratt is a Canadian editor and journalist based out of

Doha, Qatar. With a passion for story-telling, if it’s lifestyle, wellness,

travel or food, she’s probably written about it. With a background in

print media and television across Canada and the Middle East,

Ashlee has worked as Editorial Director for Qatar Happening and

ABODE magazines, as a reporter, videographer and host for

www.haligonia.ca, and as a producer for Pink Dog Productions out

of Halifax, Nova Scotia. She can be found on her travels, collecting

stamps in her passport, in search of stories that need to be told.

Sam Henderson

Traveller Lowdown on Detroit

Travelling is a passion, hobby and way of life for born globetrotter

Sam Henderson. She has lived in and travelled throughout

Germany, Ukraine and Japan, can speak their mother tongues, and

is a pro at setting-up home in foreign climes. In 2006 she

ventured round the world to Canada, the States, Western Samoa,

New Zealand, Australia and South Africa with her husband and

two children. Right now Sam is again on the road, this time for a

year with her three kids (aged 9, 11 and 13) driving across the USA

from coast to coast, then on to various Asia Pacific destinations.

Dawn Gibson

Doha's Best Restaurants

Dawn Gibson is a multi-tasking journalist who is passionate

about travel, fashion, food, culture and the arts. Never happier

than when about to board a plane en route to a far-flung part of

the globe, she is also a keen scuba diver always in search of the

perfect coral reef. Dawn has worked as a senior news reporter for

a leading city daily newspaper in Australia and as editor for a

glossy lifestyle magazine in the Middle East. Her work has

appeared in numerous international print and online publications,

including Qatar Airways’ first class magazine Oryx Premium.


WIN A TWO NIGHT STAY IN THE PRESIDEN

Grand Hyatt Istanbul's spectacular 240m 2 Presidential Suite is the hotel's

largest accommodation and boasts spectacular views of the Bosphorus.

Situated on a private concierge floor, this sumptuous suite offers a

separate living room, formal dining area, kitchen, master bedroom with

oversized wooden sleigh bed, office with high-speed internet, and a

deluxe marble spa bathroom complete with sauna and Jacuzzi tub. This

incredible two-night prize worth USD 8,000 not only includes breakfast

every morning, but also access to the hotel’s exclusive Grand Club

lounge, which serves complimentary drinks and snacks all day, plus

cocktails, wines and canapés for two hours every evening. Wi-Fi and a

2pm lazy checkout on day three are also included.

Boasting arguably the best swimming pool in the city, plus tennis courts, secluded

manicured gardens, a full-service spa, large well-equipped gym, yoga studio, Turkish

bath and a selection of bars and restaurants, the 360-room Grand Hyatt Istanbul is a

veritable resort hotel located in the very heart of the bustling metropolis. Rarely does one

find such extensive facilities in a city centre property. Located near Taksim Square and

Istiklal Street - close enough to grab a map from concierge and set off to explore on foot

- this five-star resort hotel is immersed in the downtown epicentre of modern Istanbul,

just a stone’s throw from the city’s thriving nightlife and shopping districts, yet a complete

oasis of calm and class once through it’s gracious doors and vast, soaring marble lobby.

Of the hotel’s many food and beverage offerings, two restaurants are standout: Restaurant

34 is a multi-cuisine dining destination, offering five different concepts in one location,

including a chef’s table where guests can feast on expertly prepared foods arranged in front

of their eyes, and a specialist charcuterie and cheese room. Hori brings the spirit of traditional

Japanese restaurants to Istanbul with a unique menu and authentic Oriental ambience, and

enjoys its own traditional Tatami room as well as a variety of private dining areas for special

occasions. After dinner, The Library Bar is the perfect setting for a glass of champagne or fine

cognac, evoking the style and class of a traditional English gentlemen’s club.

ISTANBUL.GRAND.HYATT.COM

FACEBOOK.COM/GRANDHYATTISTANBUL • INSTAGRAM.COM/GRANDHYATTISTANBUL

To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city

email and mobile number) to WIN@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM

Prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw will take place after

31 st January 2017 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used until 30 th November 2017, is not

transferable, and is subject to availability of the Presidential Suite at Grand Hyatt Istanbul. The Cultured Traveller will

not share your contact details with third parties.


PRIZE DRAW

TIAL SUITE AT GRAND HYATT ISTANBUL

PRIZE

PRIZE

WORTH

USD 8,000

PRESIDENTIAL SUITE


ART BASEL

MIAMI BEACH

USA

Since first launching in

2002 (long after the

original fair was christened in

Switzerland in 1970), Art Basel Miami

Beach has created such an art-drenched

ecosystem full of diversity, that there’s

something for just about everyone at this

four-day artistic spectacle, which

completely takes over the famous

beachfront Florida city. While the fair's

epicentre is the Miami Beach Convention

Centre, there are literally dozens of

offshoots, offbeat and off-center

exhibitions, films, performances and

shows throughout the city. For 2016,

more than 250 leading galleries from

North America, Latin America, Europe,

Asia and Africa will show paintings,

sculptures, installations, photographs

and editioned works of the highest

quality, produced by masters of the

modern and contemporary art world.

Meanwhile, numerous works by the

genre's new generation of emerging

stars will also be showcased, many of

which are infinitely more affordable than

the works on sale by big named artists.

1–4 December 2016

www.artbasel.com


SOMERSET

HOUSE SKATING

UK

The grand Edmond J. Safra

Fountain Court at Somerset

House is the setting for what must be

one of Europe's most stunning locations

for ice skating during the festive

season. No matter how impressive (or

amateur) your skating skills, a visit to

this 900 metre square outdoor rink will

look the very picture of glamour and

fun in your Christmas photos! Skate by

day and enjoy a perfect winter

afternoon at London’s most beautiful

ice rink, or skate by night to a backdrop

of music provided by top international

DJs at one of Somerset House's

exclusive themed club nights. Relax

après-skate at Fortnum & Mason's

Lodge in the west wing of Somerset

House, or shop for pressies at the

pop-up Christmas arcade. For a little

post-skate indulgence, sip champagne

and nibble on Fortnum’s Marc de

Champagne chocolate truffles, or warm

your cockles with a classic Swiss

cheese fondue for two, paired with a

specially selected wine.

17 November 2016–15 January 2017

www.somerset.org.uk

FRANKFURT

XMAS MARKET

GERMANY

Many German cities and

towns have a scenic

backdrop of historic houses and

beautiful squares for their

Weihnachtsmärkte. However, dating

back to 1393, Frankfurt's Christmas

market is one of the oldest in the

country and the scenery and

atmosphere is uniquely enchanting.

Officially opened by the city's mayor on

23 rd November, the elaborate and

lavish decorations, the scenic

surroundings of the Römerberg and St.

Paul's Square and the huge Christmas

tree in front of the Römer, all combine

to make Frankfurt's Weihnachtsmärkt

one of Germany's most beautiful,

stretching from Zeil shopping mall to

BILLABONG PIPE

MASTERS

HAWAII

The Billabong Pipe Masters

is the last stop on the 2016

Men’s Championship Tour, designed to

foster world-class performances around

the globe, from Europe to the South

Pacific. One of the ten most deadly

waves in the world, Hawaii’s Banzai

Pipeline is famous for its heavy swells

that can reach up to 30ft, breaking over

shallow, rocky coral reefs at high speeds

to form barreling curls of water. Not only

is it the perfect wave for those willing to

charge, but also for onlookers on the

beach watching the incredible spectacle.

Part of the allure of the Pipe Masters is

that with surfing perfection occasionally

come devastating consequences. The

Banzai Pipeline is arguably one of the

most dangerous waves on the planet,

and has claimed more lives than any

other wave in the world, on average one

fatality a year, not to mention numerous

injuries and broken boards.

8–20 December 2016

www.surfinglife.com.au

the Römerberg and down to the river

Main. With more than 200 beautifully

decorated stalls vying for the throng's

attention, and the scent of roast

chestnuts, mulled wine and grilled

sausages filling the air, it's impossible

to resist sipping on hot apple wine

with cinnamon and cloves, or treating

yourself to some Bethmännchen

almond candies.

23 November–22 December 2016

www.frankfurt-tourismus.de

ALTITUDE

COMEDY FESTIVAL

AUSTRIA

Combining comedy and

skiing, as long as you have

a sense of humour and appreciate a

joker or two, you’ll love this annual

high altitude humourfest in

Mayrhofen, which is basically a load of

adults rolling around laughing in the

Austrian snow. During Altitude, the

hills are alive with the sound of

laughter, and the world's biggest

comedians perform six days of three

live shows. The first daily show -

known as the Après Ski set - starts at

5pm (just after the lifts close), and is a

raucous affair that takes place in the

centrally located Hotel Strass.

Attracting some of the best in the

business, The Gala Show is the main

nightly event, where four comics

perform in the 750-seat Europahaus

theatre. For those with serious comedy

(and drinking) stamina, there’s a

nightly Late Show kicking-off at

11.30pm, where the jokes (and

heckling) get dirtier in the wee hours.

New for 2016 is Altitude's

#LightUpMayrhofen, a dazzling

festival of lights for one night only

during the hysterical proceedings.

11–17 December 2016

www.altitudefestival.com

SUNBURN 10

INDIA

“Live love dance” is the motto of Sunburn, India's famous electronic

dance music festival, held in various locations around the globe,

culminating in the biggest annual event which takes place just after Christmas and

before NYE in Goa. Sunburn is a carefully crafted combination of music, food,

shopping and EDM entertainment, spread over four days and late nights, and the

handpicked line-up of artists showcases some of the world’s top disc jockeys

alongside local DJ'ing talent. Some of the industry's biggest names in dance music

have performed at Sunburn, including Swedish House Mafia, Armin Van Buuren,

Axwell, Tiesto, Paul Van Dyk, Avicii and Pete Tong. Last year David Guetta played the

closing night party, and this year's gathering, Sunburn's 10th birthday, promises to

be bigger than ever before. Festivalgoers can also let loose with a range of

adrenaline-powered activities, including bungee jumping and zorbing, completing

the ultimate music-driven vacation experience.

27–30 December 2016 www.sunburn.in

RÉVEILLON

BRAZIL

Arguably the world's largest beach party, with more than 2 million

people routinely participating in this annual NYE bash, Rio's famous

Copacabana is the setting for Réveillon, where Brazilians bid farewell to the old year

with style and music on the beach's famed sands. An eclectic mix of religion,

tradition, superstition and fiesta, Réveillon borrows its name from the French and

its religion from Africa, the most iconic part of Réveillon being its all-white dress

code, symbolising purity, peace and renewal, whilst appeasing Yemanjá, goddess of

the sea. In traditional Latin America fashion, the early evening is usually a relatively

calm affair, with families and friends gathering to feast and drink. Live international

bands line Avenue Atlantica, which starts to rumble from around 8pm. Come

midnight one of the world’s largest fireworks displays - launched from barges lining

the entire beach so everyone has a front row seat - kicks off the real party. For

those that can't handle the immense crowds, buy a pricey ticket to one of the hip

parties staged in the high-rise blocks that line the beach (one of the best is Hotel

Fasano's party), and get a bird's eye view of the colossal pyrotechnic display.

Needless the say the party continues throughout the first day of the New Year.

31 December 2016–1 January 2017 www.facebook.com/copacabanareveillon


RHYTHM & VINES

NEW ZEALAND

Sorry Sydney Harbour, but

the first place in the world

to welcome the first sunrise of the New

Year is New Zealand, and what better

place to do it than Rhythm & Vines, the

country's annual, award-winning

music festival, held at Waiohika Estate

family vineyard (hence the "vines" in

the event name), not far from the city of

Gisborne. The line-up is spread across

four days on five stages and past

headliners have included Calvin Harris

and Mark Ronson. It's rumoured that

famed Detroit rapper, Eminem, will be

headlining this years R&V, which will be

the 8-Mile star's first journey to New

Zealand since 2014. Eminem will be

joined by the likes of Chance The

Rapper, Savage and countless DJ's

hailing from all over the world.

Premium accommodation options

including onsite glamping and teepees

(set in a cute village), and buying a

Vintage Club Premium Pass will get you

access to a VIP bar, various experiential

cocktail bars around the site and

special viewing platforms at the

Rhythm Supertop and Vines stages.

29 December 2016–1 January 2017

www.rhythmandvines.co.nz

ATI-ATIHAN

PHILIPPINES

Whilst Filipinos are known

worldwide for their

gracious hospitality and friendly

nature, this feast festival held

annually in January, in honor of the

Santo Niño (the Infant Jesus), allows

us a glimpse of their wild, colourful

and playful side, a facet of these

devout and thoughtful people rarely

seen in public. Ati-Atihan is a festival

of constant movement, drumming and

feasting - a non-stop riot of

exhibitionism, costume, music and

dance. Soot-black painted faces,

feather headdresses and animal

bones create a show-stopping visual

treat, and after days of relentless

drumming and festivities it's nigh on

impossible for even the most reluctant

traveller not to get covered in soot and

join the romping, all night closing

masquerade ball.

1–20 January 2017

www.facebook.com/kalibo-ati-atihan

THE BPM FESTIVAL

MEXICO

Set on Playa del Carmen's

stunning white sand

beaches, about 35 miles south of

Cancun, since its inception relatively

recently in 2008, BPM has grown very

rapidly into a destination EDM festival to

rival the summer scene on the Spanish

party island of Ibiza. BPM's humble

beginnings as a hospitality industry

event – to bring together bartenders,

promoters and musicians (hence

“BPM”) – is a far cry from todays

sprawling music gathering. More than

60,000 people from all over the globe,

fly into Mexico to soak up the tropical

Caribbean sun, drawn by a roster of

some of the world's most popular dance

music artists and DJs, 375 of whom

will perform in Playa del Carmen over

the festival's 10 days in 2017. Aside

from almost 100 official events,

divided into day and night shows

hosted by record labels, nightclubs

and promoters, revelers are also

drawn by numerous unofficial events,

parties and funky musical happenings

which pop-up throughout the festival.

6–15 January 2017

www.thebpmfestival.com

HARBIN ICE FESTIVAL

CHINA

With one of the most bitterly cold winters of all Chinese cities, Harbin is

known as the Ice City for its well-known winter tourism and recreations,

and its world famous ice and snow festival - the largest of its kind on the planet. It

takes 15,000 ice sculptors, artisans and workers, working painstakingly for 16 days,

cutting 120,000 cubic metres of ice blocks from Songhua River’s frozen surface, to

create the breathtaking illuminated iced sculptures and statues, plus full size

buildings and figures, dotted around the city. However, the main highlights are the

two main exhibition areas, namely Sun Island and Ice & Snow World. Ice slides and

festival food and drinks can be found in abundance in several parks and major

avenues in the city, as well as winter activities such as alpine skiing, snowmobile

driving, winter-swimming in the Songhua River, and the traditional ice-lantern

exhibition in Zhaolin Garden.

5 January–25 February 2017 www.icefestivalharbin.com


CARTAGENA

INTERNATIONAL

MUSIC FESTIVAL

COLOMBIA

For ten days each January,

the historic Colombian

walled city of Cartagena is completely

filled with music during the Festival

Internacional de Music. Under the

artistic direction of Charles

Wadsworth, renowned pianist and

creator of chamber music events

worldwide, festival concerts take place

in historic venues throughout the city,

including the Teatro Heredia and the

beautiful chapels of Hotel Santa Clara,

Santa Teresa, Iglesia de Santo Toribio

and the Plaza San Pedro Claver.

Cartagena opens some of its most

charming colonial spaces - indoors

and out - to the public for

performances by classical musicians

from around the world. As well as

countless live performances, the

festival runs master classes for young

artists. This year's performers include

celebrated Japanese-born American

violinist Midori Gotō, and famed

French cellist, Gautier Capuçon.

6–16 January 2017

www.cartagenamusicfestival.com

TIMKAT

ETHIOPIA

Celebrating the baptism of

Jesus Christ in the River

Jordan by John the Baptist, Timkat in

Gondar is the greatest festival for

Orthodox Christians in Ethiopia, and

the three-day affair is rich in colour,

comprising various ceremonies all

conducted with great pomp. On the

eve of Timkat, called Ketera, sacred

replicas of the Ark of the Covenant

(known as ‘tabots’), are wrapped in

luxurious cloth and placed on the

heads of priests to be carried out of the

church in procession with the clergy.

The pilgrimage halts just outside of the

city at Fasilides’ Bath, whereupon a

divine liturgy is celebrated at 2am,

attended by crowds who bring picnics

to enjoy by the light of oil lamps. At

dawn, a priest extinguishes a candle

burning on a pole set in a nearby river

using a ceremonial cross. Many in the

congregation leap into the river. The

tabots are then taken back to the

churches, escorted by horsemen, while

the festivities continue.

19 January 2017

WAKAKUSA

YAMAYAKI

JAPAN

Formerly a volcano and

rising 342 meters above

sea level, Mount Wakakusayama, in

the Japanese city of Nara, is the

location for this annual event held on

the fourth Saturday of January,

which sees the entire hill fired-up in

a controlled burn. Following a parade

that includes a giant rice cracker

tossing competition, a torch is lit

with sacred fire at Kasuga Taisha

Shrine. Buddhist monks then carry

this sacred fire down to a small

shrine at the foot of the hill. First,

interfaith members of Kofuku-ji,

Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha ignite the

hill with the sacred fire. Then

hundreds of fireworks are launched,

followed by the burning of the hill,

for roughly an hour, with the grasses

on the slopes blazing as if a red hell

were draped over the mountainside.

When all of Mount Wakakusayama is

eventually alight, like a mammoth

flickering torch, the fire can be seen

across the entire metropolis,

unsurprisingly.

21 January 2017

www.jnto.go.jp

QUÉBEC WINTER CARNIVAL

CANADA

Whilst most people spend the winter months doing their level best to

avoid ice and snow, the inhabitants of the picturesque French-speaking

province of Québec City do the very opposite and positively revel in the frigid

surroundings, celebrating the joie de vivre of carnival season in freezing, sub-zero

fashion at Carnaval de Québec. Québec City held its first large carnival in 1894, but

a consistent annual event was interrupted by two wars and an economic crisis,

before the first official edition of the Québec Winter Carnival took place sixty years

ago in 1955. The largest winter shindig in the world has been an annual event ever

since, comprising parades, an outdoor amusement park, giant ice slides, snow

sculpture competitions, and a lot of eating, drinking and being merry, plus more

traditional dogsled and canoe races. Not to be missed is the Ice Palace constructed

with bricks of compacted snow, and lit with coloured lights that it look like a giant,

iced dessert. 27 January–12 February 2017 www.carnaval.qc.ca


DOMAINE DES ÉTANGS

When one of France’s richest men, Didier Primat, died in

Geneva in 2008, the publicity-shy billionaire left behind,

amongst countless other assets, his holiday estate, Domaine

des Étangs. A bucolic 2,100-acre resort in South West

France, the Domaine is located three hours drive from Paris

and an easy drive from Cognac and Bordeaux. At its center,

the picturesque 11 th century honey-stone turreted château

cum castle, built in 1060, is complemented by manicured

gardens and expansive grounds, all nestled within the

somewhat remote and untouched Charente Limousine

region, largely comprising beautiful rolling countryside.

Primat bought the Domaine in 1986 and set about planting

orchards, buying pigs, chickens and quails, and then filling the

place with children. In every sitting room, dates marking

family events remain carved into the fireplaces, including the

day he and his partner Martine were married in front of their

eight offspring. By the time he died, Primat had lovingly and

carefully restored the estate's historic buildings and grounds,

creating “a big playground for the whole family,” recalls his

daughter Garance, the fourth of the eight siblings.


Rest Your Head

Massignac, Napa Valley, London, Maheshwar, Cappadocia, San José Del

Cabo, Laikipia Plateau, Beirut, Kyoto, Gstaad, Christophe Harbour, Rome

MASSIGNAC, FRANCE

Since her father died, Garance has worked – in

collaboration with French landscape designer, Camille

Muller, and architect, Isabelle Stanislas – to fulfill Primat's

dream of transforming the estate into a retreat for discerning

vacationers visiting from around the world. Finally, Garance

recently opened Domaine des Étangs as an exclusive and

lavish, yet warm and welcoming, hotel, albeit slightly

unconventional. The self-proclaimed largest 5-star resort in

mainland France, boasts seven suites in the château, six

freestanding farmhouse-style cottages (each with its own

lake, barbecue and rowing boat), a 40-seat Michelin-starred

gourmet restaurant, two swimming pools, a floating tennis

court and thermal Roman baths, not to mention seemingly

unending rambling hills, forests and lakes, all ripe for

exploration. Garance lured the estate’s talented French chef,

Fabien Beaufour, from Oblix restaurant in London’s Shard. A

spa and yoga centre – housed in an old water mill on the

largest of the lakes – will open next year.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.domainedesetangs.com


NAPA VALLEY, USA


AUBERGE DU SOLEIL

In the heart of California’s wine country

stands the ‘Inn of the Sun’ where, as its

namesake orb rises above the evergreen

hills and golden vineyards, time turns to

treacle. A slowing of the senses is in

order during a stay at the Auberge du

Soleil; a mindfulness that frees up the

spirit to truly appreciate the little

indulgences that have earned this resort

a holistic five stars.

Terraced along the hillside of a

33-acre olive grove, this signature

property from American luxury hotel

brand, Auberge Resorts, offers guests

seeking the ultimate private oasis a

selection of 50 sumptuous, stand-alone

maisons, in addition to its masterfully

appointed roster of deluxe rooms and

suites. With sweeping valley views and

warm décor, each maison is 1,800ft 2 of

back-to-nature opulence, complete with

private fitness studio, vast living area,

fireplace-dining alcove, al fresco tub and

rain-shower.

An adults-only resort, Auberge du

Soleil is home to an award-winning spa,

lush outdoor sculpture garden, and sets

itself apart through a commitment to

sustainable environmental practices and

preserving its native landscape. As you

wander through the olive trees at the spa,

be sure to note its courtyard centerpiece

– three stone fountains, transported from

a centuries-old French monastery. Their

focal point is aligned in the distance with

a singular mountaintop, in Napa Valley’s

one-of-a-kind Mount Veeder Appellation.

Gourmands can take a culinary

journey amid seasonal tastes and

sommelier’s pairings, at the resort’s

Michelin-starred namesake restaurant.

Founded 35 years ago as Napa’s first

fine-dining establishment, by innovative

restaurateur, Claude Rouas, the hotel has

continued his celebrated culinary

philosophy, as executive chef, Robert

Curry, brings the region’s abundant

richness to each and every plate.

ASHLEE STARRATT

www.aubergeresorts.com


CHRISTOPHE HARBOUR, ST. KITTS

PARK HYATT ST. KITTS

Already a popular port for superyachts, the West Indian island of St. Kitts will soon be an even more desirable destination for

billionaire boaters, who regularly visit the two-island Caribbean nation to revel in its intoxicating natural beauty, sunny skies,

warm waters and white sandy beaches. Sparkling new 2,500-acre luxury resort, Christophe Harbour, not only promises island

living guided by expert hands, authentic experiences based on Kittitian heritage, and rare Caribbean real estate opportunities, but

also an elaborate superyacht marina village, offering global yachters a glamorous new international dock to drop anchor, shop and

socialise. At its heart and slated to open in March 2017, is the 126-room 5-star deluxe Park Hyatt St. Kitts, set along the shores

of Christophe Harbour's Banana Bay and overlooking The Narrows, a strait separating St. Kitts and the volcanic isle of Nevis.

This will be premium Park Hyatt brand's first foray into the Caribbean market, and by all accounts the luxe property will deliver

an unrivalled hospitality experience to islanders and overseas visitors alike, nestled on a secluded area of private beach

surrounded by crystal clear waters. An extraordinary collaboration between some of the world's top architects, designers,

developers and hoteliers, has seen the original and sustainable design concept for Park Hyatt St. Kitts tap into the rich historical

roots of the island, resulting in the hotel being positioned as an intimate and contemporary residential environment, ideally

suited to discerning leisure travellers.

78 rooms and 48 suites, combining modern architecture with a timeless colonial feel, each with a private balcony or terrace,

will offer spectacular views of the beautiful surrounding landscape and Caribbean Sea. Meanwhile, a sprawling resort spa with

9 treatment rooms, will offer a full range of facial and body treatments including Watsu therapy, and three concept restaurants

will serve international and traditional, local cuisine.


www.stkitts.park.hyatt.com


KYOTO, JAPAN

HOSHINOYA

Customary Japanese houses that cling to the banks above the Hozugawa River, in the wonderful temple-rich Arashiyama

district in Western Kyoto, are inspiration for the series of traditionally styled low-rise buildings that make up Hoshinoya. This

luxurious, hybrid ryokan-hotel, set in a tranquil wooded area of stunning natural beauty, is only accessible via a 15-minute

boat ride along the Ōi River, in a Japanese cedar wood hinoki. Hoshinoya is situated in Ogurayama, an intensely scenic area

that once inspired poets, and was favoured by the noble classes 1,200 years ago. Today deer still wander around, and in the

autumn maple trees colour the landscape bright red, adding to the romantic appeal of this rather special spot.

