(10) The Cultured Traveller, April-May 2016 Issue 10

ISSUE 10
APRIL/MAY 2016
SRI PONNAMBALAM VANESAR KOVIL, COLOMBO
COLOMBO • COPÁN RUINS • VANA MALSI ESTATE • NIHONBASHI
SAADIYAT ISLAND • THE EMPRESS SUITE • BOB SINCLAR

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memories that last a lifetime. qatarairways.com

Editor’s Letter
APRIL/MAY 2016
The future is now. When we
can step on a plane as easily
as we can hail a cab, traverse
the globe in 24 hours, vacation
anywhere on the planet, eat
whatever cuisine takes our
fancy anywhere, anytime, and
shop remotely at the click of a
button, what’s right in front of
us gets lost in the blur.
The best of what the world has
to reveal is often hidden in
plain sight, and we’re too
locked on fast-forward to see
it. Yet it’s these simple offerings that are often more rewarding
than our best-laid plans. The dancing fountains in downtown
Dubai are, for me, the best attraction in the city – yet the crowds
meander by without slowing. A walk along the Seine in Paris is
nature’s urban communion, often missed by many visitors in
favour of boutiques and baguettes. For years I visited
Johannesburg on business, but never flew down to Cape Town.
When I eventually did, so infatuated was I with the Mother City
that I stayed for months and didn't want to leave. That was more
than a decade ago, yet here I am, many years later having just
done it again, and the world still has secrets to show and stories
to tell.
I've been visiting Sri Lanka for three years yet never stopped to
see its capital. When I did visit Colombo on a quick jaunt last
year, I discovered a vibrant, artistic and blossoming metropolitan
hub in the middle of what is essentially a tourist island. When I
revisited to have a better look, uncovering its culture, history,
colour and charisma, there was no doubt that Colombo would
shine as a cover story for The Cultured Traveller. I hope you
enjoy reading about its energetic heart as much as I did
exploring its cultural nooks and culinary crannies.
This issue is our biggest to date I might add, as Lucy Taylor
visits the Honduran Copán ruins (p90), Ashlee Starratt takes a
weekend break on an island in Abu Dhabi (p74), and we pull up a
chair at Sri Lankan master chef Dharshan Munidasa’s table as
his famed Japanese restaurant makes Asia's 50 Best for the
fourth year in a row (p98). Then there’s my exclusive interview
with hospitality guru Brian Clivaz about his swanky new London
members club, slated to open in a matter of weeks in the heart
of the business district (p62). And, for the music lovers amongst
you, we managed to catch-up with dashing superstar French DJ
Bob Sinclar (p114). As always I hope you enjoy reading this
issue as much as the team and I had putting it together.
Copán Ruins
Colombo
Nicholas Chrisostomou
Saadiyat Island
08 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

Contributors
Ashlee Starratt
Resides: Doha • Wrote: No Shoes Required
Ashlee Starratt is a Canadian editor and journalist based out of Doha, Qatar. With a passion for story-telling,
if it’s lifestyle, wellness, travel or food, she’s probably written about it. With a background in print media
and television across Canada and the Middle East, Ashlee has worked as Editorial Director for Qatar
Happening and ABODE magazines, as a reporter, videographer and host for www.haligonia.ca, and as a
producer for Pink Dog Productions out of Halifax, Nova Scotia. She can be found on her travels, collecting
stamps in her passport, in search of stories that need to be told.
Alex Benasuli
Resides: London • Wrote: Spotlight
Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City, he would accompany
his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two-decade
career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India,
Indonesia and all over the Far East.
Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex has a keen appreciation for combining
luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.
Lucy Taylor
Resides: Bristol • Wrote: Traveller Lowdown
Lucy is an award-winning journalist with more than a decade’s experience in print and broadcast media. She
spent 7 years in the UAE, most recently working for Arabian Radio Network as News Editor and
Presenter/Producer of The Travel Show, and as a contributing reporter on City7 TV’s UAE Weekly programme.
Lucy left Dubai in December 2014 and has spent most of 2015 on the road, exploring new countries and cultures,
freelancing for various publications, and creating videos and podcasts for her website,
www.LucyTaylorTravels.com. Lucy has travelled to and reported from more than 50 countries.
Farheen Allsopp
Resides: Doha • Wrote: Stylish Globetrotter
Farheen is a model turned entrepreneur from London, currently based in Qatar. After the runways of
India, Paris, Milan, London and New York she now advises international fashion brands on their
Middle East strategy specialising in retail, PR and events. A globetrotter herself, Farheen is an avid
online shopper and treasure hunter. She loves discovering emerging brands and is committed to
bringing the far-fetched to your attention. Farheen loves adventure and is a cat-loving, free fall
parachutist, mother of two boys.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Nicholas Chrisostomou
DEPUTY EDITOR Kalia Michaelides
COPY EDITOR Hazel Pavlou-Jay
GRAPHIC DESIGNER Eleana Nicolaou
WEB DEVELOPERS Oleg Gnatyk & Dmytriy Suslov
SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@TheCulturedTraveller.com
TCT ON THE WEB www.TheCulturedTraveller.com
TCT ON FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/TheCulturedTraveller
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EDITORIAL words@theculturedtraveller.com

CAPE TOWN
JAZZ FESTIVAL
SOUTH AFRICA
Now in its 17 th year, the
Mother City's annual
award-winning celebration of jazz, will
once again take over the Cape Town
International Convention Centre for a
whole weekend, featuring everything
from jazz legends to festival
newcomers, musical storytellers and
up-tempo high-energy acts for younger
attendees. More than forty local and
international artists will perform on five
stages, including South African pianist
Afrika Mkhize, celebrated English jazz
flautist Eddie Parker,
Grammy-nominated singer/songwriter
Angie Stone from the States, plus
classically-trained Canadian music
group, BadBadNotGood.
1-2 April 2016
www.capetownjazzfest.com
10 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016
SNOWBOMBING
AUSTRIA
Often referred to as the
Glastonbury of mountain
gatherings, the world's biggest festival
in the snow takes place over a week in
the Tyrolean resort of Mayrhofen,
towards the end of the annual ski
season. Days are spent skiing, boarding,
enjoying music on mountain top stages
or relaxing in luxury hotel spas. Nights
deliver cutting-edge performances in
unique venues, from a sky high igloo to
an enchanted forest clearing. This
year's line-up includes The Prodigy,
Groove Armada, Fat Boy Slim, Jamie
Jones, The Cuban Brothers, Sven Vath
plus countless other famous DJs and
musical acts.
4-9 April 2016
www.snowbombing.com
NAGHOL LAND DIVING
VANUATU
Every year, men of the Sa
tribe on Pentecost Island in
a remote part of the vast South Pacific -
in a frightening appeasement to the
gods and a showy display of their
masculinity - build a 30 metre tower out
of wood reclaimed from the forest, climb
to the top, and jump off, tethered only
by jungle vines tied around their ankles.
Tribal members on the ground sing and
dance to help the diver be brave. If the
vine is too short the jumper will crash
back into the tower. If it’s too long, he
will almost certainly break bones or
possibly even perish. Watching these
jumpers is certainly not for the
faint-hearted. Thankfully tribal chiefs
allow only 50 visitors per event.
April 2016
www.portvilavanuatu.com
COACHELLA
USA
A huge, well organised
cultural playground of up to
100,000 people at any one time,
Coachella is the first major music event
in the annual festival calendar. Held at
the Empire Polo Club in the Colorado
Desert, this global gathering is
populated by sweaty fashionistas,
designer-hippies and musical
trendsetters for its 10-day duration. The
2016 line-up is headlined by Guns N'
Roses, LCD Soundsystem and superstar
DJ Calvin Harris, plus Sia, Ellie Goulding
and Disclosure. Coachella is very much
California's glossy, glam, dry and hot
answer to the wet and mud of
Glastonbury. You won't see any wellies
here!
15-24 April 2016
www.coachella.com

TRUJILLO NATIONAL
CHEESE FESTIVAL
SPAIN
Each spring, Trujillo in the
Cáceres region of Spain,
hosts a mammoth international cheese
fest, featuring around 300 varieties by
local artisan cheese makers together with
international produce. During the course
of the four-day gathering, up to 100,000
foodies descend on the town's historic
main square, Plaza Mayor, to sample
cheeses, eat and drink in one of the
restaurants and generally feast on the
finer culinary things in life, while hundreds
of booths in the square offer tastings,
talks, music and tasty treats for sale.
29 April - 2 May 2016
www.feriadelquesotrujillo.es
THRISSUR POORAM
ELEPHANT FESTIVAL
INDIA
Thrissur is known as the
cultural capital of the Indian
state of Kerala, and its name literally
translates to "The city of the Sacred
Siva". If you have a weakness for
colourful festivals that both delight and
assault the senses at the same time, this
is the one for you, complete with
fireworks, folk dancing and drumming.
The elephants are of course the main
attraction, decorated with golden
headdress, decorative bells, ornaments,
palm leaves, peacock feathers and
paintings. Ornate parasols, carried by
the elephant riders on tall bamboo
poles, add to the stunning visual feast.
17 April 2016
www.thrissurpooramfestival.com
FRIEZE NEW YORK
USA
The American cousin of
Britain’s most important
annual artistic happening, Frieze New
York has become one of the most
important contemporary art fairs
stateside, showcasing works by more
that 1,000 artists. The Big Apple
incarnation is fun, colourful and as much
of a social event for locals and overseas
visitors, as it is a serous art market for
dealers and curators. Here the pleasure
is attending, people watching, exploring
the art and discovering talented
newcomers beyond the obvious,
well-known pricey names. The food
ensemble is also jolly enticing.
5-8 May 2016
www.friezenewyork.com
CINCO DE MAYO
MEXICO
Despite being outnumbered
by the French - who had
about 8,000 men to the Mexicans' 4,000
- on 5 th May 1862, the Mexican army
was triumphant over French forces,
which were considered to be the best in
the world at the time, since they had
been undefeated in 50 years. Although
this victory was short-lived (within a
year the Mexicans capitulated and the
French took over the country), Cinco de
Mayo is dedicated to this triumph. A
vibrant colourful celebration, mainly
focused in the state of Puebla, costumed
paraders, Mexican dancers, mariachi
bands, parties and dancing fill the
streets, while festival goers eat, drink
and cheerfully carouse.
5 May 2016

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BRIGHTON FESTIVAL
UK
Previous guest directors of
London-By-The-Sea's (as it's
often affectionally called) critically
acclaimed mixed art festival, have
included Aung San Suu Kyi, Vanessa
Redgrave and Anish Kapoor. The UK's
biggest and boldest arts festival,
Brighton Festival is a creative
cornucopia of world-class art and
entertainment events across the city,
including debates, musical concerts and
theatrical performances - many of which
are specially commissioned and have
their public airings at the festival.
7-29 May 2016
www.brightonfestival.org
CAPPADOX
TURKEY
In Cappadocia - a region in
central Turkey full of
marvellous natural sites, including
Monks Valley's tall cone-shaped rock
formations known as the “fairy
chimneys” - is a three-day festival like
no other, nestled amongst the ancient
rocks. Cappadox is a celebration of
eclectic music, food, arts and culture,
inspired by the unique geography and
history of the area, including a range of
performances, dining events and
outdoor activities such as cycling, yoga
and nature walks, to take in the beauty
and make the most of the festival's
incredible location.
19-22 May 2016
www.cappadox.com
STARS OF THE
WHTE NIGHTS
RUSSIA
Directed by maestro Valery
Gergiev, the opera and
ballet companies of St Petersburg's
famous Mariinsky Theatre, are
renowned and revered throughout
Russia and around the world, for their
incredibly detailed and elaborate
interpretations of the greatest classics,
including Tchaikovsky‘s Eugene Onegin
and Swan Lake, plus works by Mozart,
Verdi and Rossini. The annual White
Nights festival of ballet and opera is a
unique cultural event, held at the city's
three premier music venues - Mariinsky
Theatre, New Theatre and Concert Hall
- during the magical summer period
when the sun never sets.
27 May-31 July 2016
www.balletandopera.com
CANNES INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
FRANCE
Barring the red carpet, Cannes is probably most famous for its beach
happenings, premiere after parties and awards ceremony bashes. Held
annually in the famous upscale French seaside resort, it's one of the film world's most
important events, attended by prestigious directors and famous actors as well as
up-and-coming producers and professionals who have yet to make their mark.
Nowadays the festival provides a rendezvous for those interested in movies, film
makers and the industry's influencers, as well as an international marketplace where
producers and distributors exchange ideas, watch films and sign contracts.
11-22 May 2016
www.festival-cannes.com
HAY FESTIVAL
WALES
For ten days annually from
the end of May until early
June, for the past 27 years (when the
playful British weather is most likely to
be bright and sunny), thousands of
literary buffs descend upon
Hay-on-Wye in Wales' beautiful Brecon
Beacons National Park, sit down on the
grass or in a deckchair and read books.
Hay celebrates great writing from poets
and scientists, lyricists and comedians,
novelists and environmentalists, and the
power of great ideas to transform
peoples' way of thinking, and gives
everyone from children to professors
the opportunity to enjoy the energy of
the written word.
26 May - 5 June 2016
www.hayfestival.com/wales
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 13

MIAMI
FAENA
Miami Beach had its golden age, beginning in the
1940s lasting through the early 1960s. Temples of
Art Deco and Modernism were built. Frank Sinatra
and the Rat Pack entertained. Despite its
ascendancy, Miami was a relative backwater
compared to the chic and sexy Latin cities of Rio de
Janeiro, Havana and Buenos Aires. Today, Miami
increasingly claims its place as the de facto capital
of Latin America and a global centre for the arts and
culture. Whilst the latter is almost certainly true,
nothing epitomizes this transformation of Miami
more adeptly, than the recent opening of Faena
hotel in December 2015 and the soon to be
revealed Faena Forum, all the brainchild of
enigmatic billionaire Argentinian hotelier and real
estate developer, Alan Faena.
A cornucopia of tropical chic, Faena makes a
direct claim as the descendant of Miami's and Latin
America's golden age. This luxurious feel is made
more contemporary and fun by providing the drama
and creativity that coincidentally come when
parading a theme of art, music and culture. The
hotel entrance is cathedral-like, with soaring
ceilings, a long hallway lined with gold-leafed
columns and richly colourful Garden of
Eden-inspired murals by Argentine painter, Juan
Gatti. At the end of this passage way, through the
main lobby and out past the pool and garden
towards the beach, stands Damien Hirst's 'Gone but
not Forgotten' (2014) – the 24-karat gilded skeleton
of a three-metre tall woolly mammoth, reputed to
have cost a cool USD 18 million.
Restaurant Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann is
another focal point of Faena, and is under the
gastronomic direction of one of Argentina's most
celebrated chefs. Los Fuegos being Spanish for
fire, hints as to the type of cuisine primarily on offer
- grilled meats, fish and vegetables for which
Argentina is famous. Fiery not only describes the
food but also the overall ethos of the décor. Shades
of gold and bronze combined with deep reds and
faux leopard skin create a sumptuous, luxurious
and decadent ambiance. The adjoining Living
Room, often hosting Cuban bands and cabaret
singers, has quickly become one of Miami's most
elegant nightspots. This lounge, together with
Saxony DJ bar, form Faena’s nightlife epicentre.
Rooms of every category - from city to ocean
view and multiple suite offerings - are beautifully
decorated with strong accents of teal and red and
an Art Deco flair. All rooms and suites include the
hotel’s signature butler service.
The hotel is just the first part of the ever-evolving
Faena District, a massive master-planned
arts/entertainment/residential development that
stretches four blocks along Mid-Beach between the
Atlantic Ocean to Indian Creek, that includes a
Norman Foster-designed tower of private
residences and the much anticipated Faena Forum
designed by starchitect Rem Koolhaas, a true
cultural centre focusing on performance arts, music,
fine arts and much more. Even film director Baz
Luhrmann is part of team Faena. Clearly a new
golden age is happening in Miami.
ALEX BENASULI
www.faena.com
14

Rest Your Head
Miami, Berlin, Stellenbosch, Seville, Langkawi, London,
Bangkok, Athens, Tanah Gajah, Kalpitiya, Marrakech, Venice
DAMIEN HIRST'S GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
IMAGE BY IVAN BELAUSTEGUI, COURTESY OF FAENA

DAS STUE HOTEL
Since the wall came down, the rebirth of Berlin as one of the world’s most happening social hubs has been far from quiet. At its core is a
loud and vibrant, multi-cultured cosmopolitan art and nightlife scene, bursting with vivacity and charisma. Extremes of everything can be
found in this one city, including some of Europe’s best restaurants, bars and clubs, and Berlin’s annual cultural calendar is jam-packed with
events, one of the biggest being Berlinale, the world-famous international film festival. Consequently contemporary and traditional hotels, of
all sizes and at every price point, have sprung up around the city, to accommodate the droves of people visiting throughout the year.
New luxe boutique hotel, Das Stue, is a perfect representation of the Berlin of today, skilfully combining old and new and paying tribute
to the city’s past whilst at the same time embracing its outrageous present. Housed within a stunning, stately, 1930s neoclassical house -
formerly the Danish embassy - together with a contemporary new addition designed by Potsdam-based Axthelm Architects, 78-room Das
Stue is located in the city’s traditional diplomatic neighbourhood, on the edge of Tiergarten Park. The hotel’s art aficionado owners chose
acclaimed interior designer, Patricia Urquiola, to curate the look and feel of all the public areas. Her signature is a bold yet playful palate of
colour, texture, styles and installations, in some places arresting whilst calming in others. The result is assertive and utterly unique.
Rooms and suites feature a soft colour scheme, bespoke furniture, spacious bathrooms and all the amenities a cultured traveller would
expect, sufficient to properly unwind after a frenzied day in the city. Das Stue’s premium accommodation offering is its Bel Etage Suite,
equipped with two bathrooms and a sprawling living/dining room covering 110m² of interior space, 5 metre ceilings, plus a 80m² private
terrace from which Berlin Zoo’s animals can be both seen and heard. KALIA MICHAELIDES
www.das-stue.com/en
16

