(9) The Cultured Traveller - The Colombian Edition, February-March 2016 Issue 9

ISSUE 9
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016
La Edición
COLOMBIANA
COVER IMAGE COURTESY OF PROCOLOMBIA
BOGOTÁ • SOFÍA VERGARA • MEDELLÍN • JUANES • CARTAGENA
SIERRA NEVADA DE SANTA MARTA • GLORIA SALDARRIAGA

Coming in fall 2016, internationally acclaimed Nobu Hotel
brings its unique style of fusion artistry to the eternally
iconic EdenRoc Resort & Spa, setting a new
standard of luxury in Miami Beach.
nobuedenroc.com

Pierre Koffman
Eileen Atkins
Mick Jagger
The Beatles
Nigel Havers
Dennis Potter
Sienna Miller
Peter Blake
Marco Pierre White
Sam Smith
Eartha Kit
Joe Orton Peter Cook
Imelda Staunton
Francis Bacon
Beryl Cook
Lucien Freud
Laurence Olivier
Janis Joplin
Coco
Frankie Howard
Chanel
Ella Fitzgerald
Diana
General de Gualle
Stephen Fry
Marianne Faithfull
Kenneth Halliwell
Dudley Moore
Danny La Rue
Elton Joh
Paloma Faith
Edward Heath
Cleo Laine
Judi Dench
Frank Sinatra
A SoHo Institution
Since 1927
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Bar, Restaurant
& Club Privé
L’ Escargot
Depuis 1927
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Telephone 020 7494 1318 www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk
Monday to Sunday:
All day until 1am

CONTENTS
HIGHLIGHTS
37 COLOMBIA’S COOL CAPITAL
Bogotá, Colombia's high altitude high-octane capital
city, refreshingly doesn't revolve around foreign visitors,
but caters rather well to tourists, with luxe hotels,
exceptional eating, world-class museums and stylish
boutiques.
64 SOFÍA VERGARA
The TV star, actress and comedienne of Modern Family
fame, picks out the favourite parts of her native city of
Barranquilla and gives us some holiday tips about
Colombia, her motherland.
56 BOTERO’S SUITES
The Cultured Traveller slipped behind the keyhole of two
unique vacation pads inextricably linked to one of the
most successful contemporary artists alive, Fernando
Botero: The award-winning Botero Suite at Sofitel
Legend Santa Clara and The Angel Suite at Casa De
Indias, both in the heart of Cartagena’s old city.
108 COLOMBIA’S
FASHION QUEEN
Routinely consulted for fashion and art advice,
Colombia’s charming fashion queen, Gloria Saldarriaga,
chatted exclusively with The Cultured Traveller about
her life and passions.
71 NO SHOES BLISS
Nicholas Chrisostomou road-tested two distinctly
different Colombian chill out experiences: a beachside
eco escape on the country’s stunning northern coastline,
and a designer vacation pad in an Andean riverside town
virtually untouched by tourism.performing.
102 LATINO POP GOD
The Cultured Traveller caught up with Latino pop music
legend, Juanes, winner of two Grammy Awards, and
twenty Latin Grammy Awards.
88 LOVE IS IN THE DETAILS
Medellín restaurant, Carmen, is owned and run by an
American-Colombian gastronomic power couple, who
have forged a niche in Colombia’s restaurant industry by
reimagining dishes with vitality and flair, and serving
them in elegant yet warm surroundings.
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 07

66
88
12
71
56
10
EDITOR’S LETTER
Our second ever special country
issue, La Edición Colombiana,
explores the only nation in South
America embraced by the Pacific
and Atlantic. In between these
oceans, is a land of rich flora and
fauna - including the Amazon
and Andes - together with
modern cities, vast farmlands,
ancient civilisations and colonial
charm. Welcome to Colombia,
the country of magical realism.
12 NEWSFLASH
Colombia, with something for
every month of the year,
including Carnival in Barranquilla,
Popayán‘s Easter procession,
Medellín’s International Tango
Festival, Opera In The Park in the
country’s capital city of Bogotá,
and the Miss Colombia Pageant
in Cartagena.
country, Casa Galavanta high in
the forests of Sierra Nevada de
Santa Marta, Entremonte Wellness
Hotel & Spa in Apulo and the slick
new Movich Buró 51 in Barranquilla.
37 CITY FOCUS: BOGOTÁ
Home to the famed gold and
Botero museums, Colombia's high
altitude high-octane capital city,
Bogotá, refreshingly doesn't
revolve around foreign visitors but
does cater rather well to tourists,
with luxe hotels, exceptional
eating, funky bars and stylish
boutiques, plus the
picture-postcard downtown
Candelaria colonial quarter.
54 MY BOGOTÁ
The Bogotá-based founder of
Loto del Sur, Johana Sanit, reveals
where she choses to spend quality
time in Colombia’s busy capital.
16 REST YOUR HEAD
Hotels featured in La Edición
Colombiana include the swishy
W Bogotá in the nation’s capital,
world-famous Sofitel Legend
Santa Clara in Cartagena,
Sazagua in the heart of coffee
66 BOARDING PASS: AVIANCA
Founded in 1919, Avianca is the
world's second oldest operating
airline after KLM, and many
consider Colombia's flag carrier
to have pioneered civil aviation
37
64
88

71
CONTENTS
100
in South America. In the face of
increased competition, Latin
America’s oldest airline is
fighting back by introducing new
jets, more routes and improving
in-flight services.
78 MY CALI
Publisher and dedicated foodie,
Katherine Arujo, insists that you
really must salsa in Cali,
Colombia’s capital of dance.
80SPOTLIGHT: MEDELLÍN
Colombia’s second largest
metropolis has endured one of
the most destructive periods in
any modern city’s existence. Now
a blossoming cultural centre and
one of Latin America’s liveliest
and most creative hotbeds, that
Medellín has come so far since
Escobar’s demise is testament to
the resilience and determination
of the city’s people. Carmen
Ángel walks us through the city’s
most special spots.
86 MY MEDELLÍN
One of the country's most
celebrated artists, Jorge Julián
16
Aristizabál, talked to The
Cultured Traveller about his
hometown of Medellín.
88 TASTE & SIP
Sophia Brault reviewed
Cartagena’s culinary hot spot,
María, where chef Alejandro
Rámirez is cooking up a storm.
And Nicholas Chrisostomou
reviewed Medellín restaurant,
Carmen, owned and run by an
American-Colombian
gastronomic power couple, who
have forged a niche in the fine
dining scene by reimagining
dishes with vitality and flair.
94 THE FOOD
Make Carmen restaurant's
signature fish dish, de Bahía
Solano, using this exclusive
recipe by executive chef, Rob
Pevitts.
100 MY CARTAGENA
The owner of one of Cartagena’s
most popular bar and restaurant
venues, let’s us in on a few of the
city’s best kept secrets.
80
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102
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 09

Editor’s Letter
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016
La Edición
COLOMBIANA
My maiden visit to Colombia, just
over a year ago, was an add-on to
a Miami trip. It was a complete
revelation to me. I felt like a kid in
a travel candy store, tasting
sherbet for the first time. The
people were so warm and the
depth of culture so rich (neither of
which I had expected) I just
wanted to go back and see more.
Whilst Europeans routinely
travel to Australia, which is an
awful lot further away than Colombia, South America seems
more distant culturally, probably because most of us are
creatures of habit. We get so little vacation time that when we do
go on holiday we want to know what we're getting, how hot and
whether there's Wi-Fi. We instinctively shy away from places
which may pose potential challenges. Given the vast number and
variety of destinations on our beautiful planet, it's a great shame
for those who don't adventure and discover more. Colombia
reinforced this for me, more than anywhere I'd visited the past
decade. I had no idea that so many naturally spectacular,
bio-diverse and fundamentally different regions could exist in one
country. Colombia is the only country in South America embraced
by the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. In between is a nation of rich
flora and fauna unlike anywhere else - including the Amazon
rainforest and Andes mountains - together with modern cities,
vast farmlands, ancient civilisations and authentic colonial charm.
In recent years Colombia has undergone a remarkable
transformation. It has turned the tide on a long running and
bloody terrorist insurgency, and made great strides in restoring
security and stability to the nation. Today, the country's
boundless energy and genuine spirit fill every corner of the land,
and music, dance, food, art, fashion and style saturate its cities.
It would be impossible to cover an entire country in one issue,
so we’ve carefully chosen a handful of fascinating places which
together we think bestow a real feel for this bewitching nation.
Bogotá, Medellín and the historic walled city of Cartagena are all
featured, together with a deluxe tree house in the mountainous
forest, an eco resort on the rugged northern coast, South
America’s best hotel suite and Botero’s former Caribbean
vacation pad. Sofía Vergara gives us the lowdown about her
home city of Barranquilla, and we even managed to catch-up
with multi-Grammy award winning Latin pop star Juanes.
In five years the magical realism will probably have been
eroded and the country become a tourist mecca, so now is the
time to visit Colombia. You simply must see this Latin American
gem while it’s gleaming and unpolished.
Medellín
Sofia Vergara
Nicholas Chrisostomou
Sierra Nevada de
Santa Marta
10 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

Contributors
Jorge Julián Aristizábal
Resides: Medellín • Wrote: Traveller Lowdown: My Medellín
Celebrated artist, Jorge Julián Aristizábal,
was born in Medellín where he still lives.
He received his BFA from Otis College of
Art and Design in LA and his Masters from
Goldsmiths in London. Aristizábal’s work
has been included in a number of
prominent exhibitions around the world,
including the VII Biennial of Bogotá at
Museo de Arte Moderno de Bogotá,
Magical Realism: Figurative Art of the 90’s in Colombia at The
Barbican Centre (London), and Queens International at Queens
Museum in New York City. Aristizábal has also been the subject
of numerous solo exhibitions in Colombia and overseas.
Carmen Ángel
Resides: Medellín • Wrote: Spotlight: Medellín
Carmen Ángel graduated with a degree in
Economics and Business Administration
from UC Santa Cruz before attending Le
Cordon Bleu culinary academy in San
Francisco. She has lived in Medellín since
2008, and owns and operates three
restaurants with her father Diego and
husband Rob.
Ángel has been a contributing
gastronomy editor for the Medellín city newspaper, El
Colombiano, for more than three years and is addicted to travelling
and sampling new cuisines. She has a deep passion for sea urchin,
oysters, cheese, saké and cuddling her Siamese cat, Moshi.
•BEIRUT•
752 GOURAUD ST. SAIFI VILLAGE
BEIRUT • LEBANON
T: +961 76 997 676
M: +961 76 997 676
www.giltbeirut.com
Katherine Araujo
Resides: Bogotá • Wrote: Traveller Lowdown: My Cali
Born and raised in Cali, Colombia’s salsa
capital, Katherine Araujo had the good
fortune of growing up with a close affinity to
Colombian cuisine thanks her mother, and
inherited delicious traditional recipes from
her grandma. Araujo studied cooking and
hospitality management in Argentina and
Switzerland and likes nothing more than
seeing the world and eating great food.
Today, she co-publishes the only restaurant guide in Colombia,
travels the country researching and selecting the best
establishments for the handbook, and steers foodies to the hottest
eateries throughout Colombia.
Sophia Brault
Resides: Bogotá • Wrote: Taste & Sip: María
Of French-American descent, Sophia
Brault grew up between New York,
California and Paris and her parents publish
restaurant guides about fine cuisine. Sophia
studied business and hospitality
management in Switzerland with a view to
continuing the family business.
Brault has been living in Colombia for
two years with her partner who she met at
school in Switzerland, and with whom she co-publishes Best
Restaurants Colombia guide. Brault loves what she does and intend
to continue travelling and exploring wonderful and exciting cuisines
from around the world, in pursuit of finding what pleases the senses.

VALLENATO LEGEND
FESTIVAL
VALLEDUPAR
This is a melodic festival like no other,
where both south and some North
American artists convene in the spring
- and have been doing so since the
late 1960s - to present audiences with
a generous helping of merengue, folk,
paseo and other Latino music. The
event usually takes place over four
days, and is hosted in April every year
CARNIVAL
BARRANQUILLA
For the people of Colombia, the start of
a new year is not just about fresh goals
and aspirations - it also marks the
beginning of carnival season. This
vibrant, four day extravaganza - the
biggest carnival in the world after Rio -
kicks off in early February, but the
party atmosphere in Barranquilla starts
weeks earlier, when enthusiastic
participants adding finishing touches to
elaborate floats and rehearsing dancers
can be seen on the city’s streets.
Pre-carnival events include the
crowning of King Momo (the leader of
carnivals) and the Carnival Queen, and
the reading of the Lectura del Bando - a
traditional declaration of carnival -
serves as a call for citizens to begin
celebrations. The Queen leads the first
day’s festivities with the main event,
the Batalla de Flores - an extravaganza
of flowers, folk dancing, masked
entertainers - with spectators in fancy
dress filling the streets to cheer the
floats passing by. The Grand Parade on
day two features a thrilling,
multi-coloured mass of flamboyant
characters in lavish, elaborate
costumes, all vying for a place in the
following year’s main event.
6-9 February 2016
www.carnavaldebarranquilla.org
12 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016
EASTER PROCESSION
POPAYÁN
Easter is the most celebrated of
religious festivals in Colombia and the
country’s majority Catholic population
gets this underway with Semana Santa,
or holy week, and the variety of events
that commence on Tuesday through to
Holy Saturday. Popayán, a historic city
in the southern region regarded as the
nation’s ‘Religious Capital’ (it has more
churches per inhabitant than any other
city in Colombia), hosts huge
processions and musical shows in its
town centre and churches throughout
the week, with crowds from near and
far, as well as overseas visitors, flocking
to the area to revere the country’s rich
cultural traditions. Popayán is also Latin
America’s first UNESCO World City of
Gastronomy, and tasty, seasonal food
and snacks are served everywhere.
Visitors can join post-procession
celebrations or attend concerts
performed by local and international
musicians. The main event takes place
on Good Friday - a parade depicting the
passion of Christ prior to his crucifixion.
25-29 March 2016
www.semanasantapopayan.com
in the city of Valledupar - located
between the Sierra Nevada de Santa
Marta and the Serranía del Perijá
mountain ranges - within a region of
diverse temperatures and terrains,
from snowy peaks to hot plains.
Shows at the Vallenato ‘born in the
valleys’ festival demonstrate how the
music of farm-folk, African slaves and
European settlers of the city’s past,
influenced and manifested into the
Latino sound we associate with the
continent today, with the accordion
featuring characteristically
throughout. Colourful dancers
parading the teeming streets is a
common sight during Vallenato
Legend Festival, as are quick-tongued
lyricists - akin to folkloric rappers -
entertaining locals with their inspired
rhetoric. Many other activities take
place such as debates and storytelling,
and cultural artworks are proudly
displayed. The festival helps boost
local trade and the region’s economy,
with Colombian presidents,
dignitaries, international media,
personalities and artists attending this
valuable and culturally significant
affair each year.
25-30 April 2016
www.festivalvallenato.com

FESTIVAL OF WAYUÚ CULTURE
URIBIA, LA GUAJIRA
The Wayuú are Colombia’s most prominent indigenous population, notable for
keeping with the traditions and lingo of their ancestry. This ethnic group lives in the
country’s most northern point, La Guajira - a vast, hot land with a sandy-white
Caribbean coast and a broad population of more than half a million. Here, the town
of Uribia hosts the Festival of Wayuu Culture, where regional Wayuus and those of
the Zulia community that reside in bordering Venezuela, convene to honour the
traditions, play the music and dish out the authentic flavours of their respected
heritage. The annual cultural event - considered the most important one of its kind in
the country - attracts both local citizens and overseas visitors keen to be immersed
in the distinctively ethnic atmosphere of colorful pageantry, intricate handicraft,
poetry, tribal art exhibits and traditional yonna dances. One of the highlights is the
selection of ‘Miss Gold’ - when Wayuú women compete in an ayeishi (sing-off) to
determine whose verses contain the most culturally rich dialect and facts.
6-8 May 2016 www.colombia.com
INTERNATIONAL
TANGO FESTIVAL
MEDELLÍN
Each year tens of thousands of people
descend upon Medellín, Colombia’s
second largest city, for the annual tango
festival; a rhythm-centric celebration that
honours this beloved expression of dance
and music. Tango may not be classically
associated with Colombia, but when the
dance’s most famous and adored
Argentine performer and composer,
Carlos Gardel, died in an aircraft accident
at Medellín airport in the mid 1930s, he
left a poignant legacy that is now
entwined in the musical ethos of the
country today. The festival is a four-day
tribute to tango, with an inspired array of
contests, activities and thrilling shows
that pay homage to songwriters, films
and documentaries in salute of the
vivacious women and history of tango.
Throughout magnificent, classical
performances by the Medellín
Philharmonic Orchestra fill the air with
the entrancing vigor of tango. New
enthusiasts, amateurs, proficient dancers
and anyone wishing to fully immerse in
body and spirit, can attend any of the
workshops dedicated to the passionate
unity of movement and music that is
characteristic of the dance’s style.
Delicious, Argentine foods cater to the
hungry and fans purchase memorabilia
and collectables at a number of stalls,
then take to the streets with everyone
else to share in the merriment of it all.
22-26 June 2016
www.festivaldetangomedellin.com
JOROPO
INTERNATIONAL
FESTIVAL
VILLAVICENCIO
High in the plains of central Colombia’s
Meta district, the city of Villavicencio
plays host to a most unique event,
attended by approximately half a million
people. Essentially an eclectic mix of
dance contests, fabulous parades and
the crowning of equestrian champions,
Joropo has African and European roots
and a fast, waltz-like rhythm, and is
celebrated in a kaleidoscopic display of
Llanero dance troupes from Colombia
and neighbouring Venezuela. Expect to
see thousands of smartly dressed men
in hats - in ode to the cowboy origins of
the movement - partnered with females
in bright, frilly dresses that flare as they
spin in quick, colourful unison,
competing in the Joropodromo
tournament for coveted prizes in their
appropriate age and competency
categories. Other traditions include a
food festival, a rodeo with challengers
battling it out for top prize as they show
off their cattle corralling and other
grass-roots skills, a beauty pageant, and
an arts and crafts area imbued with the
myths and folklore of the Los Llanos.
29 June - 4 July 2016
www.colombia.com
FLOWER FAIR
MEDELLÍN
Colombia is the second biggest live
flower exporter in the world, and in
honour of these fragrant national
treasures, Medellín hosts the ‘Flower
Party’ which began as the city’s
celebration of its thriving floral industry
almost sixty years ago. The fiesta now
involves a week of arts, culture, cuisine
and a customary beauty pageant, all
culminating in the stunning parade of
the ‘silleteros’ - a tradition that entails
men that carry elaborate and
magnificently hued floral displays along
the main streets of the metropolis. The
origin of this ritual is Spanish and
depicts the era of the silleteros (derived
from the Spanish ‘silla’ – a seat), men
whose jobs were to would walk for
miles burdening varied cargo on their
backs - anything from their wares to sell
at a market, to their children, dignitaries
or even livestock. The term became
synonymous with anyone supporting
something on their back using a
wooden frame. This is one of
Colombia’s most visited festivals, and
many prize-winning competitions take
place, mostly centered around beauty
and colour. It’s definitely a fun filled
week if you can handle the pace, with
the added bonus of being in one of the
most celebrated and cultural cities in
Latin America.
29 July - 7 August 2016
www.feriadelasfloresmedellin.gov.co