Iron lanterns light bamboo-fenced mossy stone walkways, leading to Hoshinoya's 25 elegant and serene guest rooms,

which are punctuated with hand-blocked wallpaper, heated wooden floors, shoji-inspired sliding glass doors and picture

windows, deep soaking tubs and an abundance of cedar. Windows look onto the river below, or out into the trees where foxes

roam and the occasional monkey swings through the forest. Larger rooms have bigger views and sofas. Suites have formal

tatami lounges and traditional Japanese matting.

Hoshinoya is essentially a contemplative place, and a veritable retreat, not only from Kyoto but also modern-day life. You

won't see a television anywhere at Hoshinoya (in-room entertainment consists of a sound system and calligraphy set), and the

boat link to civilisation only runs for 13 hours each day. But after you’ve feasted on an exceptional nine-course dinner of

delectable Japanese cuisine, and changed into the raw-silk robes provided, you can recline in the library (refreshed throughout

the day with complimentary snacks), or sit in the Zen rock garden and gaze up, lose yourself in the star-filled skies and relish

your momentary escape.


www.hoshinoresorts.com


MAHESHWAR, INDIA

THE HOUSE HOTEL

Turkey's land of fairy chimneys, as Cappadocia is often called, is a dreamy slice of the only Eastern European nation

that straddles western Asia. Set on a high, dry plateau in the middle of Turkey, Cappadocia is a region of hot

summers and cold, occasionally snowy, winters. Once upon a time, ancient volcanic eruptions blanketed this

region with thick ash, which solidified into a soft rock tens of metres thick. After wind, water, erosion and time

worked their magic, only its harder features remained, forming a whimsical landscape of cones, pillars, pinnacles

and chimneys, some of which, particularly in the Göreme valley, stretch up to 40 metres into the sky. Centuries later

yet still more than a thousand years ago, humans took a cue from Mother Nature and began carving an incredible

cave and tunnel complex into the soft rock. Beginning in the 4 th century AD, an urbanized, underground land was

created by the hands of men - including living quarters, places of worship, stables and storehouses - alongside the

naturally occurring visual wonderland. Located near Göreme and Ürgüp, the town of Ortahisar is relatively

untouched by tourism, and it is here - a little off the beaten track yet close to the must-see sights - that The House

Hotel is located. Set just off the town’s main square, overlooking the ‘hisar’ and neighbouring fairy chimneys, The

House offers a convenient base from which to explore the astonishing region's fascinating past and present.

Staying at The House is to be immersed in a world of carved stonework, that not only sheds light on how folks

lived long ago, but that also makes for inimitable design detailing. The hotel’s 45 guest rooms have been

fashioned from a complex of ancient connected caves and traditional homes, including several buildings built in

the 5 th century, as well as some from the 1800s and late 1900s. Each room has been styled in a freshly

understated way for the region, and features frescoes, crown moldings and other authentic décor elements that

accentuate Cappadocia’s rich heritage. The hotel’s locally inspired restaurant and 350m 2 spa with traditional

Hamam, sauna and steam, help to further provide guests with a truly authentic Turkish experience.


www.thehousehotel.com


AHILYA FORT

What sets the discerning traveller apart is a gravitational pull towards authenticity; of slipping into their

surroundings like a well-worn robe; a seeking out of singularity outside the boundaries of the mold. India

breaks that mold. Its tapestry of religions, dialects, cuisines and cultures makes it one of the world’s most

diverse destinations, where its indelible beauty often exists outside our comfort zone.

Those seeking an Indian experience unlike any other can find it in the central state of Madhya Pradesh, where

Ahilya Fort overlooks the sacred Narmada river in Maheshwar. Here culture, hospitality and authenticity come

together in complete harmony. Well before its conversion in 2000 into a 13-room heritage hotel, this 18 th century

fortress was originally built for Maharani Ahilya Bai Holkar, Queen of the Maratha-ruled Malwa kingdom.

Spilling outward from the base of the 250-year-old fortress are the Ahilya ghats, or ‘river steps’, where all life,

commerce and communion takes place. Take your breakfast of fresh delicacies straight from the hotel’s

vegetable garden as you watch the local women bring their washing to the river. Maheshwar is considered the

home of Lord Shiva, and there are a multitude of temples in his name to visit throughout the area; while other

cultural wanderings might bring you to the Rajgadi royal throne of Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar, the archeological

museum, or the Sahastradhara waterfall.

Each of the hotel’s rooms, tents and suites are spread out across all six buildings of the fortress, their

sumptuous décor reminiscent of the quarters of Indian royalty, abounding with ornate fabrics and period

furniture. Guests staying in the Royal Tent also have a private garden area and plunge pool.

With a cuisine as varied and vibrant as its people, no stay at Ahilya Fort is complete without a taste of its local,

lush ingredients and spices – or a fresh chapati straight from the hotel’s on-site bakery. Lunch can be savoured

at the fortress’ leafy Badam courtyard or, for the more adventurous, take your dinner on an island in the middle

of the Narmada River.

ASHLEE STARRATT

www.ahilyafort.com

CAPPADOCIA, TURKEY


SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO, MEXICO

MAR ADENTRO

Where the Mexican desert meets its ocean lifeblood sits Baja California Sur. The lower-most extremity of the world’s second

longest peninsula, its landmass juts like a finger, striking an untamed balance between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of

Cortés. The rugged mysticism of its landscape is juxtaposed against the bronzed, champagne glitz of its Hollywood resort

playgrounds of Cabo san Lucas and San José del Cabo. Sun-chasers seeking a reprieve from the madding crowds will find

welcome respite at Mar Adentro. Hugging the coastline, this eight-acre resort feels like it’s been carved from the living rock,

and is a dream of a retreat whose architecture blends organically with the exquisite beauty of its natural surroundings.

The vision of Mexican architect Miguel Ángel Aragonés, the 205-room property is a white-washed haven where simplicity in

design allows the landscape to be the focal point, with unbroken, linear sightlines towards the cerulean sea. Guests can select

from well-appointed ocean-view rooms, suites or two stand-alone luxury villas, each complete with a private roof terrace,

shaded kitchen and bar, outdoor lounge and dining areas and private 205ft 2 pool.

A water-sustainable resort, Mar Adentro prides itself on offering 100% potable drinking water, sourced and purified from the

sea. A wraparound watercourse leads from the sea directly into the heart of the resort where it’s treated with desalination,

activated carbon and UV-ray cleansing processes.

Wander around Mar Adentro’s airy canals and saltwater pools, immersing yourself in the natural light throughout its

expansive facilities, and you’ll notice that wellness is at the very root of its ideology. Soak up a water-pressure massage or

indulge in a clinical aromatherapy session against a musical backdrop of Vivaldi at the resort’s holistic spa, or re-center

yourself in one of Mar Adentro’s private yoga and Pilates studios.

If Zen on a plate is more your speed, you need look no farther than the resort’s four sumptuous fine-dining options: Origen

serving up revitalized modern Mexican; Nido offering the freshest catch from the Sea of Cortés; Roca – the chicest of pool-side

speakeasies; or Nube, a sundowners’ domain, where the strength of the cocktails are as breathtaking as the terrace views.

ASHLEE STARRATT

www.maradentrocabos.com


SAVOR EXQUISITE

MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE

Bask in the uninterrupted views of the Acropolis and the city of Athens,

while enjoying an inspired selection of Mediterranean flavors,

especially created by the Chef de cuisine, Asterios Koustoudis,

at the GB Roof Garden Restaurant.

operating hours: Lunch 13:00 - 18:00 | Dinner 18:00 - 01:15 (last order)

For reservations, please call 210 3330 766

or visit: gbROOFGARDEN.gr

ΜΗ.Τ.Ε.: 0206K015A0021500

hotel grande bretagne

a luxury collection hotel, athens

Syntagma Square

105 64 Athens, Greece

SEGERA RETREAT

Jochen Zeitz is a successful businessman, ecological visionary, committed philanthropist and dedicated advocate of

sustainability. He was the youngest CEO to head a German PLC (Puma, no less), now chairs the sustainability committees for

Kering, Harley-Davidson and Wilderness, and co-founded The B Team with Richard Branson - a global nonprofit initiative that

brought together a collection of global leaders, in an attempt to define an agenda to make businesses more sustainable. Zeitz

is also creator of the nonprofit Zeitz Foundation, of which Segera Retreat is a core project, situated between Mount Kenya to

the east and the Great Rift Valley to the west, at the very center of the Laikipia Plateau.

Common or garden tourists generally visit Africa to tick off their bucket list that they've seen the Big Five. But at Segera, Zeitz has

created something that offers infinitely more than wildlife spotting. For starters, at 50,000 acres, Segera is more than three times the

size of Manhattan. When he bought the old cattle farm in 2005, Zeitz set out to replenish a landscape that had been overgrazed and

over-hunted. He designed his own sustainability framework and set about restoring beauty to the land and preserving the cultural

legacy of its indigenous peoples. He also ripped out many of the fences to liberate the animals. A decade later, the Laikipia Plateau

supports the second highest density of wildlife in Kenya, and is the only region in the country where species’ population numbers are

increasing. Today, Segera houses three endangered species, honey production and part of Zeitz's extensive art collection.


LAIKIPIA PLATEAU, KENYA

The Segera lifestyle - focused around conservation, community, culture and commerce - Zeitz's “4Cs” - is carefully

designed to inspire visitors' souls as much as their senses. At Segera, it is not uncommon to see elephants, buffalo, lions,

leopards, monkeys, cheetah, giraffes, more than 200 native bird species, and most of the East African plains’ game animals.

Endangered species, such as the Grevy's zebra and the rare African Wild Dog (whose population is now growing in remarkable

numbers throughout all of Laikipia), also roam Segera's lands. Add to this incredible natural landscape the genuine feeling of

being a guest at Zeitz's home, and it's unsurprising that visitors to date have included fashion queen Vivienne Westwood,

actress-turned-activist Darryl Hannah, and sustainability consultant Leo Johnson, brother of former London Mayor, Boris.

Visiting Segera is to experience utter luxury amidst spectacular natural beauty and enjoy personal enrichment from

conscientious, sustainable vacationing. If you’re very lucky you might even get a ride in the same 1929 mustard-coloured

Gypsy Moth biplane, that was used in the filming of Sydney Pollack’s romantic tour de force, Out of Africa, which Zeitz can

often been seen flying over Segera's vast, open plains.


www.segera.com


LE VENDÔME BEIRUT

Cedars, sea and sky are Lebanon’s calling card. City by the sea and

still very much the Paris of the Middle East, Beirut beckons the

ultimate cultured traveller with all five of her alluring senses. Art,

music, history, nightlife and cuisine – Lebanese hospitality is second

to none. Always fiercely proud of its heritage, Beirut continues to carry

a torch for its golden era – those decades from the late 1950s to the

early 1970s when the city was an awakened hub for artists, screen

stars, forward thinkers of literature, education, politics and all manner

of intelligentsia in between.

If there’s one hospitality address in Beirut that’s remained true to

this most illustrious epoch, it’s Le Vendôme. With 73 rooms, its size

and intimacy make it one of the city’s most charming yet lavish

boutique hotels, with a history deeply rooted in those formative years

of Lebanon’s cultural crusade. Founded in 1964 by La Societe

Hoteliere Fakhoury, the hotel came under the management of

InterContinental in 1996, and underwent an extensive, multi

million-dollar restoration, creating a deluxe property to welcome

today’s discerning visitors exploring the Lebanese capital.

In a prime location overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, and just

minutes from the city centre on the edge of the upscale downtown

area, Le Vendôme has hosted its share of celebrities, royalty and

foreign dignitaries over the last few years. With a décor galvanized by

l'elegance française, each of the hotel’s Deluxe, Premium and

Executive rooms boast lush amenities, luxe bathrooms, classic

furnishings and colour palettes that evoke the splendour of 18 th

century living. Try to snag a sea-view room for a brilliant breakfast

with the ultimate balcony panorama.

With expansive living and dining areas, kitchenette, two master

bathrooms and private butler service, Le Vendôme’s 220m 2

Presidential Suite affords esteemed guests the ability to spread out

and luxuriate, with premium add-ons including complimentary

in-room neck and shoulder massages and executive airport transfers.

Just a few minutes walk away, committed sun-worshippers can

top up their tans at Saint-Georges Yacht Club & Marina, while the

markets, souks, restaurants and Hamra’s buzzing nightlife are all just

a short stroll from the hotel. The expansive Phoenicia Spa, in Le

Vendôme’s big sister hotel nearby, offers personal trainers, a 24-hour

fitness centre and a roster of relaxation treatments to take care of

guests’ bodies, minds and souls.

For ‘scene’-sters and culinary connoisseurs, a visit to Sydney’s

rooftop restaurant is a must – as there’s really no better vantage point

from which to drink in the city, with all the shining lights of Beirut

sparkling incandescent below. Under the helm of the acclaimed chef,

Rabih Fouany, Le Vendôme Beirut’s 24-hour dining experience offers

a curated selection of international delicacies, against a backdrop of

rare cognacs, whiskies and fine cigars.

If Lebanon remains the heart of the Levant, then Beirut is still its

pulse, whose rhythm positively ebbs and flows at Le Vendôme.

ASHLEE STARRATT

www.levendomebeirut.com


BEIRUT, LEBANON


GSTAAD, SWITZERLAND


THE ALPINA GSTAAD

Amid the regal grandeur of the Swiss Alps, as snow

gathers on the needles of pines and larches, the

hamlets of its many mountain valleys beckon with their

twinkling chalet lights and curls of smoke. Nestled

among the peaks of the Bernese Oberland region is

Gstaad, that most quixotic of alpine enclaves, whose

soaring mountains and prestigious international

boarding schools have long made it a vacation

destination for the royal elite.

Cultured travellers seeking a super-sophisticated

Alpine experience need look no farther than The Alpina

Gstaad, where nature and luxury blend seamlessly.

Having opened it doors just four years ago in December

2012, this bespoke deluxe resort continues to set the

pace in its climb to the top, having earned the 2016 Best

Resort in Switzerland award from Travel & Leisure, and

the 2016 Traveller’s Choice Award from TripAdvisor. With

a Six Senses Spa and two Michelin-starred restaurants,

the litany of accolades The Alpina Gstaad has already

accrued are impressive to say the least. Featuring 56

rooms and suites, each has been designed under the

expert eye of Swiss artisans, utilizing locally sourced

natural and contemporary materials to offset the rustic

wood elements of each space.

Guests who opt for a Grand Luxe, Chalet or

Panorama suite can upgrade their experience with

bespoke in-room shopping. Organized by the hotel’s

concierge, discerning clientele can peruse the best

luxury retail items from Gstaad’s high street, directly

from the comfort of their lodgings, without even having

to set foot outside – the perfect antidote to skier’s

fatigue after a long day on the slopes.

Equal parts resort and art gallery, The Alpina Gstaad’s

extensive private art collection features works from 33

internationally-renowned contemporary artists, with

paintings, seasonal installations and thought-provoking

mixed-media on display within the hotel and around its

grounds.

Of its six, unique gastronomic offerings, both

Restaurant Sommet and Megu have earned their

inaugural Michelin stars, along with 18 and 16 Gault

Millau points respectively. At the former, indulge in

some of the best steaks in Switzerland, or a unique

chef’s tasting menu that’s a veritable homage to the

region’s outstanding fresh produce. Meanwhile at the

latter, gourmands can sup from Megu’s extensive cellar

of sake while sampling some of the town’s finest

sashimi.

ASHLEE STARRATT

www.thealpinagstaad.ch


LONDON, UK

BATTY LANGLEY'S

The English are known throughout the world for their eccentricity, non-conformist style and sometimes rather unusual

behaviour, which often leaves many overseas visitors scratching their heads. National treasures include the likes of fashion

icon Vivienne Westwood, cross-dressing ceramicist and Turner Prize winner Grayson Perry, and Zandra Rhodes, the

pink-haired septuagenarian fashion designer. Aside from Brighton (an hour outside of the capital, on the south coast),

nowhere is Great Britain's irreverent eclecticism more alive and kicking than London, the nation's energetic heart – brimming

with eccentrics, brash with colour and alive with humour. And within the M25, hip east London is the place most heaving with

slightly different and overtly more outgoing types. It's little surprise then, that Douglas Blain and Peter McKay's third London

hotel, a delightfully unconventional five-storey property in the heart of charismatic Spitalfields, bears such an odd title, named

after Bartholomew “Batty” Langley, an 18 th century British architect, landscape gardener and author.

Situated on narrow cobbled Folgate Street, slap bang in the middle of the East End’s most funky neighbourhood, the front

door to Batty Langley's is permanently locked to all except residents, making the place feel like a cross between someone’s

house and a private members club. Once inside, 29 rooms and suites have been individually styled, dotted with period

antiques and original artwork, and injected with a sense of fun. You can tell that the hotel's owners don't really like being told

what to do, and Batty Langley's is all the better for it, a fantastic concoction of glorious Georgian architecture, tasteful wooden

furnishings, four-poster beds and sumptuous interiors of warm colours and wood paneling. The entire property is bedecked

with heavy silk drapes. Many of the hotel's authentic Georgian bathrooms feature deep, freestanding tubs. All have thick

mahogany loo seats, a little brass handle to flush and swan head bath taps. The abundance of such charming detailing – all

without exception executed to perfection – is the key to Batty Langley's unique and unrivalled individualism. The hotel’s

premiere GBP 1,200/night Earl of Bolingbroke Suite, boasts four rooms on two levels, complete with a private roof terrace

offering sweeping vistas towards the Olympic Park.

Downstairs, open fires, pure wool carpets and a choice of cozy yet glamorous sitting rooms complete the feeling of staying

in the grand, lovingly maintained home of your aunty who might be just a tiny little bit bonkers.


www.battylangleys.com


Terms & conditions apply. Hyatt and Grand Hyatt names, designs and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2016 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

GOOD TAKES A VACATION.

GRAND TAKES A STAYCATION.

Book the ultimate getaway this season with our special offer starting at

QAR 1686 per night in our luxurious villas. Indulge in a world of fine dining, 400 m

of private beach, outdoor and indoor swimming pools, and tranquil gardens.

*Villas vary between two, three, and four bedrooms.

*The offer is valid for a minimum stay of two nights.

*This experience is available until 17 March 2017.

*Bookings are subject to the availability of the villas.

FOR RESERVATIONS AND MORE INFORMATION, CALL +974 4448 1234. HYATT. YOU’RE MORE THAN WELCOME.

doha.grand.hyatt.com Facebook/GrandHyattDoha doha.grand@hyatt.com

ROME, ITALY


HOTEL EDEN

A city steeped in history, Rome stills carries the echoes

of its great civilization, as the ancient and the modern

hold hands in eternal dance. The past is never far from

any corner of this Italian metropolis. The beauty of

Rome’s architecture and enlightenment, and the

stories of its ancient bloodshed, draw millions of

tourists a year after year to its spectacular monuments.

Central to the action and cacophony that is Rome,

is Hotel Eden. Located between Via Veneto and the

Spanish Steps, its 125-year-old structure is currently

undergoing extensive restoration, under the

stewardship of the Dorchester Collection, and is

slated to re-open in April 2017 with 98 refreshed

guestrooms and suites.

Loyal frequenters of the hotel can expect to see

inspired upgrades that remain true to the ethos of the

property’s exuberant heritage. With elegant,

Roman-inspired suite interiors, a new all-day

brasserie on the building’s top level, and a hidden

library bar, the hotel’s magic lies in the details of its

refurbishment.

With its name suggesting the great utopia, Hotel

Eden earns its moniker from its lush surroundings,

with the verdant gardens of Ludovisi, Borghese and

Malta villas all practically on its doorstep. The hotel’s

Aurora Terrace suite boasts an outdoor lounge and

private fountain, an al fresco dining area that can seat

10 and a Romanesque marble bath. Meanwhile

guests of the Penthouse Suite are whisked to their

luxe abode via a private elevator.

Upon completion of the renovations, visitors to

Hotel Eden also have the opening of the property’s

new flagship spa to look forward to. Promising to be a

deluxe urban sanctuary, dedicated to relaxation and

renewal, the facility will offer four private spa suites

plus an upscale blow-dry bar. If pampering wets your

appetite, satiate your palate at La Terrazza, the hotel’s

spacious new rooftop dining experience, where the

cuisine of classical Italy comes home to roost under

the careful eye of Chef Fabio Ciervo. Book the

intimate chef’s table for private functions of up to

eight guests, imbibe in a limoncello on the secret

garden terrace of Il Giardino Ristorante, or indulge in

the warmth of a cigar and brandy in the tranquil

sophistication of the new Libreria Lounge.

If Italy is meant to be experienced with all five of

the senses, Rome’s new Hotel Eden will almost

certainly provide for them all.

ASHLEE STARRATT

www.dorchestercollection.com


”One of the 10 best hotels of 2014”

VOGUE FRANCE

”One of Europe’s best new boutique hotels”

CNN

”One of the best business hotels in

the world selected by luxury executives”

FORBES

Sveavägen 48, Stockholm · www.missclarahotel.com

STOCKHOLM

ALEX BENASULI IS ENTHRALLED BY THE SWEDISH CAPITAL, WHERE MODERNITY

MEETS TRANQUILITY, AND FASHIONABLE RESTAURANTS AND VIBRANT

NIGHTCLUBS SIT NATURALLY IN AN IDYLLIC SCANDINAVIAN ARCHIPELAGO

Capital of Sweden, largest city in the Nordic region,

and one of the fastest growing commercial hubs in

Europe, Stockholm oozes down-to-earth confidence

and dynamism. Nestled between Lake Mälaren and the Baltic

Sea, spread across fourteen islands connected by bridges and

canals, and surrounded by forests and abundant countryside,

few cities on the planet can match Stockholm’s stunning

natural setting.

Stockholm has a long and proud history. Gamla Stan – the

old city dating back to the 13 th century – is one of the

best-preserved medieval districts in Europe. Elsewhere,

buildings and boulevards from the late 19 th and early 20 th

centuries abound, giving the city elegance in spades. The

combination of architectural marvels set in such a natural

environment makes Stockholm a visually unique metropolis

and a complete delight to explore. Though the visual


experience alone should be enough to position the Swedish

capital at the top of everyone’s city break list, it is its

contemporary design and fashion industries, as well as

cosmopolitan café and restaurant culture, that allows

Stockholm to stand globally alongside much larger

international peers.

During the summer months, Stockholm literally shines.

Though not quite the land of the midnight sun (you would

have to go further north for that), in the weeks leading up to

and after the June summer solstice, daylight continues for

what seems like forever. From late spring through autumn,

Stockholm is an al fresco urban paradise. Locals spend as

much time as possible cycling, boating, walking-around and

frequenting the scores of outdoor cafés and eateries, before

dropping temperatures drive the action indoors. The

waterfront between Kungliga Operan (the Royal Opera

House), Kungsträdgården (Swedish for "King's Garden") and

the Grand Hôtel – facing Parliament House and the Royal

Palace – is an ideal place to begin one’s appreciation of the

city. The many bridges and boardwalks that connect the

mainland to Gamla Stan and adjacent Skeppsholmen Island,

offer some picture postcard-perfect vantage points from

which to absorb this beautiful city. Stockholm’s skyline is

handsome, grand and unique, dominated by amber, rust and

gold-coloured stone buildings, erected in centuries past when

the city was the epicenter of a Scandinavian and Baltic

empire. The low-rise architecture and gently hilly topography,


Stockholm’s skyline is handsome,

grand and unique, dominated by

amber, rust and gold-coloured stone

buildings, erected in centuries past

when the city was the epicenter of a

Scandinavian and Baltic empire

combine to create a visually pleasing rhythm of church spires

and notable buildings, that go on as far the eye can see.

Water is everywhere and supplies a constant exercise in

motion, with floating traffic consisting of everything from

rowing boats to sailing yachts and commercial vessels adding

to the ever changing tableaux. Light reflecting off the water,

in a multitude of seasonal daytime variations, provides visitors

with a splendid scene of changing vistas. During the summer

months, the terrace of the Grand Hôtel offers the perfect

outdoor setting to soak up some sun and to watch the

waterborne world go by (www.grandhotel.se/en). For a

slightly younger and groovier vibe, the patio at the front of

Lydmar Hotel next door, offers the same sweeping views but

in a more relaxed ambience. It is where many professional yet

hip city folk let their hair down after work on summer nights,

to a soundtrack of live music or DJs at the weekends

(www.lydmar.com).