BERLIN

STELLENBOSCH
18

DELAIRE GRAFF
In the Western Cape of South Africa, on the banks of the Eerste River, nestles the town of Stellenbosch, sheltered in a lush valley. Its hilly
terrain, with soils that range from dark alluvium to clay, combined with a mild Mediterranean climate which prevails all year round, have
established this location as an ideal place for viticulture, and hence is home to some of the world's finest wineries. It comes as little
surprise then, that Laurence Graff, chairman of Graff diamonds, chose one of Stellenbosch's most breathtaking estates to create a unique
destination of unparalleled beauty, which combines hospitality, wine, food, art and glittering jewels. Delaire Graff Estate is decadence,
culture and indulgence personified, much like a rare diamond skilfully crafted, polished and set.
Ten individual lodges, fashioned by acclaimed British designer, David Collins, offer serene accommodation for discerning travellers.
Each basks in natural light with double-height ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, which open out onto private, heated, plunge pools and
vistas of vineyards, mountains and the estate’s perennial gardens. Neutral colours compliment the environment, whilst spacious marble
bathrooms and contemporary African artworks lend an air of understated opulence, and the use of bamboo and reed together with
polished concrete floors evoke minimalistic simplicity.
Twenty hectares of vineyards produce the estate's award-winning wines, and whether you are a resident at Delaire or just an oenophile
visitor, you can view the state-of-the-art winery, observe winemakers on-the-job and taste the fruits of their labours. Like everything else,
dining also takes a different dimension here. Fresh produce - harvested daily from the estate’s greenhouses and gardens - is delivered to
dining tables bursting with colour and flavour. At Indochine, diners can savour divine Asian-influenced cuisine with a South African twist,
prepared by head chef Virgil Kahn. Meanwhile seasonal dishes abound at The Delaire Graff Restaurant, where classic bistro favourites are
treated to South African touches and served in a spacious environment including a sprawling deck facing the vineyards and olive groves.
With its distinctly holistic approach, Delaire Graff Spa caters to all ages and is open to residents and guests alike. Its innovative menu
includes bespoke healing and anti-ageing treatments, some using 24-karat gold and Citrine, and is a sublime place to cocoon and indulge.
And as if all the eating, drinking, reclining and lounging weren’t enough, there’s even a jewellery boutique showcasing Graff’s exquisite
diamonds and haute horology in suitably resplendent surroundings. KALIA MICHAELIDES
www.delaire.co.za

CORRAL DEL REY
SEVILLE
Unfolding Seville’s myriad of layers, to discover the heart and core of this sundrenched Andalusian city, will reward you with untold pleasures
and revelations. Moorish architecture and cobbled streets give Seville the looks, Flamenco adds zest and the foodie scene fulfils the
gratification. The gusto of the Sevillanos is contagious and it’s not difficult to become addicted to both their languor and joie de vivre.
One of the best places to rest your head in this vivacious city and uncover all that Seville has to offer, is Corral Del Rey, a 17 th century
Casa Palacio, lovingly restored with devotion and much TLC. Conveniently located in the old quarter of Barrio Alfalfa, just five minutes from
the cathedral, this bijou privately-owned boutique hotel, offers deluxe accommodation in five categories, including a spacious pool terrace
suite with private plunge pool and expansive sundeck, and a penthouse suite boasting views across the rooftops of Seville. The hotel’s
interior designer, Kuky Mora-Figueroa, has stamped her eclectic mix of ancient and modern in every room, rendering each refreshingly
different from the other. Bathrooms are bedecked in marble and limestone with walk-in rain showers, and the finest linens and handmade
blankets adorn the beds.
A city of eaters, drinkers and merry-makers, Seville is home to many excellent tapas bars. One of the city’s oldest is the atmospheric El
Riconcillo, famous for its superb raciones (www.elrinconcillo.es) and Corral Del Rey’s helpful staff will be more than happy to guide you
there, or furnish you with a list of the best restaurants and bodegas in town. Should you prefer to spend a night in, the hotel’s quaint rooftop
terrace, with its extended mirador, is a delightful place to sip a glass of wine, nibble on home-made tapas and take in the sweeping views of
the picturesque cityscape. KALIA MICHAELIDES
www.corraldelrey.com
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 21

THE ST. REGIS
LANGKAWI
For decades the 99-island archipelago
of Langkawi - a UNESCO World First
Geopark, off the western coast of
northern Malaysia - has been the
weekend destination for Singaporians
and Kuala Lumpans in need of a quick
fix of sea and sand away from city
madness. Langkawi has largely
remained everything that Bali has not,
i.e. relatively undeveloped with few
flash resorts and discreet nightlife, and
so the destination has lost little of its
natural charm and landscape, managed
to retain an air of sophistication, and
continues to provide a rather palatable
option for those looking for an authentic
south-east Asian beachside vacation
without the fireworks and late-night
shenanigans.
The St. Regis Langkawi Resort is
the first luxury hotel to open within the
last decade in Malaysia’s coveted
island jewel, and is the upscale
hospitality brand's debut property in
Malaysia, soon to be followed by The
St. Regis Kuala Lumpur scheduled to
open in June 2016. Tucked away in an
exclusive enclave in its own private
cove on Langkawi's southern most tip,
St. Regis Langkawi is the first luxury
all-suite resort on the islands, and its
architectural footprint follows that of a
vast, private residential palace, nestled
within steep rocky hills, forming two
small peninsulas along a sandy shore.
A six-storey central mansion, with two
lagoon suite wings cascading outwards
towards the shorelines, are fringed by a
600-metre private white sand beach
overlooking the emerald green waters
of a 100,000m 2 natural salt swimming
lagoon, also private, which merges with
the shimmering Andaman Sea. Guests
are immersed in a dreamlike
atmosphere immediately upon arrival,
luxuriating in blue lights, cooling mists
and a dramatic garden oasis. The
resort's 4 over-water villas and 85
suites - including 20 private pool suites
(with their own cabanas) and a
four-bedroom over-water villa - are
decorated in fresh, light colour
schemes inspired by the area’s brilliant
corals, emerald green sea and lush
jungles, accented with bold precious
metallic touches and local artwork
which underscores Langkawi's rich
heritage and natural surroundings. All
suites boast incredible sunset views
and the resort also features a number
of deluxe on-site dining options and
bars, plus an eight treatment-room
Iridium Spa, to further enliven the
senses and keep you on property.
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
www.stregis.com/langkawi
LANGKAWI
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 23

THE HOXTON, HOLBORN
London is forever reinventing itself and its hotel scene is no exception. The onset of Airbnb and similar property rental websites, has caused
many of the world's metropolises to adjust their accommodation offerings to compete more effectively in what is now a vastly expanded and
more cost-conscious arena. Leisure travellers visiting the sometimes pricey British capital - without the benefit of a company expense
account - are especially attracted by the many benefits of renting a serviced apartment, which usually offer more space, more privacy and
less damage to the holiday budget. The Hoxton group has cleverly stepped into this market, with its funky, no-nonsense, well considered,
design-led hotel concept, offering rooms of varying sizes at reasonable prices with the bare necessities included.
The first Hoxton hotel won multiple awards and quickly became a destination for eating and drinking in Shoreditch, as well as staying
overnight, offering fashionable value for money in the often over-priced City of London. The hotel brand's second outpost, located within a
Grade II listed building in High Holborn, a stone's throw (literally) from Covent Garden, offers 174 bedrooms over five floors in four cutesy
upfront categories, including the smallest, Shoebox, and largest, Roomy. Each are cleverly and stylishly designed to maximise comfort and
space, with duck-down pillows and duvets, plus 280-thread count linen decking beds which feature hand-crafted, Royal Warranted luxury
Hypnos mattresses. City slick en-suites are tiled in glossy black and white, with walk-in showers, fluffy towels and American C.O. Bigelow
amenities. Room stay guests benefit from free Wi-Fi, an hour of landline phone calls each day, fresh milk, tea, coffee and mineral water, plus
a daily breakfast bag filled with orange juice, granola yoghurt pot and banana to kick start the day.
Public spaces are run by the immensely skilled Soho House group, and include Hubbard & Bell dishing up classic American grub,
Chicken Shop serving rotisserie chicken, and Holborn Grind coffee shop creating frothy cappuccinos and skinny lattés for the masses. On
street level, with a bright shop-front on High Holborn, there's also Cheeky, a funky boutique dedicated to pampering, where guests can
indulge in a mani or pedi expeditiously executed by a skilled technician, seven days a week. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
www.thehoxton.com/london/holborn
24

LONDON

Your new home in Athens
COCO-MAT Hotel Athens
36 Patriarchou Ioakim Str., Kolonaki
T +30 210 7230 000
info@cocomatathens.com
www.cocomatathens.com
NEW YORK | BERLIN | MILAN | DÜSSELDORF | PARIS | MADRID | HAMBURG | DUBAI | AMSTERDAM | ROME | ATHENS
LIMASSOL | SEOUL | BEIJING | SHANGHAI | ANTWERP | SINGAPORE | FRANKFURT | ROTTERDAM | COLOGNE | NICOSIA

THE SIAM
The Siam is the complete
antithesis to Bangkok’s soaring
skyscrapers and
cloud-skimming skyline.
Located in the Royal Dusit
district, on the banks of the
Chao Praya River, its distinctly
low-rise design and select
inventory of just 39 suites and
villas, sets it apart from the
frantic city as an urban oasis of
exclusivity, calm and elegance.
Constructed to house the
private antique collection of the
hotel’s owners, the Sukosol
family - fondly dubbed the
‘musical hoteliers’ of Thailand -
its matriarch and president of
Sukosol Hotels, Kamala
Sukosol, was Forbes Asia’s
Hero of Philanthropy in 2009.
Her excellent taste, eye for
detail and fondness for all
things beautiful are evident
throughout The Siam’s
interiors, which evoke the
grace and splendour of
Bangkok’s era under the rule of
King Rama V, complete with a
dusting of Art Deco touches. A
muted colour scheme of black,
white, cream, grey and neutral
tones, has been skilfully
combined with natural textures
- including woods, leathers and
stone finishes - fashioned by
Bill Bensley, name-checked as
one of Architectural Digest’s
top 100 designers. The result is
breathtakingly stylish,
sophisticated and most likely
timeless.
Suites and villas have been
individually designed and filled
with original Oriental artworks,
sculptures and antiques.
Exquisite bathrooms of black
and white, feature walk-in
showers, oversized bathtubs
and lavish fittings. Riverview
pool villas - of which The Siam
has four - have internal
gardens, a private swimming
pool, an open-air roof terrace
and stand to attention in prime
position on the riverfront. Every
suite at The Siam comes with a
personal butler and guests may
avail themselves of a private
boat service which shuttles
between the hotel and Saphan
Taksin central pier.
Consequently The Siam is
almost certainly one of the most
chic and cultured addresses in
the Thai capital.
KALIA MICHAELIDES
www.thesiamhotel.com
BANGKOK
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 27

COCO-MAT HOTEL ATHENS
Despite the country's recent, much publicised financial woes, the capital has largely shrugged-off Greece's economic dramas and
conversely benefitted from a surge in international visitors, looking for a good value cultural experiential vacation. After all, Athens is one of
the most historic cities in the world, and few sites can compare with its spectacular Acropolis together with the city's wealth of
extraordinary ancient relics and museums. Marry these with funky bars and galleries, a booming culinary scene, jumping music industry
and a vibrant art culture, and you have the makings of a pulsating city break in incredible surroundings, offering something for everyone -
locals, tourists, young, old, students, collectors, shoppers and international jet setters alike. Consequently many of Athens' hotels - even
the top-end most expensive - regularly run at full capacity, and so finding quality, well-located, reasonably-priced accommodation in the
Greek capital is not as easy as one would have thought.
In pre crisis days, the old-moneyed neighbourhood of Kolonaki was the go-to place for cash flushed Athenians to power shop for Gucci,
Fendi and other designers. Today the high end shops are very much still present in the city's most exclusive district, but Kolonaki is more
funky, modern and hip, and so Italian brands trade side-by-side with clothing and accessories designed by Greeks, together with cafés,
restaurants and bars, of which the area - particularly around the bustling square - is brimming. The neighbourhood also boasts beautiful
architecture, including some stunning buildings which date back to the interwar era, plus some splendid examples of the Athenian
modernist movement. Originally built as an apartment block, the 1935 building which houses COCO-MAT Hotel Athens, underwent an
extensive transformation to create an exclusive, modern urban hideaway, of 39 rooms and luxury suites for Athens explorers in the know.
The hotel interior pays tribute to the understated elegance that the well-known Greek COCO-MAT brand is best known for. Natural
materials, subtle colours, gentle tones, raw surfaces, creative décor elements and designer touches, all harmonise perfectly to convey a
cool, contemporary feel, and offer a spa-like hospitality retreat from the city's busy streets. Guest rooms feature unique artwork, boast
dramatic city or Lycabettus Hill vistas, and obviously the sleep experience - thanks to COCO-MAT’s divine mattresses, pillows and top-end
bed linen - is undoubtedly one of the best in Athens. Guests also enjoy free bicycle rental of the hotel’s unique 100% wooden designer
cycles. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
www.cocomatathens.com
28

ATHENS

THE CHEDI CLUB
Despite the huge number of tourists Bali attracts year round, and its commercialised adaptation to host and cater to visitors from all walks
of life, there are still a few charmingly hidden spots on the island, believe it or not. Away from the surfers and overcrowded areas of Kuta
and Seminyak, set on a Balinese hillside, is the village of Ubud, renowned for its artists societies and the cinematic setting of Eat Pray
Love. Among endless acres of rice paddies, The Chedi Club sits here in completely secluded solitude. A former private estate turned luxury
retreat, the resort occupies five hectares of verdant land, dotted with just twenty luxury vacation pads, overlooking nothing but lotus ponds
and rice terraces. Balinese paintings hang on brick walls and wood-carved furniture fill the rooms. Open-air bathrooms connect guests with
the environment, and outdoor living spaces provide a calm-enough setting to chill, switch-off and completely detach from the world. For
those seeking greater privacy, Spa Pool Villas boast their own treatment room, and a dedicated butler is discreetly on hand to fulfil guests’
every fancy.
The Chedi Club’s enchanting onsite restaurant - designed in the local style with a thatched roof and no walls - not only continues the
resort’s sense of serenity, but is also one of best eateries in the area, offering Balinese, Western and Asian dishes, all prepared using the
freshest ingredients, organic vegetables and rice harvested from adjacent fields. Together with a pool bar, divine onsite spa and yoga
studio, there really is very little reason to leave this Balinese haven of peace, relaxation and tranquillity until it’s time to return to the real
world. KALIA MICHAELIDES
www.ghmhotels.com/en/tanah-gajah/
30

TANAH GAJAH

KALPITIYA
BLUE KITE
Given that it's five hours flying time or less from Hong Kong, Singapore plus the capitals of UAE, Qatar, Oman and Malaysia, in recent
years Sri Lanka has become increasingly popular amongst expats looking for an authentic break from their pressurised Middle Eastern
and Asian jobs. It's not hard to see why, when the island has plenty to offer and tourists get so much for their holiday dollars. In Sri Lanka
you can spend a day walking through spectacular hills, admiring tea plantations and quaint villages, then find yourself on a safari trip
looking for leopards and elephants. You can white water raft in the rainforest, then check out for a few days on a picturesque beach and
bask in glorious sunshine. Hence the hospitable island nation is now awash with deluxe villas, stand alone boutique guest houses,
design-led hotels, colonial retreats, wellness and spa escapes and plush resorts, both inland and all around its 1,300 km of coastline. Of
course these range hugely in price, quality, comfort levels and experience. It's easy to find somewhere fancy to rest your head in Sri
Lanka, with pricing not dissimilar to the Maldives, which is just a one-hour hop, skip and jump away. But when it comes to quality, value for
money and personal service, it's less easy to find somewhere comfy to relax and kick-back without breaking the bank. A holiday doesn't
always have to cost an arm and a leg.
Not satisfied with creating Udekki - one of the most popular design-led resorts in the sandy haven of Kalpitiya, halfway up Sri Lanka's
west coast, boasting some of the world's best kitesurfing conditions - jazz and blues musician, Glen Terry, has recently opened Blue Kite,
in tandem with his charming photographer partner, Carolyn McKay. A delightful, four-bedroom bijou resort, built around a sublime oversized
swimming pool, this is not an overpriced 5-star hotel, but a mid-priced super-comfy retreat, bedecked with designer touches and serviced
by a small, personal and friendly team, for whom literally nothing is too much trouble. From the gorgeous fabrics, plush pillows and luxe
bed linens, to the authentic wooden furnishings and hand-picked local art, Carolyn's eye for detail and good taste are evident everywhere,
and provide just the right balance between necessity and luxury. Rooms are oversized with traditional four-poster beds, open bathrooms
with walk-in showers and plenty of space to lounge. Delicious meals produced using fresh, local ingredients and locally-caught fish and
crustaceans (the crab and lobster in this part of the world are superb), can either be served in your room or poolside, and you can eat what
you like when you like. Nothing is set in stone at Blue Kite, and some of the island's best kitesurfing is just a few metres away.
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
www.bluekitekalpitiya.com
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 33

