(13) The Cultured Traveller - Second Anniversary Edition, October-November 2016 Issue 13

SECOND ANNIVERSARY EDITION

ISSUE 13

OCT-NOV 2016

MANHATTAN

ST. MORITZ • MICHEL ROUX JR • SHELTER ISLAND

ANTONIO BERARDI • GALLE FORT • NADIM KARAM • BURJ AL ARAB

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SECOND ANNIVERSARY EDITION

HIGHLIGHTS

SECOND ANNIVERSARY

EDITION OCT/NOV 2016

39 I'LL TAKE MANHATTAN

Nicholas Chrisostomou journeys back to New York City’s

Manhattan island after a decade-long absence, and discovers a

reborn metropolis bursting with new energy, architecture and

creativity, its crowning glory Spanish architect Santiago

Calatrava’s jaw-dropping World Trade Center Transportation

Hub, the Oculus.

76 LEBANON’S DE FACTO ARTIST LAUREATE

Since the early 1990s, Nadim Karam has left his mark on the

metropolitan visages of Beirut and beyond. Lebanon’s de facto

artist laureate, Karam’s worldwide urban art installations

underscore their visceral sensibilities through architecture that

tells a story of the space it occupies. The Cultured Traveller’s

Ashlee Starratt explores themes of urban renewal and creative

rebellion with the artist himself.

124 LA PETITE BEIRUT

Nicholas Chrisostomou visits upscale Nicoise-inspired French

restaurant, La Petite Maison Beirut, in its new city centre location

in the cosmopolitan Lebanese capital, and discovers a unique

mélange of food and art.

132 ANTONIO BERARDI

Since his Central Saint Martin’s graduate collection in 1994,

Antonio Berardi has fused his Sicilian and British background

to establish a beautiful aesthetic - simple, elegant, undercut

with femme-fatale coolness – as well as a resilient international

business. He talks to The Cultured Traveller about his work,

favourite new designers, his old friend, John Galliano, and

Bruno, his dog.

114 MASTER CHEF MICHEL

The Cultured Traveller interviews Michelin-starred Michel Roux

Jr. about Le Gavroche turning 50, the London restaurant scene,

marathon running and cooking at home.

36 ROYAL SUITE WEEKEND

Win a weekend stay in Park Hyatt Dubai's spectacular 220m 2

Royal Suite – the hotel’s biggest - boasting separate, sprawling

living, dining and sleeping areas, huge private balconies offering

panoramic Dubai Creek and marina views, and a huge master

bathroom. This incredible prize includes return airport limo

transfers from DXB, personalised butler service, breakfast every

morning, and dinner for two at The Thai Kitchen.

October/November 2016 The Cultured Traveller 05

CONTENTS

108

86

69

71

14

10

09 EDITOR’S LETTER

Our Editor-in-Chief looks back at

some of the far-flung places covered

in TCT during the past two years, and

the high-profile individuals who have

talked to us, including interviews with

everyone from Sofía Vergara to

America's 2016 Top Chef, Jeremy Ford,

together with cover stories about

Bogotá, Islamabad and Beirut.

10 NEWSFLASH

The Cultured Traveller’s rounds-up the

must see events, seasonal happenings

and festivals taking place around the

globe in October and November 2016,

including the spectacular balloon

fiesta in Albuquerque, Day Of The

Dead in Mexico, Krampusnacht in

Austria, and Thailand’s slightly

disturbing vegetarian festival.

14 REST YOUR HEAD

Hotels featured in our Second

Anniversary Edition include grande

dame of Hyde Park Corner, The

Lanesborough. Shemshak ski resort’s

arctic spaceship-like Barin Hotel in

Iran. Hip and happening Brown Beach

House in vibrant Tel Aviv, and Ritz

Paris, fresh from its four-year USD 450

million refit.

69 SUITE ENVY

Opulence and luxury are on the menu

as the The Cultured Traveller heads to

Dubai, where, in this most affluent of

cities rests the world’s only seven-star

hotel. Ashlee Starratt checks in to a

panoramic duplex suite at the most

recognisable hotel on the planet, Burj

Al Arab.

86 BOARDING PASS

The Cultured Traveller team

investigates the current strength of the

world’s passports in light of Henley &

Partners’ 2016 rankings, how far they

will take you without a visa, and what

it might cost you to legitimately obtain

a second passport, which is actually

worth having.

88 NO SHOES REQUIRED

A quick ferry ride from the New York

City elite’s flash Hamptons playground,

88

64 126

06 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

132 94

Alex Benasuli enjoys the unassuming,

quiet sophistication of laid-back

vacation haven, Shelter Island,

tucked between the north and south

forks of Long Island, on America's

Eastern Seaboard.

chefs excels at classic French cooking.

Alex Benasuli visits the London

Langham hotel’s flagship restaurant,

Roux at the Landau, opened in 2010

and helmed by Michel Roux Jr, to find

out whether the cuisine is on par with

Le Gavroche.

114

94 SPOTLIGHT

Nicholas Chrisostomou embarks

upon his maiden detox at the

Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains in

the Swiss alpine playground of St.

Moritz. Up where the air is clear, five

days of juicing, outdoor activities and

spa treatments does as much for the

soul as for the body, he soon discovers.

100 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Nicholas Chrisostomou explores the

town within the ancient ramparts of

16 th century UNESCO world heritage

Galle Fort, on the Indian Ocean island

of Sri Lanka, just four hours flying

time from the Middle East and Asia,

yet a world away from the 21 st century.

108 TASTE & SIP

The world famous Roux family of

126 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

The Cultured Traveller interviews the

much celebrated, gentle yet

charismatic Cuban-born violin

maestro and jazz musician, Omar

Puente, about growing up in Cuba,

studying music in Havana, performing

around world and his new album

offering, Best Foot Forward.

140 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

Given that the summer is over for

most of us, now is the perfect excuse

to add one or two stylish layers, and

cozy up in the season’s coolest

fashion offerings whilst staying warm

and remaining stylish. The Cultured

Traveller team rounds-up some hot

fashion picks to keep you on trend

and looking cool in the autumn.

108

124

140

100

We are honoured

and privileged

to be ranked

No. 25 on

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SHELTER ISLAND

ANTONIO BERARDI

BURJ AL ARAB

EDITOR’S

LETTER

When I came up with the concept of The Cultured Traveller -

on a Cyprus beach a little over two years ago - my idea was

to provide a concise, topical and easy-to-read publication

that would appeal to seasoned and discerning travellers –

but wasn't dominated by ads, or swamped with paid

advertorial. Up until then I had been contributing to a number

of well-known travel magazines and, quite frankly, could no longer bear flicking past dozens

of pages of ads before reaching a decent article. So The Cultured Traveller was born. But, with

no real publishing experience I had little idea of what I had undertaken when we launched in

October 2014, and boy has it been a baptism of fire! I take my hat off to every other editor out

there, especially those at the helm of a monthly. It's a demanding and all-encompassing role.

The look of TCT may have changed considerably since the early issues, but the quality

OMAR

PUENTE

GALLE FORT

of our content and contributions have not, and I'm often amazed by some of the far-flung places we cover and honoured by the

high-profile individuals who talk to us. Interviews with everyone from Sofía Vergara to America's 2016 Top Chef, Jeremy Ford, together

with cover stories about Bogotá, Islamabad and Beirut, have graced our past twelve issues, and I would like to sincerely thank all the

dedicated writers who have contributed their words to The Cultured Traveller.

Our Second Anniversary Edition leads with an extended feature on Manhattan, written by yours truly, about my experience of one of

the world's greatest cities, fifteen years after 9/11 (p. 39). Ashlee Starratt spent a weekend at the most recognised hotel on the planet,

the lavish Burj Al Arab in Dubai (p. 69), while Alex Benasuli was on the other side of the globe on Shelter Island, on America's Eastern

Seaboard, enjoying an utterly different pace of life (p. 88). To mark the occasion of our second birthday, The Cultured Traveller

interviewed a variety of individuals at the top of their game in different industries. Celebrated Lebanese artist and architect, Nadim

Karam (p. 76); Michelin-starred French chef and TV personality, Michel Roux Jr. (p. 114); darling of the global fashion industry, the

immensely talented designer, Antonio Berardi (p. 132); and Cuban-born international violin maestro, Omar Puente (p. 126), all chatted

with us about their careers and fascinating lives.

I hope you enjoy reading The Cultured Traveller's Second Anniversary Edition - our biggest to date I might add - as much as I and our team

enjoyed travelling the globe to put it together. Less than 20 per cent of TCT is ads, and I hope we can keep it that way as long as possible, so

that the remaining 80 per cent can shine with the people, stories and places that our incredible, colourful world has to offer – making our

publication 100 per cent a labour of love with each and every new issue. Here’s to the next two years, and to all cultured travellers.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

Editor-in-Chief

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AUSTIN CITY LIMITS

MUSIC FESTIVAL

USA

Held at Austin’s Zilker

Metropolitan Park in the

south of the city – a beautiful

recreational area of more than 350

acres at the juncture of Barton Creek

and the Colorado River – the ACL

Music Festival was founded in 2002

and spans two, consecutive three-day

weekends annually. Boasting eight

stages, where musical groups from a

variety of genres including rock, indie,

country, folk, electronic and hip hop

perform for around half a million fans,

in addition to the live performances,

the festival showcases local foods, art,

crafts and charitable organisations.

The 2016 fifteenth anniversary line-up

includes Radiohead, Major Lazor and

Flume. Not to be missed is LL Cool J’s

official 2016 ACL Fest Late Night

Show, at 9pm on Saturday 8 th

October, featuring DJ Z-Trip with Lizzo

and open to all ages.

30 Sep - 2 Oct 2016 + 7-9 Oct 2016

www.aclfestival.com


VEGETARIAN

FESTIVAL

THAILAND

While the origins of this

festival are a little fuzzy,

the most agreed-upon version of

events is that a wandering Chinese

opera company fell ill with Malaria

while performing in Phuket, and in

order to beat the disease, the group

adopted a strict vegetarian diet, and

prayed intensely to the nine emperor

gods for purification of their bodies

and minds to cure themselves.

Surprisingly, the group made a

miraculous and complete recovery,

and they celebrated by originating a

festival to honour the gods. Thus

Phuket’s annual Vegetarian Festival

was born. Attended by thousands, the

festival features a number of rituals,

including participants piercing their

mouths, cheeks, ears, and arms with

fish-hooks, knives, razor blades and

bamboo poles in dramatic fashion.

Countless offerings of food and drink

are also made to the gods in temples

throughout the city.

4-14 October 2016

www.phuketvegetarian.com

ALBUQUERQUE

INTERNATIONAL

BALLOON FIESTA

USA

Now in its 45 th year, the

Albuquerque International

Balloon Fiesta brings together pilots,

crews and hot air and gas ballooning

enthusiasts from more than fifty

countries and draws a crowd of up to

100,000. With hundreds upon hundreds

of brightly coloured balloons taking off,

the fiesta is an impressive visual

spectacle. Mass ascensions - when

many hundreds of balloons lift off into

the morning sky - are held on all four

weekend mornings and one day

mid-week. Mass ascensions begin after

a dawn patrol carefully examines the

morning's weather conditions. When the

FRIEZE LONDON

UK

This much lauded annual

art fair, takes over a large

part of London’s Regent’s Park every

year, and sees more than 160 leading

and emerging national and

international art dealers and galleries

present their finest contemporary

works. Frieze also showcases short

films, runs workshops, hosts seminars

and shows performance-based

installation artworks. The 14 th edition of

Frieze London sees works shown by

renowned galleries from across the

world, including Cheim & Read,

Gagosian Gallery, and Sadie Coles,

together with a host of fascinating

lectures and conversations about the

art world and the art market with Frieze

Talks, curated by Christy Lange (Frieze

Magazine) and Gregor Muir of London’s

Institute of Contemporary Arts. Not to

be missed are some of the fair’s more

controversial highlights, including

Martin Soto Climent’s sculpture

animated by real acrobats.

6-9 October 2016 www.frieze.com

dawn patrol gives the green light,

balloons from all over the world rise

together in a harmonious lift off as dawn

breaks over the Sandia Mountains. The

sight of 500 balloons in the sky is as

breathtaking for first-time visitors as it

continues to be for veteran attendees.

1-9 October 2016

www.balloonfiesta.com

CAFÉ BUDAPEST

CONTEMPORARY

ARTS FESTIVAL

HUNGARY

The 2016 incarnation of

Hungary’s Café Budapest

Contemporary Arts Festival offers more

than 110 programs at over 40 venues

across the city - including the city’s

enormous cultural complex, Művészetek

Palotája - with many offering free entry.

Spanning more than two weeks, this

year’s festival will focus on

Hungarian-born composer, Béla Bartók,

whose work and life are a source of

inspiration for many local and international

artists. The festival program always covers

a wide spectrum and showcases a range

of musical genres, including classical, pop,

jazz and opera, as well as providing a

platform for contemporary dance, circus

acts, theatrical performances, fine arts,

design and photography. Look out for

performances and mini concerts happening

at public places across the beautiful city

of Budapest throughout the festival.

7-23 October 2016

www.cafebudapestfest.hu

ALBA INTERNATIONAL

WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR

ITALY

From early October to mid

November every year, the

pretty town of Alba, nestled in the

Piedmont region of northern Italy an hour

by car from Turin, hosts the annual Alba

International White Truffle Fair, to

coincide with the late autumn harvest

period of the tartufo bianco. Known as

the town of a hundred medieval towers,

Alba’s old town centre is beautifully

preserved, and strolling its streets and

piazzas, with a gelato in hand, is one of

life's great pleasures. As the truffle fair

approaches, international chefs,

gastronomy buffs, oenophiles and

travelling foodies all descend upon Alba to

NEW YORK CITY WINE

& FOOD FESTIVAL

USA

Born in 2007 as a

one-nighter called SWEET,

the following year, founder and festival

director, Lee Brian Schrager, took the

event to the next level, launching what

is now the New York City Wine and Food

Festival, routinely acclaimed as one of

the country’s most successful food

festivals. For four days each

autumn/fall, culinary giants, celebrity

chefs, mixologists, vintners and foodies

from around the globe, unite to eat,

drink and end world hunger, via a series

of tastings, seminars, workshops,

dinners and parties, with 100% of the

proceeds – upwards of USD 1 million –

going to hunger relief organisation Food

Bank For New York City and Share Our

Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign.

Now in its ninth year, NYCWFF offers a

diverse range of dishes and culinary

experiences, across a broad range of

price points across New York City.

13-16 October 2016

www.nycwff.org

sample the decadent, aromatic and wildly

exclusive white truffle. Here the little

unattractive mushrooms - sniffed out by

trained dogs and pigs - are cleaned,

meticulously preserved and shaved

sparingly over pasta, risotto, grilled

vegetables and just about everything else.

8 October - 27 November 2016

www.fieradeltartufo.org

MASSKARA

PHILIPPINES

Known as the ‘City of

Smiles’, Bacolod’s

world-famous fun-filled MassKara

festival, now on its 37 th year, is a

popular celebration that traces its

roots to the early 1980s when it was

introduced as a way to boost morale

after poor sugarcane sales and a

tragedy that took the lives of 1,000

people. Since then, this vibrant and

brightly-coloured festival has become

a much revered annual happening.

Thousands of masked dancers

perform in the streets, and spectators

are treated to local foods, beverages,

flowers and crafts. The main few days

of MassKara consist of a large parade,

dancing contests, sports events,

pageants and street parties. The name

of the festival is derived from the

words ‘mass’ for many, and ‘kara’, a

local word that translates to ‘face’,

and what makes MassKara so much

fun is the genuine warmth of the

locals.

14-18 October 2016

www.facebook.com/kbdfi

FRANKFURT BOOK FAIR

GERMANY

With more than 275,000 visitors attending last year, the Frankfurt Book

Fair, now in it’s 67 th year, has firmly established itself as one of the most

important events in the global literary calendar. Thousands of publishers, authors,

retailers, illustrators, librarians, self-publishers and multimedia suppliers from

around the globe, converge annually on the German powerhouse city to exchange

information, launch books and negotiate the sale of international publishing rights.

New for 2016 is THE ARTS+ (www.theartsplus.com), a hub for business in the

cultural and creative industries, and a veritable fair of its own within Frankfurt

Book Fair. Expect top-notch speakers, technology innovations, best practice cases,

creative presentations and networking events at THE ARTS+, plus a salon for

exclusive talks and a lab for interactive performances.

19-23 October 2016 www.buchmesse.de

WEXFORD

FESTIVAL OPERA

IRELAND

Since the first Festival of

Music and the Arts took

place in October 1951, Wexford

Festival Opera has grown into one of

the world’s leading opera festivals. For

65 years the festival has breathed new

life into forgotten or neglected operatic

masterpieces, establishing a

reputation for high-quality

productions, that every year bring

thousands of opera lovers flocking

from all over the world to the beautiful

harbour town of Wexford, in the

southeastern corner of the island. All

operas are performed at The National

Opera House, Ireland’s first

custom-built opera house, and this

year’s festival includes performances

of William Walton’s The Bear and

DIWALI

INDIA

Commonly referred to as

The Festival Of Lights,

India’s biggest celebration, Diwali, is

full of reverence and good cheer.

Diwali is an ancient Hindu festival

SALON DU

CHOCOLAT

FRANCE

Renowned around the

globe as the world's largest

event dedicated to chocolate

innovations and cocoa expressions,

Salon Du Chocolat is a unique

happening revered by chocolate

aficionados the world over. Now in it’s

22 nd year, the annual chocfest is held

in the heart of Paris, at the Porte de

Versailles Exhibition Center with plenty

of space to host international

chocolatiers. Visitors have a unique

opportunity to discover and taste

chocolates that are not found

anywhere else, courtesy of more than

500 chocolatiers, pastry makers and

confectioners from five continents, not

to mention some of the world’s

greatest pastry chefs and cocoa

Samuel Barber’s Vanessa, as well as

the more well-known Il Campanello

and Maria de Rudenz, both by

Donizetti.


www.wexfordopera.com


celebrating the victory of light over

darkness, hope over despair, and the

return of the Sixth Guru, Guru

Hargobind Ji, who was freed from

imprisonment and also managed to

release 52 political prisoners at the

same time from Gwalior fort by

Mughal Emperor Jahangir in 1619. An

important tradition in India,

participants clean their homes before

the festival and celebrate with friends

and family by sharing food and

exchanging gifts. Houses are

festooned with electric lights, and

candles, lamps, torches and fireworks

are lit at night, providing a spectacular

display of light, that symbolises the

awareness of inner light and the

triumph of good over evil.

30 Oct - 3 Nov 2016

experts, plus The International Cocoa

Awards, the only event in the world

celebrating the work of planters and

the richness of expression of cocoa.


www.salonduchocolat.fr

DÍA DE LOS MUERTOS

MEXICO

At the beginning of every

November, in the city of

Oaxaca approximately 280 miles

southeast of Mexico City, 3,000

year-old Día de los Muertos (Day of

the Dead) is celebrated with a

three-day festival honoring the dead

and welcoming their souls home as a

blessing. Basically, Mexican families

throw a feast and invite the dead

over for dinner, and celebrate instead

of mourn. October 31 st is a day of

preparation, when the women clean

the house and prepare food, while

the guys build clay altars in the

home. November 1 st is dedicated to

children and infants - Día de los

Angelitios (Day of the Little Angels).

And the main event on 2 nd November

- Día de los Muertos - is for the

adults, with bigger and more

elaborate decorated skulls or

Calaveras, more complex rituals,

spicier foods and lots of added

tequila.

1-2 November 2016

PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR

INDIA

The sleepy lakeside

settlement of Pushkar, in

the Ajmer region of the north Indian

state of Rajasthan, comes to life every

year for a unique and incredibly

colourful camel beauty pageant. Close

to 50,000 are coiffured, shaved,

paraded, raced and entered into

various beauty contests. With silver

bells and bangles dangling around

their hoofs, they are strutted past the

golden sand dunes infront of an overly

excited crowd. Aside from the

thousands of camels traded during the

fair, other livestock are bought and

sold, as well as textiles, art, saddles,

jewellery and finery for camels. The

fair is also known far and wide for the

huge variety of body tattoos on show.

The religious festival of Kartik Purnima

falls on the last day, and sees

thousands of devotees bathe in

Pushkar Lake.

8-15 November 2016

www.pushkar-camel-fair.com

KRAMPUSNACHT

AUSTRIA

Krampus is a historic cruel

demon of debatable

historic origin who haunts the Central

European mountainous region that

birthed the creature, particularly

during the Krampusnacht festival.

Nowhere is this devil rampaging

more, than the Austrian town of

Klagenfurt, where the biggest and

most rowdy Krampusnacht unfolds

every year, filled with demons literally

everywhere. The highlight of

Krampusnacht is essentially an

alcohol-fueled Krampuslauf race,

which winds through the

pedestrian-friendly city center of

Klagenfurt, with a thousand

alpine-jogging contestants dressed

as scary, child-kidnapping, horned

and furry devils. So terrifyingly

demonic are the costumes, that

Austrian psychologists and schools

are actually considering banning the

creature because it's so scary to

children!

5 November 2016 (date tbc)

STRAWBERRY FIELDS

AUSTRALIA

Now in its eighth year, Strawberry Fields will return to its Murray River site

in Tocumwal - the New South Wales town on the Victorian border - with a

specially extended four-day event, celebrating the finest electronica of the

moment, complete with art installations, market stalls and workshops. Patrons are

invited to rock-up on the Thursday to secure the best camping sites, and to

celebrate the festival will host a live reggae party that night. Topping the massive

line-up for the 2016 instalment of this boutique electronic music festival, is one of

Detroit’s most prolific house selectors, Moodymann, who’ll be giving an exclusive

Victorian performance. There’ll also be London-based Dan Shake, the exclusive

Aussie debut of HVOB live, melodic house maestro Atish, plus locals including Koi

Child , Charles Murdoch, REMI and oodles more.

17-20 Nov 2016 www.strawberry-fields.com.au

THE LANESBOROUGH

Few hotels in London command such a regal position as

grande dame of Hyde Park Corner, The Lanesborough,

located in the heart of the nation's capital on the edge of

Knightsbridge and Belgravia. Opposite are Hyde Park and

Apsley House (the home of the Duke of Wellington), and just

a short walk from the hotel are Buckingham Palace, Harrods,

Harvey Nichols and the designer boutiques of Sloane Street.

Housed in one of London’s most revered Regency landmarks

- built in 1827 and used as a hospital until the 1970s after

which it lay empty for twenty years - The Lanesborough

re-opened in August 2015 after a 19-month renovation costing

tens of millions, masterminded by the late, great interior

designer, Alberto Pinto. Under the careful management of

Oetker Collection (which also owns Le Bristol in Paris and Hotel

du Cap-Eden-Roc in Cap d'Antibes, amongst other premium

properties), the entire building was pretty much gutted and

refilled with crystal chandeliers, parquet floors, antiques,

trompe-l'oeil, original 18 th century artworks (including three by

Reynolds), miles of marble and gleaming gold leaf, rendering

the hotel even more unapologetically OTT than before. This is

14

Rest Your Head

London, Shemshak, Lecce, San Francisco, Paço De Sousa, Tel Aviv, Ajman,

Palma De Mallorca, San Cristobal De Las Casas, Anguilla, Kaplankaya, Paris

LONDON

not a hotel for minimalists, modernists, purveyors of all things

sleek, shiny, pared-down or monochrome. On the contrary, The

Lanesborough is an uncompromising riot of beautifully

executed Regency splendour and lavish decadence.

The meticulous attention to detail and palace-like opulence

extends to the 93 rooms and suites, into which the latest

communication technologies and entertainment systems have

been seamlessly woven. Furnishings, fabrics, mirrors, carpets,

wall coverings and beds were all sourced from the finest

British suppliers, to create rooms and suites of extraordinary

quality, variety and individuality. And despite the hotel's

position on the crossroads of two very busy roads, all rooms

are utterly soundproof thanks to triple-glazed windows. Junior

suites are quite large by London standards, boasting an

entrance hall, full sized sitting room, generous bedroom and

master bathroom lined with hand cut Italian marble. The Royal

Suite, at GBP 26,000 per night, is one of London's largest and

most expensive, and unsurprisingly oft the lodgings of visiting

pop stars, royalty and sheiks. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.lanesborough.com

BARIN HOTEL

SHEMSHAK

As relations between the West and Iran begin to thaw, the country is in

the beginning of a tourism boom. While Tehran, Isfahan and Shiraz

may be visitors’ preferred destinations, Iran offers incredible natural

scenery and a burgeoning boutique hotel industry. Only an hour

outside Tehran, in the picturesque Alborz Mountains, there are ski

resorts on par with those in Europe and the States. Amongst them,

Shemshak ski resort is one of the best, and lying at a pretty high 2,500

meters it caters to more advanced skiers as well as beginners.

Connoisseurs love the dry and plentiful powder snow conditions,

matched with crystal clear blues skies.