After a couple of hours of taking it all in, a change of venue

will probably be in order. Gamla Stan, the old town, is but a

stone’s throw away, just across the water. Rumour has it that

in 1252, when looking for a new capital, the Swedes hollowed

out a log, filled it with gold, and let it float away. It travelled as

far as the island on which Gamla Stan is situated, and

Stockholm (“log island” in Swedish), was born. Stortorget,

the city’s historical ginger bread house-perfect main square,

is a truly splendid example of Northern European medieval

architecture. Whilst impressive all year round, the area is even


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more magical during the winter

months, particularly in the snow, and

during the weeks leading up to

Christmas, Stortorget hosts one of

Stockholm’s most picturesque

Christmas markets. Though the main

thoroughfares of Gamla Stan are often

teeming with tourists, its charming

tangle of narrow, winding and mostly

pedestrianised cobbled streets, are

filled with cafés, bars, restaurants and

galleries that appeal both to visitors and

locals alike. History buffs will of course

immerse themselves with tours of the

Royal Palace (one of Europe’s largest),

the 13 th century Storkyrkan Cathedral

and Parliament House. Here you will

also find the Nobel Museum, which

chronicles the life of one of Sweden’s

most famous subjects, Alfred Nobel

(1833–1896), and his legacy, the Nobel

Prize (www.nobelmuseum.se). When

fortification is needed head to Gaston, a

chic and popular modern Scandinavian

wine bar, which stocks over 400 wines

by small producers in France, Germany,

Austria, Italy and California

(www.gastonvin.se). In the same area,

Under Kastanjen is a traditional bistro

with a bakery, open from breakfast and

throughout the day

(www.underkastanjen.se).

GAMLA STAN AT CHRISTMAS

ROSENDALS TRÄDGÅRD

For a funky afternoon rounded off with

memorable sundowners, make your

way to Södermalm, an island in the

south central part of Stockholm,

named in 2014 as the coolest

neighbourhood in Europe by Vogue

magazine. Once a working-class

community and brimming with scores

of attractive buildings and pretty, small

squares, the bohemian and creative

Södermalm of today is gentrifying

rapidly, and is now filled with vintage

boutiques, design shops, independent

cafés and bars. For the best of them

get off the T-bana at

Medborgarplatsen and head to the

area known as SoFo, which refers to

the cluster of streets south of


FOTOGRAFISKA

Folkungagtan. Like any eclectic and up-and-coming

neigbourhood, half the fun is wandering around and

discovering it for yourself. SoFo is very much the capital of

hipster Stockholm. Within walking distance of SoFo, on the

north eastern bank of Södermalm, is Fotografiska,

Stockholm’s world class museum of photography, housed in

a warehouse-like space with a chic, industrial-esque café,

restaurant and lounge on its top floor that commands some

of the best views in town (www.fotografiska.eu). Papercut is

the city’s top destination for magazine lovers

(www.papercutshop.se), and spectacular city vistas can be

enjoyed from Monteliusvägen, a quarter mile pedestrian

walkway laden with benches, lined on one side with

charming houses and on the other with magnificent views of

Gamla Stan, Riddarholmen, City Hall, and most of historic

central Stockholm, especially at sunset.

In Stockholm, visitors are spoiled for choice with countless

views of historic buildings surrounded by water, yet each one

has it own unique vantage point. A few streets behind the

Grand Hôtel, the public space between the districts of

Norrmalm and Östermalm, Nybroplan, at the foot of

Nybroviken bay, gives way to Strandvägen, Sweden’s most

prestigious address. Here, the palatial quayside mansions

lining the boulevard date back to the late 19 th century, and

represent a statement of confidence and wealth from the

trading empire that Sweden and its capital became. Seen

from across the water, through the tall masts of retired sailing


Smart and wealthy Östermalm district is situated in

the centre/eastern part of Stockholm, and has some of

the highest housing prices in the country, and is where

the well heeled and well dressed live, work and play

ships, the prominent buildings of Strandvägen cast an

impressive silhouette. Take the tram from Nybroplan or walk

the length of Strandvägen’s esplanade to reach Djurgården

island, Stockholm’s equivalent to New York’s Central Park,

Berlin’s Museum Island and Copenhagen’s Tivoli Garden.

Djurgården is a nature and culture lover’s paradise, mostly

made up of walking and bike paths crisscrossing beautifully

maintained gardens, lawns and forested areas. This being

Stockholm, of course there are wonderful water views at

almost every turn. Over the centuries, many aristocratic and

prominent families built beautiful summer homes and

gardens on Djurgården, some of which are now open to the

public. Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde, the former home of its

namesake, was completed in 1905 and is now one of

Sweden’s most popular art museums

(www.waldemarsudde.se). The adjacent park and gardens

are nothing short of bucolic splendour. The literal and physical

heart of Djurgården is Rosendals Trädgård, an idyllic collection

of vegetable fields, green houses, a rose garden, orchard and

vineyard, and at it’s center a very good organic café.

Rosendals is a place to feel the abundance of horticulture and

to watch healthy and happy locals enjoy their picnics

(www.rosendalstradgard.se). Djurgården is also home to

many of Stockholm’s most important museums. Vasa

Museum is Scandinavia’s most visited attraction. It houses

the only intact 17 th century ship in the world, which sank in

the waters outside Stockholm within minutes of its 1628

maiden voyage, and was painstakingly raised from the sea


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bed and restored in the second half of

the 20 th century. A visit to Vasa is not to

be missed (www.vasamuseet.se/en).

Another of Djurgården’s famous

attractions draws upon a very different

kind of tradition. ABBA: The Museum is

a fun, light hearted and interactive

tribute to one of Sweden’s biggest and

certainly most loved musical exports,

and a zany way to spend a few hours

(www.abbathemuseum.com). Children

will enjoy the water front amusement

park and fun fair next door.

Stockholm is of course much more than

a collection of impressive buildings,

parks and museums. It’s a city of

vibrant and diverse neighbourhoods,

compact enough to tackle on foot, and

at most, a few Tunnelbana (T-bana)

metro or tram stops away from each

other. Smart and wealthy Östermalm

district is situated in the centre/eastern

part of Stockholm, and has some of the

highest housing prices in the country,

and is where the well heeled and well

dressed live, work and play. Here you’ll

find the city’s most fancy boutiques,

smartest restaurants and upscale,

turn-of-last-century apartment blocks

and embassies. The area around

Stureplan square, off Birger Jarlsgatan

(Östermalm’s main drag), is a nightlife

hub with offerings that range from

elegant and refined to downright

boisterous. Sturehof, an Östermalm

institution since 1897, is home to a

popular bar, café and seafood

restaurant which is usually wildly busy

and atmospheric indoors and out

(www.sturehof.com). Taverna Brillo is a

tribute to all things Italian, made up of a

large dining room surrounded by a

market place which includes a florist,

bakery, pizzeria, gelateria and several

bars (www.tavernabrillo.se).

Meanwhile its culinary cousin, Riche, is

aimed at Stockholm’s more

sophisticated set (www.riche.se). All

are excellent places to dine, drink and

people watch. Design stores are

ABBA: THE MUSEUM

LISA ELMQVIST AT ÖSTERMALMS SALUHALL

OPERABAREN


BIBLIOTEKSGATAN

STADSHUSET

concentrated on quieter Sibyllegatan and Nybrogatan, whilst

the streets around Biblioteksgatan and Normalmstorg are the

go to places for high-end fashion. For lunch or coffee in

between shopping, head to Östermalms Saluhall, Stockholm’s

top-of-the-line, spacious yet intimate food hall, dating back

to the late 1800s (www.ostermalmshallen.se). Inside the

Saluhall, traditional Swedish delicacies like dill-cured salmon,

pickled herring, pan fried perch and, of course, meatballs with

lingonberries, can all be found at Lisa Elmqvist, a longtime

favourite amongst locals, since it was founded in the early

1920s by a fisherman’s daughter, who began her career as a

waterfront street market fishmonger. (www.lisaelmqvist.se)

Until the summer of 2018, the Saluhall is in temporary digs,

across the street from the original one while it undergoes

renovations. Do not let this put you off going. The temporary

space is gorgeous simplicity and it’s hard to imagine that it

will be torn down one day.

At some point during your visit to Stockholm, the call of the

water might become so great that a maritime adventure might

be needed. Although there are many options to explore the inner

canals, islands and bridges that adorn the city, a half-day tour to

Stockholm’s famed archipelago is highly recommended.

Cruising out past the city’s familiar landmarks, the landscape

gives way to literally thousands and thousands of forested

islands, some large enough to accommodate small towns and

connected to the mainland and each other with bridges and

causeways. Others are so small that they contain a single

42 46 The Cultured Traveller Dec-Jan 2016-17

Cruising out past the city’s familiar landmarks, the

landscape gives way to literally thousands and

thousands of forested islands, some large enough to

accommodate small towns and connected to the

mainland and each other with bridges and causeways

traditional wooden house with ornate shutters and a gabled

roof. One in six Stockholmers own a boat and it’s easy to

understand why. Arriving back to the city after some hours

exploring the archipelago, Stockholm all of a sudden makes

more sense – a settlement founded on trade and its naval

capability, that grew into the country’s capital and Scandinavia’s

main metropolis with the integration of nature and water as

fundamental elements of the city’s psyche. Back on land,

Stockholm’s tapestry of interconnected islands, waterfront

avenues and stately buildings beckon once more, and there is

no better place to celebrate an enhanced appreciation for the

city, than to visit Stadhuset, Stockholm’s iconic city hall and

one of Sweden's most famous buildings, which can only be

viewed inside via a guided tour. The immense waterfront

42

piazza to the rear provides yet another perfect viewpoint from

which to gaze in awe at this mesmerizing city.

Spending time in Stockholm is a real treat. Nature lovers will

love the parks, the waterfront promenades and the

archipelago. Culture fans will be drawn to the museums and

the city’s numerous historical sites. Design buffs will be in

heaven, immersing in Scandinavia’s signature minimalist and

practical yet warm style. Foodies will relish in mixing up

Swedish culinary classics with Nordic farm-to-table

experimental offerings as well as more exotic fare. Chic yet

humble, elegant yet down to earth, reserved yet welcoming,

traditional yet forward-thinking, I have a new love, and her

name is Stockholm.


STAY

GRAND HÔTEL

The hotel of choice for international dignitaries and discerning tourists, Grand Hôtel has been

Stockholm’s premier luxury lodgings since 1874. Built for the purpose of delivering to Stockholm a

hotel property worthy of being known as the best on the continent, the first Nobel prize banquet

was held at the Grand in 1901, and tradition dictates that all award winners and their families stay

there to this day. The hotel’s location alone warrants its place as Stockholm’s finest hospitality

address. Occupying a stately waterfront period building with unobstructed views of the Royal

Palace, Parliament House, Gamla Stan and Skeppsholmen Island, Grand Hôtel is a Stockholm

landmark in its own right.

The lobby area is an elegant, classic modern symphony of marble, off whites and grey, accented

with hints of lavender and silver. The recently renovated rooms are decorated without fault. High

ceilings, period finishes, parquet wood floors and oversized windows set the stage.

Botanical-inspired wall coverings, luxurious furnishings and Scandinavian design sensibilities,

combine to create a classic experience that is also warm and comfortable. The hotel’s front facing

rooms boast the best views in all of Stockholm. From standard room to multiple suite offerings,

guests are spoiled for choice when selecting their room options.

Service at Grand Hôtel is impeccable. Every employee, from the doormen to the front desk staff,

and maître d’s and servers is a true professional. The concierge team is particularly impressive,

extremely knowledgeable, brimming with precise recommendations, professional and discreet.

As well as acting as a social hub for global business and leisure travellers, Grand Hôtel is the

place for many locals whose families have celebrated special occasions at the property for

generations. Conservatory-style glass enclosed Veranda restaurant – the hotel’s waterfront-facing

outlet, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner – is particularly famous for its typically Swedish

smorgasbord buffet, including all sorts of pickled herrings, gravlax, meatballs, veal cutlets and all

the trimmings. The views towards the water, particularly at sunset, are quite spectacular.

For a more intense culinary experience, Mathias Dahlgren offers exclusive simplicity in a cozy

and friendly atmosphere, with two different dining areas to chose from – a modern gastronomic

restaurant and a contemporary bistro. Whilst the cuisine throughout is globally-inspired, dishes

served pay homage to the restaurant’s Swedish roots (www.mdghs.se).

Named after Régis Cadier, French chef and the founder of the Grand, the hotel’s cavernous

wood-paneled Cadier Bar has a luxurious old-world feel brought into the 21 st century with lighter

soft furnishings. Here, the local elite mixes with guests for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea,

pre-dinner cocktails and late night digestifs.

In front of the hotel, outside the building and facing the water, is The Terrace, open during the

summer months only. This is the perfect place to put stop during a busy to break for a coffee and

some Mediterranean-inspired light bites overlooking Norrström Canal and Gamla Stan.

The hotel’s Day Spa is a sumptuous homage to the Swedish bathing ritual, with separate men’s

and women’s sauna, steam, shower and pool areas. In addition there is large, fully-equipped gym

and a swimming pool. Treatments run the gamut from highly specialised traditional Chinese

medicine, to chiropractic and, of course, Swedish massage. The spa draws its inspiration from the

wholesome natural elements (namely the water, lakes and forests) that make up Stockholm’s

archipelago region. The sauna and steam areas feature absolutely stunning walls of mosaic-tiled

murals depicting waterfront forests and bathers. They alone are reason enough to visit the Grand

Hôtel’s deluxe spa.

Grand Hôtel is arguably Stockholm’s most elegant and historic hospitality address, yet skillfully

manages not to feel stiff or uptight. Here at 8 Södra Blasieholmshamnen, tradition and modern day

touches unite to deliver a very special five-star hotel experience, befitting Sweden’s captivating

capital city. www.grandhotel.se



STAY

MISS CLARA BY NOBIS

An urban boutique hotel that combines a Scandinavian design

aesthetic with the top continental hospitality standards, Miss

Clara is located in the central and bustling Norrmalm district, with

easy access to the Östermalm’s shopping and Vasastaden’s art

galleries as well as the traditional historical sites. To stay at Miss

Clara is to experience the dynamic and cosmopolitan Stockholm

of today.

Housed in a meticulously restored Art Nouveau schoolhouse

built in 1910, Miss Clara delivers a premium hospitality experience

integrating architecture and design. The hotel entrance, right off

of bustling Sveavägen street, gives way to an intimate yet open

and welcoming reception area. Period details are combined with a

chic industrial vibe that deftly creates an urban yet warm

sensibility. The 92 rooms sport high ceilings, oversized windows

and parquet floors, together with marble and glass-enclosed

bathrooms adding an airy feel to guest accommodations. Natural

materials including oak and limestone, as well as a generous

lashings of leather, soften and help to make the rooms feel cozy

and comfy. Bespoke storage units and playful accessories all

contribute to the unique look and feel of the place. If you are

looking for a hotel with its own distinctive, critically acclaimed

style, that’s pleasing on the eye and functions beautifully yet

shuns conventional cookie cutter designs that plague so many

urban chain hotels, then Miss Clara is your place.

At street level, there is a vibrant brasserie- style restaurant,

open all day everyday, which is as much for the neighbourhood as

it is for guests. There is nothing better than checking in to a hotel

or coming down from one’s room and seeing a place with a bit of

a buzz and people chatting, socialising, laughing and enjoying

themselves. The Stockholm that is encapsulated by Miss Clara is

youthful, forward thinking, fashionable and down to earth. The

restaurant’s breakfast buffet is a real treat, showcasing many

locally sourced organic products, including gluten free options,

homemade granolas and jams as well as a popular waffle maker.

In addition to the main restaurant and adjacent to the hotel, Giro

is a very popular gourmet pizza parlour, which is the result of a

collaboration between Miss Clara by Nobis and one of the world's

oldest pizzerias, Da Michele, founded in 1906. The Marinara and

Margherita are quite simply pizza heaven.

A sauna, fitness area and well-equipped conference rooms

round out the hotel’s facilities. As part of Nobis – one of Sweden’s

leading high-end hotel and restaurant operators – service

standards at Miss Clara are extremely high. The diverse staff are

young, hardworking, professional and eager to please. Miss Clara

is the contemporary hospitality face of a striking city with a proud

history but with two feet firmly planted in the 21 st century.

www.missclarahotel.com



SEE

VASA MUSEUM

Housing a completely intact early 17 th

century warship that sank on her maiden

voyage in the waters just outside Stockholm,

Vasa Museum is the most visited attraction

in all of Scandinavia. In fact the Vasa ship is

the only intact original example of its size

anywhere in the world. It lay on the seabed

for 333 years before a decades long

dredging, lifting and restoration process

brought it back to its current, magnificent

state. To visit Vasa is not only about being

awestruck by the beauty and scale of the

actual ship, but also to learn about early 17 th

century Sweden as it began its ascent as a

Baltic superpower, and to appreciate what it

took to build such ships, and what life was

like onboard. The thirty-minute guided tour

and fifteen-minute video (explaining the

shop’s recovery and restoration process) are

both highly recommended. Located on

Djurgården Island – Stockholm’s garden and

museum playground – visiting Vasa Museum

is without doubt a highlight when exploring

Stockholm. www.vasamuseet.se

MODERNA MUSEET

Stockholm’s modern art museum may not

have the clout of some of the world’s

greatest, but it makes up for it in creative

and daring, well curated exhibitions, that

showcase the best of established and

up-and-coming contemporary artists.

Alternative installation platforms, including

video, digital, sculpture and paintings of all

kinds of materials are usually featured. The

museum nimbly cherry-picks the best

avant-garde international artists when

scheduling its temporary exhibitions. The

permanent collection features multiple

works from the best-known artists of the

20 th century. Andy Warhol chose the

museum as the first in Europe to display his

works. Nordic artists are also well

represented. The building, designed by

Spanish architect, Rafael Moneo, is located

on Skeppsholmen Island, easily accessible by

short ferry from Djurgården or walking from

the Grand Hôtel past the National Museum


on the Skeppsholmen Bridge. Be sure to stop

and enjoy the view. www.modernamuseet.se

FOTOGRAFISKA

Open since 2010, the Swedish Museum of

Photography has quickly established itself as

one of the finest in the world, and presents a

creative, cosmopolitan and fun-loving face

of modern Sweden. Housed in a former 1906

Customs House, the waterfront Art Nouveau

building on the northern bank of

Stockholm’s Sodermalm district, has become

one of the city’s most beloved destinations

for locals as well as visitors. Fotografiska

strives to exhibit internationally acclaimed

photographers, as well as those who are less

well known. The museum stages four major

shows per year, plus 15-20 capsule exhibits.

The lively top floor café, restaurant and

lounge space has DJ nights plus occasional

live music. The spectacular views and

industrial chic décor add to the über-modern

ambience, and the museum’s late opening

‘til 1am Thursdays through Saturdays has

rendered it something of a social hub.

www.fotografiska.eu

VASA MUSEUM

ABBA: THE MUSEUM

ABBA, the Swedish pop quartet that took the

world by storm in the 1970s and early 80s,

sold almost 400 million records and spawned

Mamma Mia, the hit musical and film. There

is no better place in the world to celebrate all

things ABBA than the group’s dedicated

museum on Stockholm’s Djurgården Island.

From the individual group’s pre ABBA days,

to Waterloo - their first hit single of 1974

Eurovision contest fame - and all the gold

and platinum records that followed, and on

to the world tours and the outrageous

disco-inspired costumes, it’s all chronicled in

ABBA The Museum. Interactive stations

throughout the museum allow visitors to

create fun videos of them performing as

ABBA members. The cross section of visitors

to the museum is hugely diverse in terms of

age, nationality and demographic, a

testament to the wide reaching impact ABBA

has had over the decades. It’s nostalgic,

entertaining and heartwarming. Advance

purchase tickets are highly recommended.

www.abbathemuseum.com


MODERNA MUSEET

STADSHUSET

Stockholm’s City Hall, completed in 1923, is one of the city’s most iconic buildings and one of the most famous in Sweden.

Occupying a privileged centrally located waterfront perch on the eastern tip of Kungsholmen Island, the enormous piazza to the

rear, offers spectacular 180-degree views over Stockholm’s inner harbour, taking in Gamla Stan, Riddarholmen and the cliff top

period buildings of Södermalm to the south. The views from the piazza alone are worth the visit. The elegantly austere main

red brick building with its clean lines, high central tower and decorative embellishments is a fine example of Sweden’s National

Romantic style, the country’s architectural equivalent of Art Nouveau. As a matter of national pride, all materials, including the

marble, were sourced locally. The interiors are breathtaking, with grand room after grand room decorated with frescoes and

mosaics, and design symbolism evoking the history and mythology of Sweden. The ground floor Blue Hall is the site of the

annual Nobel Prize award-giving ceremony. Visitors can only gain access to the interiors via one of the many guided tours

scheduled each day. www.international.stockholm.se/the-city-hall

ARCHIPELAGO TOUR

Whilst Stockholm is comprised of 14 islands, the city’s archipelago is made up of more than 30,000, of which around 150 are

inhabited. One in six Stockholmers owns a boat and it is easy to understand why. Once cruising on a boat, the city soon fades

away, revealing a delightful waterborne landscape of forested islands, dotted with red and yellow timber houses and cabins.

Strömma is a tour company that offers a variety of sightseeing options, including the popular half-day archipelago tour, and full

day options that go further out or stop off at Vaxholm, effectively the capital of the archipelago. A quaint and historic town on

an island of the same name, Vaxholm has charmed visitors for centuries. Strömma tours depart from Stockholm’s exclusive

Strandvägen, in front of the Hotel Diplomat, on lovingly refurbished, period steamer ships. www.stromma.se


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TASTE

ETT HEM

If you’re looking for a cutting edge Scandinavian culinary adventure you will

find it at Ett Hem. The extraordinarily creative menu is enhanced by inventive

flavour pairings and unusual mostly local ingredients, which make for a unique

and delicious dining experience. The menu changes roughly every two weeks

in order to ensure that only the freshest and most seasonal ingredients are

used. Eating at Ett Hem is like being invited into someone’s home. There is a

large black lacquer common table in the main house, and additional individual

tables past the home-style kitchen in the conservatory overlook a beautiful

patio garden. The restaurant is just one part of Ett Hem, which is essentially a

seductively stylish luxe boutique hotel, the brainchild of proprietor, Jeanette

Mix. Set within in a gorgeous Ilse Crawford-designed 12-room 20 th century

townhouse, in Stockholm’s elegant Östermalm residential neighbourhood, Ett

Hem is the type of place you’ll wish you could move into permanently. Arrive

early for drinks and stay late for coffee after dinner in the suite of welcoming

salons and living rooms. Reservations essential. www.etthem.se



OPERABAREN

Operabaren is a Stockholm institution

that has been serving classic Swedish

cuisine in a sumptuous setting since

1905. Located to the side of Stockholm’s

main opera house, at the foot of

Kungsträdgården, Operabaren’s

gorgeous period interiors are bedecked

with decorated plaster ceilings, stained

glass, wood paneling and leather

banquette seating, all contributing to the

vibe of an established gentlemen’s club.

Dining here is a welcome throwback to a

bygone era. Artists and intellectuals

mingle with businessmen and tourists to

enjoy the country’s culinary classics,

including Swedish meatballs with

lingonberries, veal and calves liver, plus

a list of daily specials. Open for lunch

through dinner, Operabaren is intimate

and always popular so it’s best to book

ahead. Not to be confused with the

larger and more formal gourmet

Operakällaren, which is right next-door

and under the same ownership.

www.opearkalleren.se

VERANDA

For a Swedish smörgåsbord with all the

trimmings head to Veranda, the light

filled glass fronted restaurant at Grand

Hôtel. A traditional Smörgåsbord is a

buffet-style assortment of cold and hot

classic Swedish dishes. Cured herrings

prepared in all kinds of ways, followed

by smoked and marinated salmons and

then on to the hot dishes of meatballs

and veal cutlets are generally the order

of the day. There are all sorts of breads,

salads and soups to round off this

culinary experience. For the Swedes, a

smörgåsbord meal is very much a

celebratory affair, necessitating

multiple trips to the buffet. At Veranda

the experience is made that much more

special, by the spectacular views

looking out over the water to Gamla

Stan and Södermalm beyond. Be sure to

sample Grand Hôtel’s homemade house

schnapps, 1874 Grand Aquavit,

flavoured with fennel, aniseed, caraway


and cherry. There is also an excellent à

la carte menu, should the sprawling

buffet not be your thing.

www.grandhotel.se

NOSH AND CHOW

Located on a quiet corner in the midst of

the collection of streets that make up the

design and fashion hub of Östermalm,

Nosh and Chow is a sophisticated bistro

with a buzz that would feel at home in

New York, Paris or London. The

sophisticated décor – with its dark

brown colour scheme, gold accents and

exposed ceilings – feels glamorous and

cozy. The continental cuisine is well

presented and tasty. Service is attentive

and professional. Nosh and Chow is a

favourite with chic locals and

international travelers in tune with

Stockholm’s vibrant dining scene. Solo

diners will feel at home sitting at the

restaurant bar counter watching the

comings and goings of this popular spot.

In addition to the main restaurant, under

the same roof there’s a larger upscale

bar across the entrance hall, a private

members’ club and an inviting outdoor

terrace, plus and a groovy lounge bar

upstairs which attracts a younger, hip

crowd. www.noshandchow.se

NOSH AND CHOW

BABETTE

Located in a quiet part of Vasastaden, in

the northeastern part of the city centre,

Babette is an unpretentious and

welcome addition to Stockholm’s

burgeoning restaurant scene. A modern

neigbourhood bistro that delivers

unfussy and rustic food and is only open

for dinner, Babette excels at tapas-style

smaller dishes and pizzas, as well as

excellent steak tartare and grilled fish.