MARRAKECH
34

ROYAL MANSOUR
Morocco is one of the most diverse countries in the world, touching both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea, with a fascinating
culture descended from European, Berber, Arab and African influences. With its sweeping desert, dramatic mountains, colourful medinas,
vibrant souks and luxurious hotels, Morocco is a destination that is on pretty much everybody’s bucket list.
Marrakech - a former imperial city steeped in history, abundant with architectural gems - is now home to the exquisite Royal Mansour,
located in its heart. A design masterpiece, the hotel skilfully blends its ancestors’ heritage with architecture echoing its homeland, together
with native artisan craftsmanship and modern amenities, creating a truly unique and prestigious vacation address.
Comprising 53 riads - each of one to four bedrooms - all guests at Royal Mansour enjoy private accommodation which spans three
floors. Riads range in size from a one-bedroom Superior of 150m 2 , to the 850m 2 three-bedroom Prestige and on to the huge, sprawling
Grand Riad of four bedrooms, akin to a Moroccan palace. At the centre of every riad, on the ground floor, is an interior courtyard leading to
a living room, bar and outdoor patio. Larger riads also feature a dining room, swimming pool, steam room and hammam. The private
rooms of each riad - the bedrooms and bathrooms - are located on the first floor, whilst roof terraces boast a private plunge pool and
fireplace under a traditional Moroccan tent, to a backdrop of views over the medina, gardens or snow-covered Atlas Mountains. Lavish
silks and brocades, plus carefully placed local art, give each riad its own unique identity.
Gastronomy plays an important role at Royal Mansour, with three distinctive restaurants entrusted to renowned three Michelin-starred
chef, Yannick Alléno. Each outlet offers a different culinary journey, whether modern dining, redefined local cuisine or a French feast.
KALIA MICHAELIDES
www.royalmansour.com

PRIZE
WORTH
EUR 2,600
WIN
A TWO-NIGHT STAY AT SAN
CLEMENTE PALACE KEMPINSKI
Spend two nights in splendid Venice, staying at the palatial San Clemente
in a lagoon view Grand Deluxe Room, complete with a pair of Aperol
Spritz sun-downer cocktails at Garden Bar on your first evening, breakfast
each morning at Insieme, and a three-course gourmet dinner for two at
Acquerello including wine pairing.
To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city, email
and mobile number) to WIN@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM.
Prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw will take place on 31 May
2016 and the winner will be notified first week of June 2016. This prize can be used until 31 December 2016, subject to room
availability. Rest assured The Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties.
36

VENICE
SAN CLEMENTE PALACE KEMPINSKI
La Serenissima casts a spell over visitors like few other cities in
Europe. Countless myths and stories abound about Venice, and
the lagoon city has been the star of numerous books and
movies. Ten minutes away from Piazza San Marco by boat, is
the private island of San Clemente, filled with four acres of lush
parkland, intimate gardens, historic courtyards, a stunning 12 th
century church and a sprawling former monastery which is now
home to a deluxe Kempinski hotel. San Clemente Palace is the
perfect base from which to explore the famous city, and retreat
back to after a day amongst the throngs of tourists, to your own
personal haven of splendour, decadence and peace.
Public spaces are opulently adorned with luxe silks, lavish
brocades and Murano chandeliers, whilst three restaurants
provide a selection of on-site dining options. Guests start the
day with breakfast at Insieme, located in the hotel's picturesque
inner courtyard complete with ancient well. In the heart of the
park - beside the swimming pool which is the hotel’s life and
soul during the summer months - La Dolce is Venetian resort
living personified, serving classic Mediterranean fare and pizzas
from a traditional wood-fired oven. At elegant fine dining
restaurant Acquerello, modern gastronomic delights and Italian
haute cuisine sit side-by-side on the menu, and diners mangiare
to a backdrop of breathtaking Piazza San Marco views.
Equipped with a hotel-prepared gourmet picnic basket, guests
can also stroll around the island and find a romantic spot to dine
al fresco, surrounded by established cypresses, blooming
hydrangea and dozens of lime trees, radiating their sweet,
intoxicating scent in June and July.
190 rooms and suites boast views of the park, Venice
skyline, lagoon or lido. Wide, spacious corridors and vaulted
cloisters lead to guest ac-commodations decorated in a classic
style with warm, calming colours, high ceilings lending an air of
grandness. Situated next to the kids club and La Dolce
restaurant and bar, the Giardini Suite is a private holiday chalet
of almost 100m 2 , consisting of two separate sleeping areas, two
bathrooms, a shared lounge and its own private garden.
Located in the monastery's former laundry is the hotel's largest
suite at 164m 2 , San Clemente, with wooden beamed ceilings,
state-of-the-art gadgetry and a huge tub with a rather splendid
view. By combining the San Clemente Suite with seven
adjoining suites in the same building, an exclusive private
palazzo - completely separate from the hotel - can be reserved
for a family, wedding party or pop star and entourage, complete
with a dedicated pier for yachts of up to 35 metres.
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
www.kempinski.com/en/venice/san-clemente-palace-kempinski

We are honoured
and privileged
to be ranked
No. 25 on
Please contact us at
reservations@ministryofcrab.com as early as possible to avoid disappointment.
Open Daily
Lunch 11.30 A.M. to 3 P.M. | Dinner 6 P.M. to 11 P.M.
Closed on Poya Days:
April 22nd, May 21st, June 20th, July 6th, July 20th, August 18th, September 16th
October 16th, November 14th & December 14th
011 234 CRAB (2722) | www.ministryofcrab.com

'm a fan of India and particularly enjoy the extremes of
colour, sights, sounds and scents. Perhaps because my
day-to-day life is largely played-out in cities, I simply
adore the brightness, chaos, serenity, delicacy, and the
good, bad and ugly of being in India. And despite what any
brochure or tour operator might tell you, there is often a lot
of ugly when visiting any country that is still developing
and finding its feet. Travelling to a country in this part of the
world is an assault on all the senses, but for those ready to
appreciate new things and absorb different experiences,
there is nothing quite like visiting India for the vacation of a
lifetime. For those not so adventurous, less travelled and
perhaps a little time pressured, Sri Lanka is a much better
option. In two words, Sri Lanka is India light. It's more
personal, more affectionate and a lot less drama. Invariably
this is because Sri Lanka's a small nation - no bigger than
Ireland - with a population of barely 20 million, compared to
more than one billion in India, rendering the Indian Ocean
island infinitely more intimate and exclusive. That the
country relies so heavily on tourism also has a lot to do with
During the past two
millennia, there has barely
been a century in Sri
Lanka’s tumultuous past,
when the country wasn’t
occupied, invaded or
ravaged by war, yet its
people have maintained
their dignity, drive and
ingenuity.
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 39

SAMBODHI CHAITHYA TEMPLE
the friendly disposition of its people. It’s much easier to
travel to Sri Lanka. Visas are cheaper and obtaining one is
less hassle. Tourist transactions generally go more smoothly,
best-laid plans tend to pan out, hotels almost always deliver
and planes generally leave on time, with Sri Lanka’s national
flag carrier leading the way. But like many South Asian
countries - where the wealth is concentrated in the capital
and much of the rest of the country lives a much more basic
life - of course Sri Lanka has its social extremes. There are
the rich, middle classes and poor, and then there are the
downright
destitute, but no
holidaymaker can
change this - no
matter how many
times one visits -
and so its
recommended
that travellers
pre-prepare and
try to accept a destination’s social status quo before leaving
home.
When it comes to scenery and culinary experiences, Sri
Lanka is one of the most beautiful countries I've visited and
has some of the best food to have passed my lips (I’m not a
fan of spicy foods, yet have always managed to leave a few
kilos heavier), and Sri Lankans are some of the most
charming people I've encountered on any trip. From the very
first time I visited the island nation a few years ago, I
40 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016
developed a fondness for Sri Lanka and its people that I
cannot entirely explain. During the past two millennia, there
has barely been a century in Sri Lanka’s tumultuous past,
when the country wasn’t occupied, invaded or ravaged by
war; yet its people have maintained their dignity, drive and
ingenuity, and are especially kind to tourists. Perhaps this
explains my affection for the country. It’s almost certainly a
trait which sets the island apart from many other South
Asian holiday destinations. Sri Lankans are warm,
industrious and polite, always willing to help, and keen to
keep abreast of
trends and new
technology.
Nothing
showcases this
more succinctly,
than
Colombo-based
“Pick Me”, which
cleverly brings
together tuk-tuks, mini taxis (tiny cars) and cabs in one
convenient app, making hailing a tuk-tuk in Colombo a
hugely less traumatising experience than anywhere else in
Asia. Sri Lanka caught on to tourism a long time ago,
became tourist savvy earlier than India, and has since
become one of the most popular destinations in the Asia
Pacific region, not least due to the island's relatively easy
accessibility from the rest of the world. But to date, most
international visitors have tended to land at Bandaranaike
Airport, swiftly exit the city limits of Colombo, and head to
Halfway up the island's west coast and home to
around six million people, in recent years Colombo
has emerged as a cosmopolitan metropolis, fusing
Asian warmth with international influences to create
a humming city that is positively booming.

DUTCH HOSPITAL
GANGARAMAYA BUDDHIST TEMPLE
ARCADE INDEPENDENCE SQUARE
the island’s seaside resorts without giving the capital a
thought. I was as guilty of this as anyone else until I spent a
few nights in Colombo six months ago (after a beach
holiday) and discovered - much to my surprise - a thriving,
captivating, multi-faceted metropolis with tons of charisma.
Halfway up the island's west coast and home to around six
million people, in recent years Colombo has emerged as a
cosmopolitan metropolis, fusing Asian warmth with
international influences to create a humming city that is
positively
booming with
new businesses
and
entrepreneurial
start-ups.
Although
reclaiming its 19 th
century nickname,
'the garden city of
the East', is still a little way off (there’s barely any grass on
the city centre’s renowned Galle Face Green), Colombo is
now a must-see stop in Sri Lanka and has become a worthy
destination in its own right, for its fascinating heritage,
colonial monuments, super shopping, culture at every turn
and hospitable locals, together with some of Asia’s best
restaurants, all encompassed in a bustling city with a
town-like charm.
No city break can happen without a decent place to rest your
head, and Colombo has an abundance of independent,
boutique, privately owned and historic hotels to choose
from. When well-known high-end chains like Shangri-La
and Grand Hyatt are busy building huge five-star hotels, it’s
a clear indication that a city’s fortunes are definitely on the
rise. Shangri-La’s new 33-storey 543-room Colombo hotel is
due to open in 2017, and will also feature more than 400
luxury apartments in a separate tower of 50 floors.
Meanwhile Grand Hyatt’s 47-storey Colombo outpost of 475
guestrooms is destined to be the tallest in the city, set right
on the city’s
Indian Ocean
seafront. The
Cultured
Traveller’s
lodgings of choice
in Colombo were
the iconic and
lovingly-restored
Galle Face Hotel,
quite possibly one of the most captivating and magical
hotels I’d ever had the pleasure to reside in. Like stepping
back into romantic, colonial times - when the country was
known as Ceylon - waking every morning to the sound of
the sea outside my window, gently reminded me exactly
where I was and set me up perfectly for the days of
exploration ahead. Cities situated on the sea’s edge have a
way of beguiling visitors, and the allure of a hotel set on top
of the ocean is even harder to resist. Galle Face Hotel oozes
nostalgia from every brick, and I couldn’t have wished for a
The Cultured Traveller’s lodgings of choice in
Colombo were the iconic and lovingly-restored Galle
Face Hotel, quite possibly one of the most
captivating and magical hotels I’d ever had the
pleasure to reside in.

more enigmatic and hospitable base for
my long weekend in the city.
Unlike many other Asian destinations,
Sri Lanka can genuinely lay claim to
being a year-round holiday destination.
Whilst the average temperature in
Colombo rarely varies +/- 5 degrees, the
city experiences daytime humidity in
excess of 70% all year, rising to around
90% during monsoon season. So, despite
my original intentions to discover the
city from a tuk-tuk to fully absorb the
city’s streets, I was well-advised (by the
hotel) to explore Colombo from the back
of an air-conditioned vehicle with an
experienced local at the wheel. Thank
god I heeded the hotel’s advice… there
was so much to see in Colombo, it
would have been impossible to visit as
much as I did without my trusty driver
and comfy ride. Some of the city’s sights
which you simply must see, include
Independence Square, the sacred Hindu
temple of Sri Ponnambalam Vanesar
Kovil, the old Colombo Dutch Hospital
complex, and the striking red and white
Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque. Also well worth
a visit, and not on the usual tourist trail,
is the stunning 1950s temple of
Sambodhi Chaithya, built atop two
huge, intersecting concrete arches on
Chaithya Road, close to the port, just
past the lighthouse. It’s said to have
been built so high so that the stupa can
be seen by sailors at sea. Climbing its
300 steps is a little tiring in the humidity,
but the view from the top is spectacular
and the detailed Buddhist murals -
which cover the inner walls of the stupa
- are quite beautiful.
The best time to shop in Colombo is in
the morning before it gets hot, or
mid-late afternoon. Either way there is a
tremendous variety of stores, boutiques,
markets and designer shops around the
city, to spend your holiday cash. The 17 th
century colonial architecture of the old
Dutch hospital has been renovated to
provide a magnificent setting for
upmarket dining and shopping, at its
core the renowned Ministry Of Crab,
which has multiple sittings every day to
accommodate the vast numbers of
diners who visit this hugely popular
restaurant to feast on Sri Lankan lagoon
crabs (see TASTE section). Across town,
Arcade Independence Square -
converted from a collection of renovated
white colonial buildings - is a spacious,
COMMEMORATION HALL
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 43

Halfway up the island's west coast and home to around six million people, in recent
years Colombo has emerged as a cosmopolitan metropolis, fusing Asian warmth with
international influences to create a humming city that is positively booming.
44

deluxe mall which houses a variety of restaurants and
boutiques, surrounded by expanses of greenery. This is a
lovely part of the city to spend an afternoon, taking in the
splendid architecture of Commemoration Hall, adjacent to
the arcade, whose design is based on the magnificent royal
audience hall in Kandy, just over 100 km away.
One hundred years ago Sri Lanka’s capital used to be a lush
garden city. But whilst palms and botanical gardens may not
be so plentiful in the Colombo of today, the legacies of its
colonial roots are still very much intact along its boulevards,
many of them delicately shaded, making for delightful early
evening walks. Even oft traffic congested Galle Road -
bordered on one side by large hotel complexes and on the
other by Galle Face Green and the ocean - can make for a
pleasant stroll, before the first cocktail of the night at
Traveller’s Bar at Galle Face Hotel.
It would be an understatement to say Colombo’s restaurant
scene is cosmopolitan. A number of international cuisines are
readily available in the city - including Japanese, French,
Italian and Chinese - with two of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants
located in the Sri Lankan capital. With such a huge choice of
quality eateries - as well as street food, authentic local
restaurants and pavement cafés - you’ll never go hungry in
Colombo. And whilst nightlife was pretty much all but absent
a few years ago in Colombo, some happening nightspots have
recently popped up, creating the beginnings of a late night
party scene, so there’s always somewhere to go if you want to
sip cocktails or have a bit of a boogie until the early hours.
With so much to see, do, buy and savour, the fast-growing,
characterful and energetic city of Colombo provides an ideal
location to spend a long weekend exploring its many facets,
or spend three or four nights at the start or end of your Sri
Lankan adventure uncovering its abundant jewels. Be sure
not to bypass the charismatic Sri Lankan capital next time
you visit its enchanting motherland.