FESTIVAL OF THE SEA
SANTA MARTA
A country’s proximity and relationship
with its natural environment fuels the
spirit and heart of a place - and a country
surrounded by earth’s biggest oceans
would enjoy an inevitably greater marine
influence. This is the case with Colombia,
where pageants and festivities revering
the sea and coastline take place year
round. The most prominent is the annual
Sea Festival in Santa Marta, the
country’s oldest city. Be prepared for non-stop partying, beauty ceremonies bursting
with eager hopefuls desperate to win National and International Queens of the Sea
accolades, plus fun water-based sports and activities, including the National Marine
and Beach Games. Women challenge for the title of Captain of the Sea, and
international athletes take part in nautical competitions including kayaking, swimming
and sailing. Lively parades fuel the party vibe as do performances by international
musicians and singers, and happy visitors can snack on traditional Antioquia dishes like
the famed bandeja paisa with pork crackling, mondongo soup and arepas. Visitors can
spend their time tanning at one of the pretty beaches by day, and revel in the
excitement of balmy nights. Thousands flock here and underline the festival’s slogan
“Santa Marta, la magia de tenerlotodo” - Santa Marta, the magic of having it all.
First week August 2016 www.fiestadelmar.com.co
GASTRONOMIC
CONGRESS
POPAYÁN
Gastronomy is developing at breakneck
speed across Colombia, having been
previously regionalised due to the
inability to safely travel and share
produce during the country’s time of
civil unrest. This meant the variety of
ingredients available to citizens used to
be dire, and most people were restricted
to the basic provisions they could gather
locally. Since then, there’s been a major
shift in culinary innovation that has seen
the popularity of Colombian cuisine
reach new highs. The UNESCO World
City of Gastronomy, Popayán, (the only city in Latin America to hold this accolade), is
famed for its Mestizaje cuisine, which is a fusion of Spanish, African and Indigenous
foods. National and international chefs are invited to host a plethora of events,
discussions and meetings, overseen by the best culinary schools in the country. This
is an event unique to South America, and is attended by thousands of global foodies
that delight in rigorous academic research of innovative new foodstuffs as well as the
more prevalent, nationally grown ingredients.
1-4 September 2016 www.gastronomicopopayan.org
WORLD SALSA
FESTIVAL
CALI
‘The capital of Salsa’ is a fitting term for
this vibrant yet petite city, located in the
Andean valleys in the east of the
country. Kicking off in a flurry of heels
and tight, sequined costumes in 2005,
the World Salsa Festival is now one of
the planet’s largest dance competitions,
and attracts global visitors that enjoy
the spectacle and partaking in the all
night contests and celebrations.
International teams hailing from Latin
America, the USA and Europe meet at
the salsa fiesta in a show of intensely
dazzling moves, hoping to be crowned
the Kings and Queens of Salsa amongst
their fierce competitors while
awe-struck spectators cheer on.
Hundreds of musicians flood the city
and fill the air with tune during this
week of aural splendor. Meanwhile
everyone is encouraged to visit one of
the hundred or more official salsa
schools in Cali, to take part in
workshops with other students, young
and old, of varying abilities and
experience.
6-10 September 2016
www.mundialdesalsa.com
GREEN MOON FESTIVAL
SAN ANDRÉS ISLAND
San Andrés forms part of the Archipelago of its namesake and the nearby islands of
Providencia and Santa Catalina, surrounded by ‘the sea of seven colours’ - declared
by UNESCO as World Biosphere Reserves due to the area’s immense biodiversity.
Islanders believe in the mysticism and magic of the ‘green moon’ and its power to
make the wishes of those who dream of it come true. This rich Caribbean culture and
miles of breathtaking coastline make it an idyllic destination and, of course, offers
more excuses to celebrate. The islander music is influenced by European colonists
and Africans, and the festival is founded of the tropical rhythms of calypso, reggae,
soul, gospel and other musical genres, combined to create a distinctly native island
sound. International performance ensembles from neighbouring Caribbean nations
such as Haiti and Jamaica are also invited to take part, with guest musicians flying in
all over the world.
Mid September 2016 www.facebook.com/fundacion.greenmoon
12 14 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

OPERA IN THE PARK
BOGOTÁ
The capital is home to the oldest standing opera house in Colombia - the Teatro de
Cristóbal Colón - ranked one of the top three in the world and declared a national
monument in 1975. Three classical radio stations - rivalled in listener numbers by Paris
only - operate within its walls to support the wider reach of this grand and respected
art-form, and entertain the thriving fan-base. The rising popularity of opera
throughout the decades culminated in Colombia’s first showcase in 2007 - now an
annual event, free for all to enter - held in the city’s spaces, public parks and outdoor
venues that were reclaimed to make culture accessible for each and every Colombian.
The Bogotá Philharmonic Orchestra feature exclusively during the opera segments,
and many national and international high profile guests are also invited to entertain
the vastly diverse audiences with their individual sounds and specially composed and
adapted pieces performed alongside more traditional works.
17-26 October 2016 www.filarmonicabogota.gov.co
INDEPENDENCE OF
CARTAGENA & MISS
COLOMBIA PAGEANT
CARTAGENA
Two aspects of Colombian living are
endemic and unite the country as a
whole: football and beauty pageants.
The city of Cartagena was the first to
gain independence from the Spanish in
1811, and the importance of this is has
been commemorated as a national
holiday of week-long celebrations
across the Caribbean municipality since
1934. The illustrious crowning of Miss
Colombia, who goes on to represent
the country at the international Miss
Universe contest, is a most prestigious
affair, with the majority of Colombians
willingly celebrating and honouring the
most beautiful, poised and intelligent
girls among the country’s population.
The prestige of being crowned winner
is wholly supported by the media, with
nightly live updates of each heat
broadcast across all the major news
networks. Contestants are judged not
only on their appearance but also their
socially conscientious outlooks,
charitable deeds and sense of
responsibility towards their fellow
women. Events during the seven days
include carnival, marine regattas, live
music concerts, and wonderfully
choreographed, show-stopping
pageants.
7-14 November 2016
www.srtacolombia.org
FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS
VILLA DE LEYVA
This quaint town of cobbled streets is
one of the prettiest and most authentic
in the country, having undergone
almost no change in the last 400 years.
As a result it has kept its colonial charm
and architecture, and offers a
wonderful destination for overseas
visitors. The month of December sees
many nationwide events leading up to
Christmas, with the Dia De Las Velitas
(day of the little candles) being one of
the loveliest. On the night of 7
December, Colombians light candles,
lanterns and bonfires all over the
country, an old tradition that originates
from 1854, which was held in honour
of the Virgin Mary and her immaculate
conception. Christmas carols, fireworks
and a procession with effigies of the
Virgin Mary create an ethereal and
uplifting welcome to the religious
holiday season - and the location of the
town just a few hours from the capital,
offers some of the clearest and
starriest sky views that can be seen
from earth.
6-8 December 2016
www.villadeleyva-boyaca.gov.co
HAY FESTIVAL
CARTAGENA
The Hay Festival - which originated in
Hay-On-Wye in Wales in 1988 - has
grown into one of the most renowned
and critically acclaimed literary festivals
in the world. In addition to hosting high
profile and emerging writers, guests and
speakers regularly include politicians,
economists, musicians, scientists,
comedians, philosophy lecturers and
film industry professionals. In 2007 the
Hay launched in Cartagena as a means
to include Nobel Prize winner Gabriel
García Márquez as star speaker. It is
rumoured that until then, he blatantly
refused invitations to attend the festival
in the UK. The launch of the Hay in
Cartagena coincided with the 40 th
anniversary of the release of Márquez’s
book, One Hundred Years of Solitude.
Nowadays the festival provides
students, journalists, members of the
public and writers from near and far an
opportunity to gather - in a wonderfully
tropical and culturing inspiring city - to
freely discuss and share ideas. Hay gives
writers a chance to meet and converse
with their literary heroes and
contemporaries, and has become the
most important literary event in Latin
America.
28-31 January 2017
www.hayfestival.com

W BOGOTA
W Bogota electrified the city's hospitality industry when it
opened in December 2014, shaking-up the capital's hotels in a
South American blender of colour, fashion, design and music.
The 46 th W hotel globally and the third in Latin America (after W
Santiago and W Mexico City) is strategically located in the
exclusive Santa Barbara business area of Colombia's throbbing
capital, within walking distance of the Usaquén neighbourhood
which boasts restaurants, bars and boutiques aplenty. Little
more than a year after premiering, W Bogota has already
established itself as the capital's coolest place to rest your
head, not to mention eat, sip, hang out and party. The brand's
DNA has very much come of age in South America's latest W
hotel. In this property, the designers, Studio Gaia, have skillfully
combined the funkiest elements of the W brand with some
slightly more grown-up touches, resulting in a playful,
happening city-centre hotel, which is perfectly balanced
between business and boogie.
The ancient rituals and precious elements of the Colombian
myth of El Rey Dorado (the golden king) are brought to life
throughout the hotel, and manifest themselves by way of bright
colours, shiny detailing and metallic finishes all over the place,
cleverly breaking-up the modern furnishings with touches of fun
and glamour. At the epicentre of the hotel’s social life is its living
room and bar, known as W Lounge, bedecked with curved
banquette seating accented by gold embellishments, separated
by floor-to-ceiling silky gold frill curtains, all presided over by a
huge piece of urban art by Vertigo Graffiti. W Lounge is
rebellious teenager, hipster socialite and fashion-forward
businessman all rolled into one. It’s impossible not to drop-in for
a cocktail upon an evening. Ginger Margarita and Lulo Mojito
are the house specialities and just too moreish to stop at one.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Culinary Concepts is behind the
hotel’s on-site restaurant, Market Kitchen, where chef Emiliano
Rabía Sottil’s farm-to-table menu doesn't disappoint, whether
you're looking for sashimi, salmon or short ribs. After dinner, if
you’re lucky enough to be staying at W Bogota, you’ll not have
far to travel after a visit to Au Room, the hotel’s chic nightclub,
where the DJ spins ‘til 5am over the weekend. In no time at all,
Au Room has already become one of the city’s hottest
nightspots.
All of the hotel's 168 guestrooms and suites feature a huge
360° mirror to check-out how fierce you look before heading out
to wherever your Bogotá night-on-the-town may take you.
Panoramic city vistas or mountain views outside the windows
provide a spectacular contrast to the modern room interiors,
attired in bright leathers, printed vinyls, patterned cushions and
gold accents. All guestrooms include a signature W Bed, Bliss
amenities and a well-equipped MixBar. For a one-bedroom suite
with sweeping uninterrupted views of the Bogotá cityscape, book
Fantastic Suite 1411. The sunsets and sunrises from this room
are incredible.
For those with serious cash to splash, the Extreme WOW
suite (W’s incarnation of a traditional presidential suite) is a
sprawling, playboy party pad, boasting multiple lounge spaces,
a central bar with foosball table, killer sound system, in-room
cinema, oversized bathtub, gold mosaicked shower and a huge,
one-of-a-kind graffiti-printed bed. W Bogota’s Extreme WOW
suite is without doubt the most glitzy hotel room in the city, in
keeping with the rest of this sophisticated slice of contemporary
Colombian hospitality.
www.sixsenses.com
16

Rest Your Head
Bogotá, Providencia Island, Medellín, Pereira, Cartagena,
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Santa Marta , Cali, Barranquilla, Apulo

PROVIDENCIA ISLAND
DEEP BLUE
Off the coast of Cartagena lie the archipelagoes of Rosario and San Bernardo, veritable coral paradises boasting mangrove islets, small
bijou hotels, restaurants and beach clubs, the best of which is El Pescador de Colores, a sea lounge & restaurant owned by Portia and Lina
on the island of Barú. If you only have time for one beach day whilst visiting the islands, make it this place www.elpescadordecolores.com.
Some 480 miles from the Colombian coast, the archipelagoes of San Andres and Providencia form an oasis of life amid the sea, with their
picturesque islands, keys and reefs. Providencia is a 15-minute flight (or 2-hour catamaran ride) from San Andres, 140 miles off Nicaragua’s
Atlantic coast but part of Colombia. Largely because of its history as a base for English pirates, Providencia is mostly English speaking. It's
on the English-speaking side of the island that you'll find Deep Blue, one of the Caribbean's hidden hotel gems, surrounded by stunning
turquoise waters on one side and lush tropical forest on the other, with gorgeous clear views towards Crab Caye from its sundecks and the
McBean Lagoon Marine National Park just 100 metres away by kayak. Deep Blue has been welcoming guests for more than 20 years, and
following a complete refurb, won Best Boutique Hotel in Colombia 2013 awarded by the Association of Colombian Travel Journalists. Once
you've visited Deep Blue and experienced the incredible location, it's not hard to see why guests return again and again. Its enviable
position, perched on the edge of the sea, is truly privileged.
Browns and creams, wood and wicker, shells and stone lend a natural vibe to the design, and in reverence to the environment, decking
and stairs have been constructed around palm trees. Attentive staff keep guests refreshed with cold towels, fans and ice cream. Deep blue
throws and pillows echo the stunning Caribbean views, while specially commissioned artworks mix with shells and starfish along the walls in
the airy, modern rooms. Embroidered textiles add a loungey, barefoot vibe. Natural stone bathrooms have oversized showers and are
stocked with L’Occitane products. Suites benefit from their own private plunge pools. Ending a lazy day by dining on fresh lobster, under the
stars at the end of the hotel's wooden jetty, is a culinary experience and sensory delight not to be missed.
www.hoteldeepblue.com
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 19

SITES
Medellín is a bustling and happening city which you are going to want to explore, experience and enjoy. Even if you
wanted to kick-back and relax in decadent luxury in Colombia's second city, you'd be unable to do so due to the
limited variety of available accommodation. Medellín is not a city of hotel penthouses, corner suites, duplex lofts and
designer crash pads. The city has only recently woken-up to tourism, and so it will be a few more years before any of
the 5* deluxe hotel chains land in Pablo Escobar's former stomping ground. Anyway, when visiting a city of such rich
and colourful heritage - not to mention such a dramatic and tumultuous recent past - your lodgings need only be
somewhere to wake, change, drop-off shopping, refresh, catch-up with emails and rest your head.
Whilst there are a few good 4* hotels in the city (the best of which is Park 10 www.hotelpark10.com.co), plus a
cluster of well-located, style-led, wannabe-boutique hotels in the epicentre of the Parque Lleras melting pot (the best
of which is The Charlee - although don't book a room here unless you plan to party www.thecharlee.com), you really
don't need to be paying over the odds for a room you're unlikely to use for little more than bathing and sleeping. We
are in Colombia after all - and Piasas know how to have fun, even midweek! So The Cultured Traveller suggests,
when visiting Medellín, that you find a funky flat on Airbnb or book into a modern self-catering apartment hotel which
is functional, central and serves a hearty breakfast so you don't start a busy day of sightseeing on an empty
stomach. Sites ticks all these boxes and is located in El Poblado, one of the most exclusive and quiet areas of the
busy metropolis, yet surrounded by malls, shops and restaurants and ideally placed for discovering all the charms
and attractions of Medellín.
Staff are warm, knowledgeable and friendly and all rooms offer king size beds, a pillow menu, free Wi-Fi, large
screen Smart TVs and kitchenettes with a fridge and microwave. At 60m², Sites' apartment category resembles a
conventional hotel suite, with two bathrooms, a separate lounge with fold-out queen size bed, full kitchen and
balcony, plus a main bedroom with 400-thread count bed linen.
At the top of the building on the 12 th floor, a wellness area consisting of a solarium, Jacuzzi and Turkish bath is
available for guests to relax after a hectic day, plus there's a fully equipped gym, BBQ terrace, library (not that you'll
have a spare moment in Medellín), conference room and plenty of indoor parking for the hire car you'll probably need
to zip around the city.
www.en.siteshotel.com
PEREIRA
20 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

MEDELLÍN
SAZAGUA
Colombia’s coffee region is filled with hotels, but most are rustic lodgings occupying former haciendas, a little rough
around the edges when it comes to guest amenities and somewhat lacking on the luxury front. We can't
recommend any of these to our readers. But if you venture deeper into the heart of Triángulo del Café (the Coffee
Triangle), to the Colombian Paisa region in the country’s rural district, famous for the growing and production of the
majority of Colombian coffee (considered by some as the best in the world), you will reach Sazagua which offers
an altogether different level of hospitality, far above the average standard for the area.
Located in Pereira - the most visited city in the Municipality of Risaralda - 10-bedroom Sazagua is an upscale
guesthouse for special travellers. Designed with care, decorated with love, furnished with style and filled with the kind
of personal touches and amenities that appeal to high-end international travellers, tired of shiny, cookie-cutter 5-star
hotels, a few nights at Sazagua is more akin to staying at a friend's warm and inviting home rather than a pit stop.
The building evokes the local architecture: wooden framed, spacious corridors, colonial flooring, Spanish tiles,
vibrant colors and plenty of natural light. The decor is eclectic and fanciful, combining furnishings and objets d'art
from different time periods and countless locations around the globe. Married with an interesting art collection, the
result is playful, entertaining and overall supremely homely. Rooms and suites are individual, comfortable, refined
and surrounded by rolling lawns and spectacular well-tended gardens, featuring an array of beautiful palms and
tropical plants that attract a wide variety of birds. At the end of the garden is the unique and highly regarded Prana
spa, fashioned from large river rocks and awash with natural stone, wood and bamboo. Fountains and soft lighting
accents contribute to an all round feeling of relaxation and calm, and its treatment rooms (including one for
couples) adjoin a large circular whirlpool bath, relaxation room, sauna and steam cabin. Sazagua’s restaurant is
perhaps one of the best eateries in the region. Fine crockery and glassware accompany an international menu with
some added Colombian dishes, and service is swift and friendly, as it is throughout the property. The room to book
is the spacious Premium Suite - with a library, private terrace and massive bathroom - costing USD 200/night
during high season.
www.sazagua.com

SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA
Constantly name-checked by seasoned travellers, international
jet-setters and upwardly mobile hipsters as the only place to
stay in the old city (declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in
1984), the colonial Sofitel Legend Santa Clara stands tall
perched behind the northerly edge of the old fortress walls
surrounding picturesque Cartagena. The hotel was carved from
the shell of a 17 th century convent for the Nuns of the Order of
St. Claire, known as the ‘Clarisas’, and from a location point of
view, Santa Clara's really is one of the best addresses in
Cartagena. It's central position, on the edge of a quaint square
in the San Diego neighbourhood - is at the epicentre of the city,
within a few minutes walk of all that's hot and happening. This
is an undeniable draw to wealthy South Americans and tourists
alike, wanting to stay in the thick of things, whilst being able to
escape from the heated melange and be immersed in 5* luxury
and plush surroundings when the need arises.
Originally built in 1621, the historic Spanish architecture is
offset throughout by contemporary chic decor, with modern
designer touches and numerous works by Colombia’s greatest
artists breaking-up the imposing structure, making Santa Clara
both a gorgeous and cozy place to rest your head. The hotel
retains many of the building’s original features, and upon arrival
- after being greeted by a white-suited, top-hatted Clef D’Or
concierge - should they wish, guests are escorted on a
fascinating tour of the property’s historical treasures, including
hidden windows, priceless paintings, confessionals and even
cannon balls recovered from pirate attacks. We especially love
Olga de Amaral’s shimmering gold leaf tapestry in the entrance,
Fernando Botero’s chubby bronze on the patio, and the
toucans in the courtyard, brimming with tropical plants and
crowded with vines. It is little wonder that Santa Clara has
hosted many heads of state and pop stars, and the rich and
famous continue to flood through its huge, ancient wooden
doors.
Rooms are either contemporary or colonial in design, split
between those in the old convent building and the rest flanking
the swimming pool in the converted hospital wing. The best of
these are on the top floor with views of the Caribbean Sea.
Santa Clara's premium accommodations are its 17
recently-refurbished high-ceilinged suites that face onto the
central courtyard. Duplex suite C54 boasts two Juliet balconies
that open directly onto the picturesque square below and
unobstructed views towards Castillo San Felipe de Barajas,
Cartagena's famous fortress. Small touches for guests - like a
ribboned and gift-wrapped copy of Gabriel García Márquez’s Of
Love and Other Demons (set in the convent) waiting in your
suite on arrival - quickly endear you to the charismatic hotel.
The former home of the renowned Colombian author
neighbours the hotel. And once you realise that you can stroll
back from pretty much any club or bar late at night, the charms
of Santa Clara are even more alluring. This is one hotel which
anyone visiting Colombia should experience, budget permitting
of course, since such luxuries and attention to detail do not
come cheap. At Santa Clara however, spending for such
supreme luxury and incredible service is worth every peso.
www.sofitel-legend.com
22

CARTAGENA

BOGOTÁ
THE ORCHIDS
The elegance and beauty of Colombia’s national flower are embodied at the eponymous
Orchids hotel, located in the city’s cultural district of La Candelaria in downtown Bogotá.
The hotel’s location in this historic neighborhood, brimming with baroque and colonial
buildings, means that many attractions are within easy walking distance, including Museo
del Oro (Gold Museum), Museo Botero and Luis Ángel Arango Library - Latin America’s
most visited public library and a must for literary aficionados.
The traditional entrance of this boutique establishment - residing amongst the colourful
architectural landscape of Bogotá’s oldest district - subtly disguises the opulent
accommodation beyond the imposing front door. Visitors ring a bell and wait to be
permitted to enter Orchids, such is its exclusivity.
Built in 1892 as a house, the building was transformed into a hotel in 2009. The decor
in Orchids’ eight, spacious and individually-designed rooms is neo-classical, with each
being named after a famous opera. All feature wooden panelling, art nouveau carved
headboards, stately furniture, Murano pieces, a working fireplace, silver-embroidered
linens, dining table and oversized Jacuzzi bath. Natural light is plentiful. French, British
and Italian influences abound, renaissance artwork an ode to the operatic theme. All are a
touch French boudoir. The contrast of modern bathrooms and antiques is a little curious
but at the same time playful and inviting.
The hotel’s premium suite, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, is furnished with an intricately
carved four-poster bed that majestically resides beneath an impressively high, embossed
ceiling, providing a grand place to slumber for guests of an imperial persuasion. A private
plane, as well as butler and personal shopping services, can be made available to those
desiring a truly indulgent stay.
Enjoy an afternoon of calm in the Oscar Wilde library, or spend an evening sipping the
local staple santafereño - a rich, hot-chocolate beverage served with cheese - in the
hotel’s Marcel Proust courtyard. Whilst Orchids doesn’t have a dedicated onsite
restaurant, meals prepared by celebrated chef, Harry Sasson, can be ordered à la carte
and served in the Rossini Dining Room, an elegant space capable of seating up to 24
people for a social event or private dinner party.
www.theorchidshotel.com
24 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