The owners are friendly and on hand to

offer suggestions and guide diners

through the daily specials. Given that

they previously worked at some of

Stockholm’s finest establishments, they

know something about food and

service. The wine list is excellent.

Customers keep coming back. Though

reservations are recommended, a


limited number of walk-ins are

accepted every night. www.babette.se

BEBETTE

NOOK

URBAN DELI

NOOK

Stockholm’s hipster Södermalm district

boasts a number of restaurants that

offer creative cuisine in design friendly

spaces at relatively affordable prices.

Nook has emerged as one of the best,

offering Nordic flavours with Asian and

Mediterranean influences. Nook

juxtaposes street food and fine dining in

a unique culinary offering. Sashimi,

monkfish and reindeer accented with

kimchi, ginger and rosemary were some

of the choices on a recent night. Nook

usually offers a few three-course set

menus, with the option to order a variety

of small dishes on the side. Menus

change every few weeks to reflect what

is seasonal and fresh. Sit at the bar for

tapas or book in advance for the intimate

checkerboard-floored dining room.

Order three days in advance for Nook’s

suckling pig feast. Ambitious food

pairings with delicious results at

affordable prices ensures Nook’s

ongoing rising popularity.

www.nookrestaurang.se

URBAN DELI

With two locations – one in central

Norrmalm and the other in the heart of

Södermalm’s SoFo – Urban Deli is a

smart food concept store that stocks

Swedish and international prepared and

packaged foods to eat in or take away.

It’s a combination upscale boutique

supermarket cum café/restaurant,

perfect for light shopping, catering a

small dinner party or eating-in. The

Södermalm outlet is particularly popular

and something of a social hub for the

surrounding trendy and gentrified

neighbourhood. Urban Deli’s stylish and

well-lit modern interiors are regularly

frequented by Stockholm’s trendy

urbanites. Fusion food outlets like Urban

Deli, contribute to Stockholm’s growing

global reputation as a thriving modern

gastronomic capital, on par with the

best. www.urbandeli.org


GASTON

SIP

THE GOLD BAR

The hint is in the name. The bar in the chic and well-established Nobis Hotel is a vision in gold, and oozes luxury, sex appeal

and fun. Gold-mirrored walls and ceilings reflect the marble floors and the full-length quartz bar. The low lighting and gold

colour scheme create a warm halo throughout the space, ensuring a cosy and intimate experience. Consistently ranked as one

of the best cocktail bars in Sweden, The Gold Bar attracts all manner of cosmopolitan types, from the conservatively dressed to

the more individual and creative, across a range of ages. Located on Norrmalmstorg in the heart of Östermalm’s luxury

shopping district, The Gold Bar is perfectly situated for pre and post dinner drinks. www.nobishotel.se

LILLA BAREN @ RICHE

Founded in 1893, Riche was one of the first Parisian style bistros to open in Stockholm. It has been consistently popular ever

since. Although Riche the restaurant is steeped in tradition, Lilla Baren, the separate bar area, attracts a younger and more

artistic crowd of fashion types plus the odd eccentric which always makes for a fun night. Monthly exhibitions of

up-and-coming artists help to keep Lilla Baren fresh. This is a rowdy and popular place, particularly on the weekends. Located

in between Birger Jarlsgatan and Stureplan, in the heart of Östermalm’s entertainment district, Lilla Baren offers a more down

to earth experience than the typical posh drinking venues in this part of Stockholm. www.riche.se

GASTON

In a city where it’s sometimes hard to find great wine without a multi-course tasting menu on the side, Gaston is a

wine-lover’s breath of fresh air. Located in Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s centrally located island old town, around 400 wines from

smaller producers in France, Germany, Austria, Italy and California are served in a modern Nordic space, from a bronze-backed

bar across marble countertops. The vibe is chilled and friendly. Yummy small plates are also available. Part of former footballer


Björn Frantzén’s gastronomic empire, which also includes the fine dining Flying Elk across the street, as well as the popular

Corner Club, there is also a Gaston in NK department store. www.gaston.se

HIMLEN

In Södermalm, on the 25 th and 26 th floors of the Skrapen skyscraper, Himlen commands panoramic views across all of central

Stockholm. While the 25 th floor is reserved for Himlen’s fine dining restaurant, the 26 th floor is where you will find the more laid

back lounge and deluxe cocktail bar. In a city where spectacular views abound, the views from Himlen will literally take your

breath away. Order a bespoke craft cocktail from one of Himlen’s skilled bartenders, sit back, sip and take in the panoramic

360-degree vistas more than 100 metres above Stockholm. www.restauranghimlen.se

TJOGET

With a relaxed and energetic vibe that’s immensely popular with the hip residents of the Hornstull part of Södermalm, Tjoget is

an interesting concept space that combines Linje Tio restaurant, Hornstulls Bodega bar and classic barbershop, Roy & Son,

under the same roof. Innovative cocktails and an extensive wine list, fused with the intriguing interior aesthetics and warm

atmosphere make Tjoget well worth a look in. www.tjoget.com

MÄLARPAVILJONGEN

This enchanting, renowned summer-only bar, restaurant and garden-oriented venue occupies a prime waterfront spot, a

leisurely ten-minute walk past Stockholm’s city hall, on the scenic Norr Mälarstrand esplanade. This is fair weather Stockholm

at its very best. The interspacing of the shore nature with elaborate landscaping creates a verdant oasis of pure loveliness. The

sleek bar and seating area are actually built on a floating pontoon, allowing for a more dramatic view and complete experience

than other waterfront venues. Come in the daytime on a weekday for a more tranquil experience, or in the evenings and

weekends for a much livelier party vibe. This unique and charismatic Stockholm spot is not to be missed.

www.malarpaviljongen.se

MÄLARPAVILJONGEN


SPEND

MODERNITY

Modernity deals in exclusive museum and auction quality

Scandinavian vintage furniture and design pieces,

including ceramics, jewelry and glassware, with an

emphasis on 20 th century post war design. Owners

Andrew and Isaac have an obvious passion for what they

do. Each unique item for sale in their store has a story or

history which they are happy to share. Modernity

regularly shows at leading furniture and antique fairs in

London and New York. International interior designers

and their clients are Modernity’s regular clientele, but the

store is open to anyone who wishes to peruse and buy.

Items are individually priced to reflect their quality and

provenance. Located on a quiet street in central

Stockholm, Modernity is very close to Östermalms

Saluhall food hall. www.modernity.se

NORDISKA KOMPANIET

Nordiska Kompaniet, known locally as NK, is Stockholm’s

equivalent of London’s Harrods, Paris’ Galeries Lafayette

or Manhattan’s Bergdorf Goodman. Housed in a huge

landmark building dating back to the early 1900s, with

its signature oversized rooftop signage towering over

central Stockholm, NK is a luxurious emporium retailing

only the crème de la crème of local and international

brands. From fashion to furniture to food hall and

everything in between, NK tastefully curates the best of

the best with an elegant Scandinavian sensibility.

Exclusive Bobergs Matsal two Michelin-starred

restaurant is located on the top floor. NK’s Christmas

windows are a yearly source of festive joy to

Stockholmers. www.nk.se

ACNE STUDIOS

Over the past decade, Sweden has emerged as a global

fashion leader. Acne Studios is an independent Swedish

brand that has successfully transitioned from mostly

denim to ready-to-wear Paris catwalk. Acne (which

stands for Ambition to Create Novel Expression), excels at

producing contemporary fashion forward avant-garde

designs, using excellent materials and skilled

craftsmanship. With outlets around the world – in

everywhere from from Los Angeles to Shanghai – Acne’s

flagship store on Norrmalmstorg square in central

Stockholm is very much the brand’s mother ship and

flagship store. Located in the former bank building where

the 1973 heist took place that gave rise to the term

‘Stockholm Syndrome’, you can still see the vaults in the

basement. www.acnestudios.com

MODERNITY



AB NORDISKA GALLERIET

One of Europe’s leading contemporary design and

furniture showrooms, AB Nordiska Galleriet showcases

the best of Scandinavian and international design.

Though it’s not only the featured designers who make

Nordiska so special, but also how the store mixes

contemporary classic furniture with a large selection of

décor, lighting and gift items, in stunning visual displays.

Nordiska really does set the bar high with its expert

presentation of Nordic design style, including

showcasing designers who are not Scandinavian. Even if

you are not in the market for furniture, Nordiska retails a

superb selection of design-oriented home décor gift

items, that will fit in your luggage to travel home with.

Located on Nybrogatan in Östermalm.

www.nordiskagalleriet.se

SVENSK TENN

Svensk Tenn has been a Stockholm design institution

since art teacher Estrid Ericson started the company in

1924, with sustainability, quality and commitment its

core values. The defining style is mostly Art Nouveau

inspired, a bridge between old and new that combines

colour with inspirations from naturally occurring flora

and fauna. When Josef Frank – one of the leaders of

the Art Nouveau movement in the 1920s and 30s –

was forced to flee Vienna, he settled in Stockholm and

made Svensk Tenn his home until he died. His

furniture designs and textiles are displayed in

museums around the world. At Svensk Tenn, these

designs and those of others are available

commercially, and walking through its doors is like

entering a fresh new retail world of nature-inspired

housewares and fashion. Svensk Tenn also boasts a

rather inviting second floor café overlooking the

harbour. www.svenskttenn.se

GRANDPA

Located in the heart of Södermalm’s eclectic SoFo

neighbourhood, Grandpa is a charming yet cool store,

retailing well-designed and creative housewares,

vintage pieces, Swedish fashion, shoes, jewellery,

accessories and kick-knacks. Think Sandqvist bags, Hay

interior pieces, Vitra pouches and Minimarket dresses.

At Grandpa the atmosphere and experience is the main

focus, and DJs and live music often provide a musical

backdrop, and you’ll find everything from light fixtures

to outerware, Scandinavian brands mixed side-by-side

with top international names. An emphasis on organic

materials and sustainability adds to the hipster

credibility of this funky SoFo institution.

www.grandpa.se


GRANDPA

SVENSKT TENN

AB NORDISKA GALLERIET



Presidential Suite, Grand Hyatt Goa

In Goa, Nicholas Chrisostomou discovers a suite fit for

royalty within a luxe hospitality haven – minus the hippies

My friends rolled their eyes when I mentioned I

was going to Goa, India's guaranteed

good-time hedonistic haven. In the west of

the country, bordering the Arabian Sea, Goa is

a place synonymous with society dropouts and

backpackers who prefer to spend their days getting high on

the beach rather than taking in the region's incredible

kaleidoscopic mix of Indian and Portuguese cultural sites.

But in recent years Goa has gone to great lengths to appeal

to a more high-spending class of holiday-maker, and has

done its level best to try and shed the rave scene image

that first made the Indian state world-famous.

Back in its hippy heyday, thousands of budget tourists, life's

lost souls, and travelling bohemian types would routinely

vanish amongst Goa's plethora of lunar gatherings and

druggy raves. Some never left and are still wandering around;

and, yes, there’s still plenty of mindless revelry in the area,

and many cheap visitors still frequent Goa to lose themselves,

or disconnect from life's responsibilities on a diet of magic

mushrooms and Goan trance. But happily the Goa of today

has somewhat come of age – or so I’d been told..

I’d heard from various people about a chic new-look Goa,

which favoured culture and indulgence over bongo drums

and beach shacks. A Goa that Hollywood A-listers,

dedicated yoga aficionados, and selective spa devotees

escaped to repeatedly. A Goa boasting smart, sprawling

resort hotels offering tailored service, attention to detail,

exceptional cuisine, premium hospitality, and

value-for-money luxury. Since my last visit to Goa had

been twenty years previously – when I went to a

‘half-moon party’, sat under a tree, tried to smoke

something indescribable, wore just a lunghi and drank tea

served by a withered old lady – I was determined to find

the new Goa that so many of my contemporaries raved

about, pardon the pun.

Perhaps due to an increase in the number of well-heeled

passengers wishing to explore Goa, many premium Middle

Eastern carriers – including Qatar Airways and Emirates –

now regularly fly direct, as well as countless European

airlines. I flew Oman Air from Muscat, and the business

class cabin on my flight was full.

Discerning vacationers travelling to the Goa of today are

well-catered for by a multitude of deluxe, international

five-star hotels, as well as a good selection of swanky,


individually designed resorts. Of all the recognisable

international hospitality brands, Grand Hyatt Goa stands

out as one of the best properties in the north.

Set on beautifully manicured grounds of 28 acres directly

on the beach, in a prominent position overlooking the gulf

of Bambolim, and benefitting from panoramic vistas across

the bay, Hyatt's sprawling Goan resort is something of a

departure from what one might expect of the global

American hotel brand. Inspired by the grandeur of 17 th

century Indo-Portuguese palaces, Grand Hyatt Goa has

been skillfully designed to be open, accessible and relaxed.

At no time did I ever feel like I was staying in a hotel of

more than 300 rooms. Everything felt personal, connected

and warm. The hotel’s enclave of seven detached, low-rise

guest houses with whitewashed stone walls topped with

steep, terracotta-tiled roofs, that are dotted around the

much larger, palace-style main building, lend a sense of

structure, calmness and tranquility to the entire place. Teak

shutters, recessed balconies, winding pathways, reflecting

pools, trickling fountains and an abundance of lush

botanicals add to the charm and character of the hotel.

Whilst rambling lawns, a scenically ruined moss-covered

17 th century chapel, and towering ancient banyans give the

surrounding gardens an established and exotic feel.

Special hotel suites come in all shapes and sizes, and it has

to be said that the word ‘presidential’ is sometimes

misplaced. I’ve stayed in some suites that felt distinctly less

than regal in hotels that were otherwise virtual palaces.

Sometimes the room just doesn't do what it says on the tin.

A suite labeled as ‘presidential’ infers the best

accommodation in the building, super-attentive service,

extra facilities, exceptional attention to detail, and a host of

other services associated with residing in a hotel’s most

expensive lodgings. More often than not, a fancy suite can

feel vast, impersonal and unloved, but I can honestly say

that Grand Hyatt Goa’s Presidential Suite completely

lived-up to the hype. For starters, an Audi Q5 and driver

were provided 24/7 at no extra charge. Particularly when

visiting India, a car and chauffeur really is rather handy for a

tourist. Then, there was the personalised butler service, on

call via WhatsApp. Not to mention a whole host of other staff

offered at no extra cost and dedicated to making my stay as

presidential and fuss-free as possible, including a dietitian,

chef, security officer, trainer, therapist, Ayurvedic doctor,

yoga instructor and IT geek. I only took advantage of the

butler service and yoga instructor, but it was good to know


that so many other professionals were on stand-by should I

have needed to shed some pounds, or find my inner self.

The Presidential Suite was an expansive 300m 2 of opulent,

yet comfortable, deluxe accommodation laid out

apartment-like across the front of the hotel’s premium

Grand Club building, with all rooms facing the water. A

smart, square entrance hall (with guest cloakroom),

provided a suitably impressive arrival experience for

visitors. A host of terraces up-and-down the suite looked

towards the Arabian Sea from both king-sized bedrooms at

either end, and the flowing 25-metre open-plan living,

dining and entertaining space in between. A full kitchen off

the dining area, with a separate entrance from outside,

was amply sized and sufficiently well appointed for chefs

to prepare gourmet meals. At the centre of the lounge, a

cocktail bar fully-stocked with bottles of complimentary

premium spirits was complete with olives, mixers and

every conceivable glass and acoutrement a mixologist

could possibly wish for. I set-up my laptop in the personal

office just off the entrance hall, and within an hour the

place felt like home.

The spacious and well-appointed master bedroom suite

was equipped with a family-sized Jacuzzi overlooking the

sea, an oversized walk-in shower with multiple rain-heads,

and a large dressing room complete with private entrance,

affording the butlers discreet access to deliver laundry

quite literally directly into the wardrobes.

Every surface was sprinkled with gorgeous vases and

tasteful ornaments to complement the plush décor and

curious, colourful artworks which adorned the walls. Vases

of fresh flowers were changed daily. Every night I came

back to scented candles which had been lit while I was at

dinner. The first morning I had a one-to-one yoga session

on the private terrace, to a calming backdrop of waves

gently lapping the beach and birds singing in the

overhanging palms. This was a suite to unwind in and

enjoy, and had it not been for the hotel’s tempting

restaurants and spa, I could have easily stayed put for the

next four days and not ventured anywhere.

On the occasions I did leave the Presidential Suite, the

polite and attentive service I experienced in all parts of

Grand Hyatt Goa was second to none. Whilst it seemed like

no one could do enough for me personally, I got the

distinct feeling that everyone was experiencing the same –


since genuine calm, happiness, and contentment

seemed to saturate the property.

It would be remiss of me not to mention the

multitude of food options, spa treatments and

wellness programs available in the hotel, plus the

numerous on-property activities and outside

excursions bookable to personalise guest stays. I was

given a cocktail-making lesson, sipped sundowners

at a hip cliff-edge bar in Small Vagator village, and

spent a morning exploring Old Goa – the 15 th century

colonial capital of the former Portuguese eastern

empire. My downtime was whiled away around

Grand Hyatt’s extensive swimming pool area, and

luxuriating in the hotel’s award-winning Shamana

Spa, which offered a serene retreat complete with a

variety of pools, wet areas and 19 treatment rooms.

Run by Alejandro Leo, a highly experienced spa pro,

having a treatment at Shamana was an intensely

relaxing and rejuvenating pleasure.

Of the many gastronomic options available on site at

Grand Hyatt Goa, the exceptionally tasty traditional

Indian fare served at Chulha deserves a special

mention. Prepared by Chef de Cuisine, Vicky

Chaudhary, so delicious was the food at Chulha, that

I dined there three times during my stay.

I revisited Goa after 20 years really unsure what to

expect, and I left Grand Hyatt already planning my

next visit. What I experienced first-hand in my short

stay in the West Indian state was a deep desire to

please discerning travellers, provide top-end service

and deliver a genuinely caring vacation experience. If

the local hoteliers and Goan authorities continue as

they are presently, it won’t be long before the

destination’s characteristic rave scene is completely

overtaken by high-end cultured travellers, and Goa is

able to compete on a level playing field with its Asian

holiday industry peers.

Nicholas Chrisostomou visited

Grand Hyatt Goa in November 2016.

In December 2016 and January 2017 the average

nightly rate for the two-bedroom Presidential Suite

is USD 3,000 plus taxes, inclusive of breakfast,

an Audi Q5 and driver plus a team of staff.

www.goa.grand.hyatt.com




CULTUREDCHAT

WITH

GORDON CAMPBELL GRAY

SCOTTISH-BORN 2002 HOTELIER OF THE YEAR, GORDON

CAMPBELL GRAY, HAS NEVER BEEN BUSIER. THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER CHATS WITH THE LUXURY HOTELIER WHO CREATED

ONE ALDWYCH, CARLISLE BAY AND LE GRAY, AS HE SETS OFF ON

YET ANOTHER HOSPITALITY JOURNEY INVOLVING NEW HOTELS,

RESIDENTIAL APARTMENTS AND EVEN A CHOCOLATE BRAND.

Please tell us a little bit about your background and

upbringing.

I was born in the West of Scotland. It was very beautiful and

comfortable and I feel so fortunate to have had such

wonderful parents and family, thus a very solid springboard

into life. I think this is one of the most valuable assets in life

and would wish it on everyone.

From where does your love for hotels and hospitality

stem?

I had an aunt who virtually lived in Claridge’s in London and

I used to love my visits to see her there. It was during these

glamorous dinners, when I was a little boy, that the seed

was planted.

At what point in your life did you realise that hotels

were to be your career, and was there a particular

event that was pivotal?

Deep down I had always wanted to be an architect, but alas

I simply couldn't master science therefore the university

faculty wouldn't admit me. It was then that I chose – to my

family's horror, I have to say – to be a hotelier.

It's said that you walked out of hotel school. Why?!

I left hotel school because quite frankly I was very

underwhelmed by both the teachers and the pupils. I felt it was

all rather average. Had I been at École hôtelière de Lausanne,

hospitality management school in Switzerland (widely

regarded as the best in the world), I am sure I would have felt

much differently. But I wasn't, I was in Scotland. It was at this

point that I realised I did not want to conform, and ever since

my motto has always been, “paddle your own canoe!”

Has one particular person ever greatly inspired you in

life or been your mentor?

Anita Roddick was a friend, and as well as being a great

creator (of The Body Shop), she was an entrepreneur, a

businesswoman and most importantly an activist. She

often used to say to me, “Gordon, just do it!” I have since

always strived to follow this course.


Tell us about your time as assistant food and beverage

controller at London's Portman InterContinental, and

deputy general manager at London's Athenaeum.

I have worked in every hotel department since there really is no

short cut to properly learning a craft. Assistant food and beverage

controller was excruciatingly boring but essential to my training. I

learned a lot as a five-star deputy general manager of a branded

hotel, but what I learned most of all was that I absolutely I did

not, and could not, work in the corporate world.

In the mid 1980s you bought the 21-room Feathers in the

Cotswolds market town of Woodstock, and the 35-room

Draycott in Chelsea, London. What drove you to make

your own mark in the hospitality industry while still in

your twenties and how did you go about achieving it?

I realised that I had to create my own hotels and put into practice

all the things that I had learnt and believed in, and which I

couldn't do as an employee in a large company. I am happy to

say that the results were super.

THE PHOENICIA, MALTA

In the early 90s, you moved to the States to buy, refurbish

and run The Maidstone Arms in East Hampton. Please tell

us about this experience and your time in NYC.

I sold-up in the UK, took a year off and lived by the beach in The

Hamptons, which was bliss. Then the opportunity came up to

revitalise The Maidstone Arms in East Hampton and I just couldn't

resist.

In 1996 you returned to the UK to work on One Aldwych in

Covent Garden, a hotel that was much praised for its

contemporary design, innovative approach to luxury and

strong green credentials. Please tell us about this project

and how One Aldwych was unique.

Creating One Aldwych was certainly a pivotal moment in my

career. I had a vision for a new style of five-star hotel. I wanted it

to be modern but not trendy. I wanted it to be fresh, innovative

and environmentally considerate. I wanted it to present a new

form of friendly, super-efficient and relaxed service. And I wanted

it to become a modern classic. One Aldwych soon became quite

iconic and is certainly one of the achievements of which I am

most proud, not least that I believe that, in its way, it became a

hotel game changer.

LE GRAY, BERUT

How did being named Hotelier of the Year by The Caterer

in 2002 change your life and career?

I must say – and I think I speak for all the winners of this award –

that it is a very special honour. It is the one award you think that you

will never win, and the one that you value the most when you do.

You have spent many years volunteering in third world

regions, including Bangladesh, Ethiopia and Nicaragua,


LE GRAY, BERUT

WHEN I WAS

TWENTY-TWO AND

WENT TO BANGLADESH

TO RUN THE SAVE THE

CHILDREN PROJECT

THERE, I NEVER COULD

HAVE IMAGINED HOW

MUCH IT WOULD

CHANGE MY LIFE

and you are vice president of Save the Children. How has

this worthwhile work influenced your life and outlook?

Enormously. When I was twenty-two and went to Bangladesh to

run the Save the Children project there, I never could have

imagined how much it would change my life. When you

experience such suffering and poverty you are fundamentally

changed for life. It is for this reason that respecting and treating

people well becomes such a huge part of living in a civilised

way, and then incorporating this into how you run a business

and look after its employees, and in my case, since I am a

hotelier, also taking care of hotel guests.

Year-on-year parents continued to plump for

CampbellGray's Caribbean outpost, Carlisle Bay, which

you were involved with for 10 years until 2014. What

would you say was the key to your decade-long success

at Carlisle Bay?

In creating Carlisle Bay we produced a truly lovely, relaxed resort

in a spectacular setting. But what makes Carlisle Bay so special

is not simply the glorious sunshine and beautiful turquoise sea,

but the local Antiguan people who are utterly unique.

You've described Beirut as “one of the sexiest cities in the

world”. Please tell us what makes the Lebanese capital

such a magical place for you.

I have always had a special love for Beirut. Part of this affection

is because it is such a contrast to the environment in which I

grew up. We Scots tend to be rather serious, and of course when

you first experience Beirut one is thrust into a world of being out

and having fun every night, although after a while I learned to

reign in the going out. This having been said, it was having the

wonderful opportunity to create Le Gray in Beirut that has been

the best. From a hole in the ground to what it is now, has been

one of the most exciting journeys I have ever taken, and despite

all the difficulties encountered in such a complicated country, I

still love the city.

In 2009 you opened 87-room Le Gray in the heart of

Beirut, which has since won countless accolades and a

litany of loyal guests. To what do you attribute Le Gray

success?

I think that we simply created and designed a hotel that was

right for Beirut. Our hotels are all different, and feel like cousins

to each other rather than brothers and sisters. We are currently

just finishing work on an extension to Le Gray, which will open

in early 2017, adding a ballroom, more bedrooms and suites, a

lobby lounge and private screening room to the hotel.

CAMPBELLGRAY AMMAN

What is your favourite hotel in the world (to stay as a

guest) and why?