46

STAY
GALLE FACE HOTEL
Built in 1864 and recently restored back to its former glory,
Colombo’s historic Galle Face Hotel, is the first choice of lodgings for
cultured travellers visiting the Sri Lankan capital, and is almost
certainly the city’s best address. Its combination of history, luxury,
modern conveniences, friendly staff, restaurants and bars, together
with an enviable position on the edge of the Indian Ocean, make for
an award winning hospitality combination. Marry this with a range
of deluxe rooms, opulent suites and the hotel’s city centre location,
and you have the makings of an unforgettable stay experience in
Colombo.
Read about The Empress Suite at Galle Face Hotel on page 56 of this issue.
www.gallefacehotel.com
IMAGE COURTESY OF GALLE FACE HOTEL

48

SEE
SRI PONNAMBALAM VANESAR KOVIL
This breathtaking, sacred Hindu temple -
remarkably detailed and highly revered - located in
the centre of Colombo, is unique in that it's
constructed entirely of granite. Devotees visit from
across Sri Lanka to pray here to Lord Shiva.
JAMI UL-ALFAR MOSQUE
One of the oldest mosques in Colombo, this striking
red and white structure - located in the heart of a
busy downtown shopping area - was designed in
1908 by H. L. Saibo Lebbe, and is well worth seeing
in the flesh for its intricate and boldy contrasting
patterns.
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF COLOMBO
The largest museum in the country - which inhabits
a vast, splendid colonial building - was founded in
1877 by Sir William Henry Gregory, the British
Governor of Ceylon at the time, and houses many
of Sri Lanka's national treasures and grand regalia.
VIHARAMAHADEVI PARK
The city's oldest and largest public space, provides
a beautiful and peaceful respite in the heart of the
bustling metropolis, for residents to stroll among
flowering trees, tranquil ponds and historic
monuments.
GANGARAMAYA BUDDHIST TEMPLE
The striking architecture of this unique and
beautiful temple - which incorporates Sri Lankan,
Thai, Indian and Chinese influences - is one of the
most important and revered places of Buddhist
worship in Colombo.
JAMI UL-ALFAR MOSQUE
IMAGE BY NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

TASTE
MINISTRY OF CRAB
Probably Sri Lanka's most famous, and one of
Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, celebrity chef
Dharshan Munidasa’s second eatery (co-owned
with cricketing legends Mahela Jayawardene and
Kumar Sangakkara), is known for celebrating the
country’s famous lagoon crab, which is held in
particularly high regard in Singapore. Ministry of
Crab is the first restaurant in Sri Lanka dedicated
to serving the island’s export quality crabs.
Booking in advance is essential since Ministry of
Crab is always busy.
www.ministryofcrab.com
CAFÉ FRANÇAIS
Nestled on a pretty pedestrian street in the heart
of Colombo's central business district, this superb
all day café, bar, wine cellar and restaurant
venue, serves the best French bistro-style cuisine
in the city, to a backdrop of great music, fine
wines, tasty cocktails and quality champagnes,
delivered by super-professional staff in chic yet
warm and comfortable surroundings.
www.cafefrancaisbypourcel.com
SUGAR BISTRO & WINE BAR
This modern culinary and drinking meeting
place serves hearty dishes from around the
world, complete with a good international wine
list, and is conveniently located at the entrance to
Crescat Boulevard mall, in the heart of Colombo's
shopping district, right across the street from
Galle Face Hotel.
www.sugarcolombo.com/sugar-bistro-wine-bar/
KAEMA SUTRA
Located on the ground floor of Independence
Square Arcade, and co-owned by Sri Lankan
international film actress, Jacqueline Fernandez,
Kaema Sutra serves contemporary Sri Lankan
dishes with a modern take on flavours, in a
beautiful, airy colonial dining room. Try the
restaurant's famous gourmet egg hoppers, and
the boneless goat curry is delectable.
www.kaemasutra.com
THE 1864
This much-celebrated fine dining restaurant and
wine cellar serves exquisite, modern European
cuisine in highly civilised, spacious
surroundings, prepared by executive chef, Adam
Gaunt-Evans. The "Land and Sea" main course of
green curry lamb cutlet and Trincomalee
Barramundi, served with up-country vegetables,
is exceptional.
www.gallefacehotel.com/the-1864.php
NIHONBASHI
Without doubt the best restaurant in Colombo,
and one of Asia's 50 Best, Dharshan Munidasa's
temple to Japanese cuisine, has been open for
more than two decades and will no doubt
continue to attract customers for another 20
years, so consistently high is the quality of the
food. The simplicity of Nihonbashi’s dishes
highlights the excellent ingredients used, eight
different private dining rooms cater for parties of
2 to 22 and eating at Nihonbashi is always an
occasion.
www.nihonbashi.lk
50

IMAGE COURTESY OF MINSTRY OF CRAB

IMAGE COURTESY OF CAFÉ FRANÇAIS
52

SIP
TRAVELLER'S BAR
Grab an armchair, listen to the sound of the waves crashing a few
metres away, feel the sea breeze on your skin, and sip an expertly
prepared cocktail, in the sophisticated surroundings of Galle Face
Hotel's historic Traveller's Bar - one of the best places in Colombo
to start the evening. www.gallefacehotel.com/travellers-bar.php
ON14
Visit modern, funky hotel, OZO Colombo, for a sundowner cocktail
at its hip 14th floor rooftop lounge, ON14, and watch the sun set
over the Indian Ocean from one of the best vantage points in the
city. www.ozohotels.com/colombo-srilanka/
CAFÉ FRANÇAIS
This venue is so good we had to include it in both the Taste and Sip
sections. By night, Café Français morphs into an upscale wine bar,
where - especially at weekends - Colombo's fashionistas and
style-conscious set descend to sip cocktails and gently boogie to
sophisticated tunes provided by a rotating line-up of DJs.
www.cafefrancaisbypourcel.com
41 SUGAR
Located within the site of the Gymkhana Club, which dates back to
colonial times, this stylish rooftop venue boasts an excellent bar,
huge range of spirits, superb wine list and the friendly service is
lightning fast. Perfect for digestifs after dinner or pre-club cocktails.
www.sugarcolombo.com/41sugar/
SILK
By far the best nightclub in town, this extremely popular late night
spot boasts superb music provided by local and international DJs,
seating which can be pre-booked and a state-of-the-art sound
system.
www.sugarcolombo.com/club-silk/

SPEND
BAREFOOT
Everything for sale in Barefoot is about good design and made in Sri Lanka,
either by workers at home or by artists and craftsmen. There are no factories
and no production lines; each Barefoot worker is responsible for the quality of
his or her final product. Barefoot's gorgeous fabrics are bright, colourful and
hardwearing, and weaved by hand in small workshops, most of which are
located in the countryside just outside Colombo. Clothes, bags, household
linen and toys made from Barefoot textiles are perfect to take-home or gift to
loved-ones.
www.barefootceylon.com
ODEL
Containing numerous concessions and selling everything from exotic sarees
and Sri Lankan gifts to designer clothing and kiddies toys, Odel at Alexandra
Place, is a giant, one-stop department store - comprising more than 30,000 sq
ft. of shopping possibilities - including a funky al fresco foodcourt - The
Boulevard - which is a great place to pit stop for a gelato, fresh juice or
caffeine fix to keep your energy levels topped-up to get through the store's
many departments.
www.odel.lk/odel-stores
L'ATELIER TOUCHÉ
Owned and managed by two of Colombo's most fashionable ladies -
Catherine Obrenovic and Heidy Rampinelli - Sri Lanka's newest upscale
women's fashion boutique, L'Atelier Touché retails an inspiring collection
designed to create a contemporary chic and elegant European look.
www.facebook.com/lateliertouche.lk
LAKSALA
Since this state owned gift and souvenir retailer was established in 1982,
Laksala has been retailing a wide and eclectic blend of items at reasonable
prices, ranging from teas and spices to furniture, colourful batik ware and a
large selection of art, crafts and giftware, plus a wide selection of traditional
Sri Lankan gems and jewellery. The Laksala store at Colombo's National
Museum is the biggest branch in the city.
www.laksala.gov.lk
54

IMAGE COURTESY OF BAREFOOT

56
The Empress Suite
Galle Face Hotel

Upper Suite
The Upper House

TAKING LUXURY TO NEW HEIGHTS
Perched on a plateau two thousand metres above sea level facing the plunging gorges and dramatic rock
formations of Oman’s Green Mountain, Alila Jabal Akhdar has been designed to sit in perfect harmony with
its breathtaking location. This unique destination is a sanctuary dedicated to the peace and splendour of the
mountain and the serenity it has to offer.
As temperatures drop the summer haze clears and immaculate blue sky days are followed by crystal clear
nights awash with the brightest stars. Take advantage of the perfect winter climate and make a luxuriously
spacious suite your home from which to explore the beautiful and fascinating interior regions of the Sultanate.
Or simply unwind in the elegant haven of Spa Alila and indulge in a culinary experience which embraces the
best of Omani and international cuisine.
For reservations email: jabalakhdar@alilahotels.com
Like us on www.facebook.com/alilajabalakhdar
www.alilahotels.com

Built during colonial rule when Sri Lanka was known
as Ceylon, Galle Face Hotel has been part of the
nation’s heritage - and at the epicentre of the country's
capital - since 1864. It was then that four British
entrepreneurs saw an opportunity to offer upmarket
lodgings to the travelling elite, who had identified the
island as a tropical destination and were visiting in
steadily increasing numbers, especially from Europe.
The hotel started its life as a much smaller Dutch villa
called Galle Face House, borrowing its name from the
vast green along the coast in front of it, which back
then included a racecourse and promenade. Built one
section at a time over the next thirty years as land
became available, GFH (as it is affectionately known by
many) was for several years the oldest hotel east of
Suez. Colombo's hospitality landmark predates
Bangkok's Mandarin Oriental built in 1876, Mumbai's
Taj Mahal built in 1903, Singapore's Raffles built in
1910 and Hong Kong's Peninsula built in 1928. In fact,
Galle Face Hotel was operational almost a quarter of a
century before Conrad Hilton was even born.
More than one and a half centuries after débuting on
Colombo's Indian Ocean seafront, Sri Lanka's
hospitality grande dame is positively thriving - after a
major refurb - under the expert stewardship of British
General Manager, Antony Paton. The delicate and
thoughtful restoration program took more than five
years to complete, but was very much worth the wait,
bringing into the 21 st century 72 rooms and suites in
the hotel's north wing, bars and restaurants, Galle
Face’s imposing lobby, plus two beautiful ballrooms, all
of which were overhauled and sensitively returned to
their original architectural grandeur, at the same time
introducing contemporary conveniences and modern
technologies whilst not compromising the unique feel
and history of the building. A new ocean-view
25-metre executive lounge was also added - The Long
Room - for VIP and suite guests. Overall, the tenderly
executed renovation gave birth to a completely
refreshed stay experience, reignited a bygone era,
rejuvenated a national monument and introduced an
iconic hotel to a whole new generation of cultured
travellers. It's rare to find such a charming place to
THE GALLE FACE HOTEL IN 1886 THE GALLE FACE HOTEL IN 2016
rest your head, which exudes class, quality, warmth
and calm in one uniquely characterful building. Service
is delivered with genuine kindness and grace, and the
staff repeatedly go out of their way - obviously proud
of their historic workplace - to ensure that guests have
a memorable stay and leave with fond memories.
It takes a good day or so - after checking-in - to settle
into the rhythm of Galle Face Hotel, but once you’re in
the swing of things it’s very hard to tear yourself away,
and I can understand why so many visitors became
long-stay guests during the hotel’s fascinating past.
Numerous renowned authors found Galle Face to be an
inspiring and tranquil place to pen their thoughts,
including Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Mark Twain and Anton
Chekhov. Stars of the glorious celluloid era - including
Alec Guinness, Ursula Andress and Laurence Olivier,
and more recently Scarlett Johansson - have all found
peace within the walls of GFH away from their hectic
globetrotting lifestyles. Somewhat unsurprisingly,
royalty and statesmen from all over the world have also
stayed, including Indira Gandhi, Prince Philip - Duke of
Edinburgh, Emperor Hirohito of Japan and Richard
Nixon. In fact, Prince Philip’s first car - a 1935 model
Standard Nine - now enjoys pride of place in the hotel’s
in-house museum, which is a delightful place to while
away an hour learning about Galle Face’s riveting
history.
Possibly the largest hotel suite in Sri Lanka, The
Empress Suite, is named after the last French Empress,
Eugénie de Montijo, as she became known in France.
Eugénie first met her future husband, President
Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte, at a reception at the Elysée
Palace. On 29 January 1853, Eugénie married Emperor
Napoléon III of France in a civil ceremony at the
Tuileries Palace, followed by a much grander affair the
next day at France's most important cathedral, Notre
Dame. It was Eugénie - as Empress of France - who
formally inaugurated the Suez Canal in 1859, which
opened a gateway to travellers from Europe visiting
Asia. Some years later, when she was in her eighties,
the Empress sent word to Sir Thomas Lipton - the
world famous tea merchant - that she wished to visit
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 59

60

Ceylon. Lipton made all necessary
arrangements for Her Majesty, who was
accommodated in special apartments at
Galle Face Hotel. The Empress and her
entourage remained in residence for seven
weeks. Given the palatial surroundings of
The Empress Suite it’s not hard to see why
she stayed so long. A majestic dining area -
at the centre of which two glittering crystal
chandeliers hang over a huge oval marble
table - is separated from the regal lounge by
two pairs of stately pillars. Tall doors from
the lounge open out onto a vast terrace -
facing Galle Face Green - large enough to
host cocktails for 100 guests and occupying
the entire roof of the hotel’s charismatic
carriage porch underneath, now beautifully
restored and ready to welcome vehicles
arriving for another 150 years. The suite
comprises three, huge high-ceilinged
bedrooms, sprawling balustraded balconies,
oversized bathrooms and a half-kitchen
accessed from the hall outside, so the
cosseted inhabitants are not disturbed
when room service is delivered. The master
bath is a beautifully crafted exercise in chic,
contemporary design - all Italian marble,
matt walls, black wooden floors and delicate
lighting - skillfully juxtaposing the suite’s
adjacent grand salon with a dash of slick,
modern living: the walk-in shower big
enough for four, the freestanding bath a
couple’s delight and the marble sink
counter stretching to more than three
metres. Lavish, damask curtains draping
down from the ceilings abound at every
turn. The armchairs in the lounge are so
deep you sit into them rather than on them.
Cushions are so plentiful and pillows so
plush that once seated you may never get
up. So deluxe is the level of comfort, that
for the best part of a day and night I found
it nigh on impossible to leave the suite,
ordering both lunch and dinner to be
delivered, and curling-up on the sofa when
darkness fell, utterly oblivious to the noise
of the tuk-tuks clamoring outside. I could
have stayed for days. I’m envious that
Empress Eugénie got to stay for seven
weeks.
Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in The Empress
Suite in February 2016.
In April and May 2016 the average nightly rate
for the three-bedroom Empress Suite is USD
3,500 inclusive of breakfast, airport transfers
and taxes.
www.gallefacehotel.com

62

CULTUREDCHAT
WITH
BRIAN CLIVAZ
BRIAN CLIVAZ IS A WELL-KNOWN FIGURE IN THE HOTEL AND RESTAURANT
WORLD. HIS CAREER BEGAN IN THE KITCHENS OF THE DORCHESTER,
UNDER THE TUTELAGE OF ANTON MOSIMANN. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
CHATTED WITH CLIVAZ ON THE EVE OF THE OPENING OF HIS NEW
DEVONSHIRE CLUB IN THE CITY OF LONDON
What lured you into a career in the catering and
hospitality industry?
Speaking to my father about a career, he told me that
he didn’t mind what I did, as long as I didn’t go into
catering - and I always did what my father told me!
Was there a lot of cooking in the Clivaz
household when you were young?
My mother was an excellent cook. She bought the
Sophia Loren cookbook and made almost every
recipe in it. As my father worked for British Airways,
my parents used to travel a lot, and my mother was
always coming back with recipes from far off lands.
She was one of the first to cook pizza from scratch
and we children were always asked to help with the
cooking, which I loved.
Tell us about your first catering job.
Having ignored my father’s advice, I entered the
catering world. He had said that if I was to work in
catering, I would have to start at the bottom as an
apprentice chef. The maître chef at the Dorchester
was a fellow Swiss friend, Eugene Kauffler, so I got a
job there. On my first day I was so excited. It was
daunting joining a kitchen with 100 other chefs but so
thrilling - and I’ve never regretted it.
What was your experience of working with
Anton Mosimann and would you care to share
an anecdote?
Anton Mosimann was among the first of the new
wave of chefs, along with Michel Guérard and Roger
Vergé, to develop a new lighter concept of cooking.
He had worked in Japan and brought their work
methods to his kitchen, including a calmness and
intelligence.
When Anton Mosimann approached the stove to
cook, everybody stopped what they were doing to
watch the master at work. If he asked for a whisk,
there was a long line of chefs waiting to hand it to
him, and as they passed the whisk from one to the
other, each chef would polish the whisk, so that when
it eventually reached him it was shinier than new.
I remember an incident one day we were cooking a
banquet for Her Royal Highness The Princess
Margaret. After the fish course, the maître d’ shouted
at Mr Mosimann that HRH was waiting: Mosimann
calmly turned to him and said, “even princesses have
to wait for perfection”.
How would you say that Mosimann's skills as a
chef compare to those of today's celebrity
chefs?
Celebrity chefs have their place in the media but
there are few great chefs in any generation. Mosimann
is without doubt one of the greatest chefs in the
world today, so there is no comparison.
What promoted your move to Paris after your
stint at the Dorchester?
I moved to Paris because experience abroad is
essential, but I also wanted to prove to myself that I