CRA. 11 #93-77, BOGOTÁ, CUNDINAMARCA - TEL : 57 (1) 743 04 04 facebook.com/clickclackhotel @clickclackhotel

CARTAGENA
BASTION
The Bastion opened just a couple of years ago located in the heart of the old walled city, a delightful mix of traditional architecture,
contemporary design and modern styling within a four storey 18th century colonial house. Stepping into the Bastion is a little magical,
because its unassuming exterior conceals a surprisingly large, airy and inviting reception. Since the main characteristics of the original
house have been skilfully retained, the principal entrance, salon and lobby remain in the same positions as they were when the building was
first erected. Once inside the hotel, tiled floors, tall windows and soaring ceilings make the most of the space and create a cool, relaxing
vibe, whilst plentiful chandeliers, wrought iron detailing and oversized sofas contribute to the warm, comforting and restful aura. Guests are
mostly fabulous New York couples, upwardly mobile European tourists and fashionable South American families.
The hotel’s 51 rooms and suites are dressed in neutral hues, with fabrics and furnishings courtesy of Colombian designers. The interiors
are light and fresh with high ceilings that are framed in hand-carved wooden posts by local artisans, offering a cool space to relax from the
tropical climate outside. All doors, blinds and carpentry work have been fashioned out of recycled wood from the original building, and the
superb beds boast crisp sheets, soft mattress toppers and numerous pillows. Views are either of the Caribbean Sea, city rooftops or the
pretty, central, naturally lit courtyard.
Subtle lighting and a bijou pool in the main courtyard hint at the Middle East, albeit with a neoclassical flavour, and a number of elegant
art pieces and striking sculptures are dotted around the property, breaking up the pristine décor with eye-catching artistic delight.
Enjoy breakfast through to sundowners on Bastion’s splendid roof terrace - a Cartagena classic - which boasts panoramic vistas of the
surrounding area. Or cool off by the pool with a delicious cocktail selected from the hotel’s comprehensive drinks menu. There’s a spa and
massage area for guests to relax and unwind - as well as an onsite gym and solarium - complete with a tantalising range of pampering
possibilities.
For a delicious onsite gastronomical experience, hotel guests need only walk a few paces to feast on the creative cooking of the
much-celebrated Rausch brothers, at their renowned El Gobernador restaurant. Here dishes are prepared using local ingredients and
modern techniques and lovingly delivered to the table like works of art.
www.bastionluxuryhotel.com
26 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

CASA GALAVANTA
Tayrona National Park extends to almost 100 miles
between the deep blue waters of the Caribbean
stretching North to the horizon, and the tallest
mountain range in Colombia, the Sierra Nevada de
Santa Marta. Thick misty jungles, snowcapped
peaks, rare and unusual creatures, ancient lost cities
and isolated indigenous cultures have steeped these
mountains in myth and intrigue since they were first
discovered by conquering Spanish invaders. The
Kogi people are among only a handful of
pre-Colombian civilisations in the Sierra Nevada de
Santa Marta whose culture and way of life survived
the Spanish conquest. The Kogi regard their
mountainous homeland as the heart of the world.
Rising to more than 5,700 meters above the blue
waters of the Caribbean Sea only 26 miles away,
the Sierra Nevada is the highest coastal mountain
range on Earth and its diverse ecologies and
isolation at the edge of the continent make it
geographically, biologically and culturally unique for
people who live there and visit. Casa Galavanta is a
private wooden lodge sitting at 1,500masl in the
heart of this lushness, between dense rainforest and
coffee fields, accessible by only the toughest of 4x4
vehicles and an experienced driver. This makes
getting to the house all the more thrilling, as the
vehicle in which you're travelling shudders, leans
and bumps its way up the hillside. This is not a
journey for the faint-hearted but is well worth the
theatrical ride. From Casa Galavanta's sprawling
timber decks, guests enjoy breathtaking vistas of the
wild surrounding jungle and clear views of the sea
beyond. These are jaw-dropping vistas, which
showcase the incredible variety in landscapes,
climates and surroundings that Colombia has to offer.
The ecology surrounding Casa Galavanta is
particularly special, due to the dramatic cloud forest
formations that hover around the house, sheltering
an amazing diversity of flora and fauna, making this
is a world renowned destination for birdwatchers,
who frequent the region to glimpse more than 600
bird species.
Inside, Casa Galavanta has been designed to
offer a high level of comfort whilst preserving the
view and impact of its glorious natural surroundings.
The house skillfully blends into its location and
makes the very best of its unique position. During
The Cultured Traveller’s stay at this one-of-a-kind
vacation home, we affectionately renamed it the
‘luxury tree house in the sky’, since at times -
especially when a flood of clouds rose up from the
valley below and rolled into the house - it honestly
felt like we were part of the sky. Three double
bedrooms en-suite - each decked out with premium
linen, deep duvets, oversized pillows and a
traditional hammock in which to laze and gaze -
provided ample space for three couples to share the
Casa Galavanta experience. Meanwhile a full-time
chef, English-speaking host and housekeeper were
on hand (but not resident) to care for our every
need. The only thing we lacked during our stay was
decent Wi-Fi, but once we caught sight of the
tremendous views and soaked in the magnificent
environmental beauty, we didn’t give a second
thought to the digital world.
www.galavanta.com
28

SIERRA NEVADA DE SANTA MARTA

SANTA MARTA
HOTEL BOUTIQUE
DON PEPE
Ten years ago you'd rarely see a tourist in
Santa Marta, South America's oldest
surviving city. At best it was used as a
stopover point for visitors looking to trek
through Tayrona National Park or hike to
the Lost City. Guerrillas controlled the city
and it wasn't entirely safe for locals let
alone visitors. Santa Marta's
transformation began with a government
crackdown on illegal drug and paramilitary
activity, and the efforts paid off. Perhaps
the best monument to the city’s rebirth is
the gleaming marina that anchors the
waterfront; huge, visually spectacular and
capable of handling more than 250 yachts,
it wouldn’t look out of place in Dubai. Away
from the seafront, the city abounds with
Spanish colonial charm. Following the
pedestrianisation of some streets off
Parque Simón Bolívar, and the renovation
of Parque de los Novios next to Santa
Marta's most historic monuments, the city
centre has gained a lot more charm and
tourism is on the up. The climate is still
hot, but the heat here is drier than
Cartagena and the evening sea breeze
cools the city and makes it positively
delightful to wander around. The city’s
reputation as an up-and-coming party spot
is also growing, with new bars and clubs
opening regularly.
In the very centre of Santa Marta, just
two blocks from the seafront, is a
wonderful 12-room house spread over
three floors, originally a 16 th century
convent. Now owned by Juan Ignacio, son
of Don Pepe Vives who purchased the
house twenty years ago, this beautiful
example of classic colonial architecture is
Hotel Boutique Don Pepe. Pretty much
every palm-fringed inch of this delightful
boutique hotel presents a tempting
opportunity to stop, disconnect and drop
out. Be it on a swinging hammock in a
quiet corner, in an oversized armchair on
the terrace, on a deep-buttoned sun
lounger by the pool or lying on a massage
table in the hotel’s airy Pevonia spa. Come
late afternoon, sunset cocktails cool down
guests as a gentle breeze whips up from
the bay just a few hundred metres away.
Dinner at onsite Bacota restaurant delivers
tasty dishes bursting with international
flavours, creatively composed using local
ingredients, and served by friendly,
attentive staff. In a city which is relatively
new to tourists compared to the rest of
Colombia, Hotel Boutique Don Pepe is
doing everything just right.
www.facebook.com/hotelboutiquedonpepe
30 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

ACQUA SANTA
CALI
Colombia’s third largest city, Santiago de Cali, is located in the
country’s southwestern region and was founded in 1536 by
Sebastián de Belalcázar. It was a sleepy little mountain town until
sugar and coffee brought prosperity to the region. After drug
kingpin Pablo Escobar was killed in 1993 and the Medellín Cartel
fell apart, the remaining drug traffickers moved to Cali and formed
the Cali Cartel. Nowadays Cali is the sporting capital of Colombia,
with three 18-hole golf courses, two 9-hole courses and countless
opportunities for adventure sports in local parks, hills and
mountains close by. Of course Cali is also most famous for being
the city of the sultry salsa dance, and is renowned for its hot,
spirited and sexually charged dance floors. Cali is where the
Salsa World Championships happen and where more salsa is
danced socially in the world today. It would be criminal to visit Cali
and not drop into one of the city’s many salsa clubs for an evening
of Caribbean rhythm danced in Colombians’ own unique way.
Situated in the exclusive Ciudad Jardin garden neighbourhood,
in the southernmost part of Cali yet within easy reach of the city
centre, Acqua Santa is surrounded by lush greenery and stunning
natural vegetation. This part of Cali is home to some of the
wealthiest Colombians, and so Acqua Santa is something of a find
in such a distinguished neighbourhood. This exceptional little
boutique hotel offers individually-designed lofts laden with
facilities, with a choice of six duplex or single-storey units, all of
which are generously proportioned, light, bright and airy. Each is
equipped with the modern traveller in mind, and includes
iPad-controlled room electronics, full entertainment system,
private terrace and personal hot tub. Most also boast
well-appointed kitchens - though the delicious meals served at the
onsite Italian restaurant are temptation enough not to cook. Room
rates include a charming and nourishing element: a
cooked-to-order breakfast, served any time on any day, for the
duration of your stay.
www.acquasantahotel.com

MOVICH BURÓ 51
Known as the Golden Gate of the Atlantic, Barranquilla was not an especially popular vacation destination in the past. However present
day local municipality commitments, to elevate the quality of guest accommodation and services throughout the city, are rapidly changing
this. The recent multi-million dollar investment in the country’s carnival capital by Colombian hotel operators, Movich, is proving to be a
boom to the city’s tourism sector, guiding it towards a bigger and brighter future.
Movich Buró 51 has been one of the most important projects for the chain, since Barranquilla has had one of the highest economic
growth rates of any Colombian city in recent years. Movich works with leading Portuguese interior designer, Nini Andrade Silva, and Buró
51 was her eighth hospitality project for the rapidly expanding chain. The hotel is located in an exclusive part of the city, Buenavista, an
area with the most modern infrastructure and therefore an important commercial, business and residential hub. The exterior of the
property created quite a stir in local hospitality circles, since it presented an interesting and dramatically different architectural style to that
of other properties locally. Palms and a colourful floral frontage welcome guests. Inside the design is radically different to what is usually
seen in Barranquilla’s tropical setting. Artworks and sculptures abound and the designer has used wood, leather, metal and a multitude of
other finishes to create a polished and slick property. The hotel consists of 150 elegant yet functional rooms, including seven junior suites,
a presidential suite and a VIP lounge located on the executive floor. An in-house spa, with Turkish bath and sauna, offers a multitude of
therapies, and the rooftop pool and terrace offer guests panoramic, uninterrupted views of the city.
www.movichhotels.com
32

BARRANQUILLA

ENTREMONTE WELLNESS HOTEL & SPA
Literally meaning ‘between mountains’, Entremonte is a wellness
sanctuary surrounded by vivid green flora, wild orchids and
mountain-pure air, tucked-in at the foot of the Apulo mountains,
480masl and just a two-hour drive from Bogotá's El Dorado Airport.
The first inhabitants of this hilly region teeming with macaws, was
the Panches Síquima tribe, that resided at the confluence of the
rivers Apulo and Bogotá. The natural beauty and un-spoilt richness
of the green and lush landscape remain to this day, as the area is
infrequently visited by tourists.
Entremonte is Colombia's only dedicated wellness hotel and spa,
devoted to re-harmonising your body with nature, through sunrise,
sunset and zenith yoga sessions plus personalised spa treatments.
Each of Entremonte's 29 thatched cabanas feature a bio-climactic
roof, designed to eliminate the need for air-conditioning, along with
an interior garden and a small private heated pool.
On-site facilities include the Water Valley hydrotherapy area - with
an outdoor swimming pool, sauna, hammam and Jacuzzi - and the
serene Guacamayas spa area, offering a range of treatments and
therapies. Outdoor activities available on the property or close by
include yoga and tai-chi, cycling, walking, mountain biking and
hiking. There's even golf nearby for those who wish to use their
down time to improve their handicap.
As one might expect from a wellness retreat, the cuisine at
Entremonte is healthy and balanced, designed by experts and
prepared with the highest quality organic and natural produce.
Needless to say fizzy drinks and fried food never appear on the
menu! Most ingredients used are harvested from the on-site
vegetable garden, or bought directly from peasant communities in
the area. This enables Entremonte’s chef to serve food that is fresh
and delicious, to perfectly compliment the delightful surrounding
environment and warm climate.
www.entremonte.com
34

APULO

BOGOTÁ
COLOMBIA’S HIGH ALTITUDE HIGH OCTANE CAPITAL
WRITTEN BY NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU
Even
E
a seasoned traveller doesn't quite know what to
expect when venturing to Colombia for the first time.
One would be unwise to visit any South American
country - especially one with such a turbulent past -
without some degree of preparation and a touch of
trepidation. My maiden visit to Colombia was also my first
experience of Latin America so it was a whole new world for
me. South America had always seemed just a little too far
away, both in terms of flying and civilisation, so it wasn't on
my list of immediate must visit places. But my first time in
Bogotá - a year ago via Miami - was an eye opener and
hooked me sufficiently to necessitate a more leisurely return.
There's a fine line between a drug cartel war zone and a
funky cosmopolitan city, and it was obvious, that first visit,
that Bogotá was the latter. Whilst not conventionally pretty
and not immediately captivating like Cartagena, Colombia's
capital is a veritable treasure trove of culture, brimming with
artistic gems spread between its colourful neighbourhoods,
Whilst not conventionally pretty or
immediately captivating like Cartagena,
Colombia's capital is a veritable treasure trove
of culture, brimming with artistic gems spread
between its colourful neighbourhoods.
CATEDRAL PRIMADA
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 37

PLAZA DE BOLÍVAR
LA CANDELARIA
LA CANDELARIA
and the country’s thriving gastronomy scene has led to a
boom in upscale eateries in Bogotá.
This trip I flew direct from London and the journey time
was less than 11 hours so Colombia felt closer and more
accessible than previously. Flying direct to a new destination
is always advisable - since you disembark less frazzled and
more susceptible to new experiences - and since Bogotá is a
busy, modern metropolis you need to have your wits about
you. At roughly 8,700 feet above sea level, the city’s 8 million
inhabitants live,
work and play
here and move
around the streets
with haste. You’ll
rarely see
someone loitering
in Bogotá since
most people are in
the city to do business. Many of them also shop in high-end
boutiques and eat very well indeed. Judging by some of the
looks I got when walking the streets, Colombia's high altitude
capital doesn't revolve around foreign visitors. Everything is
for locals and tourists, in many parts of the city, are not two a
penny. This is refreshing if you're looking to experience a
genuine South American city. Photography is not permitted in
Bogotá's splendid churches and you won't get pestered by
street hawkers. Armed guards positioned around the
presidential palace are polite and helpful - some even pose for
photos. But things get a little tricky if, like me, you don't
speak a word of Spanish, since the nation's capital is not
38 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016
especially tourist savvy. The first time I visited Bogotá the SIM
buying process was painful and I wasted an entire morning of
my first day in a 'phone shop. Some taxi drivers can also be a
bit sharp with tourists so you need to be aware. Thankfully on
this trip I was staying at W Bogota, so the hotel's efficient
WhateverWhenever service pre-organised a SIM before I
checked-in, and the in-house car service took me everywhere I
wanted to go for USD12/hour in an SUV. But if you're not
staying at an international 5* you must do some prep work
before landing at
El Dorado airport,
The city’s 8 million inhabitants live, work and play
here and move around the streets with haste.
You’ll rarely see someone loitering in Bogotá since
most people are in the city to do business.
especially if you
want to hit the
ground running
and make the most
of your time in the
capital of
Colombian cool.
To understand Bogotá's scale (in South America only São
Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Buenos Aires are bigger cities),
head up to Monserrate (www.cerromonserrate.com), a
religious sanctuary set in lush forested mountains
overlooking the Colombian capital. Take the funicular to the
summit and find yourself with Bogotá’s vast urban frenzy
on one side and the virtually deserted green Andes on the
other. Monserrate's 17 th century church is rather pretty.
Order a glass of wine at 35-year old mountaintop restaurant
Casa San Isidro (www.restaurantecasasanisidro.com) and
soak-in the majestic views. Descend using the recently
refurbished footpath - it's a lovely downhill walk.

MUSEO BOTERO
CASA DE NARIÑO
PLAZA DE BOLÍVAR
Once you’ve got your bearings, your first city stop must
be La Candelaria, Bogotá's charming historic quarter, named
after one of the city’s first churches, Our Lady of the
Candlemas. Here, stretches of urban jungle give way to a
centuries-old barrio of cobblestoned streets and brightly
coloured colonial buildings. Restored one and two-storey
pastel painted houses are interspersed with restaurants,
boutique hotels, stylish bars, bijou art galleries and cafés
serving chicha, a potent hooch distilled from maize. Once
derided as
unrefined, chicha
has become
increasingly
popular in
Colombia, with
several chicherías
operating in the
area. These along
with elderly men playing backgammon on the pavements,
women swathed in blankets selling alpaca sweaters on the
tight teeming streets, and the abundance of characterful
architecture topped with Spanish-style tiled roofs, all lend an
old village atmosphere to the area. For me Candelaria feels
like the most authentic part of Bogotá. You can easily spend
a few days mooching around and soaking in the addictive,
lively atmosphere here. This is not a part of the city you
want to rush through, not least because many of Bogotá’s
principal cultural institutions are huddled in Candelaria or
very close by. The 123-year-old Teatro de Cristóbal Colón,
the country's national opera house, was designed by Italian
architect Pietro Cantini and its neo-classical facade sits
comfortably within Candelaria. The grand old theatre
reopened a year ago after more than a half-decade of
renovation. The ceiling mural is breathtaking. Housed in a
handsome villa nearby and free to the public, the Botero
Museum opened 15 years ago after the Medellín-born artist,
Fernando Botero, donated 208 works - 123 of his own plus 85
by international painters - to the Bank of the Republic’s art
collection. Here you can see works by Renoir, Monet and
Picasso as well as
a huge collection
The Gold Museum is home to the largest collection
of pre-Colombian gold artifacts in the world, and
here you can trace the history of the precious metal
and how it shaped a religion and nation.
of Boteros. The
modern sunny
café out back is
the perfect place
for a pit stop in
between walking
the museum's
galleries. Across the road, Biblioteca Luis Ángel Arango is
Latin America’s most visited public library and a must for
literary aficionados. Nearby Museo del Oro (the gold
museum) is home to the largest collection of pre-Colombian
gold artifacts in the world. Here you can trace the history of
the precious metal and how it shaped a religion and nation.
Seeing the incredibly intricate "la balsa Muisca" (the Muisca
raft) is a must. During ancient ceremonies, Muisca chiefs,
covered in gold dust, would drop lavish gold objects into the
water as offerings to their gods. Get a caffeine fix from the
museum's in-house San Alberto café which serves the best
coffee in the city (www.cafesanalberto.com/en). Across the

IGLESIA DE SAN AGUSTIN
street you will find the Fundación Museo Internacional de la
Esmeralda (International Emerald Foundation Museum).
About 60% of the world's emeralds come from Colombia,
and there are a multitude of opportunities to buy them in
Bogotá. The museum includes a simulation mine, exhibition
room showcasing a huge variety of emeralds and an enticing
jewellery shop. Also worth a quick look-see is Museo
Nacional, the largest and oldest museum in the country. A
sprawling, three-story structure dedicated to Colombia's art
and history, the massive building was once a prison and the
museum's night watchmen swear it’s haunted. The
museum is adjacent to Bogotá's Moorish-style bullfighting
arena - Plaza de Toros de Santamaría - where most of the
action takes place in January and February. 10 blocks away
and within easy walking distance is the Plaza de Bolívar,
Bogotá's main square, bordered by a mishmash of
architecture, at it's center an 1846 statue of Simon Bolivar,
the city's first public monument. The vibrant plaza is dotted
with pigeons, food vendors, entertainers, political protesters
and old men in colourful, traditional outfits who will let
you take a photo of them - and their llamas - for a small fee.
On the southern side of the square is the National Capitol,
the centre of the Colombian congress. On the western side is
Lievano Palace, a French-style building which serves as the
seat of the mayor of Bogotá. Built between 1807 and 1823,
Bogotá's beautiful baroque Catedral Primada on the
southern side of the square is the biggest cathedral in
Colombia and one of the largest in South America. The
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 41

huge, modern concrete Palace of Justice is located on the
northern side of the square. In 1985, 35 members of the
April 19 Movement, known as M-19, stormed the previous
court that stood here and seized hundreds of hostages.
More than 100 people - including 11 Supreme Court justices
and all but one of the guerrillas - died in a 28-hour siege
that gutted the structure.
Between the bullring and Andes lies barrio La Macarena,
a hilly neighbourhood lined with turquoise, pink and orange
buildings which was off limits last decade but is now
saturated with bohemian charm and eclectic cuisine. Its
quiet, tree-lined streets are populated by fashionable
restaurants, pavement cafes, workshops, galleries and
boutiques, the air of downtown obscurity attracting a hip
in-the-know crowd not dissimilar to Greenwich Village in
NYC. Macarena was the trailblazer of Bogotá's foodie scene
and there are at least a dozen restaurants here where you can
get an excellent meal. Of them tapas restaurant Donostia is
standout and perfect for lunch
(www.elorigendelacomida.co/donostia/).
Bogotá boasts a huge range of bars and restaurants to suit
all tastes and wallets, and the city's flourishing culinary
scene has quite rightly been commanding many
international column inches of late. The Colombian capital is
home to some of the best restaurants in South America,
providing ample opportunities to eat incredibly well.
Sophisticated eateries abound presided over by immensely
talented chefs, none more so than Leonor Espinosa's
fine-dining establishment, Leo Cocina y Cava, the setting of
the best meal of my two-week Colombian journey and one of
the 50 Best Restaurants in Latin America. Leo's dining room
successfully juxtaposes understated luxury with a touch of
42

formality, old school Colombian love songs taking the edge
off the proceedings and adding an authentic charm. If you
have the budget for just one fancy dinner in Bogotá be sure
it's at Leo. Choose one of the tasting menus (there are two)
rather than ordering à la carte to really experience Espinosa’s
passion for Colombian cuisine. A tasting menu including
wine is around USD 75 per person and worth every peso
(www.leococinaycava.com). After dinner head to Zona G,
Zona Rosa or Zona T, all of which are prime areas for finding
an expertly made cocktail. Colombians love to go out, drink
and dance - often a few times a week, especially during
festive periods - so Bogotá’s nightlife scene is thriving with
cool places to hang out ‘til the early hours. Of all the city's
nightspots, Andrés DC, located in Bogotá’s upscale and
touristy Zona T in the north east of the capital, is a fun,
sprawling four-storey venue open for lunch and dinner
seven days a week. This is a crazy place where every day is
Halloween, someone's birthday and New Year’s Eve all rolled
into one, and no trip to Bogotá is complete without a night
here. It's rowdy, noisy and absolutely outrageous. This is not
the place for an intimate dinner or a business lunch. This is a
place to make noise, be a bit silly and laugh. Bands of roving
troubadours move from table to table serenading diners with
musical instruments and songs. At any moment all the
waiting staff might line up and perform a choreographed
routine completely without warning, or a group of clowns
parade in and perform an inappropriate routine. Even though
the restaurant is a truly huge venue, it always fills up quickly
so make a reservation. If there's one place a tourist should
visit in Bogotá to eat, drink and be merry before leaving the
city, it's this Colombian wining, dining and partying
institution (www.andrescarnederes.com).