Situated in the very heart of the mountains, approximately one

kilometre from the centre of Shemshak, you will find Barin Hotel, rising

out of the majestic landscape like a giant modern igloo – all white,

clean and flowing lines – skillfully conceptualised to integrate into its

natural surroundings covered in fresh snow.

Designed by RYRA Studio to reflect the cosmopolitan vibe of the city

and the breathtaking beauty of its setting, Barin Hotel’s striking

igloo-like theme continues through into the design of its unusual yet

attractive interiors. Domed ceilings, portal-like windows and

minimalist furnishings all contribute to create a somewhat

out-of-this-world experience, that looks and feels like an arctic

spaceship. Public spaces continue the theme of curved lines and

eccentric patterning, with the colour white dominating throughout.

Barin Hotel’s ten storeys incorporate 67 rooms and suites, including a

270m 2 penthouse. Skiers and snowboarders wanting to combine

adventure and cutting edge design when planning their next skiing

holiday need look no further. ALEX BENASULI

www.iranskitours.ir


LECCE

BROWN BEACH HOUSE

In recent years Tel Aviv has warmly embraced the designer, boutique hotel trend, and there are now many stylish offerings in the

city, including The Norman, The Rothschild and The Montefiore to name but a few. One of the first was Brown TLV, which opened

in trendy Neve Tzedek in 2010 and has since become a much loved hospitality landmark. Until recently, Tel Aviv–bound beach

lovers and partygoers had two accommodation location options – to either crash at a somewhat boring chain hotel along the

city's coastline and be close to the sea, or forego a beachfront vacation to stay at a funky, upscale property inland. Brown TLV's

owners - the ambitious Leon Avigad and Nitzan Perry - changed all that by opening a sister hotel by the sea, nestled amongst

some of Tel Aviv’s most anticipated waterfront architectural projects.

Brown Beach House is the first boutique hotel close to Tel Aviv's seafront, set back one street from the sea about a

minute from the city's sun-bronzed sands. With a moody black entrance and a giant pink neon flamingo high above the

door, at first glance Brown Beach House looks more like a nightclub than a hotel, and nothing like the typical uninspiring

hospitality chain properties that line the promenade. The glamour and fun continue inside, with the interiors of the hotel's

40 rooms a striking Ibiza-esque blend of black, white and yellow retro resort chic and city cool, featuring monochrome

zig-zag carpets, canary yellow chesterfields, swathes of decadent Carrera marble, oversized black-framed four posters

and sharp brass detailing. Bedside lights in the shape of golden pineapples are indicative of the playful touches dotted

throughout, whilst cane and vintage furniture, wall-to-wall bookshelves and giant palms in planters lend a relaxed urban

glam feel to the lobby and public spaces downstairs.

Staying at Brown Beach House means that the party comes to you, since the hotel's vivacious Flamingo Bar is a

neighbourhood hotspot for live music, pop-up events and visual art parties attended by a good-looking crowd who

throwback herb-infused cocktails carefully crafted by handsome mixologists. As if that wasn't enough, the hotel is next door

to The Imperial, which was recently voted the best cocktail bar in the Middle East. Visitors to Israel's vibrant and cosmopolitan

metropolis most certainly now have suitably high end design-conscious digs, one block from the Mediterranean, to live it up

then rest their sun kissed party heads. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.brownhotels.com/beach

18

LA FIERMONTINA

History whispers through every window at this 17 th century villa, cloistered within the handsome walled Baroque

city of Lecce, in Italy’s beautiful Puglia region, in the remote heel of the country's boot. Having stumbled upon

the house and adjoining land for sale in 2000 while visiting the city, the new owner, Giacomo Fiermonte, a

native of France, set upon an extensive five-year restoration and construction programme, to incorporate a

large portion of the original residence into the hotel’s new footprint, whilst honouring the site’s historic roots.

French designers, Charles-Philippe and Christophe, filled the interiors of the 16 guest rooms with classic

pietra di Trani stone floors, modern Italian furniture, vintage items by Charlotte Perriand, and artworks from the

owner’s collection including pieces by Le Corbusier. Custom textiles and expertly crafted Italian furniture

complete the happy marriage of antique and contemporary in each chic bedroom, many of which have

star-pinnacle ceilings, private balconies and open fireplaces.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner can either be taken in the dining room of within the gardens, but dining al fresco,

amidst the hotel’s olive groves and orange trees, is by far the best way to enjoy the hotel’s menu of homemade

dishes which showcase traditional Pugliese fare, enriched by the splendour of fresh, locally-farmed

ingredients.

Guests can embark on a wealth of unique, tailored experiences during their stay at La Fiermontina, that

include hiking and walking tours of the region’s stunning countryside and coastal trails, wine and olive oil

tasting experiences, a picnic in bohemian Salento (the southern tip of Italy's Puglia region), and even a

meditative journey that explores the area’s cultural dance traditions. To experience Italy in all her authenticity

doesn’t come in a more delightfully immersive package than La Fiermontina. Best of all, it’s just a 30-minute

drive to the blissful beaches along the Adriatic Sea. ASHLEE STARRATT

www.lafiermontina.com

TEL AVIV

SAN FRANCISCO

20

PALACE HOTEL

Located on New Montgomery Street just off

Market, just a few blocks from Union Square

and about the same to the Financial District,

when the Palace Hotel first opened its

majestic doors in 1875, having cost USD

5million to build, it was the epitome of

grandeur in a bustling new city, San

Francisco’s first luxury hotel and the largest

in the world at the time, but it drove its

founders to financial catastrophe. The

devastating earthquake of 1906 threw

guests from their beds and caused fires

which tore through the hotel and completely

gutted the building. Following a rebuild

which cost USD10 million, the Palace's 553

guest rooms including 34 suites welcomed

guests again, until a further renovation in

1989 costing a reputed USD170 million.

Following a recent nine-month

top-to-bottom refresh of its guest rooms,

pool, fitness center, lobby and Garden Court,

courtesy of California-based interior

designer Beatrice Girelli of firm Indidesign,

the Palace joined Starwood's Luxury

Collection of unique properties around the

world and has reclaimed its title as San

Francisco's premiere hotel, just in time for

the city's second golden age.

The dramatic renovated, glass-domed

Garden Court - all dazzling Austrian crystal

chandeliers, columns of Italian marble and

prime real estate for people-watching - now

features modern furnishings, bright

upholstery and patterned rugs, with a

portion of the vast space now serving as a

lounge, for guests to relax and sip a cocktail

in a slightly more informal environment than

the adjacent dining area. Overall the Garden

Court is truly breathtaking in its architectural

beauty. Meanwhile refreshed bedrooms and

suites of clean-lined furnishings and a soft,

serene palette of cream and dove grey, form

the perfect canvas for bursts of orange, lively

rugs and shimmering drapes, whilst leather

headboards, dark wood accents, metallic

surfaces and marble baths lend a

contemporary, warm and more residential

feel to guest accommodations.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.sfpalace.com

PAÇO DE SOUSA

QUINTA DO LOBO BRANCO

On the edge of the lush and green rolling hills of northern Portugal’s Douro Valley, about thirty minutes from Porto, lies Quinta

Do Lobo Branco, open since 2014. The Douro Valley is famous for its vineyards and farms, dotting an extraordinary landscape

of ancient woodland, river canyons and open countryside. It is from this area of outstanding natural beauty that Quinta do

Lobo Branco’s soul is drawn. Spirituality is a quintessential element of the property’s offering, which operates akin to a

back-to-nature wellness retreat. In its own words, Quinta do Lobo Branco is about, “living in communion with nature, freedom

and in celebration, sharing with others the love for all that exists”. More than a wellness retreat just based on healthy eating

and treatments, the owners are keen to offer an experience that allows for creating the space conducive for cultivating freedom

and personal transformation. The aim is to make each guest experience as bespoke as possible. Upon arrival, a private

consultation is arranged at which objectives are discussed and a suggested stay agenda is agreed. There is daily yoga and

mediation. Nature walks are highly recommended, and a number of onsite therapists offer alternative body and mind

treatments. Trance dance is quite popular. The cuisine is vegetarian and can be offered in vegan and liquid forms if needed.

Most of the produce is locally sourced, some from the retreat’s grounds.

Quinta do Lobo Branco literally translates as “Farm of the White Wolf”. While the wolf reference remains something of a

mystery, the white part certainly is not. Architecturally and design wise, the property is notable for the series of white barn-like

structures that make up the common areas and guest cottages. The goal was to build structures that embodied openness,

nature, peace and reflection. The ground floor of each structure is clad in a continuous glass band, so as to be fully visually

exposed to the undulating topography and surrounding nature. Cleverly connected pathways allow for walking meditations

when moving from one area of the property to another, and in addition to the dining room, treatment rooms, yoga salon and

guest cottages, residents can take a dip in the retreat’s saltwater pool. Quinta do Lobo Branco truly offers a deeply authentic

holistic experience amidst a stunning setting and forward thinking design aesthetic. ALEX BENASULI

www.quintadolobobranco.pt


AJMAN

THE OBEROI BEACH RESORT, AL ZORAH

An eco-resort in the desert climes of Arabia? Stranger things have happened. And with the strength of the Oberoi brand behind

it, this newest hospitality retreat, located in the coastal marshlands of one of the UAE’s tiniest emirates and slated to open in

the first quarter of 2017, looks set to pack nature’s punch. A 30-minute drive from Dubai International Airport, the 100-hectare

property boasts 113 villas and suites with private balconies and pools, saltwater lagoons, mangroves for kayaking and a luxe

spa, the architecture of which harkens back to ancient Madīnah in its traditional hammam facilities.

Home to 60 species of birds, the resort promises a haven for would-be ornithologists, while those who like their birdies

closer to the ground can take a swing on the greens at the resort’s championship golf course.

All rooms and suites are designed to minimize the hotel’s carbon footprint, making use of natural light for illumination and

temperature-controls that reduce energy loss. Guests can make use of the hotel’s unique Oberoi E’nhance iPad interface to

oversee everything from in-room dining to entertainment bookings, with the hotel’s signature restaurant seemingly floating

over a glass island, serving an array of international cuisine and gastronomic delights, against a backdrop of coral reefs and

fish nurseries that will have you longing to get back to nature. ASHLEE STARRATT

www.oberoihotels.com

24

PALMA DE MALLORCA

SANT FRANCESC HOTEL SINGULAR

Until not so long ago, visitors to Mallorca had to choose between staying in the middle of the historic city center, or basing

themselves in a five-star hotel on the periphery to enjoy the facilities of a deluxe resort. But as aristocratic Spanish families

moved out of the center - relocating to their grand country estates and downsizing their city pads - savvy hoteliers moved in,

refurbishing, restoring and instilling new life into grand properties, giving many more accommodation options to visitors who

enjoy the historic bones and year-round buzz of Palma. Set in a 16 th -century palace, Palacio Ca Sa Galesa which opened in

1993 was one of the first, with just a dozen rooms. Since then it has been joined by a couple of dozen more privately owned

and individually designed bijou hotels. One of the newest is Sant Francesc Hotel Singular, a rather smart 42-bedroom hotel,

positioned on a small square dominated by the Basílica de Sant Francesc in the centre of Palma, with an abundance of shops,

cafés and restaurants nearby, and the city's magnificent sea-facing Cathedral just five minutes walk away.

Formerly the home of a showy Mallorquin noble family until the established Barcelona Soldevila hotelier family bought it,

many original features of the 1880 building were skillfully preserved in the conversion process, including the gorgeous main

staircase. The Baroque façade was lovingly restored, the cobbled inner courtyard returned to its former glory, and the lobby -

once an entrance for horse-drawn carriages - is now a soaring space with pale Santanyí stone pillars and beautifully preserved

geometric moldings. The resulting hotel is packed with historic features coupled with modern day amenities, with pale natural

hues gently contrasting with the charcoal and chocolate tones, giving the interior a contemporary, urban feel. The hotel's 42

rooms and suites - all crisp lines and cool shades of gray - range from 25 to 60m 2 , are all different, and most have oversized

walk-in showers or deep freestanding tubs.

Up on the roof, a small pool is surrounded by artfully landscaped terraces, and sun worshippers are treated to dramatic

vistas of the spectacular Cathedral to one side and the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range to the other, which forms the

northern backbone of the Spanish island. Whilst the plentiful attractions and eateries of Palma are literally on your doorstep

when staying at Sant Francesc Hotel Singular, not to be missed is dinner at Quadrat, the hotel's excellent onsite restaurant set

in the former stables, which serves modern Mediterranean cuisine, with dishes such as turbot with fennel cream featuring on

the interesting menu. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.hotelsantfrancesc.com


HOTEL BÖ

Set in a stunningly lush high plateau,

surrounded by mountains, San Cristobal de

las Casas is the bohemian and rather

charming colonial main city of the

southeastern Mexican frontier province of

Chiapas. To this day the region remains

largely unspoiled, full of cobble stone

streets, local markets and plenty of

centuries-old churches and houses. The

old town has a festive and cosmopolitan

atmosphere, filled with bars, restaurants,

art galleries and boutiques selling local

crafts. Indigenous villages and beautiful

countryside, where the local way of life

reigns supreme, surround the city. Many

tourists visit San Cristobal as a jumping off

point to the impressive Mayan ruins of

Palenque which date back over 2,000

years. The vibrancy, colour and magical

energy of the entire region are all reflected

in San Cristobal.

Located in the centre of San Cristobal

and a veritable oasis amidst the hustle and

bustle of local life, Hotel bö is a welcome

addition to an area known more as a

destination for backpackers and aid workers

than discerning international travellers.

Offering 22 stylish rooms and suites -

some with private patio gardens, roof

terraces and fireplaces - clean lines and

unfussy design are enhanced by colourful

interior accents, local artisan-crafted

furnishings and carefully considered

landscaping. The result is a cozy and

comfortable environment that reflects

nature, the spirit world of the

pre-conquistador era as well as the area’s

historic past. At Hotel bö, tradition and

modernity have been successfully blended

seamlessly, its interior and exterior design

effectively capturing the best of what the

region has to offer. LUM, the hotel’s onsite

restaurant and bar, is a social hub that

serves local and fusion dishes made using

local ingredients. There is also a small gym

and a library. Attention intrepid travellers:

this is a special hotel in a special place that

is just coming into tourists’ radar!

ALEX BENASULI

www.hotelbo.mx

28

SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS

ANGUILLA

30

ZEMI BEACH HOUSE

RESORT & SPA

Owned and developed by New York's Goldstein

Family Partnership and located on Shoal Bay

East, one of Anguilla’s best beaches, Zemi

Beach House was the first resort to open in

East End, known for its white powdery sands,

exclusive private villas and beach bars, and the

first new-build resort to open on the island in

more than half a decade. Developed as a mix

of 50 hotel rooms and roughly the same

number of luxe residences, to meet the high

demand by celebrities and the global jet-set

community wishing to hide from the spotlight

and escape the routine of everyday life in

relatively unpretentious Anguilla, this

one-of-a-kind resort was designed by

internationally renowned Caribbean architect,

Lane Pettigrew, to mirror the transcendent

nature of the island, with the opportunity for

guests to renew, reflect and evolve through

meaningful encounters at Zemi Beach House.

The resort's architecture was inspired by

Anguilla’s natural environment, blending

modern, clean lines with classic Caribbean

detailing. Guest rooms all feature private

balconies or terraces with views of the

surrounding crystalline waters. The interiors of

the public spaces were created by

Miami-based interior designer Cuba

Fernandez. A dramatic oceanfront pool is glass

panelled on the side which faces the beach. At

the epicentre of the resort is Zemi Thai House

Spa, the property's serene crown jewel, housed

within an authentic 300 year-old Thai house

that was transported to Anguilla in the 1980s,

and lovingly restored to offer an intense

wellness experience via 15,000ft 2 of indoor

and outdoor space, including the island’s first

co-ed ‘House of Wellbeing’ and Anguilla’s only

hammam with a heated göbek taşı at its core,

plus a sun deck for mud and salt body

treatments, meditation garden, outdoor

showers and a vitality pool. Central to the spa

is the Taíno Bathing Ritual, which offers guests

the opportunity to journey through different

temperature changes using ancient plants and

herbs used for hundreds of years by Anguilla’s

native Taíno Indians.


www.zemibeach.com

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KAPLANKAYA

CANYON RANCH WELLNESS RESORT AT KAPLANKAYA

Renowned American wellness brand, Canyon Ranch, has unveiled its first international property, off south western Turkey’s

Aegean coastline, with a 141-room property that brings a new level of holistic luxury to the Turkish Riviera.

Situated on a peninsular outcrop, some 50 miles up the coast from the summer resort mecca of Bodrum, the Canyon Ranch

Wellness Resort at Kaplankaya (to give the retreat its full name!) boasts a 107,500ft 2 wellness centre and spa that offers

integrated mind and body treatments tailored towards the discerning guest. Here, Eastern medicine is balanced with an

appreciation for fitness, while a creative menu that highlights the best a Mediterranean diet has to offer, promises an all-round

healthy and healing experience in the lap of luxury.

The region’s rich history is only a couple hours’ drive away, and, with the hotel operating year-round, day-trips and

sightseeing excursions to landmarks such as the ancient city of Ephesus can be easily organised.

Guests can choose at their leisure from Canyon Ranch’s unique Focused Stay packages, tailored toward healthful goals such

as smoking cessation, weight loss, or pre or post-operative retreats. With unparalleled facilities and the beauty of its natural

surroundings – there are three bays, each with its own private beach – this secluded sanctuary will easily recharge and

re-nourish the souls of even the most depleted and weary of travellers. ASHLEE STARRATT

www.canyonranch.com


THE RITZ, PARIS

The City of Lights has long been one of Europe’s most

quintessential hubs of culture and bastions of resilience,

with its most iconic landmarks weathering the storms of

revolution across the centuries – though sometimes, not

without a bit of a face-lift. As one of its most renowned

hotels re-opens its doors after a four-year, USD 450 million

renovation, The Cultured Traveller asks how

turn-of-the-century luxury can stand the test of time after

118 years at The Ritz, Paris.

Situated in Paris’ historic First Arrondissement, at the

Place Vendôme, site of Louis XIV’s coterie of 17 th century

palaces, the recently re-opened Ritz espouses all the

old-world glamour of the hotel’s glory days, when Europe’s

intelligentsia and aristocracy would frequent its gilded

environs. Now, its Prestige Suites ensconced in marble and

gold, the property still evokes the weight of history with

cleverly hidden modern touches…. TV’s are embedded in

antique mirrors, golden swan-neck faucets have been

installed in the en-suites, and maid and butler bells dangle

on velveteen ropes. Ritz Paris’s owner, Mohammed Al Fayed

and his team, have successfully and seamlessly incorporated

les nouveaux elements while maintaining the timeless

34

PARIS

integrity of the hotel’s opulence.

Make your way down the Gallery of the Ritz Paris - the

architectural marvel connecting the Place Vendôme with the

Rue Cambon - with its collection of exquisite boutiques and

95 showcases of fashion and art. Sip your way through a gin

martini or gimlet at the hotel’s Bar Hemingway – a

gentleman’s lodge in tribute to the hotel’s most famous

auteur. Wood-paneled and warm, it’s here where the likes of

Cole Porter, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Hemingway himself came

to drink, muse and set the world to rights.

The Paris Ritz has also newly-partnered with that other

most iconoclastic of French brands, the house of Chanel, in

establishing its CHANEL au Ritz Paris spa – a sumptuous

retreat that blends five-star wellness with one of the world’s

leading names in luxury skincare.

Culinary highlight of the revamped Ritz, is chef Nicolas

Sale’s gastronomic journey of L’Espadon, where guests can

indulge in four unique experiences of French nouvelle

cuisine to please even the most seasoned palate. Next time

we find ourselves in Paris, The Cultured Traveller will most

certainly be Puttin’ on the Ritz. ASHLEE STARRATT

www.ritzparis.com

WIN A TWO NIGHT STAY IN THE SPECTACU

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at The Terrace Bar, Wi-Fi and a 2pm lazy checkout on day three.

10 minutes by taxi from the world's busiest airport and an oasis of peace in the

pulsating Emirati metropolis, Park Hyatt Dubai is located at the marina and golf course

of Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club, and only a few minutes away from City Centre Mall,

plus Deira and Bur Dubai’s historic sights and souks. Exotic and alluring, Park Hyatt

Dubai successfully combines Moroccan, Mediterranean and Arabian influences in an

enchanting setting that instills calmness in hotel guests as soon as they check-in.

The resort's 223 plush rooms, including 34 suites, offer wonderful views of the

creek and marina, and are decorated in shades of cream, ivory and pearl, with subtle

Arabic detailing including patterned carpets and screens, a nod to Dubai’s history.

Park Hyatt Dubai is home to an inspired array of award-winning restaurants &

lounges, including The Thai Kitchen with multiple live cooking stations, buzzy

atmosphere and authentic northeastern Thai cuisine. Also worth visiting are the

hotel's signature French restaurant Traiteur, Café Arabesque, and The Terrace Bar,

which is one of the best places in the city for weekend sundowners.

For vacationing guests, take a ride on Seawings seaplane and get a bird's eye

views of the city, have a round of golf on the 18-hole par-71 championship course,

be preened and pampered at the hotel's luxury Amara Spa, or relax by the serene

25-metre swimming pool surrounded by shady palms. One of the few hotels in

Dubai without an on-site nightclub, makes Park Hyatt Dubai the choice of the city's

more discerning and discreet clientele.

WWW.DUBAI.PARK.HYATT.COM • FACEBOOK.COM/PARKHYATTDUBAI • INSTAGRAM.COM/PARKHYATTDUBAI

To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city

email and mobile number) to WIN@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM

Prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw will take

place on 30 November 2016 and the winner will be notified first week of December 2016. This prize can be

used until 1 st August 2017, subject to availability of the Royal Suite at Park Hyatt Dubai. Rest assured that The

Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties.

36

PRIZE DRAW

LAR ROYAL SUITE AT PARK HYATT DUBAI

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ROYAL SUITE

EVERY NIGHT IS DATE NIGHT

AT HILTON LUXOR RESORT & SPA.

Escape to the banks of the Nile at the exquisite Hilton Luxor Resort & Spa, 20

minutes from Luxor International Airport.

Located 10 minutes from Luxor town centre, this stylish spa resort is the ideal base

to explore the region’s historic attractions like the Temple of Karnak, two minutes

away.

Expect outstanding service from attentive multilingual Hilton Team Members.

For room reservations please visit hilton.com or call +20 95 237 4933

P.O. Box 13 | Luxor | Egypt

©2014 Hilton Worldwide

MANHATTAN

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU JOURNEYS BACK TO NEW YORK CITY’S MANHATTAN

ISLAND AFTER A DECADE-LONG ABSENCE AND DISCOVERS A REBORN

METROPOLIS BURSTING WITH NEW ENERGY, ARCHITECTURE AND CREATIVITY

W

here in

the world can you get into an Uber

executive car and be greeted by a

sixty-something granny in an above-the-knee

white, crocheted Jil

Sander dress, hair in rollers, behind the

wheel of a shiny, jet black Mercedes E-Class? Yabbering

incessantly between my hotel and the restaurant I was

headed to for dinner, she entertained to such an extent that,

upon reaching our destination, I would have preferred to stay

in the car and listen to her carry on. Only in New York can this

sort of eccentric behaviour befall a tourist to the city, and I

took this as a very clear indication - on my first night back in

the Big Apple after a decade - that the island of Manhattan

was well and truly back from the brink, in its inimitable,

spirited and wacky tip-top form.

It's difficult to talk about visiting NYC and not mention –

or at the very least acknowledge – the unprecedented


QUEENSBORO BRIDGE

Some fifteen years after 9/11, I'm pleased to

report that whilst New York is a city that still very

much remembers its fallen, Manhattan appears to

have fully recovered its pizzazz, energy and drive

tragedy that befell Manhattan island on 11 th September

2001, which understandably knocked the entire metropolis

and its inhabitants off-kilter, punched a giant emotional and

physical crater in the city's very heart, and changed the

world as we knew it forever. Quite apart from the thousands

of New Yorkers who lost their lives on that dreadful Tuesday

morning, workers continued to remove debris and recover

bodies from the ruins of the Twin Towers at Lower

Manhattan’s former World Trade Center complex for nearly a

year, further deepening the city's scars and prolonging the

agony. Intense debate then raged over how best to rebuild,

as well as how to properly and sensitively memorialise the

victims. Political struggles, financial problems and legal

squabbles ensued among the various parties involved,

leading to repeated and much publicised delays in the

reconstruction efforts.

It wasn’t until 11 th September 2011 that the 9/11 Memorial

was dedicated, a decade after the terrorist attacks. Many New

Yorkers voiced then that the city didn't begin to start the

healing process until the morning when “Reflecting Absence”

– the 9/11 Memorial – was dedicated, and the names of the

2,982 people killed inscribed on the surrounding bronze

parapets.