That’s a very difficult question! I am lucky to spend so much


time staying in some of the most beautiful hotels in the

world. One of my favourites is La Colombe d'Or in

Saint-Paul-de-Vence in France. I stay there at the same

time every year, as do most of the guests, which makes it

feels like a private club. It is old fashioned, has an

unbelievable (and I mean unbelievable) art collection and

an amazing restaurant where the menu hasn't changed for

twenty years. If it did there would be an uprising!

Due to reopen in January 2017 after a two-year

renovation, the 136-bedroom Phoenicia, in the heart

of Valetta’s Old Town on the island of Malta, will be

the first hotel within the CampbellGray Classics

collection. How has this hotel been transformed

under your guidance?

I had always wanted the chance to restore a grand old hotel,

so when the opportunity came up to do just that at the

Phoenicia I was overjoyed. It is a stunning hotel, sitting in

seven acres of garden, and we have reimagined it retaining

all of its original character while making it feel like now.

There is a brand new spa and indoor and outdoor pools and

it is scheduled to open in early 2017. I love Malta and am

very excited about our new hotel there.

How has your Scottish background influenced

CampbellGray hotels and projects?

I think being Scottish is very grounding. We are very honest

and straightforward people and do not like showing off. I am

allergic to people who show off, so I suppose in a way this

has kept me away from developing hotels with the wrong

people!

Please tell The Cultured Traveller about the new

48-room CampbellGray Machrie Hotel in Scotland?

The Machrie is on the beautiful island of Islay, which is

home to many famous whisky distilleries. The hotel is a

classic Scottish country hotel on a very famous links golf

course. The golf course is open and the hotel is scheduled to

be completed by the end of 2017. I am particularly excited

about this project since I can hop on the ferry from my

house in Argyll and just nip across! It’s not an exaggeration

to say that this part of Scotland is amongst some of the

most beautiful and idyllic countryside in the world.

Is there anywhere you haven't yet visited which you

would like to, and why?

Bhutan, but this is about to be rectified very soon.

In April 2015, CampbellGray Hotels entered into

business with Jordanian-based Audeh Group, to

develop and operate properties to add to Le Gray

hotel in Beirut. How did this partnership come about

and how do you envisage it benefitting both

parties?

It adds extra firepower to our possibilities for expansion. It

came about through the owner of Audeh Group having

stayed at some of our hotels and asking if we would like to

become involved with his hotel and apartment project in

Amman. We discussed it and now we are business

partners.

As a consummate individualist, how are you coping

with being involved in a partnership, and has it

posed any challenges or brought about any

compromises to date?

It is not without its complications, but perhaps it is good for

me to be controlled a little!

Please tell us about your Baby Gray concept?

We basically plan to offer a boutique design hotel concept

that is stylish and clever, yet relevant to the more

cost-conscious traveller.

Where is your favourite place to vacation and do you

actually switch off when you're away from

CampbellGray's London HQ?

I travel extensively and often to beautiful and sunny

locations, so when it comes to deciding where to chill out,

recharge or spend some holiday time, I usually head home

to the West of Scotland where we live on a loch and have

no neighbours. This is the perfect place to switch off.

Please tell us about the new 180-bedroom Le Gray in

Amman, slated to open in 2017.

Amman is a very exciting project and the first branded

Campbell Gray Living. It consists of apartments, offices,

retail and a hotel. The apartments are completed, are

currently for sale and will be fully serviced by the hotel.

They have been finished to the highest standards and are

situated in Abdali, Amman's new downtown that provides

the Jordanian capital with central business, social and

residential areas. This very large project first introduced me

to Jordan, which I love and where I am spending

increasingly more time.

We understand that you have a great love for

chocolate and are even investigating the possibility

of launching your own brand?

I am indeed and you will hear about it soon. Life is nothing

if not a constant adventure!

www.campbellgrayhotels.com


I HAVE ALWAYS HAD A

SPECIAL LOVE FOR

BEIRUT. PART OF THIS

AFFECTION IS BECAUSE IT

IS SUCH A CONTRAST TO

THE ENVIRONMENT IN

WHICH I GREW UP.


SINGAPORE CHANGI

THE WORLD'S BEST AIRPORT 2012-16

With building a swish new airport or expanding an existing

terminus having multiple financial benefits for any nation, it's

little surprise that so many countries are busy constructing

fancy new terminals, some costing billions of Dollars. Many

countries are upgrading facilities, or have begun new air

travel-related building projects, to cope with the forecast

growth in the global number of air passengers travelling in

2017, which will see somewhere around 3.8 billion of us

taking to the skies in the new year.

A busy, expanded international airport encourages the

stopover market to grow in both the arriving and departing

destinations, which in turn boosts tourism, jobs and revenues.

to expand HIA's capacity to handle 53 million passengers a

year, and increase the number of gates. The cost for Doha's

airport current expansion? A cool USD 8 billion.

It might not be the largest, most expensive or busiest airport

in the world, or even in Asia, but Singapore’s Changi has

repeatedly been voted the greatest airplane terminus on the

planet. Named by SkyTrax as the World's Best Airport in 2016,

for the fourth consecutive year, when you take a look inside

Changi it's not hard to see why the global financial center's

much celebrated airport is so popular amongst travellers. It

has been the driving force not only behind the rapid growth of

More visitors passing through a country not only increases

traffic and flights, but also the visibility of a country on the

world travel and hospitality stage. Nowhere is this more

evident than Qatar, the tiny gas rich Gulf state, which boasts

the world's most expensive new airport of late, Hamad

International ("HIA"), reputed to have cost USD 15.5 billion to

construct. The opening of HIA in 2014 catapulted the profile of

the nation's capital, Doha, into the minds of the travelling

public at large. Millions of passengers have posted images on

social media, standing in front of HIA's 7-metre 20-ton cast

bronze canary yellow teddy bear in the departures hall, by

New York-based Swiss artist, Urs Fischer. And practically

everyone who travels regularly now has Qatar Airways in their

airline radar, the country's award-winning flag carrier. Such is

the speed with which Qatar Airways is growing – not to

mention the increased passenger numbers the FIFA World

Cup will bring to Qatar in 2022 – that plans are already afoot

the island city-state's award-winning flag carrier, Singapore

Airlines, but also brand Singapore.

The main reason for Changi's popularity and success, is

that the building is gradually growing with the trend which

has seen futuristic superstructures and shimmering glass

facades being introduced into airports, and a general blurring

of the lines between indoor and outdoor spaces. Changi has

been a leader in this area, with its butterfly garden and rooftop

green spaces. In fact, Changi has been designed to be as little

like your average airport as possible – which is probably why

it’s a perennial favourite among all who travel through it. Also,

Changi isn’t simply a place where Singaporeans go to travel.

It’s also a meeting point and a destination for locals – a place

to spend a weekend with family.

There are few airports where cherry blossom thrives in the

terminals. Changi is one of them. It’s also got a swimming

pool, a cactus garden, two free 24-hour movie theatres,


multiple rent-by-the-hour hotels, an outdoor rooftop

swimming pool and a six-metre waterfall to soothe

travel-weary souls. Just in case travellers didn’t get to sample

a certain dish while exploring the city (Singapore has a dozen

national dishes), terminal 3’s Singapore Food Street

essentially serves every must-try major dish.

High-speed Wi-Fi is free and unlimited throughout the

entire airport – and it actually works – with kiosks and

information counters located throughout the terminals to

distribute access codes. Dozens of device charging stations

are also located throughout.

The terminal 1 departures hall is home to Kinetic Rain, a

moving sculpture with an aviation theme, spanning 810ft 2

and containing more than 1,216 brass raindrops. The

installation makes 16 different shapes in loops of 15 minutes.

Installed in 2012 and designed by German design firm

Art+Com, Kinetic Rain is one of Changi's main art

100 airlines which the airport services.

International architect and 2015 AIA Gold Medal-winner,

Moshe Safdie – who designed the iconic Habitat 67 housing

complex in Montreal – began construction of Jewel Changi in

December 2014. Featuring a “Forest Valley” five-storey

garden, and a gigantic 40-metre-high “Rain Vortex” waterfall

at its centre, the massive doughnut-like terminal structure

appears to resemble the Land of Oz more than an airport.

According to Changi, Rain Vortex will be the world's tallest

indoor waterfall, and at night will transform into an

enthralling sound and light show. Project Jewel will also

contain multiple playgrounds and a new 130-room YOTEL.

Early check-in facilities at the complex will allow passengers

to drop-off luggage ahead of regular check-in times and

enjoy the facilities. Once finished – complete with hundreds

of trees, palms and ferns enclosed within its huge 134,000m 2

glass dome – the Jewel Changi's impressive steel-and-glass

installations, and entertains passengers and the public before

they even check-in for flights. Meanwhile, for children, there

are numerous interactive activities and games throughout the

terminals, including Changi's largest interactive installation,

the 9-metre Social Tree. Terminal 3 also boasts the world’s

tallest slide in an airport, at 12 metres high.

A few years ago, Changi began the 10-year process to double

its capacity to more than 135 million travellers. Commencing

with the opening of a futuristic new terminal known as "Jewel

Changi" in 2017, the airport will become an even greater

model for how to mass produce an iconic and superior

passenger experience, while treating each passenger like they

actually matter. Changi already connects 116 cities and 29

countries in Asia-Pacific, and 320 cities in 70 countries

overall, so any changes or improvements it makes touches an

awful lot of passengers flying through the region on one of

biosphere-style structure, will no doubt further elevate

Singapore's reputation as the ultimate, global garden city.

Safdie himself has said that the project is “the prototype of a

new kind of urban place”.

Yet even as the airport is putting the finishing touches to

its new jewel, it has already begun planning Changi East, a

2,700 acre expansion immediately east of the airport, that

will include a massive fifth terminal and an air facility both

roughly the same size as all existing terminals. Changi East is

scheduled to open in the late 2020s and will be connected to

the other four terminals, effectively creating one super airport.

The idea with Changi East, is to expand and unify the

passenger experience and help bring it to tens of millions of

more people across Southeast Asia, as Changi’s capacity

soars during the next decade. There really seems to be no

stopping the world's best airport.

www.changiairport.com www.jewelchangiairport.com


Pierre Koffman

Eileen Atkins

Mick Jagger

The Beatles

Nigel Havers

Dennis Potter

Sienna Miller

Peter Blake

Marco Pierre White

Sam Smith

Eartha Kit

Joe Orton Peter Cook

Imelda Staunton

Francis Bacon

Beryl Cook

Lucien Freud

Laurence Olivier

Janis Joplin

Coco

Frankie Howard

Chanel

Ella Fitzgerald

Diana

General de Gualle

Stephen Fry

Marianne Faithfull

Kenneth Halliwell

Dudley Moore

Danny La Rue

Elton Joh

Paloma Faith

Edward Heath

Cleo Laine

Judi Dench

Frank Sinatra

A SoHo Institution

Since 1927

Restaurant & Club Privé

Bar, Restaurant

& Club Privé

L’ Escargot

Depuis 1927

•

48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF

Telephone 020 7494 1318 www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk

Monday to Sunday:

All day until 1am

ZAC POSEN DESIGNS NEW DELTA UNIFORMS

A decade since the last broad overhaul of the airline's uniforms, Delta has

revealed its new long-awaited Zac Posen-created outfits for more than

60,000 frontline workers, though it’s the customer-facing uniforms for flight

attendants and airport-based customer service agents that will be the most

visible to passengers. Though they’re still more than a year away from hitting

the runway, the new collection of high-fashion yet classically-influenced

uniforms, was rolled-out during a catwalk-styled show in the company’s

RICHARD BRANSON FUNDS NEW SUPERSONIC JET

Group has confirmed that spaceship company, Virgin Galactic, will be

working with Denver-based startup, Boom, to build new supersonic jets,

and reintroduce commercial transatlantic flights which have been

missing from the travel industry since Concorde was scrapped in 2003.

Branson has partnered with pilot and technology entrepreneur, Blake

Scholl, founder & CEO of Boom. Boom is building the next-generation of

supersonic jets, promising 3½-hour flights from London to New York for

hometown of Atlanta, attended by New York-based designer, Zac Posen,

whose work has included producing frocks for countless high-profile ladies,

including Michelle Obama, Uma Thurman, Gwyneth Paltrow and Rihanna.

Posen's dynamic collection for Delta features subtle nods to aviation,

and a cute colour palette including Passport Plum, Groundspeed Graphite

and Skyline Slate. Cabin crew can choose from a V-neck dress, an

ottoman-skirt suit and a playful swing jacket. Menswear options include

a three-piece suit and a tie printed with Delta’s logo.

USD 5,000 return.

Virgin Galactic’s manufacturing arm, the Spaceship Company, will

provide engineering and manufacturing services, along with flight test

support and operations. Test flights will begin in southern California,

with plans to launch the first commercial departures in 2023. If

everything goes according to schedule, Boom flights will launch twenty

years after British Airways and Air France decommissioned Concorde.

www.boomsupersonic.com

NEW WIDE-BODIED A350-1000 TAKES TO THE SKIES

Airbus' new lightweight carbon-fibre A350-1000 wide-bodied jet has

taken to the skies for the first time. The largest and latest variant of the

company's flagship A350 line of jetliners, took off from Airbus’

headquarters near the French city of Toulouse, flying for several hours

over southern France before returning. Its range of 7,950 miles, will

enable the jet to connect cities like Boston and Shanghai or Los Angeles

BRITISH AIRWAYS LAUNCHES OWN GIN

British Airways has launched its own exclusive brand of gin for premium

passengers - British Airways Gin - but you will need to fly first class to

sample it, since for the time being it will only be served to the airline’s

premium customers, from the bar of the prestigious Concorde Room at

Heathrow Terminal 5.

Created by the award-winning Cambridge Distillery – the world's first

and Manchester, according to Airbus.

The highly fuel efficient A350-1000 boasts many more flier-friendly

features, including larger windows and more amenable cabin humidity

levels, and will seat between 366 and 440 passengers depending on the

configuration. Airbus anticipates that the first A350-1000 will be

delivered to launch customer, Qatar Airways, in late 2017, following a full

year of flight-testing.

self-proclaimed ‘gin tailor’ – the main botanicals used in the creation of

this special herbaceous gin (aside from juniper), were basil, rosemary

and thyme, which are all grown in the distillery's gardens. Each bottle is

labeled with the British Airways Speedmarque, and wax sealed by hand in

Cambridge to create a truly unique product. As well as making British

Airways Gin, the Cambridge Distillery also produces a bespoke blend

especially for The House of Lords, which is on sale in Parliament.


No Shoes Required

Far from the madding crowd and just an hour’s drive from the island’s built-up tourist centres,

Nicholas Chrisostomou discovers a magical, secluded destination retreat in a lush

corner of Bali, which fulfills his hospitality expectations of an Indonesian island paradise.


F

or many people who first visited twenty-five

years ago - when it attracted a handful of

Australian surfing enthusiasts and a

smattering of adventurous Europeans - Bali

is now a lost paradise. Whilst the new airport is organised

and relatively slick – I was out of the terminal with my

luggage 30-minutes after touch-down (a rarity in any Asian

holiday destination), once onto the streets it doesn't take

long to realise that parts of the island are congested, polluted

and crowded, and a lot of Bali feels nothing like the expected

Indonesian island heaven. Nowadays Ubud is little more than

a tourist trap (you'd be wise not to visit with fantasies of the

Eat, Pray, Love variety), with the number of shops selling

plastic footwear and tacky souvenirs almost outnumbering

the temples – which is saying something. There’s even a

Starbucks wedged into Ubud's main thoroughfare. Denpasar

and the surrounding area are routinely gridlocked with traffic,

making it a nightmare to get anywhere that isn't very local.

Seminyak is jammed nose-to-tail with clubs, bars, shops,

and hotels filling literally every inch – many pumping music

until the early hours, attracting a less than savoury crowd.

And best I don’t even talk about Kuta. Of course, like

anywhere, there are exceptions. Ku De Ta is still one of Bali's

best night's out, almost two decades after it opened;

Jimbaran (close to Denpasar) has the island's best swimming

bay and Bali's top beach club, Sundara – although you need

a fat wallet to drink there. But aside from the exceptions that

you must be in-the-know to enjoy, and unless you get away

from the densely populated areas of the island, on the face of

it there’s probably too little to keep a discerning holidaymaker

happy in Bali. It’s all, most certainly, present – culture,

religion, tradition, nature, history and oodles of charm – but

nowadays you really have to search Bali for an authentic

experience. According to almost everyone I’ve spoken to, the

island was a lot less commercialised and substantially more

authentic ten years before the turn of the millennium, and

most said that this is when Bali was at its best. However, I'm

pleased to inform (for your vacationing delectation), that The

Cultured Traveller discovered a corner of Bali that is still

rather magical...

Far from the heaving throngs and just a 60-minute drive

from the airport (traffic permitting), cutting through acres of

sprawling rice paddies and weaving between a number of

traditional villages, is a secret Bali retreat that’s a veritable

breath of Indonesian fresh air. An exclusive resort so tucked

away and unknown that even friends who've spent every

summer in Bali for the past fifteen years knew nothing about


ARRIVAL COURTYARD

OCEAN POOL VILLA

it until I told them. Welcome to Soori Bali, located in an

unrivaled geographical position in the island’s fertile

Tabanan regency, between a dramatic black sand beach,

towering volcanic Mount Batukaru and UNESCO-protected

rice terraces. At Soori Bali, the lucky guests who inhabit the

resort's exclusive 48 suites and villas, enjoy complete

privacy, relaxation and peace, coupled with unobtrusive

service levels worthy of royalty. This was the style of

Balinese resort I dreamed of experiencing long before I

touched down on the island.

Shortly after pulling-up at the resort's expansive, open-sided

arrivals pavilion, I fell a little silent for some time – such was

the tranquility and calmness of the space. Following a divine

massage shortly after checking-in – using a blend of sweet

almond and virgin coconut oils sourced from local villages in

East Bali – I was soon ‘in the zone’ and somewhat captivated

by my new surroundings. It was obvious within moments of

starting to look around and take stock of Soori Bali, that the

estate was designed with an awful lot of love. I say ‘estate’

because the whole place feels like one, sprawling private

residential complex. Nothing is higher than a few storeys and

all of the resort’s über-minimal buildings and

accommodations are interspersed with chic pavilions, lush

botanicals, wide pathways, dense gardens, rambling fields

and dramatic vistas of the Indian Ocean.

Owned and designed by renowned Singaporean architect,

Soo K. Chan, and his wife, Ling Fu, it's clear to anyone that a

lot of care and consideration went into planning and

executing Soori Bali. There is clever detailing literally

everywhere, much of which is so expertly crafted and

beautifully executed, that you'd be hard pressed to be

convinced that the entire resort didn't naturally emerge from

the surrounding landscape like a hospitality marvel – Soori

Bali really does sit comfortably in its setting that

spectacularly well.

Fundamental to the resort’s design ethic were cultural

sustainability and maintaining the quality of the

environment, ensuring that the natural contours of the land

were left unharmed and the local community benefited from

the hotel. All the materials used in its construction were

sourced from Bali and Java and the architecture skillfully

draws inspiration from the local landscape and its colour

palette, with the EarthCheck-certified resort crafted out of

stone from nearby village quarries, and adorned with

terracotta and other ceramic ornaments produced by local


artisans. Native indigenous materials used

included Paras Kelating (sandstone) and

Batu Kali (river stones) sourced from nearby

Kelating village, where Soori Bali provides

two elementary schools with financial aid.

The resort is also somewhat spiritual, being

dotted with temples and positioned with

respect for ancestral, ritual pathways that

run through the middle of its grounds.

Echoing this architectural reverence, a

palpable yet subliminal feeling of respect and

peace is pleasantly evident throughout Soori

Bali, and it’s hard to resist such a calming

influence. Even I was pacified by the first

evening, and trying to clear a complete

24-hours during my stay, so as not to move

from Soori Bali and be fully immersed in the

resort’s aura and delights.

My lodgings at Soori Bali were a

one-bedroom ocean pool villa, elevated

above the ground so as to maximise the

panoramic, sweeping views of the sea

directly in front, which I could see whilst

luxuriating in the private infinity pool, lazing

on the huge couch in my private pavilion,

dining al fresco, and lying on the super

king-sized bed indoors. In fact, I could see

and hear the ocean from pretty much

everywhere within the suite, further elevating

my sense of contentment. A private staircase

led down to a raised grassed terrace a few

feet above the beach, running the entire

length of the resort. Here, I sunbathed with

just birds and waves for company. At the

back of the suite was a capacious bathroom,

wardrobe and dressing arrangement,

comprising separate indoor and outdoor

shower rooms, a bathtub for two, and

generous his-and-hers sink and vanity

areas, complete with potions, lotions,

sunscreens and even lip balms tailored to

ladies and gents. All around me the devil was

in the detailing. Every day a different, exotic

fruit was delivered to my room - be it finger

bananas or Kintamani mandarins - and fresh

milk deposited in the fridge so I could make

hot beverages in peace and quiet. There’s

nothing quite like showering in the middle of

a tropical outdoor courtyard garden, under

the branches of a frangipani, with a waterfall


OCEAN POOL VILLA Dec-Jan 2016-17 The Cultured Traveller 91


MAIN POOL

cascading over you surrounded by scented

white flowers. Or walking off the edge of the

lounge area of one’s suite, directly into a

private infinity pool, and gazing at the waves

of the Indian Ocean crashing onto a volcanic

beach mere metres away. Staying at Soori

Bali I was reminded that falling asleep to the

sound of the sea, and waking up to the sight

of the sun’s rays beating down on azure

waters and frothy waves, were the best

tonics one could wish for.

One thing I especially liked about Soori Bali

was the fuss-free, personally tailored meals.

I could have a cosy dinner in the privacy of

my villa, cocktails in a rice field, a picnic in

the mountains, lunch on the beach, or room

service breakfast in my open-air pavilion –

the latter of which I relished every morning,

drinking-in as much of the ocean vistas as I

possibly could. Without exception, everything

I ate at Soori Bali was delectable, beautifully

presented, and fashioned from fresh produce

supplied by century-old farms nearby,

together with herbs and spices from the

resort's own gardens. The only time I wore

footwear was for a tasting dinner at Ombak,

the resort’s premium restaurant. A

gastronomic treat, featuring a selection of

eclectic cosmopolitan dishes incorporating a

variety of global flavours, it was well worth

putting on shoes for!

It’s rare for a five-star resort to provide so

much more than a place to relax and escape

in supreme comfort. Top-notch

accommodation and superb food are expected

at a hotel of Soori Bali’s category and

price-point. But to be able to be completely

re-energised – physically, mentally and

spiritually – by a three-night stay in one

place, makes Soori Bali a truly unique and

standout hotel. It’s the resort’s skillful design

– which instills guests with tranquility and

calmness, qualified by space, light and

structural order – that sets Soori Bali apart

from other Balinese resorts. For this we must

thank Soori’s architect and owner, Soo K.

Chan, for his astonishing vision and intricate

attention to detail.

www.sooribali.com


In the heart of Berlin, Alex Benasuli explores unique

hospitality haven, DAS STUE, which skillfully blends

contemporary luxury with artistic accents in every

creative nook and cranny

Since the city’s reunification in 1990, Berlin has transformed beyond belief. For the past few

decades, since more than a year of debate over reunited Germany's orientation ended with a

decision to move the government from Bonn to Berlin, the city has been developing a renewed

identity, balancing both a proud and troubled history with its emergence as a global center for

the arts, fashion, design and hospitality in its numerous forms. On the hotel front, most of the

large international brands are represented, and there have been some superb renovations that


SPOTLIGHT

have brought back to life Berlin’s fin de siècle past with up-to-date old world-style service.

There are also a range of more modern properties that offer luxury and all the mod cons but

want for charm and individuality. Berlin has noticeably lacked truly unique boutique hotels, that

offer a refined, luxe and hip experience, and in this regard the city’s hospitality offerings have

lagged behind its global peers. Das Stue has not only filled this gap, but also created a new

Berlin benchmark in the five-star designer boutique hotel category.


Tucked away in a leafy corner of the German capital,

bordering Berlin’s Tiergarten – the former hunting

ground of Prussian kings and now one of Europe’s

largest and most beautiful inner-city parks – Das Stue

proudly takes its place amongst the many embassies, stately

homes and period buildings that make up this exclusive

district. Occupying the imposing 1930s edifice that was

originally Berlin's Royal Danish Embassy, Das Stue’s main

building and entrance – with its circular driveway, stone

façade, oversized windows and generous proportions –

exude elegance and grandeur. When the hotel opened in

2014 after a painstaking multi-year restoration and

transformation, Das Stue reset the bar, not only in Berlin but

also throughout Europe’s most populous and economically

important nation, for deluxe design and exclusive hotel

service. More and more, refined global travellers are seeking

smaller and distinctive lodging options, which are as much

an experience as the destination itself. While some excel at

design, some at luxury and others at service, it is still rare to

find a property that executes all three as flawlessly as Das

Stue does.