PRIZE DRAW
STAY
W BOGOTA
Located in the exclusive Santa Barbara business district of Colombia's throbbing capital
- within walking distance of the Usaquén neighborhood featuring numerous
restaurants, bars and boutiques - W Bogota is the capital's coolest hotel and the perfect
place to rest your head, eat, sip, hang out and party. At the centre of the hotel’s social
scene is its living room and cocktail bar, known as W Lounge, whilst the hotel’s on-site
restaurant, Market Kitchen, is presided over by culinary maestro, Jean-Georges
Vongerichten. Dance until the early hours at Au Room nightclub, re-energize at the
hotel's well-equipped FIT gym, take a dip in the heated indoor pool, or get pampered at
AWAY spa. The hotel's 168 modern guest rooms and suites are decorated in bright
leathers, printed vinyls, patterned cushions and gold accents and boast panoramic city
vistas or mountain views outside huge windows (www.wbogota.com).
WIN A 3-NIGHT STAY IN W BOGOTA'S EXTREME WOW SUITE, the biggest suite in
the hotel - boasting incredible views, upscale urban design, separate sleeping, living
and dining areas and cutting edge technology. This prize is for two people and the
lucky winner will be welcomed at W Bogota in the EXTREME WOW SUITE with a
bottle of sparkling wine, given a USD100 credit to use at Market Kitchen restaurant and
feast every morning on the hotel's extended breakfast buffet.
To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, email and mobile number) to
WIN@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM.
Prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw
will take place on 31 March 2016 and the winner will be notified first week of April 2016. This prize
can be used until 31 December 2016, subject to availability. Rest assured The Cultured Traveller will
not share your contact details with third parties.
44

PRIZE
WORTH
USD6,500!
EXTREME WOW SUITE, W BOGOTA

MUSEO DEL ORO
46

SEE
MUSEO DEL ORO
The Gold Museum's huge collection has been declared a national monument and is
reputed to be the largest in the world, consisting of 34,000 pieces of gold and 20,000
objects of bone, stone, ceramics and textiles. In addition to showcasing priceless ancient
gold relics, the second floor tells the political story of the people who made many of the
exhibits, and the third floor explains their associated ceremonial and religious beliefs.
www.banrepcultural.org/gold-museum
GUATAVITA
About an hour’s drive 35 miles north-east of Bogotá, sacred Guatavita Lake is the home
of the legend of El Dorado. The story says that the Muisca Indian tribal chief, El
Dorado, covered in gold dust, would arrive at the lake on a raft with four priests
together with the gold offerings from his community. After throwing the offerings into
the lake to honour their gods, the chief would then bathe in the lake. Guatavita lake and
town are among the best places to enjoy Colombian small town hospitality.
www.colombia.travel
ZIPAQUIRÁ SALT CATHEDRAL
Located approximately an hour north of Bogotá, this cathedral carved out of solid rock
salt 180 metres underground, is the centerpiece of a halite mine that has been active
since the 5th century B.C. Over the millennia, the salt from this mine has generated
wealth for those who controlled it, from the Muisca people through to the liberators
Narino and Bolivar who financed their revolutions selling salt. Although Zipaquirá is
one of countless salt mines in the world, its salt cathedral is one of only two on the
planet, the other being in Poland.
www.catedraldesal.gov.co/en/

TASTE
For upscale dining head to leafy, prosperous Zona G (the Gourmet Zone), where you'll
find everything from elaborate, award-winning French gastronomy courtesy of the
Rausch brothers at Criterion (www.hermanosrausch.com), to high-end Peruvian
cuisine at superstar chef Gastón Acurio’s eponymous restaurant, Astrid & Gastón,
co-run with his wife (www.astridygastonbogota.com). These restaurants, along with
Leo Cocina y Cava (www.leococinaycava.com) produce some of the best plates in the
city and all feature on the distinguished list of Latin America’s 50 best restaurants
(www.theworlds50best.com/latinamerica/en/).
In La Candelaria, Mi Viejo has been serving fine Argentine fare since 1998
(www.miviejo.co), El Gato Gris is a cute two-storey restaurant overlooking the original
neighbourhood square (www.gatogris.com), and El Son de los Grillos, one of the city’s
oldest restaurants, serves traditional Colombian dishes accompanied by live chamber
music (www.elsondelosgrillos.com).
At Donostia in Macarena, chef Tomás Rueda serves an innovative mix of Spanish
cuisine cooked with Colombian ingredients. Install yourself on the long brown leather
banquette which runs the length of the dining room and feast on substantial,
lovingly-prepared tapas (www.elorigendelacomida.co/donostia).
In the Santa Barbara business district, chef Emiliano Rabía Sottil’s modern American
farm-to-table dishes at Market Kitchen don't disappoint, whether you're looking for
sashimi, salmon or short ribs. (www.marketkitchenbogota.com).
At Matiz in Chico, Le Cordon Bleu Peru graduate, Chilean chef Nicolás Quintano,
combines his visual arts background with new cooking techniques to create impeccably
presented gourmet dishes bursting with complex flavours.
(www.matizrestaurante.com).
48

ANDEAN TUBERS, CONCH, MACADAMIA NUT, BASUL BEAN SPROUTS, TAMARILLO, SWEET CUCUMBER
LEO COCINA Y CAVA

The
Privately owned and personally managed contemporary and inviting restaurant,
bar, garden and private dining room, on Kings Road in the heart of Chelsea in London.
Our kitchen never closes. Every day of the week you can enjoy innovative and tasty breakfast,
lunch and dinner at The Imperial. Or even just bar snacks and a good old pint.
Our chef focuses on using only the best locally-sourced seasonal produce, to create an interesting
and healthy menu which always includes a number of traditional British dishes.
The Imperial's flexible events team is happy to cater to every type of occasion,
whether at home, in the office or outside.
The
577 King's Road | London SW6 2EH | www.the-imperial.co.uk

SIP
AU ROOM
Party with the city's fashion elite and international jet set at this vibrant
destination nightclub, decorated in gold and black leather, located at the
city's most happening hotel, W Bogota. www.wbogota.com/en/auroom
APACHE
This small, funky jumping bar on the rooftop of urban chic Click Clack
hotel serves some of the best burgers in the city, and boasts 360° views of
Bogotá and lively weekend parties.
www.clickclackhotel.com
CÉNTRICO
On the 41st floor of the Hilton hotel, one of downtown Bogotá's tallest
buildings, Céntrico serves quality tapas and classic cocktails to a backdrop
of funky music, high above the twinkling city below.
www.centrico.co
LITTLE INDIAN SUPERSTAR GIN CLUB
Located in Zona Rosa the city's main party district, whilst gin is the main
star here the bar's expert mixologists will also fix you a bespoke cocktail to
fulfill your taste buds’ desires.
www.facebook.com/littleindiansuperstar
QUEEN VICTORIA
Award-winning mixologists serve excellent cocktails at this popular
London-themed DJ bar, furnished with a red telephone box and an
abundance of Queen Victoria momentos.
www.facebook.com/queenvictoriabar
AU ROOM, W BOGOTA
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 51

USAQUÉN SUNDAY MARKET
52

SPEND
LOTO DEL SUR
Colombian producer of divine face creams, bath products, handmade soaps and other
deluxe toiletries, created using natural Latin American botanicals and plant extracts.
www.lotodelsur.com
USAQUÉN SUNDAY MARKET
This gorgeous little suburb - filled with small, quirky restaurants and live music bars -
is the setting for Bogotá's most popular Sunday market, where you can buy arts and
crafts, paintings, Colombian trinkets and leather goods, plus hats and bags fashioned
by indigenous tribes.
GALERÍA VALENZUELA-KLENNER
Funky modern art gallery, founded in 1989, showcasing contemporary Latin American
art in three exhibition spaces housed in a gorgeous 1937 deco building in Macarena.
www.vkgaleria.com
XOCO
Innovative chocolatier that produces traditional truffles, chocolates and bonbons, plus a
range of tempting elaborate confectionary flavoured with exotic fruits and spices. (+57 1
622 0443)
CESAR GIRALDO
Local artisanal leather workshop, established since 1989, which stitches high-quality
handbags, briefcases, belts and rucksacks in a variety of shapes and colours.
www.cesargiraldo.com.co
PER SE
Olga Piedrahita’s ever-changing, multi-label fashion emporium and high-end
conceptual shop in leafy La Cabrera.
www.olgapiedrahita.com

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN
MY BOGOTÁ BY JOHANA SANINT
The Bogotá-based founder of Loto del Sur reveals where she choses to spend quality time in the capital.
WAS CREATING YOUR RANGE IN A MORE
HOLISTIC BASIS YOUR INITIAL AIM AND IF SO
WHY?
I am a great believer in the power of plants and enjoy
the simple pleasures in life. Loto del Sur’s objectives
are to offer the best botanical formulas, and teach
clients about new ingredients, rituals and scents of
Latin America, so that looking after yourself becomes
second nature and something to enjoy.
PLEASE TELL US ABOUT LOTO
DEL SUR AND HOW YOU CAME
TO LAUNCH IT.
My childhood was marked by
memories of aromas and travels. My
Dutch maternal grandparents founded
the PFW house of fragrance and their
legacy nurtured my unique love for
perfume. However, I only discovered
my true vocation after graduating as
an architect, when I travelled to
France and Italy and learned the
artisan method of extracting perfumes
from plants, and how to make
vegetable-based soaps. It was then
that I decided to use South American
ingredients exclusively, inviting
people to visit Colombia and
rediscover our marvellous continent.
WHY DO YOU THINK COLOMBIA IS
NOW CONSIDERED A HOT PLACE
FOR TOURISTS?
Colombia is still a best kept secret. It was
forgotten by tourism for many years and
as a result cultivated an authentic and
refined character. Besides Colombia’s
unimaginable geographical richness, my
country has become a gastronomic, arts
and design point of reference for the
whole of Latin America. It has the perfect
balance of culture, nature and good
quality living.
YOU HAVE DEVELOPED MALE, FEMALE AND
BABY COLLECTIONS. WHAT IS YOUR NEXT
GOAL?
Our next launch will be a facial line ideal for treating
sensitive or irritated skin, for which we already have
the first fantastic product - a cream soufflé called
‘Two Kings and a Queen.’ The formula contains
essential oils, calming and antioxidant ingredients,
hibiscus extract (known as ‘vegetable botox’),
Amandín with high contents of vitamins A, B and E,
and vital acids to maintain a healthy complexion.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE HIDDEN
SPOT IN BOGOTÁ AND WHY?
FLORA ars+natura contemporary art space in
the San Felipe neighbourhood, not yet widely
known but fast becoming the gallery hub of
Bogotá. This gallery is also a residency space
for artists and the emphasis is on the
relationship between nature and art. One of its
standout exhibitions was Susana Mejía’s
Amazonian Colours, featuring natural dyes
she extracted from Amazonian plants.
WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE
PLACES TO EAT, DRINK, PLAY
AND SLEEP IN BOGOTÁ?
To eat and drink the bar at La
Brasserie. The Away Spa at W
Bogota to swim and get a massage,
or a Loto del Sur conceived ritual to
relax. My favorite place to sleep in
Bogotá is my home in the forest
where I live with my two kids and
husband, Ivan. When I want to spend
a night in the city I stay at Four
Seasons Hotel Casa Medina Bogotá.
54 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016
WHAT IS YOUR ABSOLUTE
FAVOURITE COLOMBIAN
MEAL?
Ajiaco - a popular dish from the
Santander region, where Bogotá
is located. This is a soup
typically made with chicken,
herbs and three or more types of
potato.

WHO IS YOUR ULTIMATE COLOMBIAN HEROINE
AND WHY?
For me, a hero is every Colombian striving to make a
difference and believes in this country even in the worst of
times. And my ultimate hero is my father, Rafael Sanint. As
an architect he taught me the importance of balance between
humankind and the natural environment, and instilled a
loving vision of our continent that drives my Loto del Sur
journey. My father’s book Soñar America is a great read
about what it means to be Latin American.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE HOTEL IN COLOMBIA
AND WHY?
Sofitel Legend Santa Clara in Cartagena, which was
originally built as a convent in 1621. It was used in the film
Of Love and Other Demons based on the book by Gabriel
García Márquez. This building is a shining example of 17 th
century colonial architecture in the heart of the old city, and
is listed by UNESCO.
‘BESIDES COLOMBIA’S
UNIMAGINABLE
GEOGRAPHICAL RICHNESS,
MY COUNTRY HAS BECOME
A GASTRONOMIC, ARTS
AND DESIGN POINT OF
REFERENCE FOR THE
WHOLE OF LATIN AMERICA.’
NAME ONE THING A VISITOR TO
COLOMBIA SHOULD NOT LEAVE THE
COUNTRY WITHOUT EXPERIENCING?
A tropical adventure, to immerse yourself into an
ecosystem like no other; a mountain hike, with
moon-like views and bizarre yet beautiful
vegetation that make you feel like you’re on
sacred ground; a weekend in Cartagena - getting
lost in the day while exploring the old city and
partying at night to live salsa at Café Havana. And
an afternoon shopping in Loto del Sur of course!
PLEASE REVEAL TO US YOUR
FAVOURITE (1) BEACH, (2) PLACE
OF NATURAL BEAUTY, AND (3)
CULTURAL SITE IN COLOMBIA.
The beaches in Providencia, especially
the ‘sea of seven colours’ that seems
magical. The stunning Caño Cristales
river - clear waters and masses of red,
yellow, green, blue, pink and black
algae that grow on the riverbed and
make it look like a surreal,
multi-coloured waterway - is for me,
the best of nature on earth. The
UNESCO heritage site, San Agustín
Archaeological Park, which is home to
the biggest collection of Latin
America’s religious stone monuments.
WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES
COLOMBIA SUCH A UNIQUE
DESTINATION?
Colombia has one of the most diverse
ecosystems on the planet - alpine
mountains, deserts, jungles, tropical rain
forests, savannas and plains. Its position
between two seas and the Andean cordillera
means climate is erratic and hugely varied,
with infinite flora and fauna species
growing here. However, I believe the most
beautiful thing about Colombia is its warm,
happy and smiley people, who make any
foreign visitor feel like they’re at home.
Loto del Sur stores are located in
Bogotá and Cartagena www.lotodelsur.com

56

The Botero Suite, Sofitel Legend Santa Clara
&
The Angel Suite, Casa De Indias
THE BOTERO SUITE

Revered in his native country of Colombia and
internationally, Fernando Botero is widely accepted to
be one of the most successful contemporary artists
alive, and is considered by many to be the most
influential Latin American artist in the world. In 2001,
Botero’s bronze sculpture, Dancers, sold for US 1.7
million and in 2012, his painting The Musicians fetched
USD2 million. His unique signature style - known as
Boterismo - evokes images of voluptuous people,
voluminous objects and animals in exaggerated
proportions. His work is in continuous demand around
the globe and his incredibly visual and instantly
recognisable statues can be seen gracing elegant
squares, city plazas and positioned outside corporate
headquarters all over the planet.
Catching sight of a Botero piece generally makes
one smile, although some consider his work to be
controversial, even trivial. You either love it or hate it.
Being a collector of art by the late British artist Beryl
Cook - many of whose paintings depict bold, bulky
extrovert figures - I always enjoy seeing Botero's work
and am happy to see his art quite literally everywhere.
When I was travelling in Turkey last year, I was thrilled
to see a huge Botero hanging by the lifts of the swishy
St Regis Istanbul hotel. Brand Botero has done
wonders promoting Colombia both at home and
abroad, and whilst some of Botero’s most famous
works can be found in Bogotá, Medellín, Barcelona
and Madrid, just as many are on show in other global
capitals including Singapore, Berlin, Paris and New
York.
Now in his 80s, Botero is as prolific as ever. A
devoted creator, he has produced thousands of
paintings, hundreds of sculptures and gifted a huge
number of works to his homeland. No trip to Colombia
is complete without an afternoon spent in Plaza
Botero, outside the Museum of Antioquia in Medellín,
where 25 of his giant statues reside. Also a must is a
visit to Museo Botero in Bogotá, to which he donated
123 of his own works plus 85 others by such
luminaries as Picasso and Chagall. Botero's fondness
for Cartagena is also well known. A huge Botero
THE ANGEL SUITE
58 40 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

THE ANGEL SUITE
bronze of a reclining female, called La Gorda, lies in Plaza
Santo Domingo in Cartagena’s old city. Literally translated as
'The Fat One', it forms the perfect backdrop for diners
gorging themselves in one of the many restaurants within
eyeshot of the sculpture.
Together with his first wife, Gloria Zea, Botero bought
Casa De Indias in the 1980’s, a splendid colonial mansion in
Cartagena’s old city. The mansion dates back to the late 16 th
century and originally belonged to Don Sancho Jimeno de
Orozco, who was governor of Cartagena in 1693. Botero and
Zea purchased the property when the old city was filled with
abandoned houses and tourism was virtually non-existent.
The sympathetic restoration of Casa De Indias - not least by
such a renowned artist - put Cartagena's historic center back
on the map and generated considerable interest in the old

