(11) The Cultured Traveller, June-July 2016 Issue 11

ISSUE 11
JUNE/JULY 2016
INSIDE THE HERMIT KINGDOM OF
NORTH KOREA
MANSU HILL GRAND MONUMENT, PYONGYANG
GLASGOW • MAÇAKIZI • TAJ MAHAL • ATHENS • MATADOR ROOM
SONJA PARK • CHAPTER ONE • LYDIA FORTE • ROBERT TATEOSSIAN

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LONDON | EDINBURGH | DUNDEE | GLASGOW | BATH

CONTENTS
HIGHLIGHTS
39 GLORIOUS GLASGOW
The transformation of Glasgow into
European City of Culture has been dramatic.
Niall Palmer spends a week discovering
Scotland's pulsating biggest city, which has
reinvented itself as a cultural powerhouse of
music, creative arts, theatre, design and
gastronomy.
114 AMERICA’S TOP CHEF
Alex Benasuli interviewed fast-rising
Miami-based chef de cuisine of celebrated
Matador Room, Jeremy Ford, fresh from his
crowning as the winner of American
television series, Top Chef.
80 BODRUM GLITZ
Popular amongst the international jet set and
Istanbul’s most beautiful, and renowned for
its happening waterfront parties and
glamorous beach club, Dawn Gibson finds
out why exotic Aegean resort of Maçakızı is
still glittering after almost 40 sultry Turkish
summers.
126 KING OF CUFFLINKS
Former city banker, Robert Tateossian,
speaks with Kalia Michaelides about making
the leap to the world of high-end retail and
creating an international luxury fashion
brand.
GLASGOW UNIVERSITY
106 CHAPTER & VERSE
Michelin-starred Chapter One has been
serving exceptional contemporary Irish
cuisine in Dublin for more than twenty years.
Gordon Hickey finds out why it's repeatedly
name-checked as one of the country’s best
restaurants.
36
WIN A WEEKEND
AT LE GRAY
Located in the downtown cosmopolitan
epicentre of the Lebanese capital, winning a
weekend at upscale boutique hotel, Le Gray,
is your gateway to discovering the intense
charms and diverse culture of vibrant Beirut.
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 05

16
10
39
14
08
EDITOR’S LETTER
“Live or electronic tour guide?” is a
question our Editor-In-Chief, Nicholas
Chrisostomou, is often asked. Does
one pay for a pre-recorded escort -
pay, plug-in, switch-on, walk, listen
and see - or spend a bit more on a
professional individual to show you
around a location they’re passionate
about and personally impart their
knowledge one-on-one?
10 NEWSFLASH
Our summary of seasonal happenings,
global events and notable festivals
taking place around the world in June
and July 2016, including the dragon
boat festival in China, Sónar in
Barcelona, the regatta of St. Raniere
in Pisa, Inti Raymi in Peru, Gay Pride in
New York and the bizarre wife-carrying
championships in Finland.
14 REST YOUR HEAD
Hotels featured in this issue include the
new Japanese Aman resort on Honshu
Island, boutique art deco hotel Luciano
K in Santiago de Chile, 18 th -century
Le Mas Candille in the enchanting
Provence village of Mougins, and
New York’s Library Hotel, bursting at
the seams with thousands of books.
58
58 SUITE ENVY
The penthouse suite of former royal
palace, King George hotel in Athens,
covers the entire ninth floor and
boasts its own swimming pool, two
bedrooms, private lift, breathtaking
views of the Acropolis and enough
entertaining space for 70 people.
Nicholas Chrisostomou lives like a
lord in the charismatic Greek capital.
68 THE CULTURED CHAT
At just 28, Lydia Forte is an
up-and-coming hospitality force to
be reckoned with. The daughter of
hotel baron Sir Rocco Forte, the
young businesswoman has already
taken charge of bar and restaurant
development at Rocco Forte Hotels.
Ashlee Starratt talks to the
entrepreneurial ingénue about
cuisine, career and legacy.
76 BOARDING PASS
The rise of private jet travel has
officially surpassed the cushioned
crust of the mega-wealthy upper
classes, and an increasing number of
aviation companies are making their
services much more accessible to
mortals. Nicholas Chrisostomou
investigates how astute travellers in
36
50
68
06 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

76
88
CONTENTS
the know can fly on a private aircraft
for the cost of an economy ticket.
88 SPOTLIGHT
The ivory marble mausoleum on the
banks of the Yamuna River near
Agra, built in 1631-1653 by Mughal
emperor Shah Jahan to house the
tomb of his favorite wife, Mumtaz
Mahal, is quite possibly the most
famous building in the world.
Nicholas Chrisostomou visits the Taj
Mahal and discovers that the iconic
Indian wonder is even more
spellbinding than the hype.
97 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN
From its insular heart to the
barbed-wire borders marking the
no-man’s land of its DMZ, North Korea
remains a world apart to its closest
neighbours and a veritable mystery to
the West. The allure of its enigma
continues to draw speculation, as only
a few intrepid tourists venture forth in
an effort to understand the country
and its people. Greg Turnbull was one
of them.
110 TASTE & SIP
The brainchild of world famous
French chef, Jean-Georges
Vongerichten, Matador Room in
Miami offers a distinctive
interpretation on Latin cuisine,
incorporating Spanish, Caribbean
and South American flavors. Alex
Benasuli discovers why it's one of
Miami’s hottest restaurant tickets.
120 MUSIC & NIGHTLIFE
Born in Seoul, educated in Vienna
and now living in Qatar,
award-winning concert pianist and
the first Steinway artist in the Gulf,
Sonja Park, finds time in her busy
schedule to chat with Kalia
Michaelides about her Moving
Young Artists foundation and how
the pianoforte became her musical
life companion.
132 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER
There’s nothing that gets you more
into the spirit of travelling than
shopping for a holiday wardrobe, and
so for this - the first of two summer
issues of TCT - our Editor-in-Chief,
Nicholas Chrisostomou and Deputy
Editor, Kalia Michaelides, have each
hand-picked half a dozen essentials,
which they feel sure any fashion
conscious cultured traveller shouldn’t
leave home for sunnier climes
without.
114
126
110
120
97

Editor’s Letter
“Live or electronic tour guide?” is
a question I'm asked often. Until
three years ago I would have
come down on the side of the
pre-recorded escort - pay,
plug-in, switch-on, walk, listen,
see. Job done. But when
Amsterdam’s iconic Rijksmuseum m
re-opened in 2013 (after an
inordinately long, drawn-out
re-furb) and I'd yet to visit, I
decided to book myself a walking tour. There were countless to
choose from, on various subjects, departing at regular intervals
from the information desk, like trains pulling out of a busy railway ay
terminus. It was a mission to find a basic tour. When I eventually
did, I decided on the spur of the moment not to be one of a
group - escorted round like lost puppies - so I bought all ten
places on my tour and had the guide to myself. She was an
inspirational lady in her early sixties, charismatic and dressed in
Issey Miyake. The personalised information she imparted,
one-on-one, was a revelation. It was there I realised how greatly
I’d missed the personal interaction in a museum. A renewed
experience, it completely opened my mind, compelling it to take
in what I was seeing. It had been a long time since I’d absorbed
the subject matter on a tour - too many things distract us these
days. But when an educated, intelligent person is showing you
around a location they’re passionate about, it would be bloody
rude to start texting, so instead we focus, listen, ask questions
and learn. I've always said that life is a never-ending lesson. I left
the Rijksmuseum that day, educated and energized, and haven't
looked back since.
In this issue you’ll come across guides in various guises, as we
explore a trio of contrasting locations, where what we’re shown
and how we’re shown it leave an indelible mark on our
perceptions of a place and its people. The writer of our North
Korea cover story, Greg Turnbull, was ‘guided’ around the DPR
by an altogether different type of chaperone. Orchestrated and
unnerving are words that jump to mind when describing his
experience of being shuttled around the hermit kingdom. It
makes for fascinating reading (p97). A few months ago I visited
the Taj Mahal, where I was guided by a lovely chap without
whom I definitely wouldn't have appreciated the magnificent
site so deeply (p88). Recently, newest TCT contributor, Niall
Palmer, spent a week discovering Glasgow, guided by a
Glaswegian friend, who took him off the beaten path to places
there's no way he would’ve seen otherwise (p39). So it's official
- when there's a choice (perhaps with the exception of North
Korea), a living, breathing human guide is always preferable to a
machine. It's rare to be able to say that in this day and age, but
it feels good.
JUNE/JULY 2016
Taj Mahal
Glasgow
Nicholas Chrisostomou
Editor-In-Chief
Penthouse Suite, King George
08 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

Contributors
Ashlee Starratt
Lives: Doha Wrote: The Cultured Chat
Ashlee Starratt is a Canadian editor and
journalist based out of Doha, Qatar. With a
passion for story-telling, if it’s lifestyle,
wellness, travel or food, she’s probably
written about it. With a background in print
media and television across Canada and the
Middle East, Ashlee has worked as Editorial
Director for Qatar Happening and ABODE
magazines, as a reporter, videographer and host for
www.haligonia.ca, and as a producer for Pink Dog Productions out
of Halifax, Nova Scotia. She can be found on her travels, collecting
stamps in her passport, in search of stories that need to be told.
Greg Turnbull
Lives: Doha Wrote: Traveller Lowdown
Greg Turnbull became fascinated with
adventure travel in 1981, when at the tender
age of 17 he went to the then relatively
bizarre destination of Russia with a school
friend. The obsession continued when he
spent six months each in Russia and
Germany as part of his university languages
degree. After a few years working for a TV
company in London, Greg became an avid nomad, using his job to
take him round the world, living in Hong Kong, Italy, Australia and
Ireland, before settling in Doha for the past decade, where he now
works for renowned news channel, Al Jazeera English.
Niall Palmer
Lives: London Wrote: City Focus
Niall has travelled extensively in Europe,
The Americas and Scandinavia. Closer to
home, he balances city life with a
fascination for the natural world, and his
love of the British Isles’ more remote places
has led to long sojourns in Ireland, Orkney,
Shetland and the Western Isles. For many
years, Niall worked with Society of London
Theatre, and he now writes regularly about British theatre for
www.blog.fromtheboxoffice.com. His passion for the spoken word
includes a keen interest in Britain’s Norse and Gaelic storytelling heritage,
ranging from the Icelandic sagas through to writers like M. R. James.
Gordon Hickey
Lives: Dublin Wrote: Taste & Sip: Chapter One
Dublin native Gordon may have spent the
past decade working as a TV producer, but
has spent twenty years in front of the camera
exploring the world. Fascinated with maps
and geography as a child, he went on his
first solo trip to Italy at the tender age of 14
and hasn’t looked back since.
Eating his way around the globe and
sampling local street cuisine sees Gordon at his happiest. When
he’s not on a plane heading to a foreign destination, you'll find him
exploring every historical corner of his Irish homeland.
Dawn Gibson
Lives: London Wrote: No Shoes Required
Dawn Gibson is a multi-tasking journalist
who is passionate about travel, fashion,
food, culture and the arts. Never happier
than when about to board a plane en route to
a far-flung part of the globe, she is also a
keen scuba diver always in search of the
perfect coral reef. Dawn has worked as a
senior news reporter for a leading city daily
newspaper in Australia and as editor for a glossy lifestyle
magazine in the Middle East. Her work has appeared in numerous
international print and online publications, including Qatar
Airways’ first class magazine Oryx Premium.
Alex Benasuli
Lives: London Wrote: Taste & Sip: Matador Room
Alex has been traveling the world his whole
life. Growing up in New York City, he
would accompany his family every summer
on visits to relatives in Spain, France and
Germany. A successful two-decade career in
finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico,
Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all
over the Far East.
Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex
has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban
travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and
experiences.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Nicholas Chrisostomou
DEPUTY EDITOR Kalia Michaelides
GRAPHIC DESIGNER Eleana Nicolaou
WEB DEVELOPERS Oleg Gnatyk & Dmytriy Suslov
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EDITORIAL words@theculturedtraveller.com

LAJKONIK FESTIVAL
POLAND
Cracow is not short of the
odd legend or
two...maiden-devouring dragons,
enchanted pigeons, sorcerers who fly
about on giant cockerels - and every
summer, one of the most peculiar of
them all - a bizarre looking rider with a
wizard's hat, oriental attired and huge
beard - springs to life in the city's old
town. His name is Lajkonik, and once
every year, this exotic figure "gallops"
into the Market Square to meet the
Mayor. Lajkonik commemorates and
celebrates the triumph of Polish
commoners against the troops of
invader Genghis Khan. According to
Polish legend, when the head of
Cracow’s defenses defeated the
marauders back in the 13th century, he
slipped into the Mongolian’s robes and
triumphantly rode into the city. This
historic event has been re-enacted ever
since and the Lajkonik festival was born.
2 June 2016
10 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016
DUANWU JIÉ
CHINA
The sight of China’s rivers
filling with colourful crafts
decked out to look like dragons - from
their fearsome snouts to their scaly tails -
can only mean one thing. The annual
dragon boat festival. This colourful,
yearly event may be a lot of fun but the
festival’s roots lie in tragedy. It
commemorates Qu Yuan, a revered
humanitarian politician, who drowned
himself in the Miluo River in 278BC to
protest against the Qin state’s invasion
of his patch, Chu. The dismayed common
people took to their boats and tried to
keep the fish and evil spirits from Qu by
splashing their oars and beating drums.
Qin eventually conquered all its rival
states and created China, but the
patriotic poet is nonetheless honoured. If
you happen to be in Beijing on 9 th June,
Xiadu Park hosts the biggest celebration
in the city. Here, Beijing's university
students go head-to-head in an annual
inter-university dragon boat race,
complete with games and performances,
and snack on traditional triangular
onzòngzi dumplings.
9 June 2016
BLOOMSDAY
IRELAND
Set in Dublin, the vibrant,
heady capital of Ireland,
brimming with beautiful Georgian
architecture and inviting public houses,
Bloomsday marks the date upon which
the great Irish scribe, James Joyce, took
his future wife Nora on their first outing
in 1904, after a period of self-imposed
exile he deemed necessary to create the
critical distance required to write about
Dublin. This was also the day Joyce
chose to set his masterpiece, the novel,
Ulysses. Bloomsday’s literary pilgrims of
today, make life reflect art by
descending on the locations visited by
the novel’s protagonist, Leopold Bloom -
dressed in full Edwardian costume -
including city landmark, Davy Byrne’s
pub, where they mimic Bloom and tuck
into a gorgonzola cheese sandwich with
a glass of burgundy. Starting with a full
Irish breakfast, the day includes
readings, performances and guided
walks, plus much time spent drinking
and visiting pubs.
11-16 June 2016
www.bloomsdayfestival.ie
FEAST OF
ST. ANTHONY
PORTUGAL
Every year, on the feast day
of St. Anthony, patron saint
of Lisbon, the Portugese Portuguese
capital goes sardine crazy. The winding,
narrow streets and steep staircases in
Alfama, the city’s oldest quarter, are
bedecked with white lights and blue
streamers, potted basil decorations hang
from balconies and store fronts, and the
air is filled with the smell of fish being
grilled outside little houses and
restaurants. Couples dance on
cobblestones to fado music. Revelers
empty pitchers of red sangria and drink
sour cherry liqueur out of edible chocolate
shot glasses. Sardines blackened over

charcoal are enveloped in traditional
bread and devoured by the Portuguese
who love the salty taste. Dancers
dressed in pink parade down Avenida da
Liberdade. For Lisbonites, the Santo
Antonio Festival, held every year on the
eve of June 13, marks the beginning of
the city’s many summer festivities.
12-13 June 2016
REGATTA OF ST. RANIERI
ITALY
Every year Pisa stages a
1,500 metre dash up the
River Arno, a tradition dating to the
1290s, in celebration of the feast day of
San Ranieri, or Saint Rainerius, the
city's patron saint. The first regatta was
held in 1292 during the Palio of Our
Lady of the Assumption. Nowadays
four narrow rowing boats, which
resemble large gondolas - differently
coloured to represent the city’s four
districts, with fixed seats and a crew of
8 oarsmen, a helmsman and
"montatore" - are fashioned in the style
of the frigates of the Medicean Order
of the Knights of St. Stephen, a military
order founded in 1561. The race -
against the river's natural current -
starts near the bridge used by trains to
cross the river, and ends in front of the
Palazzo Medici near the Ponte della
Fortezza. The entire day is an Italian
celebration of food and drink with
festivities throughout the city.
17 June 2016
SÓNAR
SPAIN
Officially billed as a festival
of progressive music and
multimedia art, music is by far the main
focus of this annual, award-winning
three-day music extravaganza held in
Barcelona, which began in 1994 as a
networking opportunity for the music
industry. Sónar now attracts 80,000
lovers of electronica every year, who
visit to worship cutting-edge artists and
DJs hailing from all corners of the
world, and gather in the sunny Catalan
capital for three days and nights of
avant-garde music and spectacular
multimedia art exhibitions. Sónar
features an eclectic mix of music,
technology and art, divided in two
parts: Sónar by Day with concerts,
workshops and exhibitions; and the
main event - Sónar by Night, which
consists of a series of extraordinary
spectacles held in various locations
throughout Barcelona.
16-18 June 2016
www.sonar.es/en/2016
SUMMER SOLSTICE
UK
The ancient prehistoric site
of Stonehenge in Wiltshire,
has been a place of worship and
celebration at the time of the summer
solstice for thousands of years. The
solstice, which means a stopping or
standing still of the sun, is when the sun
is directly above the northern
hemisphere, indicating midsummer. The
summer solstice has been celebrated by
everyone from ancient druids performing
rituals at stone circles, to new age,
neo-Pagan, hippie revelers and modern
day scientists. June 21 st - the longest day
of the calendar year - is a rare chance for
members of the public to walk among the
ancient stone circle. By sunset, a few
thousand people have usually
congregated to keep vigil. By sunrise,
numbers have invariably swelled to more
than 20,000 people gathered to greet the
sunrise.
21 June 2016
www.stonehenge.co.uk
INTI RAYMI
PERU
Peru is famed for its
spectacular festivals,
featuring traditional, brightly-coloured
clothing, dancing and foods, and Inti
Raymi (Quechua for "sun festival") is no
exception. The ancient Inca so feared
the diminished effects of the sun during
winter, they would fast, create lavish
banquets to honour the sun and
sacrifice llamas to ensure a bountiful
crop. This important annual recreation
brings multitudes of visitors to Cusco
for a nine-day winter solstice
celebration worshiping the Incan god,
Inti. The ceremony marks the beginning
of a new year, and lavish banquets,
festive music, historical recreations and
much dancing praise the Inca, celebrate
traditions and will for a fruitful season
of harvest. A week’s worth of festivities
culminate in an epic daylong event on
June 24th, in a royal procession to the
ancient fortress.
24 June 2016

PRIDE NEW YORK
USA
On 27 June 1969, police
raided the Stonewall Inn, a
gay bar in New York’s West Village. The
ensuing Stonewall riots lasted several
days and are considered to be the
beginning of the modern gay-rights
movement. The first gay pride march
was held in 1970 and has became an
annual civil rights demonstration around
BATALLA DEL VINO
SPAIN
Every year on St. Pedro’s
Feast Day in Haro - capital
of northern Spain’s Rioja-producing
region - thousands of thirsty locals,
together with wine-loving tourists,
climb a mountain and literally throw
vino all over each other. Some tote
water pistols loaded with wine. Others
are armed with pump-action
super-soakers or spray can filled with
wine. Meanwhile traditionalists opt for
gourds, buckets, bottles and old boots.
Rather than a common-of-garden feast
day, locals refer to this messy event as
La Batalla de Vino de Haro, or, quite
simple, the Wine Fight. The liquid
madness starts the previous night, on
the evening of June 28th, and as the
proceedings unfold all of the townsfolk
gather on the streets - from children to
grandparents - and party the night away
in Haro’s cobbled streets and jumping
bars.
28-29 June 2016
www.batalladelvino.com
KNYSNA
OYSTER FESTIVAL
SOUTH AFRICA
Started more than forty
years ago, when it was
designed to draw people to Knysna
during the quiet winter season, this
annual oyster fest has become one of
the most popular events in the Western
Cape calendar and something of a
general celebration of the good life.
Featuring sporting events as well as a
feast of fresh seafood and acres of its
marine mollusc namesake (naturally),
the world. Over the years, its purpose
has broadened to include recognition of
the fight against AIDS and to remember
those the community lost to illness,
violence and neglect. Pride New York is
now a massive lesbian, gay, bisexual and
transgender celebration, attended by
tens of thousands and watched by even
more. A full week of activities, parties,
festivities, concerts and shows
(beginning on 19 June 2016), culminates
in a show-stopping, carnival-like march
through the streets of New York.
26 June 2016
www.nycpride.org
the 10-day festival is spread across two
weekends and provides fun and
activities for the whole family, including
a half marathon and two-day cycle tour
that is the biggest of its kind in the
country. There's also a dive challenge
for scuba divers to navigate their way
underwater from The Heads to Thesen's
Jetty without surfacing, and a two-night
exhibition of photography, illustrations
and paintings by local artists.
1-10 July 2016
www.oysterfestival.co.za
WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS
FINLAND
This bizarre sporting competition, now in it's 24th year, has its roots in
the tribal practice of pillaging neighbouring villages for womenfolk.
Apparently a robber by the name of Rosvo-Ronkainen, was particularly keen on the
practice of thieving other people's wives in the late 1800's. What started as a
light-hearted attraction in the small Finnish town of Sonkajärvi, has become a world
recognised event, which sees forty pairs from seven countries compete to complete a
253.5 metre-course in the fastest time. The track is made up of sand, grass and
various obstacles, including two log hurdles plus a one-metre deep water obstacle. If
the wife weighs less than 49 kilos, she must wear a rucksack to reach this minimum
weight. Various techniques are employed to carry the wife, the most popular being
the “Estonian” style, where the wife (wearing a crash helmet) is dangling upside down
on the man’s back!
1-2 July 2016
www.eukonkanto.fi/en/
12 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