I was a regular visitor to New York before 9/11, usually

jetting-in two or three times a year, sometimes for only 48

hours of riotous partying or frantic shopping. But after 9/11 I

kept my distance. I can't exactly explain why. For one, many

of my New Yorker friends moved away in the following

months and years, mostly to the West Coast, so I had fewer

reasons to visit. Also it took the international travelling public


TIMES SQUARE

at large many years to get over the shock of what had

transpired, and unless they had to visit New York on business,

many chose to investigate some of America's other great

cities instead. After 9/11, San Francisco benefitted from a

marked increase in visitor numbers from Europe, the Middle

East and Asia Pacific, as did LA, Miami and Boston.

Holiday-makers still very much wanted to visit American

cities, but many avoided the Big Apple because they were

unsure as of what to expect in the aftermath of catastrophe

and such huge loss of life. I was one of these people, and

hence travelled to other international cities to get my fix of

buzzing city breaks. America lost a massive amount of tourist

revenue after 9/11, and the overall economic effect on New

York, by so many travellers staying away, was disastrous for

numerous businesses that were dependent on overseas

visitors. But some fifteen years after 9/11, I'm pleased to

report that whilst New York is a city that still very much

remembers its fallen, Manhattan appears to have fully

recovered its pizzazz, energy and drive. Some would say that

it never lost it, except for the period immediately after 9/11.

But the New Yorkers I knew who lived in the city pre-9/11,

and who moved away after that fateful morning, are now

moving back in droves, and this has got to be as good a sign

as any that Manhattan is back.

If you have the option of catching a flight to the States that

includes US pre-clearance in your country of origin – take it –

since even those lucky enough to cross the Atlantic in premium

cabins are usually obliged to queue for an hour or more to clear

immigration at JFK. In my case, despite flying Club World from

Hyatt®, Park Hyatt® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation or its affiliates. ©2016 Hyatt. All rights reserved

EXPERIENCE UNPARALLELED LUXURY AT PARK HYATT DUBAI

Located in Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht club on the banks of the magnificient

Dubai Creek, Park Hyatt Dubai provides an idyllic setting for a luxury getaway.

Nestled in the heart of city, ten minutes from Dubai International Airport, Gold

Souk, Dubai Museum and Burj Khalifa.

To make a reservation contact +971 4 602 1234 or visit dubai.park.hyatt.com

Heathrow, I had to stand in a

slow-moving single file queue for 70

minutes in the British Airways Terminal

at JFK, cooled by little more than a few

rotary fans in the height of summer. It

wasn’t glamorous or fun, although I

should count myself lucky, because on

one day last year, BA passengers stood

for 138 minutes to clear the same queue.

These kinds of waits are neither an

exciting start to a much-anticipated

weekend in the city that never sleeps,

nor a worthy use of time for those

visiting Manhattan for just a few nights.

Recently there has even been concern in

the White House at the poor impression

visitors to the US get of the country on

their arrival, at a time when tourism is

playing an increasingly important role in

the American economy – especially in

New York.

CENTRAL PARK

Avoid pre-booking an overpriced hotel

limo to fling you along the Long Island

Expressway, past the gigantic billboards

promising eternal youth and beauty,

whisk you across the Queensboro

Bridge, and present you with the skyline

of one of the greatest cities in the

world. A five-star hotel will charge you

upwards of USD 150 for the 45-minute

drive. A Carmel car costing USD 50 will

do the same job just as well, and save

you a hundred bucks to spend on a

round of Manhattans when you reach

your hotel. J.P. Morgan used to sip on a

Manhattan at the close of each trading

day - it's that kind of drink, and the

perfect first sup on checking into your

New York lodgings

(www.carmellimo.com).

My digs for the weekend were a

delightful, homely corner suite, at

Robert De Niro’s outstanding 88-room

Greenwich Hotel, in which no two

rooms are the same. Built to seamlessly

blend in with the classic façades of hip

TriBeCa, and managed by supremely

seasoned hotelier, Philip Truelove, the

Greenwich is one very special property

in a superb location, just five minutes’

SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM


walk to the downtown Financial District and World Trade

Center Plaza, and a 10-minute cab ride to Midtown. You won’t

want to leave after a few nights spent in the warm,

family-like environment of the Greenwich. If only there were

more hotels like it on the planet (read more here).

Due to the increase of retail globalisation, online shopping

and international currency equalisation by most of the big

brands, spending in the Big Apple isn't the shopping trolley of

bargains it used to be. It’s always been fun to shop in

Manhattan and that hasn’t changed, and if anything there are

more independent boutiques and designer stores to chose

from than ever before (the new Barneys Downtown is not to

be missed). But don’t make a special trip to New York to score

an Apple computer for instance – you’ll find the price

differential is 5%-10% max, which is hardly worth the hassle

of carrying it back!

Since Giuliani’s administration slowly but methodically

strangled New York’s nightlife industry – in the process

closing pretty much all of the city’s legendary clubs (gone

are Twilo, The Roxy, Tunnel and The Limelight) – the

landscape of Manhattan’s nighttime scene has changed

considerably. The disappearance of the gritty, mega dance

clubs of old, has given rise to a new kind of venue that’s

more authentic, personal and friendlier, with some happy to

call Brooklyn home. Brooklyn’s Output club – armed with a

seriously dirty Funktion One sound system – draws a hip

crowd more interested in Calvin Harris than Kanye West, and

is notable for the lack of velvet ropes, although you’ll still

42 44 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

need to arrive well before midnight to avoid queuing

(www.outputclub.com). For those of you looking for a VIP

experience, Manhattan’s club scene still reigns supreme at

places like Provocateur, with prime positioning in the

club-concentrated Meatpacking District. Here you can just

as easily groove the night away, as spend the evening

gawking at models, actors and trust fund babies if that’s

your thang (www.provocateurny.com). For one of

Manhattan’s best parties, pitch up at the Sunday night

dance party in the grand ballroom of The Jane. Now home to

one of the hottest parties in town, this historic hotel used to

be a haven for sailors looking for a place to rest their weary

heads. Nowadays very little rest takes place at The Jane on

the weekends, as it swings open its doors for the party of

the week (www.thejanenyc.com).

If I had to count on one hand the new sites in Manhattan

which best embody the city’s rejuvenation, they would be the

Highline, the new Whitney, the 9/11 Memorial, One World

Trade Center, and Calatrava’s spectacular World Trade Center

Transport Hub. Retail therapy and eating-out aside, these are

all must-see places for any tourist visiting Manhattan, and

most of them are within easiest reach of TriBeCa.

As New York architecture icons go, the USD 2.6 billion

1,776 feet tall One World Trade Center may not be a historical

patch on the Empire State or Chrysler buildings, but the

towering, tallest new skyscraper in the Western Hemisphere is

a symbol of the re-emergence of NYC as a cloud-skimming,

world-dominating megatropolis and, for this reason, its

topping-out on Friday 10 th May 2013 heralded the

renaissance of downtown Manhattan and the city’s rebirth.

Hyatt®, Park Hyatt® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation or its affiliates. ©2016 Hyatt. All rights reserved

EXPERIENCE UNPARALLELED LUXURY AT PARK HYATT DUBAI

Located in Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht club on the banks of the magnificient

Dubai Creek, Park Hyatt Dubai provides an idyllic setting for a luxury getaway.

Nestled in the heart of city, ten minutes from Dubai International Airport, Gold

Souk, Dubai Museum and Burj Khalifa.

To make a reservation contact +971 4 602 1234 or visit dubai.park.hyatt.com

Riding to the top in under 60 seconds is

an immersive and educational

experience, surrounded by

floor-to-ceiling LED screens charting

the evolution of NYC

(www.oneworldobservatory.com).

Michael Arad and Peter Walker's

inspired 9/11 memorial, of two large

cascading waterfalls and reflecting

pools, set within the footprints of the

former Twin Towers – surrounded by a

grove of 400 oak trees and interspersed

with slivers of lawn – are a thing of

breathtaking beauty and reflection, and

aptly memorialise in perpetuity the loss

of almost 3,000 lives that day. A visit to

the memorial is a must; its silencing

effect a welcome moment of stillness

and calm – not to mention

thought-provoking – during any visit to

NYC

(www.911memorial.org/memorial). On

the other hand, the 9/11 Museum is a

deeply emotional underworld, beneath

what was formerly Ground Zero, and

one into which only the steely should

venture. Recovered firefighters'

uniforms, a crushed fire engine,

scorched car doors, victims’ last

voicemails, charred toys and the

hallowed 'last column' to be removed

from the Twin Towers site, have all

been elevated into art objects. They

include two giant tridents, salvaged

from the wreckage, which form the

centrepiece of the museum pavilion.

Even a gift shop has been added,

infuriating many families of the victims

by the somewhat crass commercialism.

Whatever your viewpoint about the

presence of a gift shop on a virtually

sacred site, clearly an untold amount of

passion, energy and love has gone into

the creation of every exhibit at this

fascinating, yet arresting museum. But

whilst worth visiting for some – even if

only to obtain closure – it was a little bit

too much for me

(www.911memorial.org/museum).

Founded in 1930 by sculptor and

collector Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney,

A visit to the 9/11

memorial is a must; its

silencing effect a welcome

moment of stillness and

calm – not to mention

thought-provoking –

during any visit to NYC

9/11 MESEUM

9/11 MEMORIAL


The High Line has become one of the top

visitor attractions in New York – more popular

even than the Statue of Liberty – and a shining

beacon of the reversal in the historical decline

of American cities in general

STATUE OF LIBERTY

the Whitney museum got its start when NYC’s Metropolitan

Museum of Art turned down her offer of 500 pieces, so she

started her own. But as her collection grew, so did the

museum, outgrowing several homes. By moving downtown

from Madison Avenue, the new Whitney does more than drop

anchor at the High Line’s base. This is the Whitney’s fourth

home, and the move confirms a definitive shift in the city’s

social geography and, more importantly, the affirmation of

downtown Manhattan as a cultural hub. The sprawling new

USD 422 million Whitney building – which opened on 1 st May

this year and was designed by Renzo Piano, architect of

London’s Shard – does something a NYC museum has never

done before…it allows the city to pour in, and positively

encourages visitors to venture outside and be part of

Manhattan. In this way, the new Whitney is an architectural

triumph – its grand, column-less, rectangular galleries

spilling onto large, stepped terraces, all linked by outdoor

stairs, making the museum an extension of the High Line –

an outdoor place to see and be seen – and an inherent part of

the reborn, inviting, and open Manhattan. Light, bright and

airy, it’s inclusive rather than exclusive (www.whitney.org).

Some seven years after the first sections opened, the High

Line has become one of the top visitor attractions in New York

– more popular even than the Statue of Liberty – and a

shining beacon of the reversal in the historical decline of

American cities in general. Originally constructed on

Manhattan’s far west side because freight trains and

pedestrians kept colliding down on 10 th Avenue, the former

elevated 1930s railroad which used to carry the West Side

Line, now serves up the Big Apple on a 1.45-mile-long

42 48 The Cultured Traveller October/November 2016

Calatrava’s jaw-dropping World Trade Center

Transportation Hub, known as the Oculus, is

the final piece in Manhattan’s rebirth jigsaw,

and epitomises the vitality and new social

and physical architecture of the city

WORLD TRADE CENTER TRANSPORTATION HUB

viewing platform 30 feet off the ground. The planting of this

urban, linear park is what gives the High Line its real spirit –

the wild, textured, and rugged botanicals giving it an utterly

unique interior character – artistically driven but naturally

rooted. It’s a delightful place to walk, talk, eat, sit, amble, or

even sunbathe. Be sure to walk the entire High Line, take your

time, and don’t miss the small, squared-off amphitheatre

whose stage is a glass viewing wall down to 10 th Avenue.

Parts of the walk are intensely voyeuristic, as you pass the

windows of high-rise offices, apartments and new fancy

condos rising in close proximity. It’s best to start at West 34 th

Street and walk the High Line to Gansevoort Street by the new

Whitney (www.thehighline.org).

Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava’s jaw-dropping World

Trade Center Transportation Hub, known as the Oculus, is the

final piece in Manhattan’s rebirth jigsaw, and epitomises the

vitality and new social and physical architecture of the city.

Manhattan is now - more than ever - a city of culture and

creativity, and nowhere is this more evident than in the USD 4

billion train station which sits right next to One World Trade

Center, at the heart of its plaza, the place where New York City

changed forever. Regardless of the enormous cost, this

breathtaking, pristine, white, church-like space of soaring

ceilings, glass and marble is a beautiful sight to behold, its

wing-like rib structure designed to resemble a bird taking

flight. In so many ways the Oculus is the embodiment of the

new Manhattan – a city rejuvenated, reinvented and ready to

soar once again amongst the world’s greatest cities, a phoenix

rising resiliently from the ashes of ground zero, and well worth

us all rediscovering that New York’s heart is still beating.

42

STAY

THE GREENWICH HOTEL

A truly gorgeous part of Lower Manhattan - that's an upscale mix of glorious old

cast-iron loft buildings, wide cobblestone streets and dramatic new construction -

thirty years ago TriBeCa was the domain of bohemian artists and squatters who

helped to develop and establish the area. Now one of the most desirable parts of NYC

and known globally for its film festival, the "Triangle Below Canal Street" is considered

by many to be one of the best neighbourhoods in the city, easily as hip as SoHo but

without the congestion. Enjoying minuscule crime levels, great schools, tons of

transit, well-planned waterfront access, and light-filled loft-type apartments in

painstakingly renovated industrial buildings, it has already overtaken the Upper East

Side as the city’s richest precinct, is prohibitively expensive, and any traces of racial

and income diversity are long gone. But despite the changes, TriBeCa maintains the

sophisticated and creative vibe it acquired as an artists' mecca in the 70s, thanks to

the wealth of cultural and architectural heritage which prevails today, via an

abundance of artist studios, immersive installations and world-class galleries,

together with building gems, premium dining experiences and independently-owned

boutiques.

Situated at the epicentre of this serene slice of urban jungle - on cobblestoned

Greenwich Street, a block away from the Hudson River - is The Greenwich Hotel,

Robert De Niro's chic, individually styled 88-room design hotel, encased in a classic,

unassuming exterior of hand-moulded brick. If ever there was a hotel in which

everything was hand-picked, carefully chosen and lovingly arranged, this is it.

From the moment you enter the hotel's understated portals, you're transported into

a refined and calm home-away-from-home retreat, in the shadow of one of the

world's busiest financial centers, although you'd never know it when inside. The

calming effect is truly overwhelming, beginning from the friendly staff on first name

terms who work as a team and behave like a family, through to the warm and

welcoming rooms and suites - none of which are alike - laden with books, ornaments,

artwork, traditional settees and comfy armchairs. The eclectic style is Morocco meets

the tropics, with European and Oriental elements thrown in for good measure, all to

excellent effect, although not too arty or full of itself. The result is supremely original

and so god damn comfortable you'd wish the hotel was located in a less exciting city,

so you could spend more time in your room enjoying the utter comfort and delicious

surroundings.

The Greenwich’s calming pièce de résistance, is the hotel’s large subterranean pool,

set beneath a 250-year-old bamboo roof of reclaimed wood, painstakingly

reconstructed - nail-free - by Japanese craftsmen. Together with the adjoining

treatment rooms, the tranquil pool, baths and Shibui Spa are a very rare find in

spatially challenged TriBeCa.

After a two-night stay in a luxuriously kitted out 900ft 2 one-bedroom corner suite,

complete with Bose sound system, complimentary mini-bar, spacious sitting area,

dining table for four (set in one of the building’s semi-circular windows, with views of

the Hudson), and a magnificent bathroom of hand-laid mosaic tiling and Italian

Carrara marble, I decided I wanted to stay on a few more nights, whatever the cost.

But such is the popularity of the Greenwich (mostly with repeat guests, completely

understandably) that sadly I had to leave. I can’t remember the last time I was so

miserable to check out of a hotel. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

www.thegreenwichhotel.com


SEE

EMPIRE STATE BUILDING

Located in the heart of Midtown

Manhattan, the tallest building in the world

from 1931 to 1971 is the ancestor of all

skyscrapers and makes a lasting

impression in the minds of all who have

stood beneath or atop this architectural

icon. Perhaps the most impressive of the

building's accolades is that it took less

than 14 months to construct, an

unimaginable timeline for a building of a

similar height today. Visiting the Empire

State is much more than just a view:

following recent improvements, guests

embark on a journey through and up one

of the world's most famous landmarks,

including the stunning Art Deco lobby and

murals and historical Dare to Dream

exhibit, and take in New York's most

breathtaking views from its 86 th and 102 nd

floor observatories, providing unforgettable

360° views of New York City. VIP express

packages are also available, which include

skipping the lines and priority access

throughout. www.esbnyc.com


One of just two Frank Lloyd Wright

commissions in Manhattan, New York's

Guggenheim is as famous for its landmark

building - which was restored for its 50 th

birthday in 2009 - as it is for its impressive

collection and daring temporary art shows.

The museum owns Peggy Guggenheim’s

trove of cubist, surrealist and abstract

expressionist works, along with the Panza

di Biumo Collection of American minimalist

and conceptual art from the ’60s and ’70s.

In addition to works by Manet, Picasso,

Chagall, Miró and Bourgeois, the

Guggenheim holds the largest collection of

Kandinskys in the States. The museum’s

layout is like no other, as visitors

experience the artwork whilst walking

down a gently sloping ramp that spirals

around the entire interior of the cylindrical

building. Take the lift to the top and amble

downwards at your leisure.

www.guggenheim.org


STATUE OF LIBERTY

Quite possibly the most famous statue in

the world, if you've never visited Lady

Liberty you've got to do it at least once!

Made in Paris by the French sculptor

Bartholdi, in collaboration with Gustave

Eiffel (who was responsible for the steel

framework), this towering monument to

freedom was a gift from France on the

centenary of America’s independence.

Inaugurated in 1886, the colossal copper

sculpture stands at the entrance to New

York Harbour and has welcomed millions of

visitors to the United States ever since.

Ferry tickets include access to the

museum and the balcony located at the

top of the statue's pedestal. For an extra

three bucks you can climb the 162 narrow

steps to the crown, and look out the

twenty-four windows towards New York

Harbour. But beware touts and only buy

your tickets in advance at

www.statuecruises.com/statue-liberty-and

-ellis-island-tickets

EMPIRE STATE BUILDING

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

Since it was founded in 1929 as an

educational institution, MoMA has been

dedicated to being the foremost museum

of modern art in the world. The rich and

varied collection constitutes one of the

most comprehensive and panoramic views

into modern art in the world today. From

an initial gift of eight prints and one

drawing, MoMA's mammoth collection has

grown to include over 150k paintings,

sculptures, drawings, prints, photographs,

architectural models, drawings and design

objects. You could spend a day getting lost

in the MoMA's permanent exhibits, which

showcase all manner of priceless pieces by

renowned artists. But just as essential are

the museum's other elements, including a

cinema that combines art-house fare and

more accessible offerings, top-notch

MoMA Design Store, a sculpture garden

with works by Picasso and Rodin, plus the

Modern - a high-end restaurant and bar

run by Danny Meyer. Be sure to catch Van

Gogh's Starry Night, acquired by MoMA in

1941. www.moma.org

CENTRAL PARK

Arguably one of the most famous urban

parks in the world, middle-upper

Manhattan's 843-acre Central Park is a

manmade wonder visited by more than

40 million people each year, but sadly

often overlooked by tourists. Don't! Even

if you just stroll through the park from

East to West, you will marvel at the

gorgeous grounds containing nearly 50

fountains, countless monuments and

sculptures, and some three-dozen

bridges and arches. Central Park not

only serves as a safe haven for athletes,

daydreamers, musicians and walkers,

but also for teems of migratory birds

each year. The park also boasts several

lakes, theaters, ice rinks, fountains,

tennis courts, baseball fields, numerous

playgrounds and other facilities.

Especially during the weekends, when

cars are not allowed into the park,

Central Park is a welcome oasis in the

middle of the hectic city.

www.centralparknyc.org

NEUE GALERIE

The brainchild of two friends with a

shared passion - art dealer Serge

Sabarsky and philanthropist Ronald S.

Lauder - this lesser known two-floor

Upper East Side gallery - just a few

blocks from the Guggenheim - opened

in 2001 to exhibit early 20 th century

German and Austrian art and design,

and offers a welcome (if somewhat

smaller scale) alternative to New York's

bigger and much busier museums.

Neue Galerie owns a large collection of

paintings by Gustav Glimt, the Austrian

Expressionist artist whose brilliant,

jeweled-toned and patterned paintings

came to define the Art Nouveau

movement. The gallery's collection

includes Klimt’s famous Portrait of

Adele Bloch-Bauer, also known as the

‘Woman in Gold’, the dazzling gold

Secessionist-era painting which

Lauder, co-founder of Neue Galerie,

purchased in 2006 for USD 135 million.

www.neuegalerie.org

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART


“NOT JUST A THEATRE VENUE AND MUCH MORE THAN A CLUB”

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TASTE

AI FIORI

Located a short walk up the sweeping grand

staircase of Langham Place hotel on Fifth

Avenue, Michelin-starred Ai Fiori's ambiance

is elegant and restrained yet welcoming and

comfortable, the restaurant's striking floral

arrangements and refined décor positively

embracing you from the moment you arrive,

and the long bar beckoning you to sit and sip

a cocktail before making for your table.

Literally translated from Italian to 'Among the

Flowers', acclaimed chef and restaurateur

Michael White's inspired and creative menu,

is a soulful amalgamation of French

technique and Italian passion, executed with

great skill, blending traditional fare with

brave, contemporary touches to sublime

effect. Leisurely making your way through an

extravagant Ai Fiori tasting menu, for dinner,

paired with glasses selected by wine director

Raphael Ginsburg, is a gastronomic tour de

force to be relished and enjoyed. If you are to

indulge in just one Michelin-starred meal

during your time in Manhattan, ensure that

it's at Ai Fiori. www.aifiorinyc.com

MORIMOTO

The original executive chef at Nobu when it

opened in New York, Masaharu Morimoto's

eponymous establishment, on the fringes of

the meatpacking district, is quite possibly the

best Japanese restaurant in the city, skillfully

juxtaposing formality, tradition and comfort. A

low-slung understated entrance – hung with

a simple, giant red curtain – gives way to a

cutting-edge venue designed by Japanese

architect, Tadao Ando, who has sprinkled the

various rooms within the establishment with

all manner of enigmatic touches and

beautiful detailing, not least the walls and

ceilings of the main dining room covered with

sheets of rippled white plaster, giving the

space a delightfully soothing effect. A vast

selection of very fine sushi and sashimi roots

the restaurant in Japan, together with various

offerings of Kobe-style beef, but other dishes

and ingredients branch out to other parts of

Asia, and even to Europe and Latin America.