CASA DE INDIAS
THE ANGEL SUITE
city and it’s numerous unloved houses, many of which
were then bought up by wealthy South Americans,
who in time transformed them into luxe vacation
homes.
Not only did the restoration of Casa De Indias
uncover delightful murals (from underneath countless
layers of lime), but also the house’s original colors:
hydrangea blue, salmon pink and a light
brownish-yellow ochre. Whilst these remain the
predominant colours of the house today, some of the
walls constantly change their appearance and tone
due to the humidity and climate in Cartagena, adding
even more character to the property. Rooms of high
vaulted ceilings with wooden beams and incredible
floors of Carrara marble are filled with colonial
furniture, priceless antiques, ethnic fabrics, huge
paintings, silk rugs, dramatic candelabras and
chandeliers. Standout are a beautiful oil painting by
Antonio Barrera, and a life-size wooden sculpture of a
friar, which was recovered from an excavation in the
city’s outskirts. In some rooms the combined intensity
of the building’s grandeur, décor, artworks and
furnishings almost render it palatial. Casa De Indias
oozes glamour, drama and history from every corner;
it’s past and present position in the epicentre of the
old city undeniably unique. In 2013 Casa De Indias was
given an interior makeover by the couple's daughter,
Lina Botero, and the house is now available to rent - as
a whole or in parts - to carefully vetted individuals. The
best accommodation is the two-bedroom 100m² Angel
Suite, which includes the ground floor swimming pool
and surrounding terrace filled with huge tropical
plants and overhanging trees, as perfect for a lazy day
of lounging as it is for a glitzy evening soirée.
10 mins walk from Casa De Indias is Sofitel Legend
Santa Clara, a landmark in the heart of Cartagena’s old
city and almost certainly the most famous hotel in
Colombia. Bill Gates, Shakira, Mel Gibson, Francis Ford
Coppola, Mick Jagger, Plácido Domingo and Sting have
all stayed here. It's perhaps fitting that the winner of
South America's Leading Hotel Suite 2015 at the World
Travel Awards, was the hotel’s presidential 143m²
Botero Suite, a collaboration between Botero,
daughter Lina (who designed the interior) and
construction firm Arias, Serna and Saravia.
The accommodation comprises a vast
double-height main salon, guest cloakroom, butler’s
kitchen and bedroom cum living room with bathroom
and walk-in closet. Inspired by the artist’s early works,
the colour palette utilises wheat, champagne and sand
tones, while the décor scheme embodies many natural
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 61

materials including linen, woods, plant fibres,
cotton, rattan, sisal and Colombian yute, all
produced locally. The curtains were made on
handlooms. The gorgeous, rich wooden
floors have a rustic, homely finish. The
master bathroom is lined in acres of white
Carrara marble. The handmade furniture is
classic with a contemporary twist, including
some cute pieces highlighted with colonial
features to blend with the overall design
ethic of the hotel.
The main salon is presided over by a
huge, original Botero painting of a naked
lady, hanging high up the wall, who, from a
certain angle, appears to oversee everything
that transpires in her midst. The massive
comfy sofa underneath her, is more than 3
metres long, balanced by a pair of extra wide
fabric-covered chaise opposite. A giant
bookcase spanning an entire wall is filled
with novels, prints, trinkets, bijou sculptures,
photographs by Lina Botero, ethnic pots and
bowls, and Colombian folk art pieces
inspired by Botero. Ralph Lauren lamps are
dotted around. Doors open onto a large
balcony overlooking the hotel pool with
fabulous views towards the ocean. The result
is a room, which - whilst huge and high - is
pleasingly eclectic, fresh and inviting, and at
the same time conveys a genuine feeling of
being in Colombia.
A sophisticated Bose set-up provides
music of the highest sound quality in every
room, whilst the suite’s NightCove system
produces a mixture of varying wavelengths
and sounds to ensure a relaxed and deep
sleep at night. In the mornings you can even
be carefully woken by a dawn simulator. The
designers really did think of everything,
rendering The Botero Suite perfectly
juxtaposed between luxury, glamour and
comfort, with no part feeling anything less
than intensely warm and welcoming. Anyone
staying here runs a serious risk of seeing
very little of Cartagena at all.
The average nightly rate for The Angel Suite at
Casa De Indias is USD1,200 inclusive of
breakfast, 24-hour butler service and airport
transportation. www.galavanta.com
The average nightly rate for The Botero Suite at
Softel Legend Santa Clara is USD2,500 inclusive
of breakfast and airport transportation.
www.sofitel-legend.com/cartagena
Words by Nicholas Chrisostomou
62

THE BOTERO SUITE

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN
MY BARANQUILLA BY SOFÍA VERGARA
The TV star, actress and comedienne tells us about the favourite
parts of her native city of Barranquilla.
YOU HAIL FROM BARRANQUILLA,
WHICH HOSTS THE BIGGEST
CARNIVAL IN COLOMBIA. HOW
MUCH OF THE CITY’S TRADITION
HAS INSPIRED YOUR OWN
VIBRANT VISUAL IMAGERY?
The carnival of Barranquilla is all about
music, fun, dancing, bright colours and
friends and family celebrating life. I feel
that we, all Colombians, are about this, and
it's something beautiful we carry in our
souls and in the way we carry ourselves.
‘THERE IS
SOMETHING FOR
EVERYONE IN OUR
BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY,
NOT TO MENTION
THE COOLEST PEOPLE
EVER’
PLEASE REVEAL YOUR
MOST SECRET SPOT IN
BARRANQUILLA.
There's this small place called La
Tiendecita where you can eat the
best crispy, crunchy and
altogether delicious pork
chicharrón ever.
WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE
PLACES TO EAT, DRINK, PLAY
AND SLEEP IN BARRANQUILLA?
I love Arabe Gourmet for its great
Middle Eastern cuisine with a twist of
Barranquilla. To party, Díscolo is
amazing. And the best and most
delicious desserts are from
Dulcerna. Anything with coconut
becomes addictive. Also in the city of
Cartagena (an hour away from
Barranquilla) there are great desserts
at Ely Gourmet.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE
BEACH IN COLOMBIA?
Playa Blanca and Las Islas del
Rosario in Cartagena.
WHO IS YOUR ULTIMATE
COLOMBIAN HERO AND WHY?
It has to be the Colombian soccer team.
Soccer is huge here and every game,
goal and victory of our Selección
Colombia puts the whole country in a
state of euphoria, happiness and spirit to
party that I think is the best source of
happiness ever.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE
COLOMBIAN MEAL?
Without any doubt it has to be el
Sancocho. A delicious typical
Colombian soup - like a stew - that
contains plantain, meat, yuca and
everything that is good in the foodie
world.
WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES
COLOMBIA SUCH A UNIQUE
DESTINATION FOR OVERSEAS
VISITORS?
No matter what city or area you visit, there's
always something to see, learn and enjoy, plus
you’ll get to meet some of the nicest people
on the planet. Truly, there's something for
everyone: beautiful scenery, happening
nightlife, intense culture and delicious food.
64 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

COLOMBIA IS NOW CONSIDERED ONE OF THE HOTTEST PLACES
FOR TOURISTS TO VISIT. WHY DO YOU THINK THIS IS?
The thing is we have everything: beaches, mountains, valleys, the Amazon
jungle, coffee plantations, natural parks, glacier covered volcanoes like
Nevado del Ruiz, deserts, salt mines and incredibly historic architecture in
most cities. We literally have EVERYTHING! In Bogotá there are beautiful
museums like the Gold Museum and Botero Museum, and the breathtaking
Mount Monserrate. The old walled city in Cartagena is incredible, by far it's
one of the most
beautiful in the world.
We have unique
cultural attractions like
the Salt Cathedral in
Zipaquirá which simply
is a must see. There is
something for everyone
in our beautiful country,
not to mention the
coolest people ever.
WHERE IN COLOMBIA ARE
YOUR TOP PLACES FOR
UNSURPASSED, NATURAL
BEAUTY?
Parque Tayrona and the mountains
of Medellín are breathtaking.
NAME ONE THING A VISITOR TO COLOMBIA
SHOULD NOT LEAVE THE COUNTRY WITHOUT
SEEING OR EXPERIENCING?
I have five, sorry, but I couldn’t leave out any one of these:
RIDE a Chiva - have fun travelling around the city in a
typical Colombian party bus, drinking aguardiente and rum,
with a Vallenato band playng on board. It's the best
experience.
BUY an emerald - we have some of the best in the world.
TASTE camu camu - an amazing berry that only grows in the
Amazon. Its juice is delicious and super healthy.
GO to el Carnaval de Barranquilla and let the happiness and
music take over your soul. You will never forget it.
TAKE a happy picture in Cartagena – pose with a
Palenquera, the most fun and colourful women you’ll ever
see, as they sell their delicious fruits at the beach.
WHICH CULTURAL SITE
WOULD YOU CONSIDER
COLOMBIA’S FINEST?
Mompox is a beautiful town
renowned for its architecture,
culture and beautiful landscape. It
appears to be frozen in time and
looks pretty much as it used to
during colonial times.
Sofía Vergara stars in Modern Family and recently launched her second fragrance, 'Love'

AVIANCA’S LONDON BOGOTÁ BUSINESS CLASS
Founded in 1919, Colombia's flag carrier, Avianca, is the
world's second oldest operating airline after KLM. Many
consider Avianca to have pioneered civil aviation in South
America. At one time controlled by Pan Am, Avianca is
now owned - through his privately held Synergy group -
by Bolivian-born entrepreneur, Germán Efromovich, who
bought control of the ailing airline in 2004 and helped it
out of bankruptcy.
Despite buoyant customer demand and growing
tourism in Colombia, the unique challenges of the
country's geography appear to have never truly been
mastered by Avianca. Difficult economic and political
when it exploded over the town of Soacha, just outside
the capital, killing all 107 people on board and strewing
debris and dismembered bodies across the Colombian
countryside. Running a massive international cocaine
cartel and ranked by Forbes magazine as the world’s
seventh-richest man at the time, Escobar was determined
not to let Colombia’s 1990 presidential election interfere
with his brutal ambitions. Escobar's intended target,
Gaviria, went on to win Colombia’s 1990 presidential
election and launch a massive (and very public) anti-drug
campaign, which eventually resulted in Escobar being
killed in a rooftop gunfight in Medellín in 1993.
conditions have also been a problem for the airline to
navigate over the years. Today, whilst competition is
increasing and young, attractive low-cost airlines are
taking a bite out of Avianca's core business, Colombia’s
national carrier is fighting back by introducing new jets,
more routes and streamlining services. But many
observers believe that Avianca has never fully recovered
from the 1989 bombing of its flight AV 203, ordered by late
Colombian drug lord, Pablo Escobar, to kill presidential
candidate Cesar Gaviria who turned out not to be on
board. Many Colombians still won’t fly Avianca and instead
look to any other airline. Flight AV 203 had just taken off
from Bogotá on its way to Cali, on 27 November 1989,
Twenty years on, Avianca is flying some of the newest and
most modern jets in Latin America’s skies, and currently
operating the only daily direct service between London
Heathrow and Bogotá, covering the distance in just under
11 hours. The airline's clever scheduling enables
passengers to connect to 23 cities in Colombia and more
than 100 destinations in the Americas. Flights are
operated on Airbus A330 planes with a capacity for 252
passengers - 30 in business and 222 in economy. These
will gradually be replaced by Boeing 787 Dreamliner
aircraft, the roll-out scheduled to be complete by the end
of 2017 on the London Bogotá route.
I made sure that I was travelling on one of Avianca’s
66 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

newest Boeing A330-200 jets, in which business was split
into two cabins, with flatbed seats laid out in a spacious
1-2-1 configuration, all having direct access to an aisle.
Avianca, is still operating some older A330 aircraft - with
angled flat seats - so it's a bit of a lottery as to what
product you may experience. Anyway my seat provided
excellent privacy and a good amount of personal space,
although I still can't get used to being seated at an angle
towards the windows. I much prefer a window seat
positioned at a traditional angle so I can peer out of the
windows - something I especially like to do when coming
into land in a country I've never visited before. An angled
seat means you can't see out of the windows properly,
which for me takes some of the fun out of flying, but lots
meals served when a passenger wants to eat (rather
than when the airline wants you to eat), served on fine
china with choices of wines and not a trolley in sight.
This was not the case on my Avianca flight. Food was
served in one sitting - with everything on the meal tray
except dessert - and trolleys are still very much a part of
the Avianca business class experience. There was no
finesse to the meal service and the food was not of
restaurant quality, which I have to say was a little
disappointing. Rather than eat I chose to slumber, and I
can say that the quality of my sleep was very good, with
noise cancelling headphones that worked well, a decent
pillow and a nice Tumi amenity kit, although the
airline-supplied “Bonnet-type” headphone coverings
of airlines are adopting this new fangled layout. Windows
aside, there were plenty of storage spaces including a
decent cupboard for my laptop and another for the
multitude of cables one has to lug on board these days.
Just before take off I was presented with a fluffy blanket
tied with a red bow and ribbon, and a drawstring bag to
put my shoes in.
If you’re a frequent flyer on any of the Middle Eastern or
Asian premium carriers, then you are going to be a little
disappointed with your meal on any Latin American
airline. The likes of Qatar Airways and Singapore
completely spoil their business class passengers, with
were a bit weird. The L’Occitane hand cream was
however rather good. Despite the lack lustre meal
service, it has to be said that flying direct on Avianca
makes light work of crossing the Atlantic and visiting
South America - the cabin crew were warm, friendly and
attentive - changing continents seemed to take no time
at all - and landing early morning meant I could start my
visit to colourful Colombia with a full day out ‘n’ about in
bustling Bogotá.
Nicholas Chrisostomou flew Avianca from Heathrow to
Bogotá on 27 October 2015.
www.avianca.com

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S KY BRIEF
GETTING AROUND COLOMBIA Approximately the same size as the
UK, France, and Germany combined, Colombia is the fifth largest country in South
America, with a total coastline of more than 3,000kms. At least half a dozen
airlines service Colombia's domestic routes, with Avianca providing the greatest
number of flights (www.avianca.com). CopaAirlines, Colombia's second-largest,
covers much the same destinations but also flies to the coral island of San Andrés
in the Caribbean Sea (www.copaair.com). Satena flies to the Amazon, Pacific coast
ERNESTO CORTISSOZ UPGRADE Barranquilla was not an
especially popular destination in the past, but the city is now on the up, and
for the past few years it has had one of the highest economic growth rates of
any Colombian metropolis. 7km south of the city, USD200 million works have
begun to improve Ernesto Cortissoz international airport - earmarked to
become a major hub for Avianca due to its location in the northern part of the
country. Already capable of accepting wide-bodied aircraft including the
and between San Andrés and Providencia (www.satena.com). Low-cost carrier
EasyFly serves Bogotá, Barranquilla, Cartagena, Cúcuta, Medellín and Santa Marta
(www.easyfly.com.co). Lan flies to the major cities plus small smaller regional
destinations (www.lan.com). Low-cost newcomer, VivaColombia, is the only airline
which connects Medellín directly with Santa Marta (www.vivacolombia.co). All six
airlines have English language options on their websites.
VIVACOLOMBIA TO THE STATES Colombian low-cost carrier,
VivaColombia has just launched four times weekly direct flights between Bogotá
and Miami using its Airbus A320 jets. This service joins the airline's Medellín
Miami route, launched just over a year ago, which are proving to be very popular.
VivaColombia has established itself as Colombia’s first true low-cost carrier. The
airline launched in May 2012 and alongside a strong domestic operation, also
offers flights from Colombia to Ecuador, Panama and Peru. www.vivacolombia.co
Boeing 747, Boeing 767 and Airbus A340, the improvements to the airport -
which are being carried out by Consortium Aeropuertos Colombia SPV -
include the refurbishment of the runway and taxiways, construction of a
perimeter road and the remodelling of the passenger terminal to provide a
vastly better passenger experience. Baranquilla's new look airport will be
unveiled in 2017.
HELICOPTER TRAVEL IN COLOMBIA For those for whom time is
of the essence and the sky's the limit, a private helicopter is the only way to travel
and the preferred method of arriving at a fancy party at a sprawling hacienda. With
offices in Bogotá and Medellín, Helistar offers charter flights to anywhere in the
country and thanks to its large fleet of aircraft, the customer has the ability and
autonomy to choose the aircraft that best suits. Helistar has helicopters which
seat 6, 9, 12 and 24 passengers. www.helistar.com.co
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 69

No Shoes Required
Nicholas Chrisostomou reports on two distinctly different chill out
experiences: a unique beachside eco escape on Colombia’s stunning
unspoiled north coastline, and a sprawling designer vacation pad in
an Andean riverside town virtually untouched by tourism.
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 71

HOTEL MERECUMBE
In the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa
Marta, on a remote Caribbean beach on
Colombia’s north coastline, bordering Tayrona
National Park, there's a place where time moves
slowly, the surroundings are wild and it’s truly
possible to disconnect from the rest of the world. Just five
years ago, the Tayrona district was still a relatively low-key
rest point for transient trekkers and spirited travellers, with
hammocks and basic rooms the most they could expect for
respite. But bijou eco resort, Hotel Merecumbe, has changed
all that. Set within its own protected area of more than
100,000 biodiverse square metres - with sixty percent of its
land designated for conservation and reforestation - this
unique beachside escape is a truly exceptional nature lover’s
paradise and a rare opportunity to experience Colombia’s
rich culture, dramatic landscape and warm hospitality all in
one place.
Merecumbe is just a sixty-minute drive from Simón
Bolívar airport, which is in turn a sixty-minute flight from
Bogotá. Since I was peckish when we landed, we stopped a
short way into the drive for a traditional Chicharrón lunch at
Choncy, on the outskirts of Santa Marta. Chicharrón is a
Colombian speciality of fried pork belly which is scrummy
and incredibly moreish but bad news for your arteries. Once
in a while is OK, I said to myself, as I munched my way
through a large plate of the stuff.
(www.facebook.com/pages/restaurante-chonchy).
After alighting in Merecumbe’s driveway, eager helpers
loaded my luggage onto a wooden wheelbarrow and
transported my belongings into the distance. With not an
electric golf cart in sight it was clear, from the get go, that
Merecumbe’s owners were committed to preserving the
untamed environment and local traditions. This couldn’t
have come at a more refreshing time, after the long hectic
weekend of sightseeing and revelry I’d just enjoyed in
Bogotá. My only slight worry was the hotel’s strict eco ethos
meaning no TV (which I was happy to do without) and more
importantly, no air-con. But I needn’t have worried, because
my airy eco-hab (of which Merecumbe has just eleven) was
inviting, comfy and thoughtfully furnished, having been
bio-climatically built using a minimalist wooden structure
topped with a roof of natural palm. Fine grilles ventilated
my room and simultaneously protected me from blood
thirsty mozzies. I loved the outdoor bathroom, covered to
the sides and above but in every other respect open to the
fresh sea air. The simply furnished interior led to an
expansive private deck with loungers, table and chairs and a
glorious al fresco shower, which I made prompt use of after
a dip in the sea. In fact, such was the pull of the sea - the
waves crashing into the shore making that inimitable sound -
that I almost virtually through the hotel grounds and straight
into the Caribbean less than 30 mins after checking-in. This
is the Merecumbe effect. The place virtually forces you to
kick off your shoes, leave the city behind and experience
nature. Even if you tried your best, you’d find Merecumbe’s
calming influence impossible to resist. I did. The isolated
72 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016
49

beach - where squirrels, otters, rabbits and tortoises roam
free - was in itself something to behold. The parrots and
other exotic birds in the trees literally stopped me in my
tracks. Unfortunately I didn’t have time for a relaxing
massage on the beach to a hypnotic wave soundtrack. But I
did sit on a swing and read a magazine with my feet in the
sand, smiling to myself at the momentary childlike feeling.
And I did play Scrabble in the clubhouse while sipping on a
delicious apple martini. And I did sample some of the hotel’s
tasty culinary offerings, which showcased local produce
including homegrown fruits, vegetables and herbs.
Merecumbe’s quality menu is prepared with care and love,
and offers delectable dishes to satisfy everyone, from
die-hard carnivores to vegetarian and vegan travellers.
Despite my initial misgivings, mother nature and the
awe-inspiring unspoiled surroundings more than made up
for the unpretentious facilities at Merecumbe. This was one
hotel where the pressures of life, work and digicomms did
in fact seem light years away.
www.merecumbehotel.com

CASA DE LAS AGUAS
T
hree hours drive from Bogotá, on the west
bank of the Magdalena, is Honda, a town in
Tolima founded in 1539, located in the
Andean region in the center west of the
country. Surrounded by hills with a
picturesque colonial town centre of steep, narrow cobbled
streets and brightly coloured houses, Honda is home to
undoubtedly some of the most beautiful architecture in the area.
Being in Honda is about wandering the streets, taking in
the scenery and generally appreciating the distinctly slower
pace of life. The town’s location, nestled on Colombia’s
longest river, the Magdalena, also affords visitors
spectacular views of one of South America’s mightiest
arteries, and the 25 bridges crossing the Magdalena, Gualí
and Guarinó has earned it the nickname of "the City of
Bridges". Its bright yellow Puente de Navarro is reputedly
the oldest iron bridge in South America.
In its heyday, Honda was an important trading post for
goods coming down the Magdalena from the Atlantic coast.
Supplies shipped in from Barranquilla were offloaded in
Honda before starting their journey on land to Bogotá. With
the development of rail and the expansion of road routes,
Honda slowly lost its economic power and some of its
grandeur faded. Nowadays, virtually untouched by tourism,
the town boasts an authentic, historic center, with a grand,
old colonnaded covered public market selling mostly fruit
and vegetables. The former President of Colombia, Alfonso
López, was born in Honda, and there is a Casa Cultural
dedicated to him, featuring some interesting photographs
from the period. At the crest of the town atop some steep
cobbled lanes, is the main park with a charming stone
church, El Alto Rosario, and a statue dedicated to David
Hughes Williams, an Englishman who was once town mayor.
74 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