Pierre Koffman
Eileen Atkins
Mick Jagger
The Beatles
Nigel Havers
Dennis Potter
Sienna Miller
Peter Blake
Marco Pierre White
Sam Smith
Eartha Kit
Joe Orton Peter Cook
Imelda Staunton
Francis Bacon
Beryl Cook
Lucien Freud
Laurence Olivier
Janis Joplin
Coco
Frankie Howard
Chanel
Ella Fitzgerald
Diana
General de Gualle
Stephen Fry
Marianne Faithfull
Kenneth Halliwell
Dudley Moore
Danny La Rue
Elton Joh
Paloma Faith
Edward Heath
Cleo Laine
Judi Dench
Frank Sinatra
A SoHo Institution
Since 1927
Restaurant & Club Privé
Bar, Restaurant
& Club Privé
L’ Escargot
Depuis 1927
•
48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF
Telephone 020 7494 1318 www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk
Monday to Sunday:
All day until 1am

could do the same work in a foreign country using a
foreign language. My ambition was to become a
receptionist at a five star hotel in Paris and I was
delighted when eventually the Le Meurice hotel took
me on in that role. I absolutely loved working in Paris
and my love for Paris today is as strong as ever.
How did working in France contribute to your
career?
I worked very hard in Paris, holding down two jobs at
once, and even though it was quite exhausting I
proved to myself that I had stamina. The most
important event in Paris was when I served HM King
Hussein of Jordan at the Plaza Athénée. I had met him
during my time at The Dorchester, but in Paris I spoke
to him much more frequently. One afternoon he said
to me “we have all been given roles to perform in this
life, but we must remember that on the day of
judgement, in the eyes of God, we are all equal”. I
have always kept that with me.
The London members club scene has exploded
in the past few decades. Did you see this
coming?
No, I had no idea that
the private club scene
would explode in the
way it has. It is highly
competitive nowadays -
in a way that it never
MY MOTHER WAS AN
EXCELLENT COOK. SHE
BOUGHT THE SOPHIA LOREN
COOKBOOK AND MADE
ALMOST EVERY RECIPE IN IT
was - however I believe it still has a long way to go.
How did you get involved in Home House?
My plans to further develop Simpson’s-in-the-Strand,
where I was MD, were rejected by our owners, The
Savoy, and as a result I decided to do something else.
A new private club seemed a good idea - somewhere
grand like The Travellers, with great rooms and
excellent food - but at the same time somewhere
guests in T-shirts and (clean) jeans could come. I
found Home House by chance while two of my chess
friends, Tony Buzan and Raymond Keene, were
lunching with Christopher Portman who proceeded to
tell me about an empty building he owned. After
much angst, that building became a private club. As
for the dress code, we only had one rule, “nudity
discouraged”!
Would you say that London is where the private
members club was born?
Yes, certainly - the oldest clubs in the world are in
London, they started as coffee houses. White’s,
Brooks’s, and Boodle’s are the oldest. Whilst clubs are
opening up all over the world, some countries still find
the concept bizarre.
Under your
stewardship as its MD,
The Arts Club grew
into one of London's
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 65

most successful members clubs. How did you
achieve this?
I was determined that The Arts Club, founded by Lord
Leighton and Charles Dickens, would not die. Its
closure was imminent when I forced my way in. I was
doggedly determined that it would not fail. By stealth,
I managed to change the constitution and bring in
new investors and partners. Arjun Waney of Zuma,
Roka and La Petite Maison, agreed to invest and to
bring his experienced kitchen brigade; and Gary
Landesberg, a property magnet, brought his
considerable financial skills and became Chairman.
The impetus of these partners was the catalyst for
rapid change. Together we refurbished and
relaunched the club - it became a Mayfair club for the
international arts community.
L'Escargot a couple of years ago. What did
you both see in this London dining
institution?
We heard whispers that L’Escargot, London’s
oldest French restaurant, was for sale and that a
Russian group were interested to turn it into a
Russian restaurant. Laurence had just come back
to the UK for retirement - after having lived in New
York - and talking over lunch, we both agreed that
he was too young to retire and that he had another
restaurant in him. I’m a restaurant romantic and
was keen for this establishment to live on. It pains
me to see Chez Victor as a pizzeria, and A L’Ecu
de France a shoe shop! We knew we could revive
its fortunes - and working in Soho was a real draw
for us.
What would you say are the most important
ingredients to running a vibrant members club
in London?
The most important element is the building: it has to
have character, as well as the infrastructure to support
a vibrant club. Secondly, the Founding Members play
a key role as they give the club its backbone and
atmosphere.
Together with
business partner
Laurence Isaacson,
you took over
WHILST MEMBERS CLUBS
ARE OPENING UP ALL OVER
THE WORLD, SOME
COUNTRIES STILL FIND THE
CONCEPT BIZARRE
L'Escargot opened in 1927 and was the first
restaurant in the UK to serve fresh snails.
Who supplies the restaurant's snails today
and how do you like yours served?
Our snails are reared at Credenhill Farm in
Hereford. Richard Fishbourne, the owner, is
passionate about his snails and ensures they are
reared in a natural,
organic
environment. They
also supply Heston
Blumenthal’s The Fat
Duck of snail
66 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016
L'ESCARGOT
DEVONSH

porridge fame. Personally I love them served
traditionally with garlic and parsley, and, of course,
ours are the best!
thing to turn them into a club. We have quite an
eclectic mix of members from Sam Smith and Tom
Hardy, to Barbara Windsor and Paloma Faith.
We understand that dogs are welcome at
L'Escargot. Is there a special menu for pooches
and what's your dog's favourite meal?
In every establishment I have worked in, dogs have
been welcome. I cannot understand why more places
do not welcome them, not least since they are
generally better behaved than many customers! Doris
loves pigs ears, and once I even gave her pigs nose
with parsley sauce as a special treat!
What is your favourite hotel in the world and
why?
I love the Oberoi Group. Every Oberoi I have stayed in
has been magnificent. They are unparalleled in India,
but Dubai and Mauritius are fantastic too. Otherwise
it has to be Hôtel Costes in Paris: naughty, arrogant,
decadent and above all else, sexy.
What prompted you to open Upstairs - the
members club above L'Escargot - and what
type of clientele
does it attract?
We had a number of
smaller rooms above
the restaurant and it
seemed the natural
UPSTAIRS HAS QUITE AN
ECLECTIC MIX OF MEMBERS
FROM SAM SMITH AND TOM
HARDY, TO BARBARA
WINDSOR AND PALOMA FAITH
Who has been the most perfectly-behaved
celebrity guest in one of your clubs or
restaurants?
David Beckham is always an absolute gentleman with
the staff, fellow members and guests, but the award
has to go by a whisker to Prince Harry.
Tell us about your new private members' club,
the Devonshire Club, due to open shortly in the
City of London?
Devonshire Club is due to open mid-June this year, so
we have been quite frantic sorting everything. It’s
about time the City treated itself to a proper Mayfair
club. The City of London has changed so much over
the last few years and it’s now a vibrant 7-day
environment. As the East End has become so
eclectically charged, this has begun to pour into the
City, and in the next few years you will see a massive
enhancement of the offerings. Devonshire Club will be
part of that catalyst for change. Our club has 68
bedrooms, a large
brasserie, private dining
rooms, a gym and a
beauty salon, plus a
wonderful hedged
garden.
IRE CLUB
UPSTAIRS

RELAXED
& Charming
MEETING PLACE FOR VIENNESE COSMOPOLITANS
AND COSMOPOLITANS IN VIENNA
Enjoy newly-interpreted, seasonal Brasserie Classics
and international premium cocktails.
FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE VISIT RESTAURANT-THEBANK.COM
#THEBANKVIENNA

What will make Devonshire Club different
to the multitude of other members clubs
in London?
Well, the location for a start. I remember people
telling me that Home House was in the wrong
location as it was North of Oxford Street - now
look at Mary-le-Bone! Devonshire Club will be
super chic, as we have designed everything with
elegant women in mind. It’s important,
especially in the City, that women feel
comfortable and are treated equally without
being patronised. Naturally, we will be very
business friendly, but we will not accept a sea of
lap-tops - what I call “lap-toppery” will be
banned. I am so excited about the new club -
we have a great team and we will deliver a truly
outstanding product.
Do you ever find it tiring hosting and
entertaining guests and customers?
It is one of the greatest joys and pleasures in my
life to be able to meet so many fascinating
people and to be allowed into their worlds. I
LOVE hosting and always try to put other
people first. Of course
it can be frustrating if I
want to go home early
(I mean 9pm!) and just
as I’m about to leave
someone walks in who
I haven’t seen for ages
and I have to stay with
them for an hour or so
- but it is worth it. The
greatest host in
London is Jeremy King, from the Wolseley
Group. I admire him so much - his bonhomie is
legendary. I have three other friends who are
also great hosts: David Morgan-Hewitt at The
Goring Hotel; Didier Garnier at Le Colombier,
and Jason Phillips at Wiltons. We all love our
job - so hosting is a real privilege. It is important
that the front of house team receive
recognition: chefs earn much of the limelight,
but we need people to serve, and service must
be seen as an art to be appreciated.
Where is your favourite place to vacation
and do you actually switch off when
you're away?
My favourite place to switch off is in my garden.
I am lucky to have a large garden in London
which for the past 25 years I have tended
organically. I encourage wildlife and many birds
visit. Most recently, I saw a pair of jays, some
wood peckers and a tiny wren; and every day
the same robin comes to visit. Otherwise, give
me a long stretch of beach and golden sand
anywhere in the Indian Ocean.
DEVONSHIRE CLUB WILL
BE SUPER CHIC, AS WE HAVE
DESIGNED EVERYTHING
WITH ELEGANT WOMEN
IN MIND
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 69

In a world where more and more products are becoming
mass produced, pre-programmed and impersonal, it's
refreshing to be able to report about an airline (of all
things) which is warm, friendly and treats its customers
like individuals rather than a frequent flyer number. The
airline is SriLankan and I can honestly say that my
experience to date, of the nation's flag carrier, has been
nothing less than positive, entirely reminiscent of visiting
the charming country itself. A place of multiple
experiences, sights, sounds, tastes and colours, both Sri
Lanka and its kind natives, greet tourists visiting their
island in such a genuine and generous fashion, that few
holiday destinations in the Asia Pacific region can compete
with either the quality of the welcome or value for money.
The national airline echoes the same. Upon boarding,
Air Lanka was set up by the Sri Lankan government in
1979 following the demise of Air Ceylon in 1978. Initially
Air Lanka operated two Boeing 707 jets leased from
Singapore Airlines. The 80's saw the airline increase its
number of destinations and add to its fleet, until 1992
when Air Lanka purchased its first Airbus A320 aircraft
and served 26 destinations. In 1998 the airline was
part-privatised to Emirates, when the Dubai-based airline
and the Sri Lankan government signed a ten-year
partnership, at the same time abandoning the Air Lanka
brand and launching SriLankan. There are few national
carriers which have not undergone a tempestuous period
of operation, in line with their homeland's fortunes, and
in its relatively short history SriLankan has been greatly
affected by both environmental disasters and acts of
passengers are greeted by glowing stewardesses, keen to
assist any way they can, elegantly-attired in embroidered
peacock saris of bright turquoise, illustrating the country's
culture and giving you a taste of Sri Lanka before you even
take off. I have flown on many a premium carrier and paid
an awful lot more, only to be greeted by sour-faced cabin
crew who can't even be bothered to look at my boarding
pass, let alone my seat number, when stepping onto a
plane. Things couldn't be more different on SriLankan,
and it’s for this reason I have chosen this airline over
premium carriers flying the same route when travelling to
Colombo on four different occasions in the past two
years. Yes, SriLankan is that good, and I'm happy to have
this opportunity to now review the airline in the
appropriate forum, here in Boarding Pass.
terrorism. A SARS outbreak, the Indian Ocean earthquake
of 2004, a protracted civil war, and a terrorist attack at
Bandaranaike airport in Colombo (the airline's hub) -
which wrote off half of the airline's fleet, completely
destroying four planes - all took their toll on SriLankan. In
2007 SriLankan’s CEO even had his work permit cancelled
by the Sri Lankan government, for refusing to bump 35
passengers off an over-booked flight to make space for
then President Rajapaksa and his staff. Consequently,
Emirates sold its 43.63% stake in the airline - thus ending
in 2010 the decade-long affiliation between the two
airlines - and SriLankan is now wholly government owned
and run. Whilst this may not have resulted in SriLankan
growing as quickly as it inevitably would have had the
airline still been in partnership with the Middle Eastern
70 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

airline powerhouse, SriLankan has taken delivery of some
very swish new Airbus A330-300 jets, laden with a range
of features which tastefully blend modern air travel with
the warmth of its homeland. Although I have to say that
even when travelling on an older plane, you don't feel like
you're completely missing out on the best SrILankan
inflight experience, because the cabin crew is so helpful,
calm and - most importantly - they smile.
My Colombo-Doha SrILankan business class experience
began when I was dropped off at the Silk Route lounge at
Bandaranaike Airport. Silk Route is a completely separate
check-in facility - isolated from the main airport terminal -
where SriLankan's business class passengers can avail
themselves of quiet, private check-in facilities, away from
the hectic departures hall. A little assistance is rarely
unwelcome when traversing the world's busiest airports,
On board, SriLankan’s A330-300 aircraft feature
reverse herringbone seats in a 1-2-1 configuration in
business, with a total of 28 seats in 7 rows. Whilst not a
fan of sitting at an angle to the window, the good thing
about this layout is that every seat has direct aisle
access, and you can’t really see the person seated next to
you even if you’re seated in the center. Seats were fully
flat beds with plenty of pillows, cushions and cubby holes
for my odds and ends, and a glass of chilled French
champagne served with warmed cashews set the tone
for the super comfortable flight ahead, none of which I
could fault, with even the cute, orange Crabtree & Evelyn
amenity kit exceedingly usable. Dinner was tasty and
moreish, my Sri Lankan style prawn curry served with all
the trimmings, quite delicious, washed down with a
freshly brewed Ceylon tea - selected from a
comprehensive on-board range which included
and until arriving in Doha, the last time I touched my
luggage was just before the bell-boy collected it from my
Colombo hotel room to leave for Bandaranaike airport.
Non SriLankan business class passengers can buy the Silk
Route service for USD 50. It would have been worth every
penny should I have had to pay
(www.airport.lk/silk_route/silk_route.php).
After being checked-in, I was escorted through the
chaotic departures hall, personally fast-tracked through
immigration and deposited in the Serendib Lounge.
Whilst certainly not the flashiest I'd frequented, the staff
literally couldn't do enough for me, and a rather good
complimentary 20-minute holistic Ayurvedic neck and
shoulder massage calmed me nicely in preparation for
flying.
everything from Earl Grey to Jasmine and Ginger Ceylon.
The service throughout was second to none and this is
where the airline really stands out. There are no robots
on SriLankan, just personable stewardesses who waft up
and down the aisles attending to the needs of
passengers without a hint of disdain or boredom. Their
cheerful disposition really is a flying revelation and
reason alone to fly SriLankan. In my book, genuine
on-board hospitality trumps pretty much every in-flight
gimmick, hands down, except flying on Concorde.
www.srilankan.com
Nicholas Chrisostomou flew SriLankan from Colombo to
Doha on 10 February 2016.

SKY BRIEF
LASER ATTACKS ON AIRCRAFT In February 2016 Virgin Atlantic
flight VS025, bound for New York, was forced to return to Heathrow airport after a
laser was shone at its cockpit during take-off and the co-pilot suffered ill-effects.
The flight was grounded overnight and the 252 passengers put up in hotels. This is
just one of thousands of laser-related incidents happening in the world's skies
every year. Aircraft are increasingly being attacked with lasers at an alarming rate
- and with lasers of greater strength - putting numerous airliners, their crew and all
the passengers on board these flights at huge risk. Almost 9,000 laser-related
incidents, across the UK alone, were reported to the UK Civil Aviation Authority
during the five years to June 2015, prompting repeated calls to the UK government
to classify lasers as offensive weapons. This would give police more power to
arrest people for possessing lasers, unless they are owned for good reason.
BA IS THE UK'S TOP BRAND The UK's national flag carrier, British
Airways, has topped the annual fight of the nation's top brands, to win the battle
of British brands, for the third consecutive year. The airline retained the title of the
UK’s leading consumer superbrand, while some of the country's most historic and
well-known household names - including M&S, Heinz and Cadbury - dropped out
QATAR'S LONGEST FLIGHT Premium Gulf carrier, Qatar Airways, will
launch non-stop flights from its hub at Hamad International Airport in Doha direct
to Auckland in New Zealand and Santiago in Chile, giving the airline the longest
and second longest flights in the world. Auckland is approximately 9,030 miles
from Doha, which would mean a flying time of around 18 hours and 30 minutes.
of the top of the elite grouping. Richard Branson's airline, Virgin Atlantic, was a
new entry in the top twenty most popular big brands in the 2016 list.
www.ba.com
ISTANBUL NEW AIRPORT The only city in the world to occupy two
continents - straddling the Bosphorus strait between the Sea of Marmara and the
Black Sea - is building a massive new aerodrome on the coast in the European
side of Istanbul, 35 km outside Turkey's largest metropolis. When it is completed
in 2028, Istanbul New Airport will be capable of handling 200 million passengers
Doha to Santiago is a distance of 8,950 miles, making a direct flight roughly 5 - 10
minutes shorter. Qatar Airways plans to use Boeing 777-200LR aircraft on the two
new routes. www.qatarairways.com
NEW CONCOURSE D AT DXB The world's busiest airport just got
bigger. At the end of February 2016, DXB opened Concourse D, boosting the
capacity of Dubai International Airport to 90 million passengers per year. Part of a
USD 1.2 billion investment to enhance the airport's capacity and services,
Concourse D is linked to freshly-renovated Terminal 1 by an airport train, and has
annually. The first of the new airport's four stages, phase 1A, is scheduled for
completion at the end of 2018 and will boast the world’s largest terminal under
one roof, with a floor area of 1 million m 2 and the capacity to handle 90 million
passengers each year.
www.nordicarch.com/istanbul-new-airport
21 stands of which four can accommodate the double-decker Airbus A380
superjumbo. For passengers, the new concourse features wellbeing concepts Be
Relax spa and SnoozeCube, plus five new airline lounges, a new Al Majlis lounge,
two Dubai International Hotel lounges, a Marhaba VIP lounge and 175 retail shops.
www.dubaiairports.ae
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 73

74

No Shoes Required
With its clear blue waters and endless pristine beach, Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi
on Saadiyat Island is the ultimate retreat back to nature, seamlessly blending
five-star eco-luxury with a laid-back ethos, as Ashlee Starratt discovered.