Everything The Cultured Traveller ate at

AI FIORI


Morimoto was divine, beautifully presented

and a taste bud treat. A must for aficionados

of Japanese cuisine. www.morimotonyc.com

L'AMICO

Set in a modern rustic-chic setting in the

right wing of the Eventi Hotel lobby, L'Amico

is quite simply a restaurant for people who

want to eat well. Celebrated French chef

Laurent Tourondel's Italian-influenced menu

- which is brought to life via a kitchen visible

throughout the dining room, as well as to

passersby on Sixth Avenue - appeals to the

average New Yorker, and is brimming with

dishes that people pretty much always enjoy

eating, like pasta, pizza and gelato. The

pizzas served at L'Amico - pulled from one of

two copper-clad wood-burning ovens (the

second is dedicated to firing tendrils of

octopus and Calabrian chili-seasoned

gilt-head bream) are some of the best in the

city, especially the sausage pizza with

shredded shishito peppers on top. And the

divine octopus - baked instead of grilled - is

served with crushed potatoes that might

actually be the slightly better thing on the

plate. In a city where eating-out can often be

overpriced, a meal at L'Amico is excellent

value and worth every cent. www.lamico.nyc

GILLIGAN'S

You may have to hang tight until late spring

2017 to visit this established Manhattan

summer pop-up, located in the street level

yard space of the established SoHo Grand

hotel, but it’s well worth the wait. Delivering

the feel of out East in the heart of West

Broadway, thanks to pebble beaches, tropical

plants, wood-fired grills and a distinctly

nautically theme – all a spin-off of Long

Island's Moby Dick's – SoHo Grand’s outdoor

tribute to beach, booze and pizza is a

veritable hive of excitement and fun during

the summer months, and one of the few

places in SoHo you can genuinely let your

hair down and relax without being judged by

what you’re wearing. Mixologist-created

cocktails feature refreshing and light flavours

- Gilligan’s’ special Watermelon Margaritas

being especially good - but be very careful

when ordering a pitcher! Food wise, the small

plates are great for sharing and showcase

the best ingredients from Long Island’s

farmers and fishermen, whilst for main

course the black sea bass with grilled wild

ramps is superb. www.gilligansnyc.com

MOMOSAN RAMEN & SAKE

‘Irrashimasen’ is the traditional welcome

shouted out loud by the greeter as she

seats every group of diners visiting

minimalist Japanese eatery, Momosan,

sibling of the hugely popular Morimoto in

the meatpacking district. The perfect place

to stop off in the middle of a Midtown

shopping spree, or an afternoon visiting

museums, Momosan serves tasty, fresh

dumplings, ramen and noodles in a lively

unpretentious environment, delivered to

the table by chirpy, helpful staff at

lightning speed. The ginger-topped

tetsunabe pork gyoza, served sizzling on

an iron skillet and poured over with sake,

are divine and unmissable (USD 10),

whilst the set lunch menu at 16 bucks,

including a bowl of noodles, is plenty

enough to satisfy even the most ravenous

of diners. Guests are served on a first

come first served basis, so arrive early or

late for lunch! www.momosanramen.com

MADISON & VINE

A street corner American bistro, in a

convenient Midtown Madison Avenue

location within Library Hotel, serving

typical, well-executed tasty New York fare,

served by efficient, friendly staff. Great

value for money, especially during the

week when the restaurant's champagne

happy hours from 5pm 'til 7pm attract a

hip post work crowd which takes

advantage of Laurent Perrier at 13 bucks a

glass, Moët at USD 25 and Veuve at USD

43 per bottle. The beer braised short rib

hash (USD 19), generous Norwegian

smoked salmon plate (USD 18), and Vine

Burger made with prime sirloin (USD 19)

are not to be missed on Saturday and

Sunday brunches from 11:30 'til 4pm. Not

to mention the Bloody Mary's at 12 bucks

and vodka-laced raspberry mint lemonade

(USD 19). www.libraryhotel.com

MORIMOTO

MOMOSAN RAMEN & SAKE

MADISON & VINE


DEAR IRVING

SIP

DEAR IRVING

Run by the talented team behind sophisticated Chelsea cocktail lounge The Raines Law Room, this self-proclaimed 'cocktail

parlor' is accessed by an unmarked staircase from Irving Place close to Union Square. What's inside is what new Manhattan is

all about - creativity, cocktails and class. Dear Irving's various interconnecting rooms lead you back in time - from the disco

sixties (think zebra print and vintage Playboys), into the roaring twenties (all crystal-beaded curtains and Art Deco fixtures),

through to 19 th century New York (dark wood and pressed-metal ceiling) and finally to 18 th century France complete with

chandeliers and Louis-style furnishings. With a room to suit all moods and any date, and high-quality artisan cocktails

courtesy of skilled mixologist, Meaghan Dorman, who has created new takes on old classics, this is undoubtedly one of New

York's finest drinking spots. www.dearirving.com

GALLOW GREEN

Some would say that these days in Manhattan the best shows to see happen in the city's restaurants and bars, rather than the

theatres. This is almost certainly the case at the dreamy, verging on Alice In Wonderland-esque, rooftop bar just south of Hell’s

Kitchen, called Gallow Green, accessed by a theatrical lift entrance which takes you to the top of a warehouse that operates as

The McKittrick Hotel, home of the wildly popular interactive theatre performances, Sleep No More. Positively oozing character

and eccentricity from every corner of the venue, visiting Gallow Green for the first time is like uncovering a secret, fairytale land

of drinking and socialising which is the city's best kept secret. The whole charmingly loopy place felt a lot like a large, private

garden party, lost in time, which The Cultured Traveller really didn’t want to leave. www.mckittrickhotel.com

FLATIRON LOUNGE

Set in a historic 1910 building in the heart of the Flatiron district, this classic, intimate cocktail lounge is styled in tribute to the

city's romantic by-gone era, at its centre a lovingly restored 30ft-long original 1927 Art Deco bar counter that used to live in


the legendary Manhattan Ballroom. All around it are red leather banquette booths, small mahogany tables and subdued

lighting, with plenty of dark wood and wrought ironwork lending the venue a timeless, quality vintage New York feel, and

creating the vibe of a private drinking club. Deco-inspired blue and white stained glass lights hang over the bar, where

delicious, hand-crafted drinks have been served for more than a decade, keeping guests buzzing until the wee hours.

www.flatironlounge.com

GRAND BAR & LOUNGE

Located on fashionable West Broadway in the heart of SoHo, in the middle of the upscale downtown scene, this fittingly

swanky hotel lounge and bar at the SoHo Grand, is a gorgeous merging of old world charm and contemporary-industrial style,

that channels the grandeur of New York’s 1870s gilded age and the loft living artistry and bohemians of the 1970s. All towering

columns, velvet drapes, bare brick walls and soaring vaulted ceilings, and frequented by hotel residents, fashionistas, music

and film industry types and their hangers-on, the extensive cocktail menu includes a variety of expertly prepared herb and

fruit-infused libations, plus a superb new American whiskey selection celebrating the proliferation of micro-distilleries in the

States. www.sohogrand.com

DARK HORSE COMEDY CLUB

Regularly featuring New York comedians who have appeared on some of America's most high-profile shows, including

Comedy Central and The Tonight Show, Adam Strauss' Dark Horse Comedy Club located in the heart of TriBeCa, is popular

amongst locals for its professional approach, spaciousness, full bar, extensive menu, excellent service, reasonable prices and

bloody hilarious comics. Whilst most comedy clubs treat food as an after-thought, Dark Horse is the complete opposite,

offering a wide-ranging menu of tasty dishes and delicious drinks to choose from, so you can spend a good few hours

enjoying the show and munching on a decent meal at the same time. www.darkhorsecomedyclub.com

DEATH & CO.

One of the trailblazers of New York’s neo-retro cocktail scene, there's nothing gloomy about this speakeasy-styled seminal

GALLOW GREEN

FLATIRON LOUNGE

venue, which many say was the first proper cocktail bar in Manhattan’s East Village. Hiding behind distinctive doors and

peddling a uniquely gothic vibe, the low-lit and intimate interior exudes a cool, jazzy vibe. Kerosene lanterns and crystal

chandeliers add to the atmosphere, scattering shadows up the gold-flecked walls, while the granite tables and suede

banquettes have evidently been chosen for their understated, classy look. Über-passionate and highly talented bartenders set

this NY haunt apart from its competition with their truly superb and lovingly mixed concoctions. www.deathandcompany.com

BATHTUB GIN

A red light glowing inside the Stone Street Coffee Company (and the seemingly out-of-place gaggle of people waiting to get

in) provide clues that there’s more than just coffee inside this tiny storefront. In fact it's a fake Victorian bar hidden behind a

coffee shop in Chelsea. Bathtub Gin's name may conjure Prohibition-era moonshine (naturally they have a namesake copper

bathtub prominently displayed in the center of the bar), but the drinks list was created by fresh talent on New York's cocktail

circuit - mixologist Sean Muldoon of Belfast's much lauded Merchant Hotel bar. Choose from his creations, like the West Side

(gin, sherry, St. Germain, cucumber, basil) and the Jazz Age (rum, pampelmousse rose, cherry liqueur, grapefruit). Nibble on

small plates of comfort food - such as fried oysters or pork belly sliders - while sipping on your gin cocktails.

www.bathtubginnyc.com

ROOF GARDEN BAR

Situated on the fifth floor of The Met Fifth Avenue, it's only fitting that a museum which houses some of the world's most

beautiful works of art would feature a rooftop bar that offers yet more gorgeous opportunities for gazing. The aptly named Roof

Garden Bar offers spectacular sweeping vistas of Central Park and beyond, that can be enjoyed accompanied by wine, cocktails

and light bites. It's only open when the museum is (the bar closes at 4.30pm on weekdays), is often overflowing with tourists,

and the drinks prices are on the high side, but it's worth a visit for the views of New York City's most lush greenery and

breathtaking skyline. Open until 8.15pm on Saturdays and Sundays. Best to visit on a weekday. www.metmuseum.org


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HENRI BENDEL

Founded in 1895 by a hat maker from

Louisiana, Henri Bendel department store

is arguably one of Manhattan's best, but

you'd expect nothing less from the store

responsible for bringing Coco Chanel to

the United States, and hiring Andy Warhol

as an illustrator in the 1960’s. Today Henri

Bendel has 29 stores across the country,

including its four storey boutique-like

flagship on Fifth Avenue, where you can

purchase everything from jewellery,

handbags and homewares to it's

deliciously scented candles which are a

personal fave. Whether you're shopping

for a new outfit or an uptown gift, Henri

Bendel usually has something in store for

the fashionista in us all.

www.henribendel.com

FIVESTORY

Opened less than five years ago by Claire

Distenfeld, daughter of Fred Distenfeld, a

retired exotic skin importer, if the fashion

world loves it (or thinks it's about to),

you'll probably find it at Fivestory,

occupying two-and-a-half floors of an

Upper East Side townhouse on 69 th Street.

This beautiful boutique is run by the

young female entrepreneur and her

attentive team, and the luxe setting is

perfect to browse pieces from

up-and-coming designers including

Maiyet, Ellery and Rosetta Getty, as well

as a smattering of Distenfeld-derived

python purses. Not everything is crazy

expensive, and you can usually find

original accessories and contemporary

pieces for under a few hundred bucks.

www.fivestoryny.com

STUART WEITZMAN

Stuart Weitzman has been designing

sophisticated and elegant but not overly

expensive luxury shoes in New York, since

he worked for his father’s factory in the

1960s. His brand is now truly

international, with stores all over the

globe, from its New York flagship to the


gorgeous Zaha Hadid-designed Stuart

Weitzman boutique on Milan's Via della

Spiga, opened by Kate Moss. Feed your food

fetish and browse Weitzman's latest

collection in supreme comfort, whilst being

waited on hand and foot, at 675 Fifth

Avenue. www.stuartweitzman.com

DOVER STREET MARKET

When runway renegade Rei Kawakubo

(chief executive of designer brand, Comme

des Garçons), opened her artfully designed,

seven storey, multibrand carnivalesque

fashion wonderland in 2013, occupying a

stately Beaux-Arts building on Lexington

Avenue and 30 th Street, it was instantly a

New York fashion retailing game changer.

Not only does the emporium carry Comme

and its many offshoots - including Play,

Black and Shirt - but it also showcases a

smartly edited if slightly riotous mix of other

brands, from Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton

to Simone Rocha and Rick Owens, plus

of-the-moment names like Vetements and

Hood by Air, as well as an exclusive

collection by cult veteran designer, Andre

Walker. www.doverstreetmarket.com

BARNEYS NEW YORK DOWNTOWN

The return of Barneys to Chelsea, via a

sprawling, four-floor flagship on Seventh

Avenue, at the site of the historic lifestyle

brand's original location, garnered lots of

buzz when it launched earlier this year. The

well-designed space feels warm and

inviting, is a pleasure to wander around, and

is significantly less overwhelming than the

veritable maze that is Barneys' uptown

flagship. Sporting a tight selection of

cosmetics, perfumes, men's and women's

accessories, women's shoes and

ready-to-wear, and men's shoes and

ready-to-wear, the store is connected via an

arty white spiral staircase at its core, and

there's an onsite Fred's - Barneys’ in-house

eatery - to snack, lunch or simply pause for

a glass of wine in between bursts of

spending. www.barneys.com

KITH

Located behind Atrium NYC in SoHo, at 644

Broadway and Bleeker, Ronnie Fieg’s


Manhattan outpost, Kith, has always been a

go-to place for the latest in footwear and

streetwear, and is notable because not only

does it stock some über-cool limited edition

versions of his own designs, but you can

also find covetable designs from Grenson,

Sebago, Caminando, Danner, and other

makers of quality footwear. Also on sale are

a selection of apparel brands (including

Fieg's affordable in-house label) that blur

the lines between fashion and leisurewear.

www.kithnyc.com

ABC CARPET & HOME

In the heart of the Flatiron district, despite

the fact that most of goods contained within

ABC Carpet & Home's six-floor Manhattan

flagship are luxe, upscale or vintage, the

place retains a certain comfortable,

warehouse aesthetic, making it a delightful

place to browse and shop. Worn hardwood

floors creak under your feet, glittering

chandeliers and gigantic antique carpets

adorn the high ceilings, and the store

abounds with furniture vignettes. Flip

through piles of rugs on six, peruse the

Ralph Lauren room sets on five, get lost in

the European antiques on four, lust after the

bed linens on three, and covet the modern

vintage pieces on two. As if this wasn’t

enough, across the street are three more

floors of carpets at one of ABC's many

satellite locations. www.abchome.com

BARNEYS NEW YORK DOWNTOWN

CENTURY 21 DOWNTOWN

Love it or hate it, New York’s famed discount

designer store is still one of Manhattan’s

biggest retail draws. Located downtown in

the heart of the Financial District, Century 21

is a massive, multilevel department store,

where, if you are prepared to search hard

enough and can handle the warehouse-like

shopping environment in places, you can

find some of the best bargains in the city,

with designer merchandise for sale at huge

discounts, especially key pieces from

previous seasons. Visit Century 21 for

designer American-branded underwear and

basics by Ralph Lauren and suchlike at the

best prices in Manhattan.

www.c21stores.com

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Panoramic One-Bedroom Suite

Burj Al Arab, Dubai

All that glitters is gold at Burj Al Arab in

Dubai, as Ashlee Starratt spends a weekend

in the lap of suite luxury amid the seven-star

playground of royalty and rock stars.


Dubai at sunset is a dragon opening one

gleaming eye – like a hot ball on the horizon.

Below its tail, a mound of gold – the city;

oud-scented and alive. The last of the sun’s rays

refract off the glimmering glass of buildings so high they

skim the clouds. Very soon, day will trade for night and a

different, dusky city awakens; one where the sleek shine of

Maseratis is out-polished and out-prowled only by the

reflective chrome of Lamborghinis. A city where its myriad

of restaurants and nightclubs heave with taste and

opulence, and where, on the dance-floor, the height of

ladies’ Louboutins rival the skyscrapers. This is the

playground of princes, the exotic escape of Hollywood’s

elite and, a desert city where hundreds of thousands of

blue-collar expats eke out a living on the edge of

uncertainty and the fumes of oil. Tonight, as a dove-white

Rolls Royce Phantom glides down the city’s arterial

highway and into the eye of the dragon, six-lanes of

glinting Thursday night traffic reflect the remains of the

day, as we chase the light down Sheikh Zayed Road. The

direction is south and the destination is Burj Al Arab.

In an emirate that’s built its currency on luxury, to

experience Burj Al Arab is to shake hands with modern

Dubai. Staking its claim along an azure stretch of coastline

15 kilometres south of the city’s downtown core, the

world’s most recognisable hotel is also one of its youngest,

conceptualised in 1993 and opened in 1999 – a testament

to the emirate’s unparalleled pace of progress. As the 1980s

wound down, what was once a mostly empty expanse of

desert quickly became an oasis for rapid development.

Buildings sprouted from the sand seemingly overnight and

Dubai’s infrastructure, in its infancy, took root.

As one of Jumeirah Group’s flagship hotel properties, Burj

Al Arab has become one of its nation’s most identifiable

symbols – its unique sail design a nod to Dubai’s broad

nautical heritage. For there is tradition here; a hospitality

rooted in the Bedouin spirit that mustn’t be forgotten, as it

forms the bedrock of the brand’s ethos. Arrival to

departure, the Arab sense of generosity lingers – from

chauffeured airport pick-up, to personalised, private

check-out. Which is why I find myself in the backseat of a

ghostly Roller, barreling down the blacktop towards a

seven-star stay in a global icon. If the devil’s in the details,

none dare go overlooked at Burj Al Arab. Stepping out of

the arrivals lounge at DXB, humidity engulfs before I am

presented with a bouquet of flowers and the smiling visage

70

of the hotel’s chauffeur – decked in white from cap to

gloves. In the car, I’m offered a music menu to select from

– to set the ambiance – and my eye falls upon the latest

Café del Mar compilation. The ride is plush and the

on-board refreshments cool.

At 56-storeys high, its Guinness World Record title as the

‘World’s Tallest All-Suite Hotel’ is well earned. On the

approach, the structure looms monolithic. Built by Atkins

under the guidance of lead architect Thomas Wills Wright,

its construction is a marvel. With its triangular shape,

eleven luxe retail outlets and world’s tallest atrium –

which at 182 metres is enough to dwarf the Statue of

Liberty – the entire structure clocks in at a colossal

250,000 tonnes.

As my luggage is whisked away, I step inside a lobby that

initially overwhelms the senses, its cathedral-like grandeur

punctuated with splashes of colour, opulent fabrics and

Arabic influences, all set against a backdrop of gold. The

hotel’s interior design is a salute to primary colours – each

suite an Aladdin’s cave of glitz. To the uninitiated, first

impressions may seem over-stated, but spend a night and

the over-the-top surroundings and décor soon feel like home.

Conceptualized and outfitted by Chinese interior designer

Kuan Chew, each floor (as you crane your neck upwards!)

is a rainbow hue against a striking contrast of white. The

addition of this colourful element came at the specific

request of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al

Maktoum, ruler of Dubai, after touring the property with

Chew ahead of its completion.

After a warm Arabic welcome – complete with an arrival

procession delivering cold towels, fresh dates and aromatic

spiced tea - I’m swept upstairs to a 12 th floor Panoramic

One-Bedroom Suite. There’s a discreet sensibility in the

way Burj Al Arab facilitates its guest experience. Each floor

has its own concierge and each suite its own, assigned

private butler. I’m greeted with a smile by Fayaz, who

informs me that he’ll be at my round-the-clock disposal for

the next 48-hours of my stay.

Check-in is done privately in the suite, from the comfort

of your own, personal business centre, complete with iMac

and in-room printer. There’s no need to lug your laptop

here. During my stay I didn’t press an elevator button or

swipe my room-entry card once, since Fayaz was always

on-hand - from the moment I set foot out the door - to get

me where I needed to go within the building.

Spread out over two levels, my Panoramic One-Bedroom

Suite boasts floor-to-ceiling windows and a regal, winding

staircase to the upper bedroom level. Its open-plan design

allows the light to stream in from all corners – making

sunrise and sunset a truly memorable experience set

against an oceanic backdrop with views towards the Palm

Jumeirah.

The lower level of the suite is adorned in lush blues and

yellows, with an expansive dining and living area, private

bar and TV encased in gold. Upstairs the palette changes to

claret red, with a huge bed spread languidly below a

mirrored ceiling. A sumptuous walk-in dressing area and

regal master bath make an evening of pampering before

dinner an absolute must.

With nine restaurants and bars on site, the food and

beverage options at Burj Al Arab are a veritable feast for the

senses, with Jumeirah Group employing

two-Michelin-starred Chef, Nathan Outlaw, to oversee the

award-winning, underwater Al Mahara seafood restaurant.

Al Muntaha restaurant - jutting out on the hotel’s

cantilevered 27 th floor - is as much a destination for

celebrity sightings as it is for its take on modern French

cuisine, complete with spectacular vistas that are difficult

to beat. After dinner I made the short walk across to Gold

On 27, the hotel’s newest lounge located on the same

floor. As its name suggests, the décor is 24 karat, the DJ

refined and the cocktails exquisite, with names such as

Light Sweet Crude and City Of Gold from a menu that tells

the story of modern Dubai. I order a Wisdom Of Pearls – an

evolved take on a traditional Bloody Mary – which is served

in a mother of pearl tumbler, with a lobster bisque base

and a yogurt pearl set atop an oyster shell.

When I return to my room the hour is late and Fayaz has

run a Jacuzzi bath; a dozen fresh roses, delivered daily, are

in a vase by the entry-way, and a complimentary bottle of

Chilean cabernet sauvignon has been opened to breathe.

It’s these little details that earn Burj Al Arab its seven-star

reputation. In every suite, guests find a menu designed

exclusively for such little luxuries – oysters on the

half-shell, bespoke floral arrangements, and hand-crafted

creations from the chocolatier, should the mood strike.

At 150-metres above the sea, overlooking the Gulf, Talise

Spa’s 18 th floor perch affords some truly spectacular

views as you drift off to sleep on the massage table, or

luxuriate in the warm waters of its infinity pool. Spread


out over two floors, it’s cool, mosaicked corridors are

reminiscent of a traditional Turkish bath, but in fact house

expansive men’s and ladies’ facilities, steam rooms and

plunge pools, a squash court, and aerobic fitness centre –

all among the clouds. I indulge in an 85-minute Burj Al

Arab Signature Massage, where the deft hands of my

therapist Ana and the idyllic scent of lavender oil quickly

seduce my senses.

No stay at the hotel is complete without experiencing its

latest engineering marvel – Burj Al Arab Terrace – a

world-first in marine and off-site construction, unveiled just

a few months ago. Step out the doors from Bab Al Yam (the

hotel’s airy ground-floor all-day-dining restaurant), and the

Terrace spreads out in front of you, stretching 100m into the

sea. The structure was expertly crafted in Finland and

transported to Dubai in eight pieces. The design incorporates

a 612m 2 freshwater pool, 828m 2 saltwater infinity pool, 24

cabanas, 4 Jacuzzis, a swim-up bar, 8 Royal Cabanas, and al

fresco Californian-fusion Scape Restaurant & Bar. 10 million

mosaic tiles in shades of azure and gold line the pools, while

1,000 tonnes of white sand create the dazzling beach.

Cabana guests enjoy full butler service, and today I’m

enjoying the royal treatment. Royal Cabanas are equipped

with their own mini-bar, spacious air-conditioned living room,

private balcony overlooking the ocean, and a shower and bath

en-suite with amenities by luxury Australian skin care

company, Sodashi. All around me, bronzed bodies linger in

repose – an elite mix of sun-worshippers, weekend warriors

and cultured travellers – with something for everyone.

If Dubai truly is the jewel of the Middle East, its her people

that make her such. Those I encountered during my stay at

Burj Al Arab brought a warm, human element to the

overwhelming surroundings of luxury. It’s this sense of

hospitality that permeates the guest experience at Burj Al

Arab, moulding the memorable into the truly unforgettable.

As I gaze out over the edge of the Terrace’s infinity pool

with a cocktail in my hand, the sun is high and, just beyond

the breakers, the jet-ski crowd is out in full force. Beyond

the lip of my glass, the Gulf’s azure water stretches

onwards towards a glassy horizon where all that glitters

really is gold.

Ashlee Starratt stayed at Burj Al Arab in August 2016.

In October and November 2016, the average nightly rate for a

Panoramic One-Bedroom Suite is AED 8,900 plus taxes

inclusive of breakfast and return BMW airport transfers. The

rate is AED 10,990 plus taxes from 21 Oct - 6 Nov 2016.

74

www.elegantresorts.co.uk www.burjalarab.com

62 76

CULTUREDCHAT

WITH

NADIM KARAM

SINCE THE EARLY 1990S, ARTIST AND ARCHITECT NADIM KARAM HAS

LEFT HIS MARK ON THE METROPOLITAN VISAGES OF BEIRUT AND

BEYOND. LEBANON’S DE FACTO ARTIST LAUREATE, KARAM’S

WORLDWIDE URBAN ART INSTALLATIONS UNDERSCORE THEIR

VISCERAL SENSIBILITIES THROUGH ARCHITECTURE THAT TELLS A

STORY OF THE SPACE IT OCCUPIES. THE CULTURED TRAVELLER’S

ASHLEE STARRATT EXPLORES THEMES OF URBAN RENEWAL AND

CREATIVE REBELLION WITH THE ARTIST HIMSELF.

Beirut’s cultural renaissance in the 1960’s earned it the

reputation as the ‘Paris of the Middle East.’ Having

spent your formative years in Beirut during this

period, how do you remember that epoch in the city’s

narrative and how did that Beirut influence you as an

artist today – or did it?

I remember the Beirut of that era from my childhood

impressions – the glamour, the different communities of

foreign and local people who intermingled downtown. I

remember the cinemas, the cafés, the music and the souks. I

think there must have been a tremendous energy in Beirut at

that time and, ultimately, the memory of it gave me

confidence in the cultural strength of my city.

Beirut has always been a phoenix, constantly between

effervescence and disaster; it’s part of its magical attraction.

It’s like living near an active volcano – you know that at any

time it could blow, but the soil is so rich and fertile you can’t

leave. This fertility and, probably, the sensation of living for

the moment, nourishes my thoughts, practice and output.

After graduating from the American University in

Beirut in the early 1980s, you went on to obtain your

Masters and Doctoral Degrees in Architecture from the

University of Tokyo. What drew you to the Far East as a

young architect and how did you develop your interest

in the Japanese philosophy of space?

Most Lebanese students think about the U.S. or Europe for

further studies, but I was fascinated by the culture of Japan

and the simplicity and restraint that Japanese architects were

bringing to international architectural discourse. Once I

reached there, I found that the only way to understand their

design was to understand the impregnation of Buddhist,

Confucian and Shinto ideas in their culture and philosophy of

space, which are so different from Western and Middle

Eastern concepts.

You left the American University in 1982 during the

height of Lebanon’s Civil War. The human cost of

conflict is immeasurable in its destruction; yet an

architect is in a unique profession of hope – to

re-build. Back in 2002, you were selected by the U.N.

as co-chairman on the conference for the

reconstruction of Kabul. What were its outcomes and

can you describe the weight of this responsibility?

I have lived the effects of war on an individual as well as [on

a] collective level, and have a lot of empathy for Kabul’s

situation – particularly as an Afghan ex-student of mine,

Ajmal, was and is still active in trying to help regenerate the

city. The conference in London was more like a think-tank;

analysing data to understand the hurdles from different

angles rather than making decisions and taking

responsibilities. As it turned out, it was premature because

the violence was far from over.