GION MATSURI
JAPAN
Running the entire month of July every year, Gion is probably Japan's
best known festival, and one of the longest. Named after Kyoto's Gion
district, it’s by far the country’s best event for geisha enthusiasts and photographers
seeking candid photos of Geisha and Maiko. Traditional rituals and events related to
this wonderful celebration are held throughout the month, the biggest events of the
festival being the Yoiyama (the pre-party of the parade) July 14 th -16 th , and the Yama
Hoko Junko on 17 th July – the main parade – culminating in the Shinko Festival at
18:00 that day, when the shrine deities that preside over the festival are
transported in three special mikoshi (portable shrines) from Yasaka Shrine to the
Otabisho.
1-31 July 2016 www.kyotoguide.com
CAMEL CUP
AUSTRALIA
Held at Blatherskite Park in
Alice Springs in the
Northern Territory (Australia’s
least-populated area) - normally a
dusty outback outpost with the feel of
a pioneer town - every July the place
explodes with belly dancing, bands,
rickshaw rallies and, most importantly,
camel races. The sport’s appeal lies in
the beasts’ unpredictability and
stubbornness. Camels snarl, gurn, bite
and are known to spit for metres. At
the start of a race they might move
forwards, stay right where they are or
even reverse. But when they get going
at full speed, jockeys have a serious
job to stay aboard. This desert
extravaganza offers all sorts of
trophies in addition to the main
Imparja trophy, and when you add
food stalls and a weekend day with
families, it all has the feeling of a
county fair. The Afghanistan Cup is
presented by the country’s ambassador
to Australia, commemorating the
Afghans who first brought camels to
the outback in 1840.
9 July 2016
www.camelcup.com.au
KIRKPINAR OIL
WRESTLING
TURKEY
This long-running tradition
was reportedly conceived by
Ottoman raiders, whose military
commander, Süleyman Pasa, would let
his bored soldiers unwind between
bouts of actual battle by wrestling. On
one memorable occasion forty men
scuffled at once, with the two fiercest
fighters going at each other until past
midnight when both died of exhaustion.
When the remaining army had
conquered Edirne, the victors referred
to the forty soldiers in the name of
Kirkpinar, where the wrestling
competition has taken place every
summer, near Edirne, since 1346. The
idea is to prevent your opponent from
getting a good grip and so more than
100 barrels of oil are used during the
three-day tournament. This really is
no-holds-barred wrestling, with
contestants grabbing anything and
everything to win. With a solid gold belt
awarded to the victor, there’s everything
to play for.
18-24 July 2016
www.turkishoilwrestling.net
VERBIER FESTIVAL
SWITZERLAND
Created in 1994 by Martin
T:son Engstroem, The
Verbier Festival has a worldwide
reputation for artistic excellence and is
now considered one of Europe's most
important music festivals. Every July,
the greatest names in classical music
circles, gather for two weeks amongst
the breathtaking landscape of the Swiss
Alps, for an exceptional series of some
60 concerts, featuring choirs, orchestras
and intimate recitals. In addition to
showcasing world-renowned
performers, promising new artists and
talented young musicians from all over
the world are invited to perform
alongside their grand masters. The 2016
line-up includes a special jazz evening
with Grammy award-winning American
singer, Diane Reeves, winner of Best
Jazz Vocal Album in 2015, plus a series
of concerts by celebrated French
classical pianist, Lise de la Salle.
22 July - 7 August 2016
www.verbierfestival.com

HONSHU ISLAND
AMANEMU
If you’ve been looking for an excuse to see more of
magnificent Japan apart from Tokyo and Kyoto, or needed
a tipping point to plan a first time trip, the Aman group,
renowned for unparalleled luxury and fine design, have
heard your call and recently opened their second property
in the land of the rising sun. Amanemu is located in Mie
Prefecture, within Ise-Shima National Park in southwest of
Honshu Island, off Japan’s eastern coastline. The area
abounds in outstanding natural beauty and cultural
significance. Forested, rolling hills give way to beautiful
Ago Bay, known as the Bay of Pearls. The hotel is located
close to one of Japan’s holiest Shinto sites, the Ise Grand
Shrine, and the UNESCO World Heritage designated
Kumano Kudo pilgrimage trails.
In Amanemu, the group has created its interpretation of
a Japanese onsen, a minimalist yet luxurious hot spring
sanctuary. This is a place to truly relax and restore.
Pagoda-style structures - fashioned out of wood, bamboo
and stone - frame garden courtyards, an infinity pool and
various sitting areas, all of which look out towards the calm
and blue waters of Ago Bay. At the heart of the Amanemu
experience are the onsen or hot springs, which have been
an intrinsic part of Japanese wellness and bathing culture
for more than a millennia. All 24 suites and four
two-bedroom villas feature a private onsen. The property’s
wellness centre is designed around a large onsen and also
features two private onsen pavilions, in addition to
treatment rooms and a well-equipped fitness centre. Dining
options focus primarily on refined and farm-to-table
Japanese cuisine with some carefully curated Western
inclusions. Fish and shellfish come straight from Ago Bay,
fruits and vegetables from local farms and Wagyu beef
from locally reared cattle.
Between exploring the surroundings - including the
nature trails, historical sites and Ago Bay - and relaxing on
site in the comfort of the suites, villas, wellness centre and
infinity pool, a stay at Amanemu promises to raise the bar
on the rural Japanese nature experience. Aman, in
Sanskrit, means peace, while Emu, in Japanese, means
the sharing joy. Amanemu does exactly that.
ALEX BENASULI
www.aman.com/resorts/amanemu
14

Rest Your Head
Honshu Island, Budapest, Santiago, Mougins, Melbourne, Cartagena, Cape Town,
Rovaniemi, Dubai, Playa Del Carmen, Simien Mountains, New York, Beirut

BUDAPEST
22 16

THE RITZ-CARLTON, BUDAPEST
Culture meets pedigree at one of the finest
addresses in the EU’s largest historic city. The
storied second capital of the Austro-Hungarian
Empire, Budapest guards its history close; but
intrepid travellers who wander its cobbles will hear its
whispered secrets and discover a cultural past that
lives on. Tourists can take in the Hungarian Crown
Jewels at the city’s neo-Gothic Parliament, revel in
the architectural grandeur of St. Stephen’s Basilica,
or pay solemn witness to the darker days of the
Second World War at The House of Terror – a
museum highlighting the bloody epochs of Hungarian
history housed on the site of the city’s former
war-time Nazi Headquarters.
Visitors to this historic capital will find a
home-base in the central lap of luxury at the
Ritz-Carlton Budapest. Just minutes from the
Danube River in the city’s Andrássy district – a
UNESCO World Heritage Site – the hotel’s palatial
environs befit its regal cultural surroundings. With
170 plush rooms and 30 luxurious suites, it’s a
sight-seer’s urban sanctuary. Indulge in a signature
treatment or thermal ritual at their tranquil spa, or sip
and savour goblets of Hungary’s award-winning
wines against a back-drop of Budapest’s best
comfort food at the hotel’s Deak St. Kitchen. With
in-room décor that’s sleek, contemporary-chic,
guests will find comfort in the plushness of their
surroundings regardless if they’ve booked
themselves into a Superior Room or a Junior Suite.
We especially love their cavernous en-suite baths
with heated marble floors and lush Asprey amenities.
George Ezra sings of hidden treasure chests in
his hit single, Budapest - and he’s not wrong. The
city is a trove for history buffs and culture vultures
alike, and while you’re there you may as well put on
The Ritz. ASHLEE STARRATT
www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/europe/budapest

SANTIAGO
LUCIANO K
Pulsating with al fresco drinking and
dining, culture, art and an eclectic mix
of people, the country's capital and
largest city, Santiago de Chile, has
become one of Latin America’s most
modern and cosmopolitan cities, the
result of Chile’s economic growth of the
past few decades. Having survived
dictatorships, financial instability and
earthquakes, Santiago is now the
epitome of South American cool. Few
places within the city's central urban
area demonstrate more fully Santiago's
artistic credentials, than the festive
Barrio Lastarria neighbourhood. Named
in honour of writer José Victorino
Lastarria, this colourful district has long
been home to bohemian and arty types,
and is filled with museums, funky wine
bars and chintzy boutiques. In amongst
the creative throng, is hotel Luciano K,
named after the building's cult Chilean
architect, Luciano Kulczewski, who
designed this gem as an apartment
block in the 1920s. When erected
almost a century ago, it was the tallest
structure in Chile, and the first in the
country to have a lift and central
heating.
The re-imagination of this unique
building as a 38-room boutique hotel -
focused around its original, central
staircase - has been skillfully executed.
The restoration work has been
sympathetically carried-out with
tremendous attention to detail, care and
thoughtfulness, creating a unique and
warm place to rest your head.
Kulczewski’s signature Art Deco
detailing has been given a new lease of
life. Guest rooms and suites continue
the Deco vein, with bright colours used
in many of the soft furnishings, with
striking effect against the wooden
parquet flooring. The restaurant - with
its show-stopping, glass geometric
back bar - serves tasty, tapas-style
dishes produced using local ingredients
and organic produce. Meanwhile up on
the roof terrace, which boasts
incredible views towards Parque
Forestal and Alameda Avenue, a pink
heated plunge pool, sauna and bijou
spa vie for space with sun loungers,
multi-coloured tiles, Windsor chairs and
an abundance of mood lighting, which
when lit, set the perfect scene for a
sophisticated evening soirée.
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
www.lucianokhotel.com
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 19

MOUGINS
20

LE MAS CANDILLE
The South of France is one of the world’s most popular destinations for jet
setters, socialites, the rich and famous, catering well to their whims and fancies.
For cultured travellers who would like to enjoy the best of this Mediterranean
paradise whilst keeping a distance from the madding crowd, Mougins is the
ideal place to relax in traditional, French provincial surroundings, yet be within
easy reach of happening Cannes and Nice just a few miles away,
Picasso lived in his Mougins villa for the last 15 years of his life, and over the
years many creative and arty types have called this enchanting parcel of the
Côte-d’Azur home. The town’s esteemed creative history, medieval flower-filled
streets, art galleries, two golf courses and numerous Michelin-starred fine dining
restaurants, bring together the charm of Provence and the glamour of the
French Riviera in one delightful locale, nestled between pine, olive and cypress
trees, just 15 minutes away from the beaches of the Croisette.
Set within a 9-acre haven of greenery, a short amble from the center of
Mougins, is Le Mas Candille, a deluxe 5-star boutique hotel of just 46 rooms
and suites, housed within a lovingly-restored 18th-century farmhouse in a
magnificent hilltop location, offering spellbinding vistas of the valley. The
property took its name from its largest cypress tree, of which there is an
abundance throughout the hotel’s lush grounds. This is a place that offers
calmness and peace in every aspect, and guests visit Le Mas Candille to
unwind and recharge in private.
The hotel is divided into three parts: the original 18th-century farmhouse, La
Mas, and the more spacious La Bastide and La Villa Candille, the latter being a
collection of six suites. La Mas rooms are classic and traditionally furnished,
opening onto the farmhouse’s beautiful gardens. La Bastide rooms are
bedecked with vintage furniture, art pieces, antiques and fabrics meticulously
collected, many with a fascinating history. Suites in La Villa Candille are
individually styled and afford gorgeous views of the alpine foothills. Every guest
room in the building is unique in some way, and the hotel retains an intimacy
and familial atmosphere that positively distinguishes it from many of the other
luxury properties in the area. Coupled with a superb on site Michelin-starred
restaurant, Le Candille, and Europe’s first Shiseido Spa, it’s difficult not to fall
under the plentiful, gentle charms of Le Mas Candille, and unsurprisingly many
guests return time after time. KALIA MICHAELIDES
www.lemascandille.co.uk

MELBOURNE
QT MELBOURNE
Melbourne - the sun-soaked mecca of Australia’s Victoria state is an urbanite’s oasis and a bohemian’s rhapsody. Art galleries
and gypsy boutiques jostle for space amidst a vibrant street culture that shows off the best of Melbourne’s culture, fashion and
foodie scenes. Explore the hidden gems along iconic Brunswick Street - and have your tarot read over a cold micro-brew;
breathe the salt air and dip your toes in the surf at St. Kilda’s; or slake your hunger at one of the many gastro-pubs serving up a
fusion of flavours.
In keeping with the city’s reputation as the arty heart of Oz, it’s only fitting that its roster of hoteliers offer a little quirk with their
quarters. Cue the QT Melbourne, the seventh sibling in the avant-garde brand’s portfolio slated to open in August 2016. Known
for its funk-ified décor (courtesy of Nic Graham’s team at g+a) and unconventional ethos, the boutique hotel chain will deliver 200
guest-rooms and suites, plus 24 residences, in the revamped Greater Union Cineplex premises on Russell Street. Weekend
warriors looking for a down-the-rabbit-hole retreat can stumble into a Wonderland of wig-wearing reception staff and whimsical
interiors, while discerning guests can satiate their appetite for sophistication at celebrity chef Robert Marchetti’s Bar & Grill.
Situated in the heart of Melbourne’s business district, Russell Street has gone through an urban renewal of late, making the
QT Melbourne’s location prime real estate. A stone’s throw from the cultural hub of Federation Square, hotel guests can easily
explore the city on foot, stopping for a taste of Italian on nearby Lygon Street, or a bite of couture – Chanel if you please! – at the
five-star boutiques that dot its leafy sidewalks. If there’s one property Down Under this Cultured Traveller can’t wait to check into,
the QT Melbourne tops the list. ASHLEE STARRATT
www.qthotelsandresorts.com
22

QT SYDNEY
CARTAGENA
DELANO CARTAGENA
As a young man exploring Miami, I instinctively knew that the huge, billowing white curtains in the lobby at Delano South Beach, signaled
that there was something rather special about this particular hotel. Designed by Philippe Starck and unadorned outside, inside the giant
moving screens of fabric, flowing in the Atlantic Ocean breeze, revealed glimpses of quirky furniture and cozy corners, in which guests
carefully stationed themselves to attain the best possible position from which to people watch. Twenty years on, Delano's luxe design
aesthetic - which skillfully balances eclectic detailing with grand interior gestures - has become a hospitality industry benchmark few have
managed to successfully imitate, let alone exceed. The iconic South Beach hotel, which opened in 1995, doesn't appear to have dated at
all, and the Morgans group which owns it is now gently and gracefully unveiling equally restrained yet beautiful properties around the globe.
Few places could possibly offer a more perfect backdrop to a Delano hotel, than Colombia's vibrant, colourful, sub-tropical Caribbean
playground, Cartagena de Indias. Already attracting design-savvy travellers, seasoned fashionistas, affluent Americans and
upwardly-mobile same sex couples, all looking for a cutting-edge South American experience, the city is positively humming to the sound of
salsa, brimming with happening bars and filled with gastronomic delights, and discerning vacationers are crying out for a smart, design-led
hotel experience. Delano is the hotel that changed South Beach forever, and when Delano Cartagena opens later this year - located on a
new beach development, Mar de Indias, on the south side of the city - I fully expect the hospitality industry’s original designer hotel brand to
have the same effect on Colombia's colonial crown jewel. This will be Morgans Hotel Group‘s first foray into the South American market, and
by all accounts it is taking it very seriously and doing it properly. Delano Cartagena’s 186-room inventory will include magnificent suites and
ocean-side bungalows, and guests will have unlimited access to an 18-hole golf course, deluxe spa, fine dining outlets, bars, a nightclub
and a decadent beach club to rival its sexy South Beach sibling. Watch out Cartagena - the Delano effect is coming.
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
www.morganshotelgroup.com

CAPE TOWN
TINTSWALO ATLANTIC
Is there a more beautiful natural setting for a city than Cape Town? Commanding its perch on the southern tip of the African continent, the
Mother City has ocean, sandy beaches, mountains, and is surrounded by gorgeous countryside, mostly vineyards and colonial-era farms.
Cape Town, of course, has a lively downtown, cutting-edge restaurants and numerous sites of historical importance. However it is the drop
dead gorgeous and dramatic natural setting that really steals the show, and positions Cape Town in a league of its own as an international
destination. There is no better place to experience the Cape Town of outstanding natural beauty, than Tintswalo Atlantic hotel.
Located 25 minutes from downtown, driving towards Hout Bay, just off the road from majestic Chapman’s Peak, Tintswalo Atlantic feels
like a private and excusive beach house, a luxurious extension to the Table Mountain National Park in which it is located. The first time I ever
drove from Cape Town to Chapman’s Peak, I literally thought I had died and gone to scenic heaven. It’s truly that spectacular. The effect is
augmented with the inescapable and hypnotic sensation that the landmass of the African continent is reaching its end.
Following a devastating fire in 2015, Tintswalo Atlantic is open again after an extensive rebuild, promising to be better than ever before. All
ten suites, individually decorated, face the water. An expansive deck, built predominantly out of wood and glass in order to blend with the
surroundings and maximize the views, lies directly on the foot of the ocean and has offers tremendous vistas of the encroaching mountains.
There are two swimming pools, including one salt water, plus various, inviting sitting areas in which to become one with nature. The on site
restaurant is a destination onto itself. For the more active and curious, hikes in the nearby national park and sea kayaking can be organized,
as well as excursions to Cape Town, Robben Island, and to the Cape of Good Hope and its famous colony of Jackass penguins.
Tintswalo Atlantic offers much of the best of what makes this part of the world so special - views, natural beauty, amazing food, delectable
wines and warm hospitality. With Cape Town and Hout Bay so close-by, you are at once off the beaten track but easily accessible to
civilisation, should you need it of course. ALEX BENASULI
www.tintswalo.com/atlantic
24

ROVANIEMI
ARCTIC LIGHT HOTEL
The remote Finish city of Rovaniemi, in the heart of Lapland, may be best known for its vantage point to see the Northern Lights and being
the official hometown of Santa Claus, and its human population may be smaller than its reindeer count, but outside the freezing winter
period, the region offers completely different vacation possibilities, which many people who live in continental Europe discovered a long
time ago. From the beginning of June until the end of August, lakes are free of ice and the rich, verdant green forests are positively
bursting with life. Waters run through the Kemijoki and Ounasjoki rivers, and snowmobiles and sledges are replaced by boats, kayaks and
cruisers. The marshy Riisitunturi National Park and neighbouring Oulanka National Park (so far east it almost touches Russia), with its
thick pine forests and picturesque waterways, attract visitors from all over Scandinavia, such is the draw of the beautiful Finnish wilderness
and its pure, fresh air, reputed to be the cleanest in Europe.
Arctic Light is a new family-owned hotel situated in the heart of Rovaniemi, occupying a 1950s building that was formerly City Hall.
Recently converted into a stylish 57-room year-round haven of calm and cheer, designed by leading Finnish hotel and restaurant architect,
Jaakko Puro, Artic Light positively celebrates its northerliness to the extreme, walking a fine line between chic and camp. “Magic” category
rooms boast twinkling headboards, fur throws, cutesy polar bear teddies, oversized beds laden with pillows and cushions and deluxe
walk-in showers. Many have their own saunas. Four themed suites include a self-contained “Christmas Cabin” complete with the obligatory
tree. Service is warm and friendly, and the welcoming lobby - guarded by an 11-foot polar bear beside the entrance - is a popular meeting
place for friends and families, embarking upon an adventurous afternoon outing, beyond the city limits in the lush countryside beyond.
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
www.arcticlighthotel.fi
26

DUBAI
W DUBAI AL HABTOOR CITY
Dubai; jewel of the GCC. In the desert city that never sleeps, it’s about time the iconic W Hotel brand lived up to its Whatever/Whenever
motto in this Middle Eastern playground. Soft opening this month, this marks W Hotels’ first foray into the UAE, and the swishy group
couldn’t have picked a more prime position than the centrally located Al Habtoor City development. With its towering residential and
penthouse superstructures, a 1,400-seat water-show theatre conceptualised by Cirque du Soleil’s Franco Dragone, and an exclusive
tennis academy and clubhouse, it’s an urban oasis on the shores of Dubai Canal.
Want to feel like royalty upon arrival? Guests checking-in at W Dubai Al Habtoor City get the regal treatment on arrival - the Welcome
Desk is all the way up on the hotel’s 30th floor, where the sky’s the limit as far as panoramic views go. The hotel’s 356 rooms are similarly
space age chic and super well appointed, many bearing names like Spectacular and Marvellous.
Dubai’s glitterati can mix, mingle and sip their way through Executive Chef David Contreras’ inspired F&B concepts. Bringing 15 years’
experience gleaned from luxury properties in South America, Africa and the Middle East, Contreras and his team have their craft down to a
palate-pleasing art. NAMU promises an inspired menu of Asian delicacies; Level Seven takes foodies on a Mediterranean tour de force,
while the zingy cocktails at W Lounge are just waiting to be lapped up. With state-of-the-art audio-visual elements throughout the hotel, the
W Dubai Al Habtoor City is a futuristic, well-dressed retreat of stylish proportions. Views of the Burj Khalifa? Check. Sumptuous cuisine in
haute surroundings? Check. Tigers on a gold leash? Why not - this is Dubai and you’re staying at the W.
ASHLEE STARRATT
www.wdubaialhabtoorcity.com

HYATT REGENCY
CHANDIGARH
Three hours and 250 km drive from New
Delhi, heading northwards towards fresh
mountain air and a more conventional,
seasonal climate, lies an Indian city with
a population of well over one million,
which was planned by world renowned
Swiss-French architect,
Charles-Edouard Jeanneret-Gris, better
known as Le Corbusier. Chandigarh was
originally dreamed-up by India's first
Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, and is
located in the foothills of the Sivalik Hills,
a mountain range of the outer
Himalayas. Renowned and admired
countrywide, Chandigarh is one of the
best experiments in urban planning and
modern architecture in 20th century
India. Streets are straight, clean and
organised in a grid system, with different
districts marking out neighbourhoods.
The city is well kept, tidy and ordered.
Its townsfolk are affluent, proud and
generally well-to-do. Basically,
Chandigarh is an organised revelation in
a country where organised chaos is so
often the norm. The newly-built
211-room Hyatt Regency Chandigarh
recently opened it's glossy, polished
chrome doors in the center of this
upwardly mobile metropolis, and is
already - just a few months after
débuting - making hospitality waves
amongst the city's elite, national
celebrities and Bollywood stars.
The position of the property - central
to the city’s business hub and adjacent
to upscale Elante Mall - makes the hotel
not only a destination in its own right, but
also the perfect spot for a staycation or
spa weekend in the heart of Chandigarh.
Generously sized guest rooms -
including 25 suites and seven cabana
rooms - echo Le Corbusier’s sleek
design ethic, and feature luxurious
marble bathrooms, contemporary
bespoke furniture, locally-inspired
artwork and colourful carpeting. Each
overlooks the calm cityscape,
temperature-controlled swimming pool
or landscaped gardens. A full service
spa with multiple treatment rooms,
well-equipped gym, the biggest
pillar-less ballroom in the city, pool bar,
24-hour café, a multitude of concept
restaurants including a high-end Italian,
plus a happening bar, complete the
range of 21 st century amenities provided
to business and leisure guests. If
Chandigarh wasn’t on your Indian tour
map before, it most certainly should be
now.
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
chandigarh.regency.hyatt.com
28

CHANDIGARH

ROSEWOOD MAYAKOBÁ
The Maya was undoubtedly one of the most enigmatic civilisations in ancient history. Their sophisticated hieroglyphics, ceremonial
architecture, astronomical beliefs and immense mathematic knowledge are stills topic of research for scientists and archaeologists today.
In the indigenous land of the Maya, south of Cancun and north of Playa del Carmen, nestles Rosewood Mayakobá hotel, surrounded by
dense forests and pristine white beaches. Luxury is redefined in this magical all-suite retreat, which sits in 1,600 acres of verdant terrain,
touching the azure waters of the Caribbean. Offering complete solitude, the sprawling property boasts 130 suites laden with private heated
plunge pools, outdoor rain-showers, rooftop sundecks, terraces and gardens, all distinctively designed and beautifully executed. The
aquatic aura of the guest rooms is further enhanced by meandering lagoons, mangroves and boat docks. Open space floor plans
decorated with sophisticated furnishings, coupled with oversized bathrooms fashioned out of limestone and marble, create a plush yet
relaxed home away from home environment. There is no formality here. Rooms are purpose-designed purely for vacationing. Deluxe
overwater lagoon suites float graciously above emerald waters. Located literally steps away from the sand, beachfront studio suites offer
unobstructed views of the turquoise Mexican Caribbean. Expansive floor-to-ceiling windows give secluded duplex island suites - located
on the resort’s dedicated spa island - a distinctly residential feel, making them perfect for longer breaks.
Dining at Mayakobá is lifted to another level via its wide choice of culinary settings. Casa del Lago serves Italian cuisine fused with
hints of Mexico, its bar is the hotel’s go-to place for margaritas and moreish tapas, and its glass-walled wine room, La Cava, can be used
as a private dining space for small groups or romantic dinners à deux. The Caribbean Sea provides the spectacular backdrop to the
flavoursome regional Riviera Maya specialties served at beachside restaurant, Punta Bonita. And you cannot leave Mexico without
sampling some of the country’s fine tequilas. More than 100 premium varieties are served at the hotel’s on site sushi and tequila bar,
Agave Azul, so you won’t have far to totter if you inadvertently have one shot too many!
KALIA MICHAELIDES
www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/mayakoba-riviera-maya
30