F
or the barefoot wanderer, Saadiyat Island is a
world apart. As Abu Dhabi’s flagship
development, its translation from Arabic
means ‘happiness’ and it’s where those seeking
refuge and relaxation in opulent surroundings
come home to roost. Nestled on the outskirts of the city’s
cluster of islands, 500 metres off the coast, it’s an hour’s drive
from Dubai and twenty minutes from Abu Dhabi Airport -
making it one of the GCC’s more accessible weekend retreats.
An oasis firmly rooted in nature and its preservation, its 27
km 2 are home to critically endangered hawksbill turtles.
Each year they follow the tides back to nesting grounds
along its powdered sands. Far out past the crashing breakers,
bottlenose dolphins roam the waters along their migratory
routes and can be spotted among the waves by early risers
keen for a sunrise beach walk. Coastal birds and rhim
gazelles mark their habitat on Saadiyat, while exotic shells
dot the water’s edge.
Boasting distinct cultural, beach and marina districts,
along with a 15,400 visitor centre, the island is a secluded
haven for sun-soaked tourists and locals craving a breezy
escape from the mile-a-minute pace of UAE’s big cities.
My home for the weekend, Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel
and Villas, perches like a jewel along an unspoiled stretch
of coastline. Its secluded environs are rich with foliage,
yet the sea can’t help but show her face, offering up
glittering glimpses of azure water on the approach to the
hotel.
Neighbouring the Saadiyat Island Golf Club and with 306
luxuriously appointed rooms, suites and villas, the resort is
a testament to the philosophy of the Park Hyatt brand.
Designed with the discerning traveller in mind, Park Hyatt
is the hotel group’s premium offering when it comes to
elite service, lavish décor and five-star culinary journeys.
It’s just past noon when I arrive, and after a breezy
check-in I’m whisked away in a club car to one of their
cloistered garden view villas. The pace of life on the resort
is one of refined beachy leisure. I drink in my surroundings
on the short ride to my lodgings. There’s a couple taking
swings at the tennis court, while another strolls
76 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

hand-in-hand in bathing suits and flip-flops headed in the
direction of the Beach House – the resort’s waterfront
restaurant and cocktail bar.
Flooded with natural light, the décor of my villa sanctuary is
freshly modern, dotted with splashes of colour in its
furnishings, while dark wood accents anchor it firmly back
to nature. The feng shui here is on-point, with all the energy,
breeze and light flowing towards the outdoor terrace and its
mosaic plunge-pool and loungers. Sliding glass doors open
off both the living room and master bedroom, while oriental
divider screens in the bedroom, master bathroom and lounge
area offer privacy at a moment’s touch.
Worth noting is how all rooms are designed with
sustainability in mind. Conceptualized by New York
architects Perkins Eastman and outfitted by Wilson
Associates interior design, the open-plan layouts are
fashioned to allow in as much natural light as possible
and are positioned in the direction of the breeze,
conserving energy and minimizing the need for continuous
electricity or A/C.
With my suitcase dropped off I’m blissfully left alone in my
element. Exhausted after a long week at work and an early
morning flight I quickly change into my bikini (which I
lived in for the next 48 hours), mosey my way into the
villa’s kitchen and pop a bottle of bubbly. Minutes later I’m
neck-deep in the private pool, unplugging from the world
around me with a crumpled paperback novel balanced
carefully in hand.
Opting for a quiet night in before a big day of beaching,
dinner is room service - a sumptuous butter chicken curry
with piping hot naan bread and a fiery Indonesian nasi
goreng with prawns and beef satay. Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi
prides itself on its attention to wellness, and in addition to
comfort food selections, also offers a heart-healthy menu
with dozens of fresh, locally-sourced items to tease your
palate. After dinner and a quick rinse in the marbled
rain-shower followed by a long spell in the deep soaker tub
(a G&T within reach), it’s lights out in the plush confines of
the king-sized bed.
Dawn breaks early and the tides wait for no one, so I’m up

78

with the sun and off to the Beach House for brekkie. Wandering through the early-morning grounds I pass the hotel’s two
large infinity pools, whose poolside cabanas will be filled with bronzed sun-worshippers before the clock strikes noon.
Though the resort seems vast, it’s really just a five-minute walk from the villa to the sandy beach. Palm trees stand sentinel
along the length of the sprawling pool courtyard and every sightline arrows down to the blue coastal horizon.
The Beach House is exactly as its name suggests and is a plush spot to catch the patio breeze coming off the ocean while
enjoying light, fresh fare (the eggs Benedict with smoked salmon is a must). Or, as the sun goes down head up to their
roof-deck, watch the moon rise over the waves and sip sundowners.
It’s here where the shoes come off, since the distance from the boardwalk to the beach is mere steps from the restaurant. One
of the highlights of Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi is its commitment to environmental conservation. The grassy sand adjacent to the
boardwalk is off-limits to guests during hatching season, and turtle nests are cordoned off for protection. It’s also one of the
area’s few five-star resorts to refrain from water-sports activities in deference to the dolphin population offshore. The hotel
has an on-site marine biologist and guests are encouraged to report any sightings. Dolphin-watching excursions can be
arranged through the concierge via an outside adventure operator. I spend the morning lounging on the beach, dipping my
toes in the surf and remembering to slow down and breathe deep the fresh salt air.

Guests to Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi would be remiss to pass up
a toe-curling treatment at its Atarmia Spa and mine’s booked
for 1:00 pm on the dot. Housing the resort’s fitness facility
and a private outdoor pool for spa guests, its cool corridors
are lined with river-rock and hence the ambiance is like a
secluded grotto. I’m treated to a luxe 60-minute European
Deep-Cleanse Facial using Kerstin Florian products that
leave my skin feeling plump, fresh and rehydrated.
Sunset cocktails are in order back at Beach House, where the
fiery ball of the setting sun is as transfixing as their Passion
Sangrias. Dinner is served at the unabashedly exquisite Park
Bar & Grill where you can sit outside under the night
breeze, or indoors for a bit of open kitchen theatre. We dined
on sumptuous lobster and crab cannelloni, roasted John
Dory with white beans, chorizo and garlic confit, and a filet
of sheri with chargrilled king prawns. A strawberry vacherin
and pineapple tarte tatin made for a sweet ending, with
Aperol spritzers on the upstairs terrace the perfect nightcap.
Packing for the airport the next day I searched in vain for
my shoes, realizing I’d left them on the beach as a
subconscious offering to the sand. My heels are roughened and
my polish chipped from the powder-fine granules. My hair still
carried the scent of the salty air. All were reminders of a
weekend spent in paradise where time, truly, stands still.
www.abudhabi.park.hyatt.com
All images courtesy of Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & Villas
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 81

Alex Benasuli visited a
new spa retreat in North
India which has redefined
the benchmark for luxury
wellness
82

Since the 1960s, westerners have been flocking to India for spiritual growth and well-being. As the birthplace of
both yoga and Ayurveda thousands of years ago, India could effectively be regarded as one of the originators of
alternative remedies, that treat physical maladies in sync with emotional and spiritual considerations. Compared
to the 1960s and 70s when accommodation offerings were largely basic and a little too hippy, contemporary India
now offers wellness and luxury spa experiences on a par with the best in the world. What is more, when Ayurveda
and yoga are combined with the influences of Hinduism and Buddhism, an Indian experience feels more authentic,
sacred and personal, and therefore distinct to many global counterparts. Against this backdrop, there is a new
addition to the Indian luxury spa market. Set in the cool, verdant and hilly north of India, Vana Malsi Estate has
raised the bar for the spa junky travellers of the world, looking for an authentic experience in a natural setting,
without compromising luxury and pampering. There is something about choosing India for a retreat, which
always feels like returning to the spiritual mothership. Vana has made this experience even more special.

Vana is Sanskrit for forest. The story goes that, Mr.
Veer Singh, founder of Vana, had been
contemplating for some time about what do with a
large tract of forested family land on the outskirts of
Dehradun, in the foothills of the Himalayas north of New
Delhi. The trees spoke to him and Vana Malsi Estate was
born. The Sal trees and semi tropical forests that surround
Vana are just a part of what makes it a spiritual and
nurturing destination. Until recently, Vana existed a little
below travellers’ wellness retreat radar, but it’s now well on
the way to becoming the best of its kind in the world. One of
the first guests I met at Vana had originally planned to stay
for two weeks, but eventually extended his stay to a full
month. He had given up smoking, drinking and sugar, and
in the process lost more than fifteen kilos of excess body
weight, all culminating in a significant, life-changing
experience. In fact many guests extend their stays, and many
of us are already planning our return visits, such is the allure
of this sublime setting. Put simply, Vana has redefined the
benchmark for luxury wellness and it is exciting to partake
in an experience that feels distinctly unique.
Upon arrival, guests are assigned a wellness consultant
doctor and given a pair of white kurtas (Indian pyjamas).
Although not mandatory, everyone wears the kurtas for the
duration of their stay, with freshly laundered kurtas
delivered daily to every room. During the colder months,
scarves and soft woolen capes are distributed to help ward
off the mild evening chill. There is something incredibly
liberating about not having to think about what to wear each
day, whereby all guests appear as equals, without the bling
or labels that usually set them apart. Above all, the kurtas
84 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

are incredibly comfortable, and if Vana is your only
destination in India you can also pack very light. The staff
also wear variations of the kurta. The sight of the human
form clad in white and shades of light earth tones, adds to
the serenity and harmony that pervade every facet of this
property.
At its core, Vana is a place of physical and spiritual healing.
At your initial one-to-one wellness consultation - after the
standard questions about physical health, emotional
wellbeing, sleep and nutrition are addressed - a bespoke
program is compiled according to each person’s individual
needs. There are two primary comprehensive healing
approaches at Vana, and these are further complimented by
an extensive offering of alternative treatments - some of
which are more familiar to the average guest and some less
so. India and wellness are synonymous with Ayurveda. At
Vana, Ayurvedic treatments and cuisine are at the heart of
the resort experience. For the uninitiated, Ayurveda is a
5000-year old system of natural healing that originated in
the Vedic culture of India. In Sanskrit, Ayur means life and
Veda means science, and as the science of life, Ayurveda
seeks to explain and heal the imbalances that occur during
integration of body, mind and spirit. In Ayurveda, human
beings are composed of three main energy types (doshas),
and one of these doshas is usually dominant, be it Pitta
(fire), Vata (air) or Kapha (earth). Ayurveda believes that
most physical and emotional ailments can be traced to an
imbalance of the doshas. Therefore, Ayurvedic medicine is
about identifying which dosha is dominant, which are not in
balance, and then prescribing massage, aromatherapy, herbs
and nutritional suggestions, as well as meditation and

music, to rebalance and heal. It is an effective way to treat
common ailments such as digestive issues, insomnia,
anxiety, metabolism, migraines and much more. At the
Ayurvedic center at Vana, men and women are treated on
different floors. Male therapists attend to men and female to
the women. Many of the herbs that are blended into the
warmed oil, that are the signature of most Ayurveda
massage treatments, come from the immediate environs. All
the therapists that administered treatments to me hailed
from Kerala, the southern Indian state that has the strongest
Ayurvedic traditions in the country. One of my therapists
was a fourth generation Ayurvedic practitioner. Their pride
of work and dedication to the craft was evident and, suffice
to say, I was in excellent hands.
The other well-known wellness tradition that is promoted at
Vana is Tibetan Medicine, otherwise known as Sowa-Rigpa. In
fact, the Tibetan Healing Center at Vana is one of only a
handful that exists outside Tibet. Its excellence, authenticity
and expression of a culture in exile create the feeling of
something exceptional happening. Tibetan medicine draws a
lot from traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese remedies. Like
Ayurveda, there are doshas, and similarities to Chinese
medicine regard pulse, tongue and urine analyses which are
used to diagnose physical and emotional imbalances.
Acupuncture and massage compliment dietary and lifestyle
suggestions as treatment protocol. However, Sowa-Rigpa also
employs a distinctly Buddhist approach. The belief is that all
illnesses ultimately stem from the three poisons: ignorance,
attachment and aversion. Meditation and mindfulness are
therefore important components of the Tibetan healing
program at Vana. Several times a week, Dr. Sonam - the chief
in-house Tibetan doctor - leads a group 45-minute
compassion/meditation session, and for the more solitary
among us, meditation is also available one-on-one. The
massage on offer at the Tibetan healing center offers something
quite different to the usual: during my treatment two therapists
chanted mantras while applying oil and herbal poultices.
At Vana, it is common for guests to subscribe to a
combination of both Ayurvedic and Tibetan therapies, and
since all programs are bespoke - specific to an individual's
condition and concerns - no one program is identical to
another. There is a whole yoga center in the grounds, with
multiple studios offering complimentary morning and
evening classes as well as individual instruction. The
top-notch teachers are actually doctors of yoga, who have
in-depth knowledge of not only poses and alignment, but
also of the Vedic scriptures and spiritual texts. For those that
want to take their spiritual experience even further, there are
regular complementary group chanting sessions. I had
sessions with a doctor of reflexology and the experience was
sublime, somewhat akin to acupuncture in terms of
relaxation and opening up energy channels without the need
for needles. Aquatic based therapy is also on offer, namely
86

Ai Chi which is like Tai Chi in the water, as well as Watsu,
which I can only describe as like being in the womb,
prompting physical relaxation and tremendous emotional
release. More conventionally, there is a fully equipped,
state of the art gym, and personal trainers that provide
personalised instruction. The nutritionist, head chef and
chief groundskeeper are available to discuss all things food
and herbal remedy related, and the diverse array of
practitioners discuss between themselves guests’
programs. Everyone I personally interacted with was
aware of my stay objectives, and would politely return to
my second and third sessions with new suggestions based
on further reflection and research. My initial wellness
consultation and subsequent follow-ups and sessions with
the various doctors and experts, were all typed-up, which
allowed for a clear understanding of not only what their
diagnoses were, but also what treatment plan was in store
and why. Suggestions for re-entry to the “real world” were
also provided in written form.
While all of the above make Vana’s recent accolade of
“Most Life-Changing Retreat” wholly deserving, awards
will surely follow for its architecture, style and design.
Straight out of Wallpaper or Architectural Digest, the
buildings that make up the Vana campus do the
impossible - they equally make a statement as well as
blend into the natural setting. The palette of the interiors
includes shades of white and cream, with carefully curated
colour accents. Artwork, as well as wall and ceiling
sculptural installations, capture the eye while calming the
nervous system. Furnishings throughout the common
areas are modern and incredibly comfortable. Each nook
invites you to curl up with a book and blanket until your
next treatment begins. Guest rooms are spacious and
include a sitting area, bed area and large bathroom with
oversized tub and separate walk-in shower. Guest rooms
are spread out over three, low-rise buildings, and either
look out onto the central garden courtyard - with an
outdoor yoga sala at its focal point - or into the lush green
forest with dappled sunlight and the sound of monkeys in
the distance.
The attention to detail at every level of the Vana experience
undeniably sets the place apart. From the tailored
programs to the comfort of the physical spaces and the hot
water bottles placed in guests’ beds while they are at
dinner, Vana creates the perfect environment to really
address whatever physical and emotional issues you
perhaps didn’t even realise you had. Time spent at Vana
can be a well-deserved break from a hectic life or so much
more. Vana may have been operating below the radar since
it opened in 2014, but this is sure to change, soon. The
word has gotten out: there is a new luxury retreat on the
block and it really is a cut above the rest.
www.vanaretreats.com
88

TRAVELLER
LOWDOWN
Lucy Taylor visited the Copán ruins,
Honduras' ancient Mayan marvel.
Ιn the westernmost part of Honduras, not far from the
Guatemalan border, nestle the ruins of Copán: a
tumbledown treasure-trove of ancient Mayan buildings in
various states of repair, dotted with silvery Ceiba trees.
This particular archeological site is relatively small, as
they go, and nowhere near as epic as the soaring temples of
Teotihuacan in Mexico, or as sprawling as the eerie jungle site of
Tikal in neighbouring Guatemala; but more sculptural stone
carvings have been discovered in Copán than any other
pre-Colombian era city.
More than a millennium ago, this small city - with its neat public
plazas and richly decorated royal buildings - was one of the great
centres of Mayan civilisation, especially revered for its sculptures
and carvings. The city had an astronomical lean and made accurate
calculations about celestial objects, particularly the positions of
stars and planets, with records written in hieroglyphics. Its heyday
lasted for sixteen generations of rulers - men with fantastic names
that paid tribute to Mother Nature, such as Moon Jaguar,
Great-Sun First Quetzal Macaw and Smoke Monkey. For reasons
unknown - although numerous theories abound - the city was
abandoned in the early 10 th century when the priests departed and
the city’s residents left with them, taking all of their worldly
possessions. There is no record of a famine or a war, so the
abandonment of such a thriving city is a mystery to this day.
Gradually the local flora and fauna reclaimed the site, and it was
not rediscovered until 1570 by the Spanish explorer, Diego García
de Palacio. His reports back to Spain attracted some interest, yet
since the site was so remote, it was not until the 19 th century that
international archaeologists turned their attentions to Copán.
French explorer, Jean-Frédéric Waldeck, spent a month drawing
the ruins in the early 19 th century. There followed a number of
sponsored excavation projects, when the forest around the ruins
90

was removed, and the Copán River was redirected to save the
archaeological site and enable researchers to begin to study the
ancient civilization.
In 1980 the ruins were accorded UNESCO World Heritage status,
and money was invested to protect and restore the dilapidated old
temples. Today, there are many ongoing projects - which means
you’ll come across structures in various states of restoration when
you visit. But somehow this adds to the charm of this secluded spot.
The park opens to visitors at 08:00 and it’s a good idea to arrive
early to avoid the scorching midday heat. It’s an easy 1.5km walk
from the centre of Copán Ruinas, but there are also buses, taxis
and of course, tuk-tuks. For international visitors, entry costs
around USD 15 per person, after payment of which you make your
way from the entrance - through the trees - to the main plaza.
Stepping out of the forest shade into the spacious forum, the first
thing you notice is the frenetic jabbering of hundreds of scarlet
macaws that throng the trees around the clearing’s edge. The site’s
rangers actually feed the parrots that nest here, and consequently
the birds are unperturbed by the flurry of people - happily
swooping over the heads of visitors and chasing each other from
tree to tree.
The main plaza itself, surrounded by ghosts of temples held
together by wandering tree-roots, is now grassed over and neatly
mowed - but in its glory years, this vast forum would have been
paved with white limestone. The carved stelae (upright slabs of
stone inscribed with chronicles of Mayan rulers and their
92 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

“Its heyday lasted for sixteen
generations of rulers - men with
fantastic names that paid tribute
to Mother Nature, such as Moon
Jaguar, Great-Sun First Quetzal
Macaw and Smoke Monkey”
ancestors) are on show here - displaying staggeringly preserved
images of ancient kings bordered by clear-cut hieroglyphics. The
carvings and letters of these ancient Mayan columns, have been
extremely helpful to archaeologists - particularly the inscriptions
found on the famed hieroglyphic stairway: a 12-metre-high
construction with 63 steps, built in the 8 th century in celebration of
the then ruler. It is covered with around 2,500 glyphs - making it
the most extensive example of hieroglyphic writing in all of
Mesoamerica. However, the stairway is currently part-covered in a
huge tarpaulin to protect it from the elements, so what you can
actually view is slightly limited, albeit impressive. This is part of a
preservation project by the Honduran government in conjunction
with the USA’s Getty Conservation Institute.
Another key element of the site is the sepulturas, or tunnels. These
were dug by archaeologists in the 1980s to enable the excavation
of older temples hidden beneath the newer constructs, a practice
often employed by the Mayans. Two tunnels were open when I
visited. These showcased buried parts of older temples - but at an
additional USD 15 per person, it’s debatable whether this brief
underground experience is worth it.
Also within the archaeological park is a museum (entry USD 7 per
person) with a life-size reconstruction of the fabulous deep pink
Rosalila Temple - a (now buried) shrine honouring the city’s first
ruler, featuring amazing stucco images and bright colours. It also
contains numerous beautifully restored stelae, stone tablets,
statues and other artefacts - and you can even watch the
restoration team working live on pieces.