Honda’s special charm has attracted many creative and
artistic people to the area, including architects Guillermo
Arias and Luis Cuartas, who created in the town their own
personal oasis of tranquility, Casa De Las Aguas. Their
practice, Octubre Arquitectura, based in Bogotá, is well
known for its creative use of steel, bronze, iron, marble and
wood, and their Honda vacation house combines many
textures and finishes to create a unique, warm and
comfortable home, which is rented to carefully vetted
travellers looking for a break or a place to reboot. With no
internet, no TV and an open-plan layout with few walls,
Casa De Las Aguas is calm and serenity personified, and
the ideal place to catch some sun, listen to music and
unwind with a book, in between weekends in Bogotá and
Medellín perhaps. In short, Casa De Las Aguas is the
perfect house to kick back, loosen up and switch off.
Needless to say shoes are pretty much superfluous
anywhere in the house.
Casa De Las Aguas is the result of combining two
abandoned street-facing properties in the oldest part of the
town centre, which used to house residential and storage
buildings. Only the façades and some of the colonial, period
stonewalls were preserved and incorporated into the new
project within the boundaries of the old structure, which was
conceived as a sequence of open plan, covered spaces where
indoor and outdoor merge without the presence of rooms. As
soon as you come off the cobbled pavement and walk
through the front door, a multitude of different vistas of the
gardens and water invoke the idea of lazy afternoons dozing
in a hammock. You are almost subconsciously transported
into relaxation mode as soon as you’ve put your bags down.
Quite honestly I had never before experienced a vacation
house like it.
The house’s floor plan is based on sight lines, and
venturing around conveys a whimsical, labyrinth-like
feeling. Every room faces one of the exterior areas with
each representing a theme. These include a patio festooned
with aromatic herbs, a small orchard of citrus trees and a
terrace brimming with red peppers. Water in the form of
swimming pools, fountains and ponds act as unifying
elements throughout the house and add to the open, breezy
feeling. Lush vegetation, gardens, moss-covered ancient
walls and small jungle-like paths enticing you into different
areas of the house, bring everything together and create an
air of playfulness. Vertical stairs, terraces and higher levels
reveal spectacular views of the dramatic surrounding
landscape, and at the very top of the house an oversized
outdoor tub and large terrace (perfect for sunset cocktails)
overlook the fast-flowing Magdelena river a few hundred
metres away. Minimalist furniture, beds and shelves in
concrete and dark wood, fashioned by the house’s owners,
complete the relaxed look. In the evenings, the clever,
bespoke lighting scheme - designed by Arias - really comes
into its own, enhancing the character of the original walls,
textures, botanicals and water features, creating a soothing,
reflective space in which to chill out, snooze on a daybed or
prepare to slumber.
www.facebook.com/casa.delasaguas
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 77

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN
MY CALI BY KATHERINE ARAUJO
The Colombian-born restaurant guide publisher and keen foodie insists that you really must salsa in Cali.
YOUR BEST RESTAURANTS COLOMBIA GUIDE LISTS THE COUNTRY’S MOST
CELEBRATED EATERIES. PLEASE TELL US MORE ABOUT THE BOOK.
Best Restaurants has been documenting the planet’s finest gastronomy for decades. The journey to
discover Colombia’s culinary trends began with my partner two years ago. We were shocked yet
thrilled at how Colombian cuisine had evolved over recent years, and how its dining scene had
totally transformed. However restaurant information was very limited, so after some thorough
research, we published our first guidebook in 2014 - Best Restaurants Colombia - featuring 114
restaurants in six cities.
YOU ARE FROM CALI, KNOWN
AS THE WORLD’S ‘CAPITAL
DE LA SALSA’. HOW GOOD
ARE YOUR MOVES?
Haha! You absolutely must learn
how to dance salsa when you are
from Cali. My moves are good, I
learned how to dance salsa when I
was about 7 or 8. I love it, and have
been dancing ever since.
WHO IS YOUR ULTIMATE COLOMBIAN
HEROINE AND WHY?
Leonor Espinosa, for her commitment to exploring
every corner of Colombia in search of new delights to
add to the dining table, and for her dedication and
phenomenal work with her foundation FUNLEO,
which supports the agricultural development of the
country’s indigenous and peasant communities.
WHAT IS YOUR
FAVORITE HOTEL OR
RESORT IN COLOMBIA?
I have to mention a few. In
Cartagena, the Casablanca
B&B, in the city center, is
quiet and beautiful. In
Tayrona Park I love the
Aviatur Hotel. And the
Entremonte Wellness Hotel
& Spa on the outskirts of
Bogotá is just breathtaking.
HOW DID YOU BECOME SO
PASSIONATE ABOUT COLOMBIAN
GASTRONOMY?
I grew up with a big gastronomic influence in
my family: my mother is an extraordinary
cook and food enthusiast, as was her mother
before her. This passion is in our soul. From as
far back as I can recall, food, cooking and
what goes on around a table has always
captivated me. After I finished high school, I
moved to Buenos Aires for culinary studies.
78 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016
WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT,
DRINK, PLAY AND SLEEP IN CALI?
Cali is a fabulous city where many gastronomic cultures
have merged. Being so close to the Pacific and with its
richly fertile soils, Cali produces a wealth of natural
ingredients to use in its dishes. I love Cali street food but
my favorite restaurants are Platillos Voladores, La
Guacharaca and Azul.
For drinks, I like the
Absenta bar, and the
Menga district outside
Cali is the place for fun
with many, big salsa
nightclubs, my
favourite being Jala
Jala club. For a good
night’s sleep, The Now
Hotel and the Acqua
Santa Hotel are perfect.
WHAT IS YOUR
FAVOURITE HIDDEN
SPOT IN CALI?
My favorite hidden spot is a
bar called Punto Baré on
Calle 5ta, with its orchestra
of 20 musicians that play
Latin, jazz and salsa live
from Wednesday through
Saturday. Entrance is free but
the place never gets
uncomfortably crowded with
too many people because
once all seats are occupied,
the doors close. It’s a fabulous
place to go for great music.

WHAT IS YOUR
ABSOLUTE FAVOURITE
COLOMBIAN MEAL?
Sudado de piangua, a mollusc
found in the mangroves of the
Pacific Ocean. You will
usually find it served at Cali’s
more casual eateries.
‘COLOMBIA HAS BECOME
ONE OF THOSE MYSTERIOUS
DESTINATIONS WHOSE
BEAUTY IS FINALLY BEING
REVEALED TO THE EYES OF
THE REST OF THE WORLD’
COLOMBIA IS NOW CONSIDERED
ONE OF THE HOTTEST PLACES FOR
TOURISTS TO VISIT. WHY DO YOU
THINK THIS IS?
I think as globalization advances and
people regularly travel and work
internationally, Colombia has become one
of those mysterious destinations whose
beauty is finally being revealed to the eyes
of the rest of the world. You can find
everything in Colombia: snow, volcanoes,
hot springs, oceans on either side with
beautiful coasts, mountains, rivers, valleys,
deserts, cities. It’s simply a magical
country and it makes me happy that more
people travel here.
WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES
COLOMBIA SUCH A UNIQUE
DESTINATION FOR OVERSEAS
VISITORS?
The fact that the natural environment
of Colombia offers so many
magnificent opportunities. You can
swim with humpback whales in the
Pacific, or visit the Guajira Desert for
stunning views of where it meets the
Atlantic. You can visit Cartagena, a
city stood in time, that looks like it
did 100 years ago when many
European and local architectural
styles collided. Colombia has
something for everyone.
PLEASE REVEAL TO US YOUR FAVOURITE (1)
BEACH, (2) PLACE OF NATURAL BEAUTY, AND
(3) CULTURAL SITE IN COLOMBIA.
The beaches of San Andrés‎ are my favourite for their
blue waters and white sands. The mountain range of the
Parque Nacional Farallones in Cali is just spectacular.
And Medellín boasts some of the country’s most
fascinating cultural sites.
NAME ONE THING A VISITOR TO
COLOMBIA SHOULD NOT LEAVE THE
COUNTRY WITHOUT DOING?
Visit a local market, since it’s a place where one
can truly experience the richness and variety of
Colombian produce and appreciate the region’s
agricultural backbone. While you’re there try a
local arepa from one of the many stalls.
The first Best Restaurants Miami guide will be published end 2016 #bestrestaurantsmiami www.bestrestaurantsincolombia.com

80

SPOTLIGHT
MEDELLÍN
Colombia’s second largest metropolis has perhaps endured one of the most
public and destructive periods in any modern city’s existence. As
recently as the mid 1990’s, traffickers and gangs ruled the streets and
comunas, police being shot and killedwas a daily occurrence, and the
violent left-wing FARC and paramilitary forces were everywhere.
I was told by a pushy friend that I “must see” the Netflix series ‘Narcos’
before leaving Blighty for Colombia, and that it would “educate” me
about the country’s turbulent past. And so I watched, in fairly graphic
detail, how drug king Pablo Escobar spearheaded areign of death and
destruction that systematically turned Medellín into the murder capital
of the world.Whilst the series was watchable I wouldn’t say that it
isessential viewing material for anyone travelling to Colombia. On the
contrary, series like Narcos are unfortunately feeding the growing
passion around Escobar’s lifeand causing a generation of young
Colombians - who did not grow up during Escobar’s era of terror - to
develop agod-like fondness for his memory. It’s unsurprising that Escobar
has become part of Latin American pop culture history, but I think that
the modern day reverence should calm down. Hence tourists travelling to
Medellín, in order to best experience the city and all that the Paisas have
achieved the past few decades, should visit the city with open minds
rather than expecting to see the remnants of ‘Narcos’.That Medellín has
come so far since Escobar’s demise is testament to the resilience, drive
and determination of the city’s people. Once dubbed the ‘most dangerous
city on earth’, it’s the energy and strength of character instilled in
Medellín-folk which has transformed their streets from a drug lord’s
playground into a blossoming cultural centre and one of Latin America’s
liveliest and most creative hotbeds today.
I visited Medellín for a weekend in November, and whilst I really got
around, felt the tremendous spirit and energy of the place, immersed
myself in the culture and loved everything I saw, it quickly became
apparent that I had merely scratched the surface of this thriving and
cosmopolitan urban hub. So I asked Carmen Angel - an American by
birth now living and working in Medellín - to share with The Cultured
Traveller her insider thoughts and tips about the city she now calls home.
Nicholas Chrisostomou

MUSEO DE ANTIOQUIA
Medellín is a diverse and spirited city. It’s a place
that is easy to fall in love with, as so many people
do, including myself. I am half Colombian - my
father is Paisa, native of the Antioquia region whose capital
is Medellín - and I was born and grew up in the USA. My
childhoodfeatured many aspects of Colombian living: eating
my father’s homemade arepas every Sunday, frequent visits
to Colombia, and of course a lot of Spanish. But it wasn’t
until I moved to Medellín eight years ago that I truly
understood and was able to appreciate the complexities and
beauty of this enchanting city.
The amazing people that live and work in Medellín every
day make the city unique. Fromthe kind cashier at the
grocery store andthe smiling parking attendant, tothe warm
reception of a server at a small local eatery orthe
sympathetic help of a random passerby on the street when I
am lost. The Paisas are a warm, polite and open people,
readily willing to show the best of their region andcity. They
are also hard-working and motivated by an innate ethic to
do things well, with honourable intentions and diligence in
achieving the goals they aspire to. They are an extremely
proud people, something that is renowned among other
Colombians. Medellín has shed its old skin, not forgetting
the past but existing with it, giving way to a much brighter
future and a city that can prove itself worthy of the recent
recognition it has received.
This green and vibrant city is a wonderful place to live and
visit. Medellín is clean, well kept and cared for by its citizens
and local government alike. Beautiful, lush vegetation is
evident everywhere - even random concrete walls are
adorned with vertical gardens and landscaping. Urban
innovation has been a priority in recent times, with
interesting new public spaces popping up all the time. Just
last year, Medellín embarked on its newest project;a park
that will be constructed over approximately 10 miles of the
Medellín River. Art and cultural sites are more abundant
than ever: the Museo de Antioquia (www.museodeantioquia.co)
situated downtown, and the Museo de Arte Moderno (or
MAMM) (www.elmamm.org), offer an opportunity to see
how the city has evolved artisticallyand showcase
up-and-coming local talent. Meanwhileinteractive science
museum, ParqueExplora (www.parqueexplora.org),
presents educationalexhibits whichcontribute to the cultural
richness of the city. The Teatro Pablo Tobón
(www.teatropablotobon.com) features several spaces for
expressing oneself artistically, and events that highlight local
tango, salsa and jazz musicians are a regular occurence. The
park in Ciudad del Rio (www.ciudaddelrio.com) is great for
picnicking, while the Ciclovía is open every Sunday and
some holidays, for those who like to walk, run, cycle or skate
freely along the city’s main boulevard which spans the
length of the El Poblado neighborhood. A stop at the
Mercados Campesinos farmer’s market in the Presidenta
park is a must for fresh, locally grown produce, organic
arepas, home-made breads and guarapo - a refreshing drink
made from freshly squeezed sugar cane and limejuice to
quench your thirst. For unbeatable scenery, take a relaxing
drive up Vía Las Palmas, stop for a rest at any of the
82 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

miradore stucked away in the Aburrá valley, and marvel at
the spectacular panoramic views ofthe expansive city
andthe breathtaking northern Andes.
Medellín is bursting at the seams with new talent: the city is
going through something of a renaissance, with new
architecture and design flourishing, and the quality of local
design and talent are at an all time high. Walking down the
Primavera and Provenza streets, it is impossible to just
window shop with so much enticing behind the glass. Vida
Augusta (www.vidaaugusta.com) is filled with cool local
creations, from handmade copper lamps to artwork and
jewelry. Animalista offers an amazing assortment of men
and women’s footwear, both stylish and locally made from
organic materials. Wanitta and Makeno are dedicated to
showcasing clothes from Colombian fashion designers, and
La Guardia’s local craftsmen restore vintage furniture and
create custom new styles in Colombian pine and oak.
My adoration for Medellín can largely be attributed to the
exceptionally good food that can be found anywhere one
chooses to dine. Everything - from traditional fare and street
food, to fine dining - is delicious. Antioquia has a history of
meat-centric preparations in massive quantities -
complemented with the most readily available ingredients
like corn, potatoes, rice - withplenty of beef, and particularly
pork belly which is used to make one of the region’s most
popular and delectable dishes, chicharrón. Understanding
the local cuisine can only be done by trying a little of
everything..The empanadas at El Machetico
(www.empanadaselmachetico.com) are rich, meaty parcels
of deliciousness with a squirt of lime and a dab of spicy ají,
but the best ones are sold at an unnamed food-stand,
outside the Parque Biblioteca España
(www.discovercolombia.com/spain-library-metrocable).
Here, you will find the most irresistible empanadas and will
be helpless but to try some of the different variations on
offer. The traditional dishes of mondongo and cazuela de
frijoles (a healthy serving of stewed beans with pork,
avocado, plantain and other trimmings), are best prepared
at Ajiacos y Mondongos (www.ajiacosymondongos.co).
While the local grub is tasty and filling, there is always room
for a refreshing, icy treat at Cholao Santi
(www.facebook.com/cholaosanti70), a one-man operated
cart on 70 th street, serving a concoction of shaved ice,
condensed milk, fresh fruit, chocolate malt powder, tropical
fruit sauces and cream, that is unbelievably yummy. The
best late night street snack (open until 2am on Fridays and
Saturdays) can be found at Las Perras de San Marcos near
the San Marcos Church in Envigado, where the sausage part
of the classic hot dog is replaced with crispy bacon and
taken to new heights with the addition of cheese, potato
pieces and a host of flavorful, messy sauces. For those
seeking a more contemporary foodie experience, Medellín is
teeming with chef-owned restaurants whose concepts -
albeit not traditional Colombian cuisine - are very locally
focused. Osea (www.oseamed.co) is a 24-seat restaurant
whose young chef sources home-reared pork and rabbit,
and grows many of his ingredients right on his own farm.
Meanwhile Naan (www.naansaboresdeindia.com) takes
PARQUE BIBLIOTECA ESPAÑA

inspiration from Indian cuisine but uses
locally grown cardamom to season its
rice dishes, curries and desserts.
Not only is Medellín ideal for the
gastronomic and scenic adventurers
amongst us, it also hits the
entertainment spot with its huge
assortment of pulsating nightlife.
Quaint bars dotted around the
metropolis can take you back in time
and make you feel right at home. El
Café de Otraparte
(www.facebook.com/CafedeOtraparte)
has a large, airy outdoor patio with an
in-house library for brushing up on
Colombian and international literature,
and is great for sipping Ron Medellín - a
local rum whose 8-year aged variety I
recommend you try. Meet friends at
Rincón de los Recuerdos for a refajomade
with beer, a touch of rum and
Colombiana (the country’s orange soda
that tastes a bit like bubble gum and
fruit punch mixed together)-and chill
out to the sound of vintage records
filling the air. La Tienda
(www.latiendaparrandabar.com) in
nearby Sabaneta, is where to visit for a
classic fonda experience - an inn
complete with flashing Christmas
lights, animal heads suspended on the
walls and a cavorting dwarf to
entertain patrons. This experience is
truly Paisa, and a popular hangout for
localswho rendezvousfor a sing-along,
drink the regional aniseed based liquor
aguardiente, play the raspa (a rustic
cylindrical instrument made of fine
grates and played with a long pronged
fork) and snack on corn arepas, pork
flavored crisps and fresh popcorn. For a
more sophisticated ambience, try the
bar at Ocio restaurant
(www.restauranteocionline.com) or
drop into Humo BBQ & Bar for an
elaborate cocktail.
In an age of excessive consumerism,
technology, social media and general
global chaos, Medellín aspires to get
back to its roots and to revive the best
aspects of a city that was plagued by
tragedy and violence for so long.
Medellín is trying to find its identity, a
new identity, and it is certainly well on
its way to doing so.
Carmen Ángel
MUSEO DE ARTE MODERNO
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 85

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN
MY MEDELLÍN BY JORGE JULIÁN ARISTIZÁBAL
One of the country's most celebrated artists talks to The Cultured Traveller about his hometown of Medellín.
YOU STUDIED ART IN PRESTIGIOUS
INSTITUTIONS IN THE US AND EUROPE.
WOULD YOU SAY THAT YOU HAVE
RETAINED YOUR MAIN CREATIVE
INFLUENCES FROM COLOMBIA?
An artist is the combination of many things, and
one’s country of birth and ethnicity have a big
influence on their creative foundations. The places
where one has been educated can also greatly
impact upon an artist, but never as profoundly as
the culture they belong to.
YOU ARE FROM MEDELLÍN, AS IS
FAMED ARTIST FERNANDO
BOTERO. HAS SUPPORT FOR THE
ARTS GROWN BECAUSE OF YOUR
AND HIS SUCCESS?
Medellín is a very young city in many
aspects, and we are just starting to build
the appropriate environment to help and
support creative people. It is still early
days, and the solitary path of the artist is
still very difficult, and at the same time
very challenging. Botero is a highly
respected artist and someone who has
been extremely generous to Medellín.
IT TAKES COURAGE FOR AN ARTIST TO GIVE
THE PUBLIC AN OPPORTUNITY TO INTERPRET
THEIR ART AS YOU DID DURING THE MEDELLÍN
ART FAIR. WHAT WERE YOUR REASONS FOR
DOING THIS?
That’s exactly what artists do: they challenge the viewer
because it is the observer’s interpretation of a piece of
art that matters more than anything else. I think that
when an artist looses his or her ability to surprise the
audience, perhaps something is not quite right. A work
should be fresh and exciting. Of course it doesn’t always
happen this way, but speaking for myself, this is
ultimately my goal - to present stimulating pieces that
make people interpret them as they see fit.
PLEASE REVEAL TO US YOU
(1) BEACH, (2) PLACE OF NA
BEAUTY, AND (3) CULTURA
COLOMBIA.
The beach of Providencia Island
For stunning natural beauty, the
Macarena national park. Our co
cultural sites are the Escuela de
Santo Domingo, and The Nation
both in Bogotá.
86 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