PLAYA DEL CARMEN

LIMALIMO LODGE
North Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains have often been dubbed Africa’s equivalent of the Grand
Canyon. A UNESCO world heritage site, this vast national park is home to Ethiopia’s tallest
mountain at just over 4.5 km, Ras Dashen, as well as high plateau, soaring peaks, jagged rock
formations and deep gullies that literally drop off hundreds of metres. The park is also home to
large colonies of Gelada monkeys, leopards, Ethiopian wolves, the endangered walia ibex and
an abundance of birdlife.
The brainchild and labour of love of two native Simien mountain guides, who dreamt of
sharing, cherishing and preserving the wildlife and spectacular scenery of the treasured
environment they prized for decades, Limalimo Lodge is perched atop a dramatic escarpment
in amidst the national park, boasting spectacular vistas across miles of rugged lowland,
making it the perfect base from which to explore this incredible, unspoiled landscape.
The bulk of the building work to create the lodge, was carried out by construction workers
from the local community, many of whom also now work on the property. By building with
rammed earth, wood and thatch, the guest accommodation complements the natural
environment, rather than intrudes upon it. 14 contemporary-designed, luxury en-suite rooms
are dotted throughout the site’s 10 hectares of lush vegetation, so that guests can be
saturated in the peace and privacy of their surroundings. Fruit and vegetables are grown in the
lodge’s gardens, and fresh produce is purchased locally to cater specifically to guests’
requirements and culinary tastes. At Limalimo Lodge, the earth, nature, wildlife and hospitality
truly come together as one, with minimal negative impact on the precious, surrounding
ecosystem. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
www.limalimolodge.com
32

SIMIEN MOUNTAINS

LIBRARY HOTEL
Boutique hotels spring up on a
seemingly daily basis. Flamboyant
buildings with enticing interiors are
designed to lure-in travellers. New
hotels of today must devise
innovative concepts and create clever
niches to establish themselves as
unique and competitive in the
increasingly saturated hospitality
arena. In a bustling, ceaselessly
evolving city like New York, this task
is even more challenging, especially
given that real estate is so costly and
land ripe for development so
incredibly scarce.
Located at 299 Madison Avenue,
on the corner of 41st Street (which
was once known as Library Way), in
the heart of midtown Manhattan,
Library Hotel’s concept is inspired by
the Dewey Decimal classification
system, with each of the 10 floors
representing one of the system’s 10
categories and stocked with books
and art to suit. Each of the 60 guest
rooms is adorned with a collection of
tomes, which explore that particular
category’s topic, with the building
housing more than 6,000 books.
Some people may pass off this hotel
as a geek’s hub, but on the contrary I
can see the romantic side of it, for
instance, room 1100.006’s theme of
“Love” is illustrated with books
hand-picked by America’s favorite
sex therapist, Dr. Ruth Westheimer.
Guest rooms are decorated in a soft
and soothing palette of colours, which
blend harmoniously with the
mahogany wood furnishings. Interiors
are cleverly designed to maximize
space and functionality.
Back down on the ground floor,
Madison & Vine, the hotel’s cosy
American bistro and wine bar, is a
favourite hangout of New Yorkers.
Hearty food is served in retro
surroundings and on balmy days
patrons can dine al fresco and watch
people pass by. Library Hotel’s
Reading Room, located on the
second floor, is available to guests 24
hours a day, offering magnificent
views of Madison Avenue and Library
Way and featuring hundreds of
books, with a selection of
complimentary teas and coffees to
make your reading time as
comfortable as possible. In a city that
is renowned to never sleep, this must
surely be one of the most peaceful
places to spend an afternoon with a
good book.
KALIA MICHAELIDES
www.libraryhotel.com
34

NEW YORK

PRIZE DRAW
36

PRIZE
WORTH
USD 2,000
WIN
TWO NIGHT WEEKEND
STAY AT LE GRAY, BEIRUT
Winning a luxury weekend at Le Gray - located in the
downtown cosmopolitan epicentre of the Lebanese capital
- is your gateway to discover the intense charms and
diverse culture of vibrant Beirut.
To set the tone of your Le Gray stay from the very start, a
limousine will be waiting for you at BEY airport to whisk
you into the heart of the city.
Your home away from home for your weekend in Beirut, will
be a spacious deluxe Executive Suite, complete with
oversized marble bathroom.
You will enjoy daily breakfasts at Indigo on the Roof, taking
full advantage of the sweeping views of the city while you
plan your days.
Cool off in Le Gray's dramatic glass rooftop pool, from
which you can cast your eye across the cityscape,
Mediterranean Sea and mountains beyond.
On the last night of your stay, you will feast on a delicious
three-course dinner at Indigo on the Roof, paired with a
bottle of wine from a Lebanese domain.
Complimentary internet connectivity throughout your stay at Le
Gray will enable you to post non-stop updates on social media!
Le Gray, Beirut is a contemporary luxury hotel as stylish as the city itself.
Located in the historic heart of the capital, 15 minutes from the airport, the
hotel stands at the very entrance of Downtown, offering an opportunity to
discover the best of the city on foot. From ancient ruins, historical churches
and mosques, to luxury shopping boutiques, incredible restaurants and
unparalleled nightlife - all are easily accessible from Le Gray.
www.legray.com • Facebook/legraybeirut • Twitter and Instagram @legraybeirut
To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city, email
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GLASGOW
SCOTLAND’S CREATIVE, BEATING HEART
NIALL PALMER
Cosmopolitan, artistic, friendly: ask Glaswegians to
choose three words to describe their city and you’ll
soon have adjectives scattering like the petals of
Rabbie Burns’ Red, Red Rose on a cool summer
breeze. Whatever expectations you arrive with, this bustling
industrial metropolis, rich in life and culture, is likely to
exceed. On the long light evenings of the Scottish summer,
Glasgow’s streets take on a distinctly European feel, with
al-fresco dining and pavement cafés citywide, welcoming
visitors and natives alike. Glasgow’s slogan should be
“come on in”. As the UK’s fourth most populous city, one
might think of Glasgow as Prince Harry to Edinburgh’s
Prince William - cheeky, roguish and just a little more likely
to get you into trouble on a night out.
Glasgow punches well above its weight in creative output as
well as possessing an enviable ability to hold its whisky. The
city’s cultural epicentre is without doubt its world famous
On the long light evenings of the Scottish summer, Glasgow’s streets
take on a distinctly European feel, with al-fresco dining and pavement
cafés citywide, welcoming visitors and natives alike.
KELVINGROVE ART GALLERY AND MUSEUM
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 39

GALLERY OF MODERN ART
RIVERSIDE MUSEUM
GEORGE SQUARE
art school - an institution of boundless creativity and
aesthetic fertility, producing a seemingly unending flurry of
Turner Prize winners.
After touching down on Scottish soil, the perfect base from
which to explore Glasgow is Blythswood Square Hotel,
situated in a quiet, pretty Georgian square, a short walk
from all the city’s major sights. From here you’re ideally
placed to take a leisurely stroll, explore the nooks and
crannies of the Merchant City
and discover the boutiques
and cafés along
off-the-beaten-track alleys
that Google maps doesn’t
show. Glasgow is actually a
fairly easy city to navigate, as
it’s laid out in a grid system
much like New York, but
distance and undulating
topography make the
hop-on-hop-off city
sightseeing tours which start from George Square
(www.hop-on-hop-off-bus.com) a far more efficient way to
explore, and boy does Glasgow offer rich rewards to the
aesthetically and intellectually curious. With its diverse and
picturesque panoramic cityscape, Glasgow should almost
certainly be an architectural world heritage site. From the
glittering elegance of The People’s Palace, to the grand
baroque style of Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum,
you’ll happen upon countless wonderful buildings as you
40 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016
The city’s cultural epicentre is
without doubt its world famous art
school - an institution of boundless
creativity and aesthetic fertility,
producing a seemingly unending
flurry of Turner Prize winners.
venture around the city. All worthy of inclusion on your
must see list, are Provand’s Lordship - Glasgow’s oldest
house built in 1471 - medieval St Mungo’s Cathedral which
dates back to medieval times, and Glasgow City Chambers,
looming like a civic leviathan over statues of four of
Scotland’s proudest sons - Robert Burns, James Watt, Sir
Robert Peel and Sir Walter Scott. Glasgow is a city where
regularly casting your eyes heavenward is essential, in order
not to miss architectural detail and historic gems. As you
traverse the metropolis,
you’ll see original tenement
houses and beautiful
Victorian villas, now highly
sought after as residences for
well-to-do modern
Glaswegians. But while the
city preserves and celebrates
its design past, it just as
keenly embraces the more
modern in dramatic
architectural works by Sir
Norman Foster and the late great Zaha Hadid.
What Antonio Gaudi is to Barcelona, Scottish architect,
designer and artist, Charles Rennie Mackintosh is to
Glasgow, albeit on a less flamboyant scale. Mackintosh’s
influence permeates the city via his buildings, including the
Scotland Street School Museum, Glasgow School of Art and
the former Glasgow Herald building on Mitchell Street, now
The Lighthouse. After leaving The Lighthouse, cross

MARGARET MACDONALD AT GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART
SHARMANKA KINETIC THEATRE
CLYDE RIVERSIDE
TRONGATE AREA
Buchanan Street and take a look around the Gallery of
Modern Art, which displays cutting-edge works from local,
national and international artists. After a dose of artistic
inspiration, recharge with a coffee and something sweet in
one of Royal Exchange Square’s many open-air cafés and
restaurants, and peruse Glasgow’s essential listings guide,
The Skinny (www.theskinny.co.uk/). Then retrace your
steps to St Vincent Place and hop back on the bus along the
river towards the striking and multi-award winning
Riverside Museum - which
chronicles the history of
transport on land and sea -
and on to University of
Glasgow. This Gothic revival
by Sir George Gilbert Scott
dominates the Glasgow
skyline and dates from the
late 19th century. Walk
through the handsome
university cloisters - the light
in summer is quite beautiful -
and enter the Hunterian Museum to see spectacular
monumental sculpture, from various parts of the city, some
dating back to pre-Roman times, including sections of the
Antonine Wall. Here you will also find one of the world’s
most exquisite pieces of furniture, Whistler’s Harmony in
Yellow and Gold: The Butterfly Cabinet. The Hunterian
Museum also houses a meticulous reconstruction of the
interiors of the Glasgow home of Charles Rennie Mackintosh
and his wife, Margaret.
From the glittering elegance of
The People’s Palace, to the grand
baroque style of Kelvingrove Art
Gallery and Museum, you’ll happen
upon countless wonderful buildings
as you venture around the city.
In the recent past two key events had a significant effect
upon the city - Glasgow being the European City of Culture
in 1990, and the city hosting the 2014 Commonwealth
Games. As a result, many Europeans have made Glasgow
their home, evidenced by the sheer number of international
accents I heard fused with the local patter. There are few
things quite so charming (and confusing) as hearing a
Spanish bartender talk to you in a Glaswegian accent!
Criss-crossed with bridges,
along the River Clyde is a
beautiful place to stride, and
you’ll find wide paths
stretching several miles from
BBC Scotland studios right
the way along to Glasgow
Green (location of The
People’s Palace and Winter
Gardens) without ever
needing to leave the
riverbank. If time is short and
you need to zip around town, whilst taxis are plentiful,
Glasgow’s mass transit system includes a highly efficient
underground network, lovingly known as the Clockwork
Orange.
To the south of the city you’ll find 360 acres of woodland and
open countryside, Pollok Country Park, and nestled amongst
its trees, the world-class Burrell Collection, featuring a
significant collection of Degas as well as Dutch, Chinese and

Islamic masterpieces. Glasgow’s museums and galleries really are world
class, and back in town, Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum houses one
of Dali’s greatest masterpieces, Christ of St John on the Cross. This
achingly beautiful depiction of Christ is just one of the incredible exhibits
in a collection to rival any international art institution. I left Kelvingrove
with a sense of genuine awe - along with a smile that a world-class
museum can still contain so many stuffed animals!
Of course, there’s only so much culture any one person can take in one
day, so do stop for a spot of lunch in Rogano’s fabulous Art Deco dining
room, or enjoy champagne and oysters at the bar. After lunch, a little
retail therapy will almost be in order. Step out of Rogano and you’re in
the bustling heart of the central shopping areas of Princes Square and
Buchanan Street. Here you’ll find the likes of Vivienne Westwood,
Diesel, Hugo Boss and Apple, plus an array of diamond rings and
jewellery in The Argyll Arcade close-by. After lightening your bank
balance, walk up to Sauchiehall Street to take afternoon tea in The
Willow Tearooms. Despite having seen better days, these Rennie
Mackintosh designed Art Deco rooms still retain just enough of their
original character to make the slightly hit-and-miss service
unimportant. There is nothing more perfect on a rainy afternoon than a
pot of tea and scones with cream and jam, to transport you back to a
time when life was genteel and teatime lasted all day.
From the glittering elegance of The People’s
Palace, to the grand baroque style of
Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, you’ll
happen upon countless wonderful buildings as
you venture around the city.
42

MY GLASGOW
ALAN STREET
AREA MANAGER, ROX
DIAMONDS & THRILLS
What's not to love about
Glasgow?! The city has
reinvented itself over the past
few years as a cultural
powerhouse of music, creative
arts, design and innovative
cuisine. Glasgow's food and
drink scene is about experience
and authenticity - keeping it
real and serving it well.
The Merchant City is a firm
favourite for eating out.
Whether its brunch and Bloody
Mary’s at much-celebrated Café
Gandolfi (www.cafegandolfi.com),
lunch at Guy’s for one of the
best steaks in town
(www.guysrestaurant.co.uk), or
dinner and cocktails at
glamorous Hutchesons
(www.hutchesonsglasgow.com),
wherever you choose will impress with its imaginative and
cosmopolitan culinary offerings.
Whenever I’m in Glasgow’s West End, a visit to the Ubiquitous
Chip is a must. Its superb brasserie-style food and fantastic wine list,
have made this restaurant a Glasgow foodie institution for a long
time now (www.ubiquitouschip.co.uk). On the way back into the city
centre, I highly recommend calling into George Mewes Cheese on
Byres Road to pick-up some exceptional fromages
(www.georgemewescheese.co.uk).
Shoppers in Glasgow are seriously spoilt for choice with designer
and vintage shops galore. The biggest brands and major retailers can
be found in Glasgow's Style Mile. Another retail must see, situated in
the heart of Glasgow’s shopping metropolis, is the city’s famous
Argyll Arcade, which offers the largest selection of diamond
jewellery and watches in any single location in Scotland
(www.argyll-arcade.com).
For a little bit of luxury Malmaison is hard to beat. Set in a former
Greek Orthodox church, the hotel is perfectly located when planning
a weekend in the city (www.malmaison.com/glasgow). A great time to
visit is around the start of August, when the Merchant City Festival is
in full swing (www.merchantcityfestival.com). This year the festival
starts on Saturday 30 th July and continues until Sunday 7 th August.
Don't miss it!
PEOPLE'S PALACE AND WINTER GARDENS

Once you’ve shopped till you’ve dropped and completely satiated your
cultural inner-beast, it’s high time to feed your Glaswegian gourmand.
Glasgow has an enduring love affair with the sea and the city offers
abundant fresh seafood in a staggering array of restaurants, from simple
oyster bars to restaurant gems like Gamba and Gandolfi Fish. After a week
of dining out on incredibly delicious and well-presented fare, I was
astonished to learn that the city does not possess a single Michelin star.
As well as seafood, something else Scotland also does rather well is
distil. While America, Ireland and now even Japan produce tremendous
whisky, it’s hard to dispute that Scotland is the spiritual home of the
single malt. Sup a warming dram in one of the city’s best traditional
pubs; The Pot Still, The Bon Accord or The Ben Nevis. All three offer a
traditional pub environment and a bemusing array of blended Scotch
and single malts. Alternatively The Wee Pub at the Chip, on Ashton
Lane, invites you to join its whisky club - and it’s difficult to refuse a
visit to Ashton Lane on a summer’s evening. This pretty cobbled street
has a distinctly Gaelic feel - like a miniature Temple Bar - and as live
music wafts out into the night you’d be forgiven for wondering whether
you haven’t crossed the Giant’s Causeway and ended up in Dublin.
While you’re there, if the whisky hasn’t led you astray, take in a film at
the Grosvenor Cinema, curled up on one of the deluxe picture palace’s
incredibly comfy sofas.
Despite having seen better days, the Rennie
Mackintosh designed Willow Tea Rooms still
retain just enough of their original character to
make the slightly hit-and-miss service
unimportant.
44

MY GLASGOW
Large, exciting and vibrant, and
frequently name-checked the
world’s friendliest city. People
really do make Glasgow and
they are our greatest asset. As a
city centre resident, living in the
Merchant City, there is so much
to do and see in this fabulous
metropolis.
The Necropolis is located
behind Glasgow Cathedral and
is one of Europe’s most
significant cemeteries. It’s a
must for visitors looking to do
something a little bit out the
ordinary. It has wonderful
architecture, sculptures and is
‘alive’ with fascinating stories.
The organised walking tours are
check. Check online at
www.glasgownecropolis.org/.
Another beautiful place to visit is Glasgow University, to see its
CRAIG HOUSTON
HEAD OF ENTERPRISE,
D C THOMSON & CO LTD.
stunning east and west quadrangles (www.gla.ac.uk/about/visit/tour/)
Outside of London, Glasgow is one of the best places to shop. On
Ingram Street - which is lined with gorgeous Victorian sandstone
buildings - you’ll find many exclusive and fabulous places to spree, such
as Cruise, Gant, Agent Provocateur and Armani, to name but a few.
Glasgow’s eating and drinking scene is blossoming, with
something to suit all tastes and pockets and gastronomic gems
scattered throughout the city. Many of the city's neighbourhoods
have their own culinary ecosystems, boasting independent bars,
one-off cafés and unique restaurants. One such neighbourhood is
Finnieston - which has been transformed from an industrial
wasteland into a vibrant district full of arty hangouts and funky bars
and restaurants. Here, Crabbshakk (www.crabshakk.com), Rioja
(www.riojafinnieston.co.uk) and Ox and Finch (www.oxandfinch.com)
serve the best wines, local beers and delicious fare made from
locally-sourced produce. These three establishments are all within a
few minutes walking distance of each other in Finnieston.
Back in the Merchant city, Bruitti Compadre has a great vibe
throughout the day, serves delicious platos pequeños (small plates),
is so stylish it wouldn’t look out of place in Madrid and has a superb
outdoor space for al fresco dining, Glasgow weather permitting of
course! (www.brutticompadres.com)
TOWN HALL

46

Entertainment is everywhere in
Glasgow and its theatre scene is
so alive and booming, that part
of the city is colloquially referred
to as Theatreland. Whilst
musicians of the Royal Scottish
National Orchestra and Scottish
Opera have made Glasgow their
home, and major national and
international companies tour
here, you’ll also find the quirky
and unusual in amongst the
more mainstream. Not to be
missed is Sharmanka Kinetic
Theatre where clockwork figures
move in a surreal ballet of sound
and light
(www.sharmanka.com). Also
Britannia Panopticon - said to be
the world’s oldest surviving
music hall - which showcases
performers and cabaret artists
from across Scotland
(www.britanniapanopticon.org).
Glaswegians really enjoy their
weekends and this is when areas
like the Merchant City district, in
the city centre, truly come alive.
Cool and arty types hang out in
vibrant Finnieston
neighbourhood, while serious
clubbers head to Sub Club, the
longest running underground
dance club in the world
(www.subclub.co.uk).
There’s a safe, clean and
welcoming feel to Scotland’s
biggest city, and the council’s
current slogan “People make
Glasgow” is heartfelt. It may be a
little rough around the edges,
and you’re as likely to get soaked
as sunburned, but Glasgow is a
city I thoroughly enjoyed, fell in
love with and found very hard to
leave.
MY GLASGOW
DEBORAH
HOLLAND
COURSE LEADER,
GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART
To dip your toes into Glasgow’s
art and design scenes, and
perhaps embark on your own
creative activity, head to
Glasgow School of Art in the
city centre, where all year round
you can see internationally
renowned artist, designer and
student exhibitions
(www.gsa.ac.uk). Literally down
the hill (Glasgow is hilly!) call
into the galleries of the Centre
for Contemporary Arts
(www.cca-glasgow.com), which
also houses Aye-Aye Books,
sellers of more unusual fine art
and design publications
(www.aye-ayebooks.com). Visit
Trongate 103 arts centre (+44
141 276 8380)
and Transmission gallery
(www.transmissiongallery.org) and talk to those who work there - they
like to chat and are very knowledgeable.
Some of my most memorable visual art and theatrical experiences
have been at Tramway on the South Side, consisting of two
performance spaces and galleries in a former tram depot in the
Pollokshields area of Glasgow (www.tramway.org).
For live music go east to Barrowlands (www.glasgow-barrowland.com),
Òran Mór (www.oran-mor.co.uk) or Saint Luke’s
(www.stlukesglasgow.com). The latter are intimate venues and much of
what they present not only entertains but also challenges
perceptions.
Don’t be afraid to stroll in Glasgow - this is the best way to find
what interests you, or better still hire someone like me to be your
guide! If you are a runner, run the length of the Clyde from east to
west, from Glasgow Green to the Hydro. If you hire a car, navigating
the city is easy and journey times fairly quick - just keep loose change
handy for parking.
For the best food and drink, visit Rogano (www.roganoglasgow.com),
Drygate (www.drygate.com) and Crabshakk (www.crabshakk.com). For
vintage clothes hit Mr Ben (www.mrbenretroclothing.com), The Glasgow
Vintage Co (www.glasgowvintage.co.uk) and Vintage Guru
(www.vintageguru.co.uk). And don’t miss The Barras, a market that is
eccentric in its own inimitable Glasgow style
(www.theglasgowbarras.com).
NECROPOLIS

BLYTHSWOOD SQUARE
Boasting 93 stylish guest rooms, 6 suites and a spectacular penthouse, to stay at Blythswood Square is to experience attentive Glasgow hospitality and a
genuinely warm welcome in one of the city’s best locations. The hotel occupies a glorious, oversized Georgian townhouse, in a peaceful square with a
delightful garden at its centre, and includes a number of original features dating back to the golden age of motoring, when the building was the
headquarters of the Royal Scottish Automobile Club.
Calming tones and use of Harris tweed throughout - even down to uniforms - lend a rich and luxe style to Blythswood, and the hotel’s guest rooms,
bedecked with Egyptian cotton linen and married with hand crafted Spanish marble bathrooms, provide supremely comfortable accommodation and the
perfect base from which to explore the city, kick-started every morning with a glorious full Scottish breakfast.
The Blythswood’s impressive restaurant - housed in a grand former ballroom - never feels crowded, and tasty, classic Scottish dishes with a twist are
served efficiently by discreet and friendly staff. Adjacent to the restaurant, The Salon is an elegant space to enjoy traditional afternoon tea overlooking the
gardens, or lounge and relax with a cocktail or glass of bubbles.
The hotel’s award-winning 10,000 sq.ft. spa uses Ishga organic Scottish seaweed skin care products, and incorporates 9 relaxing treatment rooms, a
thermal suite offering a range of experiences, two relaxation pools and a soothing lounge. If it weren’t for the enticing city outside, guests would find it
almost impossible to leave behind the spa’s deluxe, pampering confines.
www.townhousecompany.com/blythswoodsquare/
48 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