First impressions genuinely matter and Das Stue doesn’t

disappoint. The hotel’s impressive modernist façade and

entrance give way to a stunning oversized foyer, with

soaring ceilings framing porous stone walls, a grey marble

floor and a double staircase hugging the perimeter of the

grand space. The beauty of Das Stue’s design aesthetic, is

that it creatively transforms the traditional and historic scale

of this elegant residence into something contemporary,

warm and quite frankly, breathtaking. In a nod to

Zoologischer Garten (Berlin Zoo), which Das Stue literally

backs on to, a giant crocodile’s head, sculpted out of wood

and mounted on a plinth, greets arriving guests. It is a

slightly provocative twist that signals an immediate

readiness to mix artistic license with convention in the


hotel’s overall design. Above, a fascinating light installation,

made up of many individual hanging orbs of different

lengths, are arranged to create a wave-like rolling effect that

beckons you to follow into the suite of lobby and concierge

spaces. Just beyond, one of the many new build extensions,

that are cleverly integrated to create a seamless flow

between the period and contemporary parts of the building,

augments the footprint of the original embassy space. Das

Stue in Danish means ‘living room’, and it is in the cavernous

lounge and bar space, continuing from the lobby and

concierge areas, that the heart and soul of the property truly

emerges. The décor of all Das Stue’s public spaces is the

brainchild of globally acclaimed Spanish architect and

designer, Patricia Urquiola. The bar and lounge are a master

class in comfortable and contemporary luxury incorporating

artistic and creative accents in every nook and cranny.

Multiple seating areas of various sizes and configurations

feature stylish, quilted B&B Italia chairs and sofas,

complimented by funky ottomans and statement stools.

Chocolate brown herringbone cube parquet floors, copper

pillars, plush drapes and subtly patterned wallpaper all add

to the scene. Vintage fashion photography – part of the

personal collection of one the owners – is hung throughout.

Lime, orange and colour accents in the rugs, cushions and

some of the upholstery add visual sparks. At the back of the

room, beyond the bar area, a wall of windows gives way to

views of the zoo’s periphery. The adjacent outdoor courtyard

uses more colour, and in the colder months, part is

transformed into a ski chalet-like smoking area. Design

details abound. Visually, Das Stue is a symphony of textures,

colour patterns and a host of shapes, regular and irregular.

The living area really comes alive at night. Flawless lighting

and ambient music complete the classic cocktail bar feel,

with nods to the 20s and 30s. A video projection of black

and white German movie classics adds a creative edge to the

staging. This area is as perfect for solo visitors as it is for a


romantic rendezvous, or a group of friends and colleagues

seeking out stylish digs in which to unwind. The vibe is sexy,

moody, cozy and relaxed, yet skillfully managed to remain

distinguished and refined. It’s no wonder that this space has

become a favourite among the movers and shakers of

Berlin’s art, fashion and new media scene, seeking a discreet

and buzzy private members club-like hub to network and let

their hair down.

Partially obscured from the living room area is The Casual,

the hotels all day dining outlet. The triangle shaped space

feels distinctively urban, with its thick geometrically

patterned carpet, spray painted corrugated metal

floor-to-ceiling wall dividers, and angled floor and

wall-mounted lighting. In many ways this restaurant

resembles an abstract expressionist work of art. During the

day, light streams in from skylights above, allowing for an

airiness that softens the strong visuals. At night, with

candles on the tables and music in the background, The

Casual feels inviting. One end of The Casual gives way to

Cinco by Paco Pérez, the hotel’s fine dining eatery. The two

can be interconnected via actual open spaces or they can

be completely closed off depending on whether a private

function is taking place in one or the other. The centerpiece

of Cinco’s eye-catching space is an incredible ceiling

installation. A myriad of different sized copper pots,

clustered together, is suspended from the ceiling in the

middle of the room, shaped like a giant ribbon. It’s both

brilliant and mesmerizing. The length of Cinco’s back wall

is an enormous window exposing the entire kitchen for

everyone to see. The relative bright light of the kitchen area

perfectly offsets the rich browns and copper that dominate

the colour scheme of the dining room. With seating for only

36 diners, eating at Cinco is intimate and personal. Das

Stue’s owners are Spanish and hence the cuisine of both

Cinco and The Casual are exclusively Iberian affairs. Paco


Pérez, a world-renowned chef focusing on 21 st century

Spanish haute cuisine, has earned five Michelin stars in his

various restaurants, including Cinco, which currently has

one. When Cinco opened it lifted the lid off of Berlin’s

high-end restaurant offerings, which tend to veer towards

the more traditional and conventional. It’s multi-course

molecular cuisine, using exotic produce and providing

unique flavour pairings and textures, was practically

unheard of in Berlin. Cinco has added a refreshing new

option to the city’s fine dining scene, and in offering a truly

creative and innovative dining experience, has helped

Berlin to catch up with its international gastronomic

metropolitan rivals.

Whilst the striking public areas of Das Stue impress and

seduce visitors to take their time and savour every moment,

the 78 guest rooms and suites are also beautiful and exude

contemporary luxury. Room layouts depend on category and

whether situated in the original building or in one of the

modern extensions. Some have more traditional proportions

and period design details, while others appear more fresh,

urban and loft-like. Standard rooms are generously

proportioned, most with floor-to-ceiling windows. Embassy

rooms have oversized bathtubs and many have small

terraces. Various suite options offer a variety of sizes and

offerings, from sitting rooms and/or work space areas, to

panoramic vistas and sprawling terraces. The hotel’s biggest

110m 2 Bel Etage suite, boasts five-metre ceilings and two

bathrooms. The generous use of natural materials, dark

wood floors, bespoke designer furniture and splashes of

colour in the soft furnishings, create an environment that

feels cozy and contemporary in all guest accommodation.

The leafy views over Berlin’s Tiergarten and the zoo provide

contemplative calm and quiet, interrupted only by the sound

of zoo animals that make their presence known from time to

time. Amidst the corridors linking rooms between the older


and newer parts of the buildings, are a scattering of open-air

libraries and alcoves in which to recline with a book amidst

even more eye-catching décor.

The relaxing undertones running throughout Das Stue are

further enhanced by the in-house spa and wellness facilities,

where only organic and wholesome beauty products are used.

Three treatment rooms offer guests a host of treatments,

ranging from traditional Chinese medicine to facials and body

treatments with a focus on anti-aging and cell regeneration.

There are also a 14-metre indoor pool and Finnish sauna,

perfect for recharging after a night on the town, or unwinding

during Berlin’s colder months. For the more active, there is a

compact yet fully equipped gym, featuring the latest

Technogym equipment. Outside Das Stue’s veritable

backyard, the bucolic Tiergarten, provides endless possibilities

amidst tree and monument-filled parkland to walk, jog and

bike. A fleet of bikes is made available for guests to explore

the hotel’s surroundings. Berlin’s iconic Brandenburg Gate

and Reichstag are but a ten-minute bike ride away. Families

travelling with children love the private entrance that links

Das Stue directly to the zoo.

Das Stue feels like an urban country house playground,

civilized and refined, yet creative and fun, with history in

spades and cutting-edge contemporary artistic expressions

everywhere. It is at once chic and elegant as well as forward

thinking and bold. As such, Das Stue is the perfect reflection

of today’s Berlin, a city on the move, not only reclaiming its

place in the world but also forging ahead in dynamic fashion.

In an ever-changing metropolis, with one foot in the past

and one even more firmly in the future, Das Stue seamlessly

encapsulates the 21 st century German capital, and deftly

showcases the city’s creative and artistic forces in a unique

hospitality gem.

www.das-stue.com



TRAVELLER

LOWDOWN

Sam Henderson explores

America’s famous Motor City, and

gives us her insider lowdown on

the iconic Michigan metropolis

back and on the up-and-up

T

he largest city in the American state of Michigan. A

once-booming centre of automobile magnets and

the luxurious mansions and exquisite Deco

skyscrapers that house them. Immortalised as the

Motor City, Detroit was once the model conglomeration of all

things ‘auto’. The city rapidly grew wealthy after Henry Ford

established the Ford Motor Company here in 1903. By 1925,

Dodge, Chrysler, Cadillac and General Motors had all moved-in

and set up production in Detroit. Following many years of plenty

in the 1920s and early 1930s, Detroit expanded to support the

boom in automobile ownership by everyday Americans. By

1950, Detroit was the 4 th largest city in America, with the

greatest number of manufacturing jobs. But what followed was

a highly publicised and much scrutinised city decline.

The 1950s saw most of the big name carmakers move their

production out of the city. By the 1970s, the oil crisis and the

diversification of the global car market gave foreign auto

manufacturers the upper hand, edging the American big three


MICHIGAN CENTRAL STATION

DETROIT PEOPLE MOVER

MOTOWN MUSEUM

– Ford, Chrysler and GM – out of the top positions. Around the

same time, riots and social unrest in Detroit resulted in the

dramatic flight of investment and confidence out of the city. This

continued for many years, and post millennium, the city suffered

a rollercoaster of urban decay and renewal, coupled with a wildly

yo-yoing credit rating. In 2011, the city had the lowest population

for a century. In July 2013, Detroit infamously filed for bankruptcy

- the largest municipal insolvency in American history.

Spend even a short time in Detroit today, and right in the

epicenter you'll see the eerie, vacant lots of the past, and

ghostly structures of deserted and crumbling houses waiting

for demolition. But in the past few years, the city has

experienced something of a renaissance and is once again

worthy of visiting. Relatively easy to explore, most of Detroit’s

attractions are located in the Downtown and Midtown areas,

or along the newly developed International Riverfront, labeled

‘international’ because Detroit River – which connects Lake

Eyrie with Lake St. Clair – is the US border with Canada.

As you explore, you’ll see magnificent, historic buildings in the

throes of restoration, and the city centre being stylishly

remodelled with new sports venues, shops and restaurants,

some literally springing up behind old exteriors. Having been

abandoned since 1988, massive century-old Michigan Central

Station – once the grand central of Detroit but more recently

used as the dilapidated backdrop for films including

Transformers and 8 Mile – is now enrobed with scaffolding

while its hundreds of blown-out windows and regal Art Deco

façade are being restored. Alongside numerous restoration

projects, newly built modern hotels, boutiques and eateries

have been linked by the Detroit People Mover - a 4.7 km

driverless monorail that circles Downtown Detroit. Disliked by

locals until recently, it has now become a popular and funky

way to get around Downtown. The monorail will whisk you to

Comerica Park for a Detroit Tigers major league baseball

game (www.tigers.mlb.com/det/ballpark/), to Fox Theatre to

watch the filming of an Anthony Bourdain show

(www.fabulousfox.com), and to the ornate Detroit Opera

House to catch a performance by celebrated Michigan Opera

Theatre company (www.michiganopera.org). A short taxi ride

will connect you with numerous visitor attractions, including

the Motown Museum, also known as 'Hitsville USA', the original

recording studios of the seminal record label and residence of


COMERICA PARK

THE HENRY FORD

GUARDIAN BUILDING

its founder, Berry Gordy (www.motownmuseum.org). It’s hard

to ignore Detroit's music legacy – the city being the

hometown of Aretha Franklin, Diana Ross and Madonna,

amongst others. For motor history buffs and ardent

petrol-heads, a visit to The Henry Ford museum complex,

spread across more than 80 acres – a little out of the city, in

the suburb of Dearborn – is not to be missed. From assembly

line to Apple, with Rosa Park's bus, Abe Lincoln's infamous

theatre chair and JFK's fateful sedan all on show, visiting

Ford’s global HQ is both a blast from the past and an

interesting flit into the future (www.thehenryford.org).

Typical of the Detroit of today, is the involvement of many

innovative chefs in new ventures to support the city’s

gastronomic rebirth. Start your day with breakfast at stylish

Hudson Café on Woodward. Here classically trained French

chef, Tom Teknos, and his partner, Stavros Adamopoulos, serve

their take on sweet and savoury waffles plus other scrummy

treats (www.hudson-cafe.com). After brekkie, take a guided

tour around Detroit’s impressive Art Deco centre, a popular

location for many Hollywood films in recent years. The

awe-inspiring Guardian Building was the set for the recent

Batman v Superman movie. Preservation Detroit offers a variety

of excellent walking tours, as well as private, tailor-made

excursions. Contact Jen Rudd for private tours

jruud@preservationdetroit.org (www.preservationdetroit.org).

If you fancy a less planned stroll, head to Detroit International

Riverfront and on to Belle Isle – a 982-acre island park, located

between the US mainland and Canada – considered to be the

city’s green crown jewel. Designed in the 1880s by renowned

landscape architect, Frederick Law Olmsted, who also designed

Central Park in NYC, Belle Isle features a variety of attractions,

including an aquarium, conservatory and the impressive James

Scott Memorial Fountain (www.belleisleconservancy.org).

If you feel like a little retail therapy, spending tourist dollars in

Detroit is relatively easy, with the city’s downtown area awash

with funky boutiques, designer stores and high street brands.

If you fancy something a little more eclectic, walk the one mile

north of downtown, to 125 year-old Eastern Market, a buzzing

place to hang out, browse and shop, with local food and

independent fashion retailers aplenty (www.easternmarket.com).

For art aficionados, an afternoon perusing the Museum of

Contemporary Art Detroit is a cultural must. Showcasing a


MOCAD

ALOFT DETROIT AT THE DAVID WHITNEY

DETROIT OPERA HOUSE

If you feel like a little retail therapy, spending tourist dollars in Detroit is

relatively easy, with the city’s downtown area awash with funky boutiques,

designer stores and high street brands

wide and frequently changing variety of modern art, MoCAD is

probably most famous for housing Diego Rivera's 27-piece

series of frescoes, Detroit Industry. If you’re looking for a quick

and healthy lunch, there’s also a fab little SuperHappySushi at

the museum’s Café 78 (www.mocadetroit.org).

Thanks to the city’s rebirth, Detroit has witnessed an influx of

foodies, talented chefs and notable culinary partnerships in the

past few years, meaning there’s no shortage of decent places

to eat excellent fare at reasonable prices. Johnny Noodle King is

as much about chef Sam Rafo and his team, as it is about their

soul warming ramens and super tasty fusion noodles

(www.johnnynoodleking.com). You can’t visit Detroit without a

Greek American chilli dog, affectionately known locally as a

'coney'. Big on flavour and best served with added chili and a

side order of cheese fries, the city’s most famous are served-up

by American Coney Island (www.americanconeyisland.com)

and Lafayette Coney Island next door (+1 313 964 8198). Hot

Taco on Park Avenue has the best soft tacos and burritos on

the block (www.hottacodetroit.com). Come cocktail hour, the

intimate Sugar House bar on Michigan Avenue serves over

100 lovingly crafted classic cocktails. I recommend ‘Aviation’

- a delectable tipple fusing gin, lime, maraschino and green

chartreuse (www.sugarhousedetroit.com). Midtown

award-winning Chartreuse Kitchen and Cocktails is a

botanically-themed American eatery and cocktail bar, also

well worth a look in (www.chartreusekc.com). For dinner,

take time out for a meal at the steam-punk decorated Rusted

Crow, a few minutes walk from Grand Circus Park where

most of the city’s best hotels are located. Run by a local

Detroit mainstay, its eats are hearty and yummy, especially

the hand-made burgers (+1 313 782 4751).


Thanks to the city’s rebirth, Detroit has witnessed an influx of foodies, talented

chefs and notable culinary partnerships in the past few years, meaning there’s

no shortage of decent places to eat excellent fare at reasonable prices

Revitalised Detroit centre has seen some excellent new hotels

open recently, so there is no shortage of quality places to rest

your head. These include all-suite Atheneum located in

Greektown, adjacent to the Detroit People Mover and

business district (www.atheneumsuites.com), and the Italian

Rennaisance-styled Westin Book Cadillac offering plush

lodgings (www.bookcadillacwestin.com). Right in the centre

of Downtown, Aloft is a hip and funky modern hotel with a

cool cocktail bar, located within the historic David Whitney

Building (www.aloftdetroit.com). For a dalliance with Detroit's

Victorian period, stay at the elegant B&B Inn, one of the city’s last

remaining original mansions (www.theinnat97winder.com).

As an urban exporter of some of the world’s most well known

pop artists, unsurprisingly Detroiters know how to get the

best out of their nightlife, which has also experienced a boost

of late. The best places to party ‘til the early hours, are urban

basement hotspot, The Grasshopper Underground

(www.thegrasshopperunderground.com), and the iconic

Centaur Bar, located at the top of the old Iodent Toothpaste

Factory (www.centaurbar.com). Both will keep you bouncing

until late.

‘A phoenix rising from the ashes’ is how most modern day

Detroiters proudly describe their city. Desperate to preserve

some of the glorious, glamorous past and fuse it with their

modern urban future, locals are heartily welcoming visitors to

Detroit again. They quirkily ask tourists to ‘forgive the

renovations’ and enjoy the rejuvenating experience you’ll

have when you visit their spirited city, and I can tell you from

first hand experience, that a visit to Detroit is both refreshing

and highly enjoyable.


TA

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REVIEWS

DOHA’S BEST

RESTAURANTS

DEDICATED FOODIE DAWN GIBSON

ROUNDS UP THE FINEST EATERIES IN

DOHA, ONE OF THE WEALTHIEST CITIES

IN THE WORLD AND HOST OF THE

2022 FIFA WORLD CUP

When you think of capital cities known for their cuisine, Doha does not readily spring to mind. Yet, there is no doubt

that the Qatari metropolis has a foodie soul. The combination of a large expatriate population from around the globe,

and the sophisticated tastes of well-travelled locals, has resulted in a community so devoted to dining out, that it

might as well be named a national pastime. Doha’s thousands of restaurants range from pokey holes in the wall

serving some of the best (and cheapest) Indian fare that you may ever have tasted, to fine dining establishments

founded by some of the world’s best-known chefs, including Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Gordon Ramsay and Alain Ducasse.

To provide our readers with a literary amuse bouche, The Cultured Traveller has selected eight of Doha’s best

restaurants to feature in this special gastronomic spotlight on the wealthy Qatari capital. It was truly tough to narrow

the field down to such a small number, but those that made the list were chosen on the basis of representing top

quality, presentation and service in their particular niche. If you’re craving a succulent steak, a hearty modern Italian

feast, an indulgence of seafood or a flavoursome Latin celebration, it’s all here. Likewise, if you want to see some of

Doha’s chicest spots or canoodle over a romantic dinner for two, there’s something for you too.


No culinary exploration of Doha would be complete without an evening trip to the city’s main traditional market,

Souq Waqif. While the food quality and service in the souq can be a little haphazard, there are dozens of cafés and

restaurants to choose from and there’s no better place in the city to people-watch. Just before the sun sets, settle

yourself at a table on the main thoroughfare with a freshly made lemon and mint drink, then order some local

dishes. Most popular and ever-present is machbous (popular in many Gulf countries), which is a richly spiced

mélange of Eastern spices, basmati rice, pine nuts and raisins, often topped with a chunk of chicken, mutton, or

locally caught hammour. Also very popular in the Qatari capital, are balaleet (noodles cooked with sugar, cinnamon,

saffron and cardamom), and Umm Ali, a sweet, milky bread-type pudding.

Finally, a quick word about alcoholic beverages: Major hotels in Doha – and restaurants either inside or within a

hotel complex – are permitted to serve alcohol. But stand-alone restaurants cannot serve alcohol. All eateries

featured in this roundup of Doha’s Best Restaurants are fully licensed, with the exception of IDAM.

Dawn Gibson


TA

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& SIP

REVIEW

HAKKASAN DOHA

Food

Atmosphere

Hakkasan started life as a swish Chinese restaurant in

Hanway Place in London, launched by Wagamama

founder Alan Yau in 2001. The brand has come a long

way in the past fifteen years. Today Hakkasan is truly global,

encompassing restaurants, clubs and venues across North

America, Asia, India and the Middle East.

Since opening in Qatar four years ago, Hakkasan has

become one of the most talked about restaurants in Doha – a

place to see and be seen. The décor is stylish and chic and

the crowd is a mix of corporate types, well-dressed couples

and glamorous girls about town. Hakkasan Doha is a regular

winner of gastronomic accolades, having landed Time Out

Doha’s most prestigious award, Restaurant of the Year, for

the past two consecutive years.

Hakkasan’s Qatar outpost is situated amongst the manicured

gardens of the opulent five-star St. Regis Doha, a short

distance from the main hotel, which gives it a more

stand-alone feel than many other top restaurants in the city,

accentuated by a private driveway and entrance.

On the Sunday evening of my visit, the restaurant was about

half full, and the first thing I noticed was the achingly

fashionable interior, designed by iconic French designer,

Christian Liaigre. Dark wood tables and inviting armchairs sit

partially hidden behind Chinese lattice screens. Gold lighting


accents create a warm glow, and the whisper of low

conversation ebbs and flows from shadowed nooks and

crannies. It’s the kind of place where a risqué romantic

rendezvous might take place across from a multi-million-dollar

international business deal at the same time.

A long, backlit blue onyx bar – running along the right

flank of the restaurant – beckoned us to take a pew. We gave

into temptation without hesitation, kicking off the evening

with an exclusive-to-West Bay signature Tupi Pale cocktail,

made with Tanqueray No. 10 gin and peach liqueur, given a

fruity shake-up with pineapple, lime and peach bitters. It was

strong, simply served and delicious. Removing ourselves

slightly reluctantly from the bar, we walked through the dimly

lit restaurant towards the relaxed terrace, to take advantage

of the balmy Qatar evening.

Each Hakkasan around the world prides itself on offering

unique local dishes and inventive drinks, and Qatar is no

exception. Doha’s head chef, Lai Min Wei, has been

experimenting with traditional Chinese cuisine since he was

a teenager, and worked for Hakkasan in London and Dubai

before heading to Qatar.

To start we selected a variety of small dishes. The Hakka

steamed dim sum platter was a taste of Asian culinary

heaven, comprising piping-hot mouthfuls of scallop shumai,

smoked Wagyu beef and seabass shumai. We also polished

off a Cantonese classic with a twist - prawn toast with truffle

- crunchy and golden, exactly as it should be. Also standout

was the crispy duck salad with pomelo, pine nuts and

shallots, a worldwide Hakkasan signature dish.

Our main course selection included grilled Chilean sea

bass with Chinese honey, which tasted as exquisite as it

looked, the delicate fish beautifully balanced by the sweet

glaze. It’s rightly considered one of Hakkasan’s star turns,

comparable to Nobu’s famous miso-marinated black cod.

The stir-fried Wagyu beef with honey jasmine sauce was

wonderfully tender, whilst the Hakka hand-pulled noodles

with shimeji mushroom and Chinese chives were tasty

enough to tempt even the most fervent low-carb dieter.

Service throughout dinner was pleasant and responsive

whilst still relatively low key, in a part of the world where

overly obsequious waiting staff can sometimes get on your

nerves, after a while. All of the courses arrived in a timely

fashion and our servers had a good knowledge of the menu.

By the time the main course was cleared, it has to be said

that we were fairly full, but felt that it would have been a

culinary crime to leave without tasting the much lauded

chocolate orange dessert, a beautifully presented globe of

gold leaf dusted chocolate, concealing a delicate blood

orange sorbet. Sharing one between the two of us, the divine

chocolate and orange combination rounded-off the meal in a

somewhat theatrical fashion.

Executive chef: Lai Min Wei

Address: The St. Regis Doha, West Bay, Doha, Qatar

Telephone: +974 4446 0170

Email: reservation.hakkasan@stregis.com

Website: www.hakkasan.com/locations/hakkasan-doha

Cuisine: Modern Cantonese

Opening hours: Sun - Thu 19:00 - 00:00

Fri 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 00:00

Sat 13:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 00:00

Suggested lunch: Spicy prawn (QR140), vegetable fried rice (QR58).

Suggested dinner: Crispy duck salad (QR175), Assam seafood claypot

with okra and coconut (QR168), grilled Wagyu beef

with lemon soya sauce (QR250), steamed Jasmine

rice (QR40), lemon and sesame tart (QR55).

Perfect dinner: Hakka steamed dim sum platter (QR98), grilled

Chilean seabass with Chinese honey (QR255),

Peking duck (QR900), Hakka hand-pulled noodles

(QR78), chocolate and olive oil delice (QR55).

Reservations: Essential

Wheelchair access: Yes

Children: Welcome. No high chairs. No kids menu

Credit Cards: All major

Parking: Valet complimentary

Reviewed by Dawn Gibson for dinner on 27 March 2016

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about

the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.


TA

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REVIEW

NEW YORK

STEAKHOUSE

Food

Atmosphere

There is no shortage of high-end steakhouses in Doha,

a testimony to the huge appetite in Qatar for the best

quality prime beef amongst both local and expatriate

diners. New York Steakhouse stands out from the pack for a

number of reasons. Its’ classic old-fashioned ambience,

reminiscent of a gentlemen’s club without the stuffy

atmosphere. And the theatricality of the food presentation.

Expect to be entertained as well as wined and dined, from the

time you sit down on one of the blissfully snug red and black

leather armchairs, to the time you reluctantly toddle out. Of

course, the steaks are known to be consistently good,

otherwise there would really be no point!