You’re multi-disciplinary in your approach as an artist

– sculptor, painter, urban artist, and architect – fusing

each medium to create large-scale ‘urban

interventions’ in cities around the world. Can you

elaborate on the concept behind your Urban Toys

public art series – what are the stories behind these

organic, and often dream-like works?

After ten years in Japan, I wrote an article called ‘Hapsitus’

(A+U magazine, ’92) which was at the same time the genesis

of my urban projects and their theoretical backbone. My

studies in architecture fed and informed my love of cities; the

way they breathe and work, their silhouettes and their

spaces. My concern was where they became choked by their

own functionalism and networks, and stagnated in stultifying

routines, draining the energy from the city. A decade later,

terrorist attacks added another dimension to life in cities;

introducing fear and trauma.

My urban projects are basically about giving stories to

cities, allowing for questioning of accepted norms and

moments of dreams. The stories and characters dig into the

culture and memory of the place to help reconnect people

with their roots, and give a whimsical look towards the future.

The interaction of people with the stories generates its own

creative energy.

You’ve made it your life’s work to apply art and

creative expression as a form of ‘rebellion’ in response

to fear, geopolitical upheaval, terrorism, and urban

decay. Have you found a mutual ally in the public’s

sentiment towards the subject matter of your work?

You know, art in the public domain lies in ambiguous territory,

in the sense that it’s not controlled by the art world, but by

city administrations. If not well-studied, or thought out and

planned, people will react against the giant imposition of an

object in their community spaces. My architectural

background has given me the psychological tools to deal with

cities. I enjoy dissecting the urban layers; the architecture, the

spaces, communities, stories and memories and then, within

it, I find a canvas to express an idea. I consider a project a

success when people adopt it, even if it was only there

temporarily.

THE THREE MAGIC FLOWERS OF JITCHU

78

In Prague, after struggling for three years to realise the

project, it was great when Prime Minister Vaclav Havel called

an impromptu press conference in front of my work, declaring

it as a symbol of Czech liberation and opening to the world. It

was also nice to see Prague vendors selling tourist postcards

of my project on the bridge many years after it had happened.

The Beirut project was the most controversial during its

three-year lifespan, because it was not easy to bring new

stories to a territory that has seen so much bloodshed and

suffering. Those who opposed it said it was irreverent, and

those who loved it said it defined the hope of the post-war

period for a fresh beginning. I knew I was on the right track

when parents told me they would take their kids to

downtown on the weekends to discover where the Archaic

Procession sculptures had gone next. I was also surprised and

pleased when Van Alen Institute in New York selected it as

one of five projects worldwide that contributed to

regenerating a city after a disaster.

PUBLIC ART INSTALLATION PRAGUE

In 1996 you founded the iconic Atelier Hapsitus

(happening + situations) in Beirut where it evolved

from an art-cum-architecture collective, where young

ingénués cut their teeth, into one of the globe’s most

prolific voices for artistic dissent and urban

awakening. Please can you tell us more about its

genesis?

I witnessed first-hand ten years of an economic and cultural

flourishing in Japan, and returned to Beirut with an outsider’s

gaze. I wanted to create possibilities for Beirutis to get a

different perspective on their city. I was joined by a few of my

graduate students, and we created our first manifesto,

‘Hilarious Beirut’, which was a counter-proposal to the official

scheme for re-building downtown Beirut – which I was

against on many levels. We followed this with the

installations at Sursock Museum, the National Museum, the

Prague and the downtown Beirut public art projects.

Somewhere along the way, we defined ourselves as the

Hapsitus collective. Many Hapsititians have come and gone

over the years, but we maintain our energy through the mix

of disciplines, local cultures and different nationalities.

THE TRAVELERS, MELBOURNE

Of Hapsitus’ dozens of temporary and permanent art

installations worldwide, several of its most iconic are

Beirut’s The Archaic Procession, The Three Magic

Flowers of Jitchu in Nara, Japan, and Melbourne,

Australia’s The Travellers – all of which are part of the

Urban Toys series. Walk us through your collaborative

process from conceptualization to realization in this

series.

The Archaic Procession were, in origin, 1001 drawings of

different elements, inspired by humans, animals, plants and

objects that I created to celebrate diversity and pluralism. These inhabited my paintings,

but in Beirut I made 22 giant sculptures of them, and created a three-year itinerant

project, moving different combinations of them from bridges, to squares, to building tops

overnight every couple of months for three years. The idea was to bring anti-symbols to

Beirut, far from the political and religious symbols that had defined conflict for so long.

The Three Flowers of Jitchu was a project I began as a doctoral student in Japan

studying temple architecture. I wanted to celebrate the work of a monk from the Middle

East who became an extraordinary thinker and creator in Japan, but it took me 20 years

to convince the committee of monks to accept a contemporary art installation in their

grounds. The two weeks of the installation was for me the realisation of a dream.

The Travellers project began when I was visiting Melbourne. I became aware of a

city project to put a series of three-storey buildings on an abandoned industrial rail

bridge that crossed the inner-city river. I was convinced that this was the wrong

decision, [as the] bridge was a magnificent cultural icon and a symbol of the city’s

history. I went back to Beirut and, after working all summer, sent the city a

counter-proposal to install three-storey high sculptures on the bridge that would

represent the different immigrant groups to Melbourne. These would stay in ‘parking’

most of the time, travelling across the bridge on railways three times a day at set times,

and staying one hour before returning, so they would also function as an urban clock.

Five years later, I received a response from Melbourne city, when they decided to realise

the project before the Commonwealth Games.

A singular facet of the Hapsitus philosophy is the notion of ‘dream bombs’. Can

you elaborate on their purpose and manifestations?

I have lived and felt the effect of bombs raining down on my city. There’s the point of

attack, the explosion, and then the circular ripples of destruction. These correspond with

the shock, the deaths and the ripples of sadness through the population. I wanted to use

the same strategy and take similar risks to obtain exactly the opposite effect; create

surprise, amusement, and moments of joyous energy spreading through the public

domain.

I consider that I and all other creative practitioners work in parallel with terrorists;

they promote nihilism through destruction while we promote memories and dreams

through creative projects. They don’t notice that we exist, and our concerns are

meaningless to them, but our strongest weapon against them is the affirmation of life

and energy in the public domain.

War is a theme that permeates your body of work (2006 War Series and 2012

Shooting the Cloud paintings). As images of heartbreak continue to overwhelm

– most recently, the video footage of young Syrian boy Omran Daqneesh who

was pulled in shock from the rubble of his family home after an air-strike in

Aleppo. As an artist, how do you seek to reconcile the human toll of conflict

within the ethos of your work?

I can only try to express it through my work, the latest of which are the Shout and Silence

sculptures, which I exhibited with Ayyam Gallery at Art Dubai this year. In the catalogue

of these works, I wrote the following:

“…Like a yoyo, the Middle East fluctuates between Shout and Silence. When you

are in a small boat with your family, searching for the shore, but in fact drifting towards

the unknown, are you silent or shouting? When millions are fleeing their homes, running

to Anywhere, are they silent or shouting?”

I exhibited two Silence sculptures, and The dialogue of the deaf, which was two

Shout sculptures facing each other, “in a psychological wrestling match where there can

80

I DON’T THINK ARTISTS

CONSCIOUSLY TAKE ON THE

RESPONSIBILITY TO BE THE

VOICE OF THE TIMES;

THE ARCH

SHHHHHHH...SHOUT!

be no winners or losers; an abyss of eternal conflict. The

issues at stake appear to be perpetually changing, but in

reality are just becoming more complex. The shouting of

these two opposing forces can trap an entire population

between them.”

Shout and Silence might emerge from the grimmest of

conditions of the Middle East, but ultimately, they are

fiercely optimistic expressions of the human will to be, strive

and create.

Your work has been described as ‘storytelling

architecture’, with movement and impermanence

being common elements. Like the hakawati from

your father’s tales, do you identify with the concept

of the story-teller as a nomad – having left your

message and your mark across the world through

your pieces.

Yes, I think I can identify with being a storyteller – it saves

me from the conundrum of being an architect, urban artist,

painter or sculptor! I combine the Lebanese hakawati

(storyteller) with the Japanese marebito – the roving

outsider who can bring fresh spirit, ideas and changes to a

community just because he does not carry within him the

psychological restrictions of how things have always been

done there. I think there is something in that – to be able to

introduce new stories to a place is to strike the delicate

balance between having cultural awareness, but not being

weighed down by its constraints.

Stretching Thoughts, your solo show at Beirut’s

Ayyam Gallery, has made waves in the art world as it

probes the human impact of decisions meted out by

governments and how the fortitude of our collective

energy and creativity as a people expands beyond all

imposed boundaries. Would you say that this series,

in its own way, is an ode to Lebanon, her history, her

trials, and her resilience – or does it go beyond that?

The Stretching Thoughts series evokes both the positivist

power and limitless possibilities that thoughts can generate

as well as the abandoned fate of neglected thoughts. It

carries a message that could be read as universalist, but, as

you guessed, it is very much inspired by Lebanon.

Is there one unrealized project that keeps you up at

82

THE ELEPHANT CITY

AIC PROCESSION, BEIRUT CENTRAL DISTRCIT

night, and if so, what’s holding you back?

I have many! The Muse, an architectural project to build my

own art workshop in the Lebanese mountains, is very much

on my mind. I am building it so that I can finally have the

space to create large-scale paintings. I am also thinking a lot

about a new sculpture I want to make: Trou de Memoire

(Memory Lapse). It’s about void and memory, and I think it

encapsulates most of my work until now. I also want to

realise The Elephant City, a giant sculptural building for

Lagos, Nigeria.

Via Atelier Hapsitus, you’ve made a commitment to

perpetuate the voice of Lebanese artistic talent, while

honouring your own roots. You could have

established this collective anywhere – Paris, Tokyo,

New York. Why did you choose to come home, and

what’s the most liberating element about being an

artist in the Beirut of 2016?

I have always felt that it’s important to be here. It would be

much easier to establish a practice outside, become adopted

by that country, and benefit from the support of its

institutions – but then I would be doing a different kind of

work, expressing different realities. I want to express the

energy and the chaos, the culture and the complexities of

life in Lebanon and the Middle East, and for that, I need to be

here. From here, we realise public art projects for cities all

over the world!

No matter the profession, we all draw our inspiration

and drive from somewhere, someone, or something.

Who or what are your creative catalysts?

Whenever I travel, I always carry a sketchbook with me. I use

the long hours in planes to fill it with spontaneous ideas.

These have become my well of inspiration, and the ongoing

primary output and source for all my work.

You’ve been outspoken about your mission as an

artist to create an original ‘urban vocabulary’. What

exactly does that constitute and why is a new

language for this dialogue necessary in your opinion?

Urban environments are the fastest-growing environments

on earth. Whether organised and planned, or organically

chaotic, they are there to serve the primary functions of

residences, work spaces, commercial, health and leisure

MY ARCHITECTURAL

BACKGROUND HAS GIVEN ME

THE PSYCHOLOGICAL TOOLS

TO DEAL WITH CITIES.

84

NADIM KARAM AT STRETCHING THOUGHTS OPENING EXHIBITION IN 2016

spaces, transportation and communication networks. What you can never plan into an

urban area is the dynamic, creative, and productive energy of its people. Without this,

cities are just empty carcasses.

In the preface to my 2006 Urban Toys, book, Paul Virilio wrote, “Just what will

become of our cities, these concentrations of real estate inertia?” I believe that creating

pockets of absurdity, dreams, stories and memories in the city stimulates the invisible,

essential energy of cities. Ideas can move people; they can offer moments of dreams. The

form that this urban artistic language takes does not matter, but it should be intuitive and

responsive to its culture and people.

Since 2000 you’ve published four books on the significance of your most

seminal projects and, this year, you’re currently in progress on the first

Hapsitus book, Resiliency. Why did you choose this name as its title, and can

you offer us a glimpse inside?

This takes me back to your question about establishing my work practice in Beirut rather

than elsewhere. It was a choice, one I believe in, but it has not been easy. Many times we

were forced to close the office and stop working because of wars or explosions. My book

Urban Toys was literally printed under bombs. The country we live in is unable to support

our line of work easily, so we work from here for the rest of the world. Resiliency is not

passive endurance; it’s an act of resistance through creative projects. It’s also a way to

navigate the complexities of the country. The book will be an overview of Hapsitus

projects over the last couple of decades.

Artists have a certain responsibility to be the voice of their times, and you’ve

left an indelible mark through your work – and that of Atelier Hapsitus – as a

voice of hope and levity in the face of global conflict. Do you envision a future

without conflict in the Middle East and how would your art, and its message,

evolve in its wake?

I don’t think artists consciously take on the responsibility to be the voice of the times; if

they did, they might stop working! Artists are intuitive; they can only project what they

feel, nourished by the social climate, environment and times.

I cannot envision the near future without conflict in the Middle East, but as long as I

can work, I will be reflecting what is going on around me, whether it is peace or conflict…

As well as countless galleries and museums around the world, many of your

pieces can be seen on public display in hospitality environments – including Le

Gray hotel in Beirut and Louis Vuitton’s boutique in Dubai’s Mall of the

Emirates. Do you specifically tailor your works to suit these kinds of settings, or

do you prefer to maintain a more organic approach?

I am a man of geography, topography and circumstances; I like to resolve spatial

matrices. My purposeful interventions are the projects I conceive. But once my exhibited

works are sold, they sometimes have an interesting way of re-appearing in a public

context. The sculpture at Louis Vuitton was actually in the context of an art workshop I

was giving for children there, and the Le Gray elephant departed from my first Ayyam

Gallery Beirut exhibition opening in the arms of Mr. Gray, who had decided that it was

going to be his hotel mascot.

With so much unrest happening across the world, is there a corner of the

planet where you’re able to relax, unwind and have some semblance of a real

vacation?

Under the apricot tree at my house in the mountains of Lebanon!

HOW STRONG IS YOUR PASSPORT?

The Cultured Traveller team investigates the current strength of the world’s passports, and

what it might cost you to legitimately obtain a second passport which is actually worth having

A passport gives an individual the ability to travel the world

with relative ease - unless the passport is from say

Afghanistan or Somalia. As the world becomes a much

smaller place - due to the diminishing cost of flying and the

increasing ease with which travellers can hop on a plane -

the desirability of a passport is becoming of much greater

importance, with many nations now offering their passports

to non-nationals, in exchange for a sizeable investment in

their country’s economies, often of many millions. Malta

currently runs the world’s most successful co-called

around double that in government bonds for five years.

Cyprus is the third smallest nation in the EU and some

would say that the island made it onto the world stage by

seizing the cash of wealthy foreigners to bail out its banks

during the country’s 2013 financial meltdown. Surprisingly,

from this mess, came Cyprus’ current citizenship offer, with

passports offered in exchange for investments of EUR

2.5million, although that figure is almost certainly negotiable!

People born in countries with less desirable passports

“citizenship-by-investment” program, and has gained

visa-free access to another two countries since 2015,

increasing the strength of a Maltese passport to the 8th most

powerful in the world this year.

Because a number of governments around the world need

to raise hundreds of millions of dollars to fill up their coffers,

second passports have become a multi billion-dollar

business. And there is not a lack of customers. In fact,

demand for some often outstrips supply. But there is no easy

or cheap way to legally get your hands on an authentic

second passport, and in todays market countries are not

interested in diminishing their brand by selling you a passport

for say USD 50k. If anyone tells you otherwise, or claims to

have a guy who can “hook you up”, run the other way!

A St. Lucian second passport is currently the best value, with

the option of buying one outright for USD 250k, or investing

cannot even take a holiday without weeks, or often months,

of planning and paperwork, not to mention sizeable costs

which can run into the hundreds of Dollars for a single visa

application to visit just one country. Even then, there’s no

guarantee that the traveller will be granted a visa and

permitted to travel, with applications quite often refused,

and costly multiple applications needed to facilitate just one

trip. Meanwhile, others can hop on a plane on a whim to

pretty much any destination, and either enter a country

freely or very easily get a visa on arrival. Hence the passports

we hold now not only influence our holidaying options, but

also our working and love lives. Since this subject is one The

Cultured Traveller is regularly asked about, we've done a

little bit of research, and compiled a summary of the best

passports in the world this year for travellers:

Whilst the UK topped the 2015 ranking with the world’s


most powerful passport last year - a position it held for three

consecutive years - according to this year’s study, German

citizens currently possess the world's most covetable

passport, which now occupies the top spot. The Henley &

Partners ranking takes into account how many countries

can be visited without applying for a visa. Out of a possible

218 countries, holders of German passports can now travel

to 177 nations visa free. Meanwhile UK passport holders can

visit 175 and American citizens 174. Swedish nationals now

hold the world’s second most powerful passport. Joint third

place is shared between the UK, France, Italy, Spain and

Finland. Although American citizens enjoy great travel

freedom, a US passport is no longer the strongest, coming in

forth this year, alongside Belgium, Denmark and the

Netherlands.

Visa requirements, of course, are often an interesting

still able to access 167 countries visa free. For the first time

in years, a New Zealand passport is stronger than an

Australian passport, having moved up to joint seventh place

with the Greeks, able to visit 171 countries without a visa.

The world's least powerful passport belongs to citizens of

Afghanistan, who can visit just 25 countries without any

special visa requirements. Afghanistan is followed by

Pakistan with 29 countries, Iran with 30 and Somalian

citizens being able to visit 31 countries without a visa. Sri

Lanka - one of the most beautiful countries in the world,

with a thriving tourism sector and expanding holiday market

- sadly has the world’s ninth least powerful passport, with

holders only able to travel to 39 countries without a visa.

With money, data and knowledge crossing international

borders much faster and with greater ease than many

GERMAN PASSPORT HOLDERS CAN VISIT 177 COUNTRIES WITHOUT A VISA

(but frequently overlooked) indicator of bilateral relations

between two countries. A passport from a country on good

diplomatic terms with its peers is a powerful tool, allowing

holders to travel across borders with ease. Last year,

Indonesia excluded Australia from a list of 45 countries that

enjoyed visa-free entry to the country. Strained relations

over the execution of convicted Australian drug traffickers

were blamed for this particular exclusion.

Four countries in particular made huge gains this year;

Tonga rising 16 spots, Palau by 20, Colombia by 25 and

Timor-Leste being the highest climber with an increase of

33 positions.

An Australian passport has moved up to eighth position,

with holders able to visit 169 countries without having to

obtain a visa prior to arrival. Czech Republic and Hungarian

passport holders have moved down two positions, but are

people can, the good news is that a digital passport may

well be on the horizon, albeit a long way off. Modern

passports already contain chips that compare the holder’s

face to the one stored in the passport – this being the

technology that enables e-gate entry at the UK border at

Heathrow Airport, for instance. So it’s feasible that a chip

contained within a smartphone could embed this

technology, instead of just representing a document (such

as a boarding pass) on a screen. De La Rue, the company

that prints British passports and banknotes, is working on a

number of new technological possibilities, including

paperless passports and travel documents contained within

mobile phones. But at this moment in time all such concepts

are at the early stages of development, so our little travel

booklets will almost certainly be around for a few more

years to come.

88

CRESCENT BEACH

No Shoes Required

A quick ferry ride from the flash of the Hamptons, Alex Benasuli enjoys the

unassuming, quiet sophistication of laid-back vacation haven, Shelter Island, tucked

between the north and south forks of Long Island on America's Eastern Seaboard

T

he Hamptons are well known around the

world as the weekend and summer

playground of New York City’s elite. What

fewer people know is that the Hamptons is

not just one place, but a collection of distinct hamlets that

stretch for 30 miles on the south fork of the eastern end of

Long Island, bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on one side and

Peconic Bay on the other. Beginning with old establishment

Southampton, and ending at very tip with surfer friendly and

chilled-out Montauk, the Hamptons also include

Bridgehampton, Sag Harbor and East Hampton. The entire

area is gorgeous. Sandy beaches go on forever. Town centers

date back to pre-American revolutionary times. Thick woods

and manicured gardens are abundant in equal measure.

While the displays of wealth have become more obvious in

recent years (think fancier cars, bigger houses, better

restaurants and more exclusive shopping), there still exist

pockets of the laidback and unfussy rural nature of the area

that made it so popular to begin with. For those wanting to

experience the best of the Hamptons minus the bling, there

is a hidden gem, and it’s called Shelter Island.

Getting to Shelter Island necessitates boarding a ferry that

crosses Peconic Bay from Long Island’s south and north forks

(www.northferry.com www.southferry.com). Whilst the

journey is just ten minutes, the effect it has is immeasurable.

The small degree of separation makes Shelter Island a very

special place. Both literally and figuratively, visitors are that

much more removed from the real world. If the Hamptons are

New York’s playground, then 27.1-square-mile Shelter Island

is the Hamptons’ secret and understated garden. From one

end of the island to the other is just over three miles. At it’s

widest it’s just five miles. However, the island’s highly

irregular shape gives way to an abundance of usable

waterfront, salt marshes, bay beaches, coves, marinas and

creek beds all ripe for discovery, plus two tiny hamlets with

restaurants and shops.

With one third of the island occupied by the Mashomack

Preserve – a vast tract of unspoiled forested and coastal land,

brimming with hiking trails – first timers are usually

surprised at how green and wooded the place is. It is in the

natural wilds of this sanctuary that one can only imagine

what awaited founding father, Nathaniel Sylvester, who

purchased rights to the island in 1651 from local Manhasset

Indians. His family seat, Sylvester Manor, still exists today as

a private residence and educational farm. It wasn't until the

late 1800s and early 1900s that Shelter Island began to take

MASHOMACK PRESERVE

IMAGE BY KELLI DELANEY KOT

90

THE CHEQUIT

off as a summer retreat. Shelter Island Heights – a historic

district on the northern side of the island – is dotted with

Victorian and Queen Anne-style wood and shingle cottages,

replete with tidy front gardens, decorative window trimmings

and screened porches. They are the epitome of cute and

charming. Slap bang in the middle of the Heights, and first

built as a religious retreat in 1872, is The Chequit. An island

institution, the property was transformed into a high-society

getaway in the 1940s, and visited by the likes of Frank Sinatra

and Marilyn Monroe. Completely made over by its new owners

in the past few years, hoteliers Kevin O’Shea and David Bowd

(the same guys behind Provincetown’s beautiful Salt House

Inn), the minimal 37-room refuge of whitewashed rooms -

bathed in natural light and dotted with characterful touches -

is perfect for dreamy jaunts and lazy afternoons on the

generous second-floor porch, gazing over the town and

harbour beyond (www.thechequit.com). Just around the

corner from The Chequit, is Shelter Island Heights Pharmacy,

housed in a crisp Gothic Revival building which first opened

its doors in the 1920s, complete with soda fountain and

old-fashioned lunch counter open every day except

Christmas. A little further on is gourmet food store and café,

Marie Eiffel, where you can find everything from

made-to-order sandwiches to exquisite French pastries

produced by its on-site Parisian Pâtissier. Posh but low-key

summer residents visit Marie Eiffel for morning coffee and

newspapers. Position yourself on the porch out back and

enjoy the mesmerizing views across the water. The bulletin

boards by the entrance are a hive of local info about yoga,

pilates, yard sales and other island activities. Shelter Island is

essentially a summer beach resort, a place to kick off your

shoes and shove your toes in the sand. The bay waters make

it ideal for safe swimming, boating and fishing. The island’s

beaches have character, dotted with shells, pebbles and sea

grasses and there is always something to see, absorb or enjoy.

If you’re after a slightly more upscale beachy

home-away-from-home vacation experience, then Sunset

Beach is the answer. Owned by smart, international hotelier,

André Balazs - the same proprietor as the fabled Chateau

Marmont in LA, the Mercer in NYC and London’s Chiltern

Firehouse - Sunset Beach is one of the Hamptons’ perennial

hotspots, renowned for its buzzy and fashionable bar,

restaurant and boutique. Spiritually Sunset Beach is more St.

Tropez than American Eastern Seaboard. Its restaurant is

spread across two floors, in a series of indoor and partially

outdoor spaces directly facing one of the island’s longer sandy

beaches, and the best spot from which to watch the sunset

SUNSET BEACH

(the hint is in the name). The food is Mediterranean-inspired

and complimented by a raw bar serving local shellfish and

lobster. In the dappled light, filtering through artfully

positioned lanterns and torches, listening to groovy beats,

looking out to boats bobbing on the bay and mingling with the

Hamptons’ party set, you really do feel like you could be

somewhere a little more exotic. Only on such an intimate

island could so smooth a vibe be pulled off so perfectly.

Sunset Beach’s accommodation is located within a

cleverly reimagined 1960s motel. All twenty simply yet

tastefully decorated rooms face the water. There is an outdoor

games area with ping pong tables and pétanque. Kayaking,

sailing, paddleboarding and tennis are on hand. Or the beach

concierge can set you up for a day on the sand. Between the

scenery, people watching, activities and one of the best bars

and restaurants in the Hamptons, guests generally want for

nothing. At Sunset Beach you can transition from barefoot

beach to evening cocktails by merely adding a shirt and some

accessories (www.sunsetbeachli.com).