APEX CITY OF GLASGOW
Home to 104 modern rooms and suites, to stay in a duplex suite atop
Apex City of Glasgow - decorated in sunshine yellow and slick grey
- is to experience bright, functional bachelor pad hotel living, where
upscale design and stylish detailing prevail. Each duplex suite feels
like a compact penthouse flat, with the bedroom upstairs and living
area and bathroom below (including a walk-in shower with Elemis
products), all fronted by sprawling, double-height windows offering
panoramic vistas of the city and hills beyond. Workaholics and
visitors to the city on business will enjoy immensely their functional
workspace with a fabulous view.
Downstairs, the hotel’s dining room and bar is an informal funky
affair, with a combination of cosy semi-circular booths, formal
seating and lounge-style tub chairs providing a casual environment
in which to take breakfast, have a snack or order something more
substantial, before venturing out onto bustling and characterful Bath
Street.
www.apexhotels.co.uk/apex-city-of-glasgow-hotel

SEE
CITIZENS THEATRE
In the Gorbals area on the south bank of the River
Clyde, opposite a derelict tower block, is an iconic
example of Victorian theatre. Ignoring the
uninspiring exterior, inside is a Grade B listing
building with beautiful original features and the most
complete working Victorian theatre machinery in the
UK. First opened in 1878, it is now one of Scotland’s
flagship theatre companies, under the artistic
direction of Dominic Hill. A quirky foyer with odd
statues and a theatre bar, lead into a stunning
auditorium. Ticket prices ensure that this remains a
theatre with the local community at its heart.
www.citz.co.uk/
KELVINGROVE ART GALLERY AND
MUSEUM
Arriving at the UK’s most visited museum outside
of London feels an impressively grandiose affair.
Built in Spanish Baroque style, inside Kelvingrove
you will find remarkable collections of art and
design, sculpture, silver and ceramics, clothing and
furniture, plus an inordinately large number of
stuffed animals. Kelvingrove offers asuch a large
and eclectic (and at times surreal) mix of artefacts
and exhibits that there is invariably something
within the museum’s grand edifice for everyone,
young and old alike.
www.glasgowlife.org.uk/museums/kelvingrove
SHARMANKA
Founded by sculptor-mechanic Eduard Bersudsky
and theatre director Tatyana Jakovskaya in St.
Petersburg, Russia, in 1989, to step into the world of
Sharmanka is to feel like a child on Christmas
morning. Hundreds of carved figurines and
clockwork machines created from old scrap, come to
life through hauntingly evocative music and
multi-coloured lighting in a bizarre ballet of whirring
cogs, clanking chains and ringing bells, “telling the
funny and tragic stories of the human spirit as it
struggles against the relentless circles of life and
death”. Visiting Sharmanka is a mesmerising
experience and one of Glasgow’s hidden gems not to
be missed.
www.sharmanka.com
THE NECROPOLIS
As atmospheric on a balmy summer’s afternoon as
on a foggy winter morning, visiting Glasgow’s
haunting Victorian garden cemetery is a reminder to
us all that life is to be cherished. Ironically juxtaposed
with the equally impressive Glasgow Royal Infirmary
and within a gravestone’s throw of Glasgow
Cathedral, the city’s architects seem to have covered
all bases. With more than 50,000 people interred in its
hallowed grounds, the tombs here read like a roll-call
of the great and good of the city’s past.
www.glasgownecropolis.org/
GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART
There’s been a school of art in Glasgow since 1845
and GSA is still ranked as one of the world’s best.
Many Turner Prize winners are former GSA students,
including Richard Wright and Martin Boyce.
Tragically, part of the building was seriously
damaged by fire in 2014 but visiting for a tour
remains a highlight for the insight it gives into this
revered creative institution. At the end of the tour,
enter the furniture gallery with examples of work by
GSA alumni Charles Rennie Mackintosh and superb
figurative work by Margaret MacDonald.
www.gsa.ac.uk/
50

CITIZENS THEATRE

ONE DEVONSHIRE GARDENS
52

TASTE
ONE DEVONSHIRE GARDENS
In the city’s elegant Hyndland residential area, atmospheric
period interiors and stained glass combine to create the grand
yet intimate feel of a private members club at Hotel Du Vin
Glasgow. The hotel’s destination dining establishment, One
Devonshire Gardens, is sufficiently reserved for an intimate
business dinner and amply discrete for a romantic liaison or
clandestine soirée. Recommended is the seven-course tasting
menu at GBP 59 paired with wines for an extra GBP 40 selected
by skilled assistant sommelier, Fiona Sutherland.
www.hotelduvin.com/locations/glasgow/bistro/
DAKOTA BAR & GRILL
Below the newly opened Dakota Deluxe hotel, Ken McCulloch
and Amanda Rosa have utilised their combined gifts for
hospitality and design to create a dark, brooding interior and
rather excellent dining experience. In less expert hands the
Dakota Bar & Grill could have lurched towards 1970s Jackie
Collins, but via impeccable service and an unpretentious and
well-executed menu, the overall effect is classy, decadent and
understated. Nibble on Fritto Misto while agonising over the
perfect side order to accompany your Côte de Boeuf.
http://glasgow.dakotahotels.co.uk/bar-grill/
GANDOLFI FISH
In the heart of the Merchant City is this extension of Glasgow
foodie institution, Café Gandolfi. Gandolfi Fish continues the
city’s love affair with the bounteous harvest of the sea. Freshly
cooked fish dishes are efficiently served an environment of
distressed wooden floors, large mirrors and clean white tiled
walls which lend the feel of a smart seaside eatery. The daily
set lunch menu is particularly good value for money.
www.cafegandolfi.com/gandolfi-fish/
GAMBA
Descend a stone staircase to this pescetarian culinary jewel.
Waiters in striped ties and crisp white aprons dart between
tables like rock lobsters in an azure sea. An understated menu
trusts the food to do the talking, and it’s very clear why. In the
hands of head chef Derek Marshall, the simple becomes
extraordinary and each plate is bursting with flavours and
presented with exquisite detailing. Marshall’s culinary flair
paired with his team’s hospitality prowess, lends Gamba a
relaxed air with an intoxicating aroma of the sea. The sashimi of
yellowtail tuna is so pretty it could easily grace a Kanō Eitoku
painting. A visit to Gamba is a gastronomic treat not to be
missed when visiting Glasgow.
www.gamba.co.uk/
CITATION TAVERNE & RESTAURANT
Glasgow’s former landmark Sheriff Court building is home to
fashionable bar and restaurant, Citation. The award-winning
ground floor taverne is the ideal locale for a post-work apéritif
and some social networking with Glasgow’s upwardly mobile
young professionals, before heading to the restaurant upstairs to
dine, where the rustic Louis XVI décor works well due to the
sheer scale of the huge room. Gary Rhodes-trained executive
chef Mark Stocks’ Scottish/European-influenced menu, makes
extensive use of locally-sourced seasonal produce to great effect.
After dinner, the terrace beneath the portico is the perfect place
to end a Scottish summer evening with a cognac and cigar.
www.citation-glasgow.com/

SIP
THE CORINTHIAN CLUB
Even by Glasgow’s high architectural standards, The
Corinthian Club is impressive. The huge domed ceiling does
echo, so if you’re seeking calmness and tranquility this place
will not be your thing. With five floors of dining, drinking,
gambling and clubbing, Corinthian is a destination venue unto
itself, and a fun place to play the tables and party into the wee
small hours. Every weekend DJ’s play an eclectic mix of deep &
commercial house, laced with a touch of nu disco, accompanied
by live sax and percussion on Saturday nights.
www.thecorinthianclub.co.uk/
THE SPIRITUALIST
A cool crowd frequents this excellent bar - which is cleverly
divided from its dining room, so both are together but breathe
individually with neither dominating - presided over by a team
of expert bartenders which is passionate about mixology. When
I visited, bartender Sebastian took great delight in telling me
how they’d just created a cocktail for the anniversary of the
Trojan War, before recommending signature concoction, Off the
Peat’n Track, which was a blend of Tamdhu and Talisker single
malt whiskies with melon liquer and a pinch of salt.
www.thespiritualistglasgow.com/
THE POT STILL
No trip to Scotland would be complete without rolling up your
sleeves and getting jostled along the bar of a traditional public
house. Always crowded, The Pot Still (named after the first
whisky stills) is a fine choice for a pint of beer or a single malt
before heading off to one of the surrounding area’s many
theatres. Choose from hundreds of whiskies and rub shoulders
with the cosmopolitan clientele. You might find a seat if you’re
lucky, but there’s more chance of seeing a wild haggis,
especially if you’ve had one for the road!
www.thepotstill.co.uk/
ROGANO
This long-established 1930s venue and the oldest surviving
restaurant in Glasgow, was refitted in the same Art Deco style
as the great Cunard liner, Queen Mary, which was built on the
Clyde. Close to the city’s best shopping, Rogano is the perfect
place to weigh anchor and enjoy a glass of chilled French cuvée
or a Smoke on the Clyde cocktail in its Oyster Bar, before
sauntering off to purchase something gorgeous. Meanwhile in
Rogano’s smart dining room, the finest salmon, langoustines,
scallops, lobster and halibut are faultlessly prepared and
presented in classic style.
www.roganoglasgow.com/
METROPOLITAN
Boasting an indoor terrace and a fantastic cocktail menu,
Metropolitan is positively throbbing on the weekends. We went
off-piste with a dirtily distinguished Old Fashioned with
Auchentoshan Three Wood cocktail, which the barman concocted
on the spot. A large balcony restaurant upstairs looks out over
the courtyard and sparkling lights of the Merchant Square
below. Home to a craft market at weekends, the square really
comes alive on a Saturday night when Glasgow's party crowd
hits town.
www.metropolitan-bar.com/
54

THE CORINTHIAN CLUB

THRILL ROOM @ ROX - DIAMONDS & THRILLS
56

SPEND
ROX - DIAMONDS & THRILLS
Diamonds are a girl’s best friend, so if it’s the four C’s you seek then you must visit
ROX. Founded by Kyron Keogh and Grant Mitchell in 2002, this award-winning British
luxury jeweller, produces inspired pieces and retails fine designer watches from five
plush stores in Northern cities. All feature a VIP “thrill room” (pictured)- a lavish
lounge for audiences with clients to peruse jewels in private, over a glass of chilled
Laurent-Perrier.
www.rox.co.uk/
GLORIOUS CLOTHING
Glasgow is a city which is well and truly in love with vintage clothing. From mohair
knits and brogues at trendy vegan hangouts, to jewel-encrusted ball gowns at one of the
city's many emporiums, there are plenty of vintage and pre-loved stores worth a
look-in. If you're a fashion lover, bargain hunting or looking for a rare find, Glorious is
your go-to place. This Ruthven Lane favourite isn’t so much authentic over-priced
vintage, as newer pre-loved, fashionista chic. Rummaging for an hour here can be a lot
of fun, and you never know what you’ll find.
www.facebook.com/GloriousSecondHandClothing
MONORAIL
In a music buying industry now dominated by iTunes and music streaming sites, and a
time when even digital album sales have fallen, vinyl has bucked the trend. While CDs
sit on shelves, vinyl supply is having a hard time keeping up with demand. It may not
have seemed possible a decade ago, but records are back and Monorail is a dream for
vinyl lovers, boasting a wide range of limited edition releases and one-off finds - not to
mention the odd Glasgow music royal playing a low-key set or discreetly browsing the
racks.
www.monorailmusic.com
FIREWORKS STUDIO
A few short steps from Glasgow School of Art is a bijou pottery oasis. FireWorks is an
urban collective, home to six ceramicists, including Garnet McCulloch. There’s a certain
thrill to meeting potters in their own studio, and to know that you’re speaking with the
artists whose hands crafted the pieces on display. Take away a tiny work of Glaswegian
art from a living, breathing master potter.
http://fireworkspots.com/
THE MODERN INSTITUTE
Founded in 1997 and located mid-way between Trongate and the Clyde, the simplicity
of The Modern Institute’s white-walled spaces - brainchild of Toby Webster, a key figure
in the Scottish art world - allows the work of 42 international contemporary artists -
including Urs Fischer, Martin Boyce, Jim Lambie, Richard Wright, Cathy Wilkes and
Simon Starling - to be optimally and expertly showcased to viewers and collectors alike.
www.themoderninstitute.com/

58

Penthouse Suite
King George, Athens

Terms & conditions apply. Hyatt and Grand Hyatt names, designs and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2016 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.
SIZZLING SUMMER AT GRAND HYATT DOHA.
Take advantage of our summer deals available this season between
6 June until 8 September 2016*.
Rooms & Suites:
discount on
the daily rates
33%
• Room can accommodate up to two children,
under the age of 12.
• Offer is valid for a minimum stay of 3 nights.
Villas:
30%
discount on
the daily rates
• Villas vary between two, three and four
bedrooms.
• Offer is valid for a minimum stay of 2 nights.
In-house guests receive a 20% discount on all Jaula Spa treatments, laundry services,
food and beverages (excluding room service, retail products, and tobacco).
*The above offers are subject to hotel availability.
*Blackout dates apply during Eid periods.
FOR RESERVATIONS AND MORE INFORMATION, CALL 4448 1234. HYATT. YOU’RE MORE THAN WELCOME.
doha.grand.hyatt.com Facebook/GrandHyattDoha doha.grand@hyatt.com

In spite of the country's much publicised financial
woes, the tourist industry has largely shrugged-off
Greece's economic dramas and, conversely,
benefited from a massive surge in international
visitors in search of a cultural, memorable,
value-for-money vacation. Visiting Greece has always
been a complete, all-encompassing atmospheric
holiday. Few countries can compare with the
collective experience of Greek food, music and
weather, together with its charismatic people,
historic sites, stunning beaches and clear waters. The
jewel in Greece’s tourist crown is invariably Athens,
one of the most beautiful and important cities in the
world. Few sites can compare with its spectacular
Acropolis, together with the city's wealth of
extraordinary ancient relics and museums. Marry
these with funky bars and galleries, a booming
culinary scene, jumping music culture and a
flourishing artistic underbelly, and you have the
makings of a pulsating city break in incredible
surroundings. Athens offers something for everyone
– locals, tourists, young, old, students, fashionistas,
collectors, shoppers and international jet-setters
alike.
Perfectly located at the epicentre of the Greek capital –
presiding over Syntagma and Parliament in the middle
of the famous constitutional square – is the King
George hotel, the younger, more stylish sister to
Grande Bretagne next door. These days the view
across Syntagma Square may be obscured by tear gas
after the latest round of volatile demonstrations, but
it’s all part of a long tradition of protest. The King
George offers a front-row seat for observers of
Greece’s continuing dramas acted out on its iconic
square, as well as visitors to the capital who like to be
in the heart of the action.
Formerly a royal palace and briefly a prime ministerial
residence, the King George gained fame from the
1950s onwards for its superstar clientele, hosting a
pantheon of stage and screen stars including Grace
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 61

Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot and Frank
Sinatra. But it’s the sense of serenity and unruffled
order – once through its massive metal doors from
the street – which is unique to a hotel in such a central
location. Even when the King George is running at 100
percent occupancy, you’d never know it, such is the
level of calm and Athenian class that permeates its
majestic walls. In stark contrast to its slightly more
brash hospitality sibling up the road, the King George
has a unique, upscale, boutique-like atmosphere,
skillfully combined with a tasteful, contemporary
edge. Staying at Grande Bretagne and King George
are two very different experiences, and I can now
understand why more discreet and discerning
travellers visiting Athens insist on the more bijou and
intimate of the two properties.
Few world-class hotels are able to successfully pull-off
classic style, grand gestures, sophisticated
surroundings, modern touches and personal service
all at the same time. Fewer still located in the center
of a bustling, cosmopolitan capital city, where genuine
warmth and attention to detail are so easily lost in the
hectic comings and goings of an urban hospitality hub.
From the moment I pulled-up outside the King George,
it’s obvious that it’s no ordinary five-star. The tone was
set when I entered the building into a stunning
neo-classical lobby, festooned with Murano
chandeliers and hung with contemporary works by
cutting-edge artists. As I signed the registration form,
an almost luminous, pixelated David Bowie collage
caught my eye which, in any other formal hotel lobby –
bedecked with columns and antique furniture – would
have looked dreadfully out of place. In the lobby of
King George however, the Pop Art-inspired piece by Joe
Black looked wholly at home in its lavish surroundings,
a testament to renowned Greek architect Alexandros
K. Samaras who, together with local artisans,
carried-out the renovations to the building just over a
decade ago, returning the hotel to its original
splendour while enhancing its features with chic
touches.
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 63

The doormen smiled warmly, greeting me like a
long-standing returning guest. The front desk staff
were friendly, attentive, engaged and helpful. Porters
moved my luggage around the building
inconspicuously. Housekeeping knew my surname and
how to pronounce it immediately after I’d checked-in.
Telephone operators were patient, mannered and
spoke perfect English, waiting on the line to ensure
that my Wi-Fi was working and I had everything I
needed. It was clear from the get-go that my visit to
the King George was going to be exceptional, and my
stay in the hotel's spectacular 350m2 penthouse suite
a write-home-about experience.
As one would expect of hotel accommodation in which
Madonna and Beyoncé (amongst others) have
slumbered, King George’s Penthouse Suite is quite
literally show-stopping. Yet it’s capacious, formal,
classical layout, regal furnishings and acres of marble
flooring, give way to deluxe creature comforts which
take the edge off the enormous floor-plan and
embrace its lucky inhabitants like a warm, oversized
cashmere blanket, providing supreme and decadent
comfort, infused with a delicate sense of style. Whilst
outwardly showy, proper and stately, behind the gilt,
silk and satin exterior lies an apartment-like relaxation
zone begging guests to unpack, scatter their
possessions and make themselves at home. This
wasn’t what I had been expecting at all, and I honestly
felt like I belonged just fifteen minutes after stepping
out of the airport taxi in front of the hotel – which is a
rarity for such grand lodgings.
Filling the entire ninth floor of the hotel, with direct lift
access, the rooftop two-bedroom suite is impressive
but not ridiculously overpowering. The designers have
done a great job to not make the large space feel
impersonal. The suite’s sizeable (but not obnoxiously
vast) lounge, with ample seating for ten guests, boasts
an open fireplace at its center and is dotted with
original 19th-century antiques and paintings. Off the
lounge, a large dining room with a huge, round glass
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 65

table can comfortably seat eight. Two tranquil
bedrooms, each with a fireplace and en-suites (the
master with a huge marble tub), are well separated
from each other. There are no feeble
intercommunicating doors or thin walls in this suite. In
every aspect it’s a beautifully proportioned, well laid
out, two-bedroom full-service penthouse pad,
complete with a service entrance for discreet
room-service deliveries and a butler’s kitchen.
The suite’s pièce de résistance is, without doubt, the
sprawling outdoor terrace, large private swimming
pool and ten-person Jacuzzi, all on eye-level with the
Parthenon. Large enough to comfortably host a
cocktail soirée for sixty, a seated al fresco dinner for
thirty or a wild pool-party, its majesty and glamour
cannot be properly illustrated by any photograph.
Seeing is genuinely believing. To be able to luxuriate in
a private swimming pool, eye-to-eye with one of the
world’s most iconic monuments, makes the Penthouse
Suite at the King George one of the most unique and
inimitable hotel rooms in the world.
Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in the Penthouse Suite in
May 2016.
In June and July 2016 the average nightly rate for the
Penthouse Suite is EUR 6,600 inclusive of buffet breakfast,
round-trip airport limo transfers and taxes.
www.kinggeorgeathens.com
66

68

CULTUREDCHAT
WITH
LYDIA FORTE
AT JUST 28 YEARS OF AGE, LYDIA FORTE IS AN UP-AND-COMING
HOSPITALITY FORCE TO BE RECKONED WITH. THE LUMINARY DAUGHTER
OF HOTEL BARON SIR ROCCO FORTE, THE YOUNG BUSINESSWOMAN AND
HEIRESS HAS ALREADY TAKEN CHARGE OF BAR AND RESTAURANT
DEVELOPMENT AT ROCCO FORTE HOTELS. ASHLEE STARRATT TALKED TO
THE ENTREPRENEURIAL INGÉNUE ABOUT CUISINE, CAREER AND LEGACY.
The Forte name tops the echelons of the luxury
hotel market. Growing up in the spotlight of
this industry, were you certain early on that you
would take up the family business?
No, we grew up with the business as part of dinnertime
conversation etc. But my father was very clever never
to pressure us into going into the business. When I
finished university I knew I wanted to work in
restaurants because I was passionate about the culinary
world – bars, food, design etc. I started as a waitress
and ended up managing a restaurant. Only after this
did I join Rocco Forte Hotels. But probably, somewhere
in the back of my mind, I knew that if I wanted to go
into the family business it would be a good path.
You studied modern history at Oxford,
attended culinary school at Leith’s and earned
your MBA from INSEAD. As a young hotel
heiresses you and your sister Irene share an
exceptional skill for business. What’s the best
advice your father, Sir Rocco Forte, gave you
when it comes to work ethic?
The best advice he gave me was to learn the business
from the ground upwards, and know the details, since
hospitality is all in the detailing. Then, from his
example, work hard and focus on what you’re doing.
He always reminds me to constantly continue to push
for things that you want to change - otherwise they
simply don’t happen. Suggesting a direction to our
teams, or setting up a new project, is totally useless
without the follow-through.
Forte in Italian means strong. What are your
top three strengths that have allowed you to
excel in your position of Bar and Restaurant
Development Manager for Rocco Forte Hotels?
My sister and I are both young, so hopefully we bring
a youthful perspective to the business. We’re more in
line with new trends, have time to research what’s
going on around us, and are social media savvy.
Secondly, I love working with people and in teams,
and thrive off of group discussion and brainstorming.
This business is all about people – you have to
understand your customer, but also be able to get the
best out of those you work with. Our teams of people
are the front line of communication to the guest and
unless they believe in something it will never be
executed correctly or communicated properly. Thirdly,
the business is run by a family, so we have a huge
passion for what we’re doing. Our names are above
the doors of the hotels, so we really care about what
we’re offering and how well our visions are delivered.
You’ve paid your dues starting out as a maître’d
at The Wolseley and waitressing at HIX Soho.
How important was it for you to have experience
of working your way up through the ranks?
It was one of the most important things. Now I know
what may be expected of a restaurant or bar, but also
what the practical limitations might be on
implementing change. I also think it helps for others
in the business to know that I have experience in what
I’m doing, not least it helps people buy into my vision.