94 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

COPÁN RUINAS
Just over three hours drive from
San Pedro Sula and one
kilometre northwest of
Honduras’ most famous Mayan
site, Copán Ruinas is a
charming little town of cobbled
streets and colourful Spanish
colonial buildings adorned with
red-tiled roofs, nestled amongst
rolling hills in a fertile river
valley. With a tight community
of friendly townsfolk, some of
whom speak English, it's worth
staying overnight in Copán
Ruinas when visiting the ruins,
to absorb the local atmosphere
and visit the multitude of
restaurants, bars and markets
catering to the visitors that
frequent the area, not to mention
the many places of interest close
by. The streets are safe and it's
easy to wander from one side of
town to the other, past elderly
men playing checkers in the
street and kids kicking a football
around in the main square. The
town is full of quaint guest
houses and delightful places to
lodge, and so you won’t have
any problem finding
accommodation. Tuk-tuks are
also plentiful and cheap for
venturing further afield.
Well worth a visit while in
the area, is Macaw Mountain
Bird Park & Nature Reserve - a
short hop from Copán Ruinas
by tuk-tuk - which cares for
rescued and endangered
species. Contained within a
nine-acre conservation area,
including a tropical forest of
mahogany, indio desnudo,
Spanish cedar and fig trees,
elevated wooden trails and
sprawling decks offer stunning
views of the tropical bird
santuary’s extraordinary
grounds. The reserve also
serves 100% pure Arabica
estate coffee at its on-site café,
under a canopy of old,
central-American hardwood
trees in a gorgeous river valley,
to a backdrop of wild parakeets
chattering away
(www.macawmountain.org).

HOTEL MARINA COPÁN
Overlooking Copán Ruinas’ central plaza and positioned in the centre of the pretty Honduran town, Marina Copán was the
first hotel to be established in the region during the 1940s, and was named in honour of Doña Marina Welchez, having been
built on the site of her family home more than seventy years ago. Since then the hotel has played home to countless Mayan
archaeologists and generations of visiting enthusiasts. Atmospheric corridors filled with characterful furniture, intimate
courtyards and lush botanicals, give way to fifty spacious rooms and suites laid out around well-groomed gardens, splashing
fountains, a beautiful inner courtyard and pretty swimming pool. Rooms feature natural wood ceilings, hand-carved furniture
and warm, calming décor. The hotel's best accommodation is the 60m² Tower Suite, comprising a living room, separate
bedroom, deluxe bathroom and gorgeous private terrace boasting spectacular views of the mountains south of Copán.
On-site culinary options include Glifos Restaurant - renowned for its regional and international cuisine - Jaguar Venado
Bar for poolside cocktails, and Café Welchez for coffees and lighter fare.
www.hotelmarinacopan.com
96

98

TA
TE
& S SIP
REVIEW
NIHONBASHI
COLOMBO
Food
Atmosphere

Irecently visited a much lauded Japanese restaurant,
where literally everyone who served me was anything
but Japanese. Not one of the waiting staff who
delivered food to the table was able to properly
pronounce the name of the dish they so carefully carried
from the kitchen - least of all advise what the ingredients
were - and despite the hefty bill, I didn't feel that I had
partaken in a premium dining experience at all. Some of
these restaurants actually now seem to aim at a clientele
for whom high prices are not a barrier. EUR 200 per head
used to buy a lot more than one cocktail, dinner and half a
bottle of wine. Yet whilst I don't mind an expensive meal, it
is unacceptable to feel rushed while eating, commonplace
in many high-end Japanese eateries nowadays. Such haste
goes completely against the nation's ethos. So it was
refreshing to enjoy a calm and leisurely dining experience
at Nihonbashi in Colombo, cited by many as the city's best
restaurant. These days, only a handful of restaurateurs
can pull off an authentic Japanese experience properly,
and I'm happy to say that Dharshan Munidasa is one
them. His flagship restaurant is wholly deserving of the
countless accolades which have been lavished upon it.
Nihonbashi skillfully combines inventive Japanese cuisine,
TAS
TE
restaurateur. Weekly menus were planned, grocery lists
prepared in advance and dishes were gradually
developed and improved. Six months before he
graduated with a double degree in computer engineering
and international relations, Munidasa returned to Sri
Lanka when his father passed away. It was then that his
heritage and passion for Japanese cuisine motivated him
to open Nihonbashi (meaning “Japan bridge”) in 1995, his
first restaurant. In the twenty one years since then,
Munidasa has striven to grow Nihonbashi into one of the
best Japanese restaurants in the region, offering a more
artisanal style of cuisine, not dissimilar to Tokyo’s
upscale, cultured eateries. The simplicity of Nihonbashi’s
dishes highlight the quality of the ingredients used, and
DHARSHAN MUNIDASA
TEN SABI TEMAKI
subliminal yet attentive service and a sense of dining
occasion, in unpretentious, comfortable surroundings in
the heart of the Sri Lankan capital.
Born in Tokyo to a Sri Lankan father and Japanese
mother, Munidasa spent much of his childhood in Japan,
where his earliest cooking experiments came about after
observing his mother and aunts in the kitchen. As a
college student in the USA, Munidasa found the cafeteria
food unpalatable, and since he despised commercial
mass produced food, began recreating his favourite
foods from his homelands. When he moved out of the
dorms and started living in an apartment, “I realised that
if I didn’t cook right, I would die of starvation”, he said, "it
was hunger that drove me to cooking". By his senior year,
every Friday night Munidasa's apartment became a
makeshift restaurant for Japanese students looking for
good food, with the budding chef only accepting raw
ingredients as payment. The menu consisted of
home-style food made from family recipes, and as
Munidasa’s cooking attracted more and more fellow
students, he also mastered some of the skills of a
Munidasa is very conscious of the composition and
makings of every single dish on the menu, often visiting
Negombo Fish Market on the west coast of the island, to
select the best of Sri Lanka’s export quality tuna before it
is shipped to Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. Very much a
hands-on restaurateur, Munidasa’s meticulous attention
to detail in all areas of the business, has ensured that
Nihonbashi has remained a landmark restaurant at the
top of its game. Not only is his first restaurant still the
best in the city more than two decades after it first
opened, but it has also made Munidasa one of Asia's
most well-known chefs, plus the only one in the continent
with two restaurants on Asia's Top 50 list.
One might expect from an award-winning restaurant of
such pedigree, that the arrival process would be elaborate
and overwhelming. This is not the case at Nihonbashi,
arriving at which is a calming and gentle experience – the
restaurant following a Zen, ivory-white aesthetic - to the
backdrop of trickling water and lots of bamboo. Seating is
either in the ground floor restaurant or upstairs in one of
eight private dining rooms which range in size from 2 - 22
100 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

& SI P
covers, the largest being Samurai, an atmospheric, bijou
banquet room. There is also a delightful yakitori rock
garden. Our domain for the evening was the intimate
Wine Room, styled like a cellar, abounding with bottles
and glassware, and equipped with hi-tech speakers to
which we could Bluetooth our own music.
Everything we devoured at Nihonbashi was presented
with considerable attention to detail, well executed,
carefully explained and downright delicious to eat.
Standout were an ingenious Karapincha curry leaf
tempura fusion dish, Nasu Dengaku (aubergine cooked
with miso paste and filled with apple) which was a
veritable food revelation, and a white mullet, olive oil and
soy sashimi dish which was so good we ordered it twice.
For me this was the superstar dish of the night, even
eclipsing a superb Waygu beef dish which came a close
second, the meat so succulent it virtually melted in my
mouth. The meal ended with miso soup prepared in the
traditional fashion, using dashi freshly made daily.
A memorable Japanese meal is so much more than good
food and a silly bill at the end of the proceedings, yet so
many restaurants around the world seem to have
forgotten this, especially the detail. This is far from the case
at Nihonbashi, where details are noticeable everywhere
and the overall experience vastly enjoyable from start to
finish. We left the restaurant feeling contented, happy
and raving about our experience. That the chef in the
kitchen and the waiter who served us had both been
working at the restaurant since it opened twenty one
years ago, is testament to the skilled management of its
founder and driving force. That Nihonbashi was also their
first job says everything about Munidasa's people skills
and genuine warmth, just a few of the qualities evident in
every dish which comes out of the kitchen.
N SASHIMI
NIHONBASHI
Food:
Atmosphere:
Executive chef: Dharshan Munidasa
Address: 11 Galle Face Terrace, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka
Telephone: +94 112 323 847
Email: info@nihonbashi.lk
Website: www.nihonbashi.lk
Cuisine: Japanese
Lunch: 12:00 - 14:30 every day
Dinner: 18:00 - 22:30 every day
Reservations: Not essential
Wheelchair access: Yes
Lunch price: No carb bento box (Rs 2,400).
Dinner price: N Sashimi (Rs 618), Olive Oil & Soy Sashimi (Rs 1,673),
Shake Aburi (Rs 837), Karapincha Tempura (Rs 502),
Maguro Mentai Maki (Rs 1,673), Ten Sabi Temaki (Rs 592),
Yuzu Ice Cream (Rs 490).
Ideal meal: Eight-course Nihonbashi set menu (Rs 17,000).
All prices quoted are Nett.
Children: High chairs available. No kids menu
Credit cards: All major
Parking: Close-by. No valet
Reviewed by: Nicholas Chrisostomou on 6 February 2016 for dinner.
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

Bernardi brothers, Gabriel and Marcello,
hail from Australia, with their distinctly
Italian roots, good looks and shared
passion for hearty food and warm
hospitality. Both have brought to London's
restaurant scene, extensive experience
from key roles as part of the Cubitt House
Group. Gabriel was one of the group's
original co-founders and was responsible
for the set-up and interior design of The
Thomas Cubitt, The Pantechnicon Rooms
and The Orange in Belgravia, whilst
Marcello was involved with producing the
marketing and F&B concepts for these
three highly-successful venues. In creating
Bernardi's - the brothers' first
family-owned restaurant in London,
located on the corner of Seymour Place in
what has become known as Portman
Village - they drew inspiration from
Melbourne’s sprightly Italian restaurants of
the 1990s, to create their 120-cover all day
dining eatery, occupying two floors of a
classic, beautifully restored Victorian
building.
The open-plan street level 80-seat
dining room of muted greys, blacks and
accented colours, makes extensive use of
natural woods, stone and textiles that
reference a vintage Italian style, to
successfully create an elegant, understated
and warm environment, presided over at
the far end by a well designed marble bar,
which devotes an entire page of its list to
Italian apéritifs. Traditionally-styled booths
and banquette seating break up the
majestic room, lending to it a casual and
friendly feel which has been married with a
simple and seasonal, contemporary Italian
menu, produced by executive chef, Sabrina
Gidda, a two-time Roux Scholarship finalist.
Service is swift, polite and courteous,
thanks to a bevvy of energetic young
waiting staff - keen to please - attired in
funky outfits. Gidda’s pan-Italian dishes
which leave her kitchen are
well-constructed, tasty and satisfying, and
pretty good value for this part of London.
Bernardi's new weekend brunch menu
features bottomless Prosecco and Bloody
Marys at GBP 16 per head, and the Roast
Porchetta, Butternut Squash & Cime di
rapa (GBP 17.50), served on Sundays only,
is supremely moorish. During the week,
the restaurant's set lunch menu (two
courses GBP 18 or three courses for GBP
22), served from midday until 3pm,
provides both the ideal venue for local
business execs and a relaxed re-fuelling
stop for weary shoppers.
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
www.bernardis.co.uk
102

TA
TE
& S SIP
NEWCOMER
BERNARDI’S
LONDON

TA
TE
& S SIP
INTERVIEW
DHARSHAN
MUNIDASA
OWNER &
EXECUTIVE CHEF
NIHONBASHI
CELEBRITY CHEF, RESTAURATEUR
AND TV PERSONALITY, DHARSHAN
MUNIDASA, TALKED TO NICHOLAS
CHRISOSTOMOU ABOUT HOW HIS
CAREER HAS DEVELOPED FROM
COOKING FOOD FOR FELLOW
STUDENTS AT COLLEGE, TO
MANAGING FOUR OF SRI LANKA'S
TOP RESTAURANTS, INCLUDING TWO
WHICH FEATURE ON THE 2016 LIST
OF ASIA'S 50 BEST.
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 105

WAS THERE MUCH COOKING IN THE MUNIDASA HOUSEHOLD
WHEN YOU WERE A CHILD?
Yes, Mom cooked Japanese food every weekend and the
whole house was filled with the aromas of spices as curries
were prepared. Fruits from the garden were the best dessert,
and my brother and I would hand pick slightly bitten-off
mangoes that dangled from small branches, 40ft from the
ground.
WHEN DID YOU DISCOVER YOUR PASSION FOR COOKING?
I guess I was a hungry child and began to cook whenever
hunger struck. Cooking became a necessity when I was in the
US, that led to an obsession to pickle the best Otsukemono or
grill the perfect sanma or steak. I would carry Sri Lankan sea
salt by hand when travelling to America to make
Otsukemono (pickles).
HOW DID YOU BECOME SO ACCOMPLISHED IN THE KITCHEN?
At first, I had to be organised in my own kitchen during my
time as a university student. This was the beginning and bit by
bit over the following years, the knack for cooking and ability
to think swiftly with ingredients set in. Not having formal
training allowed me to think outside the box and being half
Japanese allowed me to appreciate raw ingredients, thus
emphasising ingredient knowledge. It was these steps that
made me know my way around a kitchen, and my hunger
to eat well gave me the biggest motivation.
PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR FIRST RESTAURANT.
Nihonbashi opened in 1995 as a small Japanese
restaurant. About a year later, I wanted to
break away from the “home-style” cuisine
that we served, to offer a more artisanal
Japanese cuisine similar to the
sophisticated restaurants of Tokyo. But
with limited access to ingredients due
to very high import duties, it was
almost impossible to do so. It was
at this point that I looked locally
for alternative solutions. I
searched for ingredients and
found good fish and sea food
originally intended for
export, tuna destined for
Tsukiji Fish Market in
Japan, and lagoon crabs
headed to Singapore.
Vegetables were grown
to my specifications
and the majority of
the produce found
locally started to
make Nihonbashi
unique. Today,
small efforts like
not using
frozen chicken
for yakitori has probably
made ours stand out, even by
“Not having formal training
allowed me to think outside
the box and being half
Japanese allowed me to
appreciate raw ingredients.”
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 107