Shelter Island boasts a variety of quality dining options, all

easily reachable. Relaxed, country chic Vine Street Café is

arguably one the island’s best, renowned for its bouillabaisse,

line-caught local swordfish, homemade pastas and excellent

wine list. Whilst Ram’s Head Inn – connected to the island by

a scenic causeway – serves New American cuisine in a

handsome period building facing a private cove. Of course

you can always go to the local fish market and bag locally

caught lobster, flounder and muscles, and then head to one

of the many roadside farm stands for sweet corn and fresh

veggies to cook up your own feast.

Most visitors do not feel the need to explore off the isle,

Shelter Island being the down-to-earth antidote to hectic

lifestyles and the more showy Hamptons. Here life kicks down

a few gears, moves across to the slow lane and revolves

around the multitude of activities that take advantage of the

beautiful scenery all around. It’s the kind of place you can slip

into a bathing suit and flip-flops and stay that way all day.

Sitting on the beach, enjoying the gentle sea breezes and

watching a sailing regatta in the distance is just part of what

make the island so special. At night, particularly when the

moon is full, people return to the beach to build small bonfires

and nibble on impromptu picnics. Don’t be afraid to join in.

Shelter Island is a place to disconnect and recharge and so

everyone’s mood is friendly, chilled and celebratory. It’s about

simple pleasures and enjoying the company of loved ones,

and this is the way Shelter Islanders plan to keep it.


Cleanse, breathe, nourish, repeat. Nicholas Chrisostomou

makes this his mantra during his mountain-top maiden

detox in Switzerland's luxury alpine resort town of St. Moritz

The words ‘retreat’, ‘wellness’ and ‘detox’ seem to be banded about a little too sparingly by the

hospitality industry these days, the latter two especially. Too many resorts are mislabeled as

wellness destinations with barely a decent spa to boot, let alone health-conscious menus,

appropriately trained staff or any of the essential facilities a true wellness retreat must surely

posses to qualify. The same goes for the word ‘detox’. I don't profess to be an expert on the

subject, and had never so much as cleansed my digestive system before, but as I understand it,

detoxing isn't just about abstaining from alcohol, having a colonic or swapping your daily

caffeine fix for herbal teas, although some hotels would have you believe that following these

steps alone will gain you a lifetime membership to the eternal fountain of youth. If only.

94

SPOTLIGHT

Imust admit that I didn't much research the market or

prepare myself in any way for my maiden detox, other

than to blitz Superdry for some hiking boots and

sportswear basics, and stock-up with Hendrick's and a

carrier bag full of chocolates, Haribo and Pringles. I always

say that it pays to be prepared, and let's face it; I had no

real idea of what I had let myself in for. But I was

committed to detox. My normal life tends to consist of an

awful lot of flying, staying in hotels, eating hearty meals -

often at irregular hours, doing less exercise than a man of

my age should, drinking alcohol - occasionally too much,

meeting clients, relying on coffee as a propellant, working

long hours at a computer and very rarely getting 8-hours

sleep. I was prime detox material, or so I had been told in

the past.

I flew into Milan’s Malpensa and was met by Andrea, a

friendly, smartly suited chap from Kempinski Grand Hotel

des Bains. First impressions really are everything. My

luggage was loaded into a shiny new BMW X5 SUV, and I

was whisked out of Italy, into Switzerland and up towards

St. Moritz, the world famous alpine playground of the rich

and famous. At this juncture I must admit that detoxing in

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Via Dimlej 52, CH-7500 St. Moritz

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WELCOME TO MEIEREI ST. MORITZ

Pure nature – at the Meierei the landscape takes centre stage. The hotel is surrounded by a lerch forest and

a spectacular scenery with the best view of the lake and the skyline of St. Moritz. At this wonderful haven

you will definitely find peaceful rest and the centre of St. Moritz is only a 15min short walk away along the

stunning lake promenade. This little gem has 22 country-style rooms with contemporary Engadine design and

a modern spa area with steam room, whirlpool and finnish sauna.

The new culinary concept by renowned Swiss chef Reto Mathis focuses on local, regional and organic products.

How about a sizzling BBQ? For our guests we serve local delicacies fresh off the grill on the sun terrace.

FOR RESERVATIONS T +41 81 838 70 00, WWW.MEIEREI.CH

St. Moritz was a big part of the draw. I’m not a skier, but I’d

been told numerous times that the scenery in the Swiss

Alps was spectacular, and I’ve always been of the opinion

that few things are as good for oneself as high quality fresh

air. What I didn't realise until we began our ascent, was

how divinely scenic the drive would be. Andrea was

charming and informative, set a polite tone from the get-go

and was happy to park up at Chiavenna, a gorgeous little

unspoilt Italian town, close to the border. We sat at a

pavement café, sipped wine and drank coffee. And I bought

two bottles of very fine Barolo, just in case. Then we

continued our journey. Our next stop was the waterfalls of

Acquafraggia, in Piuro, Valchiavenna, located within a still

relatively wild corner of Bregaglia. Kids were playing in the

River Mera below the falls and young lovers were lying in

the sun on its banks. The spot was just lovely and we could

have easily spent the afternoon there, but onwards and

upwards we went, St. Moritz our next stop. By now my

companion and I were relaxed, in good spirits and felt like

we were on a bit of an adventure. The next hour or so was

spent winding up steep, twisting mountain roads and

gazing across serene lakes, until we reached our

destination, late afternoon.

The genuinely warm and friendly welcome we received

at Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains said everything about

the established five-star resort hotel. It was obvious from

the outset that the staff was proud of their property. We

were met by Ljiljana Matic - the hotel’s spa director and

architect of the detox program we were about to embark

upon - herself a picture of health and vitality. Over a glass

of wine she ran through the plan for the next five days and

we completed a few simple forms. Nothing felt clinical,

there were no people in white coats hovering around us

and our luggage wasn't checked for hooch!

Because we were detoxing, we were accommodated in

spacious connected suites in the main building, boasting

direct mountain views, immediately above the hotel’s spa

by www.resensespas.com. Staying a short lift ride and a

few dozen paces away from where we would be having our

detox treatments and morning yoga proved to be a

godsend. Veuve Clicquot was delivered to our rooms (my

companion drank hers - mine was still in the fridge post

detox) and our ‘last supper’ was a healthy, three-course

pre-detox dinner, which included some skinless chicken

and white fish, washed down with a decent bottle of plonk.

We were told that the serious business of detoxing would

start the next morning. And so it did...


Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains’ detox in the mountains

program is based around a series of six, Swiss cold-pressed

organic juices per day, produced by www.fitntasty.ch, one

to be drunk every two hours in a suggested sequence,

starting with a lemon and ginger drink designed to provide

fuel in the mornings. The juices were freshly made and

delivered to us the previous evening, and were

supplemented by three, raw vegan meals per day at normal

times, plus as much herbal or fruit tea and water as we

wanted. Each of us was also given a jar of dried fruits and

raw nuts to fight hunger cravings.

On the first morning our body mass index (BMI) and

basal metabolic rate (BMR) were measured, and the same

would happen at the end of the detox. To be honest the first

day wasn’t as tough as I’d imagined it would be. The lemon

and ginger juice was a tad sharp but easily watered-down.

The biggest problem I had on day one was getting myself

into a basic seated yoga pose, but our instructor, Ivonne

Mazzel, was gentle and patient, and as we progressed

through the detox program, the morning stretching

sessions really set us up for the day. After yoga we met the

hotel’s activities concierge, Wolfgang Hoffman, who was

bursting with enthusiasm to show us the best of Engadin -

the long alpine valley region in the eastern Swiss Alps, in

the middle of which St. Moritz is located.

The high valley of the Engadin, with its wonderfully

varied network of trails, is heaven for hikers, amateurs and

the more experienced alike. The contrasts between gently

sloping hills draped with lush alpine meadows, mountain

streams, mighty glaciers, towering snow-capped peaks and

sparkling lakes is breathtaking, and I was completely

bewitched by the surroundings on my first day outdoors.

Even writing about the scenery gives me goose bumps now

– it really was that stunning. The best way to explore this

unspoiled landscape is on foot – whether hiking along one

of the hundreds of panoramic trails, or walking along

pristine lakes. From the first morning when we took a cable

car up to Signalbahn, and made our way down on foot,

through forests and meadows towards the hotel, I was

hooked by the place. Perhaps this was because I get out ‘n’

about so rarely in my hectic life, or more likely because the

scenery was so beautiful. The abundance of outdoor

activity options, combined with the luxe treatments so

professionally lavished upon us in the hotel’s sprawling

alpine-style spa, made for the perfect detox environment.

Had one or other of these five elements been missing – the

Swiss mountain scenery, the outdoor activities, the detox

spa treatments, the beautifully-presented raw vegan meals

98

or the fresh juices – I would almost certainly have fallen off

the detox wagon the very first night, and attacked the stash

of chocolate and Pringles which was locked in my room

safe. But despite having chilled champagne in my fridge

and a bottle of Hendrick’s on the counter-top looking at me

every day, not once while detoxing was I tempted to deviate

from the plan. I was determined.

Yoga on day two was a little easier, more familiar, but of

the entire program this was the day that I had the least

energy and felt a little fuzzy at times. I wasn’t weak, I just

felt different, like I was going through some sort of

metabolic change. We still got outside, walked, standup

paddle boarded on Lake St. Moritz in the glorious sunshine,

and I had a divine detox massage in the spa. But day two

was the hardest of all.

By day three the juices were working their magic, I

barely needed to eat, I was thinking much more clearly, I

had a spring in my step and I just wanted to get outside

and do stuff - literally anything as long as I was in the fresh

air being active. This Nicholas was unrecognizable to my

companion, who spent more time in the spa being

exfoliated and caressed, while I was in the forest or

stomping around outdoors somewhere.

On the morning of day four I was able to contort my

body into all manner of yoga positions, and I felt like I’d

been injected with the blood of a newborn baby, so clear

was my head and so high were my energy levels. I couldn’t

remember the last time I had felt so alive and energized. So

rejuvenated was I, that literally nothing could stop me from

paragliding off a 3,000m mountain dragging my hesitant

companion with me. And when we horse trekked around

the idyllic Lake Staz I was positively infuriated that we

weren’t allowed to trot let alone canter!

The highlight of all the spa treatments I enjoyed, was a

one-hour advanced medical-grade skin care treatment,

called a HydraFacial (favored by the likes of Kate Winslet

and Beyoncé), after which my face was sparkling and

glowing. A fitting end to an incredible detox experience

during which my mind, body and soul were cleansed, my

heath regime was re-booted, my skin was revived and I lost

two kilos. Most importantly, I left Kempinski Grand Hotel

des Bains with a more positive attitude towards my health

and fitness, more consideration for my body, and a better

awareness of what and when to eat – a new norm which is

set to continue for the foreseeable future.

www.kempinski.com/en/st-moritz/grand-hotel-des-bains

Detox reservations spa.grandhoteldesbains@kempinski.com

100

TRAVELLER

LOWDOWN

Nicholas Chrisostomou takes

a look around Sri Lanka’s 16 th

century Galle Fort, after

spending a few nights relaxing

by the sea at Unawatuna beach

Sri Lanka is one of those destinations either raved

about by your kids' twenty-something backpacking

pals, or lusted after by the super health conscious

for its plentiful yoga retreats and Ayurvedic spas. Yet

for the cultured or frequent traveller, the beauty of Sri Lanka

lies not solely in its spas, but in its proximity to the Middle

East and Asia, for in around four hours flying time, you can

feel the island’s warmth, character, and take advantage of the

abundance of affordable luxury the nation has to offer. Sri

Lanka ticks all the boxes for a long weekend away, or if

jetting-in from further afield, a week of pampering, authentic

experiences and delectable fare.

There was no crazy scrum at the airport when we arrived in

Colombo. Yes, landing at Bandaranaike is a little jolt to the

senses for even the well travelled, and as we exited the

terminal the pavements were overflowing with locals. But

patiently packed together like sardines, they left a narrow

lane between them for passengers to slip through –

“patiently” being the operative word here, since the din of

traffic policemen's whistles combined with the honking of

horns was far more intrusive than the hundreds of people

waiting calmly and sedately for their loved ones to emerge

from the terminus. Welcome to Sri Lanka, a country of

tremendous and charming contrasts, populated by some of

the kindest, calmest and most genuine people in Asia. A

people who’d sooner please tourists in any way possible,

rather than annoy or pester. In this way, the welcome

visitors generally receive when landing on this 140

mile-wide Indian Ocean isle is different in innumerable

ways to the rest of the region.

Our driver didn’t rabbit incessantly during the drive South,

instead furnishing us with pillows and bottled water so that

we could rest, while he deftly steered our air-conditioned

mini-bus through the chaotic traffic, towards the calm we

hoped was awaiting us at the other end. Once safely

ensconced in our hotel, no one knocked on the door asking if

we wanted our room cleaned, refreshed or fluffed-up. Instead

they waited patiently close-by until needed, upon which our

requests were attended to efficiently and politely, after which

they vanished as if by magic. From privately owned vacation

houses to chic boutique hotels, and sprawling beachfront

estates to super-luxe five-star resorts, this furtive yet

attentive, warm and personal service is commonplace

throughout Sri Lanka and is what makes holidaying here so

easy and pleasant.

In 1640 the Dutch landed at Unawatuna, 5 kilometres south

east of Galle. After capturing Galle, they built houses for their

officials in Unawatuna. These days, it’s a lively beach party

town with a colourful selection of shops, resorts and small

hotels, and swimming, sunbaking and surfing the most

popular pastimes. I first discovered Kingfisher when expat

friends took me there for dinner, boasting (as locals often do)

that it served “the best food on the bay”. They weren’t wrong.

The freshly caught line fish was cooked to perfection and

dropped off the bone, local dishes were unpretentious and

not overly spiced, I sipped a delectable South African

Sauvignon Blanc and dined with my feet in the sand. From

102

the get go it was obviously very much a barefoot zone. When I

found out that Kingfisher had bedrooms, I decided right then

that I would stay on my next visit to Sri Lanka.

Being a guest at Kingfisher is like staying at a friend’s place -

familiar, comfortable and stress free. I left my things lying

around like a big kid and nothing was too much trouble for

the active bunch of smiling Sri Lankan boys, in their crisp

white polo shirts, attending to guests’ needs at lightning

speed. Kingfisher has just four bedrooms, each one of which

has direct sea views, with the Indian Ocean barely 50 metres

away from their private balconies. Basic mod cons are

provided, including an oversized walk-in shower, decent air

con and a large flat screen for those who can’t go without

their morning dose of BBC World! But why sleep with the air

con on when you can leave the doors ajar and drift off to the

soothing sound of the waves? I slept like a baby at Kingfisher,

couldn’t get enough of the ginger spice tea in my room, and

was content to give caffeine a miss for a few days. On the

mornings when I woke early enough to catch the sunrise, it

was like creeping downstairs in a sleeping country house,

trying not to wake the dogs or rouse the children. There really

is nothing like walking around in bare feet, day and night, to

instill in oneself a true sense of vacation, and it came as

second nature to not wear shoes at all during my stay at

Kingfisher (www.kingfisherunawatuna.com).

After a few days of R&R it was time to venture out of

Kingfisher and head to the world heritage site of Galle Fort,

fifteen minutes away in the Bay of Galle, close to the island’s

southernmost point, 170kms from Colombo along Sri Lanka’s

southwest coast. Built in 1588 by the Portuguese and fortified

by the Dutch during the 17 th century, Galle Fort was the main

port of call for ships sailing between the East and Europe. This

historical jewel (which thankfully survived the devastating

tsunami of 2004), defended by thick stone walls with the

endless ocean on one side, is now UNESCO protected, and

just one word is sufficient to describe visiting this unique

location - atmospheric - with Dutch and English colonial

styles evident everywhere, especially in the deep verandahs of

Welcome to Sri Lanka, a country of

tremendous and charming contrasts,

populated by some of the kindest, calmest

and most genuine people in Asia

houses supported by timber or masonry pillars. The fort

reached its peak under the rule of the Dutch, providing

spacious housing, wide roads and all necessary facilities

within its walls, including an intricate sewage system that

was ahead of its time. Today the fort’s roads appear to have

hardly changed, like the squares of a chessboard

crisscrossing at regular intervals, with straight and narrow

lanes branching in and out positively inviting in visitors. Had

the tuk-tuks and small cars been invisible, it wouldn't have

been difficult to imagine that I was on a film set, or had been

transported back to the seventeen hundreds.

A number of rather magnificent buildings remain within

the fort’s ramparts, mostly all exuding a great degree of old

worlde charm. Of the numerous colonial structures, one of

the most interesting is the Dutch Reformed Church,

containing ornately carved memorials to the original settlers.

Streets dotted with colonial villas, and bijou museums and

antique shops displaying curios from the island's bygone era,

give way to cutesy shops, independent galleries and upscale

boutiques, perfect for stocking-up on Sri Lankan trinkets,

clothing and locally-crafted goods. It’s particularly hard to

walk past Church Street’s retailers, especially Barefoot, which

sells gorgeous fabrics, authentic art, linen apparels and

handmade jewelry all sourced on the island

(www.barefootceylon.com). In Exotic Roots I bought a

three-wick candle scented with wood and spices, hand

poured into a semi-precious silver filigree-edged jar and

wrapped in a silk drawstring bag. If the candle hadn’t

weighed a kilo I’d have invariably bought more

(www.exoticroots.com). Other standout shops include

Mimimango (joedenmimimango.com), KK

(www.facebook.com/kkcfort/), The Three by TPV

(www.thethreebytpv.com) plus state owned gift emporium,

Laksana, just outside the fort but very worth a visit

(www.laksala.gov.lk).

We rested our shopping legs over lunch at The Fort

Printers, which served Mediterranean-inspired seafood on

crisp linen tablecloths in a beautifully renovated 18 th century

building with high ceilings and large windows

(www.thefortprinters.com). The Printers (as it’s affectionately


Had the tuk-tuks and small cars been

invisible, it wouldn't have been difficult to

imagine that I was on a film set, or had been

transported back to the seventeen hundreds

known by locals) also boasts some rather lovely, characterful

accommodation at various price points. For a quick shot of

caffeine, Pedlar’s Inn Café serves the best Espresso in town.

And one of the best things to do after a day of spending and

sightseeing, is to perch atop the fort’s walls and watch a

beautiful sunset, cocktail in hand.

The fort is home to a selection of beautiful, deluxe hotels

and villas, many of which are privately owned and operated,

making for a personal and tailored stay experience. Galle Fort

Hotel offers large individual rooms, soothing spaces and a

welcoming bar, slap bang in the centre of town, surrounded

by colonial buildings, boutiques and a smattering of

restaurants, yet just a few minutes walk from the coastline.

There’s little to do here but relax and adapt to the slower pace

of life. Ground floor rooms open directly onto the tranquil,

secluded sub-tropical garden oasis and swimming pool. For

me Garden Room 3 was perfect. Luxuriating by Galle Fort

Hotel’s pool was bliss, the absence of sand for a few

afternoons a welcome respite from the beaches

(www.galleforthotel.com).

At the pinnacle of Galle Fort’s accommodation ladder is

Amangalla, reputedly Asia's oldest hotel having operated

continuously since 1865. Housed in a former governor’s

mansion, Amangalla is the area’s most famous hotel and an

unbeatably luxurious and laid-back place to stay, eat and just

‘be’. Amangalla Spa - located within a row of whitewashed

knocked-through shops - has a calm, verging on church-like

feel and is the best retreat within the fort to relax, kick-back

and be pampered in style

(www.amanresorts.com/amangalla).

There are very few original, inhabited forts in the world, which

haven’t either been completely overrun by tourist traps, or

ruined by unsightly modern buildings, which wreck their

authentic settings. A stunning living, breathing and

flourishing heritage site - just a few hours drive from the

country’s capital - no visit to Sri Lanka is complete without

spending time within the charismatic ramparts of Galle Fort,

undoubtedly the best-preserved sea fort in South Asia.


108

TA

TE

& S SIP

REVIEW

ROUX AT

THE LANDAU

LONDON

Food

Atmosphere

Decades ago London was the culinary laughing stock of

the gastronomic world. Stodgy cuisine, shoddy service

and uninspired dining experiences were the norm.

Now however, London proudly takes it place as a global

culinary capital. A dynamism, diversity and buzz permeates

the London restaurant scene that continues to dazzle and

surprise. Restaurant institutions such as the The Wolseley, J

Sheekey and Scott’s now vie with newer but similarly

established entrants like Bocca di Lupo, Gymkhana, and

Chiltern Firehouse to offer consistently superior experiences

that combine great cuisine and fun. The food scene has

become much more representative of the melting pot that

London is. South Asian, Italian, Middle Eastern, Japanese and

Peruvian are just an abbreviated list of the global cuisines

currently on offer in the British capital at very high standards.

Gentrified Shoreditch in the East End and centrally-located

Soho, Fitzrovia and Marylebone have paved the way for

numerous successful new restaurant openings, as London

and the Waterside Inn. When his father, Albert, retired in 1991,

Michel Jr became the chef de cuisine at Le Gavroche. It should

then come as no surprise, that when London’s Langham Hotel

were looking to revamp their flagship restaurant, they turned

to Albert Roux and Michel Roux Jr to create the elegant Roux

at the Landau which opened in 2010.

The Langham was built in the 1860s, represents one of

London’s finest examples of Victorian architecture and

remains one of the capital’s most exclusive hotels. It is

centrally located in a genteel neighbourhood, yet only mere

minutes from the art galleries of Mayfair, the luxury boutiques

of Bond Street, and bustling Marylebone. The worldwide

headquarters of the BBC, Broadcasting House, and the

landmark All Souls Church are just across the street. The

Langham is the perfect host for Roux and the Landau, at the

lower end of Portland Place, in the epicentre of Oxford and

Regent Streets with Park Crescent and Regent’s Park beyond.

MICHEL ROUX JR

GRILLED DOVER SOLE

has become more exciting to visit than ever before.

UK-based and globally renowned celebrity chefs including

Marco Pierre White, Heston Blumenthal, Gordon Ramsay and

Yotam Ottolenghi continue to leave their culinary mark on

the city and raise London’s restaurant profile. Having always

been a world-class city in terms of museums, galleries,

theatre, fashion and shopping, London can now be

considered truly world class in its culinary offerings as well.

The Roux brothers, Albert and Michel, are French émigrés to

the United Kingdom. They opened Le Gavroche on Lower

Sloane Street in Mayfair almost 50 years ago and later opened

Waterside Inn in Berkshire. Their culinary pioneering took

London and British restaurants to much higher levels. In 1974,

Le Gavroche became the first restaurant in the UK to receive a

Michelin star, in 1977 the first to receive two stars and in

1982, the first to receive three. It excels at classic French

cooking. Albert’s son, Michel Jr, trained at both Le Gavroche

Although one can access the restaurant through the lively

lobby of the Langham, Roux at the Landau has its own

private entrance off the street. Arriving through the front

door is like being greeted at someone’s elegant and inviting

private home. There is no immediate sense of theatre or

desperate need to impress guests. On the contrary, the front

of house experience is calm, professional and welcoming.

The proportions of the space, the décor, and the

attentiveness of the staff speak for themselves. The colour

palette is soft. The period detailing, including painted wood

paneling and soaring ceilings, feels a little Parisian. From the

entrance it’s a short walk - past floor-to-ceiling wine stores

- to the main dining room.

The large oval dining room is expertly laid out and is a

vision of understated elegance. On one side the space is

flanked by a curved parade of oversized windows

overlooking Portland Place, while on the others there is more

wood paneling. During the daytime and early evening,


natural light floods the space. At night the lighting is

flawless. Wide plank floors and gold decorative accents help

to create both a homely and sophisticated ambience.

Seating is a mix of banquettes around the perimeter and

stand alone tables in the center. Roux at the Landau is a

restaurant for special occasions or any occasion that you

want to make a touch more special, discreet yet grand, or

formal without being pretentious. The dress code is smart

casual and unstuffy.

While the Roux family excels at opening and sustaining

successful restaurants, it is their classic French cooking that

remains at their core. At Roux at the Landau, father Albert

Roux, his son, Michel Jr along with Head Chef, Oliver Boon,

deliver exactly that, but with modern influences using the

best British produce. For lunch and dinner, set menus at

various price points change with seasons, with the option of

wine pairing. In the evenings a tasting menu is also

available. Diners may also order à la carte. Whatever dishes

are chosen, guests are in excellent hands. On a recent visit

for my birthday, we allowed our knowledgeable waiter to

guide us as to how to order and were very pleased with the

results. Pink shortbread with salmon mousse was served as

an amuse-bouche and freshly baked Comté cheese bread

rolls were doled out. I asked for more.

As a starter, I opted for Orkney scallops served with girolle

mushrooms and watercress purée. The Orkney Islands, north

of Scotland, lie between the Atlantic Ocean and North Sea,

allowing for unique tidal currents that create the ideal

growing conditions for some of the world’s best scallops.