Pierre Koffman
Eileen Atkins
Mick Jagger
The Beatles
Nigel Havers
Dennis Potter
Sienna Miller
Peter Blake
Marco Pierre White
Sam Smith
Eartha Kit
Joe Orton Peter Cook
Imelda Staunton
Francis Bacon
Beryl Cook
Lucien Freud
Laurence Olivier
Janis Joplin
Coco
Frankie Howard
Chanel
Ella Fitzgerald
Diana
General de Gualle
Stephen Fry
Marianne Faithfull
Kenneth Halliwell
Dudley Moore
Danny La Rue
Elton Joh
Paloma Faith
Edward Heath
Cleo Laine
Judi Dench
Frank Sinatra
A SoHo Institution
Since 1927
Restaurant & Club Privé
Bar, Restaurant
& Club Privé
L’ Escargot
Depuis 1927
•
48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF
Telephone 020 7494 1318 www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk
Monday to Sunday:
All day until 1am

When guests choose a Rocco Forte property,
they’re after a boutique hotel experience -
something that they can’t find anywhere else.
How do the brand’s food and beverage
concepts mirror this?
We try and appeal to the local market, so each
restaurant and bar is unique, tailored to the city it’s in,
and individual in its food and service offerings. Also,
because we are still a relatively small company, I can
personally visit every restaurant and bar and develop
the details of the concept with our local teams –
there’s no copy and paste. For example, we just
launched Sophia’s at The Charles hotel in Munich. The
concept was developed around the botanical gardens
next door and the beautiful terrace we have (the hotel
is in a very green area), with lots of dishes and
cocktails utilising fresh herbs, spices, vegetables and
fruits. The restaurant has really been created for locals.
We like the restaurants and bars in our hotels to be a
local meeting place and reference point for the city.
You’ve spearheaded the revamps of Irene at
Florence’s Hotel Savoy and La Banca at Hotel
de Rome. What’s your process when it comes to
conceptualising a
new vision for a
restaurant?
My process starts with
market research. What
MY FATHER ALWAYS REMINDS ME
TO CONSTANTLY CONTINUE TO
PUSH FOR THINGS THAT I WANT
TO CHANGE - OTHERWISE THEY
SIMPLY DON’T HAPPEN.
does the city need? Who is our target audience? Is
there a niche we can fill? I then look at our strengths
and capabilities. We work with Michelin-starred,
Italian chef, Fulvio Piernagelini, and often produce
Italian food – either based on a specific region of Italy,
or, more broadly, Mediterranean food - because I
know we can execute it exceptionally well and
authentically.
Where I see a market needs something more
specific - like in Shanghai where we’re opening a hotel
in January 2018 and we must have a Chinese
restaurant - I’ll always get expert advice, since I want
to make sure that everything we do, we do it very well
and are respectful of the local tradition and expertise.
In a world of Instagram foodies and cultured
travellers, everyone’s a critic when it comes to
what’s on their plate. What would you say are
the most palate-pleasing trends at the moment
and do you conform to them or prefer to break
new ground?
Seasonal and local produce has been a trend for a
long time, but that’s something I would never
compromise on. More than that now, there is a strong
push towards foods that
are good for you, but still
delicious. At the moment,
I’m concentrating on food
that’s fresh and light,
IRENE, SIR ROCCO AND LYDIA FORTE
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 71

especially vegetables and fish.
In Florence, we have launched Irene at The Savoy -
named after my grandmother who was a superb
Italian cook. Fulvio Pierangelini developed a Tuscan
menu with a fresher, lighter edge – Tuscan cuisine can
often be very heavy, filled with fried food and lots of
bread. We serve traditional Tuscan dishes with a
feminine touch and have introduced a variety of
lighter soups and fresh vegetable dishes. In the dining
room nothing is too formal. This is another trend that I
like at the moment - people want to feel relaxed when
they dine out, and should be able to wear a dress and
heels or jeans and a t-shirt without feeling out of
place.
What new Rocco Forte properties are planned
and what can a discerning guest look forward to
from their culinary offerings?
We’re on the cusp of launching a hotel in Jeddah,
Saudi Arabia, that will house seven different outlets,
with restaurants ranging from an Argentinean
steakhouse to an Arabic Mediterranean restaurant.
Following that, we’re launching a hotel in Shanghai in
early 2018. We’re currently developing those concepts
now, but we’ll definitely
have a Chinese
restaurant and an Italian
all-day dining concept
with a more osteria
style. We’ll also create a rooftop bar boasting
spectacular views of Shanghai.
THIS BUSINESS IS ALL ABOUT
PEOPLE – YOU HAVE TO
UNDERSTAND YOUR CUSTOMER, BUT
ALSO BE ABLE TO GET THE BEST
OUT OF THOSE YOU WORK WITH.
Throughout the Rocco Forte group’s eleven
luxury properties, which food and beverage
concept was the most challenging to execute
and why?
In Jeddah we’ll have an Arabic Mediterranean
restaurant on the rooftop called Aubergine. Finding the
talent to work in the outlet and prepare the food has
been hard since securing work visas can be difficult.
Also, since Levant food and Arabic Mediterranean is a
cuisine the locals know and understand very well, we
have to execute it extremely well. I don’t want ours to
be just another Lebanese restaurant. So a lot of
thought has gone into the style of offerings (we
broadened it to Arabic Mediterranean to be able to
offer slightly more diverse dishes), the setting of the
restaurant with its amazing views, and the quality of
the food. I’m working closely with a consultant
Lebanese chef to ensure that the food is exquisite.
As a Londoner, where’s your go-to place when
you want to escape prying eyes and enjoy a
little privacy? Apart
from home, of
course.
It’s easy to hide in
London amongst the
THE CHARLES HOTEL, MUNICH
LA BANCA AT HOTEL DE ROME
HOTEL SAVOY, FLORENCE
BALMORAL, EDINBURGH
72 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

hustle and bustle, and avoid bumping into people
because it’s so big! I live in Chelsea and work in
Mayfair, so anywhere further afield. Soho has fun and
often extremely good restaurants with niche and
unique concepts which are always worth trying. Bao
only serves its namesake steamed buns. Bubbledogs
for hotdogs and champagne. Duck & Rice is a Chinese
gastropub by Alan Yao. Kitty Fisher’s in Shepherd’s
Market is one of my favourites because the food is
wonderful and the setting is so cozy. Ruth Rogers of
The River Café has been an remarkable culinary
visionary, offering authentic and high-quality Italian
food, in a clean, beautiful space, which somehow has
remained contemporary since the 1980’s.
You’ve been working full time for your father’s
company for the last two years. Do you see
yourself carrying on the legacy of the Forte
brand into the future, or are there business
ventures of your own you plan to pursue?
Never say never – there are lots of ideas in my head
for projects I could imagine starting further down the
line. But I definitely see myself working full-time for
the business and in the longer term I would always
want to be heavily
involved, no matter
what other projects I
might have on the side
in the future.
OUR NAMES ARE ABOVE THE
DOORS OF THE HOTELS, SO WE
REALLY CARE ABOUT WHAT
WE’RE OFFERING AND HOW WELL
OUR VISIONS ARE DELIVERED.
From Florence to Frankfurt, one of the
hallmarks of Rocco Forte hotels are their
locations in the heart of the world’s cultural
capitals. No two properties are alike. In terms of
guest experience, how does each strive to
reflect their surroundings?
My aunt Olga Polizzi is Director of Design; she founded
the company with my father. She often uses local
artists or furniture or fabric designers in order to really
capture the local setting. The buildings themselves are
often historic buildings, seeping with the culture of the
city they’re in. I’ve worked with local galleries to
showcase local artists in many of our outlets. We also
always want the people of the city to use the
restaurants and hotels as well as guests - whether for
celebrations, meetings, or casual gatherings with
friends – this brings a local feel to the outlets. Our
concierges are also amazing at ensuring our guests
experience the best of the city - so whilst we bring the
city into the hotel, we also send our guests out to
experience the best of the city. As a family we travel to
our hotels all the time, so we know the cities really well
and try and offer the best of each to our guests.
Rocco Forte Hotels
carries the weight of
its name and heritage
behind it. As a young
businesswoman,

what fresh perspectives do you bring to the
table to make sure its legacy and services
remain relevant and sought after?
Food & Beverage is a great entry point for new trends
in hospitality. For example, Rocco Forte Nourish is
something I’m developing with my sister, partnering
with local nutritionist personalities across the group to
develop healthy menus, healthy mini-bar and
nourishing breakfast buffet offerings – basically to be
able to offer access to healthy food and drink at all
touchpoints of the hotel. Then of course, we both
push the importance of social media presence, and
I’ve always attempted to market our F&B outlets
separately to the hotels. Traditionally, hoteliers have
seen F&B as a guest service rather than an
opportunity to draw locals into your hotel; this is
something I have tried to do. Also, we’re always happy
to try new things, travelling to and eating in unusual
places, so that gives me new ideas that my father
might not necessarily have come across.
These days, when a TripAdvisor review can
make or break a property’s reputation, how fast
have hoteliers had to adapt their marketing and
customer service
strategies to
accommodate the
digital deluge?
Honestly, if your service
AS A FAMILY WE TRAVEL TO
OUR HOTELS ALL THE TIME, SO
WE KNOW THE CITIES REALLY
WELL AND TRY AND OFFER THE
BEST OF EACH TO OUR GUESTS.
is good, that’s reflected in TripAdvisor. I do monitor
our standing for restaurants because today’s customer
does check TripAdvisor - it’s a fact – and because it
gives me an idea of what we are offering in terms of
quality. Though I also think that people know how to
read between the lines a bit. I don’t think one review is
as dramatic as make-or-break, but it’s the overall
impression that’s left by a number of reviews that
matters.
Who are the notable culinary superstars on
Rocco Forte’s payroll? Any Michelin-stars under
their aprons?
Well, of course, Fulvio Pierangelini - he’s our Well, of
course, Fulvio Pierangelini - he’s our Creative
Director of Food and had two Michelin stars at his
last restaurant which is now closed - Gambero Rosso
in San Vincenzo, Tuscany. That’s where we first met
him as we have a family home nearby. Also, Jeff
Bland and Brian Grigor at the Balmoral in Edinburgh
who have recently achieved the latest of their
Michelin stars – 13 years in a row now - at Number
One. We also have Mark Hix at Brown’s - not a
Michelin-starred chef, but nevertheless a big name.
Though, of course, all
our executive chefs are
brilliant and focus on
the extremely hard job
of managing big teams,
74 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

running extremely busy kitchens open 24/7, and
delivering excellent food, day in and day out.
You oversee all food and beverage development
and performance across the company’s portfolio
of properties. How do you maintain your
energy? Walk us through a typical work day.
Every day is a bit different. A typical work week is
travelling to one of our hotels on Mondays and
Tuesdays, a different one each week, sometimes for a
bit longer. When I travel, I pack in a lot; I try something
new in the city to keep up-to-date with new trends –
but then of course have to experience our own
offerings as much as possible, squeeze in meetings
and do emails via my iPhone.
In London, I wake up at 7am, have a gym session
and head into the office on Jermyn Street. I like to
organise meetings outside of the office at our hotel,
Brown’s, to see the service and offerings there as
much as possible - but also to create diversity in the
day which keeps me focused. We have an open-plan
office, so other people keep me energised and
motivated with questions, demands and meetings. I
thrive off interaction with other people so like to
resolve things in person
- though of course
there are lots of emails.
When I’m in London I
spend a lot of time
I DON’T THINK ONE TRIPADVISOR
REVIEW IS AS DRAMATIC AS
MAKE-OR-BREAK, BUT IT’S THE
OVERALL IMPRESSION THAT’S LEFT
BY A NUMBER THAT MATTERS.
catching up on emails I’ve missed whilst travelling. I
also thrive off diversity, so I try and work on a couple
of projects at a time, otherwise I tend to get a bit
bored and lose motivation - though mostly there’s no
choice about working on more than one project at
once!
As someone who lives, sleeps and breathes
five-star culinary concepts for a living, we want
to know where’s your favourite London
hole-in-the-wall take-away or street food spot?
Matcha lattés with almond milk from Raw Press on
Dover Street (and also their raw lunch salads), pizzas
from La Delizia in Chelsea on the street I grew up, and
jamon sandwiches from Fernandez & Wells in Soho.
Of all the countries you’ve been to during your
travels, which regional cuisine do you most
draw inspiration from when it comes to
conceptualising a new menu or restaurant idea
for Rocco Forte Hotels?
Mostly Italian, but then of course we often develop
concepts around a local cuisine, and anything goes if
we have more than one restaurant. I personally love
Japanese, Chinese
(Szechuan & Cantonese),
Indian, Spanish and
Peruvian foods. Basically
everything!
BROWNS HOTEL
HOTEL ASTORIA, ST. PETERSBURG
HOTEL DE RUSSIE, ROME
HOTEL DE ROME, BERLIN

THE JET SET
The rise of private jet travel has officially surpassed the
cushioned crust of the mega-wealthy upper classes, the
super-famous, and Presidential hopefuls on the
campaign trail. With affordable, all-business-class
airlines taking to the skies, a new level of flying
experience is quickly becoming akin to being part of a
secret air travel fraternity. French all-business-class
carrier, La Compagnie, will effortlessly shuttle you
between London, Paris and New York in the lap of
luxury. Hanging out in a premium-class, upstairs lounge
on an A380 feels a lot like a private members’ club in
the sky – while several full-service commercial carriers,
including multi-award-winning Qatar Airways, operate a
select number of scheduled flights with all first-class
cabins…which is pretty damn exclusive. Nowadays, an
increasing number of private jet companies are making
their services much more accessible to mortals -
meaning that astute travellers can fly on a private
individuals, while groups of less than ten are transported
through the skies in a strikingly stylish Italian Piaggio
P180 Avanti 11 plane. You can be sure that Aman's guests
are obnoxiously pampered while in the air, yet places
start at a not-completely-unreasonable GBP 20,000 per
person. Yes, this is a lot of money, but it's certainly not
outrageous – especially when you take into account that
all flights and suites are included in the price, and you’ll
most likely be one of a single-digit group, waited on hand
and foot by Aman’s local hotel managers and
highly-experienced concierges throughout.
We’re hearing about private jet travel much more often in
daily life, so it’s to be expected that more premium
hospitality brands will jump on the elite tour bandwagon
before the year is out – not least because so many private
charter companies are actively pushing their services
towards the aspirational upper-middle classes. Private jets
FOUR SEASONS JET
FOUR SEASONS JET CABIN
aircraft for the cost of an economy ticket (or less!) if
they know how, and where, to shop.
Last year, premium hospitality brand, Four Seasons,
began offering its top-tier clientele carefully-curated
itineraries, flying between up to ten destinations on a
luxuriously-appointed custom-designed Boeing 757 Four
Seasons Jet. With just over fifty plush, Italian leather seats
as opposed to the aircraft’s standard 233, Four Seasons'
private jet passengers are served Dom Perignon
throughout and if the cabin temperature’s too nippy,
they’re swathed in Mongolian cashmere throws.
More recently, premium resort group Aman started
inviting its loyal clientele on one or two-week-long private
jet ‘expeditions’ to its most luxurious Asian properties,
touching-down at three or four locations with no more
than a dozen passengers aboard a Gulfstream. Some
Aman private jet tours are tailored to just eight
are gradually being seeped into our subconscious travel
psyche, like luxury scents added to the air-con of Las Vegas
mega-hotels to entice guests to spend and gamble more.
In a world where flying business class has become as
commonplace as wearing a handmade suit or flashy watch
(how many of us know at least one person who owns a
watch worth a month’s salary?), successful and busy
individuals for whom flying in business in the norm, are
now looking to up the ante of their luxury flying
experience. This means moving up a tier to first-class, or
increasing their comfort further by opting for
super-premium products like Emirates' first class cabins, or
Etihad's The Residence - an über-apartment-within-a-plane
where passengers have their own bedroom, bathroom and
small, private lounge. Etihad even provides a personal,
Savoy-trained butler to passengers travelling in The
Residence. But whilst The Residence has fast become a hit
(having Nicole Kidman as an endorser doesn’t hurt!),
there's a fine line between parting with GBP 20,000 for two
76 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

passengers to cross the Atlantic one-way in The Residence,
or even parting with GBP 5,000 for a first-class return, and
chartering a private jet.
Savvy fliers have been pooling their travelling resources
and flying privately for some time now, but today it’s
happening much more often. This is especially true in the
U.S. thanks to private jet companies like Surf Air, which
Forbes called "One of America's most promising
companies of 2015". Based on America's West Coast, Surf
Air offers unlimited private plane flights between more
than a dozen California and Nevada cities (including L.A.
and Las Vegas) for a one-time joining fee of USD 1,000
plus a membership fee of USD 1,950 per month. The
subscription-based airline operates up to 90 daily flights –
any of which can be private to a member – and is rapidly
growing its list of destinations. Surf Air passengers are
greeted by a concierge, bypass airport security, get free
handful of sites and private jet companies are following
the lead of hotel websites, offering last-minute deals on
unused inventory and empty legs. Empty legs are private
jet flights returning aircraft back to base without the
human cargo they’ve just ferried somewhere at full fare.
Because empty legs are just that - empty one-way flights -
the company earns a little bit of extra cash (it's already
made its profit out of the full fare, outbound hire), while
the consumer gets a cut-price private jet experience that
includes the flexibility to show up 15 minutes before
take-off, board, and fly.
British Uber-style phone app, Victor, allows you to book –
at a fraction of the full fare cost – empty legs on executive
jets that are idling when owners are not using them.
(www.flyvictor.com). The empty legs advertised on
www.privatefly.com include available one-way flights on
the PrivateFly network and are updated daily with the
SURF AIR PLANE
WHEELS UP PLANE CABIN
parking and checked luggage, and board a plane within a
few minutes of arriving at the airport. Though Surf Air's
fleet may be single-engine turboprops with a lot less
legroom than a Gulfstream, they’re private flights
nonetheless and the cost is much more affordable. In the
U.S. for starters, the Netflix model of unlimited usage for
a fixed monthly subscription seems to be working for
private jet travel – so much so that 400 people are waiting
to join Surf Air (www.surfair.com). It’s former co-founder,
Wade Eyerly, has recently joined Wheels Up, a private
aviation business that sells memberships and on-demand
flights, charging its customers USD 17,500 to join and
USD 3,950 an hour to fly anywhere within the U.S. on
short notice using larger, slightly more luxurious
Beechcraft King Air 350i twin turboprop nine-seater
aircraft (www.wheelsup.com).
For the less regular private jet user, (or for those whose
schedules can accommodate a last-minute booking), a
latest prices and empty legs. And even www.JetSuite.com
– which flies to over 2,000 airports and provides
upper-end private jet travel to a core market of
high-flying business execs – aggregates private jet flights
with empty seats to offer daily cut-price, next-day deals
with the possibility to hire an entire six-seater plane for
just over USD 500 one-way within the U.S.
Like rail travel in the early decades of the 20th century, and
its exclusive club cars aboard the Orient Express, we’ve
entered the golden age of private jet transit. With
subscription-based clubs becoming more widespread it
may only be a matter of time before premium, commercial
passengers start ditching cavernous, impersonal airports
and double-decker jets en masse. in favour of VIP airfields
and smaller planes. When it comes to gliding off to cultured
getaway destinations, relaxation and refinement are the
calling cards of the modern jet set.
Nicholas Chrisostomou

SKY BRIEF
PRIVATE JETS FOR PETS Heathrow-based Airpets, the U.K.'s only pet
relocation company with a full suite of facilities at London's biggest airport, has
launched the country's first luxury air travel service, tailored to pampered
animals and their doting owners - Kennel Club Class. Airpets uses a Cessna
Citation Bravo jet to transport pet and owner together in the aircraft cabin to
destinations throughout Europe and beyond. Of course private jet travel means
you can always take your pet on the plane with you, but Airpets ensures that all
the documentation is in perfect order. A larger Bombardier Challenger executive
aircraft is available for longer distance flights.
www.airpets.com/kennel-club-class
JETSMARTER A new American private transportation startup launched out
of Fort Lauderdale, Florida, already has many frequent flyers Stateside calling it
the Uber of private jet travel. Supported by the Saudi Royal family, rap mogul Jay-Z
plus USD 50 million of venture-capital funding, what JetSmarter is doing so well,
is combine three different flying services into a one-stop shop. Members are
offered free scheduled JetShuttle flights, last-minute JetDeals and JetCharter
chartered flights - all bookable via a single easy-to-use app. Annual members’ fees
of USD 9,000 include unlimited free JetShuttle flights and, most recently,
schedule-free flights within Europe with private aircraft winging between London,
Paris, Nice and other locations. www.jetsmarter.com
THE PRICIEST AIRPORTS TO LAND A JET Owning and
operating a jet is only half the cost for the privilege of flying in style and privacy at
a moment's notice. Jet owners must continually pay for landing fees which can
reach into the thousands every time time they touch down. This is why
subscription-based private flying clubs such as Surf Air, and membership-based,
private jet charter companies such as PrivateFly and JetSuite, are becoming
increasingly popular.
The three most expensive airports to land a private jet are all in Japan. The
priciest is Tokyo's Haneda Airport which handles 70 million passengers per year
and charges USD 7,000 for the privilege of landing in the Japanese capital. Next
up is Tokyo's Narita Airport which charges just under USD 6,000. Coming a close
third, Kansai Airport in Osaka charges USD 5,500 to land. The most expensive
airport to land your plane in the U.S. is New York’s La Guardia which charges a
cool USD 4,000.
NEW GOOGLE TERMINAL OPENS In 2013, Google founders Larry
Page, Sergey Brin and Eric Schmidt won approval to build a private USD 82
million terminal at Silicon Valley’s Mineta San Jose International Airport,
catering to the numerous high-flying tech execs who use private jets like the
rest of the population uses taxi-cabs. The new private terminal at Mineta isn’t
entirely Google-owned and operated however – Blue City Holdings LLC (which
operates the private aircraft of Page, Brin and Schmidt) is a significant
investor, and is the Signature Flight Support facility's largest tenant, leasing
190k of the 250k square-feet of hangar space.
The new terminal revels in the kind of technology that Silicon Valley is
known for - partnering with The Tech Museum of Innovation to showcase
exhibits throughout the year. Passengers and crew – who mingle together
pre-flight – can also take a load off in the Tech Garden, an outdoor botanical
green lounge, adjacent to the terminal. www.signatureflight.com
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 79

No Shoes Required
Renowned for its happening waterfront parties, glamorous beach-club and
boho-chic ambiance, Maçakızı should be on every cultured traveller’s holiday
checklist. Dawn Gibson finds out why this exotic Aegean resort is still
glittering after nearly 40 sultry Turkish summers.
80

Perhaps no other country has stood at the cultural crossroads
of history quite like Turkey – seat of the Ottoman
Empire and a centuries-old hub for trade along the Silk
Road. Cross Istanbul’s shimmering Bosphorus River and
you have one foot in Europe and one in Asia…quite
literally. A nation that has survived its share of tumultuous
epochs, to this day Turkey and its people continue to stand
strong in the face of recent adversity. Tourism relatively
unshaken, the southern reaches of its Riviera remain
steadfast as coastal enclaves, and a veritable playground
for Europe’s elite. Most notably? The Bodrum Peninsula,
home to iconic Maçakızı resort.
It’s a beautifully balmy morning at this hide-away
of the rich and famous, the sunlight darting
playfully across the sparkling blue bay. From the
expansive balcony, lush greenery studded with
bright, pink pops of bougainvillea waves
welcomingly in the slight breeze, framing the stunning view
of the Aegean Sea below. A series of terraces and decks form
a jumbled procession down the hill towards the water, where
a sleek modern yacht and a traditional Turkish gulet bob a
stone’s throw from one another - each an artefact of its time.
Welcome to Maçakızı. This swish boutique resort has for
decades been a hot-spot for international travellers in search
of an exclusive, upscale barefoot-luxury experience. It’s all
about boho-chic comfort, effortless style and laid-back
glamour - where ladies’ shoes are off but their toes are
perfectly manicured and twinkling in the Mediterranean sun.
Models with over-sized shades and designer bikinis recline,
draped elegantly over sun-loungers. DJs spin undulating
house music and survey the scene as movers and shakers sip
deluxe sunset cocktails in the open-air lounge. The
dress-code is smart-casual with a nod to the latest seasonal
trends - towering seventies-style wedge sandals,
strategically ripped white jeans, matte pouts and a hint of
sass – people stroll into the party as if they are walking off a
yacht, because…well, they are. Known far and wide for its
stylish waterfront parties, Maçakızı attracts its share of
international A-listers and Istanbul’s rich and beautiful.
Recent guests have included Kate Moss and Naomi
Campbell, and if Beyoncé were to sashay her way across the
sun-deck, no one would bat an eye. It’s that kind of place.
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 83