We arrived on a weekday evening and were graciously led to

our table by server Lloyd, who was friendly and highly

knowledgeable about the menu. Dinner begun with a

refreshing glass of prosecco, and, by way of an amuse

bouche, a neat square of steak surrounded by caviar and

carrot puree, served precisely on a large porcelain spoon. But

things really started to get interesting when the appetizers

were brought to the table. German-born executive chef,

David Dahlhaus, who has been working internationally for

several years, including in Dubai, is committed to ensuring

his guests have a truly memorable foodie experience, and it

really showed.

The king prawn cocktail was a playful twist on an old classic

– deconstructed and served on a square block of pink ice,

studded with red berries and topped with butterflied prawns.

However, it soon became obvious that the beef tartare was

the starter to order. Lloyd prepared it table-side, mixing

minced raw Black Angus beef with mustard, parsley, capers,

shallots and tarragon, before gently smoking the mixture

using bourbon barrel wood chips and a glass bowl. By the

time he was finished (other diners were craning their necks,

wondering what we had ordered), the end result was a

well-composed and deliciously tasty round of tartare with a

mild heat and herby after-taste.

The show continued when Lloyd wheeled around a display of

the raw cuts from which to choose our main courses. These

included Wagyu, prime beef and Black Angus from the US,

Australia and Argentina, alongside a giant one kilogram

‘tomahawk’ behemoth for two or more (there’s was a two

kilogram piece for the truly carnivorous). Lloyd explained the

marbling of fat in each cut and suggested which he

considered we would best enjoy based on our tastes. There

was also a choice of steak knives, from the dainty and slightly

decorative French, to Samurai-style blades.

I selected a Wagyu fillet mignon, medium, with a red wine

sauce and sides of asparagus and carrots. My dining partner


also plumped for a Wagyu cooked medium for its tasty highly

marbled meat, but a larger rib-eye with a mushroom sauce,

served with a baked potato and sautéed mushrooms. The

steaks, especially the fillet, were as melt in the mouth as one

could have wished – juicy, butter-soft and flavoursome. The

red wine sauce was a particularly good choice, and the perfect

accompaniment to the mushrooms as well as the meat. My

only quibble what that the sauces and sides are all charged

extra and separately – including one complimentary sauce

with each steak surely would not have been too onerous!

At the outset we had accepted Lloyd’s suggested wine

pairings, and once the food and vinos were served together,

we were glad. The wines were all from the Americas: a crisp

Californian chardonnay with the prawn cocktail, an

Argentinian Malbec to complement the tartare and a robust,

fruity Washington Syrah, the best pick, with the main course

steaks.

We ended the meal with a somewhat indulgent although

rather scrumptious Baked Alaska - a nougat and

meringue-based ball of sweetness – plus a slice of lemon

tart with thyme marshmallow and yoghurt sorbet. The

desserts were a fittingly impressive conclusion to a dinner

that had been as exquisitely presented as it had been

satisfying. However, it’s the showmanship of the waiting staff

that makes New York Steakhouse a memorable place for a

night out.

Executive chef: David Dahlhaus

Address: Marriott Marquis City Center Doha Hotel, Omar Al

Mukhtar Street, West Bay, Doha, Qatar

Telephone: +974 4419 5000

Email: mhrs.dohmq.Restaurant.Reservation@marriotthotels.com

Website: www.marriottmarquisdohadining.com

Cuisine: American steakhouse

Opening hours: Lunch Sun - Thu 12:00 - 15:00

Dinner 7 nights 18:30 - 23:30

Suggested lunch: 3-course set (QR95)

Suggested dinner: New England seafood chowder (QR55), fillet

tasting trio (QR275), lemon tart (QR45).

Perfect dinner: Beef tartare (QR95), mixed grill (QR275),

Philadelphia cheesecake (QR45)

Reservations: Required


Children: High chairs yes. Kids menu yes.

Credit cards: All major

Parking: Free valet


Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback

about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining

room.


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MARKET BY

JEAN-GEORGES

Food

Atmosphere


In a city where there sometimes seems to be a new

restaurant launched every week, it is comforting to be

able to fall back on old, trusted favourites. Market by

Jean-Georges is one such eatery for much of Doha’s

business community – not least because it is conveniently

located in the heart of the city’s business district, West Bay,

at the funky W Doha Hotel & Residences. Market is chic

without being overly fussy, and is known citywide for the

swift service and consistently good quality cuisine. It

wasn’t much of a surprise then, when the restaurant – part

of the global empire of renowned Alsatian chef,

Jean-Georges Vongerichten – took home the gongs for Best

Business Lunch and Best European at the 2016 Time Out

Doha restaurant awards.

We arrived just after noon on a Sunday – the Arab world’s

Monday – and the restaurant was already three quarters

full. The reason is Market’s purse-friendly QR98 express

lunch menu, which offers a generous choice of six

appetizers, mains and desserts, including a number of the

restaurant’s signature dishes. You can order, eat and settle

your bill within 40 minutes if you wish. While there is also a

reasonable selection of wines by the glass, we were

behaving ourselves that day, and ordered peach

pomegranate mojito mocktails, a refreshing if sugary

choice.

Turning to the appetizer menu, I couldn’t decide between

the tomato soup with cheddar and croutons, or a steamed

shrimp salad, and eventually settled on the seafood.

Meanwhile my friend ordered the salmon tartar with garlic

toast. Both were a bit of a let-down, to be honest. The

salad was huge, but even chunks of lovely creamy avocado

and feisty Champagne vinaigrette were not enough to

disguise the fact that it was mostly a mountain of greens

with a stingy amount of shrimp around the edges. My

friend was equally unimpressed with her bland salmon

tartar, and I wish we had both plumped for the tomato soup

instead.

Thankfully, the next course restored our faith. I enjoyed a

beautifully slow-cooked piece of salmon, topped with

potato mash and sliced Brussels sprouts inside a ring of

black truffle emulsion. The flavours combined perfectly,

and I wondered why I had never thought of slicing sprouts

before. My friend tucked into parmesan-crusted chicken –

which I had eaten on a previous visit, since it proves to be a

consistent winner – served with basil-lemon butter and

asparagus. An aside: the vegetables served with the

express lunch mains are little more than a garnish, so I

suggest ordering at least one side between two people. We

also shared an irresistibly tasty black truffle pizza, but

resisted the urge to finish every piece with thoughts of the

desserts to come. This proved to be a wise move,

particularly for my friend, who ordered the restaurant’s

famed salted caramel sundae. The dish was served in a

cereal bowl, and included a generous serving of caramel

ice cream surrounded by a riot of peanuts, popcorn and

chocolate fudge sauce. My choice – warm chocolate cake

with vanilla ice cream – was dainty by comparison but

equally yummy. As part of the express lunch menu, Market

also offers a bag of homemade cookies-to-go, for those

with a sweet tooth who are in a hurry to leave after their

mains.

Whilst we hadn’t been keeping a close eye on the time

(Market is a very social and intensely chatty restaurant!),

the service was prompt and courteous throughout and the

waiters attentive without making us feel uncomfortable.

Overall, the lunch experience was reliable, efficient and

excellent value for money. The emphasis on high quality

dishes served promptly is clearly a successful (dare I say

it?) marketing ploy, equally popular with executives in a

hurry and ladies who lunch.

We lingered a little longer over coffee, before leaving

through the hotel’s über-fashionable and happening lobby,

stomachs contentedly full and wallets mercilessly

unscathed.

Executive chef: Chamil Balasuriya

Address: W Doha Hotel & Residences, West Bay, Doha, Qatar

Telephone: +974 4453 5373

Email: bnfreservations.wdoha@whotels.com

Website: www.marketdoha.com

Cuisine: International

Opening hours: Sat - Thu 12:00 - 16:00, 17:00 - 23:30

Fri 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:30

Suggested lunch: Express set lunch (QAR98)

Suggested dinner: Steamed shrimp salad (QAR75),

slow-cooked salmon (QR125), salted

caramel ice cream sundae (QAR45)

Perfect dinner: Fresh burrata (QAR90), grilled prime sirloin

(QR170), warm chocolate cake (QAR45)



Children: High chairs yes. Kids menu yes


Parking: Free valet

Reviewed by Dawn Gibson for lunch on 20 March 2016

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s

feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in

the dining room.


In a city where slick concept restaurants regularly debut in

swanky 5-star hotels, offering different gastronomic

journeys, it's not always easy for a newcomer to make its

mark in Doha and attract a decent crowd. But then again,

Mexican-born Denver-based celebrity chef Richard Sandoval

is no stranger to opening restaurants in the Gulf region. A

global pioneer in contemporary Latin cuisine, Sandoval is

internationally acclaimed for his innovative combination of

Latin ingredients and modern culinary techniques to create

thrilling and sophisticated flavours. Since opening his first

Mexican restaurant almost twenty years ago in New York City,

Sandoval has employed his classically trained and modern

approach to traditional Mexican food, to grow his empire

across the States and Mexico and into the Middle East, and

now helms more than 45 restaurants globally. But he doesn’t

stop there, also offering his take on coastal Mexican cuisine,

Latin/Asian-fused small plates and most recently a pan-Latin

interpretation of a contemporary steakhouse, which is

where Toro Toro comes in.

Doha is Sandoval’s second Toro Toro outlet in the Gulf, located

within Marsa Malaz Kempinski hotel complex. Whilst two

giant bulls greet you at the entrance, once inside Toro Toro

Doha the dramatics are very much grown-up. The sultry

interior features accents of burnt orange, dark charcoal walls,

plenty of wooden textured finishes and leather furniture

throughout. This is not a small restaurant - the ground floor

dining room seats more than 150, whilst just under 200 can

be comfortably accommodated upstairs - yet the skillful

interior design aesthetic makes the place feel warm and

inviting, a touch understatedly glamorous even. It doesn’t take

long for us to be seated and get comfy. I love the no-nonsense

approach to South American eating. There’s little, if any,

faffing around. The first round of drinks was delivered within

minutes and then the serious business began with gusto.

The concept of Toro Toro is all about sharing dishes, its menu

dominated by small meat plates, grilled octopus, ceviche and

the like. We opted for five-courses, comprising cold starters, a

round of suviche rolls, hot appetizers, a meaty main course

and finally desserts.

Of the four cold appetizers we shared, the Ceviche

Huachinango was standout. Made with sea bass, it was

deliciously fresh and bursting with flavours. The smoked duck

breast Tiradito was also superb.

A signature experience at Toro Toro is “suviche” (sushi and

ceviche) which combines Asian and Latin influences and

flavours. Served from a dedicated suviche bar, our scrummy

beef rolls were a delicious course in their own right.

Conscious that the main course was still to come, we took

it easy with the hot appetizers, sampling everything but

trying to leave space. Nevertheless, the marinated beef

tenderloin skewers (anticucho) and crispy prawns in Japanese

breadcrumbs were impossible to resist, the latter served


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TORO TORO DOHA

Food

Atmosphere

with a divine, sweet sauce.

For me the grilled octopus was the star of the three main

courses. Succulent and smoky, despite being very full already

I almost demolished the entire plate. The beef fillet (Palomilla

de Res) was accompanied by a robust and tasty cognac black

pepper sauce, whilst the moist lamb Shank was perfectly

cooked and easy to eat as it came off the bone.

Desserts were a Peruvian combination of dulce de leche

and meringue (Suspiro Limeño), the restaurant’s trademark

Tres Leches, and Mexican brownie. All three were delicious

and moreish – the tres leches cake oozing an incomparable

feeling of comfort. After one sweet mouthful of each I simply

couldn’t accommodate any more food.

Service throughout was friendly and efficient yet not

overwhelming. Assistant manager, Beatriz Welter, was warm,

helpful and informative without being gushy or in your face.

The handcrafted cocktails we sipped upstairs after dinner

were delectable and generous. The entire experience could

not be faulted from start to finish, the food being the shining

star of the show.

Praised worldwide by the industry, media, peers and patrons

alike, for elevating Latin American dining in each market he

has a presence, Richard Sandoval has once again created an

outstanding restaurant in Toro Toro Doha, which is positively,

upstairs and down, and offers a unique culinary experience in

the Qatari capital.

Chef de cuisine: Bojan Petrovic

Address: Marsa Malaz Kempinski, The Pearl - Doha, Costa Malaz Bay,

Doha, Qatar

Telephone: +974 4446 0170

Email: torotoro@torotorodoha.com

Website: www.torotorodoha.com

Cuisine: Latin American

Opening hours: Sat - Wed 19:00 - 01:00

Thu 19:00 - 02:00

Fri 12:30 - 16:00, 19:00 - 02:0

Suggested dinner: Ceviche Huachinango (QR85), beef fillet

anticucho (QR90), crispy prawns (QR90),

(QR250), pulpo al olivo (QR80), 650g churrasco

skewer - serves 2 (QR450), steamed asparagus

(QR60), potato puree (QR50), Tres Leches (QR50).

Perfect dinner: Ceviche Huachinango (QR 85), beef fillet

anticucho (QR90), crispy prawns (QR90), pulpo

al olivo (QR80), rodízio-style main course - free

flow of meat and sides (QR440 per person),

Suspiro Limeño (QR50), Tres Leches (QR50).

Reservations: Essential at weekends


Children: Welcome. High chairs yes. No kids menu

Credit Cards: All major


Reviewed by Nicholas Chrisostomou for dinner on 30 March 2016


about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.


If you’re going to visit just one fine dining restaurant in

Doha, make it IDAM. Yes, it’s a bold statement to make at

the start of a review, but there is good reason for it. While

many restaurants claim to provide a unique experience, this is

the adventure in ‘haute cuisine’ you will be telling your friends

about, from the mezze decorated with edible gold leaf, to

how you bravely tried the signature slow-cooked camel.

The first Middle Eastern venture by the multiple

Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse, whose restaurants include

his flagship Le Louis XV at the Hôtel de Paris Monte Carlo and

a namesake eatery at London’s Dorchester, among many

others, it is unsurprising that IDAM regularly features on VIP

itineraries. Michelle Obama held a private dinner here, while

Mary, the Crown Princess of Denmark, was reportedly much

taken by the incredible décor.

Housed at the top of Qatar’s iconic Museum of Islamic Art,

IDAM boasts one of the best views across the water towards

Doha’s futuristic West Bay skyline. The interior is just as

impressive, a minimalist masterpiece in monochrome, by

renowned designer Philippe Starck. While it is hard to shake

the ‘night at the museum’ feel entirely, Starck has artfully

closed in the dining area with circular installations suspended

from the high ceiling to give it less of an institutional feel.

Every small detail has been carefully considered, from the

Arabic calligraphy on the thick carpet, to the exquisitely

beautiful, heavy crystal goblets. However, there is one

significant downside to the stunning setting - you cannot

drink alcohol in a museum dedicated to Islamic art. That said,

it would be a huge shame to miss out on IDAM for the sake of

a few glasses of wine, especially as you could always go for a

nightcap at a nearby licensed hotel afterwards.

In order to sample as wide a selection as possible from the

kitchen of executive chef Frederic Larquemin, we opted for

the Experience menu. If you plan to visit IDAM for dinner and

also order the tasting menu, I strongly suggest that you have

a tiny salad for lunch, or perhaps just a glass of water.

Once we were comfortably seated at our table – admiring the

calligraphy on the thick white-on-white bespoke tablecloths –

and had been given a brief synopsis of the menu concept, the

bread trolley was duly wheeled out. And what a bread trolley it

was. There were enough varieties on display to stock a village

bakers' shop – large crusty baguettes, wholemeal buns, bread

tinted yellow with pricey saffron, a fluffy cottage loaf, bread

flavoured with za'atar (a blend of herbs, including oregano and

basil thyme, popular throughout the Arab world), and many

more, all as fresh as could be, and utterly scrumptious. We

prevented ourselves from sampling one of each type by thoughts

of the next course, which proved to be even more bounteous...

plate after plate of beautifully presented mezze, which literally

filled the large table. There was creamy broad bean soup,

goujonnettes made from locally-sourced hammour fish, truffled

chicken pâté, a floral salad, and on and on. Our favourite was


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IDAM

Food

Atmosphere

IDAM’s take on the traditional Moroccan dish, harira, which

tasted like a nutty chickpea and lentil porridge, and was draped

with genuine gold foil for a touch of pure decadence. For

mains, we could not pass-up the restaurant’s signature camel

with duck foie gras, black truffle and souffléed potatoes, which

takes days to prepare. The meat was melt-in-the-mouth

tender and tasted a bit like venison, with a sharper, earthier

hint courtesy of the truffle. Our second main – free-range

chicken – was succulent and lightly seasoned, served with

zesty lemon quinoa, but simply no match for the camel. There

were paired drinks, if not stiff ones. We were greeted with

elegant flutes of rosé Champagne – non-alcoholic, but delicious

none-the-less – and then plied with exotic mocktails, including

a pomegranate drink infused with hibiscus and lavender,

presented in its own little mini ice chamber for extra wow factor.

As you might have guessed already, the desserts were every

bit as extravagant as the rest: a selection of rich chocolate

concoctions, macaroons, biscuits, jellies and fresh mango

materialized on the table, but by this stage we were

struggling to fit in another bite.

It was time to leave this contemporary palace of gastronomic

delights and return to the real world. Gliding silently down in

the restaurant’s elegant lift, accompanied by a hostess

through the silent museum to the waiting Doha night, felt a

little like Alice in Wonderland returning from her culinary

adventures. There was definitely a sprinkle of magic in the air

at IDAM, and more than a little found its way into the cuisine.

A final note: yes, IDAM is unsurprisingly one of the priciest

restaurants in Doha. For a wallet-friendly option, try the lunch

set menu, which is excellent value for a Michelin-starred

experience. However, if it’s a special occasion or you want to

impress, the dinner Experience menu is highly recommended.

Executive Chef: Frederic Larquemin

Address: Museum of Islamic Art, 5th floor. Doha, Qatar

Telephone: +974 44 22 44 88

Email: idam@qm.org.qa

Website: www.alain-ducasse.com/en/restaurant/idam

Cuisine: French Mediterranean

Opening hours: Wed – Sun 12:30 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:00

Suggested lunch: 3-course set (QR200)

Suggested dinner: Mezze selection (QR300); tender camel, duck foie

gras, black truffle, souffléed potatoes (QR390);

IDAM chocolate (QR80)

Perfect dinner: 7-course Experience Menu (QR785)



Children: High chairs available



Reviewed by Dawn Gibson for dinner on 6 April 2016




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ISAAN

Food

Atmosphere

Mention Thai cuisine and most of us envisage the

ubiquitous green chicken curry, fried noodles and

spicy soups. While these feature on the menu at

Isaan – the signature restaurant of the sprawling 27-acre

beachfront Grand Hyatt Doha resort, in West Bay Lagoon – it

is the flavoursome dishes of the region in north-east

Thailand, for which the restaurant is named, which give this

luxe eatery its distinctive edge.

Typical fare from Isaan – an area which borders Laos and

Cambodia – includes sweet spicy salads, eaten with grilled

meats, fish and sticky rice. The food is simply prepared but

bursting with a complex array of flavours, from chilli to lime,

fresh fruit to dried shrimp, and coriander to lemongrass. So

we were looking forward to experiencing a whirlwind of taste

when we booked to dine at Isaan on a weekend night.

On entering the restaurant, the first thing one notices is that,

despite being situated just off Grand Hyatt Doha’s main

lobby, Isaan doesn’t have the same-same atmosphere of

many hotel restaurants. It looks and feels like a stand-alone

establishment. Three open live kitchens ensure guests in the

large, airy dining space can keep an eye on what the chefs

are up to, and there’s a large wraparound terrace to take

advantage of balmy Qatar nights.

Isaan has a reputation for consistently good service, and this

is evident throughout our visit, under the watchful eye of

friendly manager, Adisak Onjan, who greeted us at the table

and shared his personal recommendations as we sipped on

refreshing Thai whisky ginger chilli cocktails.

In keeping with Thai custom, dishes are designed to be

shared, and are generally served in small portions so that

diners can enjoy a variety of tastes during one meal.

If you have never dined at Isaan before, one of the

five-course set menus is recommended. These feature a

selection of salads, including the signature Som Tam (spicy

green papaya, tomato and peanut), soups, fried appetizers,

grilled meats, stir-fries, curries and desserts. Since we had

dined at Isaan previously, we ordered à la carte.

We started with Guay Tiew Ped Toon – a braised duck and

noodle soup – and Tom Kha Gai – an exceptionally sweet and

creamy concoction of chicken, lemongrass, galangal and

coconut. We follow this with fried fish cakes and sweet chilli

sauce, palatable but a little bland and easily overshadowed

by the next dish, Yum Nuea Yang, a spicy traditional salad of

beef slivers, lime juice and oyster mushrooms. The deliciously

tangy salad was skillfully balanced and one of the highlights

of the meal.

Another standout dish was the manager’s recommendation

of grilled whole sea bass. Presented on a bed of pandan


leaves and topped with crunchy golden-fried onions, the

delectably succulent fish was served with a selection of four

sauces – two chilli-based, plus a tamarind and mild ginger.

The crisp, slightly fruity nose of the Louis Eschenauer

Sauvignon Blanc we chose to accompany the meal was

perfect for the fish.

We also nibbled on a flavoursome roast duck and

pineapple red curry (Kaeng Ped Ped Yang), and grilled tiger

prawns with tamarind sauce (Goong Yang), before sharing a

classic Thai dessert of egg custard and sticky rice.

It’s easy to see why Isaan is such an established favourite

on the Doha restaurant scene, since it was launched by then

chef de cuisine, Wachira Chaipinidnorrachart, eight years

ago. Chef Chaipinidnorrachart’s commitment to authenticity

– for example, the restaurant steams and serves sticky rice in

a bamboo basket, the way it is done in Thailand – has been

carried on under his successor, Somporn Sintawee, and it

shows.

There’s a variety of budget southeast Asian restaurants in

Doha, serving tasty, reliable food, albeit in lack lustre settings,

but fine for a quick stop after a long day. However, if you are

hankering for perfectly presented, authentic cuisine in relaxed

yet luxurious surroundings, no Thai in the bustling Qatari

capital compares to multi award-winning Isaan.

Executive chef: Jean-Christophe Fieschi

Chef de cuisine: Somporn Sintawee

Address: Grand Hyatt Doha, West Bay Lagoon, Doha, Qatar

Telephone: +974 4448 1250

Email: dohgh-isaan.restaurant@hyatt.com

Website: www.doha.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/Isaan

Cuisine: Thai

Opening hours: Sat – Thu 19:00 – 23:30

Fri 12:30 - 15:30, 19:00 – 23:30

Suggested brunch: QR399 with wine & spirits

Suggested dinner: Shrimp cakes (QR60), deep fried sea bass

(QR40), Stir-fried shrimp, squid, black mussels

& scallops (QR65), chicken in panang curry

(QR41), coconut ice cream (QR30)

Perfect dinner: Spicy green papaya salad (QR35), grilled

boneless whole sea bass (QR 140), sticky rice,

mango & coconut cream (QR35)



Children: High chairs yes. Kids menu yes


Parking: Free or chargeable valet





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PORCINI

Food

Atmosphere

As is the case in most world cities, there’s no

shortage of Italian restaurants in Doha. You can dine

at trendy La Spiga at the W, nibbling on pasta as

Hollywood legends gaze down at you from the walls, or brave

the attention of the enthusiastic singing waiters at The Italian

Job across town at Radisson Blu. What sets Porcini apart, is

the highly innovative chef de cuisine, Moreno Gianfranco

Miotto, whose understanding of traditional Italian cuisine is

matched only by his fervent passion for reinventing old

favourites with his own contemporary twist. Born in Veneto in

northeastern Italy, chef Miotto made his mark as the owner of

several award-winning restaurants in Canada, before his

arrival in Qatar, bringing signature dishes such as his

handmade lobster ravioli with him.

We had not been at Porcini for longer than five minutes

before Chef Miotto appeared to greet us. Genial and chatty,

without being over the top, he easily persuaded us to opt for

his five-course tasting menu so that we could sample some

of his finest recipes.

The dining room was comfortable if a tad old-fashioned (we

were informed that a refurbishment was imminent),

decorated in a palette of deep red, gold and brown, with cut

glass chandeliers and heavy wooden furniture.

A waiter delivered a selection of breads to the table and

we were spoiled for choice by a sweet focaccia, crispy grissini

and a light, grainy walnut bread, served with capsicum dip, a

creamy pine nut hummus, and an olive and sundried tomato

tapenade. We avoided eating much, knowing we had so

many courses to come!

The starters were an fitting introduction to the tasting menu,

so beautifully prepared that we were almost frightened to

mar such works of art with anything as brutal as a fork. I was

presented with the crudo di gamberetti, a neat row of shrimp

tails delicately flavoured with orange rosemary foam. My

companion’s starter was carpaccio circles, precisely arranged

and topped with a tomato bread salad. The procession of

dishes that followed was all just as beautifully presented.

Two of chef Miotto’s signature dishes stood out: Lobster

ravioli, in which the seafood tang was just right and not

overpowered by the tomato basil sauce; and the restaurant’s

namesake porcini mushrooms in a creamy white wine sauce,

served on a bed of polenta.