Their sweetness of the mollusks worked perfectly with the

nutty and peppery notes of the girolles. My dining

companion selected octopus carpaccio, which was razor

thin, succulent and flavourful.

For mains, we both opted for fish – Dover sole and turbot.

They were excellent. In the right hands, as they were at Roux at

RAGOUT OF ENGLISH ASPARAGUS, JERSEY ROYALS, MORELS

the Landau, Dover sole and turbot are the Rolls Royce and

Bentley of fish. Both are flat, native to the North Atlantic and

famed for their white subtly flavoured meat. The sole was

served with herb butter, small clams and a potato crouton,

while the turbot came braised, served with white asparagus,

morels and Jersey Royals. Jersey Royals are potatoes grown

exclusively on the island of Jersey by a mere 20 individual

farmers and are prized for their distinctive taste and smaller

size. If French cooking has a weakness, it is perhaps the over

use of cream sauces and butter, but this was not the case here.

Our desserts were also perfectly executed. Maple ice

cream and salted pecans complimented a bitter chocolate

mille-feuille. A Grand Marnier Soufflé, accented with hints of

orange marmalade, was served with a rich chocolate sorbet

submerged in its center. The result was pure heaven.

Scrumptious petit fours arrived with tea and coffee. Once again,

I asked for more. Food and service were faultless throughout.

The hidden gem of Roux at the Landau is Postillion, its

intimate private dining room, located just off the main

entrance. With a seated capacity of eighteen and standing

for 35, it is the perfect private space for a special birthday,

wedding, anniversary or festive meeting. The glamorous

contemporary interior was conceived by the renowned,

David Collins. Lavender upholstered seating adds a splash

of style to the graceful room. High ceilings and large

windows dominate the space. Understandably, Postillion is

much in demand.

Lovely is a word that is used often in British English. In the

truest sense of the word, it means something that is

exceptionally attractive, beautiful and graceful. It intimates

harmony, delight and sublime pleasantness. It is in this

manner that Roux at the Landau can be described as truly

lovely in every way.

POSTILLION

Roux At The Landau

Food:

Atmosphere:

Head chef: Oliver Boon

Address: 1C Portland Place, London W1B 1JA, UK

Telephone: +44 207 636 1000

Email: book@therouxatthelandau.com

Website: www.rouxatthelandau.com

Cuisine: French

Opening hours: Mon - Fri 07:00 -10:30, 12:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 22:30

Sat 07:00 - 11:00, 17:30 - 22:30

Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 15:00

Lunch price: 3-course set lunch GBP 39 or GBP 47 inc. half bottle wine.

Dinner price: Tasting menu GBP 70 or GBP 120 with wine pairing.

Reservations: Essential

Wheelchair access: Yes

Children: Welcome. High chairs available. No kids menu.

Credit Cards: All major

Parking: Valet GBP 35

Reviewed by Alex Benasuli for dinner on 28 July 2016.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.


Pierre Koffman

Eileen Atkins

Mick Jagger

The Beatles

Nigel Havers

Dennis Potter

Sienna Miller

Peter Blake

Marco Pierre White

Sam Smith

Eartha Kit

Joe Orton Peter Cook

Imelda Staunton

Francis Bacon

Beryl Cook

Lucien Freud

Laurence Olivier

Janis Joplin

Coco

Frankie Howard

Chanel

Ella Fitzgerald

Diana

General de Gualle

Stephen Fry

Marianne Faithfull

Kenneth Halliwell

Dudley Moore

Danny La Rue

Elton Joh

Paloma Faith

Edward Heath

Cleo Laine

Judi Dench

Frank Sinatra

A SoHo Institution

Since 1927

Restaurant & Club Privé

Bar, Restaurant

& Club Privé

L’ Escargot

Depuis 1927

•

48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF

Telephone 020 7494 1318 www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk

Monday to Sunday:

All day until 1am

TA

TE

& S SIP

INTERVIEW

MICHEL ROUX JR

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER INTERVIEWS

THE MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF ABOUT LE

GAVROCHE TURNING 50, THE LONDON

RESTAURANT SCENE, MARATHON

RUNNING AND COOKING AT HOME

IMAGES BY ISSY CROKER

114

COOKING AND RUNNING RESTAURANTS

ARE IN YOUR BLOOD. AT WHAT JUNCTURE

DID YOU REALISE IT WAS YOUR PASSION?

I was always in the kitchen as a child,

watching my father cook, as well as my

mother, who is also an absolutely fantastic

cook, so my passion grew from there really.

Actually I was very nearly born on the

kitchen table! Even as a small child, my

father would make me try a wine or sample

a cheese, and so gastronomy is genuinely

in my blood. There wasn’t a definitive

moment that I can point to, it’s just

something I always knew I wanted to do.

DO YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST MEAL OR

DISH THAT AWAKENED YOUR PALETTE?

My father’s hand churned vanilla ice cream.

I’ll never forget it and I’ve never had ice

cream that tastes so good ever since!

WHEN IT WAS OPENED IN 1967 BY YOUR

FATHER, ALBERT, AND UNCLE, MICHEL,

LE GAVROCHE REVOLUTIONISED FINE

DINING IN LONDON. YOU WERE SEVEN

YEARS OLD WHEN THE RESTAURANT

OPENED AND OSTENSIBLY GREW UP AS

IT CONTINUED TO ACHIEVE SUCCESS.

WHAT WAS THAT LIKE AND WHAT

VALUES DID IT LEAVE YOU WITH?

As you say, I was only seven when the

restaurant opened and that was a very long

time ago! I’d pop in to say hello but wasn’t

fully aware of what was going on. I

remember being enthralled by the hustle

and bustle of the kitchen. As I grew older

and understood what a culinary landmark

my father and uncle had created, what was

clear was the absolute importance of hard

work and passion. To make a real success

of anything you have to be entirely

dedicated.

LE GAVROCHE HAS BEEN CONSISTENTLY

RANKED AS ONE OF THE BEST

RESTAURANTS IN LONDON. WHY DO YOU

THINK THIS REMAINS THE CASE AND

WHAT, IN YOUR OPINION, IS THE SECRET

OF ITS SUCCESS?

We are celebrating our 50th birthday next

year and we are as busy as ever. What is

so special about Le Gavroche is that we have never

apologised for sticking to our classic French roots, and

people appreciate that. Of course the dishes have

changed slightly to suit a more modern palate, but our

service style, décor, and the heart of each dish remains

the same. That’s actually becoming rarer and rarer,

especially in London.

AT THE AGE OF 19 YOU JOINED THE TEAM AT LE

GAVROCHE. WHAT WAS IT LIKE TO ENTER THE FAMILY

BUSINESS AT SUCH A YOUNG AGE AND WHAT WAS YOUR

FIRST JOB?

I left school at sixteen and joined Le Gavroche three years

later after I’d completed an apprenticeship with Maître

Patissier Hellegouarch in Paris. Mastering the fundamentals

of French pastry, as many great chefs will tell you, is the

best way to start in the cookery business. Once you have

mastered that, you can conquer anything!

WHAT ADVICE DID YOUR

FATHER GIVE YOU WHEN

YOU TOOK OVER THE HELM

OF LE GAVROCHE IN 1993?

My father’s advice to me has

always been, ‘listen to Albert

Roux.’

WITH OVER 40 YEARS

EXPERIENCE IN THE

KITCHEN, VARIOUS

MICHELIN STARS, AND

COUNTLESS JUDGING

ROLES IN CULINARY

COMPETITIONS, WHAT ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT

QUALITIES THAT MAKE A GREAT CHEF STANDOUT FROM A

GOOD CHEF?

More than anything a great chef must absolutely and

universally love what he does. Whatever style you choose to

cook, stay dedicated, never stop learning and never stop

asking questions.

HAVE YOU EVER HAD TO DIG DEEP INSIDE TO OVERCOME

ADVERSITY? PLEASE SHARE WITH OUR READERS ANY

WORDS OF WISDOM REGARDING PERSEVERANCE AND

SUSTAINING LONGEVITY.

Le Gavroche as a restaurant has gone through a lot of

adversity, recessions and depressions, not to mention the

IRA bombings. What’s important though is to stay positive

and continue to strive to attain absolute culinary excellence.

And, zmost importantly, always ensure that your guests

constantly come first.

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Mastering the

fundamentals of French

pastry, as many great

chefs will tell you, is the

best way to start in the

cookery business

THE CELEBRITY CHEF HAS BECOME A SOMETHING OF A

TREND IN THE GASTRONOMIC WORLD OF TODAY. DO YOU

THINK IT HAS IT GONE TOO FAR? DOES IT MAKE FOR

ADVANCING STANDARDS AND BETTER OVERALL

RESTAURANT EXPERIENCES? AND ARE THERE ANY

DOWNSIDES TO ALL THE MEDIA FRENZY SURROUNDING

CHEF AND COOKING COMPETITIONS?

I have always said that I am a kitchen chef first, and

television is an addition to my day job. When it comes to

celebrity chefs and TV, anything that gets people excited

about cooking from scratch, and learn to love food or

rediscover food, is a good thing. However, TV can glorify the

chef and put us on a pedestal. I do worry about that,

because it can sometimes bring young people into our

industry for the wrong reasons.

THE ROUX SCHOLARSHIP WAS STARTED SOME 30 YEARS

AGO AS A WAY, IN PART, TO GIVE BRITISH-BORN CHEFS

THE EXPERIENCE AND

GUIDANCE NEEDED TO

GROW INTO EXCEPTIONAL

CHEFS. HOW HAS THE

FOCUS OF THE

SCHOLARSHIP EVOLVED

OVER THE YEARS, AND IN

WHAT DIRECTION DO YOU

SEE IT GOING?

The Roux Scholarship is now

in the hands of my cousin

Alain Roux and myself. We

may tweak it in the future –

it may not necessarily stay

true to hard-core Escoffier

recipes but it will definitely always include classic cooking

techniques.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE AN EMERGING CHEF

TODAY?

Stay focused, and always, always take plenty of notes.

WHEN IS THE RIGHT TIME FOR AN EMERGING CHEF TO

STRIKE OUT ON HIS OR HER OWN AND OPEN THEIR OWN

RESTAURANT?

It’s very difficult to say. Running a restaurant isn’t just

about being a great chef, you also have to have a very good

understanding of business. So many restaurants close

down too quickly because the business plan just wasn’t

quite right. A successful chef knows his or her weaknesses

as well as their strengths.

AS A FRENCHMAN BORN IN THE UK WITH EXTENSIVE

WORK AND PERSONAL EXPERIENCE IN BOTH COUNTRIES,

WHAT DO YOU DRAW UPON AS THE BEST OF EACH

CULTURE?

Manchester United and Eric Cantona – the best of both

worlds! In all seriousness, at its heart my cooking style will

always be classically French, since it’s in my blood!

However the produce that can be sourced in Britain is

absolutely world-class.

YOU ARE AN ACCOMPLISHED MARATHON RUNNER. WHAT

HAS TRAINING FOR MARATHONS TAUGHT YOU ABOUT

YOUR CHOSEN PROFESSION AND VICE-A-VERSA?

It’s all about dedication and willpower. Some days in the

kitchen or whilst I’m in training, I feel full of energy and joy

and so it’s easy. On other days not so much, but the

willpower to get on with it and do it to my best ability

applies to both cooking in a professional kitchen and

training, since both are very

physically challenging.

CAN FRENCH FOOD EVER BE

LOW FAT, HEALTH

CONSCIOUS AND STILL

TASTE GOOD?

Of course! Yes we use a lot of

butter and cream in French

cooking but its soul is great

produce cooked simply, and

“All in moderation”, as they

say. I have written a

cookbook for those interested

in getting fit - The Marathon

Chef - but the recipes are not all French.

What is so special about

Le Gavroche is that we

have never apologised

for sticking to our

classic French roots, and

people appreciate that

together. Fresh vegetables, fresh fruit, salads, plus some

meat, fish or cheese. Pasta also often features at home. I’m

lucky that my wife, Giselle, is a wonderful cook and knows

what I like. In terms of comfort food, you can’t beat a good

roast chicken.

HOW HAS THE LONDON RESTAURANT SCENE EVOLVED

OVER THE DECADES? WHAT DO YOU THINK THE CURRENT

CHEFS IN LONDON DO DIFFERENTLY THAN IN OTHER

CITIES?

London is a melting pot of gastronomy. You can travel

the culinary world via London’s restaurants and the

capital’s residents are thoroughly spoilt when eating out.

Over the years, Londoners have really developed a

passion and dedication for food, and they seem to spend

increasingly more time and money eating than doing

anything else!

APART FROM YOU OWN

RESTAURANTS, WHERE DO

YOU LIKE TO DINE OUT?

If I’m staying local to home in

Clapham, I like Trinity, Bistro

Union, May the Fifteenth and

Gastro. They all serve

fantastic food and service

always comes with a smile. If

it’s an occasion, I like L’Atelier

de Joël Robuchon, The Ritz,

and Alain Ducasse at The

Dorchester. All three all

superb examples of

restaurants which serve high

quality French cuisine in London.

IS THERE SUCH A THING AS ENGLISH OR BRITISH

CUISINE? WHAT DO YOU THINK GREAT BRITAIN EXCELS

AT CULINARY WISE?

What I love so much about Britain is the mix of cultures and

how much that has affected the way we eat. Of course

there are fantastic British staples like wonderful pies, fish

and chips, etc. Londoners are especially obsessed with food,

and because of that the way we eat out and at home have

changed dramatically over the years. What we excel at is

bringing cultures together, and sampling the best of

everything.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO COOK AT HOME FOR FRIENDS AND

FAMILY, AND WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE COMFORT FOOD?

When I’m at home I like to keep it as simple as possible,

and cook as a family because it’s fun and brings us all

IF YOU WERE TO WRITE AN “INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

LONDON” WHAT WOULD YOU INCLUDE?

Go running in Hyde Park, head to Albert Bridge for the view,

check out The Dairy in Clapham, get to Billingsgate market

in the early hours of the morning and continue to explore.

Most of London’s best bits are hidden away and must be

uncovered to be enjoyed.

WHERE IN THE WORLD DO YOU MOST LIKE TO UNWIND

AND RELAX, AND WHEN THERE DO YOU STILL PREFER TO

COOK?

My family home in France, not far from Lyon, is my favourite

place to relax. We are a big family of chefs, so we all pitch in

with the cooking and it becomes something of an event. When

I’m travelling overseas I like to discover local restaurants,

since I feel it’s the best way to get to know a new area.

118

TA

S TE

& SIP

THE FOOD

ICED RED BERRY

SOUFFLÉ

FROM LE GAVROCHE COOKBOOK BY

MICHEL ROUX JR

INGREDIENTS

1kg mixed berries (e.g. strawberries,

raspberries, blueberries, blackcurrants), +

extra to decorate

4 egg whites

400g caster sugar

Juice of 1 lemon

500ml water

80ml whipping cream

METHOD

Hull and, if necessary, wash the fruit. Blend

with 150g of the sugar, then pass through a

fine sieve and add lemon juice to heighten

the taste if required. Prepare 10 individual

soufflé dishes (9cm diameter x 6cm deep)

by tying a piece of greaseproof paper around

the edge to form a collar that stands 5cm

above the rim.

Put the egg whites into the bowl of an

electric mixer. In a perfectly clean saucepan,

dissolve the remaining 250g of sugar in the

water over low heat. When the sugar as

completely dissolved, bring to the boil, skim

off the foam and cook to 120C / 250F on a

sugar thermometer. Beat the egg whites

until foamy, then, with the whisk still

running, pour the hot sugar directly on the

egg whites, avoiding the beaters. Continue

beating until the meringue is cool.

Whip the cream until soft peaks form and

fold into the fruit pulp. Delicately fold in the

meringue, then spoon into the prepared

soufflé dishes. Freeze for 12 hours.

Decorate with fresh berries and, if you like,

serve with a sauce made by pureeing 500g

berries with 100g caster sugar, sharpening

the taste with a little lemon juice.

120

122

TA

S TE

& SIP

THE FOOD

SOFT BOILED EGG

WITH SMOKED

SALMON,

ASPARAGUS TIPS

& CAVIAR

FROM LE GAVROCHE COOKBOOK BY

MICHEL ROUX JR

INGREDIENTS

30 small asparagus tips

4 slices of smoked salmon

2 tablespoons double cream

2 tablespoons horseradish relish

4 eggs

120g sevruga caviar

Olive oil

12 round brioche bread toasts (1cm thick,

3-5cm wide)

METHOD

1. Peel the asparagus and trim to 4cm

lengths

2. Cook in boiling salted water until just

tender (5-7 minutes), then immediately

refresh in ice-cold water and drain

3. Cut the smoked salmon into 18 rounds,

using a cutter the same diameter as the

brioche

4. Whip the cream and add the horseradish

relish

5. Cook the eggs in boiling water for 3 ½

minutes, hold under cold running water

for 10 second and then peel while still

hot

6. Put the eggs into a warm dish and break

them up with a fork (the yolks should be

runny and the whites solid)

7. Season with a little pepper and gently

fold in the caviar

8. Reheat the asparagus in boiled salted

water, drain and roll in a little olive oil to

make them glossy

To assemble, put a small dollop of

horseradish cream in the centre of each

plate, then a smoked salmon round, more

horseradish and then the lightly toasted

brioche slice. Repeat the layers to finish

with two brioches and three smoked

salmon rounds on each plate. Arrange the

asparagus on top and spoon the egg and

caviar mixture around.

TA

TE

& S SIP

NEWCOMER

LA PETITE

MAISON

BEIRUT

On the edge of Old Nice, a short walk from the famous

Promenade des Anglais, Nicholas Rubi’s orginal La Petite

Maison is now a local institution and arguably the Riviera's

most coveted restaurant, serving a well-heeled set of

glittering regulars, politicians, actors, models and public

alike. Rubi goes to great lengths to ensure that each guest

enjoys the same high standard of service. It's even written

on the walls, “Everyone's famous here", and since

expanding the brand beyond the South of France, highly

respected international restaurateur, Arjun Waney, has

maintained this mantra, making La Petite Maison a

contemporary French gastronomic destination in London

and Dubai, set to open in Miami and Abu Dhabi by the end of

2017. What brings-in diners again and again is food of a

consistently high standard, brisk and attentive service and a

buzzing atmosphere. The design of the dining room is

undoubtedly core to the success of a LPM restaurant. With

its white walls, bright natural light and original, quirky

artworks, diners are effectively transported to somewhere

along the French Riviera irrespective of which branch they’re

frequenting, and LPM outposts boast a rare, bustling energy,

brimming with a sense of occasion and an air of

anticipation. It’s not just the food - it’s the whole ensemble.

The welcome, the bar, the vibrant dining room, classic

French cuisine, good-looking staff, and last but not least, the

people watching. So it was hardly surprising that LPM Beirut

didn’t quite take off in its first location - a somewhat

hidden-away, elongated first floor restaurant within a hotel,

with no sense of arrival and limited people watching

possibilities. The Lebanese love to eat and hugely enjoy the

sense of occasion dressing-up and arriving to dine affords

them. Take that away and you delete one of the main

reasons many residents of Beirut go out to eat at all.

In it’s swanky new street–level location - within a

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modern building edged by the restaurant quarter, between

Starco and Beirut Souk - LPM is now as easily accessible as

is its sister restaurants – and in close proximity to the city’s

downtown heart. This is where LPM Beirut should have been

all along – right in the upscale downtown thick of the

Lebanese capital, within a stone’s throw of the designer

shopping and financial hub.

Inspired by its South of France heritage, the open-plan

high-ceilinged interior of the 90-seater dining room is crisp,

chic and understated, with warm caramel-coloured leather

armchairs beckoning you to sit. This is a restaurant that

invites you in to lounge, eat, laugh and enjoy, and if you

start an evening at LPM Beirut with a cocktail at the

handcrafted brass bar (as The Cultured Traveller did), you

may never make it to your table, such is the warm and

friendly nature of its mixologists and the command of the

dining room from atop a bar stool.

Daytime diners are bathed in floods of natural daylight

courtesy of huge floor-to-ceiling glass-curtain windows,

whilst the gaze of evening guests is drawn towards the

restaurant’s eclectic, handpicked art collection, hanging all

around. Curated by Bob Ramchand, it provides a veritable

feast for the eyes, and includes pieces by Youssef Aoun, El

Habre and Jean Boghossian, as well as works by talented

younger artists, including fast-rising painter, Yasmina Nysten.

Coupled with the fine, exquisitely-presented Nicoise-inspired

cuisine courtesy of chef patron Raphael Duntoye, and under

the guidance of attentive and highly affable general manager

Yannick Chaloyard, La Petite Maison Beirut, in its new

incarnation, is undoubtedly here to stay, with few restaurants

in the Middle East’s most cosmopolitan metropolis able to

match its unique mélange of food and art.


www.lpmbeirut.com

OMAR

PUENTE

126

music&

NIGHT

LIFE

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER INTERVIEWED THE

MUCH-CELEBRATED, GENTLE YET CHARISMATIC

CUBAN-BORN VIOLINIST AND JAZZ MUSICIAN,

ABOUT GROWING UP IN CUBA, STUDYING MUSIC

IN HAVANA, PERFORMING AROUND WORLD AND

HIS NEW ALBUM, BEST FOOT FORWARD

You were born in 1962, just after the Cuban Revolution,

your father a doctor and your mother a nurse. What do

you recall of growing-up in that interesting time?

I remember there was always music playing at home, from

classical to pop. Being educated was an important part of the

revolution, and my parents encouraged me to learn music. My

Dad bought me a toy violin when I was about 5 years old,

which I loved and always played, along with other toy

instruments that I rarely put down back then.

I recall on my way to and from music school every day, in

Santiago de Cuba, I had to pass in front of the house of the

Trova, a group of musicians earning their living by singing and

playing the guitar. Trova musicians, including the famous

Compay Segundo, gathered at Casa de la Trova, sang

traditional songs, were very important in the evolution of

Cuban popular music, and me hearing them was very much a

part of my early musical education.

What attracted you to music as a child in Cuba?

I was always surrounded by music. My father played violin

and my aunt played piano so music was always on the menu!

You began playing the violin at the age of eight, and as a

teenager your mother moved the family to Havana so you

could study at music school. How did life change for you

and your family when you moved to the Cuban capital?

Before we moved to Havana I lived at school without my

family because of my music scholarship. In my teens I could

have easily been distracted away from music, but my

mother’s support in moving us all to Havana, so that we could

be together as a family, was invaluable in keeping me

focused during my teenage years.

Tell us about attending music school in Havana in the

1970s.

The 70s was a time of

discovery for me. I went to

Havana on my own and

everything was new for me. I

absorbed music, dance,

theatre, ballet and nightlife. I

remember attending the

Havana Jazz Festival early on,

and was so excited by all the

great artists, like American jazz

fusion band, Weather Report,

which hugely influenced my

life and career.

Who were your musical

influences as a young

violinist, and who is your biggest inspiration today?

Many musicians have influenced my life, from Nat King Cole

to Chucho Valdéz, from Rubén González to Earth, Wind and

Fire, not forgetting American jazz saxophonist and composer

John Coltrane. But the biggest, life changing musical

influence for me was Weather Report, with its instrumental

jazz fusion album, Black Market, released in 1976. Musicians

Joe Zawinul, Wayne Shorter, Peter Erskine and Jaco Pastorius

all made their Weather Report recording debuts on Black

Market.

Were there moments when you ever doubted that you

would be successful?

Many. Being part of a medical family, I spent a year studying

to become a doctor, like my father, before realising that my

love and passion was for the violin, not medicine.

What is your favourite musical era or genre to play?

128

My Dad bought me a toy

violin when I was about

5 years old, which I

loved and always

played, along with other

toy instruments that I

rarely put down back then

I love many types of music. As a Cuban, I obviously love

Cuban music, but I spent years studying classical music and I

love that too. For me jazz is the most complete genre, and

allows the freedom of different influences to come together.

Do you recall your first performance away from your

homeland?

My first performance out of Cuba was in Mexico in 1986, on my

way to play at the Latin Jazz Festival in Central Park, New York.

Tell us about your ‘sound’, where it came from and what

makes Omar Puente unique as a violinist?

I play an electric violin, which levels the modern sound. At the

same time, as a jazz musician, I am fascinated with the

phrasing used by saxophone and trumpet players, and I

embody some of that in my playing.

Where and when was your

most memorable

performance as a

professional violinist, and

please can you share with us

how you felt?

It’s hard to say, because every

place, village or country has

something different to say or

contribute. I have played at the

Royal Albert Hall, the Royal

Festival Hall and many other

wonderful venues in Europe,

America and the Middle East.

The most memorable was

probably Brazil - a country

where people eat, sleep and breathe music, and very much

reminds me of my homeland, Cuba. Also, harmonically and

rhythmically Brazilian people love to listen to and share their

music.

Which violinist do you feel has contributed most to the

increased popularity of the instrument?