We arrived in the early hours of the morning after catching a
flight from London to Bodrum - the Turkish peninsula
famous for its gorgeous beach resorts and buzzing nightlife.
A direct flight is just four hours from the U.K., Western
Europe or the Middle East, making it an easy long-weekend
destination. If you’re taking a non-direct flight via Istanbul,
as we did, you’ll arrive at the domestic terminal but your
luggage will come around the carousel at the international.
It’s not a hassle - the distance between terminals is five
minutes - but it’s worth knowing in advance.
Maçakızı is on the north side of the Bodrum peninsula, in a
little village called Türkbükü, roughly 40 kms from the
airport and 22 kms from Bodrum’s city centre. We were met
at the airport by the hotel valet and whisked away on a very
comfortable 45-minute ride in a roomy Porsche Cayenne.
Despite being tired upon arrival, it was hard not to be
immediately impressed by the elegant simplicity of our luxe Sea
View Villa Suite – home for the next three days. Reminiscent of
a millionaire’s beach-house, the space was a capacious, cool
haven of cream walls, minimalist wood furniture and works by
contemporary Turkish artists, fronted by floor-to-ceiling glass
windows to take full advantage of the lush view. Leading off the
lounge were two spacious bedrooms, each with a king-sized
French bed, complete with en-suite bathrooms and walk-in
wardrobes. A dreamy kind of peacefulness permeated, a ‘let’s
kick our shoes off and really get comfortable’ vibe, enhanced by
little touches such as a day-bed nook with its own special
picture-window and a majlis-worth of comfy cushions, as
well as a supremely relaxing rainfall shower accessorized
with Acqua di Parma toiletries.
Owned by the same Turkish family since the late 1970s,
Maçakızı was initially envisaged as a haven for writers,
painters and other artists who drew inspiration from its
illusive essence. With 53 rooms and 21 suites, these days its
clientele is as likely to include an arthouse film director or
fashion photographer, as the next Hemingway. An air of
creative quirkiness gently saturates the atmosphere. An
oversized Picasso print hangs in the bathroom off the bar,
and a jumble of art and fashion-led coffee-table books are
scattered throughout the open-air reception like Easter eggs
for the cultured enthusiast.
84 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

Waking up the first morning, I slipped on a plush robe
and padded outside to the deck, which spanned the entire
length of the suite. The view was nothing short of
perfection – a dazzling panorama of gentle, deep blue sea,
fringed by distant hills dotted with white villas. I could
have sat there all day drinking in its calm, but I was keen
to explore more of the surroundings. We ambled to the
central restaurant for a buffet breakfast crafted with
exquisitely fresh produce. The homemade granola with
berries was notably scrumptious, as were the cinnamon
fig rolls and herb cheese pastries – we nibbled on several
different kinds before ordering omelettes from the egg
station. Our hunger slaked, we made our way through the
gardens, down the hill to the water’s edge, where an
impressive sun-deck took pride of place, centred by a
large, square al fresco bar, staffed with a small army of
suave-looking, white-clad waiters. Maçakızı’s private
boat was moored alongside – should the urge to go on a
day-trip to the nearby Greek isles of Kos or Rhodes
strike. We took up residence on two sun-loungers,
devoting much of the day to the serious business of
relaxation – books in hand and icy glasses within reach.
We could have rolled-over and slid straight into the
azure-blue waters of the Aegean if we'd wanted to.
Dozing and watching the clouds drift, we noted the
comings and goings on the bay – there was a high-society
wedding planned for the weekend and well-heeled guests
were arriving on a flotilla of yachts, ferried to the resort
with their designer luggage in groups of twos and threes.
I’d considered wandering up to the spa for a traditional
Turkish hammam but the people-watching was far too
good, so I stayed put, casually glancing up from behind
my sunglasses as a steady procession of bronzed glitterati
sauntered past.
The sun set over an indulgent three-course dinner later that
evening at Maçakızı’s well-regarded fine-dining restaurant.
It’s white linen-clad tables set up on an airy terrace, the
cuisine was succulent Mediterranean with a strong emphasis
on seafood. All dishes were beautifully cooked, well
presented yet unpretentious. We favoured the juicy,
pan-seared scallops with risotto-style potato and caper-raisin
vinaigrette, and the butter-soft sea bass with a pepper-herb
coulis, fennel and Kalamata olive salad.

The remainder of our stay was
an easy pattern of ritual
sun-worship and sunset drinks,
punctuated by walks along the
palm-lined promenade of
Türkbükü in search of
increasingly interesting flavours
of ice cream (the mulberry and
tangerine were our favourite
finds), and returning to the
comfortable sanctuary of our
lavish villa by the sea.
To leave Maçakızı without
experiencing one of its infamous
parties would have been remiss,
and, happily, we were lucky
enough to catch one the evening
before we flew out. As the sun
sank deeper in the sky, the
atmosphere on the sun-deck
altered as the stars appeared –
the relaxing day-time beat
giving way to the sultrier pulse
of night. The swimwear and
sarongs were replaced with
sharp Breton tops, crisp linen
trousers and elegant sundresses.
Fine gold jewellery was on
subtle display, curved about
long swan-like necks, while
ringed fingers arched delicately
around the stems of wine
glasses. We positioned ourselves
on a plump sofa, ordering gin
cucumber mules with a savage
kick of fresh ginger, as the
conversation flowed around us
in half a dozen languages, the
waiters milling about with
platters of mezze. The cocktails
were refreshingly good and it
was hard to stop at just a few.
As the night shifted up a gear
the dancing began in earnest, the
deck transforming into a club
lounge. As the moon rode the
sky towards dawn, it was time
for us to slip away to catch our
flight, reluctantly leaving the
revelers to continue ‘til
day-break without us, our
recollections of our time at the
resort lingering, memories as
tangible and fresh as the
off-shore glow of a Turkish
sunrise over Maçakızı.
www.macakizi.com
86

88

SPOTLIGHT
Nicholas Chrisostomou visits the Taj Mahal
and discovers that the iconic Indian wonder
is even more spellbinding than the hype
Photographs by Nicholas Chrisostomou
I have travelled a fair amount of the world, visited all seven continents, seen everything from indigenous
settlements to the big five, gazed down on New York from the top of the Twin Towers and stood inside
Gaudi’s dazzling Sagrada Familía in Barcelona. I like to think that little phases me these days. It may sound
corny, but nothing quite prepared me for my maiden visit to the Taj Mahal, and my first glimpse of the
shimmering, ivory marble mausoleum, built in 1631-1653 on the banks of the Yamuna River near Agra, by
Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, to house the tomb of his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal.

T
he Taj Mahal is an architectural gem you're taught
about at school. It's probably the best-known
building in the world, pretty much everyone
grows-up aware of its existence and its story of love draws
millions of visitors every year. So on the morning of my
visit, I was as excited as anyone would be, when about to see
one of the wonders of the modern world. But such is the
Taj's reputation, the prospect of actually seeing it, for me,
ran the risk of not living-up to the historical hype. I can tell
you first hand that this is not the case. If you visit one
historic monument in your lifetime, make sure it's the Taj
Mahal. It's well worth the pilgrimage.
Contrary to popular belief, it is relatively straightforward
and stress-free to visit the Taj in one day, even if you want to
spend three hours at the site, which is average. Unless you
plan to spend a few days in Agra, there's really no need to
stay in one of the pricey hotels close-by. An organised and
resolute traveller can fly into New Delhi the night before, get
a decent sleep, rise early, be driven straight to Agra at the
crack of dawn, tour the site in the morning, drive back, rest,
and hop on a plane out of the heavily-polluted Indian capital
that evening. Depending on the time you set off from New
Delhi (and the competence of the person behind the wheel),
the drive to Agra usually takes three hours. If you're staying
in decent lodgings in New Delhi, it's a good idea to
pre-order a hotel-packed lunch. The airport-style security at
the Taj is pretty tight, and a number of items are banned, so
leave big bags in your hotel or with your driver. Anything
edible is not allowed in, so eat before you enter the complex.
Take bottled water.
To safeguard the Taj from further pollution damage,
motorised vehicles are banned from within 500 metres of the
complex, and the building is the subject of an ongoing
cleaning program. Two of the minarets were scaffolded when
I visited, and plans are afoot to clean the facade and dome at
some stage during the next few years, so if securing the
perfect photographic memory of your visit is vital, best check
with the authorities what's being cleaned before you set-off.
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 91

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Of the three entrance gates (East, South and West) the East
and West open earliest (dawn), and the West is closest to the
main parking area and ticket office. The complex is closed
on Fridays. I paid Rs 20 (25 pence) to be ferried by rickshaw
to the ticket office. The entrance fee for a foreigner is Rs 750
(GBP 8). Arriving between 8am - 9am is best to avoid the
crowds and miss the early morning rush. From 10am
onwards tourists arrive by the coach load, in vast numbers
and huge groups. You should aim to be in by 8.30am and
out by 11am latest. I visited in January, which was perfect,
but any of the winter months will do. The heat coupled with
the amount of tourist traffic in the summer months are
unbearable.
Subject to careful selection, hiring a guide to escort you
around the site is a must, and an invaluable accessory to
enjoy the place without being bogged-down by hours of
pre-recorded waffle. Visiting the Taj Mahal is all about
seeing, gazing and wondering. Not being plugged-in and
told what to look at by a machine. Our guide, Vikas, was
eloquent, highly knowledgeable, professional and incredibly
polite (+91 94585 01468), and a bargain at Rs 2,000 (roughly
GBP 20). Plus he took lots of excellent snaps, freeing me up
to look around and fully immerse myself in the magnificent
splendour of it all. And astonishingly splendid it was.
Once I had bought my ticket, cleared security and was in
Jilaukhana - the large, central arcaded forecourt - my eyes
were inextricably drawn through Darwaza-i Rauza (“Gate of
the Mausoleum”) towards the world-famous white marvel.
That first glimpse of the Taj will most likely stay with me for
the rest of my days. From that moment on, my travelling
companion and our tour guide barely heard a squeak out of
me. I was quite literally spellbound, awestruck and virtually
mute for the best part of an hour. As I ambled under the great
gate - beneath its mammoth red sandstone edifice, upon
which beautiful calligraphic inscriptions from the Qur’an
invite believers into paradise - I felt as if I was passing from
the harsh, real world, through a gateway into a tranquil place
where beauty, time and peace standstill in perfect accord.
DARWAZA-I RAUZA June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 93

The mausoleum itself is flanked by
two virtually identical, imposing
buildings, which in any other
setting would standout. One is a
mosque and the other an assembly
hall. In front of the giant marble
platform (upon which sits the Taj) is
a large expanse of lovingly
tendered, perfectly symmetrical
Persian-style gardens, separated
into sections by a variety of lawns,
waterways and wide paths.
Roughly halfway between the gate
and the mausoleum, on a platform
above the central water channel, is
what has become known as the
Princess Diana Bench. Having made
the long journey to Agra, I defy
anyone to resist having their photo
snapped here! I had to wait for a
few minutes for the privilege to
momentarily rest my posterior on
the same slab of marble as Diana,
but there was a sense of touristic
achievement when I sat there. Not
to mention a social media-worthy
image, or two.
Understandably, access to the
mausoleum platform is carefully
controlled to avoid overcrowding
and protect the main attraction, and
shoe covers must be worn at all
times (provided FOC). For me the
extraordinarily memorable
experience of visiting the Taj, lay in
wondering around and exploring
the entire site, not seeing a singular
part, detail or treasure. It was all
serene and stunning in different
ways. Yes, the mausoleum
contained wonderful floral mosaic
designs using semi-precious stones,
surrounded by intricately carved
marble screens. And the inlaid
stonework around the outside walls
of the mausoleum was bewildering.
But there was literally majestic
splendour at every turn, and each
visitor to the Taj Mahal gleans his or
her own personal memories of their
visit to this glorious jewel in India’s
crown. Even as I was virtually out
of the door, I was looking back to
catch my last, final glimpses, such is
the silent beauty of this building
that has captured hearts for
generations, and truly captivated
mine.
www.tajmahal.gov.in
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 95

PYONGYANG
TRAVELLER
LOWDOWN
NORTH KOREA
BEYOND THE 38 TH PARALLEL
From its insular heart to the barbed-wire borders
marking the no-man’s land of its DMZ, North Korea
remains a world apart to its closest neighbours and
a veritable mystery to the West. The allure of its
enigma continues to draw speculation, as only a
few intrepid tourists venture forth in an effort to
understand the country and its people.
Greg Turnbull was one of them, trekking to
Pyongyang for a rare glimpse into the hermit
kingdom. Like Hotel California, he could check in
any time he liked, but could he ever leave?
On the Korean Peninsula the outside world ceases
to exist above the 38 th Parallel. Cut off in
isolation and frozen in time is a country subject
to countless rumours and propaganda, whose
population has never used the internet, and
where a meal with meat is a luxury. Welcome to
North Korea - the hermit kingdom. A locale for the truly
adventurous traveller, every interaction is an encounter with a
mysterious culture that relatively few people on Earth have
experienced. The only way to dispel (and affirm!) some of the
myths of the Democratic People’s Republic is to see for yourself.
I had the idea of travelling to this strange country while chatting to
an old college friend. We studied Russian together in 1984 when
the Soviet Union existed and the Second Cold War was in its death
throes, and we reminisced about how we’d probably never again
experience such feelings of fear and excitement as when we were
on placement in the USSR. “What about North Korea?” I said. We
began by contacting one of the few agents dealing with such an
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 97

excursion, Koryo Tours, based in Beijing. The only way for
tourists to get to the country is via China, as no other airlines fly in
or out of Pyongyang. Once you book, you attend a ‘briefing’ at
your Beijing agent’s office, where they tell you what you can and
can't do once you cross the border. To get there you can fly in or
out, take the train, or a combination of both. We chose to train in
and fly out, which in retrospect was the best way, seeing as it
provided us with one of the most frightening, exciting and
unforgettable moments of my entire life.
The sleeper train from Beijing leaves in
the evening and arrives at the Chinese
border city of Dandong around 20 hours
later. At this point you have to wait as
the Chinese train uncouples and the
North Korean train gets attached. At this
moment my heart was in my mouth. In
what Koryo Tours' director Nick Bonner
described as "One of the world's last
great frontiers", I waved goodbye to
contact with the outside world as the
train slowly clanked across the
Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge.
The first thing I noticed, as a smartphone user, was that as soon as
we were on the bridge there was no internet access. My heart was
pounding in my chest. As the train shuffled onto North Korean
soil, I peered out of the window onto a world that time forgot. It
was as if I had time-travelled 50 years into the past. As we pulled
into Sinuiju station, men were digging on the tracks, while others
on the embankment held ropes snaking under the spades of those
below, like a human version of a mechanical digger. A van stood
“Cut off in isolation and
frozen in time is a country
subject to countless
rumours and propaganda,
whose population has
never used the internet,
and where a meal with
meat is a luxury.”
nearby, blaring revolutionary music from speakers on its roof.
Bright red Korean banners were everywhere with slogans extolling
the virtues of the regime. It was like something out of a movie, and
I wished I could have taken a video, but not even photographs are
allowed in railway stations.
Around twenty North Korean soldiers got on the train at Sinuiju
station and went through everyone's
luggage. They seemed particularly
interested in trying to find GPS devices -
which would be confiscated - but they
didn't check pockets or clothing. Once
done, the train moved on through the
North Korean countryside towards the
capital, Pyongyang.
Heralding our arrival was the iconic
monolith of the Ryugyong Hotel - a
surreal pyramid structure which looks
like a futuristic spaceship. Construction
on the 3,000+ room hotel - set to be the
biggest in the world - has been in the
works since 1987. Pulling into
Pyongyang station, I was met by my
guide. I was travelling with a friend so we had two guides. Both
were female, one around 30 years old and the other a trainee of 18.
It's illegal to travel freely in North Korea - you must always be
accompanied - and for the next ten days, except when I was in bed,
the guide never left my side. For the rest of the holiday, I knew I’d
have absolutely no contact with anyone else on the planet.
We exited the station, boarded a mini-bus and zipped through the
RYUGYONG HOTEL
YANGAKKDO HOTEL

KUMSUSAN PALACE
relatively traffic-free streets to our accommodation, a throwback to
the 1970's called the Yangakkdo Hotel, set on its own small island
in the middle of the River Taedong. Everything is organised for
you on a trip to North Korea; check in was quick, and we found
ourselves up on the 42 nd floor in our 1970's room, complete with
gramophone radio.
Pyongyang at night is an alien place. As it gets darker, there’s
barely a flicker of light coming from the
apartment blocks. We had binoculars but
could only make out very dim
illuminations, and after 11pm it seemed
like all the city's lights had been
switched off. We were essentially
imprisoned in the hotel, since our guides
are informed by reception staff should
we have attempted to go out at night. We
had chatted to our guides over dinner,
who had a full itinerary for our ten-day
visit. Every hour of every day was
accounted for in detail and they were
eager to show us as much as possible.
The following morning after breakfast,
we set off for the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun, Kim Il Sung's old
home, and a tribute to the country's two revered late leaders. When
visiting these places, you’re expected to treat the occasion with the
utmost reverence. We’d been urged to bring Euro coins, as we had
to buy flowers at nearby stalls and place them at specific places
near the monuments, turn round, walk slowly back, then face the
statue and bow deeply. You’re told in the pre-trip briefing that if
you aren't prepared to do this, don't even think of travelling to
“As the train shuffled
onto North Korean soil,
I peered out of the
window onto a world
that time forgot. It was
as if I had
time-travelled 50 years
into the past.”
North Korea. The people treat their leaders - living and dead - with
the greatest of respect. The museums and monuments to the
country's leaders are stunning, with meticulous attention to detail.
The marble pillars and enormous bronze statues are simply
breathtaking, particularly in a country with a reputation for being
impoverished. Two massive statues of the late statesmen dominate
the enormous hall. I took my cue from my guide who bowed
deeply, then exited right. I was then led to two enormous, dark
halls, where the embalmed bodies of the
deceased leaders were on full view,
contained within large glass cases. The
temperature in the room was close to
freezing. The bodies were suited, their
faces and hands the only visible skin.
The entire experience was surreal in the
extreme.
On that first day, I asked the older guide
about religion in the country, and she
said it doesn’t exist; instead North
Korean people adhere to the philosophy
of ‘self-determination’. I was fascinated
that an entire country had managed to
shun every religion, but as time went on,
it was clear that their leaders were their gods. This would
eventually manifest itself in a truly astonishing outburst from the
younger guide towards the end of the trip.
Our itinerary included a trip to the Ryugyong Health Complex.
When I went for a swim, the younger guide followed me.
Bizarrely, she sat on a chair at the end of my lane, watching me the
whole time. Afterwards, when we met up with the others, I saw
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 101

102

“It's illegal to travel
freely in North Korea
- you must always be
accompanied - and
for the next ten days,
except when I was in
bed, the guide never
left my side.”
that my travelling companion had a wild-eyed look on her face - she thought she was going to be electrocuted during her treatment after
having bare wires put on her face while a clunky old knob on a machine was manipulated.
The next day we traveled to Wonsan, a fishing village on the east coast. The journey took a few hours, with few cars passing by. People
walk everywhere - including bent over old ladies carrying sticks on their backs for what must have been hours to the next village. Once
in Wonsan, we checked into an ancient-looking hotel bedecked with green wallpaper which was quite a spectacle. Next it was cockles
and mussels on the pier, which the guides bought from a stall and cooked on small barbecues. These were quite delicious. On the way
back, I walked ahead on the beach with the 18-year-old guide. By this time we’d all become well acquainted, having heard all about
their families and such. I thought this might be a good time to ask how she remembered Kim Jong Il’s death when she was 15. I’ll never
forget what happened next. We’ve all seen the footage of North Koreans wailing hysterically in the streets whenever one of their leaders
dies. I can personally vouch they’re not faking it. My guide stopped, went ‘Oh!’ and put her hand to her chest, then proceeded to tell me
how her brother had come into the house and told her the ‘Dear Leader’ had died. Her voice crackling with emotion, she recounted how
she’d rushed outside with her neighbours, crying. By now she was sobbing hysterically. The shock written on my face, she sniffed “I
know people don’t understand it, but he was like a father to us all, [he] was like the nation’s father – we all grew up with him always
there, and suddenly he was gone!” It was a remarkable insight into the psyche of an ordinary North Korean, and how the cult of
personality runs deep when engrained since childhood.
The following day we were taken to the DMZ, the border between North and South Korea. The young guide was visibly terrified and we

104

MASS GAMES
had to calm her down. Each country’s soldiers face one another in a tense standoff, a singularly unnerving yet fascinating experience.
That night we attended the Mass Games - an eye-popping spectacle with 100,000 performers, including 20,000 school-kids creating a backdrop
of open books that form each pixel of a huge background picture, while acrobats gyrate across the stadium. Our guides, intensely proud, saw
we had our mouths gaping for the whole 90 minutes. The performance easily rivals anything in the West, and is a must-see for any visitor.
On our last evening, feeling foolhardy, we tried to sneak down to the fifth floor - the rumoured ‘’surveillance’’ floor in the Yakgakkdo
Hotel. Accessible only by stairs (button five was missing in the lift) we got out at floor six and were immediately accosted by an angry
security man. We pretended we had the wrong floor. Trembling, we then tried floor four, which was quiet, and tiptoed up the pitch-black
stairwell. When we got to the fifth it was blocked off - an adventure to be revisited another time…or not!
The following morning we were taken to the airport and bade an emotional farewell to our guides. We boarded the Air Koryo plane with
trepidation, given the airline’s notorious reputation, but ascended without incident, and the sense of relief was palpable as we watched the
patchwork quilt of North Korean fields disappear through the clouds.
North Korea isn’t for the faint of heart, but it’s a country you’d do well to explore before it changes. It has to be experienced in its
present state to be believed, and to cross its borders is to be part of an exclusive cadre of adventurers who aren’t afraid to peek behind the
iron curtain of a nation and its people in order to find the bonds of humanity we all share.