For main course, I was served a well-seasoned beef

tenderloin filet, a generous piece cooked to perfection. My

companion tucked-into a lamb rack with fennel ragout and

truffle jus, which, while also expertly cooked, was a little too

salty for his taste.

Our only other criticism regarded the wine. After tasting

several, we selected a Tini Sangiovese, a medium-bodied

fruity red, which while quaffable was a little bland. We would

have done with better advice on the wine front, and perhaps

sipped an older vintage. However, by dessert, we had quite

forgotten about the red. Porcini outshone itself presentation

wise yet again, with a decadently rich citrus-laced chocolate

mousse, encased in a globe of silky milk coverture, decorated

with crunchy chocolate pieces and kumquat sorbet. It was a

suitably impressive end to a glorious meal – the kind of

experience one wished was accompanied by a plump sofa

nearby to collapse onto in post-gastronomic bliss.

Décor aside, this is new Italian as it should be. Porcini skilfully

manages to infuse sentimental old favourites with fresh

flavours and innovative ideas, ensuring diners are pleasantly

surprised by each bite. Just as language never stays the

same, good cuisine is always a work in progress, albeit one

that draws on centuries of tradition.

Chef de cuisine: Moreno Gianfranco Miotto

Address: The Ritz-Carlton, Doha, Lower Lobby, West Bay Lagoon

Doha, Qatar

Telephone: +974 4484 8000

Email: rc.dohrz.leads@ritzcarlton.com

Website: www.ritzcarlton.com

Cuisine: Italian

Opening hours: Every night 18:30 - 23:00

Suggested dinner: Carpaccio di Manzo con manzanella (QR75),

Branzino Portofino (QR185), Cannoli (QR55).

Perfect dinner: Chef's kitchen counter blind tasting menu

(QR250/person)

Reservations: Recommended


Children: High chairs yes. Kids menu on request

Credit cards: All major except Diners

Parking: Free valet

Reviewed by Dawn Gibson for dinner on 4 April 2016




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NOBU DOHA

Food

Atmosphere

When Robert De Niro and star chef Nobu Matsuhisa

launched their Doha restaurant last year, Qatar’s

glitterati were naturally champing at the bit. It was

one of the most anticipated opening parties for years, in a city

where eating out is the new black. The opportunity to rub

shoulders with a legendary Hollywood star, while nibbling on

the world-famous contemporary Japanese cuisine popular

with celebrities from Mayfair to Malibu, Miami to Milan?

Everyone who was anyone was there, darling. When we

visited Nobu’s Doha outpost, there was still a sprinkling of

star dust in the air. American lifestyle goddess Martha

Stewart was holding court on a nearby table, drinking a sake

cocktail. We tried our best not to look over in her direction too

often lest we were mistaken for stalkers. It was a Monday

night but the 134-seat dining room was almost full and the

lounge bars were buzzing with beautiful people. It was

ladies’ night, with an all-night-long happy hour on specialty

dishes and signature sips. Manager Layne Nguyen seated us

at a booth at the edge of the expansive dining room from

which we could observe the comings-and-goings from a

perfect vantage point. Having dinner at Nobu – anywhere in

the world, generally – is usually a people watcher’s dream.

Located within the grounds of Doha’s Four Seasons hotel –

on its own pier overlooking the Arabian Gulf – Qatar’s is

currently the biggest Nobu restaurant in the world. Sprawling

26,000ft 2 over three levels – including a rooftop lounge, two

indoor bars and private dining rooms – it sometimes feels a

little like a high-end eating and drinking terminal, rather than

a restaurant.

We start off by spiritually joining Martha Stewart’s table, and

ordering some of Nobu’s famous sake cocktails. My friend

tries the Soshu 28, a brave choice with a kick of blueberries

and energy drink, while I opt for the slightly more sedate

lemongrass-tinged Japanese Mojito. Both are heady and full

of flavour. The restaurant’s Omakase experience follows, for a

taste of some of Nobu’s most renowned dishes. We also

ordered a bottle of the Chilean Montes Sauvignon Blanc, a

crisp, slightly fruity vino which proved the perfect

accompaniment for the assortment of dishes which followed.

After a light amuse- bouche of vegetable rolls, our friendly

waiter, Daniel, served Yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno – an

absolutely delightful starter. The sashimi was deftly fanned

out across the plate, each a buttery soft mouthful. With our

taste buds piqued, we munched our way through a

delectable sushi selection (we particularly love the nod to the

Americas with the mini salmon taco), sweet crab served in its

shell with a citrus vinaigrette, traditional Peruvian raw fish


dish tiradito, and a moreish serving of popcorn-style shrimp

tempura balls.

After a short break, Daniel presented the one dish that Nobu

is best known for, Black Cod Yuzu Miso, and I am happy to

report that it lived up to the fanfare. Adapted from a

centuries-old traditional Japanese recipe, the filet is steeped

in miso before serving until it is delightfully sweet, moist and

tender. We also tried a spicy beef tenderloin Toban Yaki, with

three different kinds of mushroom, a choice I heartily

recommend if you are dining à la carte and don’t fancy

seafood. The meal closed with a dessert of mochi ice cream -

a Japanese treat made with sticky rice cake. Delicious. My

dining companion was served a slightly dry chocolate fondant

with vanilla ice cream in a lacquered box, which sadly

seemed a bit of an after-thought given the overall intense

attention to detail. Still, this was a minor smudge after an

exceptional evening. The exquisite dishes and well considered

flavours would have had us coming back for more, despite

the high Nobu price tag. But it was the combination of fine

fare and a decadent fashion-led ambience that makes this

one of Doha’s must-visit restaurants.

It was getting late by the time we stopped feasting, but there

continued to be a steady flow of new arrivals seeking sushi and

cocktails. As we were leaving, we looked hopefully towards the

lifts just in case De Niro was making a late entrance, but it was

not to be. Martha would just have to do this time.

Executive chef: Andrew Bozoki

Address: Four Seasons Hotel Doha Marina, Doha, Qatar

Telephone: +974 4494 8888

Email: nobu.doh@fourseasons.com

Website:

www.fourseasons.com/doha/dining/restaurants/nobu_doha

Cuisine: Contemporary Japanese

Opening hours: 7 nights 18:30 – 23:30

Suggested dinner: Crispy rice with spicy salmon (QR120), edamame

(QR25), Yellowtail sashimi (QR150), rock shrimp

tempura (QR135), Black cod (QR235), Nobu

cheesecake (QR65).

Perfect dinner: Omakase menu (QR450 or QR650/person)



Children: No high chairs, no kids menu.


Parking: Free valet





BRANDON

BLOCK


music&

NIGHT

LIFE

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER INTERVIEWS BRANDON BLOCK, ONCE

A SHY JEWISH SCHOOLBOY FROM WEMBLEY, WHOSE METEORIC

RISE TO GLOBAL DJ FAME SAW HIM BECOME A HEDONISTIC

BALEARIC LEGEND, AND ONE OF THE FOUNDING FATHERS OF

THE LEGENDARY TERRACE AT ICONIC CLUB, SPACE IBIZA

Who was your greatest musical inspiration as a teenager?

Elvis played a big part in my formative years, since he was

played in the house as I was growing up. But no one artist

defined my musical tastes. Rather many different places and

people. Disco and jazz-funk were my passion. Also punk, ska,

reggae and 80's rock and pop. Being a teenager in the 70s

and 80s was probably one of the best ever periods for music.

How did your DJ'ing career start?

In the ‘80s as a mobile DJ in my local public house, the John

Lyon. One evening the pub’s resident DJ didn’t show up, so the

landlord asked my mates and I to play for the evening. We

rushed home to pick-up our milk crates full of 12” imports –

most of which we had bought from Daddy Ernie’s record stall

in Wembley market – and played the whole night. It was such

a success that the pub landlord asked if we would take the

weekly spot, which we did. The night became so popular that

there were regularly queues down the road, so he paid us GBP

30 between the three of us. The rest, as they say, is history.

Who were your mentors as a young disc jockey?

I used to listen to underground jazz-funk and soul radio,

including Invicta FM, JFM, Capital Radio’s Greg Edwards Soul

Spectrum, Robbie Vincent's Saturday shows on Radio

London, and Steve Walsh. One particular DJ who had the

greatest impact on me, with whom I am still working to this

day, is Jon Jules. Jon used to own an underground record shop

called R&D, where many DJs used to congregate, including

Paul Oakenfold and Simon Dunmore.

Describe your DJ'ing style back in the late 80s and today?

And what is your favourite musical genre to play and

why?

I suppose you could call my current style eclectic and

Balearic. Thirty years ago, although I had all my new acid

house music, I would still draw on my musical roots and drop

in ‘80s classics, which were either pop or disco tracks.

Anything to enhance the mood really.

Which were your favourite clubs back then and why?

Club nights were opening on a daily basis and I was going out

all the time. Just a few of the best clubs of the time, were

Haven Stables, Queens, Shoom, Fubar, Spectrum, Loud

Noise, Trip, Confusion and Clink Street. There was an

incredible camaraderie in clubland back then, since it gave

everyone a common ground and a new, all embracing,

worldwide community.

Please tell us about your first ever trip to Ibiza?

It was in 1990 with Charlie Chester - we went on a recon


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mission. The island was incredible. Amnesia, Pacha and Ku

(now known as Privilege) were all in their heyday, filled with

the craziest people having the wildest times. Back then Ku

was open-air, held 10,000 people and was the world's

largest nightclub according to the Guinness Book Of

Records. It was the most amazing place you could ever want

to party.

Your pioneering daytime residency with Alex P on the

terrace of Space Ibiza in the early ’90s took club life on the

island to a whole new dimension. Tell us how your

collaboration with Alex P came about?

I had first met Alex in London a few years earlier, before

seeing him again at Cafe del Mar in Ibiza in 1991, which was

only my second visit to the White Isle. He told me that night to

come to Space in the morning and play alongside him. The

place was heaving, the atmosphere electric and playing on

the terrace at Space that day was one of the most

life-changing experiences of my DJ’ing career.

You played at the final Space Ibiza closing party a few

months ago in October. How did it feel to be back on the

terrace more than a quarter of a century later?

Despite playing just a 45-minute DJ set, the opportunity to

play on the terrace again, in front of a very much up-for-it

Space Ibiza crowd, will go down as a historic moment in my

memory, and I’m pretty sure that everyone who was there will

remember the final closing party for the rest of their lives.

Vinyl or digital, which gives you most pleasure?

I believe that we should all embrace technology. Vinyl is beautiful

and ageless but it’s become a luxury item, and for DJ’ing

purposes you rarely find a nightclub with turntables these days,

unless they’re specifically requested. Saying that, for me vinyl has

the edge. We used to have to hunt for tunes, queue to buy

imported records as they arrived in the shops, and find exclusives

to play to make our DJ sets different. These days, if you want a

tune you can almost always find it immediately, and the ease of

access to music today has taken some of the mystery away.


Your thoughts about Electronic Dance Music.

If you’re talking about the use of modern synths and

machines, to make the noise that the masses are listening to,

it’s really not for me. It has no soul or grooves, and so it’s not

musical in my mind.

Is there anything you miss from the early days of your

DJ’ing career?

I miss visiting record shops – like Black Market Records –

finding music, meeting friends and discussing tunes. And

promoting my own parties and seeing people enjoying

themselves. Those years were the best of times.

What are your most treasured records and why?

My early house music and disco collection. Once the club

scene started to progress, in the late 80s and 90s, it

became easier to produce music as technology had

advanced, so lots of music was released and the quality

began to suffer to the point

where lots of music was lost.

Your much publicised

recreational drug habit

almost killed you. What

caused you to change your

life and how has being sober

changed your music and

DJ’ing?

It made me focus more on the

music, and changed my life

dramatically because I was

very nearly not alive 20 years

ago. As far as my DJ’ing goes,

my love of music hasn’t

changed and I’m still as passionate about music as I always

was. If anything, music has given me a life again.

During the height of your career - when you toured the

States, Europe, Hong Kong, Australia and everywhere in

between - which were your favourite hotels?

I love hotels in Thailand. For sheer opulence and grandeur I

have to say the Burj al Arab in Dubai - I stayed there many

years ago and it was just incredible. Having said that, some of

the hotels in Vegas are quite spectacular. I’m grateful to have

had the opportunity to have seen and visited so many places

around the world.

The place was heaving,

the atmosphere electric

and playing on the

terrace at Space that

day was one of the most

life-changing experiences

of my DJ’ing career

programme, Top Of The Pops, performing ‘You Should Be’ was

a highlight of my career.

You have DJ'd in places like Ibiza and London where

people are very open-minded, but you have also DJ'd in

the Middle East where people are much more

conservative. Do you tailor your shows depending on

where you perform or aim to please party-goers in the

same fashion everywhere?

As a professional DJ you should be prepared for any musical

eventuality. These days, due to the internet and ease of

accessibility, party goers are generally into what I play. But I

do still try to prepare for a set, and because I can carry so

much music with me (today), I almost always have

something for everyone.

What do you consider to be your greatest

achievements to date?

Getting myself well from a very

serious drug problem, and

staying well for the past twenty

years. Being instrumental in

the emergence of Space Ibiza’s

terrace, because it had such an

impact on the global clubbing

and music scene. And most

recently, being able to get a job

with the NHS, working with

adults who have multiple

concerns, including drug and

alcohol problems, mental

health issues and

homelessness difficulties.

Your favourite place to vacation in the world and why?

A residential spa on the island of Ko Samui in Thailand, for a

week of fasting and detoxing, including two colonics every

day, on a diet of raw vegan food. I’ve met some of the most

interesting people while detoxing in Thailand, not to mention

gleaned a wealth of knowledge!

You have DJ'd in countless countries around the globe.

Where would you say that people can currently find the

best parties?

Ibiza is still a global party destination. The festivals in Croatia

are also worth checking-out.

With whom was your favourite musical collaboration?

With Ricky Morrison and Fran Sidoli as Blockster, to create

'You Should Be’, released in 1999 on Ministry of Sound. To

appear on the famous British music chart television

What one piece of advice would you give to a budding DJ

looking to start a career in music?

Try not to get disheartened. Have a strong online presence.

And regularly produce and share your own music.


We used to have to hunt for tunes,

queue to buy imported records as they

arrived in the shops, and find exclusives

to play to make our DJ sets different


CHLOÉ SMALL FAYE STUDDED BAG

Designed by the classic French fashion house founded in 1952, and instantly

recognisable thanks to polished ring and draped curb chain detailing, this

small Chloé Faye bag is a new take on funky ‘70s style, embellished with

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silvertone hardware. Crafted in grain leather

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EUR 1,432 WWW.CHLOE.COM

MIU MIU

BALLERINA FLATS

Part of the coveted label's eclectic Pre-AW16

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mogador flats, with black patent leather strap

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ankle wraps lace these up, ballerina style. Tie

them in a bow at the side and wear with

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GBP 432 WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM

KENZO FAIR ISLE JUMPER

Founded in 1970 by Japanese designer Kenzo

Takada, who was was born in Japan and moved to

Paris in 1964 to start his fashion career, to

celebrate this festive season, KENZO has designed

an exclusive capsule collection of clothing and

accessories, highlighting some of KENZO's most

recognisable icons. This 85% wool straight fit

jacquard knitted jumper, with crew neck collar,

features tiger stripes mixed with KENZO's

infamous tiger and eye motifs, and is just perfect

for facing the winter chill in style.

EUR 390 WWW.KENZO.COM

THE MIXOLOGISTS' TOOLKIT

BY HARVEY NICHOLS

Harvey Nichols asked each of

the expert mixologists from

the world’s fifty top bars what

makes the perfect cocktail,

then catalogued it all in one kit

so party hosts can shake up a

storm this festive season. This

handy collection of

cocktail-making accessories

includes a professional

Calabrese Hawthorn

copper-plated strainer

recommended by The Broken

Shaker in Miami, and The

Dead Rabbit Drinks Manual by

Sean Muldoon and Jack

McGarry, two of the most

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award-winning bartenders in

the world.

GBP 150

WWW.HARVEYNICHOLS.COM


GLOBETROTTER

It's that time of the year again when the holiday season is looming and suitably fabulous parcels must be

dished out to those nearest and dearest, likely to include a man who has everything and a

fashion-conscious lady with exceptionally good taste. It's not getting any easier to find interesting and

different presents, but hopefully The Cultured Traveller's Christmas gift round up will make many faces smile

on the morning of Sunday 25 th December, and ease the stress of shopping during the run up to the big day

FENDI BAG

BUGS BACKPACK

Founded in 1925 in Rome, Italian fashion

house Fendi debuted its first ready-to-wear

collection in 1969 under the creative direction

of Karl Lagerfeld. The German designer’s

innovative approach of combining traditional

silhouettes with modern fabrics brings a

contemporary edge to the brand's classic

aesthetic. Fun and quirky, Fendi’s Bag Bugs

series has become a cult fashion favourite. This

blue nylon backpack is detailed with leather

and palladium monster eyes, with a black and

white fur top acting as a mohawk. Humorous,

cute and additively usable, padded straps also

ensure that it's comfortable to carry.

GBP 1,890 WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM

JO MALONE ORANGE BITTERS CANDLE

Any room, any occasion or any home can be transformed when it's styled with scent.

London-based Jo Malone is the go to brand for candles, which elegantly combine a

sense of sophistication with taste that is both audacious and chic but always infused

with a charming wit. This delicious, new limited edition candle is the perfect, warming

winter cocktail, combining a base of sandalwood and amber with bright citrus, sweet

orange and a burst of ripe mandarin, finished with a splash of bitter orange.

GBP 120 WWW.JOMALONE.CO.UK

JAM SUTTON DAVID & GOLIATH PRINT

Breaking away from the boundaries of traditional creative techniques, Jam

Sutton captures his subjects in new and exciting ways and works in a variety

of mediums. From shooting to post production, Sutton is fully hands-on and in

control of every artistic aspect when creating

his bold, recognisable pieces. This signed and

numbered 'David & Goliath' print is part of a

limited edition of 25, from a series of work

juxtaposing contemporary culture and historic

ideology, utilising modern image making

practices and technology to highlight changes

and similarities in today’s society.

GBP 426 WWW.THISISNOT.CLOTHING


ROXXLYN TRANSOCEAN

SLATE MACBOOK SKIN

If you're looking to personalise your MacBook, these

beautiful, funky yet practical handmade slate skins

by Roxxlyn have been developed to handle harsh and

unfamiliar surfaces, protect your laptop cover and

look supremely stylish. Handcrafted from genuine

slate stone yet just 0.6mm thick and easily affixed to

your computer, each skin is engineered with a

combination of artistry and precision to create a

uniquely individual natural piece.

EUP 92.44 WWW.ROXXLYN.COM

CHARLOTTE TILBURY

MAKEUP ADVENT CALENDAR

London-born make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury’s

brand was born out of her belief in the

transformative power of makeup. The much

admired beauty icon has poured all of her secrets

and passion into her signature range.

This cute 12-drawer Christmas advent calendar,

contains a travel-sized assortment of her luxe

beauty products, including Magic Cream®

Moisturiser and Wonderglow® Skin Primer, plus

an exclusive Pocket Pout lipstick in Jessica Red.

GBP 150 WWW.CHARLOTTETILBURY.COM

LANVIN POM POM KEYCHAIN

One of the oldest and indeed most iconic fashion houses

in the world, ultra-feminine Lanvin is synonymous with

jewel tones, spectacular drapery and superb finishing.

Made in Italy using several lengths of gold-toned chain

to create a swishy, luxe tassel, this Lanvin pom pom

keychain will look festive clipped onto your favourite

tote, or can be gifted to a friend in the elegant

bow-tied presentation box it comes in.

GBP 195 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

SHISEIDO SKINCARE GIFT SET

Capitalising on more than 140 years of

technology, Shiseido produces some of the

world's highest quality skin brightening

and anti-ageing products, makeup and

fragrances. Treat yourself (or spoil the man

in your life) with this collection of

revitalising products, to restore skin

youthfulness after a party-filled Christmas.

This gift set includes a 50ml pot of

lightweight, multi-functional cream, which

optimises the skin's own revitalising functions, eliminating dryness

and dullness while providing 24-hour moisture protection.

GBP 54.45 WWW.JOHNLEWIS.COM

MORGAN TRAVEL SET

BY EQUIPMENT

Originally inspired by Katherine Hepburn

and Lauren Bacall, Serge Azria relaunched

the Equipment brand in 2010 with a

collection of boy/girl styles in luxurious

silks, infusing the label's heritage with a

contemporary edge. This travel set is perfect

for long-haul flights and lounging at home,

and includes an exceptionally comfy knitted

sweater, eye mask and drawstring

sweatpants, all blended with soft wool. The

Cultured Traveller loves how this set comes

neatly packaged in a matching envelope

pouch - ideal for slipping into your luggage.

USD 468 WWW.EQUIPMENTFR.COM


A

AB NORDISKA GALLERIET www.nordiskagalleriet.se

ABBA: THE MUSEUM www.abbathemuseum.com

ACNE STUDIOS www.acnestudios.com

AHILYA FORT www.ahilyafort.com

ALOFT www.aloftdetroit.com

AMERICAN CONEY ISLAND

www.americanconeyisland.com

ARCHIPELAGO TOUR www.stromma.se

ATHENEUM www.atheneumsuites.com

AUBERGE DU SOLEIL www.aubergeresorts.com

B

B&B INN www.theinnat97winder.com

BABETTE www.babette.se

BATTY LANGLEY'S www.battylangleys.com

BELLE ISLE www.belleisleconservancy.org

BOOM SUPERSONIC www.boomsupersonic.com

C

CENTAUR BAR www.centaurbar.com

CHANGI AIRPORT www.changiairport.com

CHARTREUSE KITCHEN AND COCKTAILS

www.chartreusekc.com

COMERICA PARK www.tigers.mlb.com/det/ballpark/

D

DAS STUE www.das-stue.com

DOMAINE DES ÉTANGS www.domainedesetangs.com

E

EASTERN MARKET www.easternmarket.com

ETT HEM www.etthem.se

F

FOTOGRAFISKA www.fotografiska.eu

FOX THEATRE www.fabulousfox.com

G

GASTON www.gastonvin.se

GRAND HÔTEL www.grandhotel.se

GRAND HYATT GOA www.goa.grand.hyatt.com

GRANDPA www.grandpa.se

H

HAKKASAN DOHA

www.hakkasan.com/locations/hakkasan-doha

HIMLEN www.restauranghimlen.se

HOSHINOYA www.hoshinoresorts.com

HOT TACO www.hottacodetroit.com

HOTEL EDEN

www.dorchestercollection.com/en/rome/hotel-eden/

HUDSON CAFÉ www.hudson-cafe.com

J

JEWEL CHANGI AIRPORT www.jewelchangiairport.com

JOHNNY NOODLE KING www.johnnynoodleking.com

L

LE VENDÔME BEIRUT www.levendomebeirut.com

LILLA BAREN @ RICHE www.riche.se

LISA ELMQVIST www.lisaelmqvist.se

LYDMAR HOTEL www.lydmar.com

M

MÄLARPAVILJONGEN www.malarpaviljongen.se

MAR ADENTRO www.maradentrocabos.com


MATHIAS DAHLGREN www.mdghs.se

MICHIGAN OPERA THEATRE www.michiganopera.org

MISS CLARA BY NOBIS www.missclarahotel.com

MODERNA MUSEET www.modernamuseet.se

MODERNITY www.modernity.se

MOTOWN MUSEUM www.motownmuseum.org

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART DETROIT

www.mocadetroit.org

N

NOBEL MUSEUM www.nobelmuseum.se

NOOK www.nookrestaurang.se

NORDISKA KOMPANIET www.nk.se

NOSH AND CHOW www.noshandchow.se

O

OPERABAREN www.opearkalleren.se

ÖSTERMALMS SALUHALL www.ostermalmshallen.se

P

PAPERCUT www.papercutshop.se

PARK HYATT ST. KITTS www.stkitts.park.hyatt.com

PRESERVATION DETROIT www.preservationdetroit.org

R

RICHE www.riche.se

STUREHOF www.sturehof.com

SUGAR HOUSE www.sugarhousedetroit.com

SVENSK TENN www.svenskttenn.se

T

TAVERNA BRILLO www.tavernabrillo.se

THE ALPINA GSTAAD www.thealpinagstaad.ch

THE GOLD BAR www.nobishotel.se

THE GRASSHOPPER UNDERGROUND

www.thegrasshopperunderground.com

THE HENRY FORD www.thehenryford.org

THE HOUSE HOTEL www.thehousehotel.com

THE WESTIN BOOK CADILLAC DETROIT

www.bookcadillacwestin.com

TJOGET www.tjoget.com

U

UNDER KASTANJEN www.underkastanjen.se

URBAN DELI www.urbandeli.org

V

VASA MUSEUM www.vasamuseet.se

VERANDA www.grandhotel.se

W

WALDEMARSUDDE www.waldemarsudde.se

ROSENDALS www.rosendalstradgard.se

S

SEGERA RETREAT www.segera.com

SOORI BALI www.sooribali.com

STADSHUSET

www.international.stockholm.se/the-city-hall


(14) The Cultured Traveller, December-January 2016-17 Issue 14

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