WHERE ARE YOUR
FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT,
DRINK, PLAY AND SLEEP IN
MEDELLÍN?
The best international cuisine in
Medellín is to be found at Naan
restaurant, which offers the most
delectable Indian food to be found
in our corner of the planet. For a
typically Colombian taste, I savour
the ambience at Ocio, which serves
delicious food, especially its
slow-cooked meaty specialities.
Ocio’s bar is my favourite in the
city. For fun and leisure, I like to
spend as much time as possible at
home, in my own private space.
And for the best sleep, again, at
home in my own bed.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE
COLOMBIAN DISH?
I have two: empanadas which are pasties
with varying fillings, and arepas - the
Colombian version of tortillas - that are
stuffed or topped with your choice of
ingredients.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE
HOTEL OR RESORT IN
COLOMBIA AND WHY?
Casa de Las Aguas is a magical place
to stay in the charming town of
Honda, set amongst lush, un-spoilt
nature. Honda remains relatively
unknown so you won’t find crowds of
people around. It’s often called ‘the city
of bridges’, with more than 25 of them
crossing the Magdalena and other major
rivers in close proximity.
WHY DO YOU THINK THAT COLOMBIA IS A
HOT PLACE FOR TOURISTS TO VISIT?
Firstly, Colombia offers a diverse range of settings
with assorted climates, the continent’s two oceans on
either side, jungles, flatlands, mountain ranges and
much more. These make the country an intriguing
choice for our growing number of visitors. Then,
because of past political and social turmoil,
Colombia had not developed as a popular travel
destination, but these days are different and people
are becoming increasingly curious about this
exciting, mysterious land. And finally, Colombians
are extremely kind people, helpful, happy and
friendly. Hospitality is always a big draw for visitors.
WHO IS YOUR ULTIMATE
COLOMBIAN HERO AND
WHY?
Without a doubt, my heroes are the
under-privileged, the people who
face hardship and struggle every
day for a better quality of life for
themselves and their families.
R FAVOURITE
TURAL
L SITE IN
is my favourite.
Serranía de la
untry’s best
Artes y Oficios
al Museum -
‘COLOMBIA IS ONE OF THE WORLD’S
BEST KEPT TRAVEL SECRETS, AND
BECAUSE OF THIS REMAINS AN
AUTHENTIC AND UNIQUE
DESTINATION FOR VISITORS’
WHAT DO YOU
THINK MAKES
COLOMBIA SUCH A
UNIQUE
DESTINATION?
Colombia is one of the
world’s best kept travel
secrets, and because of
this remains an
authentic and unique
destination for visitors.
WHERE IS YOUR FAVOURITE HIDDEN
SPOT IN MEDELLÍN AND WHY?
I live in El Museo el Castillo - an area built upon
the legend of a Colombian man’s timeless love
for his wife. It is fondly known as the Taj Mahal
of Colombia - visually perplexing with its
peculiar and disproportionately designed
structures. Our beautifully fashioned gardens and
amazing, locally crafted exhibits make the park
here a really interesting place to visit - and a
wonderful location for a picnic.
NAME ONE THING A VISITOR TO
COLOMBIA SHOULD NOT LEAVE THE
COUNTRY WITHOUT SEEING OR
EXPERIENCING.
To meet the heart of Colombia, visit its
small towns, feel our culture, travel by road
and stay in places not yet known to
mainstream tourism.
www.jorgejulianaristizabal.com

TA
TE
& S SIP
CARMEN
MEDELLÍN
MARÍA
CARTAGENA
SLOW COOKED COW'S BELLY "SOBREBARRIGA" OVER
POTATOES, COULIFLOWER AND TOMATO CHEESE SAUCE
MARÍA, CARTAGENA
88

Move over Peru, Colombia's restaurant
evolution is not just the talk of Latin
America but also keen foodies and
culinary commentators around the globe.
Colombia possesses an extensive and varied
gastronomic repertoire, thanks to the infinite
variety of spices, fruits, vegetables and meats
available domestically. Bogotá, Medellín and
Cartagena are not only hotbeds of budding
cooking talent, but also home to some of the
best eateries in the region. Accomplished chefs
- like Leonora Espinosa - are taking the
produce of this incredibly bio-diverse country
and using it as ingredients to lovingly create
the most magnificent dishes imaginable,
boasting detail and depth in addition to
unique flavours and glorious colours. A trip to
Colombia is not only a treat for the eyes and
ears but also a culinary tour de force for the
tastebuds.

90

TA
TE
& S SIP
CARMEN
MEDELLÍN
Food
Atmosphere
Being a details man myself I completely believe in
Carmen's motto "Love is in the details". Ludwig
Mies van der Rohe, one of the pioneers of
modern architecture, was spot on when he
coined his iconic aphorism back in the 1950's, and it's a
mantra I try to live by day-to-day. If you are going to do
something do it properly or not at all. The details are oh
so important. A restaurant can serve the most spectacular
food but poor service can let down everything and a
customer can leave feeling like he's had a floored experience,
irrespective of how delectable the cuisine was. This
is the difficult thing about running a restaurant - there are
so many variables to get right. Just one, tiny thing can
spell disaster for an otherwise incredible meal. A truly
great restaurant is one where everything happens in
seamless equilibrium. McDonalds is a global megabrand
because it sells fast, satisfying food that's delivered hot
and quickly. It may not be my preferred meal, but the
experience is complete and all parts of the product work
in unison.
While in Medellín I snacked on an empanada
purchased from a tiny shop on a side street close to my
hotel. My friend Dwight told me that these were not to be
missed. He was right. That was my first empanada ever
and I shan't forget it in a hurry. I think it cost about a
dollar. The taste was sensational and I had a memorable
food experience in little more than a few minutes.
Halfway back to my hotel I stopped in my tracks and
pondered turning back to get another. I literally stood on
the pavement and thought about the pros and cons of a
second empanada. People passing must have thought I
was a loon, since I do believe I may have been talking to
myself. Had I not been having dinner at Carmen that
night, I would almost certainly have turned back.
It has to be said that Carmen is much hyped. It has
been lauded by the New York Times and many other
similar such media statesmen. This makes the job of a
restaurateur harder not easier. Delivering top quality fare,
impeccably served and getting all the variables right, night
after night, is hard enough. But doing it when people are
coming through the door expecting a mind-blowing
culinary happening, rather than just looking for a bloody
good meal, makes the life of a restaurant-owner more
difficult than one can imagine. Thankfully the owners of

Carmen have each other to lean on and bounce ideas
between. Husband and wife team Rob Pevitts and
Carmen Ángel trained at the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu
cooking school in San Francisco, and their creativeness
and zest pretty much echo the philosophy of the reborn
city in which they live. Not dissimilar to Medellín’s vibrant
new architecture (Biblioteca España and MAMM) and
funky modes of public transport (escalators and cable
cars), this Colombian-American gastronomic power
couple have forged a niche for themselves in Colombia’s
restaurant industry, by reimagining dishes with vitality
and flair, and serving them in visually-pleasing, elegant
yet warm surroundings. Their restaurant - separated into
three distinct areas - is a tribute to chic, rustic minimalism,
and their cooking fuses traditional Colombian ingredients
with selected South American and Asian influences to
great and somewhat unique effect.
Long before Carmen herself said hi, I was impressed by
the warmth of the welcome and politeness of my server.
He couldn’t have made me feel more at home if he tried.
He recommended I start the evening with Gin Basil, a
TAS
TE
cocktail made with homemade tonic and ginger syrup. He
was spot on. The 5-course tasting menu at USD45 poses
excellent value and enables the kitchen to shine in a
multitude of ways. My starter of homemade shrimp
chorizo was delicious - the moist sausage skillfully lifted
with coconut spices, and the few spoons of furikake dashi
completing the dish perfectly. This was a gentle and
delicate start to the meal, and an adept example of the
detailed and tenderly prepared dishes to come. The
second course of Pacific coast amberjack with plantain
crust, served on coconut rice risotto with banana and rum
purée and a divine fruit sauce, was beautifully presented
TIRADITO
CARMEN
Food:
Atmosphere:
Executive chef: Rob Pevitts
Co-chef: Carmen Ángel
Address: Carrera 36 # 10A-27 El Poblado, Medellín, Colombia
Telephone: +57 (4) 311 9625
Email: manuela.carmenrestaurante@gmail.com
Website: www.carmenrestaurante.com.co
Cuisine: Contemporary Colombian
Lunch: Tuesday - Friday
Dinner: Monday - Saturday
Lunch price: Beef tartar (COP 28,000), Bahía Solano (COP
47,000), Strawberries & cream (COP 15,000)
Dinner price: Young octopus (COP 33,000), Pork two ways
(COP 45,000), Napoleon (COP 16,000)
Ideal meal: 5-course tasting menu including wine pairings
(COP 149,000)
Reservations: Essential
Wheelchair access: Yes
Children: Not welcome
Credit cards: All major
Parking: Valet available
Reviewed by: Nicholas Chrisostomou on 9 November 2015 for dinner.
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.
92 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

& SI P
The Taste & Sip
team chatted with
Rob Pevitts
Executive Chef
Carmen
and bursting with flavours. This was an accomplished dish
that you could tell had been honed to perfection.
Next up was Carmen’s contemporary take on chicharrón.
Pevitts and Ángel’s inspired incarnation of this classic
Colombian speciality was modernised with a superb
tamarind & palm sugar glaze to the pork, and accompanied
with camote purée, Sichuan-style green beans, a
spiced pork jus and some crackling, although there was
not enough of the latter for me. One can never have too
much crackling. Again this dish was tremendously
detailed, full of flavours and evidently lovingly assembled.
I could easily have had seconds, it was that tasty. The
HOW DID YOU COME TO OPEN
THE FIRST CARMEN RESTAURANT?
I studied at Le Cordon Bleu-California Culinary
Academy in San Francisco, which is where I met
Carmen. After a few years working in Bay area
restaurants and running our catering company,
Inspired Table, we were presented with the opportunity
to open a restaurant in Medellín with our partner
Diego, Carmen’s father.
WHAT WOULD YOU SAY ARE CARMEN'S UNIQUE SELLING
POINTS?
Our mantra is “love is in the details” and I think we
apply that philosophy in everything we do. We have
exacting quality standards for our ingredients and we
are always trying to push forward and innovate to
create new flavours and textures. We also have an
amazing team of passionate individuals, many of whom
have been with us for 5 years or more.
TELL US ABOUT THE ATMOSPHERE AND THE CUSTOMERS
AT CARMEN.
Carmen in Medellín enjoys a hip and fun atmosphere
that’s never stuffy. We are very proud of the various
ambiences that have been able to create. It’s a fine
dining restaurant, but leave the suit and tie at home.
Our customers are a lively mix of locals and tourists.
CORDERO
main course of 26-hour slow-cooked beef cheeks was so
deeply flavourful I found myself making the meat last as
long as possible by slowly placing smaller and smaller
pieces in my mouth. A complete triumph, the beef left just
enough room for a chocoholic’s dream dessert,
‘Choco-Coco’, comprising coconut pavlova’s, Colombian
dark chocolate mousse and devil’s food cake, decorated
with a white chocolate foam. This sugary grand finale
upheld my belief that all the best meals close with chocolate,
in some guise or another.
What keeps people coming to a restaurant is the service,
the surroundings, the people who run the show and
consistently good cooking. Plus a little bit of music and
damn good cocktails. Carmen is the perfect balance of all
these elements and so much more than dinner. Even
without the eponymous host seated at our table, my
experience of Carmen was one of the most memorable
meals of my time in Colombia. This is one restaurant
which was deserving of all the hype, and to which I would
return like a shot.
Nicholas Chrisostomou
WHAT’S THE CREATIVE PROCESS FOR A NEW MAIN
COURSE DISH.
We draw inspiration from everywhere: maybe a strange
new Amazonian fruit, a visit to a museum, a new
technique or something that Carmen and I cooked at
home. After that, it can be a very organic trial and
tweaking period with various key team members
contributing to the final product. We perpetually fine-tune,
perfecting every dish until it is the best it can possibly be.
HOW DO YOU MANAGE TO RUN THREE RESTAURANTS?
It’s all about the team and system; a defined system
and passionate, inspired team members that execute
excellent standards within that system. It’s also about
having fun and creating a family atmosphere.
WHAT'S CARMEN’S SIGNATURE DISH?
One of our fish dishes - de Bahia Solano. Even though it
has evolved over the years, it will probably always
feature on our menu.
NAME ONE GASTRONOMICAL ACHIEVEMENT YOU
ASPIRE TO.
To never stop evolving and to always strive to be better
than the day before. Oh, and if Michelin ever makes it
to Colombia, I wouldn’t mind a star or two.

THE
FOOD
DE BAHÍA SOLANO
PLANTAIN CRUSTED FISH, COCONUT RICE
RISOTTO, BABY BANANA & RUM PURÉE
PASIONARIA SAUCE
Courtesy of Rob Pevitts
Executive Chef, Carmen
Adapted from an original recipe
This dish is on the menu at Carmen in
Medellín and Cartagena
This recipe serves four people
94

INGREDIENTS
800 grams fresh fish (tuna, sea bass,
grouper)
80 grams green plantain, paper thin
slices
20 grams toasted bread crumbs
5 grams chive coins
salt & white pepper to taste
Oil for frying
Butter for finishing
FOR THE RISOTTO
350 grams short grain sushi rice,
rinsed
400 grams fresh coconut, grated
600 ml unsweetened coconut water,
heated
900 ml fish fume or seafood stock
10 grams brown sugar
80 ml coconut milk, unsweetened
120 ml whipping cream
40 grams butter
For the banana rum purée:
200 grams sweet, ripe baby banana (or
normal banana)
25 grams butter
25 ml rum
FOR THE PASIONARIA SAUCE
20 grams curuba fruit
20 grams gulupa fruit
12 grams granadilla fruit
15 grams passion fruit
10 grams honey
30-90 ml fish fume, depending on fruit
PREPARATION
For the plantain crust, heat frying oil to 350˚F and deep fry the plantain slices until golden and
crispy, about 1 minute. Place on a tray lined with absorbent paper, season to taste with salt,
and allow to dry in a warm place (above the oven) for at least 1 hour.
For the coconut cream, combine the coconut milk with the cream and beat with a whisk until
thick. Refrigerate.
For the risotto, combine the fresh grated coconut and heated coconut water in a blender and
process on high speed for 3 minutes. Strain the mixture, forcefully extracting all the liquid
directly into a heavy bottomed pot. Reduce on medium-high heat until approximately 90% of
the liquid has evaporated. What will be left is the coconut “titote”, the Colombian name for the
concentrated caramelized coconut particles. Reduce the heat to medium, mix in the brown
sugar and cook for another few minutes. Add the rice to the pot and parch the rice in the
titote, stirring constantly until the majority of the grains become translucent, approximately
3-4 minutes. Add 600 ml of warmed fish or seafood broth and bring to a boil. Cook the rice at
a rolling boil for 4-5 minutes, reduce heat to low, and cover. Cook until all the liquid has been
absorbed and the rice is al dente.
For the baby banana purée, put all ingredients into a small pot and simmer over low heat for
15 minutes. Transfer to the blender and process for 3-5 minutes until velvety-smooth, pass
through a fine mesh strainer. If the purée is too thick, a small amount of fish or seafood broth
may be added. Season with salt to taste.
For the pasionaria sauce, put all ingredients into a small pot and bring to just a boil, reserve.
When slightly cooled, process the mixture in the blender on high for 3 minutes, pass through
a fine mesh strainer, discard the seeds and pulp. Season with salt to taste.
To finish the dish, slice the fish into four 200 gram portions and season both sides with salt
and white pepper. Using a food processor, pulse the plantain chips until a rustic powder
forms. Combine the plantain powder with the chives and bread crumbs and mix well, season
with salt. Crust 1 side of each portion of fish with the plantain mixture. Heat 2 nonstick pans
over medium high heat and add 1 tablespoon of oil to each pan. Place 2 portions of fish in
each pan, non-crust side down and sear for 1-2 minutes. Place a tablespoon of butter on top
of each portion and roast in the oven for 2-3 minutes. For the risotto, bring the remaining 300
ml of fish or seafood stock to a boil over medium heat, add the rice and cook until almost all
of the liquid has been absorbed. Fold in the coconut milk whipped cream and stirring
constantly, cook for 2-3 minutes. Finish with a tablespoon of butter, being careful not to
over-reduce the coconut cream mixture. The risotto should be creamy and “run” when plated.
Take the pans out of the oven and baste the fish with the pan butter, adding a little more to
the pan if necessary. Heat the pasionaria sauce and banana purée over low heat until warm.
Serve the fish over the risotto accompanied by the purée and sauce.

96

TA
TE
& S SIP
MARÍA
CARTAGENA
Food
Atmosphere

TAS
TE
Colombia’s culinary philosophy has been
transformed. Our understanding of dining,
eating out and recognising the finest cuisine
has become essential to the country’s culture
and economy. Incredible chefs of the highest calibre now
have a reason to use the rich ingredients of the Andes,
Amazon, Pacific and Atlantic oceans - combined with
their formal educations and brilliant talents - to grow the
identity of Colombian cuisine. As a result, all of the
country’s larger cities now have vibrant and sophisticated
restaurant scenes. Set within the magical, walled old city,
Situated on a picturesque street in the historic coastal
town of Cartagena, we arrived at María via a cobblestone
road, with the sound of horses and carriages trotting by.
The double doors with lanterns either side and large
windows peeking in to a wild décor, had us enticed from
the get-go. Once inside, high ceilings and the use of blue
and white gave an airy feel, while the unmissable tiger
print on the wall set the place apart as fresh and bold. In
the back, the kitchen is shared between the two
neighbouring restaurants, Don Juan and María, whose
talented chefs create their dishes in astonishing
SEARED YELLOW TAIL TUNA, SPICY PINEAPPLE SAUCE AND MICROGREENS
one of Cartagena’s most esteemed culinary addresses is
undoubtedly María.
Celebrated New World cuisine chefs, Juan Felipe Camacho
from Ibagué and Alejandro Rámirez from Bogotá, are
completely aware that Colombia’s burgeoning food scene
has provided them their release of unbound creativity.
The two met as stars on the rise in Cartagena,
collaborating to introduce María only after accumulating
sound credentials. Rámirez has worked in many kitchens
throughout the world including Daniel’s in Manhattan, and
Gordon Ramsey in London and Tokyo. Camacho studied
in San Sebastián, Spain, and made a name for himself
preparing dishes that reflected his curiosity of the land
and its produce. He has consulted for restaurants around
the world, in locations such as Panama and New York, and
he commands the orders at his accomplished restaurant
Don Juan - often name-checked as one of Cartagena’s best
eateries, creating unpretentious cuisine that concentrates
on produce and getting the very best out of each and
every ingredient. Both chefs have come together to create
the magic that is their restaurant, María.
synchrony. From my view at one of the booths, I could
appreciate all the eccentric details, from the vibrant tiled
flooring to the pineapple chandeliers.
Well-informed staff catered to our every requirement
with a friendly and warm manner, displaying a thorough
knowledge of the menu items and cocktails on offer.
From sweet mandarin to bitter corozo, and the unusual
tree tomato to extremely rare produce like uchuva: these
are the splendid fruits of Colombia that were used to
make our exquisite, delicious cocktails which we
thoroughly enjoyed.
María’s menu is a reflection of the chefs’ travels and features
a little bit of everything - rib eye, quinoa, line-caught fish
from the Colombian Atlantic and risottos made with the
freshest ingredients delivered daily. Sea-foodies can savour
tempura fish and chips, and a delectable lobster sandwich
with dill, served with home-made mayonnaise and other
funky condiments, whilst meat lovers can indulge in
meatballs with mint and fresh tomato sauce, or the
tempting sour pork cubes on rice with peppers and onions.
98 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

& SI P
As the plates started to arrive, we were dazzled by the way
in which this culinary artistry acquired both robust flavours -
as from the aromatic lamb sliders - to subtle delights for the
senses with the exceptional tuna tataki. My absolutely
favorite dish however, was the grilled fresh sea bass with
artichoke and cassava ragout - an intense taste
experience that was captivating from beginning to end.
When I asked Alejandro about his inspiration, he simply
replied, ‘I cook what I love to eat’.
In his quest for the finest produce, Rámirez has created a
menu filled with taste sensations, executed with the
utmost purity utilising traditional cooking techniques
hailing from all over the globe. The flavours of many of
the dishes served at María are fiery and the textures
intriguing, composed using ingredients from extremely
diverse climates around Colombia, which offer the
possibility to produce plates that surprise and impress.
Rámirez is on the frontline of serving fine cuisine in the
search for simplicity, truly creating a name for himself
and contemporary Colombian cuisine.
Sophia Brault
GRILLED SEABASS OVER A BEETROOT RISOTTO AND FETA CHEESE
CORDERO
MARÍA
Food:
Atmosphere:
Executive chef: Alejandro Rámirez
Address: Calle del Colegio # 34 - 64, Local 2, Cartagena,
Colombia
Telephone: +57 316 524 7046
Email: reservas@mariacartagena.com
Website: www.mariacartagena.com
Cuisine: Contemporary Colombian
Lunch: Monday - Friday
Dinner: Monday - Saturday
Lunch price: Sea bass ceviche (COP 26,000), Sea bass grilled
over red risotto and feta cheese (COP 39,000), chocolate
rice pudding with vanilla ice cream and cocadas (COP 15,000).
Dinner price & ideal meal: Beef tataki (COP 27,000), grilled sea bass
with artichoke and cassava ragout (COP 39,000), white chocolate
soup, bitter chocolate biscuit, uchuva jam and mint (COP 15,000).
Reservations: Essential
Wheelchair access: Yes
Children: Welcome. High chairs available. No kids menu
Credit cards: All major
Parking: No parking
Reviewed by: Sophia Brault on 10 November 2015 for dinner.
Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

www.aguademar.com.co

JUANES
LATIN AMERICA’S BIGGEST ST
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER AB
102

music&
NIGHT
LIFE
AR, GRAMMY AWARD-WINNING LEGEND JUANES TALKED EXCLUSIVELY TO
OUT HIS MUSICAL JOURNEY TO INTERNATIONAL STARDOM, POLITICS, HIS
HUMANITARIAN FOUNDATION AND MEDELLÍN, HIS HOMETOWN