106

TA
TE
& S SIP
REVIEW
CHAPTER
ONE
DUBLIN
Food
Atmosphere
The Irish food scene has exploded in the past two
decades. The plethora of bland meat and two
veg dishes that littered restaurant menus in the
early 90s is almost gone, and establishments
all over the country are vying for the custom of the more
educated Irish palates. Since Dublin is the beating heart
of Ireland, the city naturally accounts for the majority of
its seasoned taste buds, and the capital is now home to
many of the country’s most celebrated eateries. In recent
years a number of accomplished chefs - many hailing
from other parts of the world - have set up shop in the
bustling capital to cater to maturing Irish tastes.
The River Liffey divides Dublin in two, with the
Southside home to the majority of the city’s must visit
venues. Chapter One is located on the Northside, in the
less desirable of the two halves depending on whom
you ask. When visiting Dublin it’s best to ignore any of
the homegrown snobbery that may sway you away from
venturing across the river. Arriving at Chapter One you
will notice it is located on one a rather fine Georgian
square, atop O’Connell Street, a main artery through
Dublin’s historical center. The restaurant is tucked
neatly underneath the Dublin Writers Museum, in a
townhouse which dates back to the 18 th -century, and

was once the residence of some of Dublin’s more upper
class citizens. The elegance of the building’s red-bricked
façade and wrought iron railings, contrasts beautifully
with the abundance of vegetation that welcomes guests
who descend into the oasis of calm from the footpath
above.
My dining companion and I were adjusting our attire
when the door was quietly opened and we were
welcomed by lively maître d’ and co-owner, Martin
Corbett, who gave us an unforgettably warm welcome,
his high energy infectious. His vested interest in making
guests feel supremely comfortable didn’t come across as
forced, as can often be the case with owner-managers.
The plush yet relatively minimalist interior was peppered
with bog timber wood sculptures by West Cork artist
Kieran Higgins, and art pieces that nodded to notable
Irish characters of the past. On the way to our table we
passed a glass work, that was adorned with the faces of
the men responsible for paving the way to Ireland’s
independence, displayed alongside portraits of
individuals who were part of Ireland’s rich literary history,
TAS
TE
others. Opting for a tasting menu is usually the best way
to sample the multitude of gastronomic delights served
in a restaurant of Chapter One’s culinary kudos, so we
selected the eight-course EUR 90 menu with paired wines
at EUR 50 per head.
No fuss was made when I requested an alternative to the
cured mackerel first course - which my companion
proclaimed was a meal opener she would never forget.
The truffled red cow parmesan ravioli I was served - with
braised oxtail minestrone, celeriac and basil - was the
delectable start of a three-hour food party in my mouth,
the integrity of the fresh produce used coming across in
ROSS LEWIS
GOOSE AND OATMEAL SAUSAGE WITH PICKLED CHERRIES,
SHAVED PEAR AND CELERIAC PURÉE
fitting given the restaurant’s location beneath a museum
dedicated to Irish writers.
From our table we had a clear view of the kitchen where
a mass of white coats was busy creating. Our charming
and chatty waiter was a local Dubliner, and his calm and
friendly demeanor added to the pleasantly relaxed
atmosphere in the dining room, which is not easily
achieved in a Michelin-starred establishment. Chapter
One was awarded a Michelin star in 2007 and has been
the recipient of countless other accolades since opening
in the nineties. Many of the restaurant’s specialist
growers and artisan producers have been supplying
executive chef Ross Lewis and his team since then. The
restaurant’s roll call of valued suppliers is proudly listed
on its website, so diners know in advance where each
ingredient of their meal is coming from.
Chapter One can best be described as a world-class Irish
restaurant with pan-international influences, and so
there are a number of different menus on offer, catering
to theatre-goers, vegetarians and groups, amongst
every plate which emerged from the kitchen.
The second course of Japanese pearl tapioca with St Tola
goat’s cheese, organic spinach, Irish shitake mushroom
and truffle, was skillfully paired with a 2014
Gewürztraminer from a fine French producer, furnishing
the salty cheese buried beneath the beaded tapioca top
with a delicately sweet edge. Whilst in my opinion a touch
too filling for a second course, the ensemble was cleverly
constructed and bursting with flavours.
Sommelier Ed Jolliffe, checked in with us at every course
to assure our taste buds were suitably hydrated as the
feast progressed. He was especially keen to show-off his
futuristic piece of wine technology, Coravin, which
allowed him to pour us a glass of his finest vintage
without removing the cork (www.coravin.com).
Course after course were served by polite and
well-versed staff, perfectly educated about the
composition of each dish, and I was pleased to see that
the time Lewis spent in Ferran Adrià’s iconic El Bulli
108 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

& SI P
restaurant, manifested itself in inspired touches which
adorned some of the dishes served. Whilst Lewis’
lovingly-designed tasting menu showcased contemporary
Irish cuisine at its very best - ingeniously blending the
simple with the exquisite to excellent effect - it has to be
said that the waiting staff also played a big part in the
first-rate dining experience at Chapter One. That most of
the staff hails from Ireland undoubtedly added to the
restaurant’s charm.
Special mention must be made of the fourth and sixth
courses: Mulloy’s smoked haddock with fermented
horseradish and cauliflower, lindi black pepper, pickled
red dulse and langoustines, which was served with a
superb 2009 French Macon. This dish’s velvety sauce was
moreish and scrumptious in the extreme, and it was
intensely difficult to refrain from mopping up (with my
fingers) the tiny amount remaining on my plate. The sixth
course of salt marsh duck was elegant, succulent and
beautifully seasoned, the addition of blood orange
adding a clever tang and taste sensation, married with a
delicious German Pinot Noir, to create both a flawless
conclusion to the main courses and the perfect prelude
to the Dingle Gin soup dessert, Irish coffees prepared à la
minute at the table and homemade petit fours.
Dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant often conjures up
images of a stuffy room populated by pompous clientele
picking at small dishes of over-prepared food in virtual
silence. Dining at Chapter One couldn’t be further from this
stereotype and is a gastronomic experience to be
savoured, lingered over, enjoyed and remembered. The
combined warmth and talents of Corbett and Lewis are the
stars of the show, alongside the incredible food and their
exceedingly friendly staff, resulting in contemporary Irish
fine dining at its approachable, tasty and sociable best.
PORK CHEEK GRATINATED WITH JOWL, POTATO DUMPLINGS AND
BRANDON BAY COCKLES WITH CHARGRILLED WILD GARLIC
CHAPTER ONE
Food:
Atmosphere:
Executive chef: Ross Lewis
Address: 18 - 19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1, Ireland
Telephone: + 353 1 873 2266
Email: info@chapteronerestaurant.com
Website: www.chapteronerestaurant.com
Cuisine: Contemporary Irish
Lunch: 12:30 - 14:00 Tuesday - Friday
Dinner: 17:30 - 22:30 Tuesday - Saturday
Lunch price: Three-course set lunch EUR 39.50.
Dinner price: Four-course dinner EUR 70.
Ideal meal: Dinner tasting menu EUR 90. Paired wines EUR 50.
Reservations: Essential
Wheelchair access: No
Children: Welcome. No kids menu
Credit cards: All major
Parking: On street.
Reviewed by Gordon Hickey on 20 April 2016 for dinner.
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

110

TA
TE
& S SIP
REVIEW
MATADOR
ROOM
MIAMI
Food
Atmosphere
MMiami is buzzing these days, confident and
proud of its present and future. More than
ever, the city is a center for the arts, culture,
fashion and of course, fun. There is a building
boom underway. Properties from the 1940s and 1950s
continue to be renovated. New luxury residential and
hotel towers are popping up all over the place. Once a
relatively sleepy albeit sultry city with a strong Latin
influence, Miami is increasingly a truly international city.
Those who visit Miami and choosing to live there, are
more sophisticated and well travelled than ever before.
Against this backdrop, the restaurant scene is changing.
No longer is it sufficient to rely exclusively on design and
beautiful people to ensure success or longevity. While
Miami has yet to host an establishment that has earned a
Michelin star, the food stakes are rising quickly. Miami is
becoming a real foodie town, driven by new openings,
culinary innovation and a more discerning clientele.
Increased competition means that restaurants now have
to deliver consistently on all fronts - food, service and
overall experience. While mainland Miami
neighbourhoods like the Financial District, Brickell,
Wynwood and the Design District offer new and exciting
epicurean experiences, much of the fine dining remains
on Miami Beach where new hotels - trend setters in
luxury and design - are accompanied by globally
recognised restaurant openings.
Matador Room, which opened in December 2014 at the
breathtaking Miami Beach Edition in Mid Beach, is an
invaluable new addition to Miami’s restaurant scene and
is on the forefront of all the culinary changes taking place
in the city today. The brainchild of savvy world famous
French chef, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Matador Room
offers a distinctive interpretation on Latin cuisine,
incorporating Spanish, Caribbean and South American
flavors. Chef de cuisine, Jeremy Ford, was recently
crowned winner of season 13 of popular American TV
show, Top Chef, further validating Matador Room’s
gastronomic credentials and ensuring that it remains one
of Miami’s hottest restaurant tickets.
Along with nearby Faena and The One hotels, the Edition
is one of the new ultra high-end properties that have

opened up in Mid Beach in the past few years,
transforming Miami into a more global and
sophisticated destination. Actually, “new” is not
completely accurate since they are, in fact, inspired
restorations from Miami’s mid century golden age,
evoking glamour, luxury and decadence. Situated on 29 th
and Collins, the Edition has its own private circular
driveway, which takes you off Collins Avenue towards
the ocean, adding a sense of exclusivity upon arrival.
The Edition hotel brand is a relatively new concept,
formulated by famous hotelier and design guru, Ian
Schrager, in conjunction with Marriott. Its focus is on
modern luxury, distinctive design and creating dynamic
entertainment hubs in which signature restaurants play
a leading role. In many ways this is a reimagined return
to Miami Beach’s golden hey day.
Matador Room was an integral part of the former,
once-famous Seville Hotel, which now forms part of the
Edition. Vongerichten’s eatery takes its name from the
restaurant’s previous incarnation. Even though it’s a new
restaurant, a distinct sense of a rich and colourful past is
ever present. The vibe is glamorous supper club; formal
TAS
TE
suspended over a sunken oval dining room of
banquettes and freestanding tables. Additional seating is
positioned around the perimeter of the room. White suit
clad male and female servers add a glamorous touch.
The overall effect is that of a theatre, with the stage and
audience enjoying the performance as one. Flattering
lighting, excellent acoustics and a well-conceived layout,
skillfully achieve the right balance between stimulation
and calm. The generous use of natural materials and
walls paneled in fabric add warmth to the space’s ample
proportions. It’s not easy to create a private dining
experience while being part of a mesmerizing circus.
Matador Room nails it.
JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN
SWEET PEA GUACAMOLE
enough to lend a sense of occasion, yet sufficiently
relaxed to feel decadent and fun. To get to the main
dining room, you must pass through Matador Bar, where
an imposingly beautiful black walnut and stone bar is the
main focal point of the room. Whilst floor-to-ceiling
windows look directly out on to the ocean, it’s the
bullfighting memorabilia and riveting life-like
photographs of actual matadors in motion that set the
bar’s tone and personality. Lively and large enough to
feel spacious, Matador Bar is a great place to sample
signature cocktails with names like Bittersweet
Symphony (Grey Goose, blackberry, grapefruit, lemon
and sage) and Red Dawn (Belvedere, dry Curaçao, yuzu,
raspberry and ginger).
At the end of Matador Bar, sits the restaurant reception,
manned by professional, warm and pleasing-on-the-eye
staff. Although connected to the bar, Matador Room’s
main dining area is not at once obviously visible, creating
a sense of anticipation and drama. The centerpiece of
the grand space is a huge, original octopus-like white
crystal chandelier, its tentacles emanating outwards,
The food part of the evening began under the guidance
of executive sous chef, Joe Mizzoni and server, Estefania -
with sweet pea guacamole infused with baby cilantro and
home made chips. Who knew that sweet pea could make
guacamole taste so good? This was followed by red
snapper crudo with green chili dressing and crunchy rice.
Mixing and matching flavours and textures is a hallmark
of the cooking at Matador Room, the result of which can
best be described as an intensely pleasurable palette
awakening. Mozzarella with ricotta piped inside, served
with pumpernickel croutons, fresh local mini
strawberries and Modena vinegar was excellent and like
nothing I had ever tasted before. Dish after dish
proceeded like this. Next came fiddlehead fern (yes, fern)
with cayenne pepper sourdough croutons and lemon
and paprika infused aioli. Fiddlehead ferns are the furled
fronds of a young fern. There is only a window of a few
weeks that the fronds are edible, allowing for this dish to
be served only at certain times of the year. The
innovative menu excites and inspires, enhanced by
seasonal specials and unique flavours. Small and larger
dishes prepared in four different kitchens are brought to
112 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

& SI P
the table when ready, tapas style, and meant to be
shared. Braised octopus, marinated overnight in an herb
broth was served lightly grilled. Scallops arrived
alongside sautéed cauliflower, kombu and ramp
(pre-spring onion). This being a Jean-Georges restaurant,
the scallops had a backstory - hand picked by an
independent fisherwoman in Maine and flown directly to
Miami. Matador Room’s servers are incredibly well
informed, not only about the optimal way to order but
also the nuances of each dish. The result is that you end
up tasting a lot of different foods, with the staggering of
their delivery building excitement and anticipation about
what is being served next and how it has been prepared.
Other dishes came and went with equal innovation and
taste as the scallops. Pork confit arrived accompanied by
smoked bacon marmalade and English peas. The
suckling pig had been cooked for fifteen hours. The meat
was then taken off the bone, pressed with the skin and
made into crackling. Extraordinary. A medley of lemon
curd, lemon cake and blackberry crumble were served
for dessert. Bravo.
If truth be told, I am not usually a fan of tapas style
dining, particularly for dinner. However the experience
at Matador Room completely changed my perspective.
This is a menu where you want to try as much as
possible. Each dish and each bite was an experience
unto its own. Not only did the food taste fabulous, but I
also felt that I had participated in a culinary experience
that was bold, creative and exciting. Unique flavour
pairings, fresh seasonal and unusual produce, and clean
presentations combined to deliver something one
would be hard pressed to find elsewhere. A visit to
Matador Room feels like a real evening out, one to be
savoured and enjoyed, where the star is most certainly
the food.
MATADOR ROOM TERRACE BAR
FLORIDA BLACK GROUPER TACOS
MATADOR ROOM
Food:
Atmosphere:
Chef de Cuisine: Jeremy Ford
Address: 2901 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, FL 33140, USA
Telephone: +1 786 257 4600
Email: reservations.restaurant@editionhotels.com
Website: www.matadorroom.com
Cuisine: Latin Spanish
Lunch: Monday - Friday 10:00- 15:00.
Saturday & Sunday 10:00 - 16:00.
Dinner: Sunday - Thursday 18:00 - 21:00.
Friday & Saturday 18:00 - 00:00.
Reservations: Essential
Wheelchair access: Yes
Credit cards: All major
Lunch price: Carafe of Red Apple Sangria (USD 4), Sweet Pea Guacamole
with Crunchy Tortilla (USD 13), Crispy Mahi Sandwhich,
Chipotle Mayonniase and Arugula (USD 19), Strawberry
Sundae, Kaffir Lime Meringue (USD 9).
Dinner price: Spicy Tuna Tartare, Black Olive, Cucumber and Avocado
(USD 13), Charred Octopus with Crispy Potatoes Paprika
Emulsion (USD 21), Suckling Pig, English Pea, Smoked Bacon
Marmalade (USD 31), Warm Vanilla Fritters, Mexican
Chocolate (USD 9).
Ideal meal: Dinner above
Children: High chairs available. No kids menu
Parking: Valet chargeable. Some street parking available
Reviewed by Alex Benasuli on 27 March 2016 for dinner
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

TA
TE
& S SIP
INTERVIEW
JEREMY
FORD
CHEF DE CUISINE
MATADOR ROOM
ALEX BENASULI INTERVIEWED
FAST-RISING MIAMI-BASED CHEF
DE CUISINE OF CELEBRATED
MATADOR ROOM, JEREMY FORD,
FRESH FROM HIS CROWNING AS
THE WINNER OF AMERICAN
TELEVISION SERIES, TOP CHEF.
114

WHERE DOES YOUR LOVE FOR COOKING COME
FROM?
One of my fondest memories, which always
reminds me about my love for cooking, is the day
my family and I met my adopted mother’s mom. I
will never forget walking into her house; it had the
most amazing fragrance. I remember seeing roast
beef stuffed with garlic cloves. I was absolutely
mesmerized because I had never had a meal like
that before.
HOW OLD WERE YOU WHEN YOU REALISED THAT
BECOMING A CHEF WAS YOUR PATH?
I was about 14 years old, and remember flipping
through TV channels and landed on chef Emeril
Lagasse’s cooking show, Emeril Live. I was so
fascinated by his cooking that I immediately began
practicing his recipes at home.
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB IN THE COOKING WORLD
AND WHAT DID IT TEACH YOU?
My first job in the kitchen was prep, mostly peeling
pounds and pounds of shrimp. This taught me how
to appreciate every other assignment I was given.
WHO HAVE BEEN YOUR MENTORS AND IN WHAT WAY
DID THEY HELP YOUR CAREER?
French chef, Christophe Emé, was one of my first
career-changing influences. He taught me discipline
and how to respect the craft, when I was just 17.
Then came a very different kind of teacher, Dean
James Max, who took the more relaxed approach.
Max is an amazing artist - especially when it comes
to cooking with fish - and really cares about local
farms and sustainability.
WHAT MISTAKES HAVE YOU MADE ALONG THE WAY
THAT TURNED OUT TO BE GROWING
OPPORTUNITIES?
Moving away from my daughter when she was only
two years old was - at the time - a mistake. But I
ended up meeting Dean James Max, who was a big
part of my career, and fundamentally improved
and changed me as a chef.
IF YOU COULD INVITE ANYONE TO A DINNER PARTY
WHO WOULD IT BE?
I would love to cook for my mother. She lives far
away and we are always making excuses about our
busy schedules, etc.
HOW DID YOU MEET JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN
AND WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNT FROM HIM?
I did a tasting for Jean-Georges to secure my
current position. He picked me out of several
applicants. He has taught me how to use chilies
and acid in the most effective way. Plus the biggest,
most important rule, that if you don’t crave the dish
after three bites, it’s simply not a good dish.

HOW DID THE CONCEPT FOR MATADOR ROOM
COME ABOUT, AND WHAT WAS YOUR
INVOLVEMENT IN THE PROCESS?
Matador Room is very similar to Jean-Georges’
Latin American fusion concept restaurant, ABC
Cocina in New York. My involvement in Matador
Room is to always keep our seasonal insert
menu strong with new items.
“My plan today and for
the rest of my career is
to keep learning.”
PLEASE SHARE WITH US THE CREATIVE PROCESS
BEHIND A NEW DISH AND HOW IT MAKES IT ONTO
THE MENU AT MATADOR ROOM?
Most of my inspiration comes from the
ingredients that are coming into season. I get
really excited when a new season’s approaching,
because it’s a new start with new inspirations!
WHAT ADJUSTMENTS HAVE BEEN MADE TO THE
FOOD, PRESENTATION AND SERVICE AT MATADOR
ROOM SINCE OPENING IN DECEMBER 2014?
Most of the dishes were pre-tested and ready to
roll from the start, but we have changed some
cuts of meat to cater better to our local market.
HOW OFTEN DOES THE MENU CHANGE AT
MATADOR ROOM AND WHAT PROMPTS A
REFRESH?
Most of the menu contains staples and there
are certain dishes that customers expect to see
when they come. However the remainder of the
menu is based on seasonality and we have an
insert that changes almost daily.
PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR EXPERIENCE OF
PARTICIPATING IN SEASON 13 OF BRAVO’S TOP
CHEF TELEVISION SERIES IN AMERICA.
Meeting all of the judges and getting to cook
for some of my idols was absolutely amazing.
The feeling of winning challenges was definitely
one of the best feelings I’ve experienced as a
chef.
APART FROM WINNING THE OVERALL
COMPETITION, WHAT WERE THE BEST PART AND
THE MOST CHALLENGING?
The best and most challenging moment on Top
Chef, was cooking at celebrated French chef
Hubert Keller’s restaurant, Fleur de Lys in San
Francisco. Mine being the last meal cooked
really added to the pressure. Hearing Hubert
tell me that he would put the dish I prepared on
his menu meant the world to me.
NOW THAT YOU HAVE WON TOP CHEF, WHAT ARE
YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE?
My plan today and for the rest of my career is to
keep learning. The only reason I had a chance of
winning Top Chef, was because, as a chef, I am
always pushing myself to be better.
116

IF YOU COULD OPEN A RESTAURANT ANYWHERE IN
THE WORLD WHERE WOULD IT BE AND WHAT CUISINE
WOULD BE SERVED?
Besides Miami, it would have to be California,
because the produce and fish are really like
nowhere else. So many exciting things to do outside
of work also makes California a fun location.
WE SEEM TO BE LIVING INCREASINGLY IN AN AGE OF
CELEBRITY CHEFS. DO YOU THINK THIS IS A GOOD
THING FOR AMERICA’S RESTAURANT SCENE?
I think chefs can definitely be rock stars now. As long
as chefs don’t lose sight of why they became chefs in
the first place, then yes, I think it’s a good thing.
WHEN IT'S YOU AND YOUR NINE-YEAR OLD
DAUGHTER AT HOME, WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO EAT?
We absolutely love to eat pasta. We even make our
own from time to time, adding-in whatever
different types of vegetables we find in the fridge.
HOW HAS THE RESTAURANT SCENE IN MIAMI
CHANGED OVER THE YEARS AND IN WHAT DIRECTION
IS IT HEADED?
In the last 8 years since I've been in South Florida, I’ve
watched the city’s culinary scene emerge and grow
incredibly. The innovation and talent are amazing. I
see Miami continuing to grow chef-driven
neighbourhood restaurants, serving approachable
dishes which entice guests back several times a week.
DO YOU THINK MIAMI PULLS ABOVE OR BELOW ITS
WEIGHT IN THE AMERICAN RESTAURANT STAKES?
Miami offers a remarkable variety of cuisine and
the city is most certainly pulling its weight.
WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT LIVING IN MIAMI?
I absolutely love the early spring, and taking out my
boat on the bright blue waters.
WHAT DO YOU DO IN YOUR FREE TIME?
I eat and hang out with my daughter as much as
possible. We really enjoy eating out together.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE WATERING HOLE IN MIAMI?
Sweet Liberty, co-owned by my buddy Josh Wagner,
which serves incredible cocktails
(www.mysweetliberty.com).
WHERE DO YOU HOLIDAY AND WHAT’S YOUR
FAVOURITE DESTINATION TO KICK-BACK AND RELAX?
Being a chef makes being present for holidays hard
since we are usually in the kitchen, but last year my
brother and I started a tradition to spend Christmas
together, in the mountains, with the whole family.
PLEASE SHARE AN OFF THE BEATEN TRACK TIP IN
MIAMI.
Taking an Everglades boat tour is a must.

TA
TE
& S SIP
THE FOOD
ROYAL RED
SHRIMP IN
“AGUA DIABLO”
MARCONA
ALMONDS,
BANANA AND
CILANTRO
THIS EYECATCHING, LIGHT AND
VIBRANT DISH, COURTESY OF
AWARD-WINNING CHEF DE CUISINE
OF MIAMI’S MATADOR ROOM, JEREMY
FORD, WORKS EQUALLY WELL
SHARING AT AN AL FRESCO
GATHERING, AS IT DOES ON THE
TABLE OF A SMART DINNER PARTY.
118

INGREDIENTS: SHIMP
400g Carolina white shrimp, peeled, cut in ½
from head to tail, deveined
4g Salt
15g Mint sprigs, bottom 1/3 stem removed,
bruised last minute
2000g Boiling water
METHOD: SHRIMP
Season the shrimp with the salt, bruise the
mint and mix together well. Allow to stand for
15 minutes. Transfer to a bain marie and pour
the boiling water over everything, then stir,
cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and allow to
poach for 60 seconds. Then drain through a
strainer, spread into the bottom of a pan and
cool in the freezer for 15 minutes. Divide into
70g portions, removing the mint, as necessary.
INGREDIENTS: AGUA DIABLO
300g Fresh lime juice
60g Clementine juice
5g Clementine peel, all pith removed
40g Red finger chilies, ½ seeds removed
10g Red habañeros (chili peppers), de-seeded
and ribbed
2g Garlic, germ (sprout) removed
9g Salt
METHOD: AGUA DIABLO
Combine all in blender and puree until smooth: pass
through a chinois (fine mesh sieve) with passing
sediment. Make extremely cold before using.
TO SERVE PER DISH:
70g Shrimp
1½oz Agua Diablo
4 each roasted/salted marcona almonds cut end
to end
6 each ¾inch ripe banana obliques
Flurry micro/baby cilantro
Drizzle evo/sprinkle fleur
Arrange the shrimp in the bottom of a freezing bowl.
Pour over the Agua Diablo, scatter with the banana,
almonds and cilantro, then drizzle with evo and
sprinkle lightly with fleur. Serve immediately.