Tokyo standards. Our ability to present Japanese
cuisine in English (not just writing the menu, but
explaining in depth) gave us opportunities to educate
our patrons about treasured Japanese cooking
philosophies. Today, the look and feel of the restaurant
and its design elements are unique, and having used
locally sourced raw materials makes us a distinctive
washoku-ya.
DO YOU THINK SRI LANKAN AND JAPANESE CUISINES
COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER, AND IF SO, IN WHAT WAY?
As cuisines, no, they do not. However, Japanese cooking
techniques are complementary at my Sri Lankan
restaurant “Kaema Sutra”, where we use sophisticated
Japanese knives to skilfully prepare fish for curries,
removing blood lines and bones.
WHO OR WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST GASTRONOMIC
INFLUENCE?
My biggest gastronomic influence is a place - the Tsukiji
Fish Market. For more than two decades, Tsukiji has
taught me much about all kinds of fish, and the changing
seasons allow you to see the varied produce available
year-round. The small kitchen
utensil shops are also a
treasure trove of learning
what equipment is used for
what purpose - where else
would you find 20 different
gauges and lengths of steel
skewer?!
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE
MEAL TO COOK AT HOME?
Chicken curry, with only three
spices and salt. You could
make this dish to match wines from both ends of the
spectrum - our spices are extremely complex!
WHAT INSPIRES YOU TO CREATE A NEW DISH FOR ONE OF
YOUR RESTAURANTS?
Inspiration to create new dishes for my restaurants
stems from a newly found source of produce: having
found ocean farmed barramundi has resulted in an
amazing spicy dish at Kaema Sutra, and clams became
part of the menu at Ministry of Crab once we had found
the perfect supplier. So I would say that creativity is
ingredients inspired - as we try to keep food miles low
and avoid importing.
WHAT MAKES A SRI LANKAN LAGOON CRAB SUCH A SPECIAL
CRUSTACEAN FOR A CHEF?
Sri Lankan lagoon crab has become revered in Singapore.
It was this need to re-own that which is intrinsically ours
that made this variety of crab special to me. It is not a
new discovery in Sri Lanka, it has always been here: what
matters is whether or not the chef treats the crab
respectfully. Many used frozen versions to offset costs,
making crab dishes ordinary. Giving them the same
108
“Giving lagoon crabs the
same respect as tuna in
a Japanese kitchen has
made them special in Sri
Lanka again.”
respect as tuna in a Japanese kitchen has made the crab
special in Sri Lanka again.
HOW DID THE PARTNERSHIP WITH CRICKETING LEGENDS
MAHELA JAYAWARDENE AND KUMAR SANGAKKARA COME
ABOUT?
Kumar and Mahela are regulars at Nihonbashi and have
been kind enough to appear on my TV show. It was from
this friendship that I asked them if they would like to join
me and be a part of Ministry of Crab.
TELL US ABOUT THE ATMOSPHERE AND CUSTOMERS AT
MINISTRY OF CRAB.
The styling at Ministry of Crab includes the Dutch colours
(the very same colour as a cooked crab), bright Heliconia
flowers that look like crab claws, big ministerial tables
and a no-nonsense kitchen in full view of diners. The
sounds and aromas of dishes being prepared swirl
through the dining hall of this old Dutch hospital built in
the 1700s. Over the last four years we have gained
popularity out of Sri Lanka, and so today many of our
patrons make reservations months in advance to be sure
to experience Ministry of Crab
when they are in Colombo.
HOW DO YOU MANAGE FOUR
RESTAURANTS?
I do it by spending time in
each kitchen each day, having
a big team, and using smart
phones to help source
non-food requirements etc.
My time is much better
managed now, but still not
perfect.
WHAT IS NIHONBASHI'S SIGNATURE DISH?
Nihonbashi has a few signature dishes. Ten Sabi Temaki
- a tempura prawn hand roll that plays with both warm
and cold temperatures. Curry leaf tempura - an
amazing dish using a leaf that is not commonly eaten in
Sri Lankan cuisine, rather only used for aromatic
purposes. Olive oil and soy sashimi - one of my
creations for The Tuna & The Crab in Galle - that is now
a signature dish at Nihonbashi. Timing is critical for this
dish to work.
MINISTRY OF CRAB AND NIHONBASHI BOTH FEATURE,
AGAIN, IN THE LIST OF ASIA'S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS. WHAT
WOULD YOU SAY IS THE RECIPE FOR THESE SUCCESSES?
Being unique, out of the box and relevant, and delivering
an eating experience that diners remember.
NAME ONE CULINARY MILESTONE YOU ASPIRE TO.
To be the first Michelin starred restaurant not to use a
freezer or frozen produce.
www.nihonbashi.lk

TA
TE
& S SIP
THE FOOD
OLIVE OIL &
SOY SAUCE
SASHIMI
DHARSHAN MUNIDASA, EXECUTIVE
CHEF OF COLOMBO’S AWARD
WINNING JAPANESE RESTAURANT,
NIHONBASHI, SHARED WITH THE
CULTURED TRAVELLER THIS
UNCOMPLICATED RECIPE THAT WILL
UNDOUBTEDLY IMPRESS AT ANY
DINNER PARTY GATHERING.
110

INGREDIENTS
Sea bream of your choice
Soya sauce
Olive oil
Chopped garlic
METHOD
Slice your choice of sea bream into
thin, evenly sized strips and position
on a serving plate.
Heat the olive oil in a small pan, add
a teaspoon of finely chopped garlic
and fry until golden brown.
Pour the soya sauce over the slices of
plated fish. Then pour the piping-hot
olive oil and garlic combination over
the fish. It will begin to crackle as the
oil meets the soya sauce, creating a
warm and cold texture, while the
garlic offers a subtle crunchiness that
makes a interesting alternative to
wasabi.

BOB
SINCLAR
114

music&
NIGHT
LIFE
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU INTERVIEWED GRAMMY-NOMINATED
FRENCH RECORD PRODUCER, INTERNATIONAL HOUSE MUSIC DJ
AND CREATOR OF COUNTLESS WORLDWIDE DANCE HITS
BOB SINCLAR, AS HE PREPARES FOR HIS SECOND SUMMER
AS RESIDENT DJ AT ICONIC PACHA NIGHTCLUB IN IBIZA
Where and when was the first time you DJ’d?
Of course, as a beginner, nobody wanted me to play as a
DJ in a regular club, so I organized my own parties. I was
passionate and deeply influenced by music of black origin
- from hip-hop to soul and ragga to acid jazz - but few
people in the early 90s considered including these
musical styles in their DJ sets. I named my first party
“Funk You”, and on that very same day I discovered that
playing in front of a crowd was the most difficult thing
ever.
Describe your sound and what makes it unique.
It’s very hard to create an up-tempo track with feelings,
emotions and a good theme, yet this is what I strive to
achieve. I am always on the lookout for happy vibes and
intense rhythms.
Whose music has influenced you most?
Discovering hip-hop was a revelation for me. I was
fascinated by the tension in the beats. It took me a while
to discover how hip-hop artists created their music by
recycling sounds.
In what way has your sound changed during the
course of your career?
I am not a classic musician and never took any formal
lessons. I am something of a product of the hip-hop
generation and started making beats and music by
recycling sounds and using sampling techniques. My goal
was to create big room beats and play them to crowds.
Back then I couldn’t even imagine that one day my music
would get radio airplay. It’s been a 20-year learning curve
- working with some amazing musicians and singers - that
has guided me to producing good songs. Over the years
my beats and sounds have developed, but the way I
produce has remained the same: I build ideas with
sounds and music, and supply my tracks to clubs to play.
Vinyl or digital - which gives you most pleasure?
I use both in different ways. Vinyl is a source of
inspiration and digital is how I develop my sound.
Technology nowadays is so advanced, and talented
young artists are producing amazing processed music. I
still get excited about finding new ways to update my
musical voice.

How big is your record collection and where do you
keep it?
After 20 years of collecting, I have 35,000 records in my
studio and I listen to them over and over again, just to
make sure that I haven’t missed something important. I
love the nostalgia in music.
How did it feel in 2005 when Love Generation hit the
top of the worldwide charts?
No one can predict that kind of hit. The production of
the track was a combination of mistakes, lucky accidents
and timely meetings in New York. When you create a
song which combines your heart and vision, and it
touches people and tops the charts around the world, it
brings an amazing sensation of happiness. You feel
blessed and rewarded for the work and passion you put
into that song. Love Generation is a musical
masterpiece which only happens once in an artist’s
career, and I still feel the same happiness when I play it.
I generally play it at the end of a DJ set, and when it
comes on the crowds still go wild, wherever in the world
I am playing.
Your thoughts about Electronic Dance Music.
I feel that I have tolerated EDM for the past five years.
Now it’s over, it is time for people to enjoy real house
music again.
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 117

the new flagship boutique
504 R. A. De Mel Mawatha | 2 nd floor
Colombo 3 | Sri Lanka
+94 (0)11 208 17 84
www.facebook.com/lateliertouche.lk
www.instagram.com/lateliertouche
www.lateliertouche.com
info@lateliertouche.com

Love Generation is a musical masterpiece which only happens once
in an artist’s career, and I still feel the same happiness when I play it.
April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 119

Is there anything you miss from the early
days of your DJ’ing career?
I had an amazing time throughout my career but I
don’t really miss anything. I love what’s happening
now: the young generation loves music, more now
than ever before.
Which night club or venue, anywhere in the
world, has the best sound system?
Zouk in Singapore has the best sound system in
the world. But Pacha in Ibiza has the best of
everything you expect in a club, and feels like
home to me.
Would you say you’re more of a traditionalist
in your sound and the technology you use to
DJ, or are you constantly evolving?
As a DJ, I feel that too much technology can kill the
vibe of a night, and so I prefer to stay focused on
mixing the different tracks I play and combining
their energies.
What are the most important ingredients
needed to make a hit record?
Emotion in the harmonies, a strong musical hook,
and a catchy vocal melody with the right theme in
the lyrics. Making a hit is a long journey that needs
research, dedication, and some trial and error, in
order to achieve the exact sound you want for
your track.
What’s your favourite holiday destination to
relax and recharge?
I don’t really go on holidays. I live in Los Angeles
which is the perfect place for relaxation. I love the
energy of the city and it encourages me to look
after myself, play sport, be fit and eat well.
You are constantly travelling around the
world DJ’ing. What are your travel essentials?
Since I generally only travel for 3 or 4 days at a
time, I can pack light. Black t-shirts and my laptop
are my essentials. I simply could not survive
without my laptop.
How do you spend your time on a long-haul
flight?
I try to sleep as much as possible, to rest after a
busy night before and avoid jetlag. Sometimes I
work on my laptop, whether on a new mix or
other production ideas.
Which is your favourite city hotel in the world
and why?
My favourite city is New York. I love the energy of
120

I have 35,000 records in
my studio and I listen to
them over and over again,
just to make sure that I
haven’t missed something
important.
the place and how the city introduces me to so
many talented artists from different
backgrounds. The Gansevoort, located in the
meat packing district, is my favourite hotel in New
York.
Which personal characteristics do you believe
one must possess in order to attain this high
level of DJ’ing?
To be a good DJ, you need to practice a lot and
possess a large musical culture. And you need to
be able to play anywhere, for all types of people.
This will enable you to play in the most important
clubs. A DJ is here to entertain people, not to look
at himself in the mirror. I love sharing my musical
energy with a crowd.
You’ve been spotted using a Louis Vuitton
Takashi Murakami monogram camouflage
carry-on. Are you a fan of any other
designers?
I collect contemporary art, I love fashion and enjoy
shopping for beautiful items during my trips
around the world. Louis Vuitton is a luggage
classic and Murakami an amazing artist so they
are the perfect combination for a collaboration.
What has been your most memorable career
highlight to date?
Every year without fail, since the beginning of my
career, I have enjoyed surprises and highlights.
When I first started out, I did not consider the
possibility of making a living based on my passion
for music - and yet here I am today, still giving
interviews, DJ’ing and touring the globe. I have
made many hits and now, for the second year, I
am the resident DJ at Pacha, Ibiza. What can I say?
I feel blessed everyday.
Is there anywhere in the world you would like
to DJ where you haven’t yet?
I have never played in Africa, so it would be
amazing to play there one day, perhaps in Nigeria
where Fela Kuti and King Sunny Ade are from. I
am a big fan of both these artists and I love
African beats.
Tell us about a future project which really
excites you?
I have a new single coming out on Spinnin’
Records on 18 th April 2016, and I start my summer
residency Paris by Night at Pacha, Ibiza on 21 st May
2016. Come see and hear me playing house
music.
www.bobsinclar.com

Spring is in the air and calls for a dash of colour and all things bright.
From pretty pastels to electric blues, spruce up your spring/summer
wardrobe with fabulous pieces – from easy on the wallet to key
investment classics. It is also a time to rejuvenate your skin and senses
with silky products and fabrics. Whether you are planning a city break
or partying in the sun, this wish list will ensure that you look your stylish
best and feel lusciously primed for your next cultured adventure!
Farheen Allsopp, Fashion Expert
For Him
ANDERSON’S
WOVEN BELT
This Anderson’s woven belt is finished with a
high-grade, blue leather trim, and would look
great with dark or light trousers or shorts.
Ditch black and brown this spring and go for
a splash of azure blue!
EUR 90 WWW.MRPORTER.COM
SAINT LAURENT
HAWAIIAN SHIRT
Straight off Saint Laurent’s
Spring/Summer 2016 runway show,
this slim cut, lightweight printed
shirt with raw edges, is sure to put
the wearer in a chirpy spring mood.
EUR 550
WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM
BERLUTI DEUX
JOURS BRIEFCASE
This beautiful two-toned midnight
blue leather bag - with top sporting
handles and an adjustable shoulder
strap - is great for carrying laptops,
files and personal effects, and a
colourful accessory to a funky guy’s
on the go ensemble.
EUR 2,550 WWW.MRPORTER.COM
ITALIA INDEPENDENT
SUNGLASSES
The cool-blue aesthetic of these shades
designed by Lapo Elkann, is achieved using a
complex laser process that leaves chromatic
streaks in the frames. Tinted blue lenses
complete the slick look cool factor. Model
I-PLASTIK 0920.
EUR 180 WWW.ITALIAINDEPENDENT.COM
GALET LOAFERS
These Steve McQueen-inspired classic loafers in cherry
red, made from the finest leather by playful French
luxury brand Galet, are a shoe collection staple for the
modern man and ideal for stylish weekend wear.
EUR 250 WWW.GALET.COM
FAUST’S TRAVEL KIT
This soft leather case contains two sets of
recovery packs, a silk eye mask, 3M earplugs
and revitalising face spray. The awake and
asleep potions are made with concentrated
natural vitamins and minerals, to revitalise and
freshen after a long-haul flight, or calm and
replenish after a wild encounter.
GBP 42 WWW.FAUSTSPOTIONS.COM
122 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

For Her
NARS MULTI STICK
JOHANNA
ORTIZ SKIRT
This versatile stick comes in an array of colours - from
sheer pinks to bold bronzes - and can be used on
cheeks, eyes, brow bones or lips. Chic and practical,
this product is a beauty cult favourite.
EUR 38 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM
Unleash your inner Latina
with this gorgeous ruffled
peplum skirt, made with silk
faille by Colombian designer,
Johanna Ortiz. The detachable
red grosgrain bow adds a
sophisticated and feminine
look while the thigh-high slit
adds a sexy touch. Team with a
dressy blouse or a plain white
tee for a look of understated
yet memorable glamour.
GBP 950
WWW.NETAPORTER.COM
HARBOUR
STRAW HAT
Purchase this
wider-brimmed take
on a traditional
Panama - in ivory
straw and black grosgrain trimming - and
instantly elevate the sophistication and
elegance of any outfit. Perfect for both the
city and sunny holidays.
EUR 139 WWW.MYTHERESA.COM
PAULA
MENDOZA
BLAU RING
This 24k gold plated ring
by Colombian designer
Paula Mendoza will
brighten any look,
complement a jeans and
white shirt ensemble for day, and tantalise
when worn with a LBD at night.
USD 250
WWW.MODAOPERANDI.COM
DIPTYQUE
SATIN OIL
This light, dry oil
is an absolute
summer essential.
Evoking scents
reminiscent of
jasmine,
ylang-ylang and
saffron, spray it on
for skin that is
satin-soft to the
touch, and on hair
to repair, nourish
and add shine.
USD 60
WWW.DIPTYQUEPARIS.COM
AQUAZZURA
COLORADO SHOES
These vibrant, tribal, beaded and
tasselled Aztec-inspired suede
sandals tick every fashion box, plus
are comfortable and stylish to boot,
a rare combination which makes
them wearable throughout the day
and evening.
EUR 650
WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

B
Barefoot
www.barefootceylon.com
Bernardi’s
www.bernardis.co.uk
Blue Kite
www.bluekitekalpitiya.com
Bob Sinclar
www.bobsinclar.com
Brighton Festival
www.brightonfestival.org
British Airways
www.ba.com
C
Café Français
www.cafefrancaisbypourcel.com
Cannes International Film Festival
www.festival-cannes.com
Cappadox
www.cappadox.com
Coachella
www.coachella.com
COCO-MAT Hotel Athens
www.cocomatathens.com
Corral Del Ray
www.corraldelrey.com
D
Das Stue Hotel
www.das-stue.com/en
Delaire Graff
www.delaire.co.za
Dubai Airports
www.dubaiairports.ae
E
El Rinconcillo
www.elrinconcillo.es
F
Faena
www.faena.com
Frieze New York
www.friezenewyork.com
G
Galle Face Hotel
www.gallefacehotel.com
H
Hay Festival
www.hayfestival.com/wales
Hotel Marina Copán
www.hotelmarinacopan.com
Hoxton Hotel, Holborn
www.thehoxton.com/london/holborn
K
Kaema Sutra
www.kaemasutra.com
L
L'atelier Touché
www.facebook.com/lateliertouche.lk
Laksala
www.laksala.gov.lk
124 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

Lizard Island
www.lizardisland.com.au
M
Macaw Maountain
www.macawmountain.org
Minstry Of Crab
www.ministryofcrab.com
N
Nihonbashi
www.nihonbashi.lk
O
Odel
www.odel.lk/odel-stores
On14
www.ozohotels.com/colombo-srilanka
P
Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & Villas
www.abudhabi.park.hyatt.com
Q
Qatar Airways
www.qatarairways.com
R
Royal Mansour
www.royalmansour.com
Silk
www.sugarcolombo.com/club-silk/
Snowbombing
www.snowbombing.com
SriLankan
www.srilankan.com
41 Sugar
www.sugarcolombo.com/41sugar/
Sugar Bistro & Wine Bar
www.sugarcolombo.com/sugar-bistro-wine-bar/
T
The 1864
www.gallefacehotel.com/the-1864.php
The Chedi Club
www.ghmhotels.com/en/tanah-gajah/
The Siam
www.thesiamhotel.com
The St. Regis Langkawi
www.stregis.com/langkawi
Thrissur Pooram Elephant Festival
www.thrissurpooramfestival.com
Traveller's Bar
www.gallefacehotel.com/travellers-bar.php
Trujillo National Cheese Festival
www.feriadelquesotrujillo.es
V
Vana Malsi Estate
www.vanaretreats.com
S
San Clemente Palace Kempinksi
www.kempinski.com/en/venice/san-clemente-palace-kempinski