How difficult was it to leave your band Ekhymosis at
possibly one of the most successful points in your
careers?
It was not difficult because we had learned and grown
together for a long time and decided to each follow our
own individual dreams and projects. Our first show took
place in Envigado, a little neighbourhood in Medellín on
the 17 th March 1988, and in our 12 years together I
learned a huge amount and we
achieved a lot.
What inspires your lyrics
more, politics or the love of
your people?
Both, but I am mostly inspired by
love. Love of my country, my
family, of human beings. Love is
the most powerful energy we
have in this life. Everything is
about love and particularly with
my 2014 album Loco De Amor, I
wrote songs as if observing a ray
of love through a prism and its approach to relationships,
how love sometimes takes us through stages that are
extremely wonderful or extremely terrible and how after
that, there is an immense feeling of emptiness - and
everything has to do with that feeling of love. That’s why I
wanted to make an album about that topic.
Your band was arguably one of the pioneers of Latin
Rock, influencing many others. Did the change
between being in a rock band and going solo have a
significant effect on your own musical influences at
the time?
No. I have always liked many
different types of music. The first
show I ever went to, when I was 6
or 7 years old, was that of
Argentinian band Los Hermanos
Visconti. They sang popular,
folkloric songs. I also went to see
Dueto de Antaño, a ballad group
from Medellín. As a young teen I
got into heavy metal bands such
as Kraken and Reencarnación, and
although I moved from folklore to
metal, my tastes have always
remained varied. I grew up
listening to (tango legend) Carlos Gardel and then became
obsessed with Metallica!
Have you ever been afraid of putting certain lyrics
out publicly?
Of course, because writing music is very personal. There is
something curious…fear is our worst enemy and if you create
something based on fear, it will always end badly. With the
104 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016
I wanted to get closer
to Colombia through
art and music; to give
dignity, importance
and relevance to other
areas of the country
I have always been
public with my beliefs
and politics, so I do not
think I have had to
compromise them to
succeed
Loco De Amor album it was totally different: from the
moment I started to write the songs, no fear ever entered
my mind.
How was your latest tour in Colombia different to
previous ones?
My hope was to connect with places I’d not visited
before, and I took the show that gave me so much
inspiration to do that. At the
same time, I wanted to know
more about each region, know
its concerns and wishes, but
above all, unite hearts through
music. We wanted Loco De
Amor to take off in a different
way. I wanted to get closer to
Colombia through art and
music; to give dignity,
importance and relevance to
other areas of the country, and
break with the established
touring schedules.
Which are your favourite places in Medellín and why?
I love Parque Lleras: it is beautiful and has some great
restaurants. My true favorite place is my home right
outside of the city.
Where outside of Colombia have you enjoyed your
most memorable experiences?
I have been lucky enough to go to many amazing
places, but last summer I went to Israel for the first
time on tour and it was an amazing experience. We
visited Jerusalem and it is a place so full of spirituality,
it was very moving. I also had a
great time when I visited
McFarland in the US. I wrote
music for the film (of the same
name) which was released in
early 2015, and met local
people, out on the street, that
were extremely happy and
thankful that the film was
going to put McFarland on the
global map.
La Camisa Negra generated
a lot of controversy for
different reasons in
different countries: political in Italy, sexual in the
Dominican Republic. How do you interpret these
reactions to the song?
I think the lyrics lend themselves to be interpreted in
different ways. I see how people find different messages
in it. I have been a solo artist since 2000 and I have
enjoyed an incredible career. I’ve experienced so many

amazing things and I’m so grateful to my fans
for their support: (the song is also used in
Spanish language classes across the United
States). I think it’s awesome … music and art
are wonderful mediums for teaching.
Have you ever had to compromise your
beliefs or politics in order to succeed?
I have always been public with my beliefs
and politics so I do not think I have had to
compromise them to succeed. I live my
music intensely and through my music I
express my feelings - the good and bad.
There is always a fine line and you
sometimes cross it, sometimes not, I try to
avoid making mistakes but equally we are all
here to learn. I believe in music and I believe
in its culture as a means to create peace.
In 2005 Time magazine named you as
one of the world’s 100 most influential
people. Has this title had any effect in
your life?
It made it clear to me that people are
watching what I do, made me look at myself
as a role model, and made me step back and
see how my actions may influence others.
Please tell us about your humanitarian
work and what made you establish Mi
Sangre Foundation.
Growing up in Colombia, I saw a lot of pain
and suffering from the effects of land
mines. What is happening in the world
today is something difficult to look at, and
music is something that can be used as a
tool to send powerful messages. The
foundation is in the best place it has ever
been, we have a great leader and
spectacular team, and are continuing our
strong work not just in relation to mines but
also to bring to the forefront of people’s
minds everything that is related to peace.
We are working with adolescent mine
victims and connecting with them through
art. Now more than ever we believe that it’s
worthwhile and important to focus on the
arts as a way to build peace in our societies.
Outside of Medellín, which is your
favourite place in Colombia and what
makes it so special to you?
I love Cartagena. I have many great
memories of going there with my wife and
kids, paddle boarding and enjoying the
old city.

Which is your favourite Colombian food dish?
My favourite dish is arepa, a corn or flour based flatbread
that you can stuff with cheese, eggs, meat and other
fillings.
Medellín hosts a variety of yearly festivals - what’s
your favourite?
La Feria de las Flores is a festival that is truly beautiful. I
highly recommend it to visitors.
What would you say influenced and shaped you
musically?
I was very into metal music growing up. Playing metal
music helped me develop my guitar skills. I don’t know
what else I would do as music is the way I express myself.
I've learned many lessons in life and I have loved music
since I was a child. I would love to record some lines in
English or maybe do a couple of things in English. But I
can’t imagine doing a whole English album because I feel
more comfortable singing in Spanish. I think that it is also
part of my culture; I need to feel connected to my roots.
Please describe your experience singing at the
December 2007 Nobel Peace Prize Concert and what
it meant to you?
It was a very beautiful experience. Being surrounded by
these influential people all sending a message of peace
was quite moving. I hope that music will always continue
to be used to hightlight peace, unity and tolerance in our
societies.
You have performed duets with stars such as Carlos
Santana, Tony Bennett, and John Legend. How was
sharing a stage with them?
It is always an honour sharing the stage with such
talented musicians.
With whom would you like to duet next?
There are a lot of people who I would like to sing with,
especially Ed Sheeran or Maroon 5.
Where would you tell a traveller they could find
Colombia’s best kept secrets?
They should visit the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá. It is
beautiful. Also, if they like the ocean, to go to the Islas del
Rosario where they will find the most beautiful beaches.
What Colombian souvenir is a must-have for visitors
to your country?
A traditional Colombian hat, sombrero vueltiao. Also
visitors must see the unmissable documentary, Magia
Salvaje, because it showcases the very best of our
country.
www.juanes.net
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 107

IMAGE BY SONIA LA HOZ
108

GLOBETROTTER
FREQUENTLY NAMECHECKED AS ONE OF THE
COUNTRY'S BEST-DRESSED INDIVIDUALS, OFTEN
SEEN GRACING THE PAGES OF SOUTH AMERICA'S
GLOSSIEST MAGAZINES, AND ROUTINELY
CONSULTED FOR FASHION AND ART ADVICE,
GLORIA SALDARRIAGA TALKED EXCLUSIVELY TO
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT HER HERITAGE,
THE PASSIONS THAT FUEL HER CREATIVITY AND
WHAT INSPIRED THE VAMPIRELA BAG, PLUS HER
FAVOURITE DESIGNERS IN COLOMBIA AND THE UK

Graphic design was your chosen career, so how did
you make the transition into fashion?
I think my first transition was from art to fashion. I
used to run a contemporary art gallery and was
always involved in fashion from my modelling days
in my hometown of Medellin.
Please describe your style to international readers
It’s very difficult for me to describe this, as I don’t
like being boxed in to one particular style. I think that
I have a very aesthetic eye and I like everything, but I
also have confidence in the things that look good and
don’t like feeling restricted. I would say that
confidence and spontaneity are key, and whilst
fashion can have a serious context you should live it
in a spontaneous manner. I don’t follow fashion
because I am fashion!
Which Colombian designers or
fashion houses have inspired you the most?
There are certain
designers who have
enjoyed a long trajectory.
For me, Olga Piedrahita is
more than a designer, she
is also an artist. She
creates concepts around
her collections and that is
what I find so inspiring.
How has fashion
changed in Colombia in
the last decade?
I would say that designers haven’t changed but the
general public have. I have made it my work to
support Colombian designers and I’m generally
dressed in their garments, something that I take great
pride in. The people of Colombia are now embracing
national designers and have changed their view about
wearing Colombian! I travel expensively and I’m
always delighted that each time I wear something
from home everyone always notices it, without it
being a particular artisan piece. Our designers have
made the transition into dressing the global woman,
which makes me very pleased.
Why do you think Medellin has become one of the
key fashion spots in Latin America?
Medellin has hosted the Colombia Moda conference
for the last 26 years and as a result has always been
one of the pioneers and incubators of fashion. The
event is very ambitious in terms of content, and has
placed Colombia and Medellin in the orbit of the
fashion satellite of Latin America.
I have made it my work to
support Colombian
designers and I’m
generally dressed in their
garments, something that
I take great pride in.
When and how did you become involved in the art
world?
When I got married 12 years ago I moved from
Medellin to Bogota, and being a graphic designer I
always had sensibilities rooted in art. Many of my
teachers and friends were artists so my husband
and I decided to start collecting Colombian works
of art. The process of being a collector is very
beautiful. You start off collecting pieces that are
from your generation and your country, then as you
become more of an expert you realise that your
mind has been opened to other potentials and other
mediums. So for example you can then move from
purchasing a painting to an installation or even
performance art. The whole process really became
just a joy, so eventually my husband and I decided
to open up a gallery ‘Alcuadrado’ (a Spanish play
on words that can mean squared but also implies
the frame of a painting). The gallery was very
pioneering and was appointed as the elite of
contemporary art in Colombia. We took risks, broke
the mould and
introduced things that
had never been done
before- like showcasing
exhibitions in non-art
spaces.
You were recently
named as one of the
‘top 5 best dressed
women in Colombia’ by
Vogue. Does that
accolade help to influence your style or does it not
matter at all?
I have no interest in such accolades! I accept and
appreciate their comments however it makes no
difference to me because I don’t see myself as
someone better than another- in either art or fashion.
You have reached critical and commercial heights
in both fashion and art. How much did one
influence another in terms of curating galleries or
fashion shows?
Others may consider me an expert however I’ve
never considered myself an specialist in either of
these areas! As I mentioned before, I’m very
spontaneous and so I would say I’m more of an
enthusiast in spite of being asked my opinion on so
many different things. I do like being a spokesperson
for things that I like, as I love being able to support
designers or artists so that others may be able to
discover them. I am an enthusiast for life, art and
fashion, and fortunately one’s eye becomes more
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 111

educated and refined over time. Age also gives you a
delicious security to make decisions!
Does your love of using unusual spaces to exhibit
art shows extend to your fashion collection?
I buy pieces that are also works of art because of my
background, however fashion has become so
democratic that for example Exito, (Colombia’s
largest supermarket chain), have now curated a
fashion collection from national designers. I find that
fascinating because even though they may make 100
jackets of the same style, how you wear one is not
going to be in the same way that someone else does. I
like exclusive fashion but I am also disposed to wear
something that 200 others have purchased because it
becomes a challenge to wear it with your own
panache.
You seem to be a person who likes to take risks.
What is the riskiest fashion statement you have
made?
Wearing hats! In this
country this is not a
popular garment so
when I wear hats people
are a little shocked, but I
don’t wear them for that
reason, I wear them
because I just love them.
I would definitely say
that hats and fans are my
trademark!
Do you think being a graphic designer made it
easier for you to produce your own handbag
collection, or do you think you were a lot more
critical because of your background?
This was easy for me because it’s part of my
essence. The handbags came about because- like
everything in my life- it was something very
spontaneous. My friend has had the brand for
many years (Postino), and I’ve always liked it but it
never really ‘got’ me. A year ago I asked her if I
could produce a collection for her and she agreed.
The symbiosis has worked so well because she is an
expert in leathers and I have my graphic design. It’s
been a lovely collaboration, and there is a bag
called ‘Vampirela’ that attracts much attention. It
was inspired on a very personal level. I have a
cartoon of myself which is called ‘El Bestiario de
Gloria’ which I use on social media in order to
showcase products in a less obvious way. I get sent
many things and don’t want to feel obliged to wear
one thing or another, so this was a way to deflect
112 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016
I have made it my work to
support Colombian
designers and I’m
generally dressed in their
garments, something that I
take great pride in.
certain comments and make my fashion and styling
fun. This is my business alter ego, and somewhere
I don’t need to feel any kind of embarrassment
about what I’m wearing. It’s a very recent creation
and we’ve come up with just 9 different caricatures
of myself so far. The Vampirela was also inspired
by Fendi and Anya Hindmarch, who use
caricatures or eyes on some of their collections.
Vampirela has fangs because in this way I’m
laughing at my own imperfections, as I have little
fangs myself! My teeth are horrible! People are
going crazy on social media, using so many filters
to make themselves or their lives look perfect, but
I’m the opposite- I’m happy to show my flaws!
When I was unable to make Frieze in London I sent a
cut out version of myself and my wardrobe, my
cartoon has been a useful creation all round!
What are the most important things you pack when
travelling abroad?
A pashmina. I can wear it in so many different waysas
a scarf, dress, shawl,
headscarf- it is super
useful.
Tell us about your
decision to resign from
your gallery,
Alcuadrado.
My husband died six
years ago and I remained
at the gallery for a
further six months. After
that I couldn’t carry on as this was our joint project, a
project made with love. We complimented eachother
enormously. But in spite of resigning from the gallery,
I have not resigned from my passions. I’m still very
much involved in art, exhibitions, collections…just in
a different way.
Has your style and creativity been influenced by
the death of your husband, given that you were
such a united and artistic team?
When you are with a person you are left with their
fingerprints, their DNA. My husband was a hugely
creative person and he changed my way of life. The
legacy he has left me with is something very special,
however his passing has not changed my creativity.
You and your husband have been great champions
of promoting Colombian art internationally. Where
in the world do you think have been the most well
received collections? And why?
We travelled to so many places but I think that a

compilation we sold in
Switzerland to a now
closed public collection
called Daros was
something very
important, because it was
the first time anyone had
recognised Colombia as
having a serious artistic
potential. They bought
many Colombian works
of art which were old and
no-one in Colombia had
been interested in, yet
Daros had a vision and as
a result helped to elevate
the profile of many
Colombian artists on an
international level.
Who are the most
exciting fashion
designers emerging in
Colombia right now?
Johanna Ortiz is the
‘most’ – although I’m not
a fan of using that wordshe
is a supremely hard
working designer and
the first in Colombia to
be able to sell in Moda
Operandi, Pret a Porter
so she has been the most
widely recognised on an
international level.
Aside for
weather-appropriate
dressing, are there huge
differences in style in
between Bogota,
Medellin and
Cartagena?
Fashion has really
opened up, and sadly
even the weather too
because of global
warming so climates are
not longer than distinct.
In Bogota it would be
strange to see people
wearing pastels, white
jeans or open toed shoes
for example, (Bogota is

cold), but now you see
them much more often.
The only differences are
logical ones..if you are on
the coast you won’t be
wearing a fur jacket!
What are the most
important fashion items
we should wear when
traveling in Colombia?
A hat and a ‘Ruana’!
(This is a Colombian
poncho, made from wool.
And a very typical
Andean item.) I have one
that they designed
specially for Nairo
Quintana (Colombia’s
top cyclist and one of the
best in the world), when
he won the Italian tour.
It’s pink because that is
the colour jersey they
present to the winner, so
it was specially created in
homage to him because
he comes from Boyaca,
the region where he is
from, which is famous for
their ruanas!
What is your view on
British fashion and who
do you think are the
best Brit designers?
British fashion has
influenced the whole
world. It started off with
‘swinging London’ which
was THE fashion.
Vivienne Westwood and
many designers who
graduated from St
Martins have been very
important for the rest of
us. For men, Saville Row
tailoring has been
incredible, and
Christopher Kane, Stella
McCartney, Phillip Treacy
and Cutler & Gross have
all broken the mould. I
adore their brands.
February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 115

A
Acqua Santa www.acquasantahotel.com
Ajiacos y Mondongos www.ajiacosymondongos.co
Andrés DC www.andrescarnederes.com/es
Apache www.clickclackhotel.com
Astrid & Gastón www.astridygastonbogota.com
Au Room www.wbogota.com/en/auroom
Avianca www.avianca.com
B
Barranquilla Carnival
www.carnavaldebarranquilla.org
Bastion www.bastionluxuryhotel.com
Best Restaurants Colombia
www.bestrestaurantsincolombia.com
C
Carmen www.carmenrestaurante.com.co
Casa Galavanta www.galavanta.com
Casa San Isidro www.restaurantecasasanisidro.com
Case de las Aguas
www.facebook.com/casa.delasaguas
Céntrico www.centrico.co
Cesar Giraldo www.cesargiraldo.com.co
Cholao Santi www.facebook.com/cholaosanti70
Ciudad del Rio www.ciudaddelrio.com
CopaAirlines www.copaair.com
Criterion www.hermanosrausch.com
D
Deep Blue www.hoteldeepblue.com
Donostia www.elorigendelacomida.co/donostia
E
EasyFly www.easyfly.com.co
El Café de Otraparte
www.facebook.com/CafedeOtraparte
El Gato Gris www.gatogris.com
El Machetico www.empanadaselmachetico.com
El Pescador de Colores
www.elpescadordecolores.com
El Son De Los Grillos www.elsondelosgrillos.com
Entremonte Wellness Hotel & Spa
www.entremonte.com
F
Festival Of Lights
www.villadeleyva-boyaca.gov.co/listado_eventos.shtml
Festival Of The Sea www.fiestadelmar.com.co
Festival Of Wayuú Culture
www.colombia.com/turismo/ferias-y-fiestas/festivalde-la-cultura-wayuu
Flower Fair www.feriadelasfloresmedellin.gov.co
G
Galería Valenzuela-Klenner www.vkgaleria.com
Guatavita www.colombia.travel
H
Hay Festival
www.hayfestival.com/cartagena/en-index.aspx
Helistar www.helistar.com.co
Hotel Boutique Don Pepe
www.facebook.com/hotelboutiquedonpepe?_rdr=p
I
Independence Of Cartagena www.srtacolombia.org
International Tango Festival
www.festivaldetangomedellin.com
L
La Tienda www.latiendaparrandabar.com
LAN www.lan.com
116 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants
www.theworlds50best.com/latinamerica/en
Leo Cocina Y Cava www.leococinaycava.com
Little Indian Superstar
www.facebook.com/littleindiansuperstar
Loto del Sur www.lotodelsur.com
M
María www.mariacartagena.com
Market Kitchen www.marketkitchenbogota.com
Matiz www.matizrestaurante.com
Merecumbe Hotel www.merecumbehotel.com/en
Mi Viejo www.miviejo.co
Miss Colombia Pageant www.srtacolombia.org
Monserrate www.cerromonserrate.com
Movich Buró 51
www.movichhotels.com/esp/Pages/home-movich.aspx
Museo de Antioquia www.museodeantioquia.co
Museo de Arte Moderno www.elmamm.org
Museo del Oro www.banrep.gov.co/museo
N
Naan www.naansaboresdeindia.com
O
Ocio www.restauranteocionline.com
Opera In The Park
www.filarmonicabogota.gov.co/newsite/etiquetas/ope
ra-al-parque
Osea www.oseamed.co
P
Pablo Tobón www.teatropablotobon.com
Parque Biblioteca España
www.discovercolombia.com/spain-library-metrocable
Per Se www.olgapiedrahita.com
Popayan Easter Procession
www.semanasantapopayan.com
Q
Queen Victoria
www.facebook.com/queenvictoriabar
S
San Alberto www.cafesanalberto.com/en
Satena www.satena.com
Sazagua www.sazagua.com
Sites www.en.siteshotel.com
Sofitel Legend Santa Clara
www.sofitel-legend.com/en
T
The Orchids
www.theorchidshotel.com/home/es
V
Vallenato Legend Festival
www.festivalvallenato.com
Vida Augusta www.vidaaugusta.com
VivaColombia www.vivacolombia.co
W
W Bogota www.wbogota.com
World Salsa Festival
www.mundialdesalsa.com
Z
Zipaquirá Salt Cathedral
www.catedraldesal.gov.co/en
Parque Explora www.parqueexplora.org

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