BORN IN SEOUL, EDUCATED IN VIENNA AND NOW LIVING IN
THE MIDDLE EAST, KALIA MICHAELIDES CAUGHT-UP WITH
AWARD-WINNING CONCERT PIANIST AND STEINWAY
ARTIST SONJA PARK IN BETWEEN HER BUSY
INTERNATIONAL PERFORMANCE SCHEDULE
SONJA
PARK
120

music&
NIGHT
LIFE

122

You are the first Steinway artist in the Gulf region,
joining the ranks of more than 1600 of the world’s
greatest pianists. What does this accolade mean to
you?
It is a great privilege and honour to join the ranks of such
acclaimed artists, and most importantly to be an
ambassador of Steinway in a part of the world where
classical music is not as established as it is in Europe and
many Asian countries. The fact that a brand as
prestigious as Steinway has endorsed me and entrusted
me with this role, has only made me more zealous and
passionate to promote music in the Gulf and make it part
of more peoples’ lives.
What responsibilities come with being a Steinway
artist?
You have to meet certain criteria to become a Steinway
artist, not least owning a Steinway piano, agreeing to play
on Steinway pianos exclusively and endorsing the world’s
finest pianos voluntarily. Plus I must keep my standard of
playing as high as possible.
You come from a family
immersed in classical music.
Would you say that your
destiny was more or less a
foregone conclusion?
As a child I didn’t want to
become a pianist at all. I really
didn’t like practising because
playing the piano came relatively
easily to me. As a teenager I
craved something more active
and challenging, and had always been drawn to
journalism. But at the age of 21 I fell in love with music
and the piano and soon became the concert pianist I
believe I was destined to be.
Would you like your daughter to follow your musical
career path?
A dedicated musical career can be a very tough path to
follow. However, if this is my daughter’s wish I will of
course support her all the way. Whilst she is only 8 years
old at the moment, she is already very talented and
skilful on the piano.
Music is much more than
just a sound, a beat or
lyrics in our ears. It’s not
about who’s playing or
singing - music is about the
message being delivered.
because consecutive performances can be physically
demanding, strenuous and exhausting.
How do you juggle motherhood, teaching and
performing?
At the moment, as a mother with a young child, sleep
deprivation is my biggest problem, but I know this is a
temporary situation so I keep going. Besides having the
support of my devoted husband, the love I have for my
work is the biggest motivation I need to overcome any
challenges I may encounter as a mother, teacher or
soloist.
Since you were educated in music pedagogy, did you
want to be a music teacher?
When I was younger it felt natural to follow my mother’s
footsteps and honour her wish, since she was a music
school director for 35 years. Nowadays I use my teacher
skills to educate a small piano class.
What triggered your career as a piano soloist?
While I was studying in Vienna, I
experienced a breath-taking
concert. Those incredible,
magical musical moments were a
turning point in my life, which
touched me deeply and
transported me to another
world. That experience made it
clear to me that playing the
piano professionally was my
destiny.
Who was your musical
mentor?
Alexander Jenner, my teacher in Vienna and professor at
the Wiener Musikhochschule, where he conducted
classes and gave courses. Professor Jenner taught in
Austria, Japan, Germany, USA, Taiwan, Spain and Latin
America, and was honoured with many national and
international orders of merit. I was incredibly lucky to
have him as my mentor.
Aside from classical, what other music genres do
you enjoy?
For me good music is universally appealing irrespective of
the genre. I enjoy jazz, funk and R&B, amongst others.
Are there any sacrifices an artist of your standard
has to make in order to be successful and
committed?
Like any professional career, in order to be successful
you must be committed, disciplined and work hard. For
me work comes first and takes priority over some of life’s
pleasures, like spending time with friends. Plus I always
have to listen to my body and take care of my health,
Who is your favourite classical musician and why?
Martha Argerich, the legendary Argentinian pianist. She
has everything that a performing artist could wish for.
Her music is beautiful yet passionate and powerful. She
has an electrifying stage presence. I love watching her,
listening to her and absorbing her perform. I identify
with her music and her musicality is in tune with my
being.

You are very involved in Moving Young Artists. Part
of the foundation’s ethos is to embrace the positive
qualities of music, one of which is to heal. How do
you feel music can heal?
Music can have a huge impact on people. Music
stimulates our senses, relaxes our nerves and enhances
our emotions. Music can have a staggering effect. Our
pulses can change to chime with music. Our physical
state can change in response to music. Music has an
incredibly ability to both energise us and calm us. Music
is much more than just a sound, a beat or lyrics in our
ears. It’s not about who’s playing or singing - music is
about the message being delivered. It’s about the way it
makes a person feel and the impact a song or a piece has
on someone’s life. It can make us feel happier when we
are happy, it can make us feel down when we are sad.
Music can also inspire us to deal with our innermost
emotions.
What do you try to instil into the music students you
teach?
Everything from basic groundwork to releasing their
emotions when playing. To focus, to concentrate while
practising and to do their best when working on
something. And then, when performing, to try to enjoy
and embrace the moment. I also try to teach them that, at
some point, they won’t need me.
Which holiday destinations hold the fondest
memories for you?
It’s a long list. Hawaii, Seychelles, South Africa, Bali, Italy,
France, Prague. I could go on forever. I am very fortunate
to have travelled extensively and have enjoyed
memorable holidays in a number of beautiful places.
When staying in a hotel, is it a prerequisite for you
to have a room with a piano?
Only when I am on a concert trip is a piano in my hotel
room useful, but usually I practice in the concert venue.
You have toured the world performing. Of all the
countries you have visited, is there one which you
feel especially connected to?
Austria and my second hometown, Vienna, where I spent
124

I would love to work with
Martha Argerich, my favourite
musician, who is widely
regarded as one of the greatest
pianists of the second half of
the 20 th century.
about nine years of my life. Italy comes a close second. I
love Italy and the country’s beauty, nature, food, wine, the
passionate Italian people and cutting-edge fashion. Just
being in Italy makes me feel relaxed and positive about
life.
Please reveal to our readers a secret in-flight tip of
yours.
Sadly I don’t have any to share because I can never sleep
on planes, irrespective of the cabin class I’m in. I tend to
watch movies, read books and flip through magazines
during flights.
What’s your favourite hotel in the world and why?
I’m a fan of Four Seasons hotels for their quality and
consistently high standards. But when we go on holiday
as a family we usually stay in boutique hotels, since we
prefer a bit more intimacy and personality.
What has been your career highlight to date and
what impact did it have on you?
I must mention two moving experiences. One was when I
worked on a concert with the late Nikolaus Harnoncourt,
the brilliant conductor, at his home in St. Georgen,
Austria. His musical insights and incredible depth of
knowledge touched me intensely. The second was when I
performed in Pakistan at a charity gala to raise awareness
for avoidable blindness. I played the piano blindfolded,
which was both an incredible experience and extremely
humbling.
Name a musical personality you would love to work
with.
Martha Argerich, my favourite musician, who is widely
regarded as one of the greatest pianists of the second
half of the 20th century.
What's top of your travel hot list - somewhere you
haven't visited yet?
Sorry, two places, Peru and Iceland.
What is your ultimate goal as a pianist?
To perform on every continent, touch as many musical
hearts as I can and make a positive impact on as many
people’s lives as possible.
www.sonjapark.org

GLOBETROTTER
AFTER SPENDING ALMOST A DECADE AS AN INVESTMENT BANKER, ROBERT TATEOSSIAN SET ABOUT
TRANSFORMING MEN’S ACCESSORIES FROM AN OUTDATED CONVENTION TO MODERN LUXURY ITEMS. THE
KING OF CUFFLINKS SPOKE WITH KALIA MICHAELIDES ABOUT MAKING THE LEAP TO THE WORLD OF HIGH-END
RETAIL, CREATING AN INTERNATIONAL LUXURY FASHION BRAND AND WHAT INSPIRES NEW COLLECTIONS.
126

You’ve said that City financier to jewellery
designer was a natural progression. What
triggered this career change?
I identified an opportunity in the market in
the field of cufflinks, and wanted to be an
entrepreneur, travel the world and work in
fashion.
You have lived around the world on various
continents, so why do you call London
home?
London is where I have spent more than 30
years of my life, is where my business is
based and where my main residence is
located. However there is a possibility this
might change in the future. I also feel
comfortable living in New York, Milan and
Cape Town.
How do you feel about the “King of
Cufflinks” moniker?
Of course I am humbled to have been given
this title, and strive to always come up with
collections that are stronger season after
season.
From where do you draw inspiration for
your product lines?
Many things inspire me. I spend more than
70% of my time travelling around the world
and gain inspiration from art, furniture and
architecture.
How do you source gems and rare
materials, such as dinosaur bone and
meteorite?
I go to specialist trade shows around the
world, and deal with the person at the origin
rather than middlemen. Dealers also contact
me directly whenever they come across
something that might be of interest.
Is it easy to combine fashion-forward,
classic and timeless in a piece of
jewellery?
Absolutely, I believe that jewellery should be
timeless, especially when executed in a
precious material. Classic pieces should
always incorporate an element of modernity,
reflecting the current trend.
Which is your favourite Tateossian piece
and why?
It is very difficult to pick one piece, since it
128

depends on the occasion it is being worn. However,
one piece I rarely leave the house without is a raw
sapphire pendant on leather.
If you could collaborate with any living designer
who would it be?
Antony Gormley. I love his art and I’m sure I could
have fun designing a collection with him.
Please tell us about Tateossian’s partnership with
the Solace Foundation?
The Solace Foundation came about when I was
approached by a friend in Dubai, who wanted to
raise funds to buy winter jackets for Syrian refugees
in Lebanese camps. It was an easy decision for me to
make, so we organised two events in our London
stores, plus an online appeal to our database of
customers and donated 30% of the sale proceeds to
the charity.
Are you heavily involved in the design of Tateossian
stores?
I am involved in every design aspect of my brand,
from store design to packaging, advertising and, of
course, the product.
People now tend to do much of their shopping on
the net. Do you feel that this has had a negative
impact on old-fashioned high-street shopping?
Online shopping is a phenomenon that is increasing
year on year and I’m sure will continue to do so. We
have witnessed this in the growth of our website
sales versus retail sales. However, customers still
want the experience of walking into a store and being
romanced into buying a piece of jewellery or an item
of clothing. Nothing beats the ceremony of looking at
different pieces before selecting the most perfect one,
being greeted by a sales person and recognised by
name. The human aspects of shopping cannot be
replaced by a website.
What is the process when designing and producing
a new piece of women’s jewellery? Do you work
with a team?
Twice a year I sit down with the design team and our
creative director to develop the new collection. It is a
group of four designers. We examine what has sold
well previously, and work on new themes based on
the mood of the moment and ideas collected during
the course of the season. The process usually takes six
months, but some of our more complicated designs
can take up to a year and a half from start to finish.
How important was it for you to open a Tateossian
store in Yerevan?
I am Armenian so of course it was a matter of
personal pride.
Armenia is a beautiful and historic country. What
places must overseas tourists visit?
Yerevan the capital is rich in museums and culture,
with many beautiful squares to stroll around and
plenty of delicious foods to choose from. And the
pomegranate juice is a must!
Do you combine business and pleasure when
travelling the world?
It would be a shame to just work when travelling the
globe, and not immerse oneself in the local culture -
visit restaurants, museums, walk around the town -
so I always try to combine both and meet-up with
friends in different countries.
Any tips for dealing with jet-lag?!
Try to adapt to the local timetable immediately upon
arrival, so do not land in the morning and go to sleep.
Try to stay up and awake as long as possible. Going
to the gym also helps your body clock to adjust more
quickly. Of course not drinking alcohol on flights can
also help, but I do like to have a nice glass of wine on
board.
If you could only take six items onto a plane, what
would they be?
Mobile ‘phone loaded with music, iPad, noise
cancellation headset, sleeping pill, warm sweater and
a good book.
What’s your favourite vacation destination and
why?
Definitely Cape Town for the superb weather,
affordability, delicious food and wines, great places to
visit, super beaches and warm and friendly people.
What are your criteria when choosing a hotel?
I generally stay away from very large hotels unless I
can receive personal service. I like rooms with a view
and favour hotels that retain their staff for some time
so they can recognise familiar faces.
You have successfully launched watch collections.
What made you decide to expand into the highly
competitive horology arena?
We consider ourselves to be a men’s accessory brand,
so watches were a natural extension to our line of
cufflinks and bracelets. Watches are in fact one of the
few pieces of jewellery that most men will wear aside
from a wedding ring.

Whilst many men now accesorise some still think
that just a watch will suffice. Your thoughts please.
Watches tend to be a man’s favourite accessory but
there are a lot more. Cufflinks are the best way to
complete your look whether going for an interview
or a fun night out, and a stack of bracelets on your
wrist will make you feel young and reflect your
character and personality.
Do you seek the endorsement of celebrities, and if
so, what qualities does a Tateossian brand
ambassador typically possess?
Gaining a celebrity endorsement usually requires a
hefty investment and the return can often be mixed.
If we had sufficient budget for this it would need to
someone who could pull-off wearing an amazing
stud set as well as a stack of bracelets. Daniel Craig
perhaps.
To what do you attribute the global success of the
Tateossian brand?
We have worked very hard over the past 26 years to
deliver a unique collection of jewellery season after
season, with impeccable attention to craftsmanship,
always trying to push the boundaries a little with
innovation. And I am surrounded by a very dedicated
and loyal team who help me deliver a superior product
and service to our clients. Plus a bit of luck of course!
What’s next for Robert Tateossian?
We are planning to launch a leather goods line of
back-packs, belts and small leather items.
www.tateossian.com
June/July 2016 The Cultured Traveller 131

EDITORS’ CHOICE
The hot long days and balmy breezy nights are almost upon-us. By the
time our next issue is out, we will be in the midst of the months of the year
that most of us regard as serious vacation downtime. There’s nothing that
gets you more into the spirit of travelling than shopping for a holiday
wardrobe, and so for this - the first of two summer issues of TCT - Kalia
Michaelides and I have each hand-picked half a dozen essentials, which
we feel any fashion conscious cultured traveller shouldn’t leave home for
sunnier climes without.
Nicholas Chrisostomou, Editor-in-Chief
For Him
MARKUS
LUPFER T-SHIRT
German-born London-based Markus Lupfer's
sequin-embellished and hand-embroidered
knitwear and t-shirts have developed a strong
celebrity following among Roisin Murphy,
Daisy Lowe and recently Madonna. This
camel skeleton print tee, in 100% cotton jersey,
is cheeky, fun and versatile. Wear is casually
with shorts or dress it up for a beach party.
GBP 70 WWW.MARKUSLUPFER.COM
RIVIERAS
SHOES
These navy slip-on
shoes by Rivieras -
simple, lightweight and classically stylish, and
made from breathable cotton mesh - are a great
choice for a resort or beach-based vacation, and
their relatively low cost means you don't need
to worry about trashing them!
EUR 55 WWW.MRPORTER.COM
132 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016
DAN WARD BEACH BAG
American-born designer, Dan Ward, spent
his youth in Japan and has been living and
working throughout Europe for the past 25
years. This graphic monochrome canvas
beach tote - lined in black - is handy for
organising your daily essentials when
planning a day in the sun, and features a
deep interior with three internal slip
pockets to separate your knick-knacks.
EUR 95 WWW.DANWARDWEAR.COM
ORLEBAR BROWN SWIM SHORTS
Launched almost a decade ago by photographer Adam Brown, Orlebar
Brown focuses on functional, comfortable and sophisticated yet casual
swimwear. Eye-catching by the pool, smart enough to wear at lunch,
and funky enough to sport at a
party, the versatility of these shorts
justifies their cost. These tailored,
mid-length swimmers - covered
with a 360° 1978 image of Hôtel du
Cap-Eden-Roc - are the perfect
combo of vintage and fashion.
GBP 225
WWW.ORLEBARBROWN.CO.UK
THEORY LINEN SHIRT
No summer wardrobe is complete without
a linen shirt. Theory produce
contemporary clothing for today's modern
men, and this Zack PS shirt is no exception
- classically styled, beautifully finished and
sparsely detailed to keep the focus on the
neat shape. Wear poolside with shorts or
team with jeans for an evening at a beach
club. Buy one in white and one in blue to
maximise your holiday wardrobe.
Blue USD 225 WWW.THEORY.COM
White EUR 245 WWW.MRPORTER.COM
SUPERDRY CARGO SHORTS
The only pair of cargo shorts a guy will ever need. I
haven't stopped wearing mine since buying them,
and they only look better with age and washing.
Featuring seven pockets, button-fly fastening and
reinforced
construction, these
classic military style
CoreLite shorts by
Superdry, will
literally go anywhere
and withstand pretty
much anything.
Battalion Green is the
only way to go.
EUR 69.95
WWW.SUPERDRY.COM

CHLOÉ CROCHETED MINI DRESS
Crocheted from airy cotton, this beautiful milk-coloured
piece, designed by Clare Waight Keller for the inimitable
French fashion house, is cut in an off-the-shoulder silhouette
with voluminous sleeves, and the nipped-in waist will
define your figure. Accessorise with pared-back jewels and
top with an oversized fedora for a boho-chic look.
GBP 1,445 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM
For Her
VALENTINO LIZARD SANDALS
It’s not easy to combine luxury, style and
fashion into comfortable summery footwear,
but Italian fashion house, Valentino, has done it
again with these chic and sleek Love Latch
sandals. Made in Italy from blush and black
Argentinian lizard and embellished
with tiny silver eyelets, they’re
set on slim yet durable soles
and secured with slender,
harness-inspired straps
that flatter
sun-kissed beach
feet.
GBP 1,015
WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM
ITZY BEACHY SWIMSUIT
This London-based luxury swimwear brand,
produces well-designed exclusive pieces, which
nicely bridge the gap between wearability, comfort
and fashion. Not too skimpy yet just revealing
enough, this Ibiza Bandeau one-piece swimsuit, in
an eye-catching Greek print, adds some
Mediterranean chic to your holiday wardrobe, and
the clever design is flatteringly slimming.
GBP 175 WWW.ITZYBEACHY.COM
VANESSA BRUNO BEACH BAG
Vanessa Bruno is a fashion designer born
in Denmark in the swinging sixties. After a
foray into modeling she decided, in 1992
at the age of 24, to launch an eponymous
label. Six years later she opened her first
store in Paris, quickly followed a second in
Tokyo. A combination of bohemian chic
and romantic aesthetics, her bags offer an
elegant take on off-duty style. This raffia
Le Cabas tote, handmade in Madagascar,
is topped with sequins and can be carried
by hand or on the shoulder.
EUR 195 WWW.VANESSABRUNO.COM
EUGENIA KIM
EMMANUELLE HAT
Made in New York, Eugenia Kim's
Emmanuelle fedoras, are an elegant,
feminine take on a classic male hat.
Fashioned from lightweight natural
straw, with a neatly pinched top and wide brim, they’re perfect
for shielding your face from prying eyes or the midday sun.
Decorated with everything from feathers to embroidery, we love
the version embellished with a colourful Quetzal bird applique
and silver box chain, pictured.
USD 395 WWW.EUGENIAKIM.COM
VAGABOND BEACH TOWEL
Luxury bohemian beach and lifestyle brand,
Vagabond, gleans inspiration for its products
from the beautiful environments that
surrounds us, and celebrate nature
and life. This distinctive 1.5 metre
circular towel, is made of super
plush 100% cotton terry
velour, and is suitable for
everything from a beach
day, picnic, or to throw over
a sofa at home. 10% of the
profit from the sale of this
towel goes to charities that
support our oceans and
wildlife.
EUR 79
WWW.VAGABONDBEACH.COM

A
Airpets www.airpets.com/kennel-club-class
Amanemu www.aman.com/resorts/amanemu
Arctic Light Hotel www.arcticlighthotel.fi
B
Battala Del Vino www.batalladelvino.com
Bloomsday www.bloomsdayfestival.ie
Britannia Panopticon
www.britanniapanopticon.org
C
Camel Cup www.camelcup.com.au
Chapter One www.chapteronerestaurant.com
Citation Taverne & Restaurant
www.citation-glasgow.com
Citizens Theatre www.citz.co.uk
Coravin www.coravin.com
D
Dakota Bar & Grill
www.glasgow.dakotahotels.co.uk/bar-grill
Delano Cartagena
www.morganshotelgroup.com/delano/delano-cartagena
F
Fireworks Studio www.fireworkspots.com
G
Gamba www.gamba.co.uk
Gandolfi Fish www.cafegandolfi.com/gandolfi-fish
Gion Matsuri www.kyotoguide.com
Glasgow School of Art www.gsa.ac.uk
Glorious Clothing
www.facebook.com/GloriousSecondHandClothing
H
Hop on Hop off Bus www.hop-on-hop-off-bus.com
Hyatt Regency Chandigarh
www.chandigarh.regency.hyatt.com
J
Jet Suite www.JetSuite.com
JetsMarter www.jetsmarter.com
K
Kelvingrove Art Gallery And Museum
www.glasgowlife.org.uk/museums/kelvingrove
King George www.kinggeorgeathens.com
Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling
www.turkishoilwrestling.net
Knysna Oyster Festival www.oysterfestival.co.za
L
Le Gray www.legray.com
Le Mas Candille www.lemascandille.co.uk
Library Hotel www.libraryhotel.com
Limalimo Lodge www.limalimolodge.com
Luciano K www.lucianokhotel.com
M
Maçakizi www.macakizi.com
132 The Cultured Traveller June/July 2016

Matador Room www.matadorroom.com
Metropolitan www.metropolitan-bar.com
Monorail www.monorailmusic.com
N
Necropolis www.glasgownecropolis.org
O
One Devonshire Gardens
www.hotelduvin.com/locations/glasgow/bistro
P
Pride New York www.nycpride.org
PrivateFly www.privatefly
Q
Qt Melbourne www.qthotelsandresorts.com
R
Rogano www.ministryofcrab.com
Rosewood Mayakobá
www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/mayakoba-riviera-maya
Rox - Diamonds & Thrills www.rox.co.uk
S
Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre www.sharmanka.com
Sharmanka www.sharmanka.com
Summer Solstice www.stonehenge.co.uk
Surf Air www.surfair.com
T
Taj Mahal www.tajmahal.gov.in
Tateossian www.tateossian.com
The Corinthian CluB www.thecorinthianclub.co.uk
The Modern Institute
www.themoderninstitute.com
The Pot Still www.thepotstill.co.uk
The Ritz-Carlton, Budapest
www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/europe/budapest
The Skinny www.theskinny.co.uk/
The Spiritualist www.thespiritualistglasgow.com
Tintswalo Atlantic www.tintswalo.com/atlantic
V
Verbier Festival www.verbierfestival.com
Victor www.flyvictor.com
W
W Dubai Al Habtoor City
www.wdubaialhabtoorcity.com
Wheels Up www.wheelsup.com
World Wife-Carrying Championships
www.eukonkanto.fi/en/
Signature Flight Support www.signatureflight.com
Sónar www.sonar.es/en/2016
Sonja Park www.sonjapark.org
Sub Club www.subclub.co.uk