There are several, including Jean-Luc Ponty, Didier Lockwood,

Regina Carter and of course French jazz violinist, Stéphane

Grappelli, who founded one of the first all-string jazz bands,

Quintette du Hot Club de France, with guitarist Django

Reinhardt in 1934. The unstoppable Grappelli has been called

"the grandfather of jazz violinists" and continued playing well

into his 80s.

Tell us about some of your career highlights to date, and

what made them special.

My collaboration with The Simón Bolívar Youth Orchestra of

Venezuela, because it was great to have the opportunity to

work with the younger musical generation. My collaboration

with The Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, based in London, was

a little different because I played very complicated, intricate

music combining classical and jazz. My collaboration with

John Williams was special simply because I got to play with

the legendary classical guitarist. Working with Cuban ballet

dancer, Carlos Acosta, was a new chapter in my musical

career, writing music for a ballet. I must also mention violin

virtuoso, Nigel Kennedy, with whom I have played on several

occasions, every one being special.

You have toured everywhere from America and Mexico to

the Philippines and Indonesia. What is the favourite

country you have performed in and why?

It has to be Brazil, because of the atmosphere and the

memories that it evokes for me.

How did you meet your wife,

British music journalist

Debbie Purdy?

We met in Singapore, where I

was working, and she

interviewed me for a jazz

magazine. The article she wrote

about me was very kind!

How did it feel when you

arrived in the UK in 1997 for

the very first time?

I flew in from Malaysia, and so

it was quite a shock to first

experience the UK on a cold

February morning.

How does living in Yorkshire compare to Cuba?

I live in a very multicultural area, and as an artist I think that it

is beneficial to be exposed to the many different influences.

Cuba also has multiple facets and influences, but the mix in

each place is unique.

You travel extensively to perform in different countries.

What is your favourite hotel in the world and why?

I stayed at a Hilton hotel in Japan which was phenomenal. I

loved the fact that the entrance to the metro was inside the

lobby. I enjoyed the rotating line-up of different live

entertainment at the grand Singapore Marriott Hotel on

Orchard Road. The Grand Hyatt in Doha looked after me royally

and gave me the biggest hotel room I had ever stayed in.

If you could work with any one living musician who would

130

As a black violin player,

I like to think that I’m a

role model for young

black people for whom

violin would not

normally be considered

an on-trend instrument

it be and why?

Sonny Rollins, the great American jazz tenor saxophonist. He

has charisma and tenacity, and I love the way that he has

evolved and adapted his style.

Now that relations have substantially thawed with the

States, can you ever see yourself living in Cuba again?

Not because of the change in relations with the States. I

always consider myself to be Cuban, I visit, play and teach

there regularly, and, yes, I could live in Cuba again.

You often teach in London, Havana and Leeds. Are the

musical youth of today as hungry for success and

international recognition as you were as a young man

learning your instrument in Cuba?

I teach at a higher level where students are already

committed to their music, but I have been involved in various

projects – including the UK’s In

Harmony music programme,

which allows students to use

music discipline as a way to

prepare for life, and supports

social wellbeing and the

positive aspirations of children

in deprived communities. As a

black violin player, I like to

think that I’m a role model for

young black people for whom

violin would not normally be

considered an on-trend

instrument!

How and where does Omar

Puente relax and switch-off?

In Cuba at my family home.

Please tell us about your new album ‘Best Foot Forward’.

Best Foot Forward is the result of me living, working, learning,

practicing and being married to a British woman for twenty

years, and is my vision of showcasing a different style

through my violin, by putting my violin centre stage without

losing my roots. The album tour has been supported by Arts

Council England – a government-funded body dedicated to

promoting the performing, visual and literary arts in England

– for which I am hugely grateful.

What’s next for Omar Puente?

I have been writing the music for a musical about the role of

Cuban women in the pre-revolutionary era. And I am

preparing for a UK tour in the Autumn.

www.omarpuente.com

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GLOBETROTTER

SINCE HIS CENTRAL SAINT MARTIN’S GRADUATE COLLECTION IN 1994,

ANTONIO BERARDI HAS FUSED HIS SICILIAN AND BRITISH BACKGROUND TO

ESTABLISH A BEAUTIFUL AESTHETIC - SIMPLE, ELEGANT, UNDERCUT WITH

FEMME-FATALE COOLNESS – AS WELL AS A RESILIENT INTERNATIONAL

BUSINESS. HERE THE WORLD FAMOUS DESIGNER TALKS TO THE CULTURED

TRAVELLER ABOUT HIS WORK, UP-AND-COMING FASHION TALENT, HIS

OLD FRIEND, JOHN GALLIANO, AND BRUNO, HIS BULL TERRIER.

You graduated in 1994 at Central Saint Martins - a London

institution that has seen more cultural landmarks than

perhaps any other. Please tell us a little about your time

there.

St.Martin’s at the time was a legendary place. It was a

crumbling pleasuredome, where you saw almost nothing.

There was no work displayed, people tended to work in

secret, and most times, critiques were done in private. You

had nothing to go by, bar the fact that everyone there

wanted to be a famous designer, everyone that entered

those hallowed doors, had big ideas and major dreams, and

everyone was determined to shine as brightly as the skies

deemed possible. It was about the drive and the strive, and

you had to play the game. Parties, the club-scene, shopping

in the right places, people needed to know who you were,

right from the beginning. Door-whores had to know who

you were, and the St. Martins moniker un-locked doors that

you never thought possible. It was a magical, mysterious

and utterly bewildering place that is the hardest thing to

describe, but it was amazing !!!

Who were your biggest fashion influences in your teens?

My mother, Angie Dickinson, I.D., The Face, Blitz magazines,

Romeo Gigli, Azzedine Alaia, Gianfranco Ferre, John

Galliano, Katherine Hamnett, Yohji Yamamoto, Erich Von

Stroheim and any silent movie I could get my hands on.

What was it like working as John Galliano’s assistant, and

what did you take away from the experience?

Working with John was perhaps the greatest experience of

all. I started off as his production assistant (I got the job on

the same day I had my interview at St. Martins, and started

the same day), and I learned the hard way. From there, I

progressed to researching, and then prints and

embroideries, sourcing with Amanda Harlech, and generally

doing what was needed. Everyone at Galliano did what

needed to be done, from making tea, to unblocking toilets,

to literally making fabric from Quality Street wrappers

mounted on organza. John was one of the kindest, most

poetic and talented people I have ever met, and working

with him was like reading a book. Everyday a new page

unfolded, and a new character or aspect of a character was

introduced, which meant that everyday felt like Christmas.

What part of the garment production process did you most

enjoy as a young designer?

To this day, my passion is for construction. Whether right or

wrong, the beauty is in the experimentation. That and the

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LIVIA FIRTH, MET BALL 2015

design process go hand in hand, and it is here that ideas are born and eventually turned

into reality.

Your parents are Sicilian but you were born in the UK. How does your background

influence your designs?

It started off, a little bit Baroque n’ Roll, now I look at the finer things from my Sicilian

heritage, the underpinnings, the pomp and ceremony, the piety and the sensuality, and

put these things (stuff of myth and memory, ideas that perhaps no longer exist in that

culture) into a tough British tailoring context. It is in this way that I play with the

masculine/feminine, the Madonna/whore complex, the notion that things are never

what they seem. I try and see the female form in all its glory, 360 degrees of curves and

sensuality, but with a twist always.

There’s always a moment, or a particular collection, which sets a designer on a trajectory

of international success and recognition. What was Antonio Berardi’s?

The Roundhouse show. It was based on voodoo, and I had just acquired an Italian

manufacturer, so the clothes were impeccable. Princess Julia played live, with 12 African

drummers, the set was all moving and on fire, Stephen Jones made the hats, Manolo

Blahnik made the shoes, which had silver spurs, Mr. Pearl made the corsets and Naomi

Campbell brought a friend, who just happened to be Prince. It is an experience I shall

never forget.

Your clothes are all about detail, often with many different cuts and fabrics coming

together in seamless fashion harmony in one exquisite piece. How do you source fabrics

and what are your favourites to work with?

I look at everything, and never accept what is out there. If there is a fabric I like, I might

change the weight, the content and the colour. I like tough, stiff masculine fabrics which

can be moulded to the body, but sometimes I like the idea that even tissue-thin fabrics

can be used in the same way. I love that nothing is impossible, and that fabrics

traditionally used for certain things are turned upside down, and in some cases inside

out, in order to achieve what is needed.

What would you say are the essential elements of the Antonio Berardi brand’s DNA?

Sensuality, unconditional femininity and control. A woman should always be in control,

whatever the outfit, and whatever the occasion.

What type of woman do you design for, and how should wearing an Antonio Berardi

creation make her feel?

I design for women, every type, regardless of age or size, but above all I design for a

confident woman. A woman who is not afraid to express herself and who essentially

dresses for herself. A woman who wears Antonio Berardi does it because she wants to.

Not because it is the flavor of the moment, but because she falls in love with an aspect

of herself that sometimes she hasn’t considered.

Will you ever design menswear?

Someday, but it would be made up of perhaps 10 or 20 pieces, things I think every man

should have in his wardrobe. The perfect pea-coat, the perfect pant, the perfect

v-necked sweater etc… not easy to find when you need them. This is what I would love

to do one day.

Fashion shows go from one extreme to the other in terms of location, production, music,

opulence and money spent. What is the essence of an Antonio Berardi show and what

do guests expect?

When I started, it was all about the show. The concept was a very different one. We

didn’t really ever fit an outfit to a model. We just allocated and hoped for the best. Money

and time was spent on the spectacle, the audience was enthralled by the pyrotechnics,

the strangest of locations, the madness of the hair and make-up. Now I care more about

the clothes, the construction, the details. I don’t want the location to interfere or distract

from the beauty of the clothes. The focus is solely the beauty of the girls, the attitude,

and the music of course, which should never distract but enhance the experience, and

the garments, which should be impeccable, as it is they who are under scrutiny.

How do you feel, when a celebrity can wear any designer in the world and then they

choose an Antonio Berardi creation? And what’s been your favourite, most recent, red

carpet moment?

It is thrilling, humbling and totally surprising. I am ever grateful for the support and

sometimes the un-expectedness of it. Every moment is as thrilling as the previous or the

next, and to say that one is my favourite would be completely unfair. But, Rosie

Huntington Whitely in a red suit on the red carpet was a moment, as was the furor that

saw Gwyneth Paltrow in a sheer sided gown, which garnered around 186 newspaper

covers worldwide the next day. Who knew?!

Do you have an in-flight routine and what essentials must always be with you on board

a long flight?

A change of clothes, slippers, soap, a good book and cologne. I always want to smell

good.

You show in London twice a year, which must be highly pressurised and labour intensive.

Please give readers of The Cultured Traveller an insight into the run-up to an Antonio

Berardi show, and how you feel just before curtain up.

We send over the collection from Italy, along with my staff, myself and my tailors.

After setting up in Shoreditch, I work on editing the collection with my creative director

and best friend, Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou from 10Magazine, all under the watchful

eye of my partner Alfredo Girombelli, who takes note of all the changes we make (even if

that means cutting up two garments to make one, making a totally new style, or adding

to embroidery for maximum effect. ) in order that the factory know everything they need

to for eventual production and pricing. After discussions with Rami - our casting director

from Paris - about who we like and who is in town, we start fittings. I am really quite fast

here, as there are usually six of us pinning one girl at a time. The real time is spent by the

tailors who practically re-make the garments to fit each girl – I want each girl to feel as if

the garment belongs to them, it fills them with a certain pride which is invaluable. I never

leave my team, sometimes leaving the fittings studio to have a shower and then straight

to the venue. I feel as I have always felt before curtain up - nervous, anxious and afraid.

Nothing has changed in all this time. It doesn’t get easier, and every time feels like it’s

the first time.

Choosing fashion as a career is fraught with challenges. What advice would you give a

talented, up-and-coming designer?

Never say never and follow your heart. It was the advice I was given many many years

ago, and it still applies.

Visiting which continent provides you with the most creative stimulation and ideas for

136

AMY ADAMS, SAG AWARDS 2014

new collections?

South America, because it is so vast, each country is totally unique, there are nods back

to what we know from Europe, but it is intrinsically a universe to be discovered and

re-discovered. Visually stunning, climatically all over the place, musically inspiring and

the people and places are just awe-inspiring.

Of all the supermodels who have sashayed up and down your catwalk during the past

20 years, which have been the most enjoyable to work with and why?

Naomi, because she sets the tone for any show. Carmen Kass, because she cares.

Karolina Kurkova and Erin Wasson, who could dance their way through their own fittings

and everyone else’s, and Kate Moss, for turning up with a McDonalds and raring to go !

How important is it for you to continue to challenge yourself as a designer?

It is the most important and fundamental aspect of what I do. I am never satisfied, so

each day is filled with purpose. The day I am, which will probably never come, is the day I

stop.

After more than two decades running your own international business, what keeps you

interested and what do you like most about the fashion industry?

I love what I do, and am totally spoilt in the fact that my job is one that I look forward to

every day of my life. There is always something new to learn and always something out

there to be discovered.

Who would you say are currently the talented, young designers to look out for?

Marques'Almeida - founded by Portuguese designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida

- are my current favourites. They are mesmerizing and have a totally unique voice.

What have been your most memorable vacations to date and what made them so

special?

I was travelling through Asia on business, and had four days to spare. My treat was the

Datai Langkawi, off the coast of Malaysia. It was heaven in a rainforest, remarkable food

and accommodation, I swam with pink dolphins and entertained monkeys in my room. I

was one of only four guests, one being a very famous musician who slipped in the pool

on his arrival, and who I never saw again.

What is your favourite hotel in the world and why?

Verdura Golf & Spa Resort in Sicily. It is close to where my family are from, so I know the

area very well. My favourite beaches are nearby, I am surrounded by the most amazing

culture and food, but I can totally get lost and disappear. Last but not least, the hotel and

its staff are amazing.

Where and how does Antonio Berardi relax?

In the kitchen, cooking, cleaning, but always with music. It’s the centre of my universe.

Are you a cat or a dog person?!

I am a dog person. I have a Bull Terrier named Bruno, who is my world. He just tends to

make everything better, and the unconditional love is awe inspiring.

What’s next for Antonio Berardi?

Growth!

www.antonioberardi.com

138

TOD'S SMALL WAVE BAG

The new season calls for a new interpretation of a classic bucket bag, and

Tod's Small Wave bag ticks all the right boxes. Tod's bags and purses are

fashioned from sumptuous materials in laid-back

silhouettes highlighted with sophisticated

accents, and this little number is no exception.

The contrasting wide front leather band

finishes off the ultimate cosmopolitan

bag, and will give your daytime look a

chic, refined edge.

GBP 1,210

WWW.TODS.COM

VINCE LOW V-NECK

Inspired by the kind of jumper your

boyfriend might leave behind, this

relaxed, drop-shoulder sweater is

effortless for layering, but also feels

cozy-soft next to the skin. In a

chill-chasing knit of 70% wool and

30% cashmere, it easily slips on over

head, has a deep V-neck and long

sleeves. Perfect for a day lounging on

the sofa with the Sunday papers!

USD 335 WWW.VINCE.COM

MONCLER SWEATER

Designed by French apparel manufacturer

and lifestyle brand - founded in 1952 by

René Ramillon and best known for its

down jackets and sportswear - this

timeless, Italian-made Moncler ski jumper

will undoubtedly become a staple part of

your autumnal wardrobe, not least due its

practicality and heavyweight wool and

alpaca-blend composition for extra

warmth against the cold.

EUR 365

WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM

MCQUEEN BACK PACK

Founded by the late British designer in

1992, Alexander McQueen quickly

gained a reputation for opulent (and

often outrageous) bespoke creations.

Today the line is under the creative

direction of Sarah Burton, who

continues the fashion house's

tradition of turning out

impeccably tailored, beautiful

clothes, and eye-catching

accessories. This black and

off-white Victorian moth

print jacquard backpack,

with calfskin leather

trim, will work equally

well transiting an airport

as it will in the Swiss Alps.

USD 1,395

WWW.ALEXANDERMCQUEEN.COM

140

GLOBETROTTER

Unfortunately the summer is over for most of us. Those surprisingly balmy days you

dream about are now pretty much gone until May next year. Sultry vacations, mostly spent

lazing in the sun, are but a distant memory. When you step outside for the next few months,

you'll either retreat back indoors or cope with being a little cold. But autumn (and the

impending winter) is the perfect excuse to add one or two stylish layers and cozy up in the

season’s coolest fashion offerings, whilst staying warm and remaining stylish. Here are

some of The Cultured Traveller's picks to keep you on trend and looking cool in the autumn.

KOKORO SCARF

London-based Kokoro uses luxury fabrics

and traditional printing techniques, and

draws inspiration from Japanese Irezumi

tattoos and contemporary culture to put

an evocative spin on design classics.

Designed in London, spun by an artisan

factory at the base of Mount Fuji and

screen-printed in Kyoto, add a little

artistic flair to your winter wardrobe with

one of these unique and eclectic Sumi

Black Imari cashmere and silk single

gauze scarves.

GBP 325

WWW.KOKOROLONDON.COM

STELLA

MCCARTNEY COAT

Technical fabrics, rich colours and

precision cuts are integral to Stella

McCartney's aesthetic, while her ethical

accessories always create a buzz. This

precision-cut, lightly structured,

one-button single-breasted woven

‘Bryce’ coat - crafted from a warm

camel-coloured wool-blend - beautifully

showcases the label's finely honed

tailoring skills, and can be worn formally

or dressed right down.

GBP 905 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

PAUL SMITH WALLET

Remember those huge radio/cassette player combos that people used to

walk around with on their shoulders in the 1980s and early 90s? Known

as boom boxes, they influenced a generation of music and style. Iconic

British fashion designer, Paul Smith, has brought back the boom box in a

series of leather goods, including this mens black calf leather billfold

wallet with digitally printed

interior, made in Italy.

GBP 175

WWW.PAULSMITH.CO.UK

CANADA GOOSE PARKA

Originally developed for scientists working at Antarctica's McMurdo Station research

facility, this extreme weather ‘Expedition’ parka is the undefeated champion of

cold-weather utility jackets, having proven its worth in the harshest environments

on the planet. Four front cargo pockets and two sets of fleece-lined hand-warmer

pockets provide space for every glove, hat and instrument, plus there's a

down-filled hood with genuine coyote fur ruff to keep your head cosy and toasty.

USD 1,000 WWW.CANADAGOOSE.COM

ÉTOILE ISABEL MARANT BOOTS

The arbiter of unstudied French cool, Isabel Marant is an aspirational,

trendsetting brand famed for its pared-down Parisian vibes. Dispensing with

formality, Marant creates bohemian, urbanite and wearable styles adored by

fashionable women the world over. These calf leather cold-weather boots -

lined in soft, natural lamb shearling - are part of Marant's easygoing Étoile

diffusion line launched in 1999. The classic black colour makes them as easy

to wear between seasons as during the height of winter.

EUR 550 WWW.MYTHERESA.COM

FENDI SIGNATURE SCARF

This handmade, lightweight jacquard shawl by

the historic Italian luxury fashion house, in a soft

powder pink silk and wool blend with

tone-on-tone FF pattern, is suitable for any

season and can work equally well with a daytime

ensemble or thrown over your shoulders at night.

EUR 370 WWW.FENDI.COM

AERIN TRAVEL COMB

Brushing your hair regularly - from root to

tip - stimulates the follicles and

promotes growth. This Italian-made,

travel comb by AERIN is a stylish

interpretation of a hair design classic

classic, and has a slightly curved shape

and luxurious polished gold finish for a

hint of luxury on the go. Being compact

and lightweight make it perfect for travel

and easy to slip into a purse or carry-on.

USD 32 WWW.AERIN.COM

BRUNELLO

CUCINELLI CARDIGAN

The countryside of Umbria, where Brunello

Cucinelli calls home, was the inspiration for the

sublimely luxurious and colorful cashmere

that made him famous.Today the company

operates from a restored 14 th century castle

in Solomeo, Italy (in fact, he restored the

entire village). Two different shades of

yarn are combined to create this cardigan

- crafted from the finest cashmere and

finished with horn buttons - perfect for

layering over a tee and a shirt.

GBP 1,690 WWW.MRPORTER.COM


A

9/11 MEMORIAL www.911memorial.org/memorial

9/11 MUSEUM www.911memorial.org/museum

ABC CARPET & HOME www.abchome.com

AI FIORI www.aifiorinyc.com

ALBA INTERNATIONAL WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR

www.fieradeltartufo.org

ALBUQUERQUE INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA

www.balloonfiesta.com

AMANGALLA www.amanresorts.com/amangalla

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS MUSIC FESTIVAL

www.aclfestival.com

B

BAREFOOT www.barefootceylon.com

BARIN HOTEL www.iranskitours.ir

BARNEYS NEW YORK DOWNTOWN www.barneys.com

BATHTUB GIN www.bathtubginnyc.com

BROWN BEACH HOUSE www.brownhotels.com/beach

BURJ AL ARAB www.burjalarab.com

C

CAFÉ BUDAPEST CONTEMPORARY ARTS FESTIVAL

www.cafebudapestfest.hu

CANYON RANCH WELLNESS RESORT AT KAPLANKAYA

www.canyonranchdestinations.com/kaplankaya/

CENTRAL PARK www.centralparknyc.org

CENTURY 21 DOWNTOWN www.c21stores.com

D

DARK HORSE COMEDY CLUB

www.darkhorsecomedyclub.com

DEAR IRVING www.dearirving.com

DEATH & CO. www.deathandcompany.com

E

ELEGANT RESORTS www.elegantresorts.co.uk

EMPIRE STATE BUILDING www.esbnyc.com

F

FIT ‘N’ TASTY www.fitntasty.ch

FIVESTORY www.stuartweitzman.com

FRIEZE LONDON

www.frieze.com/fairs/frieze-london

G

GALLE FORT HOTEL www.galleforthotel.com

GALLOW GREEN www.mckittrickhotel.com

GILLIGAN'S www.gilligansnyc.com

GRAND BAR & LOUNGE www.sohogrand.com

H

HENLEY & PARTNERS www.henleyglobal.com

HENRI BENDEL www.henribendel.com

HIGH LINE www.thehighline.org

HOTEL BÖ www.hotelbo.mx

K

KEMPINSKI GRAND HOTEL DES BAINS

www.kempinski.com/en/st-moritz/grand-hotel-des-bains

KINGFISHER www.kingfisherunawatuna.com

KITH www.kithnyc.com

KK www.facebook.com/kkcfort/

L

L'AMICO www.lamico.nyc

LA FIERMONTINA www.lafiermontina.com

LAKSANA www.laksala.gov.lk

DOVER STREET MARKET www.fivestoryny.com

144 116 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

M

MADISON & VINE www.facebook.com/MadisonAndVine

MARIE EIFFEL www.marieeiffelmarket.com

MASSKARA www.facebook.com/kbdfi

MIMIMANGO www.joedenmimimango.com

MOMOSAN Ramen & Sake www.momosanramen.com

MORIMOTO www.morimotonyc.com

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART www.moma.org

N

NEUE GALERIE www.neuegalerie.org

NORTH FERRY www.northferry.com

O

OMAR PUENTE www.omarpuente.com

OUTPUT CLUB www.outputclub.com

P

PALACE HOTEL www.sfpalace.com

PARK HYATT DUBAI www.dubai.park.hyatt.com

PROVOCATEUR www.provocateurny.com

Q

QUINTA DO LOBO BRANCO

www.quintadolobobranco.pt

R

RAM’S HEAD INN www.ramsheadinn.com

RESENSE SPA www.resensespas.com

ROOF GARDEN BAR www.metmuseum.org

ROUX AT THE LANDAU www.rouxatthelandau.com

S

SALON DU CHOCOLAT www.salonduchocolat.fr

SANT FRANCESC HOTEL SINGULAR

www.hotelsantfrancesc.com


www.guggenheim.org

SOUTH FERRY www.southferry.com

STATUE OF LIBERTY

www.statuecruises.com/statue-liberty-and-ellis-island-tickets

STRAWBERRY FIELDS www.strawberry-fields.com.au

STUART WEITZMAN www.doverstreetmarket.com

SUNSET BEACH www.sunsetbeachli.com

T

THE CHEQUID www.thechequit.com

THE FLATIRON ROOM www.theflatironroom.com

THE FORT PRINTERS www.thefortprinters.com

THE GREENWICH HOTEL www.thegreenwichhotel.com

THE JANE www.thejanenyc.com

THE LANESBOROUGH www.lanesborough.com

THE OBEROI BEACH RESORT, AL ZORAH

www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-al-zorah-ajman/

THE RITZ, PARIS www.ritzparis.com

THE THREE BY TPV www.thethreebytpv.com

V

VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL www.phuketvegetarian.com

VINE STREET CAFÉ www.vinestreetcafe.com

W

WHITNEY MUSEUM www.whitney.org

WORLD TRADE CENTER TRANSPORTATION HUB

www.reuters.com/article/us-new-york-transportation-i

dUSKCN0W34EG

Z

ZEMI BEACH HOUSE RESORT & SPA

www.zemibeach.com

(13) The Cultured Traveller - Second Anniversary Edition, October-November 2016 Issue 13

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